FENDI BOUTIQUES 888 291 0163 FEN D I .

CO M
 THE ICONS ISSUE
THERE TRULY IS NO TIME LIKE THE PRESENT, but one of
the great challenges of life in 2023 seems to be finding ways to
actually be present—wholly and fully immersed in the moment.
And this is quite a moment we’re in right now. We’re no longer
living in the past; that much is evident. But it also often feels as
if we haven’t quite reached the future. Crucial new doors are
being opened, but others always seem to be closing. One day can
appear to be the dawn of a new era, then the next seems like an
unsettling return to old, antiquated ways. The world feels smaller
but also more divided. We’re dreaming and reckoning. Things
begin and end. We’re forced to start over—again. Some people get
tired. Some get lost. Others try to wait it out or get it over with.
Some, though, see an opportunity in all the uncertainty. They see
potential and possibility. They see a path forward. The individ-
uals we spotlight in our annual Icons issues are members of that
last group. They are people who are helping to shift narratives,
open doors, and reshape the culture. What makes them icons is
a question of influence and impact but also one of identity—of
who we are and what we aspire to, of how we see and understand
ourselves. They aren’t just of the moment—they are seizing it and
making it their own. HB

KENDALL
JENNER
Photograph by MARIO SORRENTI
Styling by BEAT BOLLIGER

Jacket, pants, and belt, DIOR. Necklace, PLUIE DE CARTIER. Ring, PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER.

B A Z A A R
 ICONS
Photographs by MARIO SORRENTI
Styling by BEAT BOLLIGER and EDWARD BOWLEG III

FEATURING

DOJA CAT
NIA DACOSTA
GRETA LEE
ZAYA WADE
JUSTIN JONES
JUSTIN J. PEARSON
KENDALL JENNER
PARRIS GOEBEL
JAMES WHITESIDE
PAUL MESCAL
LEILA MOTTLEY
GOLSHIFTEH FARAHANI
TEYANA TAYLOR
ANGEL REESE
On Kendall Jenner: Knit, briefs, tights, and shoes, MIU MIU. Necklace and watch, PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER.
On Paul Mescal: Trench coat and T-shirt, GUCCI. Earring and necklace, CARTIER JUSTE UN CLOU. On Doja Cat: Fur jacket, dress,
and briefs, DOLCE & GABBANA. Earrings, PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER. Necklace, CARTIER BEAUTÉS DU MONDE.

B A Z A A R
D I O R . C O M - 8 0 0 .9 2 9. D I O R ( 3 4 67 )
D I O R . C O M - 8 0 0 .9 2 9. D I O R ( 3 4 67 )
 E D I T O R’ S L E T T E R
On OUTLIERS and ICONS

O
ne of the things I’ve come to really value about putting

JUNYA NAKASHIMA; MAKEUP: CHIHO OMAE. MAXIMILIAN DAVIS: JEANO EDWARDS; GROOMING: CHIARA GUIZZETTI. NASR: JODY ROGAC. FOR MORE SHOPPING INFORMATION, GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS.
together our annual Icons issue is that it gives us an oppor-

FROM TOP, PAUL MESCAL: MARIO SORRENTI; FASHION EDITOR: BEAT BOLLIGER; GROOMING: JOSH KNIGHT. JACQUELINE WOODSON: MAX FARAGO; FASHON EDITOR: ALEXANDRA DELIFER; HAIR:
tunity to think about what inspires us in the moment.
What struck me most about the subjects in this year’s portfolio,
photographed by Mario Sorrenti, is how many of them are outliers.
They are people who have each found a way to break into the
mainstream current of their respective fields, but they have each
also altered or redirected that current in a way that has transformed
it for all those who come after them.
Our cover subjects are all prime examples. A decade into
a career that’s seen her rise to the apex of the industry, Kendall
Jenner has redefined what it means to be a supermodel and worked
hard to find ways to carve out space for herself away from the
Kardashian industrial complex and fashion. Doja Cat has used
her platform as a pop star to be provocative and do things that
Above, on Paul Mescal: Gucci
get attention, like cover herself in blood. But she has also used
T-shirt. Cartier Juste un Clou her body and physicality to get us to confront ideas about beauty
earrings and necklace. Left,
on Jacqueline Woodson:
and who or what is considered beautiful. And Paul Mescal’s rise
Valentino sweater. Rolex Oyster to fame has stoked the kind of internet obsession that some people
Perpetual 36 watch. Below,
on Maximilian Davis: Clothing
go to great lengths to achieve. But he has tried to sidestep that
and earrings, his own. hype as he finds himself as an actor and outside of that bubble.
It’s an idea that plays out throughout our Icons portfolio: James
Whiteside’s commitment to bringing queer stories to the world
of dance; the way Tennessee state representatives Justin Jones
and Justin J. Pearson have transformed the conversation around
not only gun violence but also who can be a politician and what
one can look like; Greta Lee’s decision, after acting for two decades,
to stop trying to make herself “palatable” to filmmakers, which
led to a breakthrough role in the film Past Lives at the age of 40.
This entire issue is a celebration of people who are not just
doing the work but also changing a culture and clearing a path
for future generations. Maximilian Davis, the 28-year-old creative
director of Ferragamo, is certainly doing that by tapping into
his own heritage and creative community to help reinvigorate
the 96-year-old Italian house. So are Jacqueline Woodson, Ta-Nehisi
Coates, Kyle Lukoff, and the other authors in our package on
writers whose books have been banned, as they’ve been thrust to
the center of a culture war for telling stories that need to be told.
“This erasure of different voices feels as if it is pushing us ever
closer to a more desolate tomorrow—one where even more kids
feel unseen,” writes Jesmyn Ward in one of the essays that accom-
panies the package. “As the poet Audre Lorde once said of women,
books are powerful and dangerous,” offers Edwidge Danticat in
another. “They can also be platforms for liberation.”
Bethann Hardison has spent her entire adult life doing it too,
fighting for equity and diversity in fashion. I’ve known Bethann
for almost two decades, and she has always remained focused on
that mission, never taking her foot off the pedal. I mention that
because so often when we think we’ve made progress in one area,
we move on to the next challenge. But as all of the people in our
Icons issue can attest, progress is rarely linear and never inevitable.
Each step forward is precious. It’s our hope that as you look ahead
to the future and the new fashion season, this issue will inspire
you to take some bold ones of your own.

58 09/23 B A Z A A R
swarovski.com
C I N DY C R AW FO R D MCM WORLDWIDE LOS ANGELES, CA

C I N D Y C R A W F O R D A N D S I G N AT U R E V I S E T O S M O N O G R A M C L A S S I C S

MCMWORLDWIDE.COM
 P L A Y L I S T
INTRODUCING THIS ISSUE’S MUSIC DIRECTOR

SAMPHA

SOLANGE, A SEAT AT THE TABLE: COURTESY COLUMBIA RECORDS/SONY MUSIC ENTERTAINMENT; JOYCE MORENO, NATUREZA: COURTESY FAR OUT RECORDINGS; WOOKIE, WOOKIE: COURTESY MANCHU
RECORDINGS; THE PRODIGY, EXPERIENCE: COURTESY XL RECORDINGS; ROTARY CONNECTION, BLACK GOLD: THE VERY BEST OF ROTARY CONNECTION: GEFFEN RECORDS/UNIVERSAL MUSIC GROUP
FEATURED 6. “GROOVE IS IN THE

TRACKS HEART”
Deee-Lite

7. “ROCK THE BOAT”

Aaliyah

8. “WINDOWLICKER”
Aphex Twin
1.
“CRANES IN THE SKY” 9. “CIRCLES”
Solange Adam F

10. “SOMEDAY WE’LL

ALL BE FREE”
Donny Hathaway

11. “TEARDROP”
Massive Attack
2.
12. “LOVE IS
“FEMININA”
EVERYWHERE”
Joyce Moreno
Pharoah Sanders

13. “BY YOUR SIDE”

Sade (the Neptunes
remix)

14. “GABRIEL”
Roy Davis Jr. feat.
3.
Peven Everett
“BATTLE”
Wookie feat. Lain 15. “ISN’T SHE LOVELY”
Stevie Wonder

16. “BLINDED BY THE

LIGHTS”
The Streets

17. “NEW MAGIC

4. WAND”
Tyler, the Creator
“OUT OF SPACE”
The Prodigy
18. “KING KUNTA”
Kendrick Lamar

Listen to Sampha’s full

playlist exclusively on
Apple Music.

5.
“I AM THE BLACK GOLD OF
THE SUN”
Rotary Connection

“When something is ICONIC, it’s RECOGNIZABLE to people who don’t have detailed knowledge of it,”
says SAMPHA. “It TRANSCENDS a generational BOUNDARY or the BORDERS of a discipline.”
This fall, the British singer, songwriter, and producer, known for helping other people’s visions,” he says. “Sometimes it feels a bit
his wildly original cross-pollination of genres, will release Lahai, freer.” Having recently wrapped residencies in London and New
his first solo project since 2017’s Process, featuring a mix of York, which served as opportunities for live experimentation,
West African folk, jungle, classical, and soul music. “During Covid, Sampha curated a playlist for this issue around the theme of
I interrogated spirituality, transcendence, and immanence and icons, choosing songs he says “meant a lot to me in particular
what they mean to me,” he says, “so this album connects the eras of my life.” Along with Stevie Wonder’s “Isn’t She Lovely”
dots between my past, future, and present.” Since dropping his and Joyce Moreno’s “Feminina,” he included Solange’s soulful
debut EP, Sundanza, in 2010, Sampha has been tapped by the “Cranes in the Sky.” “I got to do multiple sessions with her—in
likes of Sbtrkt, Kendrick Lamar, and Drake to work his singular Ghana, New Orleans, and New York,” he says of Solange. “She’s
magic on their tracks. “I enjoy being of service when I can and a visionary.” ARIANA MARSH

76 PHOTOGRAPH BY TRINITY ELLIS B A Z A A R

www.akris.com
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FORWARD
THIS FALL
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looks at Bloomingdales.com.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JENNIFER LIVINGSTON. STYLIST: REBECCA LUX. HAIR & MAKEUP: MIGUEL LLEDO.
MANICURIST: ERI HANDA. MODEL: KATY O’KANE/ONE MANAGEMENT.

THE FREE SPIRIT

Birkenstock Gizeh Big
Buckle in Metallic Silver,
$160, available at
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Jacket, Jonathan Simkhai.
Sweater, AG Jeans. Skirt,
Proenza Schouler White
Label. Bag, Marc Jacobs.
Ring, stylist’s own.
BANANAREPUBLIC.COM
 C O N T E N T S
58. EDITOR’S LETTER COVERS
76. PLAYLIST: SAMPHA 166.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, DOJA CAT: MARIO SORRENTI; FASHION EDITOR: EDWARD BOWLEG III; HAIR: J STAY READY; MAKEUP: FRANK B. PAUL MESCAL: MARIO SORRENTI; FASHION EDITOR: BEAT BOLLIGER;
98. WHY DON’T YOU…? DOJA CAT

GROOMING: JOSH KNIGHT. FROM “ICONS OF INNOVATION”: SERGIY BARCHUK. KENDALL JENNER: MARIO SORRENTI; FASHION EDITOR: BEAT BOLLIGER; HAIR: TOMO JIDAI; MAKEUP: FRANK B.
Interview by Angie Martinez
Photograph by Mario Sorrenti
THE BAZAAR Styling by Edward Bowleg III
101. THE SANDAL
Louis Vuitton Platforms 172.
MARKET MEMO KENDALL JENNER
102. Classic Peacoats Story by Kaitlyn Greenidge
106. Red Trousers Photograph by Mario Sorrenti
108. Dark Florals Styling by Beat Bolliger
111. THE SHOES
Prada Flats 176.
112. FOUR OF A KIND PAUL MESCAL
Soft Wool Coats Story by Andrea Cuttler
114. THE SCOPE 166. Photograph by Mario Sorrenti
Chanel Camellia DOJA CAT Styling by Beat Bolliger
116. IN THE FASHION CLOSET
Brown Bags
118. THE BAG
Ralph Lauren Top-Handle
120. THE WORK WARDROBE
Relaxed Layers, Classic Pieces,
and Modern Tailoring
124. THE VAULT
Worldly Treasures

VOICES
132. IN CONVERSATION:
AYO EDEBIRI, MELANIE LYNSKEY
& SHARON HORGAN
Text by Ariana Marsh
136. AS TOLD TO:
BETHANN HARDISON
172. 176.
KENDALL JENNER PAUL MESCAL
NEWS & CULTURE
From top and on the covers, on Doja Cat:
140. BACK TO BLACK Dolce & Gabbana jacket, dress, $3,345, and briefs,
Text by Alison S. Cohn $335; 877-70-DGUSA. Cartier Beautés du Monde
necklace and Panthère de Cartier earrings;
144. FASHION & CULTURE NEWS 800-CARTIER. To get Doja Cat’s look, try Diorshow
146. TRAVEL: Iconic Overcurl Mascara ($32), Diorshow 5
Couleurs eyeshadow palette in Rose du Soir ($65),
ISLANDS IN THE SUN and Dior Addict Lip Glow Oil in Raspberry ($40).
Text by Gisela Williams All, Dior. On Kendall Jenner: Miu Miu knit, $1,720,
briefs, $5,600, tights, $320, and shoes, $1,270;
miumiu.com. Cartier Panthère de Cartier
necklace and Panthère de Cartier watch;

BEAUTY 800-CARTIER. To get Jenner’s look, try True

Match Hyaluronic Tinted Serum ($20), Infallible
149. ICONS OF INNOVATION Brows 24H Volumizing Mascara ($14), and
Colour Riche Matte Lipstick in Matte-Caron ($10).
Text by Katie Intner and Jamie Wilson All, L’Oréal Paris. On Paul Mescal: Gucci trench
Photograph by Sergiy Barchuk coat, $4,100, and T-shirt, $590; gucci.com.
Cartier Juste un Clou earrings, $3,100,
156. A SHOT FOR GLOWING SKIN and Cartier Juste un Clou necklace, $9,100;
Text by Jolene Edgar 800-CARTIER. To get Mescal’s look, try Boy de
Chanel Concealer ($45), Boy de Chanel Eyebrow
158. EDITORS’ FAVORITES Pencil ($42), and Boy de Chanel Lip Balm ($38).
Text by Tiffany Dodson All, Chanel. At left: Future beauty icons.

88 B A Z A A R
 C O N T E N T S
FASHION FEATURES

FASHION EDITOR: BEAT BOLLIGER; HAIR: LUKE HERSHESON FOR HERSHESONS; BRAIDING: MURIEL COLE; MAKEUP: LISA BUTLER; MANICURE: SYLVIE MACMILLAN. FROM “HOME COUNTY”: BIBI CORNEJO BORTHWICK;
GOLSHIFTEH FARAHANI: MARIO SORRENTI; FASHION EDITOR: BEAT BOLLIGER; HAIR: LUKE HERSHESON FOR HERSHESONS; MAKEUP: LISA BUTLER; MANICURE: SYLVIE MACMILLAN. NIA DACOSTA: MARIO SORRENTI;

FASHION EDITOR: KATIE SHILLINGFORD; MODEL: MIRIAM SÁNCHEZ; HAIR: SOICHI INAGAKI; MAKEUP: NIAMH QUINN. FROM “CHARACTER STUDY”: CHRIS RHODES; ACCESSORIES DIRECTOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, TEYANA TAYLOR: MARIO SORRENTI; FASHION EDITORS: BEAT BOLLIGER AND EDWARD BOWLEG III; HAIR: TOMO JIDAI FOR ORIBE; MAKEUP: FRANK B FOR LOVESEEN; MANICURE: HONEY.

FROM “FORMAL QUALITIES”: GABRIEL MOSES; FASHION EDITOR: EDWARD BOWLEG III; MODELS: ALAY DENG AND ABÉNY NHIAL; HAIR: YANN TURCHI; MAKEUP: AURORE GIBRIEN; MANICURES: HANAÉ GOUMRI.
182. 165.

ANGEL REESE: MARIO SORRENTI; FASHION EDITORS: BEAT BOLLIGER AND EDWARD BOWLEG III; HAIR: TOMO JIDAI; MAKEUP: FRANK B. FOR MORE SHOPPING INFORMATION, GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS.
STEPPING OUT ICONS
Photographs by Amy Troost Photographs by Mario Sorrenti
Styling by Caroline Newell Styling by Beat Bolliger
194. and Edward Bowleg III
FORMAL QUALITIES 204.
Photographs by Gabriel Moses THE REBIRTH OF COOL
Styling by Edward Bowleg III Story by Tara Gonzalez
210. Photograph by Jeano Edwards
CHARACTER STUDY 234.
Photographs by Chris Rhodes THE TRUTH TELLERS
220. Essays by Jesmyn Ward
HOME COUNTY and Edwidge Danticat
Photographs by Bibi Cornejo Borthwick Photographs by Max Farago
Styling by Katie Shillingford Styling by Alexandra Delifer

248. ARCHIVE
Jane Birkin, August 2004

Above, from “Formal Qualities,” on left:

Dolce & Gabbana coat, $4,245; 877-70-DGUSA.
Kenneth Jay Lane vintage earrings, $50,
and collar necklace, $485; kennethjaylane.com. From “Icons,” clockwise from top, on
Tanner Krolle bag, $2,295; tannerkrolle.com. Teyana Taylor: Rick Owens top, $5,210, briefs,
Agnelle gloves; agnelle.com. Bally boots, $1,900; $950, and platform boots, $4,210; rickowens
bally.com. On right: Moschino jacket, $1,345, .eu. Cartier Juste un Clou earrings, $8,200,
and skirt, $890; saks.com. Only Hearts camisole, and Panthère de Cartier ring; 800-CARTIER.
$49; onlyhearts.com. Bulgari Serpenti High Jewelry On Golshifteh Farahani: Alaïa hooded
earrings; 800-BULGARI. Alaïa gloves, $890; dress, $3,320; maison-alaia.com. Cartier
maison-alaia.fr. Bally heels, $920; similar styles Clash de Cartier earrings; 800-CARTIER.
available at bally.com. From “Character Study”: On Nia DaCosta: Fear of God blazer, $1,995;
Church’s x Miu Miu shoe, $1,320; miumiu.com. nordstrom.com. Proenza Schouler trousers,
Near right, from “Home County”: Burberry shirt, $1,290; 212-420-7300. On Angel Reese: Prada
$1,950, kilt, $1,890, hooded scarf, $960, and cropped knit, $1,150; bergdorfgoodman.com.
tights, $740; us.burberry.com. Clash de Cartier earrings; 800-CARTIER.

B A Z A A R
 Editor in Chief HEARST MAGAZINES ADVERTISING
SAMIRA NASR
INDUSTRY LEADERSHIP
Creative Director Food, Pharma, Liquor, CPG & Pet PATRICIA HAEGELE
LAURA GENNINGER Fashion & Luxury HALEY BACHMANN
Beauty, Wellness & Mass Retail ELIZABETH WEBBE LUNNY
Executive Editor Home & Design JENNIFER LEVENE BRUNO
LEAH CHERNIKOFF
CATEGORY LEADERS
Executive Managing Editor KAREN DEUTSCH, DAN FUCHS, CHRISTINE L. HALL, DAVID HAMILTON,
CARYN PRIME RW HORTON, BRIDGET MCGUIRE, JEANNE NOONAN, SARA RAD, JULIE SPITALNICK,
BILL UPTON, JOHN WATTIKER, TARA WEEDFALD
Executive Fashion Director
NICOLE FRITTON HARPER’S BAZAAR
Vice President of Marketing BRENT WILLIAMS ALLEN
Senior Digital Director Brand & Content Strategy LISA PIANA
NIKKI OGUNNAIKE
HEARST MAGAZINES
Entertainment Director Chief Marketing Officer TODD HASKELL
ANDREA CUTTLER Hearst Media Solutions TOM KIRWAN
Hearst Data Solutions MIKE NUZZO
Managing Editor Chief Media Officer JEFFREY W. HAMILL
CARL KELSCH Advertising Revenue Operations RACHAEL SAVAGE
Agency Relations LESLIE PICARD

FASHION FINANCE & OPERATIONS

Accessories Director MIGUEL ENAMORADO Vice President/General Manager ANNE WELCH
Deputy Fashion News Editor ALISON S. COHN Executive Director, Advertising Business Operations JEANINE TRIOLO
Senior Fashion & Accessories Editor JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN Advertising Services Director MIKE NIES
Senior Digital Fashion Editor TARA GONZALEZ Senior Advertising Services Manager MICHELLE LUIS
Fashion & Retail Credits Editor ALICIA BANILIVY
Fashion Commerce Editor HALIE LESAVAGE PUBLIC RELATIONS
Assistant Fashion Editor NICOLE TRIPODIS Senior PR Manager JAMIE PANAS ANTONIOU
Assistant Accessories Editor JENNIFER JENKINS Publicist KATHRYN COUGHLIN
Contributing Fashion Assistants BRINLEY KNOPF, MICHELLE LUJAN,
MAYRA MORALES, ADESUWA ODIASE, SHOPBAZAAR.COM
EVELYN TRUAX, MADELEINE WILLIAMS Head of E-Commerce Operations and Strategy CATHAY ZHAO
Executive Director, E-Commerce Brand Partnerships NOËLLE TOTA
BEAUTY Senior Director, Digital Commerce MARIKO ICHIKAWA
Beauty Director JENNA ROSENSTEIN Merchandising Manager, Commerce NATALIE MARTIN
Beauty Editor JAMIE WILSON Editorial Director at Large JADE FRAMPTON
Associate Beauty Editors TIFFANY DODSON (Commerce), KATIE INTNER Senior Content & Social Media Manager MINNA SHIM
Senior Fashion Editor & Brand Manager JESSICA RAWLS
NEWS & FEATURES E-Commerce Operations Manager XIOMARA FLORIAN
Features Director KAITLYN GREENIDGE Assistant Managing Editor LYNDSEY NOEL
Editor at Large STEPHEN MOOALLEM Assistant Merchandising Editor REMY SCHIFFMAN
Digital Deputy Editor IZZY GRINSPAN Manager, Brand Partnerships KATHLEEN O’KEEFE
Special Projects Editor NOJAN AMINOSHAREI Digital Designer SARAH OLIVIERI
Senior Features Editor ARIANA MARSH E-Commerce Coordinator REBECCA THERLONGE
Digital Senior News Editor ROSA SANCHEZ Editorial Coordinator, Brand Partnerships CAROLINE LASSMAN
Digital Culture Editor BIANCA BETANCOURT Editorial Content Assistant MEGHAN SHOUSE
Digital Associate Editor CHELSEY SANCHEZ Assistant, Brand Partnerships BELLA WARTON
Executive Assistant to the Editor in Chief ALEXANDRA DELIFER
Contributing Social Media Editor DAISE BEDOLLA PUBLISHED BY HEARST
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0 9 / 2 3
 WHY DON’T YOU. . . ?
The Month in CULTURE and STYLE
1 LISTEN 5 MEET

THE DREAM PODCAST: PUSHKIN INDUSTRIES; MARÍA MAGDALENA CAMPOS-PONS, THE CALLING, 2003, DIPTYCH, POLAROID PRINTS, 24 X 44 IN (61 X 111.8 CM): COLLECTION OF JONATHAN AND BARBARA LEE,
ROMY’S MID AIR: YOUNG RECORDINGS; POOR THINGS: YORGOS LANTHIMOS/SEARCHLIGHT PICTURES; SACAI RUNWAY: MARIA VALENTINO/MCV PHOTO; ALL FALL 2023 RUNWAY: COURTESY THE DESIGNERS;
TO MID AIR AN ARTIST’S MANY FACES
Examining relationships, identity, and sexuality, “María Magdalena Campos-Pons: Behold,”
the debut solo album from the xx’s Romy opening September 15 at the Brooklyn

IMAGE COURTESY THE NEWFIELDS ART MUSEUM; ARCHIVE BY SOFIA COPPOLA: MACK; MARTHA GRAHAM DANCERS XIN YING AND LLOYD KNIGHT: HIBBARD NASH PHOTOGRAPHY
Madley Croft is an ode to the queer clubs Museum, surveys nearly four decades
where she found community and includes 11 of the multimedia artist’s practice,
ethereal dance-pop tracks, like the Fred Again– comprising more than 40 works spanning
produced single “Loveher,” about the beauty photography, immersive installation,
and intimacy of falling in love. painting, and performance. Drawing from
her Afro-Cuban family history, Campos-
2 SEE Pons explores themes of memory,
POOR THINGS enslavement, migration, and diaspora,
Out September 8, director often photographing herself dressed to
Yorgos Lanthimos’s latest film evoke Yoruba deities and incorporating
follows Bella Baxter (Emma Santeria symbolism into her work.
Stone), a young woman who
is brought back from the
dead by scientist Dr. Godwin
Baxter (Willem Dafoe). Itching
to see the world and liberated
from the prejudices of her
19th-century era, Bella runs
off with a slick lawyer, Duncan
Wedderburn (Mark Ruffalo), for
an adventure of self-discovery.

6 GO
BEHIND THE SCENES
Archive, the first book by
visionary director Sofia
Coppola, gives an inside
look at her creative
process, featuring photos,
reference collages, and
annotated scripts from all
eight of her films, including
The Virgin Suicides and
On the Rocks.

7 EXPERIENCE
A MODERN-DANCE MARATHON
3 REFINE On September 30, Martha Graham
YOUR FALL OUTERWEAR Dance Company kicks off
Add definition to an overcoat or Graham100, a three-season-long
trench by cinching it at the waist celebration of the company’s
with a coordinating belt à la Sacai, upcoming 2026 centennial. With
Simkhai, and Louis Vuitton. stops in both the U.S. and Europe,
the tour will present Graham
4 FOLLOW masterworks like 1944’s Appalachian
THE DREAM Spring, set to Aaron Copland’s
Jane Marie and Dann Gallucci’s hit podcast Shaker-melody-infused orchestral
returns for a third season, this time turning to life suite, and her final 1990 ballet,
coaches and gurus to understand what mindsets Maple Leaf Rag (left), named for the
and techniques lead to true self-improvement. ragtime composition by Scott Joplin.

98 B A Z A A R
 T H E B A Z A A R
WHAT TO BUY AND HOW TO WEAR IT
EDITED BY JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN
ACCESSORIES DIRECTOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO. STYLING: JILL TELESNICKI. FOR MORE SHOPPING INFORMATION, GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS.

New HEIGHTS
Step it up in LOUIS VUITTON’S PLATFORM TRINITY SANDAL, which
offers an ADVENTUROUS LIFT for your fall wardrobe, with a HEEL STRAP
inspired by the HANDLES on the house’s SIGNATURE TRAVEL TRUNKS
Louis Vuitton Trinity sandals; louisvuitton.com.

0 9 / 2 3 PHOTOGRAPH BY RICHARD MAJCHRZAK 101

 T H E B A Z A A R
MARKET MEMO: Classic Peacoats

Ship SHAPE

FASHION EDITOR: JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN. MODEL: IMAAN HAMMAM, BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2022 ISSUE; RUNWAY: COURTESY THE DESIGNERS;
STILL LIFE: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D. FOR MORE SHOPPING INFORMATION, GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS.
CHLOÉ

ALTUZARRA
WHY DON’T YOU...?
Add a personal touch with
a WHIMSICAL BROOCH.

From top: Chloé jacket,

$3,690; chloe.com. Denimist
peacoat, $695; denimist.com.
Ralph Lauren Collection
peacoat, $2,990; ralphlauren
.com. Loro Piana coat,
$7,325; loropiana.com.

Clockwise from top: Louis Vuitton LV

Symphony brooch; 866-VUITTON. Tiffany
& Co. Elsa Peretti Amapola brooch,
$5,100; tiffany.com. Verdura Target
brooch; verdura.com. Vintage Cartier TORY BURCH
Paris safety pin; mahnazcollection.com.
Gabriela Hearst Sylvian brooch,
$750; gabrielahearst.com.

102 PORTRAIT BY DAN JACKSON B A Z A A R

TOMFORD.COM
 T H E B A Z A A R
MARKET MEMO: Red Trousers

Crimson TIDE

FASHION EDITOR: JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN. MODEL: QUINN MORA, BAZAAR FEBRUARY 2021 ISSUE; A.W.A.K.E. MODE RUNWAY: STUDIO PREMICES;
ALL RUNWAY: COURTESY THE DESIGNERS; STILL LIFE: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D; STYLING: MIAKO KATOH. = BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM
FERRAGAMO

WHY DON’T YOU...?

BREAK UP an
ALL-RED look
with a BLACK
LEATHER BELT.
MARNI

From top: Mango suit pants,

$70; shop.mango.com.
Free People trousers, $98;
freepeople.com. Michael
Kors Collection trousers,
$890; shopBAZAAR.com . From left: Tory Burch belt, $248; toryburch.com. Artemas Quibble belt, $695; A.W.A.K.E. MODE
Attersee trousers, $850; artemas-quibble.com. The Row belt, $595; therow.com. Toteme belt, $360;
shopattersee.com. Interior shopBAZAAR.com . Gucci belt, $690; gucci.com. Saint Laurent by Anthony
trousers, $1,130; interior.nyc. Vaccarello belt, $720; 212-980-2970. Hermès belt, $1,050; hermes.com.

106 PORTRAIT BY AMY TROOST B A Z A A R

 T H E B A Z A A R
MARKET MEMO: Dark Florals

MOODY Blooms

= BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM
FASHION EDITOR: JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN. MODEL: GRETA HOFER; RUNWAY: COURTESY THE DESIGNERS; STILL LIFE: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D.
ETRO

WHY DON’T YOU...?

OFFSET the
PRINT with a
MONOCHROMATIC
BOX BAG. CAROLINA HERRERA

From top: Adam Lippes shirt,

$1,190; shopBAZAAR.com .
Isabel Marant Étoile blouse,
$295; bergdorfgoodman Clockwise from top left: Giorgio Armani La Prima handbag, $1,795; CHANEL
.com. Marciano blouse, $160; armani.com. Cartier Double C de Cartier mini shoulder bag, $2,700;
marciano.com. Duro Olowu 800-CARTIER. Gucci Horsebit 1955 bag, $3,250; gucci.com. Celine
shirt, $1,180; ikram.com. by Hedi Slimane Classique Triomphe bag, $4,150; celine.com.

108 PORTRAIT BY AMY TROOST B A Z A A R

 T H E B A Z A A R
THE SHOES

Budding GENIUS
ACCESSORIES DIRECTOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO. SET DESIGN: SONIA RENTSCH. FOR MORE SHOPPING INFORMATION, GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS.

Adorned with
a spray of TINY
HANDMADE
FLOWERS,
PRADA’s latest
spin on the
SPAZZOLATO
LEATHER FLAT
puts a fresh POINT
on everything
from SLIM
TROUSERS to
a FULL SKIRT

Prada shoes; prada.com.

0 9 / 2 3 PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMIE CHUNG 111

 T H E B A Z A A R
4 OF A KIND: Soft Wool Coats

It’s a WRAP

FASHION EDITOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO. MODEL: KATYA VLADYKINA; MAKEUP: KUMA FOR SURRATT BEAUTY; MANICURE: NORI YAMANAKA
FOR DIOR. FOR MORE SHOPPING INFORMATION, GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS. = BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM
Add POLISH to the season’s generously cut, luxuriously minimalist STATEMENT
COATS with TONAL LEATHER GLOVES and a STRUCTURED BLACK BAG

Top left: The Row coat, $9,990, gloves, $1,690, and envelope bag, Giorgio Armani La Prima handbag, $1,295; armani.com. Sermoneta
$1,290; therow.com. Top right: Max Mara coat, $6,890, and gloves, Gloves gloves, $350; sermonetagloves.com. Bottom left: Ferragamo
$325; shopBAZAAR.com . Lutz Morris pouch clutch; lutzmorris.com. coat, $5,000, and clutch, $2,900; ferragamo.com. Sermoneta
Bottom right: Herno coat, $1,675; shopBAZAAR.com . Gloves gloves, $350; sermonetagloves.com.

112 PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER SISKOS B A Z A A R

 T H E B A Z A A R
THE SCOPE: Chanel Camellia

LIPNITZKI/ROGER-VIOLLET; CHANEL WITH MODEL: © SHAHROKH HATAMI; BOTH PORTRAITS AND RUNWAY: COURTESY CHANEL
ACCESSORIES DIRECTOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO. SET DESIGN: ADRIAN CRABBS; GABRIELLE CHANEL PORTRAIT: © BORIS
Above, from top: Gabrielle
“Coco” Chanel altering
a dress, circa 1962; a look
from Chanel’s Fall 2023
runway show. Far left:
Chanel in 1937.

Chanel evening bag,

$5,400, and boots,
$2,275; 800-550-0005.

Perennial STYLE
A CENTENNIAL celebration of COCO CHANEL’s favorite FLOWER
A cluster of colossal white camellias sprouted from the center of adding a whimsical touch to a lapel in the form of a handcrafted pin.
Chanel’s Fall 2023 runway this past March at Paris’s Grand Palais To mark the 100th anniversary of the camellia’s introduction, Chanel’s
Éphémère. Considered a symbol of friendship, elegance, and harmony, current artistic director, Virginie Viard, transformed her fall collection
the winter flower has also been a hallmark of the house of Chanel for into a veritable hothouse, with camellias blossoming all over tweed
a century, ever since founder Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel first pinned a jackets, delicately embroidered onto pockets, woven into intarsia
white fabric camellia on a dress in 1923. The bloom has played a role patterns, and fastened to necklaces, hair clips, chain-strap bags, and
in almost every Chanel collection since then and can often be spotted an assortment of pumps and boots. ARIANA MARSH

114 PHOTOGRAPH BY SERGIY BARCHUK B A Z A A R

 T H E B A Z A A R
IN THE FASHION CLOSET: Brown Bags

Arm CANDY

= BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM
ETRO BAG, $3,290; ETRO.COM. FERRAGAMO BAG, $4,500; FERRAGAMO.COM. CHANEL BAG, $8,800; 800-550-0005.

Fall’s SWEETEST
companion? A LEATHER
BAG in a rich shade
of CHOCOLATE.

FASHION EDITOR: JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN.

TELFAR CIRCLE BAG, $567; SHOP.TELFAR.NET.

FENDI BAG, $4,900; FENDI.COM.

CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE BAG,

$5,200; CELINE.COM.

BOTTEGA VENETA BAG, $925;

SHOPBAZAAR.COM .

IL BISONTE BAG, $650; ILBISONTE.COM. THE ROW BAG, $4,290; THEROW.COM.

116 PHOTOGRAPHS BY SHARON RADISCH B A Z A A R

 T H E B A Z A A R
THE BAG

Café SOCIETY

FASHION EDITOR: JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN. PRODUCTION: MINI TITLE INC.; PROP STYLING: ANDREA BONIN
RALPH LAUREN’s new RL 888
HANDBAG COLLECTION is a love
letter to the CLASSICAL LINES
and GEOMETRIC MOTIFS of
NEW YORK CITY ARCHITECTURE,
featuring two CROSSBODIES and
this sleek, versatile TOP-HANDLE
Ralph Lauren Collection RL 888 top-handle bag, $2,500; ralphlauren.com.

118 PHOTOGRAPH BY BOBBY DOHERTY B A Z A A R

 Cuvée Rosé. Chosen by the best.

Le Byblos
Saint-Tropez

MAISON FAMILIALE INDÉPENDANTE

P L E A S E E N J O Y C H A M P A G N E R E S P O N S I B LY
 T H E B A Z A A R
THE WORK WARDROBE

GO Time

FASHION EDITOR: JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN. MODEL IMAGE, TOP: SHANIQWA JARVIS; MODEL: KYLA RAMSEY/MUSE MANAGEMENT; RUNWAY: COURTESY MIU MIU;
EARRINGS, KEYCHAIN, ZIP HOODIE, TOTEME TOTE, AND IL BISONTE CASE: COURTESY THE BRANDS; ALL OTHER STILL LIFE: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D
FEET FIRST
The ultimate on-the-move
footwear? Sporty sneakers
and avant heels.

RELAXED LAYERS and ROOMY

BAGS are key to the HYBRID LIFE

HIGH POINTS
Elevate travel-friendly base
layers with a structured coat.
At right: Miu Miu

Clockwise from top left: Guess Originals coat, $158; guessoriginals.com. Tory Burch pumps, $428; toryburch.com. Onitsuka Tiger shoes, $340;
onitsukatiger.com. Versace keychain; versace.com. Wardrobe.NYC leggings, $400; shopBAZAAR.com . L’Amours New York mini wallet, $45;
lamoursnewyork.com. Apple Watch Series 8, from $749; apple.com. Bottega Veneta bags; bottegaveneta.com. Il Bisonte beauty case, $150;
ilbisonte.com. Toteme tote, $590; shopBAZAAR.com . Fear of God zip hoodie, $895; fearofgod.com. Mateo earrings, $700; shopBAZAAR.com .

120 B A Z A A R
 T H E B A Z A A R
THE WORK WARDROBE

Easy ELEGANCE
FASHION EDITOR: JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN. MODEL IMAGE, TOP: SHARIF HAMZA; MODEL: ENIOLA ABIORO; RUNWAY: COURTESY PRADA; SHOES AND JEWELRY COMPOSITIONS:
RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D; ALL OTHER STILL LIFE: COURTESY THE BRANDS. FOR MORE SHOPPING INFORMATION, GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS.

EXTRA SPECIAL
Opt for long leather
gloves and an east-west
top-handle bag.

CLASSIC PIECES and POLISHED

EXTRAS always get the JOB DONE

SWEATER WEATHER
A neutral crewneck
pairs perfectly with
an A-line skirt.
At left: Prada

Clockwise from top left: Marant sweater, $990; shopBAZAAR.com . Loro Piana skirt, $1,950; loropiana.com. LaQuan Smith coat, $3,900;
shopBAZAAR.com . Miu Miu bag, $3,300; shopBAZAAR.com . Sermoneta Gloves gloves, $590; 212-319-5946. Pomellato Catene earrings,
$7,450, and necklace; pomellato.com. Pierre Hardy slingbacks, $895; us.pierrehardy.com. Gucci slingbacks, $1,250; gucci.com. Roger Vivier
slingbacks, $1,200; rogervivier.com. Armani Beauty Luminous Silk Glow Setting Powder, $64; giorgioarmanibeauty-usa.com.

0 9 / 2 3 121
 T H E B A Z A A R
THE WORK WARDROBE

Suitable ATTIRE

= BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM
FASHION EDITOR: JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN. MODEL IMAGE, TOP: PIETER HUGO; MODEL: ELISE REVETT; RUNWAY: COURTESY FENDI;
TOP, TROUSERS, RING, AND GLASSES: COURTESY THE BRANDS; ALL OTHER STILL LIFE: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D.
Stay SHARP in MODERN TAILORING
and LEATHER ACCESSORIES
SUPER SIZE
A large carryall fits
everything you need.

LONG GAME
Swap out a blazer
for an overcoat in a
coordinating tone.
At right: Fendi

Clockwise from top left: Carolina Herrera top with tie, $1,290; shopBAZAAR.com . Destree trousers, $440; destree.com.
Tiffany & Co. ring, $4,800; tiffany.com. Herno coat, $1,275; shopBAZAAR.com . Oliver Peoples glasses, $539; oliverpeoples.com. Hermès bag,
$8,150; hermes.com. Fendi bag, $6,300; shopBAZAAR.com . Jimmy Choo boots, $1,695; shopBAZAAR.com . Cartier Santos-Dumont watch,
$6,050; 800-CARTIER. Omega De Ville Prestige watch, $7,000; omegawatches.com. Tod’s derbys, $1,325; tods.com.

122 B A Z A A R
THE COMEBACK TOUR
OCTOBER 2023, ESPRIT.COM
 T H E B A Z A A R
THE VAULT: The Necklace

ACCESSORIES DIRECTOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO. SET DESIGN: ADRIAN CRABBS. FOR MORE SHOPPING INFORMATION, GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS.
Worldly
TREASURES

HARRY WINSTON’S
ROYAL ADORNMENTS
collection offers a
MODERN TAKE on the
historical jewels Winston
himself collected and
designed for MONARCHS
and ARISTOCRATS and
includes this piece,
which showcases a regal
25-carat SAPPHIRE

Harry Winston Viscountess necklace from the

Royal Adornments collection; 800-988-4110.

124 PHOTOGRAPH BY SERGIY BARCHUK B A Z A A R

 In GOOD Company
WELCOME TO A NEW SEASON OF SHOP BAZAAR. Dedicated to delivering an unrivaled e-commerce experience, we’ve partnered with the buzziest brands
and game-changing retailers that will excite you. Discover an exclusive edit of leather bags from Advene, clinically proven skincare from Dr. Rossi Derm MD,
charming fine jewelry from Storrow, stylish home decor from abc carpet & home, designer fashion from Boyds, and more coveted must-haves.
NECKLACES: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D. STYLING: JESSIE LIEBMAN. ALL OTHER IMAGERY COURTESY OF THE BRANDS.

abc carpet & home

The experts at abc carpet & home know that your space is an
extension of your personality. Convert every corner and tabletop into
a display of self-expression with the perfect decor for you.

BOYDS
Celebrating their 85th anniversary,
Boyds continues to be the go-to for
those that expect the extraordinary,
every day. Shop the trends here
before they become trends.

SHOPPING AT SHOPBAZAAR.COM
IS EASIER THAN EVER. SCAN THE
CODE WITH YOUR SMARTPHONE TO
DISCOVER EXCLUSIVE NEW ARRIVALS
& COVETED MUST-HAVES.

= BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM
 T H E B A Z A A R
THE VAULT: Global Influences

1.

7.

ACCESSORIES DIRECTOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO. JEWELRY COMPOSITIONS (EARRINGS WITH RING, BANGLES) AND
BROKEN ENGLISH PENDANT: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D; ALL OTHER STILL LIFE: COURTESY THE BRANDS
8.

2.

3.
6.

Building a top-notch
JEWELRY COLLECTION
is about INVESTING
in pieces that are at
once WEARABLE and
COVETABLE and will
stand the test of TIME.
Here, some of the
best NEW FUTURE
9.
HEIRLOOMS to add
to your OWN.
4.
5. 10.

CULTURAL SYMBOLS
Some of the most distinctive new pieces celebrate an array of traditions, from rings and necklaces
that feature Egyptian iconography to pins and bracelets with Roman and Indian motifs.
1. Silvia Furmanovich earrings, $13,190; shopBAZAAR.com . 2. Ippolita ring; ippolita.com. 3. Messika Paris earrings; shopBAZAAR.com .
4. Chopard Sculpture ring from the Red Carpet Collection; chopard.com. 5. Broken English Antique Pharaoh Pendant, $3,300; brokenenglishjewelry.com.
6. Van Cleef & Arpels Anfora clip from the Le Grand Tour collection; 877-VAN-CLEEF. 7. Bulgari Mediterranea Divas’ Dream High Jewelry necklace;
800-BULGARI. 8. Margery Hirschey Barcelona Arch earrings featuring Gemfields Mozambican rubies, $10,500; margeryhirschey.com.
9. Sabyasachi bangles; 646-799-9400. 10. Le Vian ring; levian.com.

128 B A Z A A R
 T H E B A Z A A R
THE VAULT: Modern Classics

DIAMOND ACCENTS, DECO

DETAILS, and ARTFULLY
STREAMLINED DESIGNS
will always be in STYLE
= BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM
JEWELRY COMPOSITIONS (RINGS, NECKLACES), PASQUALE BRUNI BRACELET, AND SAINT LAURENT BRACELET: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D;
ALL OTHER STILL LIFE: COURTESY THE BRANDS. FOR MORE SHOPPING INFORMATION, GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS.

SPARKLE AND SHINE

Pavé rings and earrings are an easy
way to add a touch of subtle twinkle.
Rings, from top: Pomellato Catene
ring; pomellato.com. Engelbert knot
rings; brokenenglishjewelry.com.
Above, from left: Ana Khouri Phillipa
ear piece; anakhouri.com. Piaget
Metaphoria High Jewellery collection
earrings; piaget.com.

MATCH GAME
A mix of sleek coordinating pieces
radiates instant effortless glamour. OFF THE CUFF
From top: Louis Vuitton B Blossom Level up any look with a chunky
necklace, $4,650; 866-VUITTON. bracelet featuring intricate jeweling.
Chopard Happy Diamonds Planet CHAIN REACTION Bracelets, from top: Saint Laurent
earrings, $4,050; chopard.com. A braided metallic statement necklace strikes the by Anthony Vaccarello Byzance
Pasquale Bruni Ton Joli Om Tare perfect balance between elegant and opulent. bracelet, $2,690; 212-980-2970.
bracelet; pasqualebruni.com. Hermès Necklaces, from top: John Hardy necklace; johnhardy.com. Dolce & Gabbana Alta Gioielleria
Météores ring; hermes.com. Buccellati Crepe de Chine necklace; buccellati.com. bracelet; dolcegabbana.com. HB

0 9 / 2 3 129
MOROCCANOIL.COM
Luxury Salons & Spas, Bluemercury, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Sephora
A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BEAUTY
 V O I C E S
THE PEOPLE AND IDEAS SHAPING THE CULTURE

AYO EDEBIRI,
MELANIE LYNSKEY, and

EDEBIRI: ROBBY KLEIN/CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES; HORGAN: LEEOR WILD/KINTZING/REDUX; LYNSKEY: BERTIE WATSON/CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES
SHARON HORGAN on making
PRESTIGE TV with a TWIST,
the MAGIC of OPRAH, and finding
LIGHT in the DARKNESS
S
ince the late 1990s, we’ve been in the era of “prestige tele- by Horgan, Eve Hewson, Anne-Marie Duff, Eva Birthistle, and
vision,” so named for the number of highly acclaimed, Sarah Greene—who are each trying to kill “the Prick,” the abusive
internationally successful TV shows created during this and sadistic husband of the second-oldest sibling.
time. From The Sopranos to Breaking Bad to Game of Thrones, the Yellowjackets, starring Melanie Lynskey (also of The Last
period has been defined by long-running series that dominate of Us fame) and ’90s icons Juliette Lewis and Christina Ricci,
in viewership, critical reception, and award wins. But now, in a takes an even darker turn as it follows a New Jersey high school
moment when there are more streaming platforms than ever and, soccer team that, after its plane crashes on the way to a tourna-
subsequently, an onslaught of shows, viewers are faced with an ment, is forced to survive the Canadian wilderness by any means
excess of choice in an oversaturated market. possible—cannibalism included. Lynskey earned a nomination
The Bear, Yellowjackets, and Bad Sisters, all Emmys contenders for Outstanding Lead Actress in a Drama Series for her work
this year, have managed to stand out from the rest for the exquisite on Yellowjackets, as well as for Outstanding Guest Actress in
tone they have been able to strike, somewhere between comedy a Drama Series for her role in The Last of Us as the leader of a
and drama, as they capture the tensions, farces, and struggles postapocalyptic revolutionary movement.
of modern life. The hilarious, deeply thoughtful actresses who Here, Edebiri, Horgan, and Lynskey discuss the twisted allure
help lead them lend levity and endearing portrayals of complex of their off-center shows and what keeps them engaged and excited
women to plotlines that, at times, can be downright macabre. as actors and storytellers.
In The Bear, comedian, writer, producer, and actress Ayo
Edebiri—who is nominated for an Emmy for Outstanding SHARON HORGAN: What are your favorite kinds of projects to
Supporting Actress in a Comedy Series—stars alongside Jeremy work on? How do you pick a script?
Allen White as an ambitious young sous chef who helps bring MELANIE LYNSKEY: Both The Bear and Bad Sisters are dream
order and tenacity to a run-down family restaurant trying to shows for me because I love things that are dramatic but also
get back on its feet. Tempered by Edebiri’s cool head (relative have comedy. Both of your shows are so funny. On Bad Sisters,
to those of her fellow characters) and the intimate moments of there were times when I was watching where I was just like, “Do
emotional connection she brings, the show is a meditation on they need another sister?” I’m practicing my Irish accent. But
the high-pressure restaurant industry and the claustrophobic I just choose things based on a weird instinct.
pressures that come with it. SH: With Bad Sisters, I started getting interested in telling stories
Bad Sisters and Yellowjackets are decidedly different in tone and through genre, like horror or thriller. It feels like you can deliver
format. Both feature ensemble casts made up almost entirely of everything you want to talk about but you’re disguising it a little. But
women who must rally together to overcome sinister circumstances. I don’t know that I always 100 percent trust my instinct. And it’s a bit
The former was codeveloped by Irish actress, writer, director, annoying, because if you’re show-running something, you’re always
and producer Sharon Horgan, who earned nominations for both having to think about everything. People expect you to constantly
Outstanding Lead Actress in a Drama Series and Outstanding Writer trust your gut or just have answers. And in actual fact, I always find
for a Drama Series for her work on the show. A riotously funny that I rely on other people’s opinions. I have my own instinct or
black comedy, it centers on five sisters—played with brilliance taste, and then I sometimes feel like, “But I could be wrong!” ➤

132 TEXT BY ARIANA MARSH B A Z A A R

 “I’m so AWARE of the
tall-poppy SYNDROME,
where we’ll BUILD UP
a celebrity we LOVE...
until she’s smiling
TOO MUCH or she says
something TOO FUNNY.”
AYO EDEBIRI

“There’s something about BEING in a show that is

so COMPLETELY AN ENSEMBLE that makes you
NOT want to just be out there on a LIMB anymore.”
SHARON HORGAN

“My DREAM for myself was always to

be a WORKING ACTOR, and I’ve been
doing that for such a LONG TIME.”
MELANIE LYNSKEY

133
 V O I C E S
IN CONVERSATION

I wish I didn’t have that, but I think it’s also good. French and Jennifer Saunders did so many crazy, outlandish, silly,
AYO EDEBIRI: Well, I feel like if you didn’t have that, you might silly things. With Dawn especially, there was something about her
be a sociopath. that made me laugh so much.
SH: Or a man. AE: I definitely agree with Tina Fey and Amy Poehler, and then
AE: And where those two circles intersect, who can say? But to me, also Rachel Dratch. I felt really relieved seeing somebody who
that’s the sign of a good leader. I love when I work with a director was so willing to commit to the bit and not be afraid to look like
and I’m like, “You have a sense of what you want. You know your an idiot. That was freeing. I loved Living Single growing up. All
vision. That doesn’t waver.” But they still are collaborating. They the women on that show inspire me, like Erika Alexander, Kim
are still asking people their thoughts and their opinions, because Fields, Kim Coles, and Queen Latifah. This is so cheesy, but Oprah.
that’s when a project can shine. We’re not just objects.…Who are I have so many memories of watching Oprah with my mom after
some of the women in TV that originally inspired you? school and really feeling united with the country. Her show was
SH: Maybe this is a weird answer, but Roseanne Barr. When such a window into culture at large for me because I grew up
I was watching her sitcom Roseanne back in the day, I thought pretty religious; I was sneaking a lot of TV. But that was one of the

YELLOWJACKETS: KAILEY SCHWERMAN/SHOWTIME; THE BEAR: CHUCK HODES/FX; BAD SISTERS: APPLE TV
it was the greatest thing. There was so much heart in it; it had things that I could unabashedly watch. I felt like, “Oh, wow! You
so many big laughs and extraordinary actors. It was quite an can really be in people’s homes and make them feel something.
inspiration seeing a show like that, named after the woman at And that’s very cool.” I know there are people who exist who don’t
the heart of it. It sort of hearkened back to I Love Lucy, The Mary like Oprah, but I have no interest in them.
Tyler Moore Show, and Rhoda. I also loved U.K. comedians like ML: I don’t understand that, even slightly. I would watch that show
Dawn French and Jennifer Saunders and women who looked every single day. I met her once and she hugged me, and I instantly
like they were having a ball. Also, Tracey Ullman—just watching burst into tears. She didn’t seem surprised.
her be so funny in her own sketch show. She always looked like AE: She was like, “Yeah, this happens every three hours.” I think
she was really in charge. And then Tina Fey and Amy Poehler. another icon that I’d be mad with myself if I didn’t say is Cree
I remember falling in love with those two and just thinking, “Oh, Summer, who was on A Different World and has done so much
you are the funniest people in the world. You are so beyond talented voice acting. I feel like people in my generation know her voice
but also smart and look like the kind of women who don’t take instinctively. She played Susie on Rugrats and Numbuh 5 on
any shit, but not in a way that means you’re a ball-breaker.” And Codename: Kids Next Door. She was one of the first Black women
Goldie Hawn. I still do find her one of the best out there. What to really break through into voice acting in such a massive way. To
about you, Melanie? me, she represents the freedom of voice acting, because it doesn’t
ML: God! So many good answers there. When I was a child, I really matter what your identity markers are. You have a voice, and you
loved Thirtysomething. It was my favorite show. The women felt can play anything from a little kid to a flying dog.
very real to me, and it was very naturalistic. And then, when you ML: If you could have a role on any other TV show, either currently
were talking about Roseanne, I just was thinking about Laurie running or from the past, what would it be and why?
Metcalf and just women who seemed like women. Also, Dawn SH: Wow! Melanie, do you want to go first?

“MISOGYNY is so SCARY and so EXHAUSTING, “The BEST part of it all is that

and I’m so TIRED. And there is that horrible I get to WORK on a SHOW that I LOVE
thing of ‘Is it COMING for ME?’ It’s very with PEOPLE who I think
COMFORTABLE being UNDERRATED.” are so COOL and so SMART.”
MELANIE LYNSKEY AYO EDEBIRI

134 B A Z A A R
ML: I did just say I would be the long-lost sister on Bad Sisters. and wants the day to go quickly, which I always enjoy. So, since
I mean, honestly. There’s some of those scenes where all of you that episode of Mrs. America, she’s been a dream of mine to work
are together and I’m just like, “Women!” with again. Also, Yorgos Lanthimos and Christopher Guest; I’ve
SH: It’s the same actually for Yellowjackets and The Bear. There’s always had a dream of doing a Christopher Guest movie because
something about being in a show that is so completely an ensemble I love improvising.
that makes you not want to just be out there on a limb anymore. SH: Melanie, you’ve had an extraordinary career, and it feels like
It’s all about the relationship and the chemistry of a big group you’re only now getting your due. How does that feel?
of people. ML: My dream for myself was always to be a working actor, and I’ve
ML: I love the magic that happens with particular people. been doing that for such a long time. So I always have felt really
Sometimes I would get to do a little scene with Juliette [Lewis] in proud of my career. It’s funny—over the last few years, people
Yellowjackets and I would just be like, “Oh, it’s like fireworks.” have been like, “Here you are!” And it’s like “Yeah. Thank you.”
I also love Severance. I mean, it’s nice to have confirmation that people are watching
SH: I was going to say Succession. I was actually asked this ques- things. I certainly have done a lot of independent movies that
tion before, and I said, “Oh, well, Succession.” And then someone have just fluttered away in the breeze, and I’ve been like, “Oh,
smarter than me answered the question and said, “I would never I wish someone had seen that.”
want to be in my favorite show, because how can I watch? How SH: It’s funny, because it always happens to the best actresses.
can I enjoy it?” I was like, “God! That’s totally right.” Do you know what I mean? Like when suddenly everyone was
AE: Maybe this is just the little comedian in the back of my head, watching Carrie Coon, or suddenly everyone was watching Ann
but I got to do an episode of I Think You Should Leave; I love Dowd. It’s like everyone goes, “Fucking hell! Where have you been?”
doing stuff that’s just stupid. And with the highest respect, it’s so I mean, obviously, she’s been working her entire life, but there are
dumb. I also really love The Righteous Gemstones. It’s so silly. But suddenly roles coming along that are noteworthy or capture the
having grown up really religious, there are so many things about imagination. The Last of Us captured everyone’s imagination, as
it where I’m like, “This is really true,” and it gets to the nuggets of did Yellowjackets.…Ayo, what’s it been like having all eyes on you
the hypocrisies in a lot of big moneymaking churches. all of a sudden?
SH: What film directors would both of you most like to work with? AE: It’s almost this thing that feels like your life is being reframed,
Do you think about things in those terms? like there’s something different between your lived experience
AE: Yeah. Let’s see if they read this conversation. I really love a lot and how people are perceiving you or something. I can clock in
of foreign films. I love Bong Joon Ho’s movies. Something like my head that I’m going to award shows that I’ve never gone to
that would be really sick. before, or I’m getting photos taken of me where I’m all dolled
SH: I am a big fan of Ruben Östlund, from Force Majeure on, really. up, and that hasn’t happened before. It’s exciting, but it’s also
That all looks like fun. somehow the least-interesting part. The best part of it all is that
ML: I did a series called Mrs. America, and Janicza Bravo directed one I get to work on a show that I love with people who I think are
of the episodes. I love her movies. I had this working relationship so cool and so smart.
with her that was so dreamy. I always feel that a good director is SH: You’re 100 percent right. It’s by far the least-interesting part.
like a good therapist, where they tell you something that unlocks It’s also the most stressful part. I don’t know if it’s just me, but
it for you. Her notes were always very specific. She’s really funny this is where I’m happy: on a bed with my dog.
AE: That mental math is strange, especially because I’m a kid
of the internet. I’m so aware of the tall-poppy syndrome, where
we’ll build up a celebrity we love, like Anne Hathaway, until she’s
smiling too much or she says something too funny.
SH: Until her head is raised a little too high above the parapet.
AE: Right. Then we have to cut it. But then all of a sudden, she’s
back and we love her, and we were waiting for her. Why was
everybody so mean to her? Like, who did that? It couldn’t have
been us.
ML: Misogyny is so scary and so exhausting, and I’m so tired.
And there is that horrible thing of “Is it coming for me?” It’s very
comfortable being underrated.
AE: Coming up, there was this fear of “Oh, no, I’m going to be
the only woman in the room. Oh, no, I’m going to be the only
Black person in the room.” Or, dare I say, both at the same time.
Then there’s the fear of “Oh, no, how will it be with other women?
“I started getting interested in TELLING STORIES
Will there also be this scarcity mentality?” It’s been such a relief,
through genre, like HORROR or THRILLER. It feels feeling that that’s actually not true and that there is room for all
like you can DELIVER everything you want to of us to support each other and uplift each other and do our
TALK about but you’re DISGUISING it a little.” own things.
SHARON HORGAN ML: Sharon, you are known for your work (Continued on page 246)

0 9 / 2 3 135
 V O I C E S
ESSAY

Face VALUE

ROMNEY MUELLER-WESTERNHAGEN

The new documentary INVISIBLE BEAUTY chronicles

MODEL, AGENT, and ACTIVIST BETHANN HARDISON’s
decades-long fight for greater DIVERSITY in the FASHION
INDUSTRY. Here, she REFLECTS on her work.
136 B A Z A A R
I
was born and grew up in Bedford-Stuyvesant in Brooklyn, to go back in front of the audience another two more times, and
New York. I loved every second of my childhood. It was nice all I wanted to do was go to the bathroom and hide.
to be a latchkey kid; I was on my own a lot. I lived with my In 1973, I modeled in what’s now known as the Battle of
mother and grandmother until I was 12, and then I went to live Versailles. The idea behind it was to bring five American designers
with my father. He was such a true intellectual and Islamic imam. to Paris and have them compete against five French designers as
I was a successful child tap dancer and ran track for the Police a benefit to restore the Palace of Versailles. It was a way to expose
Athletic League, but before my last year of junior high school, American designers to Europe and put them on the map.
I decided to walk away from the High School of Performing Arts and The brainchild behind it was Eleanor Lambert, publicist to all
go to George W. Wingate High School, which was predominantly the American designers who participated.
white. It was only three years old and designed in such a unique By then, I was working as an assistant to Stephen Burrows,
way that I thought it was a calling. I started making friends very who happened to be one of the hot young designers. He was
quickly; I had a sense of security and self-confidence. automatically chosen to participate. Aside from Stephen, there
Every year, each grade had to compete against the others and was a lot of drama between the American designers, and it was a
put on a musical, and every year I was nominated by my class to cold, grueling experience until the very end. Liza Minnelli was
produce it. I also joined the chorus and became the school’s first our only entertainment besides us models and some dancers. But
Black cheerleader. Some of the best basketball players came from we had music, which the French designers hadn’t done before.
our high school, like Roger Brown, so we got to cheer at Madison Joe Eula, who was doing our set designs, had measured everything
Square Garden. For a kid to be there—it was huge. in feet, not meters. So where we had a blank stage, the French had
After high school, I moved to Manhattan. It was during the elaborate sets, Josephine Baker, Rudolf Nureyev, and the Crazy
civil-rights movement, and everything was happening: the Black Horse Saloon girls. We went in feeling very insecure about that.
Is Beautiful movement, the Black Panthers, all of that. But with all that was wrong, it turned out right for us.
I had a job at AT&T but wanted to work in the garment When the show came to pass, I watched all of the American
district, so I found one at a custom button factory. I dressed designers become a unit. I got on the runway and knocked the
too well to be in the factory all day, so my boss had me make ball out of the park; I was one of their strongest walkers. At
the deliveries to all the design houses. It was a big coat-and-suit the end of our performance, everybody threw their programs up
business at that time. in the air for us and screamed, “Bravo! Bravo!” Everything was
Later, I worked at a low-end dress company called Marty so different in our presentation, which made us stand out. We
Gutmacher, and then at a junior dress company owned by Ruth only had 10 girls of color, but that was a lot back then. Everyone
Manchester and her sister, Sylvia Courtney. They really educated thinks that what’s happening with diversity in fashion now is all
me about the garment business, sales, and retail. While I was brand-new, but it was starting to happen back then. People like
there, the designer Willi Smith discovered me on the street and to say that Versailles changed the fashion industry as a whole,
wanted me to model for him. I ultimately became his muse. He but that’s not true. What it did was influence the French to begin
introduced me to Bruce Weber, who was becoming a photographer, casting Black girls.
and eventually I signed with a modeling agency. I started working for a modeling agency based in New York
I kept a full-time job the entire time I was modeling, because called Click Models in the early ’80s. There was an agency in Paris
I could never afford not to. Eventually I went to Paris to model that wanted me to open a location in New York, but I discovered
for a lot of young companies, like Claude Montana, Jean-Charles that they weren’t going to actually make me a partner, so in 1984
I founded Bethann Management. I never wanted to own an agency,
but a few models whom I’d worked with at Click were adamant
I’m HAPPY that I DARED about me being on my own and believed in me.
to continue to do things. I didn’t Of the seven original models we represented, only three were
white; everybody else was mixed-race. They included Bonnie
INTEND to do what I did; Berman, who was the top model of the world at that moment;
it was just a CALLING. Ariane Koizumi, who was half Asian and half European and already
working for Vogue; Nick Kamen, who was half East Asian and also
de Castelbajac, Kenzo, and Issey Miyake when Issey first came to Scottish; and Tahnee Welch, who is Raquel Welch’s daughter. The
Paris. I was a different type of model because I was a new image, agency immediately got a lot of press; it was good that way.
and since I loved to entertain, I brought a lot to the runway. Back When I built out the roster, I made sure it was integrated and
then, they encouraged models to show their personality. that anybody I wanted would stay. The photographer Steven Meisel
There was only one time when I doubted myself, and it was at used to say, “You’re the only one who has Asians in your agency.”
my first runway show, for Chester Weinberg, a top designer at the I went with what I was inspired by. I later signed Veronica Webb,
time. It was like I’d walked into the wrong neighborhood and there Roshumba Williams, and Tyson Beckford.
was no way I could get out because everyone was watching. It was In 1988, I started the Black Girls Coalition with Iman. I saw
just that I was a different type of model. That’s not what brown how many Black models were coming up at that time. American
models looked like then; they were a little bit more sophisticated, Elle started to book Black girls and put them on the cover, and it
and I was more edgy. Chester stood behind his decision to have changed the game; it made other agencies want to sign Black girls,
me in the show and made sure that he gave me confidence. I had and it encouraged competing magazines (Continued on page 246)

0 9 / 2 3 AS TOLD TO ARIANA MARSH 137

2023
 *

*
In a 28-day study applying a 1% Pentavitin® formulation, skin remained hydrated for 72 hours.
 N E W S
EDITED BY ALISON S. COHN

BACK to BLACK

Top row, from left: Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, Versace, Ralph Lauren, Miu Miu, Valentino,
Loewe, and Givenchy. Middle row, from left: Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, and Chanel. Bottom row, from left: Dior,
Alexander McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana, Yohji Yamamoto, Balenciaga, Zero + Maria Cornejo, and Tory Burch.

140 TEXT BY ALISON S. COHN B A Z A A R

 On both the RUNWAY and the RED CARPET, the LITTLE
BLACK DRESS is having another GREAT BIG MOMENT
IT’S HARD TO BELIEVE that this time a Kelly–esque black Bottega Veneta tea-length
year ago, pink was fashion’s favorite color. It dress in Cannes and Paris, respectively,
was widely available in a robust spectrum, while Dakota Johnson swanned around
from the dusty rose of millennial pink to Milan in a sculptural black Versace sheath
THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JACOPO RAULE/GC IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES; MEGA/GC IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES; STEFANIA M. D’ALESSANDRO/GETTY IMAGES

the saturated fuchsia of Valentino’s Pink that was as formfitting as Princess Diana’s
FOR MARTINI; ANTHONY HARVEY/SHUTTERSTOCK; CINDY ORD/GETTY IMAGES FOR TIFFANY & CO.; MARC NINGHETTO/CHOPARD; DANIELE VENTURELLI/WIREIMAGE;

PP. Barbiecore was going strong; with the famous revenge dress.
film starring Margot Robbie as the beloved
fashion doll with a signature hot-pink hue
T his recent U-turn from pink makes
CINDY ORD/GETTY IMAGES FOR TIFFANY & CO.; CHRISTOPHER POLK/WWD VIA GETTY IMAGES; OPPOSITE PAGE: COURTESY THE DESIGNERS

expected to be a blockbuster the following sense when you consider the way we
summer, trend forecasters at the Pantone consume celebrity photos on social media,
Color Institute anointed a bright pinkish- suggests Kate Young, a stylist who works
purple called Viva Magenta the 2023 Color with Johnson, Michelle Williams, Scarlett
of the Year. Fast-forward to the Barbie world Johansson, Julianne Moore, and Selena
premiere in July, when Robbie posed for Gomez. “A lot of the clothes that have been
pictures on a pink carpet, in front of a pink the most successful on Instagram and TikTok
Corvette convertible, but wearing a black are, like, really wacky,” Young says. “After
custom Schiaparelli Haute Couture bust- looking at such crazy prints and so much
ier dress that was fully embroidered with color and logos for years, a black dress in
sequins and finished with layers of tulle. your feed now feels soothing.”
The only nod to pink in Robbie’s look was Valerie Steele, director and chief cura-
the mousseline scarf she carried in her right tor of the Museum at the Fashion Institute
hand. This Barbie wears black. And she’s of Technology and author of The Black
not alone. Dress, agrees: “After being deluged by color,
The little black dress, or LBD, that most people are rediscovering the appeal of
iconic of styles, popularized nearly a century black.” In fact, Steele observes, there’s a
ago by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, has parallel between the moment of peak color
returned in a big way. The LBD Chanel saturation when the little black dress first
introduced in 1926 was a simple, sporty came into being and our own. “Chanel
black dress made of lightweight crepe de described feeling nauseated by the brilliant
chine, with long sleeves and a hemline that colors in Poiret’s fashion, which were these

from the codes of menswear.

“A little black dress is the most

useful. It adapts to any occasion,” says
Vivienne Westwood creative director

That transitional quality is thanks to

Garçons designs and Vivienne Westwood’s

draped corset dresses.
This past May at the Cannes Film
Festival, Kirsten Dunst wore a black tiered

collection, while Lily-Rose Depp sported

three different black Chanel minidresses
on the Croisette in the span of two days, Top row: Elle Fanning and Kylie Jenner in different styles.”
Bottega Veneta and Dakota Johnson in Versace.
including a strapless LBD from the Fall 1994 Middle row: Hailey Bieber in Versace,
Perhaps the most famous pop-culture
collection and others made from iridescent Margot Robbie in Schiaparelli Haute Couture, example of the LBD is the oft-imitated
and Lily-Rose Depp in Chanel. Bottom row:
tweed and allover sequins. Elle Fanning and Kirsten Dunst in Chanel, Shaunette Renée Wilson
black satin Givenchy sheath that Audrey
Kylie Jenner wore the exact same Grace in Marc Jacobs, and Gal Gadot in Loewe. Hepburn wore with black opera gloves, ➤

0 9 / 2 3 141
 N E W S
BACK TO BLACK

with matching bloomers, which is similar

in the opening scene of the 1961 film to a styling trick at A. Potts, where LBDs
were shown over pants.)

Tiffany & Co.’s Fifth Avenue flag-

ship in New York this past spring, B lack certainly has a way of making
everything feel fresh and modern.

FFORME: CHRISTOPHE BERLET; A. POTTS: AMMAR JAMAL; LAQUAN SMITH AND PUPPETS AND PUPPETS: DON ASHBY; ALL RUNWAY: COURTESY THE DESIGNERS
guests channeled different facets See the very of-the-moment black lace at
of Golightly’s signature outfit, with Dior, chiffon at Valentino, burnout velvet
Hailey Bieber arriving in a black at Puppets and Puppets, and illusion tulle
bodycon look by Versace and Gal naked dresses at Nensi Dojaka this fall, which
Gadot dressed in black pannier- are reminiscent of certain Y2K styles but
hipped Loewe. cover just enough to make them feel like
“The little black dress is just things actual adults might actually want to
the be-all and end-all of chic,” wear. Tory Burch offered an object lesson
in deconstruction this season by cutting an
LBD from a sheer power mesh tradition-
his own homage to Hepburn’s Breakfast at ally used for corsets. She draped the fabric
Tiffany’s dress in his Fall 2023 collection around the body in a single layer, left the
with a one-shouldered draped maxi that
reads as very evening but is actually cut
from a lightweight nylon-taffeta outerwear
fabric that gives it a certain practicality.
“It would be impossible to improve on the
look Hubert de Givenchy designed for
that film,” Williams acknowledges. “That
scene will always be iconic, but, needless “I loved the idea of challenging
to say, times have changed drastically in everything we’ve come to expect
the past 60-odd years, and I wanted to from a little black dress,” says
take that spirit and reinterpret it using LaQuan Smith, another fan of
today’s vocabulary.”

F
and glamorous sex appeal, the designer
says he was inspired by Dynasty, Bond girls,
and ’80s club fashion.

T here are no rules anymore for what a

LBD should look like—it can be super
simple and long or fluffy and sparkly and
short—or who can wear one. “A little black
shoes, but definitely the dress.” dress for me is the piece that you wear
“The fun thing about a black with everything,” says Harris Reed, who
dress is that you can make it opened his Fall 2023 debut as Nina Ricci
creative director with a high-camp version
of the LBD: a black polka-dot minidress
with an enormous back bow that was worn
with exposed bra cups and micro bubble over a black glitter polka-dot tulle catsuit.
hems. “They were all way too short and “A little black dress is really a piece of
schoolgirlish, but if you just change the Top row, from left: Luar, Nensi Dojaka, and style DNA that every woman, man, and
Nina Ricci. Middle row, from left: Fforme, A. Potts,
proportion ever so slightly, then those are and LaQuan Smith. Bottom row, from left:
nonbinary individual should have in
very classic cocktail dresses.” (Many came Puppets and Puppets, Tove, and Conner Ives. their wardrobe.” HB

142 B A Z A A R
 D O O N E Y. C O M / E N D U R I N G

NORWALK, CONNECTICUT

Quality Leathergoods Since 1975

 N E W S
FASHION AND CULTURE

SKY HIGH X SN
Harper’s Bazaar editor in

MODEL IN COLLINA STRADA GOWN: © CHARLIE ENGMAN/COURTESY RIZZOLI NEW YORK; ANN LOWE WITH MODEL: JOHNSON PUBLISHING COMPANY ARCHIVE, COURTESY FORD FOUNDATION,
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chief Samira Nasr designed
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the collection—which includes
a striped button-up made from
deadstock Comme des Garçons
Shirt fabric, an organic-
cotton jersey with Nasr’s lucky
I CARE A LOTTA, I WEAR number, and an upcycled red
COLLINA STRADA One beanie—will help the farm
part photo collage, one part provide fresh meat, dairy,
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explores her use of rainbow has also collaborated with
dresses made of rosebushes stylist Alastair McKimm and
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bottles as vehicles for environ-
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THE FRAUD, LAND OF MILK AND HONEY, EVIL EYE,

BY ZADIE SMITH BY C PAM ZHANG BY ETAF RUM
Based on a real court case that In Zhang’s second novel, set in Yara, a working wife and mother,
transfixed Victorian England, the wake of an environmental struggles to understand why
Smith’s first historical novel disaster that has decimated she feels so unfulfilled. Raised
f o l l ow s t h e h o u s e ke e p e r most of Earth’s edible crops, in a Palestinian community in
cousin of a novelist who takes a young chef accepts a job at a Brooklyn, she always grappled
interest in a trial involving a secretive food-research facility with the prescriptions of her
man fraudulently claiming to be on an Italian mountaintop that culture, ultimately agreeing
the heir to the Tichborne family caters to the global elite. There, to an arranged (and troubled)
fortune. What draws her in isn’t the claimant she is shocked to find a storeroom with the world’s marriage but refusing a hijab. Her mother, who
himself but a witness who was formerly enslaved last strawberries, as well as crème fraîche, wild is deeply unhappy in her own life and marriage,
by the Tichbornes in Jamaica. Passionate about boar, and chicken. Enraptured by these fresh tells Yara her dissatisfaction is due to a family
abolition, she convinces him to tell her his story ingredients, the chef continues to cook for the curse—but a therapist helps her understand the
and, in doing so, realizes her own talent as a rich, forcing her to come to terms with her role effects of intergenerational trauma and how she
writer. (Penguin Press) in perpetuating inequality. (Riverhead Books) alone can stop the cycle. (Harper) HB

144 TEXT BY ALISON S. COHN AND ARIANA MARSH B A Z A A R

 What you NEED to BUY NOW
RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D. STYLING: JESSIE LIEBMAN.

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 E S C A P E
THE EYE HAS TO TRAVEL

ISLANDS in the SUN

FALL is the perfect time to
1A

ENJOY the MEDITERRANEAN’s

quiet RHYTHMS

B
lame The White Lotus. This summer, Sicily was overwhelmed
with tourists. Legendary beach-club destinations like Capri
2

and Mykonos are typically elbow to elbow in July and

August, but since Covid-related travel restrictions were lifted, they

FROM TOP: COURTESY PALAZZO PREVITERA (2); NICHOLAS PRAKAS (2); MARIA MISSAGLIA; KAREL BALAS
have been especially packed—despite the record high temperatures.
This explains why savvy travelers are not only planning trips to
the Mediterranean islands in September and October, they are
also venturing further afield.
“Autumn is my favorite time,” says French architect Marie
Rivalant-Lazarakis, owner of two intimate properties on the quiet
From top: Ornate Greek isle of Kastellorizo, part of the Dodecanese archipelago.
17th-century interiors Mediterraneo, a lemon-yellow guest house, is named for the 1991
and easy access to the
Mount Etna grape harvest
Oscar-winning film that was shot there. Last summer, Rivalant-
at Palazzo Previtera in Lazarakis partnered with two friends, Grégoire Du Pasquier, also
Sicily; dreamy sea-view an architect, and Luc Lejeune, an interior designer, to open the
suites at Casa Mediterraneo
on Kastellorizo, Greece;
blood-orange all-suite hotel Casa Mediterraneo across the harbor.
Son Blanc Farmhouse Made of three conjoined neoclassical buildings, the hillside prop-
in Menorca, Spain, erty features six airy suites with sea views and private terraces.
which features a working
farm and garden-to-
When it comes to Spain’s Balearic Islands, it’s always been Ibiza
table dining and Mallorca that have gotten all the attention. But now the more
rural Menorca, with its art-world cachet (Hauser & Wirth opened
an outpost there in 2021), turquoise water, and dramatic copper-
hued beaches, is having a moment. Thanks to Menorca’s strict
historical-preservation laws, there has been a boom of exceptionally
3A

stylish agroturismo properties, from the Menorca Experimental to

Santa Ponsa. The latest and greatest is Son Blanc Farmhouse, an
abandoned 19th-century stone manor refurbished as a 14-room
boutique hotel with an infinity pool overlooking olive groves.
It was renovated by the London-based couple Benoît Pellegrini
and Benedicta Linares Pearce, who is from Menorca. They spent
4

years replanting the land so that by the time Son Blanc opened
this spring, the kitchen team was harvesting herbs, tomatoes, and
artichokes to supply the garden-to-table restaurant.
Even in Sicily, it’s possible to find a quiet corner. Venture inland
and you’ll find the newly opened Palazzo Previtera in Linguaglossa,
with three rooms and two garden cottages set within a 17th-century
family property on the northern side of Mount Etna. Owner Alfio
Puglisi spent the past 10 years impeccably restoring its ornate
interiors: grand spaces lined with brightly patterned historic silk
fabrics and colorful floor tiles, elaborately painted ceilings, and
valuable antiquarian books. Fall is a great time to visit, as some
of the wines being made in the area’s volcanic soil have been
gaining a cult following and the harvest traditionally takes place
in September. Staying here is less like hustling for space with
2A 3 other Americans and more like staying with a charming host. HB

146 TEXT BY GISELA WILLIAMS B A Z A A R

 In GOOD Company
WELCOME TO A NEW SEASON OF SHOP BAZAAR. Dedicated to delivering an unrivaled e-commerce experience, we’ve partnered with the buzziest brands
and game-changing retailers that will excite you. Discover the latest and greatest designers from Modiste, truly unique pieces from Curio at Faena Bazaar,
handblown glassware from Estelle Colored Glass, unforgettable fragrances from Cos Bar, handmade shoes from Isa Tapia, and more incredible must-haves.

MODISTE
Founded in 2020 by former
fashion editor Jami-lyn Fehr,
Modiste is revolutionizing
Nashville’s fast-growing shopping
scene. Offering a refined curation
of only the best of the best in
limited quantities, you’ll fall in love
with everything you see.
CURIO AT FEANA BAZAAR
Located at Faena Bazaar’s 20,000-square-foot marketplace in Miami Beach,
Curio is a multisensory boutique that brings the luxury community together
under one roof. This is a must-visit, must-shop destination.

IMAGERY COURTESY OF THE BRANDS.

SHOPPING AT SHOPBAZAAR.COM IS EASIER

THAN EVER. SCAN THE CODE WITH YOUR
SMARTPHONE TO DISCOVER EXCLUSIVE
COS BAR
NEW ARRIVALS & COVETED MUST-HAVES.

beauty industry thanks to its carefully curated product

selection. Its distinctive edit will inspire your routine from head
to toe. Shop botanical skincare from Sisley-Paris, cult-favorite
fragrances from Byredo, luxe makeup from Tom Ford,
award-winning hair care from Oribe, and so much more.

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 B E A U T Y
THE ART AND SCIENCE OF LOOKING AND FEELING YOUR BEST

ICONS of
SET DESIGN: ADRIAN CRABBS

INNOVATION

The FUTURE of
BEAUTY starts here,
with our picks of
the latest breakthrough
PRODUCTS,
FORMULAS, and
SOLUTIONS

0 9 / 2 3 TEXT BY KATIE INTNER AND JAMIE WILSON / PHOTOGRAPH BY SERGIY BARCHUK 149
 B E A U T Y
ICONS OF INNOVATION

OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS, thousands of new beauty products have landed on store
shelves, promising groundbreaking results—but only a handful have earned icon status. Here are
some of our favorites across skincare, hair care, makeup, and fragrance.

SKIN BODY
R E I N V E N T E D S TA P L E S P a v i s e 5. BODY TALK The latest upgrade of
Dynamic Age Defense SPF (1; $148) 2. 3. 4. 6. Dove Body Wash (12; $7) improves the
sunscreen targets not just UV rays and skin’s moisture barrier for 24 hours—
blue light but also havoc-wreaking reac- and comes in a redesigned bottle that
tive oxygen species, a type of molecule 1. makes it easy to get every last drop.
that further damages cells and DNA. Two patches that go beyond treat-
Lisa Eldridge Seamless Skin Skin ing pimples: Hero Cosmetics Mighty
Enhancing Treatment Cleanser (2; $49) Patch for Fine Lines (13; $25 for six) is
is powered by saponins, plant-derived 7. infused with retinol and delivers 1,390
soaplike cleansing agents that date 8. dissolving micropoints to promote cell
back to ancient Rome. It also doubles turnover, and Fur Ingrown Microdart
as a hydrating mask. (One use can Patch (15; $28 for 12, ) boasts 170
increase moisture levels by 73 percent.) microdarts filled with salicylic acid and
Tower 28 reimagined its cult-favorite cica to exfoliate and soothe. EltaMD
SOS calming spray as the moisturizing UV AOX Mist Broad-Spectrum SPF 40
SOS Daily Barrier Recovery Cream (14; $45, ) quickly turns from white
(6; $24), which hits the reset button on to clear when it hits the skin and can
stressed skin with soothing allantoin. 9. be sprayed upside down to get hard-
to-reach spots. U Beauty Resurfacing
TAKE IT HOME Microneedling is the Body Compound (16; $128, ) speeds
gold standard for in-office treatments up the skin’s self-renewal process with
that address texture and wrinkles. a trifecta of exfoliating acids—glycolic,

RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D
At home, there’s Beyond Miracles lactic, and mandelic—to minimize wrin-
Miracletox Perfection Mesocare Tox kles below your neck. ➤
Ampoule (3; $148 for four), single-use
serum ampoules infused with patented
liquid microneedles that create micro-
channels in the skin to stimulate the 11.
production of collagen and elastin.
10.
SMARTER SERUMS A recent focus of
skincare science is senescent cells,
which are almost zombie cells that send
deleterious aging signals to surrounding
healthy ones. Dior Prestige Le Nectar
(4; $445) fights senescent cells with a
unique rose-and-peptide complex to add 12.
a youthful lift and glow to skin. Orveda 13.
the Omnipotent Concentrate (8; $460)
not only stops cellular senescence from
spreading, with biotech-derived anti-
oxidants and bio-fermented yeast, it
delays their formation.

FRESH DELIVERY Olay Super Serum

(5; $35) is fueled by a proprietary
niacinamide, and the formula turns
from an iridescent purple to clear once
it’s fully absorbed—so you know exactly
when to move on to your next skincare step. Noble Panacea gained traction for
its patented Organic Super Molecular Vessel, developed by the brand’s founder,
organic chemist and Nobel Laureate Sir Fraser Stoddardt. The molecule houses
and protects skincare actives to preserve their efficacy, and in the brand’s new
the Absolute Nourishing Lift Oil (11; $350 for 30 doses), it combines moisturizing
oils with time-released hyaluronic acid, delivering unprecedented nourishment.
16.
PLUMP IT UP Shiseido Bio-Performance Skin Filler Serums (7; $295) have a
two-pronged approach: a nighttime formula, which delivers shrunken hyaluronic-
acid molecules deep into the skin, and a morning formula to restore them to
their original size, dramatically plumping the complexion. A proprietary peptide
in StriVectin Anti-Wrinkle Peptide Plump Line Filling Bounce Serum (9; $89) acti-
vates the proteins that create collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid to soften the
appearance of wrinkles. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare DermInfusions Fill + Repair
Serum (10; $75) sends hyaluronic acid, peptides, niacinamide, and ectoin deep
into skin to soften fine lines. 15. 14.

150
 94%
said thinning hair looks thicker, healthier, and nourished*

Available at revitalash.com
ETERNALLY PINK – RevitaLash Cosmetics honors the courage and strength of our Co-Founder, Gayle Brinkenhoff, and that of women everywhere
® ®

by supporting breast cancer awareness, research and education initiatives year-round, not just in October. This is our Eternally Pink pledge.
*Survey results from a 4-week consumer study of 33 participants including women and men using Volume Enhancing Foam.
©2023 Athena Cosmetics, Inc.
 B E A U T Y
ICONS OF INNOVATION

TOOLS 6.
HAIR
GADGETS We’ve come a long way from HIGH TECH The Dyson Airstrait (4; $500)
sonic cleansing brushes. The Lyma straightens and dries hair to a smooth
Laser (1; $2,695) reinvented the wheel 4. finish using a focused airflow instead
as the first at-home, FDA-cleared, 5. of hot plates to eliminate heat damage.
clinic-grade cosmetic laser. The wand CurrentBody Skin LED Hair Regrowth
emits light energy into the deepest Device (6; $859) is an FDA-cleared
layers of the skin, ramping up the LED-light-therapy helmet used to treat
production of collagen and elastin to hair loss and jump-start regrowth in just
plump and smooth skin (with no down- 10 minutes a day.
time, heat, or pain). A dream for those
with migraines and restless sleepers, DAMAGE DEFENSE Briogeo Moisture
Therabody SmartGoggles (2; $199) + Damage Defense Leave-In Treatment
use heat, massage, and vibrations to (5; $29, ) seals damaged hair and
ease headaches and calm the nervous 7. reinforces cuticles with ceramides,
system. Even lipstick is getting smarter: fatty acids, and copolymers.
YSL Beauty Rouge Sur Mesure Custom
Lip Color Creator (3; $350), a device 8. GOOD GELS Crunchy hair is a draw-
slightly larger than an iPhone, 3D-prints back of using gel. Both Crown Affair
a lip shade you can customize using an the Finishing Gel (7; $42) and Bread
AI-powered smart app. 10. 9. Hair-Gel Curl Capturing Gloss (9; $26)
solve that issue. The first utilizes a
gel-cream formula to create a buildable
hold that seamlessly blends into hair,
2. while the latter features a water-based
blend to define curls, boost shine, and
calm frizz.
1.

RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D
SAVVY SCALP CARE Olaplex No.4D
Clean Volume Detox Dry Shampoo
(8; $30) delivers bond-building and
oil-controlling ingredients to the
scalp without leaving a powdery resi-
due. Oribe Serene Scalp Oil Control
Treatment Mist (10; $58, ) leans on
green marine algae and a prebiotic to
reduce sebum for up to 72 hours. ➤

12.

11.

3.

SCENTS
FRAGRANCES OF THE FUTURE Sustainability is the name of the game, and
perfume is leaning in. The fresh Air Company Air Eau de Parfum (11; $220) uses
patented Airmade technology to transform planet-warming CO2 into a carbon-
negative alcohol. Marc Jacobs Daisy Drops (12; $30 for 30) are single-dose gel
capsules that hold reinterpretations of the original Daisy scent made without
alcohol, all housed in an aluminum tin. In the same vein, luxury brand Aeir merges
biotechnology with perfumery to create its Extrait Molecular de Parfum scents
(13; $69 for four travel sprays), which utilize bioengineered molecule extracts 13.
instead of botanicals to decrease their carbon footprint.

152
 PR E SE NT E D BY EMFA CE

The Future of
FACIAL
TREATMENTS
Emface is the first FDA-cleared technology that
targets facial skin and muscles simultaneously and
gives your face a youthful look without wrinkles.

For the past 20 years, the facial industry has been inundated
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that works on the framework of your face from the inside out
and improves your overall facial appearance.
Emface targets the three most sought-after facial results:
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facial features. After just four 20-minute sessions between
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skin and a youthful look.
MODEL IMAGE: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS MASTER 1305; EMFACE UNIT COURTESY OF THE BRAND; HEADSHOT COURTESY OF DR. PALM.

DOCTOR KNOWS BEST

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Proof in Numbers Zero Downtime Inside & Out

Emface is truly effective—the Patients ask 1) if Emface is Unlike any other treatment or Just four to six sessions of
evidence is in the numbers. painful, and 2) how quickly they device on the market, Emface Emface are recommended
Just one 20-minute can resume normal activities. targets both facial muscles and IRUPD[LPXPEHQHƓWV
Emface treatment produces I have good news on both skin, addressing cutaneous You typically see results in
75,000 contractions/pulses fronts. The procedure doesn’t and structural aging. Emface one to three months after
with impressive results: hurt—it feels like warm pads induces high-intensity facial treatments, so you’ll continue
37 percent* reduction of on your face with mild muscle muscle stimulation to contract
facial wrinkles in treated contractions. It’s ideal for muscles in the forehead You’ll see optimal results
areas, and 26 percent* patients who don’t like needles. and cheeks while radio six to 12 weeks after the last
increase in collagen. And there’s no downtime after frequency energy heats the session. To maintain results, Visit emface.com
*Average results in published studies. an Emface treatment. Most dermis, increasing elastin and I recommend one session IRUPRUHLQIRUPDWLRQ
patients immediately jump right collagen—all of which improves every three to six months.
back into their everyday lives. the overall look of the face.
 B E A U T Y
ICONS OF INNOVATION

3. 4.
1. 2.

= BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM
5.

RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D.
8.

7. 6.

MAKEUP
SUPER SPOOLIES Reapplying mascara midday can turn into a clumpy mess. TIGHT-LIPPED Haus Labs Atomic Shake Lip Lacquer (3; $26) offers a shiny,
Enter M.A.C Lash Dry Shampoo Mascara Refresher (1; $24), a pioneering formula vinyl-finish lip product that is transfer-proof and lasts all day. (Just be sure to
that works to soften your old mascara, which makes touching up with a fresh coat read the instructions for the best results.) Hourglass Confession Lipstick Red 0
a breeze (no makeup remover necessary). For the eyebrows, Grande Cosmetics (5; $39, ) replaces carmine (a red pigment made from crushed insects) with a
GrandeBrow 2-In-1 Tinted Brow Gel + Brow Enhancing Serum (4; $38) is infused plant-based alternative for an animal-friendly, saturated true red.
with moisturizing castor oil, vitamin E, and volumizing mini fibers so you get
bolder brows instantly and fuller ones over time. NO FILTER NEEDED Makeup by Mario SurrealSkin Foundation (2; $42) broke the
internet this year with its filterlike dewy skin finish. Grape-seed oil in its formula
INCLUSIVE EYELINERS Guide Beauty Eyeliner Duo (6; $50) features a built-in moisturizes, while perfecting powders complement the skin’s natural texture.
finger rest that steadies even the most uneasy hand. And you won’t lose control of Uoma Beauty Hydroblast Finishing Powder (8; $39) is a revolutionary hydrating
the Urban Decay 24/7 Ink Easy Ergonomic Liquid Eyeliner Pen (7; $26), designed loose powder made with 52 percent water plus niacinamide and hyaluronic acid.
with a patented precision grip and ultrasharp tip to help draw smooth lines. It sets makeup and blurs pores, but it also has a refreshing, cooling effect. HB

154 B A Z A A R
 In GOOD Company
WELCOME TO A NEW SEASON OF SHOP BAZAAR. Dedicated to delivering an unrivaled e-commerce experience, we’ve partnered with the buzziest brands
and game-changing retailers that will excite you. Discover special gifts they’ll never forget from Feste, charming prints from Hunter Bell, timeless fashion and
accessories from Showroom, bold footwear from Daniella Shevel, trendsetting ready-to-wear from Cara Cara, and more incomparable must-haves.

HUNTER BELL
Designer Hunter Bell believes
FESTE that clothes should inspire delight,
“We inspire people and her pieces do exactly that.
to gather. No occasion Vibrant colors, rich patterns,
BLAZER, BLOUSE, SKIRT, AND DRESS: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D. STYLING: JESSIE LIEBMAN. ALL OTHER IMAGERY COURTESY OF THE BRANDS.

necessary.” With a feminine details, flattering fits—

statement like that, rejuvenate your closet with a dose
you know Feste of playful versatility that will
has everything you brighten your look and your mood.
need to create the
most unforgettable
gathering for you and
your guests. Set the
scene effortlessly.

SHOWROOM
Erica Hanks, founder of Showroom,
knows what shoppers want: a modern
wardrobe for the working woman.
You can have it all with her expert edit
of established and emerging brands.

Loeffler Randall bag, $295.

DANIELLA SHEVEL
Designed to be seasonless,
comfortable, and functional,
Daniella Shevel’s sandals and
boots are made to last.

SHOPPING AT SHOPBAZAAR.COM
IS EASIER THAN EVER. SCAN THE
CODE WITH YOUR SMARTPHONE TO
a Shevel DISCOVER EXCLUSIVE NEW ARRIVALS
$625. & COVETED MUST-HAVES.
CARA CARA
Cofounded by a SHOP BAZAAR alum, NY-based Cara Cara
has quickly become the darling of the fashion world.
For the fall collection, Charlotte Rampling served as muse.
With new fabrications and silhouettes that nod
to French tailoring, each piece is a forever classic.

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 B E A U T Y
SKINCARE TREND

A SHOT for GLOWING SKIN

An INJECTABLE MOISTURIZER once only available
abroad is COMING SOON to a DERM’S OFFICE near you

F
or the past 23 years, Megan, 52, an on-air TV correspondent overstuffed features. “There’s been a shift away from extreme
in New York City, has entrusted her skin to dermatologist results,” Hausauer says, which bodes well for treatments that “tap
Macrene Alexiades. She credits Alexiades with every- into this idea of a refreshed complexion without looking differ-
thing from “curing” her acne ent or changed.” Skinvive is
to preserving her youthfulness also expected to cost less than

MODEL IMAGE: LARA JADE/TRUNK ARCHIVE; SYRINGE: STUDIOCASPER/ISTOCKPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES

throughout their relationship
with shots of neurotoxins $2,000 for biannual injections.
and the occasional light peel. Skinvive’s payoff is subtle
“I don’t try every treatment
that’s trending,” Megan says.
So when Alexiades invited
her to join Allergan’s clinical
trial for a new hyaluronic-acid power. At the six-month mark,
microdroplet injectable promis-
ing to smooth and hydrate skin,
Megan was all in. The filler she
tested—Skinvive by Juvéderm—
received FDA approval in Megan had pinpoint bruis-
May and will be rolling out to ing for a week after, but “I could
doctors’ offices by the end of
2023. Described as an inject-
able moisturizer, “it’s the first to
target the dermis and improve
skin quality,” says Alexiades,
an Allergan consultant and the rare, can occur. Some doctors
lead investigator on the study.
The first treatment, which manufactured using Vycross
involved multiple injections to
the cheeks, took about 10 high- and low-weight hyaluronic-
minutes and felt comparable
to Megan’s neurotoxin touch-
ups. In the weeks following, it may trigger the same type
her skin looked “glowy and
plump,” eliciting compliments your SKINCARE ROUTINE. has been reported with similar
from friends. Her pores seemed injectables like Volbella. There’s
smaller, and her acne scars were noticeably smoother. currently little data to support these concerns, though research
Skinvive works by placing hyaluronic acid directly into the continues. “So far, Skinvive doesn’t seem to have the same rate
dermis to attract and hold water, imparting a supple feel and of complication as the other Vycross fillers, but we do use it
glassy finish. It and similar products (so-called “skin boosters”) differently,” says Katie Beleznay, a dermatologist in Vancouver.
have been used for years across Canada, South Korea, and She and her practice partner have injected more than 7,000
Europe. “They replenish hydration, improve light reflection, syringes of Skinvive over the past five years and have seen only
and smooth the canvas of the skin without changing the one such reaction (bumps that appeared a few months after
structure of the face,” Amelia K. Hausauer, a dermatologist in treatment and eventually resolved on their own).
Campbell, California, explains. “Skin boosters allow you to look Megan, though, can’t wait for her next fix: “This is one treat-
like yourself, just more luminous.” ment where you can feel good about still looking like you when
It’s an alluring proposition for those who’ve grown tired of you come out.” HB

156 TEXT BY JOLENE EDGAR B A Z A A R

 In GOOD Company
WELCOME TO A NEW SEASON OF SHOP BAZAAR. Dedicated to delivering an unrivaled e-commerce experience, we’ve partnered with the buzziest brands
and game-changing retailers that will excite you. Discover sustainable everything from Maison De Mode, minimalist leather bags from WE-AR4, clean beauty
picks from The Detox Market, preloved designer accessories from LXR, elevated loungewear from The Sleep Code, and more feel-good must-haves.

THE DETOX MARKET

When it comes to curating clean
beauty, The Detox Market makes
no compromises. You can trust
that each and every product meets
rigorous standards before finding
a place on the shelves.
WE-AR4 BAGS: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D. STYLING: JESSIE LIEBMAN. ALL OTHER IMAGERY COURTESY OF THE BRANDS.

True Botanicals
At-Home Facialist Peel, $65.

WE-AR4
Known for its use of deadstock and upcycled materials,
WE-AR4 focuses on immediate sustainable impact. Inspired by
the perennial relevance of the ’70s, the newest collection is
defined by iconic silhouettes and a subdued color palette.

Vintage Louis Vuitton

Alma PM bag, $1395.
THE SLEEP CODE
Launched in 2020 by Geraldine and Tamar Gottesman,
SHOPPING AT SHOPBAZAAR.COM
a mother and daughter both experiencing sleep woes,
IS EASIER THAN EVER. SCAN THE
The Sleep Code will guide you to your most restful sleep CODE WITH YOUR SMARTPHONE TO
DISCOVER EXCLUSIVE NEW ARRIVALS
and invigorating morning rituals. With an edit of international
& COVETED MUST-HAVES.
brands spanning chic sleepwear, relaxing bath and body
products, and wellness essentials, you’ll discover exactly
what you need for your sweetest dreams.

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 B E A
EDITORS’ FAVORITES

RUNWAY EYES Rabanne EASY UPDO The tousled ’90s

is bringing its retro-futuristic supermodel updo is among
aesthetic to makeup with the most popular hair trends

3A
the introduction of 14 bold of 2023, with versions spotted
Eyephoria eye-shadow on celebrities like Nicola Peltz
palettes. The quads and duos Beckham and Anitta. This
feature a range of matte and versatile animal-patterned

CENTER: CLAUDIA & RALF PULMANNS/TRUNK ARCHIVE; LIPSTICK AND FOUNDATION: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D; ALL OTHER STILL LIFE: COURTESY THE BRANDS
shimmer shades, each housed Tigress hairpin from Deborah
in metallic circles, a nod to Pagani ($110) makes it easy
the brand’s signature paillettes. to get the look with minimal
Our favorite is No More effort and maximum style,
4
Drama ($38), featuring the even on thick, curly hair.
perfect warm neutrals to
take us through fall.

Dior L’Or de J’adore

($170), is the first release
from famed perfumer Francis
Kurkdjian as the brand’s
new perfume-creation
director. His take streamlines
J’adore’s classic floral bouquet
of ylang-ylang, rose, and
WORK OF ART jasmine, lending a modern
The Lancôme vibrancy for new generations.
x Louvre “Christian Dior was in love
collaboration will with flowers since he was
delight beauty a child with his mother,”
and art lovers Kurkdjian says. “Flowers are
alike. Our pick of the heart of J’adore, and
the four L’Absolu when you zoom in, get rid
Rouge Drama of the colors and facets
Matte lipsticks ($35 you don’t really need, you
each) is the creamy make it bolder.”
Celestial Rose,
which features CAVIAR DREAMS La Prairie
a depiction of has reformulated its beloved
the sculpture Skin Caviar Luxe Cream
2A

La Nymphe Echo ($595) with a new combination

by Lemoyne of Caviar Premier complex,
Saint Paul printed which encourages collagen
on its cap. production, and caviar
micronutrients that boost
FOUNDATION WITH BENEFITS We’re swapping sheer skin tints cellular function. The hydrating
for a bit more coverage post-summer, but Glossier’s long-wearing cream, which lifts and firms
3

Stretch Fluid Foundation ($34) offers the best of both worlds. Packed the face, comes in two
with active ingredients like squalane, rose-hip oil, and plankton versions—rich and velvety or
extract, the buildable formula boosts radiance and moisture, and the sheer and airy—depending on
gel-cream texture feels weightless. It’s also available in 32 shades what your skin needs as we
across five undertone groups for a seamless color match. head into drier weather. HB

158 TEXT BY TIFFANY DODSON B A Z A A R

 In GOOD Company
WELCOME TO A NEW SEASON OF SHOP BAZAAR. Dedicated to delivering an unrivaled e-commerce experience, we’ve partnered with the buzziest
brands and game-changing retailers that will excite you. Discover impeccably crafted shearling jackets from Arjé, unexpected beauty finds from
The Conservatory, head-turning dresses from Silvia Tcherassi, sensual scents from Dalegerard, tailored suiting from CO, and more lovely must-haves.

ARJÉ SILVIA TCHERASSI

Enter the world of Arjé and you’ll explore If you want to be the best
the most finely curated collection of home, dressed in every category, don an
art, and fashion. The in-house-designed elegant and statement-making
shearling jackets are an editor favorite, the Silvia Tcherassi creation.
perfect layering piece for unmatched style. You’ll command attention.
IMAGERY COURTESY OF THE BRANDS.

THE CONSERVATORY
Once you take a step inside The Conservatory, you’ll feel like
you’ve been transported to another time and place. We’re
especially excited about the new lineup of beauty from Santa
Maria Novella and intoxicating candles from D.S. & Durga.

SHOPPING AT SHOPBAZAAR.COM
IS EASIER THAN EVER. SCAN THE
CODE WITH YOUR SMARTPHONE TO
DISCOVER EXCLUSIVE NEW ARRIVALS
& COVETED MUST-HAVES.

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 ICONS

Photographs by MARIO SORRENTI

Styling by BEAT BOLLIGER
and EDWARD BOWLEG III

It has been said that WE LIVE in an ATTENTION ECONOMY, where POWER and INFLUENCE are
often determined by what GRABS and ARRESTS us most fully, whether it’s a 30-second TIKTOK
video, a stirring PERFORMANCE, a transporting PIECE of WRITING, or a call for JUSTICE.
That’s why where we choose to INVEST our ATTENTION is so vitally IMPORTANT. The individuals
in this year’s ICONS portfolio are people who COMMAND it. They CAPTIVATE us, CONNECT
us, ENTERTAIN us, MOVE us, stoke our OBSESSION, and INSPIRE us with the URGENCY they
bring to their WORK. They not only speak to this MOMENT, they are also helping to DEFINE it
and GIVE it MEANING. They’ve each made their MARKS—and some of them might be MAKING
HISTORY. But most IMPORTANTLY, they all understand what can happen when our EYES, HEARTS,
MINDS, and ENERGIES are all pointed in the same DIRECTION.
0 9 / 2 3 The following interviews and photo shoots were conducted before the SAG-AFTRA strike. 165
 DOJA CAT is reimagining POP STARDOM
in her own fearlessly PROVOCATIVE and
occasionally trippy IMAGE—and the REWARD
is in the long, strange JOURNEY
Interview by ANGIE MARTINEZ

here’s a case to be made that it was during the DC: I am taking more control over filming and photography.
pandemic that the internet finally subsumed us— I’m in this kind of chaotic place right now when it comes to fash-

ONE THIRTY-EIGHT PRODUCTIONS; SET DESIGN: PHILIPP HAEMMERLE. SPECIAL THANKS TO BUTTERCUP VENUES.
which is precisely when Amala Dlamini, a.k.a. Doja ion, where I’ve just been going into my closet and picking out the

HAIR: J STAY READY; MAKEUP: FRANK B FOR LOVESEEN; MANICURE: SACCIA TRINICE; PRODUCTION:
Cat, became a global pop star. Dlamini, 27, was most random, weird, not-fitting thing to mix with another thing
born in Los Angeles and spent time as a child that does not really fit. It’s like mashed potatoes. But I’m embracing that.
with her mother at an ashram led by jazz musician It’s a little punk. It’s experimental for sure. It’s very manic. But I am
Alice Coltrane. But she is also a member of the connected gener- going in a darker direction when it comes to visuals and fashion.
ation whose creative DNA is defined not by a record collection as I have a lot of pent-up feelings and anger, and I want to express
much as by a swirling torrent of songs, sounds, clips, and memes. it with beauty. I’ve been playing with a lot of prosthetics lately.
She has been releasing music for more than a decade, but her AM: The cat prosthetics you wore to the Met Gala were great. Was
mainstream breakthrough came in late 2019 with “Say So,” a masterful that your idea?
mash-up of disco, hip-hop, and funk vibes that became a left-field DC: Yes. I said, “I want to be a humanoid cat.”
sensation on the eve of lockdown, inspiring a TikTok dance chal- AM: You definitely push boundaries. Why do you think people
lenge. Since then, there have been more hits, tours, and a Grammy go crazy when you do things like shave your head or eyebrows?
for Best Pop Duo/Group Performance for “Kiss Me More,” a collab- DC: My theory is that if someone has never met me in real life,
oration with SZA off 2021’s Planet Her. In June, she released then, subconsciously, I’m not real to them. So when people become
“Attention,” the first single from her new album, Scarlet, which will engaged with someone they don’t even know on the internet,
be accompanied by her first arena tour this fall. Dlamini sat down they kind of take ownership over that person. They think that
with rap-radio legend and media entrepreneur Angie Martinez to person belongs to them in some sense. And when that person
discuss art, fame, and finding your way—on Instagram and IRL. changes drastically, there is a shock response that is almost
uncontrollable.…I’ve accepted that that’s what happens. So I put
ANGIE MARTINEZ: An icon by definition is “a person or a thing my wigs on and take them off. I shave my head or my eyebrows.
regarded as a representative symbol or as worthy of veneration.” I have all the freedom in the world.
Do you see yourself as worthy of veneration? AM: What do you imagine is next for you?
DOJA CAT: I don’t. I think I deserve love and respect from the people DC: There are other kinds of projects I want to branch out into.
that I love and respect back—and I guess respect means different I want to make clothing, dabble in makeup. I want to explore acting.
things to some people. I put myself out there on social media and AM: Do you envision acting becoming a big part of your career?
TV. I shoot my image out onto these screens. But I don’t really put DC: I would love to do movies that I believe in. I would have to stop
myself out there in real life. I don’t go to clubs. I stick to creating. the music for a minute. But I would be down to immerse myself
AM: Do you get inspiration from other people and their energy? in acting for a certain period of time. I love comedies and action
DC: I love positive feedback. I appreciate when people speak up for films. I want to learn martial arts and be in a film like John Wick.
someone who is getting bullied or attacked by internet trolls.… Some AM: Is it true that you want to do stand-up?
of the most moving moments for me have been when my fans have DC: It’s something I’ve definitely considered. I actually went onstage
stood up for me or for other people. That’s fighting for something recently with Craig Robinson. He’ll get on a piano and just play
real. I really appreciate that because people like to shit-talk. songs, but he’ll do it in his own Craig Robinson, funny-ass way.
AM: I love the new single, “Attention.” You get in your rap bag. I went up onstage and sang with him at a comedy club. It was
DC: It’s kind of an intro to what’s to come. This new album is super low-key. I was there with one of my boyfriends.
more introspective, but I’m not leaning so hard into that to where AM: “One of my boyfriends” is funny. Do you create room for
it becomes boring. So I want to give stories and bops. It’s a nice love in your life?
mixture of both. I think this project is a really fun canvas for me DC: I love love. I’m possibly a serial dater. I definitely have had that
to play with my rap skills and talk about what’s going on in my in me a little bit. But right now I’m in a different place in my life
life. But I’m not abandoning who I was and what I know about where I am very committed and very much in love in a different
pop and singing and that aspect of music. way than before. I think I’ve evolved. I’m learning to love myself,
AM: You’re a very visual artist too. How big of a role does imagery so the way that I love other people is very different. I don’t feel like
play in what you do, especially with fashion? a lost little teen. I feel like a woman who is coming into her own. HB

166 B A Z A A R
 “I put myself OUT THERE
on SOCIAL MEDIA and TV.
I shoot my image out onto
these SCREENS. But I don’t
really put myself out there
in REAL LIFE.”
DOJA CAT
RAPPER AND SINGER

Dress, DIOTIMA. Earrings,

CARTIER. Stud earrings,
Doja Cat’s own. Rings,
PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER.
 “As I came into MYSELF
as a young BLACK WOMAN,
I REALIZED there’s a whole
type of person and HUMAN
EXPERIENCE that is just
not ON-SCREEN. That really
pushed me toward what I do
now, which is tell STORIES
about PEOPLE you don’t
often see stories about.”
NIA DACOSTA
WRITER AND DIRECTOR
 “I’ve been LIVING in
service of certain IDEAS—
the status quo—trying to
EXPLAIN myself constantly
and CREATE a palatable
NARRATIVE of what
I am. And I don’t WANT
to do that.”
GRETA LEE
ACTRESS

This page: Sweater and skirt, BOTTEGA

VENETA. Opposite page: Blazer, FEAR OF GOD.
Trousers, PROENZA SCHOULER.
“I look BACK at when I first
came out, and it was so
SCARY and PERSONAL.
Then when I told the
WORLD, it all became this
SYMBOL. I was just 12!
But as I got OLDER,
I realized that I’ve become a
part of my COMMUNITY
in a way that not a
lot of PEOPLE can
say they have.”
ZAYA WADE
MODEL AND ACTIVIST

This page: Jacket, top, skirt, and shoes,

MIU MIU; shopBAZAAR.com . Rings,
PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER. Opposite page,
on Jones (left): Suit, CHUKS COLLINS.
Shirt, WINNIE NEW YORK. On Pearson: Shirt,
D’IYANU. Pants, CHUKS COLLINS. Belt,
BROOKS BROTHERS. Jewelry, his own.
 “I don’t LOOK like the other ELECTED OFFICIALS in the building.
In fact, I was told that I should CUT my HAIR and ASSIMILATE.
But I know that we have to REPRESENT a new model of what
LEGISLATORS can LOOK LIKE.”
JUSTIN JONES
TENNESSEE STATE REPRESENTATIVE

“I serve in a PEOPLE-POWERED, PEOPLE-FIRST way, because that’s the

only way I KNOW how to SERVE. I never thought of myself as SEPARATE
from being an activist. I’m an ACTIVIST dash LEGISLATOR. I take care of
my community as PASSIONATELY as I did before I ever had a TITLE.”
JUSTIN J. PEARSON
TENNESSEE STATE REPRESENTATIVE
 “I LOVE really HARD,
and I love without APOLOGY.”
KENDALL JENNER
MODEL

Parka, bodysuit, and skirt,

MARC JACOBS.
 KENDALL JENNER is a member of one of
the most documented SISTERHOODS on the planet.
But she has carved out a place for herself in FASHION—
and away from it all—that’s very much her OWN.
Story by KAITLYN GREENIDGE

endall Jenner is a Scorpio. And it’s with typical of a new generation of models—many of them, like her, either born
Scorpio reserve that Jenner and I don’t discuss into privilege or nepo-baby adjacent—using social media to expand
that fact until nearly the end of our time together. their personal brands by offering glimpses of their private lives.
But the qualities ascribed to the sign weave She now has more than 292 million followers on Instagram and
throughout our conversation. Jenner speaks often upwards of five million on TikTok. And Jenner works. Amid her
of change and evolution. “I feel like I am coming perpetually stacked slate of Kardashians and runway and campaign
HAIR: TOMO JIDAI; MAKEUP: FRANK B; MANICURE: LISA JACHNO; PRODUCTION:

into my womanhood,” she tells me, “and having so many strong obligations, she also has her own tequila brand, 818, and she recently
women around me has helped shape my sense of worth.” announced a new partnership with L’Oréal Paris.
CALUM WALSH FOR NORTH SIX; SET DESIGN: PHILIPP HAEMMERLE

Jenner, 27, is in a starkly white room with shelves full of art While the Kardashian machine undoubtedly gave her a leg
books and novels behind her. She’s dressed casually in a black tank, up, she has diligently found ways of moving between the realms
her hair pulled back, her skin dewy. She looks as if she’s just come of reality TV and ultrahigh fashion without being subsumed by
from a hike or a trip to the dog run, the platonic ideal of how one either. “I think when things appear to come very easily to people,
might look lounging around the house. When she speaks, it’s with there’s a lot of criticism,” says casting director (and Harper’s Bazaar
the self-awareness of someone who has spent her entire adult life contributing editor) Anita Bitton, who cast Jenner in her first Marc
in front of a camera. She often qualifies what she’s saying with how Jacobs show in 2014. “But in order to maintain all of that stuff,
it must come off. “I probably sound so L.A.,” she says at one point. there’s a certain degree of rigor that’s involved, and Kendall has
Later: “I probably sound corny.” It reads less as nervousness than as that rigor,” explains Bitton. “Kendall Jenner is her own person.”
someone who is used to being observed, cutting off the observer “I feel really balanced right now,” Jenner says. “I started my
at the pass, a reminder that she knows how others might try to fit therapy journey a year and a half ago. I meet with my therapist
her into a narrative. Even as she is looked at, she is looking back. once a week, so every week I’m learning something new. I’m
Jenner’s family has been at the vanguard of global popular constantly evolving and just excited to do that.”
culture since Keeping Up With the Kardashians premiered in 2007. This past spring, Jenner’s sister Kim famously trolled her
The show, which aired for 14 years on E!, moved last year to Hulu, with a T-shirt emblazoned with the phrase “Kendall Starting Five,”
where it was rechristened The Kardashians. Jenner was 11 when it for her penchant for dating pro basketball players. The internet
first aired, positioned early on as the kid sister involved in whole- has also exploded over her rumored relationship with Bad Bunny.
some scrapes with younger sibling Kylie, in contrast to the inside It’s an aspect of Jenner’s life that, like most things, has had to play
view of their older sisters’ lives as they worked to build their brand out in full view, but it’s also one she, unsurprisingly, holds sacred.
and fame. But Jenner remembers her childhood as a place with “I love really hard, and I love without apology,” she says. “I don’t
spaces of sanctuary. “I just kind of kept to myself,” she says. “I loved like goodbyes, and I will fight to not have to say goodbye. I will
hiding out in my room and doing my own thing or riding my horses.” always fight for relationships. I’ve been that way since I was little,
“She’s always been very definite about who she was,” her although I was shy and sometimes very closed off,” she continues.
mother, Kris Jenner, says. “Her superpower is knowing when it’s “I don’t give up on anything. Some people aren’t willing to meet
too much or when it’s not enough.…She’s a lot smarter at that than me at that level. But that’s okay. I’d rather do that than shut myself
I am, and she kind of taught me a thing or two about it.” off to something and not give it a proper chance.”
Jenner’s ability to maintain a sense of mystique has been I ask Jenner if she’s familiar with the astrological lore around
crucial to her success in fashion, where she is now one of the most Scorpios, who are said to be so mysterious because they are asso-
in-demand models. Essential to the job is a persona that hints at ciated with not one but three symbols: the scorpion, the stereotypical
knowability while maintaining a sense of mystery, allowing viewers vengeful stinger; the eagle, which uses Scorpios’ capacity for hard
to construct their own story—the dance of imagination that makes work to better their world; and the phoenix, whose capacity for
up what we understand to be glamour. deep love leads to higher understanding. The idea is that Scorpios
“It’s not always the easiest industry to be in,” Jenner says. “It embody all of these archetypes at certain points, cycling through
can be really cutthroat and intense sometimes.” But the fashion them, not necessarily in a linear manner. For Jenner, it’s yet another
business now is radically different from the one Jenner entered narrative to negotiate. “My affection for people and my empathy
nearly a decade ago. Her rise mirrors shifts in how brands and have only grown,” she says, smiling. “My favorite part of getting
careers are made—and where power lies. Jenner was at the forefront older is the wisdom and knowledge.” HB

0 9 / 2 3 173
 “I work really HARD
on REWRITING the
NARRATIVE of what it
means to be FEMININE
in my CHOREOGRAPHY.
Femininity is STRENGTH
and OWNING your
SEXUALITY.”
PARRIS GOEBEL
CHOREOGRAPHER AND
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
 “As a MALE PRINCIPAL
DANCER, I play fairy-tale
PRINCES. I’m desperate to
see QUEER stories being
told in the LANGUAGE of
CLASSICAL BALLET.
If no one’s going to MAKE
that ballet for me to DANCE,
then I will make it for
OTHERS to dance.”
JAMES WHITESIDE
DANCER, DRAG PERFORMER, MUSICIAN,
AND CHOREOGRAPHER

This page: Briefs, 2(X)IST. Boots, RICK

OWENS. Opposite page: Trench coat and
swimsuit, GUCCI. Earrings, CARTIER.
Ring, PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER.
 PAUL MESCAL was CATAPULTED to the
TOP of HOLLYWOOD’S A-LIST and became an
INTERNET OBSESSION along the way. But he’s still
figuring out WHAT HE WANTS from all of it.
Story by ANDREA CUTTLER

aul Mescal is showing me his short shorts. From TV show. It was like a two-line self-audition. I was going in for
his hotel room in Morocco, where he’s currently some fucking ridiculous dialogue.”
filming Gladiator 2, Ridley Scott’s highly anticipated “There’s only so much acting a person can do,” says Andrew
sequel to his 2000 Oscar-winning film, the 27- Scott, Fleabag’s “hot priest” and Mescal’s costar in the upcoming
year-old Irish actor indulges me when I ask if he’s film Strangers, Andrew Haigh’s loose adaptation of the 1987 Taichi
got a favorite pair. Yamada novel of the same name. “I believe who you are always

GROOMING: JOSH KNIGHT FOR HORACE; PRODUCTION: HOLMES PRODUCTION;

“This is thrilling to me,” he says. “I love it. Where’s my favorite comes through in some way, your attitude toward something.
pair?” he asks, nearly knocking over his chair to find them. “I don’t And that’s what I think he has: just this incredible, gentle, intel-

SET DESIGN: EMMA ROACH. SPECIAL THANKS TO HOXTON DOCKS.

know how I would go about my summer if I didn’t have these. ligent Irish soul.” He continues, “It sounds like an unusual thing
I don’t do well in the heat,” he says, holding up a black pair with to say, that somebody who’s at [his] stage of life is just interested
three white stripes down each side. They’re O’Neills, an Irish brand in creating a body of work, but he really, genuinely is.”
of Gaelic football shorts, he tells me. During his recent West End Mescal, who received his first Oscar nod earlier this year for
run in A Streetcar Named Desire, fans lined up regularly at the stage his portrayal of a young father in Charlotte Wells’s Aftersun,
door to catch a glimpse of the actor heading out for a post-matinee gravitates toward cerebral, character-driven projects without so
run in thigh-grazing ’80s-style shorts. He grins and says, “[O’Neills] much as a whiff of “fucking ridiculous dialogue.” This fall, he’ll
are going to get great fuckin’ airtime out of this.” star in director Garth Davis’s adaptation of Iain Reid’s book Foe,
Mescal is mostly accepting of the attention that followed opposite Saoirse Ronan. Set in 2065 in the rural Midwest, the
his breakout role in Hulu’s adaptation of Sally Rooney’s Normal film is a science-fiction mind bender, though genre is secondary
People three years ago and his subsequent ascent to stardom. The to its rumination on long-term relationships. Mescal plays Junior,
series—hailed for its tender depiction of a young relationship, a farmer who is offered a chance to live in space while his wife,
including its hyperrealistic sex scenes—streamed into homes Hen (played by Ronan), stays at home with an AI version of him.
during the spring of 2020, reaching an audience that was, after “The feeling of being in a relationship and being in love, to me,
weeks of Covid lockdowns, pent up. Mescal received an Emmy sometimes can feel quite like a horse with blinders on. That’s
nomination for his soulful portrayal of Connell, and he (as well such a wonderful feeling,” Mescal says. “The work in this film
as that thin silver chain his character wore) became the subject was finding out what it’s like to be in a tired relationship.
of the internet’s unhinged lust. “If I’m going to make TV shows That’s not a sensation I’m familiar with.”
like Normal People, there’s going to be an appetite from the world,” Mescal has several projects currently in the works, including
he says of the public’s interest in his personal life. “Eighty percent Richard Linklater’s decades-spanning adaptation of Stephen
of that is palatable. And then 20 percent of it is devastating.” Sondheim’s Merrily We Roll Along. With these and the release of
The devastating part may be in reference to his relationship Gladiator 2 next year, Mescal is on the precipice of catapulting
(and breakup) with musician Phoebe Bridgers, which has been into another stratum of fame and cementing his status among
tabloid and TikTok fodder for the better part of the past three the next generation’s great film talents. The dedication, Ronan
years. “The stuff that hurts is the personal stuff. It’s nobody else’s says, has always been there. “The first time I saw Paul act was in
business and should never be commented on because it’s indecent. a commercial for Denny’s sausages in Ireland,” Ronan recalls.
And it’s unkind,” he says. “Honest answer, it makes me angry.…It’s “He’ll kill me for mentioning it, but—I’m not actually joking—that
the entitlement to the information that people expect that just was the first time I went, ‘Oh, who’s that guy?’ He’s really good.”
drives me fucking mad.” The internet virality, the gossip, the red carpets, even the
Mescal has been enmeshed in the Hollywood machine for hot streak of roles—Mescal knows that so much of it is fleeting.
a few short years. He seems wary of its artifice. He hasn’t tweeted “I feel like the game that I’m playing now is a young person’s
since 2020 and has no other public-facing social-media accounts, game,” he says. “And I’m young, but I want to be able to do this
no liquor line to shill, no “brand” he’s intent on building. After all the time.”
attending drama school at the Lir Academy in Dublin, he worked The stuff that lasts is what keeps him hooked. “I have a feeling
in theater for two years, partly because he found auditioning for that when I’m 50, if I’m still lucky to be acting, I will look back
on-screen roles to be “mortifying.” “I didn’t buy into what on the personal relationships that I’ve built and be like, ‘Fuck,
I was having to say,” he offers. “I remember auditioning for some that was the thing.’ ” HB

176 B A Z A A R
 “I feel like the GAME
that I’m PLAYING now
is a YOUNG PERSON’s
game. And I’m young,
but I WANT to be able to
do this ALL the TIME.”
PAUL MESCAL
ACTOR

Tank top, pants, and booties, GUCCI. Earring

and necklace, CARTIER JUSTE UN CLOU.
 “My WORK is PROPELLED
by the idea of SILENCES and
what it looks like to LEAN into
DISCOMFORT and into the
SPACES that we are AFRAID
to TALK about. We only grow
and EVOLVE when we’re
UNCOMFORTABLE.”
LEILA MOTTLEY
WRITER
 “Today, EXISTING as an
ARTIST is my RESISTANCE.
It’s my whole LIFE.… When
you are born AGAINST
the CURRENT, you have
a lot of MUSCLES
to SWIM against it.”
GOLSHIFTEH FARAHANI
ACTRESS

This page: Hooded dress, ALAÏA. Earrings,

CLASH DE CARTIER. Bracelet, PANTHÈRE
DE CARTIER. Opposite page: Gown with belt
and biker boots, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN.
 SINGER AND ACTRESS
TEYANA TAYLOR
it’s PREPARATION.”
in life. I’ve LEARNED
to take your L’s not as a

It’s not PUNISHMENT,

LOSS but as a LESSON.
“I don’t REGRET anything

FOR NIA DaCOSTA AND GOLSHIFTEH FARAHANI, HAIR: LUKE HERSHESON FOR HERSHESONS; BRAIDING (DaCOSTA): MURIEL COLE; MAKEUP: LISA BUTLER FOR CHANEL BEAUTY; MANICURES: SYLVIE MACMILLAN
FOR CHANEL LE VERNIS; PRODUCTION: HOLMES PRODUCTION; SET DESIGN: EMMA ROACH. SPECIAL THANKS TO HOXTON DOCKS. FOR GRETA LEE AND LEILA MOTTLEY, HAIR: TOMO JIDAI FOR ORIBE; MAKEUP: FRANK
B FOR LOVESEEN; MANICURES: LISA JACHNO FOR DIOR VERNIS; PRODUCTION: CALUM WALSH FOR NORTH SIX; SET DESIGN: PHILIPP HAEMMERLE. FOR ZAYA WADE, JUSTIN JONES, JUSTIN J. PEARSON, AND PARRIS
GOEBEL, HAIR: TOMO JIDAI FOR ORIBE; MAKEUP: FRANK B FOR LOVESEEN; MANICURES: LISA JACHNO FOR CHANEL LE VERNIS; PRODUCTION: ONE THIRTY-EIGHT PRODUCTIONS; SET DESIGN: PHILIPP HAEMMERLE.
SPECIAL THANKS TO BUTTERCUP VENUES. FOR JAMES WHITESIDE, TEYANA TAYLOR, AND ANGEL REESE, HAIR: TOMO JIDAI FOR ORIBE; MAKEUP: FRANK B FOR LOVESEEN; MANICURES: HONEY FOR UN/DN LAQR;
PRODUCTION: KATIE FASH AND LAYLA NÉMÉJANSKI; SET DESIGN: PHILIPP HAEMMERLE. FOR MORE SHOPPING INFORMATION, GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS. = BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM
This page: Bomber, BALENCIAGA. Cropped knit, “I’ve always been
PRADA. Jeans, WILLY CHAVARRIA. Earrings,
CLASH DE CARTIER. Opposite page: Top, CONFIDENT. I am
RICK OWENS. Hoop earrings, CARTIER JUSTE
UN CLOU. Stud earrings, Taylor’s own.
UNAPOLOGETIC. I stay
Ring, PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER. firm on what I BELIEVE
in, and, being a BLACK
WOMAN, I can do whatever
I put my MIND to.”
ANGEL REESE
BASKETBALL PLAYER
 This page: Kimono jacket and skirt,
GIVENCHY. Boots, BALENCIAGA.
Opposite page: Jacket and skirt, PRADA.

STEPPING Out
This season is all about embracing a REFINED SENSE of PLAY in
statement OUTERWEAR, easy TAILORING, and sumptuous LAYERS
rendered in rich TEXTURES, bold REDS, and buttery LEATHER
Photographs by AMY TROOST
Styling by CAROLINE NEWELL

182 B A Z A A R
Coat and trousers, HERMÈS. Bags,
LEMAIRE. Boots, FERRAGAMO.
 Coat, BOTTEGA VENETA.
Boots, VALENTINO GARAVANI.
 This page: Jacket, shirt, and skirt, VALENTINO.
Tie and boots, VALENTINO GARAVANI. Opposite
page: Jumpsuit, FENDI. Boots, FERRAGAMO.
Coat, top, and trousers, MAX MARA.
Bag, BOTTEGA VENETA.
 Dress, LOEWE. Shoes,
CHURCH’S. Socks, FALKE.
 This page: Tops and collar, THE ROW.
Opposite page: Coat, blouse, and tie, DIOR.
Boots, FERRAGAMO. Socks, FALKE.
 This page: Coat, RALPH LAUREN
COLLECTION. Belt, MAX MARA. Opposite
page: Coat and boots, FERRAGAMO.

MODEL: JEANNE CADIEU; HAIR: TSUKI FOR

REDKEN; MAKEUP: DICK PAGE; MANICURE: HONEY
FOR UN/DN LAQR; CASTING: ANITA BITTON AT
THE ESTABLISHMENT; PRODUCTION: PONY
PROJECTS. FOR MORE SHOPPING INFORMATION,
GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS.
 FORMAL
Qualities
194 B A Z A A R
 This page: Dress and bracelets, GIORGIO ARMANI. Opposite page, on left: Shirt and skirt, VALENTINO.
Reflection de Cartier earrings and ring, CARTIER. Necklace, CARTIER HIGH JEWELRY.
On right: Coat, dress, and sandals, CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE. Fantina earrings, POMELLATO.

Modern TWISTS on classic SILHOUETTES.

Rich TEXTURES and TONES. Bold ACCESSORIES.
When it comes to EVENINGWEAR this season,
the MAGIC is all in the EXQUISITE DETAILS.
Photographs by GABRIEL MOSES
Styling by EDWARD BOWLEG III

0 9 / 2 3 195
This page: Blouse and skirt, BALENCIAGA.
Earrings, ALEXIS BITTAR. Opposite page,
on left: Cape jacket, jumpsuit, clutch, and
heels, MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION;
shopBAZAAR.com . Lucendi earrings,
Ninfe necklace, and Ode à L’amour
ring from the Le Grand Tour collection,
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS. On right: Coat,
bag, and shoes, FERRAGAMO. Earrings,
SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY
VACCARELLO. Gloves, AGNELLE.
 This page, on left: Trench coat, ALAÏA. Earrings and necklace, KENNETH JAY LANE. Bag, MARK CROSS. Gloves,
CAUSSE. On right: Coat, ANN DEMEULEMEESTER. Earrings, KENNETH JAY LANE. Opposite page, on left: Coat
and skirt, GUCCI. Clip earrings, KENNETH JAY LANE. Cocktail ring, SWAROVSKI. Bag, DENTRO. Gloves, AGNELLE.
Pumps, GIANVITO ROSSI; shopBAZAAR.com . On right: Top and pants, FENDI. Necklace and earring set, with
ring from the Haute Joaillerie Collection, CHOPARD. Bag, DENTRO. Gloves, CAUSSE. Sandals, GIANVITO ROSSI.
 This page: Minidress and bag, VERSACE. Earrings, SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO.
Bangle, bracelet, and cuff, KENNETH JAY LANE. Cocktail ring, SWAROVSKI. Opposite page: Coat, bag, and
shoes, FERRAGAMO. Earrings, SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO. Gloves, AGNELLE.
 This page: Jacket, top, skirt, earrings, cuffs, and
minaudière, SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY
VACCARELLO. Cocktail ring, SWAROVSKI.
Gloves, CAUSSE. Opposite page, on left:
Coat, DOLCE & GABBANA. Vintage earrings
and collar necklace, KENNETH JAY LANE.
Bag, TANNER KROLLE. Gloves, AGNELLE;
shopBAZAAR.com . Boots, BALLY. On right:
Jacket and skirt, MOSCHINO. Camisole, ONLY
HEARTS. Serpenti earrings, BULGARI HIGH
JEWELRY. Gloves, ALAÏA. Heels, BALLY.

MODELS: ALAY DENG AND ABÉNY NHIAL;

HAIR: YANN TURCHI FOR SHEAMOISTURE;
MAKEUP: AURORE GIBRIEN FOR DIOR BEAUTY;
MANICURES: HANAÉ GOUMRI FOR MANUCURIST;
CASTING: ANITA BITTON AT THE ESTABLISHMENT;
PRODUCTION: FARAGO PROJECTS; SET DESIGN:
SATI LEONNE FAULKS. FOR MORE SHOPPING
INFORMATION, GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS.
= BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM
 The REBIRTH
of
FERRAGAMO designer
MAXIMILIAN DAVIS is
reinvigorating the ITALIAN HOUSE
by drawing on the EXPERIMENTAL

GROOMING: CHIARA GUIZZETTI

SPIRIT of LONDON CLUB
CULTURE, his own CARIBBEAN
HERITAGE, and a bold NEW
PERSPECTIVE on ELEGANCE
Story by TARA GONZALEZ
Photograph by JEANO EDWARDS

aximilian Davis was in a music video. London four years earlier from Manchester, where he grew up
I learned this while talking to the singer in a close-knit family with Trinidadian and Jamaican roots. Fashion
Kelela, a friend of his, about the period when played a big role in his life early on: His mother had been a
they first met several years ago outside model, his father and one of his older sisters had studied fashion
of an East London club night called PDA, design, and his grandmother taught him to sew.
which was a gathering place for kids from The video in question was for Kelela’s song “LMK” and was
fashion and art school looking to let loose in a sea of their own. set in a trippy club. “It was a party theme,” Kelela explains.
It was 2017, and at the time, Davis, who is now creative director It took me two watches to catch Davis at the 1:33 mark. There
at Ferragamo, was one of them. He had just graduated from the he is off to Kelela’s right, dressed in a black tank and a cropped
London College of Fashion and had a job as a junior designer yellow leather jacket tie-dyed like a heat map. He’s leaning
with Grace Wales Bonner, whom he’d gotten to know while against a wall illuminated with neon lights. With its arched
they both worked at Selfridges department store. He’d moved to ceiling and insulated walls, the room they’re in looks more like ➤

204 B A Z A A R
Clothing and accessories, Davis’s own.
a spaceship than a club, but Davis appears right at home. When celebs wear Ferragamo right now, it’s enough to anoint
“ W hen I was younger and I moved to London, I was them style stars. For the world premiere of Black Panther: Wakanda
really into clubbing and I really enjoyed music as a sense of Forever in Los Angeles last fall, Michaela Coel made headlines in
freedom,” Davis tells me on a call from Ferragamo’s headquar- a custom crystal-covered hooded gown inspired by looks on Davis’s
ters in Florence, Italy. “Clubbing really got people together. It Spring 2023 runway. Beyoncé has worn a handful of one-of-a-kind
was where we would experience music and feel music, but it was Ferragamo looks created by Davis for her blockbuster Renaissance
also an area where we could see how people were dressing and tour, like a ruched silver dress with a long train, matching thigh-
what the trends were. That was a starting point for me. That is high boots, and long gloves. And in May, Kylie Jenner stepped out
how I really started to create my team of people around me—just in Paris wearing a Ferragamo draped-scarf minidress, accessorized
from going out.” with a palm-size pouch with a circular metal handle held by just
It’s that kind of kinetic, communal energy that Davis, now three fingers, sending TikTok into a frenzy.
28, has brought to Ferragamo. Since his appointment last year, Davis’s Spring 2023 collection concluded with a trio of models
he has injected a new vitality into the 96-year-old house, known in sheer goddess dresses that somehow covered nothing and
primarily for its shoes and leather goods, by drawing upon his everything, the fabric at the bottom gathering like thick brush-
love of tailoring as well as his own background, incorporating the strokes in a 17th-century painting. Paloma Elsesser wore one to
mix of freedom and formality he found in the London club scene the Cannes Film Festival in May. “That dress perfectly encapsulates
and the Caribbean customs and cultural traditions he was all the things Max does well,” Elsesser says. “There’s sensuality
surrounded by as a child. and femininity, and there’s also power. I felt very strong. I felt like
Davis’s Ferragamo feels at once fresh and familiar—tantalizing I could be in any room in that outfit.”
enough to court new customers but refined enough to keep the When I ask Kelela about all of the Ferragamo looks she has
long-standing ones coming back. For his first collection, Spring worn, including a structural two-button black blazer dress and
2023, he showed a deep-red look made of sparkling crystal- a black miniskirt suit with a bold red stripe down the center,
embellished separates, its turtleneck top as sheer as the slinky black she echoes that sentiment: “Ferragamo makes you feel badass!
crystal bra that would follow, worn with high-waisted trousers. There’s a maturity to it,” she explains. “And there’s a lot of sexy
The Fall 2023 collection featured exquisite tailoring too, plus in that. I think everybody would like to feel that way every once
tight ruched lamé dresses that clung to the body and voluptuous in a while.”

COURTESY FERRAGAMO
furry overcoats. It’s what Davis refers to as a combination of
“elegance and ease” in his clothes that he says comes from his t’s the kind of elevated buzz that Ferragamo’s CEO, Marco
Caribbean heritage. “Especially, the way that people would live Gobbetti, no doubt had in mind when he surprised the
in the Caribbean was just very at peace; there was no rush to do fashion world in March of last year with his selection
anything,” he explains. “Everything was at a more natural pace. It of Davis as creative director. It was Gobbetti’s first big
was a more relaxed way of living. When I moved to Italy, I found move to help breathe new life into the luxury brand
that here too. There’s an effortlessness.” after arriving from Burberry in early 2022. But while
The interplay, Davis offers, is all about instilling a kind of Davis—just a few years removed from fashion school—may have
confidence in the wearer. “I always believe that color and fabrication been a dark-horse pick, fashion editors and industry insiders
and structure can control people’s moods,” he says. “In each collec- were already well aware of his successful eponymous label,
tion, I’ve always referenced and gone into the archive and always Maximilian, which he started in 2020. With slinky leather sepa-
tried to use Ferragamo’s history as a starting point for the brand. rates and sharp harlequin halter tops, Davis presented a focus on
But naturally, my aesthetic, my DNA, always comes out, whether tailoring that was at once youthful and polished—what Gobbetti
that’s the tailoring or the focus on elegance and sophistication—but referred to in Davis’s announcement as a mix of “elegance” and
in terms of Black elegance and Blackness.” “refined sensuality.” In its two-year existence, Maximilian, which
While red carpets and paparazzi photos today have become Davis put on hiatus when he joined Ferragamo, amassed a glit-
less of a runway for personal style and more of a showcase for tery, enthusiastic following that included Rihanna, Dua Lipa,
brand deals and contracts, Davis has quickly become a mainstay and Kim Kardashian.
in that arena too. The hope was that Davis could bring some of that currency
to Ferragamo. While the label remained in demand with older
customers, most younger ones associated it primarily with the

“My AESTHETIC, my DNA,

Varina, a round-toe ballet flat adorned with a tonal grosgrain
bow and gold metal plate. Davis says he previously thought of
Ferragamo as simply a shoe brand that his mother liked. “It’s that
always comes out, whether rawness and that boldness and that kind of energy from the street,”

that’s the TAILORING

he says. “I think that’s what was missing.”
What is notably missing now is the Salvatore in the Ferragamo

or the focus on ELEGANCE

logo, which has been recast in a new all-caps typeface instead of
the famous handwritten script signature of the house’s founder.

and SOPHISTICATION.”
Salvatore Ferragamo was born in 1898 in the village of Bonito,
➤
in the Campania region of Italy. He designed his first pair of

206 B A Z A A R
 Top row: Spring 2023;
bottom row: Fall 2023

0 9 / 2 3 207
2A

3A
3

BACKGRID; DAVE BENETT/GETTY IMAGES FOR CONDÉ NAST; GILBERT FLORES/VARIETY VIA GETTY IMAGES; DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/GETTY IMAGES FOR TIFFANY & CO.
CENTER: DANIELE VENTURELLI/GETTY IMAGES FOR FERRAGAMO. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE FOR PARKWOOD (2); THEREALSPW/
Center: Kelela and Davis
backstage at Ferragamo’s
Fall 2023 show. Clockwise
from top left: Beyoncé in
custom Ferragamo designs
during the Renaissance
World Tour in Amsterdam;
Kylie Jenner in Paris;
Paloma Elsesser at a
Cannes Film Festival party;
Michaela Coel at the world
premiere of Black Panther:
Wakanda Forever in Los
Angeles; Tracee Ellis Ross
in a Fall 2023 look at
the Tiffany & Co. flagship
reopening in New York.

“There’s
sensuality and
FEMININITY,
and there’s also
POWER.”
PALOMA ELSESSER
 “I want to MAKE people Manchester who was a tailor. “I spent my whole summer holidays
learning how to construct and tailor and cut a jacket,” he says.
FEEL a certain way; For Davis, everything always comes back to family. “I’m
thinking about the way my mother would want to dress and the
I don’t want to try to way that my sisters would want to dress,” he says. “My mother
would want to wear tailoring, and my sister would want to wear
FORCE people to LOOK a miniskirt. And that’s really how I can put together some of the
looks and the kind of silhouettes for the collections. It’s designing
a certain WAY.” for a family of people.”
Davis’s chosen family—the group of creatives he met while
partying in London—has also remained in close proximity. Casting
director Mischa Notcutt (who introduced him to Kelela) and stylist
shoes at the age of nine, after discovering that his family couldn’t Ibrahim Kamara, both of whom collaborated with Davis on his
afford a white pair for the communion of one of his sisters. He Maximilian shows and lookbooks, have worked with him at
made them himself with borrowed canvas and thread. By the Ferragamo, as have makeup artist Virginie Moreira and photog-
time Ferragamo was 11, he was training with a shoemaker in rapher Rafael Pavarotti—all friends from his PDA club period.
Naples. He opened his own shop at 13. Three years later, he “I feel that they’re part of the reason that I got noticed by the
joined his older brothers in the United States, where, after briefly industry and Ferragamo,” Davis says. “They’re people that I wouldn’t
working in a shoe factory in Boston, he settled with them in ever want to leave behind.”
Santa Barbara, California. “It was a real community in London of people of color who
Ferragamo eventually went to Los Angeles, where he opened come from very different backgrounds,” says Kamara, now editor
the Hollywood Boot Shop in 1923, designing footwear for silent in chief of Dazed and art and image director at Off-White. “We
films like The Ten Commandments (1923), King of Kings (1927), and had similar stories because we were outsiders. We found each
Sadie Thompson (1928). He later became known as “the Shoemaker other through the clubs. The beautiful thing about PDA is that
to the Stars,” with a clientele that included Joan Crawford, Greta we are all still friends. We are all still together. It was a place
Garbo, and Judy Garland. Ferragamo made the four-inch Viatica where you could really be yourself and believe in yourself,” he
pump favored by Marilyn Monroe, who wore them on-screen in explains. “You always knew everyone there would go on and do
Some Like It Hot (1959). After Audrey Hepburn chose to wear a greater things. And so many people are now doing things that
pair of his black suede slip-on loafers for her beatnik dance scene they wanted to do.”
in Funny Face (1957), the shoe became an instant obsession. For Davis’s first Ferragamo presentation, Elsesser, who
Ferragamo helped popularize the cage heel, the wedge heel, the has also known him since his club-kid days, sat front row—a
stiletto, and the platform shoe. rarity for her at shows because she’s often walking in them.
Following his death in 1960, the brand remained family-run “I don’t sit at shows very often, but I was like, ‘It’s really
and financially successful. But in more recent years, Ferragamo important,’ ” she recalls. “I literally showed up in a hoodie. I said,
has been known more for its rich history than as a force in ‘I’m just coming because I need to be there to support my friend
fashion. In a year and a half at the helm, Davis has helped flip and sit with all of our friends.’ ”
that perception. To Elsesser, the fact that Davis has continued to surround
However, the designer hasn’t done so by abandoning himself with so many faces from his formative years is not surpris-
Ferragamo’s legacy, especially when it comes to accessories. ing. “It was like being part of a community with people who liked
Davis’s strappy Altaire heel is modeled after the classic Opanka to dance and have fun and run around, and it was seeing a lot of
style. His Wanda bags are variations on a design introduced in Black queer people who were some of the most creative and bright
1988 as an homage to Ferragamo’s wife and conceived by their people I’ve ever witnessed,” she says. “I think it makes sense. In
daughter Fiamma. an era where, as a designer or a creative, you’re impacted by
Davis also points out that Ferragamo’s home base of Florence Instagram and fair-weather people who are just visually impres-
is considered the birthplace of the Renaissance. “I always reference sive … I’m grateful to be in friendship with him in a real, authentic
the Renaissance period in terms of the art but also in the move- way. That’s what he cultivates. He is very human.”
ment and this way of living, which had this kind of ease,” he Davis’s work at Ferragamo isn’t pushy. It’s more like an invi-
explains. “The Renaissance period is the end of the darkness, the tation to become a more glamorous version of yourself. When
beginning of the new light, which is something that I try to relate I use the word sexy to describe one of his ombré Wanda bags, we
to every season.” both blush like teenagers who have just confessed a secret over
FaceTime. “I would like to refer to the word sexy more as a feeling
HIGH FASHION HAS BEEN both celebrated and criticized for rather than an image. Someone can be sexy even wearing a big
often existing in its own universe, but Davis feels happily tethered baggy jumper and a pair of tracksuit bottoms. It depends on how
to his own inner circle. He learned about tailoring, he says, the clothing makes the person feel,” he offers. “I want to make
from exploring his father’s extensive suit collection. His people feel a certain way; I don’t want to try to force people to
obsession ran so deep that in his early teens, his mother sent look a certain way.”
him to apprentice for the summer under a family friend in “And you know,” he says, “I think it kind of worked.” HB

0 9 / 2 3 209
Character
Photographs by CHRIS RHODES
Accessories director: MIGUEL ENAMORADO

Mini bag, GIORGIO ARMANI.

 Bag, SAINT LAURENT BY
ANTHONY VACCARELLO;
shopBAZAAR.com .

FALL’s standout
ACCESSORIES
are the ultimate
SCENE-STEALERS
Handbag, DIOR.
Bag, BALENCIAGA.
Bag, CHLOÉ.
Mule, BOTTEGA VENETA.
Boot, CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE.
Bag, LOUIS VUITTON.
Beanie, LORO PIANA;
shopBAZAAR.com .
 Mule, BROTHER VELLIES.

PRODUCTION: WEBBER; ON-SET

PRODUCTION: CONNECT THE DOTS INC;
SET DESIGN: KELLY INFIELD.
FOR MORE SHOPPING INFORMATION,
GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS.
= BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM
 Scarves, ETRO.

Home COUNTY
Photographs by BIBI CORNEJO BORTHWICK
Styling by KATIE SHILLINGFORD
 Blazer, jumpsuit, belt, and scarf
(in hand), SAINT LAURENT BY
ANTHONY VACCARELLO.

An expressive
mix of PLAIDS,
PATTERNS, and
TEXTURED KNITS
brings a touch of
RUSTIC ROMANCE
to the ENGLISH
COUNTRYSIDE
 Shawl, ALBERTA FERRETTI.
Hat, MISCREANTS. Platform shoes,
MOLLY GODDARD.
Dress, FENDI. Platform shoes,
MOLLY GODDARD.
 Sweater, skirt, and pumps, DIOR.
Tulle skirt, MOLLY GODDARD. Hat,
MISCREANTS. Gloves, GUCCI.
 Cropped jacket and coat, AKRIS.
Pocket square (worn as headpiece), GUCCI.
Gloves, AGNELLE.
Trench coat, feather stole ( from the Michael Clark
archive), socks, and mules, JW ANDERSON.
 Bomber jacket and bow blouse,
ANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD.
Jumper, bralette, and briefs, FERRAGAMO.
Tights, MEMOI.
Coat, PRADA. Boots, LOEWE.
 This page: Shirt, kilt, hooded scarf, and
tights, BURBERRY. Opposite page: Coat,
jacket, and Bermudas, CHANEL.
Dress, ALEXANDER McQUEEN.
 Waistcoat and pants, LOUIS VUITTON.

MODEL: MIRIAM SÁNCHEZ; HAIR: SOICHI INAGAKI

FOR ORIBE; MAKEUP: NIAMH QUINN FOR 111SKIN;
MANICURE: CHARLY AVENELL FOR BYREDO;
CASTING: ANITA BITTON AT THE ESTABLISHMENT;
PRODUCTION: ZOE TOMLINSON. SPECIAL
THANKS TO WE FOLK. FOR MORE SHOPPING
INFORMATION, GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS.
 Essays by JESMYN WARD and EDWIDGE DANTICAT
Photographs by MAX FARAGO
Styling by ALEXANDRA DELIFER

234 B A Z A A R
 “NO ONE has ever been able to TAKE AWAY our folks’ JOY. I find TALKING about
the RIDICULOUSNESS of the BANS sometimes BRINGS LAUGHTER, in the
ways our people have learned to LAUGH to keep from CRYING. We do what we
need to do: WE RESIST, WE INFORM, WE AMPLIFY, WE WRITE.”
JACQUELINE WOODSON

JACQUELINE WOODSON is the author of

nearly 40 chapter books, picture books,
and novels for young and adult readers. Her
2018 illustrated exploration of diversity in
schools, The Day You Begin, and her 2014
YA memoir in verse about growing up in
the 1960s and ’70s, Brown Girl Dreaming,
are just some of her titles that have been
subject to bans in Texas and Florida.

Turtleneck and sweater, VALENTINO. Watch, ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 36. Ring, Woodson’s own.
 “When I heard my book was
banned, I felt HOPEFUL? PROUD?
The people doing this banning are not
great people. To resort to such a CRUDE
TOOL shows how very AFRAID and
THREATENED they are. To quote the
late, great June Jordan, ‘I must become
a MENACE to my ENEMIES.’ ”
TA-NEHISI COATES

TA-NEHISI COATES is the author of Between

the World and Me. It is Coates’s letter to his
son on the experience and history of being
Black in America. Since its publication in
2015, the book has been subject to bans
or attempted bans in Texas, Pennsylvania,
and South Carolina, among other states.

Clothing and accessories, Coates’s own.

 Where I
FOUND MYSELF
GROWING UP in a small town in
Mississippi, JESMYN WARD
LEARNED about EMPATHY—and
IDENTITY—through the BOOKS in
her elementary-school LIBRARY
n my memory, my elementary school was small and I snuck through the streets of New York with Harriet the
standard for a poorer, rural Mississippi town. The Spy, eavesdropping in dumbwaiters. I searched the seas with
brick was the color of an old scab. There were three Pippi Longstocking to find her missing, maybe dead, father.
buildings: an auditorium with classrooms, a newer I rode an old, lame horse with a lonely girl named Aerin,
structure with squat ceilings and cinder-block walls, who mourns her absent father and dead mother while she
and an ancient cafeteria that had been there since hunts dragons in The Hero and the Crown. In all my reading,
my mother’s time. She was one of the first Black students to I muddled along with the characters as they weathered loss
attend the school when it was integrated in the ’60s. I’d imagine and disorientation—weighty subjects for any child. But
20 years later, as I ate my packed lunch in the cafeteria, that I always felt safe in the cradle of the story. The care the
slant-walled building looked much the same as it did back authors put into their storytelling made me feel that way,
then: all peeling, sun-bleached wood, with box fans going even as they enlarged my sense of wonder and witness.
strong in the windows because it had no central air or heat.
Even though it was old and dingy, I loved my school. BY THE TIME I was 10 years old, I’d made my way through
I loved the tiny square playground where I spent most of hundreds of books, but I also understood that I was searching
my recess hours, surrounded by tall pine trees in an amphi- for something. I wanted some glimpse of someone who
theater of living green. I spent long moments looking up at resembled me. In all my reading, I’d come across only
their crowned heads, trying to discern some dialogue in the two Black girl main characters: Cassie Logan, the nine-year-
way they swayed in the wind or nodded in the breeze. I loved old trying to make sense of life in Jim Crow–era Mississippi
the small courtyard near the cafeteria. It was where I first in Mildred D. Taylor’s Roll of Thunder, Hear My Cry, and
learned that if I stood very still and studied the sky, the clouds Jennifer, who f iercely pretends to be a witch in E.L.
would move like great boats overhead, casting their cool Konigsburg’s Jennifer, Hecate, Macbeth, William McKinley, and
shadows on the concrete and grass. Me, Elizabeth. Both novels reflected two important aspects
But I discovered real metaphor and imagery in the tiny of my life—my Blackness and my girlhood—and I loved them
library. Allowing myself to fall into a book felt effortless and for it. But they were only two. I was frustrated. I didn’t need
immersive, like jumping off a downed tree trunk into a brown, everything I read to mirror my own identity and experience,
swiftly moving river. Every story was a subsummation. but I wanted more. I wanted more of the people I read ➤

0 9 / 2 3 237
 about to struggle with racial violence or poverty and to also in encyclopedias. Meanwhile, the Wipers, hostile aliens, have
be independent and adventurous, unbound by the restrictions settled on Earth and are determined to eradicate all human
of reality. I wanted to read about Black girls who subverted knowledge by destroying books. In the show, the Wipers raid
the will of this world—a world that said that when I grew up, dilapidated libraries covered in ivy and the crumpled snowfall
I could expect to work as a housekeeper or a nursing-home of old paper, ripping apart books and toppling card-catalog
aide or a hotel maid or on an assembly line in a factory if cabinets. They are feral and wild-eyed, without sense or reason.
I was lucky but that I could never be a writer like Harriet Even as a child, I hated them. Their menace seemed real and
or an explorer like Pippi or a warrior like Aerin. I hungered unhinged. The Users’ lessons often felt ham-fisted and boring,
for affirmation, possibility, but all I got was erasure, and it but I still cheered for the librarians and the kids they led—the
tasted like air. keepers of story. I inherently knew the value of reading and,
even more so, of reading books that enlarged my view of the
THE REAGAN ’80S WERE particularly grim for children. world and humanity, even if they didn’t center me.
We saw images every day of kids our age who were struggling
to survive famine and destitution. The space shuttle Challenger I WONDER IF KIDS TODAY view conservative parents and
blew up on live TV as we watched in the school auditorium. school boards in the same light; I wonder if they look at the
Some days, we did drills where we hid under our desks or adults who campaign against books and see people without
laced our fingers behind our necks and knelt in hallways, sense or reason. I spent my entire childhood empathizing
trying to protect the tenderest parts of our bodies from with characters who had little in common with me, relieved
nuclear assault and tornadoes. I always felt in peril, devoid to escape to another world. When I became a young adult
of agency, and doomed. To see people like me in the books and found books like Toni Morrison’s The Bluest Eye, I was
I read might have alleviated some of that feeling—or at least elated, but the child in me was angry. Later, I would learn
taught me that people like me could embrace adventure, that the Wipers were at work even as I perused the shelves
could thrive. Perhaps I would have learned that life was more of my elementary-school library, banning Harriet the Spy
than the threat of loss, but I never discovered that. Instead, and Roll of Thunder, Hear My Cry; I found those books in
I empathized with Cassie and Jennifer, grateful not only for spite of them.
the temporary relief from exploded shuttles and nuclear It seems that children now must fight an even more
blasts, from WIC raisins and powdered milk, but also for difficult battle than the one I did, especially in states like
the near experience of witness they gave me. Florida, where a large number of books by and about people
When we weren’t finding new things to read in the library, of color and 2SLGBTQIA+ people—books that will challenge
we watched films like The NeverEnding Story or Bridge to and enlarge the perspectives of readers—have been banned.
Terabithia. These movies, like the books upon which they I hope that these kids will find Laurie Halse Anderson’s
were based, were all devastating. On movie days, my whole Speak or George M. Johnson’s All Boys Aren’t Blue or Angie
class would sob in horror at the terrible, unexpected death Thomas’s The Hate U Give or Jewell Parker Rhodes’s Ghost
of a magical horse or a young girl. Literary films, like books, Boys or Mariko Tamaki’s This One Summer or Anne Frank’s
did not coddle; they challenged us and expanded our perspec- The Diary of a Young Girl in spite of those who wield the
tives. People die, they said. Those you love will leave you, hammer of censorship. This erasure of different voices feels
they said, but you will continue on in your life until one day, as if it is pushing us ever closer to a more desolate tomor-
you don’t. row—one where even more kids feel unseen, where the magical
Other days, we watched a TV show called Tomes & and necessary work of story is stymied while the Wipers
Talismans. Years later, I learned that Mississippi Public rend and gnash and deprive brave, deeply feeling, sensitive
Broadcasting, then called Mississippi ETV, produced the children of the stories they need the most. HB
series. It was set in an apocalyptic future where most of
humanity has been relocated to another star system, but a JESMYN WARD is the author of Salvage the Bones; Sing,
small band of survivors remains on Earth. A librarian, Ms. Unburied, Sing; and Men We Reaped. She is the first female
Bookheart, leads these survivors as they attempt to complete author to win the National Book Award for Fiction twice, as
a library containing all human knowledge. Ms. Bookheart well as the first Black author to do so. Ward is also a
and her little band are the Users, and their missions taught MacArthur fellowship recipient and won the 2022 Library
me and my schoolmates how to understand the Dewey decimal of Congress Prize for American Fiction. Her fourth novel,
system and about the wealth of information we could find Let Us Descend, is out this fall. She lives in Mississippi.

To see PEOPLE like me in the BOOKS I READ might have ALLEVIATED

some of that feeling—or at least TAUGHT ME that PEOPLE like me
could embrace ADVENTURE, could thrive.

238 B A Z A A R
 “Finding JOY in the midst of these BOOK BANS is easy because, although the PROLIFERATION
of these BANS reflects a DANGEROUS SUPPRESSIVE and ANTIDEMOCRATIC SURGE
across our country, COMMUNITIES and particularly YOUNG PEOPLE are FIGHTING BACK,
are demanding a FREEDOM to READ and LEARN and be UNCOMFORTABLE.”
NIKOLE HANNAH-JONES

NIKOLE HANNAH-JONES is the creator of The 1619 Project, which began as a groundbreaking
series of articles for The New York Times Magazine that asked readers to rethink the origins of the
American Revolution and Black people’s contributions to U.S. history. Since its publication in book
form in 2021, The 1619 Project has been subject to bans and attempted bans in at least 14 states.

Dress, MARA HOFFMAN. Jewelry, Hannah-Jones’s own.

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 “I made Flamer to HELP KIDS
who feel ALIENATED, ISOLATED,
and DESPERATE, and BOOK
BANNERS want to take that
HELP AWAY. This is all being done
in the name of ‘PROTECTING
the CHILDREN,’ but nothing
could be FURTHER from
the TRUTH. ... I find SOLACE
in creating NEW WORK.”
MIKE CURATO

MIKE CURATO’s 2020 graphic novel, Flamer, is one of the

most banned books of the past year. A semi-autobiographical
story about a boy bullied for being gay at Boy Scout camp,
the book has been targeted in Missouri, Florida, and Utah.
In 2022, a school police officer in Katy, Texas, temporarily
removed the book after a parent filed a criminal complaint,
despite the fact that a review board had already deemed
the book suitable for high school students.

Jacket, shirt, and pants, VALENTINO. Necklace, Curato’s own.

 “I remind MYSELF of the RESPONSE of CHILDREN who still have
ACCESS to my POETRY. I’m ETERNALLY INSPIRED by the POEMS
they WRITE and what they’ve been able to CREATE. I have NO DOUBT the
NEXT GENERATION of GREAT LITERARY VOICES is well on its way.”
AMANDA GORMAN

AMANDA GORMAN is the youngest inaugural poet in U.S. history, following her historic address
at President Biden’s 2021 inauguration, where she read her work “The Hill We Climb.” A book
version of it was targeted by a parent in Miami Lakes, Florida, this past March, though the parent’s
written complaint claimed the poem had been written by Oprah Winfrey.

Clothing and jewelry, Gorman’s own.

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 “I have never read a book that I was not supposed to. My parents didn’t place any restrictions
on my reading, and I believe that THE EXPERIENCE of NOT UNDERSTANDING
something is just ANOTHER KIND of LEARNING. If I believed that there were books that
someone ‘wasn’t supposed to read,’ I would be a fundamentally DIFFERENT PERSON.”
KYLE LUKOFF

KYLE LUKOFF is the author of 13 children’s books, including When Aidan Became a Big Brother
and Call Me Max. They often feature trans children and have been banned in Texas, Indiana,
Virginia, and Florida. In Murray City, Utah, after a child brought Call Me Max to story time in 2021,
the school district suspended a program introducing inclusive literature to children.

Western shirt, T-shirt, and jeans, POLO RALPH LAUREN.

242 B A Z A A R
 “I feel the TENDENCIES brought up by this FRANTIC NEED to
CONTROL CHILDREN’S THOUGHTS in ways that seem
REPREHENSIBLE to me, and are indeed an ECHO of the BOOK
BURNINGS of the 1930s in GERMANY, are unfortunate.”
ART SPIEGELMAN

ART SPIEGELMAN is a renowned comic artist. His graphic novel Maus, which explores his parents’
experiences as Holocaust survivors, has been taught in classrooms across the country since its
publication in 1986. It has also frequently been the subject of bans, notably in January 2022, when
the McMinn County school board in Tennessee removed the novel from its eighth-grade curriculum.

Clothing and accessories, Spiegelman’s own.

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 GORMAN, HAIR: LARAE BURRESS; MAKEUP: ELIVEN Q. FOR GEORGE M. JOHNSON; STYLING: SHANNON STOKES; MAKEUP: CASEY DANDRIDGE FOR FENTY BEAUTY. FOR MORE SHOPPING INFORMATION, GO TO BAZAAR.COM/CREDITS.
“When I heard MY BOOK was

FOR JACQUELINE WOODSON, NIKOLE HANNAH-JONES, MIKE CURATO, AND KYLE LUKOFF, HAIR: JUNYA NAKASHIMA FOR ORIBE; MAKEUP: CHIHO OMAE FOR CHANEL BEAUTY; PROP STYLING: SPENCER VROOMAN. FOR AMANDA
BANNED, I LAUGHED. I understood
the severity of it, but I just laughed.
How dare you ban MY STORY?
One thing it has done is ACTIVATED
me in this FIGHT FOR EDUCATION
and OUR FUTURE. Banning the
book won’t ban the story—and TRUST
that the STORY WILL BE TOLD.”
GEORGE M. JOHNSON

GEORGE M. JOHNSON is the author of

the best-selling memoir-manifesto All Boys
Aren’t Blue, a recollection of their life as
a Black, queer youth. During the 2021–
2022 school year, it was banned in no less
than 29 school districts. According to the
American Library Association, it was also
the second-most-challenged book that year.

Suit and shirt, TERRY SINGH NYC. Boots, Johnson’s own.

 It Can HAPPEN HERE
In Haiti, EDWIDGE DANTICAT
saw America as a BEACON of
FREEDOM. But in recent
LEGISLATION in her home state
of Florida, she hears ECHOES
of the OPPRESSIVE REGIMES
her FAMILY FLED.
arlier this year, my 2010 essay collection, Create a permit, and the “Don’t Say Gay” bill, which was expanded
Dangerously, was adapted for the stage and by the Florida Board of Education to restrict instruction of
performed in Miami, where I live. Like the LGBTQ+ issues in middle and high schools. Transgender
book, the play honors artists, particularly youth can no longer start gender-affirming health care, and
writers who have risked their lives to write doctors can refuse to treat transgender people without
their books—as well as the readers who have consequence. The Unauthorized Alien Transport Program,
risked their lives to read them. reminiscent of 19th-century fugitive-slave laws, allows state
It’s a legacy I know well, having grown up first in Haiti, officials to remove and transport migrants from Florida as
then in the United States among Haitian expatriates. My well as other states. However, by law, those who transport
friend Régine Chassagne, a singer from the indie rock undocumented immigrants into the state, including those
group Arcade Fire, and I recently talked about how during in their families and churches, can be considered human
the brutal Duvalier dictatorship in 1963 Haiti, her grand- smugglers and charged with a third-degree felony. Diversity,
father, the Haitian poet Roland Chassagne, was arrested at equity, and inclusion programs, which might help address
a Port-au-Prince publishing house for sharing “contraband historical injustices, have been defunded at public univer-
literature.” He was taken to François “Papa Doc” Duvalier’s sities; classes, majors, and minors involving race or gender
notorious prison dungeon, Fort Dimanche, and was never studies are being censored.
heard from again. DeSantis’s signature “Stop W.O.K.E. Act” has led to the
Many immigrants in Florida and elsewhere know at censoring of textbooks, as well as an Advanced Placement
least one story like this one. In the past, a Floridian, Texan, African American Studies course, and prohibits teachers,
or West Virginian might have dismissed such comparisons librarians, and media specialists from sharing books or
by saying, “That could never happen here.” Sadly, it is happen- presenting any material that makes students—that is, white
ing and will worsen if we’re not vigilant. Here in Florida, students—feel that they bear “personal responsibility for and
our current governor (and now presidential hopeful), Ron must feel guilt, anguish, or other forms of psychological
DeSantis, touts our state as “a citadel of freedom.” But in distress” over past acts committed by members of their gender,
the past two years, DeSantis has signed a six-week abortion race, or national origin. The law singles out Black-history
ban, a law allowing concealed weapons to be carried without instruction, noting that it should (Continued on page 247)

0 9 / 2 3 245
VOICES: VOICES: casting directors and model agents and other
industry professionals and members of the
IN CONVERSATION ESSAY public to listen to what was going on and
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 135 CONTINUED FROM PAGE 137
see how they could help.
Around the same time, Franca Sozzani,
in dark comedy. Do you think that is more to start casting them in editorials. then the editor in chief of Italian Vogue,
of a U.K. sensibility? Why does that genre At the same time, I really cared about decided she wanted to do an all-Black issue.
speak to you and inspire you? the homelessness in New York City. She reached out to me and said, “I need you
SH: In the U.K., you would see shows on I gathered Black models from all different to be part of this. I need to write about
the BBC or Channel 4 that didn’t have agencies, including Iman, Veronica, Cynthia you, but I also want you to do me a favor
to have happy endings. Things didn’t need to Bailey, Gail O’Neill, Naomi Campbell, and and find me the new girls. I’ll give you 10
be tied up with a bow. Characters didn’t Garcelle Beauvais, and told them I wanted pages.” I worked with her son, Francesco, a
need to learn a lesson or ask for forgiveness. to do something with them to benefit others photographer and filmmaker, and supported
Bad Sisters is a drama that leans into the by raising money for the homeless. Everyone that vision.
comedy, and I actually think people in thinks the BGC was created to help change Still, it was like a ship that was so far out
the U.S. are very comfortable with that kind things surrounding race, but it wasn’t. in the middle of the ocean that you couldn’t
of thing, whether it’s Fargo or Succession or When we did our very first fundraiser, even get it to turn around. So I started the
The Sopranos or Better Call Saul. They’re everybody came, from Robert De Niro to Diversity Coalition in 2012. Naomi and
great dramas that are allowed to be Michael Jordan. It was a community effort Iman were both part of it, as were casting
funny. … Was there a lesson that each of to have a good time, let people see these directors, hair and makeup professionals,
you learned from working on The Bear beautiful Black girls, and let the girls recog- models, agents, and editors. Together, we
and Yellowjackets? Or a favorite memory nize what it’s like to use their celebrity to learned what was happening near and far.
you have from filming? change someone’s life. It was about selling My assistant, Catherine Capellan, helped
AE: I realized close to the end that “Whoa! tickets and raising consciousness about a me collect data about how many models of
I’m learning through positive experiences,” growing problem. We’d divide the money up color each designer had in their show over
which I feel like doesn’t happen all the and give it to three organizations committed the course of multiple seasons.
time. I found myself being like, “Whoa! to helping the homeless, including Housing I had to change the game immediately,
I’m enjoying this. Why am I enjoying this? Works; they were also trying to help people so after Fashion Week in 2013, I wrote a
Why do I like this leadership structure or with HIV and AIDS. letter naming the fashion houses that were
how people are communicating with each After the Berlin wall fell in 1989, the consistently lacking in racial diversity
other? And how can I bring that energy, fashion business changed. Outside casting and sent it to Women’s Wear Daily and
those lessons, to the things that I’m working directors and stylists became part of the the four councils of fashion in New York,
on in the future?” industry, and model scouts were going to London, Milan, and Paris. I had to really
SH: I know exactly what you mean. Although Eastern Europe and discovering these beau- temper the list because so many designers
I think you can have a negative experience, tiful girls that they hadn’t previously been were at fault.
and the greatest thing you can take from able to access. Those models had a specific The following year, in 2014, I received
that is how not to behave moving forward. body alignment, with long, narrow hips. the CFDA Founder’s Award. People used to
My answer’s quite basic. We had this scene That’s a designer’s dream. Maybe because say to me, “The CFDA needs to recognize
in episode six of Bad Sisters where we were I’d come out of that world, I didn’t have you.” I’d go, “Child, the CFDA is not going
trying to drown “the Prick.” It was me and any problem with it at first. It’s just that to take their time to be recognizing me. I’m
Eve Hewson and Eva Birthistle and Sarah it got to be a thing where it trended for a a rebel.” I wasn’t looking for their attention;
Greene. We were hiding under a bed while moment, then an hour, a day, a week, a year, I was looking for them to help get shit done
he was Rohypnoled, so he was not really and then years. right—and they did. I have to admit, I was
conscious, and he was taking a piss in the Soon, that type of girl was no longer surprised and very touched.
wardrobe. I’ve never laughed so much. just an aspiration or an inspiration. The When I look back at my life, I’m happy
And it was just such a lovely feeling to be girl of color disappeared. There would be that I dared to continue to do things. I didn’t
beside those three girls, just laughing our one model of color, like an Alek Wek, that intend to do what I did; it was just a calling.
heads off. Every time we try to not laugh everybody wanted to use, but no one else. Invisible Beauty has helped me to see how
in the scene, it was real, because we were That was a problem. my actions have benefited others. Because
all feeling that. I closed my modeling agency in late of it, I’ve learned to have better respect for
M L : T h e re we re s o m e m o m e n t s o n 1996 after almost 13 years in operation. myself and to give myself more credit.
Yellowjackets where I just looked around I spent some time in Mexico but was Not everyone’s meant to be a leader,
at this group of women and I was like, “This told I had to return, as the Black model but what everyone can do is help change
is amazing.” I couldn’t have conceived of never properly resurfaced. I held a press our political situation by giving support to
this in my 20s, that we’d all be at this stage conference in September of 2007 and then others and, more than anything else, vote. If
in our lives and we’d all be doing something went on to host town-hall meetings month you help change that, it’ll bleed into some
so fulfilling. HB to month when I had the energy. I invited of the things I’ve been advocating for. HB

246 B A Z A A R
THE TRUTH TELLERS: poet Audre Lorde once said of women, books are powerful and
dangerous. They can also be platforms for liberation. Books that
EDWIDGE DANTICAT are banned are often ones that challenge the status quo, expose
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 245
injustice and inequality, or try to build empathy and allyship.
Tyrants and small-minded people, of course, know this too
“examine what it means to be a responsible and respectful well. In Florida, censoring and banning books is part of a more
person, for the purpose of encouraging tolerance of diversity in comprehensive effort to disenfranchise Black, brown, and LGBTQ+
a pluralistic society and for nurturing and protecting democratic people that includes gerrymandering, voter suppression, and a
values and institutions.” full-on assault on public education. While public schools are
The “Stop W.O.K.E. Act” has had some preposterous outcomes. underfunded, millions are poured into school-choice programs,
In this climate, even spaces supposedly friendly to conservative subsidizing private institutions that are free to teach whatever they
agendas have been caught in the culture wars. The principal of want. The odds are being purposefully stacked against mostly Black,
a charter school that emphasizes “classical education” resigned brown, and immigrant families for whom public schools might
in March after sixth graders at her school were shown a picture be the only option. This feels both deliberate and familiar.
of Michelangelo’s statue of David, which one parent labeled I trace it all to May 2020, when, after the brutal on-camera
“pornographic.” In May, the state’s Department of Education asphyxiation of George Floyd, hundreds of thousands in the United
placed a fifth-grade teacher under investigation after she showed States and around the world protested, including groups of young
her class the animated film Strange World, which features a gay people of all races and genders. As the playwright and actress
character. One parent, who attended protests organized by far-right Anna Deavere Smith told PBS NewsHour, this was partly a result
extremists the Proud Boys and the “parental rights” group Moms of how education has increased young people’s awareness of Black
for Liberty last year, filed a complaint demanding that the book culture. Many of the youth had been influenced by writers like
version of Amanda Gorman’s 2021 inaugural poem, “The Hill Morrison, she said: “They have experienced this together, and
We Climb,” be removed from “the total environment” and that they expect much more from the system.”
it was “not for schools.” The K–8 school responded by limiting I attended protests in Miami during the summer of 2020,
access to the book to its middle-school students. (The parent including some organized by a group of young activists called
also misidentified the author as Oprah Winfrey, who wrote the Dream Defenders. In 2013, they’d held a monthlong sit-in at the
foreword to the edition.) Florida Capitol to demand a special legislative session on Florida’s
Many teachers I know fear more might be at stake. “stand your ground” law after the acquittal of George Zimmerman
“All it takes is one irate parent pushing the law to its limits in the shooting death of Trayvon Martin. In May of this year,
to make an example of you and put you in jail,” one high school Dream Defenders returned to the state capitol. They requested
English teacher told me. Over her decades-long career, she has a meeting with Governor DeSantis. Instead of being able to engage
taught Toni Morrison’s The Bluest Eye, James Baldwin’s Go Tell in a dialogue across ideological lines, 14 of the group’s members
It on the Mountain, F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby, Ernest and allies were arrested for trespassing.
Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea, and many of Shakespeare’s
plays. However, teaching even Shakespeare is now risky. Works “THE MORE I READ, the more I was led to abhor and detest my
such as A Midsummer Night’s Dream have been removed from enslavers,” Frederick Douglass wrote in his 1845 memoir, Narrative
some course lists and libraries because of “sexual content.” (Who of the Life of Frederick Douglass. At a 1982 event on censorship and
wants to tell those who complain that actors in Shakespeare’s time literature, Morrison said, “The same sensibilities that informed
performed in drag because women were not allowed onstage?) those people to make it a criminal act for Black people to read are
Many public-school teachers I have talked to consider their the ancestors of the same people who are making it a criminal
current reality dystopian. Afraid of breaking draconian laws, act for their own children to read, and I don’t see a great deal of
librarians and media specialists have had to empty their shelves difference between them.”
or cover up their books. Banning books robs readers, she explained years later, of that
“I think they only want us to teach Republican white men,” “dance of an open mind engaging another equally open one—an
one history teacher told me. “Sometimes I’m unsure what place activity that occurs most naturally, most often in the reading/
or century we’re in.” writing world we live in.” HB

FOR ME, the future seems clear because I’ve seen and read about EDWIDGE DANTICAT is the author of numerous books, including
it before. Teachers and readers will eventually be jailed over books Everything Inside. She has lived in South Florida for more than
for the same reason others have been elsewhere: because, as the two decades.

HARPER’S BAZAAR (ISSN 0017-7873), SEPTEMBER 2023, ISSUE NO. 3715, is published monthly with a combined issue in June/July and December/January (10 times per year) by Hearst, 300 West
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 A R C H I V E

© PETER LINDBERGH/PETER LINDBERGH FOUNDATION, PARIS

JANE BIRKIN AUGUST 2004
“LICK YOUR LIPS and toss your hair back” was the style advice non plus,” which played off the combination of Gainsbourg’s louche
that Jane Birkin recalled her former partner Serge Gainsbourg persona and Birkin’s youth and beauty. But it was Birkin’s strong
giving her in an interview last year with Harper’s Bazaar. But Birkin sense of self and eternally independent spirit that cemented
never really needed much help in that particular area. The British- her place on mood boards everywhere. Whether it was the way
born singer and actress, who passed away in July at the age of 76, she wore her minidresses, loose trousers, and oversize blazers, her
embodied the term icon in a way few ever do. She came of age in penchant for toting her belongings around in straw baskets, or
the Swinging London of the 1960s, then, following a brief marriage her approach to art, love, and motherhood, she did it all on her
to composer John Barry, decamped in 1968 for Paris, where she own terms—famously inspiring Hermès’s most mythical handbag
met French singer and songwriter Gainsbourg on the set of the along the way. More than five decades later, Birkin remained slightly
film Slogan. Their 12-year relationship, both romantic and creative, bemused by all the attention. “That anyone would want to wear
would include collaborations on cheeky duets like “Je t’aime … moi things I did or look like me,” she told Bazaar, “I was amazed!” HB

Photograph by Peter Lindbergh

248 B A Z A A R
 © P&G 2023
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