PUR

PATT 5
By .

Bruce Johnson
 CONTENTS

Pg. 1 Things to Consider ...

Pg. 2 A Few Notes About Cutting Patterns

Pg. 3-8 Soft Sided Top Yoke Purse

Pg. 9-13 Tooled Leather Purse

Pg. 14-18 Shopping Bag Purse

Pg.19-23 Hide Purse

Pg. 24-27 Zippered Top Bag/Case

Pg. 28-33 Bottom Yoke Soft Side Purse

THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE YOU GET STARTED .... Or Factors to Consider That I Didn't At
One Time

In no particular order here they are.

1. Weight - The more pockets, lining, and choice of using a heavy leather, just weighs more. Talk to
whoever you are making it for. How much will they carry, do they really need inside zippered and open
pockets, does it have to be lined. How big does it need to be anyway?
2. Choice ofleather - Lots of suitable chrome tans in different weights for soft sides. Heavy duty 6 oz. work
chap or 2 oz "butter"? I usually use about 3- 4 oz chap. Textured chrome tan gives me a truer leather look,
smooth can look like naugahyde. Hair on hide looks cool, but the hair can rub off with daily use. Inlayed
can last a long time. Tooling leather - the heavier, the deeper the tooling, the heavier the purse. As I line
nearly all tooled purses, I use 4/5 tooling, and line with 2/3 veg tan. Gives enough tooling depth, body, yet
light enough usually. .
3. Lining material- I like 2/3 oz oak for body. If! am lining a soft purse, I like the lining pigskin. A lot of
suppliers carry it. I use either "biscuit" or natural color. This will stiffen up a soft purse a little bit.
4. Using hair on hide - Orient the hide so the hair lays pointing down. Lessens the wear on it. And prevents
'cowlicks', couldn't resist that one, sony. Use hide with a lot of activity. Plain single color is boring. Hide
is hard to use for gussets because it will be oriented down on one side and up on another. Will work, but
just feels "funny" to me.
5. Zippers - Unless you like to tramp from one store to another, make your own up to length. The Stohlman
case making books are a great reference. Just get them all. Besides, those fabric store women are always
looking past me to see if the can help my "wife". Hey, I'M the shopper here. Men don't always get good
service in these places, now I know how some of you feel in AutoZone. I use the non-locking zippers only. I
wax them well with paraffin. Cement them with Barge to the gusset and sew tbem down. Ask your customer
how they want the zipper to work. Closed with the tab at the front or rear? Depends on which side they will
mostly carry it, and right vs. left handed. Pulls can be easily made from scrap chap material to complement
the color of the bag. Just bleed knot them on.
6. Dee rings - Yes you can use regular old DickIe plate rings. I like to use a solid ring. Most of the time I use
a more elegant dee. I take a regular #5 buckle in brass or SS and cut out the tongue. You can do the same
with heel bar belt buckles as well. They just look a lot nicer. The clip and dees in one inch from most of our
suppliers are OK. Recently J switched to SS strap and dees from Weavers. Again a nicer look. J like to
attach the smaller dees with a leather tab through a slot and secured with a Chicago screw. It is nicer than
myoId way of tabs on the outside.
7. Conchos - Yes J use a lot of Chicago screws. Reason, many of my customers are western people or like
the look. They may have conchos already, they may ask me to get some and put them on, they are easily
changed if they tire of that pattern., etc. Whether using Chicago screws or conchos, tighten them down and
use some LocTite. Yes there are other products, but LocTite is proven, and can be undone, unlike JB Weld
(true story).
8. Shoulder straps - Everyone likes a different length, one size does not fit all. Ask and measure! Save a
cow! Doe they want a traditional strap of tooled leather and liner? On soft sides I usually will use a piece of
chap leather twice the width of the shoulder strap, cement the whole flesh side, and roll it for the edges to
meet in the middle. Press it down well and sew a tooled and edged strip over the seam side. Make the strip
long enough to fold around the dee and Chicago screw back into itself. Wide and comfortable.
9. Handles - shape - round, thin and flat, wide and flat'? length - short for hand carry, medium for over the
shoulder/under the arm, longer yet for over the shoulder/hand on the bottom? Ask and measure. You will
still never be right, but may be closer. Another reason for Chicago screws, easily changed out. I made a
purse that the owner wanted the entire shoulder strap one inch shorter, would raise the purse Y2 inch total.
Could you even notice that? So I said "OK, Mom, I'll do it".
9. Thread color - Light color to frame a tooled yoke, color match the color of the chrome tan? Use yours
and the customers preference here. I usually sew in zippers to match the gusset if possible. Try to keep a
theme going. Don't use a lot of different colors and look like a "parts" car.
10. Binder Clips·vs. Glue - I like to use medium binder clips for both fitting and holding things in place to
sew. You can use contact cement, but it shows up if you get it inside the stitch line on inside out sewn
projects. You can't cement bair on hide inside out, binder clips are easily moved to refit something, and
hold some things under tension while sewing that cement won't. On the traditionally sewn things I fit with
clips make registration marks, remove clips, then apply cement, and still probably will use clips to hold
everything while sewing. My preference and experience.
 These cutting patterns are what I use generally as a guideline. Actually many
customers will request a change in dimensions. Some taller, wider, deeper, smaller, the
customer can decide based on a pattern size_ When something is changecL it will
generally affect the other pieces also. Test fit before you secure anything.
The choice ofleather, tooling, finishes, handles, is entirely up to you. Everyone has
different styles, and customer preferences dictate a lot of what we do. Some of the
pictured tooling patterns I don't do anymore, have either progressed, felt it getting "stale",
or just plain don't like them now. Inspiration for these came come from many sources,
and I really recommend developing a style you like and you will progress on your own.
Al Gould said something in a class I took - "Don't draw a pattern you can't cut, and don't·
cut a pattern you can't tool". I will add a bit to it, "but every once in a while, draw one at
the outside edge of your cutting ability, and cut one that is at the edge of your tooling
ability", that is how to progress. Ertloy the patterns and, if you have any problems, contact
me. Thanks,

Bruce Johnson
[email protected]
 1. After cutting all pieces, I tool and edge the yokes, slick the edges, oil or whatever, and apply a finish .
. I have found the acrylics to be most durable finish for me.
2. I sew the yokes to each side piece, securing while sewing with either contact cement or binder clips.
They are positioned to leave about a % inch margin around the yoke to sew the gussets to.
3. I punch the slots and Chicago screw holes for the dee ring holders. Next I will edge my dee ring
leathers, round the ends, and test fir to see where to punch the holes for the Chicago screw to go
through to have a tight fit. I do not like the dee rings to be real loose to start with. Then go back and
insert the holders around the dee, through the slot, and secure with the CS. The more punching and
securing you do before the bag is made up, the easier. Fold the dee rings down to avoid sewing through
them.
4. Prepare the zipper to length, and fold the gusset in half to establish a center point. Center the zipper
based on this, and cut two parallel lines ~ inch apart. I leave a 3 inch tab attached at the ends, and cut
out the center portion. The center portion will be saved t,o make a pull tab for the zipper later. The tabs
at the end are cemented, and then folded back to extend about ~ inch inside the gusset. The end of the
zipper sewing should catch the end of the tab to secure it. The tab is to hold while working the zipper,
just makes it easier. The zipper is cemented in place aI).dsewn with a complementary thread.
5. Now I test fit the gusset. I have centerlines marked on the edge of the front and back pieces as well
as the gusset. Putting the pieces grain side together, and line up the centering marks. I use binder clips
as I go to hold everything in place. On the bottom I overlap the gusset end and like to have a 5 to 6 inch
overlap. This will stiffen the bottom a bit, and add some body. I mark how much to trim off the gusset
ends to achieve this overlap. When I am satisfied the front and back are even and not skewed in relation
to each other I make registration marks on the edges of the gusset and panels to aid in lining it up again
later.
6. I trim the gusset ends to length, and sew a line across each end to close the overlap. I start and end
the sewing lines about % inches from each side. I now have a solidly sewn "loop" of gusset. UNZIP the
zipper. You will be sewing this project inside out, and will be bringing it out through the zipper. Using
the registration marks, clip everything back in place inside out. Make sure the dee rings are folded
down, and will not be caught in the sewing line. I begin my sewing on the bottom, and remove the clips
as I go. I sew this by eye, and leave a ~ inch border. I generally oversew about three inches to secure
the thread and melt the ends.
7. Carefully trim the excess leather off close to the thread, without cutting through the sew line.
8. Working carefully, gently begin to turn the bag right side out through the open zipper. I fmd it easier
to start at one end rather than the center. Be careful not to tension the ends of the zipper too much, or
scratch the leather on the zipper teeth. I then apply a fmal finish coat of Leather Sheen. Yes, I use it all
the time on chap leather and latigo for all my bags. Makes a very durable finish and resists water. A few
light coats.
9. Secure the handle of the length of your preference.
10. I usually stuff with small hand towels to "stretch and shape" the purse for a day or so. Just enough
to be firm and give a pleasant shape. That's it for this one!
Front and Rear Panels - Chap or Hair on Hide - two pieces - 9-Y2 x12 inches

Gusset - Chap - 40x6 inches

Tooling Yokes - two pieces - 4/5 -6/7 veg tan - SxII inches

14 inch closed end zipper

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 1. I groove with a narrow French edger the flesh side where the folds will be. I take out about a
half thickness or so. I accentuate the fold while still cased. I then do all the tooling, oiling, and
dyeing and allow to dry.
2. On the bottom I use a piece of 1/8 inch tempered Masonite as a stiffener between the body and
liner. I allow a % margin around the bottom section. I cement the stiffener in place.
3. I use a thin liner ofveg tan, and cement to only the bottom fIrst, I work the liner around the
stiffener with a bone folder, and then fold one side up 90 degrees and cement that side. Then lift
the other side 90 degrees and secure that as well. The liner should help hold up the sides and not
be wrinkled or buckled. Trim the lining flush now.
4. Punch slots and holes for the hardware for the handle holders. I also drill through the bottom in
a little at all 4 comers ofthe stiffener, and put feet on now. I use leather punchings for feet
secured with a brass Chicago screw. The post is to the outside.
5. Prepare the zipper, center it in the zipper gusset, cut the slot, leaving tabs as the soft side purse,
and cement and sew to the gusset.
6. Using the binder clips and center registration marks, start in the top center and begin securing
the gusset in place. When you are satisfied with the positioning and no twisting of the front or
back, make more registration marks and remove the clips.
7. I run a bead on contact cement around the edge of the liner and the gusset. Again secure to the
body using the registration marks and binder clips. I leave a lf4 inch overlap of the gusset material
when sewing.
8. After sewing, trim the overlap flush with the edge. Slick and fInish the edge, and apply the
overall finish of choice.
9. Install the handle of choice, bleed a string from the zipper slot cut out for a zipper pull, and
this is done.
Body of purse- 4/5 veg tan- 11x22-~ inches

Lining - 2/3 veg tan - approx 24x12

-Masonite 1/8 inch stiffener - 9-yz x5-YZ inches

Gusset - chap leather- 25x7-yz inches

Zipper - 15 inch closed zipper

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 1. One of the easier styles, used as a shopping bag. Splint boot bag, purse, etc.
2. The tooled portion is tooled, oiled, edged and fInished. The slots a cut fIrst, and the
appropriate holes for the Chicago screws punched. The dee rings Iuse on this one are the 1 inch
clip and dees, commercially available. Isandwich the clip portion between the tooled leather and
the chap leather body. lfthe customer wants a closure, Ihave used durable dot snaps and
magnetic catches, if so, install them now. The tooled panel will cover them.
3. The tooled portion is positioned on the panels, flush at the top, and a.% inch or so margin on
the sides. Secure with clips or cement and sew in place.
4. Another project sewn inside out. Secure the gusset to the panels with clips, and sew leaving a
'l2 inch margin. Iuse gussets a bit longer than necessary, and sew to the top edge of the panels.
Trim the excess leather and turn right side out. Trim the excess gusset length from each side. I
have done most of these with the raw edge of the chap leather exposed. For a more fInished look
and higher fee, leave a margin at the top as well, and roll the edge inside and sew a bead line to
have a cleaner look.
5. Punch only the Chicago screw holes for the clip and dees, not the slot.
6. Slip the clip between the two layers and secure with-the Chicago screw.
7. Apply the fInal fInish and appropriate length handles.
Panels - 4 oz Chap - Two pieces - 15x15

Gusset~- 4 oz chap - 4-1I2x43 inches

Tooling Panels - two pieces- 4/5 -6/7 veg tan - 7x7 inches
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First off, I have to share the background of this purse. The owner is the wife of a World
Champion bull rider, and one of the original PBR founders. She wanted a purse that screamed
"bullrider's wife" when she went to the PBR and NFR rodeo finals. Originally she wanted no
flap, just an open top. As expected, flopped open for all to see and remove contents. Then she
decided on a narrow strap over the top, still pooched open at the ends when carried. These were
all test fits by the way. Then went to a full width flap. It had a magnetic catch by this time, and
the pressure on the ends from the strap when carried worked against the flap and popped open
the catch at times. Soooo, we left a 1/2 inch gap at each end, and when it is picked up, the ends
butt up against the edge of the flap and close it up. Moral of the story, keep trying and be open
to customer expectations, but be able to adjust if it isn't right.

This purse now moves up the difficulty scale a bit. The gusset must be designed fITstas it tapers
in at the ends to accommodate the narrower width of the dee ring. This purse was also lined with
natural pigskin lining.
1. After cutting and cementing the lining in place on the parts, fit the dee ring onto the gussets. I
lined the folded over area with 2-3 oz commercial oak leather. Punch holes for the Chicago
screw and insert it now to help with the fitting process. Fold the gusset in half to establish a
center registration mark at the bottom.
2. I fit the front in place fITst. Start at the registration mark and clip the front in place (hair side
to hair side) until it gets in to the narrowing area of the gusset. This should be the same height
on both sides, mark it. Unclip and trim straight across the top of the front piece to the proper
height. I now use the front to make a matching pattern for the back. The flap is cut so that there
is 1/2 inch or so gap to the gusset. Sew it in place now. The two piece back and flap allow the
hair to lay properly.
3. This particular purse has spots the were an after thought, but not that big a deal to set them on
the heel of my shoeing anvil.
4. Now clip the front and back to the gusset, and binder clip heavily. Hair on hide tends to
really slip in one direction. Sew in place leaving a 12 inch or so margin, and trim the excess.
Turn right side out. As the original plan called for the big concho on the front, the prongs of the
"stud" portion of the magnetic catch is covered by the concho. Otherwise, bury it under the
lining earlier.
5. I finished the raw edges ofthe hide with a black dye first, and then light coats of Leather
Sheen. When the edge was pretty hard, I smoothed it with a worn fine grit sanding wheel on a
Dremel, redyed, and more Leather Sheen. Added an shoulder strap to match, and she loved it.
Panels - hide or chap - two pieces - 12x7 inches

Gusset - Hide or Chap - 5x32 inches

Flap - Hide or Chap - 9x9-~ inches

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Although this bag really is more of a train case or cosmetic case, they have been used to carry
camcorders, and used as purses. They are pretty popular award items for barrel racings and queen
contests. I just make them, they can decide how to use them.
1. The body is tooled, oiled, and the zipper slot cut. This bag is stiff enough that no pull tab is
needed at the ends of the zipper slot. I cement the zipper in place to the top, and then cement to
the lining. With no cement on the bottom side ofthe zipper, it does not stick to the lining. I then
sew the zipper in place through both layers of leather. Using a very sharp scalpel blade or point
knife I cut out the zipper slot from the lining. I use the stitch line as a guide, and lift the leather to
the blade once I get a slot cut. Don't cut deep enough to get the zipper cloth. I finish the cut with
a sharp French edger.
2. I then lace (deluxe version) or sew the edges together with a double crossing continuous
cruciate stitch on the back. The top and the bottom are fitted in place, and trimmed as necessary
to achieve a tight, but not bulging fit. Tool the top now to match. I mark and punch slots for the 1
inch clip and dees for the handles to attach to. I sandwich the dees between the top and lining.
Lining is cemented to the top and bottom. I tack them in place with a few basting stitches every
so often. I sew in a groove, and mark the top and side with a stitch marker to be even on both
places.
3. I butt the inside ofthe lid and bottom against the inside of the top and bottom, and sew by
hand, piercing the awl at an upward angle from the front. By piercing from the front I can keep
my stitches more even, and have the same number of stitches, even going around the comers on
top. You will have to go through some holes from the back twice, similar to a good job on a
cantle binding of a saddle. I start and end my stitching in the back where it is less noticeable.
4. I punch four holes in the bottom comers and use punchings and brass Chicago screws for feet.
5. The handle is fastened to the top with Chicago screws. I use a scrap of chap leather to make a
zipper pull, bleed it on and I am set.
5. Again, Leather sheen is the finish of choice for me. More time in this one due to the hand
sewing, but easy enough to do and get proficient for other projects with square comers.
Body - 5/6 veg tan - 8x34 inches
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Body Lining - 2/3 veg tan - 9x35 inches

Top and bottom pieces - two pieces - 1202 skirting - 11x7-Y2 inches

Top and bottom piece lining - two pieces - 11-Y2X 8-Y2 inches
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OK, here's the most requested. Also the most difficult to do the first time. This one has the owner's
cattle brand, and one of myoid flower comers. She liked the light oil ,and highlight border dyeing. A
little sunlight, and this will really look good, and not so "new".
1. Tool, dye, oil, edge and finish the front and rear yokes. Clip or cement them onto the front and rear
panels, and sew them down. On the side view this purse narrows down at the top and the top gusset is
about 2 inches wide. I leave about 2 inches of excess gusset material at each end.
2. Center the gusset and cut out a zipper slot that almost, but not quite reaches each side of the panels.
Make registration marks. There is no need for the zipper slot tabs, as you can hold the dee ring area to
pull against when working the zipper. Cut the slot and install the zipper.
3. I fit the bottom gusset next, and also allow for about 2 inches extra at each end. Make registration
marks when everything lines up.
4. Using a bunch of clips secure the panels to the bottom gusset inside out, and make sure everything is
lined up and square. Sew right up to ~ inch from the points on the top comers of the panels.
5. Center the top gusset, and sew in place, meeting the previous stitch line from the bottom gusset at
each end. Trim the excess leather away from outside of the stitch line.
6. The gaps where the top and bottom/side gusset meet are still open. I done three things. First - sew
them closed from the inside. The dee ring and hanger are then handsewn on the ends through the open
zipper when the bag is turned right side out. Second option - turn the bag inside out, slip the dee ring
hanger between the two gussets and sew across from the outside. I don't like to have a sewn line
transverse to the tension, so I don't like this, but a heck of a lot of commercial bags are done like this
and hold up. Thirdly, turn the bag right side out, bring the excess gusset material up through the gap.
They will be flesh to flesh, roll the top comers inside until they make the width of the dee ring. This
will roll the edges all the way down on both top and side gussets. You may need to trim a bit at the to
get them to roll enough without overlapping. Cement each tab on the flesh side and roll the edges
inward to the correct width. This will make a tab that tapers (narrows) toward the top to the width of the
dee. Do the same with the other matching gusset end, i.e. match the top gusset excess to the side gusset
excess. Do the same on both ends. Make sure the resulting tabs are the same height. I sew the gusset
tabs together with a matching thread on the sides and top. Then I make a tooling leather dee tab to
match the concho size, and either sew it down or just trust the concho and screw to hold it in place. This
last method has become my preferred one, just a little neater look, but more finesse.
7. Because of the tapering gusset to the top, you need the zipper to be as long as possible. This will
make it easier to turn the bag right side out, and also easier to get a hand into to use.
Panels - Chap or Hide - Two pieces - 11-1I2x9 inches

Top Gusset - chap - 3x20 inches

Bottom gusset - chap - 32x6 inches

Yokes - 4/5 to 6/7 veg tan - 6-l/2x 10 inches

Closed end zipper - 11 inches

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