This document provides instructions for making a knife block in the shape of a warrior figure that can hold 15 knives. The knife block is made of plywood and filled with lead beads for stability. Templates are provided to cut out the warrior shape and base. Knives are inserted into slots cut into the warrior's hands and other areas. Adjustments may be needed for knives where the handle is heavier than the blade. The overall design improves on a basic knife block to look more realistic and hold more knives.
This document provides instructions for making a knife block in the shape of a warrior figure that can hold 15 knives. The knife block is made of plywood and filled with lead beads for stability. Templates are provided to cut out the warrior shape and base. Knives are inserted into slots cut into the warrior's hands and other areas. Adjustments may be needed for knives where the handle is heavier than the blade. The overall design improves on a basic knife block to look more realistic and hold more knives.
This document provides instructions for making a knife block in the shape of a warrior figure that can hold 15 knives. The knife block is made of plywood and filled with lead beads for stability. Templates are provided to cut out the warrior shape and base. Knives are inserted into slots cut into the warrior's hands and other areas. Adjustments may be needed for knives where the handle is heavier than the blade. The overall design improves on a basic knife block to look more realistic and hold more knives.
This document provides instructions for making a knife block in the shape of a warrior figure that can hold 15 knives. The knife block is made of plywood and filled with lead beads for stability. Templates are provided to cut out the warrior shape and base. Knives are inserted into slots cut into the warrior's hands and other areas. Adjustments may be needed for knives where the handle is heavier than the blade. The overall design improves on a basic knife block to look more realistic and hold more knives.
Knife blocks are awesome - just grab the knife you - Scroll saw (alternatives: Jigsaw, CNC mill, ..) need without searching through your drawers and start cutting. I got my basic inspiration for this project - Wood glue from the instructable "knife block" by Christian Knuell, which reminded me of the so called "voodo knife - Lead beads to fill the base (nails, nuts or any other block". (Just type this into google images...) heavy materials will do the trick as well)
However, I wanted to improve this design to look - Sand paper
more realistic and to increase the number of knifes it can hold. - Double-sided adhesive tape
The resulting knife block resembles a spartan like - Magnet - 6mm diameter warrior and can hold 15 knifes of different sizes - Drill Here is the list of materials and tools I used: - Power tool with a drum sanding kit (can be - 6 mm and 12 mm ply wood (any other type of wood accomplished with other tools as well) should be okay as well)
- Spray adhesive
Knife Block - Warrior: Page 1
Knife Block - Warrior: Page 2 Step 1: Making the Base
Since the knife block is supposed to hold a high use your scroll saw to cut out the three parts. number of knifes, I wanted the base to be heavy to achieve a good stability. Therefore, the base will be Glue the bottom layer and the middle layer together. filled with lead beads (or any other heavy objects you Once it is dry, fill the lead beads into the hollow space have available, like nails or nuts). and glue on the top layer.
Print out the attached pdf files for the base and use After drying, sand all sides of the base until spray adhesive to attach them to 6 mm (bottom and satisfactory. top layer) and 12 mm (middle layer) ply wood. Then
For the warrior part print out the attached drawing and section of both drawings directly on the lines. This use spray adhesive to attach them to 6 mm (2 side way you should be able to properly align the second layers) and 12 mm (middle layer) ply wood. Check half of the drawing. out the instructions on the first pdf file. Then use your scroll saw to cut out the three parts. Glue all three layers together and be careful to properly align the three layers. During gluing press Since the warrior fills out the whole A4 page it is together all parts of the warrior using clamps (legs, possible that your printer can't handle the drawing. arms, head....). For that case, I additionally attached the warrior in two parts on two separate pages. Print out both of (The hands of the warrior on the images look different them and first attach one half onto your piece of from the drawings because I made the design on the wood. Then, cut some holes into the second half of go. I provided the final design on the drawings for the drawing. Place these holes in the overlapping you.)
Use a 5 mm bit to drill a hole into the middle layer just work out the hands shape to properly fit to this knife above the head of the warrior (see drawing). Drill only handle. halfway through! Then fit the 6mm magnet into the hole. It should be a tight fit. You can use a vice or a When I was finished with this part, I noticed that the similar tool to press the magnet into the hole. In case wrist, which was going to hold the shield, was very you are using hard wood, you probably have to use a thin. Therefore, i drilled a 4mm hole into the arm until i 6mm drill. If necessary, use glue fix the magnet in reached the elbow. I then entered a 4mm brass rod place. into the hole and glued in in place to strengthen the wrist section. In the uploaded drawing, I made the Finally, use a power tool with a drum sanding kit to wrist thicker, so it should be fine. However, if you work out the warriors hand. Start working from the don't trust your wood, make the wrist even thicker or side where you placed the magnet. Sand down do the same as me. roughly until the middle of the wood (~12 mm). Depending on the shape of the knife handle, which you plan to place into the warriors hand, you can
Sanding down the sides of the warrior part can be a width of the scroll saw blade. Fold the stripe along the pain, because you want to progress carefully to middle and then remove the back of the adhesive preserve all details. However, there is a nice trick. tape. Place the scroll saw blade with the flat side into the middle of the sanding paper and fold it again. There are special sanding strips available for your scroll saw. (enter "sanding stripes scroll saw" into Now you can mount the self made sanding strip in google) I found them to be somewhat expensive. As your scroll saw and sand down the sides of the an alternative you can make your own sanding warrior until satisfactory. You will probably have to stripes. replace the sand paper on the scroll saw blade a couple of times during this process. If a lot of glue Apply double sided adhesive tape onto the back of leaked out of the sides during gluing, you might want some sanding paper. Take a preferably wide scroll to remove the dried glue with a knife before you start saw blade. Cut of a stripe of the sanding paper with the sanding. adhesive tape with a width of roughly 6 times the
Knife Block - Warrior: Page 8
Knife Block - Warrior: Page 9 Knife Block - Warrior: Page 10 Step 4: Adjustments for Your Knifes
The good thing about such a knife block is that it the blade. For such knifes I found it best if the slits looks really nice. The bad thing is that it is not suited are about 1-2 mm longer than the height of the blade. for all knifes. When the knife blade is heavier than the For example, I have some knifes with a blade height handle or if both parts are in balance (as it should be), of about 23 mm. For these I made the slits 25 mm the knife will sit nicely in the knife block. However, long. when the knife handle is heavier than the knife blade, the knife tends to fall out of the knife block. Therefore, Print out the attached pdf, take a pen and adjust the it is highly recommended to adjust this final part for length of the knife slits according to what you think is your knifes. best for your knifes.
Focus on the knifes where the handle is heavier than
1 1
1. balanced knife 1. knife handle is heavier than the knife blade
Print out the attached pdf files and use spray Use 3mm drills to drill holes at each end of the slits adhesive to attach them to 6 mm (front and back on the front layer. Stay just within the black rectangle layer) and 12 mm (middle layer) ply wood. If you of the slits. Be careful to drill in a 90° angle. For the adjusted this part for your knifes in the previous step, two biggest slits in the middle, use 4mm drills. use the adjusted drawing for the front layer. Then, use a scroll saw to cut out the slits by cutting Then use your scroll saw to cut out the three parts. along the lines and connecting the two holes of each Do not remove the drawing from the front layer after slit. cutting! Sand the insides of the slits by using the self made Glue all three pieces together and be careful to sanding stripes for your scroll saw or by folding some properly align the three layers. After drying, sand all sandpaper and pulling it forth and back through the sides of the shield until satisfactory. slits. Also, sand slightly the edges of the slits.
When you finished the base, the warrior and the Now you are done and can equip the warrior with shield part, check again if everything is sanded your knifes. properly. I also recommend to slightly sand all edges to prevent splintering later on. I left my knife block untreated because I liked the look of the pure wood. However, in a kitchen environment Check if all parts fit together. If not, do some more it might be better to apply varnish to protect the knife sanding/ cutting until all parts fit together nicely. block from water and fat...
Then glue the warrior onto the base. Make sure to Enjoy! align the parts in a 90° angle.
