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Reversewing Cropper

Vedervoetige Eksterkropper (NL)


Verkehrtflügelkröpfer (D)
Reverse wing Cropper (GB)
Boulant de Sax Pie (F)

Reversewing Croppers in the colour variety


blue (left) and red (above).
Painted by the famous Dutch pigeon
illustrator Joh. Lentink.
Photos: D.J. Hamer.

This Breed Special was written in


connection with our visit at the Belgian
pigeon fancier Staf Mertens in Kasteren
(B) who specializes in breeding the Reversewing Cropper.
With our thanks to the Dutch Specialty Club for all extra information.

History of the Breed


By 1880 there were already a number of variants of this Breed, in Saxon (Germany) and in
Bohemia (Austria then, now part of the Czech Republic.)
In Saxon it was called the Saxon Magpie Cropper. We know that the Saxon Cropper were
mostly Yellow and Isabel with White Bars, and that the Reversewing was a Magpie marked
variant of that Breed. It was also known as the Kalotten = Helmet Cropper, while in
Bohemia it was known as the Gansel Cropper, which was a reference to the markings of
the Viennese Gansel Tumbler Markings as well as the Viennese Magpie Tumbler.
After 1880 the first serious references to the Breed are made in writings by the
Ornithologist Baldamus, saying that the Saxon Magpie Cropper was possibly ‘made’ from
crossing the Old German Cropper and the Dutch Cropper. In his Book ‘De Kropperrassen’
(Cropper Breeds) from 1929, the Dutch author Spruijt states that not the Dutch Cropper
but the Gent Cropper in Dominican Marking was used in the Cross.
Right: A blue Reversewing Cropper in 1991.
Excellent old cock with 97 points.
Owner: Comb. Droog.
Photo: D.J. Hamer.

In the early years of the 1900's the Saxon


Muffed Magpie Cropper was not so upright in
stance, shorter in neck and with a smaller,
rounder head.

After 1925 there was a dramatic im-


provement in the Breed, the result of
crossing with the English Cropper, which was
larger and more upright in Stance. In the
Netherlands after 1980, the name ‘Saxon
Magpie Feather Foot (Muffed) Cropper’ was
adopted to avoid confusion with the Saxon
Clean-legged Cropper.

Left: A Yellow Reversewing Cropper at the


VDT 2005. Owner: Bernard Rappold.
Photo: Mick Bassett.

Right: A Black Reversewing cropper at the


VDT 2005.
Owner: Bernard Rappold.
Photo: Mick Bassett.
There are several stories about why the
German name ‘Verkehrtflügel Kröpfer’ and
the English name ‘Reversewing Cropper’
were given. Although the most plausible
explanation is the one I read in the book
‘Onze duivenrassen in woord en beeld’ of
1955, by C.A.M. Spruijt, stating that at the
end of the 19th century, when the name
Verkehrtflügel Kröpfer found acceptance,
the Breed had been crossed with a Magpie
colour pigeon that was named ‘Verkehrt-
flügel Farbentaube’.

Left: A Blue Reversewing cropper at the


VDT 2005.
Owner: Bernard Rappold.
Photo: Mick Bassett.

This crossing caused the intense, rich


colours and the ‘Reversewing’ Markings,
which are the Reverse on the Wings to
what is normally expected in a ‘Magpie’
marking, with the wing totally white and a
coloured ‘Heart’ marking across the
shoulders and back; the head white with a
coloured ‘Snip’ or forehead spot.

In 1907 the two fanciers Jahnke in


Leipzig grounded the first Specialist
Club for this Breed, the ‘Reverse-
wing Cropper Club’. A second
specialist club was grounded in 1912
and by 1933 this Breed was being
bred seriously by dedicated Fanciers.
In 1977 in the then DDR (East
Germany) there were 50 active
breeders in this Specialist Club.

The present day concentration of


Reversewing Croppers is now in
Bayern (Bavaria). This State has not
only the most breeders with the
highest number overall of quality
birds, but also the highest entries at
Shows.

Right:
Standard drawing of a black
Reversewing Cropper by Jan de
Jong.
Left: Red Reversewing cropper.
Owner: M.C. Wuyts.
Photo: D.J. Hamer.

Characteristics
With an approximate measurement of 44 cm
from the beak tip to the tip of the tail, the
Reversewing Cropper belongs to the group of
large Cropper Breeds. It is essential now-a-
days for an exhibition specimen to have the
correct height and posture; for this good
strong legs placed at the correct angle are
essential.
A good guide is that 1/3rd of the total body
length should be behind the legs and 2/3rds
before the legs.

Right:
Red Reversewing cropper, old hen, in 1995.
Owner: M.C. Wuyts. Photo: D.J. Hamer.

Below: Another old red hen, in 1994.


Outstanding bird with 96 points.
Owner: M.C. Wuyts. Photo: D.J. Hamer.

To attain these perfect balance proportions, a


bird must have the desired length of neck
and also the correct crop shape when
inflated. This must be pear shape; the widest
part at the top, flowing into a slight but
discernable ‘waist’ at the lowest point of the
inflated crop. From there a few centimetres
of body should be visible before the start of
the strong and long thighs that should be
clearly visible and appear to curve very
slightly forward due to the well developed
muscle.
The correct leg length, placement and strength is essential for the bird to display a well
developed and shapely crop. As with most Cropper Breeds, for them to be displayed at the
best advantage a certain amount of ‘Cage’ training is necessary, so that often simply being
spoken to will stimulate the bird to ‘Show-off’. At rest, few Croppers will be seen to their
best advantage. Thighs, feet and toes are fully covered by feathers.
Right: Red Reversewing Cropper.
Owner: Frank Barrachina (USA).
Photo: D.J. Hamer.

The long vulture (hock) feathers should flow


into the lower leg feathers and muffs without
any large gaps. The full vulture feathers may
give the impression that the height of stance
is not correct; this is something you can
easily rectify. It so happens that some
inexperienced breeders pull some feathers
from the hocks to produce a higher Stance,
but with these pigeons the upper body is
then no longer correct or balanced.
The head and neck should be carried almost
perpendicular, the pear shaped crop carried
high and curving forward, ideally in a line a
little forward of the centre toe feathers. The
back should slope steeply from the shoulders
in a straight line to the tip of the tail, which
should not be too broad.

Left:
Black Reversewing Cropper in 1991.
Owner: M. Michels.
Photo: D.J. Hamer.

The shoulders should not be too broad,


this can cause wing tips that cross badly
(they may touch at the tips or slightly
cross), or dropped (hanging) wings.
A Reversewing Cropper that is somewhat
smaller in shoulders still looks elegant,
even when of appropriate height.

Right: Red Reversewing Cropper,


outstanding bird with 96 points.
Owner: M.C. Wuyts.
Photo: D.J. Hamer.
Colours
The Reversewing Cropper is bred in only the 4 main colours, Black, Red, Yellow and Blue.
For some years Breeders have bred Mealies (Rotfahl) and Lavenders but without official
Standard recognition in Germany. Also Blue Black Chequer, but the Specialised Clubs have
advised against further colours being bred, because of the admixture of other Breeds,
which would be detrimental to the quality of the present day birds. Also maintaining the
existing four colours at today’s excellence is problem enough without polluting the existing
Gene pool with ‘crossed’ birds, which could easily cause a rapid deterioration in Breed
Type, Markings and Colour.
All colours must be rich, deep and with intense sheen; especially with Blacks a pure green
sheen is required all over the black colouring. Unfortunately in Holland more often Blacks
are seen with less intense colour (Charcoal black) and Greyish Backs, which is a fault.
Blues should be a Pale Blue, especially the coloured heart and lower back, however when
this colour is too pale then the sharp defined line between the colour and white markings
may become indistinct.

Left: Aviary with yellow and black


Reversewing Croppers.
Below: Another aviary with red
Reversewing Croppers ones.
Owner: H. Vleeming.
Photo: D.J. Hamer

Left: Black Reversewing Cropper at


the 1997 Avicultura Show in The
Hague. Owner: J. Kramer.
Photo: D.J. Hamer.

It can even reach a point where the


colour on the lower back is replaced
by white, which is incorrect. When the
heart colour is correct it may be that
the back colour is then too dark; in
particular the hen birds have a
tendency to show this. However this
is perfectly normal and hen birds
should not be penalised for this
darker factor as it is sex linked and
using hens that are too pale will only
increase the white lower back in
males!
The colour in the tails rarely gives any problems, with Blues the two outer tail feathers will
show some white on the edges, this again is normal for Blues. Flecking in the tail or flight
feathers is rarely a problem but a minor fault if present.

With Reds an intense, deep and even Red colour is wanted and that is all over! No bluish
sheen should be present; this is a fault. Such birds should also be excluded from the
breeding programme or if used, used with care. If the Red is too pale, then flecking in the
tail feathers may occur. If the Red is too dark, then it is possible that the feathers have
poor structure and become hair like; often then the colour of the upper beak is incorrect
(too dark).

Left:
The Snip of this Reversewing Cropper
is too large.
Very good upper beak.
Photo: D.J. Hamer.

Below: A correct Snip, although the


underline could be more defined.
Many breeders are specialist in
trimming of the Markings.
Owner: Joep Sanders.
Photo: D.J. Hamer.

As opposed to pigeons that


are too dark in colour, there
are those that are too pale in
colour: a pale Brick Red.

The colour of the tail com-


pared to the heart and back
will often be slightly paler. If
there are no other faults, then
this can be tolerated, but such
birds could not achieve the
highest grades.

The same colour variations and rules applies to the Yellow Colour variety. When the yellow
colour is bred too intensive, the heart feathers may become a bit loose. In the worst case
the feathers will split and become hairy. Same as with the problems mentioned above with
the Reds, these birds can still be valuated with 93 points.
Left: Head marking of a Reversewing
Cropper with some remarks. The
Forehead Spot (Snip) should be free
from the eye and is rather large and
irregular. The black feathers between
the eye and the beak (moustache) are
and the under beak is rather dark.
Photo: D.J. Hamer.

Markings
With the Magpie marking the neck,
shoulders, heart, back, breast and tail
are coloured. The white parts of the
belly – from the breast to short before
the thighs, ending in a hooked line at
the lower tail feathers – must be
clearly defined. The heart marking
should not be too small, making the
shoulder look narrow.

The head marking is rather special, being a coloured forehead spot (Snip), divided from the
coloured neck by a 2 cm. wide white band. In the past this snip was as large as to touch
half the eye, but today we wish a smaller snip, only reaching the upper eye cere. At the
Yellows and Reds, some Top birds show a small white demarcation line above the eye and
if this is at both sides of the head, this sure can be called ‘ideal’.
However, if breeders tried to breed for this in the Blacks and Blues they would end up with
pale upper beaks. Thus we are satisfied with the front of the forehead spot just touching
the eyes. There are Blacks and Blues with a white line above the eyes, but these are really
exceptions.

The Specialist Clubs request that tolerance is exhibited when assessing the snip marking.
The markings on this breed are difficult enough; more important is the overall balance of
the bird.

With Blacks and Blues, a too small snip can result in incorrect pigmentation of the upper
beak, (too little pigment) whereas a
bird with a large snip will inevitably
have a correct coloured beak. With
Reds and Yellows the beak should be
pale or flesh coloured; with Blacks and
Blues the upper beak dark in colour,
the lower beak pale. The beak cere is
White. Slight anomalies with beak
colour in the Blacks and Blues should
not prohibit Birds reaching a high
grade. The Reds and Yellows should
have the correct beak colour.

Right: Black Reversewing Cropper


hen, entered at the 1991
Ornithophilia Show by W. Michels.
Photo: D.J. Hamer.
The Eye and Eye Cere
When the snip is too large, the eye can be partially covered; this may result in a broken
coloured (two colour) eye. While this may not be exhibited it may, with care, be useful in
breeding when bred to the correct partner (one with too small a snip). With such mating
good breeding records must be kept.
The eye cere should be fine and pale in colour. Some breeders say the cere colour can be
influenced by feeding, or withholding certain grains (Feeds containing carotene or natural
colour i.e. maize).
With Blacks and Blues a large snip may also affect the cere colour adversely.

The Breed today


The numbers of the Breed and the quality of each colour varies somewhat from year to
year, depending on the number of breeders keeping each colour. On the 40th anniversary
of the German Club the Yellow was the most perfected colour, thus this colour was chosen
as ‘standard ideal’ for type, stance, footings, blowing, colour and marking. All exhibited
birds are compared to this ‘ideal’ breed example. This enables the various Colours to be
correctly assessed according to their particular needs.
In Yellow one finds usually the most high grade birds, but also in the Blacks ‘ideal’ birds are
regularly seen throughout the years, despite the fact of the particular problems as
described before with this colour to get it exactly right. In the Blacks, the front or breast
could often be more stretched.

The Blues are almost on a level with the Black, again despite difficulties particular to this
colour, as they cannot be effectively ‘crossed’ with the other colours (except possibly a
Black) so are more isolated in their breeding. They tend to be somewhat heavier built than
the other colours so Blues tend not always to look so elegant as the other 3 colours. For
these reasons not so many Blues are to be seen on the exhibition bench.
Today the Reds are also on a level with the other colours.

It is possible to see the eye/head markings at 10 to 14 days old but selection at this time is
not practical as the final markings may not be evident before 2-3 years old!

Left: A young Reversewing


Cropper at Staf Mertens’.
Photo: Aviculture Europe.

Breeding
For breeding it is best too cut
the muffs short. A nest bowl
is not suitable; a box is
better, size 8 cm. high x 25 x
25 cm. This can be filled with
nest material (or shavings),
with sacking or other natural
material loosely fixed to the
upper side of the frame, then
make a hollow in it.
As the muffs have been
trimmed the birds will be able
to move about the nest with
no problems; it should be
rare that eggs or young are
tipped out of the nest.
Only healthy birds should be use for breeding; advisably a dropping sample may be sent
for analysis before pairing. Once the second egg is laid no unnecessary disturbance,
although the Reversewing is a very good brooder and parent. Once the young have been
rung then is the time to start handling so they become used to the breeder, and when the
birds have been separated from the parents then cage training ready for exhibition is
advised. Care must also be given at this time that the crop develops correctly.

Many factors go into breeding a good Reversewing Cropper and many novice breeders
simply do not have the patience and give-up after a year or two when the desired results
are not obtained. However when you have bred just one bird that fulfils the Standard Ideal,
then the satisfaction is all the greater!

General Care
A clean pigeon loft is obvious. Breeds with foot feathers (muffs) do need some adaptation
for proper care within the loft and flight. Do not crowd and use the correct perches in the
loft. Damaged foot or vulture feathers need to be removed 7-8 weeks prior to an
exhibition, to show a full muff again. 3-4 days before an exhibition, if needed the muffs
may be washed, the birds penned afterwards in show pens with shavings or sawdust on the
floor. With presentation and correct trimming of the markings a steady hand is required
(and ideally should be learned from an experienced exhibitor). The quality of care and the
training will be clearly demonstrated in the exhibition pen, and reflected in the grading of
the bird, allowing the bird to be shown to its best advantage: Stance, Crop, Performance,
Footwork, Markings and Colour.

Sources:
- 40 Jahre S.V. der Verkehrtflügelkröpfer 1950-1990, by Eduard Weber, SR.
Translated by: Rinus Wuijts, March 2007.
- ‘De Kropperrassen’ 1929, by C.A.M. Spruijt.
- ‘Onze duivenrassen in woord en beeld’ 1955, by C.A.M. Spruijt.
- ‘Alles über Rassetauben’ 2001, by Erich Müller.

For more information please contact the Breeders’ Clubs:


Vereniging van Eksterkropperfokkers
M.C. Wuyts Heesterdijk 8
5711 PW Someren - Nederland
Tel.: 0492-332015

Sonderverein Verkehrtflügelkröpfer (gegr. 1907)


Ludwig Staimer
Arnulfstr. 273/IV
80639 München - Duitsland
Tel.: 0049 (0) 89 / 1 78 49 27

Copyright ©2008 Aviculture-Europe. All rights reserved by VBC

Soon to be published!
A very detailed and richly illustrated book on Pigeon Genetics.
Read all about it in ‘Various’.
STANDARD: REVERSE WING CROPPER (VERKEHRTFLÜGEL KRÖPFER)

Origin: Thuringan and the Saxon Regions.


Overall impression: A large, upright and very imposing Cropper, with full strong muffs.
Head: Plain headed, narrow, medium length, with a somewhat high forehead, the back of skull well
rounded.
Eye: Dark with a pale eye-cere.
Beak: Medium length, strong at the base, pale colour;
For Blacks and Blues, pale under-beak and black/dark upper-beak.
The beak cere well developed but not large or course.
Neck: Long, the longer the better, if in proportion overall.
The Crop appears broadly set, widest across the upper part.
Breast: Not carried forward or curved, with a slight but definite 'Waist' to the Crop below the level of the
wing butts.
Back: Not too broad across the shoulders, the back narrowing and sharply sloping to the tail tip.
Wings: Not too broad, but long, covering the Back well, the primary tips touching or slightly crossing.
Tail: Not too broad, ideally in a sloping, even line with the Back.
Legs: Long but in proportion overall, not broad standing, Thighs with a light forward curve, Vulture (Thigh)
feathers full, muffs long, thick and curving to the sides.
Colours: Black, Blue, Red and Yellow. The Gloss colours rich, intensive and with intense sheen; blues with
an even colour and 'normal' blue tone. The Marking is clean and distinct.
Colours and Markings: The rear of the head, neck, breast as far as 2 cm above the thighs, shoulders
(Back/Shoulder 'Heart'). Back, Tail with Upper and Lower Tail Coverts.
Above the Beak-Cere a Broad 'Snip', ideally around all the base of the beak-cere, without running
into the eye-cere, evenly shaped and ending within 2 cm of the coloured rear of the head.
(Some lee-way is given to the breadth of the Snip as with the 'Ideal'; the colour also tends to run
below the eye and onto the lower beak!)
The Colour to the upper neck/under the throat comes to within 1cm of the under beak and eye in a
curving line to the back of the head.
From above and behind the Shoulder the colour forms a closed curved 'Heart' shape, with the
Coloured feather flowing over onto the white of the wings, making the white to the top part of the
wings appear fairly narrow.
All the rest of the Pigeon is white: the White head marking, white wing shield (partially covered by
the coloured shoulder 'Heart'), primaries, thighs, legs and muffs.
Faults: A plump or small Bird; horizontal posture; too deep (Legs); weak or narrow Crop.
Thick, reddish or uneven coloured (from the feather colour) eye-ceres.
Tail not held in a straight line, (upper tail coverts too full).
Weak, thin thigh and muff feathers; a white 'Bib' (or colour running onto the lower beak, 'Coloured
Bib'); flecks or white feathers in the colour or coloured in the white.
Matt or poor and uneven colour.
Order of importance:
Breed Type and Overall Balance - Figure/Form - Posture - Crop - Muffs and Thigh Feathers - Markings - Colour.
Ring Size: 11 mm

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