Note to self: Prioritize studying safety stuff instead of the process of soldering.

Safety Specific Notes:

Safety Video Stuff:
- Inspect your equipment and be familiar with the MSDS for the type of soldering materials
you are using
- Only perform soldering in a well-ventilated area
- Be aware of the hot and sharp iron at all times
- Place it in a proper holder while working
- Secure the work pieces to make sure that they do not move while soldering
- Make sure the soldering iron is cool before putting it away
- Know burn first aid procedures
- Clean up your workspace and store your tools

Safety Glasses:
- Must wear as molten solder at the end of a wire or lead can be flicked off and hit you
- Keep in mind that it is over 200°C so it will permanently damage your eyes
- Always wear safety glasses when soldering

For a good solder joint remember the following steps:

- Clean the tip every time with a wet sponge, or a brass sponge.
- Apply solder (tinning) to the tip to help transfer heat

Solder Iron Care & Maintenance:

- A soldering iron must be coated with a thin coat of solder
- This will allow the transfer of heat to the workpiece
- This procedure is called tinning
- The tip must be kept coated with a shiny layer of solder by occasional wiping and
then applying solder directly to the tip

Soldering Safety Steps:

- 1. Make sure the sponge is damp. (If not using a brass sponge)
- 2. Clean the tip of the soldering iron so that it is shiny.
- 3. Hold the soldering iron on the track and the leg of the component for 3 seconds
- 4. Touch the solder against these so that just enough solder runs onto both.
- 5. Remove the solder and the soldering iron and allow to cool
- AT NO POINT TOUCH THE TIP OF THE SOLDERING IRON OR REST IT ON THE
CABLE!

General Soldering Safety Steps:

- When you are not using the soldering iron put it in the holder provided
- Make sure you have a heat mat under the soldering iron and holder.
- Make sure the room is well ventilated when soldering
 - Only one person should be soldering at a time.
- Do not touch the soldering iron to see if is on
- Always wear goggles when you solder.
- Wipe the iron on the damp sponge provided to clean it.
- Always tin the soldering iron tip before you start soldering.
- If you do burn yourself on the iron, run the burn under running cool water for a minimum
of fifteen minutes (for second degree burns) and minimum of five minutes (for first
degree burns)

First Degree Burns:

- Cause minimal skin damage
- Called “superficial burns” as they only affect the outermost layer skin
- Signs:
- Redness
- Minor inflammation (swelling)
- Pain
- Dry, peeling skin (occurs as the burn heals)
- To treat this type of burn:
- Soak the wound in cool water for five minutes or longer
- Take acetaminophen or ibuprofen for pain relief
- Apply aloe vera gel or cream to soothe the skin
- Use an antibiotic ointment and loose gauze to protect the affected area
Second Degree Burns:
- More serious than 1st degree as the damage goes beyond the top layer of skin
- Causes extensive damage as the skin starts to blister and become extremely red and
sore
- Some blisters pop open, giving the burn a wet appearance
- To treat a mild second degree burn:
- Running the skin under cool water for 15 minutes or longer
- Taking over-the-counter pain medication (acetaminophen or ibuprofen)
- Applying antibiotic cream to blisters
Third Degree Burns:
- Worst burns--cause the most damage, extending through every layer of skin
- The damage can even reach the bloodstream, major organs, and bones, which can lead
to death.
- There is a misconception that third-degree means the most painful. With this type of
burn, the damage is so extensive that you may not feel pain because your nerves are
damaged.
- Depending on the cause, third-degree burns cause the skin to look:
- Waxy and white
- Charred
- Dark brown
- Raised and leathery
- Never attempt to self-treat a third-degree burn. Call 911 immediately.
Other stuff about burns:
- When applying first aid to first and second degree burns make sure you don’t use ice,
as this may make the damage worse.
- Never apply cotton balls to a burn because the small fibers can stick to the injury and
increase the risk of infection.
- Also, avoid home remedies like butter and eggs as these are not proven to be effective.

Other Stuff about Soldering:

Why Solder?
- Physical Connection
- A soldered connection between a component and the PCB (Printed Circuit
Board) or between a wire and a terminal is very strong. Usually another part will
break before it will. Also, it will never come apart under heavy vibration.
- Electrical Connection
A soldered connection provides an excellent pathway for electrons to flow
through. Solder has resistance similar to that of components and wires it is
bonding together.

What Types of Electronics can you solder?

- Through-hole components
- Surface Mount components

Terms:
- Heat Sink
- Used to help draw away heat from sensitive components (like semiconductors)
that are damaged when exposed to excessive heat.
- During the soldering process a heat sink (like an alligator clip) may be used to
protect the component.
- Tinning
- The process of applying a thin layer of solder.
- Soldering irons must be constantly tinned to protect the tip of the iron from
oxidation.
- Stranded wires are tinned to stop them from fraying and make it easier to solder
to other components.
- Tip Temperature
- Refers to what the temperature is at the end of the soldering iron. Effective
soldering requires the tip to reach a required temperature.
- Wetting
- Is the action of solder dissolving and penetrating the copper surface. This
intermetallic bond forms a new alloy. This happens when both the solder and
copper are hot.
 - Also, the copper must be free of contaminants and oxides for the bonding to
occur.
- Wicking
- Refers to when solder, in its liquid state, is drawn or absorbed into stranded wires
by capillary action. Braided wire or solder wick is used to remove solder from a
joint when a component is being removed

What is Soldering?
- Soldering is the method we use for joining electronic components together.
- Lead solder is a metal alloy of Tin and Lead
- Lead-free solder consists of Tin, Copper, and Silver
- Its core is made of Rosin Flux
- Lead solder melts around 200°C.
- Lead-free solder melts between 217°C - 221°C

Types of Solder:
- Leaded
- Pb, Tin
- Lower melting temperature
- Sticks to itself
- Does contain lead
- EU banned, CA hard to find
- Unleaded
- Tin, copper, silver
- No lead = higher melting temperature
- More difficult to use
- “Rosin core” / flux
- Fumes

What is solder?
- Solder is an alloy of tin and lead.
- The solder used for electronics is frequently called 60/40 solder because it is
made of 63% tin and 37% lead
- 60/40 solder melts at 361° F.
- Lead-free solder: As of July 1st, 2006, European laws mandated that new electronics be
entirely lead-free.
- Non-electronic devices made after July 2003 cannot contain lead

Tools used in Soldering:

- Soldering iron
- Stand with sponge
- PCB holder
- Soldering iron with brass sponge
- Wire stripper
 - Solder wire
- Nose plier
- Desoldering Pump
- If a component has to be removed from a PCB (Printed Circuit Board) the solder
must first be removed.
- Push the plunger down until it clicks.
- Put a hot iron on one side of the lead on the solder. On the other side of the lead
place the nozzle of the desoldering pump.
- When the solder turns to liquid, press the button on the desoldering pump.
- The plunger will spring back creating a vacuum inside the pump, which will suck
up the liquid solder.

About the Soldering Iron:

- Common soldering irons are rated between 25-30 watts.
- The iron is there to provide heat to the pad and lead. It does not apply solder to the joint
- When it’s not in use make sure solder is applied to the tip to protect it. Before every
use check the cord for damage. If there is, inform the instructor right away.
- Also, place the cord so that it can’t get caught and pulled on.
- Warning: the tip of the iron is greater than 200°C. Never touch the end of the iron even
when unplugged
- If the solder melts but doesn't stick, then your tip probably has a thin oxide layer.
- Try again to melt some solder to the tip, then immediately wipe it off on the brass
sponge.
- Repeat this process a few times to slowly remove stubborn oxide layers

What does Flux do:

- Improves the bonding of the joints: It ensures that the two areas you are joining
together bond firmly.
- Cleans surfaces before soldering: This is especially important for areas that are difficult
to clean, such as metals that are oxidized or contaminated with oils.
- Improves the wetting of solder: It ensures that the solder flows wholly and evenly
around the joint, which is necessary for a strong and reliable electrical connection.
- Prevents oxidation: It prevents the formation of oxides which can weaken the
connection between the surfaces.

Types of Joints: (Not really going to be tested)

- Western Union Wire Joint (Connected in a line)
- Rat tails (Tied together in the same direction)
- T-Tap Wire Joint (Forms a T)

Steps to Solder:
- View the slideshow (provides images as well)
Soldering Techniques (Watch video and take notes):
- Step 1: Heat up your iron (315-370 degrees celsius)
- Step 2: Make your connection mechanically stable (Use helping hands and slightly bend
lads of through-hole components, or if necessary, use stick tape)
- Step 3: Clean your iron (The surfaces of hot metals quickly build up an oxide layer,
which inhibits heat transfer and solder adhesion) You can clean it using a brass
sponge. Rosin acts like a flux and eats away the oxides. The smoke from soldering is
actually the flux not the actual solder
- Step 4: Apply heat and solder (Heat the joint evenly and let the solder flow onto it. Don’t
put solder directly onto the iron.) Ensure good contact between the iron and the joint.
Tinning the iron (adding a small amount of solder to the tip) can help with heat transfer.
Give the joint time to cool.
- Step 5: Inspect the joint. (Did the solder wet to both surfaces? Is the joint smooth and
shiny? Is there too much or too little solder?)