This document provides the materials, instructions and pattern for crocheting a little chick amigurumi toy. The chick is made of multiple pieces - body, head, wings, legs, beak, eyes and belly patch - which are crocheted separately then sewn together. Yellow, orange and white yarn are used along with black for the eyes. The pattern is written for UK crochet terms but a conversion chart to US terms is provided. Embroidered details are added to complete the chick.
This document provides the materials, instructions and pattern for crocheting a little chick amigurumi toy. The chick is made of multiple pieces - body, head, wings, legs, beak, eyes and belly patch - which are crocheted separately then sewn together. Yellow, orange and white yarn are used along with black for the eyes. The pattern is written for UK crochet terms but a conversion chart to US terms is provided. Embroidered details are added to complete the chick.
This document provides the materials, instructions and pattern for crocheting a little chick amigurumi toy. The chick is made of multiple pieces - body, head, wings, legs, beak, eyes and belly patch - which are crocheted separately then sewn together. Yellow, orange and white yarn are used along with black for the eyes. The pattern is written for UK crochet terms but a conversion chart to US terms is provided. Embroidered details are added to complete the chick.
This document provides the materials, instructions and pattern for crocheting a little chick amigurumi toy. The chick is made of multiple pieces - body, head, wings, legs, beak, eyes and belly patch - which are crocheted separately then sewn together. Yellow, orange and white yarn are used along with black for the eyes. The pattern is written for UK crochet terms but a conversion chart to US terms is provided. Embroidered details are added to complete the chick.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
30g approx Yellow (MC) for Body, Head, Wings.
15g approx Orange (CC1) for Foot and Beak. 10 g approx White (CC2) for Belly patch and Top Knot Small amount Black (CC3) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook 3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
19 cm (7.5 in) approx from top of head to bottom of feet.
Pattern Notes Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at: https://mycrochetchums.weebly.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Chick is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart at: https://mycrochetchums.weebly.com/ukus-crochet-terms.html
BLO back loop only
CC contrasting colour
ch chain
ch-sp Chain space
dc double crochet
dc2tog work two double crochet stitches together to decrease
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st. Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts Rnds 7-8: Dc around. Rnd 9: 1 dc2tog, 32 dc, 1 dc2tog. 34 sts Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 29 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 32 sts Rnd 11: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 27 dc, 1 dc2tog. 30 sts Rnds 12 - 14: Dc around. Rnd 15: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts Rnds 16-17: Dc around. Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts Rnds 19-20: Dc around.
Head If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial at: https://mycrochetchums.weebly.com/oval-start-photo-tutorial.html Stuff as you go. With MC chain 4. Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 12 sts Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts Rnd 7: Dc around. Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts Rnd 9: Dc around. Rnd 10: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts Rnd 11: Dc around. Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts Rnd 13: Dc around. Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts Rnd 15: Dc around. Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts Rnd 17: Dc around. Rnd 18: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts Rnd 19: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Eye - make 2 Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st into first dc of round to join. 4 sts Fasten off.
Beak With CC1, chain 4. Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook and rotating as you go, [3dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts Rnd 2: *3 dc, [2 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc] in 2 ch-sp; rep from * once more. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Top Knot Chains are not counted in stitch count for round.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts Rnd 2: Working into BLO of Rnd 1, [sl st, 4 ch] 6 times. 6 sts Rnd 3: Working into the FLO of Rnd 1, [sl st, 4 ch] 6 times, sl st into first st of rnd to join. 6 sts
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts Rnd 3:[1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts Rnd 5: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc, 2 dc2tog, 6 dc. 20 sts Rnd 6: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc. 16 sts. Rnd 7: 5 dc, 4 dc2tog, 3 dc. 12 sts Rnd 8: 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 3 dc. 9 sts Rnd 9: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts Rnd10: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Wing - make 2 Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts Rnd 6: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 14 sts Rnd 7: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 16 sts Rnds 8-9: Dc around. Rnd 10: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 12 sts Rnd 11: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Belly Patch With CC2, chain 6. Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 5 dc. Turn. 5 sts Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 7 sts Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 9 sts Rows 4 - 6: 1 ch, dc across. Turn. Row 7: 1 ch, 1 dc2 tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 7 sts Rows 8 - 9: 1 ch, dc across. Turn. Rnd 10: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 5 sts Row 11: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog. Do not turn. 3 sts Row 12: Rotating as you go, work 1 dc in the end of each row down the side, 1 dc in each of the unused side of the foundation chain, and the same up the other side, and back across the top of Row 11, fastening off with a slip stitch at the end of that row.
Making Up Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Beak in place roughly in line with Rnd 12 of the Head, centred on one of the flat sides of the Head. Sew the Eyes in place about 4 rounds higher, leaving a gap of about 4 stitches between them. Sew the Top Knot on to the top of the Head.
Sew the Body onto the Head, making sure the pointy tail part of the body is to the back.
Sew the Wings in place, in line with Rnd 16 approx of the Body.
Sew the Belly Patch onto the Body with the bottom of it sitting in line with Rnd 7 of the Body.
Sew the Legs into position, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, set forward so the Chick can sit down.
Embroidered details. Using the photos as a guide, use CC2 to embroider the highlights on the eyes and CC1 to embroider the zig-zags on the Belly Patch.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during
lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
