6081 S. Martin Luther King Blvd.

Lansing, MI 48911
Phone: 517-393-2421
Fax: 517-393-0632
QUALITY OFF-ROAD MOTORCYCLE PRODUCTS www.enduroeng.com

Off-road Suspension Tuning Guide

We feel that understanding the basic suspension tuning can give you an advantage over your
competition, or simply make your riding experience much better. For this reason Enduro Engineering
has included a summary of basic suspension tuning and common problems experienced while setting
up your bike for different terrain and riding conditions.

Getting started:
Your suspension should have relatively close settings when it arrives at your
door! However, there are minor differences in riders from day to day; this
unpredictable difference requires set-up by the customer.
This should also help get you in the ballpark if you’re
using stock suspension. If you are having trouble
dialing in your re-valved suspension,
contact Enduro Engineering
immediately for
assistance.

Remember:
Different conditions
require slightly altered
settings. If you happen
to run into any set-up
problems, you can call
us for any help.
 Off-road Suspension Tuning Guide

Setting Sag
Static sag for shock:
These next two steps are the MOST IMPORTANT
to get the most out of your KTM’S suspension. For
this measurement you will start with the bike on
a center stand so both wheels are suspended. We
have found that it is best to do this after you have
ridden the bike and have the shock warm. Find a
spot from the center of the rear axle up to the rear
fender and measure these two points. (FIG 1) Write FIG 2 FIG 3 FIG 4
that number down. Now set the bike on the ground
push up and down on the bike a few times
to settle the bike (rider not on the bike) take another
measurement from the same spot. Now take these
two measurements and subtract the bike on the
stand number from the bike on the ground number
and the difference should be this measurement
35-40mm ( 1-3/8” to 1-5/8 ) for KTM
/ Husaberg, if your bike has linkage it should be
30-35mm (1-3/16” to 1-7/8”). If not you will need
to adjust the spring tension. On a KTM / Husaberg
you do this by loosening the pinch bolt on the
shock collar (FIG 2) Enduro Engineering builds a
special tool that make this job much easier (FIG 3).
For bikes with linkage you will need to loosen the
locking collar (FIG 4) then increase the spring
preload by tightening (clockwise) the shock collar or
decrease the spring pre-load by loosening (counter
clockwise) the shock collar to get the proper
measurement.

Race sag:
This measurement is taken to determine if you
have the proper spring rate for your weight and
must be done after setting static sag. With your
riding gear on sit on the bike in your riding position.
The measurement on a KTM/ Husaberg should be
105-115mm (4-3/16 to 4-9/16) and if your bike
has linkage it should be 100-110mm (3-15/16” to
4-5/16”) of total sag. (You get this measurement
by subtracting rider on the bike measurement from
the bike on the center stand measurement). If
the number is less than the listed measurements
the spring is too stiff. If it is greater than the listed
measurements the spring is too soft.
FIG 1
 Off-road Suspension Tuning Guide

Shock
Setting the rebound:
1) Find a relatively fast trail with braking bumps, rocks or roots leading into the entrance of a corner. Reduce the rebound damping by turning the
rebound adjuster (bottom adjuster on shock) counter clockwise until the rear end begins to hop or feel loose. Then turn the adjuster back in clockwise
a few clicks to increase the rebound damping until the sensation goes away.

2) Find a log or ledge that tends to bounce the motorcycle after hitting it. If the rear end bounces up uncontrollably, make sure that the static sag is
correct. If the static sag is correct, turn the compression (top) adjuster counter clock wise 3 clicks and turn the rebound adjuster in (clockwise) 3 clicks.

3) Find some large whoops. The motorcycle should track straight through the whoops with the rear wheel extending to the ground before the next
impact. If it does not perform as described, as above, it is packing and the rebound dampening should be reduced! (Turn clicker out) (Please go to the
section for sand set-up, as these rules don’t apply for sand.)

4) Find a corner with acceleration bumps, rocks, or roots on the exit. The rear of the motorcycle should follow the ground. If the rear end “breaks up”,
reduce the rebound. (Turn clicker out) (If this fails soften the compression two clicks.) (Turn clicker out)

Setting the compression:

1) Find some rough sections, a large jump or a couple of “G-Outs”. The shock should bottom on the roughest section
but it should not be a slamming sensation. Add compression to reduce bottoming. (Turn clicker in.) But avoid
going too far as the suspension’s ability to react to small variations of surface and rocks will be
sacrificed in the trade. Remember the adjusters have a primary effect on the low speed, so
even a large change in setting may only affect bottoming resistance slightly.
Remember bottoming your suspension is not necessarily a bad
thing. You should strive to bottom off the biggest bottoming
load obstacle on the trail. If you don’t you are not getting
maximum plushness from your suspension. Run your
suspension as soft as you can get away with but
remember that if the trail has sand
sections or lots of g-outs this
will work against you.
 Off-road Suspension Tuning Guide

Fork Guidelines for different conditions:

Installing your forks: For hard-pack to intermediate:
Set the compression softer, (Turn clicker out) front and rear to help get
This is the most common mistake that we
maximum wheel contact and plushness.
see made, improper installation of the forks.
Sand conditions:
You need to make sure that your fork tubes (Non-square edged bumps); More low speed compression and rebound are
are not in a bind. There are many ways that necessary. Start by adding 1-2 clicks (Turn clicker in.) of rebound and as the
are used to do this and they may all work but track gets rough, add compression 1-4 clicks. (Turn clicker in. Harshness is a
here at E.E. this is what we have found that result of packing in forks. Remember to add compression (Turn clicker in) to
works best. First slide the fork tubes into the help keep the front end from packing The rear suspension will exhibit packing
clamps. Make sure you have the pinch bolts FIG 1 by swapping. To eliminate swapping begin adding compression (Turn clicker
loose, the tubes should slide in easily (if they in) until the bike tracks straight and then add rebound (Turn clicker in) to
do not make sure that you do not have a keep the rear following the terrain of each whoop.
damaged or bent clamp) after sliding the fork Rocks and Roots:
tubes into the clamp set the fork height that Rocks and roots will make your suspension work at its worst. Try
you want (FIG 1) now using a torque wrench reducing compression and rebound so the suspension can react and not
tighten pinch bolts to proper settings (see deflect off every impact.
manual) your clamps have two or three bolts
move from one bolt to the next until all are Unpleasantries?
at the proper torque setting. Now it’s time to FIG 2 Head shake:
install the wheel, make sure your axel is clean Adjust the forks lower in the triple clamps. If that does not improve the
and has a light coating of lube. Slide the axle in, this is where we need suspension then reduce the rebound on the front fork. (Turn out)
to make sure we do not have the forks in a bind. Using a screw driver we Excessive rear end kick:
need to spread the pinch bolts (FIG 2) this allows the fork leg to move Check for packing, which is identified by kick to side in hard to loam conditions.
freely on the axel to make sure we have proper alignment. Now tighten If you observe packing, soften rebound. (Turn clicker out.) This can not be
avoided if you brake improperly and lock the rear wheel up and/or pull in the
pinch bolts per your owner’s manual.
clutch, on the entrance to corners. Keep a record of the conditions and the
different settings if you ride in different areas. That way you can start at a point
Setting the compression: that worked well the previous times.
1) The forks should react to all trail variations. If the forks seem harsh on
small bumps, holes, rocks, or roots soften the compression. (Turn clicker General Ideas:
out) If they are relatively smooth, stiffen (Turn clicker in.) until they do feel Remember that if you make the suspension too soft you will use lots of energy
harsh and then turn back a click or two. just maintaining direction, and control. Be careful when you set it, there is a
difference between soft and plush. Soft is often hard to control and harsh, while
2) Now find the rough part of the trail again. The forks should bottom over plush is smooth and controlled. The goal is to maximize control and comfort.
the worst g-out or jump. Think about the entire section of trail or the average conditions of the trail.
Factor in your skills as a rider and then select the setting that will provide
Setting the rebound: the best overall ride characteristics. Consider that in off road riding you will
The rebound damping is responsible for the stability and the cornering encounter an incredibly wide range of conditions and you’ll need to shoot for
characteristics of the motorcycle. the middle ground or your suspension will be very good in some sections and
average in others.
1) Find a short sweeper. When the forks compress for the turn, the speed at
Maintenance:
which the forks return is the energy that pushes your front wheel into the
The dampening of suspension changes as the components are used. This is
ground. If the forks rebound too quickly, the energy will be used up and the caused by wear and oil viscosity breakdown. It is important that your suspension
bike will drift wide, or wash. If the rebound is too slow, the bike will tuck has regular maintenance. Improper assembly or inadequate fluids will drastically
under and turn too soon to the inside. alter the way these components were designed to perform.
The shock’s oil should be changed every 3-6 months under heavy usage.
2) With the bike turning well, the wheel should return to the ground quickly Seals will generally last a season, so once a year we recommend replacing them.
and not deflect off successive impacts. If it does, reduce the For the forks, we recommend that you bleed off the air pressure before each
rebound. (Turn out) ride. A complete service is suggested every 6-8 months depending on how much
sand you ride in. Don’t wash anywhere around your seals with power washer
(including the chrome.) Also we do not recommend removing dust scraper for
internal cleaning. This typically frees up dirt caught in the scraper, which will
attack the oil seal.