A PROJECT ON

FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF

PURE HERBAL HAIR DYES

A PROJECT SUBMITTED TO PANJAB UNIVERSITY

CHANDIGARH

MASTER OF SCIENCE IN BOTANY

SESSION (2020-2022)

UNDER THE SUPERVISION OF

Dr. Madhumita Bhattacharjee

SUBMITTED BY
Akshita Kumari, Gurjeet Kaur, Shivani Kumari and Vedika
DEPARTMENT OF BOTANY PGGCG-11, CHANDIGARH
 CERTIFICATE-I

This is to certify that the project report entitled "Formulation and

Evaluation of pure herbal hair dyes" submitted for the degree of Master of
Science in the subject of Botany of Panjab University, Chandigarh is a
bonafide research work carried out by Akshita, Gurjeet Kaur, Shivani Kumari
and Vedika under my supervision and that no part of this report is submitted
for any other degree.

This assistance and help received during the course of investigation

have been fully acknowledged.

Major advisor
Dr. Madhumita Bhattacharjee
Department of Botany
P.G.G.C.G. 11, Chandigarh.
 CERTIFICATE-II

This is to certify that the project report entitled

"Formulation and Evaluation of pure herbal hair dyes"

submitted by Akshita, Gurjeet Kaur, Shivani Kumari and

Vedika to the Panjab University, Chandigarh in partial

fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of

Science in the subject of Botany has been approved by the

Student's Advisory Committee along with Head of Department

after an oral examination of the same.

Dr. Vishal Sharma

Head of Department
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

First and foremost, we pay our heartfelt thanks to the GREAT ALMIGHTY whose
blessings provided us the vigorous passion, uninterrupted strength and
indispensable patience needed to begin our project and end it successfully.

We express our sincere gratitude to Mrs. ANITA KAUSHAL, Principal, Post Graduate
Government College for Girls, Sector-11, Chandigarh, for giving the opportunity to
undertake my project in College.

The word " one who direct the path of process in angelic" are inadequate to express
by deep sense of indebtedness and gratitude to my supervisor Dr. Madhumita
Bhattercharjee, Department of Botany, P.G.G.C.G.-11, Chandigarh for her resolute
guidance, encouragement, abiding interest, constructive criticism, tremendous
enthusiasm and meticulous supervision through the period of my project work.
They have been the torchbearer and pathfinders in completing the project work.
We owe our all work to her. Their advice will pay a crucial role in fulfilling my dream
in future.

We wish to express our sincere thanks to Dr. Vishal Sharma (H.O.D. Botany
department, PGGCG-11, Chandigarh) for extending all sorts of required facilities
during this tenure of work.

We are also grateful to Dr.Anurita Sharma, Dr. Harsh Manchanda, Dr. Anju Pehwal
, Dr Amit Jakhal and Dr. Shikha Sharma for their help and supporting attitude.

Our special thanks to non- teaching staff of Botany department, for their time to
time help.
What we are today is due to our parents and family, they are our strength and
inspiration. This project is a mere token of love towards them. It is their true love,
noble guidance and sincere efforts that shaped our lives. We owe them everything
than the mere words of thanks and it is indeed impossible for us to return all their
favour and amazing contribution.

All may not have been mentioned, but none is forgotten from our heart.
INDEX
CHAPTER TITLE PAGE NO.

1. Introduction 4-12

1.1 Types of Hair Dyes 13-14

1.2 Commonly used chemicals in chemical based hair 15-20

dyes & their ill effects

2 Harmful effects of chemical hair dyes 21-24

3 Objectives 25-26

4 Materials and Method 27-30

4.1 Description of plants along with utility used in 31-120

herbal hair dye preparation

4.2 Procurement of plant material 121-125

4.3 Drying of the plant material for formulation of 126-129

herbal hair dyes
4.4 Formulation of Herbal Hair Dyes 130-133

5 Evaluation of Herbal Hair Dyes 134-153

6 Application of the formulated Dyes 154-157

7 Result 158-179

8 Discussion 180-186

9 Conclusion 187-188

10 References 189-202
 1

ABSTRACT
 2

Hair is connected to beauty, personality, age, nationality, beliefs and more. Hence
people spend a lot of money for its care. The beauty of hair basically depends on
the individual’s health, diet, habit, climatic conditions and maintenance. As we age,
hair follicles make less of melanin which results in graying of hair. But now-a-days
graying of hair at age along with premature graying is a major problem affecting
the population at a large scale all over the world. Graying may occur due to various
internal and external factors. To address this problem, people use chemical hair
dyes, which have a negative impact on the health. Use of chemical dyes result in
unpleasant effects like irritation, breakage of hair, skin discoloration, cancer etc.
Due to a long list of harmful effects of chemicals dyes ,herbal hair dyes are being
preferred on a large scale because of it’s advantages. The word herbal is a symbol
of safety in contrast to the synthetic one which has adverse effects on human
health.

Marketed herbal hair colors contain crude plant powders which require processing
prior to use, making it inconvenient to the consumer. These products are purely
herbal and also have poor stability. Hence, there was a need to develop a
formulation of hair dyes with various plant sources which is ready to use with good
stability.

In the present project a number of natural plants like Lawsonia inermis,

Phyllanthus emblica, Indigofera tinctoria, Rosa chinensis, Hibiscus-rosa-sinensis,
Camellia sinensis, Ocimum sanctum, Beta vulgaris, Murraya koenigii, Cinnamomum
zeylanicum, Coffea arabica, Psidium guajava, Punica granatum, Trigonella
foenumgraecum, Azadirachta indica, Eclipta alba, Acacia concinna were selected
for the formulation of herbal hair dyes .

The objective of this research project was aimed at the preparation of natural
herbal hair dyes directly from the natural plants and plant parts and its effects
were observed on the wool fibres. The evaluation of formulated herbal hair dyes
were done on various parameters like organoleptic, physiochemical,
phytochemical , patch test, rheological evaluations to test its efficiency as well as
quality. The marketed herbal hair dyes were used as a control and for comparison
 3

with the formulated natural herbal hair dyes. The dyeing efficiency of natural
herbal hair dyes are better than the marketed herbal hair dyes.

In conclusion the results obtained from the formulated natural herbal hair dyes
were excellent in colorant and these hair dyes were safe without any side-effects
as compared to the marketed herbal hair dyes being purely herbal in nature.
 4

INTRODUCTION
 5

Today, most of the human beings are very careful about their beauty and the hair
play an important role in this. The beauty of hair basically depends on the
individual's health, diet, habit, climatic conditions and maintenance. Hair is
important to an individual's physical appearance and self-perception [Pandhi et al.,
2013]. Now - a - days people face various hair disorders mainly the premature
graying of hair. Hair disorders in all age groups may arise because of chemical
agents, toxins, microbes, present in the atmosphere and also due to physical
factors, malnutrition and environmental factors [ Slodowink et al.,2007 ] . Ageing
of hair follicle refers to reduced melanocyte function and decreased in hair
production and graying of hair [Trueb, 2006]. Hair graying is a natural age-
associated feature [Trueb, 2009]. Nearly 70% of human beings above 50 years
struggle with the problem of graying of hair. The term premature hair graying (PHG)
is used when it occurs before the age of 20 years [Fig-1.1]. Although graying of hair
is deeply influenced by heredity [Andrzej et al., 2005] but premature
depigmentation in adults is mainly due to variety of other factors as illness, some
specific drug , job stress etc. [Kumar, 1994 ; Happle, 1990]

Fig-1.1 Premature hair graying

 6

Hair graying is a ubiquitous, visible, and early feature of human biological ageing
[Sullivan et al., 2021; Tobin, 2011]. The time of onset of hair graying varies
between individuals, as well as between individual hair follicles, based on genetic
and other bio behavioral factors [Akin et al., 2016; Bernard, 2012]. But most
people experience depigmentation of a progressively large number of hair shafts
(HSS) from their third decade onward, known as achromotrichia or canities
[Panhard et al., 2012]. The color in pigmented HSS is provided by melanin granules,
a mature form of melanosomes continuously supplied to the trichocytes of the
growing hair shaft by melanocytes of the hair follicle pigmentary unit (HFPU)
[Tobin, 2011]. Age-related graying is thought to involve bulb and outer root sheath
melanocyte stem cell (MSC) exhaustion [Commo et al., 2004; Nishimura et al.,
2005], neuroendocrine alterations [Paus, 2011] and other factors, with oxidative
damage to the HFPU likely being the dominant, initial precursor [Arck et al., 2006;
Paus, 2011; Trueb , 2010]. While loss of pigmentation is the most visible change
among graying hairs, depigmented hairs also differ in other ways from their
pigmented counterparts [Tobin, 2015], including in their growth rates [Nagl, 1995],
HF cycle, and other biophysical properties [Van, 2004]. Although hair graying is
generally considered a progressive and irreversible age-related process, with the
exclusion of alopecia areata [McBride, 1990], cases of drug-and mineral deficiency-
induced depigmentation or repigmentation of hair have been reported [Kavak et
al., 2005; Kobayashi et al., 2014; Komagamine et al., 2013; Reynolds et al., 1989;
Ricci et al., 2016; Sieve, 1941; Yoon et al., 2003] reflecting the influence of
environmental inputs into HFPU function [Paus et al., 2014]. The reversal of hair
graying has not been quantitatively examined in a cohort of healthy adults, in
parallel with molecular factors and psychosocial exposures. The influence of
 7

psychological stress on hair pigmentation is debated, but poorly documented

aspect of hair graying.

People don’t like the gray hair, so to cover them they use various hair dyes. Hair
dye or hair coloring is the practice of changing the hair color. Hair dyes are mostly
chemical based dyes used by men as well as women. The popularity of these
chemical based dyes is increasing day by day, as they cover gray hairs or change the
color of hair which is regarded as more fashionable or desirable in today’s world.

History of hair color is the matter of chemistry. The first safe commercial hair
color was created in 1909 by French chemist Eugene Schuller, using the chemical
Paraphenylenediamine ( PPD ). Although the chemical based dyes are in fashion
now – a- days but synthetic hair dyes have a long list of harmful effects. Synthetic
dyes which are available in market , use combination of peroxide and ammonia
which alters the structure of hair and damage it and also causes allergic reactions .
Synthetic hair colorants usually involve the use of chemicals like 1- 3%
phenylenediamine , ammonia, peroxide, toluene, resorcinol (Fig.1.2). These
chemicals are capable of covering the grey hair by imparting color to them.
Inorganic salts like aluminium sulphate , copper sulphate , lead acetate and
potassium dichromate acts as mordants are also added to chemical based dyes to
improve and protect the color imparted by dye. Use of these chemicals can result
in serious side effects , including temporary skin irritation , allergy , hair breakage,
skin discoloration and even can induce cancer .
 8

Fig-1.2 Toxic chemicals in chemical hair dye

Because of many harmful effects of synthetic dyes, their toxicity and an increased
environmental awareness in the last few decades, the use of synthetic dyes is
gradually decreasing . Hence, the rate of use of herbal hair dyes has been increased
being safe in nature.

India is richly endowed with vast variety of natural flora. It is estimated that, in India
there are about 500 varieties of plants that can yield natural herbal hair dyes
[Gupta ,1993]. Natural herbal hair dyes are preferred because of its less side-
effects. Herbal hair dyes without any adverse effect are used for healthy hairs. Dyes
from the plant sources are easily derived without any chemical processing [Rangari
;2004] and they are less expensive, safe and efficient. Many plants were used for
the purpose of hair dyeing in India before the invention of modern chemical based
dyes. For example Indigo, known as initial fabric dye, could be mixed with henna
 9

to make different light brown to black shades of hair dye [Natural colorants and
dye , 2004].Emblica officinalis have been used to dye hair and promote hair growth
since many years[ Niteshwar et al., 2006 ] . Natural herbal hair dyes also include
many pigments such as carotene [ Golden], lutein [ yellow], anthocyanins [red] ,
etc.

Natural herbal hair dyes which are derived from naturally occurring sources is
increasing fastly due to their natural goodness and lack of side effects . The plants
that were selected for the present project viz Lawsonia inermis, Phyllanthus
emblica, Indigofera tinctoria, Rosa chinensis, Hibiscus-rosa-sinensis , Camellia
sinensis , Ocimum tenuiflorum , Beta vulgaris, Murraya koenigii, Cinnamomum
zeylanicum , Coffea arabica, Psidium guajava, Punica granatum, Trigonella
foenumgraecum, Azadirachta indica, Eclipta alba, Acacia concinna ( Fig-1.3 ) are
well known AYURVEDIC HERBAL DYES traditionally used as good hair colorant and
for growth [ Ashok et al., 2007 ] .
 10

Fig- 1.3

SOME COMMONLY USED INGREDIENTS OF THE HERBAL HAIR DYE

 11

BENEFITS OF NATURAL HERBAL HAIR DYES

Natural herbal hair dyes are environmental friendly, low toxic and less allergenic.
Herbal hair color is used in various disorders such as dandruff, premature graying
and head lice etc. [Nasar,2013] . Natural hair dyes solve the problem of the
destruction of scalp and hair cuticle, which are safe for use [Iqbal et al., 2016].

Natural dyes act as mordants they contain tannins. Tannins create affinity between
dyes and hair and thus improve color and fastness of dye. Natural hair dye solve
the problem of irritation, scalp hair damaging, which are safe for use and does not
have the problems of staining skin, itching and hyper sensitive reaction. The natural
brown hair dye possess full penetration to be used as coloring agent and safe hair
colorant [Thomas et al., 2009]. Henna based brown hair dyes that impart natural
color to the hair and spreads evenly across the scalp of hair and leave behinds
fragrant soft and manageable hair.

The shades produced by natural dyes/colorants are usually soft, lustrous and
soothing to the human eye. Generally natural dyes do not cause health hazards.
They sometimes act as a health-care substance. Furthermore, the use of natural
dyes offers no disposal problems.

The current preference for naturally derived colorants is due to their healthfulness
and excellent performance. The conventional methods of hair coloring by the use
of natural colorants has been made in this study to formulate a gel for hair dye
using herbal extracts and other additives from plant source having good coloring
property that is safe [ Mallya ,2015]. A systematic scientific approach toward the
active constituent of natural dyes can prevent the hair damage .
 12

As global scenario is now changing towards the use of safer, nontoxic natural
product with traditional use, attempts have been made in the present project is to
develop herbal hair dye devoid of any chemical, containing few traditionally used
herbs and compare it with marketed chemical based herbal hair dye. Herbal dyes
containing extracts of different plants e.g. Lawsonia inermis, Phyllanthus emblica
Eclipta alba etc. have been prepared, characterized and compared with marketed
products for dyeing as well as growth enhancing activity’’ [ Porwal ,2011 ; Banerjee
2009; Baziga et al ., 2011]. Furthermore, natural dyes cannot entirely replace
synthetic dyes, but they have their own place in the market.
 13

TYPES
OF
HAIR DYES
 14

1.Permanent Hair Dyes

These types of hair dyes penetrate through hair shaft, reaching the cortex. They
have to be touched up atleast or once in three months. Most of permanent dyes
use ammonia to penetrate the hair shaft and increase pH levels. All the permanent
hair color products and lighteners contain a developer or oxidizing agent and an
alkalizing agent.

2.Semi Permanent Hair Dyes

Semi permanent hair color are able to partially penetrate the hair shaft that’s why
the hair dye may last for 4-6 shampooing or few weeks. Theses contain No or very
low levels of developers , peroxide or ammonia. However, it may contain the toxic
compound like ; PPD .

3.Temporary Hair Dyes

It is available in various forms including rinses ,shampoos , gels, sprays and foams.
These typically brighter and more vibrant than Semi-Permanent and Permanent.
The pigment molecules in temporary hair dyes are large and cannot penetrate
cuticle layer. Remaining colored particles absorb to the hair shaft and easily
removed with single shampooing. It lasts for about few hours to one day.

4.Demi-Permanent Hair Dyes

Demi-permanent hair colors are permanent hair colors that contains an alkaline
agent other than ammonia and while always employed with the developer, the
concentration of hydrogen peroxide in that developers may be lower than used
with a permanent hair color.
 15

SOME
COMMONLY
USED
CHEMICALS IN
CHEMICAL
BASED HAIR
DYES & THEIR
ILL EFFECTS
 16

1.Metal oxides

Metal oxides such a titanium dioxide and iron oxide, are also often used as
pigments . Chemicals used in hair dyes act as modifiers ,which stabilize the dye
pigments or otherwise act to modify the shade . The modifiers may bring out color
tones ,such as green or purple , which complement the dye pigment.

Effect of metal oxides

It is known that heavy metals are important to the human body but if they are
found in high concentration, they can cause may health problems that we do not
need. Continuous usage of such compounds containing dye on natural hair causes
so many side effects such as skin irritation, erythrema, loss or damage of hair and
skin cancer. A research on the content of heavy metals in samples of some hair
dye was studied. Through this study it was found that concentrations of these
heavy metals are very small and have no direct effect on human body when using
or dyeing hair for the first time but with repeated use of such types of dyes and in
long run it can lead to health problems. For example; the lead in body will either
increase in tissue especially bone tissues and in the kidneys, liver, pancreas and
lung tissues. Pregnant women and young children especially vulnerable to this
because lead can pass the placenta and enter the fetal brain.
 17

2.Ammonia
It is a common ingredient of many modern-day hair colors, which serves the
purpose of breaking through the hair cuticle and allows the color to deposit itself
there. This can also degrade the natural structure of hair, leading to dry, brittle, dull
and un-healthy looking hair.

Effects of Ammonia
Ammonia is an alkali that is used to increase the pH level of your hair during
coloring process. It helps in opening up the cuticles so that the dye is deposited on
the cortex (the inner of your hair) . When ammonia is dissolves in water it forms
ammonium hydroxide which is the potential skin irritant. When it comes in contact
in skin, it can cause skin burns, irritation to nose and eyes. When ammonia dyes are
used repeatedly, they tend to damage the cuticle, allowing the moisture to escape.
This causes frizzy , dry and brittle hair when ammonia is applied to hair. There is a
chance that it can enter the blood stream through the scalp. The ammonia vapors
that the salon professionals are exposed to can cause lung problem sinuses , throat
infection and eye infection. The penetrated ammonia destroys an amino acid called
tyrosine in hair. Tyrosine regulates the production of melanin which helps hair hold
on to color. When tyrosine is destroyed your hair ability to hold any color is
compromised eventually. Ammonia can be harmful to ecosystem too. It can
damage crops , forest and can be dangerous for aquatic species. [Ahlaam et al.,
2022]
 18

3.Para phenylenediamine(PPD)
It is an organic compound and is a derivative of aniline. It is a chemical substance
that is widely used as a permanent hair dye .PPD provides a natural look to hair.
Hydrogen peroxide bleaches the hair and helps PPD, one of the primary coloring
agent, to be trapped in hair.

Effects of PPD

PPD a key ingredient of many synthetic hair dyes is known to trigger allergic rashes
in many people . PPD also causes dermatitis around lips, reddening and swelling
of scalp and face etc. The clinical features of hair dye dermatitis vary from mild
contact dermatitis localized to one body site (hand dermatitis or disseminated
generalized dermatitis to severe life threatening complications such as contact
angioedema, rhinitis/ bronchospasm/ asthma and renal toxicity. [Rehman et al.,
2018]

Hair dyes contain PPD at various concentration ranging from 0.2 % to 3.75% . The
European commission directive 2009 regulation directs that the maximum
concentration of hair dye substances in oxidative hair dyes should not exceed 2%.
PPD is a portent contact sensitizer even in low concentration and considered a best
indicator and useful patch test screening allergen for hair dye dermatitis. Lin and
Soloder reported that PPD become mutagenic only when it was oxidized . PPD is
usually mixed with H2O2 for hair dyeing . Oxidized PPD becomes a
diaminophenazines, which are extremely mutagenic. [Rehman et al., 2018]
 19

4.Toluene

Toluene is one of the toxic chemicals used in hair dyes. Toluene-2,5-diamine ,

toluene-2,6 diamine sulphate and toluene-3,4 diamine are diaminotoluenes used
as colorants in permanent hair dyes are tints.

Effects of Toulene

Exposure to toluene can result in temporary effects such as headaches, dizziness

and cracked skin as well as more serious effects such as reproductive damage and
respiratory complications. It can also cause eye and nose irritation, tiredness,
confusion, europhia, dilated pupils, tears, anxiety, fatigue, insomnia, kidney
damage. Workers may be harmed from exposure to toluene. Toluene vapours is
mildly irritating to the skin, eyes and lungs.
 20

5.Resorcinol

In permanent hair dyes, resorcinol reacts with a developer (usually peroxide) to

bond the dye permanently to hairs. Resorcinol is usually used with other
chemicals to get a specific dye colour. Its use in most permanent hair colours is
due to its efficiency in colouring hair and also become it is an inexpensive
ingredient.

Effects of Resorcinol

Resorcinol is harmful to the hair follicles and scalp. Not only it is strong irritant,
but also sensitises the system leading to allergic reaction like contact dermatitis.
The primary health concerns regarding use of resorcinol include skin and eye
irritation. Another major health concern regarding resorcinol is the possibility of
hormonal imbalance and fertility complications. Studies have shown that
exposure to resorcinol may disrupt thyroid function, resulting in hyperthyroidism.
 21

HEALTH
HAZARDS OF
CHEMICAL
BASED HAIR
DYES
 22

1) Hair Damage
Permanent hair color often contains ammonia and peroxide. Ammonia breaks
through the hair shaft and peroxide neutralize the natural pigment in hair,
stripping away color. This process of relaxing the hair cuticles to reach the cortex
of hair and bleach out its natural pigment is hair damage.

2) Allergic Reaction
It is because of paraphenylenediamine (PPD) of permanent hair color .People with
skin problem like eczema, psoriasis and contact dermatitis are particularly prone
to reaction due to PPD present in dye in certain individual the use of hair coloring
can result in allergic reactions , skin irritation, symptoms of these includes redness,
itching, burning sensation, which sometimes not appear at the time of application
and processing of dye but can arise after hours or even a day later.

3) Conjunctivitis
If precaution has not been taken, while applying hair dye, it comes in contact with
eyes which leads to conjunctivitis, pink eye or inflammation and discomfort.
 23

4) Asthma

Asthma patient must stay away from hair dyeing as they contains PPD, Persulphate
(found in bleaching agents ) and ammonia . Constant exposure to these chemicals
can results in coughing, wheezing , lung inflammation, throat discomfort and
severe cases even Asthma attack [Jeswani et al., 2021].

5) Dermatitis
Scalp skin and beard skin are the reported side that are commonly affected due to
hair dye uses while hands and other body sides may be affected among persons
not using gloves while dyeing hair. Mild to moderate contact reaction such as
erythema, oozing and ulceration typically at the scalp margin and on the ears and
neck are common as a result of direct contact. [Ho et al.,2020 ] observed that hair
dye dermatitis primarily involved the face and neck (28% ) and hands (25%).
Airborne contact dermatitis , irritant contact dermatitis, photo contact dermatitis,
hand eczema ,lichenoid lesions and pigmentary changes were commonly observed
clinic pattern of hair dye dermatitis . [Gupta et al., 2015]
 24

6) Carcinogenicity of hair dye

Probable carcinogenicity potential of oxidative hair dye, its ingredients and their
derivatives draw the attention of toxicologist and epidemiologist for many years
because these oxidative hair dyes belongs to large family of aromatic amines which
covers known carcinogens like4-aminobiphenyl, benzidine and 2-naphthylamine.
The ability to caused cancer by oxidative hair dye and their ingredients was
detected by both industries and different researchers. The IARC of WHO and U.S
National Toxicology Program also explored the potent carcinogenicity of hair dyes.
[Rehman et al., 2018]

7) Hair Dye poisoning leading to critical illness neuropathy

Hair dye poisoning has been evolving as one of the significant causes of
intentional self harm in the developing world. Hair dyes contains PPD and a host of
other chemicals that can cause laryngeal edema, severe metabolic acidosis,
Rhabdomyolysis and acute renal failure.
 25

OBJECTIVES
 26

▪ To formulate the pure herbal hair dyes.

▪ To evaluate the physical properties of formulated hair dyes.

o Organoleptic evaluation of formulated hair dyes were evaluated.
o Patch test of formulated hair dyes were evaluated.

▪ To evaluate photochemical screening of formulated hair dyes.

▪ To evaluate rheological features of formulated hair dyes.

▪ To compare the formulated hair dyes with chemical based herbal hair dyes
available in market.

▪ To evaluate color imparting properties of formulated hair dyes.

▪ To find out the best formulation among the three formulated herbal dyes.

▪ To find out the least effected formulation among the three formulated
herbal hair dyes.

▪ To compare our herbal dye formulations with the two chemical based herbal
dyes available in the market.
 27

MATERIALS
AND
METHOD
 28

Melanin is a natural pigment that determine the color of hair. As we age, we lose
melanin in our hair as the follicles make less melanin. When the production of this
pigment slows down , hair turns gray or white. Although gray hair is characteristic
of ageing, colorless hair strands can appear at any age. Scalp hair often starts
graying at the temples and extends to the top of scalp.

Gray hair are not liked by people and therefore they are colored to get young look.
The most common method to cover grey hair is the use of chemical dyes, but the
chemical dyes has various health hazards. Due to a long list of harmful effects of
chemical dyes the present project has been planned with the aim to make pure
herbal hair dye using various natural plants and plant parts.
 29

List of ingredients used

1.Heena

2.Amla

3.Indigo

4.Rose

5.Hibiscus

6.Tea

7.Tulsi

8.Beetroot

9.Curry leaves

10.Cinnamon

11.Coffee

12.Guava

13.Pomegranate

14.Fenugreek

15.Neem

16.Bhringraj

17.Shikakai
 30

Sr.no Common name Botanical name Family Part used

1. HEENA Lawsonia inermis Lythraceae Leaves

2. AMLA Phyllanthus emblica Phyllanthaceae Fruit

3. INDIGO Indigofera tinctoria Fabaceae Leaves

4. ROSE Rosa chinensis Rosaceae Flower

5. HIBISCUS Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Malvaceae Flower

6. TEA Camellia sinensis Theaceae Leaves

7. TULSI Ocimum sanctum Lamiaceae Leaves

8. BEETROOT Beta vulgaris Amaranthaceae Fruit

9. CURRY LEAVES Murraya koenigii Rutaceae Leaves

10. CINNAMON Cinnamomum Lauraceae Bark

zeylanicum

11. COFFEE Coffea arabica Rubiaceae Beans

12. GUAVA Psidium guajava Myrtaceae Leaves

13. POMEGRANATE Punica granatum Punicaceae Fruit peel

14. FENUGREEK Trigonella foenum- Fabaceae Seeds

graecum

15. NEEM Azadirachta indica Meliaceae Leaves

16. BHRINGRAJ Eclipta alba Asteraceae Leaves

17. SHIKAKAI Acacia concinna Fabaceae Pods

 31

DESCRIPTION OF
PLANTS
ALONG WITH UTILITY
USED IN HERBAL
HAIR DYE
PREPARATION
32
 33

1. HENNA Botanical name- Lawsonia inermis

Family - Lythraceae

CLASSIFICATION

Kingdom-Plantae

Division – Magnoliophyta

Class - Magnoliopsida

Order-Myrtales

Family -Lythraceae

Genus – Lawsonia

Species – inermis

Morphology
Lawsonia inermis, also known as henna, the henna tree, the mignonette
tree, and the Egyptian privet [Bailey ,1976] is a flowering plant and one
of the only two species of the genus Lawsonia, with the other being
Lawsonia odorata. Henna is a small tree or large shrub, growing to six
meters high. It has lateral branches with leaves that grow in pairs, two
to four centimeters long. The leaves do not have high lawsone content,
and the branches do not have thorns.
Henna leaves have a red-orange dye, lawsone, and the highest dye
concentrationis in the petiole (the central vein). Young leaves have the
highest petiole dye content and the older leaves have lower dye
content. The flowers are quite small,grow in grape formations and are
extremely fragrant.
 34

Fig- 4.1 Fig- 4.2 Fig- 4.3

Flower of Henna plant Fruit of Henna plant Enlarged view of flower of

Henna plant
 35

Chemical Components of Lawsonia

Lawsone, Lawsone 1, 4-naphtha quinone; 2-methoxy-3-methyl-1,4-
naphthaquinone; flavonoids, coumarins, phenolic acids; 5-10% gallic acid,
carbohydrates and tannins.

Uses
❖ Lawsonia contains a coloring ingredient i.e. lawsone, a red orange colored
compound present in dried leaves of the plant .Lawsone acts as a non oxidizing
hair coloring agent at a maximum concentration of 1.5% in the hair dyeing
product.
❖ Flavonoids and gallic acid in henna act as organic mordants to the processof
coloring.
❖ Carbohydrates provides the henna paste a suitable consistency for
adherence to the hair.[ Patel et al.,2013]
❖ Natural henna is usually hypoallergenic but allergic reactions occurred in mixed
types including black henna. This occurs due to the presence of chemical
compounds as para-phenylenediamine¸ 2-nitro-4- phenylenediamine¸ 4-
aminophenol and 3-aminophenol [Saif ,2016]. Hennahas also antifungal activity
against Malassezia species (causative organism of dandruff).
❖ Henna prevents premature hair fall by balancing the pH of the scalp and
graying of hair. [Padmaja,2013]
❖ Henna was used as a hair dye.
❖ Henna is great for making hair bouncy, shiny and healthy whenever applied
regularly.
❖ Henna is famous for repairing damaged hair by acting as a natural
conditioner.
❖ The natural properties of henna promote hair regrowth.
❖ Henna powder can be used to produce an oil that nourishes and developshair
growth.
❖ Henna hair dye stimulates growth and prevents baldness in both men and
women.
 36

Distribution of henna in India

Fig- 4.4
37
 38

2. AMLA Botanical name- Phyllanthus emblica

Family - Phyllanthaceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom-Plantae
Division - Magnoliophyta
Class - Magnoliopsida
Order-Malpighiales
Family - Phyllanthaceae
Genus – Phyllanthus
Species – emblica

Morphology
It is a tree of small or moderate size with a greenish-grey bark and greenish-yellow
flowers, formed in axillary clusters. It is a deciduous plant. The feathery leaves are
linear-oblong , with a rounded base and obtuse or acute apex, subsessile, closely
set along branchlets, light green and resembling pinnate leaves. It has a crooked
trunk and spreading branches. The flowers are greenish yellow, borne in axillary
fascicles, giving way to a globose fruit. The tender fruits are green, depressed,
globose or oblate, indented at the base, smooth, fleshy and shining. Fruits have six
softly defined ridges and six seeds and are green at first, become whitish or a dull,
greenish-yellow or more rarely, brick-red as it matures. They are hard and
unyielding to the touch. Ripe fruits are astringent, extremely acidic and bitter. They
are capsular (drupaceous) berries with a fleshy exocarp.
The edible part of the fruit is the mesocarp and the endocarp forms the hardstone
which encages the seeds. [Khan,2009]
 39

Fig- 4.5

Amla plant

Fig- 4.6

Fruit of Amla plant

 40

Chemical Components of amla

Polyphenols, vitamin C, vitamin A, amino acids (alanine, lysine, proline, aspartic
acid, glutamic acid) , proteins, carbohydrates, calcium, potassium, magnesium
,iron, carotene, alkaloids, gallotannins, pectin.

Uses
❖ Amla oil is most commonly used to promote hair and scalp health.
❖ Berries obtained from amla enhances the absorption of calcium, helping to
make healthier bones, teeth, nails, and hair.
❖ It maintains the hair color and prevents premature graying, strengthens
the hair follicles. [Singh ,2011]
❖ The fruit extract is useful for hair growth and it reduces hair loss
[Dahanukar et al.,2000]
❖ Amla has antibacterial and antioxidant properties that can help promote
the growth of healthy and lustrous hair [Turner,1996]
❖ It prevent fungal and bacterial hair and scalp infections.
❖ Prevent dandruff and dry scalp.
❖ Prevent parasitic hair and scalp infections ,like lice infections.
❖ Amla oil is a powerful inhibitor of 5-alpha reductase. Therefore it reduces
baldness [Kumar et al., 2012]
❖ Amla makes the hair darker by allowing for better pigmentation of cells.
❖ It is a rich source of vitamin C and antioxidants which Fight free radicals and
reduce the external damage to hair. It improves overall appearance of hair.
 41

Distribution of Amla in India

Fig- 4.7
42
 43

3. INDIGO : Botanical name-Indigofera tinctoria

Family - Fabaceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom-Plantae
Division - Angiosperms
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Fabales
Family - Fabaceae
Genus – Indigofera
Species – tinctoria

Morphology
Indigofera tinctoria, also called true indigo, is a species of plant from the bean
family that was one of the original sources of indigo dye. It is an herbaceous,
annual, biennial or perennial plant, with a small bushy shrub. The young branches
are covered with a white pubescence, consisting of appressed hairs. The leaves are
light green, alternate, compound imparipinnate, with 4-6 pairs of leaflets. [
Antoine et al., 1990] . The leaflets are opposite, obovate to elliptical. The petiole
and rachis are covered with appressed hairs and dug with a furrow on the upper
side. The flowers of papilionaceae type, with pink or white corolla, are grouped in
axillary sessile racemes. The fruit is a linear pod containing 7 to 12 seeds.
 44

Fig- 4.8

Leaves of the Indigo plant

Fig- 4.9
Flower of the Indigo plant

Chemical Components of Indigo

The rotenoids deguelin, dehydrodeguelin, rotenol, rotenone, tephrosin and
sumatrol can be found in I. tinctoria. [Kamal and Mangla 1993]
 45

Uses
❖ Indigo is filled with numerous natural ingredients that help strengthen and
cover the greys of the hair.
❖ Organic dyes are made from the crushed leaves of the Indigo plant which
contains some good natural properties that make it a medicinal plant too.
❖ Indigo dye comes from crushed leaves of Indigo plant and is rich, dark blue
in color. It is used to color not only your hair and beard but also almost all
kind of blue denim, some fabrics, silk and wool. Indigo dye is a natural dye.
❖ Indigo dyes dye hair.
❖ Indigo grows with all the organic ingredients that can dye hair naturally in
shades of black and brown.
❖ It cleanses hair gently and helps in preventing dandruff and other scalp
infections.
❖ The natural ingredients of indigo deeply nourish the scalp and keep the hair
intact.
❖ By applying indigo regularly, the hair can grow faster and can also treat
baldness.
❖ Indigo conditions and nourishes the roots of the hair and makes every
strand of hair stronger.
❖ Indigo not only enhances the hair color but also soothes the hair and
scalp.
❖ Indigo makes your hair tangle-free that is easy to manage and also it
provides a natural shine leaving your hair thicker and stronger.
 46

Distribution of Indigo in India

Fig- 4.10
47
 48

4.ROSE Botanical name-Rosa chinensis

Family - Rosaceae

CLASSIFICATION

Kingdom- Plantae
Division - Magnoliophyta
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Rosales
Family - Rosaceae
Genus – Rosa
Species – chinensis

Morphology - The rose is an ornamental shrub with upright or climbing stems

usually prickly. Leaves are alternate, compound, oddly pinnate with stipules
adherent to the leaf stalk. The sharp growths along a rose stem, though commonly
called "thorns", are technically prickles, outgrowths of the epidermis . Rose prickles
are typically sickle-shaped hooks. Flowers are solitary (single) or in corymbs
(cluster). Calyx is five lobed, either simple or compound. Petals & Sepals are
generally five; however Rosa sericea has only four petals and sepals. Carpels are
many and are inserted at the base of the calyx tube and with simple projecting style
and stigma. Fruits are known as hips. Each hip comprises an outerfleshy layer, the
hypanthium, which contains 5–160 "seeds" . Seeds are hard and fresh seeds have
dormancy.
 49

Fig- 4.11

Description of the Rose plant

Fig- 4.12

Rose flower
 50

Chemical Components of Rose

Fragrant alcohols geraniol and L-citronellol and rose camphor, an odorless solid
composed of alkanes, [JStewart 2005] , β- Damascenone, Vitamin C, Flavonoids,
Phenolic acids, Sterols [Zhao 2012] , Traceelements (copper, zinc, magnesium and
calcium) [Jin 2017]

Uses
❖ Rose water is a mild astringent which may help to reduce oiliness and
dandruff.
❖ It has anti-inflammatory properties, which make it beneficial for certain
scalp conditions, like psoriasis and eczema.
❖ Rose water has the ability to calm down frizz and add shine.
❖ It repairs hair damage.
❖ The petals of a rose has antioxidant and antimicrobial agents. These
cleanse and nourish the scalp, allow the follicles to grow thick, sturdy hair
strands.
❖ Rose petals also serve as a potent natural conditioner and prevents
potential outbreaks of dandruff.
❖ Because of the presence of vitamins A, B3, C and E , rose water improves
hair growth.
❖ Rosewater is distilled so it makes the hair softer and fuller.
❖ It is extremely hydrating as it is a good source of minerals and vitamins,
therefore is perfect to use in hair.
 51

Distribution of Rose in India

Fig - 4.13
52
 53

5. HIBISCUS Botanical name- Hibiscus rosa-sinensis

Family - Malvaceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom- Plantae
Division - Magnoliophyta
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Malvales
Family - Malvaceae
Genus – Hibiscus
Species – rosa-sinensis

Morphology
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, known colloquially as Chinese hibiscus, China rose,
Hawaiian hibiscus, rose mallowand shoeblack plant. It is a bushy, evergreen shrub
growing , with glossy leaves. The flowers are solitary with brilliant red color . The
5-petaled flowers are with the orange-tipped red anthers. At the bottom of every
hibiscus bud is the calyx, which is green in color. The pointed ends of the calyx are
called the sepals. The root is a branched tap root. The stem is erect, green,
cylindrical and branched. The leaf is simple, with alternate phyllotaxy and is
petiolate. The leaf shape is ovate, the tip is acute and margin is serrated. Venation
is unicostate reticulate. Free lateral stipules are present.
 54

Fig- 4.14
Hibiscus Flower
 55

Fig- 4.15
Stamens and carpels of Hibiscus

Chemical Components of Hibiscus

Tannins, anthraquinones, quinines, phenols, flavanoides, alkaloids, terpenoids,
saponins, cardiac glycosides, protein, free amino acids, carbohydrates, reducing
sugars, mucilage, essential oils and steroids [ Kumari , 2015] [Kaur , 2015] [Prasad
, 2014] [Tiwari , 2015] [Divya , 2013] cyclopropanoids, methyl sterculate, methyl-
2-hydroxy sterculate, 2- hydroxysterculate, malvalate and beta-sitosterol,
cyanidin 3-sophoroside [Khare , 2007].
 56

Uses

❖ Hibiscus is responsible for hair growth as it is rich in amino acids, a prime

building block of keratin.
❖ It boost the formation of new hair follicles, thereby stimulating hair growth
(because of Flavonoids ) thus helping cover bald patches.
❖ It also thickens the hair strands to reduce hair fall.
❖ The mixture of Hibiscus flower and leaves is moisture rich and nourishes
the scalp therefore also works as a scalp moisturizer.
❖ The mucilage content in the leaves and flowers gives a slimy consistency
that protects hair from drying out and makes the hair soft and smooth.
❖ It has astringent properties that reduce excess oil secretion, thus curing
dandruff and flakiness.
❖ Hibiscus flowers can prevent premature greying and boost the natural
color of the hair, as it is an excellent source of antioxidants and vitamins
that are needed to produce melanin.
 57

Distribution of Hibiscus in India

Fig- 4.16
58
 59

6. TEA Botanical name-Camellia sinensis

Family - Theaceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom- Plantae
Division - Magnoliophyta
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Theales
Family - Theaceae
Genus – Camellia
Species – sinensis

Morphology

Camellia sinensis is an evergreen tree or shrub that attains a height of 10

- 15 m in the wild and 0.6 - 1.5 m when cultivated. The leaves are light green,
short stalked, coriaceous, alternate, lanceolate, serrate margin, glabrous or
pubescent beneath, varying in length from 5 - 30 cm and about 4 cm width.
Mature leaves are bright green colored, smooth and leathery while young
leaves are pubescent. [Ross , 2005] . Young leaves appear silver because they
bear downy hairs on the surface [Gruenwald, 2007] . Flowers arewhite fragrant,
found in solitary or in clusters of two or four. Flowers bear numerous stamens
with yellow anther and produce brownish red capsules [Ross, 2005] . Fruit is a
flattened, smooth, rounded trigonous three celled capsule, seed solitary in each,
size of a small nut . [Biswas, 2006]
 60

Fig- 4.17
Tea leaves

Chemical Components of tea

Polyphenols,caffeine (1-5%), xanthines, theobromine and tannins including
flavonoids, polyphenols, fats and vitamin C [Chevallier, 2000] , Flavonols, flavones,
isoflavones and anthocyanins, theaflavinsand thearubigins.

Uses

❖ It enhances the hair color because of the presence of tannins.

❖ It contains theaflavins and thearubigins, which give a naturally dark color to
hair.
❖ It promotes the hair growth and keeps the hair and scalp healthy as it has
antioxidants and caffeine.
❖ Tea reduces hair loss in people as caffeine (found in tea) reach hair follicles
to block dihydrotestosterone (DHT) — a hormone linked to hair loss .
❖ It acts as a natural dye for hair.
❖ It prevents drandruff in the hair.
❖ It lengthens the hair producing phase of hair growth.
❖ It promotes shiny hair. It makes the dull hair shine.
 61

Distribution of Tea in India

Fig- 4.18
62
 63

7.TULSI Botanical name-Ocimum sanctum

Family - Lamiaceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom- Plantae
Division - Magnoliophyta
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Lamiales
Family - Lamiaceae
Genus – Ocimum
Species – sanctum

Morphology
Ocimum sanctum is an erect small annual plant . The stems are hairy and bear
simple toothed or entire leaves oppositely along the stem. The fragrant leaves are
green or purple, depending on the variety. Leaves have petiole and are ovate, up to
5 cm long, usually somewhat toothed. Flowers are purplish inelongate racemes in
close whorls. The small purple or white tubular flowers have green or purple sepals
and are borne in terminal spikes. The fruits are nutlets and produce numerous
seeds.

Fig- 4.19
Tulsi plant
 64

Chemical Components of tulsi

Oleanolic acid, Ursolic acid, Rosmarinic acid, Eugenol, Carvacrol, Linalool, and β-
caryophyllene, antioxidants ( beta carotene), vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin K,
folate.

Uses

❖ Tulsi keeps the scalp healthy. The anti-bacterial and anti-fungal benefits of
tulsi helps to keep the scalp healthy.
❖ The anti-inflammatory properties gives relief from dryness and itchiness of
the scalp.
❖ It provides optimal nourishment(by increasing the blood circulation) to the
hair follicles, rejuvenating them and inducing new hair growth.
❖ It reduces the hair loss.
❖ It prevents Dandruff.
❖ Anti-oxidant present in tulsi is very useful in treating premature graying of
hair as well as hair fall.
❖ It has been used to prevent hair loss or thinning and improve the thickness
of hair.
❖ It is also used for Frizz Control.
 65

Distribution of Tulsi in India

Fig- 4.20
66
 67

8.BEETROOT Botanical name-Beta vulgaris

Family - Amaranthaceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom- Plantae
Division - Magnoliophyta
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Caryophyllales
Family - Amaranthaceae
Genus – Beta
Species – vulgaris

Morphology

Beetroot is the large and fleshy root growing in the plant. It is a biennial plant and
is primarily grown for the thick fleshy taproot that forms during the first season. In
the second season a tall, branched, leafy stem arises to bear clusters of minute
green flowers that develop into brown corky fruits commonly called seed balls. The
taproot ranges in shape from globular to long and tapered.
Its superficial, thin and smooth skin has a wide range of colors, from purple-pink
and reddish-orange to a brownish tone. The oblong leaves typically have a red
petiole (leaf stem) and midrib and can be harvested continually throughout the
first growing season.
 68

Fig- 4.21
Beetroot plant body

Chemical Components of Beetroot

betalains (e.g., betacyanins and betaxanthins), flavonoids, polyphenols, SaJponins
[Baiao et al 2017] and inorganic Nitrate (NO3); it is also a rich source of diverse
minerals such as potassium, sodium, phosphorous, calcium, magnesium, copper,
iron, zinc .
 69

Uses

❖ The essential nutrients and vitamins found in beetroot strengthen hair

follicles and prevent hair loss.
❖ Beetroot is effective in treating dandruff and keeping the scalp clear as it is
rich in Vitamin C.
❖ The carotenoids present in beetroot is good for hair growth, as they
improve blood circulation in the scalp and the hair follicles from the roots.
❖ Prevents Premature Hair Graying.
❖ The abundance of vitamins and other nutrients in the beetroot strengthen
hair strands and prevent breakage as well.
❖ Its natural food pigments help to get a red or purple color effect on your
hair.
❖ Due to the high level of iron, electrolytes and potassium, it can repair flat
and lifeless hair that are prone to breakage.
❖ Beetroot contains active ingredients that restore natural shine and color of
your hair.
❖ Beetroot contains Vitamin A, C, E, and electrolytes that keep the hair
hydrated all the time by eliminating dryness. This retains the moisture of
the hair follicles and one gets the frizz-free hair.
 70

Distribution of Beetroot in India

Fig- 4.22
71
 72

9.CURRY LEAVES

Botanical name- Murraya koenigii

Family -Rutaceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom- Plantae
Division - Magnoliophyta
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Sapindales
Family - Rutaceae
Genus – Murraya
Species – koenigii

Morphology –
The plant is also sometimes called sweet neem. Murraya koenigii is semi
deciduous, unarmed aromatic small spreading shrub or tree with strong woody
stem but slender with the stem ,which is dark green to brownish in color. The tree
is 4–4.7m tall, the diameter of main stem is about 16cm. The plant produces small
white flowers which can self-pollinate to produce small shiny- black berries
containing a single, large viable seed. A fruit is a subglobose berry, purplish-black
when ripe; seeds upto 2. Leaves are pinnate, exstipulate, having reticulate
venation and having ovate lanceolate with an oblique base, with 11-21 leaflets.
 73

Fig- 4.23 Fig- 4.24

Flower of Murraya Berries of Murraya

Chemical Components of Murraya

Oxygenated monoterpenes, vitamin B complex , linalool (32.83%), elemol (7.44%),
geranyl acetate (6.18%), myrcene (6.12%), allo- ocimene (5.02), α-terpinene
(4.9%), and (E)-β-ocimene (3.68%) , Neryl acetate (3.45%), beta-carotene and
amino acids
 74

Uses

❖ Beta-carotene and amino acids in curry reduces hair loss and helps to
strengthen hair follicles, regenerate dormant follicles and regrow new hair.
❖ Curry leaves are a rich source of protein which is essential for hair growth
and maintaining overall health of hair.
❖ Curry leaves benefit thin and falling hair and make it visibly fuller and better
and one can get stronger and longer hair.
❖ It helps to restore the natural pigment of the hair and turn grey hair dark
naturally because it contains darkening agents, antioxidants and vitamin B
complex.
❖ It prevents premature greying of hair as Curry have minerals like iodine,
selenium, zinc, and iron.
❖ Curry leaves help control frizz in hair.
❖ Curry leaves benefits the scalp and help maintain good hair health because
of its antibacterial, antifungal and cleansing properties.
❖ Amino acids present in the curry leaves help retain hair strength and hair
shine.
❖ Curry leaves, loaded with antioxidants and alkaloids, help repair hair
damage.
❖ Curry leaves contain natural ingredients that retain the lustre and shine of
hair.
❖ Its antioxidant properties prevent the dry hair.
 75

Distribution of Murraya in India

Fig- 4.25
76
 77

10.CINNAMON Botanical name-Cinnamomum zeylanicum

Family - Lauraceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom- Plantae
Division - Magnoliophyta
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Laurales
Family - Lauraceae
Genus – Cinnamomum
Species – zeylanicum

Morphology
Cinnamomum zeylanicum is a small, tropical, evergreen tree . Its bark, which
provides the world with the commonly known spice, cinnamon. Externally
cinnamon bark is yellowish brown while the inner surface is more darker. Leaves
on cinnamon plants are oval lanceolate, rough textured and short. The greenish
flowers on the plant have a characteristic odor whereas the fruit is one-seeded
berry of 1 cm size. Young leaves are red and mature to a deep green. The small
bisexual flowers are greenish to yellow and are borne in clusters. The fruit is a
dark drupe.
 78

Fig- 4.26
Plant body of Cinnamon

Fig- 4.27
Leaves of Cinnamon
 79

Fig- 4.28
Fruit of Cinnamon plant

Chemical Components of Cinnamon

Phenols (mainly eugenol around 5-10%) andterpenes, hydroxycinnamalaldehyde,
trans-cinnamic acid, cinnamyl alcohol and acetate, o-methoxycinnamaldehyde,
caryophylline , calcium oxalate and starch, antioxidants such as procyanidins and
trace amounts of coumarins, resinous compounds including cinnamaldehyde,
cinnamate, cinnamic acid, and numerous essential oils [Senanayake et al 1978]
 80

Uses
❖ Cinnamon can control hair loss and help prevent balding .
❖ Cinnamon essential oil improves hair length .
❖ Cinnamon contains procyanidins that possess anti-inflammatory,
antioxidant, and antifungal properties which protect the scalp and hair
from free radical damage, irritation, and inflammation, and also prevent
dandruff.
❖ Procyanidins were found to increase the anagen (active growth) phase
of hair.
❖ It has riboflavin, thiamine, niacin, vitamin A, and protein, which may also
enhance hair health .
❖ Cinnamon has the power to provide deep nourishment to the scalp and
hair follicles.
❖ The Cinnamon has great exfoliating benefits, which thoroughly cleanses
the scalp and remove all the traces of debris, thus it keeps the scalp
healthy and unclog hair follicles.
 81

Distribution of Cinnamon in India

Fig- 4.29
82
 83

11.COFFEE Botanical name-Coffea arabica

Family - Rubiaceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom- Plantae
Division - Magnoliophyta
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Rubiales
Family - Rubiaceae
Genus – Coffea
Species – arabica

Morphology
Coffee plants are small evergreen shrub often with multiple stems and smooth
leaves. The leaves are opposite ,oval in shape and dark, glossy green and are
acuminate tipped and short petioled . The corolla of flower tubular in shape and
calyx is small and cup-shaped .Coffee plants produce clusters of cream- white
flowers and the flowers are fragrant. Fruit, commonly referred to as a berry, it is
green in begning but ripens to a crimson red and turns black when dry. It contain
drup type fruit and the shape of fruit is ellipsoidal or spheroidal. In each fruit 2
locules are present and it contain 1 seed in each chamber. Seeds are green in color
while seperating from the plant. The inner surface of seed is deeply grooved .
 84

Fig- 4.30
Flower of Coffee plant

Fig- 4.31
Berries of Coffee plant
 85

Chemical Components of Coffee

Caffeine, tannin,fixed oil and proteins,sugars in the form of dextrin, glucose and
chlorogenic or caffeotannic acid, nicotinic acid, pentosans, phenol ,pyridine and
valerianic acid, diterpenes, chlorogenic acids, and melanoidins.

Uses

❖ Coffee improves the blood circulation to the hair follicles which boosts the hair
growth. Increased blood circulation helps move nutrients to the hair roots,
resulting in healthier, shinier hair.
❖ Frizziness in hair can be prevented by coffee which will give softer and
smoother hair.
❖ Coffee is dark in color, so it acts as a stain on the hair , thus preventing greying
of hair.
❖ Coffee has the potential to improve the overall health of hair.
❖ The antioxidants and other chemicals present in coffee are known to be great
stimulants for the scalp thus promoting hair growth.
❖ Coffee can enhance your hair texture.
 86

Distribution of Coffee in India

Fig- 4.32
87
 88

12.GUAVA Botanical name-Psidium guajava

Family - Myrtaceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom- Plantae
Division - Magnoliophyta
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Myrtales
Family - Myrtaceae
Genus – Psidium
Species – guajava

Morphology

Guava fruit is often regarded as “Queen of fruits” . It is a fast growing evergreen

shrub or small tree that can grow to a height of 3-10 m. Flowers with 4–5 petals,
but also often with 10 petals placed in two series of five. Petals are obovate, white,
pubescent. Stamens numerous , with much pollen and tipped with pale-yellow
anthers .The trunk is slender, covered with a smooth green to red brown bark that
peels off in thin flakes. The leaves grow in pairs, opposite each other. The flowers
are white in color, solitary or in 2-3 flower clusters borne at the axils of newly
emerging lateral shots. The fruit is a fleshy, round to pear shaped, and their pulp
contains many small hard seeds , pyriform or ovoid berry [Orwa et al 2009] . Fruit
peel can be smooth, rough, or bumpy and develop pale yellow, pale yellow-
greenish, dark yellow, orange–green, dark green, or red at maturity. The skin color
of berry is yellowish to orange. The flesh can be white, yellow, pink or red, sour to
sweet, juicy and aromatic [Ecocrop, 2015; Orwa et al 2009; Soetopo, 1991] .
 89

Fig- 4.33
Leaves of Guava

Fig- 4.34
Flower of Guava
 90

Chemical Components of Guava

Potassium, Nitrogen ,Ascorbic acid, phytochemicals, such as , avicularin,
apigenin, guaijaverin, kaempferol, hyperin, myricetin, catechin, epicatechin,
chlorogenic acid, epigallocatechin gallate, and caffeic acid, vitamins-C, B ,
calcium, phosphorus, sulphur , sodium , iron, boron ,magnesium, manganese and
zinc [Singh 2005]. Polyphenolic compounds, like quercetin and other flavonoids,
and ferulic, caffeic, and gallic acids [Chen et al.2007 ] [Farag et al. 2020] . They
include triterpenoids, sesquiterpenes, glycosides, alkaloids, and saponins, folic
acid .They contain fat, protein, carbohydrates, ascorbic acid, and gallic acid
equivalents (GAE)/g total phenolic compounds [Shabbir et al. 2020] .
 91

Uses

❖ It is a source of antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-microbial

properties, which help to maintain a healthy scalp.
❖ The huge quantity of vitamins B and C found in the leaves can help to
nourish the follicles and aid hair growth.
❖ Leaves have the ability to stop hair loss and make it grow back with vigour.
❖ It also helps to blacken the white hair.
❖ The analgesic, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties
present in guava leaves can help to maintain optimum scalp health and
treat dandruff.
❖ The vitamin C content improves collagen activity aiding in hair growth.
❖ The lycopene content gives protection from sun’s UV rays.
❖ Guava leaves contain vitamin B and C, which help boost collagen activity
required for hair growth.
❖ Massageing improves blood pressure, which helps the follicles receive more
nutrition.
❖ Leaves are rich in vitamins A and C, folic acid, copper, potassium, fibre,
manganese, flavonoids and other phytochemicals, which are beneficial for
hair growth and controlling hair loss.
 92

Distribution of Guava in India

Fig-4.35
93
 94

13.POMEGRANATE Botanical name- Punica granatum

Family - Lythraceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom- Plantae
Division - Magnoliophyta
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Myrtales
Family - Lythraceae
Genus – Punica
Species –granatum

Morphology
The pomegranate is considered a shrub, which has abundant foliage, and a height
around 5 m. The pomegranate tree is branched and spiny with glossy, leathery, oval
to oblong leaves that grow in whorls of five or more on the branches. The tree
produces bright red flowers singly at the tips of the branches and a rounded
hexagonal fruit with a thick pink-red skin. Leaves are dark green, glossy, simple,
opposite or in whorls, small and somewhat narrow, oblong to oval, clustered on
short branchlets. Branches are slender and somewhat thorny. Pomegranate fruits
are berries, brownish red to purple-black, with a protruding calyx at the blossom
end. The skin is leathery. The flesh is a juicy, edible, reddish pulp surrounding
numerous, small, dark seeds. The inside of the fruit is separated into compartments
by white spongy tissue. Each compartment contains seeds and pulp.
 95

Fig-4.36
Pomegranate plant

Fig-4.37
Leaves of Pomegranate
 96

Fig-4.38 Fig-4.39
Flower of Pomegranate Pomegranate Fruit

Chemical Components of Pomegranate

Pectin, sugars, citric acid, ascorbic acid, flavonoids, anthocyanins, punicic acid,
ellagitannins, alkaloids, fructose, sucrose, glucose, simple organic acids and
hydrolysable tannins, namely ellagitannins, gallotannins, flavonoids, lignans,
triterpenoids, phytosterols, fatty acids, organic acids and phenolic acids, punicic
acid, tannin.
 97

Uses

❖ The punicic acid in pomegranate strengthens the hair follicles by

stimulating circulation and improving blood flow to the scalp.
❖ Pomegranate oil is used as a hair massage oil to smoothen frizzy hair
and deeply condition it.
❖ The pomegranate is packed with antioxidants that make hair follicles
stronger, and improve blood circulation in the scalp that help to
stimulate hair growth.
❖ It helps to moisturize extremely dry and irritated scalp.
❖ Pomegranate peels hydrates and protects the scalp from pollutants
in the environment.
❖ Its natural UVA and UVB ray-blocking agents prevent ageing in hair
and keeps the hair shiny and soft.
❖ It keeps the hair frizzle free and untangled.
❖ It prevents hair loss as it helps in strengthening hair follicles.
❖ It prevents dandruff and gives a much cleaner look.
❖ It reduces split ends , single strand knots, hair breakage.
❖ It also reduces grey hair.
❖ It gives reddish black tinge to the hair.
 98

Distribution of Pomegranate in India

Fig- 4.40
99
 100

14.FENUGREEK Botanical name- Trigonella foenum-graecum

Family - Fabaceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom- Plantae
Division - Magnoliophyta
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Fabales
Family - Fabaceae
Genus – Trigonella
Species – foenum-graecum

Morphology

Fenugreek is an erect, smooth, herbaceous plant that can grow up to a height of

40-80 cm [Ecocrop, 2017]. It is taprooted. Its stems are erect, sometimes branched.
The leaves are alternate, compound, trifoliolate, light green in color. The leaflets
are oval, hairy on their lower face. The flowers are papillonaceous, borne in leaf
axils, white, lemon-yellow or purplish blue in color [Ecocrop, 2017]. The fruits occur
as straight or sickle-like , long, thin and pointed, and contain 10-20 seeds. The seeds
are oblong or square, green-olive or brownishin color, with a very strong and spicy
odour [Ecocrop, 2017; Alaoui, 2005].
 101

Fig- 4.41
Description of Fenugreek plant

Fig- 4.42 Fig- 4.43

Fenugreek leaves Fenugreek seeds
 102

Fig- 4.44
Fenugreek flower

Chemical Components of fenugreek

Flavonoids, alkaloids, coumarins, vitamins, and saponins; the most prevalent
alkaloid is trigonelline and coumarins include cinnamic acid and scopoletin.
[Ouzir et al.2016], Antecedent, iron ,potassium, nicotinic acid, proteins,
lecithin.
 103

Uses

❖ Fenugreek seeds contain high levels of proteins that helps in hair

growth.
❖ It contains Vitamin C that boosts the immune system and Fights hair
fall.
❖ High levels of iron in fenugreek seeds is essential in improving the
blood circulation that boosts the scalp and hair health.
❖ Large amount of potassium helps to prevent premature greying of
hair.
❖ It is also beneficial for hair fall and dandruff because of its high level
of protein.
❖ It enhance the growth of hair because of the presence of Nicotinic
Acid.
❖ Fenugreek seeds contains lecithin which helps in nourishing the hair
and provides strengthen to hair follicles.
❖ Methi contains a component called Antecedent which is a hormone
that is responsible for improving hair growth and rebuilding the hair
follicles.
❖ Fenugreek is antifungal and anti-inflammatory, which relieves
irritating scalp and eliminates infections and it prevents dandruff.
❖ It has a compound called musilase that smoothes the tangled hair.
❖ The minerals present in fenugreek makes the hair shiny and imparts
softer texture to hair.
❖ Fenugreek is a great source of protein and amino acids, which helps
to repair the hair shaft damaged due to dehydration, chemicals, sun
damage.
❖ It boosts the cuticle integration in the hair shaft, thus promoting
thicker hair growth.
 104

Distribution of Fenugreek in India

Fig- 4.45
105
 106

15.NEEM Botanical name- Azadirachta indica

Family - Meliaceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom- Plantae
Division - Magnoliophyta
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Sapindales
Family - Meliaceae
Genus – Azadirachta
Species – indica

Morphology
Neem is a medium-sized tree, reaching 15 to 30 m in height, with a large attractive
rounded crown . It is mainly evergreen but sometimes shed its leaves during the
dry season . Neem has a deep taproot and is a mycorrhizal- dependent species. The
bark is grey, becomes fissured and flakes in old trees. [Orwa et al., 2009; Puri,
1999]. The branches are numerous and spreading. The leaves are alternate,
petiolated, clustered at the end of the branches, unequally pinnate, glabrous and
dark glossy green at maturity, and bearing 10-20 leaflets. The leaflets are sickle-
shaped and slightly denticulate. The flowers are numerous, fragrant, white and
borne in large clusters. Neem fruits are 1-2 cm long drupes, smooth and green with
white milky juice when unripe, turning to yellow to brownwhen mature. They have
a thin epicarp, a mucilagenous fleshy mesocarp and a hard endocarp. They contain
a variable number of ovoid seeds [Orwa et al., 2009; Puri, 1999].
 107

Fig- 4.46
Neem plant

Fig- 4.47 Fig- 4.48

Leaves of Neem plant Fruits of Neem plant
 108

Fig- 4.49
Flower of Neem plant

Chemical Components of Neem

Fatty acids like linoleic, oleic, and stearic acid,limonoids, vitamin E, triglycerides,
antioxidants, calcium , azadirachtin and related limonoids, glycerides, diverse
polyphenols, nimbolide, triterpenes, and beta-sitosterol. [ Nimbolide ,2021] .The
leaves contain quercetin, catechins, carotenes, and vitamin C, carotene,
phosphorous, calcium. Nimbin, nimbanene, 6-desacetylnimbinene, nimbandiol,
nimbolide, ascorbic acid, n-hexacosanol and amino acid, 7-desacetyl-7-
benzoylazadiradione, 7-desacetyl-7-benzoylgedunin, 17-hydroxyazadiradione
and nimbiol [Ali,1993] [Hossain et al.2011] [Kokate et al.2010].
 109

Uses

❖ The regenerative properties of neem help in reducing hair fall. It

increasesthe blood circulation in the scalp and help in enhancing the
speed of hair growth.
❖ Neem is rich in antioxidants that reduces the action of free radicals
thatcause premature greying of hair.
❖ It relieves the itchiness, inflammation, and irritation associated
withdandruff, thus leaving a clean and healthy scalp.
❖ Neem treats the head lice.
❖ Neem contains fatty acids like linoleic, oleic, and stearic acid which
help the scalp to nourish thereby keeping the hair smooth. It
conditions the scalp and hair.
❖ It also improve the hair texture and keeps hair woes like thinning,
breakageand hair loss at bay.
❖ The high level of antioxidants in neem leaves prevent premature
greying of hair caused due to hormonal imbalance, sun damage and
stress.
❖ Neem leaves condition the hair from root to tip and makes it
healthy-looking and visibly soft and prevents dry and frizzy hair .
❖ It adds shine and smoothness to hair.
❖ It absorbs the excessive oil from the scalp.
❖ It detoxifies the scalp.
 110

Distribution of Neem in India

Fig- 4.50
111
 112

16.BHRINGRAJ Botanical name -Eclipta alba

Family - Asteraceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom- Plantae
Division - Tracheophyta
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Asterales
Family - Asteraceae
Genus – Eclipta
Species – alba

Morphology
Bhringraj is an annual herb. It is a creeping herb that grows to a height of 3
metres. Stems and branches are strigose and hairy. The leaves are opposite,
sessile, oblong-lanceolate and are also strigose and hairy. It has a long stalk and
white colored flowers which are solitary, winged, axillary ,ray flowers ligulate,
involucral bracts are present and about 6 to 8 mm in diameter. It has distinct
cylindrical and grey colored roots. Fruit is an achene. The achenes are
compressed and narrowly winged.
 113

Fig- 4.51
Flower of Bhringraj

Fig- 4.52
Fruit of Bhringraj
 114

Chemical Components of Bhringraj

Eclipta prostrata contains various phytochemicals, such as coumestans
(coumestan derivatives like wedololactone ,demethylwedelolactone, desmethyl-
wedelolactone-7glucoside ),polypeptides, polyacetylenes, thiophene derivatives,
steroids, sterols, triterpenes, and flavonoids.[Chung et al. 2017]. Ecliptal, β-
amyrin, luteolin-7-O-glucoside, hentriacontanol, heptacosanol, stigmasterol,
alkaloid ecliptine , wedelic acid, apigenin, luteolin, b-amyrin.

Uses

❖ Bhringraj increases blood circulation to the scalp and roots, which

promotes hair growth. This activates the hair follicles, which enhances
hair growth.
❖ It is an excellent remedy for stress-related hair loss. It contains various
minerals and vitamins that help to reduce the breakages of hair and
prevent hair loss. It is one of the natural therapy to prevent hair fall.
❖ Bhringraj has anti-inflammatory and antifungal properties that help to
reduce dandruff.
❖ Bhringraj oil can easily penetrate the scalp and moisturize your dry scalp.
❖ It contains active ingredients named – haritaki and Jatamansi, which are
extremely beneficial in maintaining the natural color of hair and prevent
premature greying.
❖ It plays a pivotal role in treating and preventing baldness.
❖ It makes the hair lustrous and shiny as it is rich in nutrients which provide
deep conditioning to hair.
❖ It helps to darken the hair .
 115

Distribution of Bhringraj in India

Fig- 4.53
116
 117

17. SHIKAKAI Botanical name: Acacia concinna

Family - Fabaceae

CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom- Plantae
Division - Tracheophyta
Class – Magnolipsida
Order- Fabales
Family - Fabaceae
Genus – Acacia
Species – concinna

Morphology

Shikakai is a woody climber, shrub, or small tree up to 5 m tall, with numerous

spines. [ Maslin et al.,2019] The branches are thorny and have brown smooth
stripes with pink flowers. Leaves are double pinnate like a fern but rounder in
shape. Cream to pale-yellow flowers, though buds are red to purplish- red and
when the flowers are open they appear cream. The seed pods are distinctive.
When fresh, they are smooth, thick, and fleshy; however, when they dry, they
become wrinkled, blackish, and very hard. [ Maslin et al.,2015]. Pods are thick,
somewhat flattened, stalked, 8 cm long, 1.5-1.8 cm wide.
 118

Fig- 4.54
Flower of Shikakai

Fig- 4.55 Fig- 4.56

Seed pods of Shikakai Leaves of Shikakai

Chemical Components of Shikakai

Lupeol, spinasterol, acacic acid, lactone, and the natural sugars glucose, arabinose and
rhamnose. It also contains hexacosanol, spinasterone, oxalic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid,
succinic acid, ascorbic acid, and the alkaloids calyctomine and nicotine. Bark and pods have
saponins which form the foam.
 119

Uses
❖ Shikakai conditions and detangles the hair, leaving it soft and shiny after a
wash.
❖ It acts as a natural astringent for the hair, giving it necessary mass and
bounce. Regular use of shikakai adds volume and strength to the hair
strands and minimizes hair fall.
❖ It is also effective in reducing dandruff and other scalp problems and guards
against the ill effects of pollution, leaving the hair and scalp healthy and
manageable.
❖ Powder of bark, leaves or pods is used as hair conditioner. It cleanses the
hair, removes excess oil and dirt, makes hair softer .
❖ It strengthens the hair roots and promotes hair growth.
❖ Shikakai has the antifungal and anti-microbial property that helps in
removing the hair lice .
❖ It helps in retaining the youthfulness of black hair color naturally and
prevent hair from premature greying.
❖ Shikakai powder absorbs easily into the hair and gives natural, darker,
thicker and shiny hair.
 120

Distribution of Shikakai in India

Fig- 4.57
 121

PROCUREMENT OF
THE STUDY
MATERIALS
 122

A) Procurement of plant materials for the preparation of pure herbal hair

dyes

S. No. PLANT MATERIAL SOURCE OF PROCUREMENT

1. Henna Botanical garden of college

2. Amla College campus

3. Indigo Authorized shop, Nayagaon

4. Rose College campus

5. Hibiscus College campus

6. Tea Authorized shop, college campus

7. Tulsi Herbal garden of the college

8. Beetroot Fruit shop of the college

9. Curry leaves Herbal garden of the college

10. Cinnamon Authorized shop, sector 45

11. Coffee Authorized shop, sector 45

12. Guava College campus

13. Pomegranate Fruit shop of the college

14. Fenugreek Authorized shop, sector 45

15. Neem College campus

16. Bhringraj Authorized shop, sector 45

17. Shikakai Authorized shop, sector 45

 123

B) Procurement of marketed herbal hair dyes

The two marketed herbal hair dyes were designated as C1 and C2 respectively for
control purpose and for comparison.

S. No. Dye Procured from

C1. Khadi gramodyog mehndi Authorized shop, sector 45

C2. Nupur henna Authorized shop, sector 45

Fig - 4.58-C1 Dye Fig - 4.59-C2 Dye

 124

Fig- 4.60 Fig- 4.61

Powered form of Marketed herbal hair dyes

• Ingredients of the Marketed herbal hair dyes

Dye Herbal ingredients Chemical ingredients

C1 Henna leaves, neem leaves, amla, brahmi, Paraphenylene diamine,

bhringraj, tulsi, bhilawa, shikakai, methi sodium perborate, tartaric
(Khadi gramodyog
seeds, jamun guthli acid
mehndi)

C2 Henna leaves No chemical additives

(Nupur mehndi)
 125

Fig -4.62

Ingredients of the marketed herbal hair dye C1

Fig- 4.63

Ingredients of the marketed herbal hair dye C2

 126

DRYING OF THE PLANT

MATERIALS FOR THE
FORMULATIONS OF
PURE HERBAL HAIR
DYES
 127

Fig-4.64 Fig-4.65
Curry Leaves Hibiscuss Petals

Fig-4.66
Heena Leaves
 128

Fig-4.67 Fig-4.68
Amla Fruits Shikakai

Fig-4.69
Cinnamon
 129

Fig-4.70 Fig-4.71
Guava Leaves Tulsi Leaves

Fig-4.72
Bhringraj Leaves

All the plant materials were collected , dried and powered for the
formulations of pure herbal hair dyes .
 130

FORMULATIONS
OF THE
HERBAL HAIR DYES
 131

FORMULATION OF THE HERBAL HAIR DYES

All the above ingredients which were collected , dried and powered were
then mixed in different proportions to prepare different formulations of the
pure herbal hair dyes.

Three formulations were prepared and were designated as F1, F2 & F3

respectively. The marketed chemical based herbal hair dyes were bought
from the market and were designated as C1 and C2.

The compositions of the formulations of the herbal hair dye are listed below:-
 132

S.no. Plant F1(g) F2(g) F3(g)

1. Lawsonia inermis 20 5 0

2. Indigofera tinctoria 0 15 20

3. Beta vulgaris 2 2 2

4. Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 0.7 0.7 0.7

5. Phyllanthus emblica 2 2 2

6. Rosa sp. 1 1 1

7. Cinnamomum zeylanicum 1 1 1

8. Eclipta alba 1 1 1

9. Acacia concinna 1 1 1

10. Coffea sp. 2 2 2

11. Azadirachta indica 1 1 1

12. Trigonella foenum- 1 1 1

graecum

13. Punica granatum 1 1 1

14. Psidium guajava 1 1 1

15. Murraya koenigii 1 1 1

16. Ocimum tenuiflorum 1 1 1

17. Camellia sinensis 2 2 2

 133

Fig - 4.73

Formulated pure herbal hair dyes(F1,F2 and F3)

Fig- 4.74

Marketed herbal hair dyes (C1 and C2)

 134

EVALUATION OF
THE HERBAL
HAIR DYES
 135

EVALUATION OF THE HERBAL HAIR DYES

The prepared pure herbal hair dyes were evaluated for various parameters which
are listed below-

A) Organoleptic evaluation
Organoleptic evaluations are various methods of analysis like color, texture, odour,
appearance etc.

Organoleptic evaluations were done for the following parameters

S. no. Parameter
1. Color
2. Texture
3. Odour
4. Appearance

Organoleptic evaluation was done by physically observing various characteristics of

the formulated herbal hair dyes.

The marketed herbal hair dyes were also evaluated for the above parameters.

1.Color
Out of the formulated dyes, color of F1 was found to brownish green while colors
of both F2 and F3 were found to be green. Colors of both the marketed dyes i.e.,
C1 and C2 were found to be green.
 136

2.Texture
Textures of all the formulated dyes i.e., F1, F2, F3 were fine. Textures of both the
marketed dyes i.e., C1 and C2 were fine.

3.Odour
Odour of F1, F2 and F3 was characteristic. Odour of C1 and C2 was also
characteristic.

4.Appearance
F1, F2 and F3 were prepared in powder form. The marketed dyes C1 and C2 were
also procured in powder form.

B)Physio-chemical evaluation
The chemical & physical properties of the formulated herbal hair dyes were
evaluated to determine the following parameters-

S. no. Parameter
1. pH
2. Moisture content

The marketed herbal hair dyes were also evaluated for the above parameters.
 137

1.Test for pH

For detection of the pH of the formulated herbal hair dyes and marketed herbal
hair dyes, water was added to each formulation so as to make a paste. A pH paper
was then dipped in the respective pastes to detect the pH of the formulated and
the marketed herbal hair dyes.

Fig - 5.1

pH tests of the formulated herbal hair dyes F1,F2 and F3

 138

Fig – 5.2

pH tests of the Marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2

2. Test for moisture content

For the detection of moisture content 3 g of each formulation of the prepared
herbal hair dyes were taken in separate china dishes & were weighed on a
weighing machine(Initial weight). These china dishes were then kept in the oven
at 70 degree celcius for 2 hours ( Fig- 5.3). After 2 hours, the oven was switched
off & the china dishes were left inside the oven to cool down followed by their
weighing on the weighing machine(final weight). The moisture content was
calculated by the following formula:-

Moisture content=Final weight(g)-Initial weight(g)

 139

The marketed herbal hair dyes were packed in air-tight packets therefore there
is no moisture content present in them.

Fig – 5.3

Placement of the formulated dyes in the oven for the evaluation of moisture
content
 140

C) Phytochemical evaluation
The prepared herbal hair dye was evaluated for detection of the
presence of phytoconstituents such as carbohydrates, amino acids &
proteins, flavonoids .

S. no. Parameter
1. Carbohydrate
2. Amino acids & proteins
3. Flavonoids

The marketed herbal hair dyes were also evaluated for the above
parameters.

1. CARBOHYDRATES
Utility
Carbohydrates provide energy to convert proteins into the cells that
form the hair

Test for carbohydrates

For detection of carbohydrates, an extract of the formulated herbal hair
dye were prepared (Fig-5.4). Similarly, extracts were prepared for
marketed herbal hair dyes(Fig-5.5).From the prepared extract, 2ml of
each formulation was taken in taken in a test tubes & 2 ml each of
Fehling’s solution A & Fehling’s solution B was added to each test tubes.
The test tubes were then kept in boiling hot water bath (Fig- 5.6). The
appearance of yellow or brick red ppt was observed indicating the
presence of carbohydrates in both formulated and marketed dyes(Fig-
5.7 and Fig- 5.8 respectively).
 141

Extract of F1 Extract of F2 Extract of F3

Fig – 5.4

Prepared extracts of the formulated dyes F1, F2 and F3

C1 C2

Fig- 5.5

Prepared extracts of marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2

 142

Fig -5.6

Test tubes (F1,F2,F3,C1,C2) in the boiling water bath for the evaluation of
carbohydrates
 143

Fig -5.7

Evaluation of carbohydrate presence in the formulated

herbal hair dyes F1, F2 and F3

Fig -5.8

Evaluation of carbohydrate presence in the marketed

herbal hair dyes C1 and C2

 144

2.AMINO ACID AND PROTEINS

Utility

Proteins & amino acids add strength to the strands & allows the hair to hold on to
moisture.

Test for amino acids and proteins

For the detection of amino acids & proteins an extract of the formulated herbal hair
dyes were prepared. From the prepared extract, 2 ml of each formulation was
taken in test tubes & 2 drops of 0.2% ninhydrin was added to each test tube. The
test tubes were then heated. Appearance of blue color was observed indicating the
presence of amino acids and proteins in both formulated and the marketed herbal
hair dyes (Fig- 5.9 and Fig- 5.10 respectively).
 145

Fig -5.9

Evaluation of amino acid and protein presence in the formulated herbal hair
dyes F1, F2 and F3

Fig – 5.10

Evaluation of amino acid and protein presence in the marketed herbal hair dyes
C1 and C2
 146

3.FLAVONOIDS

Utility

Flavonoids have excellent hair growth effects as they accelerate the growth of hair
by shortening the period of transition from the resting phase to the growth phase
of the hair cycle.

Test for flavonoids

For the detection of flavonoids an extract of the formulated herbal hair dyes were
prepared. From the prepared extract, 2 ml of each formulation was taken in test
tubes & 2 ml dilute ammonia was added to each test tube. Then 1 ml conc.
Sulphuric acid was added to each test tube. The test tubes were then observed for
the appearance of yellow color indicating the presence of flavonoids in both
formulated and marketed herbal hair dyes (Fig -5.11 and Fig- 5.12respectively).
 147

Fig- 5.11

Evaluation of flavonoid presence in the formulated herbal hair dyes F1, F2 & F3

Fig -5.12

Evaluation of flavonoid presence in the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2

 148

D) Patch test
Patch test was performed dabbing a small amount of aqueous solution of the
hair dye behind the ear or on inner elbow & it was left to dry (Fig-5.13 ). Same
procedure was followed for the patch test of the marketed herbal hair dyes( Fig-
5.14). Signs of swelling, irritation & redness were checked for next 24 hours, if
any. Patch test for the evaluation of following parameters were done:-

S. no. Parameter

1. Swelling

2. Redness

3. Irritation

The marketed herbal hair dyes were also evaluated for the above parameters .
 149

Fig -5.13

Application of formulated dyes F1, F2 and F3 near inner side of elbow for patch
test

Patch test of C1 Patch test of C2

Fig -5.14

Application of marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2 on the inner side of elbow
for patch test
 150

E) Rheological evaluation
Physical parameters like bulk density and tapped density were observed and
calculated for the formulated herbal hair dye.

Rheological evaluation was done for the determination of the following

parameters

S. no. Parameter
1. Bulk density
2. Tapped density

The marketed herbal hair dyes were also evaluated for the above parameters.

1.Evaluation of bulk density

The bulk density symbolizes the adjustment of particles or granules collectively
in the packed form.

For this 2 g of each formulation of the formulated dyes(Fig-5.15) and marketed

dyes(Fig -5.16 ) were taken in cylinders and the volume occupied was measured.

The bulk density was calculated by the following formula as given below-
Mass of dye/Bulk volume occupied by the dye
 151

Fig -5.15

Evaluation of bulk density of the formulated herbal hair dyes F1, F2 and F3

C1 C2

Fig 5.16

Evaluation of bulk density of the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2

 152

2.Evaluation of tapped density

The tapped density is a measure for powder characterization. The ability of a
powder sample to pack under taps gives a measure of the powder cohesiveness
which can be linked to its flowability and compressibility.

For this 2 g of each formulation of the formulated herbal hair dyes (Fig- 5.17) and
marketed herbal hair dyes (Fig- 5.18) was taken in measuring cylinders. These
cylinders were tapped fully & the volume occupied was measured.

The tapped density was calculated by the following formula given below -

Mass of dye/Tapped volume of the dye

Fig 5.17

Evaluation of tapped density of the formulated herbal hair dyes F1, F2 and F3.
 153

C1 C2

Fig- 5.18

Evaluation of tapped density of the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2.
 154

APPLICATION
OF THE
FORMULATED
DYES
 155

The formulated pure herbal hair dyes were studied for dyeing efficiency in vitro, on
natural wool fibres. Dyeing efficiency was determined in terms of color intensity.
Both the formulated and marketed herbal hair dyes were applied on the wool fibres
in a paste form and was kept for 3 hours. The pastes of formulated herbal hair dyes
were prepared by mixing the dyes with a sufficient volume of water(Fig-6.1). The
pastes of the marketed herbal hair dyes were prepared similarly(Fig-6.2). The
pastes were applied to the wool fiber .The dyed wool fibres were washed with tap
water after a period of 3 hours. A second coat of the dyes were applied after 24
hours of first application, kept for 2 hours and then washed with tap water. The
wool fibres were then observed for the color intensity imparted by the formulated
herbal dyes ( Fig-6.3) and marketed herbal dyes (Fig-6.4).
 156

Fig-6.1

Prepared pastes of the formulated herbal hair dyes F1, F2 and F3

Fig -6.2

Prepared pastes of the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2

 157

Fig -6.3

Application of the formulated herbal hair dyes F1, F2 and F3 on wool fibres

Fig -6.4

Application of the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2 on natural wool fibres
 158

RESULTS
 159

A) Organoleptic evaluation
Following results of the organoleptic evaluation of both the formulated herbal
hair dyes (F1,F2 and F3) and the marketed herbal hair dyes(C1 and C2) were
obtained.

S. no Parameter F1 F2 F3 C1 C2
1. Color Brownish Green Green Green Green
green

2. Texture Fine Fine Fine Fine Fine

3. Odour Characteristic Characteristic Characteristic Characteristic Characteristic

4. Appearance Powder Powder Powder Powder Powder

 160

Appearance, texture and color of the formulated herbal hair dyes in the powdered
form (Fig-7.1).

Fig-7.1

Formulated herbal hair dyes F1, F2 and F3

Appearance, texture and color of the marketed herbal hair dyes in the powdered
form(Fig-7.2).

C1 C2

Fig-7.2

Marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2

 161

Following colors were obtained after the application of the formulated pure
herbal hair dyes (Fig- 7.3) and the marketed herbal hair dyes(Fig-7.4) .

Color from F1 Color from F2 Color from F3

Fig -7.3

Colors obtained from the formulated herbal hair dyes F1, F2 and F3

Color from C1 Color from C2

Fig- 7.4

Colors obtained from the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2

 162

B)Physio-chemical evaluation
Following results of the physio-chemical evaluations of both the formulated herbal
hair dyes (F1, F2 and F3) and marketed herbal hair dyes (C1 and C2) were obtained.

S. Parameter F1 F2 F3 C1 C2
no.

1. pH 4 4 4 4 5

2. Moisture 0.145 g 0.082 g 0.068 g - -

content
 163

1.pH
Following results of the pH evaluation of the formulated (Fig-7.5) and the
marketed herbal hair dyes were obtained (Fig-7.6)

Fig-7.5

pH tests of the formulated herbal hair dyes F1, F2 and F3

 164

pH test of C1 pH test of C2

Fig -7.6

pH tests of the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2

2.Moisture content
Following results of the moisture content evaluation of the formulated (Fig-7.7)
herbal hair dyes were obtained .
 165

Fig – 7.7

Placement of the formulated dyes in the oven

for the evaluation of moisture content

The marketed herbal hair dyes were packed in air-tight packets therefore there
is no moisture content present in them.
C) Phytochemical evaluation
Following results of the phytochemical evaluation of both the formulated herbal
hair dyes (F1, F2 and F3) and marketed herbal hair dyes (C1 and C2) were obtained.
 166

S. Parameter F1 F2 F3 C1 C2
no

1. Carbohydrates Positive Positive Positive Positive Positive

2. Amino acids & Negative Positive Positive Positive Negative

proteins

3. Flavonoids Positive Negative Negative Negative Negative

 167

1.Test for carbohydrates

Following results of carbohydrate tests of the formulated herbal hair dyes F1,
F2 and F3(Fig -7.8) and the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2(Fig-7.9) were
obtained.

F1 F2 F3

Fig -7.8

Results of carbohydrate test of the formulated dyes F1, F2 and F3

 168

C1 C2

Fig-7.9
Results of carbohydrate test of the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2
 169

2.Test for Amino acids and proteins

Following results of amino acid and protein tests of the formulated herbal hair dyes
F1, F2 and F3 (Fig-7.10) and the the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2 (Fig-7.11)
were obtained.

F1 F2 F3

Fig -7.10
Results of the Amino acid and Protein test of the formulated dyes F1, F2
and F3
 170

C1 C2

Fig -7.11

Results of amino acid and protein tests of the marketed herbal hair
dyes C1 and C2
 171

3.Test for flavonoids

Following results of flavonoid tests of the formulated herbal hair dyes F1, F2 and
F3 (Fig-7.12) and the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2 were obtained (Fig-7.13)

F1 F2 F3

Fig-7.12
Results of the flavonoid test of the formulated herbal hair dyes F1, F2
and F3
 172

C1 C2

Fig-7.13

Results of flavonoid test of the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2

 173

D) Patch test
Following results of patch tests of both the formulated herbal hair dyes (F1, F2 and
F3) and marketed herbal hair dyes (C1 and C2) were obtained.

S. no. Parameter F1 F2 F3 C1 C2

1. Redness No No No No No

2. Swelling No No No No No

3. Irritation No No No No No
 174

The formulated herbal hair dyes F1, F2 and F3 (Fig-7.14) and the marketed
herbal hair dye C1,C2 did not show any signs of redness, irritation or swelling
(Fig -7.15).

Fig -7.14

Patch test of the formulated herbal hair dyes F1, F2 and F3

Fig-7.15

Patch test of the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2

 175

E) Rheological evaluation
Following results of the rheological evaluation of the formulated herbal hair dyes
(F1, F2 and F3) and marketed herbal hair dyes (C1 and C2) were obtained.

S. no. Parameter F1(g/ml) F2(g/ml) F3(g/ml) C1(g/ml) C2(g/ml)

1. Bulk density 0.37 0.37 0.37 0.37 0.37

2. Tapped 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4

density
 176

Results of the evaluation of bulk density of the formulated herbal hair dyes F1,
F2 and F3 (Fig -7.16) and the marketed herbal hair dyes C1,C2( Fig-7.17)

Evaluation of F1 Evaluation of F2 Evaluation of F3

Fig -7.16

Evaluation of bulk density of the formulated herbal hair dyes F1, F2 and F3
 177

Fig -7.17

Evaluation of bulk density of the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2

Results of the evaluation of tapped density of the formulated herbal

hair dyes F1, F2 and F3 (Fig-7.18) and the marketed herbal hair dyes C1,C2
( Fig-7.19)
 178

Evaluation of F1 Evaluation of F2 Evaluation of F3

Fig-7.18

Evaluation of tapped density of the formulated herbal hair dyes F1, F2 and F3
 179

Fig-7.19

Evaluation of tapped density of the marketed herbal hair dyes C1 and C2

 180

DISCUSSION
 181

The formulated pure herbal hair dyes contains all the benefits of the natural
ingredients. The formulations not only act as hair dyes ,but they also help in
promoting hair growth, conditioning and nourishing the hair. They also help in
decreasing the dandruff.

Henna and Indigo acts as the base powder, as they act as universal hair dyes.
Bhringraj improves the blood flow at the hair roots as it provides nutrients to
support hair growth. Shikakai provide vitamin A, C, D, K which together form a very
powerful antioxidant which help unclog the pores, kill the infection-causing
bacteria and stimulate the hair growth. Hibiscus controls the hair fall, dandruff and
graying of the hair. The presence of vitamin C in Amla helps in preventing the pre-
mature graying of the hair & dandruff. Coffee improves the quality and texture of
the hair. Tea imparts perfect hair color to the hair.

1.Organoleptic evaluation

• Color
The color of F1 was found to be brownish green and that of F2 and F3 was found
to be green in powdered form.

In a research performed by Saxena et al., 2018 aimed on synthesis and evaluation

of herbal based hair dye (Ingredients of the formulated dye- Henna, amla, reetha,
shikakai, hibiscus, coffee, jatamansi, bhringraj and tea), it was found that the
formulated dye was greenish brown in powdered form.

In our experiment the colour of the formulated dyes F1, F2 and F3 were found to
be brownish green, green and green respectively which were found to be
corresponding to results obtained by Saxena et al.( 2018) results.

The colors of C1 and C2 was found to be green in powdered form.

• Texture
The texture of F1, F2 and F3 was found to be fine in powder form.
 182

In a research performed by Saxena et al., (2018) aimed on ‘Synthesis and

evaluation of herbal based hair dye (Ingredients of the formulated dye- Henna,
Amla, Reetha, Shikakai, Hibiscus, Coffee, Jatamansi, Bhringraj and Tea), the
texture was observed to be fine in powder form. The textures of our formulated
dyes F1, F2 and F2 were found to be corresponding to Saxena et al’( 2018) results.

The texture of C1 and C2 was found to be fine in powder form.

• Odour
The odour of F1, F2 and F3 was found to be characteristic in powder form.

In a research performed by Saxena et al., 2018 that aimed at ‘Synthesis and

evaluation of herbal based hair dye’ (Ingredients of the formulated dye - Henna,
Amla, Reetha, Shikakai, Hibiscus, Coffee, Jatamansi, Bhringraj and Tea), the odour
was found to be characteristic. The odour of our formulated dyes were found to
characteristic, hence corresponding to Saxena et al. (2018) results.

The odour of C1 and C2 was found to be characteristic in powder form.

• Appearance
The F1, F2 and F3 dyes were prepared in powder form .The marketed dyes C1 and
C2 were also in powder form.

2.Physiochemical evaluation

• pH

The pH of all the formulated dyes i.e., F1, F2 and F3 dyes was found to be 4 which
is suitable for all hair types.

In a research performed by Saxena et al. (2018) aimed on ‘Synthesis and evaluation

of herbal based hair dye’ (Ingredients of the formulated dye Henna, Amla, Reetha,
Shikakai, Hibiscus, Coffee, Jatamansi, Bhringraj and Tea), a pH of 6.7 was recorded.
 183

The pH of our formulated dyes were found to be 4 which were contrasting to

Saxena et al.( 2018) results.

In a research performed by Kumar et al. (2016) aimed at ‘Formulation and

evaluation of 100% herbal hair dye’ (Ingredients of the formulated dye- Henna,
indigo,aloe vera,feenu,bhringraj,amla,guav,black catechu,tulsi,loha bhasma and
water), a pH in the range of 6-7 was recorded. The pH of our formulated dyes were
found to be 4 which were contrasting to Kumar et al. ( 2016) results.

In a research performed by Suvarna et al. (2013) that aimed at ‘Comparative study

of dyeing efficiency and retention capacity of herbal hair’ dyes’ (Ingredients of the
formulated dye- Lawsonia inermis, Indigofera tinctoria, Phyllanthus emblica and
Eclipta alba), a pH of 6.0 was recorded. The pH of our formulated dyes were found
to 4 which were contrasting to Suvarna et al (2013)results.

The pH of C1 was found to be 4 while the pH of C2 was found to be 5.

• Moisture content
The moisture content of F1, F2 and F3 were found to be 0.145 g, 0.082 g and 0.068
g respectively.

3.Phytochemical evaluations
Phytochemical evaluations indicated the presence of major phytochemicals like
carbohydrates, flavonoids, amino acids and proteins which provide energy for hair
growth, add strength to the hair and accelerate the hair growth.

• Carbohydrates

Among the formulated dyes, carbohydrates were found to present in all the three
formulations F1, F2 and F3.

In a research performed by Saxena et al.(2018) that aimed at ‘Synthesis and

evaluation of herbal based hair dye’(Ingredients of the formulated dye:- Henna,
 184

amla, reetha, shikakai, hibiscus, coffee, jatamansi, bhringraj and tea),the

carbohydrates in the formulated herbal hair dye were found to be absent. Among
our formulated dyes F1, F2 and F3, carbohydrates were found to be present in all
hence the results were contrasting to Saxena et al. (2018) results.

In a research performed by Ganpat et al., 2021 that aimed at ‘Formulation and

evaluation of herbal hair dye’ carbohydrates were found to be absent in the
formulated herbal dye. Our formulated dyes F1, F2 and F3 showed the presence of
carbohydrates. Hence, the results were contrasting to Ganpat et al. (2021) results.

Among the marketed dyes C1 and C2 carbohydrates was also found to be present
in both.

• Amino acids and proteins

Among the formulated dyes amino acids were found to be present in both F2 and
F3, while absent in F1.

Among the marketed dyes C1 indicated the presence of amino acids and proteins,
while C2 gave negative results for the test.

• Test for presence of flavonoids

Among the formulated dyes, flavonoids were found to be present in F1 while
absent in F2 and F3.

Among the marketed dyes, flavonoids were found to be absent in both C1 and C2.

4.Patch tests
The patch tests were found to be negative for formulated dyes F1, F2 and F3.
Neither of the formulations caused any signs of redness, swelling or irritation.

In a research performed by Saxena et al., 2018 that aimed at ‘Synthesis and

evaluation of herbal based hair dye’ (Ingredients of the formulated dye:- Henna,
amla, reetha, shikakai, hibiscus, coffee, jatamansi, bhringraj and tea), the patch
tests showed no signs of redness, swelling or irritation. The patch tests of our
 185

formulated dyes were found to be negative hence the results were corresponding
to Saxena et al. (2018) results.

In a research performed by Kumar et al.( 2016) that aimed at ‘Formulation and

evaluation of 100% herbal hair dye’ Ingredients of the formulated dye:-
Henna,Indigo,aloevera,feenu,Bhringraj,amla,guava,blackcatechu,tulsi,loha
bhasma and water), the patch tests showed no signs of skin sensitivity. The patch
tests of our formulated dyes were found to corresponding to Kumar et al’s results.

The patch tests were found to be negative for marketed dyes C1 and C2.

5.Rheological evaluations

Rheological evaluations indicated the values of bulk & tapped density. The bulk
density symbolizes the adjustment of particles or granules collectively in the
packed form. The tapped density is a measure for powder characterization. The
ability of a powder sample to pack under taps gives a measure of the powder
cohesiveness which can be linked to its flowability and compressibility.

• Bulk density
The bulk densities of F1, F2 and F3 were found to be same i.e., 0.37 g/ml.
In a research performed by Saxena et al.( 2018) that aimed at ‘Synthesis and
evaluation of herbal based hair dye’ (Ingredients of the formulated dye:- Henna,
amla, reetha, shikakai, Hibiscus, Coffee, jatamansi, bhringraj and tea), the bulk
density was found to be 0.35 g/ml.

The results of the bulk densities of our formulated dyes were found to be
corresponding to Saxena et al ( 2018) results.

The bulk densities of the marketed dyes C1 and C2 were found to be same i.e., 0.37
g/ml.

• Tapped density

The tapped densities were found to be same for all the three formulation F1,
F2 and F3 which was 0.4 g/ml.
 186

In a research performed by Saxena et al., 2018 that aimed at ‘Synthesis and

evaluation of herbal based hair dye’ (Ingredients of the formulated dye:- Henna,
amla, reetha, shikakai, hibiscus, coffee, jatamansi, bhringraj and tea), the tapped
density was found to be 0.471 g/ml. The results of our formulated dyes were found
to be corresponding to Saxena et al( 2018) results.

The tapped densities of both the marketed dyes C1 and C2 were found to be same
which was 0.4 g/ml.

6. Application of the herbal hair dyes & its results

Application of formulated dyes F1, F2 and F3 imparted their characteristic colors to
the wool fibres.

Among the formulated dyes F1 imparted brownish color to the wool fibres, while
both the F2 and F3 imparted blackish color to the wool fibres.

Among the marketed dyes C1 imparted yellowish-brown color to the wool fibres
while C2 imparted orange-brown color to the wool fibres.
 187

CONCLUSION
 188

Application of the dyes on natural wool fibres revealed that the formulated dyes
were able to impart more intense and better colors than the marketed herbal hair
dyes even without the presence of any chemical ingredients.

The formulated pure herbal hair dyes offer natural alternative of both the
chemical based dyes and the marketed herbal hair dyes which contains some
chemical ingredients. The formulated dyes were compared with the herbal hair
dyes available in the market and were found to be more effective. Out of the two
samples of the marketed dyes taken, one sample had chemical additives and the
other had only one herbal ingredient and no chemical ingredient while the
formulated dyes had no chemical additives and had 17 ingredients which were
beneficial for the hair in various ways. Even without the absence of any chemicals,
the formulated dyes imparted better colors than the marketed herbal hair dyes
without any side effect. Apart from this, the formulated pure herbal hair dyes
contained the goodness and benefits of various plant based ingredients, which are
good for the hair.

Hence, the formulated pure herbal hair dyes were found to be more effective than
the herbal dyes available in the market.

Hence, they are suitable natural colors and can be recommended for further
studies.
 189

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