Husqvarna/Viking Amber S 100 Sewing Machine Instruction Manual

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User’s Guide

KEEPING THE WORLD SEWING TM


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This household overlock machine is designed to comply with IEC/EN/CSA C22.2 No. 60335-1 & 60335-2-28 and UL1594.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS


Read all instructions before using this household overlock machine.
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed,
including the following:
Keep the instructions at a suitable place close to the machine. Make sure to hand them over if the
machine is given to a third party.
This appliance can be used by children aged from 13 years and above and persons with reduced
physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards
involved. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision. It is not
allowed for children up to and including 13 years to play with the machine. Children up to 13 years
are not allowed to use the machine.
WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock,
or injury to person:
• A overlock machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. The electrical socket, to
which the machine is plugged in, should be easily accessible. Always unplug this overlock machine
from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning, removing covers, lubricating
or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
• Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this overlock machine is used
by or near children.
• Use this overlock machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only
attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
• Never operate this overlock machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working
properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the overlock machine
to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical
adjustment.
• Never operate the overlock machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of
the overlock machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the overlock machine
needle.
• Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
• Do not use bent needles.
• Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
• Wear safety glasses.
• Switch the overlock machine off (“0”) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as
threading needle, changing needle, changing presser foot, etc.
• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
• Do not use outdoors.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administrated.
• To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“0”) position, then remove plug from outlet.
• Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
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• The foot control is used to operate the machine. Never place other objects on the foot control.
• Do not use the machine if it is wet.
• If the LED lamp is damaged or broken, it must be replaced by the manufacturer or its service
agent or a similarly qualified person, in order to avoid a hazard.
• If the cord connected with the foot control is damaged, it must be replaced by the manufacturer
or its service agent or a similarly qualified person, in order to avoid a hazard.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS


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TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. KNOWING YOUR MACHINE 6
Foot control 8
Power / light switch 8
Opening front cover 8
Opening work table 8
Preparation for threading  9
Thread guide pole 9
Spool discs and spool holders for cone spools 10
Spool nets 10
Waste tray 11
Intergated seam guide 11
Thread knife 11
Changing presser feet 11
Needle / Thread / Fabric Chart 12
12

2. GETTING READY TO SEW

Threading the machine 13


Trimming needle thread 16
Stitch Settings 18
Adjusting thread tensions 24
Basic techniques 28
Turning curved edges 28
Removing stitches from sewn fabric 28
Flatlocking using two threads or using three threads (flat seam)  30
Butted seams using two threads or using three threads (flat seam) 30
Pintucking using three threads 30
Making decorative braid using three threads 30
Differential feed applications 31

3. CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE 32

4. CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS 34


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SPECIFICATION OF MACHINE

MODEL Amber S|100

Number of threads 2, 3 or 4 threads

Overedge stitch width (Max.) 7 mm (left needle)

Needle Overlock Needle, Style 2022

Stitch length 1-5mm

Stitching speed Up to 1300 stitches per minute

Width: 320mm (12.6 inches)


Dimensions Length: 385mm (15.2 inches)
Height: 370mm (14.6 inches)

Weight 9 Kgs (20 Lbs)


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1. KNOWING YOUR MACHINE


Identification chart

9
10
1 11
2 12

3 13
17
14
4
15
5
16
6

7
18
8

21
28
22

23

24
25 29 30
19 20

27 26

1. Presser foot pressure regulator 16. Threading chart


2. Thread knife 17. Waste tray
3. Presser foot lever 18. Foot control
4. LED lamp 19. Release lever
5. Needle plate 20. Foot release lever
6. Presser foot 21. Spool disc
7. Overedge cutting width dial 22. Differential feed control dial
8. Working table 23. Stitch length dial
9. Thread guide pole 24. Hand wheel
10. Left needle thread tension control 25. Plug connector socket
11. Right needle thread tension control 26. Light and power switch
12. Upper looper thread tension control 27. Front cover
13. Lower looper thread tension control 28. Moving cutter
14. Needle thread guides 29. Lower looper
15. Two thread converter instruction 30. Upper looper

6 – KNOWING YOUR MACHINE


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Accessories

Parts listed are included with your machine.

1. Two-thread converter
2. Stitch finger (B) (Stitch finger
(A) is already on the ma-
chine upon delivery.)
3. Needles
4. Lint brush
5. Screwdriver (small)
6. Soft dust cover
7. Screwdriver (large)
8. Moving cutter
9. Tweezer
10. Wrench
11. Thread spool nets 1
12. Spool discs
13. Spool holders
14. Accessory bag 2

4 5

7 8

9 10 11

12
13 14

KNOWING YOUR MACHINE – 7


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Setting up your machine

1. Wipe off any excess oil in the needle plate


and bed areas.

2. FOOT CONTROL
Push foot control plug into connector socket,
and connect the power line plug into power
supply outlet.
Be aware that some appliances can be deliv- Connector
ered with a polarized plug (one blade wider
than the other). To reduce the risk of electric Socket
shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polar-
ized outlet only one way. If the plug does not
fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still Power/light switch
does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to
install the proper outlet. Do not modify the
plug in any way.

3. POWER/LIGHT SWITCH
Your machine will not operate unless the pow-
er/light switch is turned on. This same switch
controls both machine power and sewing light.
When leaving the machine unattended, or
servicing the machine, remove the power line
plug from supply outlet.

Working table
4. OPENING FRONT COVER
To open front cover, pull it to the right and
down towards you. Release lever
Front cover

5. OPENING WORKING TABLE


To open working table, pull the release lever
towards you with your right hand, and lift the
front of presser foot up with your left hand.

Note: The moving part at the front of the presser foot


is for protecting the fingers while sewing. Normally it
is down, but can be lifted momentarily to check cutting
status.

8 – KNOWING YOUR MACHINE


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Preparation for threading

Thread guide pole


Pull up thread guide pole to the highest point until you
hear it click. Thread guide pole
Place thread spools on pins and draw thread through
thread guides on the pole from back to front.
Thread guide
The thread guides of the pole can help hold thread
spools in place while the machine is not in use. Push
down on the pole, as illustrated below.

KNOWING YOUR MACHINE – 9


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Spool caps for domestic type


spools
Spool cap

Domestic thread spool

Cone type thread

Spool discs and spool holders for cone


spools
For large cone spools use the spool holders
with the wide end at the top, and for small
ones, use the same spool holders but with the
narrow end at the top.

Spool holder
Spool disc

Thread comes off the top


Spool nets
Polyester or bulky nylon threads may tend to
spill from the spool while unwinding. To keep
consistent feeding of such threads, utilize spool
net sleeving over the spool. Net

Net

Turn up

Spool Spool

10 – KNOWING YOUR MACHINE


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Waste tray
The waste tray can be attached to the machine, and it is
used to catch waste trimmings as you sew.
After completion of work, remove the waste tray.

Slots for attaching tray

Intergated seam guide


The integrated seam guide helps you sew straight,
whether sewing seams or edges. Fabric is placed along
the edge of the guide. The guide is adjustable and can
be set for desired seam allowance.

Thread knife
The thread knife is built in, toward the back side of the
face cover. Draw the thread chain toward the rear and
cut off excess threads with the thread knife, as shown.

Changing presser feet


Be sure needle is in the up position.
Raise presser foot lever. Foot release lever
1. Push foot release lever to remove the foot.
2. Place the desired foot on the needle plate aligning
needle holes.
3. Lower the presser foot lever and push foot release
lever so that the foot holder snaps on the foot.

KNOWING YOUR MACHINE – 11


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Changing the needle


Raise needle bar to its highest point by turning hand wheel towards Needle clamp screws
you, but leave presser foot down. Loosen needle clamp screw to re-
move the needle, and place new needle with flat side away from you,
into the needle bar as far as it will go, and tighten screw.

Flat side away from you

Fabric / Needle / Thread Chart


Your machine uses Style 2022 overlock needles. There are two Style 2022 needles, size 90/14, already inserted.
The additional needles in your included accessories are 3 more size 90/14 needles and 2 size 80/12 needles.

Light Fabric Medium Fabric Heavy Fabric Knits


(voile, crepe, georgette, etc.) (cotton, linen, chino, wool, satin, (denim, tweed, etc.) Stretch fabrics
etc.)
Needles Needles Needles Needles
Style 2022, size 80/12 Style 2022, size 80/12 Style 2022, size 90/14 Style 2022, size 80/12

Thread
Thread suitable for overlock machines

Synthetic threads are recommended for ordinary overlocking. Polyester thread, for example, is very useful for different types of
fabric.
NOTE: Keep in mind that the lower and upper loopers will use about twice the amount of thread as the needles. When purchasing thread for sewing,
therefore, especially if it is an special colour, you should buy sufficient for your requirements.

12 – KNOWING YOUR MACHINE


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2. GETTING READY TO SEW


Threading your machine Before re-threading the lower looper after a thread break,
Wrong threading may cause skipped stitches, breaking threads, remove thread from needle eye first, then re-thread the lower
or other problems. looper. This will prevent tangling.
Try to master the correct threading before moving on to test
sewing. Threading upper looper
1. Feed the thread through the thread guides as illustrated.
Threading must be carried out in the sequence of Upper Loop-
2. Pull the upper thread through the slot, holding the thread with
er - Lower Looper - Needle.
your left hand.
Open the front cover and the working table. 3. Draw the thread through the thread guide as illustrated.
Raise needle to its highest point by turning hand wheel towards 4. Pass the thread through wire thread guide and looper eye, leav-
you, and raise the presser foot. ing an excess length of about 4” (10 cm).

4
3

GETTING READY TO SEW – 13


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Threading lower looper

1. Feed the thread through the thread guide as illustrated.


2. Pull the lower thread through tension slot. Holding the thread with your left hand, pull down with right hand firmly.
3. Draw the thread through thread guides as illustrated.
4. Pass the thread through lower looper eye, and then place the thread over the upper looper. Make sure the thread is over the up-
per looper (not under it), or the machine will not sew. Leave about 4” (10cm) extra thread.

14 – GETTING READY TO SEW


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Threading needles

1. Feed the thread through the thread guide as illustrated.


2. Draw the needle threads through needle thread tension slots. Holding the thread with your left hand, pull down with
right hand firmly.
3. Draw the thread through the thread guides as illustrated.
4. Thread the needles from front to back through needle eye and pull the threads towards the back passing along the right
side of presser foot, leaving an extra length of about 4”(10cm).

3
4

GETTING READY TO SEW – 15


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Helpful hints
Replacing thread spools
When replacing thread spools, the following
steps may be helpful for quick changeover.
1. Cut off existing threads near the spools.
Tie the cut ends thread from new spools
as illustrated.
2. Raise presser foot.
3. Lower needle bar to its lowest position by turn-
ing hand wheel away from you. Carefully
pull the existing threads until the connect-
ing knots pass through needle eye and
looper eyes.

1 2 3

Trimming needle thread


Frayed thread may make needle threading diffi-
cult.
Draw the thread passing under the thread knife
and turn hand wheel towards you to obtain
clear cut end as illustrated.

16 – GETTING READY TO SEW


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Testing overlock stitches


Fig.1
After threading is completed, use a scrap of the
same fabric you are planning to sew on and test
sew following the instructions below.

1. With all threads under the presser foot, gently


pull all threads to the left, then lower the press-
er foot. Rotate the hand wheel towards you a
few times to see if the lock stitches are properly
formed.

2. Start the machine at low speed and feed in test


fabric under the presser foot by slightly pushing it
forward. (This can be done with the presser foot
down on most fabrics except bulky materials.)
Guide the fabric gently as machine automatically
feeds the fabric. Fig.2

3. Check thread tensions by test sewing on spare


fabric. (See page 17.)

4. At fabric end, carry on running machine at


low speed, gently pulling the fabric towards the
back, until about 5 to 6cm (2 to 2.5”) of extra lock
stitches are produced without fabric.

5. Cut thread by thread knife on face cover, or


with scissors.

Fig.3

GETTING READY TO SEW – 17


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STITCH SETTINGS
Combination Needle Cutting Stitch Number of Stitch 2-thread Tension
position width length threads finger converter
Stitch Left Right Upper Lower
Needle Needle looper looper
2-thread overlock,
wide

Left 6 2.5 2 A Yes 1 --- --- 7

2-thread overlock,
narrow

Right 6 2.5 2 B Yes --- 1 --- 8.5

2-Thread wrapped
edge overlock wide

Left 6 3.5 2 A Yes 4 --- --- 1

2-Thread wrapped
edge overlock narrow

Right 6 3 2 B Yes --- 4 --- 5

18 – GETTING READY TO SEW


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Combination Needle Cutting Stitch Number of Stitch 2-thread Tension


Stitch position width width threads finger converter Left Right Upper Lower
Needle Needle looper looper
2-thread rolled edge

Right 6 2 2 None Yes --- 5 --- 4

2-thread narrow edge

Right 4 2 2 None Yes --- 1 --- 8.5

2-thread flatlock stitch

Left 6 2.5 2 A Yes 1 --- --- 5.5

3-Thread picot stitch

Right 7 P 3 None No --- 4 3.5 5.5

GETTING READY TO SEW – 19


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Combination Needle Cutting Stitch Number Stitch 2-thread Tension


Stitch position width width of threads finger converter Left Right Upper Lower
Needle Needle looper looper
3-thread overlock stitch,
wide

Left 6 3 3 A No 4 --- 4 3.5

3-thread overlock stitch,


narrow

Right 6 3 3 B No --- 4 5 4

3-thread flatlock stitch,


narrow

Right 5 3 3 B No --- 0 4 9

3-thread stretch
overlock

Left &
6 P 3 A Yes 4 4 --- 2
Right

20 – GETTING READY TO SEW


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Combination Needle Cutting Stitch Number Stitch 2-thread Tension


Stitch position width width of threads finger converter Left Right Upper Lower
Needle Needle looper looper
3-thread rolled edge

Right 6 R 3 None No --- 4.5 3.5 4

3-thread narrow edge

Right 6 2 3 None No --- 4 4 0.5

3-thread flatlock stitch,


wide

Left 5 3 3 B No --- 0 3.5 9

4-thread overlock stitch

Left &
6 3 4 A No 4 4 4 4
Right

GETTING READY TO SEW – 21


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Three-thread overlock with one needle


By threading the LEFT needle only a width of 7mm will be produced and by threading the RIGHT needle only a width of 3.8mm
will be produced.

Converting to two-thread use


To convert to two thread use, first open the front cover and working table and raise needle to its highest point by turning hand
wheel towards you. When 2-thread sewing, only one needle is used, so place a needle in either the right or left position, depending
on the stitch you are planning to sew.

Place the unused needle back into the needle pack or into the accessory bag.

1. Pull out the converter as shown in Fig.1.


2. Attach the two-thread converter onto the upper looper as shown in Fig. 2, Fig.3.
3. When not using converter, insert it into its holder securly, as illustrated in Fig. 4.

Two-thread
overlock
converter
1

2
1
Upper Fig.3 2
looper
Fig.2

Fig.1
Fig.4

22 – GETTING READY TO SEW


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Narrow and rolled hem, picot stitch

Narrow and rolled edges are ideal for use on fine fabrics such as organza, lightweight cotton, silk, etc.
Also, the picot stitch can be used for edge finishing on fine fabrics such as sheers, rayon, voile, and more.
Due to the nature of these hems, they are not suitable for heavier weight fabrics.
1. Raise the presser foot.
2. Open the front cover and working table.
3. Remove the stitch finger from the needle plate by screw driver and place it securely in the front cover, as illustrated, or in the ac-
cessory bag.
4. Set the machine according to page 18.

NOTE: After finishing, reset the stitch finger in its place. Please ensure inserting it deep as illustrated in Fig 1. After removing the stitch finger
from the machine, insert it securely in its holder on machine inside cover, as illustrated in Fig. 1, or place it in the accessory bag.

Stitch finger
1 2

Cross section
Fig.1

Narrow hem Rolled hem Picot stitch

GETTING READY TO SEW – 23


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Adjusting thread tensions


Increase tension
Turning tension dial to a higher number gives a tighter thread tension. Turning ten-
sion dial to a lower number gives a looser thread tension.
Test each thread tension on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use.

Decrease tension
Two-thread use

Just right Fig.1 Lower looper thread Fig.2 Needle thread pulled Fig.3
pulled to underside to top side

Lower looper
thread Lower looper Lower looper
Needle thread thread
Needle Needle
Top side thread
thread thread
Top side Top side
Underside Underside Underside

Decrease needle thread tension Increase needle thread tension

Four-thread use

Just right Fig.1 Upper looper thread Fig.2 Lower looper thread Fig.3
pulled to top side pulled to top side
Upper looper thread
Upper looper thread Upper looper thread
Right needle thread
Right needle thread Right needle thread Lower
Lower looper
looper thread
thread
Left needle thread Left needle thread
Left needle thread Underside
Underside
Top side
Top side Underside Top side

Increase Upper looper thread tension Increase lower looper thread tension
and/or decrease lower looper tension and/or decrease upper looper tension

Left needle thread loose and visible on Fig.4 Right needle thread loose and visible Fig.5
under side of fabric. on under side of fabric.

Upper looper thread Upper looper thread


Lower looper
Lower looper Right needle thread
Right needle
thread thread thread

Left needle Left needle thread


thread Top side Underside Top side Underside

Increase left needle thread tension and/or


Increase right needle thread tension.
decrease either or both looper threads.

24 – GETTING READY TO SEW


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Adjusting stitch length Adjusting overedge cutting width


Turn the stitch length dial until the required length is Overedge cutting width can be adjusted from 4 to 7mm by
indicated. simply turning overedge cutting width dial according to the
type of fabric.
The higher the number, the longer the stitch. This dial can
adjust the stitch length from 1 to 5mm. It is set at standard width of 6mm when delivered from the
factory.
Turn it towards “5” if fabric edge puckers while sewing.
( Fig.1)
Turn it toward “7” if loops hang off the edge. (Fig.2)

Stitch length dial Overedge cutting


width dial

Fig.1 Fig.2 Fig.3 Fig.4

Stitch finger(B)

1 2

Cross section

Stitch finger (B)


Loops may hang off the edge, when you sew with lightweight fabric using 3 threads (right needle only), and setting cutting width
dial at 4-5(Fig. 3). In such a case change the stitch finger(A) to (B) to get neat stitching(Fig. 4).

GETTING READY TO SEW – 25


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Differential feed
The differential feed has two independent feed
teeth, one front (A) and one rear (B).
Each row of feed teeth has an individual feed
mechanism which enables the feeding of fabric at a
different ratio.

Differential feed teeth

Positive differential feed


When set for positive differential feed, the front
row of feed teeth (A) makes a longer stroke than
the rear row of feed teeth (B).
This has the effect of accumulating fabric under
the presser foot to offset the wavering on the fab-
ric, removing distortion.

Positive differential feed

Negative differential feed


When set for negative differential feed, the front
row of feed teeth (A) makes a shorter stroke than
the rear row of feed teeth (B).
This has the effect of stretching fabric under the
presser foot to offset the puckering on the fabric.

Negative differential feed

26 – GETTING READY TO SEW


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Setting differential feed


Set by simply turning the differential feed control dial in the direction desired referring to the chart below.
The adjustment can be made between 0.7 (negative effect) and 2 (positive effect). These settings give the best ratio of feeding.
For normal sewing, the dial should be set at 1.
The dial can be reset even while sewing.

EFFECT AND TYPE OF SETTING FEED RATIO Differential feed


APPLICATION FEEDING REAR: FRONT control dial

Waver-free Positive
seams, differential 1-2
Gathering feed

No differential
Neutral feed 1
feed

Negative
Pucker-free 0.7-1
differential
seams
feed

Presser foot pressure regulator


Increase
Presser foot pressure has been correctly set at the factory, so you do not
need to adjust it for most of ordinary sewing. If adjustment is necessary,
turn the presser foot pressure regulator to higher number to increase or to
lower number to decrease pressure.

Decrease

Sewing with extra heavyweight fabric or multiple


layers of fabric
A wide range of fabric can be overlocked on this machine, but it is recom-
mended to tighten screw as illustrated, when sewing with extra heavyweight
fabrics or multiple layers of fabric. Open working table for adjustment.
Loosen
Loosen the screw when sewing with light to normal weight fabric or turning
overedge cutting width dial, or otherwise fabric may not be well cut. Tighten
Screw
The machine is set for normal weight fabrics from the factory.

GETTING READY TO SEW – 27


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Basic techniques

1. When you reach the fabric edge, stop stitching with the nee-
dle above the fabric.
2. Raise the presser foot and gently pull on the thread chain just
enough to clear the stitch finger.
3. Turn the fabric, lower the presser foot and begin stitching in
the new direction. Fig. 1.
Fig.1
NOTE: When overlocking and trimming at the same time, cut the fab-
ric along the new stitching line for about 3cm, before turning the fabric.
Fig. 2.
Cut!

Turning curved edges


For inside curves, guide fabric gently with trimming line of
the fabric under the right front of the presser foot (or a little Fig.2
to the left), applying pressure at point A in the direction of
the arrow with your left hand, and at the same time applying
a little opposite pressure at point B with your right hand.
Fig.3.

For outside curves place under the presser foot in a similar


manner but applying the pressure in the opposite directions.
Fig. 4. A
A

B B

Fig.3 Fig.4

Removing stitches from sewn fabric


To remove stitches already sewn, snip off needle thread (s) at
intervals and pull out looper threads.

28 – GETTING READY TO SEW


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Corded overlock
Corded overlock can be used to strengthen shoulder, sleeve or
side seams especially when sewing stretch garments. As a deco-
rative feature you can use knitting yarn of contrasting colors to 1
further enhance your garment. Your machine is equipped with a
presser foot which has been designed to feed your cord or yarn to
the left of the safety stitch or to the right. Follow instructions as
follows:

1. Place a “filler” cord, such as a crochet cotton, gimp, wool,


knitting yarn, or shirring elastic at the rear of the machine spool
pin. Pass the cord through the cord guides (1) and (2) and then
through the left needle thread guide (3). See Fig. 1.
2. Insert the cord through either the front or rear hole (according
to the operation, see diagrams Figures 2 and 3), in the presser foot 2
and pass it under and to the rear of the foot.
3. Place the fabric to be sewn as normal.
Start at slow speed observing if cord is feeding correctly and in-
crease speed as desired. 3 Fig.1

For joining shoulder or sleeves, pass the cord through the front
hole, ensuring that it is fixed between the left and right needle
threads as it is guided through the front hole. (Fig.2).

For joining side seams, pass the cord through the rear hole, ensur-
Fig.3
ing it is positioned to the right needle thread. (Fig.3) Fig.2

For decorative effects, you may pass contrasting colors either


through the front or rear hole or if you desire, pass cord or yarn
through each hole.

For making wawy hem with filler cord (Fig. 4), pass the filler cord
through the rear hole and start ROLLED HEM (See page 16).

This is used for the hem of skirt, etc.

Fig.4

GETTING READY TO SEW – 29


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Decorative effects
In addition to normal overlocking which is fully described
in this instruction book, your machine can also be used for a
number of decorative applications such as flatlocking, butted
seams, pintucking or making lengths of decorative braid. See
below. Fig.A

Decorative flatlocking using two threads or using


three threads (flat seam)
Fold fabric along the line to be flatlock and sew over the folded
edge, making sure not to cut into the fold. Fig. A.
Unfold the fabric, pull the ends of the threads to the underside
and press flat. Fig.B

The final appearance can be enhanced by using buttonhole


twist or embroidery thread on the lower looper.

Butted seams using two threads or using three


threads (flat seam)
Place two pieces of fabric wrong sides together and overlock
along the edge. Unfold and press.
By using different colored fabrics and thread a pleasing 'patch-
work' effect can be achieved.

Pintucking using three threads


Fold fabric along a line to be pintucked and overlock sew along
the folded edge, making sure not to cut into the folded edge of
the fabric. (See page 25). Pull ends of threads to underside and
press.

Making decorative braid using three threads


Overlock over a cord braid, holding it carefully with both
hands, making sure not to cut the edge. (See page 25).

NOTE: Reduce the tension when using thicker, decorative threads.

30 – GETTING READY TO SEW


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Differential feed applications


Please refer to pages 23-24, Differential feed.
Differential feed is designed to minimize puckering and wa-
vering. It is also very effective for gathering.

1. Puckering
Puckering tends to occur on woven or sheer fabrics.
To obtain pucker-free seams, set the differential feed control
dial at less than 1.

Pucker or waver-free seams


2. Wavering
Wavering tends to occur on knitted or stretchable fabrics.
To obtain waver-free seams, set the differential feed control
dial at more than 1.

3. Gathering
Differential feed makes gathering easier on lightweight fabric.
Use it on waistlines, sleeve heads, sleeve bottoms and ruffles,
etc.
Set the differential feed control dial between 1.5 and 2 to ob- Puckering
tain the best gathering effect for your use.
It can also be helpful to increase tension on the needle
thread(s) and lengthen the stitch length setting.

Important
The exact adjustment depends on the thickness and elasticity
of fabric. Even the stitch length can influence the setting.
The longer the stitches, the more the fabric is contracted.
Always do a test run with a piece of actual fabrics you use Wavering
and find the best settings.

Gathering

GETTING READY TO SEW – 31


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3. CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE


Replacing the moving cutter

Replace the moving cutter as follows, if it becomes blunt. A spare cutter will be found in your accessories.
NOTE: You should not need to replace fixed cutter, which is made of special hard alloy material.
FIRST REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE SUPPLY SOCKET-OUTLET.

1. Loosen screw and take out moving cutter.


2. Close the working table. Lower cutter driving arm to its
lowest position by turning the hand wheel towards
you by hand. In this position, set replacement cutter Screw Moving
in position and secure it with screw, ENSURING
cutter
THAT THE EDGE OF THE MOVING CUTTER
IS APPROXIMATELY 0.5MM BELOW THE
SURFACE OF THE FIXED CUTTER.

0.5mm

Disengaging moving cutter


If you want to sew without cutting, open the working
table and disengage the moving cutter by pushing the
cutter release knob to the left and turning it towards you
as illustrated. Ensure that fabric edge is not wider than
overedge width selected or upper looper and needle can
be damaged.

Cutter release knob

32 – CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE


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Cleaning and oiling

To keep the machine running smoothly, keep it clean and lubricated at all times.
FIRST DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER SUPPLY BY REMOVING PLUG FROM SOCKET-OUTLET.

1. Open the front cover and working table. Using the brush provided, remove dust and lint that have accumulated.
2. Apply a few drops of oil to the points indicated by arrows.
ALWAYS USE A GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL.

Brush

Oil

CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE – 33


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4. CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS

PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION

1. Incorrect thread tension(s). 1. Reset thread tension(s).


2. Incorrect size needle. 2. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Irregular stitches 3. Improper threading. 3. Re-thread machine.
4. Pulling fabric. 4. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
5. Loose presser foot. 5. Reset presser foot.

1. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.


1. Pulling fabric.
2. Choose correct size needle for
2. Incorrect size needle.
Breaking needle thread and fabric.
3. Incorrect setting of needle.
3. Reset needle.
4. Loose presser foot.
4. Reset presser foot.

1. Incorrect thread tension(s). 1. Reset thread tension(s).


Puckering 2. Bent or blunt needle. 2. Insert new needle.
3. Differential feed is set incorrectly. 3. Set it at less than 1.

Wavering Differential feed is set incorrectly. Set it at 1 or at more than 1.

1. Improper threading. 1. Reset thread machine.


2. Incorrect size needle. 2. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Skipping Stitches
3. Bent or blunt needle. 3. Insert new needle.
4. Incorrect setting of needle 4. Reset needle.

1. Improper threading. 1. Re-thread machine.


2. Bent needle. 2. Insert new needle.
3. Thread tension(s) too tight. 3. Reset thread tension(s).
Breaking Threads
4. Incorrect setting of needle. 4. Reset needle.
5. Thread spool tangled. 5. Reset spool properly.
6. Thread guide pole not extended. 6. Fully extend guide pole.

34 – CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS


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