Or 0838

SOUTH CAROLINA
HANDBOOK
Down-to-Earth Tips, Guidance and Information on How to ‘Go Green’ in Your Backyard
Compost Food Web Typical Composting Bins
3rd Level Consumers
Ground Beetle
(Carabid) Centipedes
Rove beetles
(Staphylinid)
Pseudoscorpion
Ant (Formicid)
Predatory mite
Feather-winged
Beetles (Ptiliids) Roundworms 2nd Level
(Nematodes)
Consumers
Protozoa
Round Composting Bin Food Composting Cone Bin

Rotifera Soil Flatworms
(Turbellarians)
Springtails
(Collembola)
Mold mite
(Acarina)
Fly (Dipera)
Roundworms
(Nematodes)
Sowbug
(Isopod)
Earthworms
Beetle mites
Land snails/slugs Screen Composting Bin Worm Composting Bin

White worms
Potworms (Enchyraeids)
Bacteria
Actinomycetes
Molds (Fungi)
Organic residues
Three-way Composting Bin and Cinder Block Composting Bin

1st Level Consumers
SOUTH CAROLINA
HANDBOOK
Down-to-Earth Tips, Guidance and Information
on How to ‘Go Green’ in Your Backyard
S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook Printed on RECYCLED Paper DHEC OR-0838 8/17 1
Introduction Contents ...
FOREWORD....................................... 3
The S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook is designed to help you learn the PART ONE:
basics of going green in your backyard. Start with healthy soil...................... 4
Healthy Soil: An Investment
The handbook, which is the centerpiece of the S.C. Smart Gardener in Your Garden................................... 4
Program, covers a variety of topics including healthy soil, composting, Understand your soil.......................... 4
natural lawn care and smart watering as well as limiting or eliminating Protect your soil’s health.................... 5
your use of pesticides. Any of these recommendations, if turned into Enrich your soil before planting......... 5
practices by you at home, will help conserve resources, protect South How do I know good compost?......... 5
Carolina’s environment and maybe even save you money. Mulch your plantings......................... 6
Fertilize moderately
Composting at home is the perfect example. Consider the many green and responsibly.................................. 6
benefits. Compost is a valuable product that: Test your soil...................................... 8
PART TWO: Composting at Home.... 9
n reduces the amount of waste a household generates; A Guide to Managing
Organic Yard Trimmings..................... 9
n improves soil quality;
Composting Organisms...................... 9
n increases the ability of soil to hold water; The Compost Process....................... 10
n insulates plants against extreme temperatures; Factors Affecting
the Composting Process................... 11
n helps plants absorb nutrients; and Organic Materials............................. 11
n suppresses plant diseases and pests. Building a Compost Pile................... 13
Composting Alternatives.................. 15
These benefits reduce your need to water as often and reduce the need Using Compost................................. 16
to buy and use fertilizers and pesticides. That lessens potential runoff Compost Questions and Answers..... 16
pollution to nearby streams, rivers and lakes and saves you money. Composting Food Scraps.................. 18
Worm Bin Composting
In short, even the smallest individual actions can have lasting (or Vermicomposting)...................... 19
environmental benefits. This handbook provides the information, tips Summary: Successful Composting.... 20
and guidance for you to take those actions to go green at home. PART THREE: Smart Watering......... 22
Smart watering is as easy
The S.C. Department of Health and Environmental Control’s Office of as 1, 2, 3.......................................... 22
Solid Waste Reduction and Recycling (Office) produces this handbook in PART FOUR: Natural Pest,
partnership with Clemson Extension and the S.C. Department of Natural Weed and Disease Control............. 26
Resources. Basic Steps to Manage
Your Garden Naturally...................... 26
This handbook is adapted from “The Natural Lawn and Garden: Start with prevention....................... 26
Healthy Landscapes for a Healthy Environment” series developed by Reduce the need for pesticides......... 27
the City of Seattle’s Saving Water Partnership. For more information, What can you do if
a pest problem develops?................ 29
visit www.cityofseattle.net/util/rescons. All text and material are used
Use least toxic pesticides when
with permission. Photographs are provided by Ian Edelstein and Richard
physical controls don’t work............ 30
Hartlag unless otherwise noted. All illustrations are by Wilda Boyd.
Use synthetic pesticides
only as a last resort.......................... 30
In addition to this handbook, the S.C. Smart Gardener Program also What about weeds?......................... 31
includes workshops and technical assistance as well as other printed PART FIVE: The Right Plants........... 34
materials. For more information on the S.C. Smart Gardener Program, Hints about Shape, Size,
visit www.scdhec.gov/compost or call the Office at 1-800-768-7348. Color and Fragrance......................... 35
Is it evergreen or deciduous?........... 35
How to Select the Right
Plants for a Beautiful,
Thank You ... Trouble-free Garden......................... 36
PART SIX: Natural Lawn Care......... 41
Special thanks to the steering committee that helped develop this Try going natural.............................. 41
handbook. Six Steps to Natural Lawn Care......... 41
2 S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook

Foreword
By Robert Polomski
Extension Associate/Consumer Horticulture Coordinator, Department of Horticulture, Clemson University
Gardening is the most popular hobby in America This sustainable practice “feeds” your plants and
and rightfully so. It offers the benefits of beauty, improves the soil;
nourishment and exercise. Also, gardening n conserving water by watering efficiently
establishes connections with friends and neighbors at the right time and with the right amount;
in the community and serves as a bridge between
generations of young and not-so-young gardeners. n managing pests – weeds, insects, and diseases
I still have fond childhood memories of my – by learning how to avoid them and how to
grandfather sharing stories with me while we deal with pests when they appear. This section
worked side-by-side in the garden. will introduce you to non-chemical approaches,
such as managing insects by handpicking,
Whether you have a garden or a landscape at trapping or using barriers, before resorting
home or in the community, strive to become a to less toxic pesticides. When pesticides are
knowledgeable and responsible gardener. Watering, absolutely necessary, applying them properly will
fertilizing and controlling pests affect the health avoid harming beneficial insects and animals as
well as contaminating soil, surface water and
and appearance of the plants in your garden and
groundwater; and
landscape. These activities, however, also have an
impact on the environment. Therefore, gardeners n selecting the right plants for the right location
have the responsibility of safeguarding our land and in South Carolina landscapes. Growing adapted,
water resources. pest-resistant plants will make gardening less
about controlling pests and more about growing
“The S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook” contains and enjoying plants.
information and techniques that will improve your
gardening skills and help you protect and preserve At the end of most chapters you will find a list of
our environment. A few of the practices that are books, organizations, Web sites and other helpful
discussed in the handbook include: resources.
n building healthy, fertile soil with organic matter “The S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook” will inform
and selecting and using appropriate fertilizers. and inspire you. It will fuel your desire to grow
Soil is the foundation of the garden and vegetables, flowers, shrubs and trees. The handbook
landscape. Improving its fertility and selecting the may even encourage you to teach your friends and
right fertilizers will keep the plants healthy and neighbors about composting, fertilizing, watering
protect water quality; wisely and managing pests responsibly. Enjoy your
adventure as you learn how to protect our natural
n reducing waste by recycling yard trimmings and resources as you create and maintain nourishing
food scraps back into the garden and landscape. gardens and beautiful landscapes.
Contact Information ...

Readers are encouraged to contact their local Clemson Extension office for more information throughout
this handbook. A list of county offices and telephone numbers is available at www.clemson.edu/extension,
then click on COUNTY OFFICES on the left menu. Readers may call Clemson Extension’s Home and Garden
Information Center at 1-888-656-9988.
For more information about the S.C. Smart Gardener Program and other recycling programs, call DHEC’s
Office of Solid Waste Reduction and Recycling at 1-800-768-7348 or visit www.scdhec.gov/compost.
S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook 3

Part One:
Start with healthy soil.

Adding compost and other There are three general types
of soil determined by the size
organics improves your soil. of the soil particles. This affects
how the soil functions. You
Did you know that by simply improving your soil, may have more than one kind
you can beautify your lawn, garden and flower beds, of soil in different areas of
cut your water bill, improve water quality in our your garden.
streams, reduce your work outdoors and improve the
value of your home? Healthy soil is the key. Anyone Sandy soils contain large Sand
can improve the quality of their soil. It is as easy as particles that are visible to
adding compost and other organic amendments to the naked eye. They feel gritty
your soil. and will not form a ball when
squeezed in your hand. Sandy
Compost is the dark, earthy material naturally soils are loose and drain easily,
produced by decaying plants and animal waste. This but do not store water or
mix of living and dead organic matter supports an nutrients for plants.
intricate web of soil life, which in turn keeps your soil
loose, moisture-holding, fertile and well-drained. Clay soils are made of tiny
particles that feel sticky when
Clay
Here are three simple steps for improving the quality wet and dry into dense chunks
of your soil. or fine powder. They hold
nutrients and water well, but
n Before planting, amend the soil throughout the drain poorly.
entire planting area with compost.
Loamy soils are a mix of
n Mulch existing plantings with compost, leaves, sand, clay and organic matter.
grass clippings, pine bark or wood chips. When squeezed in your hand,
moist loam forms a ball
Loam
n When you need to feed plants, use natural
organic and slow-release fertilizers. which crumbles when poked
with a finger. Loamy soils
are generally loose, well-drained and able to store
Understand your soil. moisture and nutrients. Organic matter and soil life
keep plants healthy by:
Dirt is the mineral portion of the soil that supports
plants, supplies nutrients and stores water. n supplying balanced nutrients to growing plants;
Air and water are essential elements that transport n fighting plant diseases and pests;
nutrients to plants and carry away waste. They make n storing fertilizers and natural nutrients for
up half the volume of healthy soil. Compacted or gradual release, while preventing them from
heavy clay soils may not have adequate space for air washing into water bodies;
and water to move freely to plant roots.
n storing water, which reduces runoff and your
Organic matter and soil life (e.g., earthworms, garden’s irrigation needs;
beetles, bacteria, microorganisms) make up just a
n making clay soils better drained and easier to
small part of the soil volume, but are the glue that
work; and
holds healthy soil together. Decomposing plant
materials, like compost, support a great variety of n trapping and breaking down pesticide residues
beneficial organisms. and polluted runoff.

Protect your soil’s health. individual trees and shrubs in lawns or existing beds,
amend an area at least 3 feet wide, or at least four to
five times as wide as root balls more than 12 inches
Excessive use of chemicals, overwatering and soil
in diameter. Rototill large areas where digging is
compaction can harm beneficial soil organisms and impractical.
reduce their ability to keep soil healthy.
WHAT? Different types of organic amendments
n Think twice before using pesticides that may may provide special benefits for certain plants or soil
damage soil life. types, as the chart below describes. But any clean
n Don’t overfertilize. More is not better. composted or aged organic amendment will improve
the soil. The best advice is to use what is reasonably
n Avoid overwatering. Too much moisture can priced, plentiful and readily available.
promote plant disease and exclude air from roots.
n Prevent soil compaction by walking on garden
beds as little as possible, keeping heavy How do I know good compost?
equipment and cars off lawns as well as
minimizing the use of rototillers. Poor quality compost can introduce weeds to a
planting bed and make nutrients unavailable to
plants while it finishes decomposing. Signs of good
Enrich your soil before planting. compost are:
The best way to improve the soil is to add plenty of n sweet, earthy smell;
compost or other organic matter throughout the
entire planting area before planting. Thoroughly n dark brown or black color;
mixing these materials deep into the soil helps n fibrous texture (like peat); and
provide water, air and nutrients to plant roots.
n no weed sprouts, mushrooms or other growths.
WHEN? Mix in organic material before:
How much compost?
n planting lawns, perennials, trees and shrubs; (Mix into 100 SQUARE FEET of planting area.)
n replanting annual beds; LAWNS: Mix compost down to 6-inch depth.
n dividing perennials; and Clay soils: 8 cubic feet (.3 cubic yard) = 1-inch layer of compost
Sandy soils: 13 cubic feet (.5 cubic yard) = 1.5-inch layer of compost
n repotting container plants.
GARDENS: Mix compost to 10- to 12-inch depth.
HOW? Use a shovel or digging fork to mix Clay soils: 16 cubic feet (.6 cubic yard) = 2-inch layer of compost for
amendments into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil. new gardens. Use 1 inch per year in established gardens.
It is important to amend the entire planting bed – Sandy soils: 24 cubic feet (.9 cubic yard) = 3-inch layer of compost
not just small holes for each plant. When planting for new gardens. Use 1-2 inches per year in established gardens.
Which soil amendment to use?

AMENDMENT CHOICE PROS AND CONS
Best All-Purpose Materials
Compost made from yard trimmings, ecycled and readily available. Balanced nutrients. Yard trimmings can be composted
R
food scraps or barnyard manure at home. Properly composted materials are free of weeds, pests and diseases.
Leaves (composted or fresh) Free. Rich in nutrients. Usually contain a few weed seeds.
Other Materials
Aged bark or sawdust Improves drainage in clay soils. Good for trees and shrubs. Fresh materials must be
composted until dark brown in color or they can tie up nutrients and inhibit plant
growth.
Peat moss Improves moisture and nutrient storage in sandy soils, but does not support soil life
(nonrenewable resource).
Coconut coir Improves moisture and nutrient storage in sandy soils, but does not support soil life.
Renewable product from coconut palms.
Topsoil mixes ood for raised beds on top of compacted or poorly drained soil. May contain poor
G
fill soil or weeds. Best to use mixes containing only compost and clean sand.

Mulch your plantings. HOW?
n Remove weeds and grass before spreading
Mulch refers to a material placed on the soil surface. mulches.
Although usually organic, mulches also can be
n Use porous weed barriers such as woven
products such as gravel, tire mulch and landscape landscape fabric or cardboard to smother
fabric. Mulches reduce evaporation, limit weed aggressive perennial weeds before mulching.
growth and limit soil erosion that can choke streams
and fish. Most mulch products provide these benefits, HOW MUCH?
but organic mulches – such as compost or bark – can n Grass clippings: 1/2 to 1 inch deep.
be especially beneficial because earthworms and
n Compost, leaves, sawdust or medium- or
other soil life gradually break them down, mixing fine-ground bark: 1 to 2 inches deep.
them into the soil to nourish plants.
n Coarsely shredded bark, wood chips or tree
trimmings: 2 to 4 inches deep.
WHEN?
NOTE: One cubic foot of mulch covers 12 square feet 1 inch deep.
n Apply annually or as needed. One cubic yard will cover 324 square feet 1 inch deep or 108
square feet 3 inches deep.
n ulch in early summer to conserve moisture, feed
M
plants and prevent weed seeds from sprouting.
n ulch in fall to protect soil from erosion, smother
M
Fertilize moderately
weeds and retain warmth. and responsibly.
WHERE? Fertilize moderately with natural organic
n
n ulch annual and perennial planting beds as well
M and slow-release fertilizers to grow healthy,
as the surface of container plantings. easy-to-maintain plants. Too much fertilizer can
produce excess growth that is easily damaged
n over entire tree and shrub planting beds or
C by pests, wind, frost and drought. Many of the
make mulch rings at least three feet wide around nutrients in quick-release fertilizers may wash off
each plant in lawns. to pollute lakes, streams and groundwater.
Which mulch to use?

MULCH CHOICE PROS AND CONS
ANNUALS, PERENNIALS, BERRIES AND ROSES
Annuals and perennials benefit from mulches like compost, aged manure or grass clippings which feed plants quickly and can be mixed
into the soil without tying up nutrients.
Composted yard debris, bark, barnyard manure or biosolids eat appearance. Important to use aged manure or quality
N
compost that is free of weed seeds.
Leaves and grass clippings F ree and readily available. May spread weed seeds or disease. For
a finer texture, leaves can be composted or run over with a lawn
mower before being applied. May be considered unattractive.
OTHER SHRUBS AND TREES
The best mulches for shrubs and trees are coarse, woody materials that protect the soil for a year or longer, slowly releasing nutrients for
steady plant growth.
Fresh bark idy appearance and readily available. May inhibit growth of some
T
plants.
Sawdust/wood shavings sually free. Best if aged. Cannot be from chemically treated
U
lumber. May be considered unattractive.
Wood chip/shredded prunings atural look. Free and readily available. May spread weed seeds or
N
disease.
Newspapers layered under other mulch materials Decompose to feed soil. Aggressive weeds may grow through.
Woven fabric weed barrier L ong lasting, but does not break down to feed soil. May get
tangled in weeding hoes. Aggressive weeds may grow through
fabric over time.

Most established trees and shrubs do not
n Keep the following tips in mind when fertilizing.
need regular fertilization. Mulching can provide
all their nutrient needs in most cases. Even n Amend the soil in the entire planting area
heavy feeders – like roses, annuals and flowering instead of making individual holes for plants.
perennials – take in adequate nutrients through As in a forest soil, organic matter should be
yearly mulch applications. concentrated near the surface.
When choosing a fertilizer, look for the words

n n Mulch the entire area, keeping mulch away from
natural organic or slow-release on the fertilizer the base of trees and shrubs.
bag. Though these fertilizers may cost more, n Fertilize established trees and shrubs only if they
they offer better value and greater protection of are stunted or show signs of need.
water quality as more of their nutrients actually
feed plants instead of washing into streams or
groundwater. Reality Check
Natural organic fertilizers include rock
n Fertilizing should ideally be based on observed plant
phosphate and other minerals, plant products needs or soil tests. If you would like to have your soil
such as alfalfa meal and animal by-products tested, call Clemson University’s Agricultural Service
like bone or fish meal. Most nutrients in natural Laboratory at (864) 656-2068. Detailed information
fertilizers must be digested by bacteria before also is available at www.clemson.edu/agsrvlb.
they dissolve in water and plants can use them.
These nutrients are slowly released when warm
soil stimulates the bacteria, which is when they
By the Numbers ...
are needed by actively growing plants.
Soil tests recommend actual pounds of nutrients
Slow-release fertilizers such as sulfur-coated
n to apply, yet fertilizer labels list nutrient contents
urea become available as outer coatings are by percentages. The three numbers prominently
dissolved by moisture and soil bacteria when displayed on fertilizer packages are the percentages
plants are actively growing. of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. To figure
out how many pounds of fertilizer are needed to get
Quick-release fertilizers like urea and
n 1 pound of a nutrient, divide 100 by the percentage
ammonium sulfate quickly dissolve in water. They of the nutrient contained in the fertilizer. See the
wash through the soil with rain or irrigation if example below.
not immediately used by plants or absorbed by
organic matter. RECOMMENDATION: Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per
1,000 square feet.
FERTILIZER NUTRIENT CONTENT: 5:3:2 = 5 percent

Basic Fertilizing Schedule
nitrogen, 3 percent phosphorous and 2 percent
POUNDS OF potassium. Calculate: 100/5 = 20 pounds of fertilizer
NITROGEN PER
LAWN GRASS
1,000 SQ. FEET
WHEN TO APPLY per 1,000 square feet to supply 1 pound of nitrogen.
PER APPLICATION*
Bahia grass 1/2 May, July
May, June, July,
Bermuda grass 1
August
Centipede grass 1/2 May**, July
May, June, July,
St. Augustine grass 1/2
August
Zoysia grass 1/2 April, July, August
February,
Fescue, Bluegrass 1/2 to 1 September,
November
* Split into at least two or three parts
** Use a complete balanced (N-P-K) fertilizer in which some
of the nitrogen is slowly available. Fertilize centipede
grass using a low phosphorus, high potassium fertilizer.

If you use soluble fertilizers, you can reduce nutrient n The cost of a standard soil test is less than
runoff by applying half the suggested amount twice $10 for each sample. This test provides
as often as recommended. Avoid using any fertilizer scientific information on the soil pH value,
near bodies of water to prevent pollution. the current soil levels of phosphorus, potassium,
calcium, magnesium, zinc and manganese as well
as fertilizer and lime recommendations,
Test your soil. if needed.
There are several nutrients that are essential for plant Clemson Extension recommends soil testing each
growth. A soil test is used to determine the amount year. Soil samples can be taken at any time, but it is
of these nutrients in your soil. The resulting report best to sample the soil a couple of months before
also will tell you the pH value – how acidic or basic planting or fertilizing.
your soil is – and it will make a recommendation for
the amount and type of fertilizer and/or lime you
need to add. This allows you to customize your soil Soil Test Results ...
fertilizer and lime applications to your plants’ needs.
Within seven to 14 days, your soil analysis will
be mailed to you from the Agricultural Service
How to Take Soil Samples ... Laboratory. Your Clemson Extension office also will
receive a copy. Your soil analysis will include bar
n To have a soil analysis done, collect soil from graph showing the amount of soil nutrients found
12 or more places in your yard that will be and the soil pH value.
combined as one composite sample. A garden
trowel or shovel can be used to collect the The primary nutrients for healthy plant growth are
samples. The samples should include soil from nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K).
the surface to a depth of 6 inches in all areas of Secondary nutrients calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg)
gardens/landscaping or 2 to 3 inches in lawns. and sulfur (S) are required in less quantity, but
also are essential for good plant growth. Zinc and
n Follow the sampling procedure above for each manganese are micronutrients required in very small
area of your yard or garden to be tested. amounts, easily corrected by keeping the soil at the
Testing results may be very different for lawns optimum pH value.
and garden areas. You may want one sample
in your turf area, one in any foundation or The report will show how much lime (if needed)
perennial bed and one in your vegetable garden. to add for each 1,000 square feet. The comments
page will tell you what type of fertilizer you need,
n If you have a problem area where plants do not how much you need and how to apply it. These
seem to grow well, take a separate soil sample recommendations are specific to whatever type of
from that location. plant you want to grow (as indicated on the soil test
record sheet).
n Place the samples in a clean plastic bucket
and mix them thoroughly. Use clean sampling Questions?
tools because pesticide or fertilizer residues will
create misleading results. The sample must not Please contact your Clemson Extension office.
be excessively wet before it goes to the lab. It For a county-by-county list of contacts, visit
should be crumbly and break apart easily. www.clemson.edu/extension and click on COUNTY
OFFICES on the left menu.
n Bring a minimum of 2 cups of soil per sample to
your Clemson Extension office.
Credits
n Be sure to keep track of where the sample was
taken in your yard. The Clemson Extension office This section was adapted from information provided
will ask you to provide the information on a soil by Marjan Kluepfel, Home and Garden Information
test box, fill out a record sheet and check the Center, Information Specialist and Dr. Bob Lippert,
appropriate boxes for the analyses desired. Extension Soil Fertility Specialist, Clemson University.

Part Two:
Composting at Home
Composting Organisms
A Guide to Managing
Most composting organisms fall into two general
Organic Yard Trimmings* groups – microorganisms and invertebrates. Among
the microorganisms, aerobic bacteria are the most
Garden and yard trimmings (e.g, leaves, grass important in terms of beginning the decomposition
clippings) account for up to 20 percent of the process and generating heat.
waste disposed of in landfills. Obviously, it
makes sense to divert these materials to mulch The organisms present in a compost pile can be
or compost. Through these processes organic separated into three types. First-level consumers
trimmings can be recycled to improve and attract and become food for second-level consumers.
beautify the garden and landscape. Third-level consumers (e.g., centipedes, rove
Composting is a biological process in which beetles, ground beetles, ants) prey on second-level
microorganisms convert organic materials (such consumers. See the “Compost Food Web” on the
as leaves, grass, manure and food scraps) into an front inside cover.
end product called compost – a dark, crumbly,
earthy-smelling form of organic matter that Bacteria are one-celled colorless organisms that
reveals no hint of its origin. Composting is the cannot make their own food through photosynthesis.
same process that decays leaves and other organic
remains in nature, except that composting
controls the conditions so that the materials
decompose faster.
Composting can occur under either aerobic (in
the presence of oxygen) or anaerobic (without
oxygen) conditions. Microorganisms involved in
aerobic composting require oxygen. The amount
of oxygen needed in the compost pile must be
greater than 5 percent. (By comparison, fresh
air is about 21 percent oxygen.) Anaerobic
microorganisms prefer an absence of oxygen.
Aerobic decomposition is the preferred
composting technique because it is the most
rapid and efficient.
When mixed with soil, compost increases the
organic matter content, improves the physical
properties of the soil and supplies essential
nutrients, enhancing the soil’s ability to support
plant growth. The practice of applying materials
such as compost, leaves or grass clippings to
the soil surface is called mulching. Mulching
conserves moisture, controls weeds, reduces
erosion, improves appearance and keeps the soil
from gaining or losing heat too rapidly.
* From the “S.C. Master Gardening Training Manual” prepared

by Robert Polomski, Extension Associate, Consumer
Horticulture Coordinator, Department of Horticulture,
Clemson University

They reproduce by splitting, producing billions of blue-gray to a light green, powdery or cobweb-like
offspring over a relatively short time, although the layer in the outer 4 to 6 inches of compost. Fungi
life span of any particular generation may only be 20 generally intermingle with the actinomycetes.
to 30 minutes long. As a group, they can eat almost
any type of organic matter, although specific bacterial When the inner pile starts to heat up, most
populations will differ from pile to pile depending on invertebrates are killed or migrate to cooler areas of
the makeup of the pile and the decomposition stage. the pile. In the cooler areas, nematodes prey upon
bacteria, protozoa and fungal spores. Larger mites
Psychrophilic bacteria are active when a pile is and springtails also feed on fungi. The life cycle
first made, especially in the fall when the weather within the pile continues to become more complex as
is cool. Optimum activity occurs at about 55˚F, but predaceous mites and pseudoscorpions feed on other
these bacteria are still active at 0˚F. The bacterial mites as well as nematodes. Complex invertebrates,
activity creates heat and sets the stage for the most like centipedes and ground beetles, feed on lower
efficient decomposers, the mesophilic bacteria, life forms, and decaying plant life in the pile attracts
which are most active when the temperature of the sowbugs, snails, slugs and earthworms.
pile is between 70˚F and 100˚F. As the temperature
increases, thermophilic bacteria take over from 113˚F
to 155˚F. Earthworms
Actinomycetes and fungi, similar to bacteria, give If bacteria are the champion microscopic
the compost pile its faintly earthy odor. At the end decomposers, then the heavyweight champion is
of the composting process, they may appear as a doubtlessly the earthworm. Ever since it became
known that the earthworm spends most of its time
tilling and enriching the soil, pages of praise have
been written on this creature. The great English
The Compost Process naturalist Charles Darwin was the first to suggest that
all the fertile areas of this planet have at least once
Composting is the biological decomposition of passed through the bodies of earthworms.
organic matter. While decomposition occurs
naturally, it can be accelerated and improved by The earthworm consists mainly of an alimentary
human involvement. To produce a high-quality canal which ingests, decomposes and deposits casts
end product, it is important to understand the continually during the earthworm’s active periods.
composting process. The microorganisms and Fresh casts are markedly higher in bacteria, organic
invertebrates that decompose yard trimmings and
food scraps require oxygen and water.
The heat produced by bacterial activity increases

the temperature in the compost pile to as high
as 160˚F. As the process nears completion (after
one month to one year), the pile temperature
once again approaches the surrounding air
temperature.
Nitrogen contained in yard trimmings and food

scraps are necessary for the microorganisms
to carry out decomposition efficiently. The
conversion of carbon in waste to carbon dioxide
results in a reduction in both the weight and the
volume of the pile.
Finished compost is composed of microorganisms

and invertebrates, their skeletons and
decomposition products and organic matter that
is not broken down by these organisms.

material, available nitrogen, calcium and magnesium, “browns” and “greens,” or better yet, as “dry” or
and available phosphorus and potassium than soil “fresh” to remember which is which. These C:N
itself. ratios are significant because microbial activity
is greatest when the C:N ratio is 30:1. The tiny
Earthworms thrive on compost and contribute composters need about one part nitrogen for every
to its quality through both physical and chemical 30 parts carbon.
processes. They reproduce readily in a well-managed
pile. Since earthworms can play such a large part in Average Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N)
composting, smart gardeners adjust their composting Ratios for Organic Materials
methods to take full advantage of the earthworm’s
GREENS/ C:N BROWNS/ C:N
special talents. NITROGEN RATIO CARBON RATIO
Pig manure 5-7:1 Leaves 30-80:1
Food Web of the Compost Pile Poultry manure 10:1 Cornstalks 60:1
(fresh)
Some of the visible creatures in the compost pile Alfalfa or sweet 12:1 Straw 40-100:1
feed directly on organic wastes. Others wait until clover hay
microorganisms have begun the process. See the Vegetable scraps 12-20:1 Bark 100-130:1
“Compost Food Web” on the front inside cover. Poultry manure 13-18:1 Paper 150-200:1
with litter
Factors Affecting Coffee grounds

Grass clippings
20:1
12-25:1
Sawdust
Wood chips
400:1
800:1
the Composting Process Cow manure 20:1
Horse manure 25:1
All natural organic material eventually decomposes. Horse manure 30-60:1
The length of the breakdown process, however, can with litter
be accelerated through composting, or rather, the
efficient “farming of microorganisms.” Any factor SOURCE: Clemson Extension Master Gardener Program
that slows or halts the growth of these microbes
also impedes the composting process. The following Remember, this ratio describes the chemical
factors affect the length of the composting process: composition of a material and does not mean you
need 30 times the volume of brown to green.
n organic materials (carbon and nitrogen
contents of the food source); Pretend you are filling your compost bin. You have
leaves (60:1), food scraps (15:1) and grass clippings
n volume; (17:1). Add the three numbers on the carbon side
n aeration; of the ratio (60, 15, 17) and divide by the number
of materials (i.e., three) 92 ÷ 3 = about 31:1. Some
n moisture; people think of it as two parts green to one part
n particle size; and brown. Many people have success with equal parts
green and brown.
n temperatures reached during composting.
The dominant organic waste in most backyard
Organic Materials compost piles is leaves. Grass clippings may
compact and restrict air flow. Branches and twigs
All organic materials contain carbon and nitrogen. greater than 1/4 inch in diameter should be put
One of the most critical factors in composting is the through a shredder/chipper first. Spent plants and
balance of carbon and nitrogen within the plant trimmings from vegetable gardens and flower beds
waste added to the pile. The carbon to nitrogen are excellent sources of nitrogen for the compost
ratio is commonly expressed as “C:N” or “C/N.” pile and may be added with small amounts of soil.
Microorganisms require carbon for energy and Food scraps (e.g., vegetable peelings, coffee grounds,
nitrogen to make protein. Leaves, straw and sawdust eggshells) are appropriate additions to the compost
are high in carbon while grass clippings, manure, pile. Other organic materials used to add nutrients
coffee grounds and vegetable scraps are higher to the pile are blood meal, bone meal and livestock
in nitrogen. It helps to think of these materials as manure.

Volume
A pile should be large enough to hold heat and small enough to admit
air to its center. As a rule of thumb, the minimum dimensions of a pile
should be 3 X 3 X 3 feet (1 cubic yard) to hold heat.
Aeration
Oxygen is required for microbes to decompose organic waste efficiently.
Some decomposition can occur in the absence of oxygen (anaerobic
conditions); however, the process is slow and foul odors may develop.
Also, anaerobic decomposition leads to the production of chemical
compounds that are toxic to plants. Organic matter allowed to
decompose anaerobically should be exposed to air for several days or
sometimes months to complete the composting process and
to destroy any plant-toxic compounds. Because of the
odor problem, composting without oxygen is not usually
recommended in a residential setting.
Mixing or turning the pile once or twice a month provides

the necessary oxygen and significantly hastens the
composting process. A pile that is not mixed or turned may
take three to four times longer to decompose. Raising the pile off
the ground allows air to be drawn through the pile as the material
decomposes. Coarse materials should be placed on the bottom as
the pile is built. Another way to introduce air is to place perforated
PVC pipes within the pile.
Moisture
Adequate moisture is essential for microbial activity. Materials in a dry
compost pile will not decompose efficiently. If rainfall is limited, the
pile must be watered periodically to maintain a steady decomposition
rate. Enough water should be added to completely moisten the pile,
but overwatering should be avoided. Too much moisture will force
out the air and suffocate the microorganisms, resulting in anaerobic
conditions, slowing down the decomposition process and causing foul
odors. Water the pile so it is damp but does not remain soggy. Squeeze
compost in your hand to judge moisture content. If the material feels
like a damp sponge and yields only a few drops when squeezed tightly,
its moisture content is sufficient. Piles that are too wet should be turned
to increase air content; piles that are too dry should be turned and
sprinkled with a hose.
Particle Size
The more surface area the microorganisms have to
work, the faster the materials will decompose.
Grinding the organic material before composting
greatly reduces decomposition time. A shredder
is useful for chipping or shredding most yard trimmings
and is essential if brush or sticks are to be composted. A
low-cost method of reducing the size of fallen tree leaves
is to mow the lawn before raking. Windrowing the leaves

into long narrow piles 1 foot high will make the compost pile near a well or on a slope that drains
shredding process more efficient. If the mower has to surface water, such as a stream or a pond.
an appropriate bag attachment, the shredded leaves Locating the pile too close to trees also may create
can be collected directly. A few twigs and sticks can problems, as roots may grow into the bottom of
be left in the pile for aeration. the pile, making turning and handling the compost
difficult.
Temperature
The pile will do best where it is protected from drying
The temperature of the compost pile is very winds and is in partial sunlight to help provide heat.
important to the biological activity taking place. The more the pile is exposed to wind and sun, the
Heat generated by microorganisms as they break more water it will need.
down organic materials increases compost pile
temperatures. The microbes that are so essential There are no set rules when building a compost pile.
to the decomposition process fall into two Pay attention to the items covered in the “Factors
categories: mesophilic, those that live and function Affecting the Composting Process” on page 11
in temperatures of 70˚F to 100˚F, and thermophilic, and use good judgement and common sense. The
those that thrive at temperatures from 113˚F to following two recipes should help you create a “fast”
155˚F. While high temperatures have the advantage or “slow” compost pile.
of killing disease organisms and weed seeds,
moderate temperatures encourage the growth of ‘Fast’ Compost Recipe
mesophilic bacteria, the most effective decomposers.
Pile temperatures between 90˚F and 140˚F indicate Fast compost is labor intensive and requires a lot of
rapid composting. Temperatures greater than 140˚F turning. Maintaining a 30:1 carbon to nitrogen ratio
kill or reduce the activity of many of the most active, is very important in fast composting. This method can
beneficial organisms. If temperatures exceed 140˚F, produce compost in a couple of months or less.
the pile should be turned to cool it. If the pile does
not reach at least 120˚F, more nitrogen or water may The ingredients and tools needed include:
be needed.
n greens, fresh material (nitrogen);
Building a Compost Pile n browns, dry material (carbon);

n water;
The compost pile should be located near the place
where the compost will be used. Composting is best n garden soil (optional);
done in a location screened from your view and that
of neighbors. n a pitchfork;
n a tarp or cover (optional); and
Good locations for the pile are near the garden or
between the garage and house. Do not locate the n a hotbed thermometer (optional).

‘Fast’ Compost Recipe: Step-by-Step 3. MIX IT UP. Use your pitchfork to turn the
materials added to the pile. When you’re done,
1. COLLECT MATERIAL to create a 1-cubic-yard make the top of the pile slant to the center to
pile (3 X 3 X 3 feet). Chop or shred any coarse catch rainfall. At times, you may want to cover
materials to increase their surface area. Start the the pile with a plastic covering or tarp to regulate
pile with a 4 to 6 inch layer of “browns” (dry), the amount of moisture entering the pile. The
high-carbon materials (high C:N ratio). Next, cover should not rest on the pile because it may
add a 4- to 6-inch layer of “greens” (fresh), cut off oxygen.
high-nitrogen materials (low C:N ratio). Add
additional nitrogen if necessary. Vegetative food 4. CONSIDER THE POROSITY OF THE MIXTURE. If
scraps should be added in this layer. If food dense materials, such as manure or wet leaves
scraps are included, an additional thin layer of are used, wood chips, straw or dry bulky material
soil, sawdust, leaves, straw or compost should be should be added to improve porosity. The
added to absorb odors. thickness of the layers will depend on the C:N
ratio of the materials being used. Mix the layers.
2. LAYER MATERIAL until the pile is about 3
to 4 feet high. Remember to water each layer 5. CONDUCT A SQUEEZE TEST to evaluate the
as you construct the pile. Apply about a moisture content of the compost. Add water until
quarter-inch layer of soil or finished compost squeezing a handful will yield one or two drops
between layers. One reason for adding soil of water. Adding too much water may leach out
is to ensure that the pile is inoculated with nutrients.
decomposing microbes. The use of soil in a
compost pile is optional. In most cases, organic ‘Slow’ Compost Recipe
yard trimmings such as grass clippings or leaves
contain enough microorganisms on the surface Slow composting takes the least labor and time of
to cause decomposition. Studies have shown that the many ways to compost. It’s ideal for people who
there is no advantage in purchasing a compost don’t have a large amount of yard trimmings to
starter or inoculum. The microbes already in the compost all at once. This method can take from six
soil and on organic materials are just as efficient months to two years or longer to produce compost,
in decomposing the waste as those provided by so be patient.
the commercial inoculum. One way to ensure
that activator microbes are present in the new Stacking cinder blocks on three sides (as pictured on
compost is to mix in some old compost as the page 13) makes an inexpensive bin. A standard-sized
pile is prepared. garbage can with eight or more slots in the sides
Troubleshooting Tips for Composting Yard Trimmings

SYMPTOMS CAUSE SOLUTIONS
The pile smells like rotten eggs or garbage. The pile is too wet. There is not enough air. Turn pile and add dry stalks, leaves or straw.
The pile is dry inside. There is not enough water in the pile. Turn and moisten materials, then cover pile.
There is too much woody material in the Mix in fresh greens or nitrogen fertilizer
pile. such as urea, blood meal or chicken
manure. Chop or remove coarse woody
materials.
The pile is too small. Add material to fill bin or make 3 X 3 X 3

feet pile.
The pile is damp inside, but not The pile lacks “greens.” Mix in fresh greens or nitrogen fertilizer.
composting. Chop or remove excess woody material.
The pile has shrunken, but materials are not The outside of pile is dry, but inside has Use material that has not decomposed
decomposing. probably composted. in a new batch.
The pile has clumps of slimy grass and an The pile has too much fresh grass. Leave grass clippings on lawn or mix in
ammonia smell. brown leaves or straw.

of the can for ventilation and five in the bottom for the decomposition of resistant compounds, organic
drainage also can be used. In all cases, elevate the acids, large particles and clumps of material that
bin 1 foot off the ground or start the pile with a 3- to remain after active composting. As a result, the pH
6-inch layer of small twigs or chopped corn stalks to shifts toward neutral, the C:N ratio decreases and the
improve air movement and drainage. If you choose concentration of humus increases. When the compost
not to use a container, cover the heap with a layer of pile’s temperature no longer reheats after turning,
yard trimmings or soil to prevent moisture loss. the curing stage begins. Curing may be considered
complete when the pile temperature falls close to
The ingredients and tools needed are the same as air temperature (without the pile being anaerobic or
those for “fast” compost. Add greens and browns overly dry).
to the pile whenever they become available. Turn
the pile occasionally to mix the materials together Unfinished compost can be toxic, especially to
to prevent them from clumping together and to seedlings and newly established plants. Therefore,
avoid anaerobic decomposition. You will know that compost must be allowed to decompose thoroughly
materials are decaying without oxygen by the foul before use.
odor: a tell-tale sign that it is time to turn the pile.
Look for ready-to-use compost near the bottom of
the pile.
Composting Alternatives
Curing
n SHEET COMPOSTING in the garden
Curing is an important and often neglected stage involves applying raw composting materials
of composting during which the compost matures directly on top of the soil in layers. Shredded
at low, mesophilic temperatures. Curing finishes organic matter can be applied between
plants as a type of mulch and allowed to
decompose slowly. Material can then be
incorporated directly into the soil after frost
in the fall.
n TRENCH COMPOSTING involves digging
a trench about 8 to 12 inches deep
and filling it up with shredded organic
materials. Vegetable and other food scraps
(excluding meat, bones and fatty foods)
and yard trimmings (especially diseased
or insect-infested plants) can be used.
Microorganisms and earthworms will slowly
convert these materials to usable organic
matter. Covered trenches are often used as
paths between rows of vegetables while the
organic matter is decomposing.
n COMPOST HOLE DIGGING is similar to
trench composting, except that it involves
smaller areas. A post-hole digger can be
used to make holes between vegetables or
ornamental shrubs and trees. Fill the holes
with food scraps and cover them with soil.
By the following spring, the organic matter
should be decomposed.
n VERMICOMPOSTING is the production of
compost using worms to digest organic
waste.

Using Compost the potting mix should be compost. Too much
compost may result in waterlogging and poor
aeration for roots.
n SOIL AMENDMENT: Compost is used as an
organic amendment to improve physical,
Although proper composting destroys most weed
chemical and biological properties of soil. Adding
seeds and disease-causing organisms, some may
compost will increase the moisture-holding
still survive because of incomplete mixing. To
capacity of sandy soils, thereby reducing drought
obtain a completely pasteurized compost for use
damage to plants. When added to heavy clay
in the potting mixture, heat the material in an
soils, compost improves drainage and aeration
oven at 160˚F for 30 minutes.
and reduces waterlogging damage to plants.
Compost increases the ability of the soil to hold
n MULCH: A 2- to 3-inch layer of compost can
and release essential nutrients. The activity of
be used as a mulch around vegetables and
earthworms and soil microorganisms beneficial to
ornamental plants. Extend the mulch layer up
plant growth is promoted with compost. Other
to or beyond the drip line of shrubs and trees.
benefits of adding compost include improved
The drip line is defined by the outer edge of the
seedling emergence and water infiltration
plant’s branches. Applying compost will help
because of a reduction in soil crusting. Over time,
conserve moisture and keep the soil cool in the
yearly additions of compost create a desirable
summer and warm in the winter.
soil structure, making the soil much easier to
work. For improving a soil’s physical properties,
incorporate 1 to 2 inches of well-decomposed
compost into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil. Use
Compost Questions and Answers
less for sandy soils and more for clay soils. Q. What is compost?
To a limited extent, compost is a source of A. Compost is the partially decomposed remains of

nutrients. Nutrients are slowly released from plants. In its final state of decomposition, it is
compost and, often, the nutrient content is too referred to as humus.
low to supply all the nutrients necessary for plant
growth. It is usually necessary to supplement Q. Does compost have any value as a fertilizer?
compost with some fertilizer, particularly
A. Yes. Decomposed materials have some nitrogen,
nitrogen. If the C:N ratio of the compost is less
phosphorous and potassium content, though in
than 20 to 1, nitrogen tends to be released rather
small amounts. The addition of garden fertilizers
than tied up. For the majority of yard trimmings
to speed decomposition supplies some of the
composts, the C:N ratio is less than 20 to 1.
nutrients as well.
Thus, while compost may not supply significant
amounts of nitrogen, especially in the short run,
nitrogen tie-up should not be a major concern Q. Can compost be used as a substitute for
fertilizer in the garden?
with most yard trimmings. About 1 cup of
ammonium nitrate (0.15 pound actual nitrogen) A. It can be used as a source of nutrients; however,
per 3 bushels (100 pounds) compost is required there are not enough nutrients present in
to provide the additional nitrogen needed by compost to supply the needs of vegetable crops.
most garden plants. The lack of large amounts of nutrients in compost
is far outweighed by the other advantages of the
Have your soil tested annually to determine organic material.
whether supplemental phosphorus and
potassium are required. The pH of most composts Q. Is it necessary to add lime (calcium) to the
made from yard trimmings is usually 7.0. The compost pile?
neutral pH of compost should not pose any
problems when mixed into the soil and, in fact, is A. No. Too much lime may cause a loss of nitrogen
beneficial to plants growing in acidic soils. from the pile. Most finished compost will have a
nearly neutral pH.
n POTTING SOIL: Compost can be used as a
component of potting mixes. Generally, no more Q. Is it necessary to add inoculum to the compost
than one quarter to one third by volume of pile to activate the composting process?

A. No. Inoculation with prepared microbes may Q. How do you gauge the proper moisture
hasten the process, but there are enough content for composting?
microbes present in the material being
composted to initiate the process. A. Materials should feel like a wrung-out sponge,
moist but when squeezed in your hand no more
than a drop or two of water should come out.
Q. Should compost piles be covered? Some very dry materials (straw, cardboard and
A. A compost pile that has a good moisture content others) may need prolonged soaking to reach
(like a damp, wrung-out sponge) will benefit adequate moisture levels.
from being covered with plastic or carpet scraps.
Covering helps to keep piles moist in summer and Q. Do compost piles have offensive odors?
prevents them from getting too soggy in winter.
A. In general, compost does not produce offensive
If a pile is too dry or soggy to start, covering may
odors if composted in a bin with adequate
make the problem worse.
ventilation. If animal manure is used, some odor
may be detected in the first or second day, but
Q. What are the best materials for composting? will dissipate as the process accelerates.
A. Most plant material can be used for composting.
Leaves are perhaps the best material because of Q. What can be done about a smelly pile?
their availability and organic content; however,
A. Smelly piles are most often caused by poor
other types of organic materials, such as animal
aeration. The bacteria which live in such
manure (no dog or cat feces), grass clippings,
“anaerobic” piles produce a rotten egg smell.
vegetable scraps, small tree limbs and shrubbery
Smelly piles should be turned to introduce air and
trimmings, coffee grounds and rotted sawdust
encourage “aerobic” bacteria. Wet, compacted
are considered good composting materials.
areas should be broken up with a pitch fork and
Invasive weeds (e.g., Florida betony, nutsedge)
coarse, dry materials – such as straw or corn
should be left on pavement to thoroughly dry stalks – may be mixed in to aid drainage, absorb
out before composting. Avoid composting moisture and create air spaces.
feces, meat and dairy products or materials
contaminated with chemicals.
Q. When is compost ready to use?
Q. How do you know when you have the A. When the pile returns to normal temperature and
best carbon to nitrogen ratio (C:N) for fast the organic material crumbles easily, compost
composting? is ready to use. At this point you should not be
able to recognize the material that you put in
A. Experimentation is the best way to get a good the original pile. The composting process in the
sense of carbon and nitrogen ratios in different average pile takes about 6 to 8 months, though
materials. Composting books often have tables an ideally mixed and tended pile may take less
giving some rough figures. See the chart on than 8 weeks to become compost.
page 11 for carbon-to-nitrogen ratios for organic
materials.
Q. How can I use compost?
Q. Is it necessary to shred materials for the A. Compost can be used to enrich the garden, to
compost pile? improve the soil around trees and shrubs, to
amend the soil for house plants and seed-starting
A. The finer the material that goes into the compost mixes (when screened) or to top-dress lawns.
pile, the quicker and more thorough the
decomposition.
Q. What is the difference between compost and
mulch?
Q. Do compost piles need turning?
A. Compost is decomposed organic material.
A. Yes and no. Turning the pile will supply more Mulches are materials – organic or inorganic –
oxygen for the microbe population and will shift used as a surface treatment on soil to suppress
undecomposed material on the edge of the pile weeds, hold moisture and prevent erosion.
to the center where it too will be decomposed. Compost is just one of many mulch materials.
Compost can be created without turning, though Other mulches include gravel, wood chips,
it will take longer. plastic, fabrics and sawdust.

Q. How can wood/bark chips be made to Materials to Avoid in a Compost Pile ...
compost faster?
A. Rechipping to open more surface area Some materials may pose a health hazard or create a
and adding nitrogen will both speed up nuisance and, therefore, should not be used to make
decomposition of wood chips to some extent. compost. Human or pet feces should not be used
because they can transmit diseases. Although animal
Q. Why can’t dairy products, meat and fish scraps remains can be safely decomposed in commercial
be composted? composters, wastes such as meat, bones, grease,
peanut butter, whole eggs and dairy products should
A. Animal products attract flies, rodents and other be avoided in home compost piles because they may
pests which carry diseases. attract rodents.
Q. Do compost “tumblers” work?

What CAN be composted at home?
A. Compost tumblers work very efficiently if wastes
are chopped, moistened and contain adequate n GREENS (FRESH MATERIAL): Fruit and
nitrogen. Tumblers with flat sides or internal vegetable scraps, bread and grains, coffee
bafflers are recommended since they mix and grounds and filters, tea bags and trimmings
aerate materials more thoroughly than those with from yard
smooth sides.
n BROWNS (DRY MATERIAL): Non-recyclable
paper, paperboard, fall leaves, clean sawdust and
Composting Food Scraps wood shavings
n Burying food scraps in the garden is a simple

method requiring no special tools. What CANNOT be composted at home?
n Food “digesters” provide a convenient and n MEAT, FISH, POULTRY OR DAIRY PRODUCTS: Put
pest-resistant way to compost food scraps. them in your household garbage.
n Worm bins are a fun and interesting method for n EVERGREEN LEAVES, SAWDUST OR SHAVINGS
composting food scraps to produce rich compost FROM PAINTED OR TREATED WOOD AND
and worms for fishing. COATED PAPER
How to Store Food Scraps

in the Kitchen ...
A plastic container with a lid is great for storing
food scraps in the kitchen until you are ready to
take them outside. Empty the container into your
worm bin, a hole in the garden or compost bin
every two days so food scraps don’t start to smell.
A 5-gallon bucket with tight lid can be used

outside to store food scraps for longer periods if it
is inconvenient to add them to the compost, but
odors and flies may become a problem – especially
in summer.
Sprinkling an inch or two of sawdust, peat or

coconut coir on top of layers helps prevent flies and
odors. Food scraps also can be stored in a plastic
container in the freezer to control these problems.
Do what works best for you.

Worm Bin Composting n STEP 1: GET A BIN. Use a sturdy wood or plastic
box with a tight-fitting lid to keep out pests and
(or Vermicomposting) retain moisture. Holes drilled in the bottom are
essential for drainage. A box about 1 foot deep
Worm bins are a fascinating way to turn food scraps is best, since worms must live near the surface
into high-quality compost. Follow these easy steps to breathe. Worm bins can be made from old
to start your own worm bin. Read Mary Appelhof’s cupboards, crates or plywood. Bins made from
book, “Worms Eat My Garbage,” for more detailed recycled plastic are available through mail-order
information on composting with worms. catalogs or your local discount store. Worm bins
should have 1 square foot of surface for each
pound of food scraps added per week. A 2 X 4
X 1 feet deep worm box can process about 8
pounds of food scraps a week – usually enough
for two people. Weigh your food scraps for a
few weeks before buying or building a bin. Keep
worm bins in a basement or enclosed garage if
possible. Cold winter weather and hot summer
temperatures can dramatically slow worm
composting. If the bin is kept outside, find a spot
that is shady in summer but gets some winter
sun. Outdoor bins can be insulated with rigid
foam insulation tacked to the lid and sides.
n STEP 2: FILL THE BIN WITH BEDDING.
Carbon-rich bedding supplies worms with a
balanced diet and helps prevent flies and odors.
Good beddings include moist autumn leaves,
shredded cardboard or newspaper, straw or
untreated coarse sawdust and wood shavings. A
mix of these works best. Immerse dry bedding in
a garbage can full of water for several minutes
Worm Bin Troubleshooting

SYMPTOMS CAUSE SOLUTIONS
The bin smells like rotten eggs or garbage. The pile is too wet. Mix in dry leaves, peat moss or sawdust.
Meat, fish, dairy products or pet waste has Keep these items out of the bin.
been added to the bin.
Food scraps have not been covered. Cover food with bedding when added.
The bedding is dry and has few worms. There is not enough water in the pile. Mix and moisten the bedding. Cover with
plastic or cardboard. Move the bin out of
sunlight.
Food scraps are accumulating. There is too much food in the bin. Limit the amount of food scraps added.
Add more worms. Build another bin.
The bin is too hot or too cold. Move the bin to a cool basement or garage.
Keep the bin filled with bedding.
Maggots are in the bin. Meat, fish, dairy products or pet waste has Keep these items out of the bin. Cover
been added to the bin. bedding with cardboard or plastic.
Fruit flies swarm out when the bin is Food scraps are exposed. Always cover food scraps with bedding.
opened. If you still have fruit flies, add an inch of
sawdust or peat moss to the top of the
bedding or cover it with cardboard.
Worms are crawling up the sides of the bin. There is too much food in the bin, the Limit the amount of food scraps added.
bedding is too wet or the contents are fully Build another bin or add dry bedding.
decomposed.

before adding to worm bin or mix and spray with for fishing. To harvest more worms to start bins,
hose until everything is moist like a wrung-out shovel a few gallons of compost into a pile in
sponge. Fill the bin to the top with loose bedding bright sunlight. After 15 minutes, scrape away
to keep the worms from freezing in winter or the outer layer of compost until the worms are
getting too hot in summer. (TIP: Save a few bags visible. Repeat until the worms are concentrated
of leaves each fall to rebed your bin later.) at the bottom of the pile.
n STEP 3: ADD WORMS. Red worms – also known
as “red wrigglers” or “manure worms” – are Stackable Worm Bins
best for composting. “Earthworms” or “night
crawlers” are not suitable for composting. A number of worm bins are for sale that use stacking
Start with about 1 pound of worms (about trays to take advantage of the worms’ tendency
1 pint of pure worms) to keep up with food to feed on the surface and migrate out of finished
scraps. Get worms from a friend’s bin or visit compost. The top tray is fed fresh food scraps.
www.wormfarmingsecrets.com for sources. When material in the bottom level is decomposed
and worms move up into fresh materials, the tray is
n STEP 4: BURY FOOD SCRAPS. Pull aside bedding removed, harvested and then rebedded and replaced
to make holes or trenches large enough to on top.
lay food scraps 1 to 2 inches thick and deep
enough to cover scraps with a few inches of
bedding. Bury in a different spot each week to Summary:
give the worms a balanced diet of food scraps
and bedding. Place a sheet of plastic or moist Successful Composting
newspaper on top of the bedding to keep
moisture in and flies out. It’s not a secret. Simply place garden scraps in a
pile and bacteria, bugs and fungi will turn it into
n STEP 5: HARVEST COMPOST AND WORMS. compost, but it may take a year or longer. For quicker
After 6 to 12 months, most of the bedding composting, provide the decomposer organisms with
should look like dark, rich soil. To harvest proper food and conditions.
compost and rebed the bin, push the compost
to one side (it shrinks as it composts) and fill the 1. A BALANCED DIET: Composting bacteria thrive
empty side with fresh bedding. Then bury food on a mix of succulent “greens” like fruit and
scraps only in the new bedding until any food vegetable scraps, annual weeds and flowers, and
scraps in the old bedding finish decomposing and on woodier “browns,” such as autumn leaves and
most worms have migrated to the fresh food. corn stalks. An equal mix of greens and browns
Harvest finished compost and replace with fresh works well. Too many greens can produce a
bedding. It is simple to pick out a few worms smelly, soggy mess. A pile that is mostly browns
To Compost or Not to Compost?

DO COMPOST IN PILES OR BINS DO NOT COMPOST AT HOME
GREENS (FRESH MATERIAL)
Fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, eggshells, Clippings recently treated with “Weed & Feed” or other herbicide – put in
etc. curbside yard waste collection.
Fresh garden trimmings, flowers and plant leaves Insect-infested or diseased plants – put in curbside yard waste collection.
Barnyard manure (horse, cow, chicken) Pet feces (dog, cat, rodent, exotic bird)
Garden vegetable leaves and stalks, fallen fruit Meat, fish, poultry, dairy products – put in disposal or household garbage.
Weed leaves, stems and flowers Weed seed heads and roots of spreading weeds like ivy, buttercup, morning
glory and quackgrass – put in curbside yard waste collection.
House plants and potting mix No meat, bones or fat
BROWNS (DRY MATERIAL)
Autumn leaves Large amounts of evergreen leaves, needles or cones
Twigs and stalks Branches over 1/2 inch in diameter; berry brambles, rose stems, holly
Coarse sawdust or shavings Sawdust from plywood, treated or painted wood
Shredded paper, cardboard, paper towels Coated photo or copy paper, colored paper, waxed cardboard

takes a long time to decompose. The chart on the recommended, especially for children and
previous page lists common greens and browns. teachers.
2. BITE-SIZED PIECES: Decomposers can break n “Consumer Reports Magazine” reviews
down small pieces more quickly than large ones. low-pesticide gardening, shredders and mulching
For rapid composting, chop woody stalks with
mowers as well as other topics related to
a shovel or machete, run over them with a lawn
composting.
mower or put them through a shredder.
3. MOISTURE: Materials should be moist but not n “Home Composting Made Easy” by C. Forrest
dripping wet – like a wrung-out sponge. Spray McDowell and Tricia Clark-McDowell – In South
and mix dry trimmings as they are added to the Carolina, call 1-800-768-7348 for a FREE copy.
pile. Keep compost piles in the shade and cover This booklet covers the basics for starting and
open piles with plastic. maintaining a backyard composting bin. It
includes helpful tips, plus the DOs and DON’Ts for
4. FRESH AIR: If materials are too wet or proper bin maintenance.
compacted, composting will slow down and
may create bad odors. Start with a good mix of
n “Let It Rot! The Gardener’s Guide to
materials, including some coarse stalks or sticks
Composting” by Stu Campbell – A classic
so air can flow through. Let air into soggy piles
covering all the basics and written in a highly
by turning them and mixing in coarse stalks or
readable style. It includes good discussion of
dry straw.
how to not be obsessed with high temperatures
5. PILE SIZE: A pile that is 1 cubic yard (3 X 3 X 3 (>140˚F) in the home pile and the uses of
feet) is ideal. Smaller piles dry out quickly, though compost.
bins with solid sides and a lid help keep small
piles moist. Larger piles may need to be turned to n “Organic Gardening Magazine” is an extremely
let air into the middle. valuable and respected resource offering
extensive information of landscaping, composting
6. PREVENTING PESTS AND OTHER PROBLEMS:
and organic living. For more information, visit
Avoid materials that may attract pests, create
www.organicgardening.com.
odors or cause other problems. See the chart on
page 20.
n “The Rodale Guide to Composting” by Jerry
Minnich and Marjorie Hunt – A “Composter’s
Books and Resources Bible” of over 380 pages, this book looks at
various aspects of composting. The chapter
There is a small library of books devoted to on methods gives the pros and cons of several
composting. In addition, most garden books have different ways to make compost.
a section on composting. Here is a selected list of
books you may find helpful. Check with your public n “The Urban/Suburban Composter: The
library. Complete Guide to Backyard, Balcony and
Apartment Composting” by Mark Cullen and
n “Backyard Composting: Your Complete Guide Lorraine Johnson – A pleasant book that, in spite
to Recycling Yard Clippings” (no author listed) of its title, covers the basics much like the other
– It covers the basics and includes a brief books. It contains a helpful chart comparing
discussion of permaculture and other interesting different systems for people in different living
agricultural ideas. situations, a few ideas for very small-scale
composting and a section on vermiculture.
n “Compost Critters” by Bianca Lavies – A
wonderful children’s book built around the n “Worms Eat My Garbage” by Mary Appelhof –
author’s spectacular photos that provide a A delightful book with illustrations, which
fascinating look at the critters who live in will help you with vermiculturing and
your compost heap. Also shows the author’s vermicomposting. Many experts consider this
working compost pile at various stages. It is a classic.

Part Three:
Smart Watering
Smart watering is as easy
as 1, 2, 3.
Smart watering means more than just lower water
bills. It means healthier gardens. Watering too
much or not enough produces weak plants that are
susceptible to pests and disease. Learn to give plants
the right amount of water for healthy growth and to
apply it so every drop counts.
Did you know that many landscapes require very little

watering after plants are well established? This only
takes one to three years with good soil preparation
and proper plant selection, so it pays to do the
groundwork.
That’s not all. Smart watering promotes a healthier

environment for all of us. By helping to keep plants
healthier, smart watering practices may decrease
the need for pesticide use. Smart watering also may
lessen fertilizer and pesticide runoff from landscapes
into streams and lakes, where it can affect birds,
fish and their food sources. Finally, smart watering
conserves water so it can benefit people, plants, fish
and other wildlife.
From May through September, water use in our

region nearly doubles, primarily for lawns and
gardens. Experts estimate that 50 percent or more of
this water goes to waste, due to evaporation, runoff
or simply overwatering.
1. Where your water goes

depends on how your garden
grows.
Plant selection, soil preparation and your watering
system’s performance all play a role in determining
how much water your garden needs and how easy it
is to water efficiently.
n Build better soil with compost and mulch.

Good soil absorbs water easily, drains well and
retains moisture. Mix compost into the soil when
planting and mulch established beds with organic
Stock Photography material each year to improve your soil.

n Group plants according to their water needs. Much of the water applied to lawns and gardens
Some plants require regular water to do their never makes it to plant roots. Make the most of every
best. Many others will not need to be watered drop by following these simple guidelines:
after the first few years in the garden, if properly
selected and sited. Group plants with similar n Use drip irrigation, micro-sprays or soaker hoses
needs together so they all get the right amount on all plants except the lawn.
of water.
n Mulch to reduce evaporation from the soil
n Plan lawns appropriately. To stay healthy and surface.
green, lawns need more water, more frequently n Minimize evaporation by watering early in the
than most other plants. Watering other planting day and when the wind is calm.
areas along with your lawn can result in shallow
roots, poor growth and disease. Lay out planting n Choose sprinklers with spray patterns that match
areas and irrigation systems to make it easy to the shape of your lawn or garden.
water the lawn separately. n Use sprinklers that apply water slowly enough
so soil can absorb it without runoff. If puddling
n Select the right watering system. Drip irrigation
and soaker hoses are the best way to water most occurs, run sprinklers for a short time, then turn
plantings (except lawns). Drip and soaker systems them off and allow water to soak in before you
apply water directly to the soil with minimal resume watering.
evaporation or runoff. They also help prevent n Use rotating or oscillating lawn sprinklers, not
plant diseases and make watering gardens easier. fixed sprays (except for properly designed,
installed and maintained automatic irrigation
systems).
2. Make every drop count. n Place sprinklers to avoid watering driveways,
Watering deeply but less often encourages deep sidewalks or walls.
roots and prevents disease. Moistening the soil a n Use timers to limit watering and to make early
little deeper than the roots grow draws them deeper morning irrigation convenient.
– which is particularly important in the first one to n Adjust sprinklers to prevent fine misting that just
three years after planting, while plants are becoming blows away.
established. Let the top few inches of soil dry before
watering again, so roots and soil life can breathe. n Repair leaky faucets and hoses. Even small leaks
waste lots of water.
Drip and soak your way

to a healthier landscape.
By applying water directly to the soil, drip irrigation
and soaker hoses offer several advantages over
sprinklers or hand watering. Here are a few reasons
to use them.
n They conserve water by not spraying pavement,
mulch, weeds and unplanted areas.
n They save time otherwise spent moving hoses
Water is lost Mulch stops and sprinklers, weeding and controlling disease.
to evaporation evaporation. n They help plants grow healthier and save you
and run off. effort.
n They reduce plant diseases that spread by
splashing soil and wet foliage.
n They apply water to large garden areas simply,
efficiently and cost-effectively.
n They prevent erosion and runoff that waste water
Conventional irrigation Drip irrigation and pollute lakes, rivers and streams as well as
other bodies of water.

Soaker? Drip? What’s the difference? to run for about 30 to 40 minutes per week to
water most annual plantings. For best results, dig
Most gardeners are familiar with soaker hoses, which into the soil one hour after watering to check soil
sweat water along their entire length. How does drip moisture depth.
irrigation differ? n Drip systems and soaker hoses are designed to
operate within a certain range of pressure. Use
Drip systems apply water directly to the soil through a pressure regulator to deliver water evenly and
tiny emitters or micro-sprays plugged into flexible help prevent damage to the systems.
tubing laid on the ground or covered by mulch.
Tubing can be placed around individual plants or n Use a filter to prevent clogging from within your
spaced regularly to soak entire beds in densely plumbing system.
planted areas. Drip systems allow more precise
n A backflow preventer keeps dirty water or
watering for plant needs and soil types, especially
fertilizers from entering drinking water. Contact
in large or sloped gardens where pressure changes
your water provider for more information.
make soaker hose output variable.
n Inform everyone who works in your garden about
Drip tubing with emitters can be placed around the system to prevent accidental damage.
individual shrubs and trees, in planting beds and
containers. The number of emitters and flow n Use pressure-compensating drip emitters – not
rates should be selected according to your garden soaker hoses – for uniform watering of uneven
layout and soil type. Drip tape offers a simple and areas, steep slopes or large gardens.
inexpensive way to thoroughly water closely planted
beds or rows. Pre-installed outlets release water at
regular intervals (usually 6 to 18 inches), selected
depending on your soil and plant layout. When it comes to your lawn
Micro-sprays are low-volume spray heads used to and garden, don’t waste water.
water closely planted ground covers and plants that
prefer moist foliage. Use automatic sprinkler systems
Soaker hoses can be used to thoroughly water dense efficiently.
plantings or individual plants. You also can customize
a watering system to your garden by attaching soaker Automatically controlled irrigation systems can
hoses to solid hoses. This way, make efficient watering easier, yet they often
you avoid wasting water in areas waste large amounts of water due to improper
that do not need it. scheduling or maintenance. Follow these
smart-watering tips:
Dripping and Soaking Tips n Adjust your watering schedule to track

weather conditions at least once or twice a
n Keep your layout simple so month.
it is easy to avoid damage,
especially if the system is n Install a rain shut-off device to prevent
buried under mulch. watering when it rains. (For sources, check
the phone directory business listings under
n Cover soaker hoses and drip “Irrigation Systems and Equipment.”)
systems with 2 inches or more
of mulch (wood chips, bark or n Inspect your system a few times during
compost) to prevent evaporation the watering season while it is running. Look
and help spread the water flow. for and repair leaking or broken sprinklers,
Quality drip systems are designed to and reposition those that spray unintended
prevent clogging. areas.
n Soaker hoses will only save water if they n Hire an irrigation professional to test and
are used for the right length of time. As adjust your system annually.
a rule of thumb, a soaker hose may need

3. When to water and how much? several short, straight-sided, empty containers (like
tuna or cat food cans) on your lawn. Place some near
the edges of the spray pattern and some near the
Remember, the goal is to get water to the roots
center. Turn on the sprinkler(s) for 15 minutes, then
of your plants. Wetting the soil surface without
measure the water depth in each can with a ruler
penetrating the root zone does nothing for your
and determine the average depth. Finally, use the
plants. Overwatering literally drowns plants, rotting
chart below to estimate how long and how often to
their roots and inhibiting nutrient absorption. So how
water your lawn each week to have 1 inch of water.
much is right? The best way to find out if plants need
Watering may need to be split into two or more
water is to watch for signs that they are thirsty. You
applications to prevent run off.
also can check how well your soil retains moisture
by digging into the root zone with a garden trowel.
If the soil feels moist, wait a day or two and check
again. Use the chart below to determine when and How long should you water?
how much to water your plants to keep them healthy.
TO GET AN INCH:
–––––
How long should you water? A SIMPLE WAY TO MEASURE
Amount of watering in
PLANTING BEDS: To determine the delivery rate of cans after 15 minutes 1/8” 1/4” 1/2” 3/4” 1”
your watering system, perform this simple test. equals ...
When it’s time to water (check soil moisture with a How long you should
trowel first), run sprinklers or drip/soaker lines for water if you have:
15 minutes, then wait a few hours and dig into the
soil to see how deep the water has gone. Repeat until Clay soil
2 hrs. 1 hr.
30 23 15
soil is moist as far down as the roots grow. Check (water once per week) min. min. min.
the soil every few weeks in summer to keep up with
Loamy soil 30 15 11 8
seasonal changes. 1 hr.
(water twice per week) min. min. min. min.
LAWNS: Most lawns need only 1 inch of water each Sandy soil (water three 40 20 10 8 5
week to stay green during summer. To find out how times per week) min. min. min. min. min.
long your sprinklers take to supply this amount, place
Where, when and how much should you water?

TREES, SHRUBS AND
WHERE / WHEN / HOW MUCH ANNUALS LAWNS
PERENNIALS
Water where the roots are. Most roots are in the top 12 Root systems can go down a Typically 4 to 6 inches deep and
inches of soil, spreading just couple of feet and may extend only under areas covered by
a short distance from the two to five times the branch grass
plant. (Recent transplants and spread.
seedlings have shallower roots.)
Here are some signs it’s time to Soil is dry below surface. Wilted leaves that do not perk Dull green color
water. up in the evening
Evergreen leaves are dull or Yellowing deciduous leaves Footprints show long after you
bronze. (Try not to let plants before autumn walk across the lawn.
wilt. Most will be stunted or die
if allowed to dry out.)
It’s difficult to push a trowel
into the soil.
Here’s when to water and how Check soil often to make sure it Water needs vary widely by Apply no more than 1 inch
much. stays moist 1 to 2 inches below plant and situation. Many of water each week during
the surface. may not need irrigation a few summer including rain.
years after planting in proper
conditions.
Refer to gardening books or Lawns that are allowed to turn
ask nursery experts about water brown recover better if they get
needs of plants. a thorough soaking every month
in summer.

Part Four:
Natural Pest, Weed

and Disease Control
Basic Steps to Manage tips outlined later in this section (and follow
label instructions exactly). Buy only the smallest
Your Garden Naturally amount available. (There is no way to recycle
pesticides.)
Insects, spiders and other crawling or flying creatures
are a vital part of healthy gardens. Most perform
important jobs like pollinating flowers, recycling Start with prevention.
nutrients and eating pests. In fact, less than 1
percent of garden insects actually damage plants. n ry integrated pest management. This is
T
Unfortunately, the pesticides often used to control an ecologically based approach to managing
pests and weeds also are toxic to beneficial garden pests with an emphasis on natural and cultural
life – and may harm people, pets, aquatic life and control processes and methods including host
other wildlife as well. plant resistance and biological control. Because
the focus is on prevention, avoidance,
Follow these basic steps to natural pest, weed and monitoring and suppression of pests,
disease control: chemical pesticides are used only where
and when prevention measures fail to
n Create a healthy garden to stop pest problems keep pests below damaging levels.
before they start. Healthy plants and soil n Build healthy soil to grow
not only resist pests and diseases, they also healthy plants. Amend and
encourage beneficial garden life. mulch entire growing
Identify pests before you spray,
n
Good bug –
stomp or squash. What you Ladybird Beetle Larvae
think is a pest may actually be a
beneficial insect.
n Give nature a chance to When is it a pest?
work. Do not try to eliminate
pests at the first sign of n Pest refers to an insect, animal, plant or
damage. Garden pests feed microorganism that causes problems in
beneficial insect populations the garden.
and allow them to grow.
n Use the least toxic pest n Beneficials are organisms in the air, on
controls available. You the ground or in the soil that do good
can often control pests things for your garden like pollinating
by using traps or barriers, flowers, feeding on insect pests or
or by simply removing pests improving soil.
and infested plant parts. These
methods do not harm beneficial n ome pests also are beneficials.
S
garden life or the environment. For example, yellow jackets are both
If pesticides are the only way to predators of pests and painful to humans.
control a problem, look for the When considering controls, weigh a
least toxic ones and closely creature’s damage against damage to the
follow the application entire community of garden life.
Bad bugs – Aphids

beds with compost, and fertilize moderately such as scab, rust and mildew should be put in
with natural organic or slow-release fertilizers to curbside yard waste collection containers –
grow vigorous, pest-resistant plants. Determine not in home compost piles, ravines, streams
the nutrient requirements of plants. Do a soil or lakes.
test and add lime and/or fertilize according to
recommendations. n Diversify and rotate annual crops. Grow a
variety of plants to prevent problems from
n Plant right. Place each plant in the sun and soil spreading, as well as to attract pest-eating
conditions it prefers. Select varieties that are insects and birds. Do not plant the same type of
known to grow well in your garden conditions annual vegetables in the same spot each year;
and resist common pest and disease problems. crop rotation prevents pests and diseases from
building up in the soil.
n ive your plants some space. Good air
G
circulation can prevent or reduce many disease
and pest problems. Space plants so they have Reduce the need for pesticides.
plenty of room to grow, and remove some when
they become too crowded. Group plants in the Minimize the spraying of poisonous insecticides in
landscape according to water needs and sunlight your garden by letting certain types of plants and
requirements. insect-eating animals control pests. Some plants,
such as marigolds and onions, contain chemicals that
n Water wisely. Overwatering and underwatering repel pesky bugs. Toads, lady bugs, praying mantises
are two of the most common causes of plant and other insect-eating animals also can help control
problems. Observe plants and check soil as deep pest populations in your garden.
as roots grow before and after watering to make
sure plants get the water they need, but not
too much. You can check the soil with a trowel, Try these plant combinations.
shovel or a soil-coring tool. Water early in the day
or use soaker hoses to prevent diseases caused by Experienced gardeners over the years have suggested
wet leaves. plant combinations that work together in fending
off insect pest problems. Actual research data on
n Clean up. Remove weeds, wood boards and this phenomenon is not well established. These
other yard debris that can harbor pests and combinations should be taken as suggestions. Good
disease. Fallen leaves and fruit from plants like companions are:
apple trees and roses with persistent diseases
n beans with potatoes, cucumbers and carrots;
n beets with onions;
n cabbage with tomatoes, nasturtiums, thyme,
mint, sage and rosemary;
n carrots with peas, leaf lettuce, thyme, leeks and
chives;
n corn with soybeans, pole beans and vine-crop
families;
n garlic around fruit trees and raspberry plants;
n leaf lettuce with radishes, carrots, chives and
garlic;
n peas with turnips, carrots and chives;
n potatoes with beans and cabbage;
n tomatoes with dill, parsley and basil; and
n vine crops with radishes, oregano and
nasturtiums.

Biological Control Beneficial insects fall into two groups – parasites
and predators.
Beneficial insects can be purchased and released to Parasites live on or in the bodies of insects. Predators
control many home garden pests. If prey or habitat capture and devour insects. A number of biological
is not suitable, the released beneficial insects may agents also are available for pest control (e.g.,
venture off your property in a short time. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), milky spores, growth
regulators).
The best approach is to encourage and conserve
natural populations of beneficial insects. This can
be done by avoiding or minimizing application of NOTE: Information adapted from “Integrated Pest Management
(IPM),” Master Gardener Fact Sheet by Dr. Geoff Zhender, Clemson
chemical insecticides and planting flowering plants Extension IPM Specialist and the Seattle “Natural Pest, Weed and
that attract beneficial insects to the garden. Disease Control” publication.
Plants and Beneficial Insects They Attract ...

PLANT BENEFICIAL INSECTS ATTRACTED PEST(S) REPELLED
Anise (Pimpinella anisum) Ladybugs, parasitic mini-wasps, tachinid flies
Basket-of-Gold (Aurinia saxatilis) Ladybugs, hoverflies
Bee balm (Monarda spp.) Bees, parasitic mini-wasps, beneficial flies
Chives ––––– Aphids
Coreopsis (Coreopsis tinctoria) Spined soldier bugs, hoverflies, tachinid flies
Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus) Parasitic mini-wasps, hoverflies Tachinid flies, bees
Dahlia ––––– Nematodes
Dill (Anethum graveolens) Lacewings, hoverflies, ladybugs, parasitic
mini-wasps, tachinid flies
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) Lacewings, hoverflies, ladybugs, parasitic
mini-wasps, tachinid flies
Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium) Hoverflies
Garlic Aphids, borers, Japanese beetles,
–––––
mites
Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria) Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies Parasitic mini-wasps, tachinid flies
Lovage (Levisticum officinale) Beneficial wasps, ground beetles

Marigolds Nematodes, tomato hornworms,
–––––
cucumber beetles
Painted daisy (Chrysanthemum coccineum) Tachinid flies Parasitic mini-wasps
Pennyroyal ––––– Ants
Rosemary ––––– Slugs
Salvia ––––– Nematodes
Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima) Hoverflies
Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) Ladybugs, predatory wasps, many other Ants, cucumber beetles, squash
beneficials bugs, cutworms, Japanese beetles
Yarrow (Achillea spp.) Lacewings, hoverflies, ladybugs, parasitic
mini-wasps
Zinnia (Zinnia elegans) Ladybugs, parasitic mini-wasps, bees
Bee Ladybug Beneficial Wasp

Praying Mantis Lacewings

REMOVAL: Pests and diseased plant parts can be
Meet the picked, washed or vacuumed off plants to control
infestations. In fact, pulling weeds is a natural pest
‘Beneficials’ ... control.
n Handpicking can be effective for large pests like
See the illustration on cabbage loopers, tomato hornworms, slugs and
the inside back cover. snails. You can knock the pest off with a stick,
then step on it.
n Pruning out infestations of tent caterpillars is
effective on a small scale. Control leaf miners on
Repellents beets or chard by picking infected leaves. Put
infestations in curbside yard waste collection
A variety of homemade and commercial preparations containers – not in home compost piles which do
can be used to keep pests away from plants. Many not get hot enough to destroy pests.
gardeners claim repellents work, although some are
not consistently effective in scientific trials. n Washing aphids off plants with a strong
spray of water from a hose can reduce damage
A mixture of raw eggs blended with water (pictured below left). Repeated washings may be
required as this process does not kill the aphids.
produces a taste and odor that offend deer;
some gardeners add garlic and hot pepper.
TRAPS: It is possible to trap enough pests like moths
Spraying this mix onto plant foliage can repel deer
and slugs to keep them under control. You also can
for several weeks or until it is washed off by rain or use traps for monitoring pest numbers to determine
sprinklers. when controls may be necessary.
Garlic oil and extracts are used to repel a variety of See two simple and effective pest traps below.
insect pests and also work as fungicides.
n Cardboard or burlap wrapped around apple
tree trunks in summer and fall will fool coddling
What can you do if moth larvae into thinking that they have found
a safe place to spin their cocoons as they crawl
a pest problem develops? down the tree to pupate. Traps can be peeled
away periodically to remove cocoons.
USE PHYSICAL CONTROLS FIRST. Many pests
n Slug traps can drown slugs in beer or in a
can be kept away from plants with barriers or
mixture of yeast and water. An old pie pan filled
traps or controlled by simply removing infested with beer can quickly and easily drown many
plant parts. These controls generally have no slugs.
adverse impact on beneficial garden life, people or
the environment. BARRIERS: It is often
practical to physically
keep pests away from
plants. Barriers range
from 2-inch cardboard
“collars” around plants
for keeping cutworms
away to 8-foot fences for
excluding deer.
n Floating row covers
are lightweight
fabrics that let light,
air and water reach
plants while keeping
pests away. They are
useful for providing
a barrier to pests in
vegetables.

Mesh netting keeps birds away from berries and
n cautiously and follow label directions closely, just as
small fruit trees. when applying synthetic pesticides.
A band of sticky material around tree trunks

n n Neem oil kills and disrupts feeding and mating
stops ants from climbing trees and introducing of many insects including some beneficials. It also
disease-carrying aphids. is an effective fungicide and the botanical least
toxic to people, animals, birds and fish.
Use least toxic pesticides when n Pyrethrum, ryania and sabadilla kill many tough
pests, but also are toxic to beneficial insects,
physical controls don’t work. people, fish and other animals. These pesticides
should only be used as a last resort.
The following pesticides have a low toxicity or break
down quickly into safe by-products when exposed to Biocontrols
sunlight or the soil. They are the least likely to have
adverse effects. Even these pesticides, however, can n Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a common,
be toxic to beneficial garden life, people, pets and commercially available bacterium that
other animals – especially fish. They should be used poisons caterpillar pests, including cutworms,
carefully and kept out of streams and lakes. armyworms, tent caterpillars, cabbage loopers
and corn earworms. Bt is not toxic to people,
Soaps, Oils and Minerals animals, fish or insects – although it can kill
caterpillars of non-pest butterflies and moths.
n Horticultural oils smother mites, aphids and
their eggs, scales, leaf miners, mealybugs and n Predatory nematodes kill a variety of pests,
many other pests. They have little effect on most including cutworms, armyworms, root maggots,
beneficial insects. crane fly larvae, root weevil larvae and other
soil-dwelling pests. Proper soil temperature
n Horticultural soaps dry out aphids, white flies, and moisture are required for nematodes to be
earwigs and other soft-bodied insects. They effective.
must be sprayed directly onto the pests to work,
so repeated applications may be necessary. n Beauveria bassiana is a commercially available
There also are soap-based fungicides and fungus that destroys an extensive range of pest
herbicides. insects.
n Sulfur controls many fungal diseases such as n Beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings
scab, rust, leaf curl and powdery mildew without can be purchased and released. A healthy and
harming most animals and beneficials. For diverse garden usually will have lots of them
greater effectiveness, sulfur can be mixed with around already.
lime. Sulfur also is frequently combined with n Compost teas use compost organisms to
other materials to create more toxic fungicides. help control leaf and root diseases. They are
n Baking soda (1 teaspoon) mixed with sometimes effective and they won’t harm any
dish-washing liquid (a few drops) and water beneficial organisms. Call Clemson Extension’s
(1 quart) has been used by rose growers to Home and Garden Information Center at
prevent mildew. A commercial product also is 1-888-656-9988 for more information.
available that contains potassium bicarbonate,
which is similar to baking soda. Use synthetic pesticides
n Iron phosphate slug baits are less toxic than
other slug baits and not as hazardous to dogs.
only as a last resort.
When physical and least-toxic controls fail to manage
Botanicals a pest, other pesticides may be used as a final resort.
But first, consider your pest problem. Is it the result
These plant-derived insecticides degrade quickly in of poor plant placement? Is it likely to recur after
the sun or soil. Most, however, are initially toxic to pesticide treatment? Keep in mind that scientists
people, animals, fish and beneficial garden life. Use have found pesticides – including commonly used

insecticides – in local streams, some at high enough at hazardous household product (HHP) collection
levels to harm fish and what they eat. sites where available. (NOTE: Charleston County
(843) 720-7111, Georgetown County (843) 545-
n Don’t use services that spray insecticides or 3452, Horry County (843) 347-1651 and York
herbicides on a pre-scheduled plan. Preventive County (803) 628-3195 have permanent disposal
sprays can disrupt natural controls and may options available.)
do more harm than good. Fungicides are an
exception because they only work when applied
prior to the appearance of the problem. Use the What about weeds?
least toxic fungicides only on plants that have
been infected in previous years. A “weed” is simply a plant in the wrong place. Some
n ook for the least toxic pesticide. Ask nursery
L weeds compete with desirable plants, but many are
staff for help identifying the least toxic pesticides merely aesthetic concerns. For instance, white clover
for your pest problem. For publications on is often considered a weed in lawns, yet it stays green
pesticide use and safety, visit www.clemson.edu/ when dry conditions turn lawns brown and its roots
extension/hgic. Avoid products with warnings support bacteria that transform nitrogen from the air
like “highly toxic,” “causes permanent eye into plant fertilizer. So clover feeds your lawn every
damage,” or “may be fatal if swallowed.” Choose time you mow.
“ready-to-use” products that are safer to use
instead of more toxic concentrates that require n ccept a few weeds in your lawn. Target the
A
mixing. problem weeds and leave the others. Many
people who see a lawn with 10-20 percent weed
n Don’t use broad-spectrum insecticides like
cover consider it healthy and good looking.
diazinon, chlorpyrifos (Dursban), malathion and
carbaryl. These are likely to kill more of the pests’ n
Prevention: Don’t give weeds a chance. Weeds
natural enemies than the pests themselves. Pest thrive in bare soil and neglected garden areas.
populations may soar and become more of a Plant spreading ground cover to outcompete
problem than before they were sprayed. weeds or smother them with weed barriers and
n void “weed and feed” and other pesticides
A lots of mulch.
that are broadcast over the entire yard.
n hysical control: Be a control freak with
P
Instead, spot apply the least toxic product
problem weeds. A single weed flower can
only where you have a pest or weed. In South
produce thousands of seeds. To prevent future
Carolina, the time to “weed” is fall and early
infestations, remove weeds before they go to
winter. It is not, however, the time to “feed”
dormant grass. seed. Cultivating with a hoe works well on young
or shallow-rooted weeds in garden beds or paths.
n uy only as much as you need. Unused
B Long-handled pincer-type weed pullers work
pesticides are dangerous to store and expensive
for individuals and local governments to dispose
of. There is no way to recycle pesticides in South
Carolina.
n Carefully follow label directions. Only use
pesticides on the plants and pests listed on
the label and apply exactly according to label
directions. Be sure to wear specified protective
clothing and equipment. Keep children and pets
off application areas for the time specified on the
label.
n Apply only when and where pests are present.
Timing is critical with all pest controls. Most
pesticides should not be used as a preventive
measure except for fungicidal tree sprays.
n Dispose of empty pesticide containers
properly. Empty containers should be disposed
of in your garbage. Dispose of unused pesticides Spread mulch to prevent weeds.

great for weeds with taproots like dandelion and
thistle, especially in lawns when soil is moist.
Natural Pest Control Resources
n
Least toxic controls: Corn, soap or vinegar? Call the Clemson Extension’s Home and Garden
Herbicides with low toxicity to beneficial garden Information Center at 1-888-656-9988 to ask a
life, people and wildlife include corn gluten question or to request pest control information.
(a milling by-product used as animal feed),
herbicidal soaps and vinegar (acetic acid). Corn Community groups, garden clubs and landscape
gluten prevents the growth of weed seedlings, professionals also can request a presentation to learn
but actually fertilizes established plants. It is sold more about natural pest management methods.
under several brand names. Corn gluten’s effect
is short-lived, so applications must be timed to You also can visit www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic
coincide with seed germination. Herbicidal soaps to see pest management publications.
and vinegar both damage leaf cells and dry out
plants. Tough weeds resist these herbicides or Books for Gardeners ...
resprout from roots. Some concentrated vinegar
products can cause permanent damage if n “Month by Month, Gardening in the
accidentally splashed into the eyes. Ready-to-use Carolinas,” by Robert Polomski, offers expert
dilutions are safer. advice on what should be done in the garden
n s the last resort, spot apply synthetic
A and the correct time to do it.
herbicides. When extreme weed problems call n “Southern Living Garden Problem Solvers,”
for treatment with synthetic chemical herbicides, Steve Bender, editor, has photos and
carefully apply them (only as directed on the descriptions of many common insect and
label) directly onto weed leaves. Do not use disease problems in the Southeast.
“weed and feed” or pre-emergent products,
because when it is time to weed, it is not time
to feed. Therefore, a product is being used Clemson Extension Resources
unnecessarily which spreads toxic herbicides all and Services
over lawns or gardens and is likely to run off
into streams. If you are applying an herbicide n Attend Master Gardener Clinics. Master
on a regular basis, there is probably a landscape Gardener volunteers are available to answer
design or soil problem that needs to be questions and diagnose problems over the phone
addressed. or at clinics held regularly throughout South
A home gardener is shown hand weeding. A home gardener uses a weed puller. Spot apply the least toxic herbicide.

Carolina. For phone help and clinic locations, call your Clemson
Extension office, 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
n View Clemson Extension publications on horticulture and pest
management online at www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic.
n
Watch “Making it Grow” and “From the Ground Up” on South
Carolina ETV, a common sense approach to gardening.
n ead related publications. For a small charge, many bulletins on
R
growing plants and managing pests may be ordered from your
Clemson Extension office. Landscape professionals and home owners
can purchase the “Pest Management Handbook” from a Clemson
Extension office.
Pesticide Disposal Emergencies

n Poison Control – In case of pesticide poisoning, call 911.
n azardous Household Products (HHP) – For more information
H
about properly managing HHP, visit www.scdhec.gov/environment/
lwm/recycle/pubs/hhp.pdf. For HHP recycling or collection locations,
call the S.C. Department of Health and Environmental Control’s
Office of Solid Waste Reduction and Recycling at 1-800-768-7348
or Clemson Extension’s Home and Garden Information Center at
1-888-656-9988.
Photograph by Joanne Jewell and Carl Woestwin

Part Five:
The Right Plants

Getting to Know Scientific Names Sometimes, the plant may have a third and fourth
name, especially when several distinct forms occur.
You will see words like varieties (var.), subspecies
In this handbook, as well as in a number of
(subsp.) or forms (f.) written after the species.
gardening magazines and plant catalogs, you will
find a botanical or scientific name associated with
In some cases the scientific name may not have a
each plant. Although the scientific name may appear
species, such as when a cultivar is a hybrid of two or
intimidating, it establishes the correct identity of the
more species. In that case, the genus name will be
plant. Here are three important points to keep in
followed by the cultivar.
mind.
Occasionally, you will find a trademark associated
n A plant may have several common names that
with a plant name. This marketing name is not
may differ from one region of our state to
a part of the scientific name; however, it can be
another.
confused with the cultivar name, especially when the
n Sometimes, two unrelated plants may share the cultivar is a nonsensical word in contrast to the more
same common name. descriptive and appealing trademark name.
n Fortunately, a plant only can have one scientific

or “given” name.
The scientific name has two words, almost like our

first and last names. Our last name identifies us
generically as being a member of a particular group,
such as Smith, Jones or Sabal. In plant talk, it is called
the genus. Our first name specifically identifies us,
such as John, Mary or palmetto. This is known as the
species.
When naming plants, we put the last name or

genus first and the specific or species name last. For
example, it would be Smith, John and Sabal palmetto
whose common name is cabbage palmetto, the
state tree of South Carolina. The genus is always
capitalized and the species name is written in lower
case. Also, the scientific name is either italicized or
underlined.
Plants may have a third name – the cultivar – a

shortened word for “cultivated variety.” When a plant
is discovered to have a unique characteristic that
differs from the species, such as different-colored
flowers, shorter stature or colorful leaves, it is called
a cultivar. The cultivar name is capitalized and is
enclosed by single quotation marks. Sometimes the
cultivar may be abbreviated to cv. and written this
way: Camellia japonica cv. ‘Dr. Tinsley’ (Dr. Tinsley
Stock Photography
Japanese camellia). Begonia tuberhybridacultorum

For example, the scientific name of ‘QVTIA’ live oak camellia – Stewartia ovata) and macro or large
is Quercus virginiana ‘QVTIA.’ Yes, believe it or not, (Dutchman’s pipe – Aristolochia macrophylla).
the official cultivar name is ‘QVTIA,’ but its marketing
name is Highrise. The growth form may be erectus or upright (stinking
Benjamin – Trillium erectum), scandens or climbing
Scientific names give clues. (climbing bleeding heart – Dicentra scandens)
and repens or creeping (trailing arbutus – Epigaea
Although scientific names may be difficult to repens).
pronounce, they convey valuable and interesting
information. The species names may give you a clue The color may be alba or white (white oak – Quercus
as to the geographic origin of the plant, such as alba) nigra or black (river birch – Betula nigra),
live oak (Quercus virginiana), American elm (Ulmus roseus or rose-colored (rose coreopsis – Coreopsis
Americana), Japanese andromeda (Pieris japonica), rosea), fulvus or orange-gray-yellow (orange daylily –
and Carolina buckthorn (Rhamnus caroliniana). Hemerocallis fulva).
Be careful because these species names can be
unreliable. For example, eastern redbud (Cercis A species may offer clues as to fragrance (e.g.,
canadensis) appears to be native to Canada, but it winter honeysuckle – Lonicera fragrantissima,
sweet pea – Lathyrus odoratus, bearsfoot hellebore –
will not survive north of New Jersey.
Helleborus foetidus, which sounds rather
foul-smelling).
Some names honor a contribution.
Sometimes a scientific name honors the contributions Is it evergreen or deciduous?
of early botanists, plant explorers or famous people.
For example black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) is You can tell from its species name that possumhaw
named for Olaf Rudbeck, the mentor of Carolus holly (Ilex deciduas) is deciduous or loses its
Linnaeus, the Swedish “father of modern botany.” leaves in the winter. Yellow jesamine (Gelsemium
The magnolia was named after Pierre Magnol, a sempervirens), the state flower of South Carolina, is
professor of botany in France. evergreen because its species name – sempervirens –
means “always green.”
Hints about Shape, Size, Color Do not fret about being able to pronounce these
scientific names properly. Chances are, the person
and Fragrance you are speaking to may not feel very comfortable
with the Latin name either. As long as both of you
Sometimes the species name offers hints about use the same “plant language” with scientific names,
shapes and sizes such as minor or small (periwinkle you should be able to select the right plants for your
– Vinca minor), ovata-oval or egg-shaped (mountain landscape.
Stock Photography Stock Photography

Zinnia elegans Tagetes patula

How to Select the Right n STEP 3: Create a plan to fit your site. Identify
plants that will thrive with little maintenance in
Plants for a Beautiful, each situation as well as providing the colors,
scents, fruits or other qualities you desire.
Trouble-free Garden n STEP 4: Give plants a good start. Prepare your
When you grow plants in the right conditions, they soil with compost, plant properly, mulch and
thrive with minimal care. By choosing plants well follow healthy watering practices. For more
adapted to each garden situation, you save time and information, see the “Healthy soil is the key” and
money, reduce maintenance, help prevent pests and “Smart Watering” sections in this handbook.
diseases and leave more clean water for the wildlife.
Plan now and enjoy the benefits for years to come.
This handbook takes you through the following Dry, Sunny Gardens ...
simple steps for choosing plants that will flourish in
your garden: A few of the plants that thrive in these conditions
include:
n STEP 1: Get to know your site. Learn about the
conditions in each part of your garden. Once
n Beebalm – Monarda didyma;
you know your soils and microclimates – the
areas in your landscape with unique climatic n Black-eyed Susan – Rudbeckia hirta;
characteristics – you can choose plants that will
thrive in each area. n Butterflyweed – Asclepias tuberosa;
n STEP 2: Dream a garden. Decide how you want n Joe-pye weed – Eupatorium fistulosum;
to use your landscape and consider all the ways
plants can help you create play areas, colorful n Purple coneflower – Echinacea purpurea;
flower displays, privacy or shade, wildlife habitat, n Stokes aster – Stokesia laevis;
food and more.
n St. John’s Wort – Hypericum frondosum;
n Switch grass – Panicum virgatum; and
n Yarrow – Achillea millefolium.
Shady, Woodland Gardens ...

A few of the plants that thrive in these conditions
include:
n Bloodroot – Sanguinaria canadensis;

n Blue woodland phlox – Phlox divaricata;
n Fire pink – Silene virginica;
n Foam flower – Tiarella cordifolia;
n Green and gold – Chrysogonum virginianum;
n Indian pink – Spigelia marilandica;
n Jacks in-the-Pulpit – Arisaema triplyllum;
n Maindenhair fern – Adiantum pedatum; and
n Solomon’s Seal – Polygonatum biflorum.

STEP 1: Get to know your site.
Lawns and
First, make a simple map of your garden conditions. All it takes is a
tape measure, shovel, graph paper and colored pencils. (Observing your vegetables are
existing landscape over the seasons can really pay off here and in “STEP
2: Dream a garden.”). After carefully measuring, create a drawing of picky.
your property to scale, showing all buildings, pavement, rockeries, trees,
planting beds and other landscape features. Dig small holes about a Healthy lawns and
foot deep in several spots around the yard to check soil type and identify vegetable gardens need
problem situations such as compaction or poor drainage. Next, use well-drained soil at least
colored pencils to outline the following microclimates and landscape 6 inches deep and require
conditions: several hours of direct
sunlight per day.
n sunny, shady and partly sunny areas;
n “hot spots” on the south or west sides of walls or fences or next to Many shrubs, trees and
pavement; perennials will grow well
in shady or wet spots,
n windy or exposed areas; but lawns will have
n areas with rocky or compacted soil that needs improvement; constant problems in
these conditions.
n wet or poorly drained areas, runoff or draining downspouts;
n slopes that may erode or are difficult to mow; Few vegetables will produce
n places that are hard to access for maintenance; and well in shade or in poorly
drained or shallow soil.
n dry spots under roof eaves or evergreens.
SHADE, PART SHADE
SUNNY, HOT
SANDY
SOIL
DRY SHADE
LOWER LEVEL, WET

STEP 2: Dream a garden. n pathways necessary for home and garden
maintenance;
Before choosing plants that will do well in your n specific plants you want to keep, move or
garden, think about what plants can do for you. remove;
Strategic landscaping can define outdoor spaces, n garden storage and composting areas;
attract wildlife and provide privacy, play areas, food,
colorful flowers and foliage, fragrant herbs and much n potting and work areas;
more. Best of all, you can accomplish all of this with n places for creating and displaying art; and
low-maintenance, water-wise plants.
n other needs.
Decide how you want to use your garden and
how much time you want to spend working in it.
Look around your neighborhood for ideas and in STEP 3: Create a plan
gardening books for ideas.
to fit your site.
Consider the following options when planning your
landscape: Once you know your garden conditions and what you
want your landscaping to accomplish, you can lay
n vegetable and herb gardens; out your garden. Pair your site map from STEP 1 with
your list of objectives from STEP 2 to define areas of
n flowers and colorful foliage; use and select plants for each location. For example,
put your lawn and vegetable garden in sunny areas
n fruit trees; with good drainage. The bird and wildlife viewing
n food, water and shelter for birds, butterflies and sanctuary you’ve always wanted as well as the
other wildlife; compost pile can go in the shady area. Use sheets of
tracing paper laid over your site map to experiment
n living screens for privacy; with varied layouts, and match plants with the
conditions that best suit them.
n decks or paved areas for outdoor living;
n low-maintenance areas; Choose the right plants for each spot.
n wood-chip areas or lawn for play;
n Choose plants that thrive without irrigation.
n views you want to accentuate or block; Many plants grow beautifully with just the water
Trees: Environmental Heroes

Did you know that trees play a crucial role in our
gardens and environment? They shelter and feed
wildlife, cleanse the air, reduce storm runoff and
prevent soil erosion.
Deciduous trees planted on the south and

west sides of a building provide summer
shade, while letting sun through naked
branches in the winter. Trees also can help
block winter winds.
When planting trees on a suburban or city-sized

lot, think small. Trees can grow quickly and
shade out lawns or sun-loving plants. Falling
limbs from large trees can damage structures
and power lines.
Photograph courtesy of Great Plant Picks
Acer palmatum “Oskazuki”

provided by nature once they are established Create irrigation zones for each exposure.
n
in your garden. Plant moisture-loving varieties Plants in full sun usually use more water than
where soil stays wet. Drought-tolerant plants those grown in the shade and should be watered
perform best where soil is dry in the summer. using different zones if you have an automatic
irrigation system.
n Select pest- and disease-resistant varieties.
Whether you grow roses or rhododendrons, Drip and soak for savings. Drip irrigation and
n
apples or tomatoes, you will find that certain soaker hoses provide the best way to water
varieties resist common pests and diseases better most plants other than lawns. They apply
than others. Look for these in nurseries and seed water directly to the soil, without wasting it on
catalogs. Read the labels on the plant containers. pavement or allowing water to evaporate as it
sprays into the air.
Diversify your plant investments. Landscapes
n
characterized by a rich array of plants resist the
spread of pests and diseases better than gardens STEP 4: Give plants a good start.
with little variety. Diverse plantings attract
birds and insects that eat pests – and are more Any plant you choose will grow best with good soil
attractive to people, too. preparation, proper planting and care. The following
simple practices will help prevent many problems.
n hy not go native? Indigenous plants have
W
adapted to the local climate and pests. Many
natives are beautiful and easy to grow. The
Build healthy soil.
needs of natives vary and, for best results, they
n Loosen soil at least 10 to 12 inches deep
must be grown in the right conditions – just like
throughout planting beds and 6 to 8 inches
any other plant.
deep in lawns. Use a shovel or digging fork or a
Also refer to “Landscape Design for Energy
n rototiller for large areas. Try a pick or mattock to
Efficiency” by Mary Taylor Haque, Lolly Tai and break through compacted layers.
Don Ham. n Thoroughly mix compost into loosened soil
throughout the planting bed when planting a
Plan for easy maintenance new or remodeled garden area. When planting
and efficient irrigation. individual plants in the middle of a lawn or into
an established planting bed, loosen the soil in
At every stage of laying out your garden, consider an area at least 3 to 4 feet in diameter – larger
how to water wisely and make upkeep easy.
n lant practical lawns. Include only as much lawn

P Create a garden
as you need and want to maintain. Remember
that lawns need regular watering in summer for all seasons.
to stay green and need weekly mowing during
several months of the year. Avoid planting lawns Landscape for year-round interest.
on slopes, narrow strips or irregular shapes that
are hard to mow or irrigate. n ook for winter standouts, including plants
L
that feature varied leaf color or texture as
n Create low-maintenance areas. Plant slopes, well as colorful winter bark or berries.
areas along fences and other hard-to-access sites
with quick-growing, groundcover plants that n Include evergreens. Use both coniferous
crowd out weeds and require little watering. and broadleaf evergreen plants to define
spaces while keeping your garden green
Group plants by their water needs. This way,
n throughout the year.
they can be watered by the same sprinkler or
irrigation zone with each group receiving just n Provide winter structure. Woody trees
the right amount of moisture. Lawns should and shrubs as well as arbors, trellises and
be irrigated separately from other plants with garden art provide visual interest during the
different water needs. dormant season.

for root balls measuring over a foot wide – but do not add soil
amendments since this may prevent the plant’s roots from spreading
beyond the planting hole.
Plant right.
n Dig a hole large enough to spread the plant’s roots.
n Form a firm mound at the bottom of the planting hole. Make it high
enough so that the top of the root ball is at the soil surface as it was
in the pot or at the nursery.
n Loosen and spread the roots. Untangle circling or matted roots and
spread them out around the plant using a hose to gently spray soil
off the outside of the root ball if needed.
n Fill in with the soil removed to make the planting hole. Firm soil with
your hands and water thoroughly. Check the level of the plant after Viburnum tinus – Photograph courtesy
of Great Plant Picks
watering has settled the soil. “Spring Bouquet”
Mulch and water wisely.

n Spread mulch in a circle extending a little further out than the
plant’s branches. Mulch keeps roots moist and makes soils loose and
absorbent. Keep mulch a few inches away from the plant’s trunk or
stems.
n Water as needed until plants are established. Even the most
drought-tolerant plants need irrigation their first two or three
summers. Once established, they can get by with little or no water
in addition to what nature provides.
Rhododendron “Hinodegiri”

Part Six:
Natural Lawn Care

Try going natural. rates are highest. Much of this water is wasted
through over-watering – a practice that invites
lawn disease.
n Healthy lawns are easy on the environment.
Going natural may mean you need to accept a n Rainwater can wash pesticides from our
lighter green color, a few weeds and mowing a lawns into streams or lakes. Rain also can
little higher than you’re used to doing. But you’ll wash fertilizers from lawns into local waters. The
have a healthy, good-looking lawn that’s easier fertilizers feed algae that smother fish and other
on the environment. water dwellers.
n Why make a change? Your lawn can be a great n Pesticides may not be so great for you
place to hang out, but depending on how you and your kids either. Studies have found an
care for it, your lawn also can be part of big increased cancer risk related to pesticide use. And
environmental problems. safe disposal of pesticides costs you big bucks.
n Lawn and garden watering make up more Grasscycling

than 40 percent of our summer water use.
That’s when supplies are lowest and when Grasscycling is leaving the clippings on the lawn. It’s
wildlife and people need it most. It’s also when that simple. This saves you time and money and helps
prevent the growing problem of overloaded compost
facilities.
It’s good for your lawn and the environment, too.

Grasscycling provides at least a quarter of your lawn’s
fertilizer needs. If you use less fertilizer, there’s less
chance of it washing into our streams.
Natural lawn care works.

Fortunately, the natural lawn care practices outlined
in this section make it easy to reduce the use of
hazardous products while saving time, water, money
and helping to preserve our environment.
These practices will result in a healthier lawn as well

as being healthier for you, your children and pets.
Six Steps to Natural Lawn Care

Healthy lawns grow on healthy soil. Using proper
soil preparation and lawn-maintenance practices
will help build healthy soil and vigorous,
deep-rooted lawns. These lawns are more resistant
to disease, tolerate some insect and drought
damage and will outgrow many weeds. The practices
recommended in this section can help make lawns
healthier for our families, protect beneficial soil
Stock Photography organisms and protect our environment, too.

STEP 1: Grasscycle – Mow high, mow often STEP 2: Fertilize moderately in late spring
and leave the clippings. and before the end of August with a ‘natural
organic’ or ‘slow release’ fertilizer.
n Set mowing height to remove only one-third
of the grass length at each mowing. Try to mow Before applying any fertilizer to your lawn, have your
weekly in spring. Cutting too much at once soil tested.
stresses the grass. Mowing height varies by type
of grass, but mowing high helps develop deeper n Slow-release fertilizers feed nutrients to the
roots and crowds out weeds. lawn slowly and less is wasted through leaching
n Leave the clippings on the lawn. Grasscycling or runoff to streams. “Quick-release” fertilizers
provides free fertilizer (at least one-fourth of your are 100 percent water soluble and wash into
lawn’s needs), helps lawns grow greener and streams easily. Instead, look for the words
denser, and doesn’t build up thatch. “natural organic” or “slow-release” on the bag.
n You can grasscycle with your existing mower. n Healthy lawns are a medium green color,
For best results, keep the blade sharp, mow when depending on the variety of grass. The darkest
the grass is dry and mow a little more often in green turf, which many people strive for, is not
the spring. Clippings left scattered on the surface in fact the healthiest turf. Over-fertilized lawns
will break down quickly. If there are clumps, mow are more prone to disease, thatch buildup and
again to break them up. Push mowers work great drought damage.
for grasscycling. n With slow-release or organics fertilizers, you
can fertilize just twice a year, in mid- to late
May and again in late August. If you choose to
fertilize only once, the fall application is the most
Mulching Mowers ... important.
For clean mowing that leaves no visible n Remember, grasscycling returns valuable
clippings, consider buying a mulching mower. nutrients to the soil every time you mow.
This mower will chop clippings finely and blow
them down into the lawn so they
disappear and won’t be tracked
STEP 3: Water deeply to moisten the root
into your house. zone, but infrequently.
Check the spring issues n Grasses do better when the whole root zone
of “Consumer Reports” is wet and then partially dries out between
for current ratings of waterings. Avoid frequent shallow watering that
mulching mowers. The
rechargeable electric
mulching mowers
are quiet, clean and Fertilizer: How much is enough?
grasscycle very
well. Clemson Extension recommends that home
lawns receive 1 to 4 pounds (depending on
the type of grass) of nitrogen (in a balanced
fertilizer) per 1,000 square feet of lawn
each year. Grasscycling can supply at least
one-quarter of that.
Split the rest into two or three applications

before the end of August. Avoid fertilizing in
the early spring because it makes lawns grow
too fast. Unless your lawn needs help recovering
from disease or insect damage, wait until June
to fertilize.

causes shallow rooting. Too much watering can STEP 4: Improve poor lawns with aeration
promote lawn disease, leach nutrients from the
soil and waste water. and overseeding or consider fixing the soil
n Aerate the lawn if water won’t penetrate
and replanting.
because of soil compaction or thatch buildup.
n Aerate compacted soil in the spring or fall to
Dethatching also will help if there is heavy thatch
improve root development. Use a rented power
buildup.
aerator for best results or hire a professional.
n Water about 1 inch per week during warm (For small areas you can purchase a sod-coring
seasons and let the weather be your guide. tool). The soil should be moist. Make two or
Water slowly, or start and stop, so the water more passes to get better results. Rake or mow
penetrates rather than puddling or running to break up the cores. The soil left will help to
off. Sandy soils will need lighter, more frequent decompose excess thatch layers in the lawn.
watering because they can’t hold much water. If your soil is deeply compacted (more than
Water early (4 a.m. to 10 a.m.), not in the heat 2 inches – dig a hole to find out), find a
of the day. landscape professional who has equipment that
penetrates 6 to 8 inches to aerate for you.
Newly planted lawns may need daily watering if
planted in the late spring or summer. n Overseed thin areas to thicken the lawn and
help crowd out weeds. Overseeding with rye
grass should be done when the days are warm
enough for the seed to grow and the nights are
cool enough to reduce the incidence of disease.
Thirty days before the first frost, when highs are
near 70°F and lows are above 50°F, is a good
time to overseed. This usually corresponds
to mid-September in the Upstate and late
September in the Midlands and Coastal regions
(from Clemson Extension’s Home and Garden
Information Center fact sheet #1206, available at
www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic). Overseeding
the right way can be accomplished with special
equipment. Just casting seed onto the existing
lawn will not give you the quality that you
expect.
STEP 5: Think twice before using ‘weed

and feed’ or other pesticides.
n These products may damage soil and lawn
health and pollute our waterways. Some
studies also suggest that using pesticides may
harm our health.
n Crowd out weeds and reduce pest damage

by promoting a healthy, vigorous lawn
through proper fertilization, irrigation and
mowing. Improve thin areas with aeration and
overseeding. A healthy turf will need far fewer
pesticides.
n Accept a few “weeds” in your lawn. Some, like

clover, may look fine. Target the problem weeds,
Stock Photography but leave the others.

n Remove problem weeds by hand in the spring and fall. Don’t
cover your entire lawn with weed and feed just to kill a few
dandelions. Pincer-type, long-handled weed pullers are available at
many garden stores. They work well in moist soil with no stooping.
Pull dandelions when they’re young. For best results, get as much of
the root as possible.
n Spot-spray problem weeds with the proper herbicide at the
right time of year. Identify the weed to make sure you are using the
correct product.
n Read the label carefully before using any pesticide. Be sure
to follow all label warnings, wear proper protective clothing and
keep children and pets off the lawn for at least as long as the label
specifies. Only buy as much as you need and completely use the
contents before disposing of the container.
STEP 6: Consider alternatives to lawns for steep slopes,

shady areas and near streams and lakes.
n Leave a buffer of natural vegetation along streams and lakes
to filter pollutants and protect fish and wildlife. These buffers
should include shrubs and trees to shade the stream and ground
covers of native plants or low-maintenance grasses that are left
unmowed and wild. Avoid using pesticides or soluble fertilizers near
streams, ditches, wetlands and shorelines.
n Grass grows best on well-drained soil in full sun or partial
shade. Steep slopes are hard to mow and water. Call your Clemson
Extension office for information on alternative plants or grasses that
do well in shady, steep or wet sites.
Poor Soil: What to do?

If your soil is very poor and compacted, it may be best to improve
the soil and replant.
n Till up old lawn. If it is very weedy, remove the sod with a

rented sod stripper or spray glyphosate (Roundup) on it to kill
weeds.
n Get a soil test to find what’s missing and spread the
amendments (e.g., lime) suggested in the test results.
n Spread 2 inches of quality compost and till it in to a depth
of 6 to 8 inches. Sandy or gravelly soils may need other
amendments, too. Consult a certified landscaper or your local
Clemson Extension office for help with these soils.
n Rake the soil level, roll with a landscape roller, water to settle
for a day and rake again.
n Seed with an appropriate grass mix and water daily if the
weather is hot and dry until the lawn is well established.
Stock Photography

The Right Plants
Meet the ‘Beneficials’ ...
Spraying any pesticide may kill more beneficials
than pests. Think twice before you spray.
n Centipedes may look

scary, but they feed
on slugs and a
variety of
small
insect
pests.
n Ground beetles eat slug

eggs and babies plus
Begonia tuberhybridacultorum Zinnia elegans other soil-dwelling
pests.
n Hornets and
yellow jackets
are effective
predators of many
garden pests. Controls,
however, may be necessary
if they pose a threat to
people or pets.
n Lacewings
and their
alligator-like
Rhododendron “Hinodegiri” *Acer palmatum “Oskazuki” larvae eat
aphids,
scales,
mites,
caterpillars
and other pests.
n Ladybird beetle
larvae and adults
feed on soft-bodied
insects such as
aphids, mealybugs,
scale insects and
spider mites as well as
insect eggs.
*Viburnum tinus Tagetes patula

*These photographs are provided courtesy of Great Plant Picks.
About the S.C. Smart Gardener Program ...
The S.C. Smart Gardener Program was developed by a unique
partnership to encourage waste reduction and to protect land
and water resources in South Carolina. This partnership includes
the S.C. Department of Health and Environmental Control, the
Clemson Extension Service, the S.C. Conservation Districts Employees
Association and the S.C. Department of Natural Resources.
For more information, visit www.scdhec.gov/compost or call

1-800-768-7348.
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SOUTH CAROLINA

Round Composting Bin Food Composting Cone Bin

Land snails/slugs Screen Composting Bin Worm Composting Bin

Three-way Composting Bin and Cinder Block Composting Bin

2 S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook

Contact Information ...

S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook 3

Start with healthy soil.

4 S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook

Which soil amendment to use?

S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook 5

Which mulch to use?

6 S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook

When choosing a fertilizer, look for the words

FERTILIZER NUTRIENT CONTENT: 5:3:2 = 5 percent

S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook 7

8 S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook

* From the “S.C. Master Gardening Training Manual” prepared

S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook 9

The heat produced by bacterial activity increases

Nitrogen contained in yard trimmings and food

Finished compost is composed of microorganisms

10 S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook

Factors Affecting Coffee grounds

S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook 11

Mixing or turning the pile once or twice a month provides

12 S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook

Building a Compost Pile n browns, dry material (carbon);

S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook 13

Troubleshooting Tips for Composting Yard Trimmings

The pile is too small. Add material to fill bin or make 3 X 3 X 3

14 S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook

S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook 15

To a limited extent, compost is a source of A. Compost is the partially decomposed remains of

16 S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook

S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook 17

Q. Do compost “tumblers” work?

n Burying food scraps in the garden is a simple

How to Store Food Scraps

A 5-gallon bucket with tight lid can be used

Sprinkling an inch or two of sawdust, peat or

18 S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook

Worm Bin Troubleshooting

S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook 19

To Compost or Not to Compost?

20 S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook

S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook 21

Did you know that many landscapes require very little

That’s not all. Smart watering promotes a healthier

From May through September, water use in our

1. Where your water goes

n Build better soil with compost and mulch.

22 S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook

Drip and soak your way

S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook 23

Dripping and Soaking Tips n Adjust your watering schedule to track

24 S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook

Where, when and how much should you water?

S.C. Smart Gardener Handbook 25

n lant practical lawns. Include only as much lawn

n Till up old lawn. If it is very weedy, remove the sod with a