FW

Fashion Week
Series

ROUNDUP
WOMEN’S FASHION WEEK
AW 23 On the cover, Saint Laurent
 W O M E N ’ S FA S H I O N W E E K

CONTENTS

6 Key Data 8 Seasonal Data 9 Influencer Data 10 Top 10 Brands 14 Top Influencers 18 City by City 20 New York
22 London 24 Milan 26 Paris 28 Key Insights 30 The Media Shuffle 32 The Power of Pop Culture 34 The Show as a
Spectacle 36 China Returns to the Circuit 38 K-Pop and Thai Drama go Head-to-Head 40 The Interview: The Rise
of Mia Khalifa 42 Ones to Watch 46 Top 50 Brands 50 Top 30 Influencers

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Methodology This study is based on the analysis of more than 6.811 influencers with more than 10,000
followers on Instagram who have tagged a participating fashion house’s Instagram
account in-post during New York, London, Milan, and Paris Fashion Weeks AW 2023.
The influencers presented in this study have been identified thanks to Lefty’s proprie-
tary algorithms, which identify and attribute content to a brand based on @ mentions.

Suppose an influencer does not directly mention a brand using a specific hashtag (ex.
#brandfw23) or by tagging the brand’s account in-caption or in-post (ex. @brandoffi-
cial). In that case, Lefty will not be able to retrieve the post, and it will not be counted
towards the brand’s total performance.

On Instagram, this study focuses its analysis only on Instagram in-feed posts (Posts,
Videos, Carousels) and does not look at Instagram stories. Collaborative posts between
accounts are only attributed to the account which initiated the collaboration.

Lefty defines Earned Media Value (EMV) as the equivalent ad spend of the impressions
gained. The EMV is calculated by estimating the number of impressions of each publi-
cation and associating a CPM of $100 on Instagram, and $70 on Weibo. The formula
used is: (Impressions * CPM) / 1000.

Even though the list of influencers retrieved aims to be exhaustive, some influencers
who have posted looks for brands may not be taken into account in the present study.

• New York Fashion Week AW23 tracking from February 10th to 16th 2023.
The data analysis of NYFW AW23 was retrieved from Lefty on March 8th, 2023.
• London Fashion Week AW23 tracking from February 17th to 22st 2023.
The data analysis of LFW AW23 was retrieved from Lefty on February 23nd, 2023.
• Milan Fashion Week AW23 tracking from February 22nd to 28th 2023.
The data analysis of MFW AW23 was retrieved from Lefty on March 1st, 2023.
• Paris Fashion Week AW23* tracking from February 28th to March 9th 2023.
The data analysis of PFW AW23 was retrieved from Lefty on March 13th, 2023.

*Note that Bottega Veneta is not taken into account of this study due to not having an
official Instagram account and the @newbottega account being private.

Note: Discrepancies in engagement, the number of likes, shares, or comments on posts

may appear due to content continuing to be interacted with on Instagram after the date
of the data being downloaded from Lefty.

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MEET the TEAM

Anna Ross Lea Mao Annika Baer

Editor & Project Lead Data Insights & Analytics Data Insights
Head of Creative Insight Head of Marketing, Lefty & Analytics & Editor
& Trends, Karla Otto Marketing Manager to US
and EU Markets, Lefty

Nicole Brixi Danai Mourouzi Jade Arida Valerio Farris Renzo Angeloni
Editorial Assistance Editorial Assistance Editorial Assistance Editorial Assistance Editorial Assistance
Beauty Coordinator, Digital Account Assistant, Creative Strategist Creative Strategist, Account Executive,
Karla Otto Karla Otto Assistant, Karla Otto Karla Otto Lefty

Miguel Martínez Pauline Guiuan

Graphics & Illustration Graphic Assistance
Brand Designer, Lefty Art Director, Karla Otto

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Created in 2015, Lefty is a platform that helps brands optimise their influence
marketing programs. Based on proprietary, state-of-the-art technology, Lefty
supports brands with influencer identification, management and reporting
of their influencer marketing campaigns. Discover more at lefty.io or contact
[email protected].

Founded in 1982, Karla Otto is a full-service brand-building agency, opera-

ting from thirteen cities across the globe. Karla Otto’s service is unparalleled.
Blending the best of fashion, beauty, design, lifestyle, and arts & culture, we
offer a panoramic view of opportunities and the ability to execute complex
ideas. Our loyal network and unrivalled approach to culture and community
enables us to take brands to brave new territories. Dicover more at karlaotto.
com or contact [email protected].

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 W O M E N ’ S FA S H I O N W E E K

Fendi show (via Bureau Betak)

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KEY DATA

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AW 23 SEASONAL DATA

Season Over Season EMV Evolution (IG), $ AW23 Total EMV, $

284M

233M

419M
126M
117M

75M

40M
20M
6M
Share of Voice AW23: 4 Cities
SS 23 AW 23
9.8%

PFW MFW NYFW LFW

5.2%

53.1%

AW23 EMV per Influencer Tier, $

+ Number of Influencers per Influencer Tier ( )
31.9%

Mega 16% 343M PFW MFW NYFW LFW

Top 44M 18%

Share of Voice: Weibo vs Instagram

26.2%
Macro 26M 26%

Micro 25M 40%

73.8%

Mega: +1M followers Macro: 100K - 300K followers

Top: 300K - 1M followers Micro: 10K - 100K followers Instagram Weibo

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AW 23 INFLUENCER DATA

Regional EMV Share (Instagram Only), $

Europe: 17M Asia:

62M

North
America:
46M
Asian influencers, primarily hailing from South Korea, dominated AW23
fashion weeks, securing top EMV rankings at $62M and leaving American,
European, and South American influencers in their wake. With a stagge-
South
America: ring difference, US influencers accumulated $46M in EMV, while their Eu-
7M ropean and South American counterparts trailed even further behind with
figures of $17M and $7M, respectively.

Share Influencers’ EMV by Category, % No. Influencers by Generation

— Number of Influencers by Category, $

Gen Z 37%

Musicians Actors Millenials 60%

60M — 40% 36M — 33%

Gen X 3%

Influencers Athletes
30M — 23% 2.5M — 3% In the realm of fashion, Gen Z is certainly making
waves. Yet, the Millennials continue to steer the
ship, with 60% of the top influencers posting con-
tent related to Fashion Weeks AW23 belonging to
this generation.

Model
2M — 3%
Analysis based on TOP 30 Influencers, they generated $130M EMV, accounting
for 56% of AW23 season’s EMV.

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EMV RANKING

TOP BRANDS

Saint Laurent show (via Spotlight)

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EMV RANKING

TOP BRANDS

30M

25M
MFW

2.6%

20M
PFW

2.3%
2.1%
2.4%

15M
EMV Ranking, $

1.9%
1.8%
10M
1.5%

5M

29M 28.5M 27.4M 25.4M 17.1M 14.6M 13.2M

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Saint Dior Louis Prada Chanel Gucci Dolce

Laurent Vuitton & Gabbana
Evolution*
Season to
Season
EMV

-32% -37% +63% +3% -3% +8% -4%

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*Seasonal % change based on Instagram only

**All pictures via Spotlight

3.5%

3%

2.5

Engagement Rate
2.4%
2.3%
2.2%

1.9%
2%

1.8% 1.8%
1.6% 1.5%

0.5%

13M 11.8M 10.4M 10.2M 10.2M 9.9M 9.4M

8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Loewe Valentino Givenchy Miu Miu Gcds Coperni Fendi

+6% -52% -1% +5% +352% -64% -68%

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Jisoo at Dior (via Getty)

EMV RANKING

TOP
INFLUENCERS

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EMV RANKING

TOP INFLUENCERS
Dua Lipa at Prada (via Getty)

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Influencers Nationality EMV Eng. Rate Brands

$10.2M
1 @roses_are_rosie
7.6%

$8.9M
2 @dualipa
3%

$8M
3 @sooyaaa__
11.7%

$7.6M
4 @jennierubyjane
10.2%

$7.6M
5 @miakhalifa
3.4%
+ 3 more.

$6.6M
6 @zendaya
3.9%

$6.4M
7 @madelyncline
22.2%

$6.2M
8 @kyliejenner
1.7%

$4.7M
9 @chiaraferragni
2.2%
+ 4 more.

$4.4M
10 @leejen_o_423
44.2%

Singer Actor Influencer

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CITY by CITY

Aya and Ami at Palm Angels (via Spotlight)

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CITY BY CITY

NEW YORK
Missing Brands Take a Bite out of the Big Apple
New York couldn’t quite live up to the spectacle of SS23.
Missing guest acts (Fendi and Marni) and regional he-
roes (Tom Ford and Tommy Hilfiger) caused the city’s
media value to plummet by 89%. On the heels of the me-
dia hype of Menswear and Haute Couture, the city fell
flat to a case of fashion week fatigue. “Every city usually
has a ‘moment’; yet New York felt a little more subdued
— even Julia Fox couldn’t cut through the noise,” com-
ments Annika Baer of Lefty.

Young Designers Step Into the Spotlight “Every city usually has
It’s not all bad news: missing names allowed young desig-
a ‘moment’; yet NY felt a little
ners to shine. Among them, Collina Strada ($1.1 EMV) saw
94% seasonal growth. At the same time, PatBO ($2.3M
more subdued - even Julia Fox
EMV) shot up the ranks with the help of Elizabeth Gillies, couldn’t cause a stir.”
who generated $1.46M in EMV for the Brazilian designer. Annika Baer, Lefty

New York Loves an It-Girl

From Chloe Sevigny walking for Proenza Schouler ($1M
EMV) to Lindsay Lohan’s return to the FROW, New York’s
designers aligned themselves with American icons and
it-girls. New to the circuit is rapper Ice Spice, who hel-
ped boost Coach’s ranking alongside a FROW of Gen
Z favorites such as Lil Nas X and TikTok icon Wisdom
Kayne. Coach’s repositioning from “accessible luxury” to
“expressive luxury” to court Gen Z customers is crystal
clear; the show generated $5.6M in EMV.
At the top of the page, Julia Fox. Above these lines, Collina Strada
(both pictures via Spotlight).

-89% -19% -23% +6.5%

EMV Seasonal Posts Influencers Engagement
Evolution

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Most Visible Brands EMV, $ Eng. Rate EMV Seasonal Evolution

Coach Thom Browne Michael Kors PatBO Tory Burch

5.6M 5.4M 4.9M 2.4M 2.1M

4.2% 1.7% 2% 1.6% 1.4%

+36% New to the Top 10 -12% New to the Top 10 -40%

Discover Your Brand’s Ranking & EMV: [email protected]

Top Influencers Actor Singer Model

Influencers Nationality IG Followers EMV Eng. Rate Brands

$2.9M
@johnnyjsuh 9.4M Thom Browne
10.6%

$2.4M
@dahhyuennee 7.6M Michael Kors
32%

$1.5M
@lizgillz 14.1M PatBO
5.2%

$1.3M
@icespice 5.8M Coach
38%

$1.3M Thom Browne

@wisdm 2.3M Heron Preston
18.3% Coach

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CITY BY CITY and Chet Lo ($498K), who have tallied a fanbase of Tik-

LONDON
Tokers and London influentials. Meanwhile, London pro-
ved the leading city for diversity and inclusion: Greek de-
signer Di Petsa’s premiere outing was centered around
motherhood, a theme also spotted at Sinead O’Dwyer,
who championed diversity, be it racial, body, ability, or
Fresh Starts and New otherwise.
Faces Define LFW

Art and Performance were Front and Centre

The power of ‘moment marketing’ drove virality. UK icon
Sir Ian McKellen opened the S.S. Daley show with poe-
try, boosting the brand’s seasonal EMV by +546%, while
Saul Nash presented compelling choreography to rave
Daniel Lee at Burberry. On the right, Sir Ian Mckellen reviews. Brands’ guest lists reflected the city’s artistic
at S.S. Daley (via Spotlight)
reputation: ballerinas, actors, and choreographers made
the front row, cementing London as a place for the arts.

Scale and Star Power

London is a Hub for New Talent and Diversity Many London designers made for a more intimate affair:
The anticipated re-set of Daniel Lee’s Burberry ($5.32M Roksanda, Emilia Wickstead, and Molly Goddard chose
EMV) and Moncler’s mega-scale event ($5.18M EMV), to show to select industry intel, reclaiming the commer-
helped boost London’s EMV and regain its groove with a cial purpose of the show. Other designers weighed in
total of $20.4M EMV — a 69% increase from last season. on star power: Burberry’s guest list was a who’s-who of
However, AW23 saw a notably younger brand ranking, Brit-pop culture, while celebrities such as Rico Nasty and
featuring designers such as Mowalowa ($2.48M EMV) Jorja Smith walked the runway at Mowalowa and Feben.

+69% +98% +78% +482%

EMV Seasonal Posts Influencers Engagement
Evolution

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Most Visible Brands EMV, $ Eng. Rate EMV Seasonal Evolution

Burberry Moncler Mowalola JW Anderson Dilara Findikoglu

5.3M 5.2M 2.5M 1.8M 950K

4.4% 2% 5.2% 1.4% 2.1%

+13.3% -5% New to the Top 10 -7% 234.7%

Discover Your Brand’s Ranking & EMV: [email protected]

Top Influencers Actor Singer Athlete Influencer

Influencers Nationality IG Followers EMV Eng. Rate Brands

$4M JW Anderson
@optimushwang 5.6M
15% Moncler

$2.8M
@bbrightvc 17.2M Burberry
8%

$2.5M
@hm_son7 11.5M Burberry
21.9%

JW Anderson
$1.1M PRONOUNCE
@declanchan 98K Moncler
17.4% ASAI
+ 5 more.

Chet Lo
$955K JW Anderson
@coileray 6.9M
2.5% Burberry
Mowalola

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 M E N ’ S FA S H I O N W E E K

Gucci and Tod’s (via Bureau Betak).

*Produced by Bureau Betak.

Style that Echoes the Times

Milan is renowned for its flamboyance, but commercia-
lism and timeless classics were front and center throu-
ghout AW23. “Minimalism seems to have come full circle;
CITY BY CITY designers in 2023 need to sell clothes over concept,”

MILAN
comments Karla Otto’s Head of Insight, Anna Ross. That
doesn’t mean Milan lacked in ‘moments’; take Diesel’s
($7M EMV) mountain of condoms or Sunnei’s ($450K
EMV) crowd-surfing collection. According to critics, the
hottest ticket in town, Bottega Veneta*, was perhaps the
“Minimalism seems to have most highly acclaimed show of the season. However, the
come full circle; designers in brand’s lack of social media presence means the media
message doesn’t carry to the masses.
2023 need to sell clothes over
concept.” China’s KOLs Return to the Circuit
Anna Ross, Karla Otto while K-Pop Continues to Drive Buzz
With travel restrictions relaxed, leading Chinese KOLs were
back on Milanese soil, and their presence across Weibo
Milan remains stable, with a slight flux of +7% EMV. Most drove significant value. Actor and former C-Pop star Xiao
of brands grew except Fendi (-68%) and Dolce & Gabba- Zhan delivered an estimated $9.3M EMV for Tod’s and
na (-4%), whose SS23 ‘Ciao Kim’ collaboration with Kim Gucci, while Cai Xukun drew in crowds at Prada, gene-
Kardashian overshone AW23. Gcds (+352%), Ferragamo rating $2.2M in EMV.
(+100%), and Tod’s (+212%) saw the most significant le- Meanwhile, several leading brands welcomed K-Pop
aps, aided by K-Pop stars, Dua Lipa, fashion’s breakout stars into the FROW; Lee Jeno’s presence at Ferragamo
influencer Mia Khalifa and Chinese influencers such as saw some of the highest engagement at 40.3%, while
Cai Xukun and Xiao Zhun. former K-Pop-turned-actress Joy was spotted at Tod’s.

+7% +6% -7% +25.4%

EMV Seasonal Posts Influencers Engagement
Evolution

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Most Visible Brands EMV, $ Eng. Rate EMV Seasonal Evolution

Prada Gucci Dolce & Gabbana Gcds Fendi

25.4M 14.6M 13.2M 10.2M 9.4M

1.8% 2.3% 1.5% 2.4% 1.9%

+3% +8% -4% +352% -68%

Discover Your Brand’s Ranking & EMV: [email protected]

Top Influencers Singer/ Musician Influencer Actor

Influencers Nationality IG Followers EMV Eng. Rate Brands

$7.3M Prada
@dualipa 87.7M
4.2% Gcds

$4.7M Gcds
@miakhalifa 27.6M Diesel
3.4% Moschino

$4.4M
@leejen_o_423 5.2M Ferragamo
44%

$4.3M
@_imyour_joy 14.4M Tod’s
4.1%

$3.8M
@songkang_b 15.4M Prada
13%

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 CITY BY CITY

PARIS
From Masters of Craft
to Media Buzz, Paris was
a City of Two Tales

K-Pop Stars Disrupt the Ranking

Despite Paris generating the most significant media
value ($232.7M), the city’s Instagram EMV fell by -22%
compared to SS23. Much of this can be attributed to the
K-Pop Group BLACKPINK posting less frequently for key
brands such as Dior and Saint Laurent. Between them,
Rosé and Jisoo slashed $28M of EMV off Paris’s overall
media value compared to September.

Chinese Influencers Take Over Paris

However, like Milan, Paris saw the return of Chinese
KOLs. The top 10 influencers who went to the shows
Saint Laurent (via Bureau Betak) drove $49 million in EMV across Weibo and Instagram,
almost as significant as the global EMV output from this
season.

Polarised Paris: The Masters vs. Media Buzz The Curious Case of Coperni & Kylie
Paris proved to be a city of opposing ideas. On the Despite being absent throughout Paris, Coperni worked
one hand, designers honed in on commercialism, buil- alongside Kylie Jenner with a series of promotional posts
ding wardrobes with a ‘buy less, buy better’ mentality. claiming to be ‘backstage’. The influencer managed to
On the other, brands leaned in on media buzz, vying generate a significant $6.3M EMV by promoting the new
for the ‘next Coperni’ moment with extravagant set de- collection, marking a new marketing trend of brands
sign, performance, and even a man on fire. The thea- working with influencers with campaigns that align with
tre of fashion week didn’t stop with the shows; on the the show season.
final day of fashion week, performance artist Tommy
Cash appeared at Y/Project, generating $224K in EMV.

-22% +24% 11% -1.1%

EMV Seasonal Posts Influencers Engagement
Evolution

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Most Visible Brands EMV, $ Eng. Rate EMV Seasonal Evolution

Saint Laurent Dior Louis Vuitton Chanel Loewe

29M 28.5M 27.4M 17.1M 13M

2.4% 2.6% 1.9% 2.1% 2.2%

-32% -37% +63% -32% +6%

Discover Your Brand’s Ranking & EMV: [email protected]

Top Influencers Singer/ Musician Influencer Actor

Influencers Nationality IG Followers EMV Eng. Rate Brands

$10.2M
@roses_are_rosie 68.6M Saint Laurent
7.6%

$8M
@sooyaaa__ 70.2M Dior
11.7%

$7.6M
@jennierubyjane 75.8 Chanel
10.2%

$6.6M
@zendaya 171M Louis Vuitton
3.9%

$6.2M
@kyliejenner 381M Coperni
1.7%

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 W O M E N ’ S FA S H I O N W E E K

KEY INSIGHTS

Ferragamo (via Bureau Betak)

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KEY INSIGHTS

The MEDIA
SHUFFLE
2009 & The Dawn of Influence
In 2009, an image from the FROW emerged picturing Br-
yanboy, Tommy Ton, Garance Doré, and Scott Schuman
with laptops in hand to cover the brands’ shows live. The
image sent ripples through the fashion ecosystem as
editors were ousted from their front-row seats in favour
of these new power players and their hyper-engaged
online audiences. An excerpt from the New York Times
circa ‘09 by Eric Wilson reads: “…After all, what is one to
think — besides a publicity stunt — when Bryan Boy is
seated at the Dolce & Gabbana show in Milan between
Vogue and Vanity Fair, a mere two positions to the right
of Anna Wintour?” he writes.

@bryanboy and
Anna Wintour at
Dolce & Gabbana circa
2009 (via The New
York Times)

way. The sheer audacity to join the platforms that built

“influencers” in the first place and create and post the
same kind of content.” he proclaimed in a social media
The Influencer Becomes The Editor post in response to the backlash.
Fast forward over a decade, and that very Bryan Yambao
(@bryanboy) is the Editor in Chief of The Perfect Maga- Editorial in the Age of Social
zine and was sat front and centre inside what was du- Most notably, in New York, there appeared to be a swing
bbed Gucci’s ‘Influencer Pit’ by the press, which seemed in the pendulum, as editors leaned in like never before to
to re-fuel the decade-old discussion of influencer vs. the impact of digitalisation: “Editors are remaking short-
editor. “As communicators, we are here to cheerlead the form video content their image,” shares Karla Otto’s Vale-
industry — communicate and interpret fashion in our own rio Farris. “Look at Mel Ottenberg at Interview Magazine,

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 @susiebubble
$266K EMV
@bryanboy
$123K EMV

@stylenotcom
$721K EMV

On the right, @bryanboy, @susiebu-

bble and other influencers at Gucci
(via Getty). Above these lines, @
stylenotcom (via Spotlight)

A New Era of Media Personnel pace and opinion front and centre. Beka Gvishiani’s Style-
NotCom is a key name to know, who this season added
significant value both on the FROW and with the publica-
who’s become the master of quippy backstage clips, or tion of his first book. His 222 posts created over $700K in
Liana Satenstein, who’s updated the front row fashion in- EMV, making him the 9th most impactful media personality
terview for the TikTok era, even interviewing Anna Win- in AW23. Meanwhile, Hanan Besovic, the face of @ideser-
tour backstage at Tory Burch,” he states. vecouture, was central throughout the season, describing
himself as “a fashion devotee who loves to read opinions.”
Fashion’s New Insiders Brands such as Carolina Herrera worked with the perso-
As platforms such as TikTok re-frame how we consume nality to drive value for the brand and further cement his
media, a new era of personalities emerges with quick-fire status as a new name in the media circle.

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 W O M E N ’ S FA S H I O N W E E K

KEY INSIGHTS

The POWER
of POP CULTURE

@haleyluhoo and @thealexisstone at Diesel (via Getty)

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 ROUNDUP AUTUMN/WINTER 23

Jennifer Coolidge is The Moment

Throughout Menswear, we noted the uptick of brands
aligning with stars from leading TV series, dubbing the
trend ‘The Entertainment Economy.’ Showcasing the im-
pact entertainment as on fashion and pop-culture, one
star that made an impact (without even being there) was
The White Lotus’s Jennifer Coolidge. So much so, makeup
artist Alexis Stone underwent a dramatic transformation @thealexissstone
$120K EMV
to imitate Coolidge, in one of Milan’s most hyped mo-
ments, which generated a total of $120K EMV for Diesel.

Rihanna & Fenty Beauty

Although not in attendance, the impact of Rihanna was
omnipresent. In Milan, the press was left drawing compa-
risons between a model applying makeup at the Giorgio
Armani show ($840K EMV) to the singer’s Fenty Beauty
product promotion at the Superbowl. Speaking of, Rihan-
na’s marketing team was in action throughout Paris with
an OOH guerilla-esque activation, pulling up outside key
shows with a makeup stand to promote their products —
a bold move, but one that leverages the power of tapping
into a key moment in a core market.
Looks from Di Petsa (on
Avril Lavigne & Tyga the left), Giorgio Armani (above)
(via Spotlight.
Perhaps the most unexpected romance to blossom from
fashion week, Avril Lavigne and Tyga were a mainstay on
the FROW in Paris. Between them, the two generated
$2.32M EMV with Avril posting content for Elie Saab, Ste-
lla McCartney, and Louboutin (a combined $621K EMV),
and Tyga posting for Givenchy, and Y/ Project in Paris,
(creating $1.7M EMV.) Avril Lavigne is due to go on tour
in April, so media appearances are a win-win for both the

$621K EMV
brands and Lavigne.
@avrillavigne

Lisa Rinna Stars in Her Own

Fashion Week Spin Off
Real Housewives star Lisa Rinna was a frequent face
throughout the season, so much so that Vogue France
published an article titled “Is Lisa Rinna on her Way to
Becoming a Fashion Icon?” For Womenswear AW23, the
reality star attended twelve shows, generating $1.3M in
EMV. Now she’s moved away from the Real Housewives,
it seems Rinna is starring in her very own solo-spin-off @tyga
$1.7M EMV
alongside daughter and top-model Amelia Gray.

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 W O M E N ’ S FA S H I O N W E E K

The SHOW
KEY INSIGHTS

as a SPECTACLE
“The moment has to strike
a chord with both the brand’s
DNA and its audiences’ values
to drive impact.”
Anna Ross, Karla Otto

With a bid to break through and become the ‘next Co-

perni’, the race for the biggest ‘moment’ is clearly on
many designers’ minds. “Striking the balance between
gimmick and game-changing is delicate, but when exe-
cuted correctly, ‘moment-marketing’ can drive brand
awareness from ‘up-and-coming’ to international recog-
nition while boosting revenue,” comments Ross. Indeed,
Coperni’s spray-on dress reportedly drove significant explains Ross; “Saul Nash was a brilliant example of lin-
traffic to their website, resulting in sell-out success that king performance back to purpose and poignant storyte-
forced the brand to remodel its direct-to-consumer mo- lling,” she adds. Nash’s choreographed runway spoke to
del to cope with demand. It’s hard to compete with such the designer’s background and high-function activewear
a viral moment. Whereas Coperni still sat within the Top but to the more significant issue of diversity and inclu-
15 brands of the AW23 season, their EMV dropped by sion across winter sports. Meanwhile, Collina Strada’s
-67% seasonally. collaboration with makeup icon Isamaya French saw the
“The moment has to strike a chord with both the most prominent growth throughout NYFW.
brand’s DNA and its audiences’ values to drive impact,” All pictures via Instagram and Spotlight.

34
 ROUNDUP AUTUMN/WINTER 23

@stellamccartney

@coperni $9.9M EMV -64% $6.7M EMV +594%

@moncler $5.2M EMV -5% @louboutinworld $3.1M EMV

@anrealage

@heliotemil $2.1M EMV +126% $1.4M EMV +6278%

@ss_daley

$100K EMV +546% @saul.nash $70K EMV

35
KEY INSIGHTS

CHINA
RETURNS
to the
CIRCUIT

Find more Chinese Markets Insights by contacting [email protected]

Market Insights
Due to the pandemic's prolonged impact, China's luxury market saw
a contraction for the first time in five years between 2021-22 of -10%
(according to Bain & Company). However, with travel bans lifted and
retail reopened in the region, steady growth is on the horizon, espe-
cially as luxury goods spending in the US and EU stagnates. Accor-
ding to Bernstein, the overall luxury market in China is set to grow by
13% in 2023, presenting an opportunity for brands to work alongside
KOLs in the space, especially across native platforms such as Weibo.

Influencer Insights
"Whereas China used to be the leading market for luxury, the
effects of the pandemic saw brands focus on other growing mar-
kets such as South Korea, Thailand, Japan, and Vietnam," explains
Lea Mao, Marketing Manager for Lefty, APAC. "As a result, brands
At the top of the page, Liu Yuxin at Dior.
activated influencers across these regions throughout fashion Below, Chris Lee and Xiao Zhan at Gucci (via Getty).
weeks - hence the K-Pop boom." However, with travel restrictions
lifted in January, Chinese celebrities, editors, and buyers were back
on the fashion week circuit for the first time in three years. Nota-
ble returns included actress BingBing Fan, who is in the process

36
 ROUNDUP AUTUMN/WINTER 23

“Whereas China used to be a week, while musician Cai Xukun created $1.37M EMV
across Instagram and $2.2M EMV on Weibo," she notes.
the leading market for luxury,
Weibo remains the most popular platform for Chinese
the effects of the pandemic KOLs: the top 10 Chinese influencers who went to the
saw brands focus on other show drove $49 million in EMV across Weibo and Ins-
growing markets.” tagram, almost as significant as the global EMV output
from this season.
Lea Mao, Lefty

of re-molding her image on the European scene, appea-

ring next to Anna Wintour at Giambattista Valli. In Mi-
lan, Gucci's brand ambassador Chris Lee and Actor Xiao
Zhan caused hype outisde the show - with fans waiting
outside with banners proclaiming their love for the stars.

Weibo vs. Instagram

"Chinese Influencers are ambitiously building their image
overseas," states Mao, "Xiao Zhan created an Instagram
In the picture, François-Henri Pinault, Anna Wintour and Fan Bing-
during Milan Fashion Week and gained 463K followers in bing at Giambattista Valli (all via Getty).

Top Influencers
Top 10 Chinese KOL vs Global
Influencers EMV, $ IG Weibo PFW MFW Brands

Top 10 Global KOLs EMV, $

693K
Liu Yuxin Dior
23.6M

75M Xiao Zhan 9.3M

Gucci
Tod’s

1.4M
Cai Xukun Prada
2.2M

Top 10 Chinese KOLs EMV, $

Chanel, Miu
Liu Wen $2.6M Miu, Loewe
and 7 more.

49M $2.1M
Liu Yifei Louis Vuitton
291K

Actor Singer Model

37
 W O M E N ’ S FA S H I O N W E E K

KEY INSIGHTS

K-POP & THAI DRAMA

go HEAD-to-HEAD
K-Pop Stars generated $56M in EMV.

Key Insights: The Power of K-Pop

Brands continue to align with K-Pop stars, who generated
$56M of the season’s overall EMV. Blackpink members, Ji-
soo, Lisa and Rosé continue to dominate the leaderboard
with their brand ambassadorships; however, a notable di-
fference was seen in the number of posts they generated
per profile, which caused Paris's EMV to decline.

The New Names to Know

As bands such as BLACKPINK become commonplace,
new names emerge on the scene. Confirming our call
out as one-to-watch in our Power of K-Pop report, girl
group NEWJEANS, (signed by the same label as Blac-
kpink, Hybe Corporation), were spotted throughout the
season, working alongside several leading brands such
as Gucci and Louis Vuitton. To note, they still operate
from their band handle (@newjeans_official), rather than
individual accounts, and one group member remains un-
signed, presenting a key opportunity for luxury brands.

NewJeans Are the Next Blackpink (Brand Ambassor Contract Debut)

Gucci x Hanni* LV x Hyein Burberry x Danielle Chanel x Minji Haerin

October, 2022 December, 2022 January, 2023 February, 2023 Still to be signed

*Hanni generated $1.94M EMV in AW23 season for Gucci.

38
 ROUNDUP AUTUMN/WINTER 23

Thai-Drama Draws Buzz

According to data from Trip.com, China’s travel restrictions easing in January
caused an uptick of 864% YoY bookings to areas of South East Asia (ASEAN),
showcasing that Chinese tourists are flying more locally in the interim, as
restrictions lift. As a result, this presents an opportunity for luxury brands to
engage in ASEAN markets to capture Chinese tourism footfall. Areas such as
Thailand boast particular interest; the region’s luxury market is set to grow by
5.61% CAGR by 2028.

Thai actors boast engagement rates

and followings similar to K-Pop stars
and cause just as much drama outside
of the shows.

“Brands are tapping into Thailand’s luxury opportunity

through these super popular T-Drama stars,” states An-
nika Bear of Lefty, a movement that Lefty x Karla Otto
first called out in 2022; “Lefty’s data shows that these
profiles’ audiences are made up of over 70% Thai fo-
llowers,” she adds. However, Thai-Drama has become
viral thanks to global streaming services bringing the ca-
tegory to a worldwide audience. Thai actors boast enga-
gement rates and followings similar to K-Pop stars and
cause just as much drama outside of the shows.
Bright picture via Getty. The rest, via Instagram.

Here are the names to know now from the AW23 season (AW 23 EMV, $):

Dior x @kimmy_kimberley LV x @urassayas Burberry x @bbrightvc Fendi x @bellacampen

1.1M 1.9M 1.4M 483K

Discover the Next K-Wave Names by contacting Karla Otto Seoul Further Reading: Download Fashion: A Year in Data 2022

39
 W O M E N ’ S FA S H I O N W E E K

T H E I N T E RV I E W

The RISE of
MIA KHALIFA
Profile Information
Called out as our Emerging Influen-
cer of 2022, Mia Khalifa continues
to seriously impact Fashion Month,
creating $7.6M in EMV throughout
AW23 posting for six brands, placing
her 5th in the ranking, overtaking
the likes of Kylie Jenner and Zenda-
ya. Now in her third season, Khalifa’s
journey is only getting started. We
catch up with the star fresh off the
back of Paris Fashion Week:
Mia Khalifa at Acne Studios show (via Getty).

EMV ($) generated for

the attended shows

Gcds 1.5M
27.6M Diesel 936K
IG Followers Moschino 2.54M
4.6% Acne Studios 1M
Eng. Rate
962K
$7.6M
Heliot Emil

AW 23 EMV Off-White 604K

40
 ROUNDUP AUTUMN/WINTER 23

Q: What’s your journey What do you see as the role of social

into fashion been like? media in the fashion season?

A: It’s been surreal. I’ve loved fashion Every industry has to move with so-
ever since I was a child; my mom, ciety — you have to open the gates.
sister, and I would pour over runway Especially with platforms like TikTok
images on Vogue — and now I’m there. - you cannot ignore a person who has
Sitting at the shows; to hear it, expe- millions of people who find that person
rience the set, see the clothes up close influential. TikTok became my favourite
is so exhilarating — the energy and app because of the communities and
experience are incredible. subcultures there...

What do you think it is about your Favourite TikTok account?

content that’s resonating with your
community?
Ryanair! They’re a great example
of how to play to your brand identity.
I’m not sponsored to go to the shows; I love them!
the brands I work with are hand-pic-
ked because I love what they do. As a
result, I think the content I post is au- What resonates with you, brand-wise?
thentic, and my audience can see that.
They get to see me genuinely shriek
with joy over moments like Heliot Emil’s There’s gotta be grit; there’s gotta be heart.
man-on-fire or Off-White’s (in the I love young designers for that reason;
picture) incredible set — I’m genuinely there’s this genuine passion, and it’s so im-
having fun, and I think that shows. pressive to see what they can do with the
resources they have. As someone building
a brand myself, I find that inspiring.

Mia Khalifa at Off-White show (via Instagram).

41
 W O M E N ’ S FA S H I O N W E E K

ONES to WATCH

Miu Miu (via Spotlight)

42
 ROUNDUP AUTUMN/WINTER 23

43
 W O M E N ’ S FA S H I O N W E E K

ONES to WATCH
Fastest Growing Designers

@stellamccartney

$6.7M EMV +594%

Stella McCartney’s show came complete with
a backdrop of horses which caused a flurry of
social media moments. Additionally, new at-
tendees @madelyncline and @madisonbailey-
babe drove significant EMV for the brand.

@ferragamo

$7.6M EMV +101%

Young designer Maximilian Davis continues to
reinvent this heritage brand, hitting the top 15
ranking for AW23. South Korean rapper @tiny.
pretty.j generated $2.41M of the brand’s EMV.

@louisvuitton

$27.4M EMV +63%

Louis Vuitton saw significant growth this sea-
son, aided by a new ambassador on the FROW,
Zendaya, who’s appearance generated $6.6M
in EMV, tapping into the strength of The Enter-
tainment Economy.

@diesel $7M EMV +40%

Diesel’s large-scale event went instantly viral on
day one of MFW, with the iconic Jennifer Coo-
lidge moment by Alexi Stone. Meanwhile, Mia
Khalifa generated $936K EMV for the brand.

Further Reading: Download Roundup Men’s Fashion Week AW 23

44
 ROUNDUP AUTUMN/WINTER 23

Influencers: Emerging Trends

@watanabenaomi703 @bennydrama7

$636K EMV $13.8K EMV

Comedians: Fashion shows its sense of humour with a

welcoming of comedians to the FROWS, showcasing the
extension of an industry akin with entertainment.

@tikatheiggy $106K EMV

Dogfluencers: The pet market is a burgeoning industry for

fashion, and we’ve seen an uptick in dogs making guest
appearances at shows.

@hm_son7 @rayssalealsk8

$2.8M EMV $475K EMV

Sports: From footballers to ice dancers and karate cham-
pions, sports stars were key to AW23 guest lists. Aligning
with sports stars not only taps into these profiles’ com-
munities but creates an opportunity for collaboration.

Regions to Watch

@deepikapadukone @priyankachopra

$1.22M EMV $1.1M EMV

India is becoming a market to watch, with spending on lu-
xury goods expected to boom from $8Bn to almost $30Bn
by 2030. A rapid improvement in the country’s digital in-
frastructure has made India one of the most dominant
global social media users, presenting an opportunity for
brands to market across this region.

@camilacoelho @isabela

$1.89M EMV $5.51M EMV

Brazil is one of the largest regions for luxury goods in

Latin America and boasts rising levels of wealth. Knight
Frank expects Brazillian millionaires to increase by 30%
by 2026, making the region a key growth opportunity for
the luxury sector.

45
 W O M E N ’ S FA S H I O N W E E K

EMV RANKING

TOP 50 BRANDS

Thom Browne (via Spotlight)

46
 ROUNDUP AUTUMN/WINTER 23

47
 W O M E N ’ S FA S H I O N W E E K

EMV RANKING

1. Saint Laurent 29M

2. Dior 28.5M

3. Louis Vuitton 27.4M

4. Prada 25.4M

5. Chanel 17.1M

6. Gucci 14.6M

7. Dolce Gabbana 13.2M

8. Loewe 13M

9. Valentino 11.9M

10. Givenchy 10.4M

11. Miu Miu 10.2M

12. Gcds 10.2M

13. Coperni 9.9M

14. Fendi 9.4M

15. Ferragamo 7.6M

16. Tod’s 7.3M

17. Off-White 7.2M

18. Diesel 7M

19. Stella Mccartney 6.7M

20. Moschino 6.6M

21. Coach 5.6M

22. Thom Browne 5.4M

23. Burberry 5.3M

24. Victoria Beckham 5.3M

Zegna show (Spotlight)

25. Moncler 5.2M

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 ROUNDUP AUTUMN/WINTER 23

TO P 5 0 B R A N D S , $ NYFW LFW MFW PFW

26. Balmain 5.1M

27. Balenciaga 5.1M

28. Acne Studios 5.1M

29. Michael Kors 4.9M

30. Giorgio Armani 4.7M

31. Giambattista Valli 4.1M

32. Louboutin 3.1M

33. Hermes 3.0M

34. Vivienne Westwood 2.9M

35. Alexander McQueen 2.7M

36. Mm6 Maison Margiela 2.5M

37. Mowalola 2.5M

38. PatBO 2.4M

39. Bally 2.3M

40. Lanvin 2.2M

41. Heliot Emil 2.1M

42. Tory Burch 2.1M

43. Christian Siriano 2.1M

44. Y/Project 2M

45. Etro 2M

46. Max Mara 1.9M

47. Chloé 1.9M

48. Isabel Marant 1.9M

49. JW Anderson 1.8M

Victoria Beckham (via Bureau Betak)
50. Elie Saab 1.8M

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 W O M E N ’ S FA S H I O N W E E K

50
 ROUNDUP AUTUMN/WINTER 23

EMV RANKING

TOP 30
INFLUENCERS

Zendaya at Louis Vuitton (via Spotlight)

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 W O M E N ’ S FA S H I O N W E E K

E M V R A N K I N G TO P 30 I N F L U E N C E R S , $

1. @roses_are_rosie 10.2M 16. @kimkardashian 3.4M

2. @dualipa 8.9M 17. @madelame 3.3M

3. @sooyaaa__ 8M 18. @florencepugh 3.3M

4. @jennierubyjane 7.6M 19. @johnnyjsuh 2.9M

5. @miakhalifa 7.6M 20. @bbrightvc 2.8M

6. @zendaya 6.6M 21. @charlidamelio 2.7M

7. @madelyncline 6.4M 22. @antonelaroccuzzo 2.6M

8. @kyliejenner 6.2M 23. @hm_son7 2.5M

9. @chiaraferragni 4.7M 24. @nmixx_official 2.4M

10. @leejen_o_423 4.4M 25. @tiny.pretty.j 2.4M

11. @_imyour_ joy 4.3M 26. @dahhyunnee 2.4M

12. @madisonbaileybabe 4.1M 27. @iamhalsey 2.3M

13. @marinaruybarbosa 4M 28. @dk_is_dokyeom 2.3M

14. @optimushwang 4M 29. @m_kayoung 2.1M

15. @songkang_b 3.8M 30. @urassayas 2M

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