AreteForks CombinedFINAL
AreteForks CombinedFINAL
AreteForks CombinedFINAL
Hut Information
This hut is managed by the exNZFS, a volunteer group of ex deer cullers
previously employed by the NZ Forest Service.
The aim of the group is to ensure the historical integrity of these iconic
reminders of the deer culling era is retained. The exNZFS have restored
this hut back to the original design for the 6 bunk S70 type and remains
as an important example of the classic huts deer culling huts that were
built throughout the back country of New Zealand in the 1960’s.
Please do not remove the information in this folder, it is provided for the
benefit of all hut users.
Thankyou
Email: [email protected]
Facebook: exNZFS
This hut has been restored by the exNZFS group to the original design of the Forest
Service S70 type 6 bunk hut. It is now one of only two S70 type huts in the Tararua’s that
are fully representative of the deer culling huts built by the NZ Forest Service.
The exNZFS is a group of volunteers that were employed by the NZ Forest Service as
deer cullers. The aim of the group is to ensure the historical integrity of these iconic
reminders of the deer culling era is retained.
The exNZFS have agreements with the Department of Conservation for the management of the
following huts and bivouacs in the Forest Parks - Carkeek hut, Arete Forks hut, Mid Waiohine
Hut, Dundas hut, McGregor bivouac, Mid King bivouac, Pararaki hut (Aorangi FP) and
Wairongomai hut (Rimutaka FP)
We are a volunteer group and welcome any contributions to assist us in ensuring the ongoing
upkeep of these remaining huts from the deer culling era.
For a donation, our bank account number is 030687-0011055-00
We can be contacted by email at: [email protected]
Our Facebook page is: exNZFS
The Tararua Deer Culling Huts
Find out more about the deer culling era at the website www.nzdeercullers.org.nz
Prior to the NZFS taking over the role of controlling deer in New Zealand, the Department of Internal Affairs
also built three huts in the forest park. Bannister Basin (removed), Dorset Ridge (replaced), and Andersons
Memorial (replaced). Andersons was the first hut air dropped using parachutes at high altitude, in the
country.
During the 1960 to 1968 the new S70 type hut designed by the forest service were constructed throughout
the range to support the deer culling operations undertaken by NZFS hunters. These huts were a standard
6 bunk design, and initially painted Orange so that they were visible from the ground and also from the air.
These huts were built throughout the New Zealand back country.
The early huts were transported into the Tararua ranges by fixed wing aircraft and dropped at hut sites
using parachutes. From 1961 onwards hut materials were delivered by helicopter.
The S70 design is an iconic hut that was built throughout the backcountry to support the Forest Service
deer culling operations. They had 6 bunks, open fire and cooking bench. These huts were of simple design,
but to the deer cullers that used them, they were home for much of the time they were employed. The
interior walls were lined to make them warmer and more vermin proof. The NZFS design did not provide
for lining of the ceilings but in the Tararua’s, the field office in charge lined the ceilings as well.
Initially all S70 type huts (except Maungahuka) had open fireplaces for heating and cooking. As wood
supplies diminished these were eventually replaced with standalone wood burners (except Mid
Waiohine).While many of these huts throughout New Zealand have been painted a variety of colours, it is
the Orange coloured huts that many hunters and trampers still identify with, as the classic deer cullers huts
of the 60s and 70s.
In the Tararua’s a total 14 huts were built to this design. Today 11 of this type of hut remain.
Mid Waiohine hut is the only S70 type hut that is still in its original state in the forest park and has been
identified by DOC as being representative of the original deer culling huts and worthy of preserving as an
historical building.
In addition to the 6 bunk S70 hut, a small “dog box” bivouac was also provided. This was designated the
S86 bivouac and a total of 9 of these structures were built.
Modification of this type of huts, and other versions of the NZFS deer culling huts are progressively being
modified throughout the backcountry of New Zealand.
The usual season for hunting went from the month of November to the following May. Food supplies for the
whole season were transported by helicopter usually in January to avoid the constant strong winds that
occur in the previous two months. Hunting parties usually comprise 2-4 hunters spending 6 weeks in the
ranges before having a few days off, then returning to hunting.
Prior to the construction of the 6 bunk S70 type hut by the Forest Service, cullers used a canvas tent camp
for accommodation. Hunting was initially done during the winter months, as well as in the summer, and
being a fairly shady spot, the winters were quite chilly!
Arete Forks hut was built in 1960. Material were transported by helicopter and the construction team
included Noel Frazer and Chris Main. The hut was built to the standard S70 Forest Service 6 bunk hut
design.
In the early 1980s the interior ceiling was modified and later a Pot belly wood burner installed. Wood
burners were installed at a Department of Conservation policy to phase out open fires.
The main focus of the exNZFS volunteers is the retention of the huts previously built by the NZ Forest
Service. These were the backbone of the hut network and now are important huts for trampers, hunters
and others to use. They are also important historically, and the hut building programme of the 1960s opened
up much of the remote back country of New Zealand. The remain as important reminders of the deer culling
era.
With only one hut in the Tararuas’s that still met the original S70 design, Arete Forks was a good candidate
to add another hut that is representative of the deer culling huts. Initial work involved repainting the hut in
original NZFS orange (actually Tangerine) in 2014.
Stage 2 was removal of the wood burner, installing the standard S70 hut Open Fire and removing
modification to the interior of the hut.
Funding of this project was obtained from the Outdoor Recreation Consortium fund that is administered
by the Federated Mountain Clubs. This fund supports hut and track projects throughout the New Zealand
backcountry. Funding was also obtained from the Tararua-Aorangi-Rimutaka Huts Committee. This
committee co-ordinated upkeep of the hut system and utilizes income received from the sale of hut
tickets and season passes to ensure the upkeep of huts in the forest parks is maintained. The exNZFS
are extremely appreciative of the support received from these two organizations. Without it, these
projects could not happen.
Arete Forks hut not long after construction in 1961. The tent camp used for deer culling operations before
Photo Chris Main construction of the new hut. This camp was located on
the river terrace upstream from this hut. Photo Chris
main
NZ Forest Service hunters, summer 1967. From left
Noel Frazer (field officer), Chris Peterson, Derrick
Field, Russ Hulme and dog Rusty. Photo Paul
Gush
Arete Forks 2012.
Stage one of restoring the hut to original design. exNZFS volunteers, Grant Timlin and Steve Elgar
Original paint for exterior. exNZFS volunteers Paul installing the chimney. June 2016.
Gush and Hans Kolinko, February 2014.
The following lists the S70 huts and S86 Bivouacs constructed in the forest park. Only two of the original
S86 type bivouacs remain.
Extract from
Shelter from the Storm by Shaun Barnett
Between the years 1957 and 1972, the prodigious NZFS machine built 644 huts, 36 shelters, 26
vehicle bridges, 142 footbridges, 22 cableways, 2900 kilometres of roads, 1400 kilometres of 4WD
tracks and about 4000 kilometres of tramping tracks. By the 1970s, New Zealanders could boast
perhaps the densest network of backcountry facilities in the world, and certainly the only one almost
wholly constructed by a government
However, hut modifications are not always appropriate. To the heritage-conscious historian, some huts
must survive in near-original condition. By 2006, a half-century had passed since the first NZFS huts
had been built, and their heritage value needed fresh assessment. To this end, DOC employed
Wellington historian Michael Kelly to research and write about deer-culling huts, the result being his
informative 2007 publication Wild Animal Control Huts: A National Heritage Identification Study.
Crucially, Kelly identified key NZFS heritage huts, including Mid Waiohine (Tararua Forest Park), Top
Maropea (Ruahine Forest Park) and Mt Fell Hut (Mt Richmond Forest Park). His report, together with
the work of DOC historian Jackie Breen, has led to a renewed appreciation of these simple structures,
the cullers who lived in them and their place in our history. As Kelly put it:
‘the iconic status of the government hunter was inspired by the writing of Barry Crump and others. The
role of the hut in all this is not often explicitly acknowledged but it certainly provided the ‘settings’ for the
books. The hut was an ever-present stage or prop in such books. Some hunters remember particular
huts with fondness, either for particular events, or for the scenery surrounding them, or the length of their
association with them ... Huts are therefore our abiding, tangible heritage of decades of wild animal
control
Read the extracts from Shelter from the Storm and also reminiscences by Athol Geddes and Chris
Main.
The following are some comments by Chris Main, one of the deer cullers based in this area in 1959 to 1961.
This hut was built in 1961 by NZ Forest Service hut builders (mountain men) to replace a tent camp
which was situated near this hut on a river terrace (see photo) and used by Deer Cullers from 1959.
Arete Forks camp was a favourite with us hunters as the hunting was very good and hundreds of deer
were shot from here. Plenty of fire wood was handy too. Although the nights were cold and our
sleeping bags were often wet with condensation in the morning. We also cleared a river flat nearby for
a helicopter landing and it was very pleasant when the hut was built. Another improvement was a
bench rest we made to shoot our rifles in where there was some distance across the river to a target.
Besides the camp here, we had another at Cow Creek and used Bannister Basin hut and Dorset Ridge
Hut. Although both these huts provided shelter, fire wood was scarce and had to be carried a fair way
which was a real hassle particularly in winter. Our main route in was over the Blue Range then up a
track from Cow Creek to Arete Forks. This track sidled up through the gorge and was rather a gut
buster as it climbed up and down. However, we often shot deer going through it.
Most of us hunters had a dog which we trained to point deer. They would also lead us back to a hut or
camp in fog or in the dark. This was a great asset as often deer would feed up onto the tops in fog or
wet weather. I remember I shot 21 deer in these conditions one day. I presume they feel safer! One
could also travel over the ridge from Bannister Basin to Arete Forks, almost in a direct line, as there
was good bush hunting on the way.
I hope all visitors enjoy their time at this hut and location as much as I did between1959-63; and spare
a thought for the others that have been this way.
TRACKS
The 1985 Forest Service map below shows the tracks cut to support the department’s deer culling
operations. Some of these tracks can still be followed but are not maintained.
Below – extract from the 1936 edition of the Trampers Map of the Tararua Mountain System.
The topographical map below shows the present official track network. The correct route that the Arete
Gorge Sidle track follows is shown in red.
GPS profile of the Arete Gorge Sidle track. From Arete Forks to Cow Creek
Note the Routes shown in red, One follows the old cullers track up to Waingawa and begins on the true
left of Arete Stream, 100 metres upstream from the Waingawa river junction. This route is still marked but
not maintained and able to be followed with care.
The other route leads up to the Table Ridge bushline and leads off the Sidle track to Cow Creek where
the track begins to sidle, approximately 15 minutes above this hut. This route is also still marked but is
not maintained but can be followed with care.
The track shown leading to Table Ridge from Cow Creek hut has been cut and marked by DOC and is
easy to follow
During to 60’s a large number of tracks were developed to provide access for deer culling operations. There
were a number of hunting tracks giving access to and from this hut. Many of those tracks have ceased to
be maintained after the ground hunting of deer was replaced by commercial helicopter deer recovery
As can be seen from the Tararua Forest Park map extract shown above, there was a comprehensive
network of tracks cut to support the deer culling operations. Even prior to this maps production, the 1936
edition of the Trampers Map of the Tararua Mountain System a Route is shown as existing up the True
Right side of the Waingawa valley from Cow Creek to Arete Forks and a continuing upriver to Tarn Ridge
Ted Smith recollections, interviewed by Derrick Field
(From the NZ Deer Cullers Inc website www.nzdeerculers.org.nz)
Ted Smith
Ted started his life in the Forest Service in 1959 when he went to the hunter training camp at Blue
Glenn, near the Dip Flat camp. Des Torrent was the instructor there, and they spent month training
and then shipped off to the Eastern Ruahine block.Vic Brosman was the field officer, and Ted hunted
the Makarora, Gold creek and other catchments on the eastern side of the range. Ted recalls shooting
33 out of 36 stags seen one day on the Gold creek tops. Photo below; Ted Smith (right) with NZFS
hunter Chris Peterson at the Eastern Hutt
hut. 1967
After 15 months it was off to the Kaweka
range working for Maurie Robson. Maurie
used pack horses for transporting food,
and this needed to hunters to cut eight
foot wide tracks sometimes. The tops
were clear of Contorta pine trees then.
There were plenty of Sika about, and Ted
used a .22 rifle sometimes. Normally Ted
used a fully wooded No.4 lee Enfield .303.
Hunters at the time included John Fisher,
Jim Stegman and Clary Halsey.
Ted spent 18 months in the Kawekas, and
then along with 3 other hunters was
transferred to the west Coast. Vic
Brosman went do also and was the field
officer. They shot in the Arahura, Styx,
Kokataji, Hokitika and Whitcombe valley.
The winter was spent doing carrot drops in
the Kokatahi and other valleys. Ted
reckons his 303 without a scope was fine,
and managed to get the top tally for one
period.
After a couple of seasons, he moved north to the Tararuas. Hunters there at the time included Russ
Hulme, Ken Seccombe, Jerry Kissling, Dick Heatherington, Bill Diver, Pete Hawkins, Aubrey Hohua
and Noel Frazer was the field officer. Athol Geddes was the District PF ranger in Masterton.
Ted had to come to the rescue with his .303 on a couple of occasions, to retrieve airdrops hung up in
trees. In the Washpool, when building the new hut he had to use about 80 rounds to shoot through a
branch to get a chute down. When the Mid Waiohine hut was air dropped, he had to use 110 rounds to
get down a chute hung up in a Rimu tree.
Mid Waiohine was always one of the most popular huts for the NZFS hunters. The river is clear and full
of giant trout, and hunting is usually good.
It wasn’t always so good for Ted and his mate, John Fisher. One day Ted and his hunting mate John
Fisher decided to go to Totara Flats via the river and hector Gorge. Some trampers had taken 17 hours
to do the trip, and they thought they could do lots better. Near Hector Forks the river rose, and Ted
managed to loose his .303 in the river. They couldn’t recover it, so it was out to town for another.
John went back to Mid Waiohine and after convincing the police that he had really lost his rifle, Ted got
a permit for another and headed back into Mid Waiohine over Mt Holdsworth. On the way down the
Isobell track, Ted shot a couple of goats. While taking some dog meat, he sliced his hand with his
knife. Dripping blood everywhere, he got down to Mid Waiohine to find John Fisher still at the hut.
Next morning it was back out over Mt Holdsworth to get his hand fixed up. John was to go onto
Maungahuka hut to meet up with some of the other hunters.
Ted got to town after walking out, and 3 miles down the Holdsworth road to ring up for transport. He
ended up in hospital, where they decided he wouldn’t loose his finger. Next day, John Fisher turns up
at the hospital, covered in “blood and guts”. Turns out he was shooting at some goats at Mid Waiohine,
and a rock rolled under his feet, and he managed to shoot himself though the leg. Then it was the long
walk out over Mt Holdsworth to get to town.
Ted took some time off and eventually had to have a finger removed, as it stuck out and was getting in
the way.
Back to the Tararuas, Ted spend another couple of seasons shooting. Other hunters there included
Paul Gush, Chris Peterson, Russ Hulme, Walt Geisser, Brian Oliver, Brian Barningham Simpson and
myself.
Ted was also pretty good with a hunting box. Athol Geddes told him he was wasting his time, but he
got to deer with the 55 lb bow in the Haurangi range.
Then Ted decided after five years he had had enough. He lived on the West Coast and moved to
Masterton, with his wife Toni. They have now moved for the quite life in the country near Mt Bruce.
John Rhodes talks to Athol Geddes, Forest Service Senior Ranger in charge of the deer
control operations in the Tararuas in the 1950s – 1970s
After leaving school in Lower Hutt in the early 1940s Athol worked in shops and factories, but quickly
decided he wanted the open air. The answer was deer-culling for the Department of Internal Affairs which
had charge of for wild animal control on Crown land.
"The wages were lousy, £6 or £7 a week" recalls Athol, "but sometimes we got bonuses of 7/6d or ten
bob a tail. If they told you to go to the Ureweras you found your own way there, there was no
recompense". The cullers bought their own .303 rifles for about £5. "The Department sold us canvas
'kidney rotter' packs and sleeping bags which we nearly froze to death in."
Athol hunted in the Aorangi’s, Ureweras, Ruahines and finally Westland . "When I was about 20 we
were up the Trent, a branch of the Ahaura. It was during the Korean War, about 1953. Some blokes
came up on horses, shooting for skins and getting fourteen bob a pound. One of them worked for the
Forest Service and told me about it. So one day when were out I went to Hokitika. You could get a job
anywhere in those days, they were two a penny. The Forestry people said 'Yes, but you'll have to go to
Wellington for an interview.' So I went over to Lyttelton on my motor-bike and across to Wellington .
They welcomed me with open arms.”
The Forest Service wanted Athol to be a draughting cadet but the lure of the outdoors was too strong.
He went to Rotorua and worked two years as a "timber cruiser" surveying blocks of native State Forest
for central North Island mills. The job was to estimate standing timber volumes so the Crown’s royalties
could be calculated. "We’d take several weeks to lay off and survey an area of 30 or 40 acres and that
would give a mill work for twelve months or so. We stayed in the cook-houses at the mills. Fletchers
had one in the bush at the foot of the Kaimanawas near Taupo. It's all pine trees now, but it was
beautiful totara then. We found Maori pigeon traps in the trees, carved out like troughs, and a half-
finished canoe."
The United Nations had started a world-wide project to measure reserves of indigenous timber. As its
part of this, mounted a ten year National Forest Survey, based at the Forest Research Institute in
Rotorua. Athol transferred to it.
Topographic mapping of the back country was still incomplete (see Mapping through the years in this
Bulletin), so the Forest Survey teams used aerial photographs flown for the purpose. "We navigated
east-west across the grain of the country with an aerial photo and compass, surveying a half acre plot
every half mile" remembers Athol. "We measured all the timber down to the smallest shrubs and
recorded animal damage too. They sent us on courses and we learned a lot about mapping and so on.
The people they had were a damn sight more practical than what they are today!"
Over a four year period the National Forest Survey took Athol to the Urewera, East Cape, Taranaki,
Westland, north west Nelson, the King country, the Napier-Taupo region and the ranges near
Wellington. The survey teams spent summers in the field and winters in Rotorua doing their
computations.
Athol Geddes in the Haurangi
(Aorangi) Forest Park.
Athol’s toughest assignment was the Wanganui River, around 1954. “It was lousy papa country with
rifts and chasms, and full of pigs. We got lost, because half the air photos had been taken in cloud, and
we came on some old farms and abandoned shacks. We camped and decided we were getting out of
there so we left early. We hadn't been going long when we saw something through the scrub - we
could just discern a bridge covered in vines. It was the Bridge to Nowhere. Down the valley we met two
cockies on a tractor. 'Where have you come from?' 'Over there.' 'You couldn't, it's too rough!' We
crossed over into the Ruatiti valley and phoned Rotorua from a farm house - we were overdue by three
or four days".
The National Forest Survey was completed in the mid ‘50s. Housing was booming and the Tasman mill
at Kawerau had been commissioned. Athol, now married, worked there for two years but "kept looking
over the fence out into the open." In 1957 he returned to the Forest Service in protection forestry,
based in Masterton, with responsibility for three forest parks: Tararua, Rimutaka and Haurangi.
The previous year wild animal control had passed from Internal Affairs to the Forest Service, and
Athol’s first job was to get it back on its feet in the Tararuas. The range had a sprinkling of tramping
club huts (Fields, Kime, Alpha, Cone, Allaway-Dickson, Totara Flats, Mountain House, Powell,
Waiopehu, Te Matawai, Waitewaewae and a few others) and a handful - Bannister Basin, Dorset
Ridge, Anderson's - built by Internal Affairs.
"I set up a tent camp at Cow Creek with three or four hunters and worked out a strategy. Our Forest
Service people in Wellington had designed a standard hut. We put our first one of these at Cow Creek
in 1960. The other guys and I decided all the locations. The only blue we made was Angle Knob Hut
which got blown away in 1980. We had our own carpenters; Noel Fraser was the main one. Max Cole
did contract work, Dorset Ridge and Totara Flats, and he helped with Tutuwai and Atiwhakatu. Max
was a good practical bloke.”
Internal Affairs had contracted Southern Lakes Scenic Services, based in Queenstown, to drop hut
materials and food with fixed wing planes in the hills all over. When the Forest Service took over wild
animal control in 1956 helicopters were still almost unheard of.
In 1959 pilot Naylor Smith flew Vosseler Hut, the replacement for Kime I, into the Tararuas. Athol
remembers: “Three of us were up there, in radio contact with Naylor. He dropped the first lot, a load of
timber from each bomb rack, then went back to Masterton. We watched him coming with the second
load. He was over the Main Range coming in from the north, on the Otaki side. Then we saw one of the
loads drop off and the parachute opening. Naylor came along on an angle and dropped the other load
OK, then he came on the radio and said he'd had a malfunction. We carried on and stacked the timber,
and late in the day we went back to old Kime Hut where we were staying. We thought we’d have to go
and retrieve the parachute the next day because they were ex World War II and hard to get. We knew
the timber would be a write-off.”
Forest Service personnel at a
brand new Carkeek Hut, about
1963. L to R: Athol Geddes,
Colin McIntyre, Ross Locker
(trainee) Russell Hulme, Dick
Hetherington, Aubrey Hohua,
Tony Newton (trainee), Jim
Taylor. Russell Hulme recalls:
“It was an unusual situation in
that two or three parties met at
Carkeek. Athol was on some
kind of inspection. His party had
come up the Main Range to
Nichols Hut and across to
Carkeek. It was shortly after
Nichols had been built and he
wasn't impressed by the tilt on
the floor, no one was.”
They found two packs in the hut. Some hunters came in, a father and son. “They said ‘We've got
something for you! We were down the ridge and when that load came down we weren't far away. We
thought something must be wrong so we brought the parachute!' Months later we came across the
timber, flooring and match-lining, down in the scrub above the Otaki River.”
Air-dropping was one of this 1960s public servant’s more adventurous tasks. “Another kind of
parachute that Internal Affairs used, and so did we, was smaller, about four feet square. These chutes
were wrapped in tubes of brown paper attached to the Cessna or Auster by rip-cords which tore the
paper off when you threw them out of the plane. We dropped 30 to 40 pound loads of food for the
cullers, packed in sugar bags with straw. The plane would be going in a tight circle, the G forces were
tremendous, and you'd throw as many as you could - two or three at a time. The parachutes were
supposed to be inside the plane till we dropped them, but we came up with a mad idea which Civil
Aviation wouldn't have approved of. We put the bags on the outside of the aircraft, four sugar bags tied
to a piece of four by two with a bomb ring in the middle, and the parachutes tied on. When the pilot
released the whole bundle the rip cords opened the parachutes. One time when Naylor was flying like
this the paper ripped on one of the chutes and it started to open, but he got away with it!”
Then the helicopter era arrived. “We used Jack Palmer’s Bell from Air Work in Christchurch. It was
transported around on a trailer and did the whole country. Jack flew Dundas, Arete Forks and Tarn
Ridge Huts for us, several loads per hut - all attached to the machine, not suspended from it. But first
he sat in Masterton for six weeks waiting for a break in the weather!”
In 1962 Athol’s team built Maungahuka Hut, pictured in Classic back country huts in this Bulletin. “Four
of us walked up from the Hector River to pick a site and camped there. Everyone said I was nuts, they
said it wouldn’t last five minutes, but it's still there. That morning we sat on the top with our rifles and
there were deer everywhere.”
For Maungahuka the operation reverted to fixed wing. “Naylor Smith flew it in with a Cessna using two
bomb racks with 1000 lb loads under each wing and 24 foot circumference parachutes. You could
stand at the aerodrome in Masterton with field glasses and watch the parachutes going down, up there
in the Tararuas. Afterwards we went back to helicopters, Bell and Hiller machines from Wanganui and
Taupo. There was lots of competition so the work went out to tender.”
Trampers in the eastern Tararuas know the best preserved of many crashed aircraft in the range, the
RNZAF Devon on Shingle Slip Knob. The crash happened in 1955, just before Athol’s time. Going in
with some others to pick a site for Mid Waiohine Hut, Athol took spanners, removed the Devon’s
wheels and hid them in the tussock at the bush edge. He was going to divert a helicopter to bring them
out so he could make a trailer, but it never eventuated. “Those wheels might be there still!” grins Athol.
Mid Waiohine was to become one of the best loved huts in the Tararuas. “We got down to mid
Waiohine and picked the hut site among the big rimu. We built a shelter out of pongas and used a big
square of canvas for the roof. Well she started that night raining. It rained and rained the next couple of
days, the river was up, roaring, and we only had the barest of food. The tops were clagged in. There
was me and Chris Main and Ted Smith. Chris said 'We can go up to Andersons Hut on the Main
Range, there's food there.' We managed to cross the river somehow, and off up the spur. On the tops
we came upon a big stag. The others said 'That's no good!' but I said, 'No, you've got to have some
meat,' and I shot it and we carted it along to the hut - just as well because there was only some old rice
and dried food there and we cooked up our fresh meat. But it kept raining, the clag was right down and
we couldn't get out.”
The weather started to lift. “Chris said 'Let's go over to Dorset Hut, it's had an air-drop, there's tucker
there!' So we set sail going north, but when we got along near Mt Crawford it came down again so we
dived over the edge. Chris reckoned he knew the way but he found the wrong spur and we ended up
down the bottom of Dorset Creek. The river was up and roaring. We crossed and 'Now where do we go
up to this Dorset Hut?' We climbed and ended up on McGregor Ridge. In the bush edge we found an
old Internal Affairs camp with rusty tins and opened them with our knives - one was Chesdale cheese
so we ate that. Then we carried on to Angle Knob Hut and the weather improved. The hut was full of
tucker so we were OK.”
In the 1960s the Forest Service was building not only huts in the Tararuas but bridges too, using a
standard design developed by its Head Office engineers. Athol Geddes: “They did the job
professionally and inspected the bridges regularly. The engineer would come in and survey the site,
sort out the positions for the anchors and how he'd get them in and what length of cables were needed.
This was months ahead so materials could be got ready for the next summer.
Then the job would start. “The two hand-rail cables went in first, then the four bottom ones that you
walk on.” The builders tied on to these wires while they continued their precarious work. Says Athol:
“Then they'd start the decking, working towards the middle from both ends. They were top-notch men!
Les Stanley was one of the last bridge builders, he works for DOC in Taranaki now. Ray Osman was
another.”
When it seemed Athol had just about exhausted his supply of Tararua yarns he remembered one
more. “There's a story about Atiwhakatu Hut. In the winter of 1969 we had a big search for Lester
Tweedale. I went up the Atiwhakatu River in atrocious conditions with the Spooners and Skeets,
searching the tributaries on the true right and ploughing around in snow up to our waists. Bryan
Spooner caught a goat. Then we pulled back to the main Atiwhakatu. Bill Bridge was running the show
from Powell Hut, and he radioed to us 'We're sending some tents for you.' We said 'No need for tents,
we're going to Atiwhakatu Hut.' 'There's no Atiwhakatu Hut!' 'Sorry, there is!' When was that built?'
'About a fortnight ago!'
By the time Athol left Masterton in the mid 1970s he and his team had built about a dozen Tararua huts
and bivouacs and some in the Aorangis, and they’d started replacing older tramping club huts like
Totara Flats and Te Matawai too.
“But” says Athol reflecting on all those huts and bridges, “sometimes we copped a bit of flak from the
tramping clubs. They said we were making the Tararuas too safe!”
Starting as a culler
I came to New Zealand from the UK in1955 at age 21 as a ‘ten pound Pom’. I had a background in
agriculture and was assigned to a job in herd testing (July 1955-April 1958), to which as a new
immigrant I was committed for two or three years. During this time I took up recreational hunting.
In 1958 NZFS advertised for hunters, and I signed up in May. A dozen of us did a month’s training
at Blue Glen near Golden Downs in the spring of that year. We learned how to build tent camps,
cook, make camp oven bread and build two-wire and three-wire bridges from No 8 wire. We were
also taught how to hunt the different species of wild animals, firearm safety, how to zero in and
look after a rifle, safety in the mountains (river crossing etc), and what clothing and footwear we
needed. We learned how to nail up our boots with horseshoe nails.
I shared a two-man hut with Ray
Forsyth. The tutor was photographer and
film-maker Jim Ollerenshaw. Jim was
taken ill before the course finished, so
we were left to our own devices and
went hunting.
I met Ben (Johnson?), who was to accompany me, in Masterton. After buying some food, Athol
dropped us at Kiriwhakapapa road-end in the afternoon.
Our job was to visit Bannister Basin, Dorset, Te Matawai and Anderson’s Huts in the northern
Tararuas. We had to collect food that had been air-dropped with small parachutes and store it
inside ready for F.R.E.S. survey teams.ii
The weather was OK, but we didn’t know the country and I had no compass. Athol had given us a
good map, though. We spent a night at Blue Range Hut on the way in. Finding Cow Saddle was a
problem, because there was no track and the cloud was down. Athol had warned us that there
were only a few blazes. We had to see across to the other face where it joined, or we could easily
go down the wrong spur and end up in the creek either side. We were lucky to find the saddle that
first time, but on subsequent trips we got to know it. We eventually got to Bannister—we found the
route down through the leatherwood—and collected the ‘chutes, some near the hut and others
scattered in the scrub.
We then split up. Ben headed for Dorset and I went across to Te Matawai. I got there OK, found
most of the ‘chutes and got the food in. Next day I set off for Anderson’s, but the cloud was down.
On the bushed section of the main range I got confused and started going back the way I’d come. I
spent the night out on the tops somewhere, huddled under a rock, and my sleeping bag got
soaked. I kept walking next day, suspecting that I might be going away from Anderson’s. After a
second night on the tops the cloud cleared and I saw Lake Horowhenua on my left, so I knew I was
somewhere along Dundas Ridge.
I high-tailed it to Te Matawai, got a huge fire going and stayed up till midnight drying my gear. Next
day it was fine again, so I got to Anderson’s. While I was bringing in the airdrop, Naylor Smith
came over in his Cessna, waggled his wings and dropped me a note: ‘If you are the Forest Service
bloke who’s supposed to be picking up the food, wave. Stay where you are, a party is on its way
up.’ I waved, and in due course Athol Geddes and three others (probably including Selwyn
Pawson) arrived from Waitewaewae. They’d thought I was a goner; I was two or three days
overdue and lost.
Weather had been bad. Ben had got out from Dorset OK. Athol gave me a hard time, but I think he
was very relieved that I was OK.
After that, I always carried a compass. Hunting was not the purpose of that trip, and I took no dog.
I then returned to my hunting job in the Ruahines. After the FRES survey of 1958-59, Athol asked
me if I would like to be a headman (H/M) hunter in the Tararuas. I jumped at the idea!
All the work was on wages, no bonus. The pecking order of promotion was second grade hunter,
then first grade hunter, then headman. Those that had dogs, if they were good enough, received a
dog allowance.
The H/M kept the day books (diaries). We trialled a system of time sheets, which HO wanted, that
was eventually adopted nationally. Athol and I had a session at HO in Wellington for this. We were
working for wages, not by tally as a lot of it was development work (track cutting and choosing hut
sites and helicopter landing pads).
For the first two years I was culling and doing development work year-round. I was based for six to
eight weeks at a stretch mainly in tent camps at Arete Forks and Cow Creek, and in Bannister
Basin Hut, which NZFS inherited from Internal Affairs. Athol Geddes was my boss. I got around
most of the Tararuas on recce trips and so on.
For the first year or so, we operated full time in the Tararuas; but after the first two winters we
spent our winters hunting in the Aorangis. The better climate there was a great treat and a real
morale booster. We had plenty of takers!
In the Tararuas our hunting priority was the headwaters of the Waiohine, Waingawa and
Ruamahanga Rivers. We had a route from Arete Forks to Bannister Basin. I once shot seven stags
in the roar in a single trip over that route, in the bush on the Waingawa side.
I can't remember our tallies, but they were in the hundreds. We concentrated the hunting in the
upper reaches of the Waingawa, Waiohine and Ruamahanga where the most deer damage was,
but we were not hunting all the time.
We shot goats in the Waiohine catchment. Our dogs were good there, as the goats were mainly
bush dwellers—a hundred or so, not high numbers.
The tent camps were of standard NZFS construction, and cullers were trained to build them. The
fly, supported on poles, was about 20 feet long. At the open end of the tent was a fireplace, built up
on stones, with a chimney of wood or iron if available. ‘Galley sides’ were laced from the tent onto
the fly at the fireplace end. Cullers could cook in shelter under the end of the fly. Doors were made
from the chaff sacks that we used for air-dropping food from fixed-wing planes at the start of the
season. We slept on a bed of brush and fern covered with sacking. Each camp could
accommodate two or three men, occasionally four.
Leo Hawkins tried to cut down a big dead tree near the Arete Forks camp to clear ground for a
helicopter pad, but he gave up because it became too dangerous when the tree refused to fall. It
later did so during the night, with a loud crash!
This was the earliest use of helicopters by NZFS. I think that Jack Palmer (based in Wanganui)
flew in the hut materials and the food to Cow Creek, Arete Forks and the other huts we used. He
had a small Bell which he towed around the country (both islands) on a trailer. It was flimsy, and
the Tararua weather made flying difficult.
The two huts we used most were Bannister Basin and Dorset Ridge. They had their set-backs;
they were small and cold and lacked handy firewood, which was always a hassle there. In the tent
camps we could at least have good fires, but our sleeping bags were wet when we woke in the
mornings during cold weather.
We had a hut and kennels at the road end at Kiriwhakapapa. That was our main route in and out
over the Blue Range. We didn't stay there long; just for a dip and wash in the creek and into town
for some r & r. It was pretty primitive. When I got onto staff, I had a hut at the single man's camp at
Ngaumu Forest.
Naylor Smith dropped the pre-cut materials for Mid Waiohine Hut from his Cessna, using large
RNZAF parachutes, in 1962. The last hut to be parachuted was Maungahuka, the same year. After
that, materials for hut-building went in by helicopter.
After we built Cow Creek Hut, I helped cut and mark the new track from Blue Range to Cow Creek.
We made a cullers’ walk-wire crossing (of number 8 wire) across the Waingawa River at Cow
Creek to get to our tent camp if the river was high. It came in handy on several occasions.
Soon after we finished Cattle Ridge Hut we were staying there in rain and a howling wind that was
sending spurts of water in through a knot-hole in the door; there was no question of going outside!
We couldn’t light the fire because the top section of the chimney got blown over.
Our route to Dundas was via Cow Creek and Bannister Basin, shooting from those huts on the way
in. We’d wait for good weather to go around the tops from Bannister Basin to Dundas.
On the tops, NZFS policy was to put huts where trampers could see them; shelter was less of a
priority. Hut building was a summer job, but it meant fighting the weather and there was always a
rush to get the roof on. You were working in the cold and wet, and as soon as you’d built and
painted a hut you moved on to the next one, so you didn’t get to stay in them much.
I learned my building on the job, helping the carpenters—John Leggemat (spelling uncertain)
building several new huts in the Kawekas, and Noel Fraser in the Tararuas. Both had other helpers
at various times, besides me. I helped Noel in the Tararuas only occasionally because I had the
other hunters and jobs to supervise (being H/M). However, we ensured that he always had helpers,
mainly to keep his morale up as it was such a rotten job in that climate and we wanted the huts
built ASAP. I had a bit of building know-how by then. On Dundas Hut, the other helper was John
Fischer. Most of the hunters helped out at that time because we were largely in the development
stage.
Noel had been building huts in other parts of the Conservancy (which included the Ruahines,
Kawekas etc) but then came to the Tararuas for hut building. He joined us permanently and took
over from me when I left the Tararuas. Ray Wise started on the western side about then.
Mid Waiohine Hut was air-dropped in packages attached to parachutes, several of which hung up
in the tops of large rimu trees. The only way we could get them down was by shooting at the
branches. Later the helicopter came to pick up the parachutes, which were packed up in a pile in a
small clearing on the other side of the river. I helped to load them and then we took off, but we
nearly crashed into the gorge because the ‘chutes were wet and too heavy. It was a hairy ride!
Fortunately we were able to land again in a small clearing down river and offload a few ‘chutes
from the racks.
Athol always enjoyed a trip in to see us, he was good company with a sense of humour and we did
a few recce trips with him; choosing sites for Cattle Ridge, Cow Creek and Arete Forks Huts and
planning ahead. He was keen to have a track down the length of the Waiohine, but we didn't get
around to it. It didn't seem to fit with my priorities! Was it ever accomplished?
I remember the trip out from mid Waiohine via Anderson’s and Angle Knob, described in the FMC
Bulletin (May 2004). But Athol used to come in from the office, so that trip was hard on him;
whereas Ted and I were super fit in those days and it was just another trip for us.
We normally lived in pairs but hunted separately. We’d get up early, taking turns to get breakfast
(e.g. left-over stew, baked beans, spaghetti, tinned tomato; seldom porridge because it didn’t stick
to your ribs).
Over breakfast, we’d decide where each of us would hunt. If it was clearing after rain, the deer
would be sunning themselves in clearings in the leatherwood. We’d get above them and shoot
from the ridges and spurs, ensuring we had a good rest for our rifles. We tried to get within 100
yards, but the range was sometimes 150 or 200 yards.
It was rare for deer to be on the tops except in calm, foggy weather, when they’d be up in the
tussock. In winter the upper forest and scrub was warmer for them than the lower forest. There
they ate coprosmas, broadleaf and five-finger, and they damaged the leatherwood by making
tracks through it. They’d chew the ends of Chionochloa flavescens leaves and nibble C. pallens
right down, sometimes pulling the shoots out. They also ate lots of herbs. Deer damage was very
evident, and the main ridges were all heavily tracked.
During the day we carried a little food – usually dried fruit or a jam sandwich made from camp oven
bread that we’d made during an evening or a wet day (we’d had a good breakfast!) We wore
Swannis, oilskin parkas, shorts and leather boots and carried gear for the day in a pikau. We had
to provide our rifles and other gear, and quite a bit of our wages went on that. The Forest Service
supplied ‘skin bags’ or ‘kidney rotter’ packs at a low price. These were simple canvas bags with
leather straps, one pocket and no frame. I didn’t get one, but they were good for bush bashing as
they sat low on the back. The NZFS had a stock of basic sleeping bags and ex-army .303 Lee
Enfields that we could buy, too.
NZFS supplied only our ammunition and food. At first the ammo was .303, for the Lee-Enfields.
They gave us three rounds for each animal we killed. Later we bought high-powered rifles of other
calibres with ‘scopes, which were far superior. At first we had to buy the ammunition for these or
else hand-load it ourselves. NZFS still gave us three rounds of .303 per kill; so we traded this for
ammo of the calibres we needed, or else for hand-loading materials. We used to do the reloading
at base huts like Cow Creek. Finally, NZFS supplied us with ammunition of other calibres (.222,
.243, .270, and .308), but we had to keep account of it. The allowance per animal was still three
rounds, so you couldn’t just blast away. You couldn’t get away with much! NZFS also made bulk
purchases of high-powered rifles and sold them to us at a very good price.
Mountain Mule packs were a new thing, and they sat well. Most hunters bought them, as they were
ideal for the job in carrying heavy loads. We also bought our own sleeping bags—several of us got
Fairydown ‘Everests’, being in the Tararuas for two winters. We used our pack frames for carrying
firewood up to huts like Dorset and Bannister. Some of the cullers used Trapper Nelson packs, but
they were tall and caught in branches and scrub.
At the end of the day’s hunting we’d bring back a couple of legs and back-steaks for ourselves and
the dogs, carrying them in our pikaus. There were so many deer, the animals weren’t big.
At some of the more remote huts (where trampers were less likely to be) like Arete Forks, we’d set
up a bench rest for sighting in our rifles. This was a wooden table or bench with sandbags or
clothing to rest the rifle, and a seat attached. We could shoot a good group that way. But ideally we
needed 100 yard range, which was hard to find near a hut. For a target we’d use cardboard from a
food carton (after food was brought by helicopters) with a cross marked with a biro. Whenever our
shooting was becoming inaccurate we’d sight our rifles in again. I was fussy about this, because
you had to have confidence in your rifle.
The only bivvy we had in those days was beside Cow Creek Hut. We used it for stores, track
cutting gear and personal stuff and kept it locked because some of our stuff was nicked from the
hut, where the locked cupboard was broken into. This was a problem at accessible huts like Cow
Creek and Angle Knob. We did leave some food out for emergency use.
But the tramping clubs were good, and they looked after their own huts well.
“In 1938 I answered an advertisement for deer cullers in the Tararuas. Several others and were invited to
Masterton to meet Captain Yerex who was in charge of the field operations for the Internal Affairs. About
a week later Bert Barra called in to see me on his way back from Taihape.” Bruce began his culling in the
Maingatainoka and Ruamahanga area of the Tararuas.
One of his memories is when they walked to the Park valley in the head of the Waiohine river. “In
february 1939, we were joined by Ray Lawrenace. We were exploring ways of getting into the Park valle.
This was a nightmare trip. I would not advise anyone to make that trip as its full of gorges. After a hard
trip up the Ruamahanga river we camped at the foot of Bannister., and the only deer we saw was a stag
on the only piece of ground suitable to pitch our tent. The next day we cut our way out as the deer not
penetrated into that part. He fog was down low , so we cached our ammo and tinned food and made our
way over Cattle Ridge down into the Lower Ruamahanga.
A few days later we set off from the Forks by way of Cattle Ridge to the Park Valley. It was a very hot
day. We were continually deer and going down the sides for their tokens. . it was late in the afternoon
when we got to Bannister and there was still plenty of shooting. One mob we surprised on the Twins
panicked and bolted downhill to find they had no where to go. They went sailing into space. Ray and I
went back the next day and collected their tails. It was 10 o’clock before we reached the Park valley. By
the time we cooked a meal and dossed into our sleeping bags it was after midnight. Not one of us stirred
before 10am the next morning. We got over 150 tails there but had to return to base when we ran out of
food and we were now low on ammo. We made several trips to the Park Valley but the weather often
beat us”.
Renowned deer culler and animal control expert, is a significant figure in both Wairarapa and 20th
century huting history. During the 1930s and ’40s, Bert shot for Internal Affairs, exceeding 24,000
animals over his career and often had the top seasonal tally for Government shooters. He came to
Wairarapa in 1935 as a Field Officer for Deer Control in the Tararuas, where he was responsible for
the hunting programme. Retiringfrom the New Zealand Forest Service in the early 1970s, Bert lived
out his days in a simple hut with no power at Kaituna in the Upper Waingawa, on the main route to
Mount Mitre . Photo – Bert at his hut in the Waingawa valley (Photo by Grant Timlin)
This is named the Barra Track in his
honour. Hunters who passed Bert’s
hut in his later years would often drop
him a back steak. Bert was always
most appreciative, proclaiming each
offering as “the best bit of vension I
ever had!” He was certainly well
qualified to know. It is hoped that this
story of what is thought to be Bert’s
last deer will be of interest to those
who knew him. He didn’t shoot it, in
fact at nearly 90 years old with poor
health he may not have been able to,
but it certainly wouldn’t have
happened without him. Kaituna
farmer Chris Tait who owns the land
on which Bert’s hut stands tells the
story.
The spiker had continued his wanderings and was now out
of sight. I got into the Falcon station wagon, laid Bert’s rifle
across the bench seat and somewhat uncertainly began my
first deer hunt. As it happened, he hadn’t gone far and I
managed to knock him over with one shot.
(Photo left – 20 Tararua point stag shot by Bert)
Five minutes later I was back at Bert’s with the whole animal in the back. “You missed the bastard
eh?” was Bert’s first query. He’d only heard the one shot and assumed I’d missed it. “No, I got it. It’s in
the back of the car” I replied, beginning to feel a little proud of myself. “Where did you hit it?” he
asked. When I responded in all innocence “In the head. Where else do you aim?” Bert laughed and
laughed. I think he liked me a bit better after that.
Bert went and got his knife. He looked at the spiker and decided he wasn’t up to skinning a deer
anymore. “He can still take one apart though,” I thought as I watched his bent figure astride the
carcass grunting and muttering as he did the business.
We chucked the lumps of deer into sacks for delivery to some of Bert’s mates in town. Bert gave me a
list of names and asked if I would do the honours. “Who are you?” asked one old culling mate as he
peered into the back of the Falcon. “I’m Chris,” I said thrusting a bloody sack into his arms. “This is for
you. From Bert”. He smiled. “Good one” he said. “Good old Bert”.
In 1999, Deer Cullers Society Incorporated met near Bert’s hut and planted a totara in his memory.
The plaque reads “In memory of Bert Barra. Deer Culler. Died 1993 aged 93.”
Deer have made a rapid increase since 1935 esp. in Mangahao, Ruamahunga, Waingawa, Waiohine,
Tauherenikau, Hutt & Otaki.
In various places the damage done by deer is equal to anything I have come into contact with
elsewhere, but more so in the bush than in the open country. The reason for this appears to on account
of the deer in the Tararuas being more a bush living animal. At the same time there is very poor variety
of deer fodder on the open country. Wherever there is an abundance of fivefinger deer are always
found to be very numerous, and it appears to be their main food.
Quite a large amount of undergrowth in the main bush has also been seriously damaged since our
1935 operations, such as the headwaters of the hector, Waiohina, mangahao and Ruamahunga rivers.
Also on the nor-west side of the Hutt and Tauherenikau Rivers. In various places during our previous
operations the undergrowth was so dense that it was almost impossible for a human being to get
through it, but at the present day, owing to extensive damage done by deer, it is almost impossible to
scramble through the dead undergrowth of sticks.
In the scrub above the bushline there is a good deal of fiverfinger which the deer are rapidly destroying,
and it gives one the appearance of the scrub having been destroyed by fire and a very large proportion
of these scrub areas have been damaged since our 1935 operations. Many large landslides have
already taken place and eventually they will develop into large shingle fans; this applies to many more
places than the Tararuas.
….in the Tararua area… the majority of deer spend at least six months in the bush and some never
leave the bush. In the early spring quite a number of the breeding hinds move out on to the open tops
and spend a few weeks until nearing gestation then return to the bush and remain there until their
offspring are strong enough to enable them to follow the mother when disturbed.
The older stags seem to adapt themselves to some outlying place from one mating season to another.
As for younger stags and young hinds, the majority of them commence to leave the bush for the open
tops in the early spring and remain there until the fall of the following year…. Deer use warm low-lying
eaten out country during the winter…. In quite large numbers especially on spurs lying to the sun.
Deer tracks
Since our 1935 operations many of the large deer tracks that were then being freely used by deer,
have now become impassible mainly on steep country. In most places, I have noticed that erosion
takes place on the lower edge of the deer tracks in the shape of a V and in the early stages of erosion
some of the V shaped pieces are on average from 30 to 40 yards wide and very often over 100 yards
wide and 150 yards in length and show increase after heavy rainfall.
Riverbed Erosion
Increased damage has been done to practically every riverbed in the Tararuas since our 1935
operations and some of the tributaries which were then small streams of from 4 to 5 yards in width
have now developed shingle beds from 20 to 40 yards in width, and strewn with dead timber. Some of
the rivers have also have increased the width of their beds by about 40 to 100 yards. In 1935
operations portions of these riverbeds were only about 40 to 50 yards wide, the water passing over a
rock foundation, and bush bound. In our 1935 operations these portions of increased riverbeds were
hidden by surrounding timber and undergrowth.
Extract from Shelter from the Storm
… it was the New Zealand Forest Service that had the structure, the money, the clout and the will to
scatter orange huts across the wilderness like Jaffas sent rolling through the landscape.
– Mark Pickering in his book, Huts: Untold Stories of Back-country New Zealand (2010)
By the mid-1950s deer continued to persist in New Zealand despite the combined efforts of meat
hunters, recreational deerstalkers and a sustained twenty-five-year culling programme by Department
of Internal Affairs cullers. The word ‘extermination’ no longer peppered the department’s annual
reports, and it stated success largely in terms of deer shot – an increasingly meaningless figure. After
its quarter-century deer-killing campaign, the DIA lost responsibility for deer control to the New
Zealand Forest Service in 1956, a change that was to have far-reaching implications for hut
development in New Zealand.
Ever since it lost its bid to control deer to the DIA in 1930, the NZFS had maintained that it was the
logical choice to manage culling operations, for two main reasons. First, the NZFS managed many of
areas where deer were considered to be a problem. And second, the Forest Service was better
resourced, with trained foresters and scientists who – it hoped – could research and understand the
deer problem more thoroughly. The Forest Service argued that shooting deer was all very well, but
were culling efforts focused in the right places? Deer, the NZFS believed, most needed controlling in
the erosion-prone catchments of major towns and cities, and it had long advocated the policy ‘Look
after the catchments and the rivers will look after themselves’. Forest Service managers, notably
Assistant Director Lindsay Poole (a botanist), firmly believed that control of wild animals preserved
vegetation, thereby conserving soils and preventing erosion in key catchments.
A new statute passed in 1956, the Noxious Animals Act, made the transfer to the NZFS official, and
the takeover came on 1 April that year. Some of the DIA old hands saw this as the worst of April
Fool’s Day jokes. Mike Bennett, author of The Venison Hunters (1979) had a sour view of the change:
‘It was not that the Old Firm had been exactly static over the years, but in the tradition of new brooms
everywhere, dust had to fly and something had to happen to create the impression that something
extra was being done. It was rather reminiscent of a supermarket chain taking over the village
grocer’s shop.
In one sense, little changed. Virtually the whole of the former DIA staff – including some 15 field
officers, 100 hunters, and support staff – transferred en masse to the Forest Service. Yerex, soon to
retire, stayed at the DIA, and in his place Ron Fraser took charge of deer-culling operations.
But in another sense, particularly with regard to huts and tracks, revolution was afoot. Not long after
the NZFS took over responsibility, it embarked on the greatest hut-building programme ever
undertaken in New Zealand and, possibly, the world. Mike Bennett summed it up: …the Forest
Service early took on a comprehensive campaign of hut building; contract carpenters were employed
and larger parachutes were used for dropping off pre-cut timber. Later, the helicopter completely took
over the role of the aerial packhorse.’
Initially, however, NZFS hut design centred on fixed-wing plane transport. Jock Fisher was one of
those had worked for Internal Affairs and was transferred to the NZFS in 1956. He oversaw hut-
building for both outfits, and recalled:
‘I always look back on the hut building as three eras: The Auster era where we dropped rolled
up flat iron and four-foot lengths of framing timber from inside the plane. The Cessna era
where we dropped rolled up iron and wing loads of six-foot lengths of timber from the wing
racks. Then the Helicopter era where we carried in all components for huts.’
Initially, the use of fixed-wing planes had a disadvantage in that the length of any materials had to be
limited to what could fit inside the fuselage. For this reason, the NZFS in Hawke’s Bay experimented
with a design using a bolt-together Dexion aluminium frame in the Kaweka Range. In 1957, it
constructed two four-bunk Dexion huts: Makahu Saddle and Back Ridge. Jock Fisher recalled that
Popeye Lucas, a major aviation figure in New Zealand who was heavily involved in air-drops, was the
agent for Dexion, and so possibly influenced this decision. Unfortunately, no extant records indicate
how many Dexion huts were built, but the two surviving Kaweka huts are important examples of this
brief flirtation with the framing.
Culler Ron Turner began work with the NZFS under Jock Fisher in 1956, serving in both the West
Coast and Nelson-Marlborough conservancies. He recalled:
‘The Forest Service, with its vastly different attitude towards the welfare of their shooters,
started to improve operational standards, and I was part of that new hut building effort. This
attitude is not surprising as most of the field officers were former shooters with the old Internal
Affairs Department. The push for better huts was repeated in many of the backcountry valleys
where shooting operations were carried out.’
Indeed, the regional hut-building efforts began by DIA staff on the West Coast spawned a major
development centre for NZFS hut design. At first, the Forest Service had a rather decentralized
structure, meaning regional conservancies often led the way in hut design. Ex-DIA staff, now part of
the NZFS, contributed a great deal to the early hut design and building, especially on the West Coast
and in Nelson. Some of the earliest huts built by the NZFS were two-person bivouacs, as they solved
the problem of accommodation on the tops. Ron Turner wrote:
‘Initially, on the West Coast, and after completion of the Wilkinson Hut [an early hut built in the
Whitcombe Valley during 1957], we built some of the early bivouacs or ‘bivvys’ … Being in a
snow zone meant the bivvys had to be water-and-moisture-proof and have a dry wooden floor
for sleeping on. Food and ammunition would be dropped in by arrangement, also fuel for the
kerosene stoves as there was no timber or alpine scrub nearby. These bivouacs may not
have attracted a ‘star rating’, but when the weather suddenly turned foul they were just great.’
At first, these bivvies were very basic indeed, comprising of not much more than a tent-shaped shell
on piles, with a door at one end and a window at the other. In essence, the tent camp had evolved
into a bivouac, with flat iron replacing canvas. The dimensions were essentially the same: 3 metres by
2 metres. During the late 1950s, this basic biv design changed rapidly, and by the 1960s bivs were
more like small stand-up huts with bunks, and sometimes even boasted small fireplaces and
chimneys.
Helicopter Huts
While air-drops from fixed-wing planes had enormously increased hut-building efficiency, helicopters
ushered in a complete revolution. From mid-1950s onwards, commercial helicopters began to operate
more widely in New Zealand. Despite the fact that the first ‘choppers’ were not particularly useful –
culler Jack Lasenby called them ‘unstable dragonflies’ – helicopters rapidly ensured a transfornation
in hut design and building efficiency.
With summer and autumn fully occupied by actual culling operations, winter and spring became the
default hut-building and track-cutting seasons. In the spring of 1958, NZFS Nelson Conservancy
building overseer Phil McConchie erected the first hut in New Zealand built using helicopter-
transported materials.
Snow Corboy, the NZFS Senior Field Officer in Nelson, engaged a Bell 47 helicopter to transport in
pre-cut framing for four new huts in Northwest Nelson (now Kahurangi National Park): Mid Matiri,
Luna, Kakapo and Karamea Bend. The huts were a basic four-bunk model, different to the later NZFS
standard S81 design, and another example of how specific regions led hut development before
national standards came into force. Materials for all four huts were stacked at Karamea before being
flown in by the Christchurch-based Braziers Air Works. To save flying costs, the helicopter was
transported to Karamea by trailer, but this ‘did more damage to the helicopter than the actual flying.’
Ron Turner was employed to help McConchie, and recalled all did not go smoothly with the first of the
planned huts, Mid Matiri, in September 1958: ‘There were two trainee hunters with me and my
objective was to prepare a landing site for the helicopter, to ready a smoky fire to indicate both the
landing zone and wind direction, and to clear the construction site. It rained, and rained, and kept on
raining for days with low cloud.’
After running out of food, Turner returned to the base hut at Murchison, only to be reprimanded by
Snow Corboy for abandoning his post. Happily, Turner got to fly back in with the helicopter, although it
remained cloudy, and he remembered having to ‘wipe moisture from inside the Perspex bubble’. He
continued:
‘My flight was really exhilarating but noisy, lasting some 11 or 12 minutes. It was so easy
compared to the wet, miserable hours of struggle and slippery rocks endured the previous
day. The first load of timber and iron were placed on site, undamaged, with my pack.
‘The particular method of construction of these huts called for the flooring to be put down
extending to the outer edges of the building prior to erecting the walls. This was an effort to
prohibit the entry of any rats, mice and possums, and to cut down on cold draughts. At the
entrance end of the hut there was a covered-in area for firewood and a place to store our
backpacks.
‘A ‘new’ insulating material (sisalation) was provided and we actually installed this sheeting
back to front so that the silver side faced into the hut thus creating a better, lighter interior.
This was a vast improvement from the rolls of dark malthoid sheeting or brown builder’s paper
used to line earlier huts which, while deflecting condensation from the under surfaces of the
roof, made the interior dark. Overlapping joints of the flat metal exterior sheeting were sealed
with ormonoid, a thick, black bitumenous paint (which had a dual purpose of playing noughts
and crosses on the chimneys).’
Swarms of insects often caused hardships for builders working on huts. Turner recalled, ‘the
sandflies were particularly thick at the hut sites practically driving everybody mad. We must have
killed at least 10,000 of them but about 40,000 came to their funeral.’
In order to convince the NZFS head office that the £60 per hour cost of the helicopter was justified,
Snow Corboy kept meticulous records of the hut-building exercise. His figures proved emphatically
that helicopters were more efficient than a fixed-wing plane, in terms of both cost and time. There
were other advantages, too, as Jock Fisher recorded: ‘Huts could be precut by the NZFS carpenters
at Golden Downs and landed safely on site, with no breakages, making it easier for unskilled hunters
to erect.’
Altogether, the NZFS experiment with helicopters was an unqualified success. In recognition of Phil
McConchie’s efforts, Mid Matiri Hut was later renamed after him. Although modified, McConchie and
Kakapo are the only two surviving huts of the four built that momentous spring of 1958. Karamea
Bend Hut has been replaced twice, and Luna Hut was flown out intact when the new Trevor Carter
Hut replaced it in 2003.
During the late 1950s and early 1960s, helicopters almost completely supplanted fixed-wing planes as
the first choice for hut-building. Helicopters allowed precision flying, with few lost or damaged loads.
Later, longer lengths of timber could be carried on a strop slung beneath the machine, enabling
efficient delivery of materials to even tiny bush clearings – something difficult to achieve with a fixed-
wing aircraft, as parachutes often went astray in the forest. Helicopters ensured the NZFS could
embark on a grand hut-building program at lower altitudes.
During the early 1960s, a second phase of hut-building using helicopter got underway in the Nelson
area, but this time they were mostly six-bunkers. The team involved, including overseer Phil
McConchie and carpenters Ray Osman, Graeme Coombes and Bob Sutherland, introduced new
professionalism. Osman recalls that prefabricating materials back at base, such as cutting dwangs to
the correct length, and scarfing corners joints, enabling swifter construction in the field. Among others,
the huts they built included Speargrass, East Matakitaki, Sabine Forks and Mole Tops in Nelson
Lakes; Roebuck in the Richmond Range; Wheel Creek in the Victoria Range; and Pell Stream at
Lewis Pass. In addition, base huts were built at road-ends or places accessible via four-wheel drive
tracks; these included Mid Glenroy in Nelson Lakes, Branch River in Marlborough and Station Creek
in the Maruia Valley.
Employing trained carpenters, and working over summer dramatically improved hut-building
efficiency. During the 1961-62 season, for example, Osman completed an Awatere Valley hut, toilet
and all, in just five days with fellow carpenter Bob Sutherland. Several factors helped: ‘Long summer
days, fine weather, good digging, and Bob under pressure from his fiancé to get back to town
employment.’
Ben Gibbs, who worked briefly for the NZFS as a labourer in the Nelson district, recalled building
Stone Creek Hut on the Wangapeka Track in the 1960s. He says that eight days was the usual time
needed to build a hut, depending on site’s suitability for digging holes for the piles and, of course, the
weather. One of the builders usually spent a day hunting to ensure fresh camp meat. Gibbs also
recalls:
‘[We] used to lay waste to acres of bush in those days – no regard for conservation values! –
in order to clear a safe landing area for helicopters. Helicopter … pilots were still learning how
to fly them safely in mountain areas. We NZFS hunters and track builders never managed to
get a ride in a helicopter. We always had to walk into and out of the site, carrying all our own
gear. We baked our own bread and cooked the meat we shot in camp ovens over the open
fire.’
By this time the carpenters were using the standard designs formulated in the NZFS head office.
By the early 1960s, the NZFS hut-building machine had become highly efficient. Its hut-building
peaked in 1960, when, remarkably, more than sixty huts were erected, and in 1961 a further fifty-five
were built: twenty-five four-bunkers, seventeen six-bunkers, and thirteen two-bunk bivs, equating to
more than one per week.
Despite its incredible efficiency, hut-building did not always proceed smoothly. In the 1961–62
season, for example, the NZFS dropped materials onto a flat at Mokihinui Forks after the accepting an
offer by the Westport deerstalkers to move them across the river to a site cleared in the forest for the
hut. Disaster struck, however, when a flood swept everything downstream before they got there. Ray
Osman recalled the strange sight of mattresses caught 3 metres up in dead tree spars.
NZFS deer-culling huts were basic but comfortable, usually well positioned near a water supply or
provided with a water tank. Although perhaps not intended to last for decades, many of the basic
SF70 six-bunk and S81 four-bunk huts have survived remarkably well – a testimony to their sound
design. It is no exaggeration to say they became the classic backcountry hut, and an icon of the New
Zealand mountains.
In the 1960s, most major catchment areas controlled by the Forest Service got a fair smattering of
huts, among them the Ruahine, Tararua, Kaweka and Aorangi ranges in the North Island, and large
parts of the Southern Alps, Northwest Nelson, Eyre Mountains, Takitimu Range and the Marlborough
mountains. Culling huts were also established on high-country leasehold land, such as at Poplars
Station near Lake Sumner Forest Park. The West Coast’s Hokitika catchment, flagged early on as a
priority area for hut-building soon became so well endowed with huts that one ex-culler quipped, ‘How
can they possibly have a noxious animal problem in the Hokitika? Half the bloody watershed is under
corrugated iron.’
With responsibility for all wild animal operations, the Forest Service also built huts on lands not
directly under its jurisdiction, including national parks managed by the Department of Lands and
Survey. For example, the Forest Service built the vast majority of huts (more than 80 per cent) in Te
Urewera National Park, plus several in Nelson Lakes National Park. In the 1960s and 1970s, Lands
and Survey also began building many huts in national parks, but the magnitude of their efforts paled in
comparison with that of the NZFS.
Statistics often blunt a good story, but not this one. Between the years 1957 and 1972, the prodigious
NZFS machine built 644 huts, 36 shelters, 26 vehicle bridges, 142 footbridges, 22 cableways, 2900
kilometres of roads, 1400 kilometres of 4WD tracks and about 4000 kilometres of tramping tracks. By
the 1970s, New Zealanders could boast perhaps the densest network of backcountry facilities in the
world, and certainly the only one almost wholly constructed by a government.
In The Venison Hunters, Mike Bennett takes a rather jaundiced view of all this development
(somewhat echoing modern-day complaints against DOC’s recent hut-building programme):
‘However, despite such innovations as foam-rubber mattresses to replace the old sack bunks
or beds of fern leaves, the entire programme got out of hand. There is a suspicion that the
unspent portions of the generous annual budgets were burned off in one way by an almost
ludicrous surfeit of huts in some areas.
… Orange-coloured huts with large black numbers painted on the roofs blossom every two
hours along the river bottoms of some valleys, and on the tops practically every basin has its
bivouac or home away from home. They were expensive and largely unnecessary.’
How did the NZFS cullers themselves view these huts? Some, like Bennett, thought them too
salubrious and lamented the good old days of tent camps, but that was partly nostalgia. In his book
Pack & Rifle (1986), NZFS deer-culler Philip Holden recalled one 1960s Ruahine Range culling stint
when he moved from the Big Hill tent camp to the newly-built Ruahine Hut. The change was
‘sheer heaven … For Ruahine is the latest kind of Forest Service hut: they have six bunks for a start,
and each one has a foam rubber mattress. There’s also a verminproof food cupboard, a workbench,
and several bins for perishables such as flour, butter, cheese and so on. These huts are spacious,
very practical and damn comfortable to live in.’
Most hut food cupboards were regularly stocked by helicopter drops, and gone was the need to lug in
supplies and dismantle tent camps for the winter. NZFS cullers could concentrate on their main task –
killing deer. By the 1960s, the days of skiing deer were long over, and cullers simply took tails as
proof of kills – which were then counted and burned by the field officer at the end of each culling stint.
Some thieving from huts by trampers or recreational hunters did occur. Jock Fisher recalls one such
occasion when he was shooting in the West Coast’s Whitcombe Valley:
‘[I] had picked up and stacked an air-drop in the Cave Camp, a party of CMC [Canterbury
Mountaineering Club] came over the pass and scoffed the only two tins of fruit in the air-drop,
which I had put aside for a Christmas treat. We normally did not get tinned fruit in an air-drop
in those days. They left a bag of rice in its place. When they got to Prices Flat Hut they noted
in the visitor’s book their names and the comment “looks like the Cave Camp has been hit by
a grocer shop.” When I got to the hut, I added ‘…and it was not the self help.’ At that time in
NZ there were a number of stores called ‘The Self Help’.
However, Fisher recalls that theft was the exception, not the norm, and generally relations in the
backcountry were congenial:
‘Cullers always had a reasonable outlook regarding trampers and mountaineers and never
objected to a hungry man obtaining a feed in our camps … It was often good to meet and
hear where they had been and what deer they had seen. And there was always a bit of
outside news and world events that they could pass on, and for those sports-minded shooters
how the All Blacks were faring in the latest test or how the cricket was going. Nobody had
radios in those days.’
The Forest Service – to its credit – continued to allow free use of its huts by trampers and
deerstalkers. Indeed, the NZFS had recreational use firmly on its agenda as early as 1961, the last
year it built more four-bunkers than six-bunkers. Cullers usually worked in pairs, and so rarely needed
more than four bunks – the fact that the NZFS six-bunkers became the most commonly built huts in
1962 shows how early the agency broadened its view of hut use. Officially, members of the public
needed a permit to enter state forests as late as 1965, but for decades the NZFS turned a blind eye to
this.
By the end of the 1960s, deer-culling operations were highly organized. NZFS cullers had good tracks
and bridges to get around on, and comfortable, well-stocked huts. Rex Forrester wrote in the 1960s
that deer-culling had become ‘very civilized, with untold luxuries like mattresses, kerosene stoves and
lamps in advance camps, which are now huts landed by helicopter instead of flytents; and even at the
base camps electric stoves and showers.’ He noted that shooting has changed from ‘an affair of the
individual against nature to a concentrated campaign organized like an army exercise … Today there
are lots of blokes rushing round with forestry degrees, goatee beards and clipboards covered in
figures.’
Forrester’s words were not dismissive; he was just commenting on how much had changed since his
DIA days, adding: ‘In areas like the Urewera Country, the Government has really got the deer down.
Only a few years ago Allan Duncan killed 1,100 deer in six months in one Urewera district, but in 1962
it took six hunters as long to kill that many between them.’
Venison Recovery
There is little doubt that the hut-building programme had a positive impact on the efficiency of
backcountry animal control. Rather ironically, however, the great advantages brought by helicopters in
transporting hut materials and supplies also made them ideal for shooting deer – so much so, in fact,
that by the late 1960s and early 1970s, helicopters made Forest Service ground cullers almost
obsolete.
As early as 1964, John Henham shot deer from a helicopter piloted by Jack Eskew and in the West
Coast’s Arawhata Valley, signalling an entirely new approach to deer hunting. By 1967, commercial
venison-recovery helicopter operators began out-gunning the foot-sloggers. These dextrous machines
could flush deer out of the most inaccessible places, surprising them by their sudden arrival and
outmanoeuvring the animals with their speed. By the early 1970s, prices for wild venison soared, to
the extent that dozens of commercial helicopter operators began to exploit the new bonanza. Many
NZFS cullers jumped ship, lured by the better money and kerosene-fuelled adrenaline of a job that,
though more dangerous, often got you home in time for tea.
At first these machines were strictly for venison recovery, but as the market for deer meat expanded,
entrepreneurial hunters developed techniques for capturing live deer to stock the country’s
burgeoning number of deer farms.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, the Forest Service responded slowly at first to these momentous changes,
virtually ignoring them in its annual reports. As Graeme Caughley points out in The Deer Wars, the
NZFS was very reluctant to admit that part of its raison d’être had been so quickly outgunned by
private helicopters, and for not one dollar of taxpayer expense.
Soon though, the NZFS recognised that the end of its ground-culling days were in sight, and in 1967
granted permits to private venison-recovery operators. On the West Coast, the Forest Service trialled
aerially drops of 1080-laced carrot for deer control in the mid-1960s, and in August 1967 undertook its
own aerial hunting trial. By 1970, the last ground culler on the Forest Service’s books finished up on
the West Coast, although other areas, such as the Kawekas and Tararuas, ground cullers continued
to operate as late as 1987. By then, however, the supreme effectiveness of aerial culling had become
undeniable.
Huts continued to provide accommodation (and still do) for ground cullers shooting goats in places
like Marlborough and the Richmond Range, as these animals were not targets for helicopter
operators.
Parallel to the decline of deer-culling was changing understanding of the nature of erosion. Pioneer
hunter Newton McConochie, whose hunting heyday was in the early 1900s, later became an
influential member of the New Zealand Deerstalkers’ Association. As early his 1966 book You’ll Learn
no Harm from the Hills, he expressed a theory ahead of its time: ‘There is the indisputable fact that
erosion has been with us throughout the ages … May I suggest that erosion runs in cycles, varying in
locality and time of activity?’ McConochie reckoned that possums posed an even greater threat to
native forests, and should be targeted rather than deer.
Scientist Patrick Grant later proved emphatically that McConochie’s ideas on erosion were correct. By
comparing historic photographs with modern one of the Ruahine Range, he convincingly
demonstrated that many slips had been present long before introduced animals arrived in the range
and had not grown significantly. Erosion was more about natural cycles than deer browse. Deer were
off the hook – at least concerning their contribution to erosion.
Forest Service research using deer exclosure plots did, however, clearly demonstrate that deer
dramatically depleted certain palatable plants, notably broadleaf, changing the natural composition of
the understorey. But possums soon supplanted deer as the pest of most concern. The Forest Service
had begun aerial 1080 possum control on the West Coast in the late 1950s, and by the 1970s control
of the pest became one of its major functions.
How much huts helped deer control seems, in hindsight, something of a moot point. At least part of
the Forest Service’s intention was to encourage private hunters into remote areas, and huts certainly
helped achieve this goal. The NZFS continued to build huts, recognising their value for outdoor
recreation. For trampers and other outdoor enthusiasts such as anglers, the impact of these huts was
nothing short of transformational and set recreational patterns of use that persist to this day.
Backcountry Boom
As tramper Mark Pickering points out in his 2004 book A Tramper’s Journey, all the extensive new hut
and track network, combined with accompanying well-sited bridges, contributed significantly to a
tramping boom: ‘For over 40 years the initials NZFS meant one thing to trampers: tracks and huts.’ All
of a sudden, these facilities opened up vast areas of the bush and mountains to less experienced
trampers. Huts negated the need to carry a tent, bridges avoided the problems of flooded rivers, and
tracks offered easy, quick passage. Trampers could accomplish in a weekend trip what had taken
their predecessors several days. In the 1970s, tramping clubs enjoyed a second golden age, and the
NZFS huts and track played no small role in that surge in outdoor activity.
Pickering also reckoned the basic NZFS hut has probably never been bettered: ‘There was nothing
flash or clever about them, but they kept you dry through wet spring storms, were airy in summer and
warm through winter. They did not intrude on the landscape, and were often positioned superbly well
by men who knew the value of being close to water, firewood and views.’
In the 1970s, the encouragement of outdoor recreation became an increasingly important role of the
NZFS. As early as the 1920s, the Forest Service’s first director, Leon MacIntosh Ellis, had stated ‘The
rapidly increasing popularity of the national forest domain as a people’s playground is being
encouraged by the Service.’ By the 1950s, the Forest Service had responded to demands from the
public for better access to, and opportunities in, its state forests, developing the concept of ‘state
forest parks’. Tararua State Forest Park, first established in 1954, was New Zealand’s first, followed
by Craigieburn State Forest Park, the first in the South Island, three years later. From the mid-1960s
onwards, the state forest parks concept took off, with fifteen gazetted in the 1970s alone. The deer-
culling huts and tracks neatly dovetailed with this development, and it is no accident that most state
forest parks were formed in areas that previously had been a priority for deer-culling.
Admittedly, forest park development was partly a reaction by the NZFS against proposals for national
park, which would have resulted in the agency losing land to its rival, the Department of Lands and
Survey. But only the most cynical would dispute that the Forest Service increasingly encouraged
outdoor recreation, simply because this was a worthy public service. For example, in 1965, after
responding to calls from the Golden Bay Alpine and Tramping Club to establish a park in Northwest
Nelson, the NZFS recut the overgrown Heaphy and Wangapeka tracks, and established new, larger
huts. The size of these huts undeniably indicated their sole function as facilities for outdoor recreation.
The Forest Service also allowed clubs or other groups to build huts, subject to certain conditions, as
this 1960s working plan for Northwest Nelson explained:
‘Approved organisations wishing to build their own huts in the park may be allowed to do so,
provided the site, design and materials are approved by the park administration and adequate
provision is made for rubbish and sewage disposal. The huts shall be open to the public at all
times. To assist with construction costs a 1 pound for 2 pound subsidy may be granted, but
the maximum subsidy shall be 250 pounds.’
During the 1970s, the Forest Service continued to build an impressive number of huts, although its
pace had slowed. For example, in 1976 it built four two-bunk bivs, and ten six-bunk huts. Hut-building
generally helped curry favour with the public too – an important consideration at this time, when the
agency was facing increasing opposition to its native logging operations in places like Pureora,
Whirinaki and the West Coast.
As outdoor recreation gained popularity, pressure on facilities created new issues, particularly
rubbish, overcrowding and firewood use. At first, the Forest Service simply dug rubbish pits into which
people threw all their refuse. When one filled up, rangers dug another. But not only were these pits
unsightly, they also attracted rodents and even posed some degree of risk, as one NZFS ranger
discovered during a night spent at Kings Hut on the Wangapeka in 1976: ‘our Senior E.F.
[Environmental Forestry] Ranger took the opportunity to inspect and gauge the depth of the rubbish
disposal hole by the unusual method of stepping into it in the dark. The depth was O.K. but the water
level was rather high.’
Rubbish pits were clearly unsustainable, and by the mid-1970s the Forest Service began considering
alternative methods. Not long after the formation of the Department of Conservation in 1987, rubbish
pits were abandoned in favour of a ‘pack it out’ policy that has succeeded in reducing rubbish to a
large degree.
As the popularity of huts on tracks like the Wangapeka and Heaphy increased, firewood became
scarce, often resulting in damage to live trees by irresponsible trampers and hunters. The NZFS
responded by supplying huts with firewood, cut from local trees at the beginning of the busy summer
tramping season. In 1985, however, a revised indigenous forest policy meant pubic consultation had
to occur before native trees were used for purposes such as firewood. For this reason the NZFS
decided to investigate charging users for staying in huts to offset firewood costs, and to encourage
trampers to carry their own portable cooking stoves and use the hut wood stoves only for essential
heating. Gas cookers offered another solution, and were trialled in several Heaphy Track huts during
the mid-1970s.
By the time DOC superseded the Forest Service in 1987, NZFS huts were a far cry from the shelters
used by the early deer-cullers. The agency had built large huts with twenty bunks or more, including
Kings Creek Hut on Nelson’s Wangapeka Track, Hope Kiwi Lodge in Canterbury’s Lake Sumner
Forest Park and Hamilton Hut in Craigieburn Forest Park. Others, like the Lockwood huts in the
Kaimanawa Forest Park, boasted two bunkrooms and a central living area, joined by a covered
veranda.
Overstayers were one measure of how good huts had become. In 1982, the Northwest Nelson State
Forest Park Advisory Committee received a complaint from a ‘Mr Cook’ who felt he had been unfairly
evicted from Trilobite Hut in the Cobb Valley by a Forest Service ranger after a stay of several
months. Consequently, the committee recommended a maximum stay of seven nights when the hut
was not occupied by other users, or a two-night maximum when others were in residence.
In short, the Forest Service had fully embraced outdoor recreation as one of its public services, and
attempted to provide a range of facilities to meet a diverse range of needs.
Recognition of the role played by the Forest Service to foster recreation, particularly with its six-bunk
huts, has been undervalued.
DOC has made welcome improvements to many ex-NZFS huts. Good examples include those in the
Ruahine Forest Park, where a veranda was added to several, the layout changed to accommodate
eight people on platform bunks, and skylights installed for extra light.
However, hut modifications are not always appropriate. To the heritage-conscious historian, some
huts must survive in near-original condition. By 2006, a half-century had passed since the first NZFS
huts had been built, and their heritage value needed fresh assessment. To this end, DOC employed
Wellington historian Michael Kelly to research and write about deer-culling huts, the result being his
informative 2007 publication Wild Animal Control Huts: A National Heritage Identification Study.
Crucially, Kelly identified key NZFS heritage huts, including Mid Waiohine (Tararua Forest Park), Top
Maropea (Ruahine Forest Park) and Mt Fell Hut (Mt Richmond Forest Park). His report, together with
the work of DOC historian Jackie Breen, has led to a renewed appreciation of these simple structures,
the cullers who lived in them and their place in our history. As Kelly put it:
‘the iconic status of the government hunter was inspired by the writing of Barry Crump and
others. The role of the hut in all this is not often explicitly acknowledged but it certainly
provided the ‘settings’ for the books. The hut was an ever-present stage or prop in such
books. Some hunters remember particular huts with fondness, either for particular events, or
for the scenery surrounding them, or the length of their association with them ... Huts are
therefore our abiding, tangible heritage of decades of wild animal control.’
Training to become a Deer Culler.
(From www.NZDeerculler.org.nz)
The ‘Skipper’ Captain Yerex, insisted on a high standard of organization, effort and safety. He recognized
early in the deer destruction campaign that some form of training would be beneficial.
The first training began from a basic tent camp in the Boyle River, Lewis Pass in 1938. Jack McNair, one
of the original cullers was the instructor until the onset of the second world war in 1939 interrupted
proceedings.
In late autumn of 1946 a new training camp was established at Tyntesfield Station in the Omaka Valley
,Marlborough. It’s purpose was to train recruits until the required national manpower level of about one
hundred hunters was reached, and also to take part in a winter campaign against feral animals in
Marlborough.
Logan Bell, an exceptionally hard taskmaster, was the officer in charge, assisted by field officers, Bert
Barra, Jim Mills, Les Owen, and Jim Ollenrenshaw.
The trainees lived under canvas and received instruction in camp cookery, bread baking, rifle care and
safety. Camp and hygiene standards were very high, with no second chance, and immediate dismissal
for transgressors. Photo below; Trainee hunters accommodation - Dip Flat
Trainees were paid second grade hunters rates of Three pounds and five shillings per week.
Dependant on prior experience and progress, a new hunter could be posted to a block in as little as
one week or as much as three weeks.
Once manpower levels reach the required level, training was scaled back, then discontinued, and the
camp closed.
The 1946 winter campaign in Marlborough accounted for 50,460 goats, 4,604 pigs, 3,570 wild
sheep,1441 deer, and 14 Chamois. A total of, 60,089 animals.
Following the NZ Forest Service takeover of wild animal control in 1956, a training facility was aquired
at Dip Flat, in the upper Wairau valley, Marlborough. The camp consisted of a number of two man ex
-Electricity Dept huts and a kitchen/mess hall.
In 1958 Ron [Jock] Fisher a senior field officer was asked to organize and get the program up and
running. He appointed Jim Gibson and Jack Wildermoth to be the first instructors. These three men,
seasoned professionals all, ran a very successful operation on a very tight budget.
After they moved on to other positions the camp was managed from head office Nelson, by Peter
Logan, with a team of instructors based at Dip Flat. With the advent of venison recovery and deer
numbers in operational areas decreasing, it became harder to retain hunters. The cost of training
became prohibitive and Dip Flat closed down in May 1963.
Courses were originally of six weeks duration but expanded to eight weeks by 1960.
Numbers per intake varied from 12 initially, to as many as 28 in later years. The attrition rate, both from
being fired and dropping out, was high with instances of as few as three or four trainees from an intake
succeeding in graduating.
As with the earlier camps, initial training concentrated on camp building, camp hygiene, cooking,
baking, first aid, bush navigation, river crossings, rifle care etc, all the essential skills to equip a man to
live and work comfortably and safely in the mountains for long periods of time. The trainees were paid
at second grade hunters rates which in 1960 were Fifteen pound and ten shillings per six day week.
Typically the trainees would spend their first night or two in the huts then shift into tent,camps, both in
summer and winter. The first two weeks were devoted to basic training followed by four to six weeks in
the field. Those lucky enough to make the grade were then posted to a conservancy as a second grade
hunter. Physically, the course was extremely demanding, particularly so for those who were unfit when
starting out. Successful graduates who went on to spend several or more years culling made many life
long friendships and share fond memories of their time at Dip Flat.
Following the closure of Dip Flat each conservancy instituted some form of training of their own, or
posted new recruits to a block, and let them learn on the job.
There was also a basic training course conducted at Blue Glen, in the Golden Downs Forest, Nelson,
under the tutelage of Jim Ollenrenshaw. This catered mainly for personal from the Forest Service
Woodman Training School.
McGregor Bivouac – built 1966 Winchcombe Bivvy. Built 1966. Removed 1990
Angle Knob Hut – destroyed by wind 1981? Neill Forks – built 1963
Cattle Ridge Hut – built 1961, chimney blown off Eastern Hutt hut – built 1962
Mid Otaki hut – 1968. Relocated to Andersons Carkeek Ridge hut 1962
Anderson Memorial Hut; built 1947. Replaced 1983 Nichols Hut – built 1963
Dorset Ridge hut. Built 1955. Replaced 1968 Bannister Basin Hut. Built 1955. Removed 1981
Mid Waiohine hut – built 1962 Penn Creek hut – built 1968. Plus original camp
Tararua Work progress March 2014 to July 2016
Mid Waiohine Hut
Repaint exterior
with traditional
NZFS Orange.
Repaint interior with
original NZFS
green colour.
Carkeek Hut
Repaint interior, Install wagener
Cooktop wood burner, relocate
toilet
Public backcountry huts in the Tararua, Aorangi and Rimutaka Forest Parks are the responsibility of the
Department of Conservation (DOC).
The participation of tramper’s and hunters in the building and upkeep of huts and tracks has a long history
in these forest parks. Before the hut and track development programmes of the NZ Forest Service (NZFS)
in the 1960s, most of the hut networks in the forest parks were developed by clubs. In the Tararua’s, nearly
all 30 huts were built by clubs and most of the track network was developed by clubs also.
Arête Forks and Mid Waiohine huts, two classic deer The beginning of the intensive deer culling operations by the
culling huts recently restored thanks to funding from
the ORC and Huts Committee.
NZFS saw 20 huts and bivouacs built, mostly in remote
areas of the forest park. An extensive track network was
also established to support the deer culling. Today, many of
the club huts remain, and some have been replaced or
removed. Trampers and hunters still play an active role in
providing huts in the forest park. In the Tararua’s, clubs
maintain or have an historical involvement in 31of the 44
huts that now exist in the forest park.
Since 1988 DOC, tramping and hunting clubs have worked
collectively to maintain the hut system. This is done through
the Tararua Aorangi Rimuataka Huts Committee (TARHC).
A total of 16 clubs that manage huts are represented on the
TARHC as is DOC. Funding of hut upkeep was initially
achieved by the collection of hut fees the department
receives from Hut Ticket and Pass sales. This enabled
several huts to be replaced (Waitewaewae, Mangahao
Flats, Tarn Ridge) plus several major upgrades. A major
injection of funding by DOC also saw improved upkeep of
huts as part of an upgrade of all recreational facilities
throughout the country.
The TARHC still coordinate the upkeep of huts and provide
funding derived from the hut fees system to groups
managing huts. The hut ticket and pass purchases by hut
users are an essential source of funding for the work of the
Huts Committee. The exNZFS is a member of the TARHC.
In 2015 the Outdoor Recreation Consortium (ORC) was established, to support funding the upkeep of huts
and tracks by volunteer groups on Conservation lands throughout the country. Members of the ORC are
Federated Mountain Clubs, NZ Deerstalkers Association and Trail Fund NZ. The ORC have enabled
volunteer groups to undertake many hut and track maintenance and construction projects.
The exNZFS have been fortunate in receiving funding from the ORC and also the Huts Committee for
upgrading projects of huts managed by our group.
Wild Animal Control Huts
Historic Heritage Assessment
Michael Kelly
Published by
Department of Conservation
PO Box 10-420
WELLINGTON 6011
Part 1: A General History
5. Galbreath R. 1993, Working for Wildlife, A History of the New Zealand Wildlife Service,
Bridget Williams Books and Historical Branch, Department of Internal Affairs p. 17
6. Galbreath p. 16
7. McKelvey p. 94
8. Ibid. p. 20
9. McKelvey p. 21
10. McKinnon and Coughlan p. 18
11. Galbreath p. 27
12. Ibid. p. 28
13. Pers. comm. Alan Farmer (former Internal Affairs and NZFS hunter) to author, 8 July 2002
14. IAD 48/26 Part 2, A.P. & Game Act – Deer Destruction – Conference of Field Staff Head Office,
Archives New Zealand, Wellington
With Yerex back in charge after the war, the Wild Life Section revived
the idea of air dropping huts. When it became known what was being
considered, the Canterbury Mountaineering Club offered their expertise
and designs, honed through years of carrying hut materials in on people’s
backs. There is no evidence Yerex was interested in their offer. Instead
he planned a two–pronged programme, dependent on the co–operation
of Aerodrome Services and the Architectural Branch of Public Works. The
former were asked for the use of their planes and pilots to “put in, by
air, material for huts and also to provision them”. 18 From Public Works’
15. Breen J. 2006, ‘Landsborough Ranger’s Hut: Historic Assessment’, prepared for South
Westland / Weheka Area Office, West Coast Conservancy pp. 11–12, 20–21
16. Farmer A. (with Graydon J.) 1994, The best job ever (a life of hunting), Halcyon Press,
Auckland pp. 61
17. Pers. comm. Alan Farmer
18. Letter from Major Yerex to staff n.d. 1945; file 48/51/2 Pt.1, Deer Destruction – erection of
high level huts, Department of Internal Affairs (Archives New Zealand)
Great change was soon to come over management of deer control and
one of the catalysts for change was American ecologist Thane Riney,
who was appointed by Internal Affairs to investigate the deer situation
in 1951. Riney’s investigations concluded that the campaign had not been
as effective as was thought. He showed that, in general terms, deer were
able to avoid hunters in the bush and the deer being shot on the tops
Below: Hunters receiving were simply the easier to hunt and only part of the problem. McKelvey
blackboard instructions
outside the Hunter
suggested that hunters were only ‘creaming the herds’ 25 and could have
Training Scheme, Golden left as many as 90% of the deer behind. High infestations of deer were
Downs camp, August always thought to have coincided with areas of high erosion but Riney
1958.
J. Johns, NZFS–
showed this too was not necessarily so. It was the beginning of the end
AAQA6506,12– for the Wildlife Branch’s management of deer control.
19,945.3,3007, ANZ
25. McKelvey p. 97
26. Ibid. p. 98
DIP FLAT
Dip Flat was situated in the Wairau Valley, Nelson, and was so named
because high country sheep used to be mustered down from Rainbow
Station and dipped there for lice etc. The NZFS built a complex there
to train intakes of hunters in six–week courses and hundreds of entrants
went through the place. The complex included a kitchen, dining room–
lecture hall and ablution block, plus tent camp. The school was run by
Peter Logan and entrants were taught, among other things, bushcraft and
survival skills, open fire cooking, use of an axe and accurate shooting.
The dropout rate was considerable. As entrants passed each stage of the
course they were faced with yet more challenges before being offered
a job. The course culminated in a long hunting expedition, the final
initiation. Such was the turnover of hunters that the camp was forced
to close in 1963 when it became too expensive to train the number of
men required. Thereafter training was done in conservancies. Despite the
difficulty the course posed, many ex–NZFS hunters express considerable
affection and nostalgia for their training at Dip Flat 34 and there is no
doubt it played a key part in many young New Zealanders’ lives. Dip Flat
is part of the Rainbow Station and not on DOC managed land.
The system of huts, bivouacs, tracks and bridges served the NZFS well
while hunting continued to be an operational priority. Over the period
1956–1972 a huge infrastructure was established. According to several
sources, by 1972 ‘644 huts, 36 shelters, 26 vehicle bridges, 42 foot
bridges, 22 cableways, 29 vehicle fords, 2900 kilometres of road, 1400
kilometres of 4–wheel drive tracks [and] 400 kilometres of walking tracks’
had been built. 35 But the scene began to change during the 1960s.
In the late 1950s a few pioneers began sending wild venison overseas
and discovered a ready market. Very quickly a venison recovery industry
got underway and, with the use of fixed wing aircraft, some remarkably
ingenious ways were found to get the deer out of the bush. Jet boats,
tractors, trolleys and of course humans, were all used in the bush or in
inaccessible areas to get the carcasses to airstrips, which were often built
in rugged country on any available flat area. Generator–driven freezers
were installed near airstrips. The inevitable downside was the number
of fatalities in what was a very dangerous occupation.
34. Burdon B. 1993, Of Mountains, Men and Deer, The Halcyon Press, Auckland pp. 12–18
35. Yerex D. 2002, Deer – the New Zealand Story, Canterbury University Press, Christchurch p. 66
and McKelvey p. 105
36. Yerex p. 71. Luna Hut has since been removed from its site and now sits on a farm.
37. It may have been much earlier. Ash Cunningham states that W. Chisholm experimented with
helicopter hunting on Molesworth Station in 1958, as did Morrie Robson in the Kaweka
in 1962. See Cunningham A. “The Role of Engineering in New Zealand Protection Forest
Management” in New Zealand Journal of Forestry, Vol.2 No.2 1967 pp. 91–102
40 No. Helicopters
registered
30
Fran Begley, DOC
20
10
0
1940 1950 1960 1970 1980 1990
Year
With Government hunting on the wane the huts were made available
to trampers and recreational hunters. Tramping began in earnest in the
early part of the 20th century and some parks contained recreational
huts dating from the early 20th century, mainly built by clubs. The
origins of widespread recreational use of forests began with the trial of
a forest park system in the Tararua Ranges between 1954 and 1964. This
mountain range had been the cradle of tramping earlier in the century
and the Tararua Tramping Club (est. 1919) is still the country’s oldest.
After unsuccessful attempts to make it a national park at the time of the
country’s centenary in 1940, it had been decided to make the Tararua
Ranges an experiment in multiple–use management. Recreation – through
free public access – was to be one of those uses. Previously forests had
largely been off limits to the public, officially anyway, with the exception
of recreational hunters and trampers with a permit.
The success of the trial, and the public appreciation of the concept, saw
recreational use of New Zealand’s mountains grow enormously during
the 1960s and eventually 18 forest parks were created and thrown open
to the public. Trampers in particular appreciated the regular spacing of
hunting huts and tracks, which offered a great range of route options.
It seems probable that, with the success of the Tararua Ranges trial,
some recreational use had been envisioned by the NZFS and, later, huts
were built with multiple uses in mind. Eventually most huts were built
primarily for recreational purposes.
The boom in mountain recreation continued through the 1970s, and that
use only increased when tourism really took off the following decade.
New Zealand’s great infrastructure of huts – internationally an unrivalled
asset – offered backpackers the appeal of a tramping experience in New
Zealand’s magnificent back country. The irony is that many of the more
remote NZFS huts are generally not visited by tourists, only by the very
keen local tramper and hunter.
Few pastimes or occupations in New Zealand have given rise to the level of
literary output that hunting has. Since Joff Thomson’s book Deer Hunter, 43
50 years ago, hundreds of books have been written by professional and
amateur hunters in New Zealand, many of them mythologising the pastime
and all of them adding to an iconic image of a man alone, or with his
mates, hunting the four–legged pest.
The reasons for this are two–fold. One was the life of the hunter. It
was essentially solitary, with the only company a dog or the occasional
hunting partner, and it was very hard, especially in the days before air
43. Joffre Aristide Thomson was one of seven brothers who shot for Internal Affairs and made a
living out of hunting.
HISTORICAL
SOCIAL/CULTURAL
The deer culler or hunter occupies a special, iconic place in the history
of wilderness land management. Hunters were mythic figures in the
New Zealand landscape and much admired for the difficult job they did.
Hunting also offered employment to young New Zealanders keen to work
in the great outdoors. But deer culling attracted all sorts of people; it
was certainly not an occupation dominated by men from the land, or
by recreational hunters. It became a rite of passage for many university
leavers. The erudition of many hunters reveals just how intelligent and
perceptive many of them were.
The hunters left their mark on the communities they frequented. The
towns and settlements around New Zealand’s forest and national parks
were the places where hunters were reintroduced to the social lives they
left behind each summer, spent their earnings – often in hotels – and
recounted their experiences.
The commentary on the mythology of the hunter in Part 1 shows how
the iconic status of the government hunter was inspired by the writing
of Barry Crump and others. The role of the hut in all this is not often
explicitly acknowledged but it certainly provided one of the ‘settings’ for
the books. The hut was an ever–present stage or prop in such books.
Some hunters remember particular huts with fondness, either for particular
events, or for the scenery surrounding them, or the length of their association
with them. Huts were particularly important as bases for hunting work and
more will be gleaned on these activities in future. Huts are therefore our
Under the NZFS, hut design, like everything else, became a great deal
more organised as budgets rose and greater expertise was required.
With NZFS’s decentralised structure, the business of building huts fell
to the various conservancies. Most huts were constructed by local staff,
Dates on plans reveal that the earliest 4–bunk timber hut plan was drawn
up in 1957 and was by no means a settled design. Further plans were
produced the following year as the NZFS grappled with producing the
best design. A principal figure attributed with the production of the hut
designs was Max Cone, senior civil engineer of the engineering division
49. Annual Report of Noxious Animal Division 156–57 to the Conservator of Forests, Westland, by
S.E. Fokerd, dated 4/4/57, p. 9.
50. Pers. comm. Ashley Cunningham to Arnold Heine, 16 February 2003
51. Ibid.
26
of NZFS. Standard designs for two, four and six bunk huts were planned,
with later variations to accommodate three, five and seven bunks (even
eight at times).
The designs were settled on by 1958 and introduced in the field that year.
Initially the timbers were partly pre–cut or cut on–site, 52 although full
prefabrication had been in operation in the West Coast since the mid–
1950s. Inevitably, minor variations ensued, especially as conservancies
were given considerable latitude to do their own thing. Full prefabrication
of standard designs was still some time off. In Southland for instance,
it was not until 1964 that uniform, prefabricated huts were erected in
the conservancy. 53 The NZFS had its own sawmill, at Conical Hill, near
Tapanui, and loads were bundled and loaded at this point. Once full
prefabrication was in place, hut timbers were cut off–site, timbers and
iron numbered, bundles weighed to ensure they met payload limits, and
flown to the site.
Later some huts were built by teams which roamed the country building
all manner of structures (huts, bridges and other facilities), as well as
inspecting the worthiness of structures already built. 54
52. Plans and specifications S 81, NZFS, Wellington (DOC Hawkes Bay Area Office Microfiche
Collection). See Appendix 3
53. Pers. comm. John Von Tunzelman to the author 7 August 2002
54.
Pers. comm. P. McKelvey to A. Heine, 4 June 2002
Table 1:
Hut constructions 30
1930–1985
25
No. of
No. Built
Bunks
20
2 bunks
No. Huts
2 128
15 4 bunks
4 131
6 185 10
6 bunks
5
Fran Begley, DOC
0
30
53
56
59
62
65
68
71
74
77
80
84
19
19
19
19
19
19
19
19
19
19
19
19
Year
55. Pers. comm. John Von Tunzelman to the author 21 October 2002
56. IAD 48/10/2 pt 2 Animals Protection and Game Act – Deer destruction – Air transport –
General file re: 10/1/48 to13/1/49. Head Office Archives New Zealand, Wellington
57. Ibid.
58. Memo for the Conservator of Forests, NZFS Nelson ‘Transporting of huts and food by
helicopter’ from J. D. Corboy (field Officer). Dated 17/9/1958
28
Generally speaking, after the initial flurry of hut building in the late 1950s
and early 1960s, most conservancies built huts or bivouacs as funding
allowed, perhaps one or two huts annually in a large area e.g. a forest
park or conservation area. As time wore on, the NZFS had half an eye on
the anticipated influx of recreational users and so built more 6–bunk huts,
even though that capacity was not really required for hunting alone. 59
In establishing a hut site it was essential to meet certain criteria.
Obviously the hut had to be built where there were lots of deer and
this decision was made largely by local staff. It had to be a decent
interval (at least a couple of hours) from the nearest hut, off the river
to avoid flooding, with good access to water, the maximum sun possible,
and good firewood. It was often sensible to consult with hunters; they
knew better than anyone the best places to build huts. For instance, it
would not have made sense to build a hut on a clearing where deer fed.
Established camp sites were often the most obvious places to build.
With the reliance on local staff to draw up plans or build huts, local
variations on standard plans were entirely predictable. The 4–bunk hut
only contained one window, so frequently another was added. Four and
6–bunks had a hearth – in the form of a slab of concrete – in front of
the fire. It was only 10 cm thick and if it cracked and allowed embers
to fall through it could start a fire. In some parts of the country the
slab was poured to ground level. Some huts were fitted with features to
enhance the hunter’s comfort, perfectly understandable given how long
they were to live in them.
59. Pers. comm. John Von Tunzelman to the author 7 August 2002