Vol.

36
$1.95 USA
Step-by-Step
BT-7
Model 1935
Captured Tanks
Russia 1942
Under the
German Flag
By Glenn Bartolotti

A complete Step-by-Step guide to Painting and Finishing Armor Models

Vol. 36

BT-7 Step-by-Step
Model 1935
Russia 1942
Captured Tanks
Under the
German Flag
By Glenn Bartolotti

A complete Step-by-Step guide to

Painting and Finishing Armor Models

Copyright © 2013 by Glenn L. Bartolotti

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or
transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or by
Bladerunner8u Production, © 2013 mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information
[email protected] storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the author.
Printing is allowed by the purchaser only as reference and not mass production.
 Materials Used
The materials I use are very easy to obtain and simple to use.
Most are inexpensive and found in most all art supply stores.
Over the years I have learned to used these basic materials to obtain
finishes that look very realistic. Consistency is very important and
following each steps is also very important to obtain the desired finish.

You will notice that in none of the steps will you see the method of dry-
brushing. I do not like to use this method as some armor modelers do.
I prefer a more subtle look in which I feel represents the look of a full
scale armor vehicle.

Materials used for painting and

weathering. In this Step-by-Step Acrylic
paints are used to paint the model
showing the same results can be
achieved with enamel or acrylic paints!

I use a basic single action

airbrush. Nothing special.
 BT-7 MODEL 1935
The BT tanks (Russian: fast tanks, infantry tanks, and medium abandoned or destroyed. A few remained
Быстроходный танк (БТ), tanks in service. in use in 1942, but were rare after that
Bystrokhodny tank, lit. “fast time. The Red Army planned to replace the
tank” or “high-speed tank” During the Second World War, BT-5 BT tank series with the T-34, and had just
were a series of Soviet cavalry and BT-7 tanks were begun doing so when the German invasion
tanks produced in large numbers used in the 1939 (Operation Barbarossa) took place.
between 1932 and 1941. They Soviet invasion of Poland, During the final weeks of World War II,
were lightly armoured, but and in large numbers in a significant number of BT-7 tanks took
reasonably well-armed for their the battles part in the invasion of Japanese-occupied
time, and had the best mobility of 1941 - during Manchuria, in August 1945. This was the last
of all contemporary tanks of the which thousands combat action for the BT tanks.
were From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
world. The BT tanks were known
by the nickname Betka from the
acronym, or
its diminutive
Betushka.[2]
The direct successor of the
BT tanks would be the
famous T-34
medium tank,
introduced in
1940, which
would replace
all of the
Soviet
 The figure is from
the DML set 6655 1. The kit used is 1/35 Military Miniature Series
Item No-35309
Russian Tank BT-7 Model 1935
1
About the Model
1/35 scale plastic assembly kit model of the Russian BT-
7. Length: 161mm, Width: 65mm. - The unique wedge-
shaped frontal area and large road wheels have been
accurately reproduced. - Hull side features the same
double-wall structure as the actual tank. - Mechanically
complicated suspension features superb details as well as
ease of assembly. - Assembly type tracks included.
- 5 types of markings also included. - Photo reference
leaflet (B5 size) is included in initial production lot kits.

2. The completed model is given a primer coat to cover

and protect the photo etch parts and give the model a
good base to start the paint process. I use a basic spray
can primer that can be purchased at the local home
store. This primer coat makes painting the steps much
easier because you get a smooth coat of color to allow
you to see all the areas that will be needed to be painted
in the steps used to shade and high light the model.
3

3. The first step in the painting process is the

pre-shade. This is the darkest shadow color.
Burnt Umber 4605 is used.What you are trying
to achieve in this is to make sure any areas that
your light source cannot hit is painted. You are
for the most part adding artificial shadows. All the
recesses, corners, tracks, and under objects that
stand off the tank. It is also best achieved in some
areas by painting the areas from under the tank
as to just paint under the objects.

4 4. Next step in the painting process is the

base coat this is the main color. Testors 4789
Sandgelb is used in this step.

Cover the main parts of the BT-7. Let some

Shadow show though.
5

5. Next step in the painting process is the

high-light. This is Testors 4789 Sandgelb
Mixed with Testors 4769 Flat White. What
you are trying to achieve is to make sure any
areas of your light source can hit is painted.
This step will bring out your BT-7 details.
Paint all the high spots, centers of any
panels and the tops of objects that stand off
the tank. Once again contrast is important!

6. The model is now given a Testors

clear gloss coat only in the areas that
the decals will be applied. Micro Sol
was used to flatten the decals down.
I used the decals from a old Tamiya
set but this marking can also be
found in German aircraft kits. When
dry, spray the tank with Testors clear
flat and allow to dry for about 2 days.
A flat finish is very important to my
Step-by-Step finishing.
 7. Next step in the painting process are the tools and
equipment. I paint all tools and equipment on the tank before
final weathering. In painting these items study the way metal
and wood looks in real life and add the colors into your paint
to really get a good contrasting look and make sure you use
various colors and shade as you can in each item. Most
important don’t paint items just one color or shade. I use acrylic
paint but any paint you are comfortable with will work. The
metal items are painted in shades of black, they will be treated
with a metallic and rust finish later.

The muffler and spare tracks are also painted using

Burnt Umber 4605 thinned to almost a wash.
7

7
 8

8. Next step is the wash.

First I brush the area of the BT-7 that will receive the wash with clean turpentine. I put a dab of raw umber oil paint on
a pallet, the oil paint is thinned with turpentine on the pallet and then applied to the model with a small brush.
I do not want the wash to coat the entire model, it is controlled just were I want it. This is sometimes
called a pin wash, apply to all of the surface details to create false shadows around each one, and
any excess wash is blended into the surrounding surface before drying. I streak it down the sides
like it would naturally in some areas, but care should be taken not to overdo this...be subtle.

Once the body of the BT-7

wash has dried it is turned
on its side and the road
wheels are given a wash.

NOTE: Always use clean turpentine!

 10
9

9. Next step is the effects. I use artist oil paint to give flat areas of 10. Next step in the weathering process are the dark paint
the tank a look as though water that has mixed with dust and dried chips & scratches. Remember this tank was green before the
on the surface. Germans repainted it. I add chipped paint with Testors 4790
I paint the area with clean turpentine as before. I put a dab of oil Olivgrun acrylic paint and a small no. 3 brush. The key to chips
paint oil paint on a pallet, the oil paint is thinned with turpentine on are make them small and without any pattern, keeping them
the pallet and then applied to the model with a small brush. Blend on the most abused edges and damaged areas. Use common
well and be very subtle. Other earth shade oil colors can be used in sense and remember that less is more with chipped/worn areas,
this step to add other transparent glaze weathering effects. and think very small!

11. Next the tires/road wheels are

given a very thin wash of black oil paint
thinned with turpentine. The wash works
well because stark black rubber is not
realistic. Let wash flow all around the
road wheels in the same manner.
It is impossible to add the wash behind
the road wheels but if you can’t see it no
one will see it is not painted there.

11
12. Next step is pastel pigment weathering. I use pastels in the same way you use
pigments, but I make my own powder. The pastels are sold as sticks at the art store
and come in a large variety of shades. I use a file to grind them into powder. I mix them
with turpentine on a pallet and apply them with a brush. The BT-7’s tracks and wheels
get a light earth color thinned heavily with turpentine. You want this wash to be so thin Make sure you thin the powder heavily
you barely see the color in it. Add more washes for heavy weathered look. because if not it will dry and cover to much
Apply a very thin mixture in random areas on the BT-7’s body to show where soil of the area applied, a little goes a long way!
and dust has accumulated. Be very subtle.

12 The muffler pipes get pastel washes using shades of rust, brown,
and olive green pastel powder. Apply the rust shade first and
then add blotches of the brown and olive after, blend it at the
edges. When the wash dries it is quite convincing giving a good
representation of weathered iron. Add this same mixtures to the
metal areas of the tools.
 13

13. Next step are metal accents

I use a no. 2 graphite pencil to add the metal accents
to the raised parts of the tracks. I also add this to the
areas you can see on the drive sprocket teeth.
13. The pencil is also used on the metal tools. Just highlight the edges of the
tools and not the entire metal area.

The figure is built stock from

the DML set 6655.

It was painted using Model

Color acrylic paint.

The colors used are shown

in the photo. The painting
technique used is applying thin
coats of color to create tones
and shadows.
Finished Model
Finished Model
Finished Model
Finished Model
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