All-in-One Micro Shop

Part One: Building the Table Saw

Please don't hurt yourself doing this project. I want everyone to be able
PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL to enjoy this micro-shop, but will not be held responsible for any injury
THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS or death that results from building or using it. Proceed at your own
DRAWING IS THE SOLE PROPERTY OF
risk. If you don't feel comfortable with any part of this project, ask a
more experienced friend for help. BE SAFE!
TOMMY RICH (& ONE MINUTE WORKBENCH).
ANY REPRODUCTION IN PART OR AS A
WHOLE WITHOUT THE WRITTEN PERMISSION
OF TOMMY RICH IS PROHIBITED. Page 1/62
5 4 3 2 1
 STOP!
PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE GUIDE (INCLUDING THE OTHER PARTS) ALL THE WAY THROUGH
BEFORE YOU BEGIN THE PROJECT! ALSO, IF YOU FIND ERRORS, EMAIL ME AND LET ME KNOW!
This design requires specific thicknesses of Baltic Birch plywood. Using material of a different quality or
thickness is NOT recommended.

DO NOT USE THIN VENEERED "CABINET GRADE" PLYWOOD FROM THE BIG BOX STORES. IT LOOKS NICE AND IS VERY FLAT, BUT
IT'S NOT STRONG ENOUGH. IT WILL FLEX AND MAYBE EVEN BREAK!

Materials Required (it might be best to print this list so you can cross
items off as you go):
• (1) 4' x 8' x 1/2" Sheet of Baltic Birch plywood (exact thickness is about .492", approximately 1/2")

• (1) 4' x 8' x 1/4" Sheet of Baltic Birch plywood (exact thickness is about .240", approximately 1/4")

• (1) 5/16" x 36" Plain Steel Rod (NOT Zinc Coated) Home Depot part# 802437

• (1) 5/16" x 36" Threaded Steel Rod (working on part#s...will update)

• (1) 1/4" x 36" Zinc Coated Steel Rod (Zinc preferred, plain okay) Home Depot part # 802297

• (1) 1/2" Condiut Home Depot part # 853428

• (7) 5/16 x 1 & 1/4" Steel Fender Washer

• (12) 5/16-18 t-nuts Home Depot part # 802311

• (6) 5/16-18 x 2.0" (length) Hex Bolts (working on part#s...will update)

• (5) 5/16-18 x 5.0" (length) Hex Bolts (working on part#s...will update)

• (4) 5/16-18 nylon lock nuts Home Depot part # 802622

• (3) Pairs of eye bolts (with nuts) Home Depot part # 816681

• (1) Box of 1/2" #8 Wood Screws Home Depot part # 801802

• (1) Box of 3/4" #8 Wood Screws Home Depot part # 801812

• (1) Box of 1" #8 Wood Screws Home Depot part # 801822

• (1) Box of 1 & 1/2" #8 Wood Screws Home Depot part # 801842

• (1) Small Box of 1" 23 Gauge Pin Nails (any brand should be fine)
Page 2/62
5 4 3 2 1
Materials Required (continued):
• (1) 15 amp (or greater) plug strip

• (2) Packages of cable/cord clips Home Depot part # PPC-1538

• (4) Shallow Plastic Single Gang Box Home Depot part # B108R-UPC

• (4) Leviton Light Switches Home Depot part # R72-05601-2WS

• (4) Single gang faceplate Home Depot part # R52-80401-00W

• (1) Large diameter (probably 3.5-4") hose clamp

• (1) Medium diameter (probably 2") hose clamp

• (1) Starrett Steel Tape Measure with Adhesive Back - I used Model # SM66W 63169

• (4) 10" Drawer Slides. I used Friho brand from Amazon.

• (4) Large Rubber Feet (with good grip) - I used Ulifestar Transparent Round
Furniture Pads/Heavy Duty Non-slip 30x10mm from Amazon

• (2) Small, but Strong springs - I used Home Depot part # 16071 and made my own custom lengths.

• (1) Assorted pack of springs Home Depot model # 13554.

• (3) 608 skate style bearings - I used VXB 608Z Skate Bearings from Amazon

• Some electrical tape & wire nuts

• Some UHMW Tape - I used TapeCase 423-5 UHMW from Amazon

• 23 Gauge Pin Nails (a small box will be more than enough)

• Some scrap metal, ideally about .005" thinner than the kerf of the saw blade you're going to use. I
used an old saw blade, and it worked fine.

• Wood Glue, Epoxy (JB Weld Original...dont' use anything else! I mean it! Watch my video on building a
disc sander; I did lots of tests, even the expensive marine grade stuff, and everything failed except
for JB Weld Original.)

• A couple small pieces of foam you could probably salvage this something around the house.

• Some type of finish (lacquer/poly/varnish etc.)

Page 3/62
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Tools Required (Or at least strongly suggested. You could get by with some substitutions).

• Circular Saw
• 23 Gauge Pin Nailer & Compressor (unless your Pin Nailer is electric)(not mandatory, but highly
recommended)
• Drill with the following bits: 7/64" brad point, 1/8" brad point, 9/64" regular point (for
pilot holes in saw bases),1/4" brad point, 5/16", 5/16"-18 tapping, 3/8" brad point, 1/4" spade
(long), 3/4" spade, 7/8" spade, 1" spade, 1/4" router bit, 1/2" forstner, 7/8" forstner, 1"
forstner
• Caliper (Highly Recommended)
• Wire Strippers
• Sander/Sandpaper
• Chisel & Flat File
• 9" Pressure Sensitive Adhesive Sanding Discs (available at Harbor Freight)
• Hacksaw (an Angle Grinder will work for some stuff, but a hacksaw will come in very handy)
• Coping Saw (you can get by without this, but it sure made my life easier)
List of tools this design is based on (all from Harbor Freight):

• (1) 12-amp Chicago Electric Circular Saw

• (2) Chicago Electric 1/2" Drills
• (1) Drill Master Trim Router
• (1) Chicago Electric Jigsaw

This guide is written assuming that you don't have a table saw. Because of that, you're first
going to work on cutting the pieces needed to build the table saw, table saw fence, and miter
gauge.

After the table saw is built,we'll come back and cut the other pieces needed to make the rest
of the Micro Shop.

Note: If you already have a table saw, you can just cut out all the pieces in this guide, and then
start your assembly.

CAUTION - PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Although this is designed to be an easy project, with no complicated joinery,
this project is NOT for beginners. You MUST have a good understanding of
using a table saw in order to build one. There will be parts of this build
that will require you to use the table saw while it is partially built. Again
you MUST be proficient in table saw use to use a saw in this state. Do NOT
attempt any aspect of this project if you feel uncomfortable. You assume all
liability for injury or death by proceeding with this project! Page 4/62
5 4 3 2 1
Overview
The process is pretty simple. Basically, you're going to:
1. Cut a bunch of rectangular pieces out of sheets of plywood.
2. Make some detail cuts into some of those rectangles.
3. Glue, nail, and screw those pieces together.
Material is color coded by thickness to help you remember what thickness
of material any given piece should be.

• Pieces shown in natural wood color are 1/2" (12mm) plywood.

• Pieces shown in blue-green are 1/4" (6mm) plywood.

1/2" (12mm) 1/4" (6mm)

Page 5/62
5 4 3 2 1
Overview
Parts overview. To make cutting all of these parts more digestable, you're going
to cut things down into smaller sections. See next page.

Various Knobs Disc Sander Components

Jigsaw Table
Components Drill Press
Components

Disc Sander
Components Miter Gauge
Components

Electrical Mounting
Components
Miter Gauge
Components

Table Saw Fence

Components
Support Arm
Components

Main Body
Main Body Components
Components

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Primary Cuts
48"
Start by cutting the 1/2" (12mm) plywood into
smaller sections as shown here.
Sec 1 48 x 29
Sec 2 48 x 29
Sec 3 48 x 37 & 3/4 (approx - see notes)
3
Be sure to MARK ALL PIECES WITH THEIR SECTION Sec 3 37 4 "
NUBMER as you make these cuts! (approx.)

Note: Cut the sections in order; first Sec 1, then

Sec 2, and finally Sec 3. Make sure your cuts are 1
PERFECTLY SQUARE! Also, make sure sections 1 is 8"
EXACTLY 29".
This diagram accounts for 1/8" blade thickness. Your
blade may be slightly different which will result in 96"
a slightly different dimension for Sec 3 - that will Sec 2
be okay (there is a little buffer built into Sec 3). 29"

1
8"
A Special Note about ALL dimensions shown in this
guide:
• The dimensions shown represent the size your Sec 1 29"
pieces should be AFTER you make your cuts.
• Just make sure you account for blade
thickness, and mind what side of the line
you're cutting on so that the resulting piece
will be the dimensions shown.
• All dimensions are shown in inches.
• The parts you see on these sheets are to
scale. This means they all actually fit on the
sheet as shown, and you should cut them out of
the sheet as they appear in this guide. Doing
so will make sure you get all the pieces you
need without having to buy more material. Page 7/62
5 4 3 2 1
Primary Cuts

Now that you've cut the 1/2" sheet into

smaller sections, the pieces you're going to
cut from each section will look like this.
Note: You can see that there 3
Section 3 36 4 "
is a little buffer built into
sections 2 & 3, but notice that
there is no buffer in section 1.
Section 1 is exactly 29", and
two of the three components that
come from section one are exactly
29".

Section 2 29"

Section 1 29"

48"
Page 8/62
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Primary Cuts
This bubble shows how you should start
cutting this section.
Cut the components from Section 1 as shown
here.
14" 14"
(1) A 29 x 14
(1) B 29 x 14
(1) C 26 & 1/2 x 19

Be sure to MARK ALL PIECES WITH THEIR LETTER Area needed

as you make these cuts! for part C

Note: Remember, make sure your cuts are PERFECTlY

SQUARE! I used a homemade track saw for this, and I Part B Part A
recommend you do something similar.
Don't worry about the internal shapes you see right
now. We'll cover those in a little bit.
Notice that you should cut the 14" width of parts A
& B as your 1st and 2nd cuts from this section. This First Cut
is so you don't cut through the space needed for
parts A & B. (In other words, if you were to cut the Second Cut
26 & 1/2" dimension as your first cut, it would ruin
parts A & B).

48"
Special note: Save ALL of your scraps! They
will come in handy down the road!
C B A

1
26 2 " 29"

19" 14" 14" Page 9/62

5 4 3 2 1
Primary Cuts
This bubble shows how you should start
Cut the components from Section 2 as shown cutting this section.
here.
14" 14"
(1) D 20 x 14
(2) E 20 x 14

Be sure to MARK ALL PIECES WITH THEIR LETTER

as you make these cuts! Area needed
for fence &
Note: Remember, make sure your cuts are PERFECTlY miter gauge
SQUARE! parts.

Notice that you should cut the 14" width of parts D Part E Part D
& E as your 1st and 2nd cuts from this section. This
is so you don't cut through the area needed for the
fence & miter guage components.

First Cut

Second Cut

48"

E D

29"
20"

Fence & Miter Gauge parts. We're not ready to cut

these yet. Label this piece as "fence & miter", and 14" 14"
then save it for later. Page 10/62
5 4 3 2 1
Primary Cuts
We still have to cut the parts from Section 3
(shown here), but we're not ready for these
yet. Make sure this section is labeled
"Section 3", and save it for later.
Note: As a reminder, we're saving these because we're
going to build a table saw. These will all be much
easier to cut once you've built the table saw.
If you already have a table saw, you can skip ahead
and cut these now.
48"

3
36 4 "

Page 11/62
5 4 3 2 1
Primary Cuts 3
18 16 "
Cut the following components from the 1/4"
sheet as shown here.
(1) F 30 x 20
(2) G 30 x 20 1
(2) H 26 & 1/2 x 18 & 3/16 26 2 "

Be sure to MARK ALL PIECES WITH THEIR LETTER

as you make these cuts!
Note: Notice that there are smaller components that
come from this sheet. We'll get to these later, and H
you don't really need to label the scrap - you'll have
plenty left over for those.

G F

30"
30"

20" 20"

Page 12/62
5 4 3 2 1
Secondary Cuts
Now that you have all of the main components
for the table saw (parts A-H) cut to size,
you're going to cut the details into each 29"
part.
3
Start with part A, as shown here. 44"
1
14"
Note: There is only (1) of part A, but
(2) views of it are shown here. That's A
just to make the dimensions a little
easier to read. Showing multiple views
of one part will be a common theme
throughout this guide. 14"

Notice that the large window has rounded Round Corners

corners, but the smaller windows have
square corners. I used a 1" spade bit to
create the rounded shapes, and a jigsaw
to cut the windows. 1
14"
I would recommend drawing out all these
shapes in pencil first, then carefully 3
44"
compare it to this page with a measuring
tape before making your cuts. The same
goes for all of the parts on the following
pages as well.
Remember to save all of your
scraps, especially the large A 1
42"
"windows". Hang onto those
windows for as long as you
can...you might need them 5"
for the disc sander portion of 1"
this project. In fact, label
them as "disc sander".
1
42"

3
24"
Page 13/62
5 4 3 2 1
Secondary Cuts
29"
Cut part B, as shown here. 1 3
64" 11 4 "
Note: There is only (1) of part B. 1
14"
Notice the view that magnifies the corner
of part B. Magnified views will be a common
theme throughout this guide.
B
This symbol ( ) means "diameter". If
you're using a router circle cutting jig 14"
like I did in the video, your measurement Round 5
R4 8 "
will be half of what is shown here. For
example, if it says 9 & 1/4", you'll need
to use 4 & 5/8" radius.

1
14"

1
17 4 "
3
8"

B 1
94"
4"
3 11"
1 8"
2"

5"

6"
5"

Page 14/62
5 4 3 2 1
Secondary Cuts 9
2 16 " Note: Whever you see a
diameter symbol next to
Cut part C, as shown here. a hole size, like the hole
shown just to the left of this
note, that just means to
Note: There is only (1) of part C. drill a hole that size all the
2" way through the part at
1 that location.
26 2 "
To get the most accurate
5 hole location, use the
16 " dimensions to mark the
center of the hole, and then
1 use a pick to poke a small
42" C 1
78" starter hole for your drill bits.
Brad point bits will fit into
your pick hole nicely and
create a very accurately
19" located hole.
1
18"
3
4"
3 7
54" 6" 28"

2"
C
11" 4" 1
10 4 "
1
1 68"
12 2 "
1
92"

10"

Page 15/62
5 4 3 2 1
Secondary Cuts
Cut part D, as shown here.
Note: There is only (1) of part D.

20"
1
14"

D Round

1
84"

1 1
22" 22"

14"

3
54"

3 3
4" 3 3 4"
4" 4"
1 1
14" 14"

Page 16/62
5 4 3 2 1
Secondary Cuts
Cut part E, as shown here. 6"

Note: There is only (1) of part E. 3

44"
12"

1
14"
1"

2"
5" 6"
2"

10" 3
24"

1"
Round
3
78"
3
48"
E

3
8"
3
24" 3 29
8" 32 "

Page 17/62
5 4 3 2 1
Secondary Cuts
Cut part F, as shown here.
Note: There is only (1) of part F.
30"
10"
5 9
5" 6" 16 " 2 16 "

1
22"
F
5
78"

20"

1
18"

10"

1
64"

1 1
44" 22"
1
14 2 " 4" Page 18/62
5 4 3 2 1
Secondary Cuts
Cut part H, as shown here.
Note: There is only (1) of part H. Yes, you're
skipping G for now. We'll add any shapes needed after
assembly.
3
14"
10"

1
32"

6"
1
12"
3
84"

3
24"

2"

11
8 16 "
2"

H 3"

1
12"

1
32"
Page 19/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly A note about these Joints:
• Use a solid layer of glue
Begin assembly as shown here. everywhere you have wood to wood
contact.
Note: You might want to do a dry assembly just using
masking tape to hold the sides together so you can • Align the edges as perfectly as you
compare it to the images in the guide. Check out the can. The better you do, the better
next page for a closer look. your results will be.
• Use pin nails to help keep the
edges of your pieces aligned with
one another. Use as many as
necessary (it usually doesn't take
that many, but adding more won't
hurt.
• Use clamps to make sure you've got
a solid connection.
• Using screws will allow you to work
faster - you wont' have to wait for
glue to dry to remove clamps.
• The shopping list includes several
size of screws. Just use the most
appropriate size of screw for any
given area. For example, when
screwing (2) 1/2" pieces together,
use a 1" screw.
• Follow manufacturer's recommended
proceedures (including clamping
times) to ensure you get a good
solid connection.
• If you use screws, make sure you
use pilot holes and countersinks.
• Be sure to clean up squeeze out
before it hardens!

Page 20/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly
Align the edges as shown in the magnified
views. Make sure tops are flush.
Note: A & B are "inside" D & E. Again, look at the
small holes and rectangular windows to ensure all
match the image shown on this page.
Make sure all edges (especially the tops, and bottoms)
are aligned as PERFECTLY as you can!
For example, the top of part D should be peferfectly
flush with the top of part A.

E
B

D
A

Page 21/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly
Add part F as shown.

D
A

Page 22/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly Right edge should
be flush with body
Add part C as shown.
Note: The "right" edge of part C should be flush with
the main body. The back edge of part C should be 1/2"
from the main body, and the front edge of part C
should be 1/2" from the main body. Align this as
PERFECTLY as you can!

1/2"

1
2"

D
1 A
2"

Page 23/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly Right edge should
be flush with body
Temporarily add part H as shown.

• Once aligned as shown, secure in place with

a few pin nails (not too many), and then add 13/16"
screws. Do NOT use glue!(See build video
part 1, @ 12 minutes and 15 seconds.)
Note: The "back" and "sides" of part H should be flush
with part C, while the "front" should have a 13/16" gap.
Again, align this as perfectly as you can!
H
Back and left side should
be flush with part C.

13 A
16 "

Page 24/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly
Add the circular saw to part H.

• Study the positions on this page

• Flip the unit over.
• Study the images again to make sure you
understand how the saw should be positioned. front
Note: See next page for more details.

front front
The circular
saw should be
A Special Note about Adding Tools: If you're using "aiming" this
tools other than those specified in the front of direction.
this guide, now would be a good time to make sure
they all fit. From left to right (while looking at
the image to the right), you'll have: a circular
saw, a trim router, a drill (laying on its side),
H
and a jigsaw. Set the circular saw, router, and
jigsaw in the cutouts provided for them, and make
sure they fit. If they don't, resize the cutouts
as necessary before you move forward with this
guide. Once everything is setup, set your circular
saw at its maximum angle and make sure it doesn't
hit the router. Lastly, make sure the drill fits
between the router and jigsaw, and ensure the
chuck lines up with the center of the large
circular cutout for the disc sander. If it doesn't The cord should
make adjustments to the router and jigsaw cutouts be back here.
so that it does. Page 25/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly
Add the circular saw to part H (continued). front

• Set the saw in the opening, in the position

described.
• Make sure the saw is unplugged.
• Make sure the blade is fully retracted so
that the saw's "shoe" (base) sits flat on
part H. You will need to clamp the safety
guard out of the way, and potentially
remove the blade.
• Leave a little room all the way around the
saw's shoe.
• With a pen or pencil, trace all of the
shapes all around the saw's base, inside
and out.
• Remove the saw.
• Remove part H (which should only be
temporarily attached at this point).
Note: See next page for more details.

front
The circular
saw should be
"aiming" this
direction.

The cord should

be back here. Page 26/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly
front
Add the circular saw to part H (continued).

• With part H removed, set the saw back on

part H on top of your trace.
• Using a 1/8" bit, drill through the metal
base in one of the rear corners of the
saw, and through part H. You'll need to
have part H supspended on saw horses or
on scraps to allow the bit to travel
through part H without going into your
table/workbench/etc.
• Remove the saw from part H.
• Drill out the metal again using a larger
bit so a #8 screw can fit through - do
NOT drill out the wood of part H. Leave
it at 1/8".
• Use a bit that provides a good snug fit
for the #8 screw. It should have to be
force-threaded through the metal. The circular
• Once you've got the hole just right, add saw should be
the saw back to part H, and secure it to "aiming" this
direction.
part H with the screw using a screwdriver front
- not a drill.
• Do NOT overtighten as this could tear the
wood and ruin the hole.
• The saw should still be aligned with the
trace you drew.
• The screw will be protruding through part H
H. Use a hacksaw blade to trim it down
flush with the table top, and file it
smooth.
Note: See next page for more details.

The cord should

be back here. Page 27/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly
front
Add the circular saw to part H (continued).

• With only (1) screw in (1) corner, the

saw will still be able to pivot at that
point.
• Use a large framing square to square the
saw with part H (see image below).
• When you're sure it's square, add a screw
in a corner opposite of the first screw
you added.
• Check it for square again.
• If it's square, add (2) more screws.
• If it's not, repeat the steps as
necessary.
• When you can tell that the saw is firmly
secured to part H, remove the screws and
the saw.
• Repeat the steps on page 24 to add part H
to the assembly, but this time, use glue The circular
and 1/2" screws to permanently attach it. saw should be
"aiming" this
direction.
Note: See next page for more details. front

The cord should

be back here. Page 28/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly
Add the circular saw to part H (continued).

• Examine your trace (it will look

something like the image on this page to
the bottom left).
• Using a different colored ink, draw a
rough outline of what your throat plate
should look like (depicted by dashed
lines on the image to the bottom right).
Note: See next page for more details.

Original Trace Rough Sketch of Throat Plate

This line should be

perfectly centered
between these
narrow lines on
this side of your
trace.

Page 29/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly
Add the circular saw to part H (continued).
Note: Your build won't have a throat or throat plate yet.
I'm just showing this image so you can see what the end
result should look like, and to help you envision the
steps you'll need to take in order to get there.

• The goal here is to eventually attach the saw

with screws that go through the wooden table
top, down into the metal of the saw's shoe.
• We also need screws that go down through the
wooden throat plate (that we're going to make)
into the metal of the saw's shoe.
• Have a look at the images.
• The screws are going through countersink holes
in the wood, and are "force-threaded" into the
metal of the saw's shoe.
• Notice that some screws are going through the
table into the shoe, some are going through
the throat plate into the shoe, and yet even
others are going through both the table and
the throat plate (at the same time) into the
shoe.
• Since the sketch you drew is on the under side
of the table, and this image is of the top
side of the table, it is a reverse of your
sketch.
• That means the jog at the bottom is on the
opposite side.
• It also means that the very narrow side (where
the screws split between the table top and the
throat plate) is on the right in your sketch,
and on the left in these images.
• If you're using the saw specified in the front
of this guide, you'll likely need the same
type of jog at the bottom.
Note: See next page for more details. Page 30/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly
Add the circular saw to part H (continued).
Let's look at these just a little longer.

• Notice that with the plate removed, the

saw is still securely held in place.
• That's because there are (4) screws that
still go through the table top into the
saw's shoe.
• And notice that there are (4) screws that
go through the throat plate to hold it in
place.
• (2) of those are on the left, and they
split the difference between the table
top and the throat plate.
• You may think that (4) screws for the
throat plate is overkill, but on my
build, I found (4) screws necessary to
keep all the edges flat and flush with
the rest of the table top.
Note: See next page for more details.

Page 31/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly
Add the circular saw to part H (continued).

• Have another look at your sketch.

• Draw an "S" in (4) locations where you
want a screw that holds the saw in place.
• Draw a "T" in (4) locations where you
want a screw that holds the throat plate
in place.
• Make your "S" and "T" marks about the
size of screw-head.
Note: See next page for more details.
Original Trace Rough Sketch of Throat Plate

S S
T
T This line should be
perfectly centered
between these
narrow lines on
this side of your
trace.

S T S
Page 32/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly

Add the circular saw to part H (continued).

• Examine your saw's shoe, and taking into

account the curves and other attributes
of the shoe, make sure your marks will
work.
• If something looks like it won't work,
find a new spot for it.
• Once you've got your marks just right...
• Add your saw back in loosley, and (on
it's shoe) make marks where the "S"s are
located.
• Secure the saw with the original (4)
screws. This maintains the original
alignment you achieved with the large
framing square earlier.
• Use a 1/8" drill bit to drill through the
metal (and part H) at the (4) "S"
locations.
• Flip the unit over and find those (4)
locations.
• Drill them out with a slightly larger
drill bit, countersink the wood, and add
screws.
• If the screws won't thread into the
metal, try drilling them out with a
slightly larger drill bit than the
previous one you used. (Move up in size
only 1/64" at a time...try your best not
over-size the hole. If you do, you'll
have to get bigger screws.)
Note: The image to the right shows the throat plate,
which your build won't have just yet. It's just
there for reference. See next page for more details.

Page 33/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly
Add the circular saw to part H (continued). Now
it's time to make the throat cut-out.

Note: If you're intimidated by this step, you can

skip it for now and just plunge your blade right
through the top.
The saw will work this way, but you won't be able
to cut angles. You can always come back and do this
when you've had more time to wrap your head around
it. This project doesn't require any angled cuts.

If you're ready now, follow the steps below!

• Now you have (8) screws holding the saw

in place but you really only need the (4)
that you just added from the top side. S S
• You can leave the (4) original (trimmed
and filed) screws (that came up through T
the bottom) for extra security, if you T This line should be
like. perfectly centered
• When you're ready, plunge the blade between these
through the top (be VERY CAREFUL - watch narrow lines on
videos on how to do this safely), then this side of your
remove all screws and the saw. trace.
• Mark all the material you're going to
remove by coloring it in - make sure it's
correct before you move on! Blade Slot
• Cut out the throat opening by removing
the area you just colored in.
• The blade slot will let you get started
making the cut.
• You'll need a small sharp hand saw. I
used the $7 flush cut saw from Harbor T
Freight and it worked wonderfully.
• Take your time, follow your lines, and
make your cuts as straight as you can.
S T S
Note: See next page for more details. Page 34/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly
Add the circular saw to part H (continued). Now
you can make and add a throat plate.
Note: Again, your build won't have a throat or
throat plate yet. These images are still for
reference.

• If your cuts are not as straight as you'd

like, you can work to straighten them out
with sandpaper, and if necessary a hand
file.
• Add a scrap of 1/4" ply over the opening,
and trace it from the other side. Setting
some weight on it, and tracing it from
below is one option. Another is to set
the scrap on a surface, then set the unit
upside down on top of the scrap.
• Once you have your trace, cut out the
throat plate (probably still by hand at
this point).
• Your old "T" marks will be gone, but by
now, you should have a pretty good idea
where the screws will go.
• Add the saw back in, secure it in place
with it's screws (all 8 if you like).
• Drop the throat plate into the throat.
• Add screws just like you did to secure
the saw in place.
• The only difference will be some of the
screws will split the line between the
table top and the throat plate. Do these
(2) AFTER you've installed the other (2).
• Plunge your blade through the throat
plate.

Page 35/62
5 4 3 2 1
Table Saw Assembly
You have a temporary table saw!
Note: Don't add part G yet - you need the bottom to
be open for a while still.
With the circular saw in place, you can now use the
unit as a table saw. You will need a temporary
fence. I just used one of my scraps and some f-
clamps as a fence.
When setting up your temporary fence to make a cut,
measure from both ends of the blade, like I do in
the video - this is more accurate than measuring
from one end alone.
BE CAREFUL!
There are no anti-kickback measures in place! Use
safe techniques for ensuring you don't encounter
kickback. If you don't know those techniques, I
recommend watching John Heisz's series of videos
about safely using his old school table saw, which
doesn't have a riving knife or board splitter.
AS A REMINDER, THIS IS A HOME-MADE TOOL, AND YOU
ASSUME ALL LIABILITY FOR ANY INJURY OR DEATH THAT
OCCURS FROM BUILDING OR USING IT! PROCEED AT YOUR
OWN RISK!

Your build may look like this

or maybe slightly different
if you already added the
throat & throat plate.

Page 36/62
5 4 3 2 1
Miter Gauge Components 48"
Cut the 1/2" miter gauge components from the
Section 2 scrap and add the holes as shown
here.
(1) I 19 x 1 & 1/2
(1) J 26 & 1/2 x 2 29"
(1) K 8 x 2
(1) L 8 x 3

Be sure to MARK ALL PIECES WITH THEIR LETTER

as you make these cuts!
Also mark the remaing scrap. You'll need it
later for the fence. 1
12"
1
Note: Cut these to length by hand. They don't have 12" 2"
to be perfect, just so long as they're close. Also
don't worry about any round edges you see just yet.
L
Center 3
8 " THRU
8" K
J
7 I
8 " 1/8"
Above is engineer speak,
L this is what it means: 19"
3"
Drill a 7/8" hole about Center
1/8" deep. Then drill a 3/8" 1
26 2 "
hole the rest of the way through

5
16 " J

Don't worry about rounding

the edges yet. We'll do that
once the disc sander is built. 2"
Page 37/62
5 4 3 2 1
Miter Gauge Components
Cut the 1/4" miter gauge components as shown.
Don't worry about the hole in part M yet,
you'll see that one again in a few pages.
(1) M 26 & 1/2 x 2
(1) N 18 & 3/16 x 1 & 1/2

Be sure to MARK ALL PIECES WITH THEIR LETTER

as you make these cuts!
Note: You can use the table saw with the clamping
edge guide for the widths, and then cut the length
by hand. The widths are critical! The lenghts on the
other hand don't need to be perfect - cutting the 1
12"
length by hand is fine.

N
3
M
18 16 "
1
26 2 "

2" Page 38/62

5 4 3 2 1
Miter Gauge Components
Cut the parts for (1) knob as shown.
Note: You can cut these parts by hand from 1/2"
scraps. They don't need to be perfect. Don't worry
about rounding the corners just yet.
Again, you can use the table saw for cutting to
width, and then cut the length by hand.

Right in the center, drill a 5/16" hole

all the way through, then drill a 1/2"
counterbore about 5/16" deep.

Drill a 1/4" hole in the center

then tap it with a 5/16-18 tap.

1
14"

1
14"

Page 39/62
5 4 3 2 1
Miter Gauge Components
Assemble the knob as shown.
Note: Allow the glue to dry before using. You may
have to customize the length of the bolt, starting
with a 2" long (or longer) bolt. See video if you
need more help visualizing this step.

5/16-18 x 2 & 3/8" long

Insert bolt here

and hammer
into place.

Add glue here

and thread onto
bolt. Tighten, but
don't over-tighten.

5/16 Fender Washer

Page 40/62
5 4 3 2 1
Miter Gauge Components
Assemble the miter gauge components as shown
here. Glue parts K & L as shown, and glue
parts M & J as shown. After parts M & J are
glued, you can drill a 3/8" hole it part M,
using the hole in part J as a guide.
Knob
Add the t-nut & knob. You've got a miter
gauge!
Note: When aligning J with M, make sure the
7/8" counterbore hole in part J is facing
K
down. This will ensure that it can accept the
flanges of the t-nut.
L

t-nut Page 41/62

5 4 3 2 1
Miter Gauge Components
Add parts N & I to the assembly as shown. Use
a single sheet of paper as a shim against the
miter gauge to create a small amount of
clearance.

• Glue parts N & I to each other

• Set the miter gauge in place.
• Add a single sheet of paper as a shim up
against the side of the miter gauge.
• Set the N & I assembly in place, against
the paper shim.
• Attach the N & I assembly to the main
cabinet with 23 gauge pin nails or screws.
• Do NOT glue them to the main cabinet!
Note: Notice that parts N & I line up with the rest of
the top components. Watch the video if you need help
visualizing the paper shim, or any other part of this
step.
Remember don't glue this to the unit! Use small nails
for now (23 gauge pin nails are preferred).

I
N
I

Page 42/62
5 4 3 2 1
Miter Gauge Components
You can continue to use a clamping edge guide
for cutting things to width. Using the miter
gauge, you can now also cut things to length.
Note: Make sure you carefully align your miter gauge
at 90 degrees so you get nice square cross-cuts
(cutting thing to length). This will be important for
the upcoming parts you'll be cutting.

Page 43/62
5 4 3 2 1
Fence Components 48"

Cut the fence components from the Section 2

scrap as shown here.
(2) O 20 & 1/2 x 2 & 1/2
(1) P 20 & 1/2 x 1 & 1/2
(1) Q 20 & 3/8 x 1 & 1/2 29"
(2) R 2 & 1/2 x 2 & 1/2
(1) S 2 & 1/2 x 2 & 1/2
(3) T 1 & 1/2 x 1 & 1/2

Be sure to MARK ALL PIECES WITH THEIR LETTER

as you make these cuts!
Note: Make sure your cuts are PERFECTlY SQUARE! Now 1 1
22" 12"
that you have a miter guage, it should be much
easier ;-)
You may notice that some of the fence components
that were shown in the overview are missing from
this page. Don't worry, those will come back into
play in a few pages.

O 3
20 8 "
1
20 2 "
1 O
20 2 "
P
Q

1
22" R S
R T 1
12"
1
1 12"
22"
Page 44/62
5 4 3 2 1
Fence Components
Cut the secondary shapes in the fence
components as shown.
Note: There are (2) of part O.
O
1
12"

1
Cut a small notch at one end of the O parts, as shown here. 8"

7
5 8"
3 3
16 " 8" 8"

Center 7 Center
1
1
22" 1" 8" 12"
T
R
1
12"
Center
1 1
22" 22"

S
1
22"
Page 45/62
5 4 3 2 1
Fence Components
Begin assembling the fence as shown here P
(continued on next page).
Note: Align your edges as perfectly as you can. The O
better you do, the better results you'll get.
One "O" part has been made transparent "non-notched
so you can see inside. portion"

Notice the part T that goes at this "non-notched"

end is flush with the other components.
Q

Notice the notches in the O parts are at the "bottom",

and are flush with part Q.

T Notice also that the non-notched portions of the O

parts are flush with the end of part P.
T
The part T located at this "notched" end of the
assembly is inset about 1/2 - 3/4".
T
Also notice that the hole in part T is closer to the
bottom of the assembly than the top in every
instance of part T.

Page 46/62
5 4 3 2 1
Fence Components
Continue assembling the fence by adding part
R to the non-notched end of the fence as
shown here (continued on next page).
Note: Align your edges as perfectly as you can.

Page 47/62
5 4 3 2 1
Fence Components Make these parts as shown. Note Fence T1-4
end is made from 1/4", while Fence T end is
Make the floating endcap as shown here. made from 1/2":
You'll need to make a few small parts as
shown to the right. Use scraps for these.
Note: Notice the holes are closer to the bottom of
Fence T 1-4 end
the assembly than the top.
Make sure the face of part R.1 is flush with the 1"
face of parts Fence T 1-4 end & Fence T end.
Don't worry about rounding the corners yet. 4"

Fence T end
R 1"

4"
S

Fence T 1-4 end

Fence T end

Page 48/62
5 4 3 2 1
Fence Components
Make these parts as shown. Note Fence T1-4 is
Add T-Square portion of the fence as shown. made from 1/4", while Fence T is made from
Again, use scraps to make the parts shown to 1/2":
the right. Use glue and (4) screws to attach
the "T".
Note: Make sure this is perfectly square! The better
you do, the better results you'll get. Don't be Fence T 1-4
afraid to take a long time doing this part, and make
sure it's as perfect as you can possible manage.
2"

8"

Fence T

2"
R
O Fence T 1-4
8"

Fence T

Page 49/62
5 4 3 2 1
Fence Components
Add a 5/16-18 threaded rod to the floating
endcap with a couple of nylon lock nuts. Make
sure the nuts are nice and tight and really
clamp the endcap.
Add nylon locknut here
Then add a compression spring to the rod and
insert it into the notched end of the fence.

Add a Fender Washer to the rod at the non-

notched end of the fence.
Note: An assorted pack of springs is the easiest way
to find a good fit here.
Add nylon locknut here.
You'll need to cut the rod to length, but wait
until you add the knob. This will ensure you
leave enough threads for good functioning of Add a compression spring to the
the fence. threaded rod.

Fender Washer

Page 50/62
5 4 3 2 1
Fence Components
Make the knob as shown here. Again, this is a Fence Knob Bottom
great place to make use of some of the
smaller scraps you've accumulated.
Note: Don't worry about rounding corners yet. You'll 1
14"
then add this knob to the fence - see next page.

1
14"
First, drill a 7/8" hole about 1/16" deep

Then Drill a 5/16 hole all the way through

Fence Knob Top

Drill a 5/16 hole all the way through

1
14"

2"

Add a 5/16-18 T-Nut

Glue here.
Page 51/62
5 4 3 2 1
Fence Components
Add low friction tape to the fence as shown.

• Turn the fence upside down.

• Add the (3) pieces of low friction tape
where shown.
• You should only need these (3) pieces,
but you can experiment with the tape to
get the best results for your build.
• Trim any tape overhangs with a razor.
Note: Trimming the tape overhangs keeps them from
creating friction.

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ed
o this
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fa re. dt
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tap
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Ad

Page 52/62
5 4 3 2 1
Fence Components Draw a small line
just inside this face.
Add the fence to the assembly, use a measuring This will be used as
a distance indicator.
device to set the fence at 6" from the blade,
and make a test cut. Use a caliper
(preferably), or some other means by which to
get a good exact reading.

Repeat this process as many time as necessary

(and making adjustments as necessary) until
you get a perfect 6" reading. With the fence
still locked in that perfect spot, draw a
small line on the "T" portion of the fence.

Slide your adhesive measuring tape into place.

Line up the 6" mark of the tape as perfectly
with your line as you can, and stick it in
place.

Now do a couple of test cuts just to make sure

everything is correct.
Note: If you need help visualizing this, watch that
part of the video again.
Don't use the beginning portion of your adhesive
measuring tape - use the end, say starting at 36";
meaning 36" will be used as your "zero". This is
because you're going to dispose of this later on
before you apply finish. Once you dispose of this
temporary piece, you'll come back and use the
actual "zero" of the adhesive tape.

Page 53/62
5 4 3 2 1
Board Splitter 5
16 " (Don't drill just yet.)
Using 1/2" scraps, make the board splitter Splitter 1
components and assemble as shown.
Note: Don't drill the 5/16" holes just yet. See the
following pages.
1
22"

6"

Splitter 2

Splitter 1 1
12"

1
22"

Center

Splitter 2

Page 54/62
5 4 3 2 1
Board Splitter
Use the template on this page to make the
metal portion of the board splitter. For this,
you'll need a hacksaw, flat file, and a scrap
of metal that's the same thickness as your saw
blade; I just used an old saw blade. Don't use
a blade that has "vents" - you want this piece
to be nice and solid.
Note: If you need help visualizing this, watch this
section of the video again.
This template is just a guide. For the best fitment,
make sure to customize the length to fit your
particular saw's location.

Make sure this template is printed at a 1:1 scale. You

can verify this by measuring it to see if it matches
the dimension printed to the left.

1
44"

Don't worry if you don't cut it exactly as shown. Mine

came out looking more like an axe blade, and it
works fine ;-) File this front edge to have a
knife-bevel. It shouldn't be sharp
enough that it can cut you. It
should just taper down a bit so
it's thinner than the rest of the
thickness of the piece.
Page 55/62
5 4 3 2 1
Board Splitter
Make sure the saw is UNPLUGGED!

Clamp a straight edge to the blade and draw a

fine pencil line all the way to the back of
the saw. Then clamp it to the other side, and
draw another one.

Make sure your straight edge is hitting teeth

at both the front & back of the blade so that
your lines are straight.
Note: If you need help visualizing this, watch this
section of the video again.

Back

Blade

Draw double
lines based
on your straight
edge

Page 56/62
5 4 3 2 1
Board Splitter
Hold your metal board splitter up to the saw,
with the wooden board splitter mounting
components to help you figure out where to add
the "tab-slot".

The "front face" of Splitter 1 should be

making contact with part B, and the tab should
be making contact with the table.

Draw lines that are the exact same size as

the tab. Then come back with a 1/16" drill bit
and drill out that small rectangle. Do your
best to make sure the tab slot is NO WIDER
than the tab itself. You'll have to SLOWLY B
drill several holes, and SLOWLY connect them.
Note: If you need help visualizing this,
watch this section of the video again.

Your double lines.

Tab lines (they

don't actually
Tab need to be
this long. Just
so long as you
can see them.

Splitter 1 B
You'll be adding a screw somewhere around Splitter 1
here, but for now, you're just loosely holding
everything together. See the next pages.
Page 57/62
5 4 3 2 1
Board Splitter
Board Splitter (continued).

• Slide the tab into the tab-slot.

• Square the metal portion to the table with
a framing square (or similar type of
square).
• Start working on where to add your screws
through the metal into Splitter 2.
• Make sure the top of Splitter 1 is about
1/16" below the small shelf the table saw
fence rests on.
• Once you have an idea of where the screws
go, add one screw to near the bottom,
through the metal, into the wood. Use a bit B
that is just slightly larger than the screw
for drilling through the metal.
• Then use a bit that is smaller than the
screw for drilling the pilot hole. Also,
make sure you countersink the hole in the
metal (if you're using countersunk head
woodscrews).
This is the top of
Note: If you need help visualizing this, watch Splitter 1.
this section of the video again.

This is the small

shelf that the table
saw fence rests on.
Tab

Splitter 1 Splitter 2
B

You'll be adding a screw somewhere around here (near the Splitter 1

bottom of the metal piece, based on making sure the top of
Splitter 2 Splitter 1 is below the small shelf that the table saw fence rests on. Page 58/62
5 4 3 2 1
Board Splitter
Only having one screw through the plate will
allow you to play with the positioning of
things until you get it just right. Once you
have it just right, add a second screw.
Note: If you need help visualizing this, watch this
section of the video again.

When things are just right, add your

second screw around here.

Your first screw is around here. Page 59/62

5 4 3 2 1
Board Splitter
Using a framing (or similar) square, make sure
the metal portion of the board splitter is
perfectly square (perpendicular) to the table,
then add a strong clamp to hold Splitter 1 to
part B.
Note: If you need help visualizing this, watch this
section of the video again.

Must be perfectly perpendicular

to the table.

Clamp in place

Splitter 1 Page 60/62

5 4 3 2 1
Board Splitter
Board Splitter (continued)

• Drill (2) 5/16" holes all the way through

Splitter 1 and part B.
• Remove the clamps and the board splitter
• Widen the 5/16" holes in part B to 3/8"
using a regular point 3/8" bit (not a brad
point bit).
• Do NOT widen the holes in the board
splitter. Leave them at 5/16".
• Add t-nuts on the back side of the holes in
part B (you can use a clamp to press them
into the holes).
• Make knobs similar to the ones you made on
page 40, except you should use 1" wide
material instead of 1 & 1/4", and the bolts
should be about 2" long.
• When the knobs are ready, they will hold
the board splitter in place and allow for
quick removal.
Splitter 1
Note: If you need help visualizing this, watch this
section of the video again.
B

Must be perfectly perpendicular

to the table.

Page 61/62
5 4 3 2 1
You've built a table saw!

We'll end part 1 here (I'm sure you're ready

for a break). Pick up with part 2 when you're
ready to get going again. Congrats on making
it this far!

• Pat yourself on the back!

• Write a review for this product at

oneminuteworkbench.com

• Share the video to help me grow my

channel.

• BE SAFE!

• Build something!
Note: Please don't post this plan on the
internet. These plans are a tremendous
amount of work and are how I earn a living.
I am open to listening to your feedback! If
you think something could be better, send
me an email with your suggestions!
Thank you for buying these plans and trying
out this project ~ I truly appreciate your
support!

Page 62/62
5 4 3 2 1