Dollytime

Alice in Wonderland

Lewis Carroll’s story ‘Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland’ has been loved by children
for almost 150 years. Although many illustrators have depicted Alice over the years
we usually imagine her with blonde hair, a pretty blue dress and a white apron. With
this in mind I have created my own knitted version of Alice measuring 35cm (14in).
I guess she would be just the right size to squeeze down a rabbit hole!
All knitting is done with double knitting yarn. Tension is not important but the knitted
fabric should not be too loose otherwise the knitting will stretch and the stuffing will
show through the stitches. If you know your knitting tends to be very loose then I
suggest using needles one size smaller than specified. If on the other hand you are a
very tight knitter you should consider using needles one size larger than specified.
I hope you enjoy creating your own little Alice doll. If she’d like a White Rabbit as a
companion then you’ll find a pattern for him in my Etsy shop (see below).
Happy knitting
Wendy
http://flutterbypatch.blogspot.com http://dollytime.etsy.com

© 2011 Wendy Phillips. This is a copyrighted design. All rights reserved. No part of this pattern
(illustrations or text) may be copied, reproduced or transmitted. Items knitted from this pattern can be
used for charity fund raising purposes but not for commercial gain.
Materials
Pair of 3.25mm needles (US 3)
Double knitting yarn (DK yarn) in the following colours
Flesh - I currently use Hayfield Bonus ‘flesh tone’ (catalogue number is 963). This is
a British yarn so I don’t know if it is available in other countries.
Light blue (dress)
White (apron and legs)
Black (shoes and eyes)
Pale yellow (hair)
Dark pink or red embroidery floss (mouth)
Yarn sewing needle (tapestry needle)
Toy filler
Red ribbon 1cm wide to wear in hair. Also very narrow ribbon to hold key if used.
Small key (optional)

Abbreviations
K - knit
P - purl
St - stitch
St-st - stocking stitch
K2tog - knit two stitches together to make one
* * - repeat the pattern within asterisks
Yrn - yarn round needle (take yarn under the needle and back over the top)
Kfb - knit in front and back to create a new stitch. For a kfb increase you make a knit
stitch but don't slide the old stitch off the left-hand needle. To finish the increase knit
into the back of the old stitch on the left-hand needle and slide it onto the right needle.
You have made 2 stitches out of one.

For an excellent online video showing Kfb methods of increasing go to

http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases

Let’s get started

Shoes and legs

Cast on 10 stitches in black
1. purl
2. kfb across row (20st)
3. purl
4. *k1, kfb* (5 times), *kfb, k1* (5times). (30st)
5. purl
6. k6, *kfb, k2*(twice), *kfb, k1, kfb*(twice), *k2, kfb*(twice), k6 (38st)
7 – 11. st-st starting with a purl row
12. k6, *k2tog* (across row to last 6 stitches), k6 (25st)
13. purl
14. k2 *k2tog*(5 times) k1, *k2tog*(5 times), k2 (15st)
Break off black and join white
15 – 51. st-st starting with purl row
Cast off.

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Making up
Fold in half down the centre of the leg and shoe. Stitch together the two sides of the
cast-on edge at the bottom of the shoe and then up the back of the shoe to the junction
with the white leg. Mattress stitch back leg seam to the top. Fold down the top so that
you can push stuffing right down into the toe of the shoe. Add enough to stretch the
toe and lengthen it to give the shoe a pleasing shape. The shoe should be well filled
and firm before continuing to fill the leg (use small pieces of stuffing not large lumps
or the doll’s legs will be lumpy!) Fill the leg leaving 1cm empty at the top. Over sew
the top of the leg. Make a second leg.

Body and head

Cast on 32 stitches in flesh
1 – 2. knit both rows
3 – 36. st-st starting with a purl row
37. purl - (place a marker at the start of this row to show the position of the neck)
38 – 67. st-st
68. k2tog across row (16st)
69. purl
Cut yarn leaving long tail and using a tapestry needle take the 16 stitches from the
knitting needle onto the tail. This will be the top of the head and should be left open.

Leaving the cast on edge open (so that the legs can be inserted) stitch a small length
of back seam measuring approximately 5cm (2in).

Position this seam at the centre back and with wrong side facing out, insert the legs as
shown below.

Pin in place and back stitch across both legs (below)

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Turn body right side out and check the legs are firmly attached. If they are not then
work another row of back stitches close to the first.

Mattress stitch the back seam to the top (leave the marker in place at row 37). The
head and body can now be filled. Stretch the knitted fabric as you push in the stuffing
(see below).

Before gathering the neck make sure the head and body are firmly stuffed from top to
bottom. Pull the gathering yarn at the top of the head but don’t fasten off just yet.
Insert a pin at the top of the head and wrap the yarn round several times to prevent it
slipping.

You placed a marker on row 37 and this is where you will now gather the neck. Start
at the back and pick up alternate loops across this row (see below left). Pull the yarn
to draw up tightly and make a neck. Wrap yarn twice round and fasten off.

Now you can remove the pin from the top of the head and check that the head is a
good shape. I often push a bit more stuffing into the cheeks to obtain a nicely rounded
face. When happy with the head pull the yarn tightly to close the top and fasten off.

Dollytime © 2011 Wendy Phillips 4

Arms
Cast on 14 stitches in flesh
1 – 36. st-st starting with a knit row
37. k2tog across row (7sts)
38. purl
Cut the yarn leaving a long tail and using a tapestry needle take the 7 stitches from the
knitting needle onto the tail. Gather tightly to close gap. This gathered end will be the
hand. Use the remaining tail to stitch the seam all the way up the arm to the cast on
edge. Begin stuffing the hand and arm using small pieces of filler and work your way
up leaving the top 12mm (half inch) un-filled. Over sew the top of the arm.

Thread a needle with flesh coloured yarn and secure (at the seam) on the 10th row.
Pick up alternate loops across this row as you did for the neck. Gather to create a
wrist. Wrap round once more and fasten off at the seam.

Make a second arm. Pin arms to doll’s shoulders and stitch the top of each arm to the
body. By leaving a space at the top ‘un-stuffed’ the dolls arms should move freely.

Strap for shoe (make two)

Cast on 15 stitches in black
Cast off and leave 15cm (6in) tail attached.
Stretch the strap to straighten it and place it over the top of the foot. Position as shown
below and pin. It should only stretch from one side to the other and not right round the
back of the foot. Use the tails of yarn on each end to back stitch the strap to the foot

Attach a tiny button or bead at the side. Alternatively, if child safety is a

consideration, make 3 small stitches in a contrasting shade to represent a button.

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Face
As a general rule, doll’s eyes are positioned centrally on the face. It’s a good idea to
place lengths of coloured thread across the centre of the face (horizontally and
vertically) and then mark the position of eyes and mouth with coloured pins.

Alice’s eyes should be positioned just above the horizontal line and the mouth on the
vertical line close to the bottom.

Making eyes
If you are familiar with my patterns you will know how fond I am of using the
‘knotted yarn’ method for eyes. They are quick and easy to make and create no danger
for young children.

To make one eye you need 4 lengths of black DK yarn each measuring 25cm (10in).
To create an eye, take this bundle of four and tie a knot in the centre. Pull to tighten.
Now tie a second knot exactly over the first and pull firmly to tighten. This big knot
will make one eye. Make a second eye using the same method.

NB. A needle with a large eye that can be threaded with 4 lengths of yarn is
useful for inserting these eyes but if you don’t have one then work with 2 lengths
of yarn at a time, the result will be the same. I use the second method and it’s
easy to do.

Inserting the eyes

Thread your needle with yarn from one side of the knot. Pass the needle through the
head in the position marked with a pin. Bring the needle out at the back of the head.
Don’t fasten off. Thread the needle with yarn from the other side of the knot and pass
through the stitch which is next to the first one. Bring the yarn ends through to the
back of the head as before. Pull the two groups of yarn ends until the eye is in the
correct position but don’t fasten off yet. Repeat this process for the second eye.

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Make sure both eyes are well spaced and just where you want them. If not then simply
take hold of the knots and pull them out of the head and then insert them again in a
better position. When you are satisfied that the eyes are positioned correctly tie each
set of yarn ends together, pulling gently to create a small eye socket. Now the eyes
cannot be moved.

Alice’s mouth
Split the red embroidery floss and use 3 strands. Before starting, decide what shape
you want the mouth to be, ‘u’ shapes or ‘v’ shapes are best. Stitch a small mouth in
the position you marked with a pin.

Hair – You might want to leave Alice without hair until you’ve finished making
her clothes. I tend do this as it’s much easier to try clothes on a doll before her
hair is attached.

Alice in Wonderland is always depicted with blond hair and so I suggest using a
pretty pale yellow. The yarn I used is a pale butter colour but the photographs tend to
make it look slightly darker.

Alice’s hair is stitched from the centre front to the centre back (blue yarn and pins
show stitching line below).

Wind the yarn several times around a book measuring approximately 20cm (8in). Cut
the loops at one end and remove the strands of hair. Place them on the front and top of
the head and back stitch in position. Continue adding hair in this way, across the top
of the head and down the back.

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When you have added sufficient hair you need to cover the stitching at the back of the
head with a single bundle of hair. Attached this to the top of the head (see picture
below) and take it down the back to cover the stitches.

Smooth the hair down all around the head. Wrap and tie a length of contrasting yarn
round the head to hold the hair in place. Back stitch the hair to the head just above the
contrasting yarn (see below).

Make a final bundle of hair and stitch this to the centre front (see below).

You will need a length of narrow ribbon approximately 20cm (8in) long. Tie a bow in
the centre and use matching sewing thread to make several small stitches through the
bow to prevent it slipping.

Place the bow centrally on the head and pin in place. Stitch the bow to the head to
stop it slipping.

Trim the ribbon each side leaving enough to fold inwards and make neat edges that
won’t fray. Stitch each end of the ribbon in the position as shown below.

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Divide the hair that is attached to the front of the head and take a bundle down each
side of the face and stitch in place so it covers the bottom of the ribbon (see below)

Trim Alice’s hair to the required length (front and back). Finally, using a red pencil
crayon or bees wax crayon, give her rosie cheeks.

Frilly panties - start with the first leg

Cast on 76 stitches in white
1 – 2. knit
3. k2tog across row (38st)
4. k2tog across row (19st)
5. purl
6. knit
Place these 19 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Second leg – cast on 76 stitches and work as first leg to row 6.
7. purl this row and then put the saved stitches from the holder onto the empty needle
and purl these so that you have a total of 38 stitches on one needle.
8. knit. Place a marker in contrasting yarn at the start of this row
9 – 24 st-st starting with a purl row
25 – 29. *k1, p1* across row to create rib.
Cast off in k1, p1, rib.

Making up - Stitch the back seam from the top down to the marker that you
inserted on row 8. With the seam at the back, stitch the edges of each frill together
and the inside leg. Close any gaps at the bottom of the panties between the legs.
Remove the row marker if you haven’t already done so.

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Put the panties on the doll. They will fit closely to the body and can be stitched to the
body round the waist to keep them in place. If you prefer the panties to be removable
then I recommend threading some narrow elastic round the top.

Dress front
Cast on 56 stitches in blue
1 – 4. st-st starting with a knit row
5. (picot row) k1, *yrn, k2tog* across row to last stitch, k1
6 – 14. st-st
Join white but don’t break blue as you can carry it up the side of the work
15 - 16. knit both rows (white)
17 – 20. st-st starting with a knit row (blue)
21 – 22. knit both rows (white)
Break off white and continue in blue
23 – 44. st-st starting with a knit row
45. k2tog across row (28st)
46 – 52. st-st
53. cast off 2 stitches and knit to end of row (26st)
54. cast off 2 stitches and purl to end of row (24st)
55 – 65. st-st
66. purl 7 stitches and put remaining 17 stitches on a stitch holder.
Continue working on the 7 stitches on your needle
67 – 69. st-st
Cast off

Replace the 17 stitches from the holder onto an empty needle.

Cast off 10 stitches purlwise then purl to the end of the row
Work 3 rows in st-st on the remaining 7 stitches
Cast off.

Dress back
Cast on 56 stitches in blue
1 – 4. st-st starting with a knit row
5. (picot row) k1, *yrn, k2tog* across row to last stitch, k1
6 – 14. st-st
Join white but don’t break blue as you can carry it up the side of the work
15 - 16. knit both rows (white)
17 – 20. st-st starting with a knit row (blue)
21 – 22. knit both rows (white)
Break off white and continue in blue
23 – 44. st-st starting with a knit row
45. k2tog across row (28st)
46. purl

Dollytime © 2011 Wendy Phillips 10

Divide for back opening
47. k14 and put remaining 14 stitches on a stitch holder

Right side
Cast on 4 stitches at start of row and then continue on the 14 stitches that remain on
the needle (18st)
48. k4, p14
49. knit
50 - 51. repeat rows 48 and 49
52. k4, p14
53. cast off 2 stitches, knit to the last 3 stitches, yrn, k2tog, k1 (buttonhole) (16st)
54. k4, p12
55. knit
56 – 65. repeat rows 54 and 55 (5 times)
66. k4, p12
67. knit to the last 3 stitches, yrn, k2tog, k1 (buttonhole)
68. k4, p12
69. knit
70. cast off 9 stitches and p7
Cast off

Left side
Replace the 14 stitches from the holder onto your needle.
Starting from the centre back, join yarn to work.
Cast on 4 stitches and then continue on the 14 stitches on the needle (18st).
48. p14, k4
49. knit
50 – 53. Repeat rows 48 and 49 (twice)
54. cast off 2 stitches, p12, k4 (16st)
55. knit
56. p12, k4
57 – 68. Repeat rows 55 and 56 (6 times)
69. knit
70. cast off 9 stitches, p7
Cast off

Sleeve
Cast on 19 stitches in blue
1. knit
2. purl
3. kfb across row (38st)
4. purl
5. kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb (40st)
6. purl
Join white but don’t break off blue
7. knit (white)
8. knit (white)
Break off white and continue in blue
9. cast off 2 stitches, knit to end (38st)
10. cast off 2 stitches, purl to end (36st)

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11. cast off 2 stitches, knit to end (34st)
12. cast off 2 stitches, purl to end (32st)
13. knit
14. purl
15. k1, k2tog to last stitch, k1 (17st)
16. purl
17. k1, k2tog across row (9st)
18. purl
Cast off

Making up
Position the buttonhole band over the band without buttonholes. Close the small hole
which might have appeared where the back was divided and stitch the cast on edge of
the buttonhole band firmly in place. Stitch the shoulder seams (I used back stitch)

Mark the centre top of each sleeve with a pin. With right sides facing, pin the sleeves
to the armholes all the way round and back stitch in place.
Mattress stitch the side seams from the bottom to the armhole. Stitch the sleeve seam.
Turn up the picot hem to give the bottom of the dress a scalloped edge and pin in
place (don’t press the hem until the dress is finished). Stitch the hem all round using
small loose stitches. Lightly press the hem and skirt on the wrong side with a cool
iron. Finally attach two buttons.

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Apron
Cast on 30 in white.
1 – 4. knit all rows
5. k3, p24, k3
6. knit
7 – 34. repeat rows 5 and 6
35. k3, p24, k3
36. k2tog across row (15st)
37 – 40. knit all rows
41. k2, p11, k2
42. knit
43 – 52. repeat rows 41 and 42 (5 times)
53 – 55. Knit
Cast off

Weave loose ends into the back of the apron. Press lightly with a cool iron on the
wrong side. Make two twisted cords for waist ties and two for neck ties and stitch
these to the apron (alternatively you can use white tape or ribbon).

When Alice fell down the rabbit hole she found a tiny key for a tiny door that led to a
beautiful garden. So I decided this little Alice should wear a tiny key on a ribbon
round her neck in case she wanted to return to the rabbit hole looking for more
adventures in Wonderland. The key is of course optional and not suitable for very
young children to play with. The tiny one I used belonged to an old jewellery box.

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