Low Stress Handling of Dogs & Cats Workbook

SECTION
Low Stress Handling of Dogs & Cats

Certification Workbook
THE ART & SCIENCE OF ANIMAL BEHAVIOR
August 2014 Update
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Low Stress Handling of Dogs & Cats
Certification Workbook
Low Stress Handling of Dogs & Cats Certification Workbook
By Sophia Yin, DVM, MS
Copyright ©2014 by Sophia A. Yin
ISBN: 978-0-9914953-2-0
Editor: Cheryl Kolus, DVM

Graphic Designers: Larry Peters and April Kimmerly (www.pkcreate.com)
Illustrator: Lili Chin (www.doggiedrawings.net)
All Rights Reserved: This book is protected by copyright. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or
means, electronic or mechanical, including recording, photocopying, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without the
written permission of the copyright owner.
Disclaimer:
The publisher and the author make no representation or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this
work and specifically disclaim all warranties, including without limitation warranties of fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty
may be created or extended by sales or promotional materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for every
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nor the author shall be liable for damages arising heretofore. The fact that an organization or web site is referred to in this work as a
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For free information, as well as to view other products by Dr. Sophia Yin, go to www.drsophiayin.com.
CattleDog Publishing, A Veterinary Corporation

P.O. Box 4516
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Email: [email protected] or [email protected]
www.drsophiayin.com
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Acknowledgements
Projects like this can’t be accomplished alone. They require the help of editors, proofers, fact checkers, graphic designers, illustrators,
and students, interns, and staff to test the materials out. I would like to especially thank intern and veterinary student, Sophie Liu, who
working non-stop to transcribe the Gold-Level scoring rubric from our lab and workshop videos onto paper during her one month
summer internship; veterinary technician, Jenna Hardy who jumped into this project immediately and whole-heartedly when she
joined our behavior team; and most of all, behavior research technician and my most experienced team member, Lynna Feng. Lynna
meticulously reviewed the work of other team members, checked facts, drafted protocols, coordinated the testing and revising of the
Gold Level certification rubrics, and provided thorough edits to the lab and workshop video programs. We will miss Lynna when she
goes off to complete a Master’s in Applied Statistical Analysis followed by a Ph.D. in Animal Behavior. But we’ll always remember the
fun we had working with her on projects like this one.
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Table of Contents for Low Stress Handling Certification Workbook
Test Yourself to See What You Already Know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Introduction and Tips for Learning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Chapter 1: Lecture: Recognizing Brewing Fear and Aggression in Dogs and Cats (Lecture 1 in
Creating the Pet-Friendly Hospital, Animal Shelter or Petcare Business) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
1. Discussion Questions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
2. Sample Student Outlines for Lecture on Body Language of Fear And Aggression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
3. Practice Exercises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
4. Gold Certification Rubric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Chapter 2: Lecture: Rapid Reversal of Fear and Aggression in Dogs and Cats (Lecture 2 in Creating
the Pet-Friendly Hospital, Animal Shelter or Petcare Business) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Chapter 3: Lecture: Low Stress Handling and Restraint of Difficult Dogs and Cats (Lecture 3 in
Creating the Pet-Friendly Hospital, Animal Shelter or Petcare Business) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Chapter 4: Lecture: What Giraffes, Dogs, and Chickens Have in Common—Training Techniques
that Work for All Creatures (Lecture 1 in Pet Dogs, Problem Dogs, High Performance Dogs: How Science Can
Take Your Training to a New Level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Chapter 5: Feline Lab: Towel Wrap Techniques for Handling Cats with Skill and Ease (from DVD of the
same title) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
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LOW STRESS HANDLING CERTIFICATION WORKBOOK
Chapter 6: Lecture: Kitty Kindergarten: Creating the New Improved Cat Through Early Socialization
(online lecture only, DVD production in process) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Chapter 7: Canine Lab 1: Essential Exercises for Moving Dogs from Place to Place (From Handling,
Moving, and Restraining Dogs in Stressful Environments, Part 1: A Workshop on Essential Exercises with
Special Techniques for Medium and Large Dogs) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Chapter 8: Canine Lab 2: Handling and Restraining Medium-sized and Large Dogs with Skill and Ease
(From Handling, Moving, and Restraining Dogs in Stressful Environments, Part 1: A Workshop on Essential
Exercises with Special Techniques for Medium and Large Dogs) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
1. Discussion Questions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106

2. Practice Exercises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
3. Gold Certification Rubric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Chapter 9: Canine Lab 3: Handling and Restraining Small and Medium-Sized Dogs with Skill and Ease
(From Handling, Moving, and Restraining Dogs in Stressful Environments: Part 2: A Tutorial on Counter-
conditioning and Low Stress Handling with Special Techniques for Small and Medium-sized Dogs) . . . . 119

Chapter 10: Canine Lab 4: Desensitization and Counterconditioning: Teaching Dogs to Willingly Accept
Medical Procedures (From Handling, Moving, and Restraining Dogs in Stressful Environments: Part 2: A
Tutorial on Counterconditioning and Low Stress Handling with Special Techniques for Small and Medium-
sized Dogs) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137

Gold-Level Certification Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151

Instructor-Level Certification Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Discussion Question Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
Glossary of Useful Animal Behavior Definitions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
TEST YOURSELF TO SEE WHAT YOU ALREADY KNOW
What You Will Learn: Test Yourself to See What You Already Know
Here’s a sampling of what you’ll learn in the Low Stress Handling Certification program. See what you can answer, and once you’ve
completed the program, test yourself again!
1. This cat has come for its first visit and spends most of the visit in
this position. Is the cat relaxed or anxious? Explain. (From Lecture 1)
2. You enter the exam room and this dog is barking at you while wagging
his tail. Does the wagging tail mean that the dog is friendly?
Explain. (From Lecture 1)
3. The dog starts pacing and whining when separated from his owners.
He focused on you for rewards when the owners were present, but now
that they’re gone he’s just pacing.
Next he rolls on his side and places his paws on you. Does this mean
that he wants to play and is soliciting a belly rub? Explain your answer.
(From Lecture 1)
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4. Which of these holds controls movement of the front end in more

directions: the arm-around-the-chest hold or the collar hold? Note
that this dog is being lured forward by someone holding treats.
(From Canine Lab 3)
Arm hold on a small dog Collar hold on a small dog
5. The technician has walked the dog into this position and is now
attempting to place the dog into a sit. List three aspects of this
handling that are unsafe and what the handler should be doing
instead. (From Canine Lab 2)
6. The general approach to modifying behavior is to reward desired

behaviors and remove rewards for unwanted behavior. Provide two
reasons why this is different from rewarding desired behavior and
ignoring unwanted behavior. (From Lecture 4)
7. Without scruffing, boxes or bags, a towel wrap, or clipnosis, how

can you restrain a cat in a way that controls movement in all six
directions without increasing the cat’s stress and arousal? (From
Lecture 3 and Canine Lab 3)
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8. List three mistakes you see with this photo. What mistakes is
the handler making regarding leash-handling technique and body
language, and why will these mistakes cause dogs to pull on leash?
(From Canine Lab 1)
9. Describe five improvements that can be made to make this waiting

room environment more inviting and less stressful for pets. (From
Lecture 3)
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Answers:
1. A comfortable cat should explore the room. This cat is stationary with tail tucked and feet tucked into his body because he’s
nervous. This behavior is a form of freezing.
2. A wagging tail indicates the dog is excited, not necessarily friendly. Dogs can wag their tails like this when they have no friendly
intentions such as just before chasing a cat or a squirrel.
3. See Lecture 3 for the answer.
4. While the arm-around-the-chest hold involves a greater surface area of coverage, it controls only left, right, forward and down. A
dog can still jump up or step over the arm. The collar hold controls movement left, right, forward, down and up.
7. Place a loose ring hold around the neck to control movement of the front end in five directions (right, left, forward, up, down). To
prevent movement to the sides you can place one or both arms along each side.

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Then once the cat is calmer, you can switch to placing just one arm against one side, for instance, to prevent lateral movement to
the right and place the same-sided hand in front of the cat to prevent forward movement and then, your left hand is free to perform
a procedures such as ausculting the chest using a stethoscope. Note that when ausculting on the left side you will also be preventing
movement towards the left. Note also that you can change back to the ring hold as needed if the cat starts to try to jump up.
8. In the incorrect photo, the handler is holding the leash tight between her right and left hands, and it’s also tight between her and
the dog. The leash is tight all the time. As soon as she switches to holding the leash so that it’s in a loose U (photo below) and makes
sure the leash is only tight for 1-2 seconds when she’s guiding the dog in a new direction, the dog walks next to and focuses on
her. When the leash is held tight all the time, dogs learn that there’s nothing they can do to increase the slack. If you can
make it clear to them that walking next to your side leads to a loose leash—plus they get to walk instead of having to
stop and stand stationary—you can quickly get polite walking and even good focus. (From Canine Lab 1)
9. Refer to Lecture 3 or Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats.
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INTRODUCTION AND TIPS FOR LEARNING
Introduction and Tips for Learning

The purpose of this study guide is to help you get the most out of the Silver Online Certification course and to prepare you for higher
levels of certification (Gold-Level and Instructor-Level). While the course lectures and labs will allow you to become familiar with
aspects of Low Stress Handling, you’ll need to study and practice to become well versed in the information and techniques such that
you can articulate the information accurately and without hesitation. Furthermore, if you plan to apply this to the fullest to everyday
practice and/or achieve higher levels of certification, you will need to know the information in great detail. This guide provides study
tips, discussion questions and practice exercises that will help you learn the information at a detailed level and apply the information
right away. It is also recommended that you study with colleagues or friends.
Learn the material fluently rather than just

being familiar with it. When speaking a new
language, you are fluent when you can immediately
and accurately respond in conversation with a
correct accent without stopping to think. People
can understand what you are saying. There is
no ambiguity. Fluency in behavior modification
requires that, in addition to being able to perform
techniques, you can immediately and accurately
articulate answers to questions on the topic and
instruct others in an organized, efficient manner.
You are either fluent in the material or you are not.
You cannot become more fluent.
To complete Silver Certification you’ll just need to answer some multiple-choice questions correctly at the end of each lecture and at the
end of the entire program. To go on to Gold Certification (skills assessment) you’ll need to learn the information in incredible detail.
We suggest that you take the following steps. These are the steps that our behavior interns follow. We have tested this process and found
it leads to the quickest and most thorough learning.
1. Make a detailed outline of the lectures. (See two examples in Chapter 1 of this workbook, Recognizing Brewing Fear and
Aggression in Dogs and Cats.)
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2. Answer the discussion questions in this workbook, ideally by writing down the answers fully and then discussing
them with colleagues or friends. Be careful to answer the question that is actually asked. Proper word choice is crucial
when providing answers to clients. Start by practicing with these discussion sets.
3. Practice the techniques—first on stuffed animals, then on calm animals and then on those that are more challenging.
4. Once you feel comfortable answering the discussion questions for a given chapter, practice leading or facilitating
discussion sessions. That is, for a given chapter, lead others through a discussion session by asking them the questions,
knowing the answers well enough to guide them in the right direction and being able to explain why their answers may be
fully or partially right or wrong. Also be able to provide outside examples to help explain the material. You are considered
knowledgeable on the topics once you can teach the discussion material in an efficient and successful manner, such that your
“students” can learn it and you are able to field the myriad questions that might pop up.
5. Practice the lab techniques using the Gold-Level Scoring Rubrics to help ensure that you are performing all of the
required points correctly. This hands-on practice is essential for understanding the lecture and lab principles well.
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6. Once you feel comfortable performing the hands-on techniques, help others learn the techniques too. Be able to
identify what they are doing correctly and incorrectly, and determine when techniques provide the necessary support
and safety and cause the least stress. Once you can perform the techniques and also assist others in learning the material,
you are ready to consider going on to Gold Certification.
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Study Tips
Some people are born extra brainy. They can absorb information like a basking otter absorbs the sun, and they can somehow remember
all the facts without picking up a pen. The rest of us have to work to build up our brain. While this brain-building may take some
practice, it doesn’t have to be painful. Here are three simple steps.
Overview of the 3-Step Study Process
1. You only remember 10% of what you hear. So take good notes!
2. Reorganize your notes in a manner that allows you to group information together so it’s easier to remember.
3. Study the information enough so that you actually know it well rather than just being familiar with it.
Where did this 3-step approach come from? It’s an answer to three specific learning challenges.
Challenge #1: It’s difficult to absorb and remember all of the information you hear.
In fact, we only remember 10% of what we hear—in class, at the doctor’s office, when watching TV, when talking to our friends, etc.
This low retention even includes cases where we understand all of the information.
Solution #1: Take notes, or at least create an outline, so you have access to at least 90% of what was covered instead of
the typical 10%. The details are important!
Challenge #2: It’s difficult and often overwhelming to memorize many separate bits of information.
For instance, which set of numbers is easier to memorize?
3269863543 or 326 – 986 – 3543
Most likely you chose the one where the numbers were grouped. It’s difficult to memorize many separate bits of information. It’s easier
to remember facts that are grouped into appropriate categories.
Let’s look at another example. Look at the notes in Sample A and compare them to the notes in Sample B. The only difference is how
they are organized.
Sample Notes A:
Methods for modifying behavior

There are several different methods for modifying behavior.
The first method is habituation. Habituation is when an animal initially responds to some stimulus such as the sound of a
train or the sight of a car roaring by, but over time, with repeated exposure to the stimulus in the absence of any aversive
or pleasurable experience, the response diminishes. In other words, habituation means that the animal “gets used to it.”
Habituation can be subdivided into two categories: flooding and desensitization.
With flooding you expose the animal to the full-force stimulus. Ideally the animal would gradually get used to the sound;
however, one problem with flooding is that if the animal is extremely fearful of the stimulus, flooding can actually sensitize
him, thus making him more fearful of the same-level stimulus. With desensitization you start far away from the stimulus or
somehow weaken the stimulus. As the animal gets used to the low-level stimulus, you gradually increase the strength of the
stimulus. Ideally the level would increase slowly enough so that the animal never actually reacts fearfully to the stimulus or
else he could become sensitized. Another major category of behavior modification is counter-conditioning, of which there
are two types. With classical counterconditioning we classically condition a new association. For instance, if a cat is fearful
of crates, we teach him that good things happen when he’s near the crate (i.e., he gets food when he goes near or into the
crate). We usually combine counter-conditioning with desensitization.
Operant counterconditioning is when you train an alternate, incompatible behavior. For instance, if a dog lunges and
barks every time he sees other dogs across the street, you can train the aggressive dog to watch you and go through other
obedience exercises when he sees dogs. Thus the routine changes from “see other dogs and bark like a maniac” to “see
other dogs and pay attention to owner” because it’s time to do some fun heeling exercises where he will get treats for good
behavior.
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Sample Notes B:
I. Methods of behavior modification
A. Habituation: Habituation is when an animal initially responds to some stimulus such as the sound of a train or
the sight of a car roaring by, but over time, with repeated exposure to the stimulus in the absence of any aversive
or pleasurable experience, the response diminishes. In other words, habituation means that the animal “gets used to
it.” Habituation can be subdivided into two categories: flooding and desensitization.
1. Flooding: With flooding you expose the animal to the full-force stimulus. Ideally the animal would gradually
get used to the sound; however, one problem with flooding is that if the animal is extremely fearful of the
stimulus, flooding can actually sensitize him thus making him more fearful of the same-level stimulus.
2. Desensitization: With desensitization you start far away from the stimulus or somehow weaken the stimulus. As
the animal gets used to the low-level stimulus, you gradually increase the strength of the stimulus. Ideally the
level would increase slowly enough so that the animal never actually reacts fearfully to the stimulus or else he
could become sensitized.
B. Counterconditioning
1. Classical counterconditioning: With classical counter-conditioning we classically condition a new association.

If a cat is fearful of crates, we teach him that good things happen when he’s near the crate (i.e., he gets food when
he goes near or into the crate). We usually combine counter-conditioning with desensitization.
2. Operant counterconditioning: With operant counter-conditioning, you train an alternate, incompatible behavior.
For instance, if a dog lunges and barks every time he sees other dogs across the street, you can train the aggressive
dog to watch you and go through other obedience exercises when he sees dogs. Thus the routine changes from
“see other dogs and bark like a maniac” to “see other dogs and pay attention to owner” because it’s time to do
some fun heeling exercises where he will get treats for good behavior.
Sample B is much easier to understand and absorb, isn’t it? Read the following points about how organization can make a huge
difference in your learning.
1. It’s difficult to memorize information as a series of random facts. You can learn information much better if you categorize
it into topics and sub-topics. Once you do this, it’s easier to see that rather than learning 10-15 pieces of information
per lecture, you just have 3-5 sets of information to learn. For instance, it’s difficult to learn a series of nine numbers but easy
to remember three groups of numbers. This is why phone numbers and social security numbers are displayed in groups
of 2-4 numbers.
2. Rewriting and reorganizing lecture notes can be time-consuming, but it allows you to see the patterns of information better,
which helps you integrate the information with things you learn outside of class or in other classes.
3. Another benefit to rewriting notes is that you can use the outline format as a study guide. You can quiz yourself by looking
at a heading and writing from memory the subheadings and information under each one. For those who use the flashcard
technique, this note reorganization and rewriting takes the flashcard-making step out of studying.
Solution #2: Reorganize your notes into an outline format so that the information is grouped in a manner that helps you
see how information is categorized.
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Challenge #3: Recognizing the material isn’t the same as knowing the material.
1. Based on your notes and the topics you’re studying, ask yourself questions and write down the answers so that you’re sure you
can express the answers in words that make sense. Quiz yourself on all of the important points of the lecture. This is why
you need excellent notes. For instance, if the lecture is on the four methods of modification, your first quiz question might be,
“Define the four methods of behavior modification.” A second might be to give an example for each category. A third question
might be to ask yourself which categories we should use and why, or list the benefits or disadvantages of the various
categories. You should also practice explaining the answers aloud to a friend or to yourself. Saying or writing the words
is different than thinking of them in your head.
2. For each question you ask, drill yourself over and over on the answer until you can answer immediately without thinking. Then
go to the next question. Then later in the study session, go back and answer the same questions again. Repeat some of the same
questions the next day. Once you know the answers, it should not take long to repeat them. You do not know the material well
enough until you can answer the questions both accurately and without hesitation.
3. To help recognize how the information appears in real life, search the internet for examples that illustrate various topics. For
instance, you could watch Youtube® videos and see if they use the terminology correctly. If not, explain why the terminology or
other information in the video is incorrect. You could read viewer questions and practice answering them in a scientific manner
that shows that you understand why they may have a misunderstanding of the material or why they may be making a common
mistake and how they can improve what they’re doing.
When you understand the material fluently, you’ll feel like an expert on the topic (at least on the specific information that was covered
in the lecture). That means you’d feel comfortable tutoring someone else on the material. You really don’t know the material well unless
you can actually teach it.
Solution #3: Learn the material vs. just recognizing it. Once you have the information in an outline format, drill yourself
on it and practice writing out the answers. Learn the material well enough to teach it to a friend. You should be able to
answer questions about the material both accurately and immediately (without hesitation).
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Conclusion
Well, that’s it! That’s really all there is to studying. The material in this program is not rocket science or biochemistry or anything
complex. It is, however, detailed and logical and requires careful studying to make the most out of it. But now that you have study hints
to help you, no doubt you’ll get more out of the program than you could have imagined!
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KNOW YOUR TERMINOLOGY
Know Your Terminology

It’s handy to know the meaning of specific terms. Throughout the program we present and define a number of these terms. Often
knowing the exact definition will provide you with the ability to think through common client questions. The best way to learn
definitions is to them write them down yourself. Use this list as a guide for writing down definitions. Then check your answers with the
glossary at the back of this workbook.
Arousal: A physiologic and psychologic state of heightened emotion, activity and reaction to stimuli. It is characterized by an increase
in heart rate, blood pressure, sensory alertness, mobility and readiness to respond.
Agonistic pucker: Body posture in which the lips are raised revealing just the incisors and the canines.
Aversive:
Back chain: To train a series of behaviors by training the last behavior first and sequentially adding on additional behaviors that
immediately precede the last one learned.
Blocking effect: Prior conditioning of one cue (or conditioned stimulus) interferes with or blocks the learning of a second cue for the
same behavior (or conditioned response) if the two cues are presented together.
Bridging stimulus:
Chaining behaviors:
Classical conditioning:
Classical counter-conditioning:
Clicker training:
Conditioned response:
Conditioned stimulus:
Continuous reinforcement:
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Counter-conditioning:
Desensitization:
Extinction:
Fixed ratio of reinforcement:
Flooding:
Habituation:
Impulse control:
Impulsivity: The tendency to act on a whim, display behavior characterized by little or no forethought, reflection or consideration of
consequences. It results in lack of self-control and an inability to delay gratification.
Intermittent reinforcement:
Luring:
Negative:
Negative punishment:
Negative reinforcement:
Neutral stimulus:
Operant conditioning:
Operant counter-conditioning:
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KNOW YOUR TERMINOLOGY
Overshadowing: This term refers to a phenomenon that occurs during the classical conditioning process. When two neutral stimuli
(i.e., potential cues) are presented at the same time and paired with an unconditioned stimulus, the presence of the more salient
stimulus (more noticeable one) may hinder the learning about the other stimulus. For instance, when teaching dogs a verbal and visual
cue for a behavior such as sitting or lying down, if you present the visual cue and the verbal word cue together, the dog is more likely to
learn the visual cue and not the verbal cue. The visual cue is more salient and overshadows the presence of the verbal cue.
Positive: In operant conditioning terminology, positive refers to adding something.
Positive punishment:
Positive reinforcement:
Punishment:
Reactive: Characterized by responding to normal stimuli with a higher-than-normal level of intensity. In dogs, this can manifest as
hypervigilance, hyperexcitability, vocalization (barking, whining, howling) lunging, mouthing, pacing, panting, difficulty responding to
well-known cues, difficulty calming down or any combination of the above.
Reinforcement:
Sensitize:
Sensitive period for socialization:
Shaping:
Successive approximations:
Unconditioned response:
Unconditioned stimulus:
Variable ratio of reinforcement:
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CHAPTER 1
Chapter 1: Recognizing Brewing Fear and Aggression

in Dogs and Cats
Lecture 1 in Creating the Pet-Friendly Hospital, Animal Shelter or Petcare Business
Summary: Dog and cat bites are the most common cause of injury in the veterinary hospital or pet care setting. Failure to
recognize the subtle indicators of fear and anxiety, paired with improper handling, can lead to animals who may leave medically better
but behaviorally worse. See how a more skilled approach to interacting with these pets will help you quickly win their trust, allowing
you to avert potentially dangerous and stressful situations.
Course Objectives:
1. Recognize the overt and subtle signs of fear and anxiety in dogs and cats.
2. Identify the common errors people make that may lead a dog or cat to be more fearful or aggressive.
3. Learn how to approach fearful and aggressive dogs and cats in a non-threatening and safe manner so that the pet feels calm
and secure.
4. Recognize how unruly behavior and overarousal can lead to aggression, and learn the general approach to addressing these issues.
INDEX
2. Sample Student Outlines for Lecture on Body Language of Fear and Aggression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
4. Gold-Level Scoring Rubrics for Handling Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
a. Approaching and Placing a Slip Lead on a Fearful Dog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
b. Getting Into a Kennel Safely . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
c. Getting Out of a Kennel Safely . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
5. Additional Required Resources for Gold-Level Certification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Related Resources
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 1: Fear. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats (book and DVD), 29-
50. Davis, CA: CattleDog Publishing.
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 9: Getting Dogs Out of Cages and Kennels. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of
Dogs & Cats (book and DVD), 159-173. Davis, CA: CattleDog Publishing.
25

in Dogs and Cats
DISCUSSION QUESTIONS
1. What is the most common cause of aggression in dogs and cats in the veterinary hospital and shelter?
2. Why is it important to avoid handling aggression with force, especially in the veterinary hospital or shelter? List 3 reasons.
3. Why is fear in dogs and cats so common?
4. What is the sensitive period for socialization? (Define what it is.) Note that this period occurs in species and individuals regardless
of whether they live with humans or in the wild, so do not define it based on how humans should raise a given animal.
5. At what approximate age range does the sensitive period for socialization occur in dogs and cats? What do you think determines
how early the sensitive period for socialization starts in dogs and cats?
6. What are some signs of fear and anxiety that were talked about in the video? Of these signs, which do you think are the easiest to miss?
7. After watching the video of Jonesy in the car for signs of fear and anxiety, how do you know Jonesy’s not reacting that way because
he’s carsick? Explain how you would distinguish between car sickness and fear in this situation.
26
CHAPTER 1 | DISCUSSION QUESTIONS
8. Before Dr. Yin adopted her Jack Russell Terrier, Jonesy, (at 7 months of age), his previous owner said, “Although Jonesy is reactive to
other dogs (i.e., barks and lunges), he walks well on leash. He never tries to pull. He naturally walks next to me or even slightly
behind.” Jonesy is an energetic dog who has a tendency to want to walk quickly. Why do you think the previous owner found that
Jonesy walked next to her and slightly behind her?
9. What are the three ways that animals can respond behaviorally when fearful?
10. Why would a dog respond aggressively when it’s fearful instead of responding in one of the other ways?
11. If a dog is acting aggressively out of fear, how do you tell that the aggressive behavior is motivated by fear?
12. A client states, “My dog’s only aggressive to people when he’s on leash or when people come into the house. I think he’s protecting
me.” What’s an alternate hypothesis for why he’s aggressive in this type of situation, and what factors would you look at to prove or
disprove this alternate hypothesis?
13. Give two reasons why some fearful dogs are more aggressive in the presence of their owners?
14. You watch a video clip where a trainer approaches a dog that’s barking and lunging at him from within a kennel. The trainer states,
“A lot of people thought this dog should be put to sleep because he’s aggressive, but he’s not aggressive; he’s just fearful. So when a
lot of other people can’t handle him, I’m not worried, because I know he’s just fearful. That’s why I can get him out of his kennel.”
What is correct or incorrect about this statement?
27
15. Your neighbor says, “My German Shepherd is aggressive because she’s mean. Once a friend tried to pet her, but she sat away from
him and leaned away from him as he repeatedly reached for her. After my friend kept trying to reach for her, my dog rubbed against
him as if she was soliciting petting. Then suddenly, out of the blue, my dog snapped at him! She had a “hard” look in her eyes when
she snapped. Now she often goes up to unfamiliar people and rubs on them and then snaps at them. I can tell she’s
not scared, because she has that “hard” look right when she snaps. She’s just mean!” Question: Is your neighbor’s assessment of
her dog correct? Provide details to support each part of your answer.
16. After watching the video of Dr. Yin counter-conditioning Jonesy to the car, many people ask how they are supposed to do
something like this in the hospital. They say, “Most dogs won’t eat treats in the hospital. We’ve tried and it rarely works.” List 3
reasons a dog who would eat at home might not eat in the hospital . For each reason, explain how you would proactively solve this.
17. Your hospital has four doctors, all of whom have excellent medical skills; however, only one is able to calmly handle dogs who tend
to be aggressive towards everyone else, including the technicians. Sometimes she uses treats, but even when meeting a fearful dog
for the first time, she can handle him better than other staff. Describe how she might be approaching and acting around these dogs
compared with her less skilled colleagues.
18. Search YouTube and find video of dogs being aggressive and people interacting with the dogs. Assess the dogs’ body language and
the behavior of the humans, so we can discuss them later.
19. Some people say that increased blinking is a sign of fear or anxiety. How would you determine whether this is true? Design an
experiment to test whether a fearful dog blinks as a sign of anxiety. Remember to have a control group/situation.
28
CHAPTER 1 | SAMPLE STUDENT OUTLINES
Sample Student Outlines for Recognizing Brewing Fear and Aggression

in Dogs and Cats
Sample Student Outline 1
I. Introduction
A. How Dr. Yin got into behavior
1. Background info on how got into behavior
2. How to make dogs better: force vs. finesse
3. Cause of aggression: fear
B. Example: Toenail trim. How to deal with aggression
1. Recognize signs of aggression – ears back, wiggling, trying to bite, barking
2. C-C steps: treats w/o handling/handle foot/tap/place/paw etc… takes 4 min. Timing important!
C. Harm in using force
1. For the human and the animal
a. Workers comp. claim
b. Get bitten
c. Lost work days
d. Animal worse
2. Case 1: Sierra
a. Holding still → Aggression after bad experience one too many.
3. Case 2: Gracie (Rottweiler)
a. Arthritis (can’t get up or down); had a radiograph taken at the vet. Problem walking after got out of hospital
b. Aggressive at hospital next time she went. Associated it with pain → fear
4. Case 3: Rina (cat)
a. Nervous around people & at the hospital. Old couple decided to have someone come in to cut toenails. Cat had very bad
experience => bled
b. Became aggressive to people in the house. It would attack them and send them to hospital (secretary + housekeeper)
D. Conclusion to Intro
1. Dangerous for handler and the animal to let aggression persist. Job is to never send an animal back worse than you got it.
II. Learn to recognize fear and aggression in dogs and cats
A. Why are pets fearful?
1. Who is at risk?
a. All breeds/all ages at risk
b. Owners don’t recognize until it’s too late (bite stage). When do recognize it, think it’s a fluke.
c. Aggression isn’t abnormal. Natural to protect resources/territory. People think it is, don’t want to be labeled as having a
bad dog. Aggression is natural just not ok when animal is a pet.
2. Why is fear so common?
a. It is part of the normal process of development
- Neonatal period → eyes/ears closed, trust everything
- Socialization period → bond to things around them, curious, startle easily but recover quickly
- Later development period → lasts rest of an animal’s lifetime. Fear of novel objects/environment
b. Train b/w 3 weeks and 3 months, best period to socialize, usually sequestered because no vaccines
3. What can we do?
a. Subject animal to different types of socialization at young age. Different people/different animals/different sights and
sounds.
4. Why is it so bad? 29
a. Case 1: Dog runs away from plastic sheet

- Dog was undersocialized, not used to weird sounds
- Runs and hides under a bush when Dr. Yin makes sound with the plastic sheet
- Has to desensitize to everyday noise.
b. Case 2: Jonesy is afraid in the car
- Background info: Jonesy aggressive at 8 weeks of age, got him at 7 months. Afraid of a lot of things
- Ironing board: desensitize. Have to socialize to things need to consider safe.
5. Puppy preschool
a. 8-16 weeks, 1 vaccine, clean & sanitized area, no sick pets, owners practice at home, hand around well-behaved pets +
experiences.
B. How to recognize fear and aggression
1. General cues
a. Muscle tension, weight distribution low and away, head low/level, eyes away, whale eyes, ears back, tail low/still
b. Other signs: run away/hide, look away/avert gaze/brow furrowed, face tense/pant/lick lips when not thirsty,
hypervigilant/yawn/tired when not, slow motion (top thing that people miss)/not eating but hungry/SLUD
2. Examples
a. Case video of Jonesy in the car
- signs of fear: ears out side, back away, hypervigilant, yawn, pant, stop eating, lick lips, slow
- perform other behaviors, change underlying emotional state → change in behavior
b. Cat photos at hospital
- signs: Arched back, tail up, hair up, hiss
- P1: uncomfortable in new environment, feet & tail tucked/no exploring
- P2: Ears out, leaning away and into the wall
- P3: Mouth open, leaning away, hissing
c. Dog “protective” of owner (Pascua)
- Owner not present, dog backs away
- Owner present, dog barks behind owner: social support
C. How/why fear turns into aggression
1. 3 ways to cope with fear
a. Fight – Flight – Freeze → same physiological response. Bark → bark/lunge. Offense is best defense
b. Dog used to show signs of fear in the same or similar context. Looks aggressive, tail high, leaning forward, high head,
direct stare. Can’t really tell.
2. How can you tell it’s fear?
a. Case 1: fear/aggression
- Dog averts eyes/lick lips when not thirsty (little dog)
b. Case 2: Sierra
- Bark/stand on owner’s feet, high arousal. Difference between protective and scared dog. Protective = confident. Scared
= avert gaze/stand on owner for social support
c. Case 3: Clyde (goofy)
- Clyde was nervous around people. Squealing bark when go up to the cage. He became good around foster mom
Melissa but nobody else. Shows displacement behavior. Rolling around, pacing, goofy. When Dr.Yin tried to pet him,
went to bite her.
2. Why dogs tend to attack more than cats?
a. Dogs bark. Barking is a reward in itself for the dog and is contributing to overarousal, which is on a continuum to
aggression. Dogs also generally on leash with reduced flight distance whereas cats no.
D. What we unintentionally do to make it worse
1. We do not read the signs (see animation)
2. We make movements that make the dog scared
a. Sniff hand = scary claw holding a knife
30
b. Get down from high level = closer to scary face (while it is better to be smaller, you might want to turn away as well)
c. Jerky movements = is planning something bad
E. What we can do to make it better
1. Greetings
a. Body position away, enough so not scared. Let dog make 1st contact. Move smoothly, slowly. Relax. Watch dog and
adapt to response (look at dog body language to see if improving). Don’t talk to dog (only if responds to happy voice)
b. Example 1: Fearful at vet. Put your back to the dog and give treats continuously.
c. Example 2: Fearful at vet (other). Sit next to dog, give treats, stand up slowly but non-hesitantly
d. Example 3: Greeting with small fearful dog in house (right vs. wrong). Wrong: Lean over, put hand out too soon. +
happy voice responsive. Right: Food thrown to side, eating, then pet.
e. Denver dog bite case & David Letterman. Woman anchor bitten by fearful licking lips dog when went for a kiss. David
Letterman lunged at by dog when went for a kiss.
2. Know the limits
a. Are you comfortable when the spider jumps on you/moves fast/buzzes/appear in an unexpected place/on day 2. Stay out
of personal space, face sideways, move smoothly, give time.
b. Dog at shelter under quarantine: Cower, looks away. Wait til relax to let him off
c. Small dog passing person to person. Correct vs. incorrect handling. Go from behind and make sure dog is secure, least
wiggle room possible.
F. How unruly behavior can lead to aggression
1. Cause 1: fear, cause 2: overarousal
2. Puppy lab example
a. Can be mouthy at a young age. It is more of a play behavior. The dog has no impulse control. It doesn’t stop when Dr.Yin
says Owww. Can degenerate when dog gets older and starts chasing something/someone, might not know when to stop.
3. Precious, 10 months old (at house/vet handling)
a. Mouthy/dangerous, can knock someone over, maul them if she wants to. She struggles at the vet and could hurt
someone.
4. Arousal & aggression on a continuum
a. Flashlight dog, jumps for the light, could really hurt someone if they had something the dog really wanted. Dangerous
for little kid/old people/disabled ppl
III. Examples: Video
A. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArxjqR-Vs3M Bella dog scared of a lot of things. Trainer trying to make her more
comfortable around kitchen.
B. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVMi1kpqZoU Guy supposedly training a fearful dog. What’s wrong with his posture? The
way he set up the situation? Is the technique working? Is the dog eating the food? Is the guy really a neutral stimulus?
31
Sample Student Outline 2
I. Introduction
A. Why is low stress handling important?
1. Fear is the most common cause of aggression
a. CC to TNT video
B. Force-based methods are harmful
1. You or others could be injured
a. Lose money, work days
b. Can make animal worse
c. Endanger animal (euthanasia risk)
d. Pet should be sent home from hospital better, not worse
e. Non-force methods work better, last longer
C. Case studies
1. Sierra the American Bulldog: Dog fearful at vet, nervous around strangers. Got into fight with other dog, had to go
to vet. She was already fearful at the hospital, but also went in a highly aroused state, so she became aggressive. Then
aggressive to people coming to house.
2. Gracie the Rottweiler: Fearful at hospital, nervous around strangers. Took to vet for arthritis, procedures were painful
afterward. Next time, had had a painful event in a place where she was fearful - became aggressive.
3. Rina the cat: Fearful at vet, nervous in house. Had someone come to house to trim toenails, traumatized cat. Cat
became aggressive to other people in house, attacked them.
II. Learn to recognize fear and aggression in dogs and cats
A. Why are so many pets fearful?
1. Who is at risk?
a. Any breed, any age of animal
b. Owners often don’t notice fear until it becomes aggression
c. Owners don’t act because think behavior is a fluke
d. Aggression is often normal
2. Why are fear and aggression so common?
a. Fear is part of the normal developmental process
i. Neonatal period: no fear → Eyes, ears open, recognize surroundings
ii. Socialization period (sensitive period for socialization)→Default setting = be curious and bond with those around
them, startle easily, recover quickly.
b. 3 weeks – 3 months old
i. Takes more work afterward
ii. Before vaccines complete, people isolate pets — leads to fearful pets
c. Kittens tend to be more fearful than puppies because people don’t socialize them as much as they do puppies.
d. Later developmental period
i. Older, more ambulatory: default setting = fear of novel objects
ii. Evolutionary benefit
iii. Lasts for rest of life
B. What do we need to socialize pets to?
1. They need positive experiences with everything they will need to be
around/recognize as safe during their life
2. Types of people, animals, sights, sounds, environments
a. It is important to address fear of 1 thing
b. Anything associated with scary object can become scary
c. Fear of one thing can exacerbate fear of another
32
3. Owners should do puppy classes and practice at home

a. Play dates with well-behaved pets
b. Make sure experience is positive
c. Kitten gets scared, but waving a toy in front of its face distracts it and
makes it happy again
d. This would not work with an adult cat
C. How to recognize fear/anxiety in dogs & cats
1. Fearful body language
a. Tense muscles, Weight distribution = low, away (cowering), Head low, level, Eyes/gaze averted, Head turned away, still
looking in opposite direction = whale eye, Tense face, furrowed brow, Ears back, Tail low/tucked, still
b. Other Signs: Run away, hide, Move away, Panting when not hot, Licking lips when food not present, Salivate, urinate,
defecate, Hypervigilant: glancing quickly in different directions, Yawn, look tired, Move in slow motion, Won’t eat
2. Some dogs have goofy behaviors before they bite
a. Displacement behaviors like rolling on ground
b. Some dogs get overaroused when nervous
3. You need to be aware of what is a normal activity level for that dog
a. Jonesy example in car: he got excited and moved faster when the car turned off. He showed signs of fear when the car
was on and moving.
4. Fear/anxiety in cats
a. Arched back, Ears back, Hissing,Tail vertical, Hair standing on end (piloerection), Freeze/decreased movement, Averts
gaze, Decreased exploratory behavior.
D. Goal when changing emotional state: want animal to have fun the whole time, and keep below threshold
1. If miss early stages, can’t change situation before animal becomes aggressive
2. Behavior can change in different situations
a. OK when tarantula is still, not OK when tarantula moves
E. How/why fear can turn into aggression
1. Case study
a. Pascua the dog: Dog shows fearful behavior (backing up, averting gaze, panting) without owner. Dog barks and stays
behind owner when owner present. Dog sits when she tells it to, but dog doesn’t care - he’s paying attention to Dr. Yin.
b. Anything we do that doesn’t get dog to focus on us and calm down probably increases overarousal (like shouting no, no)
2. 3 ways animals cope with fear
a. Freeze, flee, fight
i. All 3 are part of same physiologic response
ii. Usually freeze for an instant, then fight or flee
b. Dogs can easily learn to fight
i. Bark when scared = increased arousal = on continuum with aggression
ii. Dogs are more likely to be aggressive when scared than cats are because dogs bark
c. Also, cats are more prey-like, and thus less likely to resort to aggression
i. Learn that offense is best defense.
ii. High-arousal posture: direct stare, head high, ears forward, leaning forward, tail high, tense muscles
i. Dog can have hard eyes when about to bite
ii. It is possible that you will see no signs or only fleeting signs of fear
d. Dogs can be more aggressive on leash
i. Social support = power in #s
ii. Dog is unable to flee from scary stimulus, so it fights
F. How do you know aggression is fear?
1. Dog used to show signs of fear in this context
a. History of fear in past in context, or similar context
G. Example: dog attacks vet after being nervous in waiting room 33
1. Dog shows fleeting signs of fear in this or similar contexts

2. Pekinese barking is showing signs of fear: averting gaze, licking lips
3. Sierra: Barks in living room. In new location, clearly fearful.
4. Clyde the spaniel: acts goofy. Squeals and barks when approach
cage. Displacement behavior: rolling around, rubbing his face.
H. Summary
1. Cowering is an obvious sign of fear
a. Important to pay attention to more subtle signs
b. Animals can learn offense = best defense
c. Signs of fear might be fleeting/only occur in some contexts
d. Dogs can act more energetic or goofy when nervous
III. How people interact with dogs to make it worse and what they should do instead
A. How people make aggression worse
1. Approach animal inappropriately, look scary
a. Don’t loom over dog
b. Don’t stick hands in dog’s face
B. How can we avoid making fear and aggression worse?
1. Stay out of animal’s personal space
a. Avoid direct stare
b. Let animal approach on its own, make first contact
c. Move slowly, smoothly
d. Be relaxed
2. Watch dog’s body language and responses to our actions
a. Alter our actions accordingly
b. Not just about knowing techniques and applying the appropriate techniques to that situation
3. Use happy voice if dog responds positively to it
a. Don’t use nervous chatter, angry/forceful voice, overly calm voice
b. Want to change way dog feels
c. Anything that doesn’t get the dog to focus on you can just increase overarousal
4. Approach facing backwards or sideways, not head-on
a. But don’t turn your back on fearful dog when you leave
b. Less scary when sitting
c. Don’t lean over dog
d. Bend knees to reach down
C. Examples
1. Denver dog bite: Dog nervous, licking lips, ears back. Woman puts face over dog, he bites her.
2. David Letterman: bent over dog, tried to kiss it, it leapt at him
3. How to greet recap
a. Stay out of personal space: let dog make first contact
b. Face sideways, avoid direct gaze
c. Move slowly, smoothly, no sudden movements
d. Give animal time to get used to your presence
e. Know where dog’s threshold is
f. Don’t assume dog will be comfortable with you today if it was okay with you yesterday
D. Same principles for getting fearful dog out of cage/picking up little dogs
1. Transfer dog by picking it up from behind
a. Don’t give escape route
2. Another cause of aggression is unruly, overarousal behavior (#2 cause)
a. Arousal and aggression are on a continuum
34
3. To change overarousal behavior

a. Train different behavior that will work to get rewards
b. Teach calm behavior to get what they want
i. Give treats while petting if petting too exciting
ii. Remove rewards for overarousal behavior
iii. Puppy gets excited and bitey while playing
c. Big dog has same behavior - less safe
i. Becomes aggressive when handled (practice being overaroused)
d. Older dog - overaroused when sounds go off
IV. Overall summary
A. Most common cause of aggression is fear
1. Important to recognize signs
a. Avoid making it worse
b. Greet, approach better
2. Pets can be unruly/have practice responding in overaroused manner
a. Overarousal can lead to aggression (continuum)
B. Quiz:
1. Dog has history of lunging/snapping at people who enter house - has forward body position
a. Dog is fearful: leaning away, ears back, tail low
b. 3rd consult: dog can focus on her
c. Just because seemed so aggressive doesn’t mean it will be hard to reverse it
2. Second dog: person leaning over, facing dog, moving weirdly - tentatively, uncertainly = dog is fearful
a. Just throwing food isn’t enough - have to have correct body position
b. Standing up straight - dog moving normally
35

in Dogs and Cats
PRACTICE EXE RCISES

These activities will give you practice recognizing the body language of fear and anxiety in dogs and cats and approaching and
interacting with them in a non-threatening manner.
Exercise 1: Observe 3 fearful dogs and 3 fearful cats. Describe the specific signs you saw that indicated they were fearful. Especially
note the signs that people commonly miss such as low activity. Be sure to point out behavior(s), postures and physiologic parameters
that indicate fear/anxiety. (You must note measurable parameters when looking for anxiety.)
DOGS
1.
2.
3.
CATS
1.
2.
3.
36
CHAPTER 1 | PRACTICE EXERCISES
Exercise 2: Greet 3 dogs with the correct posture and positioning, and describe how this helped each dog feel safe and comfortable.
DOGS
1.
2.
3.
Exercise 3: Now that you have a basis for recognizing fearful and aggressive behaviors and how specific types of interactions can make
them worse, think of an experience in the past with a fearful or aggressive animal that didn’t go well. What specific signs of anxiety
might you have missed? What behaviors that you engaged in could have exacerbated the situation? How might your body language
have unintentionally appeared threatening?
37

in Dogs and Cats
GOLD CERTIFICATION RUBRIC
Approaching and Placing a Slip Lead on a Fearful Dog: Handler’s Technique

SCORE
1. Approach 1: Handler faces backwards or sideways to the dog.
direction 0: Handler approaches head-on.
2. Approach speed 1: Handler approaches such that the dog remains stationary or moves at a
speed slower than a trot.
0: Handler moves too fast or moves leash hand too fast so that the dog moves
away at a speed faster than a walk.
3. Hold leash 1: Handler holds leash in one hand with loop open ready to slip over the
correctly dog’s head.
0: Handler uses two hands on the leash or does not have leash positioned
correctly to get it over the dog’s head.
4. Slip lead on 1: If dog tries to jump up and paw the leash, handler pulls the leash out of
pawing distance within 0.5 seconds.
0: If dog tries to jump up and paw the leash, handler allows the dog to get feet
caught in the leash.
5. Slip lead on 1: Handler is able to slip the leash over the dog’s head.
0: Handler is unable to slip the leash over the dog’s head.
Passing Score:
4/4 or 5/5
38
CHAPTER 1 | GOLD CERTIFICATION RUBRIC
Getting Into a Kennel Safely: Handler’s Technique

See reader resources for Low Stress Handling, Restraint, and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats to see the video and read the protocol
on how to perform this technique.
SCORE
1. Facing the dog 1: Handler keeps eyes on the dog at all times (when opening the kennel door,
walking in, walking out and closing the door) and only looks away for an
instant when unlatching the kennel door.
0: Handler turns away from the dog at any point when getting into or out of
the kennel.
2. Entering the 1: Handler is able to slip into the kennel in 2 steps and pulls kennel door shut
kennel smoothly while entering such that there is never a gap in kennel doorway (legs
should be completely blocking the door gap).
0: Handler opens the kennel door more than necessary or only pulls the door
shut after completely entering such that there is an instant where the
kennel door is freely open.
3. Rewarding calm 1: For treat-motivated dogs: If the dog rushes up, handler shows the dog a
behavior inside treat and rewards sitting (one treat for sitting, additional treats for
the kennel remaining seated) as soon as handler enters the kennel, before the dog has
a chance to jump.
0: Handler allows dog to jump up or fails to reward at a rapid enough rate or
use a fast enough treat delivery speed to keep the dog seated and focused.
Passing Score:
(100%) 2/2 or 3/3
39
Getting Out of a Kennel Safely: Handler’s Technique

See reader resources for Low Stress Handling, Restraint, and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats to see the video and read the protocol
on how to perform this technique. Handler must be able to perform this technique with a dog who wants to rush out of a kennel.
SCORE
1. Rewarding calm 1: For treat-motivated dogs: Show the dog a treat and reward sitting (one treat
behavior inside for sitting, additional treats for remaining seated). Dog remains seated for
the kennel at least 5 seconds.
0: Handler is unable to reward with the right timing or at a fast enough rate to
keep the dog sitting for 5 seconds.
2. Blocking the dog 1: If the dog is interested in rushing out the door, handler uses body to block
when exiting the dog. Handler moves to block the dog within 0.5 seconds every time the
dog starts to run around him/her.
0: Handler moves too slowly (> 0.5 sec) to block the dog when the dog
starts to make a move to run by. As a result, the dog is able to run by or
continues to attempt to run by for a prolonged period.
3. Blocking the dog 1: Handler blocks dog in a manner such that the dog stands or sits stationary
so he stands away greater than 1 large handler stride from the door and then is able to back
from the door up so there’s a gap of 1 or more feet between the handler and the dog.
0: Handler blocks the dog but dog is too close to the door and/or the handler
cannot create a gap > 1 foot between her and the door. (The result is that
if the handler starts to back out, the dog could get up quickly and push
against the handler to try to get out.
4. Exiting the kennel 1: Handler is able to get out of the kennel in 2 steps with body facing the dog
smoothly and pulls kennel door shut as handler exits such that there is never an
empty gap in kennel door and the dog is unable to push his head through
the gap.
0: Handler opens the kennel door more than necessary, turns away from
the dog to exit, takes more than 2 steps, or only pulls the door shut after
completely exiting such that there is an instant where the kennel door is
freely open.
Passing Score:
(100%) 3/3 or 4/4
40
Additional Required Resources for Gold-Level Certification

Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 1: The Body Language of Fear and Aggression. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification
of Dogs & Cats (book and DVD), 1-17. Davis, CA: CattleDog Publishing.
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 9: Getting Dogs Out of Cages and Kennels. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of
Yin, Sophia. Protocol for Getting Out of and Into Kennels Safely.
http://drsophiayin.com/lowstress/resources. (Low Stress Handling Reader Resources page accessible to those who have purchased
Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats (book and DVD).
Yin, Sophia. Using Blocking to Train a Dog to Wait as You Get Out of a Kennel (video).
http://drsophiayin.com/lowstress/resources. (Low Stress Handling Reader Resources page accessible to those who have purchased
Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats (book and DVD).
41
42
CHAPTER 2
Chapter 2: Rapid Reversal of Fear and Aggression

in Dogs and Cats
Summary: Flooding, desensitization, classical counter-conditioning and operant counter-conditioning are the 4 methods of
behavior modification; but which one should you use? Many people are familiar with the terms and techniques but may lack the full
knowledge needed to apply them appropriately. Improper or unskilled application can cause animals’ behavior to worsen. Discover how
understanding the underlying principles and observing the animal’s response can increase your level and speed of success.
Course Objectives:
1. Learn the 4 methods of behavior modification: flooding, desensitization, classical counterconditioning and
operant counterconditioning.
2. Understand why desensitization and counterconditioning are generally safer, faster and more effective than flooding, which can
be associated with adverse effects.
3. See the common mistakes that people make when trying to desensitize and countercondition. Discover the factors that are
essential for performing the techniques safely and efficiently.
INDEX
Related Resources
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 5: Methods of Behavior Modification. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs
& Cats (book and DVD), 109-118. Davis, CA: CattleDog Publishing.
43

in Dogs and Cats
1. What are the 4 methods of behavior modification? Provide definitions.
2. You saw a video of an Australian Cattle Dog who is fearful of visitors (also available as Video 6 in Chapter 1 of Low Stress Handling,
Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats). The owner says, “When people visit, Nellie greets them ok and seems ok
with them. But after they sit around for a little while and then get up, she sometimes rushes and barks at them.” The owner doesn’t
understand why Nellie is so aggressive. Answer the following questions regarding this video.
a. Evaluate Nellie’s greetings. Does her greeting indicate that she’s ok with the people? (Use appropriate scientific terminology
where indicated.)
b. What type of behavior modification is occurring?
c. Why would the dog seem ok, but then act aggressive?
3. What is a potential side effect of flooding, and how could you prevent it from happening?
4. What combination of behavior modification techniques do we most frequently use, and what category do we tend to avoid?
5. A friend says that he is desensitizing his dog to skateboards and wants to show you how he’s doing it. He takes out a big skateboard
and your other friend says, “You’re not desensitizing, you’re flooding.” Who is correct, and how would you decide, e.g., what
determines whether the process is desensitization?
44
6. Your brother’s dog is afraid of your vacuum cleaner, and he desensitizes the dog to it over a period of 2 months. Then when he’s at
your house, the dog barks and backs away at the sight of your vacuum cleaner. “What a dumb dog!” says your brother. “I just spent
2 months desensitizing him to vacuum cleaners, and he’s afraid of your vacuum cleaner.” Is his dog dumb? Can you explain why
his dog reacts this way?
7. You are getting ready teach a client how to DS/CC a cat to receiving injections. You’ll use canned food and a syringe. What points
do you need to explain to the client regarding timing and positioning of the treats/food?
8. My dog is not motivated for food when we are at the veterinary hospital, so I can’t desensitize and countercondition (DS/CC) him.
Is that correct?
9. A trainer emails you, “I’ve trained for 100 million years and know animal behavior like I know the back of my hand. So I know that
the original studies on classical conditioning show that you must present the neutral stimulus (such as the bell) before you present
the stimulus the animal already knows (such as food) for the two to become associated. Without that order of pairing the animal
won’t learn. So when I see you presenting the nail trimmers after you present food to the dog, I know it won’t work. The dog won’t
notice the stimulus (the nail trimmer). I don’t understand why you teach this if it won’t work.” How would you reply to this
response in a way that addresses her underlying beliefs?
10. You send a client home with a DS/CC program for training her dog to enjoy being groomed. She states, “How do I keep my dog
from learning to be afraid of the treats I’m using? Now when I approach with treats for the training, she runs away.”
45
11. “In some of the videos where you are DS/CC’ing an aggressive dog to being petted or touched , you reach out with your hand above
the head. Isn’t this wrong? Dogs don’t like being petted on the head. And you should never reach out to pet an aggressive dog on the
head. Why don’t you pet him on the chest or under the chin instead?” How would you answer this person’s questions in a scientific
and convincing way that addresses her concerns…
a) about petting the dog on the head when using DS/CC?
b) about dogs disliking being touched on the head?
c) about it being better to pet the dog on the chest or chin?
12. “My dog barks at the mailman and other people who come to the door. She rushes and barks at them, but she’s a friendly dog, so I
know she would never bite anyone. Plus her tail is wagging.” Is this person’s evaluation correct?
13. At the vet hospital a dog was barking at me, and I wondered if I should have tossed treats because I didn’t want to reward the
barking. Should I have used treats or not?
14. A dog hates having her toenails trimmed. Describe how you would change the behavior using desensitization paired with operant
counterconditioning vs. paired with classical counterconditioning.
15. What is the different between classical counterconditioning and operant counterconditioning?
16. If you are using classical counterconditioning to train a cat to enjoy a procedure such as being restrained on her side, do you
need to present food prior to adding the aversive stimulus (the restraint) in order for the procedure to be considered classical
counterconditioning? Please explain why or why not.
46
Advanced Questions
16. A horse is fearful of the big red garbage can in front of the barn. For each category of behavior modification, come up with one
technique you might use to address the problem. Use appropriate verbiage that makes it clear that you know how to execute the
techniques appropriately (even if you would not use the technique).
17. A dog likes to chase cats. For each category of behavior modification, come up with one technique you might use to address the
problem. Use appropriate verbiage that makes it clear that you know how to execute the techniques appropriately (even if you would
not use the technique).
18. You’ve owned two cats for many years who have always gotten along well. Last week you took one to the vet hospital and when you
brought her home, the other cat attacked her. Why might this have occurred? For each category of behavior modification, come up with
one technique that might be used to address the problem. Use appropriate verbiage that makes it clear that you know how to execute
the techniques appropriately (even if you would not use the technique).
47

in Dogs and Cats
PRACTICE EXERCISES
These activities will give you practice using behavior modification techniques to rapidly reverse fear and aggression.
Exercise 1: Taste Test. Bring a variety of food types into an exam room for the day, and test which ones your feline and canine patients
will eat. Cats may like canned food, crunchy treats, Greenies®, semi-moist treats, tuna or meat-flavored baby food. Dogs may like semi-
moist treats, cheese (e.g., spreadable or squeeze cheese), peanut butter, baby food, canned food or dry treats. Which of these do they
eat immediately? Which can be measured out easily (e.g., in small bite-sized pieces or just 3-5 licks as a reward)? Which one(s) did you
find most desired by cats and dogs? Based on this exercise, describe the benefits of having a variety of treats available in the hospital.
Doggie Taste Test

TYPE OF TREAT EATEN IMMEDIATELY (Y/N FOR EACH DOG) MEASURED OUT EASILY
Kitty Taste Test

TYPE OF TREAT EATEN IMMEDIATELY (Y/N FOR EACH CAT) MEASURED OUT EASILY
48
Exercise 2: Use counterconditioning and desensitization to train a dog or cat who doesn’t like a certain procedure to enjoy it instead.
Choose one of the following procedures: nail trims, grooming or receiving injections. Describe your steps in the following table.
STEPS DESCRIBE
Describe your timing of the treat in relation to the handling.
Describe your placement of the treat needed to keep the pet

stationary.
What body language do you see that tells you that you’re
staying under threshold?
What body language or behavior might you see that would

indicate that you’re approaching or going over threshold?
How would you rate the animal’s motivation for the food?
How did you decide when to go to the next step?
Did you go over threshold at any point?
How did you know when to end the session?
How long did the entire process take?
Discuss how this technique can help you in practice, as well as how it can help the animal feel safe and comfortable in the future.
49
50
CHAPTER 3
Chapter 3: Low Stress Handling and Restraint of Difficult

Dogs and Cats
Summary: Are you routinely scruffing, stretching or struggling with cats, or do you find that you have difficulty with hyperactive,
fearful or aggressive dogs? Learn Low Stress Handling techniques that apply to even the most difficult patients. From creating a calm,
inviting environment, to using towel wrap techniques, to multiple methods for handling pets of different sizes and temperaments, you’ll
learn principles and techniques that allow you to adjust to the patient’s needs. Put it all together and you’ll create a more Pet-Friendly
hospital.
Course Objectives:
1. Learn how the sights, sounds, smells and surfaces in your practice may be increasing stress in your patients. Find ways to create
a calm, safe and secure environment.
2. Understand how every interaction—how you approach animals, pick them up, move them from place to place or restrain
them—affects the animal’s perception of you and his willingness to cooperate.
3. Realize that animals don’t understand human language, and how miscommunication can cause them to become frustrated
and confused. Learn the principles of how to position your body, place your hands and adjust your movement to provide the
direction and guidance the animal needs.
INDEX
Related Resources:
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 7: Preparing the Environment for the Pet’s Visit. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior
Modification of Dogs & Cats (book and DVD), 141-147. Davis, CA: CattleDog Publishing.
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 8: Exam Room Tips. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats (book
and DVD), 149-156. Davis, CA: CattleDog Publishing.
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 14: Dealing with Difficult Dogs. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs &
Cats (book and DVD), 301-338. Davis, CA: CattleDog Publishing.
51

Dogs and Cats
1. List 4 reasons why it’s best to avoid using force when handling animals in the veterinary hospital.
2. What is the number 1 reason why pets are difficult/fractious in the veterinary hospital setting?
3. Give 4 examples of how you can set up the hospital or shelter to help the animal feel comfortable and safe.
4. In the video of the fear-aggressive cocker spaniel at the shelter, the dog was fearful and unsafe to pet at first. What did Dr. Yin do
that allowed her to handle and pet the dog?
5. When leading a dog from one place to another, why is it important to pay attention to how you are moving?
6. Describe 3 factors that are important when leading a dog from one location to another.
7. Regarding the video with Clyde, explain the process by which Clyde goes from being anxious (pacing) to heeling nicely with
Dr. Yin and the intern.
52
8. When supporting or restraining an animal, what sides do you need to support?
9. Describe 3 ways for preventing a small or medium dog from moving forward.
10. Describe 3 ways/holds to prevent a small or medium dog from jumping up.
11. Describe 3 ways to restrain a big dog’s head. Which methods provide more control and why?
12. When guiding a dog from a stand to a sit, how do you adjust the dog’s weight? What must you do to get the dog to sit without
scaring or confusing him?
13. If you try a particular restraint method and the animal struggles, what should you do?
14. If you just restrain the dog until he’s tired, is that ok? Could there be some adverse effect? If so, what?
15. Your friend works in an emergency hospital, and you tell her about low stress handling. She says, “Oh, we can’t do that because
we’re an emergency hospital, and our patients can’t eat.” Is she correct about low stress handling and about the patients’ inability
to eat? Explain.
53

Dogs and Cats
PRACTICE EXERCISES
These activities will give you practice using Low Stress Handling and restraint techniques for difficult dogs and cats.
Exercise 1: Use Low Stress Handling techniques from this course to remove a fearful/aggressive cat from a carrier in a situation where
the cat doesn’t want to come out. Discuss what you did and how this was different from what you’ve done in the past. How did this help
you and/or the cat feel safe and comfortable? Do you think this cat will be better next time? Why or why not?
Exercise 2: In a situation where a dog is jumping and/or acting excited, use treats to reward the dog for sitting calmly. Start by showing
him a treat and waiting for him to sit before you deliver the treat, then give additional treats for remaining seated. Discuss how this is
different from your past experiences and how it helped you control the dog.
Exercise 3: Often dogs that come into the hospital are not hungry or are too anxious to take treats. In those cases, we focus on
controlling their movement. Find a dog who is wiggly or pacing but currently unmotivated for food (hence you can’t use treats to
reward sitting). To help the dog understand that you want him to hold still or move less, shorten the leash and hold it stationary at that
one length, or hold his collar. Fill in the table by answering the following questions.
QUESTION ANSWER
How long does it take for the dog to become stationary?
Once stationary, does he sit without prompting?
54
If he does not automatically sit once he’s stationary, does he

sit when you ask him to? (Note: Ask him once in a friendly
manner, loudly enough but not in a commanding tone of
voice.)
Were you able to say “sit” just once as described above?
If dog remains standing, are you able to keep him stationary

more easily than in the past?
Exercise 4: Using a specific hospital, kennel or other petcare business as an example, suggest potential improvements that would
decrease stress for the pet. Be sure to address sights, sounds, surfaces and scents for each aspect of the pet’s visit.
Aspect of the pet’s visit Improvements

Client at-home preparations
Waiting room setup
Exam room setup
Treatment room setup
Cage or kennel setup
Hospital patient flow

(patient and procedure
scheduling)
Discharge process (getting

patient out of hospital
safely with proper owner
instructions)
Instructions once pet

arrives home
55
56
CHAPTER 4
Chapter 4: What Giraffes, Dogs, and Chickens Have in

Common—Training Techniques that Work for All Creatures
Lecture 1 in Pet Dogs, Problem Dogs, High Performance Dogs: How Science Can Take
Your Training to a New Level
Summary: Ninety percent of all animal training, regardless of the species or complexity of the task, relies on a strong
understanding of the science of learning. Learn what these foundation principles are and how to apply them to everyday training. By
the end of this lecture, you’ll have the information you need to modify behavior in your dog or cat, as well as your horse, housemates or
even hippos!
Course Objectives:
1. Understand the principles that guide learning in all animals so that you can apply techniques across species and situations.
2. Learn the categories of operant conditioning and the foolproof way to categorize techniques correctly so that you can recognize
when terminology is being used inappropriately.
3. Discover how the approach of rewarding the behaviors you want (positive reinforcement) and removing rewards for unwanted
behaviors (negative punishment) can be used to solve most non-medical behavior problems.
4. Understand that training is a technical skill. See how subtle differences in timing, rate of reinforcement, choice of motivator and
the ability to define appropriate criteria can make vast differences in your training efficiency.
INDEX
3. Gold Certification Rubrics for Handling Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
a Delivering Treats to a Sitting Dog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
4. Additional Required Resources for Gold-Level Certification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Related Resources:
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 3: Classical Conditioning (Associate Learning). In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 4: Operant Conditioning Basics (Learning by Trial and Error). In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and
Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats (book and DVD), 87-104. Davis, CA: CattleDog Publishing.
57

1. In Pavlov’s experiment, what did he find?
2. What is the definition of classical conditioning? (Check your answer with the glossary to ensure that you answer correctly).
3. What is the definition of classical counterconditioning? ? (Check your answer with the glossary to ensure that you answer correctly).
4. Give an example of classical conditioning that you have encountered. Why is it important to know about classical conditioning
when training or interacting with your dog or other dogs/pets/animals?
5. Dr. Yin used to train dogs in obedience competition over 20 years ago. When she was training with top-level trainers, she used
mostly positive reinforcement (and shaping) but some choke chain and pinch collar corrections too. She found that her dog would
sometimes look tired and lag behind in the obedience ring or when they were practicing long heeling patterns, but as soon as
the exercise was over he bounced around and was very energetic. She saw this occurring in other dogs too. The dog
would lag, the handler would give a correction when he lagged, and the dog would then catch up and move into heel position. But
then he’d lag again after 20-60 seconds. Why would a dog lag behind even though he consistently got corrections for doing so?
6. What is operant conditioning?
7. Define reinforcement.
8. Define punishment.
9. Does punishment mean the technique is mean or aversive?
58
10. Define positive reinforcement.
11. Define negative reinforcement.
12. Describe how negative reinforcement is used to train horses to be led with a lead rope. With negative reinforcement, what is the key
factor that allows the horse to understand what the correct behavior is?
13. Define positive punishment.
14. Define negative punishment.
15. For each category of operant conditioning, give an example that could be used to modify behavior in people.
16. What is the general approach to solving behavior problems in animals?
17. In the example with Dante where we are training him to be quiet, how does Dr. Yin ensure that he learns to be quiet rather than
accidentally teaching him to meow and then be quiet only for an instant (e.g., a chained behavior of meow-quiet, meow-quiet).
18. Training is a sport. List and explain the 3 most important factors of training.
19. What is shaping?
59
20. Give an example of a behavior you might shape in a dog, cat, horse or person.
21. If you create a shaping plan and you’re getting stuck, what are the 3 errors you could be making? For instance, you’re training a dog
to lie down on a rug for 1 minute, but the dog keeps getting up before 1 minute. What could be going wrong? (Explain in detail
what you may have been doing and how you would change it).
22. Your friend says, “Dogs shouldn’t be trained with food. They should work for praise and petting.” Do you agree or disagree and why?
23. Besides food, what else is motivating to a dog? Explain how you would know whether a dog is motivated by something.
24. What is motivating to a horse that may be different than for a dog? How does this influence the effectiveness of natural
horsemanship techniques?
25. When training dogs—to greet politely, for instance—should you ignore bad behavior?
26. What is the difference between extinction and negative punishment? (Refer to the glossary as needed).
27. What is the difference between reinforcing for behavior and bribing? (Refer to the glossary as needed).
28. What is the difference between a variable ratio of reinforcement and a random ratio of reinforcement?
29. What is the difference between a lure and a bribe? (Refer to the glossary as needed).
60
Advanced Questions
The 2-step Approach to Solving Behavior Problems
For the following questions, explain how you’d fix the problem using the 2–step approach of reinforcing a replacement behavior and
removing the reinforcer for the unwanted behavior (or removing the chance to perform the unwanted behavior and get rewarded for
it). We’ll begin with an example.
Example: When Fufu goes to the beach-front dog park, she sometimes rolls in stinky seaweed that has washed up on the
beach. It makes her reek, and then you always have to bathe her (which both you and she hate)! You wish she wouldn’t roll
in seaweed, but you don’t know how to get her to stop. Yelling at her or chasing her don’t work, especially if you’re far away.
Based on the 2-step approach to solving behavior problems, how would you fix the behavior?
1. First decide what replacement behavior you want and how you will reinforce it using positive reinforcement. Note that
“not rolling” or “not doing xx behavior” does not answer the question. You must actually define a behavior that you would
rather have, such as come when called, walk away, or sit and wait for you.
For instance, you decide that instead of rolling in the seaweed you’d like her to come when called. So, instead of yelling or
chasing her, you will train her to come immediately when you call her, and then you’ll reward her with treats she really likes.
2. Decide what is reinforcing the unwanted behavior and how you will remove that reinforcer (with negative punishment)
or prevent her from getting reinforced. The act of rolling (tactile reinforcement) and getting scent on fur (olfactory
reinforcement) are reinforcing. Theoretically, if you could remove the dog’s ability to smell the scent or appreciate the tactile
feel of the seaweed, the behavior of rolling in seaweed would extinguish (i.e., weaken, diminish). Although it’s important to go
through the process of identifying the reinforcer and figuring out how to remove it, in this case, the potential solution is not
realistic. Nor could you rig up the seaweed to magically disappear as soon as the dog started approaching.
In this case, a suitable way to prevent Fufu from receiving reinforcement would be to call her away before she gets to the
seaweed or to keep her on leash in that area. Note that when training the come when called with the seaweed distraction, you’ll
want her on leash anyway at first so that she can only come when called and never have the opportunity to ignore your verbal
cue and roll in seaweed anyway, a self-rewarding experience.
1. You own a horse that lives in a stable, and you feed him twice a day. Lately he’s started developing a habit where he kicks the stall
door around feeding time and doesn’t stop until you’ve fed him. Why does he do this, and how would you fix the problem?
2. Every day when you walk your dog, he pulls on the leash. Because he’s 60 pounds and very strong, this makes walks a pain. He
especially pulls when he’s close to the park where he wants to play, when he sees another dog he wants to greet and when he wants
to go sniff a bush. Sometimes you try to walk faster, but he still pulls. Why is he pulling, and how can you fix it?
3. Every morning your cat wakes you up at 5:00 a.m. He cries and cries and even climbs all over you when you’re lying in bed.
Sometimes you push him off the bed, but he continues anyway until you feed him. Why does the cat wake you up every morning?
How should you fix the problem?
61
The 4 Categories of Operant Conditioning

The following questions depict a behavior that you want to change. Describe one technique for each category of operant conditioning.
Make sure you define the behaviors of interest: the target behavior to fix and the behavior you want to decrease. Use appropriate
terminology (e.g., add/remove, increase/decrease the likelihood a behavior will occur again). Precise wording is essential to ensure
that you clearly understand the terminology and can articulate the answer in a manner that conveys understanding. It is also needed to
convince your audience that you’re knowledgeable and to increase your listeners’ comprehension.
The 3-Step approach to classifying techniques into the correct operant conditioning category: To classify techniques properly into
the correct operant conditioning quadrant you must:
1. First, define the behaviors you’re talking about. In this practice problem, you will define a behavior you want to fix and one that
you want to strengthen (a replacement behavior).
2. Next, determine whether you are increasing or decreasing a given behavior. If your goal is to increase the behavior, then you
will, by definition, use reinforcement. If your goal is to decrease the behavior, then, by definition, you’ll use punishment.
3. Finally, determine whether you are adding something or removing something and whether it’s aversive or desirable. For this
part of the process, you’ll actually need to know the definitions.
• With positive reinforcement, you are adding something desirable to increase the likelihood the behavior will occur again.
• With positive punishment, you are adding something aversive to decrease the likelihood the behavior will occur again.
• With negative reinforcement, you are removing something aversive to increase the likelihood that the behavior will occur again.
• With negative punishment, you are removing something desirable to decrease the likelihood that a behavior will occur again.
Example: An owner complains that when she tries to open the front door to take her dog, Pumpkin, on a walk, he pushes past
her and rushes out. What techniques can be used to address this situation? Describe a technique for each category of operant
conditioning even if it’s a technique you would not recommend.
1. Define the behavior(s) you are talking about—the behavior you want to fix and one that you want to strengthen (a
replacement behavior).
The behavior to fix: rushing past and out the door

The behavior to strengthen (replacement behavior): sit-stay until given the cue to go through the door.
2. Determine whether you are increasing or decreasing a given behavior and whether you are using reinforcement or punishment.
Rushing past and out the door: decrease this behavior with punishment
Sit-stay: increase this behavior with reinforcement
3. Determine whether you are adding or removing something and whether it’s aversive or desirable.
Positive reinforcement: Give a treat (add something desirable) that Pumpkin likes when he sits and remains seated at the
door to increase the likelihood that he will sit and remain seated in the future.
62
Negative reinforcement: Shock him at a low level with an electronic collar until he sits and then remove the shock
(remove an aversive) as soon as he sits to increase the likelihood he’ll sit the next time in the same situation. (You must
specifically state in your answer “Remove an aversive shock as soon as the dog sits.”) Note that Dr. Yin is not advocating
this technique; it’s just an example that fits the category.
Positive punishment: Shock him with an electronic collar (add an aversive) when he’s trying to rush by to decrease the
likelihood that he’ll rush by the next time in the same situation. Note that Dr. Yin is not advocating this technique; it’s just
an example that fits the category.
Negative punishment: Remove his access to rushing by and out the door (remove something desirable) by blocking him or
closing the door (so his escape route visibly disappears). Do this as soon as he makes any move to rush by. By doing so you
will decrease the likelihood that he will try to rush by you in the future.
1. Your pet potbellied pig nudges you with his dirty snout when he wants to be petted. You can’t stand this behavior. What
techniques can be used to address this situation? Describe a technique for each category of operant conditioning even if it’s a
technique you would not recommend. Make sure you use key words such as increase, decrease, add, remove, etc.
2. Your friend has a cat that gets onto the couch whenever she and her roommates sit on the couch to watch TV. The cat jumps
up because he likes getting attention from humans. This bothers the humans because they don’t like her up there when they
are sitting on the couch. Define the behavior(s) of interest, and then describe a technique for each category of operant conditioning.
63

PRACTICE EXERCISES
These activities will give you practice understanding and applying the essential foundations of learning theory.
Exercise 1: Determine what’s motivating to your patients. With 3 patients, try praise, petting, food, toys, etc., and note which of these
they are and are not motivated by. Describe the body language and behavior of the animal that indicated what it was motivated by.
Dog
Type of Motivator Motivated? Describe how you know.

Praise
Petting
Toys
Food (what kinds?)
Cat
Type of Motivator Motivated? Describe how you know.

Praise
Petting
Toys
Food (what kinds?)
64
Exercise 2: Recount a time in the hospital when you accidentally rewarded (trained) an inappropriate behavior in a patient. What
behavior could you have trained instead, and how could you have removed rewards for the unwanted behavior within 0.5 seconds?
Exercise 3: Consider a situation in the hospital where a patient is demonstrating a problem behavior such as pulling, jumping or
hyperactivity. Answer the questions below and try to implement the techniques.
QUESTION ANSWER
Name the unwanted behavior.
What might be reinforcing it?
What behavior would you rather have?
How can you reinforce the replacement behavior (even before

the unwanted behavior occurs)?
How can you remove the reinforcement for incorrect behavior

within 0.5 seconds or set up the situation so that the pet does
not have a chance to perform the unwanted behavior?
What were the results of your training attempt?
65


Perform this exercise on 3 dogs, one of which is a dog with high energy.
Delivering Treats to a Sitting Dog: Handler’s Technique

SCORE
1. Accuracy/timing 1: Handler delivers treat when dog is sitting.
of treat delivery 0: Handler delivers treat before the dog is seated or after the dog gets up.
2. Treat placement 1: Handler delivers treat all the way to dog’s mouth and holds for at least 0.5
seconds such that dog remains seated and looking at the handler.
0: Handler gives the treat in a way that causes the dog to look away, lean
forward, stand up or grab due to treat placed too far away.
3. Posture and 1: Between treats, handler stands with back straight and arms centered and
arm placement bent at 90°; when delivering the treat, handler keeps body/back straight,
keeps non-treat arm stationary and straightens treat arm to deliver the treat,
bending knees if necessary.
0: Handler leans over the dog, does not keep hands centered, allows hands to
dangle, or does not straighten treat hand all the way when delivering the treat.
4. Treat delivery 1: Time it takes to deliver treat from neutral hand position to the dog’s mouth
speed is ≤ 0.2 seconds unless the dog is fearful; if this is the case, handler delivers
the treat at an appropriate speed.
0: Handler delivers the treat at slower than 0.2 seconds to a comfortable dog
or delivers the treat too quickly for a fearful dog, causing her to show
fearful/anxious body language or behavior.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 4/4
66
CHAPTER 4 | ADDITIONAL REQUIRED RESOURCES
Additional Required Resources for Gold-Level Certification

Yin, Sophia. Dog Training is a Technical Skill: Treat Delivery Speed.
http://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/dog-training-is-a-technical-skill-treat-delivery-speed.
67
68
CHAPTER 5
Chapter 5: Feline Lab: Towel Wrap Techniques for Handling

Cats with Skill and Ease
from DVD of the same title
Summary: The traditional methods of handling were to scruff, stretch and force-restrain cats. The result: bites, scratches and
veterinary staff who were unsure of how to keep safe. Learn low stress towel wrap techniques that will help you handle cats with skill
and ease. Cats will remain calm and cooperative, and veterinarians and technicians will be confident handling their feline patients.
Course Objectives:
1. Learn how to apply 6 towel wraps on cats to keep them feeling comfortable and secure and a seventh wrap for emergency situations.
2. Recognize common handler errors that can cause cats to struggle instead of calm down.
3. Evaluate which wraps are appropriate for a given cat, and learn how to know when to choose something else.
INDEX
a. One-Person Wrap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
b. Burrito Wrap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
c. Half-burrito Wrap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
d. Scarf Wrap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
e. Modified Scarf Wrap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
f. Blanket Wrap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
g. Emergency Blanket Wrap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
h. Modified Emergency Blanket Wrap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Related Resources
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 15: Restraint for Standard Positions in Cats. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of
69

1. What are the 7 different toweling techniques covered in this DVD?
2. What position should the cat be in so that you can towel him properly?
3. If the cat is too big for one towel, how should you modify the towel?
4. Which wraps cover the head?
5. Which wrap allows a front leg to be exposed?
6. With the burrito wrap, how tightly should you wrap the towel and how should you monitor the cat?
7. List 3 things you need to do to keep the cat in position when you start the burrito wrap.
8. When is the burrito wrap useful? What other wrap is most similar to the burrito wrap?
9. What is the difference between a full burrito wrap and a half burrito wrap? What type of procedures could you use the half burrito
wrap for? Can you use this wrap if you want to cover the cat’s head?
10. What should you do if the cat tries to move forward as you start the half burrito wrap?
70
11. The half burrito wrap and scarf wrap are similar. Why would you need to know two different wraps that do the same thing? What is
the difference between them?
12. What is the modified scarf wrap useful for?
13. With the modified scarf wrap, when should you start with the cat in the center of the towel vs. more towards one side?
14. With the modified scarf wrap, what should you do if you can’t easily extend the cat’s front leg?
15. In what situations would you use the blanket wrap?
16. How do you keep the cat from moving forward when you place the blanket wrap?
17. How do you keep the cat from moving from side to side when placing the blanket wrap?
18. What’s the difference between the blanket wrap and the emergency blanket wrap (variation 1)?
19. What’s the emergency blanket wrap useful for?
20. How does variation 2 of the emergency blanket wrap differ from variation 1?
21. What are the 3 most common errors people make when capturing a cat in the blanket wrap?
71

PRACTICE EXERCISES
These activities will give you practice applying the towel wrapping techniques for handling cats.
Exercise 1: With a cat that has a history of being fearful, anxious or difficult to handle in the hospital, apply the most appropriate towel
wrapping technique and answer the following questions.
QUESTION ANSWER
Cat’s history
How did you determine that a towel wrap technique might be

appropriate?
Which wrap(s) did you use?
How did you decide which wrap to use?
How did the wrap affect the ease of the procedure/restraint?
Did the cat appear to feel more comfortable and less stressed?
(What measures allowed you to make this assessment?)
Would you do anything different next time?
72
Exercise 2: Using a friendly cat, practice one of the emergency towel wrap techniques with the cat on a table or in a cage. Were you
able to complete the wrap within 1.5-2 seconds? Was the cat fully encompassed in the wrap in a manner that would prevent your being
bitten and prevent the cat from struggling or escaping?
Exercise 3: Use the modified scarf wrap so that you have a front leg free to perform a cephalic venipuncture or place a cephalic catheter.
Discuss how this experience was different from how you’ve done this in the past, and how this helped you feel safe and the cat act more
relaxed.
73

One-Person Wrap – Handler’s Technique

SCORE
1. Cat position 1: Handler places cat in center of towel with enough in front of head to cover
on towel the head (~6-10 in.). Handler should restrain cat in a “down” position by
maintaining gentle pressure over the cat’s shoulders.
0: Cat is placed off-center, not enough towel in the front or handler is unable
to keep cat lying down
2. Keep the cat 1: Handler places hand over cat’s shoulders and arm along cat’s spine to hold
in place cat in place.
0: Handler fails to keep hand on cat’s shoulders or fails to have arm in close
contact with cat’s spine, allowing cat to struggle.
3. Cat against 1: Handler has the cat’s side against his body to control movement.
handler 0: Too much space between cat and handler such that cat can squirm or
get loose.
4. Place the wrap 1: Handler pulls towel over cat’s head, folds one side over cat and pulls the
other side snug.
0: Handler fails to cover cat’s head enough to prevent forward movement or
fails to fold the sides snugly enough to prevent movement.
5. Secure the wrap 1: Handler twists the top bundle and scruffs the towel snuggly to prevent
excess movement.
0: Handler fails to snug the towel to prevent excess movement.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 5/5
74
Burrito Wrap – Handler’s Technique

SCORE
1. Cat position 1: Handler places cat in center of towel with enough in front of head to cover
on towel the head (~6-10 in.). Handler should restrain cat in a “down” position by
maintaining gentle pressure over the cat’s shoulders
0: Cat is placed off-center, not enough towel in the front or handler is unable
to keep cat lying down
2. Keep the cat 1: Handler keeps arm along cat’s spine and keeps fingers split so that they are
in place on either side of the neck.
0: Handler fails to have arm in close contact with cat’s spine, is not holding
neck correctly or cat is struggling because of lack of support.
3. Cat against 1: Handler has the rear end of the cat against her body to prevent backwards
handler movement.
0: Handler leaves too much space between cat and handler such that cat can
squirm or get loose.
4. Place the wrap 1: Handler lays edge of towel over the cat’s head, folds one side over, keeping
her arm underneath the towel and ensuring the folded towel is snug.
0: Handler fails to cover cat’s head enough to prevent forward movement,
fails to keep her arm underneath the towel or fails to fold snugly
enough to prevent movement.
5. Switch arms 1: Handler lays the other arm that is not under the towel over the towel and
places that hand over the cat’s neck as she removes the lower arm from
under the towel.
0: Handler removes arm from under towel before placing other arm on top or
doesn’t place a hand on the neck on top of the towel.
6. Secure the wrap 1: Handler folds the second side of the towel over, makes sure it’s snug and
then tucks it under the cat.
0: Handler fails to fold the towel snugly enough to prevent movement or fails
to tuck it under the cat.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 6/6
75
Half-Burrito Wrap – Handler’s Technique

SCORE
1. Cat position 1: Handler places cat in center of towel as in the Burrito Wrap but even with or
on towel with only 1-2 in. of towel in front of the head. Handler should restrain cat
in a “down” position by maintaining gentle pressure over the cat’s shoulders
0: Cat is placed off-center, too much towel in the front or handler is unable to
keep cat lying down.
3. Cat against 1: Handler keeps the rear end of the cat against the handler’s body to prevent
handler backwards movement.
0: Too much space between cat and handler such that cat can squirm or
get loose.
4. Prevent forward 1: Handler pulls front of towel up and around the front and neck and then
movement grasps each of the sides with one hand (effectively scruffing the towel).
0: Handler fails to scruff the towel snugly enough to keep the cat in place.
5. Place the wrap 1: Handler folds one side over, keeping her arm underneath the towel and
ensuring the folded towel is snug.
0: Handler fails to keep her arm underneath the towel or fails to fold snugly
enough to prevent movement.
6. Switch arms 1: To switch arms, handler lays the arm that is not under the towel over the
towel and places that hand over the cat’s neck as she removes the lower arm
from under the towel.
0: Handler removes arm from under towel before placing other arm on top or
doesn’t place a hand on the neck on top of the towel.
7. Secure the wrap 1: Handler folds the second side of the towel over and makes sure it’s snug and
then tucks it under the cat.
0: Handler fails to fold the towel snugly enough to prevent movement or fails
to tuck it under the cat.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 7/7
76
Scarf Wrap – Handler’s Technique

SCORE
1. Cat position 1: Handler places cat in center of towel with about 2 in. of towel in front of
on towel the head so that it extends beyond the paws. Handler should restrain cat in
a “down” position by maintaining gentle pressure over the cat’s shoulders
0: Cat is placed off-center, too much towel in the front or handler is unable to
keep cat lying down.
4. Place the wrap 1: Handler takes a top corner of the towel and wraps it around the cat’s neck
like a scarf, then repeats this with the other corner of the towel.
0: Handler fails to start with the corners of the towel or fails to wrap either
side all the way around the neck.
5. Prevent getting 1: At all times, handler avoids placing hands near the cat’s mouth and
bitten. continues to “scruff ” excess towel at the base of the cat’s ears with one hand.
0: When wrapping the towel, handler brings arm or hand within biting range
of the cat’s mouth, or stops scruffing the excess towel.
6. Tidy the wrap 1: Handler tidies the back end of the towel after wrapping each end of
the scarf.
0: Handler fails to tidy the back end snugly enough to prevent the cat from
squirming or escaping.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 6/6
77
Modified Scarf Wrap – Handler’s Technique

SCORE
1. Cat position 1: Handler places cat about 1/3 of towel length from the edge with about 2
on towel in. of towel in front of the head so that it extends beyond the paws. Handler
should restrain cat in a “down” position by maintaining gentle pressure over
the cat’s shoulders
0: Cat is placed in the center or too close to the edge, too much towel is in the
front or handler is unable to keep cat lying down.
0: Too much space between cat and handler such that cat can squirm or
get loose.
4. First corner of 1: Handler takes the top corner of the short side of the towel and wraps it
modified scarf around the cat’s neck like a scarf.
wrap 0: Handler fails to start with the short side of the towel or fails to wrap it all
the way around the neck.
5. Position the 1: Handler extends the cat’s front leg by applying gentle pressure behind the
exposed leg cat’s elbow (or originally placed the cat on the towel such that the front edge
was already behind the elbow of one front leg).
0: Handler did not extend one front leg or does so in such a way as to make the
cat uncomfortable and struggle.
6. Second corner of 1: Handler positions the second side of the towel behind the cat’s elbow or
modified scarf slides the towel into this position as he wraps the corner around the cat’s neck.
wrap 0: Handler fails to start with the corner of the towel, fails to get the towel
properly placed such that one front leg is exposed, or fails to wrap it all the
way around the neck.
7. Prevent getting 1: At all times, handler avoids placing hands near the cat’s mouth and
bitten continues to “scruff ” excess towel at the base of the cat’s ears with one hand.
0: When wrapping the towel, handler brings arm or hand within biting range
of the cat’s mouth, or stops scruffing the excess towel.
8. Tidy the wrap 1: Handler tidies the back end of the towel after wrapping each end of the scarf.
0: Handler fails to tidy the back end snugly enough to prevent the cat from
squirming or escaping.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 8/8
78
Blanket Wrap – Handler’s Technique

SCORE
1. Holding the towel 1: Prior to beginning the wrap, handler starts with edge of towel held between
thumbs and index fingers (palms facing medially). Handler’s arms are
shoulder width apart.
0: Edge of towel is not between thumbs and index fingers, palms are not facing
medially, handler’s arms are too widely or narrowly placed.
2. Place towel over 1: Handler places towel over the cat including the head and places forearms
the cat and palms flat onto the table parallel to and directly on either side of the cat.
0: Handler fails to get the towel over the entire cat, places arms at an angle, or
fails to have arms and hands flat on the table.
3. Fold the front of 1: Handler folds towel over with fingers while palms are still flat on the table
the towel creating a seal in the front of the towel.
0: Handler lifts hands off the table, and/or the cat escapes.
4. Gather the cat 1: Handler pulls elbows back slightly towards her body while simultaneously
bringing the forearms together underneath the cat with handler’s elbows together.
0: Handler doesn’t pull elbows back, doesn’t bring forearms together or fails to
gather cat’s entire body above the forearms
5. Seal the front of 1: Handler brings wrists together then gathers the front end of towel with one
the wrap hand so that it remains closed in the front.
0: Handler uses 2 hands to gather the towel or fails to gather the front all the
way closed to prevent the cat from squirming or escaping.
6. Rotate and lower 1: Handler gently lowers cat onto his side and removes arm from underneath
the cat the towel, while keeping other arm on top of the cat and keeping the towel closed.
0: Handler moves cat roughly or slams him onto the table; handler doesn’t
keep one arm on top of the cat.
7. Wrap excess towel 1: To switch hands, handler places the other hand and arm over the towel,
grasping the front of the towel while keeping the towel snug. Then handler
removes the first hand and uses it to wrap the excess towel over the cat.
0: Handler fails to grasp the front of the towel, fails to wrap the towel snugly
enough to prevent movement by the cat, or wraps the cat too tightly.
8. Switch hands to 1: To switch hands, handler places the other hand and arm over the towel,
tuck the leftover grasping the front of the towel while keeping the towel snug. Then handler
towel under removes the first hand that’s under the towel and uses it to snug the towel
the cat under the cat.
0: Handler fails to grasp the front of the towel, fails to wrap the towel snugly
enough to prevent movement by the cat, or wraps the cat too tightly.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 8/8
79
Emergency Blanket Wrap – Handler’s Technique

SCORE
1. Holding the towel 1: Handler begins as in Blanket Wrap, with edge of towel held between thumbs
and index fingers.
0: Handler fails to get the towel over the entire cat, places arms at an angle, or
3. Fold the front of 1: Handler folds towel over with fingers while palms are still flat on the table
the towel creating a seal in the front of the towel.
0: Handler lifts hands off the table, and/or the cat escapes.
4. Gather the cat 1: Handler pulls elbows back slightly towards her body while simultaneously
bringing the forearms together underneath the cat with handler’s elbows together.
0: Handler doesn’t pull elbows back, doesn’t bring forearms together or fails to
gather cat’s entire body above the forearms
5. Seal the front of 1: As handler’s wrists come together, she gathers the front end of towel with
the wrap one hand so that it remains closed in the front.
0: Handler uses 2 hands to gather the towel or fails to gather the front all the
way closed to prevent the cat from squirming or escaping.
6. Bring cat to body 1: Handler then positions the cat lateral to her body so the cat remains
encompassed in the towel.
0: The cat is not held close enough to handler’s body or the cat is not wrapped
completely in the towel and thus is able to squirm significantly or escape.
7. Speed of wrap 1: Handler completes Emergency Wrap in 1.5 seconds or less.

0: Handler takes longer than 1.5 seconds or the cat is able to escape.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 7/7
80
Modified Emergency Blanket Wrap – Handler’s Technique

SCORE
1. Holding the towel 1: Handler begins as in Blanket Wrap, with edge of towel held between thumbs
and index fingers.
0: Handler fails to get the towel over the entire cat, places arms at an angle or
3. Capture the cat 1: Handler folds towel over with fingers while palms are still flat on the table
while simultaneously sweeping one arm medially towards the other arm
and gathering the towel in front of the cat so that when the two hands meet
there’s no opening in front of the towel.
0: Handler doesn’t keep palms flat on table, doesn’t sweep one arm towards
the other, fails to gather cat’s entire body above the forearms or doesn’t
gather enough towel in the front to keep the front end closed.
4. Pull elbows back 1: Handler pulls elbows back into her body while sweeping one hand to
the other.
0: Handler doesn’t pull her elbows back far enough.
5. Hold the front 1: Once both hands are together, handler holds the front closed with just the
closed sweeping hand.
0: Handler uses the wrong hand or both hands to hold the front closed.
6. Bring cat to body 1: Handler removes the opposite hand while continuing the sweep and pulling
the cat all the way to her body.
0: Handler fails to pull cat close enough towards her body.
7. Speed of wrap 1: Handler completes Modified Emergency Wrap in 1.5 seconds or less.
0: Handler takes longer than 1.5 seconds or the cat is able to escape.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 7/7
One-Person Burrito Half-burrito Scarf Wrap Modified Blanket Emergency Modified

Wrap Wrap Wrap Scarf Wrap Wrap Blanket Emergency
Wrap Blanket
Wrap
Score:
82
CHAPTER 6
Chapter 6: Kitty Kindergarten: Creating the New Improved

Cat Through Early Socialization
online lecture only, DVD production in process
Summary: Potty problems? Inter-cat aggression? Antisocial behavior? Many people think that these are part of a cat’s nature or
just something they need to accept. It turns out that these and most other cat behavior issues can be prevented with early socialization
and training. A few techniques applied early can change the course of a kitten’s life.
Course Objectives:
1. Understand the sensitive period of socialization—what it is, why it’s important and how appropriate experiences during this time can
help you create a friendly, interactive and sociable cat.
2. Learn how to desensitize and counter-condition cats so they enjoy toenail trims, injections and handling procedures, making
treatments at home or in the hospital a breeze.
3. Train cats simple but essential tricks such as sit, come and touch their nose to a target. These tricks can be used to replace
unwanted behaviors.
4. Identify the components necessary for a successful kitten socialization program.
INDEX
a. Desensitize/Countercondition to Lying on Back . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
b. Desensitize/Countercondition to Toenail Trim While Lying on Back . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
c. Teach a Kitten to Sit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
d. Teach a Kitten to Target . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
4. Additional Required Resources for Gold Level Certification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Related Resources
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 18: Counter-Conditioning Protocols. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 20: Preventive Behavioral Health for Kittens. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification
83

1. Why is it best to start socializing your kitten when he’s young?
2. What is a sensitive period for socialization and approximately when does it occur in cats?
3. What are some things you should socialize your kitten to and why?
4. How should you train your kitten to enjoy new environments (and ensure he enjoys them rather than simply tolerates them)?
5. How can you tell when your cat is having a positive experience vs. when your cat is fearful and anxious?
6. What types of potentially stressful situations should you socialize your kitten to, while ensuring he has positive experiences?
7. What types of handling and veterinary procedures should you counter-condition your kitten to? Describe how you would
classically counter-condition something. Explain it as if giving instructions to someone else.
8. Why should you socialize your kitten to new people and animals if he is always going to be indoors only?
9. What is the general approach to solving behavior problems in cats?
84
10. What common behaviors can and should kittens be trained to do? How can they be used as replacement behaviors for unwanted
behaviors the kitten may perform?
11. When training a behavior such as come when called, when should you add the cue word?
12. Explain how you’d train a kitten to target. Explain in enough detail that someone could do it correctly by reading your explanation.
85

PRACTICE EXERCISES
These activities will give you practice performing the exercises used to socialize and train kittens and adult cats.
Exercise 1: Train a kitten to sit using a treat. Avoid saying the word “sit”—just focus on rewarding the kitten when she’s sitting. Then
train the kitten to target (touch nose to an object). Again, just reward the targeting behavior and avoid using the word “target.”
Training Sit
QUESTION ANSWER
How long did it take to train the kitten to sit?
How did treat location or type of treat affect the learning?
List 3 problem behaviors that the “sit” behavior can be used to

replace.
Training Target
QUESTION ANSWER
How long did it take to train the kitten to take 3 steps to touch
a target?
How did target placement (holding it out of view, then clearly

presenting it at nose level, then removing it as soon as the
kitten touches it with her nose) affect the training?
List 3 problem behaviors that the “target” behavior can be used

to replace.
86
Exercise 2: Create a list of 3 handling procedures you’d like to train a kitten to enjoy using desensitization and counterconditioning.
Examples include having her paws handled, being held in odd positions, placing her on her back in your lap, handling for injections
and scruffing (in case someone scruffs her in the future). Practice your timing on a stuffed animal first, then on a real cat, and answer
the questions below.
Desensitization and Counterconditioning to

1.
2.
3.
STEPS Describe for behaviors 1, 2, & 3

Describe your timing of the treat and handling.
Describe your placement of the treat.
What body language might you see that would indicate that
you are approaching or going over threshold?
87


Desensitize/Countercondition to Lying on Back
SCORE
1. Positioning the 1:While sitting in a chair with legs together and cat sitting on lap facing
kitten away, handler places one hand under the chest with 2 fingers between
the legs on the chest, the thumb on the lateral portion of the chest, and
the remaining fingers on the opposite side-lateral portion of the chest. The
other hand is on the hip that’s closer to you.
0: Hands are not positioned correctly as described.
2. Positioning the 1: Handler lifts the kitten and rotates her using both hands so that the kitten
kitten, step 2 is placed on her side on handler’s leg and then rolled gently onto her back
such that the kitten rests in the crevice between the handler’s legs.
0: Handler fails to rotate both hands enough or place the kitten such that the
roll can be completed correctly.
3. Restraining the 1: Handler keeps one hand on kitten’s chest and along the kitten’s chest to
kitten on its back prevent the kitten from getting up (or on the proximal aspect of front legs).
0: Handler fails to keep the kitten from struggling or getting up.
4. Reward with treats 1: Provide treats at first frequently and then with more time in between them.
0: Treats are too infrequent.
5. Increasing criteria 1: Handler incrementally adds time between treats while kitten is held in
position until the kitten can be placed onto her back and given a
reward afterwards.
0: Handler fails to give additional treats while the kitten is held in position,
increases the interval between treats too quickly such that the kitten
struggles or fails to increase the interval between treats.
6. Treat placement 1: Handler places the treat in a location where the kitten’s head can remain flat
on the handler’s legs.
0: Handler places the treat so the kitten has to reach for it or has difficulty
eating it.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 6/6
88
Desensitize/Countercondition to Toenail Trim While Lying on Back

SCORE
1. Introduce food 1: While kitten is on back, deliver the food to the kitten’s mouth in a location
that keeps the cat in position.
0: Handler feeds the kitten so that it has to reach or struggle to eat the food, or
handler waits too long to introduce food.
2. Appropriate level 1: Once the kitten is eating, the handler introduces the nail trimmers (or other
of handling lower level stimulus, such as hand touching the foot) at a low enough level
for about 3-5 seconds so that the kitten stays happy and relaxed.
0: Handler introduces the nail trimmers at too high of a level (i.e., handling
too roughly) so as to cause fear or nervousness in the kitten, or handler
introduces the stimulus when the kitten is still moving or is showing fear.
3. Removing 1: Handler removes the nail trimmers just prior to removing the treat.
handling and food 0: Handler removes the nail trimmers after removing the treat or allows kitten
to wiggle out of position.
4. Increasing criteria 1: Handler incrementally adds time between treats while kitten is held in
position until the kitten can be placed onto his back and given a reward
afterwards.
0: Handler fails to give additional treats while the kitten is held in position,
increases the interval between treats too quickly such that the kitten
struggles, or fails to increase the interval between treats.
5. Session duration 1: Handler keeps sessions short enough to avoid signs of agitation in the kitten.
0: Handler allows kitten to show signs of prolonged distress or fear before stopping.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 6/6
89
Teach a Kitten to Sit – Handler’s Technique

Hint: This exercise is easiest when done with the kitten on an exam (or similar) table.
SCORE
1. Luring a sit 1: Handler places treat all the way up to the kitten’s nose and raises it slightly
until the kitten sits.
0: Handler fails to keep the treat at the kitten’s nose throughout the lure.
2. Luring a sit 1: If the kitten tries to paw or jump, the handler moves hand far enough away
(prevent pawing/ so it’s clearly out of reach.
jumping) 0: Kitten tries to paw or jump and handler takes longer than 0.5 seconds to
remove food out of reach.
3. Accuracy/timing 1: Handler delivers treat when kitten is sitting.

of treat delivery 0: Handler delivers treat before the kitten is seated or after the kitten gets up.
4. Treat placement 1: Handler delivers treat all the way to kitten’s mouth such that kitten remains
seated.
0: Handler gives the treat in a way that causes the kitten to lean forward, stand
up or paw at the treat (or fails to remove the treat within 0.5 seconds of the
kitten pawing the treat).
5. Interval of treats 1: Handler gives one treat for sitting and additional treats for remaining
seated. Handler also incrementally increases the interval between treats
while kitten remains seated.
0: Handler fails to give additional treats while the kitten is sitting, increases
the interval between treats too quickly such that the kitten gets up or fails to
increase the interval between treats.
6. Session duration 1: Handler keeps sessions short enough such that the kitten is motivated for
the food for the entire session.
0: Handler extends the session until the kitten becomes satiated.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 5/5 or 6/6
90
Teach a Kitten to Target – Handler’s Technique

Hint: This exercise is easiest when done with the kitten on an exam (or similar) table.
SCORE
1. Presenting the 1: Between repetitions, handler holds target up and out of range. When
target presented, handler places target at nose level within the kitten’s view and
keeps it stationary.
0: Handler fails to place the target at nose level within view or fails to raise the
target between repetitions.
2. Marking the 1: Immediately after the kitten touches her nose to the target, handler marks
correct behavior the correct behavior with a salient verbal “Yes!” or clicker and then raises
the target and replaces it with a treat.
0: Handler fails to mark the correct behavior or waits ≥ 0.5 seconds or even
until after the next behavior occurs, or handler marks the correct behavior
while or after delivering the treat.
3. Treat placement 1: Handler delivers treat all the way to kitten’s mouth.
0: Handler gives the treat in a way that causes the kitten to paw at the treat (or
fails to remove the treat within 0.5 seconds of the kitten pawing the treat).
4. Increasing criteria 1: Handler begins with target presented close enough to the kitten’s face that
kitten only has to turn head or stretch neck. Then handler incrementally
presents the target farther from the kitten such that the kitten has to move
farther to touch the target. Goal is for the kitten to take 3 steps to touch
the target.
0: Handler fails to increase criteria or moves on to a larger distance before the
kitten is ready such that the kitten does not successfully touch the target for
≥ 3 attempts.
5. If the kitten 1: If the kitten fails to touch the target within 2 seconds, handler raises the
fails to touch the target and then repeats the trial.
target… 0: Handler waves the target around to get the kitten’s attention or moves the
target to touch the kitten.
6. Session duration 1: Handler keeps sessions short enough such that the kitten is motivated for
the food for the entire session.
0: Handler extends the session until the kitten becomes satiated.
Passing Score:
(100%) 6/6
91
Additional Required Resources for Gold Level Certification

Yin, Sophia. Teaching A Kitten to Touch His Nose to a Target (video). http://drsophiayin.com/lowstress/resources.(Low Stress
Handling Reader Resources page accessible to those who have purchased Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of
Dogs & Cats (book and DVD).
92
CHAPTER 7
Chapter 7: Canine Lab: Essential Exercises for Moving Dogs

from Place to Place
From Handling, Moving, and Restraining Dogs in Stressful Environments, Part 1:
A Workshop on Essential Exercises with Special Techniques for Medium and Large Dogs
Summary: Are you uncomfortable handling large, hyperactive or seemingly aggressive dogs? Did you know that if you’re unaware
of how the dog perceives every interaction, you could be giving unclear or conflicting cues, which can cause him to become confused,
fearful and even aggressive? Learn the Low Stress Handling techniques that will allow you to provide clear direction and hence have
good control to improve both your confidence in handling and the dog’s confidence in you.
Course Objectives:
1. Recognize how every interaction—even how you guide the animal from place to place—affects the animal’s perception of you,
his level of fear and frustration, and his willingness to cooperate.
2. Practice exercises that will teach you how subtle differences in posture, speed and direction of movement dramatically affect
your ability to provide clear direction.
3. Learn how to skillfully move dogs into position in a way that gives clear guidance, thereby increasing the dog’s confidence in
you and decreasing his confusion and anxiety.
INDEX:
a. Fundamental Leash-walking Skills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
b. About-turn (T-turn Footwork) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
c. U-Turn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
d. Stopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
e. Front Cross . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
f. Rear Cross 180º Direction Change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
Related Resources:
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 9: Moving Dogs Around the Facility. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs
93

from Place to Place
1. Why is it important to work on human-only exercises first without the dog?
2. When walking dogs, why is it important to walk at an appropriate speed and to learn how to efficiently and clearly perform changes
in direction and speed?
3. What is the ideal speed in beats per minute for walking the majority of healthy dogs and why?
4. What is an about-turn? Explain how to perform the about-turn correctly.
5. When performing an about-turn, what are 4 common mistakes?
6. What is a U-turn? Explain how to perform the U-turn correctly.
7. When performing a U-turn, what are two common mistakes?
8. What is the purpose of the about-turn? When would you use it compared with the U-turn?
9. What is the purpose of a U-turn? When would you use it compared with the about-turn?
10. What is the proper way to hold the leash?
11. Why is it important that the leash hang loosely in a “U” when the dog is walking next to your side?
94
12. When should the leash be tight?
13. How do you signal with the leash and with your body language that you are going to stop, and when should you start this signaling?
14. Describe 4 common mistakes handlers make when trying to signal a dog to stop.
15. If the dog you’re walking slows down to look at another dog or to sniff, or fails to change direction, what should you do?
16. When performing a front cross—where you change from one side of the dog to the other (in front of the dog) while you and the
dog are walking—what are 2 common mistakes?
17. When performing a rear cross with 180° direction change – where you change from one side of the dog to the other by crossing
behind the dog and changing directions simultaneously – what are 2 common mistakes?
95

from Place to Place
PRACTICE EXERCISES
These activities will give you practice using Low Stress Handling techniques when handling, moving and restraining dogs in
stressful environments.
Exercise 1: Without a dog, practice your leash handling technique. Attach a leash to something that is the height of a dog’s neck.
1. Practice holding the leash correctly, with your hand through the loop of the leash and thumbs facing upward, and the leash
loose between your hands and hanging in a loose “U” between you and the dog. See the Gold-Level Rubric if needed.
2. Practice gathering the leash in your right hand and then sliding your hand down the leash as you would need to do for signaling
a stop.
3. Next, once your dog is stationary, you would reward by loosening the leash. Drop the leash from the left hand and then lower
the right hand if needed so that the leash is hanging in a loose “U.” If the dog is likely to get up and move, you can continue
holding the least in the left hand, but it should be slack, unless the dog moves.
Approximately how many times did you need to practice before this technique became automatic? Elaborate if appropriate.
96
Exercise 2: With a person at the end of the leash (with eyes open and holding onto the leash) in place of a dog, practice your leash
technique and body language when stopping.
1. First practice your body language. Walk fast (135 bpm) and then quickly but smoothly stop. To decelerate so you can stop
smoothly, you need to shift your center of gravity backwards and place your weight on your heels. The faster you move, the
more prominent this body language will be. You may want to practice this at a jog first.
2. Practice your leash technique when stopping. As you’re walking, slide your hand down the leash towards the collar, continue
one step and then bring your feet together. In your mind, say, “Slide, step, feet together.”
Exercise 3: With a person at the end of the leash (with eyes open and holding onto the leash) in place of a dog, practice all of the
walking techniques. Practice walking fast (125 -135 bpm), performing about-turns (T-turns) and U-turns, and stopping.
1. First focus just on your footwork and body language, especially when stopping. Practice until you’re comfortable and can
consistently perform correctly and don’t have to think about your technique.
2. Then focus on handling the leash correctly. The leash should only tighten for 1-2 seconds when you have to guide the person
due to a change of direction or speed.
Approximately how many times did you need to practice before this technique became automatic? Elaborate if appropriate.
97
Exercise 4: Start with an easy dog who will walk next to you already. Practice walking fast (125 -135 bpm), performing about turns
(T-turns) and U-turns, and stopping.
1. If needed, first focus just on your footwork and body language, especially when stopping. Practice until you’re comfortable and
can consistently perform correctly and don’t have to think about your technique.
2. Then focus on handling the leash correctly. The leash should only tighten for 1-2 seconds when you have to guide the dog due
to a change of direction or speed.
QUESTION ANSWER
Are you holding the leash correctly in your hands when the dog is stationary?
When you’re walking, can you hold the leash so that it’s hanging in a loose “U” between
you and the dog when the dog is in position or getting into position? It should only be
tight for 1-2 seconds at a time.
When you change directions or need to guide the dog on course, do you remember to
speed up for 3-5 steps so that you provide clear direction? Or do you accidentally wait for
your dog (i.e., for several seconds you are not providing clear directional cues)?
Once the dog is starting to catch up or move in the right direction, do you remember to
loosen the leash again?
What difference do you see in the dog’s demeanor once you are able to perform these
techniques?
Exercise 5: Have someone act as the veterinarian while you are the handler. Practice positioning the dog in front of the veterinarian
facing different directions. Use the U-turns, about-turns, and front and rear crosses to get the dog into position smoothly. Remember
that the leash should only tighten for 1-2 seconds as you provide directional cues. Otherwise it should be hanging in a loose “U.”
How does this differ from what you did in the past? What difference do you see in the dog’s demeanor compared with dogs in the past?
98

from Place to Place
Fundamental Leash-walking Skills

For all exercises, the handler must first demonstrate proficiency in these fundamental leash-walking skills before
performing the exercise.
SCORE
1. Walking speed 1: Handler moves at approximately 125-135 bpm to keep dog moving at a trot.
0: Handler moves either too slowly or too quickly for dog to keep a
comfortable trot.
a. Place hand 1: Loop: Handler places hand into the loop handle, keeping thumbs pointed
into leash upwards.
handle loop 0: Handler holds leash with thumbs pointing downwards.
b. Fold excess 1: Fold: Handler folds up excess leash if needed into the hand that’s holding
leash the handle. Leash exits from bottom of hand.
2. Leash Techniques
0: Handler wraps or loops the leash around hands, or leash is coming out of
top of the hand.
c. Hold leash 1: Hold: Handler keeps a leash in a loose “U” between hands.
loose between 0: Handler holds the leash pulled tight between hands.
hands
d. Keep leash 1: Loose: Handler keeps the leash in a loose “U” shape between him/herself
loose between and the dog except as needed to indicate a change of direction or speed
handler and (for < 3 seconds).
dog 0: Handler keeps the leash tight instead of in a loose “U.”
3. Speeding 1: Handler speeds up by jogging 3 steps if dog goes off course. When the leash
up past tightens, it does so for only several seconds, and handler releases tension
distractions as soon as the dog starts to catch up.
0: Handler doesn’t speed up fast enough to get dog to trot or speeds up for too
many steps (i.e., continuing for 7 steps or more even after the dog has
caught up), or fails to loosen leash when dog starts to catch up.
Passing Score:
100% 5/5
99
About-Turn (T-turn Footwork) – Handler’s Technique

With dog on left side, handler’s body rotates in place 180° clockwise with dog on the outside.
(Rubric is for dog on left side, but exercise can be performed with dog on right side too.)
SCORE
1. T-step footwork 1: Handler initiates T-step by placing left foot perpendicular to right foot, then
(example when right foot perpendicular to left foot and continuing forward movement in
dog is on left side) the opposite direction with left foot.
0: Handler fails to initiate T-step with left foot, fails to complete the second
T-step with the right foot and/or takes extra steps to complete the turn.
Handler fails by stepping too far across with his feet, making “L” instead of
“T” shapes.
2. Size of steps 1: While performing the T-turn steps, handler’s first T-step is about ½ of his
during T-turn foot’s length apart.
0.5: Handler places first T-step too close (step too small), which stops forward
momentum too abruptly.
0: Handler takes large first T-turn steps by allowing his/her feet to separate
more than about ½ foot size apart causing forward movement during the
about-turn.
3. Continuous 1: Handler’s shoulders move with his hips rather than turning before the hips
momentum with turn or after the hips turn.
shoulders during 0: Handler’s shoulders turn before/after the hips turn, causing the shoulders
pivot to jerk.
4. Walking path 1: Handler walks up one straight line, performs a T-turn in place, and walks
back down the same straight line 180° in the opposite direction.
0: Handler walks up/down on a crooked path or walks on two different
straight lines.
5. Dog position 1: The T-turn pivot is performed while the dog is either even with or slightly
relative to handler ahead of the handler so that the dog doesn’t cut to the opposite side, or the
handler speeds up after turning and in doing so successfully guides the
dog to remain on the left side.
0: Handler performs pivot while dog is lagging and dog ends up on right side.
Passing Score:
100% 5/5
Challenge Questions:
1. What signals from the dog will indicate that you need to adjust your speed?
2. Name at least 2 factors during the T-turn pivot that would cause your shoulders to jerk. How would abrupt, jerky shoulder
movements affect the dog’s ability to turn?
100
3. Why is it important to hold the leash in both hands? When might you hold it in one hand?
U-Turn – Handler’s Technique

Handler turns to walk the opposite direction by walking around the dog.
SCORE
1. Walking path 1: Handler walks up one straight line, makes a 180° turn with the dog on the
inside of the turn and then walks back down a different parallel straight line.
2. Size and speed of 1: Handler takes large enough or fast enough steps to avoid colliding with dog
steps during left or causing the dog to abruptly halt.
turn 0: Handler takes steps too small or too slowly to get around the dog without
causing it to abruptly halt.
3. Dog position 1: The U-turn is performed while the dog is even with or slightly behind
relative to handler the handler.
0: The handler attempts to do a U-turn while the dog is ahead of him.
Passing Score:
100% 3/3
Stopping – Handler’s Technique

Handler stops all forward movement, coming to a complete standstill.
SCORE
1. Handler posture 1: Handler stops with weight distributed backwards. Shoulders are back
slightly by bending the knees, placing weight on heels. This posture starts
2 steps before the handler halts (second step is defined as the feet coming
together).
0: Handler leans shoulders forward and/or hunches over or stops with weight
on toes or balls of feet.
2. Slide hand 1: Handler gathers excess leash in the right hand, then slides left hand down
down leash the leash and backwards such that the hand ends up close to dog’s collar.
The slide is initiated 2 steps before stopping (the second step is defined as
the feet coming together). In other words, slide hand, then step, then
place feet together.
0: Handler fails to gather excess leash such that she must raise the right hand
upwards, fails to slide left hand down the leash, holds the leash far from
the collar, or reaches hand-over-hand causing a shoulder turn. Handler
slides down his hand too late, either while coming to a stop or afterwards.
101
3. Arm position 1: After sliding down the left hand, handler’s left arm is kept straight and
slightly behind left leg.
0: Handler’s arm is kept bent or held out and away from body.
4. Feet positioning 1: Handler stops with feet even with each other.
0: Handler stops with feet ahead of one another.
Passing Score:
100% 4/4
Positioning Changes: Moving the Dog From Left Side to Right Side
Front Cross – Handler’s Technique

In a hospital situation, you may have less room but you will still need to have the same loose leash and
momentum before and after. With the dog on the left side, the handler turns towards and “crosses” in front of the
dog to end up with the dog on the right side, both facing the same direction.
SCORE
1. Front cross 1: Handler starts the front cross with the foot closer to the dog.
footwork 0: Handler starts the front cross with the foot farther from the dog.
2. Crossing with 1: Handler initiates the cross far enough ahead of the dog to avoid collision;
sufficient room first foot should be about 1/3 to halfway across the dog. Handler maintains
and speed same or faster forward movement during cross to keep ahead of dog.
0: Handler initiates the cross next to dog or fails to speed up to keep ahead,
causing a collision or causing dog to suddenly slow down.
3. Movement path 1: Handler crosses in a straight diagonal line.

0: Handler crosses in a curved path or arc that blocks the dog’s movement.
4. Switching hands 1: Handler switches the lead from left to right hand when about halfway across
the dog.
0: Handler keeps the lead in the left hand or makes the turn holding the lead
in both hands.
pivot to jerk.
102
6. Leash guidance 1: If needed, handler guides the dog onto the correct side with < 2 seconds of
leash guidance.
0: Handler fails to guide the dog onto the correct side or needs to have > 2
seconds of leash guidance.
7. Continuous 1: Handler maintains forward momentum after cross.

momentum after 0: Handler pauses before continuing forward.
cross
Passing Score:
100% 7/7
Rear Cross 180° Direction Change – Handler’s Technique

With the dog on the left side, the handler stops and allows the dog to move slightly ahead. The handler then
switches the leash to the right hand, rotates 180° and continues in the opposite direction, guiding the dog on the
right side.
SCORE
1. Dog’s forward 1: Handler stops to allow dog to move ahead at least half of the dog’s
movement body length.
0: Handler fails to allow the dog to move at least half of a body length forward
before trying to guide into the direction change.
2. Switching hands 1: Handler switches the lead from left to right hand before or within 0.5
seconds after the dog hits the end of the leash.
0: Handler keeps the lead in the left hand or makes the turn holding the lead
in both hands.
3. Pivot back 1: Handler stops forward momentum with right foot slightly forward, then
pivots/turns in place 180° while on both feet.
0: Handler does not stop forward momentum, takes extra steps forwards/
backwards or fails to turn body 180°.
pivot to jerk.
5. Leash Guidance 1: If needed, handler guides the dog onto the correct side with < 2 seconds of
leash guidance.
0: Handler fails to guide the dog onto the correct side or needs to have > 2
seconds of leash guidance.
103
6. Continuous 1: Handler begins forward momentum in the new direction immediately

momentum after after pivoting.
cross 0: Handler pauses before walking in the new direction.
Passing Score:
100% 6/6
Challenge Question:
1. If a dog is lagging behind and you need to switch him from your left to right side, what maneuver can you use?
104
CHAPTER 8
Chapter 8: Canine Lab: Handling and Restraining Medium-

sized and Large Dogs with Skill and Ease
Summary: Have you ever had to struggle to get a dog into a position or keep him there for an exam or procedure? We often use
force to restrain uncooperative dogs when techniques that incorporate finesse would work better. With Low Stress Handling techniques
you learn how to control movement in all directions while providing the support and guidance the dog needs to feel secure.
Course Objectives:
1. Understand how to control movement of the dog’s front and rear ends in all 6 directions (front, back, right, left, up and down).
Determine which of these directions each hold controls and when to use a minimal vs. a maximal restraint hold.
2. Learn how to safely get into position to restrain a dog and identify the common mistakes people make during this transition
that increase their risk of being bitten.
3. Discover how guiding dogs through position changes (including standing to lateral) in a secure and well-supported manner can
change a dog from being resistant and even aggressive to being calm and cooperative.
INDEX:
2. Practice Exercises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
3. Gold Certification Rubrics for Handling Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
a. Practicing Minimal Restraint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
b. Moving Dog From Stand to Sit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
c. Moving Dog From Standing to Lateral Position (Front End Handler) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
d. Moving Dog From Standing to Lateral Position (Rear End Handler) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
e. Placing a Leash Muzzle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
f. Restraining for Standing Lateral Saphenous Venipuncture (2 Handlers Needed) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
g. Restraining a Large Dog for Jugular Venipuncture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Related Resources:
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 11: General Handling Principles. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs &
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 12: Restraint for Standard Positions in Dogs. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 13: Canine Restraint for Procedures. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs
& Cats (book and DVD), 273-298. Davis, CA: CattleDog Publishing. 105

1. When restraining dogs, what are the 6 directions you need to control?
2. When working with an anxious or fearful dog, which direction should you face when performing an examination?
3. Holding the dog’s collar allows you to control the front half of the body in which 5 directions?
4. If you are kneeling next to a dog or standing next to a dog, then holding the collar can help prevent the dog from being able to get
close enough to bite your face. However, what must you do to make use of your collar hold to keep the dog far enough away?
5. When getting a large dog into position to restrain her in a sit or stand for examination, what are 2 mistakes people frequently make
that can cause the fearful or anxious dog to become aggressive?
6. In this workshop, 3 different head holds were used to restrain the head. Explain what the 3 holds are and why some provide more
control than others.
7. When restraining a large dog in a sit position, describe how you’d restrain her while you are down at the dog’s level so she remains in
position for a simple examination.
8. When restraining a large dog in a stand position, describe how you’d restrain her while you are down at the dog’s level so you can
control the front end in all 5 directions, as well as the back end laterally and downward (preventing sitting).
106
9. If the dog starts to change positions, how quickly should you adjust your hold so that you can control the dog?
10. What methods can you use to gain better control of the head without pulling the dog close to you?
11. Describe 3 methods of restraint for drawing blood from a dog.
12. What are 3 methods for getting a dog from standing to sitting?
13. When positioning a dog from standing to lateral, what are 3 mistakes people commonly make with the front end?
14. When positioning a dog from standing to lateral, if the dog’s foot gets stuck on the floor, making it difficult to position him, what
are you likely to have done incorrectly?
15. What are 3 common mistakes made when placing a leash muzzle on a dog?
16. Why would you use a leash muzzle instead of putting a commercial muzzle on a dog?
17. If you are restraining a dog in a sit on the ground, and the dog is able to get up unexpectedly, what 3 mistakes might you have made?
107

PRACTICE EXERCISES
These activities will give you practice using low stress handling techniques when handling, moving and restraining dogs in
stressful environments.
Exercise 1: Practice properly getting into position to restrain a large dog in a stand on the floor.
QUESTION ANSWER
Is the leash loose while you’re walking the dog?
Did you stop the dog with appropriate body language and
leash technique? (Refer to Lab 1 activities.)
Did you switch hands to hold the leash short or to hold the
collar once the dog was stationary? And did you keep your
body upright (bend the knees rather than leaning over the
dog) while you did this?
When kneeling on one knee to get to the dog’s level, did

you continue facing your body forward and keeping your
body upright to avoid leaning over the dog? Did you control
movement of his head and neck laterally by keeping your leash
hand stationary and close to his neck?
Were you able to place an arm under his abdomen without

dragging the dog?
108
Exercise 2: Practice properly getting into position to restrain a large dog in a sit on the floor.
QUESTION ANSWER
Is the leash loose while you’re walking the dog?
Did you stop the dog with appropriate body language and
leash technique? (Refer to Lab 1.)
Did you switch hands to hold the leash short or to hold the
collar once the dog was stationary? And did you keep your
body upright (bend the knees rather than leaning over the
dog) while you did this?
Did you wait until you had the dog stationary before you
started guiding it to sit?
Did you properly guide the front end upwards and back while
placing gentle pressure on the base of the tail (2-3 pounds of
pressure) rather than pressing more cranially (e.g., on the wing
of the ilium)? Were you able to remain upright while doing this
or did you lean over the dog?
Once the dog was sitting, did you get down to the dog’s level by
kneeling with one knee and facing your body forward?
Could you prevent the dog from moving by gently placing a

hand over the back and on the opposite hip?
109
Exercise 3: Practice the 3 arm holds for controlling the head and front end, and the collar hold. Have someone practice luring the dog
out of place. Compare the control you get with each hold and discuss when each hold would be appropriate. to restrain a large dog in a
sit on the floor.
HOLD When would you use this hold?

Collar hold
Arm around the neck
Arm around the neck with hand facing outwards
Arm around the neck with hand facing outwards and resting
on the back of your head
Were you able to place an arm under the dog’s abdomen

without dragging him?
Once the dog was sitting, did you get down to the dog’s level by
kneeling with one knee and facing your body forward?
110
Exercise 4: How you get into a position to restrain a dog is as important as performing the restraint. Practice getting into position to
restrain a large dog for a sitting jugular venipuncture where the dog’s rear is against a wall and you are standing behind the dog’s head
QUESTION ANSWER
Were you able to lead the dog into position so that his rear end
is near a wall or other vertical surface?
Did you wait until he’s stationary before physically positioning

him into a sit? (Note: If he will sit on verbal cue you do not
need to physically position him).
Were you holding the leash short enough to keep him

stationary as you get into position behind him?
Were you careful to keep your body vertical instead of leaning

over the dog as you position yourself behind him and even
when you are in position?
Did you carefully step around or over his rear end as you
position yourself behind him and facing forward such that you
end up with one foot on each side of him?
Once you were in position, were you able to contour your

legs so they formed a mold along his side and behind his
shoulders?
Were you able to hook your fourth and fifth fingers under his
collar on each side of his head while placing your other fingers
under his mandible? And did you do this in a way so that he
remained relaxed?
111

GOLD CERTIFICATION RUBRICS

Practicing Minimal Restraint
The handler is successfully positioned next to the dog and comfortably restricts the dog’s movement using
minimal surface contact.
A. Handler stands while restraining a standing dog
B. Handler kneels while restraining a standing dog
C. Handler kneels while restraining a sitting dog
A B C
1. Handler position 1: Handler positions himself directly next to dog (on either side),
placing a leg parallel to the dog and facing the same direction as
dog.
0: Handler positions himself at an angle to the dog or points feet
and shoulders towards the dog.
2. Change from 1: When transitioning between standing and kneeling, handler

standing moves body up/down by keeping the back straight and bending
to kneeling only the knees.
(if necessary) 0: Handler leans over dog, hunches over or uses jerky movements
3. Leash restraint 1: Handler holds the leash short or by the collar. If necessary,
handler hooks a finger over the collar.
0: Handler fails to slide hand down the leash to hold the leash so
it’s short or to hold the collar.
4. Prevent lateral 1: After the dog is stationary, handler places a hand either against
movement the dog’s ilium to hold him laterally against his leg or under the
caudoventral abdomen.
0: Handler places hand on the dog before the dog is stationary or
places hand too cranially or caudally.
5. Change positions 1: If the dog changes position (i.e., from sitting to standing),
handler responds by changing appropriate hand positions within
0.5 seconds.
0: Handler takes longer than 0.5 seconds to change hand positions
or does not change hand positions.
Passing Score:
112 (100%) or 5/5
Moving Dog From Stand to Sit

The handler uses the following 3 techniques to move the dog from standing to sitting:
A. Use verbal cue, “Sit”

B. Use a treat lure
C. Apply pressure at the base of the tail
A B C
1. Handler position 1: After coming to a full stop, handler stands parallel and directly
next to dog, facing the same direction.
0: Handler stands away from or faces the dog at an angle,
allowing too much lateral movement.
2. Verbal cue 1: Handler gives one verbal cue, “Sit,” in a clearly audible and N/A N/A
upbeat tone (a second cue can be attempted after 5 seconds).
0: Handler repeats the verbal cue 1 or more times in rapid
succession, or speaks too softly or harshly.
3. Food lure 1: Handler places the lure above dog’s nose and guides it N/A N/A
caudodorsally and, if feeding, only rewards once dog’s bottom
touches the ground.
0: Handler lures the dog up or forwards instead of caudodorsally
or feeds lure to dog before bottom touches the ground.
4. Pressure 1: While holding the collar and lifting it slightly up and caudally, N/A N/A
placements handler simultaneously places light pressure (< 2 pounds) just
cranial to the base of the tail.
0: Handler places pressure too far cranially to base of tail or gives
dog too much slack on the leash.
5. Hand placement 1: To keep the dog sitting, handler places a hand at base of the
on rump dog’s tail.
0: Handler places hand elsewhere on the dog or does not use
other hand at all.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 3/3
113
Moving Dog From Standing to Lateral Position (Front End Handler)

The handler moves the dog from standing to lateral position by successfully maneuvering the front end. Rubric is
based on the dog facing the handlers’ left.
SCORE
1. Arm around the 1: Depending on size of dog and handler, handler uses an appropriate arm hold
neck with either with shoulder and hand caudal to the dog’s skull and keeps the dog’s spine
(1) hand on neck, straight.
(2) palm turned 0: Handler does not perform a proper arm hold due to improper positioning or
outwards behind posture, or doesn’t keep dog’s spine straight.
skull, or (3) like
(2) but with hand
behind the head.
2. Back is straight if 1: Handler’s back is straight and vertical to the dog so that there is no gap between
dog is on a table. the dog and the person.
0: Handler leans over the dog and there’s a big gap between the dog’s side and
the person.
3. Front left leg hold 1: Handler uses a straight right arm to hold dog’s inner leg, keeping it straight.
0: Handler allows dog’s inner leg to bend, allowing excessive movement.
4. Lift and slide dog’s 1: Handler lifts dog’s body vertically, rotates the legs outwards, and gently slides
body the dog down against handler’s abdomen and thighs (or lowers the dog like
an elevator).
0: Handler holds dog’s body away from own body, fails to lift the dog, fails to
rotate the legs outwards, fails to slide the dog down or dog lands with an
audible thud.
5. Left elbow 1: As the dog slides to floor, handler pushes his shoulder over the dog’s neck and
rotation simultaneously directs his left elbow backwards.
0: Handler fails to push shoulder forward enough or he keeps his elbow facing
straight down.
6. Shoulder pressure 1: While putting dog onto his side and once dog’s head is on the ground, handler
keeps pressure on dog’s neck with his left shoulder.
0: Handler fails to rotate shoulder over the dog’s neck, and the dog is able to raise
his head.
7. Left arm final 1: After dog is settled and stationary in lateral position, handler quickly and
position smoothly slides his left forearm over the dog’s neck.
0: Handler does not place left arm into final position on dog’s neck.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 7/7
114
Moving Dog From Standing to Lateral Position (Rear End Handler)

The handler moves the dog from standing to lateral position by successfully maneuvering the dog’s rear end.
(This example assumes the dog is facing left.)
SCORE
1. Left rear leg hold 1: Using a straight left arm (if dog is facing left) with thumb down, handler
holds dog’s inside leg just distal to the hock.
0: Handler bends his arm, has thumb up or holds the dog’s leg anywhere
besides just below the hock.
2. Right rear leg hold 1: Using a straight right arm with palm up and thumb down, handler holds
dog’s right leg just below the hock.
0: Handler bends his arm, or holds leg with palm down or above the hock.
3. Lift and slide dog’s 1: Handler lifts dog’s body vertically, rotates and then gently slides dog down
body against handler’s abdomen and thighs.
0: Handler holds dog’s body away from own body, fails to rotate or fails to s
slide the dog down, or dog lands with an audible thud.
4.Timing of rotation 1: Handler lifts and rotates rear end at the same time and speed as the front
end handler moves the front end of the dog.
0: Handler improperly times the position change such that the dog’s front and
rear end do not move in sync or he rotates dog’s body too much.
5. Left arm final 1: Handler keeps gentle constant pressure by laying left forearm on dog’s
placement abdomen.
0: Handler lifts forearm away from dog or applies too much weight.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 5/5
Placing a Leash Muzzle

The handler wraps the dog’s leash around the muzzle as a rapid form of head restraint and/or an intermediary to
a traditional muzzle.
SCORE
1. Collar placement 1: The collar is held right up against the base of dog’s ears.
0: The collar sits too far caudally to the base of dog’s ears, causing excess slack
in leash.
2. Leash tightness 1: Handler lays a taut leash flat down the dog’s forehead between the dog’s eyes
and placement prior to placing the leash muzzle.
0: Handler allows slack in leash, allowing for a loose muzzle.
115
3. Hand placements 1: Hands are kept beside and not directly in front of dog’s mouth.
0: Handler holds hand directly in front of dog’s mouth and/or in bite range.
4. Handler posture 1: Handler stands or kneels with back straight and only bends knees to get
down to dog’s level.
0: Handler leans over or hunches over dog.
5. Final leash 1: Handler grabs the excess leash and collar all in one hand to ensure the
handling properly fitted leash muzzle does not slip off.
0: Handler holds collar and excess leash in separate hands, allowing leash
muzzle to slip off if dog struggles.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 5/5
Restraining for Standing Lateral Saphenous Venipuncture (2 Handlers Needed)

Handler 1 successfully positions the dog between himself and a wall and comfortably restricts the dog’s movement.
Handler 2 prevents the dog from sitting and holds off the vein for a third person to then draw the blood.
SCORE
1. Handler 1 position 1: Handler positions himself directly next to dog (on either side) with the dog
between handler and a wall, placing a leg(s) gently against dog’s side,
keeping his head away from dog’s face.
0: Handler positions himself at an angle to the dog, places the dog at an angle
to the wall, doesn’t have contact between handler’s legs and the dog, puts
too much pressure against dog’s side, or has head close to dog’s face.
2. Leash control 1: Handler holds the leash short. If necessary and appropriate, handler hooks a
(Handler 1) finger over the collar.
0: Handler fails to slide hand down the leash to hold the collar and/or leaves
too much slack leash.
3. Back leg hand 1: When dog is stationary against wall and handler positioned correctly,
placement if dog handler uses one hand to make contact with the dog and smoothly slide
is likely to try to hand down to place on cranial aspect of femur to prevent dog from sitting.
sit. (Handler 2) 0: Handler doesn’t wait until dog is stationary to attempt the hold or attempts
to hold too firmly when the dog wants to sit, causing the dog to struggle.
4. Back end vein 1: When dog is stationary against wall and Handler 1 is positioned correctly,
occlusion Handler 2 uses one hand to make contact with the dog and smoothly slides
(Handler 2) hand down to hold off the vein for venipuncture.
0: Handler doesn’t wait until dog is stationary to attempt to hold off the vein;
moves while attempting, allowing the dog to struggle; or grabs the dog’s leg
without first making contact.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 4/4
116
Restraining a Large Dog for Jugular Venipuncture

The dog sits with his rear end against a wall, and the handler stands behind the dog.
SCORE
1. Handler position 1: Handler positions himself next to the dog (on either side) and waits for the
dog to become stationary with the dog’s back end towards a wall
(alternatively with a foot, instead of a wall, behind dog to prevent
backwards movement).
0: Handler positions himself in front of, behind or at an angle to the dog and/
or doesn’t get the dog stationary with back end towards a wall (or foot).
2. Positioning the 1: Handler steps around the dog with dog’s rear end against a wall (or foot)
dog and the handler’s legs against the dog’s sides behind the shoulders.
0: Handler steps or bends over dog, has dog positioned too far away from the
wall or doesn’t keep legs in contact with the dog’s sides.
3. Head restraint 1: Handler uses one or both hands and/or arms to hold the dog’s head with the
nose outwards and slightly upwards, keeping elbows in and arms parallel to
the dog to expose the venipuncture site.
0: Handler does not position dog’s nose outwards and upwards, and/or has
elbows out, lacking arm contact with the dog.
4. Handler’s hand 1: Handler places index fingers flat (not digging in) in the intermandibular
position space and thumbs on top of the dog’s muzzle and/or holds the collar up to
expose the venipuncture site.
0: Handler places fingers in bite range, leaves collar blocking the venipuncture
site and/or digs fingers into the dog’s neck or face.
5. Handler posture 1: Handler stands with back straight and only bends knees to get down to
dog’s level.
0: Handler leans over or hunches over dog.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 5/5
117
118
CHAPTER 9
Chapter 9: Canine Lab: Handling and Restraining Small and

Medium-Sized Dogs with Skill and Ease
From Handling, Moving, and Restraining Dogs in Stressful Environments, Pt 1: A
Workshop on Essential Exercises with Special Techniques for Small and Medium-sized Dogs
Summary: People tend to restrain small and medium-sized dogs with force due to their size, which causes them to struggle
defensively. The result: Procedures take longer and patients become more difficult with each visit. In this lab, you’ll learn a variety of
holds and be able to identify the directions of movement they control. This will allow you to adapt quickly to the situation and to the
dog’s response. Patients who otherwise would be difficult to handle will now be calm and cooperative.
Course Objectives:
1. Learn 5 methods for controlling the rear end and 7 methods for controlling movement of the front end. Determine which
directions (front, back, right, left, up or down) each hold controls, and practice adapting to the dog’s movement by switching
between holds.
2. Discover how to safely pick up small dogs who are friendly but wiggly, as well as those who are aggressive.
3. Evaluate which restraint hold is best for a given dog and procedure. Know how to determine, based on the dog’s body language
and behavior, when to choose something else.
INDEX:
a. Picking Up Small Dogs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
b. Small Dog Restraint Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
c. Position Changes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Related Resources:
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 11: General Handling Principles. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs &
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 12: Restraint for Standard Positions in Dogs. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 13: Canine Restraint for Procedures. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs
119

From Handling, Moving, and Restraining Dogs in Stressful Environments, Pt 1: A
1. When carrying a small dog in one arm, describe 2 reasons why you should hold the dog’s body horizontal to the ground instead of
tilting the dog vertically.
2. When carrying a small dog in one arm, how can you prevent the dog from jumping upwards?
3. When lifting a small dog with one arm, how do you control the front end?
4. If you start to lift this dog and she is able to jump up, what have you done wrong? Why is it important to avoid getting into a situation
where the dog is able to jump up?
5. Which rear end holds provide the most surface area coverage?
6. Which rear end hold provides the most control, and which directions of movement does it control?
7. Which rear end hold(s) prevents the dog from sitting?
8. Does a minimal restraint hold (smaller surface area contact) mean that the hold controls movement in fewer directions than a larger
surface area contact hold? Give examples to back up your answer.
9. List and describe 7 holds for controlling the dog’s front end.
10. Which 3 front end holds control movement in the most directions?
120
11. Which of the 3 holds described above provides the most control?
12. Which of the 3 holds described above is most likely to cause a dog who is fearful of people to struggle?
13. Which one of these 3 holds is the most minimal?
14. Which of these 3 holds (or modifications of these holds) can be used to control the head for a jugular venipuncture?
15. Which of these 3 holds can be modified for better control of the head?
16. Which front end hold is primarily for preventing dogs from jumping up?
17. When switching from one rear end hold to another, describe 2 factors that are important.
18. Why is it important to practice switching quickly between different holds?
19. With the C hold, where should your shoulder be in relation to the dog?
20. List the 5 important elements of the C hold.
21. When would you use a C hold vs. a modified C hold?
22. When would you use a modified C hold vs. a ring hold or modified ring hold for jugular venipuncture?
23. If you know how to do the actual hold correctly, why might a dog still remain tense or struggle as you raise her head for a jugular
venipuncture? What steps do you need to take to get the dog into position correctly?
121
24. The client is carrying her nervous dog and puts her on the table so that you can restrain with a C hold while the dog is standing.
What is the proper way to get the dog into position and place the C hold?
25. When moving a dog from a stand to a sit using the rear end arm hold, describe the 3 things that you must do.
26. To prevent a dog from getting up right after you guided her into a sit, what should you do to control her?
27. When moving a dog from sitting to sternal, where should you hold the front legs, and how should you place them? What should
you avoid doing?
28. When a dog is lying down, what are 2 front end holds you can use to help prevent him from getting up?
29. When physically guiding a dog from sitting to lying sternally, you can use a C hold or just bend the legs and hold the collar.
Although this second technique is a minimal restraint hold, why might it provide better control and direction than a C hold in
this case?
122

From Handling, Moving, and Restraining Dogs in Stressful Environments, Part 1: A
PRACTICE EXERCISES
These activities will give you practice using Low Stress Handling in stressful environments with special techniques for small dogs.
Exercise 1: Practice the 5 rear end holds and the 7 front end holds and know which directions they control. Practice moving between
the holds quickly and smoothly. You should be able to name the holds quickly and the directions they control as well as the directions
they do not control.
Rear End Holds and Directions They Control Front End Holds and Directions They Control
1. 1.
2. 2.
3. 3.
4. 4.
5. 5.
6.
7.
Exercise 2: Practice using front and rear end holds in a wiggly dog who is motivated to move to get to treats. Have one person use treats
to lure the dog out of place. As the dog tries to move in different directions, respond by switching to the most appropriate hold.
Exercise 3: Practice using a front end towel wrap on a friendly, calm dog to control the front end. Practice twisting the towel in
different directions to see how it affects the security of the wrap. Also test rolling the towel vs. folding it prior to applying the wrap.
Have someone try to lure the dog out of place using treats. Discuss your experience.
123
Exercise 4: Practice positioning a friendly, wiggly dog from a stand to a sit. Answer the questions below.
QUESTION ANSWER
How did you control the front end so that the dog couldn't
move forward, jump or turn to lick/bite you?
What did you need to do to lower the rear end?
How did you shift the dog’s weight onto her back end and into
a sit?
124


Picking Up Small Dogs
Picking Up a Friendly Dog
SCORE
1. Control dog’s 1: Handler walks dog into position and stops dog by sliding hand down to shorten
movement the leash and hooking a finger in the collar once dog is stationary and handler is
at dog’s level.
0: Handler uses leash to drag dog closer, reaches hand-over-hand to shorten the
leash or fails to shorten the leash, and/or does not hook a finger in the collar.
2. Handler 1: Handler positions his body directly next to the dog by kneeling (as necessary) with
positioning back straight to get to dog’s level, parallel to the dog. Side should be facing the dog.
0: Handler leans his shoulders over the dog or attempts to drag the dog next to his
side, or fails to bring himself close to dog’s side, creating too much space.
3. Switch hand on 1: Prior to lifting the dog, handler switches hand on collar from the hand closest
collar to the dog to the hand farthest from dog.
0: Handler fails to switch hands or lets go of the dog while switching.
4. Proper hand 1: Handler has 1-2 fingers flat on dog’s chest with thumb lateral to 1 front leg and
placement under additional fingers on the other side of the chest.
the dog 0: Handler implements an incorrect hold other than the finger placement
described above, needs to shift fingers after placing them under the dog, or does
not provide lateral restraint allowing the dog’s rump to move outwardly.
5. Smoothly lift dog 1: Holding the dog close to his side, in one fluid motion handler smoothly lifts
dog to his side and then stands by keeping a straight back and lifting with his legs.
0: Handler leans forward as he rises, holds the dog far away from his side, or lifts
the dog slowly and precariously.
6. Correct hold 1: Handler ensures the dog’s back is horizontal and straight by using elbow and
positioning forearm to keep the dog’s side close to handler’s side and, if necessary, maintains
collar hold to prevent dog’s upward movement.
0: Handler holds the dog vertically or fails to support dog’s rear end with arm
and elbow.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 6/6
125
Picking Up a Fearful or Aggressive Dog (Using the Leash to Control the Front End)
SCORE
1. Handler approach 1: Handler approaches sideways or backwards.
0: Handler approaches head on or moves hesitantly into position.
2. Handler 1: Handler positions his body directly next to but slightly ahead of the dog by
positioning kneeling (as necessary) with back straight to get to dog’s level. Handler can also
be farther ahead of the dog. If so, he should have back or side to the dog.
0: Handler leans over the dog, attempts to drag the dog next to his side, or is even
with the dog instead of slightly ahead.
3. Leash length 1: Leash is long enough so hand will not be in bite range and short enough so that
handler can guide the dog forward into position to be picked up.
0: Leash is too long to easily guide the dog forward or too short and hand is in
bite range.
4. Leash tension 1: Handler maintains forward and slight upward leash tension while picking up
the dog and changes to forward and slight downward leash tension once dog is
picked up.
0: Handler fails to maintain leash tension in the appropriate direction or does so
in a way that his hand is within bite range.
5. Proper hand 1: When lifting the dog, handler places 2 fingers flat on dog’s chest and thumb on
placement one side of the dog with other fingers on other side of chest.
0: Handler implements a hold other than described above when lifting the dog,
needs to shift fingers after placing them under the dog, or does not provide
lateral restraint allowing the dog’s rump to move outwardly.
6. Smoothly lift dog 1: Holding the dog close to his side, handler quickly lifts dog in one fluid motion
by keeping his back straight and lifting with his legs.
0: Handler leans forward as he rises, fails to keep the dog by his side, and/or lifts
the dog slowly and precariously.
leash tension once dog is in hold.
and elbow.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 7/7
126
Picking Up a Fearful or Aggressive Dog (Towel Restraint) – One Person

SCORE
1. Handler approach 1: Handler approaches sideways or backwards.
0: Handler approaches head on or moves hesitantly into position.
2. Control dog’s 1: Handler walks the dog into position and shortens the leash by letting excess
movement leash fall to the ground and stepping on the excess leash with his foot to restrict
dog’s movement. Handler then places towel restraint on dog.
0: Handler uses leash to drag dog closer, fails to shorten the leash or leans over to
step on it.
3. Handler 1: Handler carefully positions his body directly next to dog by kneeling (as
positioning necessary) with back straight to get to dog’s level, parallel to the dog.
0: Handler leans his shoulders over the dog or attempts to drag the dog next to his
side, or fails to bring himself close to dog’s side, creating too much space.
4. Towel placement 1: Handler uses an appropriately sized towel and lays it flat against dog’s neck,
(assistant) quickly and snugly twisting it to create sufficient bulk. Handler avoids placing
hands in front of dog’s face and keeps back straight to avoid leaning over the dog.
0: Handler uses a towel that is too small to control neck or too large to get around
just the neck, keeps towel loose, allows hands to linger near dog’s mouth and/or
leans over the dog.
5. Proper hand 1: When lifting the dog, handler places 2 fingers flat on dog’s chest and thumb
placement hooked behind dog’s elbow, with arm and elbow close to dog’s side.
0: Handler implements a hold other than described above when lifting the dog,
needs to shift fingers after placing them under the dog or does not provide
lateral restraint allowing the dog’s rump to move outwardly.
6. Smoothly lift dog 1: Holding the dog closely to his side, handler quickly lifts dog up in one fluid
motion by keeping his back straight and lifting with his legs.
0: Handler leans forward as he rises, fails to keep the dog by his side or lifts the
dog slowly and precariously.
towel restraint to control the dog’s head.
and elbow.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 7/7
127
Transferring a Dog From One Handler to Another

SCORE
1. Handler approach Rubric to be updated
Passing Score:
(100%) or ??
Small Dog Restraint Techniques

When practicing the front and rear end restraint techniques, the goal is to support the dog in as many directions of movement as possible. As
such, the dog should be positioned directly against the handler’s body to provide lateral control towards the handler. Use a friendly dog who is
comfortable being in this position to practice these holds. Recognize that not all dogs are comfortable having this much surface area contact
with the handler, and some dogs don’t need as much contact. Be prepared to adjust your technique to the comfort level of the individual dog.
Rear End Restraint Techniques

There are 5 distinct techniques to restrain a dog’s rear end, ranging from less surface area contact (minimal restraint) to
more contact area. Use a collar hold in the front during testing.
SCORE
1. Hand behind 1: With handler’s palm facing the dog and fingers flat, he contours hand to
the rear animal’s rear with thumb up.
0: Handler digs fingers into animal or splays fingers, creating a weak contour.
Score per exercise:

1: Prior to attempting restraint, handler positions animal’s side directly against
handler’s abdomen or chest using minimal restraint.
0: Handler attempts to restrain animal prior to correct positioning of the animal.
1: Handler lowers his body downwards by bending only the knees and places
upper arm slightly below dog’s tail.
0: Handler fails to bend down and arm hold is too dorsal.
2. Arm behind
the rear 1: Handler contours to the dog such that the dog’s rear end has maximal surface
area contact with his upper arm.
0: There is space between the handler’s arm and the dog’s rear end.
1: Handler prevents lateral movement with forearm against dog’s side horizontal
to the table with hand flat along the dog’s side
0: Handler tilts arm up/down such that there is less surface area contact and
lateral support.
Score per exercise:
128

handler’s body using minimal restraint.
1: Handler lays upper arm over the dog’s back at the hip, using crook of the elbow
and forearm to hold dog close to handler and prevent lateral movement.
3. Arm over the
0: Handler fails to allow the dog’s rear/back to slide underneath his arm, squishing
back/rear
the dog’s tail, or lifts his elbow or forearm away from the dog’s body.
1: Handler places his hand flat with fingers in dog’s axilla and thumb on the lateral
aspect of the humerus.
0: Handler fails to place fingers in the dog’s axilla and is unable to prevent
backwards movement.
Score per exercise:

1: With palm facing up and fingers flat and together, handler cups the dog’s belly.
0: Handler curls fingers and digs fingers into dog, has hand in a “U” shape (with
thumb away from other fingers), or leaves too much space by failing to keep
4. Hand under elbows/upper arms close to his body.
the belly
1: Handler keeps elbow tucked in close to his body.
0: Handler’s elbow sticks out to the side such that the hand under the belly does
not lie perpendicular to the dog or creates unnecessary space.
Score per exercise:

1: Handler begins with an appropriately sized towel folded and lying on the exam
table.
0: Handler chooses an inappropriately sized towel, fails to prepare the towel or
rolls the towel instead of folding it.
1: Handler reaches over or behind the dog’s rear to bring both ends of the towel to
his side.
5. Towel around
0: Handler tosses the towel over the dog or brings the ends of the towel together on
the belly
the far side of the dog.
1: Handler quickly and snugly twists the towel towards the dog’s rear to create
sufficient bulk.
0: Handler twists the towel towards the dog’s head and is thus unable to rotate the
towel enough to make the towel snug, keeps towel loose or makes too little/too
much bulk.
Score per exercise:

Passing Score:
(100%) or 13/13
129
Front End Restraint Techniques

There are 7 distinct techniques to restrain a dog’s front end, ranging from less surface area contact (minimal restraint)
to more contact area. For this testing, the dogs should be positioned against the handler for maximal control. Use the
arm over the back/rear hold in the back during testing.
SCORE
1. U-hold 1: With handler’s palm facing the dog and fingers flat, he contours hand to
animal’s rear with thumb up.
0: Handler digs fingers into animal or splays fingers, creating a weak contour.
Score per exercise:

1: Handler lowers his body downwards by bending only the knees and places
upper arm slightly below dog’s tail.
0: Handler fails to bend down and arm hold is too dorsal.
2. Arm hold
1: Handler contours to the dog such that the dog’s rear end has maximal surface
area contact with his upper arm.
0: There is space between the handler’s arm and the dog’s rear end.
1: Handler prevents lateral movement with forearm against dog’s side horizontal
to the table with hand flat along the dog’s side
0: Handler tilts arm up/down such that there is less surface area contact and
lateral support.
Score per exercise:

1: Handler hooks one finger over the collar.
0: Handler hooks too much of the finger (entire finger) in the collar making it
unsafe due to inability to easily remove the finger from the collar.
3. Collar hold
1: To keep dog stationary, handler appropriately applies pressure opposite the
dog’s desired movement only as needed.
0: Handler places pressure but in the wrong direction to control movement.
Score per exercise:
130
1: Handler makes an “O” shape by touching thumb-to-thumb and index finger-

to-index finger. Handler lays palms flat against base of dog’s neck and contours
fingers against the dog’s scapula and chest, with thumbs preventing upward
movement at the shoulders.
0: Handler places the hold too far up the dog’s neck, potentially causing
asphyxiation, or doesn’t lay arms lightly against dog to prevent lateral movement.
4. Ring hold
1: If the dog is facing away from the handler, both of the handler’s forearms should
be parallel to and touching the dog’s sides. If the dog’s side is against the
handler’s body, only the handler’s outside forearm will be against the dog.
0: Handler fails to keep appropriate arms against the dog’s side and parallel to the
dog’s body.
Score per exercise:

5. Proximal leg hold* 0: Handler attempts to restrain animal prior to correct positioning of the animal.
*requires concurrent
1: Making a ring shape with index finger and thumb, handler grasps dog’s front
use of another
leg above the dog’s elbow and is able to prevent upwards movement.
front hold
0: Handler fails to make a ring at the appropriate location on the dog’s leg.
1: Handler uses another front end hold for additional restraint (e.g., collar hold).
0: Handler fails to use additional hold to prevent excess movement.
Score per exercise:

1: Handler starts by lowering himself to the dog’s level.

0: Handler fails to lower himself to the dog’s level.
1: Handler smoothly switches from another front end hold (e.g., collar hold) to
form a “C” shape with thumb and four curled fingers.
0: Handler reaches for the dog or removes hands from the dog between holds
6. C-hold and modified
such that the dog is not restrained for an instant and could struggle or get loose.
C-hold.
1: Handler rotates hand around neck while rotating shoulder forwards to meet
fingers such that the dog’s head/neck don’t need to move.
0: Handler fails to rotate shoulder forward such that the dog is pulled against
the handler’s shoulder or leans over the dog instead of pushing the shoulder
forward.
1: Handler forms hold with the fingers directly behind the dog’s skull. (Modified
C-hold: Index finger in front of ear. Other fingers caudal to ears.)
0: Handler’s fingers are placed too low on the dog’s neck, leading to a less secure hold.
Score per exercise:

131

1: Handler begins with an appropriately sized towel folded and lying on the exam
table in front of the dog.
0: Handler chooses an inappropriately sized towel, fails to prepare the towel or
rolls the towel instead of folding it.
7. Towel around
the neck 1: Handler reaches from behind the dog to pull the towel under the dog’s chin and
gather the two sides together.
0: Handler reaches in front of the dog’s face to gather both sides of the towel.
1: Handler quickly and snugly twists the towel towards the dog’s rear (clockwise if
the dog is facing to the handler’s left) to create sufficient bulk.
0: Handler twists the towel towards the dog’s head and is thus unable to rotate the
towel enough to make the towel snug, keeps towel loose or makes too little/too
much bulk.
Score per exercise:

Passing Score:
(100%) or 7/7
132
Transitioning Between Holds (Front and Rear)

The handler must be able to quickly adjust holds when dog is moving (or being lured for practice) in different directions.
SCORE
1. Keeping contact 1: Handler quickly switches between 2 holds and keeps the moving hand in
contact with the dog.
0: Handler removes hand from the dog and replaces it in the new hold such that
his hand hovers over (and potentially startles) the dog between holds.
2. Modifying hold 1: Handler chooses or switches to an appropriate hold for preventing movement
appropriately in the direction the dog is trying to go. In the collar hold, handler slides the
hand on the collar to counter the direction the dog is moving.
0: Handler fails to switch to an appropriate hold or is unable to adjust the collar
hold to prevent movement in the direction the dog is going.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 2/2
Position Changes
Positioning From Stand to Sit Using Physical Guidance

The handler moves the dog from standing to sitting by smoothly “folding” the dog into a sitting position.
SCORE
1. Front end 1: Depending on size of dog, handler places the crook of his arm or a flat hand
handling against the dog’s chest.
0: Handler leaves too much space between crook of arm and dog, or handler fails
to hold animal with sufficient surface area contact to ensure proper support.
2. Rear end handling 1: Handler places a hand on caudal aspect of dog’s knees, laying fingers flat on
dog’s thigh and palms facing skywards.
0: Handler grips dog’s thighs too far above or below the knee or blocks bending of
the knee.
3. Shoulder rotation 1: Handler lifts dog’s front end up and caudally by leaning towards the back end
while tilting one shoulder down so that his shoulders are at the angle that the
dog’s back should be, distributing the dog’s weight over the rump.
0: Handler fails to tilt shoulders or move dog’s weight caudally.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 3/3
133
Positioning From Sit to Down Using Physical Guidance

Aside from verbally cuing or using food to lure a dog into a down, the handler uses correct physical manipula-
tion to move the dog from sitting to lying down by either (A) using both arms to guide the dog’s front end down
or (B) using a C-hold with one arm and physically guiding the front end with the other arm.
SCORE
1. Correct placement 1: Handler grasps dog’s front legs above the carpi but below the elbows. With one-
of front leg grasp handed grasp, handler holds palms up and keeps legs separated by holding one
or more fingers between the legs; with two-handed grasp, palms face medially.
0: Handler holds the legs too close to the elbows or too close to the wrists; in one-
handed grasp handler fails to keep legs separated.
2. Bend front legs 1: Handler bends the front legs at a 90° angle and then lowers the front end to
the table.
0: Handler pulls legs out forwards or jerks the legs upwards into less than
90° angle.
3. Prevent upward 1: Handler holds the dog’s collar to prevent movement upwards or uses a C-hold.
movement of the For medium-sized dogs, he may use an arm hold around the neck and lean over
shoulders the withers.
0: Handler uses inappropriate head hold.
4. C-hold See “Front End Restraint Techniques”
Passing Score:
(100%) or 4/4
134
Positioning From Standing to Lateral Using Physical Guidance (Front End Handler)
The handler moves the dog from standing to lateral position by successfully maneuvering the dog’s front end.
SCORE
1. Arm around the 1: Depending on size of dog and handler, handler uses an appropriate arm hold
neck with hand with shoulder caudal to the dog’s skull, touching left fingers to his shoulder at
either (1) the correct height for the dog and keeping the dog’s spine straight.
on neck, (2) 0: Handler does not perform a proper C- or U-hold due to improper positioning
having palm or posture, or doesn’t keep dog’s spine straight.
turned outwards
behind skull,
or (3) like (2) but
with hand behind
the head, or (4) in
a C-hold
2. Back is straight if 1: Handler’s back is straight and vertical to the dog so that there is no gap between
dog is on a table. the dog and the person.
0: Handler leans over the dog and there’s a big gap between the dog’s side and the
person.
3. Front left leg hold 1: Handler uses inside arm held straight to hold dog’s inner leg above the carpus
with thumb facing downwards and palm facing outwards.
0: Handler allows dog’s inner leg to bend or holds leg with wrist bent at an
awkward angle, allowing excessive movement.
4. Lift, rotate and 1: Handler lifts dog’s body vertically and rotates the dog’s body outwardly such
slide dog’s body that it gently slides down against handler’s abdomen (lowers the dog like an
elevator).
0: Handler holds dog’s body away from own body, fails to slide the dog down his
abdomen, or dog lands with an audible thud.
5. Left elbow 1: As the dog slides down, handler rotates at his shoulder to bring his left elbow
rotation backwards.
0: Handler fails to rotate at the shoulder to bring his left elbow back such that it
gets stuck on the table.
6. Shoulder pressure 1: While putting dog onto side and once dog’s head is on the table, handler keeps
pressure on dog’s neck with his left shoulder (if the dog is facing to the handler’s left).
0: Handler fails to rotate shoulder over the dog and allows the dog to struggle or
get up.
7. Left arm final 1: After dog is settled and stationary in lateral position, handler quickly and
position smoothly slides his left forearm over the dog’s neck to replace the shoulder pressure.
0: Handler does not place left arm into final position on dog’s neck.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 7/7 135
Positioning From Standing to Lateral Using Physical Guidance (Rear End Handler)
The handler moves the dog from standing to lateral position by successfully maneuvering the dog’s rear end.
SCORE
1. Inner rear leg hold 1: Using a straight left arm with thumbs down, handler holds dog’s inside leg just
below the hock.
0: Handler bends his arm, has thumbs up or holds the dog’s leg anywhere besides
just below the hock.
2. Outer rear leg 1: Using a straight right arm with palm up and thumb down, handler holds dog’s
hold right leg just below the hock.
0: Handler bends his arm, holds leg with palm down or holds above the hock.
3. Lift and slide dog’s 1: Handler lifts dog’s body vertically and rotates and then gently slides it down
body against handler’s abdomen and thighs.
0: Handler holds dog’s body away from own body, fails to rotate or fails to slide the
dog down, or dog lands with an audible thud.
4. Left arm final 1: Handler keeps gentle constant pressure by laying left forearm along dog’s a
placement abdomen.
0: Handler lifts forearm away from dog or applies too much weight.
5. Timing 1: Handler lifts and rotates rear end at the same time and speed that the front end
handler moves the front end of the dog.
0: Handler improperly times the position change such that the dog’s front and rear
ends do not move in sync.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 4/4
136
CHAPTER 10
Chapter 10: Canine Lab: Desensitization and Counterconditioning:

Teaching Dogs to Willingly Accept Medical Procedures
Summary: Many dogs dislike or are fearful of various types of handling for procedures such as toenail trims, injections and
venipuncture. While it may seem faster to use force-restraint, this type of handling frequently makes the patients worse and takes more
time. Techniques for training dogs to enjoy procedures are straightforward, but there are important nuances. In this lab, you’ll learn the
detailed steps that will lead to quick and efficient success. Your patients will now be happy and your clients will be too.
Course Objectives:
1. Learn how to train a dog to enjoy toenail trims, injections, muzzles or head collars, and almost any procedure that he
previously disliked.
2. Discover how subtle differences in timing, treat placement, choice of motivator, food delivery technique and the ability to define
appropriate criteria can make vast differences in the effectiveness and efficiency of your training.
3. Learn how to increase the likelihood that a dog is motivated for the food that you are using. Discover how you can desensitize
and counterconditioning using motivators other than food.
4. Recognize when you’re performing the techniques correctly, how to avoid common mistakes and when to make modifications.
INDEX
a. Treat Choice and Placement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
b. Desensitize and Countercondition to Muzzle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146
c. Desensitize and Countercondition to Gentle Leader . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
d. Desensitize and Countercondition to Handling or Restraint – Classical Counterconditioning . . . . . . . . . . . 148
e. Injections and Toenail Trim – Classical/Operant Counterconditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Related Resources:
Yin, Sophia. 2009. Chapter 18: Counterconditioning Protocols for Dogs and Cats. In Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior
137

1. Define classical counterconditioning.
2. Define desensitization.
3. Define operant counterconditioning.
4. Explain the difference between classical and operant counterconditioning, and provide an example using the situation of training a
kitten to enjoy receiving injections.
5. When using operant counterconditioning to train a dog to enjoy handling procedures, how can you make it clear to the dog that a
specific good behavior while being handled earns rewards? Answer and give an example.
6. With classical counterconditioning, what can be used aside from food for counterconditioning?
7. Why is food often used for counterconditioning even though other motivators exist?
8. Give 8 examples of foods that can be used to countercondition a dog.
9. Give 8 examples of foods that can be used to countercondition a cat.
10. Describe 4 different ways of dispensing/delivering the food.
11. Describe 2 factors that are important when delivering food during counterconditioning procedures so that the dog will remain
calm and in position.
138
12. Describe 3 factors important in choosing the type of treat.
13. When using a spreadable treat or canned food, describe 3-4 factors that are important.
14. How can you increase the likelihood that the dog will be motivated for the food you are using?
15. If your dog is a picky eater, what can you do to increase his food motivation during a desensitization and counterconditioning
session?
16. When using kibble or dry treats, how can you dispense the treats continuously?
17. When using a semi-moist treat, how can you dispense the treat continuously?
18. Why is it important to dispense the treat continuously when you first begin counterconditioning?
19. How do you know when you are delivering treats incorrectly or ineffectively, or when you need to modify your treat delivery or
change the treat you’re using? Provide at least 4 criteria.
20. If you are counterconditioning a dog, will you need to use treats to get a procedure done for the rest of the dog’s life? Explain why
or why not.
21. In this instructional program, desensitization and classical counterconditioning are often used early on, and desensitization and
operant counterconditioning are used in the later stages. Why? Does this mean that classical counterconditioning should always be
used first for handling procedures?
22. In Rapid Reversal of Fear and Aggression in Dogs and Cats and What Giraffes, Dogs, and Chickens Have in Common—Training
Techniques that Work for All Creatures, desensitization and operant counterconditioning are used to address situations such as a
dog who is fearful and aggressive to other dogs (http://drsophiayin.com/videos/entry/podees_aggressive_to_other_dogs). Why do
you think operant counterconditioning is used instead of classical?
139
23. Whether using classical or operant counterconditioning, what signs should you look for to determine whether to move on to the
next step or if you are even effective at the current step of training?
24. Explain how you would desensitize and countercondition a 15-pound dog who growls and snaps when being picked up to allow
and enjoy being picked up. In your answer, include (1) how you would determine where to start, (2) which treats you want to use
and how to dispense them, (3) how to determine whether you’re having the effect you want, (4) how to determine how long to stay
on one step, (5) when to move to operant counterconditioning, (6) what your end goal is, and (7) safety procedures so you can keep
from getting bitten.
25. When desensitizing and counterconditioning a dog who has a history of growling, snapping or biting in a particular handling
situation, describe 2 methods for performing the behavior modification in a safe way.
26. Describe 5 or more common mistakes people make when desensitizing and counterconditioning a dog to a muzzle or Gentle
Leader head collar.
27. When training dogs to enjoy wearing a head collar or muzzle, why and with which dogs do we switch to operant
counterconditioning at the end?
28. Describe 3 different ways to desensitize and countercondition a dog to willingly accept jugular venipuncture.
29. What is the definition of classical conditioning? (See lecture 4 or the glossary). What is the definition of classical
counterconditioning? (Refer to the glossary so that you can ensure you get this answer right).
140
30. What is the different between classical counterconditioning and operant counterconditioning?
31. If you are using classical counterconditioning to train a cat to enjoy a procedure such as being restrained on her side, do you need to
present food prior to starting to adding the aversive stimulus in order for the procedure to be considered classical counterconditioning?
Please explain why or why not.
141

PRACTICE EXERCISES
These activities will give you practice using desensitization and counterconditioning techniques to teach dogs to enjoy common
medical procedures.
Exercise 1: Use counterconditioning and desensitization in a situation where a dog or cat is resistant to restraint to teach the pet to
enjoy being restrained (such as in a C-hold or arm under the belly). Discuss how this helped with the procedure/restraint and if the pet
appeared safe and comfortable.
Steps Describe
Describe your timing of the treat in relation to the handling.
Describe your placement of the treat needed to keep the

animal stationary.

indicate that you are approaching or going over threshold?
142
Exercise 2: Come up with a counterconditioning and desensitization plan and train a dog to enjoy wearing a head collar or muzzle.
Steps Describe
Are you able to hold the head collar/muzzle with one hand?
Is the dog actively pushing his head into the head collar/
muzzle rather than you putting it on his face?
Describe your timing of the treat and head collar/muzzle

presentation.
Describe your placement of the treat.

indicate that you are approaching or going over threshold?
How did you decide when to switch from classical to operant

counterconditioning?
143
Exercise 3: BONUS EXERCISE—this one is challenging! Use operant counterconditioning to train an animal to hold his head
stationary for a jugular venipuncture.
Steps Describe
What behavior did you choose for the dog to perform?
Describe the steps you took to train this behavior.
Start the counterconditioning once the dog knows the

behavior. How did you decide the dog knows the behavior well
enough for you to begin counterconditioning?
When counterconditioning, what body language do you see

that tells you that you’re staying under threshold?
When counterconditioning, what body language or behavior

might you see that would indicate that you are approaching or
going over threshold?
When counterconditioning, how would you rate the animal’s

motivation for the food?
When counterconditioning, how did you decide when to go to

the next step?
How long did the entire counterconditioning process take?
144

Treat Choice and Placement

TREAT TYPE CRITERIA AND TECHNIQUE SCORE
1. Treat placement 1: Handler always places the treat in a position that keeps the dog’s head still for
procedures.
0: Handler moves the food around, causing the dog’s head to move out of position.
Handler places food far to the side of the tool (e.g., beside the head collar) or
too far in front of dog, causing dog to lean forward).
2. Appropriate treat 1: Handler holds enough treats to keep the animal occupied for at least 3 seconds
choice and chooses treats in which the animal will be interested.
0: Handler fails to prepare with enough treats to keep animal occupied for at least
3 seconds or chooses treats uninteresting to the animal, given the stimulus.
3. Kibble 1: Handler chooses kibble sizes that are appropriately sized for the dog (larger
pieces for larger dogs) and rolls them, piece-by-piece, from palm to index finger
and thumb.
0: Handler places multiple pieces of kibble into the dog’s mouth and fails to roll
kibble up, piece-by-piece, from palm.
4. Semi-moist food 1: Handler cuts semi-moist food into long thin sticks (like carrot sticks) and
squeezes out just enough for dog to nibble off the tips.
0: Handler allows dog to bite off large pieces.
5. Spreadable food 1: Handler chooses a tool with a large enough surface area that the dog cannot bite
a piece off and potentially swallow it. Handler spreads only a thin layer of the
food on the tool to keep the dog’s nose close to the tool.
0: Handler places large gobs of the spreadable food on the tool, allowing the dog
to lick off the food and pull his head away from the tool.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 5/5
145
Desensitize and Countercondition to Muzzle

SCORE
1. Handler 1: Before attempting the procedure, handler positions herself next to dog in non-
positioning threatening manner by facing sideways and bending only the knees to get to the
dog’s level (keeping back straight).
0: Handler leans over the animal or approaches the animal head-on.
2. Muzzle 1: Handler places the muzzle stationary at the dog’s mouth level, not pressed into
positioning her own body or pushed onto the dog.
0: Handler keeps moving the muzzle around, pushes the muzzle onto the dog or
holds the muzzle against or facing into her own body, causing the dog to push
his snout into the handler.
3. Introducing food 1: Handler places the treat in the center of the muzzle such that it is clearly visible
to the dog.
0: Handler places the treat to the side or above/below the muzzle.
4. Muzzle 1: Handler introduces the muzzle at a low enough stimulus level so as to avoid
introduction eliciting a negative or fearful reaction from the animal.
0: Handler attempts to introduce it at too high of a stimulus level such that the dog
does not immediately go for the treat.
5. Removal of 1: Handler removes the muzzle prior to removing the treat and pulls it far enough
muzzle, then away that it’s clear that the muzzle and treat are being removed.
removal of food 0: Handler removes the muzzle after removing the treat, allows dog to pull his
nose out of the muzzle, or does not pull the muzzle far enough away for the dog
to perceive that the muzzle and treat have been removed.
6. Session duration 1: Handler keeps sessions short enough to avoid having the dog show signs of
agitation.
0: Handler allows sessions to linger on, allowing dog to show signs of distress or fear.
7. Increasing 1: Only when the dog happily seeks to push his nose towards the muzzle does the
stimulus level handler gradually place the treat farther out of the muzzle. The end goal is to
have the dog push his nose fully into the muzzle by himself.
0: Handler pushes the muzzle onto the dog’s snout, causing the dog to become fearful.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 7/7
146
Desensitize and Countercondition to Gentle Leader

SCORE
1. Handler 1: Before attempting the procedure, handler positions herself next to dog in non-
positioning threatening manner by facing sideways and bending at the knees to get to the
dog’s level (keeping back straight).
0: Handler leans over the animal or approaches the animal head-on.
2. Gentle Leader 1: Handler presents the Gentle Leader stationary at the dog’s mouth level so that
positioning the loop remains open and the hand is not in the way. Handler presents the
Gentle Leader away from her own body and avoids pushing the Gentle Leader
onto the dog.
0: Handler keeps moving the Gentle Leader around, pushes it onto the dog, or
places the Gentle Leader into her own body, causing the dog to push his snout
into the handler.
3. Treat positioning 1: Handler places the treat in the center of the Gentle Leader loop such that it is
clearly visible to the dog.
0: Handler places the treat to the side or above/below the Gentle Leader.
4. Gentle Leader 1: Handler introduces the Gentle Leader at a low enough stimulus level so as to
introduction avoid eliciting a negative or fearful reaction from the animal.
0: Handler introduces the Gentle Leader at too high of a stimulus level (asking the
dog to shove his nose farther into the Gentle Leader before dog is ready) such
that the dog does not immediately shove his head through the loop.
5. Removal of Gentle 1: Handler removes the Gentle Leader prior to removing the treat.
Leader, then 0: Handler removes the Gentle Leader after removing the treat or allows dog to
removal of food pull his nose out of the Gentle Leader.
agitation.
7. Increasing 1: Only when the dog happily seeks to push his nose towards the Gentle Leader
stimulus level does the handler gradually place the treat farther out of the Gentle Leader loop
until the dog pushes his nose fully into the Gentle Leader by himself. To clip
on the Gentle Leader, the handler grabs the collar while hanging onto the Gentle
Leader strap.
0: Handler skips steps or moves to the next step too soon, causing the dog to be
fearful, or tries to clip on the Gentle Leader without controlling the dog’s head.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 7/7
147
Desensitize and Countercondition to Handling or Restraint –

Classical Counterconditioning
SCORE
1. Introduction of 1: Starting with the food clearly out of the dog’s reach, handler quickly places the
food food at the dog’s mouth, keeping the dog’s head in position for the procedure.
0: Before starting the procedure, the handler keeps the food close to dog so that it
encourages him to lean forward or to the side, or handler feeds the dog so that
his head moves out of position and dog becomes overaroused.
2. Introduction of 1: While the dog is happy, relaxed and staying in position, the handler introduces
handling the handling stimulus for about 3-5 seconds at a low enough level so that the
dog stays happy and relaxed.
0: Handler introduces the handling stimulus at too high of a level (i.e., handles
dog too roughly) so as to cause fear or nervousness in the dog, or handler
introduces the stimulus when the dog is still moving or showing fear.
3. Removal of 1: Handler removes the handling prior to removing the treat.

handling, then 0: Handler keeps handling after removing the treat or allows dog to wiggle out
removal of food of position.
agitation or anxiety.
5. Increasing 1: Only when the dog happily anticipates the handling and shows happy, relaxed
stimulus level body language when being handled does the handler increase the handling to
gradually approximate an actual injection or nail trim. The end goal is to have
the dog happy and relaxed as he receives an injection or nail trim.
0: Handler increases the roughness of handling or attempts to give injection
without the dog being completely relaxed and happy.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 5/5
148
Injections and Toenail Trim – Classical/Operant Counterconditioning

SCORE
1. Introduce 1: While the dog is happy, relaxed and staying in position, the handler introduces
handling first the handling stimulus for about 3-5 seconds at a low enough level so that the
dog stays happy and relaxed.
0: Handler introduces the handling stimulus at too high of a level (i.e., handles
dog too roughly) so as to cause fear or nervousness in the dog, or handler
introduces the stimulus when the dog is still moving or showing fear.
2. Introduce food 1: While the dog is happy and relaxed during handling, the handler places food in
dog’s mouth, keeping his head in position.
0: Handler feeds the dog so that his head moves out of position and dog gets
overaroused, or handler waits too long to introduce food, causing the dog fear or distress.
3. Remove handling 1: Handler removes the handling prior to removing the treat.
before removing 0: Handler removes the handling after removing the treat or allows dog to wiggle
food out of position.
4. Transition to 1: While the dog is still happy, relaxed and staying in position, handler begins
marking a clear handling the dog for a few seconds, then marks the behavior with a salient
and correct verbal “Yes!” or clicker.
behavior 0: Handler marks with a verbal “Yes!” or clicker after the dog is already showing
signs of fear or is wiggling out of position. Handler uses a frightening or
nervous tone or says the marker word too quietly.
5. Stop handling 1: Immediately after marking the behavior, the handler quickly removes her hands
from the dog and holds them far enough away to indicate that the handling has
clearly stopped.
0: Handler keeps her hands on the dog or allows hands to dangle in front of the
dog’s face.
6. Give food 1: Handler places the food in dog’s mouth within 0.5 seconds of marking the
immediately behavior. The handler ensures that the food is placed in position to keep dog’s head still.
0: Handler gives food more than 0.5 seconds after stopping the handling and/or
feeds the treats off to the side or in front, causing the dog to move his head.
agitation.
0: Handler allows dog to show signs of prolonged distress or fear before stopping.
8. Increasing 1: Only when the dog happily anticipates the handling and shows happy, relaxed
stimulus level body language when being handled does the handler increase the handling to
gradually approximate an actual injection or nail trim. The end goal is to have
the dog happy and relaxed as he receives an injection or nail trim.
0: Handler increases the roughness of handling or attempts to give injection
without the dog being completely relaxed and happy.
Passing Score:
(100%) or 8/8 149
150
GOLD-LEVEL CERTIFICATION TIPS
Low Stress Handling: Gold-Level Certification Tips
Congratulations on passing your Silver-Level Certification. Now, are you ready to go for the Gold? While Silver-Level Certification gave
you a good taste for Low Stress Handling and a lot of skills, Gold-Level Certification will really bring your skills and knowledge up a
notch, and you’ll be one step closer to being eligible for Instructor-Level Certification, if that’s your ultimate goal.
For Gold-Level Certification, you’ll be tested not only on each of the exercises listed in the Gold Scoring Rubric, but you’ll also be
challenged with an oral test on each discussion question. For that reason, we suggest that you:
1. review the Silver-Level Certification lectures, labs and discussion questions, and participate in our team-run discussion
sessions that take place online;
2. practice the exercises while having someone score you on the rubrics; and
3. practice coaching others while scoring them using the rubrics.
Gold-Level Certification testing will be available in 2015. For updates, please visit www.lowstresshandling.com.
151
152
INSTRUCTOR-LEVEL CERTIFICATION TIPS
Instructor-Level Certification Tips
Tips for Learning to Instruct

Introduction
Congratulations on your interest in earning Instructor-Level Certification in Low Stress Handling. If you’ve already received Gold-
Level Certification, you’re very much aware of the detailed skills and knowledge needed to use Low Stress Handling fully. Now you can
take it one step further and learn how to officially pass the knowledge on to others in an accurate and efficient manner.
Teaching is incredibly challenging as well as incredibly rewarding. It requires the impeccable knowledge and hands-on skills that you
developed during the Gold-Level Certification, an ability to express information clearly and recognize when someone needs help, and
the teaching skills to help them.
Why focus so much on how to teach? Because better instructor skills lead to students who:
1. learn faster and more effectively and thus achieve better success;
2. have a better understanding of why various exercises are performed in a specific manner and, as a result, will be more l
likely to follow your instructions rather than skipping steps or jumping to techniques they are already familiar with;
3. want to listen and participate instead of question your methods without even trying them; and
4. are more likely to perform the techniques accurately and to apply the information to novel situations.
To attain Instructor-Level Certification, one of our Low Stress Handling staff members must observe you teaching the lab material and
running discussion sessions. To help you prepare in the most efficient and successful manner, we are providing a process for learning to
teach.
Process for Learning to Teach
Low Stress Handling techniques are very detailed. The process we introduce here is the same one that our interns and employees must
go through to teach. We also require participants to go through this process prior to testing at the Instructor-Level.
What follows is an instruction guide on how to watch the videos of Dr. Yin teaching the Low Stress Handling exercises. Following
the guide will help you catch the intricate details of the order exercises are taught in and the verbiage used to describe techniques. It
will also assist you in writing your own script—one that will help you be effective in teaching these exercises yourself. The process of
learning to teach starts with advice on how to get the most from watching Dr. Yin’s videos. Prior to instituting this guide on how to
watch videos and teach the exercises, interns learning to teach were not careful enough to instruct at the level we expected without
intensive tutoring. To teach effectively and efficiently, it’s essential to catch the intricate details shown within these labs, understand
the order in which the steps in each exercise are taught, and recognize the importance of correct verbiage. The order and verbiage was
developed based on teaching experience, analysis of learning efficiency and feedback from previous learners.
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Assignment: Watch each of the 5 labs from the Low Stress Handling Silver-Level Certification and create your
own teaching script. Watch the videos, and for each exercise create a detailed script that follows the format below.
I. Exercise Name (For instance, “Restraining a Dog”)

A. Introduction: The purpose of the introduction is to prepare the students for what’s coming. Listen closely and write how
the exercise is introduced. We generally explain the purpose of the exercise in 1-2 sentences and/or provide a brief overview.
Avoid just saying what will be done or you’ll sound like you’re just teaching the exercise in this way because someone told you
to, and you routinely do or believe what people tell you rather than think critically.
1. Example intro (good): When restraining a dog, it’s important to know how to control movement in all 6 directions—right, left,
up, down, front, back. In this exercise we will learn 5 holds that control movement in the rear end and 7 holds that control
movement of the front end as well as the directions of movement each hold controls.
Intro 1 is good because it explains the overall purpose of specifically controlling movement in 6 directions so that the student
will be ready to think systematically about the various directions and be ready to hear about the different directions. The student
will also know that there are two clumps of information—rear end holds fall into one category and front end holds fall into
another. It’s as if you’re using audible bullet points; when you break things up into 2 or 3 categories or steps, it helps the learner
be ready to receive information, and they will retain more.
2. Example intro (confusing): Now we’re going to work on restraint holds on the rear and front end. The first one is the…
This intro does not provide reasoning for or a pattern of the holds that will be covered. As a result, the student is more likely to
be overwhelmed with the 13 holds presented. Additionally, when students don’t understand the overall purpose, they’re more
likely to do what they’re used to instead of what you’re teaching. They’re also more likely to try shortcuts, thinking they have a
better way without ever having tried your method because they haven’t been presented with the big picture.
B. Steps of the exercise: Write down the steps in the exact order that they are taught.
1. After writing a step, ask yourself:
a. Why do you think this step of the exercise is taught in this order? What do you think would happen if you
switched the location of this step or skipped it altogether? Test this out.
b. After practicing, can you think of a better way to explain or demonstrate the step or order it differently? If so, test it out
and document the results.
C. Length of teaching each exercise: Record the time each exercise takes to teach on the video. Then practice teaching an exercise
while timing yourself to see how efficient your explanation is.
1. Do your students need to ask many clarifying questions?
2. Are they able to perform the techniques right the first, second or third time, or do they need a lot of extra instruction to get
it right?
3. Can you recognize when students are performing the exercises correctly and explain what and how they can improve? Can
you do so in a constructive manner, and does the student trust that you are correct? If you do not have a specific reason and
measure that guides your criteria for what is correct and incorrect, then your students may not believe you.
II. Important Tips

A. Write in your notebook a script for yourself, using the correct verbiage from the video that Dr. Yin uses.
B. Pay attention to what’s described as well as what is not described in detail. It’s important that your teaching does not involve
long, overly involved discourses. Speaking should be limited to many short sentences with demonstrations interspersed between
segments.
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C. Note for how long the instructor is speaking. When teaching, we should only talk for 30-60 seconds or learners may lose focus.
If you need more time than this to explain something, be sure to have a demonstration in your script so they can watch what
you’re explaining.
D. Another important thing to notice is the volume and inflection of the instructor’s voice. You must speak loudly and clearly when
instructing and stress important words and points. Avoid speaking too softly, too fast or without spacing between sentences.
Also avoid speaking slowly or hesitantly. And be aware of the tendency to speak in a high, squeaky voice when nervous—avoid
that too.
E. In the video, do you hear fillers like “um,” “uh,” and “like?” You shouldn’t. When speaking to a group, if you lose your train of
thought or need to pause, then just pause; avoid filling the silence with fillers.
F. Note the order of exercises and steps. A specific order for teaching exercises or steps is based on common mistakes, from which
we determine what techniques need to be focused on first; then we add in additional parts of the exercise.
1. When you’re watching the video, write down what is taught in each step and which things are added in what order.
This is the order the exercise should be taught in every time.
2. Also, notice how many times each step is demonstrated. For learners to really obtain and retain information, it generally
needs to be demonstrated at least 3 times. Students performing an exercise typically need to do so correctly 3-5 times
to learn the feel for the exercise before they can move on.
3. After thinking about these teaching tips, keep in mind that in some cases, within each demonstration you’ll need to provide
slightly different information depending on the situation and the audience.

For instance, in many exercises you have a lot of information to give, but as mentioned before, you can’t talk for more than
1-2 minutes without demonstrating, or learners will lose focus. For the first demo, show the most important parts of
the exercise. During the next demo, add 1-2 additional points. Then for the last demo, add ancillary points
while expressing how all the information ties together. For instance, add some if-then scenarios—“if the dog does this, then
you can do this.” But it’s important not to introduce the ancillary information before students have learned all the steps.
G. Practice teaching the exercise, but first practice reciting exercises to yourself. Once you have the words down, practice on
friends. This practice is extremely important because understanding the exercise is very different from being able to teach
others to understand and perform it. When you practice, it’s a good idea to videotape yourself teaching so you can confirm that
you’ve touched on all the points discussed in this guide. Once that happens, you will have become a successful instructor.
Sample Teaching Script
This sample teaching script is based on an exercise from Dr. Yin’s dog training class. To see the exercise taught, watch Dr. Yin’s
workshop DVD: Skills for Handling Your Reactive or Hyperactive Dog Pt. 1: A Workshop for Developing Focus and Impulse Control.
The script here is written using the Repeat Sits Backwards exercise as reference. Although your script will be for teaching Low Stress
Handling exercises as opposed to this one, the structure and content should be parallel.
In this exercise, we start with the dog sitting in front of the handler. The handler backs up quickly enough so the dog will trot after him
for about 5 steps and then the handler stops. When the dog stops and sits, she is rewarded with 1 treat for sitting and additional treats
for remaining seated. Note that in the workshop DVD, the students had already seen the exercise on video before they attended, so Dr.
Yin did not demo with a dog or explain what the exercise looked like before participants practiced.
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Repeat Sits Backwards – Human-only Exercise
Brief 1-2 sentence I. Introduction: “When working with dogs, it’s important to be able to quickly get your dog’s full
introduction that attention and maintain it even when distractions are present. The exercise we’re doing now is called
explains the exercise Repeat Sits Backwards; it uses movement and speed to achieve this and get our dogs focused on us, even
and the purpose.
with distractions.” Demo the exercise with a dog or by yourself here. Then perform a demo on speed of
movement using a person. “May I have someone to act as my dog for a demonstration?”
A. Demonstrate
Here, we ask, “Does With a human acting as the dog, show what it looks like to move backwards too slowly and
anyone know...” to
ask: “So, was it clear that you should follow me?” Then demo moving backwards faster—it
help break up the
monotony of just will be clear to the audience that the slow movement did not provide clear direction, but the
having the trainer faster movement did. State the importance of this: “When we move, it’s important to be able to
present the material move fast so we’re providing clear direction to the dog. But before we can get the speed we need,
in lecture/demo we’ll need to get the steps down at a slower pace. Does anyone know why we start backwards
style. This helps instead of forwards or to the side?” Listen to answers, then explain the correct answer. “Because
engage the audience.
it’s easier for the dog to focus on you when he’s facing you.” Enthusiastically say “correct” if an
attendee answers correctly.
II. Human-only drill: “Now we’re going to begin. Please line up next to each other facing me. First
we’re going to work on the steps and the movement without dogs, so that when we work with our dogs,
we will always be providing them with the proper direction. I’ll demonstrate the steps for you; it’s going
to look like this.”
A. Demonstrate
The first step of this Because you’re walking slowly you only need to demo it 1-2 times. (If you go fast, you’ll have
exercise involves to demo it more.) Step backwards and say “We’ll start out taking 5 steps: right, left, right, left,
understanding the right, feet together.” NOTE: Start very slowly at first because they’re doing this for the first time. It’s
steps without dogs.
okay to exaggerate the steps so they’re clear.
You’ll see there is
quite a bit of talking
here, but since there’s B. Observe the class
a demonstration, “Okay, now let’s try it together, I’ll do an 8 count and then we’ll go. 1, 2, 3, 4 - 1, 2, 3, 4, right,
that’s okay. left, right, left, right, feet together.” Have the class perform the steps 3-5 times while you do
it with them from the front of the class. Say the words sharply and at an even pace—it takes
practice counting sharply and to the beat correctly.
Watch participants to make sure they’re doing it right. After the worst person gets it correct
a few times, then continue on. If you lose them early, they won’t be able to do the rest of the
exercise. Depending on space, when they get to one side of the room, have them turn around and
do it the opposite direction. To save time and keep the flow of the class going, you must hustle to
get into position or class will run long and people will get bored. Ask, “Are there any questions?
Do you all feel comfortable with the steps we’ve done so far?” Answer and provide help as
needed so that everyone understands before moving to the next step.
C. Add the metronome

Say “Okay, now we’re going to practice the steps with the metronome. We’ll start at a relaxed
pace, and work our speed up from there.” Start the metronome at 112 bpm and continue to call
out, “1, 2, 3, 4 – 1, 2, 3, 4, right, left, right, left, right, feet together,” while demonstrating in front
of them. Repeat each speed 3-5 times, while in between each practice—if they feel comfortable—
add in other information (e.g., “remember to keep your arms in a neutral position.” (See Section D
or other important things to remind them of during these steps.) The increments depend on how the
156 students are doing. Sometimes you can skip steps, other times you need to increase the speed more gradually.
1. 125 bpm and practice 3-5 times

The next step 2. 135 bpm, practice 3-5 times and tell people, “If you feel off balance or too tired, you
is speeding up
can rest or slow down.”
incrementally to
the ideal speed for 3. 150 bpm and practice 3-5 times
working with dogs. 4. 165 bpm and practice 3-5 times
At about 165 bpm you will more clearly see that those who are not bending their knees are
behind the first beat. Show them what they’re doing; e.g., standing completely still and
then frantically trying to prepare and back up at the same time on beat 1. Exaggerate your
demonstration of the mistake to make it clear. Say, “So now that we’re getting pretty fast, it
Here, the instruction
to bend the knees can be tricky to walk backwards quickly since we’re not used to it. From here on out,
is not added at instead of saying ‘4,’ I’m going to say ‘bend.’ We’ll bend our knees slightly before we
the beginning, but take our first step backwards. This will help us keep our body posture upright and move
only when the quickly. 1, 2, 3, 4 - 1, 2, 3, bend, right, left, right, left, right, feet together.”
speed is increased 5. Finally speed up to ideal speed—175 bpm—and practice until everyone can perform it
intentionally,
correctly. Watch for people taking steps that are too small, since there is a tendency to do
because it’s best for
people to get the this when we increase speed. Let them know first, “You guys have the speed right,
steps first. but did anyone notice which way you’re leaning? Many of you are leaning forwards.”
To fix this, practice standing in front of individuals and backing up with them. They
will back up faster because they’ll have to move out of your way so you don’t back up over
them. Ask, “When I was in front of you, did you feel the difference in how you moved?”
6. If they slow down, work your way up to 175 bpm again. (However, they aren’t likely to
slow down.)
Once they have the

D. Add additional reminders
steps down, we can
remind them of While working on speeding up, throw in some additional reminders. Add these before speeding up
things they may not to a new step or after working at a new speed a couple of times comfortably.
have concentrated 1. “Remember to keep your arms in a neutral position, at all times.”
on when they were 2. “Your body weight should be centered over your legs rather than leaning forwards. If you lean
thinking about forwards, you’re actually telling your dog not to follow faster, because you are coming towards him.”
learning the exercise.
3. “Make sure to look at your dog and not at the ground.”
4. “We want to make sure we’re moving fast enough so our dogs can follow us at a fast trot. That
makes it easier for them to focus on us.”
E. Continue practicing the exercise

Practice the exercise until participants have all the components correct (approximately 3-5 times or
more if needed). Also have them practice delivering treats a few times; tell them when to deliver.
Wait until they have completely stopped and are balanced. Then say “now” and have them deliver
Briefly conclude the a treat.
exercise by stating
the main points and
F. Conclude the exercise
asking if anyone has
questions. “Great, it looks like we’ve all got the steps down. Just remember to keep your neutral body posture.
Or think about getting from one place to another quickly, and then your body will lean in the right
direction. Let’s get our dogs and try this exercise with them now.”
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Preparing Your Script

Each instructor, prior to testing, is required to write out her script and justify each sentence or point in the script. The script must be
written in the following format:
SECTION SCRIPT PURPOSE

Introduction When working with dogs, it’s important to be able to quickly get your This lets people know why we are
dog’s full attention and maintain it, even when distractions are present. training this specific exercise.
The exercise we’re doing now is called Repeat Sits Backwards... They must know the name so that
if they’re in a difficult situation and
we say, “do repeat sits,” they will
know what to do and be able to get
their dog under control.
…it uses movement and speed to achieve this and get our dogs Buy-in and get them to pay
focused on us, even with distractions. attention more. This tells people
that we are not just using food
“bribes” to get dogs to focus
on us, but also we are teaching
participants something different
from what they may have learned
before—that they will need to
focus not just on giving rewards
but even more so on using
movement and speed.
Introductory demo Demo the exercise quickly or just explain it in 30 seconds. It’s important to demo so that
during the next 10-minute human-
only exercise they will understand
why they are working on the
foundation steps of this exercise.
With a human acting as the dog, show what it looks like to move Buy-in: This demo will give them
backwards too slowly and ask: “So, was it clear that you should follow buy-in. They’ll see clearly how
me?” Then demo moving backwards faster—it will be clear to the movement affects communication
audience that the slow movement did not provide clear direction but and hence believe that you are
the faster movement did. State the importance of this: “When we teaching them a good method.
move, it’s important to be able to move fast so we’re providing clear They will be more likely to try to
direction to the dog. But before we can get the speed we need, we’ll learn the method.
need to get the steps down at a slower pace.
Does anyone know why we start backwards instead of forwards or to Class flow/audience engagement:
the side?” We ask this to help break up the
monotony of just having the
trainer present the material in
lecture/demo style. Questions lead
to better engagement.
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SECTION SCRIPT PURPOSE

(Why do we do this?
What happens if we omit it)
Instruct
Demo
Instruct
Demo
Conclusion
Conclusion
Now that you have the tips to becoming a successful instructor, the process should be pretty straightforward. Go out and practice and
you’ll be on your way to preparing for Instructor-Level Certification!
Instructor-Level Certification will be available in 2015. For more updates on certification guidelines, visit www.lowstresshandling.com
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Discussion Question Tips
While students may answer discussions questions diligently, frequently the answers are incomplete or partially correct. The following
tips are to help guide students know when they are on the right track vs. when they need to refer back to the video, glossary, or Low
Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats for the answers. Tips are only provided for the questions that
students most frequently get incorrect.
Chapter 1: Recognizing Brewing Fear and Aggression in Dogs and Cats (Lecture 1 in Creating the Pet-Friendly
Hospital, Animal Shelter or Petcare Business)
4. What is the sensitive period for socialization? (Define what it is.) Note that this period occurs in species and individuals regardless
of whether they live with humans or in the wild, so do not define it based on how humans should raise a given animal.
The answers should provide the definition for a sensitive period of socialization. Answering with the approximate time period (3 weeks
to 3 months) or with what one should do to take advantage of this period (e.g. the time when you should start socialization….)
is incorrect. Students may want to read this blog, “Puppy Behaviors: A Sensitive Period for Puppy Socialization” (http://
drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/sensitive-period-for-socialization-in-puppies).
6. What are some signs of fear and anxiety that were talked about in the video? Of these signs, which do you think are the easiest to miss?
The answers should be based on the signs seen in the video, not signs they have seen elsewhere which may or may not be signs of anxiety.
14. Your neighbor says, “My German Shepherd is aggressive because she’s mean. Once a friend tried to pet her, but she sat away from
him and leaned away from him as he repeatedly reached for her. After my friend kept trying to reach for her, my dog rubbed against
him as if she was soliciting petting. Then suddenly, out of the blue, my dog snapped at him! She had a “hard” look in her eyes when
she snapped. Now she often goes up to unfamiliar people and rubs on them and then snaps at them. I can tell she’s not scared,
because she has that “hard” look right when she snaps. She’s just mean!” Question: Is your neighbor’s assessment of her dog correct?
Provide details to support each part of your answer.
Students should be sure to use appropriate terminology mentioned in the video.
Chapter 2: Rapid Reversal of Fear and Aggression in Dogs and Cats (Lecture 2 in Creating the Pet-Friendly
Hospital, Animal Shelter or Petcare Business)
7. You are getting ready teach a client how to DS/CC a cat to receiving injections. You’ll use canned food and a syringe. What
points do you need to explain to the client regarding timing and positioning of the treats/food?
Tip: Be sure to refer to the practice exercises to ensure that you cover each important point.
15. What is the difference between classical counterconditioning and operant counterconditioning?
Tip: Notice that the answer you give here may be different from providing the definitions.
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DISCUSSION QUESTION TIPS
16. If you are using classical counterconditioning to train a cat to enjoy a procedure such as being restrained on her side, do
you need to present food prior to adding the aversive stimulus (the restraint) in order for the procedure to be considered classical
counterconditioning? Please explain why or why not.
Tip: The answer is “no” but must include a detailed explanation of why.
18. ADVANCED QUESTIONS: A horse is fearful of the big red garbage can in front of the barn. For each category of behavior
modification, come up with one technique you might use to address the problem. Use appropriate verbiage that makes it clear
that you know how to execute the techniques appropriately (even if you would not use the technique).
• For flooding the stimulus should be clearly presented full force
• For desensitization be sure to talk about threshold
• For classical counterconditioning be sure that you are not talking about rewards or requiring a specific behavior to
occur; if you are training a specific behavior it’s operant counterconditioning.
• For operant counterconditioning be sure that you are training a behavior
• To remember the factors important in carrying the techniques out correctly, refer to the “Practice Exercises”
Chapter 4: What Giraffes, Dogs and Chickens Have in Common—Training Techniques that Work for All
Creatures (Lecture 1 in Pet Dogs, Problem Dogs, High Performance Dogs: How Science Can Take Your Training to
a New Level)
2. What is the definition of classical conditioning?
Tip: Students must check answers with the glossary to ensure that the answer is correct. It’s also good to include an example.
3. What is the definition of classical counterconditioning?
Tip: Go back to chapter 2 and note that when Dr. Yin described classical counterconditioning in chapter 2 she did not provide the full
scientific definition because she had not yet covered classical conditioning.
19. If you create a shaping plan and you’re getting stuck, what are the 3 errors you could be making? For instance, you’re training
a dog to lie down on a rug for 1 minute, but the dog keeps getting up before 1 minute. What could be going wrong? (Explain
in detail what you may have been doing and how you would change it)
Tip: It is not adequate to say “you want to fast.” Fast may mean many different things to many different people. Its essential to you clear
verbiage that will provide us (and clients) with a clear picture of what you mean. You should be able to provide an answer without
needing an example to explain what you mean.
23. When training dogs—to greet politely, for instance—should you ignore bad behavior?
Tip: Answer is “no” and there are 2 reasons why.
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Chapter 5: Towel Wrap Techniques for Handling Cats with Skill and Ease
21. What are the 3 most common errors people make when capturing a cat in the blanket wrap?
Tip: The first and most common mistake is that hands are not laying flat on the table when starting the wrap. The hands should be
placed flat on the table and the fingers then folded over in order to fold the towel over.
Chapter 6: Kitty Kindergarten: Creating the New Improved Cat Through Early Socialization
2. What is a sensitive period for socialization and approximately when does it occur in cats?
The answer should provide the definition for a sensitive period of socialization. Answering with the approximate time period (3 weeks
to 3 months) or with what one should do to take advantage of this period (e.g. the time when you should start socialization….)
is incorrect.
5. How can you tell when your cat is having a positive experience vs. when your cat is fearful and anxious?
Tip: The answer must describe body language signs that indicate fear/anxiety vs. a positive emotional state.
9. What is the general approach to solving behavior problems in cats?
Tip: The word “ignore” should not be a part of this answer. Ignore is not synonymous with “remove rewards”; it is ONLY a removal
of rewards when the behavior is maintained by attention. This is an important concept.
Chapter 7: Essential Exercises for Moving Dogs From Place to Place (from Handling, Moving, and Restraining
Dogs in Stressful Environments, Part. 1: A Workshop on Essential Exercises with Special Techniques for Medium
and Large Dogs)
4. What is an about-turn? Explain how to perform the about-turn correctly.
Tip: You should be able to describe this in one sentence in a way that you give the listener a clear idea of what an about-turn (T turn) is.
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GLOSSARY OF USEFUL ANIMAL BEHAVIOR DEFINITIONS
Glossary of Useful Animal Behavior Definitions
Arousal: A physiologic and psychologic state of heightened emotion, activity and reaction to stimuli. It is characterized by an increase
in heart rate, blood pressure, sensory alertness, mobility and readiness to respond.
Agonistic pucker: Body posture in which the lips are raised revealing just the incisors and the canines.
Aversive: Anything the animal dislikes or avoids.
Anxiety: A feeling of dread, fear, or apprehension, in the absense of a clear physical threat. It may arise in response to apparently
innocuous situations.
Back chain: To train a series of behaviors by training the last behavior first and sequentially adding on additional behaviors that
immediately precede the last one learned.
Behavior chain: A series of behaviors performed in sequence. Each behavior may be prompted by a cue or the previous behavior may
serve as the cue. The procedure for building chains is called chaining.
Belongingness: The concept of certain responses naturally belonging with certain reinforcers such that animals are most likely to be
able to learn certain responses when those responses are associated with the particular reinforcers. For instance, rats are more likely to
learn to avoid certain foods when the foods are followed by nausea, but less likely to learn to avoid the foods if the foods were instead
followed by a shock.
Blocking effect: Prior conditioning of one cue (or conditioned stimulus) interferes with or blocks the learning of a second cue for the
same behavior (or conditioned response) if the two cues are presented together. (. (e.g. When one cue, such as a visual cue, has already
been trained and then a second one, such as a verbal cue, is presented simultaneously in an effort to train this second cue, the prior
learning of the first cue may interfere with learning of the second cue).
Bribing: When the animal already knows how to perform the behavior well in the given context but the human has to show the dog the
potentinal reward first in order to get that behavior to occur.
Bridging stimulus: A conditioned stimulus or cue that bridges the gap between the behavior and the unconditioned stimulus. It can
either bridge the gap between the correct behavior and the food reinforcement (or other reinforcer), or it can bridge the gap in time
between the inappropriate behavior and the conditioned punishment.
Classical conditioning: Learning by association. When a neutral stimulus (one that initially has no meaning to the animal)
is repeatedly paired with an unconditioned stimulus, the neutral stimulus gradually comes to elicit the same response as the
unconditioned stimulus.
Classical counterconditioning: Classically conditioning an association that’s opposite to the association that has already been
classically conditioned. Typically when you hear the term counter-conditioning, it refers to classical counter-conditioning
Clicker training: Training that involves positive reinforcement and a bridging stimulus where the bridging stimulus is the sound from
a clicker.
Conditioned response: A response that is classically conditioned by repeated pairings of one stimuli with an unconditioned stimulus.
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Conditioned stimulus: When one stimulus is repeatedly paired with an unconditioned stimulus until it elicits the same response as the
unconditioned stimulus.
Continuous reinforcement: The reinforcement occurs every time the behavior occurs.
Counterconditioning: Classically conditioning an association that’s opposite to an association that has already been classically
conditioned.
Desensitization: Presentation of a stimulus (usually an aversive stimulus) at a low level that the animal does not respond to and
gradually increasing the strength of the stimulus until the animal learns to ignore the full-force stimulus.
Domestication: The process occurring over many generations by which a population or species of animals becomes adapted to living
with humans in the captive environment. During these many generations, the genetic composition of the population changes to make
the adaptation possible.
Empirical description: A description of behavior in terms of the subject’s body postures or movements.
Extinction: The gradual weakening of a previously learned behavior once that behavior is no longer reinforced.
Extinction burst: The initial increase in a particular behavior that may occur when a behavior that has been reinforced in the past is no
longer reinforced.
Fear: An unpleasant emotion cause by impending danger or pain.
Fixed ratio of reinforcement: The reinforcers are presented at an intermittent ratio that is fixed (e.g. reinforced every 2nd, 3rd, 4th time).
Flooding: Presenting a stimulus (usually an aversive) in full force, in such a way that the animal cannot escape from the stimulus, until
the animal no longer responds to the stimulus.
Functional description: A description of behavior in terms of the functions or consequences of it (e.g., submissive posture, escape
behavior).
Habituation: The process by which an animal that initially responds to some stimulus—such as the sound of a train or the sight of a
car roaring by—stops responding to the stimulus over time due to repeated exposure to the stimulus in the absence of any aversive or
pleasurable experience. In other words, habituation means that the animals “gets used to it.”
Impulse control: The ability to control emotions, behavior and desires in the face of external stimuli and to resist reacting to obtain
immediate reward.
Impulsivity: The tendency to act on a whim; display behavior characterized by little or no forethought, reflection, or consideration of
consequences. It results in lack of self-control and an inability to delay gratification.
Instinctive drift: : Is the tendency of an animal to revert to instinctive behaviors that are related to the reinforcer and that interfere
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GLOSSARY OF USEFUL ANIMAL BEHAVIOR DEFINITIONS
with a trained behavior. For instance a raccoon being trained using food rewards to place tokens in a piggy bank may easily drift to
making the same washing movements with the tokens as he would with food if he gets confused or he receives accidental reinforcement
for these behaviors. This phenomenon was originated by B.F. Skinner’s former graduate students, Marian and Keller Breland in their
landmark paper, Misbehavior of Organisms. The significance in training is that trainers should be careful to avoid reinforcing these
instinctive behaviors if they want to avoid the occurance of these behaviors when training a specific task.
Intermittent reinforcement: The behavior is reinforced only some of the time.
Luring: When a reward is shown to the animal prior to the animal’s performing the behavior to encourage or guide the animal to
perform the correct behavior.
Mark: To distinguish or make clear. Marking a correct behavior means you are making it clear to the animal which behavior he has
performed correctly or when exactly he has performed the correct behavior.
Marker word: A verbal bridging stimulus. For instance, one can train a dog that “yes” is followed immediately with delivery of a food
reward. After many trials, “yes” can be used to mark a correct behavior because it signals to the animal that a food reward will be
delivered shortly thereafter.
Motor pattern: A series of behaviors that naturally occur in sequence that constitute one function.
Negative: In operant conditioning terminology, negative means to remove something or subtract something.
Negative punishment: By removing something the animal wants, the likelihood that the behavior will occur again decreases.
Negative reinforcement: By removing something aversive (something the animal dislikes), the likelihood the behavior will occur
again increases.
Neutral stimulus: One that has no meaning to the animal prior to pairing it with an unconditioned stimulus.
Operant conditioning: Trial and error learning.
Operant counterconditioning: Training a replacement behavior or a behavior that is incompatible with the behavior the animal
normally exhibits in the given context.
Overshadowing: This term refers to a classical conditioning phenomenon. When two neutral stimuli (i.e. potential cues) are paired at
the same time with a unconditioned stimulus, the more salient stimulus (more noticeable) may hinder the learning of the less salient
stimulus. For instance when training dogs a verbal hand signal vs a word for a behavior such as sitting or lying down, if you present
the hand signal and the verbal cue together, the dog is more likely to learn the hand signal and not the word. The hand signal is more
salient and overshadows the presence of the word.
Phobia: An intense anxiety or aversion that is unreasonably evoked by a something.
Poisoned cue: This is a colloquial term meaning that the animal associates a cue with a negative or unpleasant experience (e.g., a choke
chain is used to teach a sit so the dog associated “sit” with an unpleasant experience).
Positive: In operant conditioning terminology, positive refers to adding something.
Positive punishment: By adding something aversive, the likelihood that the behavior will occur again decreases.
165
Positive reinforcement: By adding something the animal wants, the likelihood that the behavior will occur again increases.
Premack principle: High-probability responses can serve to reinforce low-probability responses, and a strong reinforcer is anything the
animal would rather do.
Punishment: Anything that decreases the likelihood that a behavior will occur again.
Reactive: Characterized by responding to normal stimuli with a higher-than-normal level of intensity. It’s accompanied by a
physiologic response, and changes in the emotional state that interfere with a quick return to homeostasis and normal behavior. In
dogs, this can manifest as hypervigilance, hyperexcitability, vocalization (barking, whining, howling) lunging, mouthing, pacing,
panting, difficulty responding to well-known cues, difficulty calming down or any combination of the above.
Reinforcement: Anything that increases the likelihood that a behavior will occur again.
Salient: Noticeable, prominent, distinctive, to stand out conspiciously from rest of the environment.
Sensitize: To lower the animal’s response threshold to a given stimuli or increase his response to a given stimuli.
Sensitive period for socialization: The time of development during which a young animal is primed to form bonds and attachments
and learn to accept objects, environments and other animals as safe. The period varies by species. For dogs, it is between 3 and 12 weeks of age.
Shaping: The process whereby you train a behavior by starting with a simple behavior that can easily be reinforced and then
systematically reinforcing behaviors that are closer and closer to the goal behavior.
Successive approximations: The sequential steps, each a little closer to the goal behavior, in a shaping plan.
Systematic desensitization: Presenting a stimulus (usually an aversive stimulus) at a low level that the animal does not respond to and
gradually increasing the strength of the stimulus until the animal learns to ignore the full-force stimulus.
Tameness: A process that occurs within an individual’s lifetime. In science circles, tameness describes an animal’s willingness to
approach humans and is measured by the animal’s flight distance. Tame animals have zero flight distance, which means you can walk
right up to the animal and he won’t flee. For example, a 10-foot (3m) flight distance is one where you can approach up to 11 feet (3.5m),
but when you hit 10 feet (3m), the animal runs away.
Unconditioned response: The involuntary or automatic response to a stimulus. It requires no prior training.
Unconditioned stimulus: A stimulus that innately causes a response. No prior training is needed.
Variable ratio of reinforcement: The reinforcements are presented intermittently when the animal performs the correct behavior, and
the rate of reinforcement varies (that is, the number of times the animals is expected to perform the correct behavior before getting a
reward varies).
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SECTION
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SECTION

Low Stress Handling of Dogs & Cats

THE ART & SCIENCE OF ANIMAL BEHAVIOR

August 2014 Update

Copyright ©2014 by Sophia A. Yin

Editor: Cheryl Kolus, DVM

CattleDog Publishing, A Veterinary Corporation

Test Yourself to See What You Already Know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

1. Discussion Questions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106

1. Discussion Questions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120

1. Discussion Questions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138

Gold-Level Certification Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151

4. Which of these holds controls movement of the front end in more

Arm hold on a small dog Collar hold on a small dog

6. The general approach to modifying behavior is to reward desired

7. Without scruffing, boxes or bags, a towel wrap, or clipnosis, how

9. Describe five improvements that can be made to make this waiting

3. See Lecture 3 for the answer.

5. See Lecture 3 for the answer.

6. See Lecture 4 for the answer.

Introduction and Tips for Learning

Learn the material fluently rather than just

Overview of the 3-Step Study Process

For instance, which set of numbers is easier to memorize?

3269863543 or 326 – 986 – 3543

Methods for modifying behavior

I. Methods of behavior modification

1. Classical counterconditioning: With classical counter-conditioning we classically condition a new association.

Know Your Terminology

Fixed ratio of reinforcement:

Positive: In operant conditioning terminology, positive refers to adding something.

Sensitive period for socialization:

Variable ratio of reinforcement:

Chapter 1: Recognizing Brewing Fear and Aggression

Chapter 1: Recognizing Brewing Fear and Aggression

3. Why is fear in dogs and cats so common?

Sample Student Outlines for Recognizing Brewing Fear and Aggression

Sample Student Outline 1

a. Case 1: Dog runs away from plastic sheet

Sample Student Outline 2

3. Owners should do puppy classes and practice at home

1. Dog shows fleeting signs of fear in this or similar contexts

3. To change overarousal behavior

Chapter 1: Recognizing Brewing Fear and Aggression

PRACTICE EXE RCISES

Chapter 1: Recognizing Brewing Fear and Aggression

GOLD CERTIFICATION RUBRIC

Approaching and Placing a Slip Lead on a Fearful Dog: Handler’s Technique

Getting Into a Kennel Safely: Handler’s Technique

Getting Out of a Kennel Safely: Handler’s Technique

Additional Required Resources for Gold-Level Certification

Chapter 2: Rapid Reversal of Fear and Aggression

Chapter 2: Rapid Reversal of Fear and Aggression

b. What type of behavior modification is occurring?

Chapter 2: Rapid Reversal of Fear and Aggression

Doggie Taste Test

Kitty Taste Test

Describe your placement of the treat needed to keep the pet

What body language or behavior might you see that would

How did you decide when to go to the next step?