BEYOND BORDERS

(A Comprehensive Exploration of Global Sustainability)

Dr. Neeru Jain

Dr. Pallavi Kohli
Beyond Borders
(A Comprehensive Exploration of Global Sustainability)

Editor-in-Chief
Dr. Neeru Jain
Dr. Pallavi Kohli

DeepMisti Publication
Registered Under MSME
UDYAM-HR-17-0014179
[email protected]
Insta: deepmisti_publication
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Beyond Borders
 Copyright
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Title - Beyond Borders

(A Comprehensive Exploration of Global Sustainability)
ISBN NO: 978-93-6128-935-4
(MHRD)
Date of publication -22/1/2024
Cover Designed By - Dr. Neeru Jain
Editors- Dr. Neeru Jain & Dr.Pallavi Kohli
Language – English & Hindi
Publisher - DeepMisti Publication
No. of Pages – 360
Price – 799

Beyond Borders
 INDEX

S.NO LIST OF CHAPTERS PAGE

NO.
1. WILDLIFE PROTECTION LAW TOWARDS 1-25
THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY AND ITS
EFFECTS ON SOCIETY : DR. NEERU JAIN

2. KHADI: A SUSTAINABLE FABRIC 26-40

FOR SUSTAINABLE WORLD: DR. PALLAVI
KOHLI

3. GREEN HRM: DIGITIZING WORKPLACES 41-55

FOR ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT: DR.
SWATI PHOPHALIA

4. ENTREPRENEURIAL AND EMPLOYMENT 56-78

CHALLENGES FACED BY WOMEN IN
UTTARAKHAND REGION: DR. VANIKI
JOSHI LOHANI & DR. MOHIT LOHANI

5. TERRACOTTA- THE SUSTAINABLE 79-93

HOLLOW BAKED CLAY ART OF INDIA:
DR. UJJVALA M. TIWARI

6. SUSTAINABLE JEWELLERY: A GUIDE TO 94-112

ECO-FRIENDLY MATERIALS AND
PRACTICES: DEEPALI RATHORE
7. SUSTAINABLE AND ETHICAL 113-128
JEWELLERY PRACTICES: NIDHI SOLANKI

8. SUSTAINABILITY IN ART CREATIVE 129-144

AWARENESS FOR THE ENVIRONMENT:
POONAM AGARWAL

Beyond Borders
9. ECOTOURISM: A RESPONSIBLE WAY TO 144-155
TRAVELDR: DR. SHELJA K JUNEJA &
REENA CHOUDHARY
10. SOCIAL MEDIA – A NEW PROTAGONIST 156-173
OF COMMUNICATION WORLD FOR
ENCOURAGING SUSTAINABLE CHOICES:
DR. APARNA SHEKHAWAT

11. USING VALUABLE METALS RECOVERED 174-185

FROM ELECTRONIC GARBAGE
TO CREATE NEW JEWELLERY: DIMPLE
KUNDNANI

12. ALIGNING NATIONAL EDUCATION 186-200

POLICY 2020 WITH SUSTAINABLE
DEVELOPMENT GOAL: LOVELEENA
MATHUR

13. REVIEWING THE SUSTAINABLE 201-210

FEATURES IN INDIAN MINIATURE
PAINTINGS: JYOTI JALAN

14. REUSING AND REINVENTING IS A 211-221

SUSTAINABLE APPROACH TO
JEWELLERY DESIGN : AMISHA KUMARI

15. FAST FASHION AND 222-231

ITS IMPACT ON SOCIETY :DR. KALPANA
MUNJAL

16. THREADS OF CHANGE: THE AESTHETIC 232-251

EVOLUTION OF SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES
: MAMTA JAIN

17 HARMONY IN HERITAGE: SOHRAI WALL 252-265

PAINTING MOTIFS FOR SUSTAINABLE
HOME FURNISHING: DR. SUNETRA DATT

Beyond Borders
18. FIVE SUSTAINABLE HINDU 266-280
MYTHOLOGICAL ARTWORKS AT INDIAN
AIRPORTS :SHEFALI YADAV & DR. ISHA
BHATT
19. GREEN MARKETING IN INDIA: A 281-297
COMPREHENSIVE SURVEY: RAKHI
TANWAR

20. ठाकुर ी गो व द दे व जी के ग
ं ृ ार म ाकृ ितक 298-310
त व का वषलेषण : DIMPLE DALAL

21. लघु िच म ाकृ ित रं ग: पयावरण के साथक: 311-327

DR. HIRALAL KUMHAR

22. ाकृ ितक रे श का स दयता से प रपूण कला म 328-341

मह व: EKTA SHARMA

Beyond Borders
 Dr. Neeru Jain
`

Dr. Neeru Jain is a Jewellery Designer, Writer, Educator,

Innovator and Poetess. She is working as an Associate
Professor at IIS (Deemed to be University), Jaipur. She started
jewellery designing as a hobby which later, became her
career. She has completed her training from Bangkok Gem
and Jewellery Institute, Thailand. Her interest in writing
research articles has been there for a long time. She has also
published around 50 research papers and articles in UGC
CARE listed national and international journals, Magazines
along with paper presented at various national and
international conferences.
Apart from her academic pursuits, she is an accomplished
jewellery designer with several honors to her name, including
copyrights, Industrial Designs recognition from the Patent
Office of the Government of India. She has served as a jury
member in national-level jewellery and fashion shows and
other events. She is still making significant contributions to
the jewellery design industry with her rich experience. she
delights her readers by immersing them in beautiful emotions

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through prominent solo poetry collections "TERA
CHEHRA JAB NAZAR AAYE","EAK DHAGA PREM
KA","ISHQUIA CHAI" and "ADRASHYA PATHGAMI,".
In shared poetry compilations like "Ishq Sufiyana" and
"Tera Sazda".
In the realm of artistic expression, she meticulously penned a
captivating guidebook on jewellery i.e. Metal Decoration
Technique and the rich tapestry of historical influences
interwoven with contemporary trends. Simultaneously, her
poetic spirit soared to ethereal heights, birthing six enchanting
volumes of verse within the past two years, each poem is
a delicate cascade of emotions rendered in words. Her literary
essence graced the pages of 50 anthologies, weaving a
harmonious melody of voices from diverse corners of the
world. Amidst the creative symphony, her intellectual pursuit
continues unabated, painting scholarly strokes in the canvas
of academia, crafting verses that echo the soul's musings, and
shaping the future of jewellery design with innovative
contributions to the industry. Her journey stands as a
testament to the seamless fusion of intellect, poetry, and
jewellery design, where each endeavor is a lyrical ode to
passion and purpose.
.

2
 WILDLIFE PROTECTION LAW TOWARDS
THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY AND ITS
EFFECTS ON SOCIETY
Dr. Neeru Jain,
Associate Professor & Head
Department of Jewellery Designing
IIS (deemed to be University), Jaipur
[email protected]

Introduction
The fashion and jewellery industry contributes to the killing
of numerous animals for products and profits. Fur-bearing
animals like raccoon dogs, minks, muskrats, chinchillas,
foxes, and coyotes are confined in factory-farm cages or
trapped and shot in their natural habitat. Reptiles such as
alligators, crocodiles, snakes, and lizards are also killed for
their 'exotic' skin, which is sold to wealthy customers at high
prices. For example, Australia's saltwater crocodiles, which
have lived for millions of years alongside indigenous people,
are now often kept in captivity for luxury fashion brands like
Hermès and Louis Vuitton. These animals are killed at a
fraction of their lifespan, with bags made from their skins
selling for tens or even hundreds of thousands of dollars. This
practice raises significant ethical concerns regarding animal
welfare and conservation.
Jewellery such as rings, ear rings, nose rings, necklaces,
broaches, bangles, bracelets, amulets, anklets, and accessories
such as beads, buckles, buttons, cigarette lighters, combs, eye
glasses/spectacle frames, hair pins/clips/slides/bands,
cufflinks, tie-pins, trimmings on attire can be made from

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bone, horn, ivory, tiger/emu/animal Jewellery such as rings,
ear rings, nose rings, necklaces, broaches, bangles, bracelets,
amulets, anklets, and accessories such as beads, buckles,
buttons, cigarette lighters, combs, eye glasses/ spectacle
frames, hair pins/clips/slides/bands, cufflinks, tie-pins, and
trimmings on attire can be made from
the Jewellery industry, like other fashion sectors, has
historically contributed to the killing of animals for products
and profits.
Here are some ways in which the Jewellery industry has
been involved in the use of animal-derived materials:
1. Ivory: Historically, ivory from elephants and other animals
was highly prized for Jewellery making. Although
international regulations ban the trade of new ivory, antique
ivory items still exist in the market, and their demand
contributes to poaching. In some communities, ivory
Jewellery is believed to have protective and spiritual
significance. It is worn as an amulet or talisman to ward off
evil and bring good fortune. Across the world, ivory is viewed
as a status symbol. Historically, it was used to produce
ornaments, figurines, and small carvings, as well as items like
Jewellery, piano keys, and chess sets. Traditional medicine
also views ivory as a healing element, using ivory powder to
create medicine for a variety of illnesses. traditionally, Rajput
women in Rajasthan have worn ivory "chooda," which refers
to ivory bangles or bracelets. These ivory bangles are a
significant part of Rajput culture and are worn by brides
during their wedding ceremonies considered very auspicious.
Ivory bangles also have a lot of cultural significance in the
Kutch region of Gujarat. The Gujarati chooda has red and
ivory bangles while the chooda of the Rajput bride is made of
ivory and gold bangles.

4
 `
Figure 1: Ivory Jewellery

2. Animal Bones and Horns: Jewellery items, such as beads

and ornaments, have been crafted from animal bones and
horns. While some of these materials come from animals that
died of natural causes, others are obtained through hunting
and killing animals. Typically, artists use the bones of cattle,
oxen, deer, goats and camels. Although the use of horns or
antlers is somewhat common, most experts recommend an
animal leg bone, particularly the hind shin of cattle because
of its dense quality

Figure 2: Bones and horns Jewellery

Although bone Jewellery is still made and sold today, many

people believe it to be ancient or even tribal. Ornaments are
made from a variety of materials, including bones, horns,
antlers, teeth, nails, claws, shells, ivory from elephants and
mammoths, and legal and illicit rhino and buffalo horn. Prior
to being used to create Jewellery, raw bones are thoroughly
cleaned with a stiff brush in soapy water to eliminate any
meat, gristle, and ligaments. After that, they are cooked in
diluted sulfuric or hydrochloric acid until the oily texture is

5
gone. The next steps are bleaching and drying. cutting,
carving, and engraving in due course. Without a doubt,
hazardous chemicals are used. Because they are small, bird
bones are easily carved, and the vertebrae of snakes resemble
pre-made beads. These days, leather chords are used instead
of the animal sinew strips that were once used to string these
and other bone beads. Feathers, shells, inlay of bone dust, or
hollow combinations of metal, glass, or wood can all be found
in bone Jewellery.
Water buffalo tooth bracelets and eagle/bear claw pendants
are also available. Musk deer teeth are traditionally prized by
women in northern India who believe it is a sign of their
husbands' hunting prowess, although the fact that the musk
deer is protected and hunting is strictly illegal. Pangolin scales
are fashioned into rings (used in Odisha to cure piles!) that are
claimed to bring good luck to the user - pangolins are illegally
killed in India, but the majority of the scales are smuggled out
to Myanmar for use as medicines or witchcraft. Several
animals' horns and bones are also used to make jewellery.
Ironically, the bone jewellery offered during the annual
Pushcart camel festival near Ajmer in Rajasthan is of camel
origin. Unfortunately, numerous high-end jewellers have
begun to use camel bone into their designs. Some hornbill
(and other bird) species have Casques/horns (shields) that
provide strength to their bills, aid in chiseling bark, and act as
sound chambers; they also signify sexual maturity. Because
casques are in high demand as jewellery, birds with them are
frequently hunted/killed.

3. Feathers: Feathers from various birds, including peacocks

and exotic birds, have been used in Jewellery designs.
Obtaining feathers often involves hunting or raising these

6
birds in captivity, leading to ethical concerns. Birds like
ostriches and ducks are raised for their feathers, which are
used in fashion items such as boas, headdresses, and
accessories. Feathers are also obtained from birds like
peacocks and eagles, often through hunting or farming. Emu
and ostrich feathers are commonly utilized in the
entertainment industry as fringes, trims, fans, boas, clothes,
earrings, Brooch and other accessories. Egret tail feathers are
employed in beautiful tufts of aigrettes, which solely use
upright plumes. Peacock feathers are used to create earrings,
necklaces, headbands, and purses. Porcupine quills are also
used as fashion accessories in the form of strung and threaded
jewellery; no one waits for the animals to lose them or die
naturally before killing them for their quills.

Figure 3: Feathers Jewellery

4. Pearl: Natural pearls are formed inside oysters and other

mollusks. Harvesting natural pearls sometimes leads to the
death of the mollusk.

Figure 4: Pearl Jewellery

7
While cultured pearls involve a less invasive process, the
demand for pearls can still lead to overfishing and
environmental degradation.
Pearls and moti are marketed according to their color,
luster/glow, form, size/grade, and surface quality. However,
they have been absurdly pushed alongside two other "P's":
"pearls, politics, and power." In an attempt to persuade
women to purchase them, examples of female superstars from
the previous century and the present are used, along with eye-
catching taglines like "bigger the better," "perfect pearls," and
"from classy to jazzy."
Finding a natural pearl or moti is literally a one in a million
chance. A good pearl necklace could require up to 100,000
oysters to produce. An oyster's soft body tissue becomes
wrapped in nacre when a piece of grit gets lodged in it,
creating a natural pearl. (The quantity and caliber of nacre
layers determine a pearl's sheen.) Man cuts a hole in the
oyster's soft body, inserts some gravel inside, and uses a pair
of surgical tongs to hold the valves open to mimic this natural
accident. The discomfort that a splinter causes beneath our
skin is incredibly similar to the suffering that pearl oysters
endure. When an oyster is secreting nacre, it can perish from
being cut or become a meal for fouling and boring organisms.
Even if it makes it through these two stages, there is only a
10% chance that it will emerge from the pearl removal
process unscathed, which could require up to seven years of
suffering in order to produce a single cultured pearl. Out of
all pearls obtained, only 40% are deemed marketable, with
5% of them exhibiting perfect sphericism and commanding a
premium price. Therefore, every single pearl—cultivated or
natural—represents thousands upon thousands of opened and

8
discarded shells, which kill a significant number of
oysters.
Every pearl has a secret history of suffering and death. (Even
Majorica pearls from Spain, referred to as "man-made pearls,"
and some others called "artificial/fake/simulated pearls," are
made using fish scales and/or luster from cultured pearls.) At
Chilika Lake (Orissa), pearls are sold by literally pulling them
out of oysters. One reason they are not real pearls is that they
have been planted in oysters, which has caused their demise.
Brownish-yellow fish pearls, also known as Mach Mani, are
extracted from specific fish's mouths. They are being sold as
rare gem stones associated with the Ramayana in pendant
form. On the other hand, a fish pearl is also a glass bead
coated or lined with essence d'Orient, which is made from fish
scales, to mimic a pearl. Actually, this preparation is applied
to the majority of imitation pearls.

5. Coral : Coral reefs are essential marine ecosystems, but

Jewellery made from coral is still in demand. Harvesting
corals for Jewellery contributes to coral reef destruction,
disrupting marine habitats.
Coral, also known as moonga, is used for both storefront
displays and Jewellery. It is also sold at tourist attractions; for
example, coral beads are sold at Tibet's Potala Palace. Coral
is extracted from the hard skeleton of coral reefs in India, just
like it is in other nations. India also imports valuable moonga,
or red coral, from Mediterranean nations.
Millions of microscopic creatures with soft, sac-like bodies
known as coral polyps live in colonies on coral reefs. The
massive, slowly reproducing dugongs, also known as sea
cows (population estimated at 250 in 2015), are also found in
shallow waters with coral reef formations, such as those

9
surrounding the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. Sailors
frequently mistake these slow-moving sea mammals for the
fabled mermaids. Compared to the reefs off Port Okha and
Dwarka in the Gulf of Kutch and off Rameswaram in the Gulf
of Mannar between India and Sri Lanka, these two coral
reefs—the one around the extinct dugong population and the
one around the Lakshadweep Islands—are more fascinating.

Figure 5: Coral Jewellery

Because coral reefs only grow 1 to 2.5 cm a year, mining
destroys centuries' worth of work in a matter of hours and
claims countless lives. To oceans, they are as essential as trees
are to land. Sadly, however, corals around the world are being
bleached and harmed by climate change (ocean heat waves).
More often than not, widespread development is the cause of
coral death. For instance, the Palm Jumeirah in the United
Arab Emirates is primarily to blame for the 70%
disappearance of living coral in the Persian Gulf, having
buried three square miles of it beneath tons of rock and sand.
Numerous marine species can be found living on even dead
coral reefs. Under the guise of only removing finger-jellies,
or worn-out coral, illegal mining of coral reefs occurs. Rather
than killing them, should use only dead coral plants.

6. Shell: Shells from marine animals are used in Jewellery

making. While some shells are collected from beaches, others
are obtained by hunting marine animals. This practice can
negatively impact marine ecosystems. Sakha Pola are
traditional bangles made of conch shells, and they hold
10
significant cultural and religious importance in Hindu
traditions, particularly in Bengali culture. The Shakha Pola
symbolize good health and prosperity and are traditionally
worn by married women in Bengal. The bangles are made of
white and red conch shells and are often worn in pairs on both
hands. These bangles are considered auspicious and are worn
on special occasions, ceremonies, and religious events.
Cultural practices like wearing Shakha Pola and the iron
bangle reflect the deep-rooted traditions and symbolism
associated with marriage and marital harmony in certain
Hindu communities. Harvesting conch shells for commercial
or cultural purposes can lead to several ecological issues.
Overharvesting conch shells can deplete the populations of
marine mollusks, disrupting the natural balance in marine
ecosystems. Conch shells play a role in marine ecosystems by
providing habitats for various organisms.

Figure 6: Shell Jewellery

7.Leather: Leather straps or cords are used in Jewellery,

especially in bracelets and necklaces. Leather comes from
animal hides, leading to the killing of animals for their skin.

Figure 7: Leather Jewellery

11
Exotic Skins: Reptiles like alligators, crocodiles, snakes, and
lizards are killed for their skin, which is used in luxury
products like handbags, shoes, and belts.

These animals are often kept in captivity or hunted in the wild

for their skins. This practice raises concerns about animal
welfare, as these creatures are often subjected to inhumane
living conditions, and their populations can be threatened due
to overhunting. The use of leather and exotic animal skins in
fashion has led to growing awareness about animal rights and
ethical fashion. Many consumers and organizations advocate
for cruelty-free alternatives, promoting the use of synthetic
materials or sustainable options that do not harm animals.
Additionally, there are legal and ethical standards in place in
some regions to regulate the sourcing and trade of exotic
animal products, although enforcement can vary. As
consumer awareness increases, there is a growing trend
towards ethical and sustainable fashion choices, encouraging
the industry to explore alternative materials that do not
involve harming animals or disrupting ecosystems.

8. Turtle Shells: Historically, turtle shells have been used

in Jewellery and accessories. Harvesting turtle shells can
lead to the decline of turtle populations, some of which are
already endangered. Turtles play a vital role in marine
ecosystems. They help control jellyfish populations,
maintain seagrass beds, and contribute to nutrient cycling.
Using turtle shells in jewellery making is deemed unethical
and unsustainable because it significantly harms turtle
populations and marine ecosystems. Harvesting turtle shells
typically entails killing the turtles, causing them suffering
and death. Employing animals for decorative purposes raises

12
 ethical dilemmas regarding animal welfare and moral
implications associated with these practices.
As awareness about the environmental impact of using turtle
shells in jewellery grows, there is a cultural shift towards
more ethical and sustainable practices. Many communities are
adopting alternative materials to create traditional jewellery,
respecting both cultural heritage and wildlife conservation.

Figure 9: Turtle’s shell Jewellery

9. Fur : Animals like minks, chinchillas, foxes, and raccoon

dogs are raised in fur farms under often inhumane conditions.
They are killed for their fur, which is used in jewellery ,
accessories and clothing items such as coats, hats, etc. the use
of animal fur in jewellery and fashion items raises ethical
concerns related to animal welfare, species conservation, and
the availability of ethical alternatives. As consumer
awareness grows, there is a push for the fashion industry to
adopt more humane and sustainable practices, minimizing the
impact on animals and the environment.

Figure 10: Fur Jewellery

13
10. Nail : Sometimes these products form part of the finished
item, e.g. a protected tiger or big cat’s nails/claws, illegally
obtained and studded with precious stones such as diamonds,
sapphires, emeralds and/or rubies, set in gold or platinum, are
converted into ‘exquisite’ jewellery pieces. Toe nails of emus,
set and polished in different ways, are also found as jewellery
pieces and worn as lucky charms.
The legality of wearing jewellery made from tiger claws or
any other body parts of protected wild animals depends on the
specific laws and regulations in your country or jurisdiction.
Based on the information you provided regarding the Wildlife
Protection Act, it is indeed illegal to possess or wear any
article made from body parts of wild animals listed under
Schedule I.
In the context of the Wildlife Protection Act, wearing
jewellery made from tiger claws would likely be considered
illegal, as tigers are protected animals in many countries due
to their endangered status. Tiger claw jewellery typically
involves using the claws of a tiger as decorative elements in
accessories such as necklaces or pendants. Historically, it has
been associated with traditional practices in certain cultures.
However, it's essential to note that using tiger parts for
jewellery or other products is illegal and unethical in many
countries due to conservation efforts and the protection of
endangered species. Similar to tiger claw jewellery, lion claw
jewellery might involve using lion claws as decorative
elements. However, the use of lion parts in jewellery is also
generally discouraged due to ethical concerns and
conservation efforts.
It's crucial to be aware of and adhere to wildlife protection
laws and ethical considerations when it comes to using animal
parts in jewellery. Many countries have strict regulations to

14
prevent the illegal trade of wildlife products and to protect
endangered species. Always follow that the jewellery you
sale adheres to legal and ethical standards.
Quite often the nails (paws), teeth and whiskers of poached
tigers and leopards are missing. For example in December
2018 a leopard was found shot dead with its paws removed
near Gothangaon village in Gondia district. Soon after, the
carcass of a female leopard was found near Film City in Aarey
Colony, Mumbai with 11 missing nails The reason is that
nails, teeth and whiskers are small to hide, smuggle and can
be easily sold because of a demand for their use by jewellers.
In March 2022, a jewellery shop in Salem was found selling
items made from ivory which was first claimed to be artificial,
then that of deer horn. Fox teeth were also found.

Figure 11: Tiger/Lion claw Jewellery

11. Lac Shellac or lac is used to create various kinds of
lacquer bracelets and handcrafted goods. On woo den and
metal pieces, liquid lac that has the appropriate sheen is
applied as a finisher. Color can be added to the lacquer, which
dries by solvent evaporation or a curing process that creates a
hard, durable finish.

Figure 12: Lac Jewellery

15
A lot of lacquer Jewellery has glass, beads, and stones
embedded in it. Some lac jewellery is made of silver foil
shells that have been filled with resin or lac wax to give it
strength. For every 333 grams of shellac, 100,000 lac insects
are killed, or one lakh. India accounts for half of global
production.

8. Insects: Some Jewellery items incorporate insects encased

in resin or other materials. These insects are often obtained by
capturing and killing them. Butterflies are farmed (bred to be
killed) or trapped in the wild with the help of white sheets and
bright lights, or caught in nets. And people are using them in
resin jewellery making. Some times a female decoy butterfly
is pinned with a sharpened tiny sliver of wood (like a
matchstick) to a leaf in order to attract a male in search of a
mate. Upon being netted, its wings are held back between
thumb and forefinger and it is pinched to death with the other
hand, or put in a “killing jar” (bell shaped glass) containing a
little ether.

Figure 8: Insects Jewellery

13. Live creatures: The concept of live creature jewellery

involves incorporating live animals, typically small insects or
other creatures, into wearable accessories such as rings,
necklaces, or earrings.

16
 Figure 13: Live Creature Jewellery
While this practice has historical and cultural roots in some
indigenous communities, it has become a topic of ethical and
environmental debate in contemporary contexts.
However, proponents of live jewellery have stated that as the
wearing of live jewellery is a traditional practice amongst
indigenous groups in the Yucatán, the practice would be
difficult to cease. Similarly, companies selling live jewellery
have stated that with proper care (including storing the insect
in a well-heated vivarium) and adequate feeding, many
insects used as live jewellery can expect to achieve - or
exceed- the average 2-3 year life span of an insect living in a
natural environment.
The termed design craze of including snakes and reptiles in
women's handbags ought to have been mocked rather than
praised as a status symbol and dubbed "the must-have
accessory." According to a news source, a female traveler's
belt unexpectedly sprung to life when she arrived at Glasgow
Airport. It was a harmless live snake that had been
refrigerated before the trip to keep it unconscious, but it had
melted out in the terminal's heat.
Unusual materials are being used more often to create
Jewellery, some of which include jewels and precious metals
and are displayed at the international art fair for modern
objects called "Collect”.
The use of live animals in Chinese key chains, amulets, and
charms, as highlighted in global petitions supported by

17
organizations like BWC and Avaaz, is deeply concerning. In
these practices, live fish, soft-shelled turtles, small lizards, or
amphibians are enclosed in plastic along with crystallized
oxygen and nutrients meant to keep them alive. However,
these animals are unable to survive for long under such
conditions, leading to their suffering and untimely death.
This form of cruelty is severe and raises ethical questions
about the treatment of animals for decorative or superstitious
purposes. Furthermore, the suggestion to microwave the
animals after their death for consumption adds another layer
of distressing ethical concerns, as it promotes a callous and
inhumane attitude towards living beings.
Such practices have sparked outrage and led to petitions
urging for the cessation of these cruel traditions. Global
awareness and activism are crucial in advocating for the
humane treatment of animals, emphasizing the importance of
ethical considerations in cultural practices and consumer
choices.
Even though a beautiful piece of Jewellery might not contain
any animal parts, it occasionally comes packaged in a silk-
lined leather case or is given to the recipient in a silk pouch.
Thus, vegetarians will find the packaging intolerable as it may
contain either or both silk or leather. Vegetarians should
express their objections in such cases and make sure they
don't even have to pay for the leather case or silk pouch if they
choose not to accept it.

It's important to note that due to growing awareness

about animal welfare and conservation, there has been a
shift in the Jewellery industry towards ethical and
sustainable practices. Many designers and consumers now
seek alternatives, opting for cruelty-free materials and

18
lab-grown gemstones, reducing the industry's impact on
animal populations. The fashion and Jewellery industry
contributes to the killing of animals for products and
profits in several ways:

This practice could have the following social effects:

Ethical Concerns: Animal rights and welfare are ethical
issues that are brought up by the use of animal components.
Animal parts used for decoration are frowned upon by many
people as immoral, particularly if the animals were murdered
for this reason.
Conservation Impact: The usage of these body parts in
Jewellery may exacerbate the loss of already vulnerable
populations if the animals are members of protected or
endangered pecies. This may cause ecological upheaval and
have detrimental long-term repercussions on biodiversity.
Cultural Significance: Animal parts Jewellery has long held
traditional and cultural importance in certain civilizations.
Societies frequently struggle to strike a difficult balance
between ethical considerations, conservation initiatives, and
these traditional customs.
Sustainable Alternatives: The Jewellery industry has
developed sustainable alternatives as a result of the use of
animal body parts. Lab-grown gems, faux animal products,
and eco-friendly materials give consumers moral options
while encouraging environmental preservation and
sustainable practices.
Consumer Awareness: Consumer preferences have changed
as a result of growing awareness of the moral and
environmental ramifications of using animal parts in
Jewellery. Nowadays, a lot of people actively look for
Jewellery made of ethical and non-cruelty materials, which is

19
motivating the business sector to adopt more ethical
procedures.
Legal Regulations: Animal products are subject to rules and
restrictions in many nations, which also apply to the Jewellery
industry. Businesses that break these rules risk legal
repercussions, which serves as a disincentive to using animal
parts for products.
Innovation and Creativity: The ban on utilizing animal parts
has pushed jewelers and other craftspeople to experiment with
new and imaginative creations made of substitute materials.
As a result, the Jewellery business is now more inventive and
diverse, appealing to buyers seeking out distinctive and
morally sound items.

In conclusion, there are moral, environmental, and cultural

issues with the Jewellery industry's use of animal parts. The
Jewellery industry has become more environmentally and
animal welfare sensitive due in large part to societal
awareness, governmental legislation, and creative ways. As
per the Wildlife Protection Act of 1972, wild animals are
protected under various Schedules.

Government’s rules and regulations

Governments in various countries have implemented rules
and regulations to address the ethical and environmental
concerns related to the Jewellery industry's contribution to
animal exploitation and harm. These regulations aim to curb
the use of animal-derived materials and promote sustainable,
cruelty-free practices. Here are some common government
rules and initiatives:
1. Bans on Ivory Trade: Many countries have implemented
strict bans on the trade and sale of ivory to curb elephant

20
poaching. These regulations prevent the use of ivory in
Jewellery and other products, reducing the demand for
elephant tusks.
2. Protected Species Legislation: Laws exist to protect
endangered species from exploitation. Jewellery made from
animals listed under these protected species laws is illegal.
Violators can face significant fines and penalties.
3. CITES Regulations: The Convention on International
Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora
(CITES) is an international agreement between governments.
CITES regulates the international trade of endangered and
threatened species, including certain animal parts used in
Jewellery.
4. Animal Welfare Laws: Many countries have animal
welfare laws that govern how animals can be used, raised, and
killed. These laws often cover animals used in the Jewellery
industry, ensuring humane treatment and ethical sourcing.
5. Labelling Requirements: Some countries require Jewellery
products to be labeled accurately, disclosing the materials
used. This transparency helps consumers make informed
decisions and avoid products made from animal-derived
materials.
6. Certification Programs: Certification programs, such as
the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), set industry
standards for ethical and sustainable practices. Adherence to
these standards is often required for businesses to demonstrate
their commitment to responsible sourcing.
7. Consumer Protection Laws: Laws protecting consumers
often extend to false advertising and misrepresentation. If a
Jewellery product is falsely labeled as cruelty-free or animal-
friendly, it can lead to legal consequences for the
manufacturer or seller.

21
8. Environmental Regulations: Mining and extraction
practices related to Jewellery production are subject to
environmental regulations aimed at minimizing ecological
damage. Compliance with these regulations indirectly
reduces harm to wildlife and their habitats.
9. Public Awareness Campaigns: Governments may run
public awareness campaigns to educate consumers about the
ethical implications of certain Jewellery products. These
campaigns encourage consumers to make ethical choices,
reducing demand for items made from animal-derived
materials.
Wildlife is a natural treasure beyond human creation. Once
lost, it's irreplaceable. Ecological balance and unique
creatures like giraffes cannot be reconstructed by mankind
once they disappear."
The use of animal body parts in the Jewellery industry,
including bones, horns, feathers, and nails, has raised ethical
concerns. Various accessories such as rings, necklaces, and
earrings are made from materials like ivory, animal hair,
shells, and even butterflies, often obtained through harmful
practices. For instance, protected animals like tigers have
their claws studded with precious stones for Jewellery. Emu
and ostrich feathers are used in show business, and porcupine
quills are fashioned into Jewellery. However, these practices
often involve killing animals or using cruel methods to obtain
the materials. The industry's use of such animal parts raises
ethical and conservation questions, prompting concerns about
the treatment of animals for fashion purposes.
Although a large majority of the available jewellery could be
fake, it helps to keep the demand for wildlife artefacts high.
Minister Khandre, while announcing the plans to provide a
window to declare and return illegal possession of wildlife

22
articles, appealed to the jewellers to refrain from entertaining
requests to make jewellery out of wildlife articles and display
a sign outside their shops that it was a “punishable offence.”
This is not the first time senior officials have been making
requests to the jewellers. In 2012 former principal chief
conservator of forests (PCCF), wildlife B.K. Singh, in a letter
to jewellers association, mentioned the involvement of
goldsmiths and jewellers in wildlife crimes and warned them
to not get involved in the same.
In 2022, Vijay Kumar Gogi, former PCCF, wrote another
similar letter to the association. Investigations are still on for
the jewellers who made the pendant for Santhosh
It is important to note that the specific rules and regulations
can vary by country, and staying informed about local laws
and international agreements is crucial for businesses and
consumers in the Jewellery industry. Violations of these
regulations can result in legal consequences and damage to a
company's reputation.
Global legislation that actually safeguard farmed animals are
almost non-existent. Even in countries with ostensibly "high
animal welfare laws," farm animals are sometimes exempt
from protection. Cruelty to animals used in the fashion
business, for example, is permissible in the United States,
Australia, and the United Kingdom if judged "necessary."
Animals, like people, deserve not merely to live, but to live
happily and well. Unfortunately, most animal supply chains
are opaque, and even certifications that purport to provide
greater standards of animal welfare and less cruelty to animals
frequently fall far short of their promises. As long as animal
cruelty is legal and standard in the manufacturing of animal-
derived materials, these materials will be incompatible with
animal protection initiatives.

23
There are certain laws that are formed under PETA for the
conservation of wildlife i.e. Wildlife Protection Act 1972,
The Indian Forest Act 1927, The Forest Conservation Act
1980, The Environment (protection) Act 1986, The
Biological Diversity Act 2002, National Wildlife Action Plan
2002-2016, National Forest Policy 1998. Any person who
contravenes any provisions of Chapter VA, shall be
punishable with imprisonment for a term which shall not be
less than one year but which may extend to seven years and
also with fine which shall not be less than five thousand
rupees. So, this wildlife exploitation should be abolished and
government have made certain laws against them that unable
the extinction of wildlife and protect the ecological pyramid
indicating “All life is important no matter how small.”
Thus, this chapter focuses on wildlife exploitation harm the
environment in addition to its impact on the society and
humankind. Given these ethical and environmental concerns,
responsible jewellery makers and consumers are encouraged
to avoid products made from turtle shells. Instead, choosing
ethical and sustainable materials like synthetic alternatives or
eco-friendly options not only supports wildlife conservation
but also promotes a more compassionate and environmentally
conscious approach to jewellery making.

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ELIZABETH

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 Editor-in-Chief

Dr. Neeru Jain

Associate Professor & Head
Department of Jewellery Designing
IIS (deemed to be University), Jaipur
[email protected]

Dr.Pallavi Kohli
Lecturer, Textile Design
Government Women Polytechnic College,
Sanganer, Jaipur

***
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