Chapter 9

Cutting Section
9.1 Cutting
Cutting fabrics for garment orders and providing cuttings for the sewing department are the
responsibilities of the cutting department. The daily feeding requirements of the sewing lines are
used to plan the cutting department's capacity. The cutting department is staffed by a cutting
department head, cutters, spreaders, quality inspectors for cut pieces, and assistants for bundling,
sorting, and ply numbering.

9.2 Flow chart for Cutting Section

PO Sheet

Pattern Receive

Marker Making

Fabric Receive

Fabric Spreading

Marker Placing

Cutting

Sorting

Numbering & Checking

Bundling

Input for Sewing

9.3 Computer Aided Design (CAD)

Computer aided design (CAD) is the use of computer technology for the design of objects, real
or virtual. CAD often involves more than just shapes. As the manual drafting of technical and
engineering drawings, the output of CAD must convey information, such as materials, processes,
dimensions and tolerances, according to application- specific conventions.
CAD may be used to design curves and figures in two-dimensional (2D) space, or curve, surface
and solids in three dimensional (3D) objects. CAD is an important industrial art extensively used
in many applications, including automotive, shipbuilding and aerospace industries, industrial and
architectural design, prosthetics and many more. CAD is also widely used to produce computer
animation for special effects in movies, advertising and technical manuals. The modern ubiquity
and power of computers means that even perfume bottles and shampoo dispensers are designed
using techniques unheard of by engineers of the 1960s. Because of its enormous economic
importance, CAD has been a major driving force for research in computational geometry,
computer graphics (both hard ware and software), and discrete differential geometry.

9.4 Pattern Making

Patterns are the building block of a garment. Without them, constructing garments would be
impossible. Patterns help convert a flat, two dimensional cloths into a shapely, three dimensional
garment. Thus, making patterns would require skill and a sound knowledge of different shapes
and sizes.

Pattern making and cutting m/c

Quantity: 1
Tetra Technology Ltd.
Origin: China

9.5 Marker Making

In FAL marker is made both manual system & automatic system. In computer-aided marker FAL
uses Optitex/Jeminin software. In the manual marker-making process, marker man use pattern
paper to draw different garments parts on marker paper.
Types of Maker
 Single garment marker
  Single size two or more garment marker
 Ratio marker
They use Ratio Marker

Marker making m/c

Quantity: 2
Tetra Technology Ltd.
Origin: China

9.6 Spreading
Factors of spreading:
 Fabric direction:
 Before spreading the direction of the fabric has to be right. The direction could be top to
bottom or bottom to top. It especially matters where the fabric is like velvet or the fabric
shines like shiny fabric. If the fabric is cut in two different directions, then the garment
can have two different looks on the right reflection.
 Alignment:
The alignment is an important factor for spreading. The lay of fabric should be closed by
clamp or attached by spick to maintain the alignment point to point. The grain line of the
fabric should be considered.
 Matching checks and strips:
If checked and stripe of a fabric are not matched it could be the cause of rejection of the
garments. Before cutting it has to be made sure that the checked and stripes of cut panel
are checked and matched.
Techniques of Spreading:
 Face to face or back to back.
Alternative piles in different directions.
 Face to back
Alternative piles in different directions.
  Face-to-back or back to face
All piles are in the same direction.
 Face-to-face and back-to-back

Fabric Spreading m/c

Quantity: 3
Model: Bullmer(KW2000S-21)
Origin: China

9.7 Types of Cutting Machine

There are three types of cutting machines.
▪ Manual:
 Die cutting
 Drill cutting
 Hand operate cutting scissors
▪ Manually operated power knife
 Straight knife cutting m/c
 Round knife cutting m/c
 Band knife cutting m/c
▪ Computerized cutting
 Knife
 Water jet
 Laser
 Plasma torch
In Zaheen Knitwear’s Ltd. use straight knife cutting m/c.
9.7.1 Straight Knife Cutting m/c
This is designed with a low center of gravity for ease of handling and features the best power-to-
gravity weight ratio in the industry. It is designed for maximum productivity and minimum
fatigue. The XD-629 is the obvious choice when one machine is required to perform many roles.
It is suitable for cutting most light to medium weight fabric & woven fabric.

Straight Knife Cutting m/c

Quantity: 20
Model: Mack
Origin: Japan

9.7.2 Bulk cutting:

 Lay-wise man power requirements must be planned.
 Cutters must be trained in the methods of accurate cutting, especially for parts with deep
curves. If possible diagrammatic representation of the direction of movement of the cutter
needs to be illustrated.
 Cutters shall inspect the cutting machine for oil leakage, straightness of the blade,
sharpening quality, evenness in sharping of the blade, and dust accumulation before
cutting.
 Cutters shall cut lay as per the mark-up using a straight knife m/c and move the parts to a
band knife as per the discussion in the PP meeting.
 QC shall inspect all the cut parts using patterns and initiate corrective action upon the
detection of the defect.
 Prepare 1st cut bundle report; notify fabric defects and cutting defects to FM/PM.
 QC should have a cutting checklist against which 1 st bundle audit has to be conducted.
The checklist should have details of allowances, tolerance included in pattern, notches,
and embellishments placement marking details.
 The size of the straight knife for cutting lightweight fabrics should be 6” only.
 Straight knife must be uniformly sharpened from top to bottom as frequently required.
This ensures even sharpening along the full length of the knife/blade.
  For band knife cutting, patterns preferably made of tin should be used.
 The patterns used for the band knife must be charged regularly upon monitoring the wear
and tear on the pattern, due to frequent usage.

9.7.3 Bundling
Bundling is bundling the cut fabric. It is done to minimize size differences, avoid mixing up with
different buyer’s orders, to check for measurement. Bundling cars is used in bundling.

9.7.4 Bundle Card

The bundled card is most important in the garments sections. In export qualify garments any type
of shading and size mistake is not accepted, so it is used. Because buyers cannot accept any types
of shading and size mistake garments.

9.8 Numbering
The number given to the cut pieces of a garment are numbering. Numbering is the last
checkpoint to prevent shading. It helps to make a garment from ply. That means every part of a
garment comes from an individual ply. Like the sleeve will be attached with 25 front and back,
each part of the garment will be known as 25.
Numbering could be done by sticker machine or pen, usually on the seam allowance. Sometimes
extra fabric is kept over the seam allowance when cutting.
Numbering is done on the paper by machine. So the ink of the machine is not spread on the
garment.

Number Counting m/c

Quantity: 5
Model: Blitz
Origin: Italy
 Chapter 10
Sewing Section
10.1 Sewing Section
After receiving the garment components from the cutting section, all the garment parts are joined
and sewn as sequentially. Obviously, all the components are sewn with respect to buyer
requirements. So, the sewing section is the most important department of the garment
manufacturing industry. Sewing machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to
assemble the garments. The sequence of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on
sequence of assembling operations.

10.2 Floor Layout of Sewing Sections

10.3 Working Procedure of Sewing Department
Garment analysis
↓
Target setup for production (on the basis of ship schedule)
↓
Machine lay out
↓
Operator lay out
↓
Quality control of product
↓
Line balancing
↓
Line setup
↓
Process distribution
↓
Parts received from cutting dept.
↓
Parts storing
↓
Parts distribution to the operator and helper
↓
Position mark to components where required
↓
Parts making (individual)
↓
Inline quality checking
↓
Parts assembling
↓
Inline quality audit
↓
Output counting & checking with the target
↓
End-line quality audit

10.4 Sewing m/c types

There are 2 types of sewing machine
1. Manually operated sewing machine
2. Electrically operated sewing machine
But in ZKL use only electrically operated sewing machines.
10.5 Machine Specification
10.5.1 Single needle Lock Stitch machine

Brand Name: JUKI

Country of Origin: Japan

Number of Threads: 02

Purpose: Stitching

Capacity: Approx. 1200/day

10.5.2 Thread Over Lock Machine

Brand Name: JUKI

Model: MO-6714D

Country of Origin: Japan

Number of Threads: 04

Purpose: Securing fabric edge

Capacity: Approx. 800/day

10.5.3 3 Thread Flat Lock Machine

Brand Name: JUKI

Model: MF-7923

Country of Origin: Japan

Number of Threads: 03

Purpose: Hemming Sleeve and Bottom of the

garment
Capacity: Approx. 1000/day

10.5.4 Feed off the Arm Machine

Brand Name: Zusun

Model: CM-928-PL
Country of Origin: India
Type of Stitch: Chain stitch
Purpose: joining lace.
Capacity: Approx. 200 pcs/Hour

10.5.5 Bar Tack Machine

Brand Name: JUKI

Model: LK-1900A-SS

Country of Origin: Japan

Number of Threads: 03

Purpose: Dense lock stitch in short length.

Capacity: Approx. 1000/day

10.5.6 Button Hole Machine (B/H)

Brand: JUKI
Origin: Japan

Model: LBH-1790A-S

Purpose: Creating hole for buttons

10.5.7 Button Attaching Machine (B/A)

Brand: JUKI

Model: LK-1903B-SS

Country of Origin: Japan

Purpose: Attaching button

10.5.8 Snap Button Attaching Machine

Brand: Nisho
Model: NH-SB-47F
Country of Origin: Singapore
Purpose: Attaching snap button

10.6 Basic Operation of a T-Shirt

Process name Machine Operator Helper
Shoulder Joining Overlock 2 1
Rib tack Plain machine 1 --
Neck join Over lock 1 1
Label Attach Plain machine 1 --
Neck top sewing Flat lock 1 1
Back neck piping Feed of the arm 1 2
Sleeve matching with a bundle -- -- 1
Sleeve join Overlock 2 1
Sideband tuck Plain machine 3 1
Sideband attach Plain machine 2 1
3 Label attached Plain machine 1 --
Side join Over lock 4 1
Cuff make Plain machine 1 2
Cuff join Over lock 2 1
Bottom lose sewing Plain machine 2 1
Bottom hem Flat lock 3 3
Quality check -- -- 5
Body sucker Sucker machine -- 1
Body receive -- -- 1
10.7 Quality Control in Sewing Section
Input material checking
↓
Cut panel and accessories checking
↓
The machine is in good condition
↓
Thread count check
↓
Special work like embroidery, printing panel check
↓
Needle size checking
↓
Stitching fault should be checked
↓
Garments measurement check
↓
Seam fault check
↓
Size mistake check
↓
Mismatching matching of trimming
↓
Shade variation within the cloth
↓
Wrong placement of interlining
↓
Creased or wrinkle appearance control
 Chapter 11
Finishing Section
11.1 Finishing Section
Garments finishing is an important section in the readymade garments sector. It’s the last section
of the garments manufacturing department. As with all the other sections of garment
manufacturing, the garments finishing section has also followed a process flow chart.
11.2 Finishing Section Floor Layout

11.3 Finishing Flow Chart

11.4 Machinery

Machine Quantity Brand Origin

Thread Sucking m/c 5 Nisho Singapore
Metal Detector m/c 2 Hasima Japan
Fusing m/c 2 Hasima Japan
Ironing m/c 75 Goldstar China
Tag Gun m/c 10 Saga China