Prepared by

Mitu Gharami
Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)
Marker is a long thin paper on which all pattern pieces for
all sizes for a particular style of garments are drawn in such
way that maximum fabrics will be used and fabric wastage
will be minimum. It can be done both manually and
computerized method.
 Using the least amount of fabric to produce a garment
and make industry profitable every time.
 To cut huge amount of fabric in short time.
 To calculate the consumption for a particular style.
 For cutting large amount of fabric using less people.
◦ To cut the fabric with perfection according to the
measurement.
◦ To make a perfect production plan.
Fabric width must be higher than marker width (1/2’’)
Fabric length must be higher than marker length
(1’’+1’’)
When pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of
fabric, the grain line should be parallel to the line of the
warp in a woven fabric and Wales in knit fabric when
pattern pieces are laid across the layers, the line is kept
parallel to weft /course.
All the pattern pieces of a garment should be along
the same direction when laid down on an asymmetric
fabric.
Length of cutting table should be considered.
Plan for garments production also be considered.
 One should easily see the full length.( Applicable for
manual marker making)
 To know about the appropriate width/ Cutable width of
the fabric.
 The marker starts with the large pattern pieces. Then
fits the smaller pieces in the gap of the larger pieces.
Thus the fabric wastage is minimized and efficiency is
increased. (It is the common technique
 After that the patterns are shuffled in various
directions to reduce the marker length. It also helps to
increase marker efficiency.
1. The nature of the fabric and the desired result in the
finished garment.
2. The requirements of quality in cutting.
3. The requirements of production planning.
 Alignment of patterns with respect to fabric grain –
All the patterns in the marker plan should be kept such
that the grain line in the pattern should be parallel to
the fabric selvedge for better hanging and draping of
garments (Figure-1).
 Fabric symmetry and asymmetry – If the face and
back side of the fabrics have a similar appearance, then
they are called ‘two-way’ or ‘symmetrical’ fabrics and
it does not warrant any special requirement while
marker planning. The asymmetric fabric where the face
and back are dissimilar needs some attention during
marker planning.
 Examples of asymmetric fabrics are those having a nap
or pile. More complicated fabrics are ‘one way’ or
‘asymmetrical’.
 These kinds of fabrics have a surface pile or a print
design that has a recognizable object which can only be
used one way.
 Design requirements in final garment – Design
aspects of final garments also have to be considered
while marker planning to get a better visual appearance
of the finished garment. For instance, if a vertical stripe
in a garment does not exhibit a complete replica of a
repeat on the right and left panels of garment it looks
awkward.
 Since most of the garment units utilize a vertical blade for cutting
of fabric panels, the marker plan should take into consideration
the space required for movement of the knife blade especially
while cutting in curved areas. The space required between the
patterns in the marker plan depends on the cutting method used. A
counting of number of patterns in the marker should be carried out
to verify the complete set of patterns has been incorporated in the
marker plan. After cutting of fabric panels, sorting of pattern
pieces as per the size, bundling of cut fabric panels as per the
color and size and finally pattern count in each size should be
done to confirm that all the patterns are available for the
assembling process. The marker planner should give coding to all
patterns with its size during the preparation of marker planning.
 Each order is specified by a certain quantity with respect to
size and color. For example, an order for 12,000 trousers may
include 4800 blue, 4800 green and 2400 red, across sizes 30,
32, 34 and 36 in the ratio 2:4:4:2. The production planning and
control department have to ensure adequate supply of cut
components to the sewing room at regular intervals.
 Manual method
 Computerized method

Manual method is of two types:

a) Marker planning with full size pattern.

b) Marker with minimized pattern.

a) Marker planning with full size pattern:
In this method, all patterns are in full dimension according to standard
measurement.
 Hard patterns are placed on paper or on fabric and then all patterns
are marked by turning different direction to minimize the fabric
usage.
 The tables, on which the markers are placed, are arranged in such a
way so that they do no tilt.
 Vacuum system is arranged under the table for suction.
 This method is suitable for markers of shorter length. When
different sizes of patterns are taken for making a marker, in that case
Manual Marker making
b) Marker with minimized pattern:
 Full sized patterns are minimized 1/5 part by a
pantograph and the patterns are made up of hard
paper or plastic sheet.

Fig. Pantograph
 Marker is planned with small pattern pieces.
 After making, snaps are taken by camera.
 The covered area of pattern in marker is measured by
planimeter.
 Marker efficiency is measured by calculating marker
area & pattern area.
 Marker photograph and miniature markers are stored.
 Suitable for large volume.
 From more minimized marker, full size markers are made with
more marker efficiency.
 Sometimes, for pantographs’ problem, full size markers give
more efficiency.

Planimeter: An instrument for measuring the area of any

plane figure, however irregular, by passing a tracer
around the bounding line.
Computerized marker making method
 This is the best method of marker making as it generally gives
higher efficiency.
 In this method every components of the pattern are kept in the
memory of the computer and grade rule is also mentioned.
 In computerized method all information’s are stored in the pre-
fashioned data file and an operator helps the computer to make
the best choice.
 Marker width is taken according to the fabric width. Fabric
spreading should be done by taking the guideline from marker
length.
  Then the computer makes the marker by its pre-
fashioned programming technique.
The information of patterns can be stored by different
manners:
i) Digitizing system
ii) Scanning system
i) Digitizing system
 In this system patterns are placed in the digitizing
board.
 Every portion of the components are send to the
memory of the computer by clicking special mouse
around the pieces.
ii) Scanning system
 This is special type of machine like photocopier.
Here the following things are done.
 Working patterns are placed on the scanning glass
and then marker is made in a selected size.
 Grade rule is used for making other sizes.
 Suitable for large-scale production.
 Marker efficiency is higher than manual method.
 Least amount of wastage of fabric.
 If required, printout of marker is possible anytime.
 Automatic grading.
 Less time and manpower required, so production is
higher.
 High initial investment.
 Skilled operator needed.
Computerized marker making method is of two (2)
types. They are –

 Automatic Marker Making

 Interactive Method
 In this process computer itself produces marker form
different pattern pieces.
 In the automatic marker making system, the computer
makes the marker itself according to the command given to
computer.
 In this process, higher marker efficiency can be achieved
but it is a time-consuming method, because computer use
permutation – combination method to produce marker.
 The modern systems however overcome this problem of
time and now a days it is possible to get automatic marker
only in 2 minutes with a satisfactory level of marker
efficiency.
 It is a common process, here the marker planner plan markers
by interacting directly with the system through a computer
screen.
 Two horizontal lines are shown in middle of the screen which
indicates the marker width.
 A vertical line in the left indicates the start of the marker and
right side is open at first.
 All the pattern pieces are displayed in the miniature form at
the top of the screen.
 They are dragged & dropped in the marker area.
 After placing of all pattern pieces, it is possible to see the data
like marker efficiency, marker length, and marker width etc.
information just below the parallel lines.
 After completion of marker making, it is saved in the
computer memory & it is possible to take the printout of the
marker any time.
 Marker efficiency may be defined as the ratio of area
covered by the pattern in a marker to the total area of
the marker.

Marker eff% = Area covered by the pattern in a marker

× 100%
Total area of marker

Marker efficiency Fabric wastage profit

1. Marker planner: Marker efficiency depends on
experience, honesty, sincerity, trial and technological
knowledge.
2. Size of garments: The more the number of the
pattern sizes are included, the more possibility to get
more efficiency.
5. Fabric characteristics: marker efficiency is good in
case of symmetric fabric and efficiency is less for
asymmetrical fabrics.
6. Marker making method: Computerized marker is
more efficient when it is done interactively with the
planner so marker efficiency varies from method to
method.
3. Marker length: Higher the marker length, higher the
efficiency.
4. Pattern Engineering : Marker efficiency can be
increased by changing the pattern according to the rule.
Such as a big component can be divided into two parts.
This will help to save the fabric wastages.
7. Marker width: the more the fabric width higher the
marker efficiency.
8. Style of garments: There are some garments which have
only large patterns such as overcoat.
1. Inside the marker
2. Outside the marker

1. Inside the marker : If the marker is not the efficient-

 The position of combination of individual parts/patterns
is not ok.
 Distance between pattern to pattern is not suitable.
2. Outside the marker: Fabric wastage outside the marker
is described bellow-

A. End of ply losses:

Some allowance is kept in the ends of every ply of fabric
spreading because of extensibility of fabric & for the
limitation of fabric spreading machine. Amount of this
allowance is usually 1st in each end of the fabric ply. This
wastage varies with fabric type. This wastage may be
reduced for larger marker length and increased for
smaller marker length.
B. Selvedge losses:
Each fabric contains two selvedges along with the width.
Mostly selvedge part is omitted. The amount of selvedge loss
is considered 2%-3%(approximately) along width. Selvedge
loss depend on the quality of selvedge, width flatness and
alignment of selvedges. The wider the fabric, the less is
fabric wastage percentage.

C. End of fabric rolls:

Fabric lay is made on the basis of marker length. Most of the
time it is found that fabric length is either longer or shorter
than the multiple of lay length. So every often excess fabric
end is cut & it is impossible to avoid. But if the length of
the fabric roll is very long then this loss is negligible.
D. Purchase loss:
Generally, fabric is purchased according to length. It is
generally mentioned on the fabric roll by the manufacturer .
Sometimes the length of fabric in the roll is less than
mentioned length. Then the loss faced by buyer is known as
purchase loss.

E. Fabric defects:
If there is any kind of big fault in the fabric, then the portion
is not usable. It can be group shade or ruining shade. If
group shade is present in the fabric then it is rejected.
But if ruining shade is present , then the fabric can be used
by the marker only with the better side of the fabric.