Kenmore 385.1584180 Sewing Machine Instruction Manual

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OWNER'S MANUAL
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: SEWING MACHINE
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MODEL 385. 1584180

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All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Dear Customer:
You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine,
please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate
and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are glven on threading, tension adiustments0 cleaning, oiting, etc. This will help you
obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.
Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store.
Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention
the model number and serial number when you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record m space provided below the model number and seriai

number of this appliance. The modei number and serta! number
are Located on the nomenclature prate, as identified on Page 3 of
this booklet.
Model No. 385, Serial No.

Retain these numbers for future reference.
THIS MODEL tS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE,

TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION I. KNOW YOUR MACHINE o Turn a Square Corner ...................... 27

A Portable case or Cabinet is Available ............. 2
o Use the Darning Plate .................... 28
o Topstitchmg ............................ 28
Locate and Identify the parts .................. 2_3
Darning ............................... 29
Indentify the Accessories .......................... 4
Straight Stretch ............................. 29
Zigzag Stitches .................... 30_37
SECTION 2, PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
• Basic Zigzag ............................. 30
Set Up the Machine ......................... 5_9 o Satin Stitch ......................... 31
o Plut in the machine and Switch on the Power ......... 5 o Applique ............................. 32
o Foot Control Use ....................... 5
o Bar Tacking ......................... 32
o Set the Pressure Dial ..................... 6
o Monogramming ......................... 33
o Setting Spool Pins .................... 7 o Embroidery ........................... 33
o Adiust the Presser Foot Lever .................. 7 o Sew a Button ............................ 34
- Thread Cutter ............................ 7 o Overcasting Stitch ....................... 35
a Accessory Storage Box ...................... 8 o Rick-Rack Stretch ....................... 35
o Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table 8_9 e Three-Step Zigzag ....................... 36
Know What the Presser Feet Will Do .......... 10_12
o Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... 37
o Check Your Presser Foot ..................... 10 e Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............ 37
Change the Presser Foot .................... 10 Blind Hemming ............................ 38
o Presser Foot Types ..................... 11_12 Lace Work ................................. 39
Choose Your Needle and Thread .............. 13_t4 Buttonhole Making ........................ 40"_41
o Check Your Needle ......................... t3 Sew in a Zipper ........................ 42"43
o Fabrtc, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart .... 14 Shell Stitching ............................. 44
o To Change Your Needle ..................... 14 Two-Point Shell Stitching ..................... 44
Prepare the Bobbin .......................... 15_16 Smocking ................................. 45
6 To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine ........ 15 Stretch Patching ............................ 45
a Wind the Bobbin ....................... 15 Fagoting Stitch ............................ 46
e Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder ......... 16 Herring Bone Stretch ........................ 46
Prepare Your Top Thread .................. 17"20 Elastic Stretch Stitch ......................... 47
o Thread Your Needle ......................... 17 Box Stitching .............................. 47
o Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ................. 18
o Adjust the Top Thread Tension .............. 19_20 SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
Stitch Selector ............................. 20
Stitch Width Control ........................ 21
What to Do When ......................... 48"--49
Stitch Length Control ...................... 21
SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................ 21
Reverse Stitch Control ................... 22 Replace the Light Bulb ....................... 50
Starting To Sew ............................. 22 Clean the Bobbin Holder ...................... 50
Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs ............. 51
SECTION 3° LEARN THE STITCHES Oiling the Machines .......................... 51
Practica] Stitch Chart ...................... 23"_26 PARTS LIST ...................................... 52_53

Straight Stitches .......................... 27_29
o Straight Stitch ........................... 27 INDEX ............................................ 54_55
a Use the Seam Gutdes ...................... 27
: ::locate: anaiiaentify: ttle Parts:: i
A fuN-line of sewing cabinets is available at your

nearest Sears retail store or through our general
catalog.
Another option • , _ buy a Carrying Case . _ , then
Thread Spool Pins
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any-
where. Bobbin Winding Spindle
Upper Thread Guide
Take-up Lever
Top Thread Tension

Control
Width Control
Face Cover Piate

Stitch Length Control
Thread Cutter
Needie Plate
Reverse Stitch Con trol
\
J
\\
\
\
\ Extension Tabte
\,\ (Accessory storage box)
2
Carrying Handle
Arm Cover Plate
\ /
\ i
\ !/
Hand Wheel Presser Foot ,.
Push*Pull Clutch
Stitch Selector /_
Snap-on Button
Stretch Stitch Adiuster .t .JSll

Free Arm
L_ght and .j
Power Sw_tch _-, Foot Control
Plug Connector -., Nomenclature Plate

m
Bobbin Buttonhole
.co
opener Needle set Lint brush
es
Darning plate Small screw drwer
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Large screw driver Spool pin teft

\
J
Zipper foot Stra3ght
-g
stitch foot
--% Sliding
buttonhole toot /
/"
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Set Up the Machine

Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power o Foot Control Use
Power supply plug
Power
swlIch
\
Fool c/ontro!
Sewmg ligh!
Power swltch %
J
4. Push the light and power switch to turn The foot control regulates the speed at
PIug
connector on the power and sewing light. which you sew.
Machine
To increase speed, gently press down with
plug
SAFETY FEATUR E: the ball of your toot.
Your machine wil! not operate unless the
NOTE. Before inserting the plug into your To decrease speed, release your foot pres-
lighttpower switch is turned on. If you are
machine, be sure the power sw_tch is sure slightly,
interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
OFF
light/power switch to prevent injury to NOTE: The foot control is sensitive and
children.
I, Check your outlet to be sureitis a 110to !20 win increase or decrease your
Volt AC outlet. sewing speed immediately.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to
2, Insert the machine plug into the three-prong
regulate your sewmg speed to
outlet, as shown. It will only fit one way.
your taste and needs,
3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.
SetUp the MaChine:i:I(Continued)

= Set the Pressure Dial
f
Groove
Pressure
control
dial Setting
mark
The pressure control dial is located inside the face cover plate.
Set the dial aligning the setting marl{ on the dial with the groove as follows.
3 ..... most sewing

2 ..... applique and Cut-Outwork
1 ..... basting, sewing chiffon, lace, organdy and other lightweight fabrics.
Also for velours and knits (with more stretch).
NOTE: The pressure dial should be reset at 3 after changing pressure, so

the machine is ready for most normal sewing the next time you use
it.
o Setting Spool Pins o Adjust the Presser Foot Lever = Thread Cutter
f
Spool pln felt-_._O
Spool pin
Normal up _--
Tuh[rteeard
pos_llon l
Hi l,\i ( positron
"'- Presser toot

lever
The spool pins are used for holding the You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the
spools of thread in order to feed thread to thread after you finish sewing. Just use the
the machine. handy thread cutter.
To use, pull up the spool pros. Place the The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your The threads are cut the proper length for
spool felt on the pros. Push down for presse r foot. starttng the next seam.
storage. You can raise it about 1/4" higher than the normal
up position for easy removal of the presser foot or
to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser
foot
7
= Accessory Storage Box o Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table

Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing.
To remove:
This feature makes sewing easy for:
To Remove the Extension TabLe

(for free-arm sewing)
1. Grip the table with your index finger and thumb,

The lid of the accessory storage box lifts as shown.
open toward you,
2_ Pull gently toward you,
J
Sewing accessories are conveniently located The extension table will snap out.
Bar tacking to reinforce pockets, plackets
m the box,
To Attach: and waistlines on ready-made or home-
made garments to avoid fabric bunching
Extension table around the needle.
To Attach the Extension TabJe

(for flat-bed sewing)
t. Fit the tabs into the slot, as shown.
2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.
8
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* Stitchingsleeves,
wmstbands,
pant_egs, Darning socks or mending knees, e_bows, * Sawing buttons on sleeves, waistbands,
oranycirculargarment
area. or areas of wear in children's clothes. etc.
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;i::iKnow What the Presser Feet Will Do

o Check Your Presser Foot o Change the Presser Foot
The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine, You need to know Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew. Consult the
what each foot does in order to use them effectively. Stitch Pattern Chart and the detailed directions for sewing with the various
Your presser foot is held in place by a Foot Holder, Each presser foot merely presser feet.
snaps on the foot holder, which is seldom removed.
tf you need to remove or attach the foot holder, here is what you do:
To Remove: To Attach: To Snap Off:

f
Snap-on
button
\
k__.
holder
screw
, J
To Remove: To Attach: To Snap Off the Presser Foot:

Turn the screw toward the back of 1. Match the hole in the foot 1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel
the machine. Use the large screw holder with the threaded hole in toward you.
driver. the presser bar.
2, Raise the presser foot.
2. Fit the foot holder screw into
3. Press the snap-on button on the back of the foot holder. The presser
the hole.
foot will drop off.
3. Tighten the screw by turning it
toward you.
10
• Presser Foot Types
Zigzag Foot Strmght Foot

f
A: Zigzag toot
H: Straight toot
Use this foot for both straight and zigzag Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching
stitching. using center needle position only.
Uses: Zigzag stitching (see page 3_0), Uses: Straight stitching (see page 2__7),
Bar tacking (see page 32), Topstitching {see page 2_88),
Button sewing (see page 3_44), Straight stretch (see page 29).
Overcasting stitch (see page 3__5),
Rick-rack stretch (see page 35),
Three-step zigzag {see page 36),
To Snap On the Presser Foot:
Serging (see page 37),
t. Place the presser foot so the hori-
Overcast stretch (see page 3__7),
zontal pin on the foot lies iust
Blind hemming (see page 38),
under the groove of the foot Lace work (see page 40),
holder,
Two-point shell stitching
2. Lower the presser foot holder to (see page 44),
lock the presser foot in place. Smocking (see page 455),
Stretch patching (see page 45__),
NOTE: If you do not hear the Fagoting (see page 46),
presser foot snap m place, Herring bone stretch (see page 4_6),
press down on the presser Elastic stretch (see page 47),
foot holder firmly until you Box stitching (see page 47).
hear the snap.
1
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_/:KnowWilatthe Preset Feet Will: Do (Continued)
o Presser Foot Types (Continued)
Sliding ButtonhoJe Foot Zipper Foot Satin Stitch Foot

(-
Sliding buttonhole toot E: Zipper foot F: Satin stitch foot
_ J
Use this foot for buttonholes of built in This foot can be set to sew on each side of Use this transparent foot for satin stitch and
system, It is marked to measure your your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the outlining applique,
buttonholes accurately. zipper and keep the seam straight. Usesz Satin stitch (see page 31),
Uses: Buttonhole making (see page 40). Uses: Zipper application {see page 4_2_2), Applique (see page 32),
Monogramming (see page 33),
Shell stitching (see page 43).
12
_,_----dfm===_
,M--,
_t ......
Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing.
In your needle case, you will find the following color-coded needles:
Blue {11) .......... for stretch fabrics

Orange {11) .......... for lightweight fabrics
Red {14) ........... for medium or medium-heavy weight tabrics
Purple (16) ......... for medium-heavy weight and decorative
topstitchmg on these fabrics
(This needle has a larger thread hole for
thicker topstltching thread,)
Green {18) .......... for heavy weight fabrics and decorative top-
stitching on these fabrics
o Check Your Needle
1, Look for barbed or blunt point.
2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks
and silk-Like fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong,
smooth and consistent in thickness.
1
m
o Fabric, Needle,
Lightwmght:
FABRIC
Thread
Batiste0 Dimttyo Chiffon,

and Stitch Length Chart
NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR .co
THREAD SIZE
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
RECOMMENDED
STITCH
2
LENGTH
SETTING
To Change Your Needle
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Silks, Fine Lace. Organza, 11-ORANGE
Fine Mercerized Cotton (12 stitches per
Crepe, Taffeta° Voile, inch)
Silk A
Organdy
Medium Weight:
Cotton, Cotton Blends,
50 Mercerized Cotton
Percate, Gingham, 2--2.5
Polyester Core/Cotton
Shantung, Pique, 14-RED (10-12 stitches
Wrap Needle clamp screw
Seersucker, Satin, Kmts. per *rich )
Silk A
Vinyl Su_tmgs= Lmen,
Wool Crepe, Leather
uid
Medium Heavy Weight: 50 Mercerized CottOn

Flat
Corduroy, Demm_ Woot, 14-RED Mercerized Heavy-Duty 2--3 stale
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel= Polyester Core/Cotton (8-!0 stitches
or away
Gabardine, Velvets, Wrap per Lnch)
16*PURPLE from
Lea ther Silk A
you
Heavy Duty Mercerized

Heavy Weight: 3
Cotton
Coatings, Upholstery
18-GREEN Polyester Core/Cotton (8 stretches per
Cotton Ducks Heavy mch) NOTE : Raise the needle bar to its highest posi-
Twills, Canvas Wrap
Silk A
tion by turning the hand wheel toward
Decorat=ve top-stitching ,6-PURPLE
! Buttonhole Twist 3--4 you,
-g
(6-8 stitches
on all types of fabr=c [Use as top thread on_y) per inch)
18-GREEN !
t. Loosen the needle cfamp screw by turning tt
Stretch Fabric: toward you.
t t -B LUE
Polyester Double Kmts, Polyester Core/Cotton 2--2.5
(STRETCH
Nyton Tricot, Jersey, Wrap (10-12 stitches
FABRIC 2. Remove the needle by pulling tt downward.
Stretch Terry, Spandex, NEEDLE) 50 Mercerized Cotton per inch)
Cite Tricot
3. insert the new needle into the needle clamp
with the flat side away from you.
all
4. Push the needle up as tar as it will go.
5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the

large screwdriver from your accessory storage
box.
t4
Prepare the Bobbin

o To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine o Wind the Bobbin
!. Gently push down on the bobbin cover plate and slide

Bobbin winding spindle
it towards you.
2. Set aside. Clutch
3. Lift out the bobbin, as shown. 1. Put your spool of thread onto spool pin, with the thread winding in the direction
sh own.
2. Pull the clutch away from the machine to stop the needle from moving while you
wtnding the bobbin.
3o Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown.
4. Place the threaded bobbin on the bobbin winding spindle so that the thread comes
out on top.
5. Push the bobbin winder spindle to the right until it elicks_
6. Holding onto end of thread, depress the foot control.
7. When the bobbin is slightly filled, stop the machine and clip the thread coming from
the bobbim
8. Slowly start the machine again and wind the thread until the bobbtn stops.
9. Push the bobbin wlnder spindle to the left and clip the thread.
10. Remove the bobbin.
11. Push in the clutch for normal sewing operation.
15
= Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder

f _ F "x F
®
........................ J
® ®
1, Put the bobbin into the bobbin 2. Pu_l about 4 inches of thread 3. Then pull the thread clockwise 4. Slide the bobbin cover plate while
holder so that the thread feeds toward you through the tension toward the back of the machine pushing it down slightly over the
counter-cfockwJse (left). slot _. through the slot bobbin. Atlow about 4 inches of
thread to show above the needle
plate.
16
Prepare Your Top Thread

Thread Your Needle
f
k., j
Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you.
Raise presser foot tever.
Place spool on spool pln as shown, w_th thread coming from the back of the spool.
1. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.
2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the
check spring holder.
The numbered steps above follow the numbers 3_ Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.
on the illustrations.
4. Draw thread down and slip It through the thread guide.
Dotted lines show places where the thread
5. Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide.
loops and then ts pulled tight.
6. Thread needle from front to back.
NOTE: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.
1
:ii::iPr_p_ _ou_::TOp
Th:readii_(cOntinued
):
= Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread

f
,j
,, J J
1. Rinse presser foot _ever. Hold 2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling 3. Pull both threads under and to the
needle thread loosely in left hand top th read, back of the presser foot, leaving 4
and rotate handwheel toward to 6 inches of thread clear.
you one complete turn.
18
m
Adjust the Top Thread
Top side ol labrlc

Tens=on
Setting mark
.co Choose the Correct
The best tension will
the stiffness
the number
Tensmn:
depend on;
and thtckness
of fabric layers
of the fabric
es
the type of stitch
The top thread The lop thread

ll_read " _w- Tighlen _s too loose_ _s too t_ght
Top s_de Top stde

uid
ol fabric
For Straight Stitch ot la
The _deal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of The top thread The bobbin thread
appears on the appears on the
fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail. underside ot the upper sur|ace ol the
tabr_c. fabric_
If you look at the stttch, front and back, you wilt notice that there are no
,G
gaps, that each stttch is smooth and even.
When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top
-g
thread.
k_ , ,, J
Tension Is too loose: Tension _stoo t_ght:
The top thread shows through the The bobbin thread will come through
bottom ot the fabnc. The bottom side the top of the fabric. The top side of
all
ot the stitch will feet bumpy. the stitch will feel bumpy.
1
:_Stitch Selector
For Zigzag Stitch
In the correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side
of fabric and the top threads will show siightly on the bottom side. See
below for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust your top
tensi on.
Top tension Top tension

Too Tight Too Loose Just Right
Red
indicator
Top stde of Fabric

iiiiii!!i!i!
Top side of Fabric Top side of Fabric
The stitch
Simply
on the stitch
stitch
NOTE:
selector
turn
length
control
this control
indicator
control
determines
until
panel.
the desired
The bottom
is set at the stretch
the stitch
stitch
stitch
you select.
row
is indicated
of stitches
position,
To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure your needle is up and out of

is selected
.........
by the red indicator

when
J
the
fabric when selecting a stitch.
Stitch patterns are color-coded to recommend setting zones at the stitch length
control.
Bottom side of Fabric

i!ii
iiiii
i !il
iii iiii iii!i
Too Loose:
ZONES
Orange
Green
Blue ..........
Yellow
........
..........
........
Straight,
Geometric
Buiit4n
Stretch
Zigzag and Utility
Decorative
Buttonhole
Stitches
Stitches
Making
Stitches
Too Tigh t: Just Right:

-- Corner ot each The top thread Mimmize the amount
zigzag will pull will loop through of top thread vtsibfe on
together on the bottom s_de of the bottom side of
top side of fabrics. tabrtc and will be fabric without causing
pulled almost excessive puckering or
together. causing the bobbin
thread to show on the
top side. Results vary
with _abrlc, thread and
sewing conditions,
2O
Stitch Width Control Stitch Length Control ....Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance
V Widtl_ V Length
Stretch SIIlch
.........J ,,)
The stitch length control regulates the tn stretch stitch sewing, the stretch stitch
The stitch width control regulates the
4- V adjuster should usually be m a neutral
width of the stitch you select. length of stitch, and also has a stretch
h position (between '%" and "--", or
The higher
stitch.
the number, the wider the
stitches
The higher
setting.
the number, the longer the

< position}.
may need
When sewing some fabrics,
to adjust this control
you
to
stitch.
balance the stitches for appearance sake.
0 means no feed.
If destgn seems open like the illustrations
To seiect Stretch Stitches, set this to the left, adjust the control slightly
controt at Stretch Stitch. toward "'--" until design looks like the
Smocking stretch
center design.
NOTE: When you select built4n
buttonhole (blue), make sure tf the design appears to be closed as i
that you do not set the stitch the right hand illustrations, turn the
control toward "+" until stitching is a
lengh control at "Stretch
Stitch"- you desire.
Study the orange, yellow

Riekrack stretch
and blue sections around
this control. These are
recommended zones of
stitch length and color-coded
to the stitches pictured on
the stitch indicator panei.
2
_: Starting To Sewii:
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine,
you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habrts to follow
Reverse
each time you stt down to sew:
1. Inspect the needle, It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size
for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new
fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers.
2. Before plamng the materral on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4
inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the
seam.
',,,, j 3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should be double thickness. Adjust
the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric.
To reverse stitch, hold down this con-
trol during sewing. 4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and
the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate when making a slmpte
Release to sew forward again.
seam.
5_
Run the machine at a stow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the
machine will sew.
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.
7, Always fimsh sewing each seam w_th the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric tn such a way
that the normal feeding is altered.
9, When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn tt toward you.
22
PracticalStitchChart
Stitch Thread Stitch Stitch
Refer to Page
Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach. Needle Tension Length Width Uses
STRAIGHT Stra=ght Check 2_6 Orange 0 Regular searms, zippers, topstitching, darmng, 27 _ 29,
1 Chart Zone etc. 42 _ 43
I I on p. t4
I
I
I
J 1
t
DarMng Zipper
p_ate foot
Check 2 _ 6 Yellow o Use on knits and other stretch fabrtcs, good 29

STRAIGHT Strmght
STR ETCH Chart Stretch for topstitching.
on p. 14 Stitch
IIi Posit}on
III
III
Ul
ZIGZAG Zigzag Check 3 _ 8 Orange t~5 Fimsh edges, buttons, satin stitch, applique, 30 _ 35
Chart Zone monogram, embroidery, sewing bar tacks. I
on p. 1__44
RICK*RACK Check 2 _ 6 Yellow 2_5 Decorate garments with one row or several 35
STRETCH Chart Stretch
on p_14 Stitch
Postt_on
BLIND HEM Check 2 ~ 6 Orange 2~3 Use for fimshing seams. 38

STITCH Chart Zone
on p. 14
2
m
Stitch
OVERCAST
STRETCH
Selection
Stitch
Foot and Other Attach,
%
Zigzag
.co
Needle
Check
Chart
on p. 14
Tension
Thread
2_6
Stitch
Length
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
Stitch
Width
3_5
I
i
....
uses
Use for swlmwear0 ski pants and other

garments that require stretch.
tterer to t_age
37
es
THREE-STEP Zigzag Check 2_6 0.5_ 1 36
ZIGZAG Chart I Use for fimshing seams.
on p.L4
<
%
uid
SMOCKING Zigzag Check 2_6 Yellow 3_5 Use m smocking or as a decorative stitch. 45
STITCH Chart Stretch
on p. 14 Stitch
4
i
d
p % Position
-g
SHELL Sat_n Check 4_9 Orange 3 _ 5 Finish hems, sleeve and neck opemngs. 44
STITCH Chart Zone Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to
on p. 14 overcast and seam,
% Do shetl tucking on blouses and lingerie.

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SERGING Bfue (11 ) 3~6 Yelfow 3~5 Fimsh hems, sleeve and neck openings, 37
Zigzag
on p. 14 Stretch Use on nylon tricot and other linger=e to
Stitch overcast and seam.
t Pos_t_on DO shell tucking on blouses and lingerie.
I
24

Stitch Selection
Foot end Other Attach, Needle
Width
Uses Refer to Page
Tension Length
BOX Zigzag Check 3 _ 8 Orange 3_5 Use tot ovedappmg seams. 47

STITCHING Chart Zone
(_ on p. 14 i
ELASTIC Zigzag Check 3 _ 6 Yellow 3_5 Use for apptymg elastic. 47
STR ETC H Chart Stretch
on p. 1_4 Stitch
/
% Pos_tton
3 ~ 8 0.5 ~ 2 5 Join two folded edges for decorative 46

FAGOTING Zigzag Check
Chart open*work appearance.
on p. 14
%
STRETCH Zigzag Check 2 _ 6 Yellow Use for patchwork quilting. 45
PATCHING Chart Stretch
on p. 14 Stitch
(\
(q
<>
<>
<> % Position
TWO-POINT SHELL Zigzag Check 3 -- 8 Orange Do shet_ tucking on blouses and fingene. 44
ST| TCH IN G Chart Zone Th_s stitch can also be used as a single
on p. 14 i overiock stitch as welt.
L>
r_>
L>
C>
%
2
: iP'ractic_i:_s_itc_Cha_i:: iContinued): i;

Stitch Selection Foot and OtherAttach, Uses Refer to Page
Needle Tension Length Width
HERRING BONE Zigzag Check 2-6 Yellow 3_5 Use as hemming stitch for blankets, table- 46
STRETCH Chart Stretch cloth end draperms,
on p. 14 Stitch
Position
/\
BUTTONHOLE Check 2~6 Blue Zone 3~5 Buttonholes: also corded buttonholes. 40 ~ 41
Chart
on p, 1_4
D
SATIN STITCH Satin Check 3_8 0.5-- 1 Use for applique work, also as decorative 31
Chart fimsh for placematso blanketso collars,
on p. 14 cuffs and pockets.
26
Straight Stitches
o Straight Stitch = Use the Seam Guides

f
Sat the Machine
Stitch w=dth /
control 0
I ._/ Cornering guide J

Top thread tens|on I The seam guides on the needle plate
control 2 to 6
Stitch length are engraved to help you measure seam
control orange Before sewing with the straight stitch 7. At the beginning and end of wtdth, The lines are 1/8" apart, with
zone
foot, always set the stitch width seam, you may want to reverse to the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked.
control to 0 to avoid breaking the lock the stitch,
needle. • Turn a Square Corner
8. Rmse the presser foot and remove
t. Raise the presser foot, the fabric.
2. Rmse the needle to its highest 9. Cutthe threads.
Stretch Stitch posit{on,
3. Place the edge of the fabric next

H: Straight foot to a stitching guide tine on the
needle plate (5/8" is most
NOTE: Best sewmg results are common).
obtained with the straight
4. Draw the threads toward the back To turn a square corner 5/8" from the
stitct! foot, but the zigzag
and lower the presser foot. fabric edge:
foot wilt also provide
5. Press the foot control 1. Stop stitching and lower the
acceptable results.
6. Hold the fabnc loosely and gently needle by turning hand wheel
guide it along the guide line, so toward you when the fabric edge
that It feeds naturally. facing you lines up with the
cornermg guide, as shown.
Do not force the fabric or try to
2. Raise the presser foot and turn
pul{ it tight.
the fabric to line the edge with
the 5/8" seam guide.
3. Lower the presser foot and begin
st{tching m the new direction.
2
'_;_:i':i_:_ii_!::!:!:i:i_;;:;:ii_::;:!i_i:i:!_:_!,
:!:i iiii:i:_,_;_:_/i_::: :,i:x _!_!_!' ::!W •
= Use the Darning Plate Topstltchi ng
Darning pfate Set the Machine
\ Stitch wsdth
control 0
top thread tension Stitch tength

controt 2 to 6 control Orange
zone Here's How
J
1. Lower the presser foot.
Sometimes when you sew, you want to contro] the fabric yourself.
2. Keep the edge of the fabric next
The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs so that they do not touch the fabric.
to the right edge of the presser
To Put on the Darning Plate: 4
foot.
NOTE. The rectangular holes m the Darning Plate match the holes in the
Stretch Stitch 3_ Evenly guide the fabric along this
needle plate. In the darning pfate, these holes are siightty to the
edge to produce an even row of
right of center.
topstitchmg 5/8" from the edgm
H: Straight foot
1. Position the darning plate with the pins on the bottom.
2. Fit the darning plate pros into the needle plate holes at the
The Stitch and Its Uses
5/8" mark. The feed dogs witt show through the darning plate
holes. Topstitchmg emphasizes the lines of
your garment and keeps seams and
Use the darning plate in the fotlowing ways;
edges flat and crisp.
Darning (see page 2_99),
Accent suits or blouses with one or
Button Sewing (see page 34),
two rows of topst_tchmg around the
outer edges of cuffs, lapels or collars,
28
m
Darning
S_t the Machine

Stitch
control 0
] 2
w_dth
3 4
.co StraightStretch
Set the Machine

Stitch width
control 0
/234
es
Top thread
tansloR
control Stitch length Top thread tension Stitch length
2 to6 control any number control 2 to 6 control yellow
(not necessary to stretch stitch
adjust) position
uid
2 Here's How
2
1. Put the darning plate on the needle plate

(see page 2__88).
No presser
toot
2. Remove presser foot and foot holder
(see page 1__00), stretch fabric between
Stretch Stitch Stretch Stitch
embroidery hoops with hole centered.
Stretch stitching was developed
3. Draw the bobbin thread up through the
H: Straight foot to be used on stretch fabrics an
Darning plate fabric by holding the top thread and taking
knits, It can be used on other
-g
one stitch at the spot where you wish to

The Stitch and Its Uses fabrics as well. It works well o
start darning.
This stitch is the stretch variation of curved seams and on an
4. Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow garments that will receive a grea
the straight stitch, especially develop-
speed. deal of strain {ie. children's
ed for knits and stretch fabrics.
5. Move the fabric back and forth slowly until cloth es)o
This stitch can also be used for
you have covered the darning area. The stretch stitch does no
all
topstitching on all fabrics.

6_ Turn the fabric half turn and sew antother actually stretch as it is being
layer of stttching over the first layer. sewn, but ts stitched in

forward and back motion
NOTE: |f your fabric is thin or badly damaged,
(sometimes called a "reverse-
use a separate piece of fabric under the
action" stitch}, so that it wil
hote to reinforce it.
give when the fabric stretches
7. When you finish darning, remove the darning instead of breaking,
plate and reptace foot holder and foot.
Basic
Zigzag
Set the Machine

Stitch wtdth
control i to 5
't 234
Top thread tension Stitch length

control 3 to 8 control orange
Zone
2 Here°s How
There are many ways to sew a ztgzag stitch.
Consutt the specific variations for detaited directions.
Satin Stitch page 31,

Applique Work page 3_2,
Stretch Stitch
Bar Tacking page 32,
Monogramming page 33.
A: Zigzag foot Embroidery page 3_3,

.............. J
Button Sewing page 34,
The Stitch and its Uses Overcasting page 35.
The zigzag stttch _s one of the most

common and most versatile stitches on
your machine. It can be a utility stitch
for sewing buttons, buttonholes, hem-
mmg, overcasting, mending and darn*
ing. _t can also be used to decorate
with trims, appliques and cut-out work
or as a decorative stitch°
30
SatinStitch
Set the Machine Zigzag width :
Stitch width
contro! 2 to 5
@
i 2 3 .
Top thread
tension
control 3 to 8 Stitch length
control 0.5 to 1
C!ose to 0
Stretch Stitch
F: Satin stitch
....... 4_' ...... : TF
toot
Pressure dial: I or
The Satin stitch is a versatile and often

Here's How
used decorat=ve stitch, but It can also
Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a fragmen
be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex-
of the fabric you are planning to use. Too t_ght satin stitch may pucker some ligh
ample, blankets, linens, tablecloths
weight fabrics.
and napkins),
-The Satin stitch is especially attractive

in applique.
Bar Tacking
Set the Machine

Stitch width Stitch w_dth
control 2 to 5
@
_ 2 3 4 t: : :i : =::;; :!;i : := :!i :::
Top thread tension

control 2 to 6
Stitch length Top thread tenston
control 0.5 to t control 2 t.o 6 Stitch length
2 control 0.5 to 1
2
Baste {or fuse with _ron-on fabric Th_s stitch ts similar to a very short
joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. satin stitch and is used to reinforce
Stitch around the applique making points of strain such as corners or
sure the needle falls along the outer pockets and straps on linger_e.
edge of the applique.
Stretch Stitch Sew 4 to 6 z_gzag stitches.
Stretch Stitch
F_ Satin stitch
When sewing corners, lower the needle
foot down into the fabric. Raise the presser
foot and p_vot the fabric to the right
A: Zigzag toot
Pressure dial: 2 or left,
32
Monogramming Embroidery
Set the Machine Set the Machine

Stitcll width Stitch width
control 5
i 2 34
Top thread tension Top thread tension Stitch length controt

control 2 to 6 control 2 to 6 Any number {not
Stitch length
control 0,5 to "i necessary to adjust) Here's How
2
Here's How
1. Put the darning plate on the needle
1. Set the same as satin stitch, plate (see page 28).
2. Back the fabric with paper or 2. Remove foot holder (see page 10).
4
mterfacing. 3, Adjust the stitch width as desired
No presSer
Stretch Stitch foot Stretch Stitch (see page 2I).
3. Draw the letters on the fabric
with tailor's chalk. 4. Draw the design on to the fabric
4. Satin stitch, adjusting the stitch with tailor's chalk,

F' Satin stitch Oarmng plate
toot
width as necessary to form each . Stretch the fabric between embroi_
pattern. dery hoops and place under the
needle.
5. If using paper, carefully remove tt
when you have finished sewing. 6_ Lower the presser foot lever t
engage the top thread tension.
7, Holding the top thread in your lef

hand, rotate the hand whee| toward
you one complete turn.
Put| the top thread to draw th
bobbin thread through to the surface
of the fabric.
8_ Using a medium speed, stitch along

the marked outline, guiding th
fabric carefully by hand.
m
o Sew a Button
Set the Machine

Stitch width control
Must be adiu sted
_ 2 3 4
.co
es
Top thread tenston
control 2 to 6
Stitch length control
Any number {not
necessary to adiust )
,_, ,..................... J
Use the darning plate for button sewmg (see page 28). To strengthen the shank, cut the
uid
t. threads leaving a 8" tail. Bring the

Match the center of the button holes to the center of the slot on the presser
foot. needle thread down through the hole
4 m the button and wind it around the
21
Adjust the stitch width so that needle wilt drop in each hole. shank.
Stretch Stitch 3. Lower the foot to hold the button in place. Draw the thread to the bottom side
Turn the hand wheel by hand so that needle will enter either hole of the and knot,
button.
A: Zigzag toot
Darning pta 4. Stitch several times.
-g
all
34
Overcasting Stitch 0 Rick-Rack Stretch

f
Stitch wrdth Stitch width

control 3 to 5 control 2 to 5
2 3 -
@
I234
Top thread tension Top thread tension

Stitch length Stitch length
control orange control yellow
zone k,, ¸ stretch stitch
Helpful Hints position The Stitch and Its Uses
Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that
raw corner of your seam. If you start you might use a zigzag stitch.
right at the edge, the fabric will bunch This stitch can be used as a decorative
up and the stitches will become 4 top stitch as well.
Stretch Stitch
tangled,
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzagtoot A: Zigzag toot
Thts z_gzag variation is very useful m

garment construction and =n finishing
raw edges ot any sewing project.
3
o Three-Step Zigzag
Set the Machine

Stitch width
control 5
"1234
Top thread tension

control 2 to 6
Stitch length
control 0.5 to 'l
Seam Fimshtng (Overcasting) Mending

Place the fabric under the presser foot Posmon the tear under the needle so
so that the edge witl be slightly inside that the stitching will catch both sides.
the right hand side of the presser foot.
Stretch Stitch Guide the work so the right hand

stitches fall at the edge of the fabric.
A: Zigzag foot
_ ....... J

The three-step zigzag is a combination
ztgzag and straight stitch. You may use
the three-step zigzag everywhere you
would use the basic zigzag stitch. It
has more strength, elasticity, and is
flatter than a regular zigzag.
The three-step z_gzag stitch =sespecial*
ly useful for:
-- mending
-- sewing patches smoothly and
securely.
repairing straight tears.
-- finishing seams.
36
o Overcast Stretch Stitching o Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching

f
Stitch width Stitch width
control 3 to 5 controI 3 to 5
-23
Top thread tension Top thread tenslon

control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 3 to 6 Stitch length
control yellow control yel!ow
stretch stitch stretch stitch .......
pos_tlon Here's How pos|t_on Here's How

2
Place the raw edge of the fabric to Place the fabric under the presser
the LEFT of the needle as shown. foot so that the stitches are made
over the edge,
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric
!ust short of the outsnde edge.
Stretch Stitch NOTE : When using stretch kmt
Or, place your fabnc to ailow a 5/8"
seam, then thin seam allowance fabnc, use a blue stretch
after, fabric needle which

A; Zigzag toot A: Zigzag foot
effectwely prevents
% ................................... J Raw or worn edges of older garments
The Stitch and Its Uses The Stitch and Its Uses skipped stitches.
can be overcast to prevent further
This stitch can be used for sewing a raveling, Use this stitch when you want a
seam with an overcast fimsh. narrow seam that you do not need to
NOTE: Use a blue stretch fabric
The seam ts formed and fin=shed m press open flat. it _s _deal for 1/4"
needle, which effectively
one operation, It can be used when seams on kmts or on medium to
prevents skipped stitches,
you are maMng sw_mwear, sM pants heavyweight woven fabrics where you
and other garments that require want a narrow seam, It Js also great
stretch. for making elastic swim wear,
3
Set the Machine

Stitch w_dth
1/4"
contro! 2 to 3
_ 2 3 4
L_ght
Weight
Fabric 1/4"
Top thread tension

contro_ 2 to 6 Stitch length
control orange
zone Heavy
2 Weight
Fabric
1, Finish the raw edge of your hem any way you desire. (see overcasting page 3.5).
Stretch Stitch 2. Measure, turn up your hem and pin.
NOTE. For light wmght fabrics, you may need a double fold,
A: Zigzag foot 3. Fotd the material (bottom side out) on the edge to be stitched, as shown, leaving t/4" of the finished hem edge
showing.
4. Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge. The zigzag
stitch should just catch the fold of the garment.
5. After hemming, press both sides of the finished hem. The top s_de of the garment will show only the blind stitches.
38
m
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control
_ 2
2
3 4
to 3
.co
es
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch length I ::_: :::;============================
control 'l
uid
_i_:!_:_!i!ii_i!ii_!iiil;!iiii_i_i_!_'_!i
i_iill
ilii:il _ili_!iiiii!!ii!_iiii!ii_!_'!'_
_
i:i!ili!
Stretch Stitch ,J
Lace adds a fanciful, feminine touch
to blouses and lingerie. Table linens
A: Zigzag toot
and pillows become more elegant
when trimmed with lace.
-g
Turn raw edge of fabric under at least

5/8"= Place lace underneath and top-
stttch using stretch blind hem stitch.
Trim excess fabric close to stitching.

all
Set the Machine

Stitch width
control 3 to 5
141
llfl
i
I
i!
III i Stitch length
control
!!i i ii iiiiiiiiiiiill
Blue zone F:_
2 I3
1. a. Caretulfy mark the buttonhole 2_ a. Move the slider (A) toward you 3. a. Set the stitch selector at I'l
g7 _
length on your garment, so that the top mark (C) on the
b. Sew forward until you reach the
slider meets the start mark (8).
b, Change to the sliding buttonhole front marking of your button-
Top thread tension 0 L_'_i4 foot. b. Line up the markings on the hole.
control 2 to 6 foot w_th the top mark on your
Stretch Stitch c. Insert the garment under the c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
foot with the buttonhole mark. garment,
Sliding buttonhole loot
ing running toward you, e. Lower the presser foot.
NOTE: The markings on the slider

are engraved m centimeters,
Adjusting the Stitch Density
Depending upon your fabric or your
own preference m buttonholes, you Q
may alter the buttonhole stitch Coarse
shtches
density within the blue buttonhole lot heavy
range on the stitch length dial. iabr_cs
1. For
toward
tess density,
"1 ".
turn the dial
@
Fine
2. For more density, turn the dial st{lobes
toward "0": tot lighl
fabrics
NOTE. Always make a practice but-
tonhole on a scrap fabric you
plan to use to find the more
Stre_,ch S_,itch
suitable stitch length.
40
F! t_
4, a,Setthestitchselector
at . 5. a, Setthestitchselector
at I_1 6. a, Set the stitch selector at 1,1
7_ Remove the fabric and cut the
hole open with the buttonhole
b.Sew4 to6 stMtches, b, Sewuntilyoureachthebackof b, Sew 4 to 6 stttches.
c. Stopsewingattherightstitch. thebuttonhole. c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.

opener in your accessory storage
box.
c. Stopsewing attherightstitch.
NOTE:
When sewing at the edge of fabric, set

sliding buttonhole foot as illustrated
and sew in reverse { _--> _->_]-_ ),
Fabric Preparation: Set the Machine
Put the top sides of the fabric together Stitch width /Zipper _eeth
control 0
and sew to the end of the zipper
2 3 Zipper tape
opening. Use the reverse to lock the
stitches.
Sew the zipper opening with stitch

length at "4" and top thread tension
at "3".
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch length
control 2
2
To Sew: 4. Attach the presser bar to the right
pros on the zipper foot.
Reset stitch length at 2 and top
thread tension at 2 to 6. 5. Lower the zipper foot on the top
i parting
Top side Fold back the left seam allowance side at the bottom of the zipper
o! fabric
asshown. so that the needle pierces the fold
and the zipper tape.
2. Turn under the right seam allow-
Stretch Stitch
ance to form a 1/8" fold. 6. Sew through the fold and the
Top edge of fabric E: Zipper
3. Place the zipper teeth next to the zipper tape to the point where the
fOOt
1/8" fold and pin in place, slider begins.
7. Lower the needle to hold the

To attach the zipper foot:
fabric and raise the presser foot,
o To sew on the left side of the zipper,
attach the presser bar to the right pins
on the zipper foot.
The pin on the o To sew on the right side of the zipper,

iett hand side attach the presser bar to the left pins
on the zipper foot.
42
offabric
:::::
i'::
8. Openthez_pper. 10.Closethe zipperand turn the 11.Removethe zipper foot and 14. Stop about 2" from the top of the
fabrictopsideup, attachthepresser barto theleft zipper,
9. Lowerthepressertootandstitch
pins on the zipper foot,
therestoftheseam. 15, Lower the needle into the fabnc
12. Stitch across and below the bot- and raise the presser foot.
tom of the zipper,
t6, Remove the basting stitches and
I3. Turn the corner and continue to open the z_pper.
guide the foot among the zipper t7, Lower the foot and stitch the rest
teeth, as shown. of the seam, Make sure the'_old i
Stitch through the fabric and
even,
zipper tape.
4
m
.co
_i:ii::
TwO-Point Shell Stitching
Set the Machine

Stitch width
es
Stitch length J Stitch length J
control orange control orange

,zone Here's How zone This stitch can also be used as a
2 single overlock stitch as wetl.
I. For best effect:
uid
set the stitch length as you

desire.
you may need to tighten the
top thread tension slightly.
Stretch Stitch Stretch Stitch
allow the needle to just
F_ Satin stitch
clear the folded edge of the
foot fabric when it zigzags. A: Zigzag foot
k_
2. If yOU sew rows of shell stitches,
-g
The Stitch and Its Uses space the rows 5/8" apart,
The Shell Stitch is formed by sewing a You can sew Shell Stitch on knits or
blind hem over folded fabric. Several soft silky wovens in any direction,
rows of shell stitching are called shell
tucks.
Shell stitching can be used to finish

all
hems, sleeve and neck openings.
Shell tucking can be used to create

scalloped tucks on blouses and
lingerie.
44
N:TNEi:sTI
Smocking Stretch Patching
Sgt the Machine Set the Machine

control 3 to 5 control 5
Ii
i 2 3, I

control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 2 to 6 Stitch length control
control yellow yellow stretch stitch
stretch stitch ¢- -. pOSition
2
positton
For patching worn out elbows or
knees.
4
Stretch Stitch
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag toot
With the stttch length at "'4", sew
strmght stitching lines 3/8" apart
across the area to be smocked.
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull
the bobbin threads and distribute the
gathers evenly. Secure the threads at
the other end. Sew the decorative
stitch between the gathering stitches.
Pull out the gathenng stitches.
NOTE: Loosen the top thread

tension to make gathenng
easier.
4
:::Eagoting Stitch !,:: Herring Bone Stretch:

control 5
i 2 3_

control 3 to 8 Stitch length control 2 to 6 Stitch Iength
control 0,5 to 2 control yeIIow
stretch stitch
Here's How posl t_on Here's How
!, Fold under each fabric edge 5/8" Piace the fabric top side up, and sew
and press. 3/8" from the edge,
4
4
2. Pin the two edges to paper or Trim close to stitching_ The stitch wilt
Stretch Stitch tear-away backing I/8" apart. prevent raveling.
3. Sew slowly, guiding the fabrtc Stretch Stitch

so the needle catches the folded
A: Zigzag toot A: Zigzag foot
edge on each side.
J
The Stitch and Its Uses The Stitch and Its Uses
Use this stitch to join two pieces of Use as hemming stitch for blankets,
fabric to create an open work tablecloth and draperies.
appearance and add design interest,
46
EtasticStretchStitch Box Stitching

control 3 to 5
1 2 3_
control 3 to 5

control 3 to 6 Stitch length control 3 to 8 Stitch length
controt yellow control orange
stretch stitch
postflOl]
Use this stitch to iota heavy weight
interlining.
Overlap two raw edges together an

use this stitch to join them.
Stretch Stitch
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag toot A: Zigzag toot
Choose this stitch to attach elastic to

garments.
1. Marl{ the elastic into quarters and

match these to the center front,
center back and side seams.
2. Place the middle ot the elastic

under the center of the presser
foot and stitch into place, making
sure the elastic is evenly distri-
buted.
4
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Incorrect skze needle. Choose correct size needle tor thread and fabrfc.
Improper threading. Rethread machine.
Loose upper thread tension. Tighten upper thread tension.
Irregular Stitches Pulling fabric. Do not pull fabric; guide _t gently.
Loose presser foot. Reset presser foot.
Unevenly wound bobbin. Rewind bobbin.
Nicks or burrs at hote of needle plate, Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Pulling fabric. Do not pull fabric; guide _t gently.

Incorrect s_ze needle. Choose correct s_ze needle for thread and fabric.
Breaking Needle
Incorrect setting of needle. Reset needle.
Loose presser foot. Reset presser fool
Upper and lower threads not drawn back When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and
Bunching of Thread under presser foot before starting seam. back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitches are
formed.
Incorrect thread tension. Reset thread tension.

Using two different sizes or kinds of thread. Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same s_ze and kind.
Puckering Bent or blunt needle. Insert new needle.
Loose presser foot. Reset presser foot.
Fabric too sheer or too soft, Use underlay of t_ssue paper.
48
m
Skipping
PROBLEM
Stitches
Incorrect
.coPROBABLE
s_ze needle,
Bent or blunt needle,
CAUSE CORRECTION
Choose correct size needle for thread

Insert new needle.
and fabnc.
es
tncorrec[ settmg of needle. Reset needle.
Tight upper thread tension. Loosen upper thread tension.
Starting to stitch too fast. Start to stitch at a medium speed.

lmproper threading. Rethread machine.
Tight upper thread tension. Loosen upper thread tension,
Breaking Upper Thread incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Sharp eye in needle. insert new needle.
uid
Nicks or burrs at hole oi needle plate. Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Improper bobbin threading. Check bobbin threading,

Breaking Bobbin Thread Lint m bobbin holder or hook race, Clean bobbin holder and hook race.
Remove darning plate.

Darning plate m place.
Adjust Stitch Length Control.
Stitch Length set at 0.
Fabric not Mowng Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning
Thread knotted under fabric.
to stitch.
Push-pull clutch ts disengaged.
Push in the clutch.
-g
Thread caught _n hook race. Disassemble and clean hook race.

Machine Jamming Knocking No_se
Lint tn bobbin holder or hook race. Clean bobbin holder and hook race.
all
4
::::Clean the:Bobbin: Holder i::

;< ::: :::: ': i::::: :: •: : :
To insure that your machine operates at its best, you need to keep the
essential parts clean at all times.
The bobbin area can attract dust and tint. Your machine can become sluggish
or knock loudly if a thread is caught.
! i i I
Unplug the machine and open the

face cover.
CAUTI 0 N! The light bulb will be

HOT. Protect your
cover plate
fingers when you
handle it. Follow these directions: 4. Brush or vacuum the dust and lint 6, Slide on the bobbin cover plate by
out of the bobbin holder. pushing it mto the grooves.
1. Turn off the power or unplug the
2. Push the bulb up and turn the
machine. 5. Replace the bobbin.
bulb counter-clockwise to remove
ft. 2. Remove the bobbin cover plate by
firmly pulling _t toward you.
3. Put the new bulb in by pushing _t
up and turning tt clockwise. 3. Remove the bobbin.
5O
:OR ,YOU R: MACHINE;:
Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs Oiling the Machine
f
Open face cover plate and oil POints as shown below at least once a year, One o
two drops of oil is sufficient.
Remove excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabrics.
1, Unplug the machine and remove 5. Take out the bobbin. Lift up the
the presser foot and needle, bobbin holder and remove it,
2_ Remove the bobbin cover plate.
3. Remove the screw on the left s=de

of the needle with the large screw
driver.
In case machine is not used for an
4, Remove the needle plate.
extended time, oil it before sewing.
Use good quality sewing machine oil,
No other oiling is required
Above points are only area which

require oiling on this machine.
Red marks
J v j
6. Use the lint brush to clean the Line up the red marks and place
feed dogs, hook race and bobbin the bobbin holder so the knob fits
holder. Also use a soft, dry next to the stopper in the hook
cloth, race, as shown above.
5
PARTS LIST
1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 9 lO 12
14 15 16
/
/
52
All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears Roebuck and Co. store
or service center. Ref, No. Part No. Description
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING 1 *20-6868 Bobbin box with 10 bobmes
INFORMATION:
2 102403202 Spool pin felt
1. PART NUMBER 3 813404013 No. 11 Stretch fabric needles (BLU)
2. PART DESCRIPTION 6551 No. 11 Single needles (ORG)

3. MODEL NUMBER 6552 No, 14 Single needles (RED)
4. NAME OF ITEM
6553 No, 16 Single needles (PUR)
6554 No. 18 Single needles (GRN}
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited 4 652806003 Straight foot
handling. 5 685502008 Zigzag foot
6 825813005 Sliding buttonhole foot
7 823803006 Zipper foot
8 822804118 Satin stitch foot
9 *6864 Needle threader
10 6797 L}ght bulb
11 820832005 Large screw driver

12 41669 Small screw driver
13 802424004 Lint brush
14 6830 Buttonhole opener

15 *6889 Oil and lint brush
16 652802OO9 Darning plate
* These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be ordered per
instructions above,
5
m
INDEX
.co
A H S
Accessory storage box ............... 2, 8 Hand wheel .................... 3, 18 Satin stitch foot ....................
Appliqueing .................... 23, 32 Herring bone stretch .............. 26, 46 ......... 4, 12, 24, 26, 31"_33, 44, 52_53
Hook race ..................... 51 Satin stitching ................. 26, 31
B Seam guides .................... 27
Bar tacking .................... 23, 32 L Serging ....................... 24, 37
Base ............................. 2 Lace work ...................... 39 Serging or pine leaf stretch .......... 24, 37
Basic zigzag ..................... 23, 30 Large screw driver .............. 4, 52_53 Sewing light ....................... 5
Blind hemming ............... 23, 38_39 Shell stitching .................. 24, 44
Light and power switch .............. 3, 5
es
Bobbin ............. 4, 15_16, 50, 52_53 Light bulb .................. 50, 52"_53 Sliding buttonhole foot ..............
Bobbin holder .............. 16, 50"_51 Lint brush ................... 4, 52_53 ............... 4, 12, 26, 40_41,52_53
Bobbin thread ................... 18_-t9 Small screw driver ............. 4, 52_53
Bobbin winding .................. 15 M Smocking ..................... 24, 45
Bobbin winding spindle ............. 2, 15 Snap-on button .................. 3, t0
Monogramming ................. 23, 33 Spool pin felt ............... 4, 7, 52_53
Box stitching ................... 25, 47
Buttonhole ................. 26, 40_4! N Spool pins ....................... 2, 7
Buttonhole opener .......... 4, 41,52"_53 Stitch length control .............. 2, 21
Needle ................. 13_14, 52_53 Stitch selector .................. 3, 20
Button sewing .................. 23, 34
uid
Needle clamp .................... 3, 14 Stitch width control ............... 2, 21

C Needle plate ..................... 2, 16 Straight stitching ............. 23, 27_29
Needle, thread and fabric chart ......... 14 Straight stitch foot.,, 4, 11, 23, 27_29, 52_53
Cabinet .......................... 2 Needle threading ................ 17_18
Changing needle ................... 14 Straight stretch stitching ........... 23, 29
Changing presser foot ............. t0_11 Stretch patching ................. 25, 45
O Stretch stitch adjuster .............. 3, 21
Cleaning hook race and feed dogs ....... 51
Oiling .......................... 51
Cornering guide .................. 27
Overcasting stitch .................. 35 T
Overcast stretch ................. 24, 37 Take-up lever .................... 2, 17
D
Thread cutter ..................... 2, 7
Darning ...................... 23, 29 P
Thread guide .................. 2_3, 17
-g
Darning plate ...... 4, 28, 29, 33_34, 52_53

Parts list ...................... 52"--53 Three-step zigzag ................ 24, 36
Performance problems ............. 48"_49 Topstitching ................... 23, 28
E
Plug connector .................... 3, 5 Top thread .................... 17_20
Elastic stretch .................. 25, 47 Portable case ...................... 2 Top thread tension ............... 19_20
Embroidery .................... 23, 33 Power switch ..................... 3, 5 Top thread tension control ........ 2, 19_20
Extension table ................... 2, 8 Practical stitch chart .............. 23_26 Turning a square corner .............. 27
Pressure control dial ................. 6 Two-point shell stitching ........... 25, 44
all
F
Presser foot .................. 3, I0_12
Fabric, needle, thread and stitch Presser foot lever .................. 3, 7 Z
length chart .................... 14 Push-pull clutch .................. 3, 15 Zigzag foot .........................
Face cover plate ............. 2, 6, 50"-51 • _, 1t, 23"-26, 30, 32, 34_39, 44"_47, 52"53
Fagoting ........................ 25, 46 R Zigzag stitching .............. 23, 30_35
Feed dogs ........................ 5t Reverse stitch control ........... 2, 22, 27
Foot control ..................... 3, 5 Zigzag overcasting .................. 35
Rick-rack stretch stitching .......... 23, 35 Zipper application ............ 23, 42_43
Free arm sewing .................. 8_9
Zipper foot ....... 4, 12, 23, 42"43, 52_53
54
WARRANTY _
() FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD
(_ For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which appear
in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head.
FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE
_) For two years from the date of purchase, Sears wiIt, free of charge, repair defects in materml or workmanship which
appear m the electrical equipment of the sewing machine, including electronic components, motor, w_rmg, switch and
speed control.
#
FULL 90-DAY WAR RANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS
# For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts and prowde mechanical service #
_) necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance. #
#
WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING THE SEWING MACHINE TO THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE €
{_ CENTER!DEPARTMENT IN THE UNITED STATES.
_) This warranty gwes you specific legal r_ghts, and you may a_so have other rights whmh vary from state to state_ {)
#
#
_) SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., D/8t7 WA, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179

SEWING MACHINE
Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts
or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when
you call or visit,
:l'he model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of
your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
*MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION
if the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order wil! be electronically transmitted to a Sears
Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO,, Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A.
S-385 Printed in Taiwan Part No, 652800306

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All manuals and user guides at all-guides.

MODEL 385. 1584180

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record m space provided below the model number and seriai

Model No. 385, Serial No.

THIS MODEL tS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE,

SECTION I. KNOW YOUR MACHINE o Turn a Square Corner ...................... 27

Practica] Stitch Chart ...................... 23"_26 PARTS LIST ...................................... 52_53

: ::locate: anaiiaentify: ttle Parts:: i

A fuN-line of sewing cabinets is available at your

Top Thread Tension

Face Cover Piate

Hand Wheel Presser Foot ,.

Stretch Stitch Adiuster .t .JSll

Plug Connector -., Nomenclature Plate

Large screw driver Spool pin teft

Set Up the Machine

Power supply plug

SetUp the MaChine:i:I(Continued)

3 ..... most sewing

NOTE: The pressure dial should be reset at 3 after changing pressure, so

Spool pln felt-_._O

"'- Presser toot

= Accessory Storage Box o Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table

To Remove the Extension TabLe

1. Grip the table with your index finger and thumb,

To Attach the Extension TabJe

t. Fit the tabs into the slot, as shown.

2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.

__o : c:,:.::_::_:-i _:/ :::: ::=,,--:-:::::!_,:_:;:_>: ¸, .::_:-: :_ _ :_: :_:.

;i::iKnow What the Presser Feet Will Do

snaps on the foot holder, which is seldom removed.

To Remove: To Attach: To Snap Off:

To Remove: To Attach: To Snap Off the Presser Foot:

• Presser Foot Types

Zigzag Foot Strmght Foot

stitching. using center needle position only.

o Presser Foot Types (Continued)

Sliding ButtonhoJe Foot Zipper Foot Satin Stitch Foot

Sliding buttonhole toot E: Zipper foot F: Satin stitch foot

Blue {11) .......... for stretch fabrics

o Check Your Needle

1, Look for barbed or blunt point.

Batiste0 Dimttyo Chiffon,

Medium Heavy Weight: 50 Mercerized CottOn

Heavy Duty Mercerized

4. Push the needle up as tar as it will go.

5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the

Prepare the Bobbin

!. Gently push down on the bobbin cover plate and slide

2. Set aside. Clutch

5. Push the bobbin winder spindle to the right until it elicks_

6. Holding onto end of thread, depress the foot control.

10. Remove the bobbin.

11. Push in the clutch for normal sewing operation.

= Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder

Prepare Your Top Thread

1. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.