Janome Memory Craft 4400 Sewing Machine Instruction Manual

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION I NAMES OF PARTS • Manual thread tension adjustment .............................. 22


Name of Parts ........................................................................ 3 SECTION III BASIC SEWING
Screen Sharpness Adjusting Dial .......................................... 4 Straight Stitch Sewing ...................................................... 23
Extension Table ..................................................................... 4 • Starting to sew ................................................................ 23
Standard Accessories ............................................................ 5 • Changing sewing direction ........................................... 23
• Finishing sewing ............................................................. 23
SECTION II GETTING READY TO SEW
Practice Common Stitching Skills ................................... 24
Connecting Machine to Power Supply ................................. 6 Using the Seam Guides on the Needle Plate ................ 24
For Your Safety ..................................................................... 6 Turning Square Corners ................................................... 24
Controlling Sewing Speed .................................................... 6 Using the Quilting Bar ..................................................... 24
Main Function of Buttons/Keys ............................................ 7 Sewing on Heavy Fabrics ................................................. 24
• Up/down needle position button ......................................... 7 • Manual stitch length ...................................................... 25
• Auto-lock button ................................................................. 7 • Variable needle position ............................................... 25
• Reverse button .................................................................... 7 Various Utility Stitch ........................................................ 26
• Mode selection key ............................................................. 8 • Basting ............................................................................ 26
• Twin needle key .................................................................. 8 • Straight stitches .............................................................. 27
• Editing key ......................................................................... 8 • Automatic reverse stitch ............................................... 27
• Stitch width selection key ................................................... 8 • Triple stretch stitch ........................................................ 27
• Stitch length selection key .................................................. 8 • Auto-lock stitch .............................................................. 27
• Message key ....................................................................... 9 • Stretch stitch ................................................................... 28
• Turn-over memory key ....................................................... 9 • Saddle stitch ................................................................... 28
• Elongation key .................................................................... 9 • Sculpture stitch .............................................................. 28
• Stock/call key ..................................................................... 9 Zigzag Stitch ...................................................................... 29
• Clear key ........................................................................... 10 • Interfacing ...................................................................... 29
• Memory key ..................................................................... 10 • To change the width and length ................................... 29
• Direct pattern selection and number keys ........................ 10 Variation of Zigzag Stitches ............................................ 30
• Pattern selection and screen indication ............................. 11 • Overcasting ..................................................................... 30
• Number key selection ........................................................ 11 • Tricot stitch ..................................................................... 30
Memory Mode/Buzzer Sound/Multiple • Knit stitch ....................................................................... 31
Language Settings ............................................................... 12 • Overedge sewing (1) ..................................................... 31
To Raise or Drop the Feed Dogs ......................................... 13
Pressure Lever ..................................................................... 13 SECTION IV DECORATIVE STITCHING
Presser Foot Lifter .............................................................. 13 TECHNIQUES
Changing Needles ............................................................... 14 Overedge Sewing (2), (3) ................................................. 32
To Attach and Remove the Presser Foot ............................. 14 Sewing Buttons ................................................................. 33
To Remove and Attach the Foot Holder ............................. 14 Sensor Buttonhole ....................................................... 34-37
Selecting Needle and Thread .............................................. 15 • Automatic buttonholing ................................................ 34
Winding the Bobbin ............................................................ 16 • Sewing preparation ........................................................ 35
• Set the spool ..................................................................... 16 • Starting sewing ............................................................... 36
• Removing the bobbin ....................................................... 16 Adjusting Stitch Width and Density in Buttonholes .... 37
• Winding the bobbin .......................................................... 17 • Sensor buttonhole 09 and 10 ........................................ 38
• Inserting the bobbin .......................................................... 18 • Adjusting the stitch width and
Threading the Machine ....................................................... 19 density in buttonholes 09 and 10.................................. 38
• Threading the machine ..................................................... 19 Corded Buttonholes ......................................................... 39
• Needle threader ................................................................. 20 Free Size Automatic Buttonhole 20 ................................ 40
• Drawing up the bobbin thread .......................................... 21 Zipper Sewing ................................................................... 41
Balanced Thread Tension .................................................... 22 • Put in a zipper ................................................................ 41
• Auto-thread tension .......................................................... 22 • Attaching the zipper foot .............................................. 41
• Fabric preparation ......................................................... 41

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Zipper Sewing, cont’d ....................................................... 42 • Uniform width, length adjustment ............................... 63


Darning .............................................................................. 43 Editing Function (3) ......................................................... 63
• To sew .............................................................................. 43 • Custom stitch sizing ....................................................... 63
• For darning less than 2 cm ............................................ 43
SECTION V CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
• To memorize darning stitches ....................................... 43
Care of Your Machine ...................................................... 64
• Adjusting the shape of darning stitches ...................... 43
Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dogs ...................... 64
Bartacking ......................................................................... 44
Replacing the Bobbin Holder ......................................... 64
• Memorizing bartacking ................................................. 44
Replacing the Light Bulb ................................................. 65
• Adjusting the evenness of bartacking stitches............ 44
• Removing light bulb ...................................................... 65
Rolled Hem ....................................................................... 45
• Attaching light bulb ....................................................... 65
Blind Stitch Hemming ...................................................... 46
Troubleshooting ........................................................... 66, 67
• How to fold the fabric ................................................... 46
• When message appears on the screen ......................... 67
• How to sew ..................................................................... 46
• Changing the needle position ....................................... 46
Pintucking .......................................................................... 47
Quilting .............................................................................. 47
Shell Tack ........................................................................... 48
Applique ............................................................................ 48
Smocking ........................................................................... 49
Fagoting ............................................................................. 49
Scallop Stitch (A), (B) ...................................................... 50
Patchwork .......................................................................... 51
Satin Stitch Sewing ........................................................... 51
Cross Stitch ........................................................................ 52
Decorative Stitch .............................................................. 52
Cording .............................................................................. 53
Twin Needle Stitching ...................................................... 54
Adjusting Pattern Balance .............................................. 55
• Adjusting distorted stretch stitch patterns .................. 55
• Adjusting distorted letters or numbers in
B or C Mode ................................................................... 55
• Adjusting the stitch density for buttonhole 20 ........... 55
Programming Decorative Stitch Patterns 61, 58 ........... 56
• A programmed stitch sewing pattern finishing with
auto-lock, stitches 61, 58, 98 .......................................... 56
Cycle Stitching with Mirror Image Patterns .................. 57
Restarting Programmed Patterns ................................... 57
Elongation ......................................................................... 58
• Sewing sample, stitch pattern 51 .................................. 58
Sewing Letters in Block Style ......................................... 59
Combining Letters in Script Style .................................. 60
Editing Function (1) ......................................................... 61
• Check and correct pattern combination
before sewing ................................................................. 61
• Deleting a stitch pattern, letter or
number by editing .......................................................... 61
• Adding letters or space between letters ...................... 62
Editing Function (2) ......................................................... 63

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SECTION I NAME OF PARTS


Names of Parts
w q
r q Spool holder
e @0 w Spool pin
t e Auto-tension dial
!9 r Upper thread guide
t Thread take-up lever
y
!8 y Face plate
u Thread cutter
u i Needle threader
!7 o Needle plate
i !0 Extension table
!1 Hook cover plate
@6 !2 Hook cover plate release button
o !6 !3 Feed balancing dial
!5 !4 Reverse button
!3 !4
!0 !2 !5 Auto-lock button
!1 !6 Up/down needle button
!7 Speed setting lever
!8 Keyboard
@1 !9 Screen sharpness adjustment dial
@0 LCD screen
@1 Needle clamp
@2
@2 Needle
@3 Presser foot
@4 Foot holder
@5
@5 Thumb screw
@4 @6 Pattern chart
@3 @7 Carrying handle
@7 #7 @8 Bobbin winder spindle
@9 Bobbin winder stopper
@8 #0 Handwheel
@9
#1 Power switch
#0 #2 Machine sockets
#6 #3 Drop feed lever
#4 Free arm
#5 #5 Buttonhole lever
#6 Presser foot lifter
#4 #7

#1 #3

#2

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Screen Sharpness Adjusting Dial


Use this to adjust the sharpness of the liquid crystal
display.
If no indication is shown on the screen after you switch on
the power, adjust the screen brightness with this dial.

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Extension Table

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The extension table provides added sewing surface and
can be easily removed for free arm sewing.

Detaching the table:


Pull the table away from the machine, as illustrated.
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Free arm sewing


Free arm sewing is useful for darning socks or mending
knees, elbows or areas of wear in children’s cloths.
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Attaching the table:


Push the extension table until it snaps into the machine.
q w
q Projection
w Hole

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Standard Accessories
e u q Bobbins
w H: Cording foot
q e G: Blind hem foot
y r D: Hemmer foot
G A
E
F
D
H
C
t C: Overedge foot
y E: Zipper foot
u A: Zigzag foot
t * It is attached on the machine.
i F: Satin stitch foot
i
r w

o !0
o Screwdriver
!0 R: Automatic buttonhole foot

!1 !1 Lint brush
!2 Set of needles
!2 !3 Seam ripper
!3 !4 Spool holder (Large)

!6 * It is attached on the machine.


!5 Spool holder (Small)
!6 Additional spool pin
!4 !5 !7 @1
!7 Felt
!8 Spool base

!8 !9 @0 !9 L: Quilting bar
@0 M: Overcasting foot
@1 P: Darning foot

@2
@3
@2 Foot control
@3 Power supply cord

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SECTION II GETTING READY TO SEW


Connecting Machine to Power Supply
r Before connecting the power supply, make sure the
voltage and frequency shown on the machine conform to
your electrical power.
Turn off the power switch, and insert the foot control plug
q , machine plug w , into the machine and power supply
plug e into the outlet in the following order.
w
q Foot control plug
t
w Machine plug
e Power supply plug
q r Power switch
y t Power supply cord
y Foot control

For Your Safety


* While in operation, always keep your eyes on the
sewing area. Do not touch any moving parts such as the
thread take-up lever, handwheel or needle.
e
* Always turn off the power switch and unplug from the
power supply:
– When leaving the machine unattended
– When attaching or removing parts
– When cleaning the machine
* Do not place anything on the foot control, when not
sewing.
Operating instructions
“For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade wider
than the other), to reduce the risk of electric shock, this
plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
it does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still
does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the
proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.”
Foot controller Model 21371 for use with Sewing Machine
MC4400.

Controlling Sewing Speed


Speed setting lever
The maximum sewing speed can be controlled by the
speed setting lever. To increase the speed, slide the lever to
the right (toward “ ”).
To decrease the sewing speed, slide the lever to the left
(toward “ ”).

Foot control
Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.
The harder you press on the control, the faster the
machine runs.
Note: The Memory Craft 4400 is equipped with a
protective circuit to prevent overheating.
The machine will stop automatically if it is running
overloaded for a long time. In such a case, follow the
message that appears on the LCD screen.

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r t y u i o !0 !1 !2

q !5
w
e

!4 !3

Main Function of Buttons / Keys


• Up/down needle position button
When the Up/down needle position button is pressed, the
needle bar goes down and stops in the lowest position.
q When pressed again, the needle bar goes up and stops in
the highest position.
* When this button is pressed, the needle bar alternates
between up and down positions when the machine
stops.

• Auto-lock button
When stitches are selected, the machine will
immediately sew locking stitches when the auto-lock
button is pressed, then automatically stop.
w When sewing all other stitches, the machine will sew
locking stitches at the end of the current pattern and
automatically stop.

• Reverse button
When stitches are selected, the machine will sew in
reverse while the reverse button is pressed.
If you press the reverse button when sewing all other
e stitches, the machine will immediately sew locking stitches
and automatically stop.

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• Mode selection key


By pressing the key, LED light will move step by step to
select the stitch mode, as shown.
Direct Mode: Direct mode pattern selection
A Mode: Pattern selection using number keys (utility
and decorative stitches)
r B Mode: Character selection using number keys
(block type)
C Mode: Character selection using number keys
(script type)

• Twin needle key


A Just press this button and “ A ” mark will appear on the
t display screen.
Press button again for single needle sewing.

• Editing key
This button can be used for adding, deleting and changing
combinations and monograms before sewing while
y programming stitch patterns or monograms.
For editing, use the stitch width “+” or “–” key to select
editing position (see page 61, 62).
[Manual setting function of the zigzag width and stitch
length for programmed patterns]
The individual programmed zigzag pattern width or stitch
length can be changed (see page 63).

• Stitch width selection key


Press “+” or “–” to change the stitch width.

• Stitch length selection key


Press “+” or “–” to change the stitch length.

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• Message key
When Message key is pressed, a detailed message will
o display suitable stitches, patterns and machine settings.

m
.co • Turn-over memory key
(To memorize the pattern in mirror image)
Select a desired pattern and press TOM key so the
es
!0 selected pattern’s mirror image will be shown on the
screen.
Use this key to memorize and sew patterns in a mirror
image. Programmed letters or numbers will be reduced to
2/3 of their actual size when you press the TOM key.
uid

• Elongation key
(For A Mode)
Stitches 45 to 60 ( )
!1 can be elongated up to five times their normal length by
pressing this key.
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• Stock/call key
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When you press the Stock/call key after memorizing a


pattern or editing patterns, the currently registered
!2 patterns will be deleted and new patterns will be stored.
Other than this, you can recall the stored patterns when
you press the Stock/call key.
You can store a maximum of 50 programmed patterns and
sew.
* You cannot store the Direct mode patterns and
buttonholes also you cannot memorize
( ) patterns by using
memory key (see page 10).

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• Clear key
If an incorrect pattern is memorized, pressing this key will
immediately clear it (like a backspace key).
!3 C

• Memory key
When this key is pressed after selecting a pattern, the
pattern will be memorized as many times as the key is
!4 M pressed. When the key is pressed after selecting another
pattern, that pattern will be memorized after the
previously memorized pattern.
(The maximum number of memory patterns is 50)
* The following patterns cannot be memorized.

* The Direct mode patterns and buttonholes cannot be


memorized.

• Direct pattern selection and number keys


!5 [Direct pattern selection]
You can select the patterns 1 to 10, also buttonhole
stitches, square buttonhole to keyhole buttonhole when
the mode key is set at the Direct mode.
In A Mode 01~96, the patterns 01 to 10 can be selected by
pressing two-digit numbers.
SEN

[Number keys]
Press number keys of the pattern number to select the
desired pattern.

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• Pattern selection and screen indication


z Select the Direct mode pattern selection.
x Press the pattern key on the keyboard.
z Example: Pattern 05, as shown.
c The display screens shows from left to right:
q Stitch pattern: 05
w Thread tension: A U TO
y
e Presser foot: A
c
r Stitch width: 5.0
t Stitch length: 2.0
y Buzzer sound on:
(see page 12 to mute the buzzer sound)
q w e rt
x

SEN

• Number key selection


You can select the patterns by pressing number keys.
Example: pattern number 51

SEN

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Memory Mode/Buzzer Sound/Multiple


z Language Settings
NORMAL / RESUMPTION Mode
z Turn on the power switch while pressing the memory
key.
q Memory key
w Power switch
M w x Select “ 1 ” on the number key to access the
NORMAL/RESUMPTION mode.
q You can select the mode by pressing the stitch width
key “+” or “–”.
* NORMAL mode – The last selected pattern setting
will not be recalled when you turn on your machine.
Machine turns on in straight stitch 01, Direct mode.
* RESUMPTION mode – The last sewn pattern setting
will always be recalled when you turn on your
machine. The machine will turn on in the mode of the
sewn stitch pattern.
c Select the desired mode: NORMAL SET or
x RESUMPTION SET.
v Press the Memory key.

c e
Buzzer
z Turn on the power switch while pressing the memory
key.
r q Memory key w Power switch
x Select “ 2 ” by pressing the number key to access the
Buzzer mode.
You can select the mode by pressing the stitch width
x “+” or “–”.
c Select desired mode “–” SOUND ON or “+” SOUND
OFF.
c v Press the memory key.
* The Buzzer sound setting mark will appear on the
screen when you have set it .
Language selection setting
t z Turn on the power switch while pressing the memory
key.
q Memory key
w Power switch
x Select “ 3 ” by pressing the number key to access
language selection settings.
x
You can select the desired language by pressing stitch
width “+” or “–”.
c c Select the desired language.
e NORMAL / RESUMPTION
r Buzzer sound “ ON ” or “ OFF ”
t Multiple language
v Press Memory key.
u y NORMAL / RESUMPTION
v M y
u Buzzer sound setting mark

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To Raise or Drop the Feed Dogs


q
• For button sewing etc., drop the feed dogs.
w q • When finished sewing, raise the feed dogs.
The feed dogs must always be up for normal sewing.
w q Lowered position
w Raised position

Pressure Lever
The pressure levr should be set at “ 3 ” for regular sewing.
Reduce the pressure to “ 2 ” for applique, cutwork, drawn work,
basting and embroidery.
Set the pressure to “ 1 ” when sewing chiffon, lace, organdy
and other fine fabrics. Velour and knit with a lot of stretch may
also require a “ 1 ” setting.
q Align the setting mark on the lever with the desired number.
q Pressure lever

Presser Foot Lifter


The presser foot lifter raises and lowers your presser foot.
You can raise it about 0.6 cm (1/4˝) higher than the normal up
w position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you
place heavy fabric under the foot.
q Normal up position
w Highest position

w
q

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Changing Needles
z x
q w z Raise the needle by pressing the Up/down needle
position key and lower the presser foot.
Turn off the power switch.
Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it
counterclockwise.
e Remove the needle from the clamp.
x Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the
flat side to the rear.

m
When inserting the needle into the clamp, push it up
as far as it will go. Tighten the clamp screw firmly by
turning it clockwise.
c
c To check for a good needle, put the flat side of the

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needle onto something flat (the needle plate, glass
etc.).
The gap between the needle and the flat surface
should be consistent. Never use a bent or blunt needle.
q Needle clamp screw
w Pin
es
e Needle clamp

To Attach and Remove the Presser Foot


z x
uid

z Press the red button on the back of the foot holder.


The presser foot will drop off.
x Place the selected presser foot so the pin on the foot
lies just under the groove of the foot holder.
e Lower the presser bar to lock the foot in place.
w q Red button
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q
w Groove
e Pin
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To Remove and Attach the Foot Holder


z x
z To Remove:
Remove the screw by turning the screw
counterclockwise with the screwdriver.
q w
x To Attach:
Match the hole in the foot holder with the threaded
hole in the presser bar.
e Fit the screw into the hole.
Tighten the screw by turning it clockwise.
q Screw
w Foot holder
e Presser bar

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Selecting Needle and Thread

FABRICS THREADS NEEDLE SIZE

Crepe de Chine, Fine Silk


Voile, Lawn, Fine Cotton
LIGHT WEIGHT Organdy, Fine Synthetic 9 or 11
Georgette,Tricot Fine Cotton-covered Polyester

Linens, Cotton, 50 Silk


Pique, Serge, 50 to 80 Cotton
MEDIUM WEIGHT Double Knits, 50 to 60 Synthetic 11 or 14
Percale Cotton-covered Polyester

Denim, tweed, 50 Silk


Gabardine, Coating, 40 to 50 Cotton
HEAVY WEIGHT Drapery, and 40 to 50 Synthetic 14 or 16
Upholstery Fabric Cotton-covered Polyester

NOTE:
* In general, fine threads and needles are used for sewing fine fabrics, and thicker threads and needles are used for sewing
heavy fabrics.
Always test thread and needle size on a small piece of fabric which will be used for actual sewing.
* Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.
* When sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and synthetics, use a blue tipped needle.
The blue tipped needle effectively prevents skipped stitches.

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Winding the Bobbin


e w q
• Set the spool
Lift up the spool pin and place the spool of thread on it
with the thread coming off the spool as shown.
Press the large spool holder firmly against the spool of
thread.
* The small spool holder is used with a small or narrow
r t spool of thread.
q Spool pin
w Ordinary spool
e Large spool holder
r Small spool holder
t Small spool

• Removing the bobbin


Gently slide the hook cover plate release button to the
q
right and remove the cover plate.
Lift out the bobbin.
q Hook cover plate release button
w Hook cover plate

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• Winding the bobbin


t
z Guide the thread around the thread guide.
r x Thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside
w to the outside.
e x * The additional spool pin is used to wind an extr
q bobbin without unthreading the machine. To use,
insert the spool stand and the additional spool pin
in the hole. Place the felt and spool on the pin with
the thread coming off the spool as shown.
q Hole for additional spool pin r Felt
w Spool stand t Spool
e Additional spool pin

c Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle, and push


c it to the right. With the free end of the thread held in
y your hand, depress the foot control. Stop the machine
when it has made a few turns, and cut the thread close
to the hole in the bobbin.
y Bobbin winder stopper

v Depress the foot control again. When the bobbin is


vb fully wound, it will stop automatiaclly.
b Return the bobbin winder to its original position by
moving the spindle to the left, and cut the thread as
shown.

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• Inserting the bobbin


z z Place the bobbin in the bobbin holder with the thread
running off counterclockwise.
q End of thread

x x Guide the thread into the notch A on the front side of


the bobbin holder.
w Notch A

c c Continue to draw the thread lightly. The thread slips


into notch B .
Pull out about 15 cm (6˝) of thread.
e Notch B
e

r
v v Attach the hook cover plate.
Check the threading by referring to the chart shown on
the hook cover plate.
r Threading chart

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Threading the Machine


e
t • Threading the machine

* Raise the presser foot lifter.


* Press the up/down needle position key twice to raise
the needle.
q q Up/down position key

m
w Presser foot lifter
r w
u
y

z e

.co z Draw the thread around the upper thread guide.


e Upper thread guide
es
x Then, down around the check spring holder.
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x
r Check spring holder

r
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c Firmly draw the thread from right to left over the take-
c t up lever and down into the take-up lever eye.
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t Thread take-up lever

v Then, down through the lower thread guide.


vb
y y Lower thread guide

b Slide the thread behind the needle bar thread guide on


the left.
u Thread the needle from front to back or use the needle
threader.
u Needle bar thread guide
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• Needle threader
z
z Lower the presser foot. Depress the needle threader
knob as far as it will go. The hook comes out through
the needle eye from behind.
q Needle threader knob
w Hook

x x Draw the thread down around the threadre guide and


under the hook.
e Threader guide

w
e

c c Release the threader knob slowly while holdeing the


thread end with your hand. A loop of the thread is
pulled up through the needle eye.

v v Remove the loop from the threader and pull out the
thread end from the needle eye.

NOTE:
The needle threader works well with the threads #50-100
and needles #11-16, the blue tipped needle as well.

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• Drawing up the bobbin thread


z z Raise the presser bar lifter, hold the end of the thread
as shown.

x x Press the Up/down needle position button twice to pick


up the bobbin thread.
Draw up the needle thread together with a loop of
bobbin thread.
q Up / down needle position button

c c Pull both threads under the presser foot and to the


back of the presser foot leaving clear 10 to 15 cm
w (4˝ to 6˝) of the threads.
w Needle thread
e Bobbin thread

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Balanced Thread Tension


q • Auto-thread tension
When the thread tension dial is set at “ AUTO ” for
automatic thread tension, the green light will be on.
The balanced thread tension is set automatically.
w q Set “ AUTO ” mark of thread tension dial with the
e
indication line.
w Green light on or off.
e Display screen shows “ AUTO ”.
t For straight stitch sewing, both needle and bobbin threads
r
u will join at the middle of the fabric.
For zigzag stitch sewing, the needle thread will appear
z slightly on the wrong side of the fabric.
z Balanced thread tension:
r Wrong side of fabric
t Right side of fabric
y y Bobbin thread
u Top thread (needle thread)

• Manual thread tension adjustment


r If the thread tension doesn't balance, set the thread
t
tension dial at 0 to 9 and green light will disappear and
u
x you can adjust the desired thread tension setting manually.
The screen shows the recommended tension setting for
c normal sewing.
y x If the top thread is too tight, the bobbin thread appears
4 3 on the right side of the fabric.
5
r Wrong side of fabric
t Right side of fabric
y Bobbin thread
w i u Top thread (needle thread)
i Display screen tension setting

c Turn the thread tension dial in the direction of the


r arrow to decrease the number.
t
u v If the top thread is too loose, the bobbin thread
v appears on the underside of the fabric.
r Wrong side of fabric
b t Right side of fabric
y Bobbin thread
y
4 u Top thread (needle thread)
5 3
i Display screen tension setting

b Turn the thread tension dial in the direction of the


arrow to increase the number.
w i

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SECTION III BASIC SEWING


Straight Stitch Sewing
q w
q Stitch pattern: 01
w Presser foot: Foot A or foot H

• Starting to sew
Raise the presser foot and position the fabric next to a
seam guide line on the needle plate (see page 24).
Lower the needle to the point where you want to start.
Lower the presser foot and pull the threads toward the
back. Depress the foot control. Gently guide the fabric
along a seam guide line letting the fabric feed naturally.

• Changing sewing direction


Stop the machine and bring the needle down into the
fabric by pressing the Up/down needle position button.
Raise the presser foot.
q Pivot the fabric around the needle to change sewing
direction as desired. Lower the presser foot.
q Up/down needle position button
w Presser foot lifter
w

• Finishing sewing
To fasten the ends of seams, press the reverse button and
sew several reverse stitches.
Raise the presser foot. Remove the fabric, draw the
threads to the back and cut using the thread cutter.
The threads are cut at the proper length for starting the
next seam.
– When pattern is selected, reverse stitches are
sewn automatically at the beginning of the seam,
e then sewing continue forward.
– When you reach the end edge of the fabric, press
w
the reverse button once.
The machine will sew four reverse stitches, four
q forward stitches then stop sewing.
q Reverse button
w Thread cutter
e Fabric

23
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Practice Common Stitching Skills


q w Using the Seam Guides on the Needle Plate
e The seam guides on the needle plate are engraved to help
you measure seam width.
The lines are marked as follows.
Numbers on needle plate 15 20 4/8˝ 5/8˝ 6/8˝
Seam width center
needle position guide 1.5 2.0 1.3 1.6 1.9
line (cm)

* The numbers indicate the width from the center needle


position to the edge of the fabric.

m
q Needle drop position e Guide lines
w Edge of fabric
Turning Square Corners
Turning a square corner 1.5 cm (5/8 ˝) from the fabric

.co
edge:
1. Stop stitching and lower the needle by pressing the
w Up/down needle position button when the fabric edge
facing you lines up with the cornering guides as shown.
2. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to line up to
the edge with the 1.5 cm (5/8 ˝) seam guide.
q 3. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the new
es
e direction.
q Up/down needle button e Presser bar lifter
w Cornering guides
Using the Quilting Bar
The stitch and its uses:
Quilting is stitching two layers of fabric together with batting
uid

in between to add dimension and warmth.


You can use quilting on entire garments or parts of
garments, such as yokes, pockets, cuffs and collars.
q It is also popular for table fashions.
w In addition to straight stitch quilting, you can quilt with
decorative stitches or stitch pattern combinations.
To do quilting successfully, follow these simple steps:
-g

1. Loosen the quilter screw qon the back of the presser


foot holder as shown.
2. Slide the quilting bar w into the opening under the
screw to the width of quilting stitches you desire.
3. Tighten screw.
all

e 4. See page 47 for how to operate.


q Screw e Measurement lines
w Quilting bar
Sewing on Heavy Fabrics
The black button on foot A will lock the foot in a horizon-
tal position if you push it in before lowering the presser
foot. This ensures even feeding at the beginning of seams
and helps when sewing many layers of fabric such as
sewing over welt seams when hemming jeans.
q When you reach the point of an increased thickness, lower
the needle and raise the presser foot. Press the toe of the
foot and push in the black button, then lower the foot and
w continue sewing.
This button releases automatically after a few stitches.
Note: When sewing an edge, select stitch pattern 02.
q Fabric w Black button

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• Manual stitch length


Press “–” or “+” to adjust the stitch length.
To decrease length, press “–”.
To increase length, press “+”.
The pre-programmed stitch length setting is suitable for
most of your sewing needs. However, you can change these
settings to accommodate different fabric characteristics or
achieve a desired effect.
Hold down “–” or “+” until you reach the desired setting.
* The reverse stitch length cannot be set longer than
2.5 mm (1/8˝).

• Variable needle position


These setting apply only to “straight” stitch patterns 01
through 04, and 11, 24, 29, 30.
You can adjust needle position of stitch patterns 01
through 04 and 11, 24, 29, 30 (see bottom of box on left).
When you press “–”, the needle position will move to the
left.
When you press “+”, the needle position will move to the
right.
q Left (0.0)
w Middle (3.5)
e Rigth (7.0)

q w e

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Various Utility Stitches


q e • Basting
w
q Stitch pattern : 24
w Presser foot: Darning foot P
e Thread tension dial : 1 to 4
r Feed dogs : Down
r * Set the manual thread tension at “ 1 to 4 ”.

Attaching the basting foot:


z z Raise the needle.
q x Remove the foot holder by loosening the screw.
c Attach the basting foot on the presser bar putting the
pin on the needle clamp.
x Tighten the screw firmly with a large
screwdriver.
w
q Foot holder
e c w Screw
e Pin
r Needle clamp

w
r

How to sew
z Put some fabric under the foot and press the Up/down
needle button twice to bring the needle thread down
through the hole in the foot. Pull the fabric and thread
to the rear. Lower the presser foot.
x While pressing down the foot control, hold the fabric
taut.
c When the machine is stopped after one stitch sewing,
pull the fabric with the thread to the back.
v Repeat steps 2 and 3 to sew. After finishing sewing, pull
zxcv
the threads and fabric to the back and cut the threads.
* After sewing, reset the thread tension dial at “ AUTO ”
and raise the feed dogs, slide the drop feed lever to the
left.

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• Straight stitch
q w The common uses for the straight stitch are:
Regular seams and zippers:
q Stitch pattern : 01
e w Presser foot : Foot A or zipper foot E

Edge sewing:
q w q Stitch pattern : 02
w Presser foot : Foot A
You can also use your basic straight stitch for pintucking
and rolled hems.

• Automatic reverse stitch


q Select stitch pattern : 03
w Presser foot : Foot A
q w
This reverse stitch can be used for securing, mending and
reinforcement stitches.
At the end of seams, press “ ” (reverse button) once,
so that the machine will sew auto-lock stitch immediately
and stop automatically.

• Triple stretch stitch


q Stitch pattern : 04
w Presser foot : Foot A
q w
This strong, durable stitch is recommended where both
elasticity and strength are needed for comfort and durabil-
ity.
Use it to reinforce areas such as crotch and armhole seams.
Also use it when constructing items such as backpacks for
extra reinforcement.

• Auto-lock stitch
q Stitch pattern : 11
q w w Presser foot : Foot A
Lower the needle close to the front edge of the fabric and
lower the presser foot.
The machine will sew several locking stitches in place and
continue sewing forward. By pressing the reverse button,
the machine will sew several locking stitches in place, then
stop sewing automatically.

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• Stretch stitch
q Stitch pattern : 17
w Presser foot : Foot A
q w
This stitch is a narrow stretch stitch designed to eliminate
puckering on knit fabrics and bias seam, while permitting
the seam to be pressed completely flat.
The stitch can also be used to simultaneously seam and
overcast when sewing on tricot and chiffon for a narrow,
almost invisible seam finish.

• Saddle stitch
q Stitch pattern : 29
q w Presser foot : Foot A
w
This saddle stitch is formed with one stitch forward, two
stitches backward and a fourth stitch forward.
You can achieve a lovely hand-worked look when
topstitching suits, blazers, jumpers and denim outfits with
the saddle stitch.

• Sculpture stitch
This stitch can be used for decorative stitches.
q w Also, this stitch is useful for making a clear outline of a
design.
q Stitch pattern : 30
w Presser foot : Satin stitch foot F
e Pressure dial : 2
* After sewing is finished, return the pressure dial
to “ 3 ”.

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Zigzag Stitch
q w q Stitch pattern: 05
w Presser foot: Foot A

• Interfacing
You can get better sewing results using interfacing or
stabilizer on delicate or stretch fabric such as knit, jersey,

m
tricot etc.

.co
es
• To change the width and length
Zigzag stitch is useful for overcasting, applique, mending
etc. When you change the stitch width, make sure the
needle position is above the fabric.
uid

1. Pre-programmed stitch settings will be displayed.


2. Press the stitch width key “+” , “–” or stitch length key
“+”, “–” to change the stitch width and length manually.
3. When the “+” or “–” key is pressed, the width and the
length will be changed accordingly.
-g

q Narrower width (smaller number)


w Wider width (large number)
e Denser stitch length (smaller number)
q w e r
r Coarser stitch length (larger number)
all

t Width
y Length

29
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Variation of Zigzag Stitches


q w
• Overcasting
q Stitch pattern: 05
w Presser foot: Overedge foot C

This zigzag variation is very useful in garment construction


and in finishing raw edges of any sewing project.
1. The black ridge and the guide wires on the overedge
foot keep the edge neat and the fabric straight.
2. Place your fabric so that the double guide wires come
to the edge.
The machine will stitch over these wires. The black
ridge and brush will keep the loose threads in so that
the needle can stitch over them.
3. As you sew, be sure your fabric edge pushes up against
the black ridge.

• Tricot stitch
q w q Stitch pattern: 06
w Presser foot: Foot A

This stitch can be used to prevent stretch material edges


from fraying, when sewing folded fabric.
A second method is to keep an extra space allowance from
the fabric edge and after finishing the sewing, cut the extra
seam allowance edge as shown.

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• Knit stitch
q w
q Stitch pattern: 12
w Presser foot: Foot A

Keep an extra space allowance from the fabric edge and


after finishing the sewing, cut the extra seam allowance
edge as shown.

• Overedge sewing (1)


q w q Stitch pattern: 07
w Presser foot: Overedge foot C

This stitch pattern combines the straight and the zigzag


stitches, using the overedge foot, to stitch and overcast
seams in one step.
It is also a stretch stitch to provide elasticity for knits and
extra strength for woven fabrics.
Use this stitch when you want a narrow seam that you do
not have to press open flat.
It is ideal for 6 mm (1/4˝) seams on knits. (when attaching
ribbing) or on medium to heavyweight woven fabrics
where you want a narrow seam.
Place your fabric so that the raw edges fit under the wire
guides and touch the black ridge and brush guide.
Gently guide the fabric so that the raw edges always touch
the black ridge and brush guide.
Note: Stitch width should be set between 5.0 to 7.0.
The Blue tip needle is recommended for stretch
material.

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SECTION IV DECORATIVE STITCHING TECHNIQUES


Overedge Sewing (2)
q w
q Stitch pattern: 13
w Presser foot: Overedge foot C

This stitch can be used for sewing heavier fabrics that tend
to fray extensively such as linens and gabardines.
Two rows of zigzag stitches are simultaneously sewn over
the edge to insure that your seams will not ravel.
Adjust the thread tension so both needle thread and
bobbin thread meet at the edge of the fabric.

Overedge Sewing (3)


q w q Stitch pattern: 14
w Presser foot: Overcasting foot M
e Thread tension: 6-8

This stitch is more like the overlock stitch which is very


convenient to reinforce the fabric edge.
Place the fabric under the foot and guide it to the guide
ridge and lower the presser foot.
* The stitch width cannot be adjusted for this stitch
pattern.

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Sewing Buttons
q w q Stitch pattern: 05
w Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F
e Feed dogs: Down

z Turn the handwheel by hand five times and raise the


z needle to the highest point.
Match the holes on the button to the horizontal slot on
the presser foot.
Lower the foot to hold the button in place.
Lower the feed dogs.
Press the stitch width button “ +” or “–” so the needle
will enter the left hole of the button.
Turn the handwheel so the needle will enter the right
hole of the button.
* Readjust the stitch width if necessary.

x x Place a pin on the foot and stitch ten times.


After you finish sewing, cut the thread but leave 20 cm
(8 ˝) of thread on the wrong side of the fabric.
q Pin

c Bring the needle thread between the button and the fabric
q
through the hole in the button. Pull the needle thread to pick
bobbin thread up to the right side of the fabric. Wind the
threads to form a shank and knot them together.

c Note: When sewing on the button is completed, raise the


w
feed dogs.
The feed dogs must always be up for normal sewing.
w Upper thread
r
e Lower thread
r Shank
t Fabric
e t

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Sensor Buttonhole
• Automatic buttonholing
Note:
* The size of the buttonhole is automatically set by
placing the button in the buttonhole foot, as shown.
* The button holder of the foot takes a maximum button
size of up to 2.5 cm (1˝) in diameter.
* Before you sew the actual buttonholes on the actual
garment, make several practice buttonholes on a scrap
of the same fabric.

m
* Use interfacing on stretch fabrics and set the pressure
dial at 1 or 2 and sew.

08: .............. Square buttonhole stitch

.co
This buttonhole can be used for shirts and
blouses.
08

18/19: ....... These bottonholes can be used for stretch


fabrics.
es
18
uid

19

09: .............. Rounded buttonhole stitch


This buttonhole can be used for shirts and
blouses of fine fabrics.
-g

09

10: .............. Keyhole buttonhole stitch


This buttonhole can be used for jackets of
all

heavy fabrics.

10

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• Sewing preparation
q Stitch pattern: 08
w Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot R
* When you select the buttonhole stitch, the screen
q w indicates the message: “PULL DOWN BH (Button
hole) LEVER” for a few seconds.

z z Attach the automatic buttonhole foot R. Make sure the


groove on the holder catches the pin on the foot, when
lowering the presser foot.
q q Groove
w Pin
w

x x Pull the button holder to the back, and place the button
in it.
Push it together tightly on the button.
R

e Button holder
If the button is extremely thick, make a test buttonhole.
r
If it is difficult to fit the button through the test
buttonhole, lengthen the size by pulling the button
holder on the back to increase length.
r Gap

c Pull the buttonhole lever down as far as it will go.


c t Buttonhole lever

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v After attaching sensor buttonhole foot, raise the foot


v lever once to assure spring is in proper position to
i avoid any gap. Insert corner of fabric under the foot.
Press the Up/down needle button twice.
o Remove the fabric to the left to draw both threads
under the foot.
!0
Insert the garment under the foot, and lower the needle
at the starting point.
Then lower the automatic buttonhole foot.
If there is a gap, it may cause an uneven buttonhole
y stitch length as shown.
y Mark
!1 u Starting point
u i Foot holder
o No gap
!0 Spring holder
!1 Uneven stitch results

Starting sewing
b b After sewing the buttonhole stitch, the machine stops
automatically.

............ Sewing steps:


Step 1 .......... The buttonhole will be automatically sewn
first: the front bartack and left row.
Step 2 .......... Next, the right row.
............ Step 3 .......... Last the back bartack and locking stitch.
Raise the presser foot.
To sew another buttonhole, press 08 on the number key,
then depress the foot control.

............ For buttonhole stitches ( ), you can repeat sewing


without pressing keys.
Raise the presser foot and lower the foot again.

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n After sewing the buttonhole stitch, raise the buttonhole


n lever until it stops.
!2 Buttonhole lever

!2

m Place a pin on the rear side of the bartack position so


m that you don’t need to worry about cutting the end of
!3 !5
the buttonhole stitch.
Cut the opening with the seam ripper in your accessory
!4 box.
!3 Pin
!4 Seam ripper
!5 Punch (use for keyhole buttonhole 10)

Adjusting Stitch Width and Density in Buttonholes


[To change the stitch width]
The stitch width key controls the stitch width.
The pre-set buttonhole widths are: square buttonhole 5.0,
rounded buttonhole 4.0, keyhole buttonhole 7.0.
Press “+” or “–” to adjust the stitch width of the entire
buttonhole, ranging between 2.5 to 7.0 depending on the
selected buttonhole.
q Narrower width by pressing “–”
w Wider width by pressing “+”
[To Change Stitch Density]
The stitch length key controls the stitch density.
q w e r The pre-set density varies from 0.4 to 0.7 according to the
buttonhole selected.
Press “+” or “–” to adjust the stitch density of the entire
buttonhole between 0.2 to 1.0 depending on the selected
buttonhole.
Press “+” or “–” to adjust the stitch density between 0.5
to 1.0 for the buttonhole density for .
e Denser stitch by pressing “–”.
r Coarser stitch by pressing “+”.

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• Sensor buttonhole 09 and 10


q w
q Stitch pattern: 09 or 10
w Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole R

r * Sewing procedure is the same as 08.

z Sewing steps
z
e Starting point
r Bartacking
e
t Stitch pattern 10
t

• Adjusting the stitch width and density in


buttonholes 09 and 10
[To change the stitch density]
The adjustment of the stitch density is between 0.2 to 0.8
the same as buttonhole 08.
Adjustment of the stitch width on buttonhole 09
When you press the zigzag width key, the pre-set
buttonhole width is set for the rounded buttonhole at 4.0.
y u i Press “+” or “–” to adjust the stitch width of the entire
buttonhole between 2.5 to 5.5.
y Width: 2.5
u Width: 4.0
i Width: 5.5
Adjustment of the stitch width on buttonhole 10
When you press the zigzag width key, the pre-set
buttonhole width is set for the keyhole buttonhole at 7.0.
Press “+” or “–” to adjust the stitch width of the entire
buttonhole between 5.5 to .7.0
o Width: 5.5
!0 Width: 6.0
!1 Width: 7.0
o !0 !1

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Corded Buttonholes
q w
q Stitch pattern: 08
w Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot R
Use this procedure when you want to achieve a tailored,
more attractive raised buttonhole.
Use at least 40 cm (15˝) of havy thread as filler cord.
Try a practice buttonhole first.
z Set the automatic buttonhole foot R on the foot holder.
z
r With the buttonhole foot raised, hook the filler cord on
e

m
the spur at the back of the buttonhole foot.
Bring the ends toward you under the buttonhole foot
until they clear the front end.
t Hook the filler cord into the forks on the front of foot
r

.co
R to hold them tight.
e Spur
r Filler cord
t Forks

x Lower the needle into the garment where the button


x hole will start and lower the foot.
es
Sew the buttonhole according to the buttonhole sewing
instructions on page 35.
Each side of the buttonhole and the back bartack will
r be sewn over the filler cord.
Remove the fabric from the machine and cut the
uid

sewing threads.
y Needle thread
y u Bobbin thread

u
-g

c Pull the left end of the filler cord to tighten it.


all

c Thread the end through a darning needle, draw to the


bottom side of the fabric and cut.

39
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Free Size Automatic Buttonhole 20


q Stitch pattern: 20
w Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole R

q w

z Pull the button holder to the back (direction A).


zxc x Insert the fabric under the foot. Press the Up/down
needle button twice. Remove the fabric to the left to
A
draw both threads under the foot.
c Insert the garment under the foot, and lower the needle
q at the starting point.
Then lower the automatic buttonhole foot.
q Button holder
w w Needle thread
e Bobbin thread
r Starting point
e r

v Sew down the left side stopping at the end of the


buttonhole mark.
Press reverse button.
v
t Reverse button
b Depress the foot control.
t The machine will automatically bartack and sew up the
right side of the buttonhole.
Stop the machine when you are directly opposite the
b first stitch on the left hand side.
Press the reverse button.
n Keep the foot control depressed. The machine will
bartack, knot the stitches and automatically stop when
the buttonhole is completed.
m Raise the presser foot.
n
To make the next buttonhole, position the fabric and
step down on the foot control.
The Memory Craft 4400 will sew another buttonhole
identical to the first each time you step down on the
foot control.
* If you would like to change the buttonhole size, select
m buttonhole 20 again.
* If the right and left sides of density are not matching
(see page 55 ).

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Zipper Sewing
q w • Put in a zipper
q Stitch pattern: 01
w Presser foot: Zipper foot E

• Attaching the zipper foot


e r To sew on the left side of the zipper, attach the foot holder
to the right pin on the zipper foot.
To sew on the right side of the zipper, attach the foot
holder to the left pin on the zipper foot.
q Groove
q w w Pin
e To sew left side
r To sew right side

• Fabric preparation
r y Add 1 cm to the zipper size. This is the overall opening
size.
q q Right side of fabric t End of opening
w Opening size y Slider
w e u
e Zipper size u Zipper teeth
r 1 cm (3/8˝) i Zipper tape
i Place right sides of fabric together and sew to the end of
t the zipper opening. Reverse stitch to lock the stitches.
Manually increase the stitch length to 4.5 and sew the
!3 zipper opening.
o (4.5 stitch length) !2 (2.2 stitch length)
!0 End of opening !3 2 cm (3/4˝)
o !1 Reverse stitch

!1
!0 !2

• To sew
z q z Fold back the left seam allowance. Turn under the right
e seam allowance to form a 0.2 to 0.3 cm (1/8˝) fold.
Place the zipper teeth next to this fold and pin in place.
r Attach the zipper foot holder to the right pin on the
w zipper foot.
Lower the zipper foot on the top side at the bottom of
t the zipper so that the needle pierces the fabric next to
the fold and the zipper tape.
u q Fold t Opening size
w 0.3 cm y Lower fabric
y e Stitch line u Wrong side of fabric
r End of opening

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Zipper Sewing, cont’d


x
x Sew through all layers next to fold. Stop 5 cm before
the top of the zipper just before the zipper foot reaches
q the slider on the zipper tape. Lower the needle slightly
into the fabric. Raise the zipper foot and open the
zipper. Lower the foot and stitch the remainder of the
seam.
q Slider
w Stop sewing 5 cm (2˝) before the top of the zipper.
w

c c Close the zipper and spread the fabric flat with the
right side facing up. Baste the opened fabric and zipper
r tape together.
e Wrong side of upper fabric
r Basting stitch
t t Right side of fabric
e y Zipper tape

t
y

v r v Move the zipper foot to the left pin.


Guide the edge of foot along the zipper teeth and stitch
through the garment and zipper tape.
Stop 5 cm (2˝) before the top of the zipper.
t

b b Lower the needle slightly into the fabric, raise the foot,
remove the basting stitches and open the zipper.
Lower the foot and stitch the remainder of the seam,
making sure the fold is even.

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Darning
q w
q Stitch pattern: 22
w Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot R
e e Darning shape: (See below for settings.)

• To sew:
z Pull the button holder to the rear.
x Place the garment under the foot. Press the Up/down
e needle button twice. Raise the foot.
Remove the fabric to the left to draw both threads
under the foot and put the fabric back under the foot.
c Lower the foot. Press down the foot control. The
q r
w machine will lock stitch, sew 16 rows of darning, lock
stitch again and the machine will stop automatically.
* The size of one darn cycle is variable. However, the
zxc w maximum stitch length is 2 cm (3/4˝) and the maximum
stitch width is 7 mm (9/32˝).
v Turn the fabric and repeat sewing for reinforcement.
q Button holder
v
w Starting point
e 2 cm (3/4˝)
r 0.7 cm (9/32˝)

t • For darning less than 2 cm


Switch to “Low” speed setting. 4 lock stitches will be sewn
first. Then sew to the desired length and press the reverse
button. The desired length has now been determined.
y Continue sewing until the machine stops automatically.
t Reverse button
y Desired stitch length
w
• To memorize darning stitches
When repeatedly sewing the same-size darn to repair a
side rip or belt loop, press “Memory” key and restart
sewing.

• Adjusting the shape of darning stitches


If one side of the darn is higher than the other, make them
even by pressing the stitch length “+” or “–” key.
When you press the “+” or “–” key, d3 will be indicated
automatically.
u i o !0 You can adjust the shape of the darn by pressing “+” or
“–” key, d1 to d5.
u When the left side is lower
i Select “d1” or “d2” to balance the stitches.
o When the right side is lower.
!0 Select “d4” to “d5” to balance the stitches.

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Bartacking
q w
q Stitch pattern: 23
w Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F
Switch to “Low” speed setting. Four lock stitches will be
sewn first. Then sew to the desired length and press the
reverse button.
The desired length has been now determined. Continue
sewing until the machine stops automatically.
w * This stitch is used for reinforcement of the heavily
strengthened part of a garment.

m
The maximum bartack length is 1.5 cm (5/8˝) dependent
e on fabric.
When you change the stitch length or stitch width, press

.co
width key “+” or “– ”, or length key “+” or “–”.
q
q Starting position
w Ending position
e Pre-set 1.5 cm (5/8˝)
To sew less than 1.5 cm (5/8˝) of bartacking, sew the length
required, then press the reverse button. The length is
r
es
memorized. Depress the foot control until the machine
stops automatically.

• Memorizing bartacking
r u When repeatedly sewing the same size bartack, press
uid

t Memory key and restart sewing.


○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

r Length required
r
t Reverse button
y Starting position
y
u Ending position
-g

• Adjusting the evenness of bartacking stitches


o !1 !2
!3 Make a test on an extra piece of fabric to check your
!0 !4 settings.
If the bartacking is uneven, adjust the stitch length by
all

turning the feed balancing dial as shown.


i Starting position
i o An extra length is left from the starting position.
!0 Turn the feed balancing dial to “+” direction.
!1 Matching the position. (Correct position)
!2 An extra length is left at the returning position.
!3 Returning position.
!4 Turn the feed balancing dial to “ – ” position.

44
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Rolled Hem
q w
q Stitch pattern: 01
w Presser foot: Hemmer foot D

z Make a double 0.3 cm (1/8˝) fold approximately 6 cm


z w
(2˝) in length.
* Use iron on the folded edge so that you can guide the
fabric easily.
q Wrong side of fabric
r e q
w Right side of fabric
e 6 cm(2˝)
r 0.3 cm(1/8˝)

x Trim about 0.7 cm(1/4˝) from corners to reduce bulk.


x t
t Edge of fabric
y Approximately 0.6 cm (1/4˝)
y
u u Trimming part

c c Lower the needle into the fabric at the point where


sewing is to begin. Then lower the hemmer foot.
Sew 3 to 4 stitches while holding the needle and bobbin
threads.
t t Edge of fabric
i Guide

v v Lower the needle into the fabric and lift the hemmer
foot. Insert the folded portion of the fabric into the curl
of the hemmer foot.
t t Edge of fabric
o Curl of foot
o

b b Lower the hemmer foot, then sew by lifting up the edge


of the fabric to keep it feeding smoothly and evenly.

45
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Blind Stitch Hemming


q w
q Stitch pattern: 16 or 15
w Presser foot: Blind hem foot G

• How to fold the fabric


w q Wrong side of fabric
q w 0.4 to 0.7 cm (1/8˝ to 3/8˝)
e Overedge stitch
e

• How to sew
z z When the needle comes to the left hand side, position
the fabric so that the folded edge comes to the left side
of the guide. Lower the presser foot.
* Adjust the position of the needle swing with the stitch
width key so that the needle just pierces the folded
edge of the fabric when the needle comes to the left
side.
Sew guiding the folded edge along the guide.
x Open the fabric after sewing.
* For a professional looking hem, try not to let the needle
x
piece more than 0.2 cm (1/8˝) into the fold.
If the folded edge is pierced too far to left side, you can
not expect a good seam on the right side of the fabric.

• Changing the needle position


When the zigzag width key is pressed, the pre-set needle
position is shown at 0.6.
* The indication at 0.6 is the needle drop position from
the presser foot guide.
* When you select the stitch pattern 16, the stitch width
will not change, but the needle drop position from the
foot guide will be changed.
r The needle drop position is shifted to the right side

r t y t The needle drop position is shifted to the left side.


y Guide
u When the needle comes to the left side
i When the needle comes to the right side
u

46
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Pintucking
q w
q Stitch pattern: 02
w Presser foot: Blind hem foot G

z Attach the blind hem stitch foot.


z Place the folded fabric under the presser foot.
Position the needle 0.1 to 0.2 cm (1/16˝) inside from
the folded edge by turning the handwheel and lower
the presser foot.
Feed the folded edge smoothly against the sliding
guide.

x x After sewing is finished, use an iron to make pleats.

Quilting
q w
q Stitch pattern: 01
w Presser foot: Foot A
e e Quilting bar L

The quilting guide will help to keep the stitching lines


q straight.
w Insert the quilting bar in the opening, and slide it at the
desired width.
e
q Setscrew
w Opening
e Quilting bar
r Seam spacing

47
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Shell Tack
q w
q Stitch pattern: 25
w Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

* Use a light weight fabric such as tricot.


Fold and stitch on the bias. When the needle swings to
the right, allow the needle to just clear the folded edge
of the fabric.
Open the fabric and iron on one side of the fabric.
* For the shell stitch, be aware that thread tension may
have to be adjusted depending on the fabric for the
best sewing results.
q
q Fold fabric
w Folded edge
w

Applique
q w
q Stitch pattern: 26
w Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F
e Pressure dial: 2
e * Stitch patterns, (27, 28) can also be used.

Applique, a technique for stitching fabric shapes onto


another fabric, opens limitless design possibilities.
Dimension and texture can be added by lightly stuffing all
q or part of a design. This machine has several different
patterns that can be used to enhance your applique.
In this type of applique raw edges are folded under.
To finish the raw edge, cut the applique design out of
cardboard. Fuse a lightweight interfacing to the wrong
w side of the fabric then cut the fabric slightly larger than the
cardboard.
e Fold the fabric around the cardboard and press to form a
perfectly shaped design.
Tape the applique in place and sew, guiding the slit on foot
F next to the finished edge of the applique.
q Applique fabric
w Slit
e Edge
* After sewing, return the pressure dial to 3.
48
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Smocking
q w
q Stitch pattern: 38
w Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F
* Stitch patterns (41, 65, 66, 88) can also be used.
For a delicate, decorative treatment, smocking can be
applied whenever gathers are used. Turn a child's dress
into something very special or smock a yoke on a blouse.
Choose a soft, lightweight fabric such as batiste, gingham
or challis. Cut the fabric three times the finished width.

m
(Straight stitch)
With the manual stitch length at 0.3 to 0.4 cm (1/8˝) sew
straight lines 1 cm (3/8˝) apart, across the area to be
smocked.

.co
A looser needle thread tension will make gathering easier.

(Decorative sewing)
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull the bobbin threads
and distribute the gathers evenly. Secure the threads at the
es
other end.
Reduce the tension and pressure if necessary and sew
decorative pattern stitches between the straight seams.
Pull out the gathering stitches.
uid

Fagoting
q w
q Stitch pattern: 36
-g

w Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F


* Stitch patterns (32, 37 and 40) can also be used.
all

Use this stitch to join two pieces of fabric to create an


open work appearance and add design interest.
Fold under each fabric edge 1.5 cm (5/8˝) and press.
Pin the two edges to paper or tear away backing 0.3 cm
(1/8˝ )apart.
Sew slowly, guiding the fabric so the needle catches the
folded edge on each side.
After finishing the sewing, take off the paper.

49
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Scallop Stitch ( A )
q w
q Stitch pattern: 33
w Presser foot: Foot A

z Fold hem with right sides together. Sew scallops 1 cm


z (3/8˝) from folded edge.
q x Trim close to stitching leaving 0.3 cm (1/8˝) seam
allowance. Clip seams as shown or trim with pinking
shears. Turn the hem to right side and press.

Scallop Stitch ( B )
q w
q Stitch pattern: 34
w Presser foot: Foot A
* Stitch pattern 47 can also be used.

z Sew the stitches approximately 1 cm (3/8˝) inside of the


z edge of fabric.
x Trim the outside of the stitches as shown. Make sure
you don’t cut the thread.

50
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Patchwork
q w
q Stitch pattern: 31
w Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

Sew seam with straight stitch and press seam allowance to


open.
Sew pattern stitch 31 on right side of garment centering
over the seam line.
q q q Right side of fabric

Satin Stitch Sewing


q w
q Stitch pattern: 52
w Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F
* Stitch patterns (45 to 64) can also be used.

To get fine sewing results, interfacing should be used on


the wrong side of fabric when you use stretch or elastic
garments.
Press Auto-lock button to finish the end of the pattern.
q Auto-lock button

51
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Cross Stitch
q w
q Stitch pattern: 72
w Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F
* These stitch patterns (74 to 76) can also be used.

You will love the beautiful designs you can sew with this
craft stitch pattern, and in half the time it would take if
embroidered by hand. Cross stitches can be effectively
combined with the other craft patterns for attractive
samplers and other sewing projects.
A plain close weave such as linen or wool flannel make the
best background fabric.
Support lightweight fabrics with a stabilizer backing.
* The size of cross stitch can be adjusted by pressing the
stitch width key “+”or “–”.

Decorative Stitch
q w
q Stitch pattern: 95
w Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F
* Stitch patterns (35 to 44, 65 to 71, 77 to 97) can also be
used.

The satin stitches also are used for decorative stitches on


table linens, etc.
For the best sewing results, carefully align and guide the
fabric when you sew with decorative stitches.
Use a tear-away backing if necessary.

52
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Cording
q w
q Stitch pattern: 46
w Presser foot: Cording foot H
Sew over one strand of cording to create a pretty swirled
design on a jacket or vest or sew over three strands of
cording for border trims. Pearl cotton, knitting yarn,
embroidery floss, lace thread, fine wool or lily yarn can be
used for cording.
(Triple cording)
z z Mark the design on the right side of the fabric.
Slide the sewing threads to the left and insert three
strands of cording into the slots of foot H with 10 cm
(4˝) extending behind the foot.
x The slot on foot H will hold the lengths of cording in
place while the stitches form over the cording.
c Stitch slowly and smoothly turning the fabric as you
sew while guiding the cording over the marked line.
xc * You may want to reduce the pressure when sewing
curves.

(Single cording)
q w
q Stitch pattern: 05
w Presser foot: Cording foot H
Use the center groove on the foot and adjust the zigzag
width to overlap the cord and sew.

53
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Twin Needle Stitching


q w
q Stitch pattern: 95
w Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F
This machine is equipped with a twin needle that can be
used to sew parallel rows straight on decorative stitches
adding an exquisite touch to table linens and clothing.
* Stitch patterns
(01,05,31,33,34,41,45,47,56,57,59,86,95) can also be
used.

m
Turn off and unplug the machine before changing the
needle to the twin needle.
Insert the additional spool pin, and put the felt and spool
on it with the thread coming off the spool as shown. (see

.co
page 17)

When threading the machine for twin needle sewing


e follow this chart making sure you separate the threads,
placing one in each thread guide on the sides of the bar.
q q – r Threading steps from 1 to 4 are the same as for
es
single thread.
* The additional spool thread should roll out
counterclockwise as shown.
t Slide one of the threads through the needle bar thread
uid

guides, on the left and the other one on the right.


y Thread the needles from front to back.
u Turn the power switch on, select the stitch pattern and
press the twin needle stitch key.
w
* At corners, raise the needle till they clear the fabric.
Partially raise the presser foot and carefully pivot the
-g

fabric.
When twin needle sewing is completed, change needle
and reset tension if necessary and press twin needle
r
key to disengage twin needle function.
all

t * The needle threader cannot be used with twin needles.

54
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Adjusting Pattern Balance


If the decorative stitch patterns, letters, numbers or
manual buttonhole stitch are uneven when you sew on a
particular fabric, adjust them with the feed balancing
dial.
* The machine is set with the feed balancing dial position
with the setting mark as shown.
q q Feed balancing dial
w Standard setting mark
e Indication line

• Adjusting distorted stretch stitch patterns


(A) (B) (C) If the patterns are uneven when sewing with a particular
fabric, adjust them by turning the feed balancing dial with
a coin.
( A ) When patterns are too compressed, correct by turning
(+) (–) the dial in the direction of “+”.
(B) Correct setting
(C) When patterns are too drawn out, correct by turning
the dial in the direction of “–”.

• Adjusting distorted letters or numbers in B or C


(A) (B) (C) Mode
If letters are uneven when sewn on a particular fabric,
select pattern 8 to test the stitch then turn the feed balanc-
ing dial with a coin.
( A ) When the letters or numbers overlap, turn the dial to
(+) (–)
“+”.
(B) Correct setting
(C) When the letters or numbers are too drawn out, turn
the dial to “–”.

• Adjusting the stitch density for buttonhole 20


(A) (B) (C) ( A ) Right side is denser
(B) Correct setting
(C) Left side is denser
If the left side of the buttonhole (A) is coarser than the
(+) (–) right side, turn the feed balancing dial to “+”.
If the right side of the buttonhole (B) is coarser than the
left side, turn the feed balancing dial to the “–”.

55
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Programming Decorative Stitch Patterns 61, 58


To repeat or continue the same combination of stitches,
z just press the foot control.
z Press the Mode key and select A Mode.

x Select stitch pattern 61.


x

c Press memory key.


c M

v Select stitch pattern 58.


SEN

b Press memory key.


b M

• A programmed stitch sewing pattern finishing with


auto-lock, stitches 61, 58, 98
z Stitch patterns: 61, 58, 98
The memorized patterns will be sewn and stop automati-
cally.
z Press the Mode key and select A Mode.
x x Select stitch pattern 61.

c Press memory key.


c M

v
SEN
v Select pattern 58.

b Press memory key.


b M

n Select stitch pattern 98.


SEN

m Press memory key.


m M

56
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Cycle Stitching with Mirror Image Patterns


After selecting a pattern, press the Turn-over memory key.
Press the Mode key and select A Mode.
z
z Press Mode key and select A Mode.

x x Press stitch pattern 50.

c M c Press memory key.

v v Press Turn-over memory (TOM) key

Restarting Programmed Patterns


q e
After stopping in the middle of your sewing, press memory

M key to return to the starting position of your programmed


stitch pattern.
q Contents of program.
w The position where machine is stopped.
e Press memory key after machine is stopped.
w

After stopping in the middle of your sewing, press Turn-


q e over memory key to return to the beginning of the last
pattern sewn.
q Contents of program.
w The position where machine is stopped.
e Press Turn-over memory key after machine is stopped.

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Elongation
q w
q Stitch pattern: 51
w Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

The stitch can be elongated up to five times its normal


length by pressing the “ ” key.
When the width or length or stitch is changed, a greater
variety of patterns are available.
Stitch patterns (45 to 60) can also be used.

X2 X3 X4 X5 q Elongated stitch patterns (Drawings)

• Sewing sample, stitch pattern 51


q w e
q A Mode
w LCD screen
e Stitch patterns
z
z Press the Mode key to select A Mode.

x x Select stitch pattern 51.

c Press memory key.


c M

v v Select stitch pattern 51.

b b Press elongation key twice to make the enlarged stitch


length.

n M n Press memory key.

58
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Sewing Letters in Block Style


q w e
q B Mode
w LCD screen
e Stitch patterns
z z Press the Mode key and select B Mode.

x x Select stitch pattern 29.

m
c M c Press memory key.

.co
v v Select stitch pattern 57.

b M b Press memory key.


es
n n Select stitch pattern 50.

m M m Press memory key.


uid

, , Select stitch pattern 40.

. M . Press memory key.


-g

⁄00 ⁄00 Select stitch pattern 37.


all

⁄11 M ⁄11 Press memory key.

⁄22 ⁄22 Select stitch pattern 61.

⁄3 M ⁄33 Press memory key.

59
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Combining Letters in Script Style


q w e
q C Mode
w LCD screen
e Stitch patterns
z
z Press the Mode key and select C Mode.

x x Select stitch pattern 11.

c M c Press memory key.

v v Select stitch pattern 63.

b M b Press memory key.

n n Select stitch pattern 12.

m M m Press memory key.

, , Select stitch pattern 63.

. M . Press memory key.

⁄00 ⁄00 Select stitch pattern 13.

⁄11 M ⁄11 Press memory key.

⁄22 ⁄22 Select stitch pattern 63.

⁄33 M ⁄3 Press memory key.

60
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Editing Function (1)


q w
• Check and correct pattern combination before sewing
q Editing key
z w LCD screen
Example: ABCDEFGH have been memorized.
Confirmation of programming.
z Press “EDIT” key.
x The cursor will flash under the first letter selection.

x Shift the cursor by pressing the stitch width key “ +”






or “ – ”.
* The arrow to the right means there are some more

letters after “G”, the arrow to the left means there are

some letters before “B”.

c c Press “EDIT” key to return to the starting position.

• Deleting a stitch pattern, letter or number by


q w
editing
q Editing key
z w LCD screen
z Press “EDIT” key.

x x Shift the cursor to letter “D” by pressing the zigzag


width key “+”.

c
C c Press “Clear” key.

v v Press “EDIT” key.

61
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• Adding letters or space between letters


q w
q Editing key
w LCD screen
z z Press “EDIT ” key.

x x Press the stitch width key “+” and shift the cursor past
the last letter where you would like to add letters or
space.

c 67 c Input the stitch pattern 67 (space key).

v M v Press memory key to input stitch pattern 67.

b b Press “EDIT” key.

62
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Editing Function (2)


q w e
• Uniform width, length adjustment
q Stitch width key
w LCD screen
x
e Stitch patterns
r Pre-set stitch width before change
c t Stitch width at 5.0 after selection
The entire programmed stitch pattern is memorized as one
stitch.
The stitch length, stitch width and the of the patterns can
v be adjusted manually as shown.
Example: To adjust the zigzag width:
r
z Press the Mode key and select A Mode
x Input stitch patterns 53, 51 ,53.
t
c Press stitch width key.
v Press “ – ” key to set the stitch width at “5”.

Editing Function (3)


q w e • Custom stitch sizing
q Editing key
x w LCD screen
e Stitch patterns
c Adjust the stitch width and length of the memorized
individual patterns.
(Example): To change the length and width of a
particular pattern (Stitch patterns 53, 51, 53)
z Press the Mode key and select A Mode.
v x Press “EDIT” key.
c Press the stitch width key “+”or “–” to slide the cursor
where you would like to change the stitch pattern
length.
b
v Press “ ” Message key.

b Press Elongation key twice to get “ x2 ” length.

n n Press “ ” Message key.


m Press a“EDIT” key.

63
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SECTION V CARE OF YOUR MACHINE


Care of Your Machine
z q
q Screw driver w Set screw
e
e Needle plate r Bobbin holder
t Lint brush y Feed dogs
u Hook race i Soft, dry cloth
w Press the needle Up/down button to raise the needle and
unplug the machine before cleaning.
x
Do not dismantle the machine other than explained on
this page.
Do not store the machine in a high-humidity area, near a

m
heat radiator or in direct sunlight.
r Clean the outside of the machine with a soft cloth and
neutral soap.
c t

.co
Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dogs
z Remove the presser foot and needle. Remove the
r screw on the left side of the needle plate with the
screwdriver supplied with the machine.
v t
y x Remove the needle plate and take out the bobbin.
Lift up the bobbin holder and remove it.
es
c Brush out dust and lint inside the bobbin holder.
v Clean the feed dogs and the hook race with the lint
u brush.
i b Clean the inside of the bobbin holder with a dry cloth
b
uid

or a lint brush.
* Wipe out gently with soft, dry cloth. You may also use a
vacuum cleaner.
-g

Replacing the Bobbin Holder


z x w q
r Bobbin holder
w Stopper
e
all

Knob
r Needle plate guide pins
t Screwdriver
y Guide holes
q z Insert the bobbin holder so that the knob fits next to
e
c the stopper in the hook race.
x Insert the bobbin.
t c Replace the needle plate, inserting the two needle plate
guide pins into the holes in the needle plate.
Replace the screw.
y

64
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Replacing the Light Bulb


z q Face cover plate
w Lamp socket
e Holder
r Light bulb
t Pins
* Turn the power switch off.
* Wait until the bulb has cooled down before touching it.

q • Removing the light bulb


z Open face cover plate.
e w x Remove the black rubber lamp socket from the lamp
holder and pull out the light bulb.

t • Attaching the light bulb


c To insert the light bulb in the lamp socket, match the pins
r on the light bulb with the lamp socket holes.

xcv v Attach the lamp socket on the holder and close face
cover plate.

65
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Troubleshooting

Condition Cause Reference


The needle thread 1. The needle thread is not threaded properly. Page 19
breaks. 2. The needle thread tension is too tight. Page 22
3. The needle is bent or blunt. Page 14
4. The needle is incorrectly inserted. Page 14
5. The needle thread and the bobbin thread are not drawn to the rear
when sewing is started. Page 21
6. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when sewing is finished. Page 23
7. The thread is too heavy or too fine for the needle. Page 15

The bobbin thread 1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbin holder. Page 18
breaks. 2. Lint has collected in the bobbin holder. Page 64
3. The bobbin is damaged and doesn’t turn smoothly. Change the bobbin

The needle breaks. 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. Page 14


2. The needle is bent or blunt. Page 14
3. The needle clamp screw is loose. Page 14
4. The needle thread tension is too tight. Page 22
5. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when sewing is finished. Page 23
6. The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn. Page 15

Screen is not clear. 1. The sharpness of the liquid crystal display is not adjusted properly. Page 4

Skipped stitches 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. Page 14


2. The needle is bent or blunt. Page 14
3. The needle and/or threads are not suitable for the work being sewn. Page 15
4. A blue tipped needle is not being used for sewing stretch, very fine
fabrics or synthetics. Page 15
5. The needle thread is not threaded properly. Page 19
6. The presser foot pressure is not strong enough. Page 13
7. The wrong needle is being used. Change the needle

Seam puckering 1. The needle thread tension is too tight. Page 22


2. The needle thread is not threaded properly. Page 19
3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn. Page 15
4. The stitch length is too long for the fabric. Make stitch denser
5. The presser foot pressure is not correctly adjusted. Page 13

The cloth is not 1. The feed dog is packed with lint. Page 64
feeding smoothly. 2. The presser foot pressure is too weak. Page 13
3. The stitches are too fine. Make stitch coaser
4. Feed dogs are lowered. Page 13
5. The correct presser foot is not being used. Page 13

66
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Troubleshooting, cont’d

Condition Cause Reference

The machine 1. The machine is not plugged in. Page 6


doesn’t work. 2. A thread is caught in the hook race. Page 64
3. The bobbin winder spindle is still in the winding position. Page 17

Patterns are 1. The correct presser foot is not used. Page 13


distorted. 2. The needle thread tension is too tight. Page 22
3. The stitch length is not suitable for the fabric being sewn. Make stitch adj.
4. Feed balancing dial is not set properly. Page 55
5. Interfacing is not being used for sewing stretch and very fine fabrics. Page 29

The automatic 1. The stitch length is not suitable for the fabric being sewn. Make stitch adj.
buttonhole stitches 2. The feed balancing dial is not set properly. Page 55
are not working. 3. Interfacing is not used with stretch fabrics. Page 29
4. The presser foot is not the correct one. Page 13
5. The machine setting is incorrect. Page 34

Noisy operation 1. There is thread caught in the hook race. Page 64


2. Lint has built up in the bobbin holder or hook race. Page 64
3. Slight humming sound coming from internal motor. Normal
4. The feed dogs are packed with lint. Page 64

Machine stalls and 1. Lint has built up in the hook race. Page 64
the message 2. Needle or bobbin thread is not correctly threaded. Page 18, 19
“STOP FOR 3. The fabric is too thick. Page 24
SAFETY
PURPOSES”
appears on the
screen.

• When message appears on the screen


The liquid crystal display shows “ BOBBIN WINDING ”.
After the bobbin is wound, return the bobbin winder to its
original position by moving the spindle to the left.

The message “ STOP FOR SAFETY PURPOSES.......... ”


appears on the screen when the machine is overloaded.
Stop operating the machine until this message
disappears (about 15 seconds).

67
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