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BW chocolate Talk
Fruit and Chocolate
Innovating
While Honoring
the Timelessness
Pairing various ingredients with chocolate
opens up a world of exponential flavor.
By Donald Wressell,
Executive Pastry Chef, Guittard Chocolate Company
Editorial sponsored by
A Guittard Chocolate Company
76 | Pastry ArtsYet whatever the chosen medium to create
that exponential or innovative experience, the
timeless pairing of fruit and chocolate seems
always to be just that - timeless. Having access
to a diverse array of flavors to heighten your
chosen chocolates is imperative. Fresh fruit
is one approach, though sometimes plucking
a kumquat from a tree isn't possible. As an
alternative, purées provide a canvas of flavors,
but can also take on a variety of forms in a wide
range of finished desserts, confections and
baked goods.
Integrating purees has the capacity to not
only impact flavor, but also texture in exciting
and unassuming ways. Layering textures
complements the multiple expressions of both
chocolate and purees, either solo or harmonized
in concert with one another. One may choose to
select a fruit flavor that complements the chosen
chocolates and integrate that flavor into all
components of the finished dessert. Alternatively,
deconstructing each element of a dessert allows
a different yet complementary experience to
take hold - leaning into the adage that the whole
is greater than the sum of the parts.
Take, for instance, a confectionery
application: layering in a trio of textures of
a single flavored purée can create a sense of
harmony — a common thread that wouldn't
otherwise exist. It's simply a different approach
with the same end goal, which is to deliver
that premium tasting experience in every bite.
A verrine can deliver a completely different
tasting experience, even with all the same
components but just with different purée.
Layering each piece within the verrine offers a
new way to experience each flavor - they hold
their own as a single bite, while delivering yet
again a harmonized flavor. Similarly, with ice
cream, one has the opportunity to infuse flavor
in the same layered way, however, the added
element of temperature creates something
new. Temperature almost always creates
a different expression of flavor; exploring
contrasting temperatures with selected purée
applications as well as chosen chocolate ones
can create a refreshing yet rich experience.
In Guittard’s latest collaboration, we've
partnered with our like-minded industry
friend, Les vergers Boiron, to develop a series
of recipes. Two companies, two products,
and three pastry chefs worked together to
create nine exciting recipes that celebrate the
timelessness and ability for innovation of not
only chocolate and fruit, but also craft and
sustainability.
Pastry Arts | 7Chocolate
By Josh Johnson,
Pastry Chef, Guittard Chocolate
The three layers of this bouchée come to life
through its unique combination of ingredients.
The warm chocolate and spice notes of
Guittard’s 64% L’ Etoile du Nord, and the subtle
caramel notes of the 38% Cacao Soleil d'Or
Milk Chocolate harmonize with the bold flavor
of the Boiron Cassis (blackcurrant) Purée,
giving this triple-layer confection a bright and
bold finish
Yield: forty-five 1.6" (41 mm) confections
78 | Pastry Arts
220 g granulated sugar, divided
7 g yellow pectin
85 g glucose powder
250 g Boiron Cassis Purée
62 g apple juice
57 g glucose syrup
6 ccitric acid solution, 1:1‘Combine 30 g of the granulated sugar with
the pectin, mixing very well. Set aside.
Combine the remaining 190 g granulated
sugar with the glucose powder and set aside.
Combine the Boiron Cassis Purée with the
apple juice. Warm the mixture, sprinkle in
pectin mixture and whisk well. Bring the
mixture to a boil, add sugar-glucose mixture
and the glucose syrup, whisk, and return to
a boil. Cook to 225°F (107°C), then whisk in
citric acid solution.
Cast the mixture into 1/8” thick frame and
allow to cool. When cool, cut circles to ft
bonbon cavities.
CASSIS MARSHMALLOW
7 g gelatin sheets
28 g water
7 g lemon juice
70 g trimoline, divided
57 g cassis purée
13.5 g apple juice
100 g granulated sugar
1.75 g citric acid solution, 1:1
Bloom the gelatin with the water and lemon
juice.
‘Once the gelatin is bloomed, place it in a
5-qt mixing bow! with 35 g of the trimoline.
Set aside
Combine the cassis purée, apple juice, sugar,
citric acid solution and the remaining 35 g
trimoline and cook to 230°F (110°C). Add to
the gelatin mixture in the mixing bowl and,
using the whisk attachment, whip on high
speed. When volume is achieved, switch
to medium speed until mixture reaches
86°F (30°C). Remove from mixer and pipe
into precast chocolate shells, filling them
1/3 full. Press disc of pate de fruit into the
marshmallow layer.
CASSIS GANACHE
77 g Boiron Cassis Purée
© 1gcitric acid powder
* 45 g heavy cream
10 g granulated sugar
* 14g powdered glucose
93 g 64% Cacao L'Etoile du Nord
* 24 g 38% Cacao Soleil d'Or Milk Chocolate
10 g unsalted butter, room temperature
. Combine the Boiron Cassis Purée, the
citric acid powder, heavy cream, sugar
and powdered glucose. Heat to a simmer.
Pour over the chocolate; allow to rest for 2
minutes. Stir to emulsify.
. At 100°F (38°C), add the room temperature
butter and emulsify well with an immersion
blender. At 90°F (32°C), cast into the
marshmallow filled shell, leaving room for a
final cap.
xv38% Soleil d’Or Earl
Grey Ice Cream and
Bergamot Sorbet Pop
By Donald Wressell,
Executive Pastry Chef, Guittard Chocolate
\is ice cream pairs subtle caramel and fresh
dairy notes of Guittard's 38% Cacao Soleil d'Or
Milk Chocolate together with an infusion of
rich, bold Earl Grey tea. Those two flavors are
further complemented by bergamot sorbet,
creating a fragrant and refreshing finish
Yield: about 20-22 pops
80 | Pastry Arts
BERGAMOT SORBET
3.75 g stabilizer
187 g granulated sugar, divided
487 g water
44 g glucose powder
5g invert sugar
250 g Boiron Bergamot Purée. Mix stabilizer with about 25% of the sugar.
In a saucepan, heat the water, remaining
sugar, glucose powder and invert sugar
to 104°F (40°C). Rain in stabilizer mix.
Refrigerate for 4-12 hours,
. Using immersion blender, blend base with
puree. Process in batch freezer.
38% SOLEIL D'OR EARL
GREY ICE CREAM
4g stabilizer
50 g granulated sugar, divided
600 g water
12g Earl Grey tea leaves
33 g non-fat milk powder
10 g whey protein 80%
20 g egg yolks
98 g invert sugar
185 g Guittard 38% Cacao Soleil d'Or Milk
Chocolate
. Mix stabilizer with 25% of the sugar.
. In saucepan, heat water to the boil, add the
tea leaves, cover and infuse for 15 minutes.
Strain and adjust with water to 600 g.
. Bring tea infusion, remaining granulated
sugar, milk powder, whey protein, egg yolks
and invert sugar to 104°F (40°C). Rain in
stabilizer. At 140°F (60°C), add chocolate
and cook to 185°F (85°C). Cool rapidly and
refrigerate for 4-12 hours.
. Mix with immersion blender and process in
batch freezer.
MILK CHOCOLATE DIP
500 g Guittard 38% Soleil d'Or Milk
Chocolate
500 g cocoa butter
. Heat the chocolate and cocoa butter to
120°F (48°C). Cool to 97°F (36°C).
ASSEMBLY
. Mold sorbet in a Flexipan small hemisphere
mold. Blast freeze.
. Unmold and pipe Milk Chocolate Ice Cream
into pop mold. Press sorbet randomly into
mold. Strike clean with a palette knife. Blast
freeze.
. Unmold and dip in Milk Chocolate Dip at
10°F (-23°C). Garnish as desired.Raspberry,
White
Chocolate
& Vanilla
Verrine
By Michael Laiskonis
Served as an elegant plated dessert,
or scaled-down to a pre-dessert, this
verrine shows off multiple expressions
of Boiron’s Raspberry Purée. Guittard’s
Créme Francaise 31% White Chocolate
adds depth and a creamy counterpoint.
Yield: 10 verrines
82 | Pastry Arts
RASPBERRY GELEE
225 g Boiron Raspberry Purée
75 g fresh raspberries
1.5 gelatin sheets, bloomed
50 g invert sugar
Combine the raspberry purée and fresh
raspberries in a saucepan. Gently bring to a
simmer and remove from heat.
. Whisk in the gelatin and invert sugar. Deposit
the mixture to verrine glasses and freeze to set.RASPBERRY WHITE
CHOCOLATE CREMEUX
75 g whole milk
75 g heavy cream (36% fat)
40 g glucose syrup
3 gelatin sheets, bloomed
75 g Guittard Créme Francaise 31% White
Couverture Chocolate, chopped
300 g Boiron Raspberry Purée
Combine the milk, cream and glucose in a
saucepan and bring to a simmer. Remove
from heat and stir in the bloomed gelatin.
Whisk in the white chocolate and raspberry
purée.
. Emulsify thoroughly with an immersion
blender. Deposit a layer of the cremeux into
vertine glasses and chill to set.
VANILLA PARFAIT
150 g whole milk
210 g heavy cream (36% fat), divided
80 g granulated sugar
% vanilla bean, split and scraped
2g lemon zest
80 g egg yolks, beaten
4 gelatin sheets, bloomed
‘Combine the milk, 50 g of the heavy cream,
the sugar, vanilla bean and lemon zest in a
‘small saucepan. Bring just to a boil. Remove
the pan from the heat and slowly whisk in
the egg yolks. Return to heat and cook to
185°F (85°C). Add the bloomed gelatin,
strain, and allow to cool to 86°F (30°C).
. Whip the remaining 160 g cream and gently
fold it into the cooled base.
Deposit a layer of the mousse into verrine
glasses and chill.
ASSEMBLY
Fresh raspberries
Pistachio nuts
Confectioners’ sugar
White chocolate décor
Edible gold leat
. Allow the verrines to temper under
refrigeration and garnish with raspberries,
pistachio nuts, confectioners’ sugar, white
chocolate décor and gold leaf.
Pastry Arts | 83