2022-07-01 Australian Gourmet Traveller Docutr Com

As innovative as it is intuitive: the Mercedes-Benz
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I N N O VA T I O N S B Y
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Food The
spice
issue
82 SCENTS OF PLACE
Tour the Middle East with chef
Paul Farag’s favourite dishes
from Aalia.
Chermoula lamb ribs fatteh...85

Grilled prawns, corn, saffron
pine nut milk.........................87
102 SPICE WORLD
Experience the evolution of
spice through Eleanor Lord’s
Dandelion cacik and ras el new book, The Nutmeg Trail.
hanout crudités ...................87
Fried cauliflower in baharat Scallops with ginger and black
and tahini sauce .................88 pepper ................................. 107
Shawarma-spiced chicken Salted chicken with green
with garlic toum...................88 ginger and red chilli ......... 107
Halawet el jibn and candied Every week tomato lentils .. 108
pine nuts ...............................90 Pork shoulder vindaloo ....... 109
Coconut basbousa and Turmeric and tamarind
fenugreek custard...............91 jamu...................................... 109
92 PASSAGE TO INDIA
Helly Raichura delivers Bengali
spice at Enter Via Laundry.
110 OUT OF AFRICA
Chef Anto Cocagne delves into
the flavours of Africa in her new
cookbook, Saka Saka.
Wattleseed and poppy seed
fritter.......................................94 Red rice..................................... 113
Beetroot Hindi..........................95 Cassava and prawn
Mughlai lamb curry.................97 fritters.................................... 114
PHOTOGRAPHY ELISE HASSEY.

Green beans and coriander Rabbit kedjenou ..................... 114
stir-fry .....................................98 Sautéed beef with spinach
Stir-fried warrigal greens sauce..................................... 115
and vegetables ...................98 Fat rice ...................................... 115
Pine mushroom malaikari ...100
Bengali prawns and
seablite................................100
JULY 2022 Features
ON THE COVER
Aalia (p82)
60 SPICE OF LIFE
Elevate your pantry with Larissa Dubecki’s breakdown
of the most iconic spice blends through history.
Recipes Paul Farag
64
Photography Ben Dearnley
BALANCING ACT
Styling Steve Pearce
Anne Hasegawa uncovers the spicy secrets of umami’s
lesser known sibling, yakumi.
SUBSCRIBE
68
magshop.com.au/GMT
Details p79 A TOUCH OF MAGIC
Traditional aphrodisiacs are still seducing diners in
unexpected ways, writes Anna McCooe.
Regulars 73 HOT HISTORY

Discover a world of heat with Nadia Bailey’s peek into
the history of chillies from around the globe.
11 UPFRONT Editor’s letter, contributors and news.
28 A QUICK WORD Pallavi Sharda.
30
Travel
THE KITCHEN GARDENER Bitter oranges.
32 COMMUNITY X KYLIE Christine Manfield.
34 FIVE OF A KIND Masala chai.
36
38
WINE COUNTRY Mornington Peninsula.
COCKTAIL HOUR Trinidad Sour. 120 ROCK THE KASBAH
Step into a world of spice and colour. Hannah-Rose
Yee journeys across the heart of Morocco.
41 REVIEW Dining out.
49 EVERYDAY Simple, fast, everyday meals.
58
118
MASTERCLASS Harissa.
THE ART OF TRAVEL Moderation.
132 TREASURE HUNTING
Sail through the Maluku Islands with Max Anderson as
he discovers the archipelago’s dark and storied past.
130 CHEF’S GUIDE Nashville, Tennessee.
140 CHECKING IN Ovolo South Yarra, Melbourne.
146 STYLE Home, fashion and beauty.
154 OBJECTS OF DESIRE Incense holders.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY
Gourmet Traveller acknowledges the Gadigal people of the
Eora Nation as the traditional custodians of the place we
now call Sydney, where this magazine is published. Gourmet
Traveller also pays respects to Elders past and present.
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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 7
HAR
D
TO FIND
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Editor
ED
IT
Acting Deputy Editors Alix Davis & Anna McCooe
Art
Art Director Lauren de Sousa
Designer Holly Doran
Words
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Writer Jordan Kretchmer
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Food
Group Food Director Sophia Young
Senior Food Editor Dominic Smith
Style
Creative Consultant Hannah Blackmore
Contributors
Max Anderson, Nadia Bailey, Fiona Donnelly, Larissa Dubecki, Michael Harden,
Anna Hart, Anne Hasegawa, Matty Hirsch, Kylie Kwong, Samantha Payne,
Simon Rickard, Jessica Rigg, Katie Spain, Max Veenhuyzen, Hannah-Rose Yee
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8 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
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Welcome to a
Wonderlust tea party
wedgwood.com.au
Editor’s letter
SUBSCRIBE NOW
magshop.com.au/gmt
Details p78
There are few things more inviting than the aroma of
Editor’s letter
gently toasted spices on a cold winter’s night. Or, as
was the case when we shot the cover for this issue, an
Arctic autumnal afternoon. The scent alone is enough
to start warming you, even before you sit down and
tuck into their subtle, complex flavours.
It’s easy to see why spices have been so coveted
throughout history, acting as a form of currency across
centuries and civilisations. As Max Anderson
discovered when he visited Indonesia’s Maluku
Islands, spice was once so valuable to the Dutch, they
traded Manhattan – then known as New Amsterdam
– for the islands, which were the sole source of
nutmeg at the time.
In this issue, we explore a world of spice, flavour
and history, from Helly Raichura’s Bengali recipes,
to a Middle Eastern feast from Paul Farag. Along
the way, we also visit Africa, Asia, Morocco and
Tennessee. Whether it inspires you to travel, or
simply to cook something new, we’re confident
this issue will encourage you to spice up your life.
OU
R ME HERE WE
W
G
’V
WHAT GT LOVES THIS MONTH
E BEEN
A
ED
P
PROV
PHOTOGRAPHY ELISE HASSEY (MOROCCO) & ALANA LANDSBERRY (PORTRAIT).
July luggage Jaraman half-bottles

You’ll always stand out from the Good things come in small
crowd – and baggage carousel packages and as demand for
– with July’s vibrant new magenta quality wines in small formats
colour range, which includes free grows, Taylors Wines has
personalisation on every case. released its Jaraman collection in
july.com/au demi-bottles. Small but mighty.
taylorswines.com.au
TIALS
EN
VEL ESS
Maison Balzac The Tasman, Hobart

Elise Pioch Balzac has been There’s a lot to love about
RA
T bringing a touch of French flair Hobart’s grandest new hotel,

to Australian tables for 10 years The Tasman, but guests staying
now and her new collection, Les in the St David’s Park Suite have
Fruits de Mer, is her most playful one extra-special luxury: this
yet. We especially love the new timber bath, handcrafted from
pom pom candle holders. Tasmanian blackwood. Exquisite.
maisonbalzac.com JOANNA HUNKIN, EDITOR
EMAIL [email protected] // FOLLOW @ GOURMETTRAVELLER // ONLINE GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU
Contributors
Passage to India
p 92
NADIA BAILEY HELLY RAICHURA ELISE HASSEY

writer chef photographer
Hot history, p73 Passage to India, p92 Rock the kasbah, p120
Writer Nadia Bailey went deep into Helly Raichura shares her Indian Photographer Elise Hassey went
the library stacks to research the heritage through her restaurant from her coastal hometown of
chilli’s spread across the world. Enter Via Laundry. The Carlton Yamba to the North African
“Chillies are commonly referred to North restaurant focuses on the country of Morocco for a photo
as ‘chilli peppers’ due to the hyper locality of Indian cuisine, and assignment that captures the
PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN (MAIN).
Spanish colonisers, who came to the nuances within it. In this issue thrilling beauty of the coastal
the New World in search of black Raichura shares recipes from its metropolis and its many medinas.
pepper (which was very expensive current Bengali menu. “The food “From streets filled with the sweet
at the time),” says Bailey. “Instead, often looks simple but so much of scent of orange blossoms,
they found chillies and – equating it is slowly made and artisanal,” exuberant bazaar bargaining,
its heat with black pepper’s spice says Raichura. “It’s only when you golden sunsets over the ancient
– called it pepper as a canny look closely you can see how Marrakech rooftops and endless
marketing move. Though the much knowledge and experience mint tea, Morocco’s rich culture
capsicum family has no relation, the – and how few food kilometres – engages and delights every
term persists to this day.” go into a single dish.” sense,” says Hassey.
Be a part of our family
champagne-bollinger.com
Dishes and destinations
The Gourmet Traveller team share where
they’ve been and what they’re eating.
Shangri-La Yanuca Island, Fiji

Yes it’s good for kids - but you know a resort hits the
“luxe family vacay” mark when parents get an hour or
two each day free of all parental responsibilty. I took
mine at golden hour, along with a herbaceous gin
cocktail known as a Basil Smash. Thanks kids club!
Anna McCooe, acting deputy editor
Poly, Sydney
Barbecued oysters covered in
oh-so-buttery goodness is just one
of the tasty snacks that has us so
enamoured with this inner-city wine bar.
Trust the chef and order the full tasting
Lake House, Daylesford menu. You won’t regret it.
You know a dish is good when you order 76 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills, NSW
it again a day later - and so does your Lauren de Sousa, art director
dining companion. A thick layer of sweet
spanner crab sits atop chewy koshihikari
rice in a rich umami-spiked sauce on
the Lake House’s autumn menu.
Joanna Hunkin, editor
Ori’s Bar, Bondi

Da Orazio’s bar offshoot is peddling
this golden disc that sandwiches layers Agnes Bakery, Brisbane
of mortadella with cacio e pepe sauce, I hopped aboard the kouign-amman
all before coating in breadcrumbs (pronounced “queen ah-mahn”) hype train
and frying. This idiosyncratic take a couple of years ago, and I’m glad I’m still
on the deli staple is one of the riding it. This one from Agnes Bakery was
ost fun we’ve seen yet. exemplary: sweet, buttery and brilliant.
75/79 Hall St, Bondi Beach, NSW 85 James St, Brisbane, Qld
Jordan Kretchmer, writer Callum McDermott, acting digital editor
NEWS
J U LY
Edited by JORDAN KRETCHMER
Moonhouse,
Melbourne
p 19
T H E H E AT I S O N
PHOTOGRAPHY JANA LANGHORST.
Chefs pick their favourite spicy dishes, a hot

sauce shop, new restaurants to try and fiery
condiments worth seeking out.
T H E L AT E ST F R O M C H E F S A N D R E STAU R A N TS A R O U N D AU ST R A L I A
R E S TA U R A N T N E W S
SYDNEY
While chef Somer Sivrioğlu may have
become a household name in his birth
land of Turkey thanks to his role judging
Masterchef, he’s back in Australia,
opening Maydanoz down the Wynyard
end of the CBD. Focusing on vegetables
– but not wholly vegetarian – the
100-seat restaurant plucks inspiration
from the Aegean Turkish coastline.
Meze-style bites favour bright herbs,
spices and grains and legumes, be it
carrot hummus with turmeric and
dukkah; dolmas with sun-dried eggplant,
rice, chickpea, tomato and mint; and
cavolo nero and leek pie with zucchini
and haloumi. Wine-wise, mineral-driven
drops taken from amphora vessels and
organic vineyards will lead the wine list,
which can be enjoyed alongside
complimentary dips and flatbread during
Maydanoz’s weekday happy hour.
The CBD scores another win with
the arrival of French brasserie, Manon.
Taking up shop in the former Jet Bar
Caffe digs on the corner of the Queen
PHOTOGRAPHY VICTORIA CHAN (MASHI NO MASHI), NIKKI TO (MANON) & STEVEN WOODBURN (MAYDANOZ).
Victoria Building, the Euro-chic diner is
being overseen by Marco Ambrosino
and Manny Spinola, who most recently
opened Lola’s in Bondi. The corner QVB
spot is primed for its all-day service,
from baguettes, coffee and croque-
monsieur from 6am to late-night suppers
on Fridays and Saturdays. For long
Clockwise from above: lunches and dinners you’ll find bone
Maydanoz’s dining room and marrow tartine; steak frites; crab bisque
Zumrut cocktail; cacik with soufflé, beef Wellington and duck
grilled cucumber and mint at
Maydanoz; duck à l’orange at à l’orange, all to be enjoyed in an
Manon; wagyu ramen at Mashi elegant setting that draws upon the
No Mashi. architecture of the QVB and the classic
style cues of French bistros.
Across the way in Pyrmont a ramen
concept has arrived at The Star direct
from Tokyo. Mashi No Mashi centres
Ozaki beef from Japan, a hyper premium
beef, which they describe as being the
top one per cent of Kobe beef, sourced
from the top 20 best farmers in Japan.
Co-founder chef Hisato Hamada
developed 24-hour stewed Ozaki beef
bone stock, and is excited to bring the
concept to Australia after spending
much of his childhood in Sydney.
News
Over the bridge chef Sam Young

(ex-Lotus) has opened S’more alongside
his partner Grace Chen in Castlecrag.
The pair, who delivered some serious
decadence throughout lockdown caters to vegans and coeliacs, with an
through their private catering gig, the emphasis on slowly fermented spelt
Big Sam Young Experience, will continue sourdough pizza, alongside organic Clockwise from
to serve up luxury bites, including XO spelt pasta, house-made desserts above left:
sourdough spelt
pipi linguine, lobster pasta and bone-in and cocktails.
PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN (MOONHOUSE), RAOUL GERARD (FARRO) & JANA LANGHORST (MOONHOUSE).
pizza at Farro;
sirloin with ginger shallot relish. In Ballarat, Pencilmark Wine Room Alberta’s Kitchen
is set to open at the original Underbar and Store’s
VICTORIA Ballarat site. Chef and owner Derek Ben Ing in the
Flinders Lane has a new izakaya- Boath is behind the new wine bar, which kitchen; pipis
at Moonhouse,
inspired bar restaurant dubbed Otōto, will focus on minimal intervention and the bar.
from the team behind Akaiito. Literally producers. He will also oversee the
meaning younger brother in Japanese, move to Underbar’s new location, which
the underground bar is located below will retain its small, intimate feel, moving
its big brother Akaiito. Head chef into Vera, a luxury seven-room hotel
Winston Zhang doesn’t stick wholly to set to arrive on Sturt Street.
a Japanese menu, also including
ingredients and techniques from Korean WESTERN AUSTRALIA
and Chinese cuisines. You can expect In Busselton, Alberta’s Kitchen and
robata-grilled meats; kingfish sashimi Store has opened, backed by two former
with grapefruit, daikon and ponzu Noma alumni. Owners Ben Ing and Kirsty
served elegantly atop a slab of pink salt; Marchant met while working together at
and steak tartare with shallots, shio koji, the esteemed Copenhagen restaurant,
pear, cured egg yolk and prawn crackers. and will bring their experience in the
Following some delays Moonhouse kitchen and on the floor to the producer-
has opened in Balaclava. The Chinese focused eatery. Rather than being
bistro by Commune Group is headed up a restaurant or café, the space will
by executive chef Anthony Choi and evolve, starting with morning bites, with
head chef Shirley Summakwan, who plans to introduce a lunch service and
combine nostalgic Chinese flavours with special dinner events. Working directly
a top-notch Australian wine list. with the farmers and producers, the
In Hawthorn, Farro has opened menu is ever changing depending on
another location. The organic pizza spot access to produce.
Clockwise
from left: On
Saengyojanr;
Dan Hong;
Annita Potter
and her jungle
prawn curry;
Louis Tikaram.
On Saengyojanr
(Ging Thai, Melbourne) Dan Hong (Mumu, Sydney)
“I visited The Boiling Crab in Glen “A couple of weeks ago I had an amazing Sichuan-braised fish at Loon
Waverley recently and indulged in a spicy Fong in Chinatown. Most people are used to the chilli oil version but
seafood boil that is now one of my there are many different versions including a green Sichuan pepper and
absolute favourites. Even though it’s pickled chilli braised fish that we had. Not super spicy in terms of heat,
Cajun-style, the aroma and warmth but the numbing sensation was insane, as the green Sichuan
reminded me of my childhood in Thailand, peppercorns are known to be the most fragrant and numbing. The fish
eating stir-fried crab with chilli jam.” was melt in the mouth and the whole dish was addictive.”
The Boiling Crab, Shop 7-9, Loon Fong, Shop 2/63 Dixon St, Haymarket, NSW.
52 O’Sullivan Rd, Glen Waverley, Vic.
HOT PLATES
Chefs share the best spicy dish they’ve
eaten this year.
Annita Potter (Viand, Sydney)

“Setting up my own restaurant over
the past year has left little time to dine
out. But one spice-forward dish I’m
proud of at Viand is a curry of jungle
prawns with long leaf coriander and
golden shallots. It is a boiled curry
made from a fresh paste of green
chillies and wild ginger. Not only do
you have the spiciness of the small
scud chillies but also the pepperiness
from the wild ginger working in
harmony with each other, an
explosion of flavour which isn’t
Louis Tikaram (Stanley, Brisbane) masked by coconut cream.”
“The beef rendang from The Indonesian Kitchen at Viand, 41 Crown St,
Mullumbimby Farmers Market is so spicy and amazing. Woolloomooloo, NSW.
PHOTOGRAPHY MILAD K (HONG).
Chef Rini uses lemongrass, galangal and chillis from her

garden to cook the most aromatic and spicy rendang
with local Byron bay beef. It’s the perfect breakfast
when I’m home visiting my family in Mullumbimby.”
The Indonesian Kitchen, 51 Main Arm Rd,
Mullumbimby, NSW.
News
2
THREE OF A KIND
3PEPPER GRINDERS
1
Le Creuset
This practical, classic grinder comes in a series of poppy, bright SOME LIKE IT HOT
colours, making it a solid choice to have in both the kitchen and on This chilli oil created by
the table. $70, lecreuset.com.au. Melbourne chef Sandra
2
Dinosaur Designs Seah is as crisp and chunky
Sculptural in its form, this pepper grinder could be mistaken for as it is moreish. Amped up
a tabletop artwork thanks to its stylish resin exterior. It will bring both b y t h e a d d i t i o n o f Ko r e a n
seasoning and style to any dinner table. $330, dinosaurdesigns.com.au chilli flakes, dried shiitake
3
Hay and Sichuan peppercorns,
This salt and pepper grinder designed by George Sowden features this chilli oil is both
a stainless steel exterior and ceramic grinder, replete with a playful versatile and delicious.
colourway and simple aesthetic design. $80, hayshop.com.au $ 1 7. 5 0 f o r 2 1 2 m l ,
s i xe y e d s c o r p i o n .c o m
JU
ST
OPEN
ED
ETHICAL OMINIVORES
PHOTOGRAPHY PETRINA TINSLAY (FEATHER AND BONE) AND KLAUS L. MØLLER (HAY).
Sydney’s Feather and Bone Providore has opened

its second location, with the ethically focused
butchery arriving in the eastern suburbs. The whole
animal butchers specialise in sustainable practices
and transparently sourced meats, and offer their
expertise when it comes to using the whole animal
and serving lesser known cuts of meat. Co-owners
Laura Dalrymple and Grant Hilliard also plan to
welcome some of their favourite farmers to the shop
for a series of special in-store events. Punters will
also find takeaway food and ready-to-eat meals
prepared by in-house chef Hamish Pollitt, including
lamb shank ragù; Lankan red goat curry (using
O Tama Carey’s curry powder); and chicken and
corn soup; alongside ready-to-eat sandwiches
and bone-boosted broths. featherandbone.com.au,
270 Bronte Rd, Waverley, NSW
News
table sauces to add more spice.”) followed by phase

two, aka the death era. (“This was when flavour went
out the window, because it was about extreme heat.
They pushed it to fulfil thrillseekers”) Finally the third
phase or present wave favours natural and craft
sauces. “I want that to be natural – people spend so
much money on organic groceries or making an
organic meal, and then they’ll put sauce on top of it
filled with additives, preservatives and junk.” To
ensure they are bringing punters along for the ride
– no matter their spice threshold – Mat’s Hot Shop
offers tastings of the 170-odd sauces on the shelves.
“We chat to customers about what they are after: the
heat level they are comfortable with, and the flavours
they enjoy.” From there they narrow it down to five or
HEAT WAVES so choices from their selection of all things fermented,
Condiments have long inspired fierce allegiance and funky, fruity, briney, umami-spiked and pickled.
debate ( just ask anyone what they think of Vegemite), but “They are generally surprised by the flavours and the
it’s the humble hot sauce that captured the devoted gaze fact hot sauce isn’t just the red sauce you find on the
of Mat Garthwaite. Tired of working in the music industry, table any more. There’s so many crazy different
he made a quick-fire exit and launched Mat’s Hot Shop, flavours. We always break it down to smoky, sweet,
which had its beginnings in markets and online, before its savoury and sour – and then we can point you in any
Collingwood shop cropped up late last year in Melbourne. direction.” So when it comes to condiments, the world
The saucy shop pulls together fiery condiments from really can be your oyster, with a good glug of natural
across the globe including oils, sauces and chutneys, with hot sauce on it. 204A Wellington St, Collingwood, Vic,
a focus on naturally made, Australian numbers. “At first, matshotshop.com.
I struggled to find 10 local makers doing all-natural hot
sauces when we launched – now we stock around 55,”
says Garthwaite. He also hopes to introduce people to
sauces whether they seek heat or not. “People have really
bad experiences with hot sauce. There’s this extreme side
to it and the challenge side – that’s the last thing I want
people to worry about with what we do,” he says. “The
priority is the flavour, and it’s not a competition. I want to
find you something you can enjoy and use on a day-to-day
basis to make your food better.” This speaks to the
broader trend afoot within the hot sauce-making
community, which Garthwaite refers to as the “third wave”
of hot sauce. Phase one was the initial introduction of hot
sauces to tables (“Think Tabasco, high vinegar – simple
News
KITCHEN DREAMING
Aboriginal designer and curator Alison Page has joined forces with
Breville in a partnership between First Nations People and the National
Museum of Australia. The new line of kitchenware reflects 65,000
years of ongoing Australian Indigenous culture through the
collaborative design initiative. The Aboriginal Australian Culinary
Journey sees art by Western Desert artists, Yalti Napangati, Yukultji
Napangati, Warlimpirrnga Tjapaltjarri, and Sydney artist Lucy Simpson
(pictured), adorn a series of appliances. 100 per cent of Breville’s
profits will go to three Indigenous-focused charities, including the
National Indigenous Culinary Institute. breville.com.au
TOP CHOCS
Flavour worlds collide in this left-of-
centre collaboration between
Melbourne’s much-loved crispy chilli oil
slingers, Chotto Motto, and vegan
chocolatiers, Birdsnake. The product of
their unlikely friendship is a tongue-
tingling, palm-sized chocolate bar
that’s as cute as it is flavoursome.
Rice crisps and a subtle undercurrent
of chilli deliver Chotto Motto’s
signatures, while Birdsnake has infused
65 per cent Ecuadorian vegan
chocolate with warming cinnamon and
nutmeg. $14.50, chottomotto.com.au
WINE TASTING
Hunter Valley winery Mount Pleasant is embarking on a fresh
chapter, with a revitalised cellar door experience. Celebrating
its centenary last year after being founded in 1921, the cellar
door’s new menu has been devised by chef Justin North
alongside newly appointed head chef, Kyle Whitbourne.
Inspired by Mediterranean snacks and the direction of chief
winemaker Adrian Sparks you can expect a mix of excellent
bites – be it lightly marinated yellowfin tuna with sesame,
kohlrabi and dashi or wild boar and fennel seed salami – ideal
for tasting with Mount Pleasant’s elegant and balanced wines.
mountpleasantwines.com.au
News
T FOR
EA
GI
GR
FTING
SALTY
HARISSA HITS SWEETS
Melbourne chef Tom Sarafian continues to Butter purveyor Pepe Saya
has teamed up with
expand his range of flavour-boosting pantry
Olsson’s Salt to create this
staples, with a new harissa. After indulgent new caramel.
successfully releasing a toum and hummus, With both chocolate-
his latest effort is a rich red paste full of coated or straight-up
caramel options, the
charred bullhorn peppers and red chillies. It
old-school treats are
can be used to marinate meats or served handmade in Marrickville
with cooked meat, as a dip for veggies or by Adora Chocolates.
as a condiment for chilled prawns or oysters. From $19.95,
$19 for 300gm, sarafian.com.au pepesaya.com.au
O N T H E PA S S w i t h A L E JA N D R O H U E RTA , N 0 9 2
How did you get into cooking? My grandmother and mum both love cooking and that’s
why I got into it. I realised food brings people together and nourishes. I then studied the
culinary arts and fell in love. I went to work at Pujol in Mexico City and stage at Noma.
What are you trying to do at No 92? It was a wine bar doing European food, but little by
little, we’ve started doing more Mexican food to reflect my experiences.
Tell me about your tortillas. We press our tortillas to order. In Mexico, tortillas are one of
the most important ingredients. My family would never eat a tortilla that’s a day old – it’s
something Australians don’t understand. Cooked fresh – it’s much softer and lighter, like
a thin pancake – instead of it being dry.
How do you serve your mole with ceremonial tortillas? Mole is the most traditional
salsa for Mexican cuisine. We do a red mole with roasted tomatoes, onions, garlic,
different chillies like morita and ancho chilli, and pistachios, pepitas and peanuts that
give texture. We serve it with seasonal mushrooms and then make an XO with black
PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTOFFER PAULSEN (HARISSA).
garlic and fermented porcini mushrooms. We cook the tortillas halfway – take the wood
seal with the pattern of the Aztec sun – we put some thickened hibiscus syrup on the
wooden seal and put the tortilla on top, and seal the colour on the plancha again.
How do you use spice? We focus on Mexican chillies, but I like using ingredients from
other cultures. When Noma were here doing the MAD symposium, they were talking
about “What is Australian food?” It’s the mix and match of all these things. It’s Italian,
Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese. I like that because in Mexico we call them mestizos
– we have our Aztec heritage, but we also have Spanish culture. It’s been a mix of
cultures – that’s something I like to reflect in my food.
No 92, 92 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe, NSW, no92gpr.com.au
Clockwise from left: the
rooftop bar at QT Newcastle; king
salmon sashimi with golden
sesame and ponzu at QT;
Porter House Hotel Sydney.
T H E L AT E ST B O U T I Q U E A N D LU X U RY H OT E L S
HOTEL NEWS
NEW SOUTH WALES kitchen thanks to executive chef
Sydney will welcome the grand new Massimo Speroni, who joins from
Porter House Hotel Sydney in July. Brisbane fine diner Bacchus. At Jana,
The MGallery branded property will Speroni has designed a menu with
host 122 guest rooms across 10 floors, a range of local, dry-aged steaks, and an
while an adjoining five-storey hospitality overall emphasis on simple dishes that
venue will be home to a Euro-inspired hero produce from the Hunter region.
delicatessen and wine bar called Henry’s
Bread and Wine, as well as an in-house QUEENSLAND
florist, all-day diner and café. Upstairs, Situated between Surfers Paradise and
you’ll find modern brasserie Dixson Broadbeach, you’ll find the brand new
& Sons, with cocktail bar Spice Trader Langham Gold Coast, housed within the
due to open later this year. tallest of the three Jewel towers. The
Up the coast, QT Newcastle has property is the first Gold Coast resort to
opened, with 104 rooms and suites, offer direct beach access in more than 30
a restaurant from a chef with Michelin years, with the luxe 339-room hotel
star experience, and a rooftop with overlooking the sprawling beachfront as
sweeping views. It’s taken over the well as the Gold Coast hinterland. Guests
former David Jones building, in Hunter will also have access to a pool bar,
Street Mall, right in the thick of town. The Cantonese fine diner T’ang Court, all-day
PHOTOGRAPHY MARK LANE (QT).
heritage-listed building is more than 113 diner Akoya, open-air cocktail bar Coral
years old, and boasts prime harbour Moon, and Palm Court, which will host
views. As with QT’s other locations, the The Langham’s much-loved afternoon
hospitality line-up is a major part of the tea. Much like its other locations, The
appeal – for both guests and locals, with Langham Gold Coast will also incorporate
Jana, the signature restaurant, set to wellness with Chuan Spa, a holistic spa
prove popular. It’s a modern Australian that draws on traditional Chinese
bar and grill, with some firepower in the medicine practices.
A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n
QUEEN ANNE:
THE NEXT IN A FINE LINE
Be inspired by the past while sailing towards the future on Queen Anne,
the newest in Cunard’s remarkable quartet and the finest ship of its era
T
here’s an inauguration on DESIGN, REDEFINED The first piece of metal cut will be
the cards – welcome Queen A perfect amalgamation of Cunard’s transformed into an onboard piece of
Anne, the much anticipated classic art deco style and striking modern art by acclaimed sculptor Sam Shendi.
addition to Cunard’s fleet. design, Queen Anne’s interior is both
The latest in this fine line of luxury ships thoughtful and utterly extraordinary. WORLD CLASS COMFORT
(their 249th!) is ready to set sail in early The team of world class designers have Queen Anne’s luxury staterooms are
2024 and is now open for bookings. You included plenty of Cunard’s much-loved unparalleled – exquisitely furnished,
can be part of the celebrations as she sets signature spaces while taking others in a stylishly designed and thoughtfully
off on her maiden season, travelling the fresh design direction to cater for new curated for your comfort. Occupying
ocean in style to greet over 30 unique and exciting experiences. A proud the prime, central location on board,
ports across the Northern Hemisphere addition to the fleet, Queen Anne has the Grill Suites are the epitome of
for the very first time. Elegantly designed been surrounded by celebration from extravagance, providing a place to call
and dripping with luxury, she’ll have the cutting of her first steels in the your own and allowing you to retreat
heads turning for all the right reasons. Fincantieri shipyard in Naples in 2019. to a haven of comfort at sea.
DINE LIKE A QUEEN
On board, Cunard’s signature
Afternoon Tea is elevated to new
heights alongside the ultimate in fine
dining experiences. Debuting exciting
new options in addition to the fleet’s
existing favourites, and always
showcasing the finest authentic
ingredients from across the globe,
Queen Anne’s cuisine is fit for royalty.
B O N V OYAG E F R O M 2 0 2 4
Like the queen she is, Queen Anne
will sail in style for a maiden season
that includes iconic Mediterranean
cities, tropical Caribbean islands and
Norway’s picturesque fjords. Share the
experience as she receives a royal Cunard’s Queens
welcome for her first time in each Queen Mary 2
exciting port from early 2024. The world’s only true ocean liner,
Queen Mary 2 knows she’s
impressive and has the decor to
match. Splendour abounds on
board, and she’s been known and
loved at ports around the world
since she entered service in 2004.
Queen Elizabeth
Art deco elegance adds a layer
of refinement to uncrowded,
spacious decks on Queen
Elizabeth, homeported in Australia
every summer. Enjoy a friendly
match of croquet on the Games
Deck or some entertainment in
the Royal Court Theatre.
Queen Victoria
Warm and welcoming, Queen
Victoria is known for her
hospitality. Her expanded sun
deck (perfect for relaxing) and
Britannia Club dining (loved by
foodies) provide the backdrop to
a truly spectacular holiday.
For more information visit

cunard.com
Clockwise from top right: Grand Lobby;

Queens Room; Queens Grill Restaurant;
Queens Grill Grand Suite - Master Bathroom;
Queens Grill Grand Suite - Great Room.
Opposite page: Queen Anne
QUICK
A
W
ORD WIT
PA LL AV I H
S H A R DA
The Indian-Australian actor
and star of The Twelve on her
favourite spices, solo travel
and the problem with dill.
PHOTOGRAPHY YIANNI ASPRADAKIS.
Interview HANNAH-ROSE YEE
Memories
The taste of home for me is very simple North Indian

cooking: dhals, chapatis and a bowl of yoghurt…If I’ve been
on the road a lot and eating set food, if I can get that in front
of me it almost brings a tear to my eye. I went on a little solo monk-
like retreat on the west coast
I was very curious as a kid about cooking. I would watch
of Mexico to a tiny surfer
my mum create these meals. She was this magician with
a sprinkle of cumin seeds and a touch of turmeric. What village. I think that was
always fascinated me was the way she could take raw the most magical trip.
ingredients – nothing in our home was bought. Even the
dough was kneaded at home. A lot of people buy the dough
for dosa from a packet and mix it in with water but my mum
would grind the lentils with the rice and ferment it for two One thing I’d always do [making The Twelve] is if we were
days. She taught me the basics when I was very young and shooting out in Parramatta I’d go to the local South Indian
I’ve survived on those basics ever since. restaurant and I’d buy dosa for my cast that day. [My co-star]
Sam [Neill] and I used to sit together at lunch and I think he
I actually travel with my spices. Customs is always very quickly got the sense of how cheesy my sense of
hilarious, I’m like, “No, no, please don’t take my spice jars!” humour is. I’m very lucky to have worked with him. I did flex
I always have cumin seeds, mustard seeds, turmeric, ground slightly and told him that I actually finished law school and
coriander and panch phoron, which is an Indian five spice he didn’t – but he’s playing the lawyer…It is interesting that
mix. My mum always does one up for me and I travel with it I went to Melbourne Uni law school and the first time I sat
wherever I go. On my last stop I always gift my spices to through an entire case was in make-believe [on The Twelve].
a friend before I return to Australia.
I have never watched a legal drama and I’ve actually
I used to be a sweet person, but I’m in an equal stayed away from them in my career. There’s always
opportunity stage in my life between sweet and savoury. something triggering when someone sends me a script for
I think my tastebuds have changed and my eating habits a doctor or a lawyer, like, no I didn’t want to do that in real life
have changed overall. But I love spicy. Gotta be spicy! You so I don’t want to play that. But The Twelve is not a traditional
can’t have savoury without spice…I hate dill. Put dill in the procedural in that sense. It was very obvious from the writing
room and I will start to gag. I’m a chocolate fanatic. If I start, that it wasn’t about the procedure of law per se, as much as
I can’t stop. And Mum’s kulfi, which is like an Indian pistachio it was about the humanity of the characters.
ice-cream that she makes, it’s delicious.
Being back in Australia to shoot this role was very
I was in Mexico last year on my own. I wrapped [Netflix symbolic for me, as someone who in my younger years was
rom-com] Wedding Season and I had some time before told that this sort of thing wasn’t going to happen, you wouldn’t
starting The Twelve in Australia, which never happens, and see an Indian woman in a leading role in a big Australian
I went on a little solo monk-like retreat on the west coast of television show. And also, [my character] Corrie is someone
Mexico to a tiny surfer village. It was the off-season and there who is very sexually empowered and we see this overtly on
weren't a lot of tourists around. I think that was probably the screen, and I don’t think that has ever been inhabited by
most magical trip. I’ve had wonderful holidays, going to Italy a South Asian woman in Australia before. This could be
or Greece with friends and travelling around, spending time a generalisation, but in my experience certain things are very
in merriment, but the most memorable one recently is that taboo and not spoken about. Let’s just say I’m a bit scared
time spent alone. about my parents watching a couple of episodes! ●
The Twelve screens on Foxtel and Foxtel Now.
T CH EN GARD
K I EN
H E ER
T
Bitter oranges
The cook’s choice for a zesty marmalade, the bitter
orange hits its peak in winter, writes SIMON RICKARD.
O
ranges are a natural hybrid between two wild citrus species, the
mandarin and the pomelo. No doubt you are familiar with the
mandarin. But you might not know the pomelo, which bears fruits
almost the size of a soccer ball, with very thick pith, and a mild bitter
flavour. The orange probably first appeared in the region bordering southwestern
China, northeastern India and Myanmar, where the ranges of the pomelo and
mandarin overlap.
The word “orange”, famous for not having a rhyming partner, comes to us
from Sanskrit nārangah, via Persian nārang, Arabic nāranj, Spanish naranja,
PA R T O N E
Italian arancia, and finally French and English orange. The word “orange”, to
describe a colour, was not used in English until the 16th century.
The term “orange” actually applies to two rather different fruits: the bitter
orange, and the sweet orange. Bitter and sweet oranges are non-identical twins.
They share the same parentage, but are quite different from one another.
The bitter orange inherited its thick rind and bitter taste from the pomelo,
but its orange colour and cold tolerance from the mandarin.
Don’t be put off by the term “bitter”. It doesn’t mean that bitter oranges are
“failed” sweet oranges. They have a different function from sweet oranges. They
are flavouring agents, not designed for eating out of hand. Bitter oranges are the
cook’s choice, since their dry flesh and highly perfumed, pectin-rich rind impart
a big orange flavour without adding excess moisture.
Grow your own
Bitter oranges are at their

best in winter, when we
appreciate their zingy
flavour and cheery colour,
in the form of marmalade.
Marmalade is made with “Seville” oranges, Bitter oranges’ spring blossom is used to make
the best known variety of bitter orange. orange flower water, used in sweet and savoury
Marmalade is said to have originated in Dundee, dishes around the Mediterranean basin. The
in chilly Scotland, where citrus trees definitely flowers are distilled to make neroli oil, used in
won’t grow. Just like sherry from Jerez, and port perfumery, while petitgrain oil is derived from the
wine from Porto, Seville oranges were imported bitter orange’s shoot tips.
into Britain from the Iberian Peninsula, where Bitter oranges can be grown in most parts of
the climate is more to their liking. The word Australia and New Zealand, even in places with
“marmalade” has its roots in the Portuguese word reasonably cold winters. They make very
for quince paste, marmelo. If you’ve ever visited ornamental trees, with dense, evergreen foliage and
Seville in Spain, you would have marvelled at the surfeit of richly scented blossom in spring. It helps
14,000 orange trees planted in the streets, to know which rootstock your tree is grafted onto
festooned with pretty fruit. for maximum success. Some rootstocks perform
“Seville” oranges flavour liqueurs such as best in hot sandy soils, others tolerate cold, clay
Grand Marnier and Cointreau, as well as soils. Some result in a full-size tree that you can sit
traditional French canard à la bigarade, reimagined under, while others result in a dwarf tree suited to
in 1960s Britain as duck à l’orange. Seville orange pot culture. “Trifoliata” is a good all-round
ILLUSTRATIONS ADOBE STOCK
rind finds its way into Scandinavian glögg at rootstock for backyard growers.
Simon is a Christmas, and Sicilian desserts such as cassata Bitter oranges are at their best in winter, when
professional and panettone. Apart from the “Seville” bitter we appreciate their zingy flavour and cheery colour
gardener, oranges, there is the “Chinotto” bitter orange, the most, maybe in the form of chunky homemade
author and
baroque
which gives us the bitter black drink of the same marmalade spread on thickly buttered toast. As
bassoonist. name, and “Bergamot” oranges perfume Earl Grey spring approaches, sweet oranges come into season.
@simon_rickard tea with their fragrant rind. I will cover those in the next issue.
CHRISTINE
MANFIELD
Kylie Kwong celebrates the
individuals helping to grow
a stronger community.
This month, we meet
celebrated chef, author,
and culinary travel guide,
Christine Manfield.
I was first inspired by

Chris Manfield’s
dynamic energy and
intensity 25 years
ago when I met her
while working for
Neil Perry. With each
exchange I always
learn something new from her, she is one
of this country’s greatest cookbook
authors and a natural, generous teacher.
I have keenly followed her rich, broad and
colourful career path, holding her in the
highest regard, as I do Maggie Beer and
“Y
Stephanie Alexander.
I love the way Chris’s career has kept ou can’t help where you’re born but you
evolving well after hanging up her can choose where you live,” says Christine
restaurateur hat. Most of all, I admire Manfield, speaking from her home in
the way she takes everyone along on northern New South Wales, where she lives
her wonderful journey. with her partner of more than 40 years, Margie Harris.
She laughs as she says it but there is a profound truth
behind those words. Choosing where to live – and the
journey that has taken her on – has been one of the driving
forces behind Manfield’s diverse and storied career.
Today, Manfield is a household name –
a leading cookbook author and chef, who was
the creative force behind Sydney’s award-winning
restaurants Paramount and Universal. She has
been guiding small groups of culinary adventurers
through India since the late ’90s, and has
continued to host domestic tours throughout
the pandemic, with a focus on connecting to in Adelaide, it made Manfield realise “anything
country and First Nations’ culture. was possible”.
But just how she got here has been a long Searle left Adelaide to open Oasis Seros in
and winding road, one that began with leaving Sydney, with Manfield joining him to make her
Brisbane. “We’re talking Brisbane in the ’50s and professional transition into the kitchen. She and
’60s, when it was a tin pot, redneck town. I still Harris were ready to leave Adelaide, which had
have family there but it’s a place that I ran away come to feel like “a country town”.
from when I was 20 in the early ’70s because “We were spending a lot of our time living
of the really right-wing government. in Paris and New York. The only city at the time
“That oppression and that had a pulse was Sydney.”
suppression, I just wanted to “Travel really became Manfield quickly found
get as far away from as success in Sydney, opening
the impetus for a deep
possible. I moved to Adelaide. Paramount with Harris in
WORDS JOANNA HUNKIN (MAIN) & KYLIE KWONG (INTRO). PHOTOGRAPHY BROOKE DARLING (MANFIELD) & MARK POKORNY (KWONG).
In the early ’70s, that was the immersion into the 1993, and becoming one of
most liberated state in food world...I was the city’s brightest new food
Australia, and progressive in always interested in stars. A decade later, she
terms of its social policies.” went to London to open
After leaving school at an experience other East@West in Covent Garden,
15 with no qualifications, than what I knew.” to further acclaim, before
Manfield’s newfound freedom returning to Sydney to open
inspired her to return to Universal in 2007.
school and earn her teaching degree, introducing “I knew I had one more left in me so I wanted
her to a world of new flavours along the way. to come back and complete that vision. That’s how
“Being a student and living with international Universal came about. I opened Universal with an
students, I got introduced to this whole wide exit strategy – it was all purpose planned. Not
world. Spice started to inform or be part enough businesses think about that… My motto
of my everyday experience and was the food has always been leave on a high and leave them
that I craved and started to bring into my wanting more.”
everyday repertoire.” Which is how we find her now, at home and
Manfield went on to teach for seven years, preparing to head to Adelaide for the final leg of
spending the school holidays travelling and her Indian Cooking Class book tour, before she
exploring new cultures. “Travel really became hosts two tours of the Ikara-Flinders Ranges at
the impetus for a deep immersion into the food the Arkaba Homestead.
world and that’s really how it all collided and came “Coming into the business, not a teenager
together. I was always interested in an experience but mid-life, made me more hungry. Life’s too short
other than what I knew.” for mediocrity. Reach for the stars and push yourself
During that time, she became friends with to get there. Don’t ever become complacent.
a fellow teacher, Phillip Searle. When he left “I’m still on an incredible learning curve.
teaching to open his own restaurant, Possums There’s still so many opportunities out there.
That’s the beauty of food and travel. Being able
to juggle both those things and make them
work for me. It’s part of my everyday life,
they’re not separate.” ●
Five of a kind
ORCHARD STREET
This aromatic and
MONK’S CHAI spice-forward mix favours
clove and nutmeg, while
Blended in Melbourne, this
piquant black pepper
ethically focused chai blend
undertones are balanced by
possesses a subtle warmth
the sweetness of ironbark
thanks to the addition of pimento
honey. The amber jar is
and cayenne peppers, contrasted
refillable and preserves the
with the sweetness of organic
bold flavour of the tea.
agave. Made by baristas, this chai
$28 for 240gm
comes with detailed brewing
orchardstreet.com.au
instructions to recreate
a café-style chai latte at home.
$25 for 250gm
monkschai.com
REMEDY & SPICE

Richly redolent of ginger and cardamom,
this sticky chai maintains its powerful
aroma from packet to brew. Focused
solely on chai blends, this Melbourne-
based tea maker nails the balance of
aromatics with black tea.
$29.95 for 250gm
remedyandspice.com.au
Masala chai
Originating in India, this spiced
black tea blend has become
a favourite around the world.
WORDS JORDAN KRETCHMER. PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING EMMALY STEWART.

IMPALA & PEACOCK
This non-traditional chai calls upon
wattleseed and chicory root in
place of black tea to deliver
a toasty caffeine-free take on the
brew. The biscuity notes pair well
with oat milk, and it can also be URITE
served chilled and black. VO
A
M F
$29 for 110gm

impalaandpeacock.com.au
TEA
GT
CHAI WALLI
Drawing on founder Uppma Virdi’s grandfather’s
heritage as an ayurvedic doctor and remedial tea
blender in India, this chai possesses herbaceous
and floral top notes with a delicate lingering of
cardamom, cinnamon and clove. The female-led tea
outfit is committed to the art of chai, holding online
courses, blending and education workshops.
$15 for 100gm, chaiwalli.com.au
The genius of Maurice O’Shea.
Captured by Max Dupain.
Continued by Mount Pleasant.
Mount Pleasant. Created by a legend.

OVER 100 YEARS OF WINEMAKING
visit www.mountpleasantwines.com.au
Mornington Peninsula
V I CTO R IA
Wondering what to pair with spicy food? The answer lies
90 minutes south-east of Melbourne, writes SAMANTHA PAYNE.
S
pice is every sommelier and winemaker’s more excellent example of the food pairing potential
nightmare; in basic wine-tasting principles, of this variety than Australia’s spiritual home of
you want wine to pair cohesively with all pinot gris/grigio, Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula.
fruit, acid and alcohol elements integrated Mike Aylward, winemaker and owner of Ocean
with the dish. But what’s the one thing spice does? Eight, explains the secret to pinot gris’ pairing with
It exacerbates all those elements in the wine. spices: “The wine sits almost behind the palate, the
Samantha is
a sommelier, However, there’s a hidden power in pinot gris’ weight handles chilli and spices and the acidity
writer and wine neutrality and subtle citrus notes; and its versatility cleans and refreshes the palate after every bite.”
consultant. across aromatic spices – from garam masala and “Since we started, the pinot gris has been one
@sl_payne
coriander root to Sichuan pepper. And there’s no of our most consistent styles of wine; that’s due in
Wine country
LA
N INSU
PE
ON
GT
IN
RN
Port Phillip Mornington
MO
E OF MORNIN
ST
Sorrento
G
TO
AT
N
Phillip
Island
Bass Strait
part to the variety itself being so consistent to work with.

2021 Quealy Mornington Peninsula
All we need to do is barrel ferment as it adds a beautiful
Pinot Grigio, $28
richness to the wine,” says Aylward. And with this vintage
The queen of aromatic whites in the Mornington is
producing 2500 to 3000 cases, gris production shows no
a delightful take on classic pinot grigio. Crunchy
sign of slowing down at Ocean Eight.
pear meets ripe yellow peach with a lovely saline
Most of the planting material for Australia’s pinot gris
minerality. It’s slurpable, gluggable and
began in the vineyard of what is now called Charles Sturt
a benchmark for textural whites in this country.
University in Wagga Wagga. This vineyard was first planted
quealy.com.au
in the 1970s by the founding fathers Dr Tony Jordan, Brian
Croser and Dr Max Loder. In the late ’80s, winemakers
Kevin McCarthy and Kathleen Quealy took cuttings to the 2019 Kerri Greens Clementine Vendange Tardive
Mornington Peninsula to create the first mass planting of VT Gewürztraminer Pinot Gris, $40
pinot gris. Quealy was told about the variety’s potential in A little left of centre but perfect for a spicy stew.
Victoria by her university lecturer (who hailed from Alsace in A blend of gewürztraminer and pinot gris grapes
France, which makes arguably the world’s best pinot gris). was left on the vine for an extended time to let
His insight and Quealy’s tenacity paved the way for botrytis ripen to an extreme. The result? Nectar of
Mornington Peninsula to become Australia’s home of pinot the gods with ginger blossom and lychee notes.
gris, with their first commercial release in 1993. kerrigreens.com
We know the Mornington can make classically aromatic
styles of wine, but what about those wanting to push 2021 Ocean Eight Pinot Gris, $40
innovation? Winemaker Tim Elphick from Stilvi is entering This wine displays refreshing citrus flavours of
his third vintage with a focus on exploring the depths of mandarin, cumquat and Granny Smith apples.
pinot gris. “It’s an extremely complex variety, and we can try The Ocean Eight style shines with elegance and
different old and modern techniques to preserve acidity and a palate weight between classic gris and grigio.
enhance texture,” says Elphick. “I’m playing around with The lemongrass notes pair well with ocean trout.
skin contact, inspired by Georgian and Greek wines and oceaneight.com.au
their use of qvevri for extended fermentation.”
PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING EMMALY STEWART.
Quealy explains that Mornington’s coastal plains and 2021 Montalto Savagnin, $40
lighter soils cause pinot gris and grigio grapes to ripen earlier An excellent Australian aromatic wine.
while retaining natural acidity, creating a generous middle The elevation and red clay soils of Mornington give
palate without unctuousness that’s perfect for pairing with this wine similar lemon pith and oyster shell
a variety of dishes. “Pinot gris is rustic – it eschews overdone characteristics of a Savagnin from France’s Jura
aromatic characters – it soothes. There’s an almost ozone region. Perfect with fragrant spices and seafood.
character, a fresh-air salinity that’s like a breath of fresh air.” ● montalto.com.au
2020 Scorpo Pinot Grigio Tradizionale, $45

The Mornington Peninsula is located on the Allowing wine extended skin contact increases the
traditional lands of the Boon Wurrung/Bunurong people beautiful pink notes in the skins. Morello cherry,
of the Kulin Nation. They are the protectors of the lands dragon fruit and subtle spices suit red-braised
from the Werribee River to Port Phillip Bay to Westernport wallaby tail or duck with Davidson’s plum sauce.
Bay to Phillip Island, fertile grounds traditionally used for scorpowines.com
hunting kangaroo and cultivating native yam daisy.
Cocktail hour
Jacoby’s Trinidad Sour

Chill a coupe glass. Combine 45ml Angostura bitters,
20ml rye whiskey, 30ml orgeat and 20ml freshly
squeezed lemon juice in a cocktail shaker. Fill the shaker
with ice, shake vigorously and double strain into the
T R I NIDA D SO U R coupe. Orgeat is a sweet almond syrup flavoured with

rosewater or orange-blossom water, commonly found in
I
Tiki cocktails, and is available from select bottle shops.
n theory, a cocktail made with a whopping
shot-and-a-half of Angostura Bitters just
shouldn’t work. Yet, it’s the bracing
intensity of flavour and unmistakable
Christmassy spice that make the Trinidad Sour
such a curious and compelling drink.
Bartender Giuseppe González came up with
the polarising modern classic at Brooklyn’s
celebrated Clover Club and entered it into
a cocktail competition back in 2009. Using
Trinidad and Tobago’s most popular flavouring
agent as the feature ingredient – backed up with
rye whiskey, orgeat and lemon – may not have
wowed the judges, but the unorthodox move has
amassed more than its fair share of fans. Chief
among them? Pasan Wijesena, owner of Jacoby’s
Tiki Bar in Sydney’s inner west.
“Ironically, despite the amount of bitters,
the drink isn’t bitter at all,” he says. “It’s quite
rich, spicy, sweet and vibrant, while the lemon
keeps it nice and balanced. I think that
bartenders have as much fun making this one
as guests do drinking it.”
WORDS MATTY HIRSCH. PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING EMMALY STEWART.

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EASY TO
T R AV E L
T R E AT YO U R SE L F
O R S O M E O N E S PE C I AL H A R D T O F I N D . C O M . AU
REVIEW
J U LY
Dining out
This month, we explore some of the hottest restaurants across
the country, including Melbourne’s Parcs and Sydney’s Parlar.
Parlar,
Sydney
p 43
Review
CK LOO
UI
K
20 Ninderry Rd,
Yandina, Qld
spirithouse.com.au
CHEF
Aaron Tucker
OPENING HOURS
Lunch Tue-Sun;
Dinner Wed-Sat
PRICE GUIDE $$
BOOKINGS
Essential.
VERDICT
CLASS Vibrant Thai dished in
HE I
tranquil, leafy surrounds. Clockwise from left:
C
T
pa thong ko; chef

Yandina, Aaron Tucker.
Qld
and galangal. Fermented coconut
S P IR I T H O US E
cream at the base supplies a welcome
contrast, with texture from a cracker
made from shiitake broth and tapioca.
There’s a lot in play – all of it good.
There’s nothing quite like Sunshine Coast’s Spirit Spirit House’s signature is a whole
crisp fish, sometimes baby barramundi,
House. Here vibrant Thai dishes pair beautifully with served with tamarind chilli sauce. It’s
idyllic water views, writes FIONA DONNELLY. still available with a $10 surcharge.
I opt instead for a lobster krapow and
road-test the wok hei supplied by new
wok burners. Coins of sweet Western
I
Australian lobster tail accompany my
’m seated in a red-lacquered Thai-style pavilion – which still manages stir-fry, curving coolly around a spicy
pavilion, transfixed by views of to feel like it’s been here forever. mess of chewy Korean rice cakes
a sunlit lagoon that’s waterlily- Covid sadly scuppered the menu’s freighting a whisper of smokiness. The
dotted and bordered by leafy palms, sharing format. Since reopening in April noodles are swathed in a sauce
bamboo and colourful cordylines. a one-sitting per session, $95 three- full-bodied with anise, roasted chilli
It feels tranquil, timeless and miles course ($115 four-course) prix fixe has paste and topped with Vietnamese
removed from everything – including been the go. mint, Thai basil and more rings of chilli.
the hum of the nearby Bruce Highway Sand whiting fished from Tin Can The drinks list favours aromatic,
– a distraction that dissolves as you Bay, up the coast, comes out in an spice-friendly options, with a great
enter Spirit House’s garden setting. aromatic batter imbued with coriander line-up of beers including local brews.
This Sunshine Coast drawcard has root, white pepper and garlic. It’s a fun, Desserts are thought-through, too.
been captivating diners for 27 years. upside-down take on som tam, the crisp Pa thong ko, Thai doughnut, is light
No matter how many times you visit, tempura fillets crowned with green and airy. A slick of duck egg custard
it’s impossible not to unwind as you fall papaya strands, birdseye chilli, and brings richness and there’s snap too
under a subtropical spell. coriander. A sprinkle of a brick-coloured from a cracker crafted from coconut
Given the serenity, it’s the last place dust of dehydrated shrimp paste, sugar caramel. A light snow of cured
you’d picture vandalism striking. But in tomato and chilli adds zing. There’s egg yolk supplies salty umami balance.
August it was so badly wrecked during crunch, freshness and spice aplenty. Chef Aaron Tucker steps aside this
a break-in, it closed for seven months. A larb entrée showcases crudo winter after five years. His replacement
Fortunately the owners have been able water buffalo meat, sourced from North is Tom Hitchcock. The team remains
to use the downtime, installing a new Queensland. The hand-cut buffalo is but Tucker’s deft touch will be missed.
kitchen, upgrading dining areas, adding dark and gamey. It’s mixed with a fiery Undoubtedly, Spirit House will sail
bars, a wine cellar and rebuilding its dressing powered by black chilli paste serenely as it’s done for decades. ●
Left: Parlar’s bar. Above, from
left: Morcilla sandwich; chorizo,
Manchego and egg on English
muffin; bacalao croquette with
sturgeon caviar.
CK LOO
UI
K
Shop 3/81 Macleay St,
Potts Point, NSW
parlar.com.au
CHEF José Saulog
OPENING HOURS Take heed, though: At around $15
Lunch Fri-Sat
Dinner Tue-Sat each (and $40 for the caviar croquette),
PRICE GUIDE $$$ these bites quickly add up. The
BOOKINGS
temptation is to order one of everything
Recommended. – but you may live to regret your
VERDICT A pricey but gluttony when the bill arrives. Plus you’ll
NEWCOM worthwhile addition to
want to save room for the larger dishes.
E the Sydney scene.
TH
Like the vitello-tonnato-esque wagyu

ER
Potts Point,
NSW carpaccio, served on a pool of bonito
allioli. It’s a real winner. For mains,
PA R L A R there’s an excellent steak and a couple

of great fish dishes, but the fideuà
marinera is a star: the Valencian dish,
similar to paella, is a lovely jumble of
Chef José Saulog’s homage to Catalonia is the talk of sweet seafood atop crisp, salty pasta.
For dessert, go for the crema Catalana
the town with a buzzy vibe, seamless service and fine – crème brûlée’s Barcelonian cousin.
tapas to match, writes CALLUM MCDERMOTT. Parlar means “to talk” in Catalan,
and the atmosphere here is always
buzzy. Most of the time that translates
to a vibey, euphonic din. But at times,
T
a loud group can overwhelm the
he first thing you’ll notice as It’s worth enjoying your apéritif with acoustics of the small room, to
you enter Parlar’s sleek Potts thin slices of wonderfully fatty jamón every other table’s detriment. What
Point space – next door to its ibérico, but I suggest diving straight a beautiful room it is, though. There
sibling, Franca Brasserie – is the into the tapes (Catalan for tapas) – isn’t a bad place to sit, whether you’re
service. The team has cracked the a ripper roster of bites. Start with the up at the bar, on a banquette, or
front-of-house alchemy of appearing pan tomate, a riff on the humble scooched into a central booth. Cream
as soon as you need something, then Catalan dish pa amb tomàquet: toasted walls, lit up by warm sconces and
instantly fading into the background. bread garlanded by a glossy gradient offset by pops of tangerine and
You’ll see staff address all sorts of of red, orange, yellow and green tobacco furnishings, frame the
snafus with graceful guile. tomato slivers. The anchovy churro is striking space. It’s a shame about
Consider kicking things off with a nice sweet-salty interplay; the the drab bathrooms, which pull you
a cocktail. Highlights include the bacalao croquette topped with caviar out of the seductive spell of the luxe
Twisted Sangria and the Riviera – is a fun gussy-up of a classic; and the dining room.
a refreshing lip-smacker that pairs morcilla sandwich – served on its side Sydney can punish your wallet, and
gin and sherry with grapefruit. with a stegosaurus spine of cornichon Parlar is certainly up there. But it has
The lengthy wine list is packed with slices – is deeply satisfying. It’s the service, atmosphere and – most
varietals from up, down and around bread-heavy, but inform staff of dietary importantly – the food to back up the
the Iberian Peninsula. needs and they’ll serve a substitution. punchy price point. ●
Review
In among the exotic ingredients is

a healthy smattering of Fleurieu
Peninsula producers; Feather & Peck
eggs, Choice Mushrooms, Cape
Calamari, Fleurieu Milk and prime
Ellis Butchers cuts.
STINA All dishes are best shared and
DE T
many put vegetables in the spotlight.
E
IO
TH
Aldinga, Vegan kimchi dumplings heave with

SA
a medley of house-made kimchi, roast
carrot, gochugaru (Korean chilli
powder), candle nuts, gochujang
(fermented red chilli paste), roast
THE LITTLE RICKSH AW capsicum, Japanese brown rice

vinegar and sesame oil. Protein is put
on a pedestal, too. Wagyu thin skirt
topped with a chimichurri-style betel
A menu of Southeast Asian spice and soul showcases the leaf sauce and bonito vinegar is an
best of the Fleurieu Peninsula, writes KATIE SPAIN. exercise in balance, while the
palate-bending garlic chilli hand-
pulled noodles with char-grilled SA
king prawns showcases the kitchen’s
I
19-plus varieties of chilli. The small
f the number of local winemakers warren of stone and corrugated iron but beautifully executed dessert
dining at The Little Rickshaw is an walls. The long, narrow kitchen looks menu highlights Trinh’s love of
indication of community support, out over a courtyard which, weather pepper; none more than the savoury
owners Mike and Trinh Richards have pending, allows enthusiastic waitstaff pink pepper panna cotta with
PHOTOGRAPHY DUY DASH.

it in spades. Wine and hospitality to comfortably welcome 40. Davidson’s plum compote, star anise
stalwarts are all part of the patchwork Over the years, the menu and crisp palm sugar wafers. Like the
at this Southeast Asian-inspired underwent a culinary metamorphosis clientele, the wine list heaves with
restaurant. The regulars were there in of sorts. It just keeps getting better. small-batch innovative McLaren Vale
2017, when TLR launched as a pop-up The efforts in the kitchen are producers. A seat among them is
Vietnamese takeaway stand in the collaborative, adventurous and coveted but well worth the effort. ●
quaint town of Aldinga. Back then, inspired. TLR’s soul is Vietnamese
Trinh and Mike juggled hospitality day but dishes (split across bites, grazing,
jobs and ran their little stall on Sundays feasting and dessert) shift and
with the help of Trinh’s mother Loan change with the seasons. In winter,
(aka “Ma”) who grew up in Vietnam’s Thai spices permeate curries and
Bao Lô.c and her husband (a former during summer, the hibachi gets
fisherman) who hails from Mũi Né. a workout. Japanese flavours such
Word of mouth buoyed TLR’s as kosho, koji, smoked soy, and
transition from pop-up, to café, and white shoyu feature in the likes of
finally, the bustling haunt it is today. plump Abrolhos Island scallops
A wooden A-frame leads the way to nestled in decadent bone marrow
the 1850s blacksmith hub’s rustic rabbit and torched miso butter.
CK LOO
UI
Q
24 Old Coach Rd,

Aldinga, SA
thelittlerickshaw.com.au
CHEF
Trinh Richards
OPEN
Lunch Sun
Dinner Thurs-Sat
PRICE GUIDE $$
BOOKINGS
Recommended.
VERDICT
Good spicy things
come in small, soulful
packages.
The Little Rickshaw dining

room. Opposite, clockwise
from top left: garlic chilli
noodles with char-grilled
king prawns; and kimchi
and roasted carrot
pot-stickers; chef Trinh
Richards; pink pepper
panna cotta with
Davidson’s plum compote.
Review
CK LOO
UI
K
198 Little Collins St,
Melbourne, Vic
parcs.com.au
CHEF
Dennis Yong
OPENING HOURS
Dinner Tue-Sat
PRICE GUIDE $$
BOOKINGS
No bookings.
that are at their best served alongside
VERDICT
A worthy cause made a smashed melon dish turned funky
surprisingly delicious. with a house-made orange kosho that
brings an attractive lick of chilli heat to
the proceedings. Or golden fried rice
Clockwise from that somehow manages to turn
left: Parcs’ ostensible scraps – outer cos leaves
NEWCOM façade; golden
E from Sunda (salted down and spiced),
fried rice; chef
TH
ER
Melbourne, Dennis Yong. leftover salmon pieces from The

Vic Windsor dehydrated for intensity –
into a multi-layered beauty that might
PA R C S
haunt your dreams.
Then there’s Yong’s clever, witty
take on cacio e pepe – umami e pepe
– that throws Hokkien noodles and
Trash becomes treasure in the most surprising way at bread miso into the mix and is already
– deservedly – becoming the latest
this Melbourne diner, writes MICHAEL HARDEN. Melbourne cult dish.
The drinks at Parcs keep with the
program with wine leaning minimal
A
intervention and house-made
kombucha on the list. That’s probably
ny regular restaurant diner and reducing wastage to intriguing and the least surprising thing about Parcs
knows that moments of often vividly delicious good use. The but also a good indication of how it
genuine surprise are rare. philosophy is all in the name: Parcs is rolls. Those looking for a classic
Good restaurants – new or old – will “scrap” backwards. restaurant experience might prefer
have revelatory dishes cooked with If the sustainable stuff sounds another venue. Those after an
skill and finesse that remind us why a little too woke and worthy, I give you adventure, not always perfect but
we spend so much money dining out, Exhibit A: ice-cream flavoured with always interesting and often genuinely
but are still mostly variations on the a miso made from the scones left over surprising, will have an excellent time. ●
familiar. Surprise is an infinitely more from The Windsor’s high tea. The dairy
uncommon beast, a good reason to in the scones creates a subtle blue
immediately add Parcs to your cheese flavour in the fermenting
must-do list. process that is matched, brilliantly,
Parcs is owned by Windsor Hotel with an accompanying pear, poached
proprietor Adi Halim, the man behind in a cocoa nib flavoured syrup.
both Sunda and Aru where chef Khanh Chances are you’ve never tasted
Nguyen has been improving the lives of anything quite like it.
PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN.
Melbourne diners for the past few And there’s plenty more where
years. Parcs chef Dennis Yong cooked that came from. How about oysters
with Nguyen at Sunda but has been with a mignonette-adjacent sauce
given his own platform in a modest, made with mango kombucha vinegar
former mod-Italian diner in Little that’s been aged in beeswax? Or
Collins Street where he is putting his mussels teamed with a spicy, deep-
fascination (and talent) for fermentation flavoured paste of fermented pickles
TURBO CUISINE & FRY
ONE TWIST,
THOUSANDS OF
DELICIOUS & CRISPY
RECIPES
www.tefal.com.au
EVERYDAY
J U LY
From weeknight suppers to simple entertaining, these

everyday recipes keep things fresh, fast and simple.
Photography CHRIS COURT Styling STEVE PEARCE

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE
Recipes and food preparation JESSICA BROOK
Everyday
Mixed seed and spice crêpes with roasted pumpkin

SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 40 MINS (PLUS RESTING)
65 gm plain flour, sifted Whisk milk, egg and butter together. yolks runny (2 minutes). Remove then
1 tsp each nigella seeds, sesame Gradually add milk mixture to flour, add remaining oil and Aleppo pepper,
seeds, coriander and fennel seeds whisking until smooth; set aside to and cook until fragrant (30 seconds).
2 tbsp finely chopped chervil, lemon rest (30 minutes). 5 Place crêpes on plates and top with
thyme and parsley 2 Preheat oven to 220˚C fan-forced. pumpkin, sprouts, eggs and serve with
160 ml (⅔ cup) milk Place pumpkin, 1 tbsp oil, date syrup and Aleppo pepper oil.
5 eggs, 1 egg lightly beaten lemon juice in a lightly greased roasting Note Aleppo pepper, named after the
20 gm unsalted butter, melted, plus tray, season to taste and toss to city of Aleppo, Syria, is available from
extra for brushing combine. Roast, turning occasionally, select Middle Eastern grocers or online.
400 gm Kent pumpkin, peeled, seeded until caramelised (20 minutes). If unavailable, substitute equal measures
and coarsely chopped 3 Heat a crêpe pan (or non-stick frying of paprika powder and chilli flakes.
80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil pan) over medium heat, brush with a little
2 tbsp date syrup butter, add 80ml (1/3 cup) batter, swirl
1 tbsp lemon juice to cover pan, cook until just set
2 tsp Aleppo pepper (1-2 minutes), turn and cook until golden GLUTEN-FREE
100 gm mixed sunflower and kale (1-2 minutes). Transfer to a plate and To make these crêpes
sprouts, to serve keep warm; repeat with remaining batter. coeliac-friendly, simply
4 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large pan over replace flour with
1 For crêpes, place flour, seeds, half medium heat. Add remaining 4 eggs buckwheat flour.
Aleppo pepper and herbs in a bowl. and cook until whites are just set and
Spiced chicken Martabak with
sweet onion sambal
SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS COOLING)
1 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for 1 Heat oil in a large wok or frying pan (2 minutes). Add sambal, stir to combine,
shallow-frying over high heat. Add garlic and ginger and take off heat.
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped and cook until fragrant (30 seconds). 4 Fill a wok a third full with vegetable oil
1 tbsp finely grated ginger Add chicken mince, spices and fried and place over medium-high heat until
400 gm chicken thigh mince shallots; season to taste. Cook, breaking 180˚C. Carefully add curry leaves and
2 tsp ground coriander up meat with back of a wooden spoon. cook for 30 seconds, or until crisp; set
1 tsp cumin seeds Add cabbage and cook until wilted aside. Working in batches cook Martabak
10 gm (¼ cup) crisp fried shallots (1 minute). Set aside to cool. until golden and crisp (1-2 minutes). Drain
100 gm shredded Chinese cabbage 2 Working with one pastry at a time. on paper towel and repeat. Serve with
8 spring roll wrappers (20cm) Spoon ⅓ cup filling on one half, leaving sambal, lime halves and curry leaves.
1 egg, lightly beaten a 1cm border. Brush edge with egg and Note Spring roll wrappers are available
6 sprigs curry leaves fold over, to seal. Repeat with remaining at select supermarkets and Asian
Lime halves, to serve pastry, filling and egg. grocers. ➤
SWEET SHALLOT SAMBAL 3 Meanwhile, for sweet shallot sambal,
2 tbsp vegetable oil heat oil in a large frying pan over
2 small banana shallots, thinly sliced medium heat. Add shallot and cook,
1 tbsp kecap manis stirring until starting to caramelise (6-8
1 tbsp tamarind concentrate minutes). Add kecap manis and tamarind
50 gm (⅓ cup) sambal oelek and cook until fragrant and caramelised
Chilli squid-ink spaghetti
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 15 MINS
SWAP IT OUT
80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil 1 Heat half oil in a large heavy-based Replace the squid-ink spaghetti
2 garlic cloves, crushed frying pan over medium heat. Add garlic with your favourite long pasta.
270 gm sobrasada (or soft, fresh chorizo and sobrasada and cook, breaking up You can also swap squid for
removed from casing; see note) any lumps with a fork until fragrant prawns if you prefer.
125 ml (½ cup) red wine (3 minutes). Add wine, stock, and bring
180 ml (¾ cup) fish stock to a simmer (6 minutes). Add tomatoes
400 gm can crushed tomatoes and vino cotto, reduce heat to low and 4 For crumb, add fennel seeds,
2 tbsp vino cotto cook until reduced and slightly peppercorn and pine nuts to same
400 gm squid-ink spaghetti thickened (4 minutes). pan and cook, stirring occasionally
400 gm squid, cleaned and thinly sliced 2 Cook pasta in salted boiling water until golden (1 minute). Take off heat,
Baby amaranth leaves, to serve until al dente (6-8 minutes). Drain, add add chilli, oregano and parsley; season
CRUMB pasta to sauce, season to taste and to taste and toss to combine. Divide
1 tsp each fennel seeds and mixed toss to combine. pasta and serve scattered with crumbs
dried peppercorns, crushed 3 Meanwhile, heat remaining oil in and amaranth.
40 gm (1/4 cup) pine nuts, coarsely a large frying pan over high heat. Add Note Sobrasada, a spreadable salami,
chopped squid, season to taste and cook until just is available at delicatessens. Squid-ink
½ tsp dried chilli flakes golden (3-4 minutes). Remove with tongs spaghetti is available at select grocers.
½ tsp each dried oregano and parsley and set aside; return pan to heat.
Everyday
Southern-style pork with warm chow chow

SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS MARINATING, RESTING)
1 double pork cutlet (700gm), rind on, pan over high heat. Add pork, rind-side
at room temperature (see note) down and cook until golden and starting
60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil to crisp (3 minutes). Turn and cook on
2 brown onions, thinly sliced each side until golden (4 minutes).
2 dried chillies Remove from pan and set aside.
1 tsp cumin seeds 2 Add remaining oil to pan and reduce
2 tsp celery seeds heat to medium, add onion, chilli, spices
½ tsp ground turmeric and bay and cook until tender (4-5
¼ tsp each allspice and caraway seeds minutes). Add vinegar, sugar and
1 cinnamon quill cabbage; season and toss to coat.
2 bay leaves 3 Place pork on top of cabbage mixture,
125 ml (½ cup) apple cider vinegar transfer to oven and cook until cabbage PREPARE AHEAD
55 gm (¼ cup firmly packed) brown is just tender and pork is cooked through Traditionally served as
sugar (20-25 minutes). Set aside, loosely a pickle with meats, we
500 gm green cabbage, cut into wedges covered to rest. have kept this chow chow
60 gm unsalted butter, softened 4 Mix butter with chilli, garlic powder as a warm salad. Prepare
¼ tsp chilli powder, plus extra for and thyme; season to taste. Spoon butter ahead; keep leftovers
sprinkling over pork and serve. refrigerated for up to
¼ tsp garlic powder Note Double pork cutlets are a thicker three days.
2 tbsp lemon thyme, chopped cut with bone still attached; ask your
butcher to prepare. If unavailable,
1 Preheat oven to 180˚C. Score rind substitute two 350gm pork cutlets
of pork and rub with half the oil. Heat and reduce cooking time. ➤
a large heavy-based ovenproof frying
Everyday
Warm eggplant zaalouk with spiced lamb skewers

SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 35 MINS (PLUS MARINATING)
COOKING TIP
If using oven, preheat
1 large eggplant (350gm) grill and set rack on
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 Prick eggplant with a fork and cook second-highest rung.
4 garlic cloves, crushed over an open flame either on a rack on Halve eggplant
200 gm crushed tomatoes a gas stove or on a barbecue, turning lengthways, then place
1 tbsp tomato paste occasionally, until charred and soft cut-side down on
¼ tsp cayenne pepper (20-25 minutes). Halve lengthways and a foil-lined baking tray.
1 tbsp caster sugar scoop flesh into a colander, to drain. Grill until charred and
1 tsp each ground cumin and coriander 2 Meanwhile, heat oil in a large frying tender (20 minutes).
1 tbsp lemon juice pan over medium heat. Add garlic,
800 gm lamb neck, cut into 2 cm pieces tomatoes, tomato paste, cayenne, sugar,
GREEN HARISSA cumin and coriander and cook, stirring 4 Thread lamb onto six metal skewers;
½ cup (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley for 20 minutes, or until reduced. Add spoon over half harissa and marinade
1 clove garlic, chopped lemon juice and eggplant, and gently until ready to cook.
Finely grated rind and juice of toss until just combined. Set aside and 5 Heat a char-grill pan over high heat,
1 lemon keep warm. add lamb and cook, turning occasionally,
2 tsp coriander seeds, toasted 3 For green harissa, combine until charred and cooked through
1 long green chilli, chopped ingredients in a blender and blend (6-8 minutes). Spoon over remaining
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil until smooth. harissa and serve lamb with zaalouk.
Jerk-rubbed
barramundi with
dirty rice
(PLUS MARINATING, RESTING)
60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp ground allspice
2 tsp Cajun spice blend
1 tsp ground coriander
2 tsp dried thyme
Pinch of cayenne pepper
55 gm (¼ cup firmly packed) brown
sugar
2 large barramundi (800gm each),
scaled, cleaned and scored
2 sprigs bay leaves
1 lemon, sliced
300 gm okra, halved
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
1 white onion, finely chopped
320 gm (1½ cups) long grain white rice
1 red chilli, seeded and finely chopped
500 ml (2 cups) chicken stock
4 spring onions, thinly sliced
Lemon wedges, to serve
1 Preheat oven to 240˚C. For jerk rub,

combine half the oil, half allspice, half
Cajun spice blend, coriander, thyme,
cayenne pepper and sugar in a bowl and
season. Stuff cavity of barramundi with
lemon slices and one sprig bay and rub
marinade over fish; set aside to marinate
while you make rice.
2 Meanwhile, heat remaining oil in
a large heavy-based frying pan over high
heat. Add okra and cook, tossing until
just blistered (6 minutes); season to
taste. Remove from pan, set aside and
keep warm. Add celery and onion to pan,
and cook, stirring occasionally, until
softened (4 minutes). Add rice, chilli,
remaining allspice and Cajun spice
blend, remaining bay and stir to coat.
3 Add stock and bring to a simmer.
Reduce heat to low, and simmer, stirring
occasionally, until rice is tender
(15 minutes). Add spring onions with
okra, season to taste and stir to combine.
4 Meanwhile, roast barramundi, until FLAVOUR TIP
blistered and flesh is just cooked This rub works well with
through at the bone (15 minutes); rest any protein, especially
for 5 minutes before serving. Serve chicken and pork.
with rice and lemon wedges. ➤
Everyday
Honey cheesecake with

caramelised ginger pears
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 40 MINS (PLUS COOLING)
500 gm firm ricotta, drained 1 Preheat oven to 180˚C. Grease and Set aside at room temperature and
200 gm soft goat’s cheese line a 7cm deep, 10cm x 20cm loaf tin refrigerate until cold.
125 ml (½ cup) pouring cream with baking paper. Combine ricotta, 3 For caramelised ginger pears,
1 tsp vanilla extract goat’s cheese, half the cream and place honey, ginger wine and ginger
2 eggs, at room temperature vanilla in the bowl of an electric in a non-stick frying pan over medium
95 gm (¼ cup) honey mixer and beat on high until smooth heat and bring to a simmer. Add pepper
2 tbsp self-raising flour, sifted (2 minutes). Add eggs one at a time, and pears cut-side down and cook, until
CARAMELISED GINGER PEARS beating well after each addition. Add caramelised and tender (4 minutes).
190 gm (½ cup) honey honey and mix to combine. Mix flour Carefully turn and cook until tender
80 ml (⅓ cup) ginger wine and remaining cream together and fold (2 minutes).
½ tsp coarsely cracked black pepper to combine. 4 Slice cheesecake into bars and
4 small firm corella pears, peeled 2 Pour into prepared tin and smooth top with pears and honey syrup.
and halved top; bake until golden with a gentle
1 tsp grated ginger wobble on surface (35-40 minutes).
We use meat from Devitt Wholesale Meats in the GT Test Kitchen and in all our photo shoots.
Harissa
This African chilli paste is a sure-fire hit
as a marinade for lamb, a spicy rub for
barbecued fish or to pep up stews or soups.
Masterclass
H
arissa is a traditional staple of North African cuisine, Green harissa, made from green chillies and
and like many other cultures, recipes and ingredients coriander, is ideal for barbecued meats,
vary between regions and households. This harissa especially chicken. Rose harissa, made from
is hot, but not as fiery as many because we use long tomatoes, red chillies and smoked paprika, as
red chillies; to decrease the heat even more, seed some or all of well as dried rose petals and rosewater, works
the chillies as this is where most of the heat is found. We have well with seafood. The fragrant rose balances
marinated a lamb leg and roasted it in this recipe but it goes the heat of the chillies.
equally well with chicken, seafood and vegetables.
1 3
PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING OLIVIA BLACKMORE. KIP & CO CUTLERY. ALL OTHER PROPS STYLIST’S OWN.
Step by step
1 Preheat a lightly greased char-grill
pan or barbecue to high. Take 2 red
capsicums and quarter; discard seeds
2 Cover with plastic wrap or baking
paper; stand for 10 minutes. Peel
away skin and set aside. Meanwhile,
3 Place capsicums and chillies in
a large deep mortar and pestle with
spices, 10 finely chopped garlic cloves,
and membranes. Take 15 large, long place 2 tbsp cumin seeds and 1 tbsp 6 fresh coriander roots, and 1 tsp sea salt
red chillies (about 300gm), and halve coriander seeds in a small frying pan flakes and pound to a paste. Gradually
lengthways, discarding stalks. Cook over medium heat, cook, stirring add 2 tbsp olive oil until combined;
capsicums and chillies, skin-side down, continuously, until fragrant (1-2 minutes). season to taste. Makes 1½-2 cups. ●
until skin blisters and blackens Transfer to a small mortar and pestle
(10 minutes for chillies and 20 and finely grind.
minutes for capsicums).
HARISSA ROAST LAMB

Preheat oven to 180°C. Place a 2kg bone-in, Frenched lamb leg in a large bowl and coat with half of the
harissa. Drizzle with olive oil and season to taste. Place lamb on a greased wire rack in a roasting pan,
and roast, until browned and cooked to medium-rare (1¾-2 hours). Set aside to rest for 15 minutes.
Transfer to a serving platter and scatter with coriander leaves. Serve with roasted mixed baby heirloom
carrots, herbed couscous and remaining harissa and charred lemon halves on the side. If you have time,
marinate the lamb overnight for a deeper flavour, otherwise a couple of hours will do the trick.
SPICE
These iconic spice blends span history, geography
and a world of flavours, writes LARISSA DUBECKI.
of life
Photography ALANA LANDSBERRY Styling HOLLY DORAN
T
hey’ve caused wars, forged global trading Time-honoured and deeply loved, they can be
routes and established empires. Spices an assertion of national pride (witness Jamaica’s
and their aromatic alchemy derived from vocal disdain over Jamie Oliver’s “punchy jerk
dried seeds, bark and other plant parts rice”) and a delicious vehicle for cultural
have changed the world while banishing the bland. understanding (some say one-quarter of the
No self-respecting home cook is without their world’s population eat harissa on a daily basis).
own collection of essential spices, but to truly spice Even essential spice blends vary between
up your life it’s worth getting to know the world’s countries and regions. One region’s caraway
most iconic blends. seed is another’s aniseed, and remember: most
These essential spice mixes from around are easily customisable, so don’t be afraid to
the globe transcend the sum of their parts. tweak any spice recipe to your own preferences.
ZA’ATAR
A herby spice mix (or a spicy herb mix), this Levantine
staple has a history dating back to biblical times. Often
sprinkled on top of flatbreads, its pungent mix of dried
thyme and oregano with the crucial ingredient of sumac
(a tangy roasted berry), salt and toasted sesame seeds is RAS EL HANOUT
also said to be chock-full of healthy antioxidants. Add it to Earthy and intoxicating, the North African spice
everything from scrambled eggs to meatballs. blend translates loosely as “top shelf.” Essential
to Moroccan dishes – including the delicately
flavoured pigeon or chicken pie b’stilla – it
usually consists of more than a dozen spices
including cardamom, cumin, clove, cinnamon,
nutmeg, mace, allspice, chilli, coriander seed,
peppercorn, paprika, fenugreek, and turmeric.
VADOUVAN
A product of colonisation, this curry blend is
testament to the French occupation of the
south-east Indian region of Pondicherry (now
Puducherry) in the late 1700s. Milder than a
native Indian curry blend, it adds aromatics
such as shallots and garlic to cumin, cardamom,
mustard seeds, turmeric, cloves and nutmeg.
Its sweeter and milder flavour is increasingly
popular in leading European restaurant tables. FIVE SPICE
Embodying the philosophy of yin and
yang, the best-known Chinese spice
mix balances the warm notes of
cinnamon, star anise and fennel with
the cooling properties of cloves and
Sichuan peppercorns. Warm and
slightly sweet, it’s essential to Peking
duck and is great as a dry rub to give
a tangy-sweet flavour to high-fat
proteins such as pork belly. ➤
BERBERE
Expand your spice horizons with this
sweet, citrusy and chilli-hot blend hailing
BAHARAT from Ethiopia. Adding the lesser-known
Also known as seven spice, the Indigenous spices korarima, ajwain and
quintessential Arabic spice blend is long pepper to a mix of red chilli,
a culinary workhorse, with its beguiling fenugreek, ginger, coriander, cardamom,
blend of sweet and smoky flavours used allspice, cumin, peppercorns, cloves and
in everything from soup to grilled meats. cinnamon, it’s a versatile ingredient in
Believed to have originated in Syria and stews, braises and meat rubs.
a fixture on ancient trading roots (the
name is Arabic for “spice”), its core
ingredients are black pepper, coriander,
paprika, cardamom, nutmeg, cumin,
cloves and cinnamon.
MADRAS CURRY MASALA

Fruity, earthy and spicy-hot, this southern
Indian curry blend hailing from the city of
Madras (now Chennai) sees often
enthusiastic levels of chilli in a mix with
coriander, turmeric, cumin, garlic, ginger,
pepper, cinnamon and fenugreek.
Embraced by the English in the mid-1800s
as the “typical” Indian curry blend, its heat
is frequently countered by the cooling
effects of yoghurt-based raita.
HARISSA
A chilli-hot spice paste native to
Tunisia that spread around the
world with the Spanish
conquistadors, the pungent mix
of hot peppers, garlic, salt –
perhaps with coriander and
caraway seeds and cumin – is
sprinkled into stews and soups
as a flavour base. It also
becomes a condiment when
mixed with water and olive oil.
GARAM MASALA
Toasty, fragrant and endlessly
comforting, this blend owes its origins
to the bitter winters of Northern India
(if you need more of a hint, its name
translates as “warm spice”). A staple in
curries and British Indian cooking, its
core ingredients include black and
white pepper, cloves, cinnamon, mace,
cardamom, bay leaves and the
all-important cumin.
GUNPOWDER BLEND
Breakfast in southern India is almost
DUKKAH
unthinkable without milagai podi. Spicy
Hailing from ancient Egypt,
and powerful, the mix also known as
this mix of herbs, nuts and
gunpowder blend is commonly used to
spices derives its name from
season dosa or idli, the steamed lentil and
the Arabic “to crush”. Typically
rice cake. A roasted mixture of dhal,
HARISSA, GARAM MASALA & MADRAS CURRY POWDER SUPPLIED BY THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENT.
pounded in a mortar and

asafoetida, salt and dried chilli, it’s often
pestle, the coarse texture of
sprinkled on cooked dishes, or mixed with
the mix of toasted sesame
oil or ghee into a vibrant condiment.
and coriander seeds and nuts
(almonds, macadamia or
hazelnuts) along with cumin
seeds, salt and black pepper
is a great companion to
oil-dipped bread.
JERK SEASONING
The lively spice mix behind the iconic
Jamaican dish of jerk chicken was
devised by escaped slaves in the
1700s, who used spices growing in the
wild to tenderise tough cuts of meat.
These days, the punchy mix of Scotch
bonnet chillies, allspice and thyme
along with other ingredients including
cinnamon, onion powder and nutmeg is
used as a dry rub or wet marinade.
B A L A NC
IN
GA
ILLUSTRATION GETTY IMAGES & ADOBE STOCK.
Umami’s spicy sidekick, yakumi might not be on the tips

of our tongues yet but it plays a significant role in the
Japanese kitchen, writes ANNE HASEGAWA.
I
t may be one of the most overused adjectives
in food writing and conversation today:
umami. Fun to say and delicious to savour.
But its lesser known cousin yakumi has yet to o
enter the Australian lexicon, despite playing an
equally important role in Japanese cuisine. If
umami is the Top Gun of Japan’s national kitchen n,
yakumi is its Goose.
Granted, Japan might not be the first place thaat
comes to mind when you think of spice. Unlike itss
neighbouring countries across the East, who lead
with fiery hits of chilli and piquant flavour bombs
that burst in your mouth, Japanese food is famed for f
its subtlety and restraint. But behind those compleex,
delicate flavours, you will fin
nd
“While umami is the yakumi bringing balance andd
playing yin to umami’s yang. “The main purpose of yakumi is to add extra
depth of flavour in Hitoshi Miyazawa, head flavour or adjust overpowered ones. While umami
each ingredient and chef at Melbourne’s is the depth of flavour in each ingredient and
shapes the main taste acclaimed 16-seat kaiseki shapes the main taste of the dish, yakumi supports
restaurant, Ishizuka, says that it,” explains Miyazawa.
of the dish, yakumi yakumi is one of the most And while you may not know the word, you
supports it.” important ingredients in have almost certainly sampled all kinds of yakumi
Japanese cuisine. when eating your favourite Japanese dishes.
“It is not a superstar ingredient, but it elevates Wasabi, yuzu, ginger, shiso, grated daikon, and
dishes. Yakumi is shown through vegetables and umeboshi, are all yakumi. That colourful seven-
spices that are fragrant and have spicy tastes.” spice mix you sprinkle on top of your noodles? You
But just what exactly is yakumi? guessed it – shichimi togarashi is also yakumi.
Put simply, yakumi refers to any kind of natural In kanji, the word yakumi translates directly to
condimement – be it a spice, herb, vegetable or “medicine” (yaku) and “flavour” (mi). Some say that
seasoning – thahat adds depth of flavour to enhance yakumi may have been used for hygiene and
and balance a dish. kumi elevates and ties a dish sanitation purposes due to its antiseptic properties.
together, bringing a complex lexity that sparks our For example, ginger removes the smell of fish and
tastebuds’ curiosity and leaves uss w wanting more. meat; shiso prevents food poisoning from sashimi;
and daikon has antibacterial properties when grated.
“The reason why we use wasabi for raw food is
because it has the influence to remove the fishy
fla
flavour,” explains Miyazawa.
“But more importantly, it allows you to enjoy
the spicy aroma of wasabi and the delicious flavour
of fish together. Ultimately, yakumi is there to
support the main flavour of the dish through its
aromatic properties.”
Although the use of spices to preserve, sterilise
and deodorise food has been common practice
globally for centuries, the evolution from past to
present day use of yakumi suggests this was never
really the focal point for these ingredients. ➤
but yakumi is something we can easily build into
our kitchen repertoire.
Miyazawa’s top recommendation for home
cooks is yuzu kosho, a yuzu citrus peel paste mixed
with green or red chilli – a condiment that has
been quietly making its way onto Australia’s
culinary scene.
“I’ve seen a lot of Australians eating dishes with
this spice. Of course, we like it too! And it’s very
simple to use. Just put a small amount of yuzu
kosho on sushi (especially white fish), grilled fish
or chicken. It will [instantly] elevate the flavour.
“At Ishizuka, we’re using sansho pepper for
charcoal-grilled fish on our
current menu. Sansho “Yakumi has a breadth
is also a nice yakumi as
While its etymology suggests otherwise, it appears a hidden flavour,” he adds. of ingredients...
that first and foremost, they were used with aroma, But at home, it’s the Anything used to
flavour and balance in mind, to enhance the iconic seven-spice, support the dish to
sensory experience and harmonise the dish. shichimi, that remains his
“Yakumi has a wide breadth of ingredients. It favourite. “I use [it] a lot
elevate its experience
doesn’t have a defined set of rules of what you can in my home. It’s a classic can be called yakumi.”
and can’t use. Anything used to support the main spice for udon noodles.”
dish to elevate its experience can be called yakumi.” While kaiseki remains an art form that’s best
If you’ve ever had the privilege of eating kaiseki left for experts like Miyazawa, incorporating yakumi
– a multi-course dinner that celebrates seasonal into your everyday cooking is easily achieved and
ingredients by balancing taste, texture, aesthetic and will amplify your dishes, spark sensory joy, and
colours – you will have noticed the way different maybe even teach you a thing or two about balance
spices and herbs complement each dish. So much and restraint in the kitchen. After all, you can
so, the dish simply wouldn’t be the same without it. always add more, but you can’t take it away. ●
That’s because yakumi is more than a garnish
or conduit for flavour. It is the producer in the
background, helping everything come together.
The one that keeps the main ingredient in check
so it can shine through and make the most of
what it has to offer. Yakumi is the supporting
ingredient that unites each dish to make
something great, spectacular.
This philosophy is what makes Japan’s
relationship with spice such an anomaly
when compared to the rest of the world.
“It’s hard to combine Japanese dishes with
spices like coriander, cumin and star anise. These
spices have a distinct flavour and can take over the
main dish. In Japanese cuisine, we want the spice
to be a quiet supporter of dishes.”
The art of cooking Japanese food may feel
intimidating even for the most confident of cooks,
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Photography CHRIS COURT
OYSTERS SUPPLIED BY NOTARAS FISH MARKETS.
Styling VIVIEN WALSH

A touch of
MAGIC
Because spice begets spiciness, ANNA MCCOOE looks at the
traditional aphrodisiacs, which are still seducing diners today.
C
leopatra bathed in saffron-infused Like us, Tibballs isn’t here to dish out
milk to send her lovers mad with medical advice or push a wellness agenda, she
desire and Casanova downed 50 just really loves chocolate in all its sensual
oysters for breakfast each day for glory. Her favourite dessert for sparking
sexual prowess. Kirsten Tibballs – possibly the romance is a decadent chocolate lava cake –
most seductive of the lot – prefers the loin- “a warm, baked chocolate pudding with
stirring qualities of chocolate. The pastry chef a gooey chocolate centre that slowly flows out
and chocolatier from the Savour Chocolate & once you break into the dessert.” Technically,
Patisserie School is one of many Australian it is more saucy than spicy but it’s still utterly
chefs dabbling in alleged aphrodisiacs. irresistible. “Even something as simple as
You don’t have to go the full 9 ½ Weeks to melted chocolate drizzled over ice-cream,
know food and sex go together like Kim enjoyed while cuddling on the couch, can set
Basinger and a 1986 Mickey Rourke (don’t let a romantic mood.”
us keep you from your erotic foodie fantasies). Through history, there have been
Take, for example, chocolate, which Tibballs aphrodisiacs, which are mostly symbolic like
believes to have undeniable chemistry. figs, asparagus, and cucumber and those that
“From a technical point, endorphins, spark lust because they are rare and precious,
dopamine, serotonin, and oxytocin are four such as truffle and saffron. Seafood earned its
neurotransmitters that, when released from the seductive reputation early thanks to the Greek
brain, are responsible for our happiness. They goddess of love, Aphrodite (or Venus in the
are also released when we eat chocolate, which Roman world), who emerged from the sea on
can replicate the feeling of being in love,” she a scallop shell. According to aphrodisiac foods
says. “The melt-in-your-mouth texture followed authority Amy Reiley, who has her Master’s
by that pop of flavour also contribute.” degree in Gastronomy from Le Cordon Bleu ➤
and the University of Adelaide, the
topic of what makes an aphrodisiac is
a complex one. “I like to recommend
foods that have both a folkloric history
and some sort of scientific evidence to
support their use as an aphrodisiac,”
says the Fork me, Spoon Me author.
Oysters fit into the symbolic
category, but they are also scientifically Peruvian food an aphrodisiac bomb.”
sexy thanks to the high quantities of Also, on the menu at Pastuso is
zinc, which improves testosterone levels. maca root, which is whipped into an
Caviar is another extravagance, which emulsion and paired with an alpaca
pairs fertility imagery with a big zinc tartare. The Incas used it to increase
hit. And we all know nothing sets the their sexual appetite and fertility and,
mood quite like a mobile caviar service, today there is science-backed evidence
delivering bumps directly to the snuff to show they were onto something.
of hands. Add a little eye contact into Warming spices such as ginger,
the mix and there’s a reason the cinnamon, pepper and cardamom
Russians used caviar as a weapon of come into play too. Just ask O Tama
“sexpionage” in the Cold War. Carey of Lankan Filling Station, who
Then there are aphrodisiacs that does a Sri Lankan love cake packed
stimulate, which is where things get with cardamom, cinnamon, white
truly spicy. Peruvian chef Samuel Rivas pepper, salt and urban mythology.
from Pastuso in Melbourne is a master “The cake was influenced by the
of the invigorating cuisine. “Peruvian Portuguese when they came and then it
food is super aphrodisiac,” he says. At was Sri Lankanified,” she says. The
the root of this claim is the Peruvian aji delectable dessert either got its name
amarillo chilli, a bright and fruity chilli for being the cake a young woman
with high levels of circulation-boosting baked to win the love of a suitor or
capsaicin, reputed to heat things up. as a hand-mixed labour of love. “It’s
The yellow chilli’s powers are most a very physical cake to make,” Carey
potent when added to citrus, fish explains. Either way, the story has
offcuts, scallops, and other Peruvian a happy ending; fluffy egg whites over
chillies to create a marinade for ceviche a golden outer crust and a dense, gooey
called aji amarillo leche de tigre (Tiger’s middle. Plus, a pretty smell of rose,
Milk), a legendary aphrodisiac (and which Carey says is “very aphrodisiac”.
hangover cure). As Rivas says, “This With such an effect, Carey is lucky the
type of chilli combined with other love cake is the last course not the first.
ingredients, like seafood, makes the She laughs, “This is true. We need
them to stay to the end.”
Rare and expensive, the aphrodisiac
qualities of saffron are legendary. The ancient
Greeks brewed it in love potions while, in
quantity, it is thought to be a mind-altering
hallucinogen, hence Cleopatra and her sexy
saffron baths. As British ayurvedic chef Anjum
Anand tells it, newly married couples from
wealthy families in old India were given a glass
of saffron milk every night for the first week of
their marriage.
But is it simply the desire for luxury that
needs quenching or is it more carnal? Anand
can’t confirm or deny an aphrodisiac effect but
says saffron offers numerous qualities that
contribute to a libido boost. “Saffron is
harmonising and, in the right quantities, good
for our general immunity. It is good for the
digestive system and for circulation as well,” she
says. “It has also been considered good for one’s
mood and has even been clinically proven to
reduce depression. It is also said to improve
PMT and menstrual issues for women and
improve men’s fertility and, shall we say, vigour.”
Separately, she believes a few strands of
saffron in her morning tea will aid in a youthful
glow, though she also loves it in a kulfi or
biryani. “If you can feel well physically and
mentally, be in a good mood and glow, you are
going to feel good about yourself and then you
are at your most attractive.”
But what to wash it all down with? Isn’t
a moderate amount of alcohol the most
evocative aphrodisiac of all? Champagne is
a reliable libido-enhancing libation, going to
the head and then the hip-adjacent region with
its inhibition-loosening effervescence. At
Loulou Bistro in Sydney, chef Billy Hannigan
loves Champagne with oysters, strawberries, and
John Dory farçi, an elegant dish of poached
Dory and scallop, dressed in a rich velouté of
caviar and Champagne. Hannigan also calls it
“the flirtiest dish on the menu at Loulou.”
By power of science or just suggestion,
Champagne, chocolate, oysters, caviar and all
their spicy contemporaries certainly put
romance on the table. Even if they don’t make
your dinner date any more attractive, one way
or another, you will be seduced. ●
HOT
HISTORY
Across continents and cuisines, there are
few places untouched by chilli’s lovely heat.
NADIA BAILEY delves into its origins.
Photography ALANA LANDSBERRY

Styling HOLLY DORAN
S
errano. Guajillo. Manzano. For every from there, they passed to other Mesoamerican
palate, a chilli: from the mild crunch of and Native American cultures, then to those in the
a banana pepper to the peppery kick of Caribbean. Of about 25 species of the genus
the cayenne, from the sweetness of Capsicum that existed, five became domesticated
friggitelli to the prickling heat of the birdseye. across different areas: annuum in Mexico,
Across almost every country and culture, chilli chinense in Amazonia, frutescens in southern
proliferates – by some estimates, there are more Central America, baccatum in Bolivia, Ecuador,
than 50,000 Capsicum cultivars grown worldwide. Peru and Chile, and pubescens in the Andes. In
It inspires devotion, obsession and for some, gardens, on trade routes, in ritual practices and
a never-ending quest for an ever-hotter fix. But folklore, the chilli flourished.
where did it all begin? The cultivation of chilli in the rest of the world
In what’s now known as Bolivia and Mexico, has, by comparison, a fairly short history – barely
the Indigenous people first foraged chillies where more than 500 years. The plant was unknown
they grew in the wild. As early as 4000 BC, they outside of the Americas until Christopher
were cultivated for culinary use. Aztec plant Columbus brought them to Iberia in the early
growers developed dozens of annuum species; 1500s – when chillies (along with tomatoes,
potatoes, cocoa and more) first reached foreign
palates. Following Columbus, Portuguese traders
carried chillies to settlements and colonies in West
Africa, in India and across East Asia.
At the same time, the Spanish forged a path in
the opposite direction, spreading the seeds through
southern China and Manila by way of the Pacific.
Once established there, local trade routes took
chilli to Indonesia, Tibet and Bhutan, where it was
adopted as a vegetable rather than a seasoning and
used liberally in every meal (ema datshi, a stew Aleppo pepper brought a new depth of warmth
made from chilli pods and soft yak cheese, is and spice; and in the Maghreb, the baklouti was
considered Bhutan’s national dish). pulverised into a paste to make harissa, forever
The Turks acquired chillies via conquests of changing the region’s cuisine.
Portuguese trade posts, and spread them to the Chilli probably made its way to Australia with
Ottoman Empire, then the British, who had warmed up to the
Moravia and Hungary. There, Few other foods spice during the Empire’s colonial rule
the locals bred them to reduce have been taken up of India; or perhaps it came with
their pungency – dried and Chinese migrants in the early 1800s.
powdered, the mild by so many people in The 1864 publication The English and
Hungarian wax peppers so many places with Australian Cookery Book – considered
became paprika. In Thailand, such enthusiasm. the first attempt to codify a specific
tiny, bullet-shaped birdseye Australian cuisine – calls for both
chillies set fire to local palates; cayenne and birdseye chillies in its
in Syria and Turkey, the recipes, while an earlier colonial
cookbook, The Housewife’s Guide (1843), suggests
cayenne to spice up such delicacies as beef à la
mode, harrico of mutton and fricassée of rabbit.
Few other foods have been taken up by so
many people in so many places with such
enthusiasm – which is particularly extraordinary ➤
given the chilli’s unique ability to cause bodily
pain. The heat in chillies comes from their
capsaicinoids, a series of related compounds
concentrated in its internal ribs and seeds. These
capsaicinoids turn on the pain receptors in the
mouth and tongue, delivering a burning sensation
that ranges from pleasantly warming to an unholy
assault. A particularly hot variety can induce
“Eating chilli is something
streaming eyes, heart palpitations, hot flushes, that becomes part of
furious sweats. One researcher, trying to pinpoint your DNA. For me, my life
exactly why people actively seek out something that
will be rather boring if
causes such suffering, coined the term “benign
masochism”. I don’t have it.”
This theory rings true to chef Tony Tan, whose
childhood in Malaysia meant early exposure to the
experience. He recalls an early encounter with a
chilli-stuffed rice ball: “It was so hot – like, the pain This amorous tendency accounts for the
and the ecstasy, you know? You become a bit creation of ever-hotter pods, which has seen
addicted to it because it releases endorphins.” growers ratchet up the Scoville Heat Units (SHU)
Tan has some authority to speak on the subject. – the scale that measures a chilli’s bite – to
Such is his affinity with the plant that his increasingly alarming levels. No sooner than the
nickname as a child was “Little Chilli” and he was bhut jolokia (the first chilli to register at more
once painted for the Archibald Prize holding a pod than a million SHU) was crowned the winner, the
aloft. These days, at his home and cooking school Infinity (1.1 million SHU) came along, followed by
in Trentham, Victoria, he grows at least four the Naga Viper (1.3 million SHU), Trinidad
varieties in his greenhouse: Scotch bonnets, Scorpion Butch T (1.4 million SHU), and the
cayenne, Hungarian blacks and Thai birdseye Carolina Reaper, which currently dominates the
chillies. He’s watching them closely to see if they’ll field at an apocalyptic 1.6 million SHU and is
cross-pollinate and produce new strains. “Chilli probably available in your local supermarket.
plants can be a little bit amorous,” he explains. And if you’ve bitten off more than you can
handle? “The best antidote to kill that hotness is
to take a lump of sugar and put it in your mouth,”
says Tan. “It immediately tones the heat down.”
For those not yet at the Reaper stage of the chilli
journey, he suggests starting small. “If you are
nervous about eating fresh chillies, then look at
buying pickled chillies, sweet chilli sauce or
chilli oil. After that, you can become a bit
more experimental.”
Like many who have fallen for its unique
charms, Tan considers the plant to be something
of an obsession. “Eating chilli is something that
becomes part of your DNA,” he muses. “For me,
my life will be rather boring if I don't have it.” ●
GLOSSARY
Aleppo A warm, smoky chilli pepper with a mild heat Jalapeño A long, tapering thick-fleshed green chilli
that builds slowly on the palate, commonly used with a pronounced flavour and middling heat.
across the Mediterranean and the Middle East. Kashmiri A bright red, mild chilli commonly found in
Ancho Dried, ripe poblano peppers. Generally low in Indian and Sri Lankan cuisine. Generally used dried
heat, with a distinctive sweet, fruity flavour. and powdered.
Árbol A long, curved chilli with a bright, fiery heat and Paprika A vibrant red chilli powder made from dried
slightly grassy flavour. red pods, ranging in flavour from mild to hot to
Baklouti A large, pungent chilli with a mellow tinge of smoked. Popular in Spanish and Hungarian cuisine.
heat, found in Northwest Africa. Used as the primary Poblano A small green chilli that ranges in heat from
ingredient in harissa. mild to kicking, commonly used in Spanish cuisine.
Bhut jolokia Popular in India, this chilli is notorious for Scotch bonnet Similar in heat to the habanero, but
its intense flavour and blistering heat. Also known as with a somewhat sweeter and smokier flavour.
the ghost pepper. Scoville scale A system of measuring the pungency
Birdseye Tiny, fiery chillies commonly used in Thai of chillies based on the concentration of capsaicinoids,
cuisine. Sometimes called bird peppers or chilli padi. typically with capsaicin content as the primary
Capsaicinoids A series of related compounds measure. Recorded in Scoville Heat Units (SHU).
concentrated in the internal ribs and seeds of a chilli Serrano A small, hot variety popular throughout
that registers in our mouths as both heat and pain. Mexico and Southeast Asia. Sharp, crisp and with
Cayenne Most commonly used in its dried, powdered considerable bite.
form, cayenne has a hot, aromatic, peppery flavour. Shishito A mild chilli commonly used in Japan, with
Chipotle Dried, smoked, ripe jalapeño peppers with a fresh, peppery flavour. Generally used when
a moderately spicy, smoky and complex flavour. still green.
Gochugaru Dried, smoky-sweet chilli powder used Tabasco A small pungent chilli, with a fiery, smoky
in Korean cuisine. taste, most famous for its use in Tabasco sauce.
Habanero One of the more commonly available Urfa biber A dark red-purple chilli from Turkey, with
varieties, with a fruity taste and lingering, white-hot burn. a smoky, fruity, slightly sour flavour and modest heat.
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FOOD
J U LY
Turn up the heat

Chefs Helly Raichura and Paul
Farag share their spice secrets,
follow the Nutmeg Trail, and
journey out of Africa.
Enter Via Laundry
p 92
PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN. STYLING LEE BLAYLOCK.
Scents of
P L AC E
Chef PAUL FARAG takes us on an exciting
culinary journey to the Middle East with
some of his favourite dishes from Aalia.
Words JORDAN KRETCHMER

Grilled prawns,
corn, saffron pine
nut milk
p 87
Photography BEN DEARNLEY Styling STEVE PEARCE
Food preparation TAMIKA O’NEILL
Paul Farag
I
t’s been two years since Paul Farag and his team
first discovered the Aalia site, located below
Harry Seidler’s MLC Centre, now refreshed
as 25 Martin Place. Incorporating the skills
learnt at Monopole and Fish Butchery, Farag has
set out to rethink the idea of Middle Eastern cuisine.
“I wanted to create a venue that championed and
pioneered a respect for a culture and cuisine that’s
been around for such a long time,” says Farag.
It was his head chef posting at Surry Hills’
Nour that was a springboard for Farag to explore
his Egyptian roots, before delving deeper at Aalia.
The menu is made up of elegant dishes with
a sharp focus on seafood. “When people think of
the Middle East, they think of dry, desert land. Not
many think of the water,” says Farag. Rather than
hero one location, Farag’s cooking traverses the
sprawling region. “Dishes from the East – Persian,
Iraqi or Saudi – are heavily spiced. But towards the
Mediterranean like Tunisia, there’s more seafood.”
Heady spices are a common thread of the menu.
“Something I’ve started teaching my kitchen is that
spices aren’t always the same. You could get three
batches of Aleppo pepper and they will be different,”
he says. It’s here all the senses – like spices – can
transform a meal. “When you’re cooking with spices,
that is where your senses come in; smelling, tasting,”
he says. “Cooking is a feeling – it’s not robotic.”
25 Martin Place, Sydney, NSW, aaliarestaurant.com
Chermoula lamb ribs fatteh
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 3 HRS 20 MINS
“This is one of my favourite cuts of lamb – delicious and full of flavour,” says chef
Paul Farag. “The idea behind this meal is to create your own way, having every
element separate. It becomes an interactive-style meal with family or friends.”
2 lamb spare rib racks (800gm each), 1 For chermoula, place ingredients
cap on in a bowl, season to taste and stir well
½ cup each (loosely packed) mint, to combine.
flat-leaf parsley and coriander leaves 2 Preheat oven to 140˚C. Place lamb ribs
Char-grilled flatbread, to serve in a large roasting pan and season to
CHERMOULA taste. Spoon over half chermoula and
150 ml extra-virgin olive oil rub all over lamb; roast until ribs are very
2 garlic cloves, finely grated tender (3 hours).
2½ tbsp lemon juice 3 Meanwhile, for tahini sauce, whisk
1 small red onion, finely chopped ingredients together in a bowl, then
1 cup each (firmly packed) flat-leaf season to taste. Place over
parsley and coriander leaves, a double boiler before serving until
finely chopped tahini sauce has warmed through
1 tsp each cumin and coriander (3 minutes). Do not allow mixture to
seeds, toasted get too hot or it will split.
1 tsp ras el hanout (see recipe p87) 4 For burnt nut butter, heat a saucepan
1⁄4 tsp each ground turmeric, paprika over high heat. Add butter and swirl in
and chili powder TAHINI SAUCE pan until it begins to foam (5 minutes).
280 gm plain yoghurt Remove from heat, add nuts, and stir to
40 gm toum (see recipe p88) combine. Season to taste and keep
40 gm hulled tahini warm until ready to serve.
2 garlic cloves, finely grated 5 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue or
3 tsp lemon juice char-grill pan to high. When lamb is
BURNT NUT BUTTER ready, barbecue lamb, turning
100 gm slightly salted butter gently until browned all over (5
50 gm pine nuts minutes). Cut ribs in pairs,
50 gm slivered almonds transfer to a platter and drizzle
with remaining chermoula and
burnt nut butter. Serve with
herb salad, tahini sauce and
charred flatbread on the side. ➤
Grilled prawns, corn,
saffron pine nut milk
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 25 MINS Aalia’s sinuous
(PLUS STANDING, COOLING) curves evoke
the design of the
“This dish is a great solo dish or can be MLC Centre
adjusted using smaller prawns and
multiplying the recipe to accommodate
a large group for meze or a shared dish,” Dandelion cacik and ras el hanout crudités
says Farag. Pictured p83
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 15 MINS (PLUS DRAINING, COOLING)
3 corn cobs, husks and silks removed “This is a great accompaniment to any spread,” says Farag. “It’s a Turkish version of
1 cup (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley tzatziki where we incorporate bitter greens, which work well with the sweetness of
leaves, coarsely chopped the lemon and yoghurt. If dandelion or bitter greens aren’t your thing, you can happily
Juice of 1 lemon substitute Swiss chard or English spinach.”
1 red onion, finely chopped
12 extra-large king prawns (about 500 gm plain yoghurt 3 Meanwhile, for cacik, bring a large
700gm), peeled, deveined, heads 2 bunches dandelion greens or chicory, saucepan three-quarters full with water
and tails intact stems discarded, leaves torn into to the boil. Blanch dandelion greens
1 finger lime, pearls removed large pieces three times, for 30 seconds each time,
SAFFRON PINE NUT MILK 1 Lebanese cucumber, coarsely grated then refresh in iced water. Drain and
1 tsp (loosely packed) saffron 1 garlic clove, finely grated squeeze out as much water as possible;
280 gm pine nuts Juice of 1 lemon finely chop leaves. Transfer to a bowl
1 tsp sea salt flakes 1 small taro (370gm; see note), peeled, with labne, cucumber, garlic and lemon
shaved 2mm thick on a mandolin juice; season to taste and stir to
1 For saffron pine nut milk, stir 350ml Vegetable oil, for deep-frying combine.
water and saffron together in a bowl; 4 each mixed baby heirloom radishes, 4 For taro chips, preheat vegetable oil in
stand for 30 minutes. Transfer to turnips and carrots, trimmed, a large deep saucepan or deep-fryer to
a high-speed blender with pine nuts and halved lengthways 190˚C. Deep-fry taro in batches, turning
salt; blend until pine nut milk gets hot (10 2 tbsp coarsely chopped oregano, plus occasionally, until golden and crisp (2-3
minutes). The idea is to blend the mixture extra leaves to serve minutes; be careful, hot oil will spit).
until it gets hot, and the natural oils are Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling Drain on paper towel and season
released and emulsify. RAS EL HANOUT with salt and a little ras el hanout.
2 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue or 1 tbsp each cumin seeds and sweet 5 For crudités, place vegetables in
char-grill pan to high. Char-grill corn, paprika a large bowl, drizzle generously with
turning frequently, until blackened and 3 tsp coriander seeds olive oil, season with salt and scatter
cooked (10-15 minutes). Cool slightly, 2½ tsp black peppercorns with a little ras el hanout and oregano.
then cut kernels off cob and place in 2 tsp fennel seeds Transfer to a serving bowl and serve with
a large bowl with parsley, lemon juice 1 tsp ground nutmeg cacik, taro chips and scattered with extra
and onion; season to taste and toss ½ tsp each cayenne pepper, ground ras el hanout.
to combine. cardamom and ground cinnamon Note Ras el hanout, a fragrant Moroccan
3 Thread prawns onto metal skewers spice blend, will keep in a jar for up to
through the centre lengthways, and 1 For ras el hanout, place ingredients in 3 months. Taro, a mild, starchy root
char-grill, turning occasionally, until a frying pan and heat, stirring frequently, vegetable, is available from Middle
charred and cooked (4 minutes); until fragrant and toasted (1-2 minutes); Eastern and Asian grocers. If
season to taste. cool. Transfer to a mortar and pestle and unavailable, substitute parsnip. ➤
4 Spoon half saffron and pine nut milk coarsely grind.
onto a large platter and top with prawn 2 For labne, place yoghurt into a sieve
skewers. Scatter with corn mixture, finger lined with muslin over a bowl, cover
lime pearls and drizzle with extra-virgin and refrigerate until slightly thickened
olive oil. Serve with remaining saffron (1 hour). Discard whey and
and pine nut milk on the side. refrigerate labne until required.
Fried cauliflower
in baharat and
tahini sauce
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS //
COOK 1 HR 15 MINS (PLUS COOLING)
“Fried cauliflower is a huge deal in the

Middle East and is eaten almost
year-round,” says Farag. “This version is
super simple and reminds me of my
childhood – eating it cold or piping hot.”
1 bulb garlic
1 cauliflower (about 900gm), leaves
intact, quartered
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
225 gm hulled tahini
80 ml (1/3 cup) lemon juice
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
BAHARAT
2 tbsp each sumac and coriander seeds
1½ tbsp cumin seeds and ground
cinnamon
1 tbsp each black peppercorns and
sweet paprika Shawarma-spiced chicken with toum
3 tsp ground allspice SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 55 MINS (PLUS BRINING, RESTING)
2 tsp ground nutmeg
2½ tsp cardamom seeds “Shawarma spice is used on grilled meats throughout the Middle East,” explains
2 tsp whole cloves Farag. “It’s something we make our own blend of. Here, we’ve shared a version
of ours that uses cardamom and turmeric.” Begin this recipe a day ahead.
1 For baharat, place ingredients in
a frying pan and heat, stirring frequently, 1.5 kg chicken, butterflied 3 Remove chicken from brine and
until fragrant and toasted (1-2 minutes); 3 tsp citric acid pat dry. Place chicken, skin-side up in
cool completely. Transfer to a mortar and Extra-virgin olive oil, to serve a roasting pan fitted with a wire rack;
pestle and finely grind. SHAWARMA SPICE drizzle with oil and scatter with 1 tbsp
2 Preheat oven to 220˚C. Wrap garlic in 1 tbsp cumin seeds shawarma spice (or as desired) and
foil and roast on bottom shelf of oven 2 tsp each ground turmeric, coriander season to taste. Stand until chicken
until garlic is very soft (50 minutes). seeds and black peppercorns comes to room temperature
At the same time, place cauliflower on 1½ tsp each cardamom seeds and (30 minutes).
a large oven tray lined with baking ground nutmeg 4 Preheat oven to 220˚C fan-forced.
paper; roast for 15 minutes. When garlic 1 tsp each smoked paprika, garlic Roast chicken for 20 minutes then
is ready, remove from oven and unwrap. powder, ground cinnamon and reduce to 180˚C and roast until golden
Squeeze garlic from skin into a blender. onion powder and just cooked (30 minutes); rest for
3 Meanwhile, for tahini sauce, add TOUM 15 minutes before serving.
tahini, lemon juice, 150ml water, 2 tsp 2 egg whites 5 For toum, place egg whites in
sea salt flakes to the blender and blend 60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice a blender and blend on high until
until smooth and a thick saucy 12 garlic cloves (about 50gm), peeled white and frothy (8 minutes). Add
consistency; season to taste. 500 ml vegetable oil lemon juice, garlic and 10gm sea
4 Preheat vegetable oil in a large, deep salt flakes, and blend for a further
saucepan or deep-fryer to 180˚C. 1 Place 2 litres water, 50gm fine salt and 2 minutes. Gradually add oil until
Deep-fry cauliflower in batches, turning citric acid In a large non-reactive thick and emulsified (3 minutes);
occasionally, until golden (2-3 minutes; container with a lid, and whisk until season to taste and transfer to
be careful, hot oil will spit). Drain on combined. Add chicken and submerge. a serving bowl.
paper towel and season with salt and If there is not enough liquid to cover the 6 Place chicken on a large
scatter with a little baharat. chicken, add a little more water. Cover platter, scatter with extra
5 Spoon tahini sauce onto a large with lid and brine in the fridge overnight. shawarma spice and drizzle
platter and top with cauliflower. Scatter 2 Meanwhile, for shawarma spice, place with olive oil. Serve with toum
with baharat and drizzle with olive oil. ingredients in a frying pan and heat, on the side. ➤
Note Baharat is a warm spice blend that stirring frequently, until fragrant and
varies by region and even household. toasted (1-2 minutes); cool. Transfer to
Keep in a jar for up to 3 months. a mortar and pestle and finely grind.
Halawet el jibn and candied pine nuts
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS CHILLING, COOLING)
“This is a popular dessert in the Levant using semolina – the Middle East loves wheat,” says Farag. “You can substitute very fine
white polenta for semolina. This dish is best eaten the day of making, and with anything else you want such as dried fruit and nuts.”
320 fine white semolina 1 For halawet el jibn, place semolina glucose. Heat over high heat until
300 gm caster sugar and sugar in a large saucepan and temperature reaches 121˚C on a digital
560 gm finely grated akawi cheese whisk in 700ml cold water. Place thermometer. Using a large, long-
or mozzarella (see note) over medium heat and cook, stirring handled metal spoon, stir in bicarbonate
2 tbsp orange blossom water continuously, until heated through and of soda and a pinch of salt until
400 gm crème fraîche smooth (10 minutes). Stir in cheese until combined. Pour mixture over prepared
CANDIED PINE NUTS combined (5 minutes); remove from tray and spread evenly. Stand on a wire
200 gm caster sugar heat and stir in orange blossom. rack until cooled; coarsely crush when
100 gm pine nuts 2 Spread mixture into a 17.5cm x 27cm ready to serve.
60 gm liquid glucose greased rectangular slice pan and 4 Remove halawet el jibn from fridge
10 gm bicarbonate of soda smooth top; refrigerate until cool and set and scatter with candied pine nuts.
(45 minutes). Spoon over crème fraîche Serve immediately.
and return to fridge until ready to serve. Note Akawi is a soft unripened Middle
3 For candied pine nuts, grease and line Eastern brine cheese with a smooth
a large oven tray with baking paper. texture and mild, salty flavour. It is
Place 50ml water in a deep-sided available from select Middle Eastern
saucepan with sugar, pine nuts and grocers. Rinse and drain before using.
Coconut basbousa and fenugreek custard
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS INFUSING, RESTING)
“Traditionally, basbousa is a very dry semolina cake that’s drenched in

sugar syrup like baklava,” says Farag. “My version is like a soft pudding,
there are no eggs in the base so you can have a soft centre and not
worry about it setting.”
550 gm fine white semolina

300 ml sugar syrup (see note)
165 gm ghee, melted
150 gm desiccated coconut
160 ml (⅔ cup) milk
100 gm plain yoghurt
60 ml (¼ cup) coconut cream
FENUGREEK CUSTARD
500 ml (2 cups) milk
1 tsp fenugreek seeds, toasted
110 gm caster sugar
60 gm custard powder
2 eggs
1 Heat milk in a saucepan over medium

heat until steam appears. Stir in
fenugreek, then remove from heat and
infuse for 2 hours.
2 For basbousa, place semolina in the
bowl of a stand mixer. On low-medium
speed, beat in 220ml sugar syrup, ghee,
coconut, milk, yoghurt and coconut cream
until combined and smooth (2 minutes);
transfer to a large bowl and set aside.
3 For fenugreek custard, clean electric
mixer bowl, add sugar, custard powder
and eggs, and using a paddle attachment,
beat on high speed until thick and pale
(5 minutes). Meanwhile, strain milk and
return to pan; bring to the boil over high
heat. Reduce speed to low and gradually
add hot milk until combined. Place in
a large heatproof bowl; cook over
a double boiler over medium heat until
custard coats the back of a wooden
spoon thickly (4-5 minutes). The custard
powder prevents custard from splitting
and stabilises it during baking.
4 Preheat oven to 220˚C fan-forced.
Divide basbousa among six 300ml
ovenproof dishes and spread evenly over
base then smooth top. Divide custard
among dishes and smooth top. Place
dishes on two large oven trays and bake
until golden and blistered (15 minutes).
Drizzle with remaining sugar syrup while
pudding is hot; rest before serving.
Note For sugar syrup, combine an equal
quantity of sugar and water in a saucepan
and boil to dissolve; cool completely. ●
PASSAGE Words MICHAEL HARDEN
Warrigal green
shak bhaja
p 98
Pine mushroom
malaikari
p 100
TO INDIA
The spices of Bengali cuisine come to the table in a menu from
Enter Via Laundry’s HELLY RAICHURA.
Photography PARKER BLAIN
Styling LEE BLAYLOCK
Kosha mangsho
p 97
Sheemaur dhonay
saag
p 98
POSTO BORA
Wattleseed and
poppy seed fritter
MAKES 10 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 10 MINS
(PLUS REFRIGERATING, COOLING)
“Posto is the Indian name for poppy

seeds,” explains Helly Raichura. “I love
the mix of wattleseeds and poppy seeds
because they are equally delicious."
80 gm white poppy seeds (see note)

10 gm finely ground wattleseeds, plus
extra for scattering
1 spring onion, finely chopped
1 long green chilli, finely chopped
30 gm moist coconut flakes (such as
McKenzies)
½ tsp caster sugar
1 tbsp mustard oil, plus extra, for
shallow-frying
Julienned green chilli, sweet and
sour Indian pickles and steamed rice,
to serve
F
1 Heat a frying pan over medium heat.
Add poppy seeds and cook, stirring
or someone who champions tradition in Indian cooking, Helly Raichura frequently, until lightly toasted (1 minute).
takes an approach that’s far from traditional. A self- and family-trained cook Remove from heat and cool completely.
who was born and raised in Ahmedabad in India’s west, Raichura came to Transfer to a spice grinder or small
Melbourne in 2007 to study human resources but, via an ongoing and high-speed blender and finely grind.
ever-increasing love for cooking, ended up hosting one of the hottest food tickets in 2 Transfer poppy seeds to a large bowl
town in her own home. Enter Via Laundry, so-named because guests (10 per night) with wattleseeds, spring onion, chilli,
literally entered her home through the laundry, served multiple, intricately plated coconut, sugar, mustard oil and 60ml
versions of the Indian food Raichura loved but couldn’t find in Melbourne. water; season to taste and, using your
Fast-forward a couple of years, past the waiting list that grew to the thousands hands, work mixture until moisture is
and a series of pop-ups after using her home as a restaurant lost its charm, and absorbed and forms a soft dough that
Enter Via Laundry now has a permanent home in North Carlton. It’s retained can hold its shape. Add a little extra
the name despite the lack of laundry and the approach has changed a little too. water if the dough is too dry. Divide
Instead of plating and serving multiple dishes fine-dining style, Raichura is more dough into 10 portions (1 packed tbsp
closely emulating the way the food would be served “back home”. each) and form into 5cm discs. Place on
Raichura also has a mission to emphasise how different Indian cuisine can be a tray lined with baking paper and
from region to region. This winter in her restaurant, she’s focusing on Bengali refrigerate for 30 minutes to firm up.
food and the recipes she has created for this issue are all from that region and that 3 Heat 2mm mustard oil in a large
menu. Some of them have been simplified slightly “to make them achievable” but non-stick frying pan over medium-high
others are exactly as you would eat them in the restaurant or Bengal. heat. Add discs, cook (1-2 minutes)
“Bengali food is mustard-heavy and combines vegetable dishes with seafood on each side or until golden and
and meat, usually goat or lamb,” she says. “The cooking reflects the native food of cooked through.
the landscape so there is hardly any onions or garlic or tomatoes. But – good for 4 Transfer to a serving bowl, scatter with
winter which is why I chose this region – there are lots of potatoes.” extra wattleseeds and chilli and serve
“Spices change in intensity depending on where you get them so you need with pickles, rice and mains.
to develop dasir,” says Raichura, “a word that means understanding the Note White poppy seeds (posto), a mild,
characteristics of spice; which ones are unforgiving, like turmeric, and which nutty version of blue or black poppy
ones are less forceful, like cinnamon. Once you learn these you can play seeds, are available from Indian grocers
around – you may not even need a recipe!” and herbies.com.au. If unavailable,
Nicholson St, Carlton North, Vic, entervialaundry.com.au substitute blue or black poppy seeds.
Beetroot Hindi
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 50 MINS (PLUS COOLING)
This is from the indisputable king of Bengali cookbooks: The Calcutta Cookbook
by Minakshie Das Gupta, Bunny Gupta and Jaya Chaliha. “It’s a dish designed
to prepare your stomach for the spicy foods to come,” explains Raichura.
8 baby beetroots, trimmed sliced chilli. Cook, stirring continuously,

2½ tbsp mustard oil until lightly toasted (30 seconds –
¼ tsp each whole fenugreek, aniseed 1 minute); stand until ready to serve.
and carom seeds (see note) 3 Place yoghurt, asafoetida, remaining
½ tsp ground turmeric chilli, ground coriander and lime juice
1 tsp red chilli powder in a bowl; season to taste and stir
1 long green chilli, thinly sliced to combine.
200 gm natural yoghurt 4 To serve, spoon yoghurt over
Pinch of crushed asafoetida, soaked base of serving bowl and top
in 1 tsp water (see note) with roasted beetroots. Drizzle
1 tbsp ground coriander with infused oil and scatter
1 tbsp lime juice with coriander leaves.
Coriander leaves, to serve Note Asafoetida, carom
seeds (ajwain) and
1 Preheat oven to 180˚C. Place beetroot fenugreek are used in
in a roasting pan and cover with foil. Indian cuisine to aid
Roast for 45-50 minutes or until beetroot digestion. In its raw form
is cooked but still with a crunch. Set asafoetida is unpleasant
aside until cool enough to handle; peel tasting, however when
skin and discard. cooked, it imparts a deep
2 Meanwhile, heat mustard oil in a small savoury taste. All these
saucepan over medium heat. Add spices are available from
fenugreek, aniseed, and carom seeds spice shops, Indian grocers
with turmeric, chilli powder and half and herbies.com.au. ➤
KOSHA MANGSHO
Mughlai lamb curry
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 1 HR 45 MINS (PLUS MARINATING)
“This is a very Mughlai recipe, a cuisine that was introduced to the region after the
Mongol invasions in the 1300s, so there is more meat and onions involved,” says
Raichura. “It’s basically caramelised onions and meat.” Begin this recipe a day ahead.
1.25 kg boneless lamb shoulder, cut into remaining ground spices and cook until
3cm pieces spices are fragrant, and onion is lightly
2 tbsp mustard oil caramelised (1-2 minutes).
8 cloves 3 Add marinated lamb to saucepan and
6 green cardamom pods cook stirring until lightly browned and
4 bay leaves coated in onion mixture (6-8 minutes).
1 cinnamon quill Stir in yoghurt with 1 litre water and bring
2 large brown onions (about 500gm), to a simmer
thinly sliced (3-4 minutes). Reduce heat to very low,
3 tsp finely grated ginger cover partially with a lid and cook,
2 garlic cloves, finely grated stirring frequently, until lamb starts to
1 tsp each ground coriander, ground tenderise (1 hour). Remove lid and cook,
cumin and ground turmeric stirring frequently, until lamb is very
2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder tender, dark brown and sauce has
200 gm plain Greek-style yoghurt thickened (35-45 minutes); season to
Sliced green chilli and steamed rice, taste. If sauce starts to dry out add extra
to serve water, a little at a time.
MARINADE 4 Meanwhile, for luchi, in a large bowl,
100 gm Greek-style yoghurt mix flour, spinach, oil, 100ml water and a
2 small brown onions, coarsely pinch of fine cooking salt by hand until
chopped combined. If dough is too dry, add a little
2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped extra water 1 tbsp at a time; knead until
1 tsp ground turmeric dough is firm and smooth (5-8 minutes).
2 tsp shahi garam masala (see note) Rest dough for 15 minutes. Roll dough
LUCHI into 25gm balls and place on a lined
250 gm plain flour, sifted oven trays; loosely cover with plastic
2 tbsp finely chopped spinach wrap and stand for a further 15 minutes.
1¼ tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra, for 5 Half fill a large saucepan with extra oil
deep-frying and heat over high heat to 180˚C. Roll
each ball of dough to 8cm discs on
1 For marinade, place ingredients in a work surface. Deep-dry luchi, in
a blender and blend to a smooth paste. batches, turning halfway, until puffed and
Transfer to a non-reactive container golden (40 seconds - 1 minute each
with a lid, add lamb and toss to coat side). Drain on paper towel.
well. Cover with lid and marinate in 6 To serve, transfer kosha mangsho to
fridge overnight. a serving bowl and top with green chilli
2 For kosha mangsho sauce, heat with luchi and rice on the side.
mustard oil in a large saucepan over Note Shahi garam masala, a spice blend
medium-high heat until just starting to unique to Indian cuisine and culture, is
smoke. Add whole spices and stir until available from Indian grocers and
lightly toasted (30 seconds - 1 minute). herbies.com.au. ➤
Add onions, ginger and garlic, and cook,
stirring frequently, until onions start to
caramelise (5-6 minutes). Scatter over
SHAK BHAJA
Stir-fried warrigal
greens and vegetables
“Jute leaves would traditionally be used

here but they’re almost impossible to
get in Australia and importing them
would be against the local nature of
Bengali cuisine,” says Raichura. “I love
the texture of warrigal greens but you
can use spinach here too.”
300 gm Desiree potatoes, peeled, cut into

rough 1cm pieces
300 gm Kent pumpkin, peeled, seeds
removed, cut into rough 2cm pieces
1 tsp finely grated ginger
1 long green chilli, seeds removed,
finely chopped
½ tsp ground turmeric
2½ tbsp mustard oil
½ tsp nigella seeds
2 red dried chillies
½ tsp caster sugar
300 gm picked warrigal greens or baby
spinach, stalks removed
1 Place potato and pumpkin in

a saucepan and fill three-quarters full
with water. Place over high heat and
SHEEMAUR DHONAY SAAG bring to the boil. Reduce heat to medium
Green beans and coriander stir-fry and cook until vegetables are three-
quarters cooked (15-18 minutes). Drain
and stand until ready to use.
“Traditionally, this dish is often made with broad beans,” says Raichura, “but you can use 2 Meanwhile, combine ginger, chilli
any kind of bean you like – even snow peas work here. The most important thing is they and turmeric in a small bowl with
have a bit of crunch.” ½ tbsp water.
3 Heat a large frying pan with mustard
200 gm picked coriander sprigs 1 Place coriander, ginger and chilli with oil over medium-high heat. Add nigella
1 tbsp finely grated ginger 2 tbsp mustard oil and 60ml cold water seeds and cook for 30 seconds, then
1 long green chilli, thinly sliced in a blender and blend to a paste. add ginger mixture, and cook until
80 ml (⅓ cup) mustard oil Set aside. fragrant (1 minute). Add sugar and cook
½ tsp nigella seeds 2 Heat a large frying pan with remaining until starting to caramelise (30 seconds).
3 tsp caster sugar mustard oil over medium-high heat. Add potatoes and pumpkin, and cook,
400 gm green beans, trimmed, cut into Add nigella seeds and cook, stirring, stirring until just cooked (4-6 minutes).
2.5cm lengths until lightly toasted (30 seconds). Stir Add warrigal greens and cook until
Edible flowers, to serve in paste and sugar and cook, stirring wilted (1-2 minutes). Season to taste,
continuously, until fragrant and lightly transfer to a serving bowl and serve
toasted (1-2 minutes). with mains.
3 Add beans and cook until beans are Note Warrigal greens are easy to grow
just cooked and still with a crunch at home, or can be foraged from coastal
(3-5 minutes); season to taste, transfer areas, where permitted. Warrigal greens
to a serving plate and scatter with edible are available from farmers’ markets,
flowers. select greengrocers or online. ➤
“Spices change in
intensity depending
on where you get
them so you need
to develop dasir...
understanding the
characteristics
of spice.”
Pine mushroom malaikari SHORSHE CHINGRI
Bengali prawns
“This dish references the strong trading relationship between India and Malaysia,” and seablite
explains Raichura, “hence the addition of onion and ginger. It’s often served with crab
in India but any nutty-flavoured mushrooms work really well.” (PLUS MARINATING)
80 ml (⅓ cup) mustard oil 1 tbsp ground cardamom “Shorshe is a typical marinade for the
3 cloves 1 For garam masala, place spices in region using a lot of mustard,” says
2 cardamom pods a small frying pan over medium heat and Raichura. “I put a bit of sugar in any dish
1 each cinnamon quill and bay leaf toast, swirling in pan, stirring frequently, that uses mustard as it helps to balance
120 gm red onion, finely chopped in until toasted and fragrant (1-2 minutes); the acidity.” Begin recipe a day ahead.
blender set aside until required.
1 tbsp caster sugar 2 Heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in a large 2 tbsp yellow mustard seeds
80 gm (⅓ cup) melted ghee frying pan over medium-high heat. 60 gm natural yoghurt
1 tbsp finely grated ginger Add cloves, cardamom, cinnamon and 1 tbsp caster sugar
½ tsp ground turmeric bay, cook, stirring frequently, until ½ tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder (see fragrant and lightly toasted 1 long green chilli, finely chopped
note) (10-20 seconds). Add onion and sugar 30 gm grated fresh coconut
60 gm natural yoghurt and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly 100 ml mustard oil
100 ml coconut milk browned (6-8 minutes). Stir in 2 tbsp 12 large green king prawns, peeled,
250 ml coconut cream ghee and ginger and cook, stirring deveined, heads and tails intact
400 gm pine mushrooms, trimmed continuously, until oil separates from Seablite and steamed rice, to serve
Baby coriander leaves, to serve mixture (4-5 minutes).
GARAM MASALA 3 Reduce heat to medium and add 1 Place mustard seeds in a small bowl
1 tbsp ground cinnamon turmeric, chilli powder, 2 tbsp garam and cover with 160ml cold water; leave
1 tbsp ground cloves masala and yoghurt; cook, stirring to stand at room temperature overnight.
continuously, until combined (5 minutes). 2 Meanwhile, place yoghurt in a fine
Stir in coconut milk and cream; season to sieve lined with muslin over a bowl and
taste. Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to refrigerate for 2 hours to drain.
medium and simmer, stirring frequently, 3 Place mustard seeds and soaking
until slightly thickened (8-12 minutes). water in a blender with sugar, turmeric,
4 Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 tbsp chilli, coconut and 60ml mustard oil, and
ghee in a frying pan over high heat. blend until combined. Transfer to
Add mushrooms and cook, stirring a large bowl, stir in yoghurt, add prawns,
occasionally, until lightly golden season to taste and toss to combine;
(4-5 minutes). marinate for 1 hour before cooking.
5 Spoon malaikari sauce into a serving 4 Preheat a large frying pan with
bowl and top with mushrooms. Scatter remaining 2 tbsp mustard oil over
with baby coriander leaves and serve. medium-high heat. Add prawns and
Note Store extra garam masala in an spoon in marinade. Cover with a lid
airtight container for up to 3 months. and cook, turning occasionally, until
Kashmiri red chilli powder is available lightly golden and cooked through
from Indian grocers and herbies.com.au. (5-6 minutes). Season to taste, transfer
If pine mushrooms are not available, to a platter, spoon over pan juices,
substitute mixed seasonal mushrooms. scatter with seablite and serve with
steamed rice.
Note Seablite, a coastal plant available
in Australia, grows in salty mudflats and
saline estuaries. It can be eaten raw,
steamed, stir-fried or blanched and is
a great complement to seafood dishes. ●
Pork shoulder
vindaloo
p 108
SPICE world
Follow the history of spice’s fragrant, heady journey aound the

world in ELEANOR LORD’s new book The Nutmeg Trail.
Photography OLA O. SMIT
Turmeric and
tamarind jamu
p 109
W
hat is a spice?
At their simplest, spices are the parts of plants most
densely rich in flavour, which can enliven and elevate
food. They are the dried seeds, barks, roots, rhizomes,
fruits, arils, flower buds and resins from plants that grow mostly in
tropical climates.
Ask a cook and they will tell you about the aromas that have to
be teased out through cooking and that spices are decidedly not
herbs, the fresh and leafy parts of plants grown more locally. They
will know that spices’ aromas and flavours are volatile and fat
soluble, the spices best freshly ground and their flavours extracted
by sizzling in oil, and how they can be used to build layers of flavour
to excite all the senses.
Ask a botanist and you’ll hear about the essential oils, oleoresins,
terpenes and other compounds, which each bring specific aromas
and tastes. These chemical stores in plants have functions to help
them survive and reproduce. Often the very things humans are
drawn to – the pungency, bitterness, heat or numbness – are actually
defence mechanisms for the plants, their armour to repel predators.
In the curious case of cinnamon, the resinous bark of the
Cinnamomum tree, its warm, woody scent is created when the plant
is being eaten to communicate to nearby trees to prepare their
defensive chemicals. Salted chicken
A historian’s definition will focus on spices’ relative geographical with green ginger
scarcity, which made them expensive, elitist and highly sought after. and red chilli
In quest of spice, man first acquired an understanding of earth’s Hainan ji fan
geography, and soon after a taste for mastery of it. For both
anthropologists and writers, the story of spice has been laden with
107
mythology, symbolism, ritual, romance, seduction, temptation,
bloodshed, exploitation and extraction. p
The story of spice has
been laden with
mythology, symbolism,
ritual, romance, seduction,
temptation and bloodshed.
CHING JING DAI ZI
Scallops with ginger
and black pepper
SERVES 2
Pepper has been around since the first

HAINAN JI FAN
syllables of recorded time. Diphilus,
a 3rd century BC physician from the Salted chicken with green ginger and red chilli
Greek island of Sifnos, recommended it SERVES 4
with scallops. It is a time-honoured
pairing, hot with sweet, employed Appearing in different versions in Vietnam, Hong Kong, Malaysia and Thailand, this
millennia later in this Hong Kong dish. dish maps centuries of Chinese immigration from the island of Hainan. In Singapore,
chicken rice is considered a national dish. Pictured p105
6-8 scallops in their shells
2 spring onions 1 medium chicken 5 For the red chilli sauce, blend all the
3 cm ginger Handful coarse salt ingredients together to a rough paste
1½ tbsp light soy sauce 4 slices of ginger and season with salt.
2 tsp Shaoxing rice wine or dry Sherry Handful spring onion tops 6 When the bird is cooked, set it aside
1 scant tsp coarsely ground black 400 gm (2 cups) jasmine rice to rest breast-side up under a tent of foil.
pepper Drizzle of toasted sesame oil The juices will have dripped through into
1½ tsp sesame oil GREEN GINGER SAUCE the steaming water to create a lovely,
100 gm spring onions, white and pale gingery broth, which we’ll use to cook
1 Prepare scallops by using a cutlery green parts the rice.
knife to slice along the inside of the flat 80 gm ginger, peeled 7 Wash the rice thoroughly, swirling the
shell with sweeping motions to release 6 tbsp neutral oil grains in four changes of cold water until
the muscle and open the hinge. Discard RED CHILLI SAUCE most of the cloudiness has gone. This
flat shells. Cut out scallop meat and 4 red chillies, seeds in or out breaks down the surface starch, which
reserve curved shells. Gently pull away 2 garlic cloves could otherwise make the rice sticky.
the frill and darker coloured stomach sac 1½ tbsp rice vinegar Drain well and put in a pan. Add 625 ml
and discard. Pull away small white (2½ cups) of the broth, topping up with
ligament and you’ll be left with fleshy 1 The day before eating, prick chicken water if need be. Set over a high heat
white scallop meat and bright orange all over. Remove any trussing string and and bring to a rolling boil. Bubble for
coral. Season with salt and leave for 10 salt exuberantly, inside and out, rubbing 15 seconds, then turn down the heat to
minutes to cure meat and enhance its the coarse grains into skin. Cover in the lowest setting and clamp on a lid.
flavour. In the meantime, scrub the curved a bowl and refrigerate overnight. Leave to steam for 15 minutes without
shells, then put in a pan of boiling water 2 A couple of hours before eating, bring disturbing. Remove from the heat without
for 15 minutes to sterilise. Rinse salt from chicken out of the fridge to take the chill peeking in and leave the rice to continue
scallops in cold water and pat dry. off. Forty minutes later, rinse chicken, steaming under the lid for 10 minutes.
2 Trim and thinly slice spring onions, inside and out, to remove salt. Gently fluff the grains with a fork
then put into ice-cold water to curl. Peel 3 Fill a large steaming pan with 625ml before serving.
ginger and julienne by slicing thinly, then (2½ cups) water. On the upper tier, 8 Drizzle the chicken with sesame oil
slice again into thin sticks. Divide among scatter over the ginger slices and a and serve with the rice and sauces.
shells with scallop meat. handful of the green tops cut from the Note Cucumber salad is a good addition.
3 Cook scallops by either laying the spring onions that you’ll be using in the Make a dressing by seasoning rice
shells in a steaming pan or placing the sauce. Sit the chicken breast-side down vinegar generously with sugar, salt and
shells in a couple of centimetres of on top and cover with a lid. Bring to the minced ginger. Toss through a couple of
boiling water in a shallow pan. Cover and boil, then steam for 35 minutes, or until finely sliced cucumbers and leave to
steam for 6-8 minutes or until scallop the chicken is just cooked through. marinate in the fridge for at least 30
meat is opaque. A meat thermometer should read 74°C minutes or overnight. ➤
4 In a small pan, combine soy sauce, or the juices in the thigh run clear.
Shaoxing rice wine, pepper and sesame 4 While the chicken is cooking, prepare
oil and warm through. Spoon over the sauces. For the green ginger sauce,
steamed scallops and serve, topped with finely chop equal quantities of spring
a tangled curl of spring onions. onion and ginger and mix together in
Note If you are unable to source scallops a heatproof bowl. Heat the oil until just
in their shells, cook scallops in steamer, smoking, then pour over and mix.
along with ginger, for 4-6 minutes. Season with salt.
Every week
tomato lentils
SERVES 4
This is the one recipe I cook every week

and is what I crave most after a few days
away from home. It would be audacious
to use the label dal as I draw on British
store cupboard ingredients and
a one-pot method without a finishing
tarka. However, the lentils are certainly
Indian-inspired, following in a long
tradition of dals travelling and adapting
to new homes.
1 tsp black mustard seeds

2 tbsp neutral oil
1 large onion, chopped
30 gm coriander
4 garlic cloves, minced
3 cm ginger, peeled, minced (1 tbsp)
½ tsp chilli flakes
1 tbsp curry powder
8 curry leaves
400 gm tin chopped tomatoes
200 gm (1 cup) split red lentils, washed
Juice of ½ lemon
1 Set a large pan over medium heat, add

the mustard seeds and let them start to
pop. Add the oil and onion and cook for
about 10 minutes, until soft and starting
to caramelise.
2 Meanwhile, cut the stems off the
coriander, discard any particularly thick,
tough ones and finely slice the rest. Set
the leaves aside for later.
3 Add the coriander stems, garlic and
ginger to the onion and cook for
a couple of minutes. Stir in the chilli
flakes, curry powder and curry leaves
and let the fragrance hit you.
4 Pour in the tin of tomatoes, then fill the
tin with water and add this too. Finally
mix in the lentils and a teaspoon of salt.
Bring to a bubble, lower the heat and
cover with a lid. Simmer for 25 minutes. The lentils are certainly
5 Leave to cool just a little before Indian-inspired, following
stirring in the lemon juice. Taste for
in a long tradition of
seasoning – a pinch of sugar may be
needed to bring out the flavours. Serve dals travelling and
strewn with the coriander leaves. adapting to new homes.
Pork shoulder vindaloo JAMU KUNYIT
SERVES 3-4 Turmeric and
tamarind jamu
This is an assertive braise resulting
SERVES 4-6
from three continents’ ingredients and
ideas coming together. The intensely In the royal courts of Java more than
red masala comes from Kashmiri chilli a thousand years ago, Indonesian
powder, which brings more in colour princesses were drinking spicy tonics
and flavour than heat. The dish is from called jamu, said to sustain eternal
Goa, with roots in a Portuguese pickled youth and beauty. Such flights of fancy
pork dish called carne de vinho e alhos. aside, they are still widely taken today,
Fifteenth-century spice-seekers from both as powerful herbal medicines and
Portugal brought the notion to India, for their health-giving properties.
where it acquired local spices. Pictured p104
Pictured p102
100 gm fresh turmeric
500 gm pork shoulder, cut into 3cm 30 gm ginger
chunks 1 tbsp tamarind paste
3 tbsp neutral oil 40 gm (¼ cup) palm sugar or
2 large onions, finely sliced brown sugar
3 ripe tomatoes, chopped Juice of 1 lime
2 tsp tamarind paste
2 tsp brown sugar 1 Brush the turmeric and ginger roots
SPICE PASTE clean (no need to peel) and roughly
4 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder chop. Put in a blender with 800ml water
1 tsp fine sea salt and whizz to semi-smoothness.
¾ tsp ground cumin, 2 Pour the orange liquid into a pan and
¾ tsp ground coriander add the tamarind and palm sugar. Cover,
¾ tsp black mustard seeds bring slowly to a bubble and simmer for
½ tsp each ground black pepper, 10 minutes.
ground cinnamon, ground turmeric 3 Remove from the heat and leave to
4 cloves cool before adding the lime juice. Strain
4 green cardamom pods, seeds only through a fine sieve, gently pressing
4 garlic cloves, minced the pulp to extract the juice. Adjust
3 cm ginger, peeled, minced (1 tbsp) sweetness to taste and thin with
60 ml (¼ cup) wine vinegar water if you want a gentler drink.
1 Mix together all ingredients for the

paste in a bowl. Toss in pork, staining it
brick red, and marinate for 2-3 hours, or
overnight in the fridge.
2 Over a medium heat, warm the oil in
a casserole and fry onion until soft and
pale golden. Add pork and its marinade
and cook, stirring frequently, for 5-10
minutes until spice paste starts to brown.
3 Stir in tomatoes, tamarind and sugar.
Loosen with a splash of water. Bring to
a boil then cover and turn heat down.
Simmer for 1 hour or more, stirring
occasionally. The pork should be tender
and masala thick – partially remove the This extract from The
Nutmeg Trail by Eleanor Ford
lid towards the end of cooking if it needs (Murdoch Books; $49.99) has
to reduce. Rest before serving. been reproduced with minor
GT style edits.
F A F RI C
O of
Africa are brought to the table in a n
ew
bo
ok
fro
m
OUT
A
s
ch
ne
ef
isi
AN
cu
TO
iad
Myr
COC
AGNE.
Sautéed beef with

spinach sauce
p 115
Fat rice
p 115
ho
P
to
gr
ap
hy
AL
IN
EP
RIN
CET
A
Rabbit kedjenou frica is a continent made up of 54 sovereign
states. Straddling the equator, it encompasses
a great number of climates: equatorial in the
114
centre and near coastal areas; wet tropical on the
p fringes of the equatorial region; tropical temperate with
a dry climate and dry winter in a large part of southern
Africa; semi-arid and arid in the north with high
temperatures and very low rainfall; temperate near the
Mediterranean with hot and dry summers and cool and
wet winters.
This diversity in climates is an initial indicator of the
diversity of produce, and consequently cuisines found in
Africa. While we often talk about African cuisine, it would
be more insightful to refer to the “cuisines of Africa”. Even
though the basics are often similar, there are actually as
many African cuisines as there are African countries,
cultures and dialects. And while the Maghreb region is the
most well-known from a culinary perspective, the Sub-
Saharan region is yet to be explored.
Traditionally the various African cuisines use
a combination of local produce such as fruit, grains and
vegetables. This is especially since the majority of people
(with the exception of the most well off) don’t have the
means to eat meat and fish every day.
African cuisines are often labelled as too oily, too spicy,
too rich, too strong smelling or criticised for being served
up in slapdash manner... But rest assured, if you are able to
enjoy a French foie gras, delight in a good homemade
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (TEXTURE).
mayonnaise or hollandaise sauce, savour a smelly blue

cheese or eat your sushi with wasabi, then you will be able
to appreciate the varied and tasty dishes that come from the
cradle of humanity.
Red rice
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 45 MINS
“This recipe is originally from Senegal

but has as many variations as there are
countries that claim it as their national
dish,” says Anto Cocagne. “Each part of
the continent has adapted the recipe
according to its history, its environment
and the products that today make up its
culinary identity.’’
This extract from Saka Saka 300 gm parboiled long-grain rice

by Anto Cocagne & Aline 60 ml (¼ cup) oil (canola, sunflower or
Princet (Murdoch Books; $45)
has been reproduced with peanut)
minor GT style edits. 2 tbsp red nokoss (see recipe p114)
3 tbsp tomato paste
150 gm tomato passata
2 Selim pepper pods
1 bay leaf
Salt
Chives, to serve
1 Rinse the rice in cold water and drain.

Pre-cook the rice for 10 minutes, either
by steaming or in salted boiling water.
Drain again.
2 Heat the oil in a large pot and sweat
the nokoss for 3 minutes. Add the
tomato paste and cook over low heat for
6 minutes, stirring occasionally. Mix in
the rice.
3 Add the passata, Selim pepper pods
and bay leaf and continue cooking until
the mixture has reduced and thickened.
Season with salt and add 560ml water
(or 1.5 times the volume of rice), then
bring to the boil and cook for 3 minutes.
4 Reduce the heat to very low, then
cover and cook for 10 minutes.
5 Stir the rice with a fork to separate the
grains. Cover and leave to cook for
a further 10 minutes. Repeat this step
until the rice is cooked. Sprinkle with
chopped chives.
6 Serve with grilled meat or dishes with
meat and sauce. ➤
Cassava and prawn
fritters
PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK 20 MINS Rabbit kedjenou
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 30 MINS
Cassava cannot be peeled with a peeler,
but needs to be carefully peeled with “Kedjenou means ‘shaken’ in Baoulé language, a dialect spoken in the Ivory Coast,”
a knife to properly remove the skin, says Cocagne. “The most popular kedjenou recipe is made with chicken, but this
which is poisonous if ingested. recipe is traditionally made with small game cooked in pieces over a wood fire in an
earthenware dish called a ‘canari’. This is a dish cooked without water using the
3 large cassava tubers (about 1.5kg) ‘smothering’ technique.” Pictured p112
½ bunch herbs (such as flat-leaf
parsley, chervil and/or coriander) 720 gm rabbit thighs 3 Dice the onions and slice the
200 gm cooked prawns 4 tbsp red nokoss (see recipe p114) tomatoes. Finely dice the eggplant and
3 eggs 4 tsp red palm oil, plus extra for finely chop the parsley.
2 tbsp red nokoss (see below) drizzling 4 Sweat remaining red nokoss in the
Salt and pepper 3 white onions casserole dish, then place rabbit thighs
500 ml (2 cups) oil for frying 4 large tomatoes in the base and top with the onion,
RED NOKOSS 2 eggplant tomato and eggplant. Add bouquet garni
1 red capsicum 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley and season with salt and pepper, then
2 mild/sweet red chillies 1 bouquet garni cover and simmer for 10 minutes.
1 red onion Salt and pepper 5 Vigorously shake the casserole dish,
3 garlic cloves then simmer over medium heat for
20 gm fresh ginger 1 Wash and trim the rabbit thighs. another 10 minutes. Shake the casserole
1 tomato Combine thighs with half of the red dish a second time, then simmer for a
1 celery stalk nokoss in a bowl. further 10 minutes. It is very important
2 thyme sprigs 2 Brown rabbit thighs in the red palm oil not to open the lid during cooking.
2 flat-leaf parsley sprigs in a flameproof casserole dish. Remove 6 Serve hot with attiéké (cassava
1 tbsp soumbala powder (see note) and set aside. couscous).
1 To make the red nokoss, deseed the

capsicum and chillies. Peel and roughly
chop the onion, garlic and ginger.
Roughly chop the tomato and celery.
2 Using a blender, blend capsicum,
chillies, onion, garlic, ginger, tomato,
celery, and herbs into a smooth paste.
Add soumbala and 3 tbsp water, then
blend again. Keep paste in a jar in fridge.
3 To make the fritters, peel the cassava.
Remove the wooden stem in the middle,
then grate with a fine grater to get thin
strands cassava.
4 Place grated cassava pulp in clean tea
towel and press firmly to remove liquid.
5 Finely chop the herbs. Clean and shell
the prawns then cut into small pieces.
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (TEXTURE).

6 In a bowl, mix cassava pulp, eggs,
prawns, herbs and red nokoss. Season
with salt and pepper and mix well. Form
mixture into small fritters, 1cm thick.
7 Heat oil in a pot and fry fritters until
golden. Drain on paper towel as you
cook them.
8 Serve the fritters hot as a starter or
tapas, accompanied by thinly sliced
crudités and avocado dip.
Note Soumbala is a traditional
condiment in West African cooking. It is
made by processing the seeds from the
pods of the néré tree.
Sautéed beef with spinach sauce
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS CHILLING)
“This dish is a version of egousi, a dish that is very popular in West Africa. It is generally eaten with offal, especially tripe, but if
you’re not a fan, a beef fillet will work really well.” Pictured p110
500 gm beef fillet (or eye fillet) 1 To make the orange nokoss, peel the 5 In a frying pan, heat half the red palm
2 tbsp red nokoss (see recipe p114) carrot, onion, garlic and ginger. Deseed oil and sauté beef in small batches for
500 gm English spinach the chillies. Add the carrot to a pot of 2 minutes or until well browned. Set
Splash of vinegar, for washing salted water and bring to the boil. Cook aside. In the same frying pan, sweat the
50 ml red palm oil for 10 minutes, then remove from the orange nokoss with the remaining palm
4 tbsp orange nokoss (see below) water. Roughly chop the carrot, onion, oil for 5 minutes. Add the spinach and
100 gm ground African pistachios or leek, celery, garlic, ginger, chillies and sauté briefly, then add the ground
pepitas (see note) thyme and combine in a blender. African pistachios and stir for 5 minutes.
Salt and pepper 2 Blend everything into a smooth paste. Add a little water if it starts to stick. Add
A few mustard greens and roasted Add the turmeric, smoked fish and 3 tbsp the beef slices and cooking juices and
African pistachios or pepitas, to serve water, then blend again. Keep the paste heat briefly. Season with salt and pepper.
ORANGE NOKOSS in a glass jar in the fridge. 6 Serve the sautéed beef and
1 carrot 3 Slice beef into thin strips. Put strips in spinach with white rice. Garnish with
1 brown onion a bowl with red nokoss and mix well. a few mustard greens and roasted
3 garlic cloves Cover and set aside for 1 hour in the African pistachios.
20 gm fresh ginger fridge. Note African pistachios are nothing like
2 mild/sweet chillies 4 Remove stalks from spinach. Wash the pistachios we are used to in the
1 leek, white part only spinach leaves in vinegared water and West. In Africa, what we call a pistachio
1 celery stalk then in clean water, swishing around is the almond-shaped kernel found in
2 thyme sprigs well. Drain and set aside. squash or marrow. When these seeds
2 tbsp turmeric are ground, they have the same
1 tbsp dried smoked fish properties as almond meal.
Fat rice and pepper. Cook over low heat until 4 Transfer the meat to the caramelised
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK 2 HRS
the meat is tender (about 45 minutes). onion mix, reserving the cooking liquid,
Pictured p111 2 Bring some water to the boil in add the whole chilli and simmer for
a couscoussier (or a steamer lined with 10 minutes. Remove the meat and chilli
1 guinea fowl or small chicken muslin) to partially cook the rice. Wash and set aside.
(about 1kg) the rice and set it above the 5 Stir the rice into the caramelised
150 ml vegetable oil couscoussier. Cover and cook the rice onion. Add the liquid from cooking the
3 tbsp red nokoss (see recipe p114) for 10 minutes. Stir, then cook for meat and enough water so that the rice
4 tsp soumbala (see note p114) a further 20 minutes. The rice is ready is covered by 1cm. Cover and cook over
Salt and pepper when the surface of the rice is hard low heat for 15 minutes.
400 gm (2 cups) long-grain rice (difficult to poke a finger through). 6 Stir the rice, place the meat pieces on
2 large onions Remove rice from the heat, then cover top, then cover and cook for a further
½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, plus and set aside. 15 minutes.
sprigs to serve 3 Peel and slice the onions, pick the 7 Serve meat and rice with parsley
2 tomatoes parsley leaves. Dice the tomatoes. sprigs, chillies and lemon wedges. ●
1 mild yellow chilli, plus extra to serve Heat the remaning oil in a large
Lemon wedges, to serve flameproof casserole dish and sweat
half the onion over medium heat. Blend Many of the ingredients in this book
are stocked by Essential Ingredient
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heavy-based saucepan and brown the soumbala and nokoss to make a paste. bulk wholefood stores. You can also
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westafricanfoods.com.au,
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cover with water and season with salt becomes golden and caramelised. floraafricanshopaustralia.com.au
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TRAVEL
J U LY
Heat of the moment

Tea time in Morocco, exploring
the Maluku Islands, a chef ’s guide
to Nashville, and checking into
a hot new Melbourne hotel.
Marrakech
p 120
PHOTOGRAPHY ELISE HASSEY.
The art of...
moderation
ANNA HART recalls the Mexican dish that finally
ILLUSTRATION ADOBE STOCK.
taught her that less is sometimes more.
The art of travel
A
few years ago, a spicy Mexican meal a potent fresh chilli salsa. I am always hungry for
changed the way I live, love and travel breakfast, and I wanted to devour it, but I had
forever. I had never really respected met my match: my mouth burned, I couldn’t
moderation, or temperance, or even finish the dish. I grew up in Singapore so I’m
compromise before. “It only takes one person accustomed to spicy dishes and believed my
to make a compromise,” I would cheerfully tastebuds invincible; how could my mouth let
announce when trying to get my way about me down like this? Something delicious had
something – and I was never the one deviating finally proved too much for me! And in that
from my whims and wishes. As well as being moment, I knew the true heartbreak of too
unable to compromise, I have always been unable much of a good thing. I knew that underneath
to get enough of a good thing. As a child, this the layer of fiery serrano and chile de árbol chillies
might be birthday cake – the only thing that was a comforting, satiating breakfast dish, but
stopped me devouring the entire thing would be I couldn’t access this pleasure. It was the moment
the physical intervention of my parents. Even my gluttonous soul was forced to accept that
now, somewhat constrained as I am, by social moderation might occasionally be a good idea.
niceties and a desire to remain an accepted And that plate of chilaquiles pried open a
member of the tribe, I rarely look at something chink in excess’s armour, and I began observing
delicious without thinking that I could polish other aspects of life that might be enriched, rather
it off entirely myself, if the judgmental eyes than watered down, by a “less is more” approach.
surrounding me glanced away for long enough. I used to stuff my holiday itineraries like I was
This magazine caters specifically for wide-eyed stuffing a suitcase, squishing an extra museum
experience gluttons like myself, informing readers visit or market tour in any given nook or cranny.
how to have the best of everything immediately, I was so hungry to experience a new city or culture
so I hope some of you will identify with these that adrenalin propelled me through 16-hour days,
sentiments of a sybaritic extremist. I would hear and it wasn’t unusual for me to leave a hotel
other people saying, “Oh, this dessert is a bit rich realising I’d never once sat on the sofa, or sunk
for me,” or “Gosh, this ravioli is a bit heavy,” and into the vast bath, or even been in the pool. But
I would nod politely as if I knew what they were a crammed itinerary leaves no space for accidental
talking about – but the fact is, nothing good was joy, spontaneous decisions and those much-needed
ever too much for me. I’m never the one to idle moments when you catch yourself thinking,
suggest leaving a party, I am always available for “Ah, this is nice, isn’t it?”
‘one more drink,’ I can eat any time, any place, So now, I travel differently. Coco Chanel issued
even if my previous meal was just 30 minutes this fashion advice: “Before you leave the house,
prior, and I virtually never decline a promising look in the mirror and take one thing off.”
invitation or dismiss an exciting suggestion. These days, I do this with a travel itinerary; I put
I spent most of my teens and twenties wholly it together in my usual feverish state, and then
unconvinced about the merits of moderation. take something out. I rarely stay in a hotel for
“Less is more” is surely just a lie humans tell fewer than three nights, because I want at least
ourselves so we feel a bit better about being one day knowing I don’t have to leave the next day.
poor, or busy. Surely, given free choice, we’d That feeling is important to me, now. I would
do everything to excess, all the time: eating, rather linger longer, in a smaller area, than feel
Anna is a travel drinking, loving, relaxing and travelling? like I’m window shopping. And if I don’t feel like
and lifestyle But in Oaxaca, I was saved from a life of visiting that museum in Florence today, well, I’ll
journalist, and unfettered excess by a Mexican breakfast dish just have to return to Florence. It was Oscar Wilde
author of the
called chilaquiles, consisting of deep-fried day-old who said, “Everything in moderation, including
travel memoir
Departures. tortilla slices smothered in sauce, fresh cream, moderation,” but I’m grateful to those serrano
@annadothart queso fresco and topped with a fried egg and chillies for finally making me accept the M word. ●
Traditionl rugs at Marrakech
medina. Clockwise from right: a
tagine of chicken, walnuts and
dates at Karawan Riad, Fes; a
vibrant blue door at Essaouira; a
guard at the Mausoleum of
Mohammed V in Rabat.
Opposite: the city of Rabat.
ROCK
A journey across the heart of Morocco
is a lesson in flavour and fragrance,
discovers HANNAH-ROSE YEE.
THE Photography ELISE HASSEY
KASBAH
Clockwise from
left: Hassan
serves barley
porridge from
a tagine for
breakfast;
poolside at Sir
Richard Branson’s
Kasbah Tamadot
hotel in the Atlas
Mountains.
T
he key ingredient in mint tea is time. Well, time and mint, of
course, but it’s time that matters the most. Every Moroccan has
their own recipe for mint tea. But the one thing that each
fiercely individual routine has in common with the other is that
it should never, ever be rushed. In the desert, a single pot can take an hour
to perfect.
Here, in a small village in the Atlas Mountains, our guide Abdul begins
the ritual of pouring glasses and returning them to the pot, pouring and
returning, the tea leaves muddling with the fresh mint over and over again.
He will not be hurried. I am seated on a terrace draped in soft carpets
belonging to Hassan and Safida – and Abdelhaid, their boisterous three
year old – who opened up their home to us for a morning. A two-and-a-bit-
hour drive out of Marrakech, the Atlas Mountains are home to the Berber
tribe, who have lived in Morocco for thousands of years. It is beautiful up
here, bare and crisp, the mountains capped with snow, and there is that
sense of alertness which comes when you are really, really high. Everything
feels sharp and clear. It’s a stark contrast to the Marrakech we’ve just left
behind: teeming with life, quickening your pulse the second you step out
the door, hectic and thrilling.
This day trip to the Atlas Mountains comes midway through our
Abercrombie & Kent tour of the country, which begins in seaside
Casablanca – “Here’s looking at you, kid” – before crossing the country to
the densely turreted Fes, hopping over to the ochre-walled Marrakech and
ending back on Morocco’s coast in the sun-blistered resort destination
Oualidia. It’s an itinerary that takes in big cities and small towns, buzzy
medinas and blissful spas, food and wine, markets and museums, and all
of the history – and modernity – that makes Morocco so alluring. If you
have never journeyed to the North African nation before, an eight-day trip
barely scratches the surface of everything Morocco has to offer. But, as is
so often the case with travel, you’ll just have to come back.
Abdul pours the final glass; the tea is ready. It’s strong – tangy from the
green leaves, fresh from the mint, and sweet from the big chunk of sugar
that has been dunked into the pot. It’s good. “Saha,” Abdul exclaims,
raising his glass towards me. “Cheers.” ➤
Clockwise from
left: the fish
markets in the
Fes medina;
a typical
Moroccan spread
includes zaalouk,
an eggplant and
tomato dish;
a tiled doorway in
Fes. Opposite: the
rooftops of Fes.
The heat in Morocco sticks to your bones, like breakfast. But then we turn a corner and the
a tagine. It’s February and allegedly winter when medina comes alive: the burning heat of the public
I land in Casablanca, but I’ve come from London, ovens, where you can bring a disc of flatbread from
where February really is winter: grey and grim, home and bake it for a few coins, the sizzle of meat
deep in the grip of a never-ending rain cloud. frying in cast-iron pans, stalls with spices piled
Casablanca, by contrast, is creamy and exquisite perilously high like a pyramid, including ras el
and every street sounds like the sea. hanout, the famous Moroccan mix, an 11-secret-
Breakfast is a plate of baghrir, the poetically herbs-and-spices-esque blend unique to every
named pancakes of a thousand holes, like a slim, stallholder. Round another corner and the streets
flattened crumpet fashioned from semolina flour. are empty again, the air fragrant and still.
Doused in amlou – a paste of honey, almonds Fes is a study in contrasts: ancient and modern,
and argan oil – and washed down with a thick, frantic and serene. And spicy and sweet, as I learn
syrupy cup of Moroccan coffee, they are addictive. at a cooking class held on the rooftop of the Palais
Moroccan coffee has much in common with the Amani, a mosaic-riddled riad in the heart of the
indelible Turkish variety. “When my mother was medina. It’s dusk and the light on the terrace is
making coffee, I could smell it in the street,” jokes warmed over and coppery, like a spoonful of
Mohammed, our guide for the week. amlou. The Moroccan cuisine is “toujours le
From Casablanca, we make our way inland to saveur,” declares Abdul, our teacher for the
Fes. It’s even warmer here, closer to Morocco’s evening, dressed in pristine chef whites and,
desert heartland. The rush of ocean air feels like appropriately, a jaunty red fez.
a distant memory; Fes is dried out and toasted. I am making tagine – what else? – and zaalouk,
At 10 o’clock in the morning, we walk through a Moroccan entrée of smoked eggplant and spiced
the entrance to Fes’ thousand-year-old medina, tomatoes, which is described as a salad but is
a snaking maze of more than 9000 alleys served with wedges of flatbread still warm from
containing countless market stalls, 300 mosques, the grill. Zaalouk is simple and moreish: grated
a historic synagogue and the world’s oldest tomato thrown into a pan with cumin, paprika
university. It is silent. A motorbike chugs past, and quite a lot of garlic, then mashed with the
huffing and puffing as it trundles along. A few eggplant. And the tagine is just as good, an unfussy
kids with fistfuls of coins are buying baghrir for recipe of chicken, seared in a pan with an onion, ➤
turmeric, ginger, saffron, preserved lemon, parsley, coriander and
green olives. The chicken cooks in the marinade, and then the
whole thing cooks in that famous tapered clay pot, which traps all
the flavour inside like a reverse cycle air-conditioner. The result is
a cheerful yellow stew studded with green olives, like little jewels,
where spice is applied for taste, not heat. For dessert, we experiment
with a delicate jawhara, layers of crisp filo pastry filled with orange-
blossom custard and dusted with cinnamon. Abdul hands out
bottles of ice-cold Casablanca Lager. When I place my tagine into
the oven, the call to prayer begins to echo over the rooftops, rippling
through the city.
Morocco does a roaring trade in rooftops. Every riad in Fes and
Marrakech seems to have one, done up with canvas pagodas and
very thirsty ferns. A few days later, I sit on the rooftop at El Fenn,
one of the city’s buzziest hotels, drinking a mojito on a sofa the
colour of saffron. El Fenn is a scene. Every corner is styled like an
Instagram flatlay, the music ripped from a Mykonos beach club.
Madonna hired out the whole hotel in 2018 for her 60th birthday;
Gwen Stefani and Gwyneth Paltrow have both checked in. The
hotel, co-owned by Vanessa Branson – sister to Sir Richard Branson,
whose own palatial pile Kasbah Tamadot is a luxurious retreat
nestled high in the Atlas Mountains – is a reminder of Morocco’s
enduring allure for creative types. Marrakech is where Yves Saint
Laurent made a permanent base, out of the azure-blue homestead
known as the Majorelle Garden, which today is open to the public
with an adjoining Yves Saint Laurent museum next door. Marrakech
remains a creative hub. Meriem Nour, a Central Saint Martins-
trained designer, is the owner of Hanout, an atelier for finely
tailored kaftans in the heart of the Marrakech medina. Just outside
is Plus61, an airy restaurant that looks like it belongs on the streets
of Surry Hills, which is apt, given chef Andrew Cibej is ex-121BC
and Berta. There are lamingtons on the dessert menu. ➤
Clockwise from left:
Moroccan tea and macarons
at La Mamounia Marrakech;
traditional tagine clay pots
at the medina; the mosaic
interior in the lobby of La
Sultana Marrakech.
El Fenn is a scene. Every corner is styled

like an Instagram flatlay, the music
ripped from a Mykonos beach club.
Madonna hired the hotel for her 6Oth.
Ancient medinas, buzzing
cities and, now, coastal
retreats. My journey ends
in Oualidia, a sleepy resort
outside of Marrakech.
Booking info
Abercrombie & Kent’s private
eight-day Mosaics & Medinas
tour starts from $8750 per
person, not including airfares.
abercrombiekent.com.au/
journeys/mosaics-medinas
Ancient medinas, buzzing cities and, now, coastal retreats.

My journey ends in Oualidia, a sleepy resort town three hours
Clockwise from left: La
outside of Marrakech. Oualidia is a brief bus ride from Essaouira,
Sultana Oualidia; a fresh
catch of crayfish at a more bustling seaside city famous for serving as the location
Oualidia; view of for several television shows and films you’ve definitely seen.
Oualidia’s saltwater (Essaouira is the real-life Astapor in season three of Games of
lagoon from La Sultana.
Thrones, aka the city where Daenerys went full dracarys.) Seagulls
provide a cacophonous soundtrack to a morning spent inside
these sandstone walls. Mohammed estimates almost 80 per cent
of Essaouirans make their living out on the ocean.
In Oualidia, it’s even more concentrated: this town of about
5800 people is the oyster capital of the nation. The coastal drive
to La Sultana Oualidia, a tranquil coastal retreat, is lined with
people selling their wares. Each oyster is as big as your fist and
farmers journey out into the curved lagoon every day to bring
them back for hungry punters. La Sultana is a true oasis: just
12 rooms, each decorated like a beach house in a Nancy Meyers
movie. There’s a first-rate spa offering the traditional Moroccan
hammam, where steam is used to cleanse your body, followed by
deep – and I mean deep – exfoliation. I leave feeling squeaky
clean. Later, I walk to the hotel’s restaurant, situated in a sunken
conservatory, for my last dinner. It’s a beautiful place to eat
seafood – fat crayfish on a bed of spiced couscous, crabs bigger
than their serving platters, legs dangling over the side – but also
a little otherworldly. At the door is a long jetty that leads to a
shack perched right out in the ocean. In high tide, it feels like
you’re walking on water to get there. This is La Sultana’s oyster
bar, a place to have a glass of something cold and a plate of a
dozen oysters; practically dinner in and of itself. I drink a glass
of Champagne. It’s 7.30pm and the sun is taking its time setting,
really putting on a show, and after a week in Morocco everything
feels revitalised and refreshed. Saha to that. ●
Big Al’s Deli
The City House Bolton’s Spicy Roberta’s

Chicken & Fish Alebrije Pizza
East Nashville Olive & Sinclair

Farmers’ Market Chocolate Co
Robert’s Western World
Lou
The Catbird Seat Arnold’s Country

Kitchen
N ASHV ILLE
Locust
WELCOME TO NASHVILLE
The food scene in Nashville is progressing
at an extraordinary rate. One of the things
I love most about the local culinary landscape
is how diverse it is. When visiting you can
experience everything from a meat and three
(a Tennessean restaurant with daily choices
of meat and a variety of sides) that will blow
your mind, to hot chicken that will blow your
head off, but in the best possible way. Then
there are multi-course modernist tasting
menus; plus everything in between.
W H E R E I E AT NOW
My favourite places to eat in Nashville right
now are Locust, Lou and The Catbird Seat.
These are all restaurants that are pretty small
and each has a very unique voice. These
restaurants aren’t afraid of taking chances
because all of us here know that the people
who live in Nashville are open-minded and
will support the craziest of ideas. Lou serves
sharing plates and natural wines. I always
order the crispy rice there. The Catbird Seat
is our go-to for celebrations. The format
A CHEF’S GUIDE TO... is an extended tasting menu full of daring
Nashville, USA
creativity. Locust has such a wild and unique
experience. You get to eat the best quality
fish from around the world while listening to
heavy metal pretty loud.
From honky-tonks to hot chicken, chef SL IC E S O F ITA LY

SEAN BROCK takes us on a hot and spicy
The place that I have been going to for years
is City House. I think it’s one of the best
tour of America’s Deep South. places to eat in America. We are so lucky to
have it here in Nashville. Native Tennessean
T
chef Tandy Wilson uses Southern products
he name Sean Brock is synonymous with the food of America’s
PHOTOGRAPHY GREG DUPREE.
almost exclusively but integrates them into

south. Raised in rural Virginia, Brock made his name in a cuisine that is essentially Italian. For
Charleston where he spent more than a decade exploring example, you can eat catfish but it will be
lowcountry cooking via renowned restaurants McCrady’s and cooked using a traditional Italian recipe. Right
Husk. Now based in Nashville, Tennessee, the James Beard-winning chef now I am obsessed with Neapolitan pizza.
and cookbook author continues to contribute to the southern cuisine The famous Roberta’s of Brooklyn opened
discussion via his venues Audrey, June, The Continental and Joyland. right down the street from me, and I have to
When he’s off-duty, this is where Brock likes to go. eat there at least once a week.
A chef ’s guide
ON E O F M Y FAVO U RI T E P L AC ES TH E B EST TAC O S

Robert’s Western World is a honky-tonk Alebrije is a mind-blowing pop-up
that’s located downtown on Broadway. concept and serves the best tacos you
It is one of my favourite places on Earth. will ever eat. You have to follow them on
It feels like you are going back in time Instagram to see where they are popping
and I just love watching everyone dance up next. They also just completed a food
and have a good time. Plus, it has an truck so that will be fun to chase around.
incredible bologna sandwich.
B EST O F TH E MARK ET
OLD-FAS HI O N E D N AS H V I L LE We do such a great job with cowpeas
CO M FO RT here in middle Tennessee. When they
The first place I take people to when in are freshly shelled, they are as special Clockwise from top left: the dining
room at Audrey; Appalachian beans at
Nashville is Arnold’s Country Kitchen. as truffles to me. You can find lots of
Audrey; Peruvian lima beans, peppers,
It’s an old-fashioned meat and three them for sale at the farmers’ markets. burrata and orange at Lou. Opposite:
that’s been around for decades and has They show up all over town and it’s so Robert’s Western World honky-tonk.
always been a gathering spot for locals. fun to see what each chef does with
The food is insane. It is so flavourful, them. I love the East Nashville Farmers’
and the hospitality is as good as it gets. Market. It’s on every Tuesday.
I like sending people to Big Al’s Deli,
another old-fashioned place that has LO CAL SNAC K S TO BRI NG H OM E
a daily changing menu of the best Everything that Olive & Sinclair creates
comfort food imaginable: from is so good. I always try to have its
biscuits ‘n’ gravy to pancakes. chocolate bars on hand, plus some salt
and vinegar caramels. ●
EAT HER E F I RST
Nashville is known for its hot chicken,
and for good reason. It’s so good and so
addictive. My favourite place to eat hot
chicken is called Bolton’s. Don’t sleep
on the “hot fish” either. We have to focus As told to Jessica Rigg for The
on keeping places like Bolton’s, Big Al’s, Local Tongue. For more chef’s
Arnolds and Prince’s Hot Chicken in guides from around the world,
business at all costs. These places are see thelocaltongue.com
the true soul of this city. Always eat at
these places before mine.
TREASURE
Afloat in Indonesia’s Maluku Islands, once known as the
Spice Islands, MAX ANDERSON consumes the archipelago’s
dark and storied past. And a few cocktails too.
HUNTING
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES.
P
eter Piper picked a peck of pickled peppers.. Europeans as flavours, preservatives and medicine.
Where’s the peck of pickled peppers Peter Piper Nutmeg, which was also mildly hallucinogenic,
picked? Twisting my tongue around grew on only a handful of islands in the Banda Sea.
a cocktail straw, I enjoy a hit of Negroni The Arabs and the Venetians ran the stuff
designed by Singapore mixologists, Proof & overland to the Mediterranean before the
Company. There’s a book butterflied on my Portuguese mariners plied a sea route to the East
king-sized daybed, and I can hear anchor chains Indies. Then, in the 1600s, the Dutch seized
rumbling out into turquoise waters. control under the flag of the Dutch East India
Luxury cruise vessel Aqua Blu has moored off Company, the mighty VOC. A pound of nutmeg
an active volcano looming out of the Banda Sea. acquired for a fraction of a penny was sold in
Like a thing from The Lost World, the 600-metre London for 90 shillings, or about eight months’
volcano is robed with thick jungle and wears wages. So lucrative was the trade that it bankrolled
a necklace of yellow sulphur at its throat. In an Dutch expansionism and built an empire.
hour, we will tender out to its green flanks and Since boarding Aqua Blu in Maumere east
climb to the village of Waru, a cluster of crude huts of Komodo, I’ve been in no doubt this luxury
and a tin-roofed church. expedition cruise is also the preserve of
This is the island of Serua, a far-flung outcrop the privileged.
that is but a single grain in seas salted with more Eleven couples have paid close to $22,000 each
than a thousand Spice Islands. The region of for seven days. Among them is a retired executive
north-eastern Indonesia is more correctly (if less of Dreamworks, a consultant to orthodontists and
evocatively) known as Maluku, but it still feels a swashbuckling young tech millionaire. (“Y’know
distinctly edge-of-the-world. Looking at the volcano those pages of terms and conditions when you
over the rim of my cocktail glass, I’m shocked to download an app?” grins the latter. “Well,
think that the village of Waru has never been when you click ‘I agree’, I’m the f***er who takes
visited by foreigners. all your data.”)
At least, not recently. Appearance-wise, Aqua Blu is a curious beast.
For 700 years, the Spice Islands were the source Her upper decks have the smooth, rakish lines of
of nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon, prized by a cruiser, but her doughty hull and four stalwart
Cross turned to ancient spice
routes for inspiration, tying
together cuisines from
Morocco, India and Indonesia.
engines are strictly British Royal Navy – a legacy

from 1968 when she was HMS Beagle doing
research in the Persian Gulf. But she’s brilliantly fit
for purpose, shallow enough to get us close to
remote islands, strong enough to ply Indonesia’s
fearsome currents and big enough to afford space
for 30 guests catered to by 25 crew.
The largest of her 15 suites is 34 square metres,
and all have ensuite showers with the drenching
power you’d enjoy in a Hyatt. Books and antiques
from the region hint at expedition, while the glossy
shagpile carpet, the blonde maple-veneer closets
and the Aqua Blu scent branding (opium,
sandalwood, black tea) speak to luxe.
In the lounge areas, it’s distinctly “millionaire
casual” – think bare feet and chill-out music on
Bose speakers – which is very much the style of
founder and CEO of Aqua Expeditions, Francesco
Galli Zugaro. In his late 40s, Zugaro is along for
the inaugural cruise, he has panache to spare, not
Clockwise from
to mention an Italian baronetcy.
top: Aqua Blu Keen to avoid “cruise food”, he commissioned
consulting chef Australian chef Ben Cross (an alumnus of
Ben Cross adds Rockpool and creator of Balinese restaurant,
a finishing touch
to a dish; the Mason) to design a menu of restaurant-quality food
salon area on that reflected the Spice Islands. Cross turned to
Aqua Blu; the ancient spice routes for inspiration, tying
peanut butter
together cuisines from countries as disparate as
parfait. Opposite:
luxury cruising Morocco, India and Indonesia.
on Aqua Blu. Acting executive chef Adrian Broadhead ducks
between freezer, kitchen and prep room, spread
over three decks and connected by narrow stairs
designed for British sailors to exercise. “I worked
with Ben on the planning,” he says, showing me
the micromanaged freezer deep in the hull. “Just
the provisioning alone was insane.” He withdraws
two marked packages: “Beef rendang – slow-cooked
PHOTOGRAPHY KEN KOCHEY.
in sous vide for 48 hours. Braised oxtail – three

days of cooking.”
Lunch offers casual, often fun, self-serve spreads
in the bar, light on the carbs but lavish on the
choice (a lively poke bowl features lightly cured raw
tuna, white poached chicken and Cross’s own ➤
kimchi). But under starlight on the rear deck, the
dinner dishes are suitably stellar: grouper fillet in
a shaoxing broth delicately flavoured with ginger and
shallot; charred chermoula tuna; Moroccan spiced
chicken. Each night, we travel anew.
“In a way, what we’re doing is more sophisticated
than a restaurant,” says Broadhead. “We’ve got around
100 recipes for seven nights and nothing’s repeated.”
He adds that each day’s menu is planned to
accommodate a “see-saw of relaxation and adventure”.
“If guests are sailing between islands, then the protein
Clockwise from
consumption is lowered. If they’re diving or exploring top: sop buntut
an island, the calorie need goes up and the menu caters with oxtail and
to that.” dashi broth,
charred onion
On most days, we wake to deserted islands and dive and tomato; giant
on nameless reefs. Papuan prawns;
I spend happy hours listening to my breathing on board Aqua
getting slower and slower as I lose myself among coral Blu; nutmeg
plantation.
landscapes of feathers, trees and antlers. Small, Opposite:
dream-like shows play out – an octopus opening its snorkelling off
elastic, eight-armed shroud, baby clownfish peeking Aqua Blu.
from soft noodles of anemone, lobsters waving their
antennae. When we re-board, salty and tingling, we
make a surreal transition, welcomed with platters of
pressed juices and the sounds of Café del Mar.
If diving leaves me glowing, nothing is quite as
luminous as the history of these islands.
Landing on Banda Neira, I discover a living fable.
It’s a place of rusted roofs, fortified bastions and 17th
century Dutch architecture, faded mansions of white
gables, curlicue lamps and louvred windows.
Banda’s huge nutmeg plantations made this the
Saudi oilfields of its day. Among the steamy streets of
PHOTOGRAPHY EDWIN AGCAOILI & KEN KOCHEY.
old cobbles and abandoned canons, I learn how Serua. Francesco leads us onto a tiny beach to
the Dutch would stop at nothing to protect their meet the chief of Waru village. Francesco is tall
monopoly. In the dusty Rumah Budaya museum, and immaculate in polo shirt, the chief is short
a painting depicts Banda natives being and stained at the mouth with betel. Through
dismembered by samurai swordsmen. In 1621, the interpreters, the chief tells us he’s proud to receive
VOC accused island chiefs of selling nutmeg to the first boat to his village – then prays to his
foreign powers; 1600 troops and 100 Japanese ancestors, asking they admit us.
mercenaries would steadily reduce 13,000 islanders We mount hundreds of steps hacked out of
to 1000. The workforce was replaced with slaves the jungle, dripping fat drops of Tarzan sweat
from Bali and Sulawesi. before emerging at the church with the tin roof.
When the Brits secured nutmeg plantations on It’s dark inside – the village has no electricity – but
a neighbouring island called Run, the Hollanders a little cooler.
resorted to diplomacy to remove the threat. In I ask the chief – are spices still grown on Serua?
1667 they persuaded Britain to surrender their He produces a thin plastic bag and withdraws
island in exchange for a redundant bit of Dutch a handful of nutmegs. Stripped of their green
property off the American coast. To ensure their cases, they’re round, hard and rather beautiful,
nutmeg monopoly, the Dutch signed away territory capped with a red waxy substance called mace.
that would one day be called Manhattan. “How much do you sell this for?” I ask.
But I’m left with a question. Where is the peck He says the equivalent of $5 per kilo. The
of pickled peppers Peter Piper picked? meagre monies are sent to an island 24 hours away
Fortified by my Negroni and slathered in by boat, where the island’s womenfolk live,
sunblock, I’m boated across to the volcano on overseeing their children who attend school. ➤
Stripped of their green cases, they’re round, hard and rather

beautiful, capped with a red waxy substance called mace.
Within 50 years, the VOC’s monopoly was broken, spice prices
collapsed and Dutch hegemony was over.
The village is populated solely by men. The Seychelles and the Grenadines, where they
women only return, we’re told, when it’s time would flourish and fruit.
to make babies. Pierre is French for Peter, Poivre is French
Standing in the little church, I find myself for pepper. After Peter Piper picked a peck, the
astonished by the physical and emotional treasures of the Spice Islands were no longer the
isolation on Serua – and that such isolation preserve of the Dutch. Within 50 years, the VOC’s
exists in the 21st century. monopoly was broken, spice prices collapsed and
But it was just this sort of isolation that Dutch hegemony was over.
enabled a French missionary named Pierre When I leave Waru, I take one of the nutmegs
Poivre to surreptitiously move into the Spice back to Aqua Blu. It sits in my fragrant cabin
Islands undetected by the Dutch. In 1657, Poivre aboard the luxury vessel, a symbol that fortunes
used local intelligence to land on an outcrop like must ebb and flow, that sturdy empires can be
Serua to collect seedlings of nutmeg. Those felled by a seedling.
seedlings were transplanted to Mauritius, A kernel of truth in a $22,000 suite. ●
How to
book
Seven- and 12-night

cruises on Aqua Blu
through the Maluku
Islands are available for
late 2022, starting from
$10,925. Abercrombie &
Kent offers a 12-night
cruise aboard Aqua Blu
PHOTOGRAPHY KEN KOCHEY.
from Bali to Lombok for

$15,045. This includes
four days touring Bali,
staying at the Nirjhara
Clockwise from top: grilled resort north of Tanah Lot
barramundi; outdoor dining and Four Seasons Resort
on board Aqua Blu; a skiff Bali at Sayan near Ubud.
excursion. Opposite: Fort aquaexpeditions.com;
Belgica in Banda Neira. abercrombiekent.com.au
CHECKING IN
Ovolo South Yarra, Melbourne

We take the guesswork out of local travel with our tips on where
to stay, eat, drink and play. This month, GT hits Melbourne.
Melbourne,
VIC
Quick
look
As Melbourne’s CBD returns to its international best, a stay away from the bustling city centre may Where
beckon. Just five kilometres south-east, via the Royal Botanic Gardens, you’ll find a taste of the 234 Toorak Rd,
Melburnian luxe life in South Yarra. Food, design, art and culture all intersect in the chic and cheerful South Yarra, Vic
streets of Toorak Road and Chapel Street. And thumping away at the epicentre is Ovolo South Yarra, Facilities
a recent addition, which has settled in to the area nicely. In true Ovolo fashion, the hotel dials up the Prices from $191 per
design to 11, with collaborators Luchetti Krelle calling on ’70s rock gods and Studio 54’s disco queens night for a Go Go
as their muses. In the lobby, this retrofuturistic mood centres around the neon fireplace. Then there’s Snug queen room.
the bar, which comes alive at “social hour” when guests drink free, and on-site restaurant Lona Misa Gym Yes
by Melbourne chefs Shannon Martinez from Smith & Daughters and Ian Curley from Kirk’s Wine bar. Hotel bar Yes
Ovolo has cleverly kept the vibe young and free by offering 15-square-metre micro-hotel rooms Restaurant Yes
S T A Y
aimed at today’s digital nomads who prize social space over sleeping space. For the rest of us, there Room service Yes
are larger options including four 44-square-metre Rock Star Suites, fitted with deep baths and record Concierge 24-hour
players. In all rooms, there are all-inclusive minibars and freebies to snack on – that’s if South Yarra Free Wifi Yes
hasn’t already satiated your hunger. ovolohotels.com
Checking in
T R I P
Continue south-east for another 90 minutes and you’ll
hit Mornington Peninsula. As Samantha Payne shares
on page 36, the region is a hub for pinot gris (and
pinot noir). Also deserving a place on your Peninsula
agenda is a dip at Peninsula Hot Springs and a meal
D A Y
at 10 Minutes by Tractor. We are also
hotly anticipating the reopening of Laura at
Pt Leo Estate after a recent fire.
Clockwise from
left: crab,
togarashi crème
fraîche croustade
at Ten Minutes by
Tractor; Omnia
chef Stephen
Nairn; Lona Misa’s
dining room; the
grounds at Pt Leo
Estate. Opposite:
inside Ovolo
South Yarra’s
30-square-metre
Groovy Suite.
W A N D E R
A visit to Prahran Market is like a crash course in epicurean Melbourne
life; once you’ve strolled the stalls, with a Market Lane filter coffee in
one hand and a Maker & Monger grilled cheese toastie in the other,
you can call yourself an honorary local. The market is open everyday
except Monday and Wednesday.
WORDS ANNA MCCOE. PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MORGAN (OMNIA).
Breakfast Lunch Dinner

It’s hard to go past Ovolo’s With exquisite interiors and all-day It’s at dinner time when you’ll start to
complimentary breakfast, but if you dining, Abacus Bar & Kitchen is seriously consider extending your stay.
save space for a second round pure South Yarra bliss, with a focus The clever plant-based Latin menu at
outside the hotel, you’ll find you’re in on local Victorian produce. Think Lona Misa deserves pole position on
a brunch promised land. Rustica is fresh Mornington figs, beef from your Melbourne eating agenda. Expect
the go-to for sourdough and Bloody Gippsland and lamb from Geelong. crunchy croquettes and coal-grilled
Marys. Then there’s Darling Café For the ultimate afternoon oyster mushrooms that will impress
from the group that brought us Top indulgence, head to Yugen Tea Bar carnivores and vegans alike. Nearby,
Paddock and Kettle Black. Tivoli for a masterclass in fresh brews, Omnia is a neighbourhood bistro from
Road Bakery (formerly Frank guided by their resident tea Stephen Nairn, which is raising the bar.
Camorra’s MoVida Bakery) does all sommelier. Tea-inspired cocktails Also within stumbling distance (you’re
things baked with panache and and sake are also on the menu, going to need a walk) is Scott Pickett’s
Ned’s Bake, which is just down the alongside some of the most fire-focused restaurant Matilda and the
E A T
road from Ovolo, offers impressive delicate and decadent pastries classic French bistro France-Soir, which
pizzette and just-baked croissants. to be found in Australia. serves perfect steak frites until late.
A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n
Gourmet shopping
They’re the flavours of the month, so put these items at the top of your wish list.
1 2 3
Simon Johnson With flavour-packed Misty View’s gorgeous and classy deco Harvey Norman Each ILVE cooker is
El Navarrico soups and vegetables, cottages offer exclusivity, privacy and hand-built by ILVE’s assembly technicians,
you can enjoy the authentic taste of the unique vistas. They are the pride of ensuring quality construction. Solid brass
Navarran orchard at your table this winter. Montville as the premier couples’ retreat burners with non-stick coating, soft-close
Available at Simon Johnson stores and destination on the Sunshine Coast doors and precision thermostatic control
online. simonjohnson.com hinterland. mistyview.com.au set this cooker apart. harveynorman.com.au
4 5 6
Liebherr’s most innovative solution yet, Zest Byron Bay have been blending Mount Pleasant Wines The 2019 Maurice
Hydrobreeze, delivers a fine mist over gluten-free, vegan-friendly flavours in O’Shea is unmistakably Hunter Valley.
fresh produce each time the door is the hills of Byron Bay for over 14 years. Medium bodied with fruit to the fore and a
opened, providing long-lasting freshness. These flavour bombs are perfectly sophisticated palate, it’s brilliantly balanced
Available in the new range of Liebherr balanced for quick, easy meals or fancy with cellaring potential beyond 50 years.
integrated appliances. home.liebherr.com.au feasts. RRP $8.95, zestbyronbay.com.au RRP $275, mountpleasantwines.com.au
7 8 9
Waterford Crystal With artistry that Zebrano Wear something that makes Spicecraft Gourmet Cooking Kits Warm
breathes new life into an icon, the Waterford your heart sing. Zebrano’s range includes up this winter with delicious Indian meals
Lismore Arcus Tumbler Pair showcases all-embracing styles for all fashion palates made from scratch. Cook with finest quality
crystal-cut patterning inspired by unseen in sizes from 14 to 24. Find easy, classy, ingredients and traditional recipes loaded
opulent interiors of Ireland’s Lismore Castle. comfortable staples that are always in with flavour. Australian made. No nasties.
RRP $299, waterfordcrystal.com.au fashion. zebrano.com.au RRP $30, spicecraft.com.au
Gourmet Traveller Marketplace
ACCOMMODATION, FOOD & CLOTHING
Peace, Seclusion
and Lake Views
ON MISSION BEACH
await you in our
luxurious cottages
With only four cosy cottages
nestled amongst 20 acres
of gardens and rainforest,
your privacy is assured.
Pandanus, sunbirds and sand -

beautiful accommodation in a lovely
To book, go direct to our beachfront setting under the coconut
website mistyview.com.au trees fringing the Coral Sea.
or call 07 5442 9522.
mistyviewcottages [email protected]
www.sejala.com.au
Stay IN LUXURIOUS COMFORT

AND UNIQUE STYLE
02 5317 8200 • [email protected]

62 Byng Street Orange NSW
W W W. B Y N G S T R E E T H O T E L . C O M . A U
Our
Tomato Soup
is made
with organic
tomatoes by
Monjardin
Organic bottled
straight from
the source,
from the
Beechworth Wine Region Navarra
region in Spain.
WINE . GIN . EAT . STAY
Visit us Visit us in-store at

www.glenbosch.com.au Woollahra, Northbridge, Alexandria, (NSW)
Toorak (VIC) or Subiaco (WA)
or shop online at www.simonjohnson.com
TO ADVERTISE 0405 745 129 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

ACCOMMODATION, FOOD & ART
Boutique Bed & Breakfast with

elegant en suite rooms in charming
seaside Akaroa, New Zealand’s
only French village. Wake up to a
breakfast of delicious locally
sourced and homemade produce.
FRENCHBAYHOUSE.CO.NZ
[email protected]
Gold.
The Mornington Peninsula
A place where tranquility www.atasteofparis.com.au

meets modern beauty.
Luxury Holiday Homes, Apartments and Villas Melbourne’s No 1
Creating exceptional holidays for more than 25 years foodie destination.
BOOK DIRECT for BEST PRICE
SUPPORTING AN AUSTRALIAN BUSINESS
georgesonarthurs.com.au Enjoy an exclusive 20% GT discount.
executiveretreats.com.au [email protected] (use code GT20 at check out.
776 Arthurs Seat Rd, Arthurs Seat, Vic Offer ends 31.07.2022)
AM 20048/22
Irene Namok
Monsoon sweep through
rainforest 2022
Acrylic on linen
110 x 85cm

ACCOMMODATION & FOOD
bringing greece home
FINE ITALIAN WINE DIRECT

FROM THE IMPORTER
Ente r th e c o d e G T t o re c e i ve 10 % o f f y o u r o rd e r visit us online @
thegreekprovidore.com.au
chentannos.com.au We ship Australia wide
With Italy opening up again, it’s time to get your boots on and hit the trails
exploring some Italy’s most magical destinations such as the mountains
of central Sicily, the Gargano Peninsula in northern Puglia, hills and
villages of Chianti, the vineyards of Alba and, of course, the wonderful
Amalfi Coast. The recent, pandemic induced, downtime has given us time
to review all twenty of our self-guided itineraries, as well as develop our
exclusive Hidden Italy walking app. For full details of our fully-supported,
pack-free walks go to our our website (details below).
www.hiddenitaly.com.au

STYLE
HOME . FASHION . BEAUTY
East of Eden
Old-world interiors,
what to wear, winter skin
and scents and tools for
a spice-driven kitchen.
PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING EMMALY STEWART.
Home
SPICE BAZAAR
3
Look to the colours and forms of the Ottoman

Empire to heat things up in the kitchen. 10
7
PHOTOGRAPHY STEPHANIE ROONEY (KITCHEN).
5 8
1 Hex pendant light, $209, Freedom. 2 Harlequin vessel, $395, Greenhouse Interiors. 3 Tom Dixon Swirl table, 9
$3300, Living Edge. 4 Gimme Store Peachy candle, $41, HardToFind. 5 Resin Seed bowl, $320, Dinosaur Designs.
6 Breville the Bakery Chef Hub stand mixer, $499, Harvey Norman. 7 Aalto Vase 16cm in Ultramarine Blue, $299,
Iittala. 8 Sora porcelain tiles in Caramel, $149 per square mere, Perini. 9 Stool, $6205, Hermés. 10 Amber Wave
coupe glasses, $119 for two, Fazeek. ABOVE A kitchen styled by Greenhouse Interiors.
Home
1 3
13
12
14
11 10
1 Sichuam ceiling light, from $150, Domo. 2 Wittmann Fledermaus dining chair, POA, Domo. 3 Ferm Living abstract rug, $411, Royal Design.
4 Herringbone cushion in Charcoal, $70, Aura Home. 5 Field robe, $159, Ferm Living. 6 Home Republic Henan succulent garden, from $40, Adairs.
7 Home Republic Winter stem, $17, Adairs. 8 Ferm Living Bevel extendable table, $6949, Surrounding. 9 Timaru baskets, $70 each, Adairs. 10 Kharl rug,
$300, Adairs. 11 Creo vase, $855, Coco Republic. 12 Ferm Living Agnes pedestal, $388, Royal Design. 13 Cane Arch mirror, $174, Freedom. 14 Until Eva
Solo Fireglobe log holder, $260, HardToFind. OPPOSITE PAGE Dining room by Ferm Living.
Home
SALT & PEPPER

A tonal take on bohemian style
doesn’t overpower. Just
balance light with dark and
sprinkle to taste.
ME
HO I
NS
P I R AT
IO
N
1
Style
15 2
4
14
Inspired
by
13
Amanjena,
Marrakech
Warm m up your wardrobe with hits of

chilli red
d, cumin green and golden ginger.
6
PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL HERENDI (AMANJENA). MERCHANDISING LAUREN DE SOUSA.

7
11
12
9
1 LV Get Dressed necklace, $1550, Louis
Vuitton. 2 Juliana linen crop top in Forest,
$180, Shona Joy. 3 Pleat skirt in True Red,
$379, Oroton. 4 Double buckle belt in Tan,
$375, Zimmermann. 5 Tortuga shirt dress in
Playa Rosa Stripe, $199, and Girona pants in
Playa Rosa Stripe, $209, Faithfull the Brand.
6 Nano Sac de Jour suede leather and
shearling bag, $3835, Saint Laurent by
Anthony Vaccarello. 7 Metal and Strass cuff,
$1430, Chanel. 8 Thalia tuxedo trousers in
Cumin, $280, Shona Joy. 9 Slouchy knee
10 boots, $1350, Zimmermann. 10 Serpenti
Diamond Blast crossbody bag, $3590,
Bvlgari. 11 Longines DolceVita watch,
$2025. 12 Nino Sepo flower shaped
earrings, $208, she.her. 13 Short check
dress, $479, Oroton. 14 Satin dress with
ruffles, $495, Maje. 15 Splittable cotton coat,
$1798, Tory Burch.
It’s a wrap
Draped, looped, tucked or tied, a statement
scarf transforms cold-weather dressing.
PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING & MERCHANDISING EMMALY STEWART.
Clockwise from above: Chevron Multico cashmere stole,

$2220, Hermès. Responsible cashmere scarf, $199, Country
Road. M.N.G Corfu scarf, $70, The Iconic. Casaque Chevron
muffler, $575, Hermès. Woods knit scarf, $129, Oroton.
Unisex fringed woven wool scarf, $160, Scotch & Soda.
CALM OF WINTER
Your best cool-climate skin starts with a gentle cleanser.
L
1
ike food and fashion, good
skincare is seasonal. Just
when you might have a
routine sorted, the mercury
drops,
INTEL the heater cranks and what worked
E L
H for you in summer no longer applies.
IG
T
In the season of comfort eating
ENT E
and cosy dressing, the skin’s
D outermost layer, the stratum corneum
2
8 IT (or skin barrier) needs nurturing too.
That’s because dry air breaks down
this protective system to cause
flakiness, irritation and even more
water to evaporate from deep within.
The answer lies in hydration, which
informs every stage of the winter skin
WORDS ANNA McCOOE. PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING OLIVIA BLACKMORE. MERCHANDISING HANNAH BLACKMORE.
routine starting from step one: cleansing.
3
Winter skin needs a cleanser that
will cut through makeup and
pollution so serums and moisturisers
can work their magic, but it also
requires a strip-free clean.
7 The sweet spot removes impurities
and leaves protective oils in place
without rubbing, tugging or relying on
4 too much hot water. Verso Cleansing
Balm, $60 (5), does excatly that so
does Rationale #4 The PreCleanse
Balm, $120 (8).
And while detergents are out for
the season, calming ingredients are in.
6
5 Try Dr Naomi Gently Gently Balancing
Cleanser, $49 (2), with anti-inflamatory
hero niacinamide. It won’t leave skin
squeakly clean but it will feel cared for.
P U R I F Y I N G O I L S S O O T H I N G B A L M S G E N T L E G E L S
Oil cleansers sound counterproductive A luxurious cleansing balm such as For those with oily skin, or an addiction to
but since oil attracts oil they have a way Alpha-H’s Melting Moment, $60 (3) or clean slates, not all foam cleansers are off
of swiping away makeup, grime and Mecca’s Mecca-Morphosis Purifying the menu for winter. Habitual Beauty’s
excess sebum without leaving skin Cleansing Balm, $46 (4) elevates the act gel-to-foam Balancing Cleanser, $70 (6),
feeling tight. Just stear clear of mineral of face cleaning. Massage these silky for example, soothes as it exfoliates
oils to avoid a greasy aftermath. Try Tatcha formulas over dry skin then rinse with while Ultraceuticals Ultra Brightening
The Camellia Cleansing Oil, $75 (1). lukewarm water to melt away everything Foaming Cleanser, $73 (7), restores
you don’t want on your skin. with niacinamide.
Beauty
Deep
2
heat
Delight with these heady fragrances
laced with earthy notes of nutmeg,
saffron, amber and musk.
1
1 A botanical bomb featuring juniper, nutmeg, coriander, musk, amber and vanilla. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity EDP, $280, Mecca.
2 Smoky and smouldering. Ormaie Paris Marque-Page EDP, $455, Libertine Parfumerie. 3 This earthy scent casts a spell with warming nutmeg and
rare Morrocan orris absolute. Vyrao Witchy Woo EDP, $277, Mecca. 4 An open fire in a bottle. Sśaint Smokeshow EDP, from $109, Sśaint.
5 A woody scent spiked with saffron, cardamom and bourbon. Ellis Brooklyn Après EDP, $157, Mecca. 6 This natural fragrance captivates the
senses with heady hibiscus, rose and cinnamon. Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajád extrait de parfum, $349, Libertine Parfumerie. 7 Escape to Oman
with a few drops of this luxurious, musky floral oil. Amouage Orris Wakan perfume oil, $759, Libertine Parfumerie.
Objects of desire
Burn, baby, burn

Indulge in the calming ritual of
incense burning and find your inner
zen with these stylish tools.
PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING AND MERCHANDISING EMMALY STEWART.
Clockwise from above left: Sphere incense burner in Travertine, $330, Addition Studio. The Bubble in Amber, $59, Maison Balzac. Drop incense
holder in Brass, $30, Dinosaur Designs. Incense in Citrus Grove, $45, Corey Ashford. Neue Void incense burner in Picasso White Marble, $300,
Addition Studio. Oyster incense holder, $80, Corey Ashford. The Marble Hand incense holder, $129, Maison Balzac.
ON SALE NOW
chanel.com
SOME ENCOUNTERS YOU WEAR FOREVER.

RINGS, EARRINGS AND NECKLACE IN BEIGE GOLD, WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS.

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2022-07-01 Australian Gourmet Traveller Docutr Com

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As innovative as it is intuitive: the Mercedes-Benz

MBUX Hyperscreen with artificial intelligence.

Chermoula lamb ribs fatteh...85

PHOTOGRAPHY ELISE HASSEY.

Regulars 73 HOT HISTORY

Marketing, Research & Circulation

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Exclusive Kimberley Small Group 4WD Adventures

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July luggage Jaraman half-bottles

Maison Balzac The Tasman, Hobart

T bringing a touch of French ﬂair Hobart’s grandest new hotel,

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NADIA BAILEY HELLY RAICHURA ELISE HASSEY

Shangri-La Yanuca Island, Fiji

Ori’s Bar, Bondi

Edited by JORDAN KRETCHMER

Chefs pick their favourite spicy dishes, a hot

Over the bridge chef Sam Young

Annita Potter (Viand, Sydney)

Chef Rini uses lemongrass, galangal and chillis from her

Sydney’s Feather and Bone Providore has opened

table sauces to add more spice.”) followed by phase

No 92, 92 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe, NSW, no92gpr.com.au

For more information visit

Clockwise from top right: Grand Lobby;

PHOTOGRAPHY YIANNI ASPRADAKIS.

Interview HANNAH-ROSE YEE

The taste of home for me is very simple North Indian

The Twelve screens on Foxtel and Foxtel Now.

Bitter oranges are at their

I was first inspired by

REMEDY & SPICE

WORDS JORDAN KRETCHMER. PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING EMMALY STEWART.

$29 for 110gm

Mount Pleasant. Created by a legend.

part to the variety itself being so consistent to work with.

2020 Scorpo Pinot Grigio Tradizionale, $45

Jacoby’s Trinidad Sour

T R I NIDA D SO U R coupe. Orgeat is a sweet almond syrup ﬂavoured with

WORDS MATTY HIRSCH. PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING EMMALY STEWART.

Rittenhouse 100 Proof Michter’s US1 Single The Gospel

unapologetically punchy whiskey in the heavily using single-sourced rye

UPCOMING TOURS FROM BITE SIZE BREAKS TO EPIC EPICUREAN

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pa thong ko; chef

and galangal. Fermented coconut

Like the vitello-tonnato-esque wagyu

PA R L A R there’s an excellent steak and a couple

In among the exotic ingredients is

Aldinga, Vegan kimchi dumplings heave with

THE LITTLE RICKSH AW capsicum, Japanese brown rice

PHOTOGRAPHY DUY DASH.

24 Old Coach Rd,

The Little Rickshaw dining

Melbourne, Dennis Yong. leftover salmon pieces from The

From weeknight suppers to simple entertaining, these

Photography CHRIS COURT Styling STEVE PEARCE

Mixed seed and spice crêpes with roasted pumpkin

Southern-style pork with warm chow chow