Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics From Malaysian PL

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Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics from Malaysian Plants: A Review

Article in Sains Malaysiana · May 2018


DOI: 10.17576/jsm-2018-4705-10

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Sains Malaysiana 47(5)(2018): 951–959
http://dx.doi.org/10.17576/jsm-2018-4705-10

Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics from Malaysian Plants: A Review


(Bahan Semula jadi dalam Kosmetik daripada Tumbuhan di Malaysia: Suatu Sorotan)

HASMIDA MOHD-NASIR & SITI HAMIDAH MOHD-SETAPAR*

ABSTRACT
Consumer consciousness on the concept of natural-based ingredients triggers the natural cosmetics market to grow. The
active compounds in natural ingredients offer valuable bioactivities such as antioxidant, photoprotection, anti-aging
and anti-inflammatory actions that useful for skincare, hair care and dental care. This review presents an overview on
natural ingredient, especially plant-derived, used in cosmetic products and the examples of Malaysian plants used for
cosmetic purposes.

Keywords: Active compounds; bioactivities; cosmetic; natural ingredient; plant-derived

ABSTRAK
Kesedaran pengguna terhadap konsep bahan berasaskan semula jadi mencetuskan perkembangan pasaran kosmetik
semula jadi. Sebatian aktif dalam bahan-bahan semula jadi menawarkan bioaktiviti yang berharga seperti antioksidan,
perlindungan sinaran, anti-penuaan dan anti-radang yang berguna untuk penjagaan kulit, penjagaan rambut serta
penjagaan pergigian. Kertas ini membentangkan gambaran keseluruhan berkenaan bahan-bahan semula jadi,
terutamanya daripada tumbuhan, yang digunakan dalam produk kosmetik dan contoh tumbuhan di Malaysia yang
digunakan untuk tujuan kosmetik.

Kata kunci: Bahan semula jadi; bioaktiviti; janaan tumbuhan; kosmetik; sebatian aktif

INTRODUCTION
such as paraben and silicone in their products (Belova &
The word cosmetic is always link to beauty. Cosmetic Eilks 2015). The term ‘natural’ for labelling especially
defines by Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act as ‘articles food products is permitted by U.S. Department of
intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, Agriculture if there are no artificial flavour, colour,
introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body chemical preservative or any artificial or synthetic
for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or ingredient (Peng et al. 2014). According to Corley (2007)
altering the appearance’. By this definition, Thornfeldt and Matthews (2007), the Natural Products Association
(2005) listed several products that can be denoted (NPA) recognizes products as natural if it contains 95%
as cosmetic which are shampoo, facial makeup, skin or more of ingredients from natural sources. However,
moisturizer, toothpaste, hair colour, deodorant and any no international definitions of natural cosmetic have been
component used in cosmetic product. In short, skincare, specified. Nevertheless, natural cosmetic is a general term
hair care, dental care, nail care and fragrance can be which applied to all preparation for external conditioning
categorized as cosmetic products. Cosmetics are often and beautifying the body from ingredients produced by
used to take care of body parts, but its alone does not or found in nature (Ammar et al. 2011; Dorland 2000).
provide beneficial effect to the users. The association Active ingredients from natural sources (plants,
of active ingredients into the cosmetic products are animals, microorganisms) have been traditionally used
essential to enhance the healthiness of the skin besides for centuries in topical creams and lotions (Fowler Jr. et
other activities as well, anti-aging, moisturizing and al. 2010). The concern of consumer and huge potential
acne treatment. The cosmetic products with active of natural ingredients contributes to prevalent utilization
ingredients having medicinal or drug-like benefits are of them in various industries (e.g. pharmaceutical,
called cosmeceutical (Kadam Vaishali et al. 2013). nutraceutical & cosmeceutical). Natural sources may
Cosmeceuticals reportedly are the fast-growing segment contain polyphenols, terpenes, fatty acids and vitamin.
in personal care industry (FDA 2002). that promote several bioactivities and can be associated
Current demand of going green triggers the in cosmetic products. For example, natural skin care
growth of natural cosmetic products in the market. The formulations exhibit antioxidant, hyperpigmentation
manufacturers often labelled their products associates inhibition and antimicrobial properties are beneficial to
with plant-based or organic ingredients as ‘chemical-free’ improve skin tone, texture and appearance (Emerald et
emphasizing lack or no potential harmful ingredients al. 2016).
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Malaysia is a country rich in plant biodiversity, which Kumar et al. (2016), natural cosmetic are in trend due
traditionally used for decades in wide range of purposes, be to several reasons which are; they are natural and free
it for medical, beauty or cooking. This review will focused from harmful chemical which minimizes the chance of
on plant-based constituents and summarized the history of adverse health problems, safe to use, compatible with
natural cosmetic, market demand, some natural ingredients all skin types, no side effect and nutrients provided by
used in cosmetics, examples of Malaysia’s plants with their natural sources. Technological advancement is another
biological effects and difficulties faced in order to turn the driver for market growth where the manufacturers are
ingredients into products. competitively researching on active constituents to
meet customer expectation. Costa (2015) reported that
the number of products in skincare sector with natural
HISTORY
ingredients as main substances has increased from 900 in
The history of cosmetic usage has started since prehistoric 2005 to approximately 6000 in 2012. Generally, Grand
time as illustrated in Figure 1. In the past, Aburjai and View Research, Inc. (2016) forecasted that the global
Natsheh (2003) stated that people used natural ingredients organic personal care market will reach approximately
in cosmetic with plant as a main source of it. However, USD 25.11 billion by 2025. At present, more than 30%
with the development of technology and civilization, the of the global share in 2015 was leading by U.S. organic
methods to synthesize substances with similar values cosmetic ingredient market, based on report by Global
were discovered. With that, the dependency on natural Market Insights Inc. (2016). The increasing of living
resources decreased until 20th century where the demand standard and demand for natural cosmetics in Asia Pacific
for green and safe cosmetics come in light due to consumer countries is expected to lead a remarkable growth in
awareness of disadvantages offers by artificial or synthetic revenue for this industry in the near future.
products.
NATURAL INGREDIENTS IN COSMETICS
MARKET POTENTIAL
The efficiency of active ingredients to be used in cosmetics
The demand in personal care market with active ingredient attributes to bioactivities present in the compounds. Several
is expanding driven by two major factors (Owh et al. properties have been reported to give advantages for skin,
2016). First is consumer awareness on environmental hair and dental, for instance antioxidant, anti-inflammatory,
issue and preference of healthy lifestyle. According to photoprotective, anti-aging and wound healing. This

Sources: Kadam Vaishali et al. (2013); Personal Care Products Council (2016); Lambert (2017); History of Cosmetics (2017)

FIGURE 1. Historical background of natural cosmetics


953

section will briefly summarize the role and potential of wrinkles of experimental group. Phenolic compounds rich
major active compounds in cosmetic formulation. extract of white kwaokrua plant was analyzed for their
anticollagenase, anti-elastase and antioxidant properties
FATTY ACIDS (Chattuwatthana & Okello 2015). By investigation using
in vitro enzymatic assays, the extract was significantly
Fatty acids used in cosmetics or personal care products inhibiting elastase activity and collagenase activity was
are obtained from seeds or nuts oil. They are divided to comparable to those of positive control, epigallocatechin
two categories which are saturated (e.g. lauric, palmitic, gallate. The potential of white kwaokrua extract in
stearic) and unsaturated (e.g. linoleic, linolenic, oleic) decelerating aging process has been proven through
fatty acids. Linoleic acid is the most common fatty acid this work. In addition, the study depigmenting effects
applied in cosmetic as it moisturizes the skin and for acne of catechins are shown to promote melanin synthesis
treatment. The anti-inflammatory action proved that the inhibition of B16 melanoma (Sato & Toriyama 2009).
application of γ-linoleic acid or omega-3 rich oil on 45 Polyphenols can also act as photoprotection (Martorana
participants decreased moderate acne significantly (Jung et al. 2013; Ruszova et al. 2013; Sevin et al. 2007) thus
et al. 2014). On another note, fatty acids are reported to allowing the compounds to incorporate in sunscreen
increase absorbing effect of skin. A study was conducted formulation as a prevention against ultraviolet (UV)
by Kim et al. (2008) to investigate the skin permeation radiation.
ability of different fatty acids on diclofenac. It was found
that fatty acids with short carbon-chain (C-12 to 16),
CAROTENOIDS
highlighting palmitic acid, were effective in enhancing
skin permeation compared to long carbon-chain fatty The best known antioxidants in carotenoids that always
acids. The role of fatty acids especially omega-3 (linolenic been applied in various industries are ß-carotene, lycopene,
acid) and omega-6 (linoleic acid) are extended to hair lutein, astaxanthin and zeaxanthin (Anunciato & Filho
cosmetic. The experiment was done by 6-months oral 2011). Carotenoids act as photoprotective against UV
hair supplement of omega-3 and 6 associates with other radiation due to it oxidative effect (Pandel et al. 2013).
antioxidants on 120 female respondents (Le Floc’h et Research by Scarmo et al. (2010) highlighted lycopene
al. 2015). The observation towards hair density, telogen and ß-carotene function as natural skin photoprotection
percentage and proportion of miniaturized anagen hair due to high level of the compound present in human skin
showed positive results and it was concluded that fatty of U.S. population compared to lutein and zeaxanthin.
acids can effectively prevent hair loss. Lee et al. (2014) Nevertheless, the roles of lutein and zeaxanthin towards
reported the potential use of omega-3 from rubber seeds photoprotective, skin elasticity and skin lipid peroxidation
as potential ingredient in lip balm due to its moisturizing has been proved by performing a clinical trial (Palombo
and smoothness properties. Ionescu (Bordei) et al. (2015) et al. 2007). The caroteniods were taken orally, topically
also suggested the importance of antioxidant activity of or in combination by human subjects either individual or
fatty acids in vegetable oils for cosmetic uses. both compounds. The highest antioxidant protection was
shown by administration of combined oral and topical
application for lutein and zeaxanthin. However, the
POLYPHENOLS
individual compound also indicates significant effect of
Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with skin photoaging and skin elasticity. Skin lightening is one
large group of substances based on the number and of the advantages offer by caroteniods. A pilot study was
position of hydroxyl groups attached to benzene rings conducted by Teo et al. (2015) to assess the effectiveness
(Vermerries & Nicholson 2006). The substances lies in of carotenoids rich dietary supplements as an addition to
this category are phenolic acids, flavonoids (e.g. falvonols, oral usage of commercial lightening cream for melasma
aproanthocyanidins), tannins, coumarins and stilbenes. treatment. From 44 patients completing the study, the
The scientific researches of these compounds have been authors concluded that oral supplements containing
extensively done especially on flavonoids group. The carotenoids decrease hyperpigmentation and serve as
antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory actions a potential skin lightening agent to treat skin problem.
present are beneficial in skin related cosmetic products According to Saba (2016), besides providing glow to
(Zillich et al. 2015). A clinical study was conducted by skin, the consumption of ß-carotene at adequate level can
Chuarienthong et al. (2010) where the efficacy of anti- prevent hair problems such as hair loss and dandruff.
wrinkle formulations containing flavonoids from gingko
and mixture of tea and rooibos was evaluated. Twenty
healthy women who meet the requirements were recruited PHYTOSTEROLS
and the observation was done for 28 days. The results Phytosterols (plant sterols) are cholesterol-like molecule
suggested that gingko formula was best for anti-wrinkle and can be found in vegetable oils such as avocado, soy
treatment since it can increase skin moisturization and bean and pumpkin seeds. They are normal components
smoothness; and reduce skin roughness and wrinkle. The in human diet. In cosmetic industry, a report prepared by
other formulation also showed positive effect in reducing Becker (2013) listed the products used phytosterols as
954

one of the ingredients which are 177 leave-on products group (placebo). The role of oxidative stress was associated
(lipsticks, deodorants, eye makeup); 215 rinse-off with hair loss treatment in this study.
products (hair products, bath soaps, detergents); tanning
preparations and up to 0.05% phytosterol was used in COSMETICS FROM MALAYSIA’S PLANT SOURCE
face powders. Quirin (2011) published in Euro Cosmetics
magazine that phytosterol possess photoprotective and Active ingredients can be obtained from plants as one of
anti-wrinkle efficacy owing to cell division encouragement the important sources in cosmetic industry. The biological
ability. Plant sterols are also provides moisture, barrier benefits possess by oil or extract of the plants often related
protection and antioxidant ability which present nutrition to its functions either preventing or treating skin, hair or
for health and skin (Fowler Jr. et al. 2010). Puglia and dental problems. For instance, antioxidants are responsible
Bonina (2008) presented a work to evaluate the effect of for oxidative damage prevention by chain-breaking of free
topical application of soy phytosterols on skin damage radicals. With that, they can inhibit oxidation reaction
and recovery of skin barrier. Two formulations were and act as protectors of other ingredients. Antioxidants
used; phystosterols + di-n-butyl adipate solution and were also useful to protect human skin from ultraviolet
vehicle only; in order to compare the efficiency of active radiation (Kusumawati & Indrayanto 2013). According
component with untreated site of skin damage. The finding to Soto et al. (2015), the scavenging activities of active
showed that the formulation containing phytosterols compounds towards reactive oxygen species (ROS)
exerts positive results on skin repair and barrier function make them applicable for anti-aging purposes. Tyrosinase
recovery owing to biological response showed by the inhibition activity is an essential factor for whitening or
compound. Another study by Sun et al. (2014) proved anti- antihyperpigmentation agent because this property is able
aging and anti-oxidative stress of sterol fraction, mainly to suppress dermal-melanin production (Uchida et al.
steroid, obtained from mussel. The data found from the 2014). Other than that, antimicrobial activity is reported to
investigation indicate that sterol fraction can prolonged be an effective treatment against acne (Shinkafi & Ndanusa
the life expectancy of yeast. 2013). Table 1 demonstrates several examples of plants
native or can be found in Malaysia which can be used in
VITAMINS
cosmetics based on different categories as well as their
therapeutic values and functions.
Vitamin is an organic compound and vital nutrient for
human being. Different types of vitamin have been studied
extensively in literature. The antioxidant and anti-aging CHALLENGES
benefit of vitamin A (retinol) is reported to reduce wrinkles, Incorporating natural ingredients into cosmetics obviously
depigmentation and provide skin smoothness. Forty one provide good results, especially to consumers. However,
healthy women were subjected to clinical evaluation by there are several points need to be considered by the
applying retinol formulation to the full face for 3 months manufacturers in utilizing natural ingredients. According to
(Kong et al. 2015). One of the research aims was to analyse Emerald et al. (2016), finding a reliable supplier with good
the effect of retinol treatment on facial wrinkle. The study quality of source, established quality assurance procedures
demonstrates that topical application of retinol render and services, clean processing and eliminates cross
anti-aging effect since epidermal thickening was observed. contamination has become a major challenge in cosmetic
In another study, the role of vitamin C or ascorbic acid and personal care industry. The risk of microorganism
was highlighted. Vitamin C is the major aqueous-phase contamination also should not be ruled out when dealing
antioxidant in human body. Lotions, serums, creams and with natural products. The absence of official guidelines
patches are among the products that used vitamin C in for safety assessment related to plant-derived ingredients
the formulation. It enhances skin lightening because this also contributes to the difficulties in cosmetic industry.
compound acts as tyrosinase inhibitor. Choi et al. (2010) This is due to the different approach in characterizing the
indicates the effectiveness of vitamin C on melanogenesis natural ingredients from plants, either by the mixture of
inhibition; and mushroom tyrosinase inhibition and components or the specific component content (Antignac
antioxidation. However, multivitamin supplements et al. 2011; Bialek et al. 2016). In view of the matter, it
were better in inducing hyperpigmentation action due is recommended to the authorities to prepare a proper
to combined beneficial activities. Ascorbic acid is also measure of different cases for better evaluation of safety.
potent in skin elasticity enhancement and treatment of skin Kusumawati and Indrayanto (2013) reported that
problems such as acne and rosacea owing to its collagen antioxidant activity which often cooperated with natural
synthesis and anti-inflammatory properties, respectively ingredient is chemically unstable so that maintaining the
(Telang 2013). In addition, Beoy et al. (2010) stressed bioactivities of natural antioxidants such as whitening
the important of vitamin E mainly tocotrienol in case effect, hydrating and depigmentation is problematic.
of alopecia, atype of hair loss. A group of volunteers Hence, a perfect formulation involving concentration of
consumed the supplement containing tocotrienol for natural ingredients need to give careful consideration and
8 months. The data showed that the number of hairs optimized so that the benefits claimed are not detrimental.
increased by average of 34.5% compared to controlled One of prevention step to overcome instability problem
TABLE 1. Plants used in cosmetics

Categories Sources Bioactive ingredients Therapeutic values Functions Reference

Skincare Turmeric Curcumonoids Antioxidant Anti-aging Alleman and Baumann (2009)


Anti-inflammatory Moisturizing
Green tea Catechin Antioxidant Depigmentation Alleman and Baumann (2009)
Photoprotective Sun protection
Aloe vera Phenolic, phytosterol, vitamin Antioxidant Anti-aging Javed and Atta-ur-Rahman (2014)
Wound healing UV protection
Moisturizing
Smoothness
Papaya peel Vitamin A Antioxidant Restore, rebuild damage skin Yogiraj et al. (2014)
Moisturizing
Smoothness
Lightening
Hair care Henna Lawsone, isoplumpagin, lupeol, Antimicrobial Hair/nail dyeing Singh et al. (2015)
n-tridecanoate phenolic glycosides, ß-sitosterol, Antioxidant Anti-dandruff Joshi and Pawar (2015)
stigmasterol Wound healing
Analgesic
Hepatoprotective action
Kaffir lime Sabinene, α- pinene, limonene, myrcene, citronellal and Antifungal Anti-dandruff Foo-trakul and Watchiradatsatiean (2005)
terpinen-4-ol Antimicrobial Provide aroma Kasuan et al. (2013)
Coconut oil Α-tocopherol, phenolic compounds Antiviral Prevent hair damage Rele and Mohile (2003)
Antioxidant UV-protection Prapun et al. (2016)
Shiny hair
Lip care Roselle Anthocyanins Antioxidant Anti-wrinkles Masri et al. (2002)
Moisturizing Abou-Arab et al. (2011)
Colour
Coconut oil Fatty acid emollients, antioxidants, vitamin E Antioxidant Moisturizing DLT Beauty (2017)
Hydration
Tomato Fatty acids, vitamins, phytosterol Antioxidant UV protection Fahimdanesh and Bahrami (2013)
seed Antibacterial Anti-wrinkles Bhide et al. (2013)
Ma et al. (2014)

(continued)
955
956

Continue TABLE 1. Plants used in cosmetics

Categories Sources Bioactive ingredients Therapeutic values Functions Reference

Dental Miswak Flavonoids, saponins, alkaloids, fatty acids, ß-sitosterol, Antimicrobial Teeth protection Ahmad and Rajagopal (2014)
care lignin glycosides, steroids, terpenoids, carbohydrates Antiphlogistic Decrease plaque, bleeding,
Antiviral gingival indices
Whiteness
Control dental caries
Tea tree 1,8-cineole, terpinen-4-ol Anti-inflammatory Gingivitis treatment Soukoulis and Hirsch (2004)
Antiviral Reduce plaque
Antifungal
Antibacterial

Piper betle β-Caryophyllene, quercetin, chavibetol, chavicol, Anti-inflammatory Prevent tooth decay Dwivedi and Tripathi (2014)
eugenol, tannins, alkaloids Antioxidant Reduce bad breath
Antibacterial Promote healthy teeth
Analgesic
Anticancer
Nutmeg Trimyristin, alkyl benzene derivatives, terpenes, Anticariogenic Inhibit oral patogen Shafiei et al. (2012)
α-pinene, ß-pinene, myristic acid, neolignan, Antibacterial
macelignan Antioxidant
Hepatoprotective
Anticarcinogenic
Anti-inflammatory
Fragrance Lemon Citral, Z-citral, linalool, geranyl acetate, trans-geraniol Antifungal Flavouring agent Srivastava et al. (2013)
grass Antibacterial Fragrance ingredients
Antiseptic
Antiastmatic
Rose Terpenes, glycosides, flavonoids, anthocyanins, Antibacterial Flavouring agent Eikani et al. (2005)
2-phenylethanol, Antioxidant Perfuming effect Boskabady et al. (2011)
α-Pinene, β –Pinene, myrcene, o-cresol, linalool, Antitussive Relaxant effect
α-terpineol, Analgesic Heals depression, grief,
citronellol, geraniol, eugenol Hypnotic nervous stress and tension
Antidepressant
Ylang-ylang Geranyl acetate, linalool, geraniol, farnesol, benzyl Anti-depressive Fragrance ingredients Ali et al. (2015)
acetate, geranial, methyl chavicol, beta-caryophyllene, Relieve anxiety
eugenol, pinene, farnsene Good for insomnia
957

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS var. mirifica root extract and Coccinia grandis fruit juice
The authors acknowledge the Ministry of Higher Education extract: An in vitro study. European Journal of Medicinal
(MOHE), Malaysia and Universiti Teknologi Malaysia for Plants 5(4): 318-327.
the financial support of Research University Flagship, Choi, Y.K., Rho, Y.K., Yoo, K.H., Lim, Y.Y., Li, K., Kim,
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Effects of vitamin C vs. multivitamin on melanogenesis:
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