Unit 2: Tools and Maintenance Procedures

UNIT 2
Tools and Maintenance Procedures

Unit Objectives:

At the completion of this unit each student will be able to identify

and explain the use of Hand and Power Tools and perform general
maintenance procedures.
Unit References:

Hand Tools (Book) SEBV0522

Tooling:
222-7876 (168-0328) Caterpillar Tool Kit or equivalent
NOTES
 Lesson 1: Hand Tools
Lesson 1: Hand Tools

Introduction:
There are many hand tools in our field that we must use. It is
important that each student know how to use the tools properly. We
will study wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, pliers, punches, chisels,
and specialty tools.
Objectives:
At the completion of this lesson, the student will be able to identify
and use basic hand tools.
References:
Hand Tools (Book) SEBV0522

Tooling:
222-7876 (168-0328) Caterpillar tool kit (or equivalent)
Unit 2 2-1-2 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.1 and 2.1.2 Large Open End Wrench

Large Open End Wrenches

The wrench is open on the end and has two flats that contact the sides
of the nut or bolt. If the wrench is too large, it will round off the
corners of the nut or bolt. Measure size across flats and look for
stamped marking on wrench.
This wrench can be used on any nut or bolt of the same size. Special
sizes are made for particular applications as described on the chart in
the Tool Guide. The wrench can be turned over in close quarters.
NOTE: DO NOT strike wrenches with a hammer. This will
cause damage and may cause injury if the wrench slips off the
fastener. Always PULL on a wrench. AVOID PUSHING! If a
wrench must be pushed, push on it with an open palm.
Unit 2 2-1-3 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.3 and 2.1.4 Open End Wrench

Open End Wrench

The angle between the head and the shank on a standard open end
wrench will be either 15 degrees or 22 1/2 degrees. On these
wrenches one head is at a 30 degree angle to the shank and the other
head is at a 60 degree angle. The fourteen wrenches in the 1P3515
Group range from 3/8 inches to 1 1/2 inches with both heads on each
wrench the same size.

Fig. 2.1.5 and 2.1.6 Tappet Wrench

Tappet Wrench
A tappet wrench has thin ends and a long handle. It has two ends:
one end is 1/2 inches and the other is 9/16 inches.
The tappet wrench is used for valve adjustment.
DO NOT use this wrench in other applications such as normal
service work. This is a light duty wrench and is not designed to
withstand heavy loads.
Unit 2 2-1-4 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.7 and 2.1.8 Box End Wrench

Box End Wrench

These wrenches have an open socket type head on each end of along
shank. Each box contains 12 points and is generally offset from the
shank at a 15 degree angle. Each end of the wrench will be a
different size by 1/16 inches. The size will be marked on the shank
close to each end.
These wrenches have a wide range of applications and are generally
used where a large amount of force must be applied, such as breaking
nuts loose. Since the box end completely encloses the fastener, there
is little chance of the wrench slipping off. However, since the
wrench must be removed from the fastener and put back on after
each swing (where space is limited), it should be used only to break
fasteners loose or too tighten them.
DO NOT use extensions on these wrenches to multiply force. This
wrench is not designed to withstand this type of use and could slip
off the fastener or break, causing possible injury.
Unit 2 2-1-5 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.9 and 2.1.10 Combination Wrenches

Combination Wrenches
The combination wrench has open end jaws on one end and the
closed box socket on the other end. The open end will be on either a
15-degree or 22 1/2 degree angle to the shank. The box end is offset
15 degrees to the shank.
Combination wrenches are for general use in any area where a socket
and ratchet cannot be used.
DO NOT use extensions on these wrenches to multiply force. The
combination wrench is not designed to withstand this type of use and
could slip off the fastener or break, causing possible injury.
Unit 2 2-1-6 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.11 and 2.1.12 Adjustable Wrench (Crescent)

Adjustable Wrench (Crescent)

This wrench has a head with one stationary jaw and one adjustable
jaw. The head is on a 22 1/2 degree angle with the shank or handle.
A knurled adjustment screw moves the adjustable jaw and is located
in the center of the head.
The adjustable wrench is a general-purpose wrench that should be
used on odd sized nuts or bolts only when an open end, box end or
combination wrench is not available. Although the adjustable wrench
is handy to use at times, it does not grip the nut or bolt as securely as
a standard wrench and has a much greater chance of slipping off the
fastener. This wrench is not designed for hard service and should not
be used where great force is needed.
Always tighten the jaws securely on the fastener before using the
wrench. Make sure the adjustable jaw is facing the user when
pulling on the wrench. This puts the greatest force on the stationary
jaw and helps to maintain a secure fit on the fastener.
AVOID PUSHING on the adjustable wrench, striking it with a
hammer, or using an extension on it. Damage will definitely result if
excess force is applied to the adjustable jaw.
Unit 2 2-1-7 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.13 and 2.1.14 Heavy Duty Adjustable Wrench

Heavy Duty Adjustable Wrench

The heavy-duty adjustable wrench looks very similar to the standard
adjustable or crescent wrench. The basic difference between the two
is that the heavy duty adjustable uses a nut and bolt and a series of
positioning holes to locate the adjustable jaw while the adjustable or
crescent uses a knurled adjusting screw. The heavy duty adjustable
wrench is also much larger and heavier than the standard adjustable
wrench.
These wrenches are used in general applications where large nuts and
bolts requiring a large amount of force to loosen or tighten are
encountered. They are generally used when the proper sized open
end or box end wrenches are not readily available.
DO NOT use extensions on these wrenches to multiply force. This
wrench is not designed to withstand this type of use and could slip
off the fastener or break, causing possible injury.
Unit 2 2-1-8 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.15 and 2.1.16 Hollow Head Screw Wrench (Allen or Hex Wrench)

Hollow Head Screw Wrench

This wrench is made from hexagonal bar stock with a 90 degree bend
in it. These wrenches range from 0.028 inches to over 1 inch and can
be purchased individually or in various sized sets.
The hollow head or hex wrench is used to remove and install set
screws, guide pins, drain plugs and other types of recessed hex head
screws.
Unit 2 2-1-9 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.17 and 2.1.18 Pipe Wrenches

Pipe Wrenches
Pipe wrench size is determined by shank length. This wrench has an
adjusting nut rather than an adjusting screw and the jaws are at a 90
degree angle to the shank. The jaws have teeth that grip the pipe and
the adjustable jaw is slightly loose, which aids in gripping the pipe
when force is applied to the handle.
This wrench is designed for use on pipe only and should not be used
on any type of square or hexagonal fastener.
Always tighten the jaws of the wrench securely on the pipe before
using the wrench. DO NOT use extensions on these wrenches to
multiply force. The jaw opening must be facing the user when
pulling on the wrench.
Unit 2 2-1-10 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.19 Filter Strap Wrench

Filter Strap Wrench

The 185-3630 (2P8250) filter strap wrench consists of a base which
is curved to fit the contour of the filter, a rotating retaining pin
located in the base, and a 24 inches by 2 inches nylon strap. The
retaining pin has a slot through which the end of the strap is inserted
and two square 1/2 inch drive holes for the ratchet.
The wrench is used for removing and installing all spin-on type fuel
and oil filters. It is capable of applying high torque on large filters
without denting the filter can.
Wipe excess grease and oil from filter to prevent wrench slippage.
Keep hands away from positions where injury may occur if a wrench
should suddenly slip.
Unit 2 2-1-11 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.20 and 2.1.21 Chain Wrench

Chain Wrench
The chain wrench consists of a steel bar with a length of chain
permanently attached to the head of the wrench. The chain has small
pins through each link that fit individually in a slot in the head of the
wrench. By inserting different pins in the slot, the length of the chain
can be adjusted. A long steel extension that slips over the end of the
wrench is also included in the group.
This tool is used to remove and install the threaded crown, which is
used to retain the head on later hydraulic cylinders. It can also be
used on large diameter threaded pipes.
Always adjust the chain to the tightest possible position when
installing the crown or pipe. Make sure the wrench is at a 90 degree
angle to the crown or pipe before applying force to prevent the tool
from slipping. Always brace yourself to prevent a fall if the wrench
slips. If the extension is used, take extra care to insure that it does
not slip off the wrench.
Unit 2 2-1-12 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.22 and 2.1.23 Sledge Wrench

Sledge Wrench
The sledge wrench has a twelve point box end that is very similar to
a standard box end wrench. The other end of the wrench has a heavy
striking head. The shank of this wrench is approximately one-half
the length of a standard box end wrench and is much heavier to
withstand the shock of the blows.
This wrench is used to loosen and tighten large nuts and bolts in
applications requiring extreme torque. The sledge wrench should not
be used in tightening where a specific torque setting is required. A
common application is loosening and tightening hitch pins on large
tractor-scrapers.
Never place an extension on the end of the sledge wrench. Make
sure the wrench fits securely over the nut or bolt so that it will not fly
off when struck with a hammer. Always wear safety glasses when
using this wrench in case a small fragment of metal from the hammer
or wrench breaks off.
Keep the wrench clean. Wipe off dirt and oil. Inspect the box end
for excess wear and discard the wrench if this condition is found.
Inspect the striking head for "mushrooming" and remove excess
metal with a grinder before using.
Unit 2 2-1-13 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.24 and 2.1.25 Sockets

Sockets
Depending on drive sizes, sockets range in size from 1/8" to over 3",
the most popular being approximately 3/8" to 1". Sockets may be six
or twelve point and chrome or black finish. Chrome finish is for
general duty use with ratchets, speeder handles and nut spinners.
Black finish may be either impact or power sockets. These are very
similar in appearance and should not be interchanged.
Sockets can be used in any area where space allows to provide a
positive grip on the nut or bolt. Sockets can be used with a variety of
tools (ratchet, speeder handle, etc.) to provide either high torque or
rapid removal or installation. Sockets are the most widely used tools
in the technician's box because of their versatility, speed and ability
to reach areas where wrenches or other tools cannot reach.
Make sure the socket fits securely on the nut or bolt head and is not
cocked at an angle or it may slip off causing tool damage or possible
injury. Never use a standard or power socket on an impact tool.
These sockets are harder and more brittle than impact sockets and
will shatter with repeated use. Refer to the Tool Guide under
Individual Sockets to determine if sockets are impact rated.
Unit 2 2-1-14 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.26 and 2.1.27 Ratchet

Ratchet
The ratchet handle and head are one forged piece with the drive lug
on one side of the head and the directional lever on the opposite side
of the head. Examples of standard ratchet size and shape ratchets for
special applications are: swivel head, long handle, short handle, and
bent handle swivel head.
Ratchets are used to drive sockets to remove or install fasteners in
any application where space permits.
Make sure the socket locks firmly onto the ratchet lug. Never use an
extension on a ratchet or strike it with a hammer. Tool damage or
injury may result. Always pull on the ratchet, do not push.
Unit 2 2-1-15 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.28 and 2.1.29 Speeder Handle

Speeder Handle
The speeder handle is approximately 18" long with a drive lug on one
end and a rotating handle on the opposite end. This tool has a U-
shaped offset in the middle, which acts as another handle to turn the
socket. The most common sizes of speeder handles are 3/8" and 1/2"
drive.
Do not strike this tool with a hammer. Grip the rotating handle
firmly and hold it stationary and in line with the nut or bolt. Do not
use this tool as a pry bar.

Fig. 2.1.30 and 2.1.31 Breaker Bar

Breaker Bar
The nut spinner is a steel bar approximately two feet long with a
socket drive lug on one end and a handle on the other end.
The nut spinner is used where a great amount of force is needed to
loosen a nut or bolt. The nut spinner can be straightened out and
used to remove nuts if excessive resistance is not encountered.
Unit 2 2-1-16 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

DO NOT strike the spinner with a hammer or use an extension on the

handle. Do not use this tool as a pry bar or hammer. Always make
sure the spinner and socket are properly seated on the bolt or nut and
is not cocked at an angle.

Fig. 2.1.32 and 2.1.33 Sliding “T” Wrench

Sliding "T" Wrench

The sliding "T" wrench consists of a stationary drive lug and head
with a hole, which houses a sliding bar. Each end of the bar is
crimped or expanded to prevent it from sliding out of the lug.
This wrench is used to loosen plugs, nuts or bolts where space may
restrict the use of a ratchet or nut spinner. It is generally used only to
initially loosen plugs or fasteners, since it is rather awkward to rotate
rapidly.
DO NOT strike the wrench with a hammer or use an extension on the
handle. Always make sure the socket is properly seated on the nut or
bolt and is not cocked at an angle.
Unit 2 2-1-17 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.34 and 2.1.35 Sledge Socket Wrench

Sledge Socket Wrench

The sledge socket wrench is similar in appearance to a standard
ratchet, except a striking head replaces the handle and there is no
ratcheting action. There is also a square drive hole on the back of the
head of the sledge socket wrench where the directional lever would
be located on a standard ratchet. The sledge socket wrench also has a
hole in the drive lug where a spring loaded steel ball would be
located on a standard ratchet. The most common size is a 1" drive.
This wrench is used when extreme torque is required to loosen or
tighten large nuts or bolts. It can be used in any application where a
torque multiplier does not have sufficient capacity or is not available.
This wrench cannot be used to set nuts or bolts to specific torque
values.
Make sure the lock pin and retaining ring are properly installed and
that the wrench is placed squarely over the nut or bolt. Never use
standard or power sockets with this wrench. They are too hard and
brittle and may shatter. Always use impact sockets. If an extension
is used between the drive lug and the socket, place a long extension
in the drive hole in the back of the head and have a helper hold it to
steady the wrench. Never use an extension on the handle of the
wrench.
Unit 2 2-1-18 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.36 and 2.1.37 Socket Driver

Socket Driver
The socket drive is a screwdriver with a 1/4" or 3/8" drive lug instead
of a screwdriver tip.
This tool is used to rapidly install or remove small nuts, bolts or hex
head screws in applications where the fastener is already loose or
where a minimum amount of torque is needed for loosening or
tightening. The more popular 1/4" size is especially handy when
working in a confined area where a wrench or ratchet would be very
difficult to use.
Never grip the handle of this tool with pliers or any other tool to
increase torque. The socket driver is not designed for this type of use
and tool damage will result. Make sure the spring loaded steel ball in
the drive lug grips the socket firmly.
Unit 2 2-1-19 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.38 and 2.1.39 Socket Extension

Socket Extension
The socket extension is simply a piece of steel bar stock with a drive
lug on one end and a internal drive socket on the other end.
Extensions come in 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4", and 1" drives and lengths
ranging from 2" to 2 feet.
Extensions can be used in any application where space permits and
where they make the job easier.
Make sure the extension is in line with the nut or bolt head and the
socket is securely seated and is not cocked at an angle, or it may slip
off causing tool damage or possible injury. Use caution when
working in confined areas around electrical connections such as a
starter or battery.
Unit 2 2-1-20 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.40 and 2.1.41 Drive Adapter

Drive Adapter
The drive adapter looks like a very short extension and is just long
enough to allow room for a drive hole and a drive lug.
This tool is used for adapting ratchets and driving handles to
different sized drive extensions and sockets. Drive adapters should
be used only when the proper sized driver is not available or when
space does not permit use of the proper driver.
Do not use these tools with impact wrenches. Do not use large nut
spinners on smaller drive sockets. This may cause the socket to
break or shatter causing possible injury. Drive adapters should not be
used together in series to increase or decrease size more than one
step.
Unit 2 2-1-21 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.42 and 2.1.43 Ratchet Adapter

Ratchet Adapter
The 1P853 Ratchet Adapter is 3/4" drive attachment that resembles a
large drive adapter. This tool has an external and internal end and a
knurled directional ring on the internal end which is partially covered
by the outer shell.
The 1P853 Ratchet Adapter is used primarily with the 8T5245
Torque Multiplier, but can also be used with 9S7351 Torque Wrench
or a 3/4" Breaker Bar. The ratchet adapter can be used on any non-
ratcheting 3/4" drive tool where the ratcheting action is more
efficient than taking the tool on and off the fastener.
DO NOT use this tool with impact wrenches; this will cause tool
damage and may cause the tool to fly apart, causing possible injury.
If slippage is noted, discard the tool.
Unit 2 2-1-22 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.44 and 2.1.45 Universal Joint

Universal Joint
The universal joint consists of a internal drive socket member, a
external lug member and a pivot block in the center. The yokes are
attached to the pivot block and provide the two pivot points that
allow the joint to bend.
The universal joint can be used in any application where the ratchet
or extension must be at an angle to the socket. This tool is especially
useful in confined areas where accessibility is difficult.
Make sure the socket fits completely over the nut or bolt head or it
may slip off causing tool damage or possible injury. Never use a
standard or power universal joint on an impact wrench. These
universal joints are harder and more brittle than impact universal
joints and will break or shatter with repeated use.
Unit 2 2-1-23 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.46 and 2.1.47 Ball-type Universal Joint

Ball-type Universal Joint

The ball-type universal joint has three major parts; a housing, drive
lug and drive pin. The housing contains the internal drive lug hole
on one end, the external drive lug and drive pin in the other end. The
external drive lug has a ball stud with an oval slot through it in which
the drive pin rests. The extra clearance between the drive pin and the
drive pin slot in the external drive lug allows the universal drive to
operate on a bent axis.
This tool can be used in any confined area that cannot be reached by
a wrench or socket and handle. The 1/2" and 1" universal drives
have sufficient capacity to handle the full torque output of torque
multipliers of the same drive size. A typical application would be the
tightening of the nuts that secure the final drive housings to the rear
frame and case of the Caterpillar G Series Motor Graders.
Make sure the socket fits completely over the nut or bolt head or it
may slip off causing tool damage or possible injury. Never use a
standard or power rated universal drive on an impact wrench. These
universal drives are harder and more brittle than impact universal
drives and will break or shatter with repeated use.
Unit 2 2-1-24 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.48 and 2.1.49 Universal Socket

Universal Socket
The universal socket can be used in any application where the
ratchet or extension must be at an angle to the bolt or nut. This tool
is especially useful in confined areas where accessibility is difficult.
Make sure the socket fits completely over the nut or bolt head or it
may slip off causing tool damage or possible injury. Never use a
standard or power socket on an impact wrench. These sockets are
harder and more brittle than impact sockets and will shatter with
repeated use.
Unit 2 2-1-25 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.50 and 2.1.51 Hex Drive Socket

Hex Drive Socket

The hex drive socket is a combination of a hollow head screw (Allen)
wrench and a drive socket. The hex bit fits in the drive socket and is
held in place by a lock pin.
This tool can be used to remove, install, or tighten any socket head
screw where space permits. This tool is more versatile than a hollow
head screw wrench because it can be used with a ratchet, extensions
and universal joint in confined areas and more torque may be applied
to the screw. It may also be used with a speeder handle to remove or
install screws more rapidly.
Make sure the hex bit fits securely into the screw socket and is not
cocked at angle or it may slip out causing tool damage or possible
injury. Never use a standard or power hex drive socket on an impact
wrench. These are harder and more brittle than impact sockets and
will shatter with repeated use.
Unit 2 2-1-26 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.52 and 2.1.53 12 Point Shoulder Bolt Socket

12 Point Shoulder Bolt Socket

The shoulder bolt socket is very similar to a standard socket, except
that the neck of the socket is longer to fit into recessed openings.
The internal drive lug hole is the same as a standard socket.
The shoulder bolt socket is designed for use on 12 point shoulder
bolts. The 12 points provide more contact between the bolt and the
socket and allow a firmer grip reducing the possibility of the socket
slipping off the bolt. Shoulder head bolts are generally used in a high
torque to fastener size application.
Make sure the socket fits completely over the nut or bolt head or it
may slip off causing tool damage or possible injury. Never use a
standard or power socket on an impact wrench. These sockets are
harder and more brittle than impact sockets and will shatter with
repeated use.
Unit 2 2-1-27 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.54 and 2.1.55 Heavy Duty Impact Socket

Heavy Duty Impact Socket

The heavy duty impact socket is very similar to a standard socket,
except the walls of it are much thicker and they are black in color.
However, all black sockets are not impact rated; some are power
sockets. Sockets with Caterpillar part numbers are listed in the
Caterpillar Tool Guide under the Individual Sockets dimension chart
and are prefixed with three stars or three plus signs to identify impact
rating.
These and any other impact sockets can be used in any applications
where space permits the use of the impact wrench.
Make sure the lock pin and retaining ring are properly installed (for
sockets having this feature). For sockets having a seating hole for a
spring loaded steel ball in the lug of the driver, make sure this steel
ball is firmly seated. Never spin the socket at high speed, this may
cause it to fly off causing possible injury. Safety glasses or goggles
should be worn when using impact tools in case breakage occurs.
Unit 2 2-1-28 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.56 and 2.1.57 Crowfoot Wrench

Crowfoot Wrench
The open-end crowfoot wrench is basically an open-end wrench
without a shank or handle. A square drive lug hole is located on the
back of the wrench head to accommodate the drive lug of a ratchet or
extension. On most crowfoot wrenches there is no angle between the
jaws and the lug hole; they are in line. The flare nut crowfoot
wrench is the same as the open end, except it has a box head with an
opening to fit over fuel lines, etc. The flare nut crowfoot provides a
more positive grip than the open end crowfoot because it has more
contact points.
Crowfoot wrenches can be used in any confined area where access
with a socket, open end, or box end wrench is not possible. These
wrenches can be used with a ratchet or torque wrench, but when used
with a torque wrench, torque correction must be computed. The
amount of correction can be computed using a torque computer.
Make sure the wrench fits securely on the nut or bolt head and is not
cocked at an angle or it may slip off causing tool damage or possible
injury. Do not use an impact wrench with these tools; they are not
designed for this type of use and will break or shatter.
Unit 2 2-1-29 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.58 and 2.1.59 Deep Well Socket

Deep Well Socket

The deep well socket has the same features as a standard socket,
except it is approximately 2 1/2 times longer (or deeper). The size
stamping, internal drive hole, and teeth are the same.
These sockets are designed for use in areas where nuts or bolts are
recessed, where threads of a bolt extend out farther than normal or
where an odd shaped feature extends past the hex of the fastener,
such as a spark plug or temperature sender unit. Deep well sockets
should be used in place of standard sockets only when necessary
since they place the ratchet or handle farther away from the fastener
and increase the chance of cocking at an angle or slipping off.
Make sure the socket fits securely over the nut or bolt head and is not
cocked at an angle or it may slip off causing tool damage or possible
injury. Never use standard or power sockets on an impact wrench.
These sockets are harder and more brittle and will shatter with
repeated use.
Unit 2 2-1-30 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.60 and 2.1.61 Ferrule Nut Wrench

Special Tools
Ferrule Nut Wrench
The ferrule nut wrench is similar in appearance to a standard box end
wrench, except for the slot in the end and the heavier jaws. The ends
of the wrench are offset 15 degrees from the shank and the sizes are
marked in the center of the shank.
This wrench is designed to loosen and tighten ferrule nuts on fuel
injection lines and should not be used in general purpose or high
torque applications.
DO NOT use extensions or strike this wrench with a hammer to
multiply force. The ferrule nut wrench is not designed to withstand
this type of use and could slip off the fastener or break, causing
possible injury. Always PULL on the wrench; AVOID PUSHING. If
a wrench must be pushed, push on it with an open palm.
Unit 2 2-1-31 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.62 and 2.1.63 Spanner Wrenches

Spanner Wrenches
The fixed spanner wrench resembles a large single box end wrench
with half of the box cut away. At the end of the gripping jaw there is
a drive pin which is inserted into the drive hole on the spanner nut.
The adjustable spanner wrench is similar to the fixed spanner
wrench, except it has two parts, the handle and the jaw. The jaw has
a series of holes, which allow the span to be adjusted. A nut and bolt
act as a pivot point between the handle and jaw and are removed and
installed in different jaw holes to change wrench size.
Spanner wrenches are used to remove and install spanner nuts,
cylinder rod heads on hydraulic cylinders, sprocket retaining nuts on
some machines, etc.
Make sure the drive pin is seated securely in the drive pinhole on the
nut and the wrench is not cocked at an angle. Inspect the drive
pinhole in the nut for wear or damage and be prepared for the wrench
to slip if this condition exists.
DO NOT strike the wrench with a hammer and use extensions only
on wrenches that are designed for this type of use. Misuse of this
tool can cause tool damage or possible injury if the wrench slips off
the fastener.
Unit 2 2-1-32 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.64 and 2.1.65 Tubular Spanner Wrench

Tubular Spanner Wrench

Most tubular spanner wrenches resemble standard or deep well
sockets with notches or teeth on the end and no internal teeth. The
tubular spanners may have a hole through the sides of the walls to
hold a pinch bar or a square drive lug hole for a ratchet.
Tubular spanner wrenches are generally used to remove and install
spanner nuts on the end of shafts, but can be used wherever they are
more convenient than a flat type spanner wrench.
Make sure the wrench teeth are securely seated on the nut and the
wrench is not cocked at an angle. DO NOT strike the wrench or use
a long handle to increase leverage. DO NOT use power impact
wrenches with these sockets; these tools are not designed for this
type of use and may break or shatter with repeated use. Take extra
care when using tubular spanners on nuts that are worn and be
prepared in case the wrench slips off the fastener.
Unit 2 2-1-33 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.66 and 2.1.67 Hand Impact Wrench

Hand Impact Wrench

The hand impact wrench resembles a large ratchet with a drive lug
extending out each side of the head. Unlike a ratchet, there is no
directional change lever. Turning the wrench over and using the
other drive lug changes direction of rotation.
This wrench is particularly suited for use in the field where air or
electrical power is not available. This tool is especially useful for
changing cutting edges.
Make sure the socket is securely seated on the nut or bolt head and is
not cocked at an angle or it may slip off causing tool damage or
possible injury. Always use impact rated sockets with this tool, never
use standard or power rated sockets. These are harder and more
brittle and will break or shatter with repeated use. Make sure the
socket is properly attached to the drive lug with the lock pin and
retaining ring.
Unit 2 2-1-34 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.68 and 2.1.69 Track Bolt Socket

Track Bolt Socket

The track bolt socket is similar to a standard socket, except the walls
are much thicker and the socket is black in color. However, all black
sockets are not impact rated; some are power sockets. Snap-On tools
with a Snap-On part number will have a "P" prefix for power sockets
and an "IM" prefix for impact sockets. Sockets with Caterpillar part
numbers will be listed in the Tool Guide and the rating stated in the
individual listing.
These sockets are used to remove and replace track bolts with an
impact wrench, but can be used in any application where space
permits. Specific applications are listed in the Tool Guide. Track
bolt sockets are also available for bolts with worn heads.
Make sure the lockpin and retaining ring are properly installed.
Never spin the socket at high speed; this may cause it to fly off the
wrench causing possible injury. Safety glasses or goggles should be
worn when using impact tools in case breakage occurs.
Unit 2 2-1-35 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.70 and 2.1.71 Track Shoe Wrench

Track Shoe Wrench

The track shoe wrench is basically a forged steel bar with a slot near
one end approximately 1/2 as deep as the wrench is thick. The
handle is long in relation to the slot size to provide sufficient
leverage to hold nuts securely in high torque applications.
This wrench is used to hold the track bolt nut when removing and
installing track bolts.
Make sure the wrench is securely seated on the nut. DO NOT strike
the wrench with a hammer or use an extension on it to increase
leverage. This could cause the wrench to slip off the nut, causing
tool damage or possible injury. DO NOT pull or push on this
wrench. Install the wrench on the nut and rest the handle against the
track link so that the impact wrench actually removes the bolt.
Unit 2 2-1-36 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.72 and 2.1.73 Drain Plug Tools

Drain Plug Tools

The 213-1985 Sliding "T" Wrench consists of a stationary drive lug
and head with a hole in it, which houses a sliding steel bar. The
8H8559 1/2" Drive Extension is the same as a standard extension and
is 10" in length. The 212-8145 Drain Plug Socket resembles a drive
adapter and has a 1/2" internal drive lug hole and a 3/4" external
drive lug. The 212-8146 Drain Plug Socket has a 1/2" drive lug hole
in both ends with a 1" hex drive lug on one end and a 1 1/4" hex
drive lug on the other end. The 1S2475 Drain Plug Wrench consists
of a piece of 3/4" square bar stock with a 90 degree bend at each end.
One end is shorter than the other end, but either may be inserted into
a 3/4" internal drain plug.
Any of these tools, except the 1S2475 square drive wrench, can be
used together to provide a suitable combination for a particular
application. A box end or combination wrench may also be used
with the 212-8146 Hex Socket in confined areas.
Make sure the drive lug is securely seated in the drain plug hole.
Never use drain plug sockets with an impact wrench. These sockets
are harder and more brittle than impact tools and will break or shatter
with repeated use. Always PULL on the drain plug wrench; AVOID
PUSHING. If the wrench must be pushed on, push on it with an
open palm. DO NOT strike the wrench with a hammer. This will
cause tool damage and may cause possible injury if the wrench slips
off the plug.
Unit 2 2-1-37 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.74 and 2.1.75 Governor Sealing Tool

Governor Sealing Tool

The crimping tool has a straight handle and a curved handle very
similar to those found on garden shears or a paper punch. The nose
of the crimping tool has a bullet shaped steel slug with a large flat
notch in it that slides into the body of the curved handle when the
handles are squeezed together. The seals are made from thin stamped
steel and are 5/8" in diameter with a triangular tab 1/2" long that is
bent at a 90 degree angle. The sealing wire consists of a single
strand of small diameter steel wire that is wrapped with two strands
of wire of the same size. All of these components are contained in a
governor sealing tool group.
This tool group is used to place seals on governor and turbocharger
assemblies to prevent tampering. When properly installed, it is
impossible to remove the wire from the bolts without breaking the
seal. The seal serves to identify the last dealer to service the unit or
whether the factory adjustment has been changed.
Make sure the seal is properly seated in the crimping tool to prevent
it from flying out during the crimping operation.
Unit 2 2-1-38 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.76 and 2.1.77 Slip Joint Pliers

Slip Joint Pliers

Slip joint pliers come in many sizes; the most common being six
inches in length. The jaws are in line with the handles and contain
the curved teeth used for gripping pipes. The front of each jaw has a
flat surface with fine teeth for gripping sheet metal, wire, etc. A
notch in each handle between the large gripping teeth and the pivot
pin provide a wire cutter for use in light duty applications. The pivot
pin is located in the adjusting slot which is shaped like a figure "8".
Slip joint pliers range in size from five inches to twelve inches in
length for common applications. Quality slip joint pliers are drop
forged to withstand heavy use.
The most common applications for slip joint pliers are gripping sheet
metal, wire, retaining clips, etc. They can also be used to grip pipe in
applications where low torque is sufficient. The gripping teeth
should not be used on hardened surfaces since this will dull them.
Pliers SHOULD NOT be used on nuts or bolt heads because the
gripping teeth will round the corners of the fastener or otherwise mar
or damage it.
Always adjust pliers opening to obtain the most secure fit. Always
PULL on the pliers; AVOID PUSHING. If the pliers must be pushed
on, do so carefully to avoid the pliers slipping. Check the jaws for
excess looseness before using and adjust the pivot pin and nut if this
condition is found.
Unit 2 2-1-39 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.78 and 2.1.79 Needle Nose Pliers

Needle Nose Pliers

Needle nose pliers range in size from two to six inches in length for
most common applications. The handles of the needle nose pliers are
very similar to those on slip joint pliers, but the jaws are not
adjustable and are much smaller in diameter and taper down to a
point for use in confined areas. Some needle nose pliers have a
cutting edge built into one side of each jaw close to the pivot pin
which is used for shearing wire. These pliers have a permanently
pressed pivot pin and cannot be adjusted to remove excess jaw
looseness.
Needle nose pliers have a variety of applications, but are most
commonly used to grip very small objects located in confined areas.
They may also be used to bend wire, crimp electrical connectors on
wires, remove and install small springs and cotter pins, etc. DO
NOT attempt to grip pipes, nuts or bolt heads with these pliers. They
are not designed for this type of application and will slip off. DO
NOT apply extreme force to these pliers. This will cause the jaws to
bend and will ruin the pliers.
DO NOT use these pliers on square or hexagonal fasteners. They are
not designed for this type of use and may slip off, causing possible
injury. Needle nose pliers are designed for light service only and
should not be used where moderate or heavy force is required.
Unit 2 2-1-40 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.80 and 2.1.81 Diagonal Pliers (Side Cutters)

Diagonal Pliers
Diagonal pliers come in various sizes with the most popular being
approximately seven inches in length. The pivot pin is permanently
pressed in and cannot be adjusted to remove excess jaw looseness.
The jaws contain two cutting surfaces with no jaw flats or gripping
teeth and are at angle of approximately 20 degrees to the handles.
The angle of the jaws provides clearance between the handles and the
work in confined areas.
The basic use of diagonal pliers is for cutting wire, but they also have
many other uses. They may be used to remove and install cotter pins;
cut small diameter hose, copper and steel tubing; strip insulation from
wires, etc.
Use caution when cutting electrical wires; make sure the circuit is
disconnected to prevent arcing or shock. When cutting tubing, make
sure there is no pressure in the line. Do not use diagonal pliers to
remove springs. Attempting to grip the spring may cause it to be cut
and fly off, causing injury. Do not attempt to cut items that are too
big, such as steel cable.
Unit 2 2-1-41 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.82 and 2.1.83 Locking Plier - Wrench (Vise-Grip)

Locking Pliers-Wrench (Vise-Grip)

The most common Vise-Grip is 10", but many different sizes and jaw
shapes are available. The jaws on a 10" Vise-Grip are only slightly
over 1" long and contain gripping teeth like those found on a pipe
wrench or slip joint pliers. A knurled adjusting screw is found in the
end of the stationary handle and the release lever is located on the
adjustable handle. The movable jaw is fastened to the stationary jaw
by a pivot pin and is opened and closed by the adjustable jaw, which
is also attached with a pivot pin.
The Vise-Grip is basically a simple handle that can be attached to any
variety of nuts, bolts, pipe fittings, or metal plate to provide holding
power. Since the jaws do not remain parallel as jaw opening is
increased, care should be taken to use the right size Vise-Grip on the
fastener to prevent rounding off its corners or otherwise damaging it.
For fasteners such as nuts and bolt heads, straight jaw Vise-Grips
should be used. On pipes or round objects, curved jaw Vise-Grips
should be used. Always select the size of Vise-Grips that will allow
the jaws to be as parallel as possible when clamped on the fastener.
Use the Vise-Grip as a holding tool only, not as a wrench. The teeth
are not angled like those on a pipe wrench and tend to lose their grip
rather than increase it as the Vise-Grip is rotated. Make sure the
Vise-Grip is locked squarely and securely on the nut or bolt head and
is not cocked at an angle. Never strike the Vise-Grip with a hammer
or use an extension on it, this will cause it to unlock and fly off the
workpiece, causing tool damage or possible injury. When possible,
grip both handles of the Vise-Grip to reduce the chance of accidental
unlocking.
Unit 2 2-1-42 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.84 and 2.1.85 Interlocking Joint Pliers

Interlocking Joint Pliers

Interlocking joint pliers consist of three main parts: the stationary
jaw, an adjustable jaw and a pivot pin and nut. The stationary jaw
contains five curved slots that the curved tooth of the adjustable jaw
fits into. The jaws are at a 45-degree angle to the handles to provide
increased grip on the workpiece when force is applied to rotate the
workpiece. The handles are much longer than those on slip joint or
needle nose pliers to provide much greater gripping force. The 10"
length is the most common size and will handle fasteners up to 1 1/2"
in diameter. Miniature sizes are also very common and are used for
servicing distributors and other small electrical work.
Unlike the Vise-Grip locking wrench, the interlocking joint pliers can
be used to apply rotational force to the fastener or pipe because they
have teeth that provide sufficient grip, and adjustments allow the
jaws to remain parallel. These pliers can be used on nuts, bolts,
fittings, pipe and metal plate. They also are suited for bending wire,
installing and removing clips and springs, and crimping electrical
connections.
When using these pliers on fasteners, make sure the jaws are adjusted
so that they are parallel and contact the flats of the nut or bolt
securely. Always apply pulling force on the adjustable handle since
this is the direction of rotation that will cause the teeth to bite into
the fastener. Applying force in the wrong direction may cause the
pliers to slip off the fastener, causing possible injury and dulling the
jaw teeth. Check for excess looseness before using to prevent
accidental unlocking when force is applied.
Unit 2 2-1-43 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.86 and 2.1.87 Retaining Ring Pliers

Retaining Ring Pliers

Retaining ring pliers have no jaw teeth or gripping flats common to
most pliers. These pliers have thin jaws that taper down to a point
with a small round tip on the end of each jaw. These tips fit into the
holes in the retaining rings and exert the force on the ring to expand
or contract it. Most retaining ring pliers have permanent tips, but
some are available with interchangeable tips of different sizes that
will service a wide range of retaining ring sizes. Although the most
common type of retaining ring pliers are made of thin stamped steel
with a riveted pivot pin, many different types with additional features
and different shapes are available.
Retaining ring pliers are used to remove and install internal and
external retaining rings and have no other common use.
Never use retaining ring pliers in any application for which they were
not designed, such as gripping, prying, etc. Make sure to use the
correct size pliers or tips on the retaining ring. Using the improper
size may cause the ring to fly off when force is applied, causing
possible injury or damage to the pliers. Do not use pliers with bent
or worn tips or excessively loose jaws.
Unit 2 2-1-44 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.88 and 2.1.89 Standard Screwdriver

Standard Screwdriver
A screwdriver consists of a length of round or square tool steel bar
stock with a handle on one end and a tapered blade on the other end.
The diameter of the handle is generally two to five times the
diameter of the shank and is made from wood or plastic. On
screwdrivers designed for tapping, the steel shank will extend clear
through the handle to prevent the handle from being damaged. Some
extended shanks will have a internal drive lug in the end to
accommodate a ratchet for applying extra torque. Screwdriver
lengths range from 2 1/2" to 16" with blade width and thickness
being proportional to shank length.
Screwdrivers are designed to loosen and tighten screws. Some heavy
duty screwdrivers with shanks extending through the handle may be
placed at an angle to the screw slot and lightly tapped to clean rust,
paint or debris. They may also be placed squarely in the slot and
lightly tapped to firmly seat the blade tip. Screwdrivers are NOT pry
bars, wedges or cold chisels and SHOULD NOT BE USED AS
SUCH.
Never use the screwdriver to pry with or as a cold chisel. This will
result in handle or tip breakage ruining the tool and causing possible
injury. NEVER use pliers on a screwdriver; the jaw teeth will
damage and weaken the shank. Prying will also bend the screwdriver
shank, which ruins the tool. Never place hands where they could be
injured if the screwdriver slips out of the screw slot.
Unit 2 2-1-45 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

When redressing a screwdriver, keep the blade cool by dipping it in

water frequently to prevent loss of temper in the blade tip, and make
sure the blade angle is ground properly. Loss of blade temper will
cause the tip to become soft and bend when torque is applied.
Improper blade angle will tend to cause the tip to slip out of the
screw slot.
Unit 2 2-1-46 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.90 and 2.1.91 Cabinet Screwdriver

Cabinet Screwdriver
The cabinet screwdriver consists of a length of narrow, round tool
steel bar-stock with a handle on one end and a tapered blade on the
other end. The diameter of the handle is generally three to seven
times the diameter of the shank and is made from wood or plastic.
This screwdriver shank does not extend through the handle because it
is not designed for tapping. Cabinet screwdriver lengths range from
3" to 20" with the width and thickness of the blade tip being
proportional to shank length.
Cabinet screwdrivers are designed to loosen and tighten screws in
recessed or confined areas. When cleaning rust or debris from screw
slots, do so by hand, NOT by tapping on this screwdriver with a
hammer. The blade and shank on this tool are much narrower than
on a standard screwdriver and will sustain damage much more easily.
Never use the screwdriver to pry with or as a cold chisel. This will
result in handle or tip breakage ruining the tool and causing possible
injury. NEVER use pliers on a cabinet screwdriver; the jaw teeth
will damage and weaken the shank. Prying will also bend the
screwdriver shank, which ruins the tool. Never place hands where
they could be injured if the screwdriver slips out of the screw slot.
When redressing a screwdriver, keep the blade cool by dipping it in
water frequently to prevent loss of temper in the blade tip, and make
sure the blade angle is ground properly. Loss of blade temper will
cause the tip to become soft and bend when torque is applied.
Improper blade angle will tend to cause the tip to slip out of the
screw slot.
Unit 2 2-1-47 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.92 and 2.1.93 Phillips Screwdriver

Phillips Screwdriver
The Phillips screwdriver consists of a length of round tool steel-bar
stock with a handle on one end and a ground four-point tip on the
other end. The diameter of the handle is generally two to five times
the diameter of the shank and is made of wood or plastic. Some
Phillips screwdrivers have shanks that extend through the handle
with a internal drive lug in the end of the shank. These are intended
for use with a ratchet and not for tapping. The tip on this
screwdriver has a blunt taper with four diamond shaped slots ground
into it and a driving tooth between each slot. Screwdriver lengths
range from 2 1/2" to 16" with tip size proportional to shank length.
PHILLIPS is a registered trademark of the Phillips Screw Co.
Phillips screwdrivers are designed to loosen and tighten Phillips head
screws. Phillips screws should not be confused with Reed and
Prince, Tri-Wing, or Posi-Drive screws. Although all are similar
configurations, they should not be interchanged. Tri-Wing and Posi-
Drive are also registered trademarks of the Phillips Co.
NEVER use the screwdriver to pry with or as a cold chisel. This will
result in handle or tip breakage, ruining the tool and causing possible
injury. NEVER use pliers on a screwdriver; the jaw teeth will
damage and weaken the shank. Prying will also bend the shank,
which ruins the tool. NEVER place hands where they could be
injured if the screwdriver slips out of the slot. DO NOT attempt to
redress the screwdriver tip.
Unit 2 2-1-48 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.94 and 2.1.95 Offset Screwdriver

Offset Screwdriver
Offset screwdrivers consist of a short length of round or hexagonal
tool steel bar stock with a driving blade or tip at each end at a 90-
degree angle to the handle. On a straight blade offset screwdriver,
one blade tip will run parallel to the handle and the other tip will be
perpendicular to the handle so that the tool can be turned around in
areas where the swing is limited. Offset screwdrivers with Phillips
tips will have one tip rotated 45 degrees from the other to provide the
shorter swing.
Offset screwdrivers are used to loosen and tighten screws in confined
areas where regular screwdrivers could not be used. Offset
screwdrivers with Phillips drive should not be used on other double
slotted screw heads of similar configurations such as: Reed and
Prince, Posi-Drive, and Tri-Wing.
Unit 2 2-1-49 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.96 and 2.1.97 Ball Peen Hammer

Ball Peen Hammer

The ball peen hammer head is a tool-steel forging with a flat striking
face on one end and a hemispherical striking face on the other end.
The hole in the middle of the head in which the handle is held is
known as the eye. The eye is tapered outward on both ends from the
center so that when the wedge is driven in the end of the handle the
bottom of the head is forced against the larger taper on the handle.
The top of the handle is expanded by the wedge securing the head.
The hammer handle is made from kiln dried hickory for strength and
contoured for a comfortable grip.
Ball peen hammers are used for striking flat surfaces, punches,
chisels, and driving tools. They may also be used for peening metal
surfaces and rivet heads and cutting gaskets from sheet stock. They
should not be used for driving nails because the face is too flat and
will strike the nail at an angle causing it to bend or break.
NEVER strike another hammer or object of equal hardness with a
hammer. This can cause one of the hardened pieces to shatter,
causing severe injury. Always make sure the hammer head is tightly
secured to the handle. Loose hammer heads can easily fly off during
use. NEVER use a hammer with a mushroomed face or strike a
chisel, punch, or driving tool with a driving tool that is mushroomed.
Small metal fragments may easily fly off, causing severe injury. DO
NOT use the handle end of the hammer in place of a soft-faced
hammer. This will cause the handle to spit, making the tool unsafe.
Use care when striking an object so that the handle does not come in
contact with it, causing handle damage. Safety glasses should always
be worn when using a hammer.
Unit 2 2-1-50 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.98 and 2.1.99 Soft Tipped Hammer

Soft Tipped Hammer

The head of the soft tipped hammer is made of aluminum bar stock
with a small counterbore in each end to keep the rubber tip centered.
The center of each counterbore has a threaded hole into which the
stud on tip screws. The handle is fiberglass with a rubber grip and is
molded into the head permanently. The replacement tips are made of
hard rubber with a stud molded into the back to secure them to the
head. A shoulder on the back of the tip fits into the counterbore in
the head to keep the tip from moving.
Soft tipped hammers can be used to tap or strike any machined
surface without damaging it. Examples of applications are: starting
bearing races into bores, installing pistons, starting gears on shafts,
and striking parts during disassembly to break them loose, etc. These
hammers SHOULD NOT be used for striking punches, chisels, or
any other type of striking tool. Soft tipped hammers should not be
confused with plastic hammers whose tips are generally made of
translucent plastic and are much harder. Plastic hammers should not
be used on hardened surfaces because they will mushroom like steel
hammers and pieces of hard plastic may easily fly off, causing injury.
Always make sure the hammer head is tightly secured to the handle.
The head on a soft tipped hammer cannot be tightened. Discard the
hammer if this condition is found. Replace tips that are badly worn
or damaged. Do not use the handle end of the hammer to strike with
or allow the handle to come in contact with an object being struck.
This will cause handle damage which will ruin the tool.
Unit 2 2-1-51 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.100 and 2.1.101 Claw Hammer (Carpenter's Hammer)

Claw Hammer (Carpenter’s Hammer)

The claw hammer has a striking head similar to the ball peen with the
exception of a more rounded face. The claw end of the head consists
of a curved and tapered wedge with a vee slot in it to grip the nail
heads when removing nails. The hammer handle may be made of
wood or fiberglass with or without a rubber grip, or steel with a
rubber grip. Fiberglass handles absorb shock and steel handles resist
damage.
Claw hammers are used to drive and remove nails. They are not
intended for use on other tools such as punches, chisels, etc.
Examples of application are: assembly and disassembly of shipping
crates, shipping blocks and supports, and wood framing. Claw
hammers and ball peen hammers should not be used interchangeably.
NEVER strike another hammer or object of equal hardness with a
hammer. This can cause one of the hardened pieces to shatter
causing severe injury. Always make sure the hammer head is tightly
secured to the handle. Loose hammer heads can easily fly off during
use. NEVER use a hammer with a mushroomed face. Small metal
fragments may easily fly off, causing severe injury. Do not use the
hammer handle in place of a soft-faced hammer. This will cause the
handle to split making the tool unsafe. Use care when striking an
object so that the handle does not come in contact with it, causing
handle damage. Safety glasses should always be worn when using a
claw hammer.
Unit 2 2-1-52 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.102 and 2.1.103 Sledge Hammer

Sledge Hammer
The sledge hammer is made from forged steel and consists of a
rectangular steel block with a long handle. The sledge hammer head
has an eye like a ball peen or claw hammer for securing the handle.
The handle is approximately 30" long and is shaped so an equally
comfortable grip may be obtained when striking with either end of
the head.
The sledge hammer is used for striking heavy blows in applications
where a standard hammer is not heavy enough. Examples of
applications are: fitting track assemblies, removing track master pins
and sprockets when proper pulling tools are not available, and
adjusting the position of heavy assemblies during assembly. It is
advisable to use a driving tool when driving track pins. (Bar stock
with a piece of wire rope welded on.)
Use care when striking an object so that the handle does not come in
contact with it, causing handle damage. Safety glasses should always
be worn when using a sledge hammer.
Unit 2 2-1-53 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.104 and 2.1.105 Drift Punch, Tapered Punch

Drift Punch, Tapered Punch

Both the drift and taper punches are made from small diameter tool
steel bar stock and range in size from 6" to 14" long. The heads of
these punches are generally hexagonal or octagonal bit shape with a
round striking surface ground on the end. The bit end of the taper
punch is ground on a smooth constant taper from the head to the tip.
The drift punch is very similar, except that the bit is not tapered. The
tips of both punches are ground flat and are square. The drift punch
is also called a pin punch because of the pin-like shape of the bit.
Although both punches may be used for the same purposes, the taper
punch is generally used to start driving a pin out of a hole and the
drift punch is used to finish driving the pin out of the hole. Taper
punches may also be used to align holes of parts during assembly.
Unit 2 2-1-54 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.106 and 2.1.107 Center Punch

Center Punch
The center punch is made from small diameter tool steel bar stock
and generally ranges in size from 5" to 6" long. The head of this
punch is generally hexagonal or octagonal in shape with a round
striking surface ground on the end. The bit of the center punch is
tapered like a taper punch, but the tip is pointed rather than ground
square. Tip diameter is 1/8" for a 5" punch and 3/16" for a 6" punch.
Center punch tips are ground on a 60 degree angle while shallow
punch tips are ground at a 30 degree angle.
Center punches are used to make indentations for starting a drill but
also are handy for marking parts during disassembly so that they may
be assembled in the same order. Center punches may also be used
for aligning parts during assembly if a taper punch is not available.
Never use a punch with a mushroomed head or a dull or damaged tip.
Never strike another hardened object with a center punch. This will
result in a damaged tip and may cause one of the hardened pieces to
shatter, causing severe injury. Always wear safety glasses when
striking a punch.
Unit 2 2-1-55 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.108 and 2.1.109 Cold Chisel

Cold Chisel
The cold chisel has a head like a punch, but the bit is a flat taper
instead of a round taper. The bit is also shorter in relation to the head
than the bit of the punch. The cutting edge of the cold chisel is
ground on a 60 degree angle but can vary depending on the hardness
of the metal to be cut. Chisel heads are much larger in diameter than
those of punches because they must withstand more heavily repeated
blows.
Cold chisels are used for shearing and chipping metal. Some of the
more common uses around the shop are: removing rivet heads,
removing nuts or bolt heads, bending lock tabs away from bolt heads,
and cutting sheet metal.
Unit 2 2-1-56 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.110 and 2.1.111 Magnet Assembly

Magnet Assembly
The magnet assembly is generally used to retrieve small screws, nuts,
and bolts that have been dropped into places that are otherwise
inaccessible. The magnet assembly may also be used to prevent loss
of small fasteners by placing it close to them so they will be attracted
if dropped when working in awkward areas.

Fig. 2.1.112 and 2.1.113 Scraper

Scraper
The basic scraper is simply a flat steel blade approximately 6" long
and 1 1/2" wide at the cutting edge with a wooden handle on the
other end for gripping. The scraper is very similar in appearance to a
putty knife but has a rigid blade with a sharpened cutting edge. The
putty knife has a thinner, more flexible blade with no cutting edge.
The primary use of scrapers is for removing gasket material when
cleaning parts, but they may also be used for removing excess paint,
rust, and grease. Many other types of specialized types are available
with extended lengths, different shapes, and special cutting edges.
They all serve the same basic purpose.
Unit 2 2-1-57 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.114 and 2.1.115 Shop Brush

Shop Brush
The shop brush is a small hand broom with bristles approximately
2 1/2" long and 3" thick. The wooden body of the brush is 12" long
with a 6" handle extending from one end.
The shop brush is used for sweeping confined areas such as around
work benches and shop equipment where a broom would be
inconvenient or impossible to use.

Fig. 2.1.116 and 2.1.117 Paint Brush

Paint Brush
General use paint brushes are selected by brush width which ranges
from 1" to 6". There are many different types of bristles, each suited
for a specific type of paint. Better brushes usually have wooden
handles while inexpensive brushes have plastic handles.
Paint brushes are used to apply paint to touch up machines, paint
shop equipment, stencil shipping crates, etc. Brushes with horse hair
or thick bristles may also be used to clean parts in solvent if a parts
cleaning brush is not available. However, once the brush has been
used in solvent, it should not be used for painting.
Unit 2 2-1-58 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.118 and 2.1.119 Wire Brush

Wire Brush
This brush has a 1" square wooden handle 14" long that is slightly
curved away from the bristles to provide more finger clearance. The
brush has several 6" rows of 2" stiff steel bristles that are bonded into
the handle. In certain non-ferrous welding applications, the bristle
material is specific for the material being welded.
The wire brush is primarily used for removing dirt, rust, caked
grease, and other debris from parts before cleaning in a solvent tank.

Fig. 2.1.120 and 2.1.121 Parts Cleaning Brush

Parts Cleaning Brush

This brush has a long round wooden handle with short stiff nylon
bristles. Handle lengths range from 8 1/2" to 12" and brush
diameters from 1/2" to 1 1/2". Bristle length is only 1 1/2" to
provide the necessary rigidity for removing hardened grease.
The parts cleaning brush is used when cleaning parts in a solvent that
requires a hard scouring action to remove hardened grease, gum,
varnish, or a preservative on new parts.
Unit 2 2-1-59 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.122 and 2.1.123 Pocket Knife

Pocket Knife
The basic pocket knife has a handle approximately 3 1/2" long with
two folding blades. The larger blade is 2 1/2" long and 5/8" wide,
and the smaller blade is 1 3/4" long and 3/8" wide. Some knives
have other features such as a blade with a bottle opener and a blunt
tip that can be used as a screwdriver.
Pocket knives can be used to cut or strip wire, cut rope or nylon
bands, punch holes in cans, etc.

Fig. 2.1.124 and 2.1.125 Hand saw

Hand Saw
Most common hand saws range in length from 24" to 36". The blade
of the saw is made of thin sheet tool steel that is approximately 3"
wide at the tip and widens to 6" at the handle. The entire length of
the bottom contains small teeth that do the cutting. The handle is
fastened to the large end of the blade and has an elongated slot that
serves as the hand grip. Show and explain how to differentiate
between teeth of rip and crosscut saws.
Hand saws are used to cut all types of woods. Typical shop
applications would be constructing shipping crates or cutting
supports.
Unit 2 2-1-60 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.126 and 2.1.127 File, File Handle, File Card

File, File Handle, File Card

Files are made of very hard and brittle steel with teeth ground on
them. One of the most common types of file is the hand file, which
is approximately 1 1/4" wide, 12" long, and 1/8" thick. The long
tapered point on the end of the file is called the tang and seats in the
handle. The base or taper at which the tang begins is called the heel.
The wide flat areas with the cutting teeth are called the faces and the
long narrow areas on the sides of the faces are called the edges. The
small end of the file opposite the tang is called the point. Several
other common types of files are: flat, knife, half-round, round,
square, three-square, etc. A file handle is simply a short, round,
contoured, wooden handle with a hole in the end that holds the file
tang.
A file card is a small rectangular steel brush with short coarse bristles
on one side and smaller, finer bristles on the other. Some of the
many uses of files are: (1) remove extra material; (2) remove extra
material to fit pieces more closely together; (3) repair threads on
screws and bolts; (4) smooth a flat surface or edge; (5) shape a slot,
notch a hole, etc. File handles provide an area that may be securely
gripped without danger of injury when using a file. File cards are
used to clean clogged file teeth to maintain maximum cutting
efficiency. Files are NOT pry bars, wedges, or cold chisels and
SHOULD NOT BE USED AS SUCH. Files should not be used on
other hardened objects as this will result in severe tooth damage. Use
files with large teeth on soft material and smaller teeth on hard
material.
Unit 2 2-1-61 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

NEVER use the file to pry with or as a chisel or punch. Files are
very hard and brittle, and misuse will result in breakage or shattering
causing possible injury. NEVER use a file without a file handle. A
slip can very easily result in a puncture wound in the hand from the
tang. NEVER strike the file with another hardened tool such as a
hammer. This will result in the file shattering causing possible injury.

Fig. 2.1.128 and 2.1.129 C Clamp

C Clamp
C clamps vary in size from 1" to well over 1". The C clamp gets its
name from the shape of its body that may be either cast or forged. A
tightening screw is located in one end of the clamp body and can be
rotated to loosen or tighten objects between it and the flat clamping
area at the other end of the clamp body. A small flat bottom on the
end of the tightening screw prevents the clamped object from being
damaged.
The primary uses of C clamps are to: hold objects together while
bonding or shaping, secure objects to tables while machining, and
provide a handle which may be gripped to increase safety.
Unit 2 2-1-62 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.130 and 2.1.131 Metal Shears (Tin-Snips)

Metal Shears (Tin-Snips)

Both of these tools are basically large scissors used to cut sheet
metal. Metal shears come specifically designed for three different
cuts: straight, left, or right. Straight cuts have a yellow, plastic
handle; right cuts have a green handle; and left cuts have a red
handle. Metal shears are 10 1/4" long with 2" curved blades while tin
snips may be 7" long with 1 1/2" blades, 10" long with 2 1/4" blades,
or 12" long with 3" blades. The blades of the tin snips are straight.
Metal shears and tin snips are used to cut sheet metal. Both types of
cutters may be used to cut circles, radii, curved, or irregular cuts.
Metal shears are more specialized while tin snips are for general use.

Fig. 2.1.132 Grease Gun and Cartridge Grease

Grease Gun and Cartridge Grease

The grease gun consists of a tubular barrel 12" long and 2 1/2" in
diameter with a flexible nozzle and a 12" handle that actuates the
pump assembly. The flexible nozzle consists of an 8" rubber hose
with a pressure fitting on the end and is connected to a 4" small
diameter steel pipe that extends from the head of the gun. The grease
cartridges are 2 1/4" in diameter 9" long and are inserted in the barrel
of the gun.
The grease gun is used to service grease fittings on all models of
machines and other shop equipment.
Unit 2 2-1-63 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.133 and 2.1.134 Suction Gun

Suction Gun
This tool consists of a barrel 12" long and 2 1/2" in diameter with a
tee handle on one end and a 12" flexible hose on the other end. By
inserting the hose in the oil and pulling back on the tee handle, the oil
is drawn into the gun. To remove the oil from the gun the handle is
simply pushed back in.
The suction gun is used to remove oil from the filter housing on older
machines and can also be used to drain transmissions, differentials,
and other components on all types of machinery.

Fig. 2.1.135 and 2.1.136 Hacksaw

Hacksaw
The 208-6183 hacksaw is 16" long and 4 1/2" wide and is adjustable
to use either 8", 10" or 12" blades. The saw body without the blade
resembles a large, narrow C with a slotted handle on one end. The
saw body is made in two pieces so the length may be adjusted, and
the handle has plastic handplates for a more comfortable grip. The
blade must be installed with the angled teeth point downward
toward the front of the saw to cut properly. A wing nut below the
handle loosens and tightens the blade.
The hacksaw is used to cut mild steel plate, pipe, nuts and bolts, and
almost any other metal object that is not hardened. Square blade
pins allow the blade to be positioned parallel to the saw body or (at
right angle) to the saw body for cutting long narrow strips.
Unit 2 2-1-64 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.137 and 2.1.138 Oil Cans (Oiler, Pump)

Oil Cans
The 1B7763 oil can is approximately 12" tall and 3 1/2" in diameter.
The can, which holds the oil, is about 4" tall and 3 1/2" in diameter
with a threaded opening in the top into which the spout and pump
assembly is fastened. The pump assembly fits inside the can and is
actuated by a small movable lever above the stationary handle on the
side of the can. The spout is 8" tall and extends vertically from the
top of the can.
The oil can is used primarily for applying lubricants such as oil, but
can also be used to apply fuels and solvents. Other sizes and shapes
of pump-type oil cans are available for use in confined areas.

Fig. 2.1.139 and 2.1.140 Pry Bars

Pry Bars
The 4F5166 pry bar is made from 1" tool steel bar stock and is 30"
long with a chisel point on one end and a small semi-circular hook
on the other end.
This pry bar can be used in applications where working space is not
confined. The blunt chisel end is used for most general purposes and
the hook end is used where extreme force is needed to move the
object a short distance. Force multiplication on the hook end is
approximately 30 to 1.
Unit 2 2-1-65 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.141 and 2.1.142 Pinch Bar

Pinch Bar
The 9S1309 pinch bar is made from 1" hexagonal tool steel bar stock
and is 20" long. One end of the bar has a sharp tapered point and the
other end is shaped like the tapered portion of a large cold chisel.
The pinch bar can be used in most general applications or where
space is too confined to use a pry bar.

Fig. 2.1.143 and 2.1.144 Crowfoot Bar

Crowfoot Bar
The 5F4764 crowfoot bar is made from 9/16" round tool steel bar
stock and is 16" long. One end of the bar has a long tapered point
and the other end has a small prying tip 1" long and 1/2" wide that is
perpendicular to the shank of the bar.
The crowfoot bar can be used to pry objects in confined areas with
the prying tip and align bolt holes of parts with the tapered point
during assembly.
Unit 2 2-1-66 Caterpillar Service Industry
Lesson 1

Fig. 2.1.145 and 2.1.146 Crowbar

Crowbar
A typical crowbar is approximately 30" long and is made from 1"
hexagonal tool steel bar stock. One end of the bar tapers down to a
wedge shaped prying blade that is bent at a 20 degree angle to the
shank of the bar. The other end of the bar is curved into a semi-circle
approximately 5" in diameter. The curved end of the bar also has a
tapered wedge shaped tip, but this tip has a small vee slot in the
center in which nails are gripped.
The crowbar can be used in any prying application where space is
sufficient. The large curved end is especially suited for prying large
objects and for prying large nails.