Practical Cookery 13th - Complete Edition
Practical Cookery 13th - Complete Edition
Cookery
for Level 2
NVQs and
apprenticeships
13TH
edition
iii
6 Eggs 105
The structure of eggs................................................................................................................................................................................................................105
Types of eggs................................................................................................................................................................................................................................106
Purchasing and quality points..............................................................................................................................................................................................106
Preparing and cooking eggs................................................................................................................................................................................................106
Storing eggs................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 107
iv
Refer to the ‘Preparing for assessment’ section on page viii cooking methods or presentation, finishing and serving
for more guidance on assessment and how this book can styles that could be used.
help you to prepare. Practical Cookery 13th edition
Baking Boiling Stewing 3 Carefully empty out the seeds without damaging
the flesh.
4 Place on a greased baking tray.
5 Cook the shallots in a little butter or oil without
colour.
Deep frying Shallow frying 6 Add the washed chopped mushrooms; season
with salt and pepper; add the garlic if using. Cook
for 2–3 minutes.
7 Add a little of the strained tomato juice, the
Cut out the eye of the tomato Slice off the top and remove the seeds Pipe in the filling and then replace the top
from inside
396
vi
Foreword
vii
Preparing for
assessment
Chefs are assessed regularly in many different ways: each This book has been designed to support chefs working in
meal that is served is evaluated by the customer, who will a range of professional cookery training and development
consider many things about their meal experience and programmes, but is specifically designed for those
often provide feedback. completing the Level 2 NVQ Diploma in Food Production
and Cooking or the Level 2 NVQ Diploma in Professional
To continue to develop skills and knowledge, a programme
Cookery, and those working towards Intermediate Level
of training and development should be set up to meet the
Apprenticeships.
requirements of the individual as well as to support the
organisation in which they work; this can be scheduled for
both ‘on the job’ and/or ‘off the job’. Apprenticeships
The apprenticeship programme is a prestigious learning
On-the-job training and development programme, valued by employers,
trade associations and professional bodies in the industry.
On-the-job training is development that takes place
Intermediate Level Apprentices will train as Kitchen
within the normal workplace and covers things like an
Assistants, Cooks and Chefs in large-volume, fine or casual
induction phase, health and safety information about the
dining settings or in a range of cuisines, including Craft,
use of equipment, or skills development to enable chefs to
Asian and Oriental cuisine. Advanced Level Apprentices will
produce dishes on the menu. It could include a short time
train as Sous/Senior Chefs, working in fine or casual dining
shadowing or working alongside another chef to learn
settings, as Pastry Chefs or as Sous/Senior Chefs in Craft
a skill.
Cuisine.
viii
ix
How you can prepare for l Correct craft skills – these should be appropriate for the
dish. You will be assessed on your knife skills, the ease of
assessment the technique used and the consistency of skills shown.
l Correct use of equipment – use the correct tools or
Regardless of the programme you are completing, prior
equipment safely and correctly to complete tasks. This
planning and preparation is most important to enable you
will include the use of pans and could include energy.
to achieve the maximum from any assessment. You cannot
Do you really need to have the grill on 120 minutes
beat the feeling of receiving the highest mark possible or
before you glaze a fish dish?
gaining praise from a customer. To do that you will have to
l Work methods – ensure you work in a logical and
work in a methodical manner, be prepared to practise and
organised manner, using appropriate time and
listen to feedback, as well as personally reflecting on what
temperature controls for food items. ‘Clean as You Go’
you have completed.
is the mantra used across kitchens. Be aware of cross-
1 Read the instructions or brief that is given to you; make
contamination threats to your dishes.
sure you understand what you have to do. This includes
the criteria you will judged or assessed on, which could
include use of equipment, professional standards, use Culinary practice and finished
of materials, skills and techniques to be covered, time
allowed, and any preparations that can be completed
dishes
before the test starts. ‘Culinary practice’ covers the selection of ingredients,
2 Carry out any research, find or develop your recipes and choice of cooking methods and techniques, and application
consider which ingredients and skills you will need to of knowledge and skills to an appropriate level for the
include within the test. assessment. The checking of the finished dish will cover
3 Prepare and plan your time; this could include some presentation, portioning, flavour, texture, seasoning and of
practice time for competitions, as well as a time plan for course cooking. Things to consider:
l Use of food items – have you selected ingredients that
the actual assessment. This plan isn’t only for the day
itself but includes how you may prepare before the test balance in terms of texture, colour and flavours within
date. the overall dish? In some settings, you may also be
4 Prepare a list of equipment you will require to complete asked to consider seasonality as part of the assessment.
l Techniques or skills – preparation of ingredients should
the task; make sure you have what you need. It may be
helpful to check whether there is time to set out your be completed in a logical sequence and with an
work station before the assessment takes place. understanding and awareness of portion sizes or waste
from trimming and peeling.
On the day of assessment you should arrive at the l Cooking methods – the correct use of these for the dish
assessment centre in plenty of time. requirements and ingredients will be assessed. You will
Use this book to help develop your knowledge and need to consider the use of time and temperature to
experience. ensure that dishes are cooked correctly and ready for
the target service time.
l Monitoring cooking process – this includes tasting and
Professional practice evaluating elements of the dish prior to finishing; this
‘Professional practice’ covers what you do while producing will cover consistency and will enable you to correct the
your dishes. Whether for a practical test or an assessment, balance of the dish through the process.
the mentors or assessors will be looking at how you l Presentation – the final stage of any practical
conduct yourself in the kitchen area. Things to consider: assessment is how the dish is finished to present to
l Personal hygiene and turnout – this includes your dress. the potential customer; this is an opportunity to show
Make sure your whites are clean and pressed. Personal final flair and creativity as a chef, and includes how you
hygiene standards cover things like jewellery, hair and garnish and finish the dish. Make sure you don’t allow
nails. Make sure that you are seen washing your hands the food to go cold while trying to get it on the plate.
as required.
Acknowledgements
xi
Conversion tables
In this book, metric weights and measures are used. All
temperatures are given in degrees Celsius.
xii
Every day people are injured at work; some of the injuries According to the Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) at
may be serious, disabling or even fatal. It is therefore Work Regulations, 1992, employees must wear personal
important to always work professionally in a healthy, safe protective clothing/equipment suitable for the work they
and hygienic way. Safety awareness will help to keep are involved in. For example, chefs wear protective chef’s
yourself and others that work with you safe. It is also very whites, but may add gauntlet gloves and eye goggles
important to provide a safe environment for customers and if cleaning an oven. See page 19 for more on protective
visitors. clothing.
You must always follow the health and safety procedures
that your employer has put in place when you are working; A hygienic, safe and
you should not interfere with safety equipment and you
must report anything you consider to be a possible hazard. secure workplace
Responsibilities under the Health
Personal health and and Safety at Work Act
hygiene The Health and Safety Executive (HSE) is responsible
for enforcing health and safety in the workplace. It has
All humans are a potential source of food contamination
the power to investigate premises; check, dismantle and
and everyone working with food must be aware of the
remove equipment; inspect the records; ask questions;
importance of high standards of appearance and personal
and seize and destroy articles. The HSE can give verbal or
hygiene. As well as the important role this plays in avoiding
written advice, order improvement and issue prohibition
food contamination, it will reflect the professionalism of the
notices, and will prosecute, if necessary, which can result in
individual as well as the establishment they work for, giving
unlimited fines or even imprisonment.
a positive impression to customers and guests.
Everyone working in a kitchen needs to know the laws
Details on maintaining personal cleanliness, health and
on health and safety, and how they are affected by these
hygiene can be found on page 19 in Chapter 3 Maintain
laws. The Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 gives
food safety. It covers the importance of maintaining good
employees and employers certain responsibilities that they
personal hygiene including: wearing smart and appropriate
must adhere to within their working environment:
clothing, footwear and head coverings; keeping hair
l All employees and employers must take reasonable care
neat and tidy; rules concerning jewellery and cosmetics;
of their own safety and the safety of others they work
and dealing with cuts, grazes, burns and other wounds.
with.
Information is also included on the importance of reporting
l Employees must inform their line manager/supervisor if
any illness or infections to the appropriate person before
they see anything they think is unsafe and could cause
you go near any food – this is a legal requirement.
an accident.
l Any procedure, equipment or protective clothing put
Personal protective equipment in place for safety must be used correctly and never be
(PPE) modified or tampered with.
l Employees must co-operate with their employer on
Protective clothing is worn to protect food from
health and safety matters and procedures put in place
contamination by food handlers and to protect the wearer
to keep the working environment safe.
from such things as excessive heat, burns and sharp objects.
Employers must also ensure that all staff are safe at work l fires and explosions
and not put staff in dangerous situations where they l electric shocks
could injure themselves or others. They must provide safe l not wearing suitable protective clothing or not wearing
methods of work for their employees. This includes: it properly
l producing a workplace policy document on health and l incidents due to poor lighting
safety l ignoring or abusing the rules put in place for health and
l completing risk assessments for all equipment and safety.
procedures in the workplace It is now a legal requirement for all employers to carry out
l providing safe equipment and utensils
risk assessments for all of the procedures completed in
l training and supervising staff in safe practices
the workplace. The risk assessment must also record the
l providing first-aid equipment
measures in place to keep employees safe and to avoid
l keeping an accurate record of all accidents.
risk of injury, ill health or harm. Health and safety legislation
The Health and Safety Information for Employees covers everyone in the premises, including full- and part-
Regulations (1989) also require that employers provide time employees, agency staff, contractors, voluntary
health and safety information for their employees. This could workers and those on work placement, as well as customers
be in the form of leaflets, posters, DVDs and information and guests.
packs. A selection of these is available from the HSE.
Slips, trips and falls
Finding information about health The majority of accidents in kitchens are slips, trips and falls.
Therefore, floor surfaces must be of a suitable construction
and safety to reduce this risk. A major cause of this kind of accident is
Information relating to health and safety in your workplace spilt water and grease, which can make the floor surface
can be obtained in a number of ways. It can be available slippery. For this reason any spillage must be cleaned
through: immediately and warning notices put in place, where
l induction training, staff training, staff handover and appropriate, highlighting the danger. Verbal warnings
briefing sessions should also be given.
l posters, booklets, leaflets and signs around the
Falls can also be caused when items are left on floors and
workplace
in passageways or between stoves and tables. People
l line managers, head chefs and supervisors
carrying trays and containers may have a restricted view
l health and safety representatives and managers, and
and may not see hazards and so can trip over them. They
human resources departments.
may fall on to a hot stove, on to a sharp item, or the item
they are carrying may be hot. These falls can have severe
Hazards in the workplace consequences. Ensure that nothing is left on the floor that
There can be a number of inherent hazards when working may cause an obstruction and be a hazard. If it is necessary
in kitchen areas. For this reason, it is important to work in a to have articles on the floor temporarily, they should be
safe and systematic way in order to avoid accidents or injury guarded to prevent accidents.
to yourself or anyone else. Kitchen personnel should be trained to think and act in a
The following are some common causes of accidents in the safe manner so as to avoid this kind of accident.
kitchen: If you become aware of a hazard or potential hazard in your
l slipping on a wet or greasy floor working area, it is important to assess the situation and
l tripping over objects or walking into objects decide if it is something that you can deal with yourself or
l lifting objects wrongly or lifting loads that are too heavy if it needs to be reported to someone else, or maybe both
l being exposed to hazards such as hot or dangerous (see below). Do not ignore hazards: they may have the
substances, for example steam or oven-cleaning potential to cause serious injury. It is essential that you do
chemicals one or more of the following to minimise risk:
l being hit or hurt by moving objects, such as being cut l Deal with the hazard yourself where it is safe to do so;
by a knife when chopping an example of this would be dealing with a wet floor
l injury from machines such as vegetable-cutting and putting up the appropriate signs.
machines, liquidisers and mincing machines
l Warn others of the hazard verbally, for example warning Red signs – prohibition or fire-fighting signs
of the wet floor before you have dealt with it. Make sure Red signs tell people that they should not enter and are to
others working around you are aware of hot surfaces stop people from doing certain tasks in a hazardous area.
and hot equipment, such as trays you have just taken Red signs are also used for fire-fighting equipment.
from the oven.
l Report the problem to another colleague, for example
your mentor or someone with responsibility for health
and safety.
l Report the problem to a supervisor, head chef or
manager.
No
l Remove dangerous pieces of equipment, for example
a hand-held blender with a damaged electrical cord,
or place a ‘do not use’ sign on larger equipment and smoking
inform a supervisor, head chef or manager.
on site
Hazard warning signs
Safety signs are used to control a hazard. They should not
replace other methods of controlling risks. Green signs – safe signs
These are route signs designed to show where fire exits and
Yellow signs – warning signs emergency exits are. Green also tends to be used for first-
These are to warn of various dangers, such as slippery floors, aid equipment.
hot oil or hot water. They also warn about hazards such as
corrosive material.
Fire
First aid exit
protection
In the case of electric shock:
l switch off the current
must be l raise the alarm
l call for medical/first-aid help.
worn You can give artificial respiration where necessary if you are
trained in the procedure.
3
Gas is often the preferred fuel for industrial stoves and can People using chemical substances must be trained to use
be potentially hazardous. On leaving the kitchen, make sure them properly and safely. This will include:
that you turn off all gas appliances. It is important to report l wearing the relevant protective clothing, such as
any gas leaks, faulty equipment or gas smell immediately to aprons, goggles, gloves and facemasks
a supervisor or line manager. l following the manufacturer’s instructions correctly
l always storing chemicals in their original containers,
In some kitchens there are central gas cut-off points where
away from heat and with the lids tightly closed
one switch cuts off the gas supply to the whole kitchen.
l not allowing exposure to heat or to naked flames
These are used in emergency situations such as a fire.
l never mixing chemicals
l knowing first-aid procedures
Hazardous substances l disposing of used chemicals and empty containers
The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health correctly.
(COSHH) Regulations (1999) state that an employer
must not carry out work that might expose employees to
substances that are hazardous to their health, unless the Incident/accident reporting
employer has assessed the risks and put relevant controls If an accident or near-accident occurs in your working area
in place. These risk assessments must be recorded and it is important that it is reported to the appropriate person
available for inspection. All potentially harmful chemicals so it can be recorded and measures put in place to prevent
must be stored, used and then disposed of properly it occurring again.
according to COSHH regulations. The hazardous nature
of the chemical must be identified on the packaging. Health and safety
Substances that are dangerous to health are labelled as Remember! Kitchens can be dangerous places. Remain
‘very toxic’, ‘toxic’, ‘harmful’, ‘irritant’ or ‘corrosive’. aware of hazards and potential hazards at all times.
This includes the use of recognisable symbols.
Health and safety must be monitored regularly in the
workplace by the designated health and safety manager/
officer. Any accident incidents or near-accidents must be
recorded, even if no one was injured.
As an employee all accidents and potential accidents
must be reported to your line manager or supervisor. Each
accident is recorded in an accident book/file, which must
be provided in every business. Below is an example of an
Corrosive Flammable incident report form showing all the details required.
Details of hospitalisation:
Injured person’s evidence of what happened (include equipment/items and/or other persons):
Supervisor’s recommendations:
l eye injuries from chemicals getting into the eye, a hot l unconsciousness or illness requiring medical treatment
metal burn to the eye or any penetration of the eye caused by inhaling a harmful substance or absorbing
l any injury from electric shock or burning that leads to it through the skin (such as breathing in poisonous
unconsciousness or the need to resuscitate the person carbon monoxide leaking from a gas appliance)
or send them to hospital for more than 24 hours l illness requiring medical treatment caused by a
l any injury resulting in hypothermia (when someone biological agent or its toxins or infected material (such
gets too cold), or illness due to heat, that leads to as harmful bacteria used in laboratories).
unconsciousness or the need to resuscitate the person
Examples of reportable diseases include:
or send them to hospital for more than 24 hours (such
l dermatitis
as an electric shock, or a gas flame blown back and
l skin cancer
causing burns)
l asthma
l unconsciousness caused by exposure to a harmful
l hepatitis
substance or biological agents (such as cleaning
l tuberculosis
products and solvents)
l tetanus
l anthrax.
Stage 3 – place
feet slightly apart,
straight back,
squat over the Stage 4 –
object with keep the
knees slightly load close
bent and feet to the waist
slightly apart
Fire safety All fires require heat, fuel and oxygen (‘the fire triangle’ –
see below). Without any one of these elements a fire will
Everyone working in a kitchen needs to be aware of the
not start. Methods of putting fires out concentrate on
potential risk of fire. It is important to work safely to prevent
either cooling it (as in a water extinguisher or fire hose) or
fire, especially around open gas jets and when using fats
depriving it oxygen (as in an extinguisher that uses foam or
and oils with cooking appliances. Deep-fat fryers should
powder).
be thermostatically controlled to prevent overheating and
only be used after training has been completed. Fuel
All employers have a duty of care for the safety of Flammable gases, liquids or solids
employees in the event of a fire. The Regulatory Reform
(Fire Safety) Order 2005 emphasises that measures
must be taken to prevent fires. All staff must be trained
in emergency evacuation with fire action plans clearly Ignition source Oxygen
displayed to show the correct evacuation routes for staff, Smoking or naked flames Always present in the air
Hot surfaces Also comes from
customers and visitors. The fire evacuation procedures
Electrical equipment oxidising substances
should be practised at least once a year, the procedure Static electricity
recorded and reviewed regularly to take into account staff
The fire triangle
changes and any changes to the premises.
Under current health and safety regulations it is a Fire precautions
requirement to: Effective measures in the prevention of fire include:
l make sure that the fire precautions, where reasonably l removing all hazards or reducing them as much as
practicable, ensure the safety of all employees and possible
others in the building l making sure that measures have been taken to protect
l complete a fire risk assessment of the premises and from the risk of fire and the likelihood of a fire spreading
specific areas. This must be recorded and be available l ensuring that all escape routes are safe and used
for inspection. Preventative and protective measures effectively, and that they are well signed and easy to
must be reviewed. A fire risk assessment will help to access
establish the likelihood of a fire occurring and highlight l provision of suitable fire-fighting equipment and staff
the dangers from fire in the workplace well trained in its use
l make sure that suitable fire detection systems are in l providing suitable ways of detecting a fire (for example
place and fire alarms are tested weekly smoke alarms) and instructions on what to do in case of
l clearly sign all escape routes and make sure that they fire
are free from hazards that might slow down or prevent l arrangements in place for what to do if a fire breaks out
escape. – employees must be trained in what to do in the event
of a fire
l all precautions provided must be installed and
maintained by a competent person.
Fires are classified in accordance with British Standard EN2 As well as providing security and protection for all these
as follows: people, consideration needs to be given to the buildings
l Class A: fires involving solid materials where burning and grounds; fixtures, fittings and furniture; decor and
normally forms glowing embers, for example, wood. decorative items; equipment; clothing and linen; and stock.
l Class B: fires involving liquids, such as methylated spirit
The main security concerns include:
or any kind of flammable gel used under a burner.
l theft: where customers’ property, employers’ property
l Class C: fires involving gases.
(particularly food, drink and equipment) or employees’
l Class D: fires involving metals.
property is stolen
l Class F: fires involving cooking oils or fats.
l burglary: where a burglar comes on to the premises
Different types of fire extinguishers are suitable for different (trespasses) and steals customers’, employers’ or
types of fire. Generally, portable fire extinguishers contain employees’ property
one of the following five substances: l robbery: theft with assault, for example when staff are
l water banking or collecting cash
l foam l fraud: false insurance claims; counterfeit money; stolen
l powder credit cards
l carbon dioxide l assault: fights between customers; assaults on staff by
l vaporising liquids. customers; violence or attacks on staff; verbal abuse
l vandalism: damage to property caused by customers,
The most useful form of general-purpose fire-fighting
intruders or employees
equipment is the water-type extinguisher or hose reel. Areas
l arson: setting fire to the property
of special risk, such as kitchens where oil, fats and electrical
l undesirable individuals: having people such as drug
equipment are used, may need other types of extinguisher,
dealers on the premises
such as carbon dioxide, wet chemical or dry powder.
l terrorism: bombs, telephone bomb threats.
Ensure that you know exactly where the fire alarms are in
The Management of Health and Safety at Work
your working area and how they are operated. Also be well
Regulations 1999 require employers to conduct a risk
aware of the evacuation procedures in your establishment
assessment regarding the safety of staff in the business.
and follow the procedure shown to you. If you need to
Preventing crime is more efficient and less damaging than
leave the premises because of fire, the usual steps include:
having to deal with it once it has happened.
l Raise the alarm and warn others verbally.
l Turn off gas supplies using a central cut-off point if
possible. Dealing with security
l Do not put yourself and others in danger; only tackle Everyone entering the premises should be monitored.
the smallest of fires, and only if you know how to do this Reception staff should be trained to spot suspicious
and you are certain that it is safe to do so. individuals and those likely to cause problems. Everyone
l Leave by the appointed exits, checking that others who comes into the building should be asked to sign in
are also vacating the building. Guests, visitors and at reception and, if they are a legitimate visitor, be given
customers may need assisting and directing. a security badge. It is also essential to make sure that any
l Go to the appointed assembly point and await further suspicious person does not re-enter the building.
instruction. l All contract workers should be registered and given
l Do not re-enter the building until you are told you can security badges, and they may be restricted to working
do so. in certain areas.
l There should also be good security systems on all
doors; those delivering goods need to report to the
Security procedures relevant person.
Security in hospitality premises always remains a high l All establishments should try to reduce temptation for
priority. In many hospitality establishments large numbers criminals, for example by reducing the amount of cash
of people can be present in the building at any one time. that is handled. The use of credit and debit cards is now
These may include: staff, guests, customers, contractors, common and widespread, and reduces the amounts of
visitors and others. cash used, so reducing the risk of cash theft. However,
credit/debit card fraud and crimes are also a problem.
l Staff who handle money should be trained in simple Dealing with customers’ property
anti-fraud measures, such as checking bank notes, Customers’ property often needs to be looked after,
checking signatures on plastic cards and so on. secured or cared for in hospitality establishments. Keeping
l It is impossible to remove all temptation, so equipment customers’ property safe while on the premises is dealt
(such as computers, fax machines, photocopiers) with by:
should be marked with some sort of security tag or l locked rooms
identification. l lockers and locking cupboards
l There are many simple and obvious security measures l personal safes in rooms or a central safe that customers
that can also be taken, such as locking doors and can use
windows. l cloakrooms with ticket/token systems
l Coded key pads on doors are effective in keeping areas l items left in reception areas or at concierge desks
safe. Keys should be kept securely and access to them l items given to staff for safe keeping.
restricted to those who need them.
l Good lighting is also important for security reasons – When customers’ property has been left behind by mistake
criminals are less likely to come on to the premises at the usual procedure is to report it to a supervisor, record
night if they can be clearly seen. Regular checks should the date and a description of the item, and then store it
be made of the lighting in all areas. Lighting areas that securely. When the identity and whereabouts of the person
can be seen by passers-by can also help. leaving the item is known they may be contacted to inform
l Closed-circuit television (CCTV) cameras with recordings them of their lost property.
are also used as a deterrent against crime. Most establishments will have set procedures in place with
l With regard to staff, a good security measure is regards to risks, threats and security. Make sure that you
checking their references from previous employers. are aware of these policies and carry them out correctly in
l Staff are frequently provided with security swipe line with the establishment’s operational procedures. Most
cards to enter the building; these may also carry a employers provide regular training and update sessions
photograph of the staff member. for their staff, making sure that everyone is well aware of
l Some companies put the ‘right to search’ into employee requirements and that their knowledge is up to date.
contracts – this means that, from time to time, the
employer can carry out searches of the employees’
lockers, bags and other belongings.
Test yourself
1 When you work in a kitchen it is important for you to have an understanding of
health and safety issues. Suggest three places that you could find out about
health and safety.
2 Suggest three hazards that you may come across in your kitchen that you
think may cause an injury or accident. Who would you report these to, and
how could you warn others working around you?
3 Describe four signs that you may see around the kitchen to warn or inform you
of health and safety issues.
4 Why is it important that everyone in the kitchen knows where to find the first-
aid equipment, and why is it important that first-aid supplies are kept topped
up?
5 If you were asked to move some large boxes that had been delivered, how
could you do this safely?
6 Suggest three possible causes of fire in a kitchen. Which type of fire-fighting
equipment could be used on a deep-fat fryer?
7 Suggest three ways that you could reduce the risk of accidental fire when
working in the kitchen.
8 If you see an accident or near-accident in your workplace who should you
report it to? Why is reporting it important?
9 Describe three of the security procedures you are aware of in your workplace.
10 If a visitor to your kitchen or a customer left some of their property behind,
what is the procedure that should be followed?
10
When working in a kitchen, or in any hospitality role, you With a list of tasks it will be necessary to prioritise which
will be working as part of a team. This may include: are most important or need to be done first. For example,
l completing tasks on your own but as part of a wider some vegetables needed for lunch service in an hour’s time
team will need to be dealt with before the preparation of items
l completing tasks with one or two other people as part for dinner or tomorrow’s menu.
of a wider team
Also, you need to organise your time efficiently; while
l working as part of a large team that may be subdivided
something is cooking in the oven you could be working
into sections.
on something else. If you need help or advice on how to
Kitchen teams will include managers, supervisors (head prioritise tasks or if you are unsure that you have got it
chefs or sous chefs) as well as team members at various right, ask for guidance. As the day’s work progresses it may
levels and those working at the same level as yourself. There be necessary to change the order and priority of tasks as
will also be people providing support, such as kitchen some things may become more urgent. Writing down the
porters and clerical staff. Kitchen teams vary in size and type instructions given to you will help you to work efficiently
depending on the establishment – a large hotel may have and professionally.
an extensive kitchen brigade with a formal structure, but
a small restaurant will have a smaller and less formal team. Types of instructions
l The recipe: one of the most important sets of
Planning and organising instructions you will use; it is important to follow it
accurately. You will frequently need to scale the recipe
your work up or down (multiplying or dividing the amounts) to
To be successful as part of a kitchen team you will need match the quantities you will need; take care to do this
to develop the skills to plan and organise your own work. accurately. It is advisable to write down and double
You need to make sure that the instructions and allocated check the amended recipe amounts. Read the whole
tasks given to you are clearly understood so that mistakes recipe through at least once before starting the task
are not made, and time and food are not wasted. If there and ask about anything you are unsure of. Assemble the
is something you do not understand, ask for a further ingredients you will need before starting preparation
explanation or to be shown the procedure again. or cooking, and also assemble all of the tools and
equipment you will need.
The tasks to be completed by each kitchen section and
l Use of equipment and machinery: always make
each member of staff needs to be planned and organised
sure you have been shown how to prepare and use
so that all work is completed efficiently, to the required
equipment for specific tasks. For example, does a
standards and on time.
dessert mould need lining with silicone film? Does a
loaf tin need to be greased and floured? Always make
Following instructions sure you have had full instructions and training before
You will be given a number of instructions during your using equipment or machinery that you are unsure of.
working day and it is important to complete these tasks to l Health and safety/food safety instructions: follow
the best of your ability and with accuracy. These may be the guidelines or training given by your employer and
written down as a task list for you to complete or you may any training courses you may have completed. Some
receive verbal instruction. Whichever way you are given the of these instructions will be legal requirements and it
instructions, read and/or listen carefully, if possible confirm is your legal responsibility to comply with them. Apart
back what is required of you, and ask for further instruction from following the necessary instructions, it is essential
if you don’t understand what you are being asked to do. that you report anything that may cause problems
11
in maintaining the required standards of health and safety requirements, as well as allowing you to work
safety or food safety. For example, it would be essential efficiently and professionally. ‘Clean as you go’ must be
to report a refrigerator not maintaining the required standard practice in all food preparation areas.
temperature (as food at the wrong temperature can
Do not allow waste to build up in work areas; dispose
cause food poisoning) or an electrical appliance
of waste according to the policies practised by the
with a damaged flex (which could cause an electric
establishment (for example, some items may be placed in
shock or fire).
specific containers for recycling). General waste should be
l Uniform and personal hygiene: instructions on the
placed in a lined waste bin with a foot-operated lid. Make
required standards of kitchen uniform and the standards
sure this is emptied regularly and not allowed to become
of personal hygiene required must be followed precisely.
overfull.
This will give you pride in your own appearance and
professionalism, and will also maintain the standards Ensure that food contact surfaces, such as chopping boards,
and reputation of the establishment you work for. You are clean and sanitised before use. Clean well and sanitise
will have been given instructions about reporting areas between tasks. Organise the equipment you will need
any sickness or infection you may have before you for the work you are completing and consider the best way
start work. It is of the utmost importance, and a legal to complete each task with maximum efficiency.
requirement, that you follow these instructions fully. Put equipment and ingredients away in the proper places
l Emergency procedure instructions: you will have once you have finished using them. Make sure that food
been told the procedure to follow in an emergency items being put away into fridges, freezers and other
such as a fire. Be aware of the procedures and follow storage areas are correctly covered or wrapped and labelled
evacuation instruction correctly. and dated according to the establishment’s policy.
l Standard operational procedure: some instructions
you are given about the way that you work and Working efficiently means that tasks are completed within
complete tasks will be specific to the individual the time allowed, in a well-organised, clean and tidy way,
workplace or a group of establishments. It means that without causing undue stress or tiredness. There have
all employees will be completing tasks in the same been many studies on the way people work best and
way and will be maintaining the same standards. This the provision of working conditions that suit the people
is called the ‘standard operational procedure’ (SOP) working with them – this is often referred to as ergonomics.
and will detail the steps and activities of a process and
the required quality and presentation of the finished
product. An example would be the way a specific dish
was produced, presented, garnished and served at a
banqueting event so each plate looks exactly the same.
12
We all need to be aware of food sustainability. There are in an organised structure to ensure all work is completed
ever-increasing demands on world food stocks and efforts to the required standards, on time with all team members
are being made to produce food that does not impose understanding their role and responsibilities. Working as
long-term harm on the environment, endanger animal part of a team can allow people to feel valued and learn
or fish species, and provides fair pay and conditions for from each other’s skills and expertise. In a good team people
agricultural workers. Reducing the amounts of food we feel supported in their role allowing for job satisfaction
waste helps to achieve these aims. We are also encouraged and team achievement. The work is completed on time to
to decrease ‘food miles’ where possible, which means high standards and there is a positive and creative working
using local produce rather than similar produce imported environment.
from across the world. Doing this reduces waste on fuel
and storage, and often excess packaging too. Using more
locally sourced food may also result in a high-quality fresher
product as well as adding local or regional interest to the
menu.
Be aware of quantities required before starting preparation.
Take care to avoid unnecessary waste, which can be caused
by:
l over production
l wrong information or lack of information
l careless preparation, for example peeling vegetables
too thickly
l poor cooking procedures, such as overcooking causing
excessive shrinkage or food to be completely spoiled
l poor storage and lack of stock rotation, causing food to
deteriorate Offering help to others
l allowing food to become contaminated, so it then must
On occasions you may need to offer help and assistance
be disposed of to others to make sure the team reaches their targets on
l high-risk food at kitchen temperatures for too long,
time. However, only do this when you have sufficient time
which must then be thrown away. and your own work will not suffer by helping others, if the
help you offer is within your capabilities, and it does not
Asking for help contradict what a supervisor or senior chef has asked you
Working as part of a team means that you will be working to do. If you are not sure about any of this, ask your section
together with others to reach the desired goals within a chef, head chef or line manager.
specific time. Variations of requirements and pressures of Remember that it is the outcome and product of the team
work in different areas mean that you may need to ask for that defines a successful business or operation and it is
help from others to reach your targets on time. less likely that those working in isolation will achieve the
You may also need to ask for help or further instruction if necessary goals.
you don’t understand what you are being asked to do, if
you need advice on how to prioritise tasks, or if you are Passing on information
unsure that you have got a task right. You should speak to At some time in the day you may be left a message or
your supervisor or line manager. given information that needs to be passed on to others
in the team. It is essential that such information is passed
Working effectively with on quickly and accurately. Make sure that the person you
are giving the information to fully hears and understands
team members what you are telling them. If a written note has been left or
Good teamwork is essential in all working environments and an email sent, make sure it has been seen and read by the
kitchen teams have traditionally worked closely together relevant person.
13
Sometimes however, negative behaviour occurs in a No employee should suffer any of the above and a solution
workplace. This must be discouraged and dealt with to the problem must be found as soon as possible. Discuss
promptly and effectively by someone managing or any concerns that you may have with your line manager,
supervising the area. Negative behaviour can include: supervisor or head chef.
14
Communicating clearly and l Fax messaging: this ‘older technology’ still has
numerous uses, especially when exact copies,
effectively signed copies, drawings or diagrams need to be sent
Good communication is essential to a successful kitchen elsewhere.
team. There will be many different communication methods l Electronic systems: these have become increasingly
used between: sophisticated and are very popular. Frequently used
l individuals working together systems include email, text messaging, QR codes,
l other kitchen sections and service staff electronic ordering systems, data-logging systems and
l other departments and management systems designed for specific company use, such as
l suppliers and contractors Vocera, Maytas or Opera.
l customers/guests.
Many employees are now given access to their own
Speaking and listening is the most widely used form of company email or other communication system.
communication in a kitchen, so it is important that it carried Increasingly communication takes place through social
out effectively: media such as Twitter, Facebook, LinkedIn and Rehoba.
l Speak clearly and listen carefully so the message is
understood. This is especially important in a noisy
kitchen.
Developing your skills
l Non-verbal gestures, such as facial expressions and Good employees will be keen to learn as much as they can
hand gestures, may help to reinforce the message and about the job they are employed to do, as well as improving
will confirm understanding. and refining their own knowledge and skills. Development
l Take time to communicate properly; avoid speaking within the job role will lead to progression and promotion,
from a distance or speaking while walking past the and will also provide interesting challenges.
other person.
l Avoid interrupting and avoid distractions; listen to what Improving your knowledge and
is being said then respond.
l Do not shout, swear or use inappropriate language.
skills
l When receiving verbal instruction, ask questions where Improving your knowledge and skills is not only beneficial
necessary and summarise the instruction at the end. for you and your career progression but will help to raise
the skills within the team and provide variety and diversity
However, there are many other ways that communication within the workplace. You may also encourage others
takes place in kitchens, including: working with you to develop their skills and knowledge too.
l Non-verbal gestures: non-verbal gestures – such as
a nod, a raised hand or ‘thumb up’ – can be useful, but The ways that you can develop and progress within your
make sure they are not misunderstood, especially when job role include:
communicating between different nationalities and l asking questions of others as well as finding things out
from formal letters through task lists and brief notes. l attending training provided by your employer or asking
Make sure they are clearly written so that the recipient about courses that interest you
will fully understand the meaning. l attending a full-time or part-time college course
often used in instructions and signs around the kitchen training provider or college
(especially for health and safety instruction). These are l asking for feedback and progression advice
often standardised and are recognised internationally. A l discussing your progress with your managers,
picture, diagram or sketch could also be used to convey supervisors and mentors
meaning where there is a language barrier. l actively participating in formal appraisals, discussing
l Telephone: this remains a very widely used method your performance targets and progression
of communication and there may be specific systems l producing or working to a learning plan (see below).
15
16
Test yourself
1 Give three reasons why good, effective teamwork is essential in a kitchen.
2 Why is it important to fully understand exactly what is required from the work
you complete? What could go wrong if you did not understand?
3 Give three reasons why it is important to keep your own working area clean
and tidy.
4 What are the main reasons for avoiding waste when you are working?
5 Suggest two occasions when you may offer help to someone else in your
team. Also, suggest two occasions when you should not give help to
someone else.
6 When might you ask for help from someone else?
7 Describe four pieces of information you may need to pass on to someone else.
What are the ways you could use to pass on the information clearly?
8 Give three examples of positive behaviour in a team and three examples of
negative behaviour.
9 If you were concerned about poor working relationships in your kitchen what
could you do about it?
10 What are the benefits to you of continuing to improve your work knowledge
and skills?
11 How can you get feedback on how you are progressing with your learning
and skills? Suggest a good way to keep a record of your targets and
achievements.
17
This chapter provides the necessary information to enable Although the main reason for adopting high standards of
you to prepare and cook food safely. It focuses on the key food safety is to prevent the possibility of food poisoning,
food safety control areas outlined by the Food Standards there are many more benefits a food business can gain by
Agency: cooking, cleaning, chilling and prevention of cross- keeping food safety standards high. These include:
contamination. It also discusses food safety hazards and the l being compliant with food safety law
measures necessary to control them, from delivery of food l reducing food wastage and improving efficiency
up until the time it is served to the customer, and how to l return business from satisfied customers
comply with food safety legislation. l building a good reputation and receiving fewer
complaints.
What is food safety and
why does it matter? Keeping yourself clean and
Everyone eating food prepared and cooked for them should hygienic
reasonably expect to be served safe food that will not cause All food handlers are a potential source of contamination
them illness or harm them in any way. Food poisoning is still from food poisoning bacteria and other hazards, so it is
a significant problem and it can be serious; food handlers very important that they are aware of the importance
must take great care to prevent it. of high standards of appearance and personal hygiene.
As well as the important part this plays in avoiding food
Food safety means putting in place all of the measures
contamination, it will reflect the professionalism of the
needed to make sure that food and drinks are suitable, safe
individual as well as the establishment they work for, giving
and wholesome through all the processes of food provision,
a positive impression of the food business.
from selecting suppliers and delivery of food right through
to serving the food to the customer. All food handlers need to ensure that they have a daily bath
or shower, clean underwear every day and use a suitable
Eating ‘contaminated’ food can result in food poisoning,
underarm deodorant.
causing harm, illness and, in some cases, even death.
The number of reported cases of food poisoning in the
UK each year remains unacceptably high: between 70,000
Protective clothing
and 94,000 cases reported each year. However, as a large Protective clothing is worn to protect food from
number of food poisoning cases are never reported, no one contamination by food handlers and to protect the wearer
really knows the actual number. from things such as excessive heat, burns and sharp objects.
The term ‘food poisoning’ covers a range of illnesses of the It is very important that food handlers wear suitable clothing
digestive system and is usually caused by eating food that that protects their body; protective footwear should also be
has become contaminated with bacteria and/or the toxins worn.
they may produce. However, there are a number of ways Clothing worn in the kitchen must be strong to make it
that food can become contaminated and cause harm, and ’protective’ and withstand the hard wear and frequent
all must be avoided. washing needed. Clothing will also need to be lightweight,
This chapter covers the various ways that food businesses comfortable and absorbent to deal with perspiration
and food handlers can keep food safe to eat and avoid caused by a hot kitchen.
causing food poisoning.
19
Hats Fingernails
The main purpose of a hat is to prevent loose hairs from These should always be kept clean and short as dirt can
falling into food and to absorb perspiration on the forehead. easily lodge under the nails and be transferred to food,
As well as the traditional chef’s toque (tall white hat) a variety introducing harmful bacteria. Nails must be kept neatly
of designs are now available, some with a net incorporated trimmed and nail varnish must never be worn in food areas.
to contain the hair completely. Lightweight disposable hats
are now used by many establishments.
20
21
Good levels of health and fitness are required to work in There must be adequate storage areas; proper refrigerated
a kitchen, so attention must be paid to maintaining your storage is especially important. Cleaning and disinfection
health with a good diet, adequate exercise and enough should be planned with separate storage areas for cleaning
sleep and rest. Many employers now have an occupational materials and chemicals.
health department to support and advise employees in Sufficient, suitable staff hand washing/drying facilities must
health matters. be provided, as well as personal hygiene facilities for staff,
It is now a legal requirement for all food handlers to including changing and storage areas for personal clothing
report certain illnesses or infections they may have to their and belongings.
line manager/supervisor before starting work as they may All areas should allow for efficient cleaning, disinfection and
be excluded from handling food. This is because with pest control.
22
Entrance and
goods in
Staff Kitchen waste
accommodation
and offices Empties store
Food preparation
Waste food
Cooking
Pot wash
Roasting
Frying Baking Steaming Boiling
Grilling Wash up
Dishing up
Dirties
Service
return
Dining area
Workflow through the areas of the kitchen
23
If you notice that a piece of equipment is damaged, broken, As a food handler it is important to clean as you go and
cracked, has loose parts or is not working properly, either not allow waste to accumulate in the area where you are
remove it from use or – if it’s too large to do that – put up a working; this is because it is very difficult to keep untidy
sign warning others not to use it. Report the problem with areas clean.
the equipment to a supervisor or whoever is in charge of
food safety immediately. These measures must be taken to Cleaning products
prevent injury to the person using the equipment but also Different cleaning products are designed for different tasks.
to prevent contamination of food and illness or injury to the Detergent is designed to remove grease and dirt and hold
consumer. them in suspension in water. It may be in the form of liquid,
The same applies to damaged surfaces or fittings such as powder, gel or foam, and usually needs to be added to
work surfaces, walls, ceilings, floors and furniture. Attention water. Detergent will not kill pathogens (but the hot water it
must also be given to serving and display equipment to is mixed with may help to do this); however, it will clean and
ensure it is undamaged and in good working order. Cracks degrease so that disinfectant can work properly. Detergents
and crevasses can hold food debris and bacteria, which work best with hot water.
can then be transferred to food. Loose parts from broken Disinfectant is designed to destroy bacteria when used
equipment, cracked tiles or flaking paint can fall into food properly; make sure you only use a disinfectant intended for
as it is being prepared. These could cause illness and injury kitchen use. Disinfectants must be left on a clean, grease-
to the person eating the food, so damaged surfaces and free surface for the required amount of time – contact
equipment must be reported to the responsible person time – to be effective. Heat may also be used to disinfect,
immediately. for example the use of steam cleaners or the hot rinse cycle
of a dishwasher.
Cleaning Sanitiser both cleans and disinfects, and usually comes
Clean food areas are essential in the production of safe food in spray form. Sanitiser is very useful for work surfaces and
and it is a requirement to plan, record and check all cleaning equipment, especially between tasks. It is usual to clean
as part of a cleaning schedule. surfaces with hot water and detergent before spraying with
Clean premises, work areas and equipment are important sanitiser.
to: Items that should be both cleaned and disinfected include:
l control the bacteria that cause food poisoning l all items that come into contact with food, such as
l discourage growth of moulds preparation surfaces, chopping boards, bowls, trays,
l reduce the possibility of physical and chemical knives, serving equipment and utensils, and food
contamination display items
l make accidents less likely, for example slips on a greasy l all hand-contact surfaces, such as door and refrigerator
floor handles, telephones and switches
l create a positive image for customers, visitors and l all equipment used for cleaning, such as cloths, mops,
employees buckets, brooms, dustpans and hand-brushes.
l comply with the law
l avoid attracting pests to the kitchen. Cleaning cloths
The cleaning schedule needs to include the following Take great care with kitchen cloths – they are a growing area
information: for bacteria. Different cloths for different areas will help to
l what is to be cleaned reduce cross-contamination and it is certainly good practice
l who should do it (name if possible) to use different cloths for raw food and high-risk food areas.
l how it is to be done and how long it should take Use of disposable kitchen towel is the most hygienic way to
l when it should be done (for example, the time of day) dry utensils and food preparation areas.
24
If a tea towel is used, treat it with great care: remember that Dishwashing by hand
it can easily spread bacteria so don’t use it as an ‘all-purpose If items need to be washed by hand the recommended way
cloth’ and don’t keep it on your shoulder (the cloth touches to do this is:
neck and hair, picking up bacteria). 1 Scrape/rinse off residue food.
2 Wash items in a sink of hot water (the temperature
Cleaning procedures should be 50 °C to 60 °C, which means that rubber
Cleaning kitchen surfaces should be planned and all staff gloves need to be worn). Use a dishwashing brush
need to be trained in a suitable cleaning method, such as rather than a cloth.
one of the following. 3 Rinse in very hot water – if rinsing can be done at 82 °C
for 30 seconds it would disinfect the dishes.
Six-stage process for cleaning a surface 4 Allow to air dry; do not use tea towels.
1 Remove debris and loose particles.
2 Main clean to remove residue and grease. Waste disposal
3 Rinse using clean hot water and cloth to remove the
It is important to deal with kitchen waste quickly, hygienically
detergent.
and safely. If waste is allowed to build up in kitchen areas it
4 Apply disinfectant and leave for the contact time
can encourage pests, allow for multiplication of bacteria,
recommended on the container.
produce unpleasant odours, and items such as food
5 Rinse off the disinfectant (if recommended).
trimmings and packaging materials could fall into food that
6 Allow to air dry or use kitchen paper.
is being prepared.
Four-stage process for cleaning a surface All food handlers should keep areas clear, clean and waste
1 Remove debris and loose particles. to a minimum. Kitchen waste should be placed in waste
2 Main clean using hot water, detergent and sanitiser. bins with lids. They should preferably be foot-operated to
3 Rinse using clean hot water and cloth if recommended reduce contamination to the hands. Bins should be made of
on instructions. a strong material, usually a thick plastic, with a strong plastic
4 Allow to air dry or use kitchen paper. liner bag placed inside, be easy to clean and pest proof.
To deal with waste hygienically bins should be emptied
Cleaning is essential to prevent hazards but, if not managed
very regularly to avoid waste build-up; the task of keeping
properly, can become a hazard in itself. Do not store cleaning
kitchen waste bins emptied and cleaned/disinfected
chemicals in food preparation and cooking areas, and take
should be listed on the cleaning schedule with a specific
care with their use to avoid chemical contamination. Make
person responsible for doing this. An over-full, heavy bin is
sure that items such as cloths, paper towels and fibres from
much more difficult to handle and empty than a bin that is
mops do not get into open food (physical contamination).
emptied regularly.
Bacterial contamination could occur by using the same
cleaning cloths and equipment in raw food areas then in Outside waste should be in strong containers with lids to
high-risk food areas, or by using dirty cloths and equipment. prevent pests getting in. They should preferably be raised
from the floor (usually by wheels) and on a hard surface,
Dishwashing such as concrete, that can be hosed down and kept clean.
Outside waste bins should be emptied regularly.
Automatic dishwashing
The most efficient and hygienic method of cleaning dishes
and crockery is the use of a dishwashing machine as this will Pests
clean and disinfect items that will then air dry, removing the When there are reports of food premises being heavily fined
need for cloths. The dishwasher can also be used to clean/ or forcibly closed down, an infestation of pests is often the
disinfect small equipment such as chopping boards. The reason. As pests can be a serious source of contamination
stages in machine dishwashing are: and disease, they must be eliminated for food safety reasons
1 Remove waste food. and to comply with the law. Pests can carry food-poisoning
2 Pre-rinse or spray. bacteria into food premises from their fur/feathers, feet/
3 Load on to the appropriate racks with a space between paws, saliva, urine and droppings. Other problems caused
each item. by pests include damage to food stock and packaging;
4 The wash cycle runs at 50 °C to 60 °C using a detergent. damage to buildings, equipment and wiring; and blockages
5 The rinse cycle runs at 82 °C to 88 °C which will disinfect in equipment and piping.
items ready for air drying.
25
Pests are attracted to food premises because there may be ants), birds and domestic pets. Pest management needs to
food, warmth, shelter, water and possible nesting materials; be planned as part of the food safety management system.
all reasonable measures must be put in place to keep them Regular visits from a recognised pest control company are
out. Any possible signs that pests may be present must be advisable because they will offer advice as well as deal with
reported to the supervisor or manager immediately. problems arising. Companies conducting a regular audit will
provide a pest audit report, which should be kept and could
Common pests that may cause problems in food areas are:
be used as part of the food safety management system.
rats, mice, cockroaches, wasps, flies, ants (including pharaoh
Table 3.1 Signs of pest presence
Pest Signs that they are present
Rats and mice Sightings of rodents, droppings, unpleasant smell, gnawed wires, etc. Greasy marks on lower walls,
damaged food stock, paw prints.
Flies and wasps Sighting of flies and wasps, hearing them, dead insects, maggots.
Cockroaches Sightings (dead or alive) usually at night, unpleasant smell.
Ants Sightings and present in food; the tiny, pale-coloured Pharaoh ants are difficult to spot but can still
be the source of a variety of pathogens.
Weevils Sightings of weevils in stored products, e.g. flour or cornflour; may be difficult to see – tiny black
insects moving in flour.
Birds Sightings, droppings, in outside storage areas and around refuse.
Domestic pets These must be kept out of food areas as they carry pathogens on fur, whiskers, saliva, urine, etc.
Measures to keep pests out of the building are of great Pest control measures can also introduce food safety
importance and need to be planned. Pest control hazards. Bodies of dead insects or even rodents may remain
contractors can offer advice on keeping pests out as well in the kitchen (physical and bacterial contamination).
as organise eradication systems for any pests that do get in. Pesticides, insecticides and baits could cause chemical
Some basic guidelines are: contamination if not managed properly. Pest control is best
l block entry – for example no holes around pipe work, managed by professionals.
avoid all gaps and cavities where they could get in,
sealed drain covers
l damage to the building or fixtures and fittings should
Storing food safely
be repaired quickly Checking food on delivery
l window/door screening/netting should be in place For food to remain in top condition and be safe to eat it
l check deliveries/packaging for pests is essential that food deliveries are carefully checked, that
l baits and traps used as appropriate correct storage is in place and that procedures are fully
l electronic fly killer (EFK) in place to deal with flying understood by all kitchen staff. Only approved suppliers
insects should be used who can assure that food is delivered in
l use of sealed containers so no open food left out the best condition in suitable, undamaged packaging,
l not allowing a build up of waste in the kitchen properly date coded and at the correct temperature. Food
l outside waste not kept too close to the kitchen suppliers need to be able to provide information on the
l planned pest management control, surveys and reports. product from source through to the time it is delivered
Flying insets cause problems as they can find their way to you (traceability). Packaged or processed food of any
in through very small spaces or from other parts of the kind will have a list of ingredients listed on the pack. If the
building. They can then spread bacteria around the kitchen food is removed from this packaging for storage, retain
and on to open food. To eliminate insects such as flies, the ingredient lists because they will give essential allergy
bluebottles and wasps, an EFK is recommended. These advice.
use ultraviolet light to attract the insects, which are then l All deliveries should be checked then moved to the
electrocuted on charged wires and fall into catch trays. Do appropriate storage area as soon as possible and
not position an EFK directly above food preparation areas chilled/frozen food within 15 minutes of delivery.
and make sure the catch trays are emptied regularly.
26
l Use a food probe to check the temperature of food kept clean and tidy, and this needs to be planned as part of
deliveries; record these temperatures and keep as part the cleaning schedule. If you notice that these areas are not
of the food safety management system: clean and tidy report it to a supervisor who can deal with
– chilled food should be below 5 °C (reject it if above the matter properly.
8 °C)
– frozen food should be at or below −18 °C (reject it if The multi-use refrigerator
above −15 °C). The following guidelines apply if a refrigerator is used to
l Many suppliers now provide a print out of temperatures store various types of food:
at which food was delivered, (save these printouts in l It is best practice to keep the refrigerator running
kitchen records). between 1 °C and 4 °C (the legal requirement is 8 °C).
l Dry goods should be in undamaged packaging, well l Food must be covered and labelled with name of item
within best-before dates, be completely dry and in and the date.
perfect condition on delivery. l Always store raw food at the bottom of the refrigerator
l packaging and food is undamaged l Never overload a refrigerator – to operate properly cold
l food is at the required temperature (see above) air must be allowed to circulate between items.
l food is within use-by dates or has a suitable best-before l Wrap strong-smelling foods very well as their smell (and
27
Storing fish this date. ‘Blown’ cans must never be used, and do not
A separate fish refrigerator running between 1 °C and 4 °C is use badly dented or rusty cans. Once opened transfer any
best. Remove fresh fish from ice containers and place on trays, unused canned food to a clean bowl, cover and label it, and
cover well with cling film and label. If it is necessary to store store it in the refrigerator for up to two days.
fish in a multi-use refrigerator, make sure it is well covered,
labelled and placed at the bottom of the refrigerator, well Storing cooked and ready-to-eat
away from other items. Remember that odours from fish can foods
permeate other items such as milk or eggs. Foods that are purchased ready-cooked or cooked and
then stored include a wide range of items such as cooked
Storing dairy products and eggs meats and fish, pies and other pastry items, pâté, cream
Pasteurised milk and cream, eggs and cheese should be cakes, desserts and savoury flans. They will usually be ‘high-
stored in their original containers between 1 °C and 4 °C. risk foods’ so correct storage is essential. Check the labelling
Sterilised or UHT milk can be kept in the dry store following on individual items for specific storage instructions but,
the storage instructions on the label. generally, keep them refrigerated between 1 °C and 4 °C.
After delivery, eggs should be stored at a constant Store carefully, wrapped and labelled, and well away from
temperature – a refrigerator is the best place. and above raw foods to avoid any cross-contamination.
Food being held for service must be kept above 63 °C
Storing and defrosting frozen foods (or below 5 °C). If food is being cooled to serve cold or
Store frozen food in a freezer running at –18 °C or below. for reheating at a later time, it must be protected from
Separate raw foods from ready-to-eat foods, and never allow contamination and cooled quickly, that is, to 8 °C within
food to be refrozen once it has thawed. (For information on 90 minutes. The best way to do this is in a blast chiller.
defrosting see ‘Preparing, cooking and holding food safely’ Any food that is to be chilled or frozen must be well wrapped
below.) or placed in a suitable container with a lid, (items may also
be vacuum packed). Make sure that all food is labelled and
Storing fruit, vegetables and salad dated before chilling or freezing.
items
Storage conditions will vary according to type. For example, Stock rotation
sacks of potatoes, root vegetables and some fruit can be
stored in a cool, well-ventilated store room, but salad First in – first out
items, green vegetables, soft fruit and tropical fruit would This term is used to describe stock rotation and is applied to
be better in refrigerated storage. If possible, a specific all categories of food. It simply means that foods already in
refrigerator running at around 8 °C would be ideal to avoid storage must be used before new deliveries (providing stock
any chill damage. is still within recommended dates and in sound condition).
Food deliveries should be labelled with their delivery date
Storing dry goods and preferably the date by which they should be used (see
food labelling codes below). Written stock records should
Dry goods, such as rice, dried pasta, sugar, flour and
form a part of a food safety management system.
grains, should be stored at ambient temperatures (room
temperature). They should be kept in clean, covered
containers on wheels or in smaller sealed containers on Food labelling codes
shelves to stop pests getting into them. Storage should be l Use-by dates appear on perishable foods with a short
in a cool, well-ventilated dry store area and well-managed life. Legally, the food must be used by this date and
stock rotation is essential. Remember to keep packaging should not stored or used after it. Food past its use-by
information as this may include essential allergy advice. date must be thrown away.
l Best-before dates apply to foods that are expected
Storing and handling canned products to have a longer life, such as dry products or canned
food. A best-before date advises that food is at its best
Cans are usually stored in the dry store area and, once
before this date; using it after this date is still legal but
again, rotation of stock is essential. Canned food will carry
not advised.
best-before dates and it is not advisable to use them after
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Preparing, cooking and animal gut and excreta, but it is also found on pests
such as rodents, insects and birds and in raw meat and
holding food safely poultry, eggs and shellfish. Salmonella poisoning can
also be passed on through human carriers (someone
Food safety hazards carrying salmonella but not showing any signs of illness).
There are a number of ways that food could be exposed l Staphylococcus aureus is found mainly on the
to hazards that could result in it becoming contaminated. human body and can be present on the skin, hair and
Contaminated food can cause illness or even be fatal to scalp, nose and throat. Cuts, spots, burns and boils will
those eating it. It is important to be aware of this and to also be a source of this organism. When it multiplies in
check food frequently and follow the required procedures food, a toxin (poison) is produced that is very difficult
from delivery right through until the time it is served. to kill, even with boiling temperatures. To avoid food
poisoning from this organism, food handlers need to
Contamination of food from pathogenic bacteria
maintain very high standards of personal hygiene and
(biological contamination) is considered to be the most
report any illness they may have to their supervisor
dangerous hazard of all because food can be dangerously
before handling food.
contaminated with bacteria but still look, smell and taste
l Clostridium perfringens can be present in human
fine. There is increasing concern about allergenic hazards
and animal faeces and raw meat, poultry and
too, especially as these can be hidden ingredients in food
vegetables (as well as insects, soil, dust and sewage). A
but can still cause dangerous reactions.
number of food-poisoning incidents from this organism
have occurred when large amounts of meat are brought
Biological contamination up to cooking temperatures slowly and then allowed to
Biological contamination can occur from pathogenic cool slowly. Clostridium perfringens can produce spores
bacteria and the toxins they may produce. Viruses, yeasts, during this heating/cooling process. Spores are very
moulds, spoilage bacteria and enzymes are all around us: resistant to any further cooking and allow bacteria to
in the environment, on raw food, on humans, animals, birds survive in conditions that would usually kill them.
and insects. Pathogenic bacteria are of most concern as l Bacillus cereus is another organism that can produce
they can multiply to dangerous levels but still not be visible spores, and it can also produce two different toxins, so
except with a microscope. When pathogenic bacteria it is a very dangerous pathogen. It is often associated
multiply in food or use food to get into the human body, with cooking rice in large quantities, cooling it too
illness can result. slowly and then reheating. The reheating temperatures
are not enough to destroy the spores and toxins. It has
Bacteria and food poisoning also been linked with other cereal crops, spices, soil and
Not all bacteria are harmful: some are very useful and vegetables.
are used to good effect in the manufacture of foods and l Clostridium botulinum is fortunately rare; the
medicines. Making milk into yoghurt and making cheese symptoms can be very serious, even fatal. Sources tend
may use bacteria in the process. to be intestines of fish, soil and vegetables.
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30
allergens/ingredients must be available, irrespective of Food preservation will often combine methods to ensure
whether the food is packaged or chosen from a menu, effective preservation, for example vacuum-packed fish will
although allergy information about menu items may be also be refrigerated, as would pasteurised milk.
provided verbally as long as it is accurate. Statements such
as ‘may contain nuts’ are no longer adequate. For more
information and advice go to the Food Standards Agency’s
Controlling hazards
website (www.food.gov.uk). As a food handler it is your responsibility, along with those
working with you, to assist in the control of food hazards.
There are a number of ways that the range of hazards
Poisoning from other items described above can be controlled. These include:
Some foods can be naturally poisonous, such as some
l strict and careful standards of personal hygiene
types of mushroom and undercooked red kidney beans.
l reporting of illness to the appropriate person
Some oily fish can develop toxins if stored at too high a
l keeping work areas clean and hygienic
temperature, and occasionally some shellfish can cause
l storing food correctly and at the appropriate
illness when they have fed on poisonous plankton.
temperatures
Some moulds can produce toxins as they grow; these are l cooking food to the required temperature
called mycotoxins. Mycotoxins can cause serious illness l taking care to avoid cross-contamination.
and have been linked with cancers. Do not use mouldy
The food handler is also in a good position to notice any
food (controlled moulds, such as in blue cheeses, are fine).
possible hazards that could be a risk to food safety. These
should be reported immediately to a supervisor, head chef
Food spoilage and food preservation or senior chef, or anyone else with responsibility for food
Most foods have a limited life and will eventually deteriorate safety in the area.
due to moulds, yeasts, enzymes or bacteria. Spoilage of
food also occurs due to exposure to oxygen, moisture or
chemicals; damage by pests; or by poor handling and bad Cross-contamination
storage. Cross-contamination occurs when bacteria are transferred
from one place to another. This is usually from contaminated
Unlike bacterial contamination, which is impossible to detect
food (mostly raw food), equipment or surfaces to ready-
in a normal kitchen situation, food spoilage can usually be
to-eat food. It is the cause of significant amounts of food
observed by sight, smell, taste and touch. Spoilage could
poisoning and care must be taken to avoid it. Cross-
include mouldy, slimy, dried-up or over-wet fresh foods.
contamination could be caused by:
Blown cans and vac-packs and food with freezer burn are
l foods touching, for example raw and cooked meat
also a sign of food spoilage.
l raw meat or poultry dripping on to high-risk foods
Different methods have been developed to prolong the l soil from dirty vegetables coming into contact with
natural life of various foods and keep them fresh. These high-risk foods
include: l dirty cloths, dirty staff uniforms or dirty equipment
l use of heat – cooking, canning, sterilisation, UHT, l equipment used for raw then cooked food, for example
pasteurisation chopping boards or knives
l use of heat and sealing – canning, bottling, cooking l hands touching raw then cooked food, not washing
then vacuum packaging hands between tasks, and so on
l use of low temperatures – chilling, freezing l hands touching items such as door handles, refrigerator
l exclusion of air – vacuum packaging handles or telephones
l changing gases surrounding food – modified l pests spreading bacteria around the kitchen.
atmosphere packaging
l removal of moisture – dehydrated foods Controlling cross-contamination
l use of acids, sugar or salt concentrations Completely separate working areas and storage areas for
l food preservatives – for example, nitrates and raw and high-risk foods are strongly recommended. If this
sulphates. is not possible, keep them well away from each other and
make sure that working areas are thoroughly cleaned and
disinfected between tasks.
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Vegetables should be washed before preparation and Clean and sanitise worktops and chopping boards before
again afterwards. Leafy vegetables may need to be washed working on them and do this again after use, paying
in several changes of cold water to remove all of the soil particular attention when they have been used for raw
present. foods.
Good personal hygiene practices by staff, in particular Chopping boards can be disinfected after use by putting
frequent and effective hand washing, is very important them through a dishwasher with a high rinse temperature
in controlling cross-contamination and will avoid the of 82 °C (high temperatures will kill bacteria).
significant amounts of contamination caused by faecal/oral
Small equipment, such as knives, bowls, spoons and
routes (this is when pathogens normally found in faeces
tongs, could also be the cause of cross-contamination;
are transferred to ready-to-eat foods resulting in cross-
it is important to wash them thoroughly (once again a
contamination and illness). An obvious way that this may
dishwasher does it well). This is especially important when
happen is when food handlers visit the toilet, do not wash
they are used for a variety of cooked and raw food.
their hands properly, then handle food.
Colour-coded chopping boards are a good way to keep
different types of food separate. Worktops and chopping
Methods, times, temperatures
boards come into contact with the food being prepared so and checks for keeping food
need special attention. Make sure that chopping boards are safe
in good condition: cracks and splits could trap bacteria and
this could be transferred to food. Defrosting frozen foods before
As well as colour-coded chopping boards some kitchens cooking
also provide colour-coded knives, cloths, cleaning Most frozen foods will need to be defrosted before use.
equipment, storage trays, bowls and even staff uniforms to This is because, if the food is still frozen or partly frozen, it
help prevent cross-contamination. is unlikely to reach the temperatures required in the centre
to kill any bacteria present. The exceptions to this are small
or thin foods such as pizza, vegetables, and small items
of prepared fish or chicken that would defrost fully in the
cooking process.
If you need to defrost frozen food, such as a whole chicken,
place it in a deep tray, cover it with film and label, stating
what the item is and the date when defrosting was started.
Place at the bottom of the refrigerator where thawing liquid
can’t drip on to anything else. Thaw food completely (no ice
crystals on any part), then cook thoroughly within 12 hours.
Make sure that you allow enough time for this process – it
may take longer than you think! (A 2 kg chicken will take
about 24 hours to defrost at 3 °C.)
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Keep food being held for service above 63 °C, or cool it Cooling/chilling cooked food
rapidly and keep below 5 °C. Never put hot or warm food If food is being cooled/chilled to serve cold or for reheating
into a refrigerator or freezer – this will raise the temperature at a later time, it must be protected from contamination
and put food into the danger zone. and cooled quickly to 8 °C within 90 minutes. This will help
prevent multiplication of any bacteria that may be present
Checking food is thoroughly cooked/ and avoids possible problems with spores forming. The best
reheated way to cool food is in a blast chiller but, if this is not available,
Electronic temperature probes are very useful to measure place it in the coolest part of the kitchen, making sure that
the temperature in the centre of both hot and cold food. it is protected from contamination while it is cooling. Any
They are also very useful for recording the temperature of food that has been above 8 °C (but below 63 °C) for more
deliveries and checking food temperatures in refrigerators. than two hours must be thrown away.
Make sure that the probe is clean and disinfected before
To freeze cooked food:
use (disposable disinfectant wipes are useful for this). Place
l chill it first
the probe into the centre of the food, making sure it is not
l wrap well or place in a suitable covered container
touching bone or the cooking container.
l label and date, then freeze quickly
l defrost before using.
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34
Hazard Analysis Critical Control 4 Monitor CCPs – put checks in place to stop problems
happening.
Points 5 Corrective action – what will be done if something goes
All food safety management systems must be based on wrong?
Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points (HACCP). This 6 Verification – check that the HACCP plan is working.
is a recognised system that looks at identifying the critical 7 Documentation – record all of the above.
points for stages in any process, the hazards that may occur
Purchase
and how these will be controlled.
All processes in the kitchen must be monitored so it is Transport
easier to identify if the procedure is not working properly.
Delivery
Where there are problems, such as food not reaching the
required temperature to kill bacteria, systems must be in Refrigeration
place for staff to report this so that correct procedures are
put in place immediately. The system needs to provide a Preparation
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36
Safer Food Better Business The main difference in the 2006 laws was the requirement to
have an approved food safety management procedure
The HACCP system may seem complicated and difficult to
in place with up-to-date records available.
set up for a small or fairly limited business. With this in mind,
the Food Standards Agency launched their Safer Food Legislation concerning food safety covers a wide range of
Better Business system for England and Wales. topics including:
l controlling and reducing outbreaks of food poisoning
This is based on the principles of HACCP but in an easy-
l registration of premises/vehicles
to-understand format with pre-printed pages and charts
l content and labelling of food
to enter the relevant information, such as temperatures
l preventing manufacture and sale of injurious food
of individual dishes. It is divided into two parts. The first
l food imports
part is about safe methods, for example avoiding cross-
l prevention of food contamination and equipment
contamination, personal hygiene, cleaning, chilling and
contamination
cooking. The second part covers opening and closing
l training of food handlers
checks, proving methods are safe, recording safe methods,
l provision of clean water, sanitary facilities and washing
training records, supervision, stock control and the selection
facilities.
of suppliers and contractors.
For further information on food safety legislation visit:
Safer Food Better Business is available to download from
www.food.gov.uk.
www.food.gov.uk.
Similar systems have been developed in Scotland
(CookSafe) and Northern Ireland (Safe Catering).
Training
Food businesses must ensure that all staff who handle
food are supervised and instructed and/or trained in food
Due diligence hygiene appropriate to the work they do. The person
‘Due diligence’ can be used as defence under food safety responsible for the food safety management of a business
legislation when something relating to food safety goes must also be responsible for staff training.
wrong. It involves providing proof that a business took all
Appropriate training can take place in-house or with a
reasonable care and precaution, and did everything it could
training provider. Records of staff training must include the
to prevent food safety problems: that is, it exercised all due
date, level of the training and topics covered. All records of
diligence. To prove due diligence accurate and up-to-date
staff training must be kept for possible inspection.
written documents are essential. They should include:
l staff training records
l staff sickness records Environmental Health Officers
l temperature records (cooking and cold storage) Food safety standards and legislation is enforced in the UK
l pest control policy and audits by Environmental Health Officers (EHOs) and Environmental
l cleaning schedules and deep-clean reports Health Practitioners (EHPs).
l equipment maintenance records
Enforcement officers may visit food premises as a matter of
l CCP monitoring activities – changes made, corrective
routine, as a follow-up when problems have been identified
actions and recalls
or after a complaint. The frequency of visits depends on
l modifications to the HACCP system
the type of business and food being handled, possible
l customer complaints/investigation results
hazards within the business, the risk rating and any previous
l calibration of instruments, e.g. temperature probes
problems or convictions. Generally, businesses posing
l lists of suppliers (traceability of food).
a higher risk will be visited more frequently than those
considered low risk.
What the law says EHO/EHPs can enter a food business at any reasonable time
The latest laws of importance to food businesses took without previous notice or appointment, usually when the
effect from 1 January 2006. They set out the basic food business is open. The main purpose of these inspections is
safety requirements for all aspects of a food business, from to identify any possible risks from the food business and to
premises to personal hygiene of staff, with specific attention assess the effectiveness of the business’s own food safety
to actual temperatures relating to food. management systems, and also to identify any non-compliance
of regulations so this can be monitored and corrected.
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The role of the EHO/EHP is to: A Hygiene Prohibition Order prohibits a person (the
l offer professional food safety advice to food businesses owner/manager) from working in a food business.
on routine visits and provide useful information such as
Magistrates’ courts can impose fines of up to £5,000, a six-
leaflets and posters
month prison sentence or both. For serious offences, such
l advise on new food safety legislation
as knowingly selling food dangerous to health, magistrates
l investigate complaints about the business
could impose fines of up to £20,000. In a crown court
l ensure that food offered for sale is safe and fit for
unlimited fines and/or two years’ imprisonment can be
consumption
imposed.
l monitor food operations within a business and identify
possible sources of contamination
l ensure food safety law compliance The Food Standards Agency
l observe the effectiveness of the food safety The Food Standards Agency was established in 2000
management system ‘to protect public health from risks which may arise in
l deal with food-poisoning outbreaks connection with the consumption of food and otherwise
l advise on food safety training to protect the interest of customers in relation to food’. The
l deal with non-compliance by formal action/serving agency is committed to putting customers first, to being
notices. They have the power to: open and accessible, and to being an independent voice on
– close the business food-related matters.
– seize/remove food
– instigate prosecution Scores on the Doors
– seize records. Scores on the Doors is a strategy introduced by the Food
Standards Agency to raise food safety standards and
Notices and orders for non- reduce the incidence of food poisoning. When an EHO/
compliance EHP inspection has been carried out, a star rating will be
A Hygiene Improvement Notice will be served if the awarded ranging from 0 to 5 stars:
EHO/EHP believes that a food business does not comply Number of stars Rating
with regulations. The notice is served in writing and states ***** Excellent
the name and address of the business, what is wrong, why **** Very good
it is wrong, what needs to be done to put it right and the
*** Good
time in which this must be completed (usually not less than
14 days). ** Broadly compliant
* Poor
A Hygiene Emergency Prohibition Notice is served
none Very poor
if the EHO/EHP believes that there is an imminent risk to
health from the business. This would include serious issues
such as sewage contamination, lack of water supply, rodent The intention is that the given star rating will be placed in a
infestation, and so on. Serving this notice means immediate prominent position on the door or window of premises, but
closure of the business for three days, during which time it is not mandatory to do so.
the EHO/EHP must apply to magistrates for a Hygiene It is hoped that the Scores on Doors scheme will have a
Emergency Prohibition Order to keep the premises lasting, positive impact on food safety standards.
closed. Notices/orders must be displayed in a visible place
on the premises. The owner of the business must apply for
a Certificate of Satisfaction before they can reopen.
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Test yourself
1 Why should long hair be tied back and covered in the kitchen?
2. Describe how to wash your hands safely and give three examples of when
your hands must be washed when working with food.
3 There are certain illnesses that a food handler must report to their supervisor
before being involved with food. What are they?
4. When cleaning, what do each of the following do:
a detergent
b sanitiser
c disinfectant?
5 Pest control is important.
a Why must you keep pests out of food premises?
b Suggest three types of pests that could be found in food premises and
describe ways that you could keep each of them out.
6 Give four examples of foods that could cause an allergic reaction in some
people.
7 Give four examples of how you can avoid cross-contamination in a kitchen.
8 It is essential to keep food above 63 °C or below 5 °C when holding food for
service.
a Why is this important?
b What is the name given to this range of temperatures?
9 What are the temperatures you would recommend storing:
a dairy foods
b frozen fish
c fresh meat
d soft fruit
e flour?
10 All food businesses are required by law to have a food safety management
system.
a Why is it important to monitor hazards to food safety in a kitchen?
b State the key stages in the monitoring process when cooking a fresh
chicken for later reheating.
39
Point
Blade
Tip
Bolster
Handle Edge
Tang
Heel
Rivets
41
l Boning knife: a short-bladed knife with a pointed end l Meat cleavers (choppers): usually used for heavy
used for boning meat. The blade is strong and rigid (not chopping tasks, such as bones in meat. The heavy flat
flexible) in order to get close to the bones, cut away the blade allows this to be done more easily.
meat and manoeuvre between bones safely. l Secateurs: similar to scissors with two long, pointed
l Palette knife: a flat knife with a blunt, rounded end blades. Some secateurs have the handles set at an
blade. It is used for lifting and turning food, scraping angle to the blades to allow for easy and efficient use.
and spreading. It probably has most use in the pastry Secateurs have a variety of uses including cutting
section but is also used in other kitchen areas. through chicken joints and trimming whole fish.
l Turning knife: a small curve-bladed knife used for l Kitchen scissors: a wide range of uses including
shaping vegetables in a variety of ways. trimming fish, snipping herbs, cutting lengths from
l Carving knife and fork: a French carving knife has filo pastry, cutting paper to line tins and moulds, and
a long, thin blade and is also known as a tranchard. opening bags and packets safely.
Long strokes with the blade enables neat and efficient
carving of meat. A carving fork is two pronged, strong
enough to support meats for carving and also for lifting
them once carved.
Serrated knives
Serrated knives are used for slicing or for foods that are
softer on the inside than the outside, such as crusty bread or
A butcher’s saw
tomatoes. A serrated knife allows you to cut neat slices, so is
good for slicing bread and pastry items. The serrated blade is
used in long strokes with a light sawing action, which does
not compress the food. It can also be used to slice foods such
as meat or terrines into neat slices. Special palette knives are
also available with a serrated edge for slicing cakes, sponges
and other pastry goods. Small serrated knives can be used
for cutting tomatoes and soft fruits, and a small, pointed A meat cleaver
serrated knife may also be a cutlery item when serving steaks.
Serrated knifes are not usually sharpened in the kitchen but Materials used for knives
are sent to a specialist company for sharpening.
The materials used for knife blades include:
l Carbon steel: easy to sharpen and get a good edge,
but can rust and stain easily.
l Stainless steel: now very popular for chefs’ knives. It is
A palette knife softer than carbon steel so will need sharpening more
frequently but is resistant to rust stains.
l High-carbon stainless steel: a higher-grade stainless
steel with a high carbon content. These knives resist
rust and staining, and maintain their sharp edge for
A turning knife longer than standard stainless steel.
l Laminated blades are made with a hard steel and a
more brittle steel sandwiched together to combine
the advantages of a tougher blade that stays sharp for
A carving fork longer.
l Ceramic is the hardest material available for knife
blades and will hold a sharp edge for the longest time.
Other cutting equipment However, the blade can chip and may break if the knife
Other tools used for cutting in the kitchen include: is dropped. It also needs specialist sharpening. Ceramic
l Butchers’ saws: commonly used in butchery to saw knives tend to be lighter than steel and usually have
through meat bones; they have serrated blades. plastic handles.
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44
l Always make sure that knives and the cutting surface l When knives have been used on raw meat and poultry,
(such as chopping boards) are clean and sanitised make sure the knife is cleaned and disinfected before
before use to avoid possible cross-contamination. using on other tasks. Detergents used in cleaning
l Wash and dry knives thoroughly between using on will remove the grease but disinfectants or very high
different food types to avoid cross-contamination. temperatures are needed to kill bacteria.
Some kitchens have knives with colour-coded l When cleaning knives it is important to clean both
handles (along with chopping boards and other the handle and blade well. A dirty handle could
equipment) to use on foods for allergy sufferers. The contaminate the hands.
equipment intended for use in this way is usually l When you have finished working with knives, clean
purple. This separate equipment will help to avoid and dry them thoroughly before storing them safely.
cross-contamination with allergens, which could make Bacteria will multiply on wet or dirty knives.
an allergy sufferer seriously ill, but also remember that
The knife is probably the most important utensil for a
these items need to be cleaned and disinfected.
chef in the kitchen as it is essential for virtually all food
l Do not use the same cloth to clean knives between
preparation. A good sharp knife will help get the job done
tasks when you are preparing raw, high-risk or allergen-
more effectively and with greater ease. A good sharp knife
related foods.
is certainly safer and easier to use than a knife with a blunt
blade.
Test yourself
1 List a selection of knives that you would need to work in a large kitchen using
a range of foods.
2 Describe three straight-bladed knives and say what they are used for.
3 What is the best way to clean a knife after use? Why should knives be clean
and grease free?
4 Describe the safest way to carry a knife in the kitchen. How should it be stored
after use?
5 Why is it essential to clean a knife thoroughly between use on different foods?
6 Why is a sharp knife safer to use than a blunter knife?
7 What action can be taken with knives and other equipment to prevent allergic
reactions in customers?
8 What are the main uses for scissors and secateurs in the kitchen?
9 If you were preparing, cutting and filleting a selection of fish, which knives
would you need?
10 Suggest three pieces of equipment you could use to sharpen knives.
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47
48
Convenience stocks
Today many establishments use prepared stocks to save
time and labour, but also to reduce the food safety risks
associated with the preparation, production and storage of
stocks. These stocks are purchased as a chilled stock, frozen
or in a paste or a dry powder. Many of the fresh-chilled
products are of a very high quality.
Reducing Soups
Stock is placed over a fierce heat and is allowed to evaporate There are many ways to classify soup – a classic velouté
until the volume is reduced to give a more intense flavour. thickened with a liaison, a purée of lentils with ham hock
When cooking predominantly meat stocks, remember stock, a broth with a clear liquid, or even the crystal clarity
that they will contain collagen. This is the main fibrous of consommé. Up until 15 or 20 years ago, most soups were
component of skin, tendons, connective tissue and bones. If thickened by either purée or by roux. While hearty soups are
you have cooked at a higher heat (e.g. boiling), the collagen still with us today – for example, Scotch broth, minestrone,
content of the sauce will be high, giving you a viscous sauce bouillabaisse, chowder and many more – the foundation
earlier in the reduction process; due to the thickness of such of modern dining is a lighter approach, with a reduction in
a sauce, it is impossible to reduce it further without burning. flour and fat, offering a more sophisticated dish.
49
Dashi is the Japanese equivalent of consommé and Most soup making begins by preparing a stock. The
is made from giant seaweed (kombu), dried bonito underlying flavours of the foundation ingredients are then
and water. enhanced by the herbs and seasonings added. In many
cases, this flavour base begins by preparing a mixture of
Other types of soup include:
flavouring elements, cooked in a little fat or oil. Because of
l Vichyssoise: a simple, flavourful puréed potato and
their aromatic properties and flavours, most soups begin
leek soup, thickened with the potato itself. Traditionally
this phase with a combination of onion, garlic, leeks and
this is called leek and potato soup if served hot, and a
carrots (this is called a mirepoix or aromats). The resulting
little cream or crème fraiche may be added to give it
broth is the foundation of all soups.
richness; however, when served cold it is classified as
vichyssoise – if fat is added to this preparation the dish
would leave a fatty residue on the palate and offer a Quality points for ingredients
less-than-clear mouth feel. When making soups it is important to use fresh, quality
l Bisque: a very rich soup with a creamy consistency, ingredients that have been peeled, prepared and weighed
usually made of lobster or shellfish (crab, shrimp, etc.). as part of the mise-en-place.
l Bouillabaisse: a Mediterranean fish soup/stew made If you experience any problems with ingredients it is
of multiple types of seafood, olive oil, water and important to inform the supplier. Only use fresh, good-
seasonings such as garlic, onions, tomato and parsley. quality ingredients, otherwise the overall flavour of the
l Chowder: a hearty North American soup, usually with a finished soup will be impaired.
seafood base.
l Gazpacho: a Spanish tomato and vegetable soup
Weighing and measuring
served ice cold.
It is important to weigh every ingredient to determine
l Potage: a French term referring to a thick soup.
the exact flavour and consistency, but more importantly
to determine the exact nutritional content per portion.
Preparing and cooking soups Measuring the ingredients accurately will also result in the
Though the perfection of soups can take experience, the correct yield and less wastage.
basic principles of soup making are quite simple to follow.
50
Blending/liquidising and chopping Always use strong, thick-bottomed pans to cook soup to
Soups can be prepared using stick blenders, liquidisers and avoid scalding and browning.
food processors. These produce excellent purée soups with
a smooth consistency. Passing and straining
Conical strainers are used to pass soups to obtain a fine
For soups that require small cuts of vegetables, such as
consistency. Conical strainers came in a range of sizes, from
paysanne for minestrone and gros brunoise for Scotch broth,
fine (chinois) to medium. When passing the soup through
the vegetable cutting is usually done by hand, but there
a chinois, use a ladle to carefully pump the soup through.
are also machines that cut vegetables to the required size
available in the market. (For more information on vegetable
cuts, see Chapter 12.)
1 Slowly simmer vegetables and 2 Purée using a stick blender, 3 To ensure a smooth consistency,
seasonings with stock to develop liquidiser or food processor. pass the soup through a conical
flavours. strainer.
4 Use a ladle to carefully pump the
soup through.
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Sauces Spice-based
Some sauces contain a number of spices used to enhance
A sauce is a liquid that has been thickened by either:
dishes and to accompany products. Examples include
l beurre manié (kneaded butter)
chilli sauce, spicy tomato sauce, curry sauce and Chinese
l egg yolks
Szechwan sauce.
l roux
l cornflour, arrowroot or starch
l cream and/or butter added to reduced stock
Purée-based
l rice (in the case of some shellfish bisques) Purée-based sauces can be fruit based (for example, apple
l reducing cooking liquor or stock. sauce or cranberry sauce), vegetable based (for example,
tomato sauce) or herb based (for example, green sauce).
52
l Compound butter sauces: these are made by mixing l Brown roux: this is traditionally used for brown
the flavouring ingredients (for example, herbs) into (espagnole) sauce and soups, and is slightly browned in
softened butter, which can then be shaped into a roll the roux-making process.
2 cm in diameter, placed in wet greaseproof paper, foil
or cling film, hardened in a refrigerator and cut into Video: making a
0.5 cm slices when required. Examples include parsley blond roux and
a velouté
butter (chopped parsley and lemon juice), herb butter http://bit.ly/
(mixed herbs – chives, tarragon, fennel, dill – and lemon 1viPHtG
juice) and garlic butter (mashed to a paste). Compound
butters are served with grilled and some fried fish, and A boiling liquid should never be added to a hot roux as the
with grilled meats. result may be lumpy and the person making the sauce may
be scalded by the steam produced. If allowed to stand for a
Using alcohol in sauces time over a moderate heat, a sauce made with a roux may
Take great care when using alcohol in sauces. Alcohol become thin due to a chemical change (dextrinisation) in
must be used sparingly; it should not dominate the overall the flour.
flavour, but must blend in with the other ingredients. The Continental roux is a very easy and straightforward
alcohol must be cooked out and must not have a raw, harsh thickening agent that can be frozen and used as a quick
taste. Alcohol used correctly will enhance the flavour of the thickener during service or à la minute. Mix equal quantities
sauce and create pleasant combinations to the dishes. of flour and vegetable oil together to a paste and place in
the oven at 140 °C. Cook the mixture, mixing it in on itself
Quality points for sauces continually, until a biscuit texture is achieved. Remove and
allow to cool to room temperature. When it is cool enough
All sauces should be smooth and glossy in appearance,
to handle, form into a sausage shape using a double layer of
definite in taste and light in texture; the thickening medium
cling film. Chill, then freeze. To use, remove from the freezer
should be used in moderation.
and shave a little off the end of the log. Whisk it into the
It is important that the ingredients for preparing and boiling sauce (it is not necessary to add it slowly to prevent
cooking sauces are of the best quality, otherwise flavours lumping – this will not occur the flour is already cooked). Once
will be compromised. Wine or alcohol that is used must also the desired thickness has been achieved, pass and serve.
be of good quality otherwise the finished products will be
impaired. Beurre manié
Beurre manié is a paste made from equal quantities of soft
Thickening sauces butter and flour, which is then added to a simmering liquid
while whisking continuously to prevent lumping.
Roux
A roux is a combination of fat and flour that is cooked Egg yolks
together. There are three degrees to which a roux may be This is commonly known as a liaison and is traditionally
cooked: used to thicken a classic velouté. Both egg yolks and cream
l White roux: this is used for white (béchamel) sauce
are mixed together and added to the sauce/velouté off
and soups. Equal quantities of butter and flour are the boil; this mixture is intended to thicken, however it is
cooked together without colouring for a few minutes, essential to keep stirring it, otherwise the eggs will curdle.
to a sandy texture. Alternatively polyunsaturated Once thickening is achieved the sauce/velouté must be
vegetable margarine or vegetable oil can be used to served immediately. The liquid must not be allowed to boil
make a roux, using equal quantities of oil and flour. or simmer.
This does give a slack roux but enables the liquid to be
incorporated easily. Egg yolks are used in mayonnaise (page 577), hollandaise
l Blond roux: this is used for veloutés, tomato sauce and sauce (recipe 60) and custard sauces (page 558). Refer to
soups. Equal quantities of butter or vegetable oil and the appropriate recipe, though, as the yolks are used in a
flour are cooked for a little longer than a white roux, but different manner for each sauce. When making mayonnaise
without colouring, to a sandy texture. (where the yolks are not cooked) or hollandaise (where
temperatures remain low), it is advisable to use pasteurised
eggs for safety.
53
Test yourself
1 List the ingredients and describe the cooking methods for brown beef stock.
2 State four quality points you should look for in a white vegetable stock.
3 Give two examples of each of the following soups:
a purée
b cream
c clear
d broth.
5 Name two alternatives to cream when finishing a soup.
6 At what temperature should hot soup be served?
7 Describe how you would cook lobster bisque.
8 Describe how you would prepare and cook espagnole sauce.
9 Give an example of a dish with which chasseur sauce is traditionally served.
10 Describe how you should store stocks and sauces.
54
Stock recipes
1 White stock
Variation
White fungi stock: add 200–400 g white mushrooms,
stalks and trimmings (all well washed) to the recipe.
55
3 Brown stock
Ingredient 3 litres
Chicken carcass/wings 5 kg
Onions, peeled 1½
Carrots, peeled 2
Cloves of garlic, crushed 2
Leeks, washed and blemishes removed 1
Celery sticks 2
Bay leaf 1
Sprigs of thyme, small 1
Whole white peppercorns 5g
Water, cold 7 litres
56
1 Remove any excess fat from the chicken 4 Turn the heat off and allow the bones and
carcasses and wash off under cold water. vegetables to sink. Once this has happened, turn
2 Place all the bones into a pot that will hold all the the heat back on, skim and bring to just under a
ingredients, leaving 5 cm at the top to skim. simmer, making as little movement as possible
to create more of an infusion than a stock. Skim
3 Add all the other ingredients and cold water, and
continuously.
bring to a simmer; immediately skim all the fat that
rises to the surface. 5 Leave to simmer (infuse) for 12 hours then pass
through a fine sieve into a clean pan; reduce
down rapidly until you have about 3 litres
remaining.
5 Fish stock
Ingredient 2 litres
Fish bones, no heads, gills or roe (turbot, sole or brill 5 kg
bones are best)
Olive oil 100 ml
Onions, finely chopped 3
Leeks, finely chopped 3
Celery sticks, finely chopped 3
Fennel bulb, finely chopped 1
Dry white wine 350 ml
Parsley stalks 10
Thyme 3 sprigs
White peppercorns 15
Lemons, finely sliced 2
1 Wash off the bones in cold water for 1 hour. 4 Add the white wine and enough water to cover.
2 Heat the olive oil in a pan that will hold all the Bring to a simmer, skim off the impurities and add
ingredients and still have a 1 cm gap at the top the herbs, peppercorns and lemon. Turn off the
for skimming. Add all the vegetables and sweat heat.
without colour for 3 minutes. 5 Infuse for 25 minutes, then pass into another pan
3 Add the fish bones and sweat for a further and reduce by half. The stock is now ready for
3 minutes. use.
57
Ingredient 4 litres
approximately
Onions 300 g
Carrots 300 g
Celery 300 g
Leeks 300 g
Sunflower oil 180 ml
Tomatoes 150 g
Mushroom trimmings 150 g
Peppercorns 18
Water 4 litres
Yeast extract 15 g
7 Lamb jus
Ingredient 2 litres
Thyme bunch
Bay leaves, fresh 4
Garlic 2 bulbs
Red wine 1 litre
Lamb bones 2 kg
Veal bones 1 kg
White onions, peeled 6
Large carrots, peeled 8
Celery sticks 7
Leeks, chopped 4
Tomato purée 6 tbsp
58
1 Preheat the oven to 175 °C. Place the herbs, 3 Turn the heat off and allow the bones and
garlic and wine in a large, deep container. Place vegetables to sink. Once this has happened,
all the bones on to a roasting rack on top of the turn the heat back on and bring to just under a
container of herbs and wine, and roast in the simmer, making as little movement as possible to
oven for 50–60 minutes. When the bones are create more of an infusion than a stock.
completely roasted and have taken on a dark 4 Skim continuously. Leave to infuse for 12 hours,
golden-brown appearance, remove from oven. then pass through a fine sieve, place in the
2 Place all the ingredients in a large pot and cover blast chiller until cold and then in the refrigerator
with cold water. Put the pot on to the heat and overnight. Next day, reduce down rapidly, until
bring to the simmer; immediately skim all fat that you have about 2 litres remaining.
rises to the surface.
59
Soup recipes
1 Peel the onions, halve and slice finely. 7 Cut the flute (French loaf) into slices and toast on
2 Melt the butter in a thick-bottomed pan, add the both sides.
onions and garlic, and cook steadily over a good 8 Sprinkle the toasted slices of bread liberally on the
heat until cooked and well browned. soup.
3 Mix in the flour and cook over a gentle heat, 9 Sprinkle with grated cheese and brown under the
browning slightly. salamander.
4 Gradually mix in the stock, bring to the boil, skim 10 Place on a dish and serve.
and season.
5 Simmer for approximately 10 minutes until the
onion is soft. Correct the seasoning.
6 Pour into an earthenware tureen or casserole, or
individual dishes.
60
During cooking, the finely sliced onions first become translucent As the onions continue to cook, they begin to brown without
becoming crisp
When the onions are ready, they are well browned Cook in the flour, and finally the stock
61
10 Minestrone
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Cut the peeled and washed mixed vegetables into
paysanne.
Mixed vegetables (onion, leek, celery, 300 g 750 g
carrot, turnip, cabbage), peeled 2 Cook slowly without colour in the oil or butter in
Butter or oil 50 g 125 g the pan with a lid on.
White stock or water 0.5 litres 1.25 litres 3 Add the stock, bouquet garni and seasoning;
Bouquet garni 1 2 simmer for approximately 20 minutes.
Salt, pepper 4 Add the peas and the beans cut into diamonds
Peas 25 g 60 g
and simmer for 10 minutes.
French beans 25 g 60 g
5 Add the spaghetti in 2 cm lengths, the potatoes
cut into paysanne, the tomato purée and
Spaghetti 25 g 60 g
the tomatoes, and simmer gently until all the
Potatoes, peeled 50 g 125 g vegetables are cooked.
Tomato purée 1 tsp 2½ tsp
6 Meanwhile finely chop the fat bacon, parsley and
Tomatoes, skinned, deseeded, diced 100 g 250 g garlic, if using, and form into a paste.
Fat bacon (optional) 50g 125g 7 Mould the paste into pellets the size of a pea and
Parsley (optional) 50 g 125 g drop into the boiling soup.
Clove of garlic (optional) 1 2½ 8 Remove the bouquet garni, correct the seasoning.
9 Serve grated Parmesan cheese and croutons of
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,115 kJ 260 kcal 22.9 g 5.8 g 11.9 g 4.2 g 3.8 g 4.1 g
bread or slices of French bread (flutes) separately.
Using sunflower oil.
Healthy eating tips
l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or vegetable) to
lightly oil the pan. Drain off any excess after the frying
is complete and skim the fat from the finished dish.
l Season with the minimum amount of salt as the
bacon and cheese are high in salt.
62
Simmer the ingredients in the stock Add the pellets of paste to the soup
63
11 Scotch broth
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
655 kJ 157 kcal 7.8 g 3.1 g 4.9 g 2.7 g 16.6 g 1.6 g 0.2 g
1 Place the beef, free from fat, in a saucepan and 7 Remove the meat, allow to cool and cut from the
cover with cold water. bone, remove all fat and cut the meat into neat
2 Bring to the boil, then immediately wash off under dice the same size as the vegetables; return to
running water. the broth.
3 Clean the pan, replace the meat, cover with cold 8 Correct the seasoning, skim off all the fat, add the
stock, bring to the boil and skim. chopped parsley and serve.
4 Add the washed barley, simmer for 1 hour.
Healthy eating tips
5 Add the vegetables, bouquet garni and l Remove all fat from the meat.
seasoning. l Use only a small amount of salt.
l There are lots of healthy vegetables in this dish and
6 Skim when necessary; simmer for approximately
the addition of a large bread roll will increase the
30 minutes, until tender. starchy carbohydrate.
64
1 Gently cook all the sliced vegetables in the fat 6 Remove the bouquet garni; liquidise, blend or
under a lid, without colour. pass firmly through a sieve and then through a
2 Mix in the flour and cook slowly for a few minutes medium strainer.
without colour. Cool slightly. 7 Return to a clean pan, reheat and correct the
3 Gradually mix in the hot stock. Stir and bring to seasoning and consistency.
the boil.
Variation
4 Add the bouquet garni and season. l Instead of using the béchamel, use an additional
5 Simmer for approximately 45 minutes; skim when 250 ml of stock and then finish the soup with
necessary. 250 ml milk.
l Alternatively, do this with an additional 375 ml of stock
and finish with 125 ml of cream.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Cream, natural yoghurt or fromage 60 ml 150 ml
1,356 kJ 323 kcal 23.6 g 12.8 g 19.6 g 8.0 g 9.3 g 8.3 g frais
65
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1159 kJ 277 kcal 16.2 g 4.8 g 28.5 g 13.6 g 6.3 g 6.6 g 0.3 g
66
67
Note
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Pulses are the dried seeds of plants that form pods. Any
Pulses (soaked overnight if 200 g 500 g type of pulse can be made into soup, for example split
necessary) green and yellow peas, haricot beans and lentils.
White stock or water 1.5 litres 3.75 litres
Onions, chopped 50 g 125 g Healthy eating tips
Carrots, chopped 50 g 125 g l The fat and salt are reduced if the ham is omitted.
l Try lightly brushing the stale bread with olive oil and
Bouquet garni 1 2
oven-baking it with garlic and herbs. Alternatively,
Knuckle of ham or bacon (optional) 50 g 125 g serve with sippets.
Salt and pepper
Croutons
Variation
Stale bread 1 slice 2½ slices
Variations can be made with the addition of:
Butter or olive oil 50 g 125 g
l chopped fresh herbs (parsley, chervil, tarragon,
coriander, chives, etc.)
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l spices (e.g. garam masala)
728 kJ 177 kcal 1.3 g 0.2 g 32.0 g 3.3 g 11.3 g 3.6 g l crisp lardons of bacon
One portion (no croutons); one portion (with croutons) l sippets (small, thin pieces of bread, toasted or oven-
provides: 1,223 kJ/291 kcal energy; 111.7 g fat; 6.8 g saturated baked).
fat; 36.5 g carbohydrates; 3.6 g sugar; 12.1 g protein; 3.8 g fibre.
68
69
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Gently sweat the onions and celery, without
colouring, in the butter or oil.
Onion, sliced 50 g 125 g
2 Remove from the heat, mix in the flour, return to
Celery, sliced 50 g 125 g
a low heat and cook out, without colouring, for a
Butter or oil 50 g 125 g
few minutes. Cool.
Flour 50 g 125 g
3 Gradually add the hot stock. Stir to the boil.
White stock (preferably chicken) 1 litre 2.5 litres
4 Add the well-washed asparagus trimmings, or the
Asparagus stalk trimmings 200 g 500 g tin of asparagus, and bouquet garni. Season.
or
5 Simmer for 30–40 minutes, then remove bouquet
Tin of asparagus 150 g 325 g garni.
Bouquet garni 1 2 6 Liquidise and pass through a strainer.
Salt, pepper
7 Return to a clean pan, reboil, correct seasoning
Milk or cream 250 ml or 625 ml or and consistency. (Milk with a little cornflour can
125 ml 300 ml
be added to adjust the consistency.)
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
8 Add the milk or cream and serve.
919 kJ 223 kcal 13.1 g 8.0 g 18.9 g 8.8 g 8.4 g 2.5 g
70
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Cook the shallots, leeks and garlic in the oil for a
few minutes, without colour.
Shallots, peeled and chopped 2 5
(small mirepoix) 2 Add the celery and cook for another few minutes
Leeks, washed and chopped 1 2½ until starting to soften.
(small mirepoix)
3 Add the flour and mix well, then throw in the
Cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped 2 5 spinach and mix around. Add the milk and
Corn oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp vegetable stock slowly, ensuring there are no
Celery sticks, washed and chopped 4 10 lumps.
(small mirepoix)
4 Stir continuously, bring to a simmer, then switch
Flour 15 g 35 g off and remove from heat. Cover and leave for a
Fresh spinach, well washed 500 g 1.25 kg few minutes.
Milk 600 ml 1.5 litres 5 Blend until smooth in a food processor. Check
Vegetable stock 600 ml 1.5 litres seasoning and serve.
Salt, to taste
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
886 kJ 214 kcal 12.7 g 4.7 g 15.1 g 11.3 g 10.1 g 6.1 g 0.3 g
71
Video: making a
purée soup
http://bit.ly/
17qT0U8
72
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Place the ham hock, onion and carrot in a pan
and cover with about 3 litres of water.
Ham hock 320 g 800 g
2 Bring to the boil and then turn down to a slow
Onion, peeled 25 g 60 g
simmer. (When the hock is cooked, the centre
Whole carrot, peeled ½ 1¼
bone will slide out in one smooth motion.)
Baby shallots 1 2½
3 Slice the shallots, leek and celery into 1 cm dice.
Leeks 50 g 125 g
4 Heat a pan with the oil, add the vegetables and
Celery 50 g 125 g cook until they are slightly coloured; add the
Oil 40 ml 100 ml lentils and cover them with the ham stock.
Red lentils 200 g 500 g 5 Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down to a
Cooking liquid from the hock 1 litre 2.5 litres very slow simmer.
Milk, cream or crème fraiche 120 ml 300 ml 6 Cook until all the lentils have broken down.
7 Allow to cool for 10 minutes and then purée until
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
smooth.
1,807 kJ 432 kcal 71.4 g 43.9 g 6.7 g 1.5 g 5.3 g 1.5 g
8 Correct the consistency as necessary, and finish
with boiled milk, cream or crème fraiche.
Variation
Meat-free version: omit the ham hock and use a
vegetable stock or water instead of the cooking liquid.
73
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Melt the butter or heat the oil in a thick-bottomed
pan.
Butter or oil 25 g 60 g
2 Add the onion and leek; cook for a few minutes
Onion, peeled and sliced 50 g 125 g
without colour with the lid on.
White of leek, washed and sliced 50 g 125 g
3 Add the stock or water, the potatoes and the
White stock or water 1 litre 2.5 litres
bouquet garni. Season.
Potatoes, peeled and sliced 400 g 1.25 kg
4 Simmer for approximately 30 minutes. Remove
Bouquet garni 1 2 the bouquet garni and skim off all fat.
Salt and pepper
5 Liquidise or pass the soup firmly through a sieve
Parsley, chopped then pass it through a medium conical strainer.
Croutons 6 Return to a clean pan and reboil. Correct the
Stale bread 1 slice 2½ slices seasoning and consistency.
Butter, margarine or oil 50 g 125 g 7 Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.
8 Serve fried or toasted croutons separately.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,063 kJ 253 kcal 15.7 g 9.8 g 26.1 g 2.1 g 3.6 g 2.9 g
Healthy eating tips
l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or vegetable).
Lightly oil the pan and drain off any excess after the
frying is complete.
l Season with the minimum amount of salt.
l Toast the croutons instead of frying them.
74
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Pick off 12 neat leaves of watercress and plunge
into a small pan of boiling water for 1–2 seconds.
Butter or oil 25 g 60 g
Refresh under cold water immediately; these
Onion, peeled and sliced 50 g 125 g
leaves are to garnish the finished soup.
White of leek, sliced 50 g 125 g
2 Melt the butter or heat the oil in a thick-bottomed
White stock or water 1 litre 2.5 litres pan.
Potatoes, peeled and sliced 400 g 1 kg 3 Add the peeled and washed sliced onion and
Watercress small bunch small bunch leek, cook for a few minutes without colour with
Bouquet garni the lid on.
Salt, pepper 4 Add the stock, the peeled, washed and sliced
Parsley, chopped potatoes, the rest of the watercress, including the
Croutons stalks, and the bouquet garni. Season.
Stale bread 1 slice 2½ slices 5 Simmer for approximately 30 minutes. Remove
the bouquet garni, skim off all fat.
Butter, margarine or oil 50 g 125 g
6 Liquidise or pass the soup firmly through a sieve
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium then pass through a medium conical strainer.
583 kJ 139 kcal 5.5 g 3.3 g 21.0 g 3.8 g 2.7 g 3.4 g 0.1 g
7 Return to a clean pan, reboil, correct the
Using butter.
seasoning and consistency, and serve.
8 Garnish with watercress.
9 Serve fried or toasted croutons separately.
75
1 Sweat the sliced onion and leek without colour in 4 Check seasoning. Note that seasoning needs to
the butter. Cook until very tender. reflect the serving temperature.
2 Add the potatoes and bring quickly to the boil 5 Serve cold with whipped cream and chopped
with the water or vegetable stock. chives.
3 Liquidise in food processor and allow to cool.
25 Gazpacho
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
861 kJ 203 kcal 2.7 g 0.8 g 40.5 g 38.7 g 6.7 g 12.5 g 3.2 g
76
26 Tomato soup
77
1 Core and deseed the peppers and halve the 5 Place the butter or oil in a pan, add the onions
tomatoes. and carrots and fry gently for 5 minutes.
2 Lightly sprinkle with oil and place on a tray into a 6 Add the stock, peppers and tomatoes and bring
hot oven or under a grill until the pepper skins are to the boil.
blackened. 7 Simmer for 30 minutes, correct the seasoning
3 Allow the peppers to cool in a plastic bag. and blend in a food processor until smooth.
4 Remove the skins and slice the flesh. 8 Add crème fraiche and basil leaves torn into
pieces, and serve with croutons.
78
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
638 kJ 152 kcal 4.6 g 0.6 g 21.9 g 8.5 g 7.0 g 9.4 g 0.5 g
79
30 Pea velouté
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
984 kJ 237 kcal 17.8 g 9.6 g 12.2 g 5.5 g 7.7 g 6.9 g 0.1 g
1 Blanch the peas in a small pan of boiling water for 5 Cool the mixture slightly, then transfer to a food
3 minutes, then drain. processor and liquidise until very smooth – this
2 Heat the oil in a large saucepan and cook the may take a while. At this point, the soup can
shallots without letting them colour. be cooled completely and stored in an airtight
container in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
3 Add the peas to this pan, and cook for a further
2–3 minutes, again without colouring. 6 Add the cream and butter just before serving.
4 Add the milk, bring to a simmer and cook until the
peas are tender.
31 Pumpkin velouté
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,883 kJ 689 kcal 71.4 g 43.9 g 6.7 g 1.5 g 5.3 g 1.5 g 3.0 g
1 Sweat the shallots in the butter, without colour, 3 Add the chicken stock, bring to the boil, simmer
until cooked and soft. for 5 minutes.
2 Add the garlic, pumpkin, Parmesan and truffle oil. 4 Liquidise, pass, correct the seasoning and serve
Correct the seasoning and cook for 5 minutes. hot. Blast chill if to be stored.
80
1 Thoroughly mix the beef, salt, egg 4 Place over a gentle heat and 9 Remove all fat, using both sides
white and a quarter of the cold bring slowly to the boil, stirring of 8 cm square pieces of kitchen
stock in a thick-bottomed pan. occasionally. paper.
2 Peel, wash and finely chop the 5 Allow to boil rapidly for 5–10 10 Correct the seasoning and colour,
vegetables. seconds. Give a final stir. which should be a delicate amber.
3 Add to the beef with the remainder 6 Lower the heat so that the 11 Degrease again, if necessary.
of the stock, the bouquet garni consommé is simmering very Bring to the boil and serve.
and the peppercorns. gently.
7 Cook for 1½–2 hours without
stirring.
8 Strain carefully through a double
muslin.
81
1 Dry-fry the pork or bacon in a thick-bottomed 4 Add the chopped clams and their juice, the cream
saucepan for about 3 minutes, stirring constantly and thyme, and heat until almost boiling. Season
until a thin film of fat covers the bottom of the pan. with salt and pepper.
2 Stir in the chopped onion and cook gently until a 5 Correct the seasoning, stir in the softened butter
light golden brown. and serve, dusting each soup bowl with a little
3 Add the water and potatoes, bring to the boil and paprika.
simmer gently until the potatoes are cooked but The traditional accompaniment is salted cracker
not mushy. biscuits. An obvious variation would be to use scallops
in place of clams.
82
34 Prawn bisque
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Heat the oil and the butter. Add the prawns and
cook for 3–4 minutes on a moderately high heat.
Oil 50 ml 125 ml
2 Sprinkle in the flour and cook for a further
Butter 30 g 75 g
2–3 minutes.
Unshelled prawns 250 g 625 g
3 Add the tomato purée and cook for a further
Flour 20 g 50 g
2 minutes.
Tomato purée 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
4 Meanwhile, bring the nage up to a simmer and,
Shellfish nage (4 portions) 1 litre 2.5 litres once the tomato purée has been cooked in,
Fish stock 150 ml 375 ml slowly add to the prawn mix, being mindful that
Whipping cream 120 ml 300 ml you have formed a roux; stir in the fish stock to
Dry sherry 75 ml 180 ml prevent lumping.
Paprika, pinch 5 Once all the stock has been added, bring to the
Seasoning
boil and simmer for 3–4 minutes.
Chives, chopped 6 Pass through a fine sieve, return the shells to the
pan and pound to extract more flavour and more
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
colour.
1,578 kJ 381 kcal 31.2 g 13.0 g 8.2 g 4.0 g 12.9 g 0.8 g 1.0 g
7 Pour over the fish stock, bring to the boil, then
pass this back on to the already passed soup.
8 Bring to the boil, add the cream and sherry,
correct the seasoning and served with chopped
chives.
83
Sauce recipes
Professional tip
Add a little blended cornflour prior to heating to stabilise
the sauce.
84
37 Parsley sauce
Professional tip
Add a little cornflour prior to heating to stabilise the
sauce.
85
39 Soubise
Note
This recipe, like mornay sauce and parsley sauce
(Recipes 37 and 38) uses sauce flour to thicken the
sauce, rather than a traditional roux base. This is a
simpler method and produces a lower fat content.
1 Cook the onions without colouring them, either by 3 Place the milk in a suitable saucepan, gradually
boiling or sweating in butter. whisk in the sauce flour. Bring slowly to the boil
2 The milk may be first infused with a studded until the sauce has thickened.
onion clouté, carrot and a bouquet garni. Allow to 4 Add the onions, season, simmer for approximately
cool. 5–10 minutes.
5 Blitz well. Pass through a strainer.
40 Suprême sauce
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1339 kJ 322 kcal 25.2 g 15.3 g 21.1 g 1.8 g 4.1 g 1.6 g 0.2 g
Using butter.
86
1 Melt the fat or oil in a thick-bottomed pan. This sauce can be served hot with boiled chicken,
2 Add the flour and mix in. Cook to a sandy texture vol-au-vonts, etc., and can also be used for white
over a gentle heat, without colouring. chaud-froid sauce. The traditional stock base is a good
chicken stock.
3 Allow the roux to cool, then gradually add the
boiling stock. Stir until smooth and boiling.
Professional tip
4 Add the mushroom trimmings. Simmer for Once the liaison has been added, do not reboil this
approximately 1 hour. sauce.
5 Pass through a final conical strainer.
6 Finish with a liaison of the egg yolk, cream and
lemon juice. Serve immediately.
41 Mushroom sauce
87
42 Ivory sauce
43 Aurora sauce
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
247 kJ 59 kcal 4.0 g 1.9 g 3.0 g 2.7 g 3.1 g 0.4 g 0.0 g
88
1 Place the velouté in a suitable saucepan and 6 Add a little of the hot sauce to this mix; whisk
bring to the boil. well.
2 Add the mushroom trimmings. Allow to simmer 7 Return to the main sauce and stir. Do NOT allow
for 10 minutes. to re-boil.
3 Add the tomato purée; mix well. 8 Finish with lemon juice.
4 Strain through a fine chinois. Serve with poached chicken or poached eggs. If
serving with poached or steamed fish use fish velouté.
5 In a basin mix the egg yolks and cream.
44 Chasseur sauce
1 Melt the butter or heat the oil in a small sauteuse. May be served with fried steaks, chops, chicken, etc.
2 Add the shallots and cook gently for 2–3 minutes
without colour. Healthy eating tips
l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or vegetable).
3 Add the garlic and the mushrooms, cover and Lightly oil the pan.
cook gently for 2–3 minutes. l Skim the fat from the finished dish.
l Season with the minimum amount of salt.
4 Strain off the fat.
5 Add the wine and reduce by half. Add the
tomatoes.
6 Add the demi-glace; simmer for 5–10 minutes.
7 Correct the seasoning. Add the tarragon and
parsley.
89
Professional tip
The sauce should have a background flavour of white
wine, with a sharp after taste from the cayenne pepper.
The sauce may also be improved with the addition of
15 g of soft butter before serving.
46 Robert sauce
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
401 kJ 96 kcal 5.7 g 3.1 g 8.3 g 6.5 g 2.5 g 0.4 g 0.2 g
Using butter.
90
1 Melt the fat or oil in a small sauteuse. May be served with fried sausages and burgers or
2 Add the onions. Cook gently without colour. grilled pork chops.
3 Add the vinegar and reduce completely.
Healthy eating tips
4 Add the demi-glace; simmer for 5–10 minutes. l Use unsaturated oil (sunflower or olive). Lightly oil
5 Remove from the heat and add the mustard, the pan and drain off any excess after the frying is
complete. Skim the fat from the finished dish.
diluted with a little water and the sugar; do not
l Season with the minimum amount of salt.
boil.
6 Skim and correct the seasoning.
47 Piquant sauce
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
151 kJ 36 kcal 1.3 g 0.5 g 3.0 g 1.3 g 2.4 g 0.7 g 0.0 g
91
48 Madeira sauce
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
365 kJ 88 kcal 6.4 g 3.7 g 3.5 g 1.4 g 2.1 g 0.3 g 0.1 g
Variation
Dry sherry or port wine may be substituted for Madeira
(and the sauce renamed accordingly).
92
50 Italian sauce
Using butter.
1 Melt the fat or oil in a small sauteuse. 4 Add the demi-glace, ham and tomatoes. Simmer
2 To make a duxelle, add the shallots and cook for 5–10 minutes.
gently for 2–3 minutes. 5 Correct the seasoning; add the chopped herbs.
3 Add the mushrooms and cook gently for a further
2–3 minutes.
93
52 Beef jus
Ingredient 1 litre
Mushrooms, finely sliced 750 g
Butter 100 g
Shallots, finely sliced 350 g
Beef trim, diced 350 g
Sherry vinegar 100 ml
Red wine 700 ml
Chicken stock 500 ml
Beef stock 1 litre
94
1 Caramelise the mushrooms in foaming butter, the vinegar, then add to the pan with the beef,
strain, then put aside in pan. shallots and mushrooms in it.
2 Caramelise the shallots in foaming butter, strain, 5 In a separate pan, reduce the wine by half and
then put aside in pan. add to the main pan.
3 In another pan, caramelise the beef trim until 6 Add the stock, then reduce to sauce consistency.
golden brown. 7 Pass through a sieve, then chill and store until
4 Place the mushrooms, shallots and beef trim in needed.
one of the pans. Deglaze the other two pans with
Ingredient 1 litre
Chicken stock 600 ml
Lamb jus 600 ml
Chicken wings, chopped small 300 g
Vegetable oil 60 ml
Shallots, sliced 100 g
Butter 50 g
Tomatoes, chopped 200 g
White wine vinegar 40 ml
Red wine vinegar 75 ml
Tarragon 1 tsp
Chervil 1 tsp
1 Put the jus and stock in a pan and reduce to 5 Ensure the bottom of the pan is clean. Add the
1 litre. reduced stock/jus and simmer for 15 minutes.
2 Roast the chicken wings in oil until slightly golden. 6 Pass through a sieve, then reduce to sauce
3 Add the shallots and butter, and cook until lightly consistency.
browned (do not allow the butter to burn). 7 Remove from the heat and infuse with the
4 Strain off the butter and return the bones to the aromats for 5 minutes.
pan; deglaze with the vinegar and add tomatoes. 8 Pass through a chinois and then muslin cloth.
95
Ingredient 1 litre
Shallots, sliced 150 g
Butter 50 g
Garlic, halved 10 g
Red wine vinegar 100 ml
Red wine 250 ml
Chicken stock 350 ml
Lamb or beef jus 250 ml
Bay leaves 2
Sprig of thyme 1
1 Caramelise the shallots in foaming butter until 4 When everything is done, combine and simmer
golden, adding the garlic at the end. for 20 minutes.
2 Strain through a colander and then put back into 5 Pass through a sieve and reduce to sauce
the pan and deglaze with the vinegar. consistency.
3 Reduce the red wine by half along with the 6 Infuse the aromats for 5 minutes.
stock and jus, at the same time as colouring the 7 Pass through muslin cloth and store until needed.
shallots.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
309 kJ 74 kcal 3.9 g 1.5 g 3.3 g 2.7 g 6.2 g 1.3 g 0.1 g
96
1 Chop the bones and brown in the oven, or brown 9 Return the joint to the stove and brown carefully;
in a little oil on top of the stove in a frying pan. deglaze with the brown stock.
Drain off all the fat. 10 Allow to simmer for a few minutes.
2 Place the bones in a saucepan with the stock or 11 Correct the colour and seasoning. Strain and
water. skim off all fat.
3 Bring to the boil, skim and allow to simmer.
4 Add the lightly browned vegetables, which may Professional tip
be fried in a little fat in a frying pan or added to For preference, use beef bones for roast beef gravy and
the bones when partly browned. the appropriate bones for lamb, veal, mutton and pork.
Variation
Add a little rosemary, thyme or lavender.
97
57 Apple sauce
Ingredient 8 portions
Cooking apples 400 g
Sugar 50 g
Butter or margarine 25 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
276 kJ 65 kcal 2.6 g 1.6 g 11.0 g 11.0 g 0.2 g 1.1 g 0.0 g
Using butter.
1 Sweat the carrots, celery and garlic in the oil and Chicken stock 750 g
butter. Juniper berries 2
2 Add the thyme, bay leaf and tomato purée, and Cream 75 g
cook for 5 minutes. Gastric (50/50 sherry vinegar and sugar, heated to 5g
dissolve the sugar)
3 Add the plum tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes.
4 Add the chicken stock and juniper berries, reduce
by a third.
5 Remove the mirepoix. Strain through a chinois.
6 Finish with the cream, bring to the boil and blitz.
7 Season with salt and gastric.
98
59 Cranberry sauce
Ingredient 8 portions
Cranberries 400 g
Water 100 ml
Sugar 50 g
Variation
Half orange juice and half water, plus some grated
orange zest, may be used. Alternatively, use half orange
juice and half port wine.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
138 kJ 32 kcal 0.1 g 0.0 g 8.3 g 8.3 g 0.2 g 1.9 g 0.0 g
60 Hollandaise sauce
99
Note Faults
Egg-based sauces should not be kept warm for more If you add oil or butter too fast when making hollandaise
than two hours. After this time, they should be thrown or mayonnaise, the sauce may curdle because the
away. They are best made fresh to order. lecithin has had insufficient time to coat the droplets.
This can be rectified by adding the broken sauce to
more egg yolks.
Variation
l Mousseline sauce – a hollandaise base with lightly
whipped cream.
l Maltaise sauce – a hollandaise base with lightly
grated zest and juice of one blood orange.
61 Béarnaise sauce
Note
Egg-based sauces should not be kept warm for more
than two hours. After this time, they should be thrown
away. They are best made fresh to order.
100
62 Salsa verde
Ingredient 8 portions
Mint, coarsely chopped 1 tbsp
Parsley, coarsely chopped 3 tbsp
Capers, coarsely chopped 3
Clove of garlic (optional) 1
Dijon mustard 1 tsp
Lemon, juice of ½
Extra virgin olive oil 120 ml
Salt
Per tablespoon.
Ingredient 8 portions
Ripe tomatoes, skinned, deseeded, chopped 400 g
Cucumber, peeled, chopped ½
Spring onions, chopped 6
Fresh basil, chopped 1 tbsp
Fresh parsley, chopped 1 tbsp
Olive oil 3 tbsp
Lemon or lime, juice of 1
Salt and pepper
101
Ingredient 8 portions
Ripe avocado, peeled and diced 1
Ripe tomatoes, peeled, deseeded and diced 3
Shallot, peeled and cut into rings 1
Fresh coriander, chopped 1 tsp
Pine kernels, toasted 10 g
Cucumber, diced 25 g
Lemon or lime, juice of 1
Virgin olive oil 3 tbsp
Salt and pepper to taste
Note
Usually served with poached fish and certain vegetables
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre (e.g. blue trout, salmon, asparagus, sea kale).
388 kJ 94 kcal 10.3 g 6.5 g 0.1 g 0.1 g 0.1 g 0.0 g
102
Ingredient 8 portions
Horseradish 25 g
Vinegar or lemon juice 1 tbsp
Salt, pepper
Cream or crème fraiche, lightly whipped 125 ml
Professional tip
It is essential to blend the ingredients without over-
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium mixing them, in order to get a good flavour.
135 kJ 33 kcal 3.0 g 1.9 g 0.7 g 0.6 g 0.7 g 0.3 g 0.0 g
Using cream.
103
68 Gribiche sauce
Ingredient 500 g
Hard-boiled eggs, sieved 2
Vegetable oil 325 ml
French mustard 1 tsp
White wine vinegar 100 ml
Capers, chopped 30 g
Gherkins, chopped 30 g
Parsley, chopped ½ tsp
Chives, chopped ½ tsp
Basil, chopped ½ tsp
Seasoning
1 Place the sieved egg yolks in a basin and add the 4 When the emulsion is formed, add the remainder
mustard and vinegar. of the ingredients and season.
2 Whisk together with a balloon whisk. Serve with steamed fish, fried fish, cold meats, chicken
and gammon.
3 Slowly add the oil, whisking continuously.
104
Eggs are a very versatile ingredient and are used extensively special antibacterial properties, which, under normal
in hors d’oeuvres, meat and poultry dishes, soups, pasta, circumstances, prevent the growth and multiplication
egg dishes, salads, fish dishes, sweets and pastries, sauces of micro-organisms that have entered the shell. The yolk
and savouries. They are useful as a main dish as they provide is rich in nutrients and is the part of the egg that is most
the energy, fat, minerals and vitamins needed for growth vulnerable to micro-organisms.
and repair of the body.
Egg yolks are high in saturated fat, while egg whites are
Fried, scrambled, poached and boiled eggs, and omelettes, made up of protein and water.
are mainly served at breakfast, but a variety of egg dishes
Air sac Blastodisc
may also be served for lunch, high tea, supper and snacks.
Chalaza Shell Cuticle
Most egg products are available in liquid, frozen or
spray-dried form. Whole eggs are used primarily for
cake production, where their foaming and coagulation
properties are required. Egg whites are used for meringues
and light sponges, where their foaming property is crucial.
105
106
Test yourself
1 State four quality points to look for when buying fresh eggs.
2 Describe the process for cooking a poached egg.
3 State what you could do when preparing and cooking scrambled eggs to
make the dish healthier.
4 At what temperature should egg dishes be held for service?
5 How should an egg dish not for immediate use be stored?
107
Egg recipes
Method 1 (soft)
1 Place the eggs in cold water and bring to the boil.
2 Simmer for 2–2½ minutes, then remove from the
water.
3 Serve at once in an egg cup.
108
Allow 1 or 2 eggs per portion. If high temperatures or a long cooking time are used to
cook eggs, iron in the yolk and sulphur compounds in
1 Plunge the eggs into a pan of boiling water. the white are released to form an unsightly blackish ring
2 Reboil and simmer for 8–10 minutes. around the yolk. Stale eggs will also show a black ring
round the yolk.
3 Refresh until cold under running water.
4 Remove the shell carefully if required.
Professional tip
To prepare an excellent fried egg, it is essential to use
a fresh high-quality egg, to maintain a controlled low
heat and to use a high-quality fat (butter or oil, such as
sunflower oil).
109
Eggs 6–8 15–20 If scrambled eggs are cooked too quickly or for too long
the protein will toughen, the eggs will discolour because
Milk (optional) 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
of the iron and sulphur compounds being released, and
Salt, pepper syneresis (separation of water from the eggs) will occur.
Butter or oil 50 g 125 g This means that they will be unpleasant to eat. The
heat from the pan will continue to cook the eggs after
it has been removed from the stove; therefore, the pan
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,105 kJ 263 kcal 22.9 g 8.7 g 0.5 g 0.5 g 13.9 g 0.0 g
should be removed from the heat just before the eggs
are cooked.
Using hard margarine instead of butter.
6 Eggs Benedict
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3910 kJ 943 kcal 77.0 g 37.8 g 24.8 g 2.2 g 39.2 g 1.4 g 2.1 g
110
1 Bring the cooking medium to a slight simmer. 6 Reheat the bacon and place on top of the
2 Crack an egg into a cup and carefully slide it into muffins, then top with the drained eggs.
the hot poaching liquid. Quickly repeat with all the 7 To finish, lightly spoon over a generous helping of
eggs. warm hollandaise sauce and serve immediately,
3 Poach the eggs for 3 minutes, turning them or serve the hollandaise separately.
occasionally with a spoon, until the whites are
firm. Note
4 Using a slotted spoon, remove the eggs and The cooking bath must be deep and must have a
transfer to a kitchen towel. Lightly dab the eggs minimum of 15 per cent distilled or white wine vinegar
added.
with the towel to remove any excess water.
5 While the eggs are poaching, butter the muffins
and place two halves on each plate.
7 Eggs en cocotte
Variation
l Half a minute before the cooking is completed, add 1
tsp of cream to each egg and complete the cooking.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions l When cooked, add 1 tsp of jus-lié to each egg.
l Place diced cooked chicken, mixed with cream, in the
Butter 25 g 60 g
bottom of the cocottes; break the eggs on top of the
Eggs 4 10 chicken and cook.
Salt, pepper l As above, using tomato concassé in place of chicken.
111
Note
A sur le plat dish is a shallow porcelain dish used for
cooking and serving eggs.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
875 kJ 211 kcal 16.9 g 6.3 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 14.8 g 0.0 g 0.2 g
9 Scotch eggs
1 Flatten out an oval of the sausage 2 Flour the egg and wrap the meat 3 Dip in flour, then beaten egg.
meat mixture. around it until it is completely
covered.
113
1 Whisk the eggs until the yolks and 2 Move the mixture continuously 3 Carefully tip the omelette out of
whites are combined. while it cooks. the pan.
114
11 Spanish omelette
Ingredient 1 portion
Eggs 2–3
Salt, pepper
Butter, or oil 10 g
Tomato concassé 50 g
Onions, cooked 100 g
Red pepper, diced 100 g
Parsley, chopped
When the butter is foaming, add the egg mixture The omelette is tipped out flat
115
116
118
119
Peas Always discard the soaking water, rinse the pulses and cook
l Blue: also known as marrowfat peas; pleasant flavour, them in fresh water without any salt (salt toughens the
floury texture, retain shape when cooked. skins and makes for longer cooking). Changing the water
l Chickpeas: shaped like hazelnuts, they have a tasty will also help to reduce the flatulence some people suffer
nutty flavour when cooked. Chickpeas are used all over after eating pulses. Adding a pinch of aniseed, caraway, dill
the world in dishes such as the Indian kabli chana or or fennel seeds is also supposed to help with this.
Spanish caldo gallego. Chickpeas are a key ingredient of Dried kidney beans need to be cooked carefully – soak them
hummus – a traditional Greek dip of cooked chickpeas, for at least eight hours. After soaking, drain and rinse them,
tahini (sesame seed paste), oil and garlic. They can be discarding the soaking water. Put them into a pan with cold
bought and soaked from dried, but canned chickpeas water to cover and bring to the boil – the beans must be
do just as well for most recipes. boiled for 10 minutes to destroy toxins; after this, simmer
l Split green: a sweeter variety than the blue pea; cook until cooked (approximately 45–60 minutes). The beans
to a purée easily. should have an even, creamy texture throughout – if the
l Split yellow: cook to a purée easily. centre is still hard and white, they require longer cooking.
Both yellow and green split peas are used for vegetable Soybeans should be soaked for at least 12 hours, drained
purées and soups. and rinsed then covered with fresh water and brought to
the boil. Soybeans should be boiled for the first hour of
Lentils cooking; they can then be simmered for the remaining two
Lentils, varying in size and colour, can form a nutritious basis to three hours that it takes to cook them.
for a meal. Larger brown or green lentils retain their shape
during cooking and are particularly good in soups. Red and Health and safety
yellow lentils cook down well, can be puréed, and are used It is not safe to eat raw or undercooked kidney beans or
a great deal in Indian cooking (such as in a spicy dhal). Tiny soybeans.
green puy lentils have a distinctive flavour and also keep
their shape and colour when cooked. When preparing pulses and lentils, cook them in sparkling
l Orange: several types, which vary in size and shade, bottled water. The sparkling motion helps ensure even
and may be sold whole or split. cooking through momentum; the reason for using bottled
l Green or continental: retain shape after cooking, water over tap water is the reduced calcium. In hard-water
available in small or large varieties. areas there is a lot of calcium, which blocks the pores of
l Yellow: of Asian origin, often used as a dhal pulses, causing beans to ‘boil in their jackets’ and burst,
accompaniment to curry dishes. making the pulses undesirable. Bottled water allows the
l Red: purée easily, used for soups and stews, etc. fluid to pass through the tiny pores and cook evenly.
l Indian brown: red lentils from which the seed coat has
not been removed; they purée easily.
l Puy: dark French lentils, which vary in size; they retain Storage
their shape when cooked and are considered the best One advantage of dried pulses is that they store very well
of their type. for long periods if kept in a dry, airtight container away from
l Dhal: the Hindi word for dried peas and beans; also the light. However, it is best to eat them as fresh as possible.
name of a spicy lentil dish. Pulses toughen on storage and older ones will take longer
to cook.
l Store fresh pulses in a refrigerator at a temperature
Preparing and cooking pulses below 5 °C.
Allow about 55 g dry weight per person – once soaked and l Store frozen pulses in a freezer at a temperature below
cooked they will at least double in weight. −18 °C.
Most dried pulses need soaking for several hours before l Store dried pulses in clean airtight containers off the
they can be cooked; exceptions are all lentils, green and floor in the dry store.
yellow split peas, black-eyed beans and mung beans. l Unpack tinned pulses and check that the tins are sound
Soaking times vary from 4 to 12 hours. It is usually most and undamaged.
convenient to soak pulses overnight. l When storing cooked pulses, keep them covered and in
a refrigerator at a temperature below 5 °C.
l To prevent the risk of cross-contamination, store cooked
pulses away from any raw foods.
120
Corn/maize
Fresh corn – available in the form of sweetcorn and corn on
endosperm the cob – is eaten as a vegetable. The dried grain is most
often eaten as cornflakes or popcorn. The flour made from
corn (cornmeal) is used to make Italian polenta, and can be
added to soups, pancakes and muffins. Cook polenta (one
germ part grain to three parts water, for 15–20 minutes), stirring
carefully to avoid lumps. Use it like mashed potato: it is quite
bland, so try stirring in tasty ingredients such as Gorgonzola
or Parmesan and fresh herbs, or press it when cold, cut into acid) – calcium, iron, potassium, magnesium and zinc. Millets
slices, brush with garlicky olive oil and grill. You can also get contain no gluten, so they cannot rise to make bread. When
ready-made polenta. Tortillas are made from maize meal, combined with wheat or xanthan gum (for those who have
as are quite a lot of snack foods. Don’t confuse cornmeal coeliac disease), though, they can be used to make raised
with refined corn starch/flour, used for thickening. Corn bread. Alone, they are suited to flatbread.
is gluten free.
Millet is an alternative to rice but the tiny grains need to be
cracked before they will absorb water easily. Before boiling,
Oats sauté them with a little vegetable oil for 2–3 minutes until
There are various grades of oatmeal, including rolled oats some are seen to crack, then add water carefully (one part
and jumbo oat flakes. All forms can be used to make grain to three parts water). Bring to the boil and simmer for
porridge, combined with nuts to make a nut roast, or added 15–20 minutes until fluffy. Millet flakes can be made into
to stews. Oatmeal is low in gluten so can’t be used to make porridge or added to muesli. Millet flour is available, and it
bread, but can be mixed with wheat flour to add flavour is sometimes also made into pasta.
and texture to bread, muffins and pancakes. Oatmeal
contains some oils and can become rancid, so watch the Wheat
best-before date.
This is the most familiar cereal in the UK today, used for bread,
Oatmeal is created by grinding oats into a coarse powder; cakes, biscuits, pastry, breakfast cereals and pasta. Wheat
various grades are available depending on the thoroughness grains can be eaten whole (cook one part grain to three
of the grinding (including coarse, pinhead and fine). The parts water for 40–60 minutes) and have a satisfying, chewy
main uses of oats are: texture. Cracked or kibbled wheat is the dried whole
l as an ingredient in baking grains cut by steel blades. Bulgar wheat is parboiled before
l in the manufacture of bannocks or oatcakes cracking, has a light texture and only needs rehydrating
l as a stuffing for poultry by soaking in boiling water or stock. Semolina is a grainy
l as a coating for some cheeses yellow flour ground from durum or hard wheat, and is the
l as an ingredient of black pudding main ingredient of dried Italian pasta. Couscous is made
l for making traditional porridge. from semolina grains that have been rolled, dampened and
coated with finer wheat flour. Soak in two parts of water/
Millet stock to rehydrate; traditionally, it is steamed after soaking.
Millet is a group of small-seeded cereal crops or grains Strong wheat flour (with a high gluten content) is required
widely grown around the world for food and fodder. The for yeasted breadmaking. Plain flour is used for general
main millet varieties are: cooking including cakes and pastry. Wheat flakes can be
l pearl millet used for porridge, muesli and flapjacks.
l foxtail millet
l proso millet (also known as common millet, broom corn Quinoa
millet, hog millet or white millet) Quinoa is an ancient crop that fed the South American
l finger millet. Aztecs for thousands of years, and has recently been
cultivated in the UK. It’s a seed that is high in protein,
Coeliac patients can replace certain cereal grains (such as
making it useful for vegetarians.
wheat) in their diets by consuming millets in various forms,
including breakfast cereals. The small, round grains look similar to millet but are pale
brown in colour. The taste is mild and the texture firm and
In western India, millet flour (called ‘bajari’ in Marathi) has
slightly chewy. It can be cooked like millet and absorbs twice
been commonly used with ‘jowar’ (sorghum) flour for
its volume in liquid. Cook for 15 minutes (one part grain to
hundreds of years to make the local staple flatbread, ‘bhakri’.
three parts water); it’s ready when all the grains have turned
Millet can often be used in place of buckwheat, rice or from white to transparent, and the spiral-like germ has
quinoa. separated. Use in place of more common cereals or pasta,
The protein content in millet is very close to that of wheat; or in risottos, pilaff and vegetable stuffings. It may be used
both provide about 11 per cent protein by weight. Millets in place of rice and is served in salads and some stuffings.
are rich in B vitamins – especially B3 (niacin), B6 and B9 (folic
122
Test yourself
1 State three quality points to look for when buying rice.
2 How much liquid to rice would you use when cooking risotto?
3 Describe how to store uncooked rice.
4 Describe how you would prepare dried chickpeas before cooking.
5 Describe how to store dried pulses.
6 Describe the preparation and cooking process for red kidney beans.
7 List three quality points to look for when buying grains.
8 State two foods for which barley can be used as an alternative.
9 Describe how to cook polenta by boiling.
10 What is an appropriate cooking method for rye?
123
Rice recipes
2 Steamed rice
124
Using white rice and hard margarine. Using brown rice and
hard margarine, 1 portion provides: 769 kJ/183 kcal energy,
10.9 g fat, 4.6 g saturated fat, 20.7 g carbohydrates, 0.7 g sugar,
1.9 g protein and 1.0 g fibre.
1 Place half the butter or oil into a small sauteuse. 6 Place in a hot oven (230–250 °C) for
Add the onion. approximately 15 minutes, until cooked.
2 Cook gently without colouring for 2–3 minutes. 7 Remove immediately into a cool sauteuse.
Add the rice. 8 Carefully mix in the remaining butter or oil with a
3 Cook gently without colouring for 2–3 minutes. two-pronged fork.
4 Add twice the amount of stock to rice. 9 Correct the seasoning and serve.
5 Season, cover with buttered paper, bring to the boil.
Cook the rice gently without colouring Add the stock Cover with buttered paper, with a small hole
at the centre
125
126
Video: making
risotto
http://bit.ly/
1vGih2Q
1 Wash and drain the rice. 6 Leave for 8 minutes – the water should have been
2 Heat the ghee in a large thick-based saucepan completely absorbed.
and stir fry the spices for 30 seconds. 7 Check the rice. If it is done, remove from the heat
3 Add the rice and very gently stir fry, being careful and gently fluff up with a fork.
not to breaking the grains of rice. 8 If the rice is still brittle in the middle, replace the
4 Add to the boiling water and stir around. lid and leave for a further 2 minutes, adding a little
more water if necessary.
5 Place a lid on top and turn down to the lowest
heat.
127
Pulse recipes
7 Bean goulash
1 Soak the beans for 24 hours in cold water. Drain, 5 Remove the bouquet garni. Add the drained
place into a saucepan. Cover with cold water, cooked beans, correct the seasoning and stir.
boil for at least 10 minutes and then simmer until 6 Garnish with potatoes (or gnocchi) and chopped
tender. parsley.
2 Heat the oil in a sauté pan, sweat the onion and 7 Serve wholegrain pilaff or wholemeal noodles
garlic without colour for 2–3 minutes; add the separately.
paprika and sweat for a further 2–3 minutes.
3 Add the peppers (cut in halves, with seeds Healthy eating tips
removed and cut into 1 cm dice). Add the button l Use less sunflower oil to sweat the onions.
l Add only a pinch of salt.
mushrooms; sweat for a further 2 minutes.
l Serve with rice or noodles and a green salad or mixed
4 Add the tomato purée, vegetable stock and vegetables.
bouquet garni. Bring to the boil and simmer until
the pepper and mushrooms are cooked.
128
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Soak the beans in cold water for 24 hours. Drain.
Place into a saucepan, cover with cold water,
Red kidney or haricot beans, dried 300 g 750 g
bring to the boil and simmer gently.
Onions, finely chopped 100 g 250 g
2 When three-quarters cooked, add all the other
Carrots, sliced 100 g 250 g
ingredients except the chopped chives.
Tomato, skinned, deseeded and diced 200 g 500 g
3 Continue to simmer until all is completely cooked.
Cloves of garlic, crushed and 2 5
chopped 4 Serve sprinkled with chopped chives.
Paprika 10 g 25 g
Healthy eating tips
Dried marjoram 3g 9g l No added salt is needed; there is plenty in the yeast
Small fresh chilli, finely chopped 1 2–3 extract.
l Serve with a selection of colourful vegetables.
Small red pepper, finely diced 1 2–3
Yeast extract 5g 12 g
Chives, chopped
Seasoning
129
Grain recipes
Red onions 2 5
3 Finish with rocket salad and balsamic dressing.
Vegetable oil 200 ml 500 ml
Professional tip
Seasoning
Line the tray with cling film and silicone paper before
Clove of garlic 1 3 pouring in the polenta – this will stop it from sticking to
Thyme, sprigs 2 5 the tray when it sets.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3,267 kJ 790 kcal 71.4 g 18.9 g 28.6 g 14.0 g 10.1 g 6.6 g 0.1 g
130
1 Wash the lentils and cook in salted water for 7 Heat the olive oil in a suitable pan; gently fry the
about 25 minutes until tender but still firm. Drain cakes for about 3–4 minutes on each side until
well, refresh and drain again. Dry on a suitable heated through and well browned.
cloth. 8 To make the sauce, liquidise the peeled cucumber
2 Bring the vegetable stock to the boil, add the with the yoghurt, and finish with chopped mint
polenta and cook gently, stirring until thickened. and chives.
3 Add the Parmesan and beaten egg; season. 9 To serve, place a small amount of the sauce on to
4 Mix the lentils, polenta, leeks and garlic together. a plate and place the cakes on top. Garnish the
plate with freshly roasted vegetables.
5 Correct the seasoning, cool and shape into four
(or ten) round cakes.
Healthy eating tips
6 Place in the fridge and chill well for at least 1 hour. l No additional salt is needed.
l Use less olive oil to fry the cakes, and drain on
kitchen paper.
131
132
133
Stuffed pasta
Germ Pasta that is to be stuffed must be rolled as thinly as possible.
The stuffing should be pleasant in taste and plentiful in
quantity. The edges of the pasta must be thoroughly sealed
otherwise the stuffing will seep out during poaching.
The list of possible stuffings is almost endless as every
district in Italy has its own variations and, with thought and
The structure of a grain of wheat
experimentation, many more can be produced.
135
Examples of stuffed pasta include the following: It is important to know what ingredients blend well
l Agnolini: small half-moon shapes, usually filled with together and complement the pasta without overpowering
ham and cheese or minced meat. the main ingredient. Customers must also know what
l Cannelloni: large tubes of pasta, poached that may be ingredients are in the dish in case they suffer from an allergy
stuffed with a variety of fillings (e.g. ricotta cheese and (see Chapter 17).
spinach) and finished with an appropriate sauce.
l Cappelletti: shaped like little hats and usually filled as
agnolini; they are available dried.
Preparing and cooking pasta
l Ravioli: usually square with serrated edges. A wide dishes
variety of fillings can be used (fish, meat, vegetarian, Dried pasta
cheese, etc.).
A rule of thumb for cooking dried pasta is to allow 80–100 g
l Ravolini: ‘little ravioli’, half the size of ravioli.
per portion as a starter course; increase accordingly if larger
l Tortellini: a slightly larger version of cappelletti; also
portions are required.
available in dried form.
l Tortelloni: a double-sized version of tortellini. Bring plenty of water (at least 4 litres for every 600 g of dry
pasta) to a rolling boil. Add about 1 tbsp of salt per 4 litres
of water, if desired. Add the pasta in small quantities to
Quality points maintain the rolling boil. Stir frequently to prevent sticking.
When purchasing dried pasta the box or container should Do not cover the pan. Follow package directions for
be sealed and the pasta unbroken. Check the ‘best before’ cooking time. Do not overcook. Pasta should be ‘al dente’
date. Dried pasta must be dry and not damp, have a good (meaning literally ‘to the tooth’ – tender, yet firm). It should
even colour with no signs of infestation. If you experience be slightly resistant to the bite, but cooked through. Drain
problems with the ingredients inform the supplier or your pasta to stop the cooking action but do not rinse it unless
manger immediately. If in doubt, do not use them. the recipe specifically says to do so. For salads, drain and
When purchasing fresh pasta it must be at or below 5 °C, rinse pasta with cold water.
evenly coloured, intact and not torn or damaged. The pasta
must separate easily. Fresh egg pasta
This requires less cooking time than dried pasta. When
cooking fresh pasta, the addition of a few drops of olive oil
Ingredients for pasta dishes in the water will help prevent the pasta pieces from sticking
A huge variety of ingredients may be used in pasta dishes. together.
The list is almost endless, but may include:
l fish, e.g. smoked salmon, anchovies, tuna
Straining
l shellfish, e.g. shrimps, prawns, scallops, lobster, crab,
Always strain pasta carefully as it is a delicate product. Use a
cockles
colander or a spider.
l meat, e.g. smoked ham, sausage, salami, bacon, beef,
chicken, duck
l offal, e.g. tongue, chicken livers
l herbs, e.g. parsley, rosemary, basil, tarragon, chives,
marjoram
l spices, e.g. chillies, saffron, grated nutmeg
l vegetables, e.g. mushrooms, tomatoes, onions, fennel,
courgettes, spring onions, peas, spinach, peppers, broad
beans, broccoli
l nuts, e.g. pine nuts, walnuts, hazelnuts
l fruit, e.g. stoned olives, avocado, sultanas, lemon zest
l eggs
l capers
l cooked, dried beans
l Balsamic vinegar.
136
Pasta-making equipment, left to right: pasta machine, ravioli cutter, ravioli tray and rolling pin
1 Sift 400 g strong flour together 2 Make a well in the flour; pour 4 3 Gradually incorporate the flour.
with a pinch of salt. beaten eggs into the well.
4 Mix until a dough is formed. Add 5 Pull and knead the dough until it is 7 After resting, knead the dough
olive oil to adjust to the required of a smooth elastic consistency. again.
consistency. The amount of oil will 6 Cover the dough and allow to rest 8 Roll the dough out on a well-floured
vary according to the type of flour in a cool place for 30 minutes. surface to a thickness of 0.5 mm.
and the size of the eggs. 9 Trim the sides and cut as required
using a large knife.
137
Other cooking methods for pasta All stuffed pasta should be served in or coated with a
suitable sauce and, depending on the type of recipe, may
dishes be finished ‘au gratin’ by sprinkling with freshly grated
l Baking: this technique is used for dishes such as Parmesan and browning lightly under the salamander.
cannelloni and pasta bakes. These dishes have usually
been cooked previously and require baking to finish the
product. This technique requires the dish to cook evenly Storing pasta
to give a well-distributed colour. After cooking, clean Dry pasta can be stored almost indefinitely, if kept in a
the dish before presenting it to the customer. Always tightly sealed package or a covered container in a cool, dry
check the internal temperature using a probe to ensure place, but you must observe the best-before date on the
that it reaches a safe 72 °C. packaging.
l Grilling: this method is used to finish cooked pasta
Fresh egg pasta should be stored in the refrigerator at or
dishes that include a sauce topped with grated cheese.
below 5 °C; if it is not for immediate use it must be stored in
l Deep frying: some pasta dishes may be deep fried; the
a cool, dry place. Allow it to dry then keep it in a clean, dry
pasta is first boiled and then coated before deep frying.
container or bowl in a cool, dry store.
An example is stuffed ravioli dipped in egg wash or
butter milk, coated in breadcrumbs and then deep fried. If cooked pasta is not to be used immediately, drain and
rinse thoroughly with cold water. If the pasta is left to sit
Sauces and accompaniments in water, it will continue to absorb water and become
Always mix sauces into pasta in a large bowl or saucepan to mushy. When the pasta is cool, drain and toss lightly with
enable the ingredients to be well distributed throughout it. salad oil to prevent it from sticking and drying out. Cover
This is best done with a large spoon or, if cold, the pasta can tightly and refrigerate or freeze. Refrigerate the pasta and
be mixed by hand (make sure hands have been thoroughly sauce separately or the pasta will become soggy. To reheat,
washed; alternatively use food gloves). put pasta in a colander and immerse in rapidly boiling
water just long enough to heat through. Do not allow the
Examples of sauces to go with pasta include: pasta to continue to cook. Pasta may also be reheated in a
l tomato sauce microwave.
l cream, butter or béchamel-based sauces
l rich meat sauce, e.g. bolognaise
Always make sure you refresh the pasta in plenty of water
l olive oil and garlic
so that the pasta is free flowing and does not stick together.
l soft white or blue cheese Shaped raw pasta is best stored in large containers sprinkled
l pesto. with semolina, layered with sheets of greaseproof or silicone
Cheeses used when pasta cooking include the following: paper or sheets of plastic in an airtight container.
l Parmesan: the most popular hard cheese for use with Stuffed fresh pasta should be blanched, drained, frozen or
pasta, ideal for grating. The flavour is best when it is chilled in small amounts which allows for easy separation.
freshly grated. If bought ready grated, or if it is grated Frozen pasta will keep for up to three months but it is
and stored, the flavour deteriorates. recommended that it is used within one month.
l Pecorino: a strong ewes’ milk cheese, sometimes
studded with peppercorns. Used for strongly flavoured Health and safety
dishes, it can be grated or thinly sliced.
Remember to store fresh pasta in the refrigerator at
l Ricotta: a creamy-white cheese made from the 5 °C. When cooked the core temperature must be 72 °C.
discarded whey of other cheeses. It is widely used in
fillings for pasta such as cannelloni and ravioli, and for
sauces. Noodles
l Mozzarella: traditionally made from the milk of the
Noodles are probably the world’s oldest fast food; they are
water buffalo. Mozzarella is pure white and creamy, with versatile and quick to cook. They may be steamed, boiled,
a mild but distinctive flavour, and usually round or pear- pan-fried, stir fried or deep fried. Noodles are a staple food
shaped. It will keep for only a few days in a container in southeast Asia but they are also very popular in the West.
half-filled with milk and water.
l Gorgonzola and dolcelatte: distinctive blue cheeses
that can be used in sauces.
138
Test yourself
1 State three quality points to look for when buying dried pasta.
2 State three pieces of equipment you would use when preparing fresh pasta.
3 Describe how to prepare fresh egg pasta dough.
4 What is the minimum legal temperature for holding cooked lasagne hot for
service?
5 Describe how to store cooked pasta which is not for immediate use.
6 State two quality points to look for when buying fresh noodles.
7 Describe how to store uncooked fresh noodles.
8 Name three types of noodle.
139
Pasta recipes
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 3 The pasta dough may feel wet at this stage,
however the working of the gluten will take
Pasta flour 175 g 350 g
the moisture back into the dry mass, leaving a
Whole eggs 1 2
velvety-smooth finish that is malleable and easy to
Egg yolks 3 6 work; most of this process should be carried out
using a pasta machine.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,672 kJ 400 kcal 17.2 g 9.4 g 50.0 g 10.2 g 11.8 g 4.0 g
4 Rest the dough for 30 minutes and then it is ready
to use.
This is an alternative method to the one given earlier in 5 For a classic noodle shape, roll out to a thin
the chapter. rectangle 45 × 15 cm. Cut into 0.5 cm strips.
1 Place all the ingredients into a food processor and Leave to dry.
mix quickly until a wet crumb mix appears; this
should take no more than 30–45 seconds. Professional tip
2 Tip the mix out on to a clean surface; this is l Do not knead the dough too much or it will become
where the working of the pasta begins. Knead it tough.
l Let it rest before rolling it out.
lightly.
l The best way to roll out pasta dough to the correct
thickness is to use a pasta machine.
Combine the ingredients into a wet crumb mix Work and roll out the pasta using a pasta A pasta machine with an attachment can be
machine used to cut noodles
Video: making
fresh pasta
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1MxDxCK
140
Professional tip
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Cook pasta to an al dente texture.
Spaghetti 100 g 250g
Butter (optional) or olive oil 25 g 60 g
Tomato sauce (page 98) 250 ml 625 ml Healthy eating tips
l Use very little or no salt as there is already plenty from
Salt, mill pepper
the cheese.
Tomato concassée, to serve l Reduce or omit the butter and serve with a large
Fresh basil or flat parsley, to serve green salad.
Place the spaghetti into boiling water Drain the cooked pasta Add the sauce to the pasta
141
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1741 kJ 416 kcal 22.7 g 12.0 g 21.7 g 2.7 g 32.5 g 2.0 g 0.4 g Healthy eating tips
Using butter. l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or olive). Lightly oil
the pan and drain off any excess after the frying is
complete. Skim the fat from the finished dish.
l Season with the minimum amount of salt.
l Try using more pasta and extending the sauce with
tomatoes.
l Serve with a large green salad.
142
Alternative recipe for bolognaise 1 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan, over a medium
heat.
sauce 2 Add the beef and pork mince and the chopped
onion and pan-fry for 4–6 minutes, stirring well,
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
until the mince has browned and the onion has
Olive oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
softened.
Beef mince and pork mince 270 g 700 g
3 Add the mushrooms and carrots and cook for a
Onion, chopped ½ 1 further minute before adding the red wine, beef
Mushrooms, sliced 100 g 250 g stock and tomato purée.
Carrots, peeled and cut as for 1 2 4 Add the Tabasco sauce and season to taste
paysanne
(optional).
Red wine 75 ml 180 ml
5 Add the chopped parsley and cook for 2–4 minutes
Beef stock or meat stock, reduced 100 ml 250 ml more to allow the wine and stock to reduce a little.
Tomato purée 1 tbsp 2 tbsp 6 When mixing the pasta into the sauce, first drain
Tabasco sauce (optional) ½ tsp 1 tsp the water thoroughly from the pasta then place
Salt and freshly ground black into the bolognaise sauce.
pepper, to taste
7 Toss well, to evenly coat, then spoon into a
Fresh parsley, chopped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp serving bowl.
Fresh chives, chopped, to garnish
8 Garnish with the chopped chives, to serve (optional).
4 Penne arrabiata
1 Gently heat the olive oil in a frying pan. Add the 3 While the sauce is cooking, cook the pasta in
onion, chilli and garlic and fry while stirring for one large saucepan of boiling, salted water until al
minute. Add the lardons and cook until golden. dente (fresh pasta will cook much more quickly
2 Add the chopped tomatoes and tomato purée to than dried pasta). Drain the pasta and drizzle it
the frying pan and simmer for 10–15 minutes, until with oil.
the sauce has thickened a little. Season with salt 4 Add the basil to the sauce. Mix in the drained
to taste. pasta.
5 Serve with shavings of Parmesan.
143
5 Macaroni cheese
144
7 Tagliatelle carbonara
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,911 kJ 698 kcal 44.8 g 20.8 g 43.0 g 1.9 g 33.4 g 0.2 g 1.0 g
1 Cook the tagliatelle in boiling salted water until al 3 Mix together the beaten eggs, cream and
dente. Refresh and drain. Parmesan. Season with black pepper.
2 Heat the oil in a suitable pan. Fry the crushed and 4 Add the tagliatelle to the garlic and bacon. Add
chopped garlic. Add the diced, smoked bacon. the eggs and cream, stirring until the eggs cook in
the heat. Serve immediately.
8 Ravioli
145
1 Sieve the flour and salt. Make a well. Add the Spinach and ricotta
liquid. Dry spinach, cooked, puréed 200 g
2 Knead to a smooth dough. Rest for at least Ricotta cheese 200 g
30 minutes in a cool place.
Butter 25 g
3 Roll out to a very thin oblong: 30 cm × 45 cm.
Nutmeg
4 Cut in half and egg wash. Salt and pepper
5 Place the stuffing in a piping bag with a large plain
tube. Pork and veal
6 Pipe out the filling in small pieces, each about the Lean pork mince, cooked 200 g
size of a cherry, approximately 4 cm apart, on to Lean veal mince, cooked 200 g
one half of the paste.
Butter 25 g
7 Carefully cover with the other half of the paste and Cheese, grated 25 g
seal, taking care to avoid air pockets.
2 yolks or 1 egg
8 Mark each with the back of a plain cutter.
Fresh white breadcrumbs 25 g
9 Cut in between each line of filling, down and
Salt and pepper
across with a serrated pastry wheel.
10 Separate on a well-floured tray. Ricotta and Parmesan
11 Poach in gently boiling salted water for Marjoram, chopped Pinch
approximately 10 minutes. Drain well. Ricotta cheese 150 g
12 Place in an earthenware serving dish. Parmesan, grated 75 g
13 Cover with 250 ml jus-lié, demi-glace or tomato Egg 1
sauce.
Nutmeg
14 Sprinkle with 50 g grated cheese. Salt and pepper
15 Brown under the salamander and serve.
Fresh egg pasta dough can also be used. If you have Beef
prepared the dough, start this recipe at step 3. Beef or pork mince, cooked 200g
The photo shows ravioli stuffed with spinach and
Spinach, cooked 100 g
ricotta cheese, then poached. The ravioli has been
Onion, chopped, cooked 50 g
drizzled with olive oil and garnished with micro herbs
and slices of Parmesan. Oregano
Salt and pepper
146
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,469 kJ 590 kcal 30.8 g 17.6 g 62.0 g 6.6 g 15.8 g 4.2 g 1.3 g
147
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,913 kJ 454 kcal 14.6 g 6.3 g 61.0 g 6.5 g 23.8 g 3.1 g 0.3 g
148
De-branch the spinach Stir the chopped spinach into the beaten ricotta
Pipe the ricotta mixture down one side of the lasagne sheet Carefully lift the edge of the sheet with a knife, then roll the cannelloni
by hand
149
11 Lasagne
Note
This recipe can be made using 200 g of ready-bought
lasagne or it can be prepared fresh using 200 g flour
noodle paste. Wholemeal lasagne can be made using
noodle paste made with 100 g wholemeal flour and
100 g strong flour.
150
Brown the minced beef in a thick-bottomed Place a layer of lasagne over a layer of meat Cover the final layer with béchamel
pan sauce
151
12 Vegetarian lasagne
152
Gnocchi recipes
153
Ingredients for gnocchi Combine the mashed potato with the other ingredients while hot
Mould the mixture into balls, then flatten with a fork Drop the gnocchi into gently boiling water and poach them
154
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1814 kJ 433 kcal 25.0 g 11.1 g 41.0 g 6.4 g 14.7 g 4.0 g 0.7 g
155
Recipes included in this chapter 20 Steamed halibut with lime and fennel 193
Deep-fried fish dishes
No. Recipe Page
21 Frying batters (pâtes à frire) for fish 194
Grilled fish dishes
22 Fried fish in batter 195
1 Grilled fillets of sole, plaice or haddock 176
23 Deep-fried fish coated with breadcrumbs 195
2 Grilled tuna, rocket and fennel salad 176
24 Goujons of plaice 196
3 Whole grilled mackerel with tomatoes, basil 177
and shaved fennel 25 Salmon fishcakes 196
4 Whole sole grilled with traditional 178 Shallow-fried fish dishes
accompaniments
26 Shallow-fried fish 198
5 Sardines with tapenade 179
27 Shallow-fried sole with shrimp and caper 199
Poached fish dishes dressing
6 Poached salmon 180 28 Fish meunière 200
7 Poached smoked haddock 180 29 Pan-fried fillets of sole with rocket and broad 201
beans
8 Poached turbot, brill, halibut or cod (on the 181
bone) 30 Pan-fried skate with capers and beurre noir 202
9 Délice of flat white fish Dugléré 182 31 Nage of red mullet with baby leeks 203
10 Fillets of fish in white wine sauce (filets de 183 32 Barramundi with garlic, ginger and lemon 204
poisson vin blanc) butter and pak choi
11 Fillets of fish mornay (filets de poisson mornay) 184 33 Thai fishcakes 205
12 Fillets of fish Véronique 185 Boiled shellfish dishes
13 Fish kedgeree 186 34 Mussels in white wine sauce (moules 206
marinière)
Baked fish dishes
Fried shellfish dishes
14 Baked cod with a herb crust 187
35 Crab cakes with chilli lime dipping sauce 207
15 Baked hake with tomatoes and olives 188
36 Crab cakes with rocket salad and lemon 208
16 Cod boulangère 189 dressing
17 Fish pie 190 37 Lobster beignets with tomato chutney 209
Steamed fish dishes 38 Prawns with chilli and garlic 210
18 Salmon en papillote with crushed new potatoes 191 Grilled shellfish dishes
19 Steamed fish with garlic, spring onions and 192 39 Scallops and bacon 211
ginger
Fish l Oily fish have bodies that are round in shape and include
herring, mackerel, salmon, tuna and sardines. They are
Types and varieties pelagic fish, which means that they are found midwater.
Fish are vertebrates (animals with a backbone) and are split l White fish can be round, such as cod, whiting, hake,
into two primary groups: flat and round fish. From this pollock and sea bass, or flat, such as plaice, sole and
they can be split again into subgroups or secondary groups: turbot. They are demersal fish, which means that they
are found at or near the bottom of the sea.
l Shellfish (see page 169).
157
158
Available
Spawning and roeing – this can deprive the flesh of nutrients and will decrease the yield.
At best
Storing fish store in a refrigerator just for fish or at the bottom of a multi-
use refrigerator. Make sure the fish is covered or wrapped,
Once caught, fish has a shelf life of 10 to 12 days if properly
labelled and dated. Fish may also be vacuum packed before
refrigerated at a temperature between 0 °C and 4 °C. If the
chilling. For fish products that do not need to be used
fish is delivered whole with the innards still in the fish, it
immediately, use in rotation: this means using older items
should be gutted and the cavity washed well before it is
before the newly delivered items.
stored.
Ready-to-eat cooked fish, such as hot-smoked mackerel,
Use the fish as soon as possible after delivery, but it can be
cooked prawns and crab, should be stored on shelves
stored overnight. Rinse, pat dry, cover with cling film and
above other raw foodstuffs to avoid cross-contamination.
159
160
161
1 Remove the head and clean 2 Remove the first fillet by cutting 3 After both fillets have been
thoroughly. along the backbone from head to removed, remove the rib cavity
tail. Keeping the knife close to the bones and trim the fish neatly.
bone, remove the fillet.
162
1 Using a filleting knife, make an 2 Remove the first fillet, holding the 3 Repeat for the second fillet.
incision from the head to tail. Cut knife almost parallel to the work
around the gill and backbone. surface and keeping the knife
close to the bone.
Video: filleting a
flat fish
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17grHfz
163
1 Score the skin just above the tail. 2 Hold the tail firmly, then cut and scrape the skin until
sufficient is lifted to be gripped.
3 Pull the skin away from the tail to the head. Both the 4 Trim the tail and side fins with fish scissors.
black and white skins may be removed in this way. 5 Remove the eyes. Clean and wash the fish thoroughly.
The fish is shown here with all the parts that were
removed.
164
Cuts of fish: (clockwise from top left) darne, tronçon, fillet, paupiettes, suprême, goujons
165
Because fish cooks so quickly, an experienced chef will be and suitable sauces may also be added. Use a wok or deep
able to tell when certain types of fish are cooked by touch frying pan and a high cooking temperature. Food should
(touch temperature). be cut into thin strips and all prepared before cooking
begins. This method is well suited to firm-fleshed fish cut
Health and safety into strips or shellfish.
Environmental health officers may require higher
temperatures. Grilling
Grilling, or griddling, is cooking under radiant heat, and is
The following are the main cooking methods used for fish. a fast and convenient method suitable for fillets or small
whole fish. When grilling whole fish, trim and prepare neatly
Frying and descale. Cut through the flesh at the thickest part of
Frying is probably the most popular method of cooking the fish to allow even cooking. Lightly oil and season fish or
fish. Described below are the three main types of frying. fillets and, to avoid breaking, do not turn more than once.
166
Shellfish are often boiled from live and include: lobsters, may be seared in hot oil first); alternatively, place skin
crabs, oysters, langoustines, crayfish, clams, cockles, mussels, side down in a hot pan to sear it.
prawns and shrimps. 3 Add herbs such as parsley, rosemary or thyme, and
finely sliced vegetables such as mushrooms, onions,
Roasting shallots.
Roast fish frequently appears on restaurant menus but, 4 The fish can then be served, for example on a bed of
because fish is much more delicate than meat, only whole creamy or flavoured mashed potato with a suitable
fish or larger, firmer cuts are suitable for roasting and care sauce, a compound butter or a salsa.
must be taken not to overcook. The fish may be brushed
with oil or clarified butter before cooking and may be raised Steaming
a little from the base of the pan using vegetables. More Small whole fish, fish cuts or fillets are good cooked in
usually the fish is placed skin down in the hot cooking pan this way. Preparation is usually simple, with the fish just
to add colour and texture, or the skin is seared in hot oil first being seasoned then placed in a steamer tray lined with
then cooked skin side up. The fish is usually basted with the greaseproof paper or in a small steamer over simmering
pan juices as it cooks. water covered with a lid. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes,
depending on the thickness of the fish or the fillets.
When the fish is cooked and removed, the tray can be
deglazed with a suitable wine (usually a dry white) and fish Steaming can also be done by putting the food between
stock to form the base of an accompanying sauce. two plates and placing the plates over a pan of simmering
water.
Fish can also be coated in a light crust of breadcrumbs mixed
with a good oil, butter, lemon juice, freshly chopped herbs Fish is prepared as for poaching. Any fish that can be
(such as parsley, tarragon, chervil or rosemary), a duxelle- poached or boiled may also be cooked by steaming. This
based mixture or a light coating of creamed horseradish. method has a number of advantages:
l it is an easy method of cooking
The cooked fish may be served with a sauce or salsa, or
l because it is quick, it conserves flavour, colour and
placed on a bed of creamed or flavoured mashed potato
nutrients
with a compound butter sauce and quarters of lemon.
l it is suitable for large-scale cookery.
Baking Any cooking liquor from the steamed fish may be strained
Many fish (whole, portioned or filleted) may be oven-baked. off, reduced and incorporated into a sauce. Preparation can
To retain their natural moisture it is necessary to protect also include adding finely cut ingredients (such as ginger,
the fish from direct heat and this may be done by coating. spring onions, garlic, mushrooms and soft herbs), lemon
Prepared fish dishes, such as fish pies and en croute items, juice and dry white wine, either to the fish on the steamer
are also finished by baking. dish before cooking or when the fish is served.
167
Table 9.2 Examples of fish types available and suitable cooking methods
Deep frying
(pan) frying
Stir-frying
Steaming
Poaching
Roasting
Shallow
Grilling
Baking
Boiling
Oily fish
Barracuda
Dorade (red sea bream)
Emperor bream
Herring
Mackerel
Marlin
Monkfish
Red mullet
Red snapper
Salmon
Sardines
Trout
Tuna
Whitebait
White fish
Cod
Coley
Dover sole
Grouper
Haddock
Hake
Halibut
Huss
John Dory
Lemon sole
Plaice
Pollock
Sea bass
Shark
Skate
Swordfish
Turbot
168
The flesh of white fish does not contain any fat (and vitamins Consider the following points when choosing shellfish:
l The shells should not be cracked or broken.
A and D are only present in the liver, which is why it is used
l The shells of mussels and oysters should be tightly shut;
in cod liver or halibut liver oil).
open shells that do not close when tapped sharply
If the small bones in sardines, whitebait and canned salmon should be discarded.
are eaten they provide calcium and phosphorus. l Lobsters, crabs and prawns should have a good colour
The preparation and cooking methods selected can and be heavy for their size.
change the nutritional content of a fish dish however. For l Lobsters and crabs should have all their limbs in place.
example, by taking white fish and seasoning it, coating it
in batter and deep frying it, you have increased the salt, Storing shellfish
carbohydrate and fat content significantly.
All shellfish start to spoil as soon as they have been removed
Healthy options when preparing and cooking fish include: from their natural environment, therefore the longer
l Do not add salt in preparation, cooking and finishing. shellfish are stored the more they will deteriorate due to
l Use low-fat cooking options such as steaming, the bacteria present (see the guidelines on choosing and
poaching and grilling. buying, above). Best practice would be to cook immediately
l Reduce fat and salt content in coatings and marinades. and store as for cooked fish. Shellfish can be blanched
l Use oils and butter sparingly when grilling or baking quickly to remove the shell and membrane (especially
fish. in lobsters), but they will still need to be stored as a raw
l Avoid high-fat, salty sauces and adding extra butter product as they will require further cooking.
before serving.
Bear in mind the following quality, purchasing and storage
points:
Shellfish l Where possible, shellfish should be purchased live to
Shellfish, such as lobsters and crabs, are all invertebrates, ensure freshness.
which means that they do not have an internal skeleton. l Shellfish should be kept in suitable containers,
They are split into two main groups: covered with cling film or damp cloths, and stored in a
l Molluscs have either an external hinged double shell refrigerator.
(for example, scallops and mussels) or a single spiral l Shellfish should be cooked as soon as possible after
shell (for example, winkles and whelks), or have soft purchasing.
bodies with an internal shell, such as squid and octopus
(these are called cephalopods). Cooking shellfish
l Crustaceans have tough outer shells that act like
The flesh of fish and shellfish is different to meat and, as
armour, and also have flexible joints to allow quick
a consequence, their muscle make-up is very different
movement (for example, crab and lobster).
too, making the connective tissue very fragile, the muscle
169
Key:
Available
At best
fibres shorter and the fat content relatively low. Generally, Raw and cooked shrimps and prawns are prepared by
care should be taken when cooking and shellfish should having the head, carapace (upper shell), legs, tail section and
be cooked as little as possible, to the point that the protein the dark intestinal vein running down the back removed.
in the muscle groups just coagulates. Beyond this point
the flesh tends to dry out, leading to toughening and a
dry texture. Shellfish are known for their dramatic colour
Scampi, crayfish and Dublin Bay
change when being cooked, from blue/grey to a vibrant prawns
orange colour. This is because they contain red and yellow Scampi, crayfish and Dublin Bay prawns are also known as
pigments called carotenoids, bound to molecules of Norway lobster or langoustine, and are sold fresh, frozen,
protein. Once heat is applied, the bonds are broken and the raw or cooked. Their tails are prepared like shrimps and they
bright colour appears. are used in a variety of ways: salads, rice dishes, stir-fries,
deep-fried, poached and served with a number of different
Shrimps and prawns sauces. They are also used as garnishes for hot and cold fish
dishes.
These are often bought cooked, either in the shells or
peeled. Smell is a good guide to freshness. Shrimps and Freshwater crayfish are also known as écrevisse. These
prawns can be used for garnishes, decorating fish dishes, are small freshwater crustaceans with claws, found in lakes
cocktails, sauces, salads, hors d’oeuvres, omelettes, and and lowland streams. They are prepared and cooked like
snack and savoury dishes. They can also be used for a variety shrimps and prawns, and used in many dishes, including
of hot dishes, including stir-fries, risotto and curries. Potted soup. They are often used whole to garnish hot and cold
shrimps are also a popular dish. Freshly cooked prawns fish dishes.
in their shells may also be served cold accompanied by a
mayonnaise-based sauce, such as garlic mayonnaise. King
prawns are a larger variety that can also be used in any of
the above ways.
170
Cooking lobsters
1 Wash then plunge the lobsters into a pan of boiling
salted water containing 60 ml vinegar to 1 litre of water.
2 Cover with a lid, reboil, then allow to simmer for 15 to
20 minutes according to size.
3 Overcooking can cause the tail flesh to toughen and
the claw meat to become hard and fibrous.
4 Allow to cool in the cooking liquid when possible.
Some advice for the humane killing of lobsters is to place
them in the freezer for one hour before cooking to numb
Remove the cord from each langoustine before cooking them. Some chefs prefer to kill the lobster instantly by
plunging the tip of a sharp knife straight down and through
Lobster the lobster, right behind the eyes. There is also a device
called the Crustastun, which uses an electric current to
Although there many different lobster varieties around the
stun and painlessly kill shellfish such as lobsters, crabs and
world, the two main ones are the American lobster, which
langoustines before cooking. The machine can make a
tends to be the largest, and the European lobster, which is
large crustacean unconscious in less than 0.3 seconds and
usually smaller. Their preferred habitat is hard surfaces or
kill it in five to ten.
crevices on the sea bed at depths of around 20 to 60 metres.
Lobsters grow very slowly and can live up to 100 years. As
they grow they shed their hard shell and form another one. Cleaning a cooked lobster
Maturity is reached at about five years old and at a length 1 Remove the claws and the pincers from the claws.
of 18 to 20 cm. They can weigh up to 9 kg but are usually 2 Crack the claws and joints, and remove the meat.
around 2 to 3 kg. They have ten limbs (decapods), two of 3 Cut the lobster in half by inserting the point of a large
which are the two large front claws (one is used for cutting knife 2 cm above the tail on the natural central line.
and one for crushing). 4 Cut through the tail firmly.
5 Turn the lobster around and cut through the upper shell
Purchasing points (carapace).
6 Remove the halves of the sac (which contains grit) from
Purchase alive, with both claws attached, to ensure
each half. This is situated at the top, near the head.
freshness.
7 Using a small knife, remove the intestinal trace from the
l Lobsters should be heavy in proportion to their size.
tail and wash if necessary.
l The coral of the hen lobster is necessary to give the
required colour for certain soups, sauces and lobster
dishes.
Remove the claws and legs Cut the lobster in half Remove the meat from the cleaned
lobster
171
1 Pull the head away from the body, 2 Taking care not to break the ink 3 Cut the tentacles just below
together with the innards. bag, remove the long transparent the eye and remove the small
blade of cartilage (the backbone round cartilage at the base of the
or quill). tentacles.
4 Scrape or peel off the reddish 5 Discard the head, innards and
membrane that covers the pouch, pieces of cartilage. Cut up the
rub with salt and wash under cold squid as required.
water.
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Cooking Cooking
Cook as for lobsters (see above). 1 Scrape the shells to remove any barnacles, etc. Remove
the byssus threads (‘beards’).
Uses 2 Wash well in several changes of water and drain in a
Crab meat can be served simply with bread and salad, used colander.
cold for hors d’oeuvres, cocktails, salads, sandwiches and 3 Prepare a cooking liquid of shallots, butter, garlic and
dressed crab. Used hot, it can be covered with a suitable herbs along with fish stock.
sauce and served with rice, in bouchées or pancakes, or 4 Cook the mussels in the liquid in a large pan with a
made into crab fishcakes. tightly fitting lid until they open, which usually takes 4
to 5 minutes. Remove the mussels and check they have
all opened; throw away any that are still closed.
Cockles 5 Strain the liquid, whisk in some cream and serve with
Cockles are enclosed in small, attractive, cream-coloured the mussels still in their shells.
shells. As they live in sand it is essential to purge them by
Alternatively, place 25 g chopped shallot or onion for each
washing well under cold running water and leaving them
litre of mussels into a thick-bottomed pan with a tight-fitting
in cold salted water (changed frequently) until no traces of
lid. Add the mussels, cover with the lid and cook on a fierce
sand remain.
heat for 4 to 5 minutes until the shells open completely.
Cockles can be cooked either by steaming, boiling in Remove the mussels from their shells. Retain the carefully
unsalted water, on a preheated griddle, or as for any mussel strained liquid to make a sauce to serve with the mussels.
recipe. They should be cooked only until the shells open.
They can be used in soups, sauces, salads, stir-fries and rice Uses
dishes, and as garnish for fish dishes. Mussels can be used for soups, sauces and salads, and
cooked in a wide variety of hot dishes.
Mussels
Mussels are bivalves, which means they have a double
Scallops
outer shell hinged at the top. Mussels can be from either Scallops are bivalves with a fan-shaped shell. They vary in size
sea or freshwater (rivers and lakes) but the sea varieties are from 15 cm for great scallops, around 8 cm for bay scallops,
by far the most widely used. Mussels are now extensively and to queen scallops that are the size of cockles. Inside is
farmed, cultivated on wooden frames in the sea, producing the round white flesh and the orange coral (the roe), which is
tender, delicately flavoured plump flesh. They are produced often discarded. Scallops are popular and the prices tend to
off British coasts and also imported from France, Holland remain high, especially for hand-dived scallops rather than
and Belgium. French mussels are small; Dutch and Belgian those caught by a dredging trawler. They are prepared by
mussels are plumper. The production of mussels is prising the two halves of the shell apart and removing the
considered to be ecologically sound, which means that the white flesh and the orange roe if required.
species is not threatened or damaging to the environment. Scallops in their shells should be covered with damp cloths
and kept in a refrigerated cold room or fish refrigerator.
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Cooking Oysters
Scallops should only be cooked lightly, otherwise they Oysters are highly regarded saltwater bivalves found near
shrink and toughen. the bottom of the sea; the upper shell (valve) is flattish and
l Poach gently for two to three minutes in fish stock or attached by a ligament hinge to the lower, bowl-shaped
dry white wine with a little onion, carrot, thyme, bay leaf shell. A number of different species available, including
and parsley. Serve with a suitable sauce (for example native, flat or rock oysters, with Colchester and Whitstable
white wine or mornay). being significant oyster areas in the UK. Traditionally oysters
l Lightly fry on both sides for a few seconds in butter or are eaten raw so it is essential that they are very fresh and
oil in a very hot pan (if the scallops are very thick they cleaned/purged well. Preparation usually involves prising
can be cut in half sideways) and serve with a suitable the two halves of the shell apart with a small, pointed
garnish (sliced wild or cultivated mushrooms, or a fine oyster knife. The oysters may then be served with lemon
brunoise of vegetables and tomato) and a liquid that and other condiments.
need not be thickened (white wine and fish stock, or
a cream- or butter-mounted sauce). Fried scallops can Oysters are high in protein and low in fat; they are rich in
also be served hot on a plate of salad leaves. zinc and contain many other nutrients such as calcium, iron,
l Deep-fry, either egg and crumbed or passed through a copper, iodine, magnesium and selenium.
light batter and served with segments of lemon and a
suitable sauce. Purchasing points
l Wrap in thin streaky bacon and place on skewers for They should smell fresh and the shells should be clean,
grilling or barbecuing. bright and unbroken. The shells should be tightly closed or
should close when tapped.
Whelks Storage
The common whelk is familiar around the coast of Britain. It
Oysters should be stored at a low temperature (1 °C to 2 °C).
is actually a gastropod, which means it has a large, strong
Unopened live oysters can be kept in the fish refrigerator
flat foot to move around on. Whelks are also equipped with
covered with wet cloths or cling film for two to three days;
a siphon, which is used for breathing and feeling around
discard any that open. Do not store in an airtight container
for food.
or under fresh water as this will cause them to die. Shucked
oysters (ones that have been removed from their shells)
British winkles can be kept refrigerated in a sealed container for four to
The main types of British winkle, which can be readily five days.
identified on rocky shores, are:
l small periwinkle: approximately 4 mm Ready prepared shellfish
l rough periwinkle: at least four different subspecies, with
Shellfish are increasingly available ready prepared in a
the largest reaching 30 mm
number of ways, such as breadcrumbed and frozen prawns
l flat periwinkle.
and scampi, or shellfish wrapped in puff or filo pastry,
mussels, cooked and vacuum packed in a sauce, crab
Video: buying cakes, sushi and many more. Shellfish are great favourite
shellfish http:// for canapés and many of these are now available ready
bit.ly/1DCYHek prepared.
174
Test yourself
1 What are the differences between oily and white fish? Give three examples of
each.
2 At what temperatures should a) fresh fish and b) frozen fish be stored?
3 How would you defrost fish that has been frozen?
4 Describe how you would skin a Dover sole.
5 What are the quality points you would look for in a delivery of fresh fish? If you
thought there were problems with the quality, what would you do?
6 If you had been asked to fillet and skin five whole plaice, what equipment
would you get ready?
7 List four cooking methods that could be used for white fish and four for oily
fish.
8 List five types of fish suitable for deep frying.
9 Describe the following cuts of fish and suggest a method for cooking each of
them:
a délice
b tronçon
c darne
d goujon.
10 Describe how you would prepare mussels for cooking.
11 How would you prepare and cook scallops?
12 What are the quality points you would look for with lobsters? How would you
prepare them?
175
Professional tip
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Oil the grill bars well, so that the fish does not stick.
802 kJ 191 kcal 7.8 g 1.0 g 3.9 g 0.1 g 26.6 g 0.2 g 0.1 g
176
177
178
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Finely chop the olives and capers. Add the lemon
juice, olive oil, anchovy paste and black pepper.
Sardines 8–12 20–30
Mix well.
For the tapenade
2 Allow 2–3 sardines per portion. Clean the
Kalamata olives 20 50
sardines and grill them on both sides, either on an
Capers 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
open flame grill or under the salamander.
Lemon juice 1 tsp 2½ tsp
3 When cooked, smear the tapenade on top. The
Olive oil 2 tsp 5 tsp tapenade can be heated slightly before spreading.
Anchovy paste (optional) ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
Freshly ground black pepper Variation
A little chopped basil and a crushed chopped clove of
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium garlic may also be added to the tapenade.
3,167 kJ 757 kcal 44.0 g 12.4 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 90.5 g 0.8 g 1.0 g
179
6 Poached salmon
Variation
l When cooked, garnish with slices of peeled tomato or
tomato concassé, lightly coat with cream, flash under
the salamander and serve.
l Top with a poached egg.
l When cooked, lightly coat with Welsh rarebit mixture,
brown under the salamander and garnish with peeled
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
slices of tomato or tomato concassé.
702 kJ 168 kcal 7.6 g 4.6 g 1.4 g 1.4 g 23.4 g 0.0 g 1.0 g
180
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,412 kJ 353 kcal 9.5 g 2.5 g 0.3 g 0.3 g 62.0 g 0.0 g 0.2 g
Place the fish into the gently simmering liquid Allow the fish to poach Lift out the fish and remove any black skin
181
1 Skin the fish, trim and wash. 8 Add the cold, sliced butter and ripple the sauce
2 Fold the fillets neatly, ensuring the skinned side is over the butter until the butter has emulsified
facing inwards (délice). into the sauce (monté). Check the seasoning
and adjust accordingly. Do not allow the sauce
3 Using a wide, shallow pan, poach the délice
to reboil as the butter will split and the sauce will
gently in fish stock for 4–6 minutes (depending on
become greasy.
the thickness of the fillet).
9 Add the neatly cut tomato concassé and finely
4 To make the sauce, sweat the finely chopped
chopped parsley to the sauce.
shallots with the butter in a saucepan, until
translucent. 10 To serve, drain the fish well and place neatly on
a plate; carefully coat each délice with the sauce
5 Add the fish stock and reduce by one-third.
and serve.
6 Add the dry white wine and reduce again by half.
7 Add the whipping cream and reduce by one-third,
until the cream starts to thicken the sauce to a
coating consistency.
Fold each fillet into a délice Sweat the finely chopped shallots Coat each délice with sauce
182
Variation
Add to the fish before cooking:
l fish bonne-femme: 100 g thinly sliced white button
mushrooms and chopped parsley
l fish bréval: as for bonne-femme plus 100 g diced,
peeled and deseeded tomatoes.
183
184
185
13 Fish kedgeree
This dish is traditionally served for breakfast, lunch or Serve hot with a sauceboat of curry sauce.
supper. The fish used should be named on the menu
(e.g. salmon kedgeree). Healthy eating tips
l Reduce the amount of butter used to heat the rice,
1 Poach the fish in milk. Remove all skin and bone. fish and eggs.
Flake the fish. l Garnish with grilled tomatoes and serve with bread or
2 Cook the rice pilaff. Cut the eggs into dice. toast.
3 Combine the eggs, fish and rice and heat in the
butter. Correct the seasoning and add the chives.
Remove the skin from the poached fish Flake the fish Dice the hard-boiled eggs
186
187
188
16 Cod boulangère
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 4 Grease a shallow baking tin with a little butter and
season well with freshly milled black pepper and
Onion 1 2
sea salt.
Oil 50 ml 125 ml
5 Peel the potatoes and slice them finely (3 mm thick).
Sea salt, freshly milled black pepper
6 Once the onions are softened, arrange the potato
Potatoes 750 g 2 kg
and onion in alternate layers on the bottom of the
Thyme baking dish, also adding the thyme throughout.
Lemon, zest and juice of 1 2 7 Mix the lemon juice and zest with the hot fish
Fish stock, hot 400 ml 1 litre stock and pour over the potatoes and onion.
Butter 100 g 250 g 8 Randomly place knobs of butter over the top of
Cod fillets (100 g, skinless, boneless) 4 10 the potatoes.
Fresh peas 300 g 750 g 9 Cover the baking dish with foil and bake in the
Chives, chopped oven for 55 minutes.
10 While the potatoes are cooking, prepare the cod
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium by cutting it into large, bite-sized chunks and
2,650 kJ 636 kcal 35.7 g 15.1 g 44.1 g 5.4 g 37.3 g 8.7 g 0.6 g
place in the fridge.
1 Peel the onions and slice them approximately 11 When the potatoes are cooked (check with the
3 mm thick. point of a knife), arrange the fish over the top of
the potatoes, recover with the foil and cook for
2 Heat the oil in a thick-bottomed pan, place in the
another 10 minutes.
onions and cook slowly until a light golden-brown.
(Do not fast-fry the onions – this is a caramelisation 12 Remove the foil and sprinkle over the peas, recover
process to reveal their natural sugars.) and place back in the oven for a further 3 minutes.
3 Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 190 °C. 13 Remove from the oven, take off the foil, clean the
outer rim of the dish if required, sprinkle with the
chopped chives and serve.
189
17 Fish pie
1 Bring the béchamel to the boil. 4 Carefully spread or pipe the potato on top. Brush
2 Add the fish, mushrooms, egg and parsley. with egg wash or milk.
Correct the seasoning. 5 Brown in a hot oven and use a food probe to
3 Place in a buttered pie dish. check that the temperature is 75 °C.
Cook the fish, mushrooms and egg in the béchamel Pipe mashed potato over the top before baking
190
191
Note
The term ‘en papillotte’ means ‘butterfly’ and traditionally and cooks the dish in its own juices. This is then taken
this method of cookery was all about the theatre at the straight to the table and opened in front of the diner,
restaurant table. allowing the aromas to escape, creating great theatre
and sensory stimulation.
The ingredients were placed on a piece of parchment
paper (today’s greaseproof paper, or aluminium This method of cookery still has its place in the modern
foil), shaped like a heart or a butterfly (both sides world of gastronomy, however there is less theatre in the
symmetrical). The edges of the paper were brushed room. The parcel is likely to be opened in the kitchen and
with oil and crimped together, forming a waterproof served on the plate, thus harnessing the natural cooking
seal. Once placed in the oven, the moisture from the juices from the ingredients to create a naturally light and
ingredients inflates the parchment pouch like a pillow clean-tasting dish.
1 Wash and dry the fish well; rub lightly with salt on
both sides.
2 Put the fish on to plates, scatter the ginger evenly
on top.
3 Cover the plates tightly, place into the steamer
and steam gently until just cooked (5–15 minutes,
according to the thickness of the fish).
4 Remove the plates, sprinkle on the spring onions
and soy sauce.
5 Brown the garlic slices in the hot oil and pour over
the dish.
Garlic and ginger have intense flavours, so they must
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions be chopped very finely.
White fish fillets, e.g. cod, sole 400 g 1 kg
Healthy eating tips
Salt l Steaming is a healthy way of cooking.
l Serve with a large portion of rice or noodles and stir-
Fresh ginger, freshly chopped 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp fried vegetables.
Spring onions, finely chopped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Light soy sauce 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Variation
Cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly 4 10
sliced This is a Chinese recipe that can be adapted in many
ways – for example, replace the spring onions and garlic
Oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
and use thinly sliced mushrooms, diced tomato (skinned
and deseeded), finely chopped shallots, lemon juice,
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre white wine, chopped parsley, dill or chervil.
468 kJ 112 kcal 3.5 g 0.7 g 1.2 g 0.4 g 18.7 g 0.1 g
192
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Mix together the lime juice, oil, garlic and fish
sauce and marinate the fish in this for 30 minutes,
Halibut fillet, skinned (or use any 4 × 100 g 10 × 100 g
other white fish such as pollack, spooning the mixture over the fish frequently.
cod, haddock)
2 Remove the fish from the marinade and scatter
Spring onions, thinly sliced 4 10 each piece with spring onion, coriander, chilli and
Salt and black pepper a slice of lime.
Red chilli, deseeded and cut into ½ 1½ 3 Season the fennel and place in a steamer tray,
very thin slices
small steamer or between two plates over
Lime juice 3 tbsp 8 tbsp simmering water.
Olive oil or sunflower oil 3 tbsp 8 tbsp 4 Top with the fish, make sure it is well covered
Limes cut into rounds 1 3 and steam gently for 5–10 minutes until the fish is
Bay leaves 2 6 cooked and the fennel tender.
Cloves of garlic, finely chopped 1 2½ 5 Remove the fish and continue to cook the fennel if
Coriander, chopped 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp necessary.
Fennel bulb, very thinly sliced 1 2½ 6 Divide the fennel between the plates and top each
Thai fish sauce (Nam Pla) 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
with fish.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
914 kJ 219 kcal 13.3 g 1.9 g 2.2 g 1.6 g 22.8 g 2.1 g 0.1 g
193
Recipe A Recipe B
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Flour 200 g 500 g Flour 200 g 500 g
Salt Salt
Yeast 10 g 25 g Egg 1 2–3
Water or milk 250 ml 625 ml Water or milk 250 ml 625 ml
Oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
1 Sift the flour and salt into a basin.
2 Dissolve the yeast in a little of the water. 1 Sift the flour and salt into a basin. Make a well.
3 Make a well in the flour. Add the yeast and the Add the egg and the liquid.
liquid. 2 Gradually incorporate the flour and beat to a
4 Gradually incorporate the flour and beat to a smooth mixture.
smooth mixture. 3 Mix in the oil. Allow to rest before using.
5 Allow to rest for at least 1 hour before using.
Recipe C
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Flour 200 g 500 g
Salt
Water or milk 250 ml 625 ml
Oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Egg whites, stiffly beaten 2 5 tbsp
Note
Other ingredients can be added to batter, for example
Batter mixed to the right consistency chopped fresh herbs, grated ginger, garam masala or
beer.
194
Professional tip
Remove any excess batter before frying; too much
batter will make the dish too heavy.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,736 kJ 415 kcal 14.0 g 1.8 g 41.6 g 3.5 g 33.2 g 2.1 g
Pass the prepared fish through the batter Shake off any excess and then lower carefully into the fryer
195
24 Goujons of plaice
Professional tip
Keep the coating ingredients (flour, egg and
breadcrumbs) separate. Shake off any excess flour and
egg before dipping the fish into the breadcrumbs.
Other fish, e.g. sole or salmon, may be used instead of
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium plaice.
1,094 kJ 261 kcal 13.8 g 0.0 g 13.8 g 0.0 g 21.3 g 0.6 g 0.3 g
25 Salmon fishcakes
196
1 Place the salmon in an oiled roasting tin, season 6 Form into neat, even-sized cake shapes (a ring
with salt and pepper, dot with butter and squeeze mould could be used), place on a tray lined with
the lemon juice over. cling film and chill thoroughly for several hours.
2 Bake at 200 °C for approximately 7 minutes. 7 Coat with seasoned flour, egg and breadcrumbs
3 Allow the salmon to cool a little, then flake into (pané), chill well again or the formed cakes can
bite-sized pieces. be frozen.
4 Chop the spring onions and herbs. 8 Cook in a deep fryer as required and drain on
kitchen paper.
5 Add the salmon to the mashed potato, and mix
in the herbs, spring onion, beaten egg and crème 9 Serve with a suitable sauce or salsa and/or mixed
fraiche. Add a little nam pla if using and season. salad leaves.
One way to divide the mixture is to form it into Divide the roll into even pieces Mould each piece into a ball
a long roll
Pass the balls through seasoned flour, beaten Flatten each cake firmly and shake off Deep fry until golden brown
egg and breadcrumbs surplus crumbs
197
26 Shallow-fried fish
Professional tip
Do not overcrowd the pan because this may cause
the temperature of the oil to fall, which will affect the
efficient cooking of the fish.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,056 kJ 251 kcal 13.2 g 1.7 g 7.8 g 0.2 g 26.0 g 0.4 g 0.2 g
Pass the fish through seasoned flour Place carefully into the pan, presentation side Turn the fish gently, once, during cooking
first
Variation
When cooked, sprinkle with a mixture of grated lemon
zest, finely chopped garlic and chopped parsley (known
as gremolata).
198
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Fillet the fish and trim the fillets to neaten them.
Lemon sole (350 g) 4 10 2 Mix the cumin, salt, pepper and flour together.
Ground cumin, toasted 5g 12 g 3 Before you start cooking the fish, make sure the
Sea salt, freshly milled black pepper
other components of the dish are ready, as the
sole will cook quickly.
Plain flour 200 g 500 g
4 Heat the oil in a non-stick pan large enough to
Sunflower oil 100 ml 250 ml
cook one portion (four fillets). Pass the fillets
For the dressing
through the flour, ensuring that the whole fillet is
Shrimps, cooked and peeled 100 g 250 g coated.
Small capers 75 g 200 g 5 Place the fillets into the hot oil, presentation side
Butter, cut into small cubes 150 g 375 g first, and cook until golden. Turn and cook for a
Olive oil 50 ml 125 ml further 10 seconds, remove and place on an oven
Parsley, chopped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp tray (they will be flashed in the oven just before
serving).
Lemon, juice of 1 2
6 Repeat the process for the other portions.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium 7 Add the dressing ingredients, except the parsley
4,655 kJ 1117 kcal 74.9 g 25.2 g 39.7 g 1.6 g 74.5 g 2.3 g 1.0 g
and lemon juice, to the pan, and heat until the
butter foams and brings out the flavour of the
capers.
8 Squeeze in the lemon juice and add the parsley.
9 Flash the sole in a moderate oven. Spoon the
dressing over the sole to serve. Accompany with
purple sprouting broccoli or green salad.
199
28 Fish meunière
Professional tip
When the butter has browned, try adding a squeeze of
lemon juice or a splash of white wine for extra flavour.
Variation
Variations include the following:
l Fish meunière with almonds: as for fish meunière,
4 portions 10 portions
adding 10 g of almonds cut in short julienne or
White fish fillets, skinned 400–600 g 1–1.5 kg coarsely chopped into the meunière butter just before
it begins to turn brown. This method is usually applied
Large lemons 2 5
to trout.
Clarified butter 100 g 250 g l Fish belle meunière: as for fish meunière, with
Parsley, chopped 1 tsp 2 tsp the addition of a grilled mushroom, a slice of peeled
tomato and a soft herring roe (passed through flour
and shallow-fried), all neatly dressed on each portion
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
of fish.
1,314 kJ 313 kcal 24.1 g 10.3 g 3.1 g 0.0 g 21.2 g 0.1 g
l Fish Doria: as for fish meunière, with a sprinkling of
Many fish, whole or filleted, may be cooked by this small turned pieces of cucumber carefully cooked in
25 g of butter in a small covered pan, or blanched in
method: for example, sole, sea bass, bream, fillets of boiling salted water.
plaice, trout, brill, cod, turbot, herring and scampi. l Fish Grenobloise: as for fish meunière, the peeled
1 Prepare and clean the fish, wash and drain. lemon being cut into segments, neatly dressed on the
fish, with a few capers sprinkled over.
2 Pass through seasoned flour, shaking off all l Fish Bretonne: as for fish meunière, with a few
surplus. picked shrimps and cooked sliced mushrooms
3 Shallow-fry on both sides, presentation side first, sprinkled over the fish.
in hot clarified butter or oil. For each of these classical dishes, chefs may wish to
4 Dress neatly on an oval flat dish or plate/plates. add some chopped herbs for flavour; for example, add
chopped dill to fish Doria.
5 Peel a lemon, removing the peel, white pith and
pips.
6 Cut the lemon into slices and place one on each
portion.
7 Squeeze some lemon juice on the fish.
8 Allow 10–25 g butter per portion and colour in a
clean frying pan to the nut-brown stage (beurre
noisette).
9 Pour over the fish.
10 Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.
200
201
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,395 kJ 579 kcal 51.9 g 24.7 g 0.8 g 0.8 g 27.1 g 1.2 g 1.0 g
202
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 In a large pan place the onions, carrots, celery
and leeks, which have been cut into 2 cm pieces.
Mussels, cooked and removed 16 40
from shell 2 Just cover the vegetables with water. Bring to the
Lemons, juice of 2 5 boil. Simmer for 4–5 minutes. Remove from the
Baby spinach 200 g 500 g heat and add the rest of the ingredients.
Baby leeks 12 30 3 Cover with cling film and allow to cool to room
temperature. Place into a plastic container and
Baby asparagus, spears of 12 30
store in the fridge overnight to develop flavour.
Green beans, pieces of 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
4 Pass through a fine sieve. Any surplus nage can
Red mullet fillets (approximately 4 10
120 g each), pin bones and scales be frozen for later use.
removed 5 To finish, place 500 ml of the vegetable nage in
Nage a pan, add the mussels, a squeeze of lemon,
Large onion 1 3 spinach, baby leeks, asparagus and green beans.
Carrots, peeled 2 5 6 Bring to the boil, check the seasoning and retain.
Celery sticks 2 5 7 Heat a non-stick pan with a little vegetable oil.
Leeks 2 5 Season the mullet fillets and cook for 1 minute on
Cloves of garlic 1 3 each side (thickness dependent), starting with the
Half white and half pink peppercorns 12 30
skin side down.
Star anise 1 3
8 Divide the vegetable garnish between the bowls.
Place the red mullet on top of the vegetable
White wine 375 ml 950 ml
garnish and, returning the pan the mullet was
Noilly Prat 375 ml 950 ml cooked in to the stove, pour in the nage.
Chervil 10 g 25 g
9 When the nage has returned to the boil, spoon
Parsley 10 g 25 g over the fish and garnish. Serve immediately.
Tarragon 10 g 25 g
Chives, chopped 1 tbsp 3 tbsp Professional tip
This dish is open to many substitutions of fish and
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
shellfish but one key point to remember is that the
2,172 kJ 519 kcal 9.2 g 0.9 g 26.8 g 19.7 g 46.2 g 13.1 g 0.6 g nage should not be allowed to overpower the main
ingredients.
203
204
33 Thai fishcakes
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Place all ingredients, except the oil for cooking, in
a food processor, blend until bound together and
Salmon, filleted and skinned 100 g 250 g
smooth.
Cod, filleted and skinned 100 g 250 g
2 Turn out and divide into 12 small cakes for four
Sesame oil ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
portions (30 for ten portions). The cakes should
Cloves of garlic 2 5 be at least 2 cm thick.
Root ginger, grated 1 tbsp 2¼ tbsp 3 Heat the oil in a suitable pan. Place the fish cakes
Red chillies (small) ½ 1 in, allowing approximately 3 minutes each side.
Soy sauce 1 tsp 1½ tsp Drain on kitchen paper after frying.
Lemon grass 12 g 30 g 4 Serve immediately garnished with flat leaf parsley
Salt 2g 5g and Thai cucumber salad.
Pepper 2g 5g
Healthy eating tips
Lime juice 2 tsp 5 tsp l No added salt is needed.
Sunflower oil for cooking 2 tsp 5 tsp l Serve with plenty of fragrant Thai rice and extra
vegetables.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
395 kJ 95 kcal 5.8 g 0.9 g 0.7 g 0.2 g 10.0 g 0.1 g
205
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Take a thick-bottomed pan and add the shallots,
parsley, wine, fish stock and the cleaned mussels.
Shallots, chopped 50 g 125 g
2 Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook over a high
Parsley, chopped 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
heat until the shells open.
White wine 60 ml 150 ml
3 Drain off all the cooking liquor in a colander set
Strong fish stock 200 ml 500 ml
over a clean bowl to retain the cooking juices.
Mussels 2 kg 5 kg
4 Carefully check the mussels and discard any that
Butter 25 g 60 g have not opened.
Flour 25 g 60 g
5 Place in a dish and cover to keep warm.
Seasoning
6 Make a roux from the flour and butter; pour over
the cooking liquor, ensuring it is free from sand
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,900 kJ 452 kcal 14.3 g 5.3 g 18.1 g 0.9 g 61.4 g 0.6 g 1.5 g
and stirring continuously to avoid lumps.
7 Correct the seasoning and garnish with more
chopped parsley.
8 Pour over the mussels and serve.
Variation
For an eastern influence add a little red chilli and replace
the parsley with coriander.
206
207
208
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
Plain flour (plus a little extra for 145 g 360 g
1,914 kJ 451 kcal 3.3 g 0.6 g 77.4 g 26.1 g 28.1 g 7.8 g 0.3 g
coating)
Fecule (potato starch) 120 g 300 g
Active dry yeast 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Note
Salt ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
This can be served as a quick, hot and spicy bar dish.
Real ale or beer 300 ml 750 ml
209
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 In a shallow dish, mix together the garlic, lime
juice, lemon juice, chillies, olive oil and honey.
Clove of garlic, crushed 1 3
2 Make an incision (don’t cut all the way through –
Lime, juice of 1 2½
leave the prawn intact) in the back of each prawn
Lemon, juice of ½ 1¼
and remove the entrails. Wash and dry well.
Mild red chillies, deseeded and 2 5
finely chopped 3 Add the prawns to the oil/chilli mix, season
with black pepper and marinate in the fridge for
Olive oil 1 tbsp 3 tbsp
30 minutes.
Honey 1 tbsp 3 tbsp
4 Meanwhile, prepare the green salad, salsa verde
Extra large prawns, raw, shells on, 32 80
heads removed and garlic bread.
Black pepper 5 Remove the prawns from the marinade and heat
To serve a small amount of oil in a non-stick frying pan.
Salsa verde (see page 101) 100 ml 250 ml 6 Place the prawns in the pan and cook until pink
Garlic bread 4 slices 10 slices
and cooked through, basting with any leftover
marinade while cooking.
Green salad
7 To serve, place warm garlic bread on plates and
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
pile the prawns up on top, allowing the cooking
728 kJ 173 kcal 3.8 g 0.6 g 6.6 g 6.3 g 28.6 g 0.1 g 0.3 g juices to run into the bread. Drizzle with salsa
verde and serve with the salad.
210
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Wrap the scallops in the pancetta, pin with a
cocktail stick and season (be mindful that the
Large scallops, shelled, roe and 12 30
skirt removed, washed pancetta is salty).
Pancetta bacon rashers (rind off) 12 30 2 Heat the oil in a non-stick pan, place the scallops
Olive oil 50 ml 125 ml in and cook until golden-brown. Squeeze the
lemon over the scallops and allow the juice to
Lemon 1 2½
evaporate slightly.
Asparagus sticks, peeled, blanched 16 40
for 1 minute and refreshed 3 Remove from the pan and retain with all the pan
Seasoning juices.
4 Return the pan to the heat and add the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium asparagus, cooking for a further 2 minutes.
1,705 kJ 410 kcal 26.8 g 6.9 g 5.9 g 2.8 g 36.4 g 2.3 g 1.3 g
5 To serve, divide the asparagus on to plates. Top
with the scallops, pour over the pan juices and
serve.
211
No. Recipe Page 24 Sirloin steak with red wine (entrecôte 256
bordelaise)
Grilled lamb dishes
25 Beef stroganoff 257
1 Grilled lamb cutlets (côtelettes d’agneau 236
grillées) 26 Hamburg or Vienna steak 258
2 Mixed grill 236 Braised beef dishes
3 Lamb kebabs (shish kebab) 237 27 Carbonnade of beef 259
5 Grilled loin or chump chops, or noisettes of 239 29 Braised beef (boeuf braisé) 261
lamb Steamed/boiled beef dishes
Fried lamb dishes 30 Boiled silverside, carrots and dumplings 263
6 Lamb rosettes with thyme and blueberries 239 31 Steak pudding 264
7 Noisettes of lamb with baby ratatouille 240 Beef stew dishes
8 Lamb valentine steaks with fresh pea 240 32 Goulash 266
hummus
Baked beef dishes
9 Samosas 241
33 Cornish pasties 267
Braised lamb dishes
34 Steak pie 268
10 Braised lamb chump chops (chop d’agneau 243
braisées) Roast beef dishes
11 Braised lamb shanks 244 35 Roast wing of beef 270
12 Hot pot of lamb or mutton 245 36 Yorkshire pudding 271
Lamb stews 37 Slow-cooked sirloin with lyonnaise onions 272
and carrot purée
13 Brown lamb or mutton stew 246
Fried veal dishes
14 Irish stew 247
38 Escalope of veal 273
Roast lamb dishes
39 Breadcrumbed veal escalope with ham and 274
15 Roast leg of lamb with mint, lemon and cumin 248 cheese (escalope de veau cordon bleu)
16 Roast saddle of lamb with rosemary mash 249 40 Veal escalope with Parma ham and 275
17 Best end of lamb with breadcrumbs and 250 mozzarella cheese (involtini di vitello)
parsley Braised veal dishes
18 Slow-cooked shoulder of lamb with potatoes 251 41 Fricassée of veal 276
boulangère
42 Braised shin of veal (osso buco) 278
19 Pot-roast shoulder of lamb with gratin 252
forcemeat Fried pork dishes
Lamb combined cooking 43 Pork escalope with calvados sauce 279
20 Shepherd’s pie 253 44 Sweet and sour pork 280
Grilled beef dishes 45 Stir-fried pork fillet 281
21 Grilled beef 254 Braised pork dishes
22 Hamburger, American style 254 46 Sauerkraut, ham hock and lentils 281
213
214
enzymes that gradually break down the protein cell walls Canning
as the carcass ages; that is why meat is hung for 10 to 20 Large quantities of meat are canned; corned beef is an
days in controlled conditions of temperature and humidity example with a very high protein content. Pork is used for
before being offered for sale. Meat that has been aged tinned luncheon meat. Ham cuts are also available in cans.
longer is more expensive as the cost of refrigeration is high
and the meat itself shrinks because of evaporation and the Salting
trimming of the outside hardened edges. The salt draws out moisture and creates an environment in
which bacteria find it difficult to multiply. If salted in cold
Kosher and halal meat weather (so that the meat does not spoil while the salt has
Meat that is sold as kosher or halal must have been time to take effect), salted meat can last for years. Salting is
slaughtered according to the food laws of Judaism (kosher) still used with bacon, before the meat is smoked, and hams.
or Islam (halal). It is also used for some beef products, for example dried
beef, corned beef and pastrami, which are made by soaking
Kosher slaughter is done by a quick, deep stroke across
beef in a 10 per cent salt water brine for several weeks. Meat
the throat with a sharp blade. This is considered painless,
can be pickled in brine; this method of preservation may be
causes unconsciousness within two seconds and is widely
applied to silverside, brisket and ox tongues.
recognised as the most humane method of slaughter
possible. The animal is bled completely, and the meat
soaked in suet and water to remove any residual blood, Preparing meat
because blood must not be consumed in a kosher diet. Refer to the sections on different types of meat below for
Halal slaughter is done by cutting the throat or piercing the further detail on preparation methods. The following food
hollow of the throat, causing a quick death with the least safety points should be taken into account to reduce the
pain possible. The blood is completely drained from the risk of cross-contamination when preparing meat:
carcass. Halal slaughter is preceded by a prayer. l When preparing uncooked meat, offal or poultry, and
then cooked food, or changing from one type of meat,
offal or poultry to another, equipment, working areas
Storing meat and utensils must be thoroughly cleaned or changed.
Meat that is chilled is kept at a temperature just above l Where colour-coded boards are used, it is essential to
freezing point in a controlled atmosphere. Meat should be always use the correct colour-coded boards for the
hung and stored between 0 °C and 1 °C. preparation of foods, and different ones for cooked
Chilled meat cannot be kept in the usual type of cold room foods.
l Clean all work surfaces with detergent and sanitiser
for more than a few days, although sufficient time must be
allowed for the meat to hang, enabling it to become tender. to kill bacteria. This is particularly important when
Beef can be stored for up to three weeks, veal for one to handling poultry and pork.
three weeks, lamb for 10 to 15 days, and pork 7 to 14 days. For information on maintaining a safe and secure working
environment; a professional and hygienic appearance; and
Health and safety clean food production areas, equipment and utensils, as
Store uncooked meat, offal and poultry on trays to well as food hygiene, please refer to Chapters 1 and 3.
prevent dripping, ideally in separate refrigerators, at
a temperature of 1 °C to 4 °C. If separate refrigerators
are not available, then store in separate areas of the Cooking meat
refrigerator, with uncooked meat at the bottom and Meat is an extremely versatile product that can be cooked
cooked meat above it. in a multitude of ways and matched with practically any
vegetable, fruit and herb. The cut (shin, steak, brisket and
Other preservation methods so on), the method of cooking (roasting, braising, grilling)
and the time and temperature all affect the way the meat
Freezing
will taste.
Small carcasses, such as lamb and mutton, can be frozen
without affecting their quality. They can be kept frozen until Raw meat is difficult to chew because the muscle fibre
required and then thawed out before being used. Some contains an elastic protein (collagen), which is softened only
beef is frozen, but it is inferior in quality to chilled beef. by mincing – as in steak tartare – or by cooking. When you
215
cook meat, the protein gradually coagulates as the internal to its strength; collagen (the main muscle proteins, which
temperature increases. At 77 °C coagulation is complete, the amount to the highest proportion of mass in the muscle)
protein begins to harden and further cooking makes the is tough and chewy. Meat that has a higher proportion of
meat tougher. both, usually from the major and highly worked muscle
groups, would not be suitable for prime cooking (e.g. grilling
Professional tip or frying). However, these cuts of meat may be cooked for
Meat bones are useful for giving flavour to soups and longer at the correct temperature (braising), dissolving the
stocks, especially beef ones with plenty of marrow. Veal collagen as it is water soluble, forming gelatine and offering
bones are gelatinous and help to enrich and thicken a tasty joint of meat.
soups and sauces. Fat can be rendered down for frying
or used as an ingredient, such as suet or lard used in Prime cuts, such as beef fillets, have little collagen in their
pastry. make-up (approximately 3 per cent) and do not require
long cooking to tenderise them. Although most chefs
would adopt a high temperature for a short period on the
Time and temperature in meat prime cuts, this does not always lead to a perfect result. Due
cookery to the lack of fat and collagen in such cuts of meat, high
Since tenderness combined with flavour is the aim in heat will dry out the muscle fibres and, consequently, the
meat cookery, much depends on the ratio of time and eating quality is impaired. A lower temperature and longer
temperature. In principle, slow cooking retains the juices in the oven will produce a gradual heat, therefore there is
and produces a more tender result than fast cooking at high less extreme coagulation in the tissues and less fluid will be
temperatures. There are, of course, occasions when high squeezed out in the process.
temperatures are essential: for instance, you need to grill a
Sirloin of beef has more collagen than fillet (it is essentially
steak under a hot flame for a very limited time to obtain
a worked muscle group) and is generally cooked on
a crisp, brown surface and a pink, juicy interior – using a
a high heat, either roasted or pan-fried. Using a slow
low temperature would not give you the desired result. But,
cooking method, however, you can prepare sirloin that
in potentially tough cuts, such as breast, or where there is
is extremely tender, full of moisture, with a roasted outer
a quantity of connective tissue (e.g. neck of lamb), a slow
and a flavoursome roasted meat taste. An average sirloin
rate of cooking converts the tissues to gelatine and helps to
joint for roasting can weigh from 2 kg to 5 kg whole off the
make the meat more tender. Meat containing bone will take
bone. The method is to seal the meat on the outside, as
longer to cook because bone is a poor conductor of heat.
you would normally, place into a preheated oven at 180 °C,
Tough or coarse cuts of meat should be cooked by braising, cook for 10 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 64 °C
pot roasting or stewing. Marinating in a suitable marinade, (the oven door will need to be open at this stage). Once
such as wine and wine vinegar, helps to tenderise the meat the oven has come down to 64 °C, close the door and cook
and imparts an additional flavour. Searing meat in hot fat or for a further 1 hour and 50 minutes. This will give you an
in a hot oven before roasting or stewing helps to produce extremely tender piece of sirloin.
a crisp exterior by coagulating the protein but does not,
To maintain the quality and safety of meat and poultry
as is widely supposed, seal in the juices. However, if the
dishes, it is advisable to check internal temperatures using
external temperature is too high and cooking prolonged,
a probe. The recommended temperatures are shown in
rapid evaporation and contraction of the meat will cause
Table 10.1.
considerable loss of juices and fat. Salt sprinkled on meat
before cooking will also hasten loss of moisture since salt Table 10.1 Recommended internal temperatures
absorbs water. Meat Recommended internal temperature
When fibrous proteins are heated they contract and Beef rare 52 °C, medium 57 °C, well done 62 °C
squeeze out the associated water. For example, when a Duck pink 57 °C; well done 62 °C
steak is cooked the proteins contract, therefore squeezing Lamb pink 57 °C, well done 62 °C
out all the water/juices. If the heat is increased or continues,
Pork 73 °C
the steak will become dry and the eating quality will be
Turkey/chicken 77 °C
impaired. Cuts of meat also contain elastin and collagen:
elastin (the muscle group associated with tendons and Veal 62 °C
arteries) is extremely stretchy and further cooking adds Environmental health officers may require higher temperatures.
216
Professional tip
Mutton fell out of favour in the UK for some years but
2 2
has recently become more popular, backed by the 4 7
Mutton Renaissance campaign, which was supported 6
5 1 2
by several well-known chefs and the Prince of Wales.
Using mutton is good for food sustainability – because 3 7
the animals are not killed young they are larger than
lambs and have a higher yield.
6
5 4 4
6 7 2
1 5
3
217
Table 10.2 Lamb and mutton joints, their uses and weights
Health and safety
Approx. weight (kg)
Wear a safety apron for protection when using a boning
Joint Uses Lamb Mutton knife. If you are doing a great deal of boning then
Whole 16 25 consider protective gloves as well.
carcass
Shoulder (1) Roasting, stewing 3 4.5
Video: making
Leg (2) Roasting (mutton 3.5 5.5 brown lamb
boiled) stew
http://bit.ly/
Breast (3) Roasting, stewing 1.5 2.5
1CIMkfD
Middle neck Stewing 2 3
(4)
Knuckle bone
Scrag-end Stewing, broth 0.5 1
(5) Upper arm bone
Best end/ Roasting, grilling, 2 3
rack (6) frying
Saddle (7) Roasting, grilling, 3.5 5.5
frying Blade bone
218
Saddle of lamb
If the saddle is to be roasted:
l skin and remove the kidney
l trim the excess fat and sinew
l cut off the flaps, leaving about 15 cm each side so as to
meet in the middle under the saddle
l remove the aitch, or pelvic, bone
l score neatly and tie with string.
For presentation the tail may be left on, protected with foil
and tied back. The saddle can also be completely boned,
stuffed and tied.
Lamb loin chops
Preparing a loin of lamb
If the loin is to be roasted:
l skin and remove excess fat and sinew
l remove the pelvic bone and tie with string.
219
1 Remove the bark/skin, working 2 Mark or score the fat, 2 cm from 3 Score down the middle of the
from head to tail and from breast the end of the bones. back of each bone, scoring the
to back. Leave as much fat as cartilage.
possible on the joint.
4 Pull the skin fat and meat from the 5 Remove the elastin as shown, then 6 Trim the overall length of the
bone (to bring out the bone ends clean the sinew from between the bones to two and a half times the
– this is an alternative to scraping rib bones. length of the nut of meat. Score
them). the fat neatly to approximately
2 mm deep and tie the joint.
Lamb cutlets
220
Shoulder Service
To obtain reasonable-sized slices of meat, carve the flesh
All roast joints are served garnished with watercress and a
side, not the skin side, of the joint. Having obtained the
sauceboat of roast gravy separately. When carved, serve a
slices, carve round the bones. Due to the awkward shape
little gravy over the slices as well as offering a sauceboat
of the bone structure, the shoulder is normally boned out,
of gravy. Mint sauce should be served with roast lamb
rolled and tied before cooking to facilitate carving.
and redcurrant jelly should be available. For roast mutton,
redcurrant jelly and/or onion sauce should be served, with
Roast saddle mint sauce available.
l Carving on the bone: there are two usual ways of
carving the saddle, one is by carving lengthways either
side of the backbone, the other by making a deep cut Beef
lengthwise either side of the backbone and then slicing Quality points
across each loin. It is usual to carve the saddle in thick
l The lean meat should be bright red with small flecks of
slices.
white fat (marbled).
l Carving off the bone: for economical kitchen carving
l The fat should be firm, brittle in texture, creamy-white
it is often best to bone the loins out whole, carve into
in colour and odourless. Older animals and dairy breeds
slices, then reform on the saddle bone.
have fat that is usually a deeper-yellow colour.
l The fillets may be left on the saddle or removed; in
either case they are carved and served with the rest of
the meat. Butchery
A side of beef weighs approximately 180 kg. A whole side is
divided between the wing ribs and the fore ribs.
3 underneath
Video: beef
hindquarter
joints
http://bit.ly/
2 6 7 10 11 12 13
5 1G36Ecv
4 8
1 16
14 15
17
A side of beef
3 underneath 1 Shin 9A Fat and kidney
2 Topside 10 Fore rib
3 Silverside 11 Middle rib
9
7
4 Thick flank 12 Chuck rib
2 5 9A 5 Rump 13 Sticking piece
4 6
1
6 Sirloin 14 Plate
8
7 Wing ribs 15 Brisket
8 Thin flank 16 Leg of mutton cut
A hindquarter of beef in more detail 9 Fillet 17 Shank
221
222
l Silverside is taken from the hindquarters; this is a l Porterhouse steaks: cut including the bone from the
cut from the round. It can be pot roasted or used for rib end of the sirloin.
traditional boiled beef. l T-bone steaks: cut from the rump end of the sirloin,
l Flank is a boneless cut from the mid-to-hindquarters; it including the bone and fillet.
is suitable for braising or stewing.
l Skirt is a boneless, rather gristly cut. It is usually stewed
or made into mince.
l Brisket is a cut from the fore end of the animal, below
the shoulder. Quite a fatty joint, it is sold on or off the
bone or salted. It is suitable for slow roasting.
T-bone steaks
Fillet
As a fillet of beef can vary from 2.5–4.5 kg it follows that
there must be considerable variation in the number of
Fillet and loin of beef steaks obtained from it. In this list of the different fillet
steaks, it is assumed that a 3 kg fillet is used.
Sirloin l Chateaubriand: double fillet steak 3 to 10 cm thick,
If the sirloin is to be roasted whole on the bone (l’aloyau de two to four portions (average weight 300 g to 1 kg). Cut
boeuf): from the head of the fillet, trim off all the nerves and
l Saw through the chine bone. leave a little fat on the steak.
l Lift back the covering fat in one piece for approximately l Fillet steaks: approximately four steaks of 100 to
10 cm. 150 g each, 1.5 to 2 cm thick. These are trimmed as for
l Trim off the sinew and replace the covering fat. chateaubriand.
l Tie with string if necessary. l Tournedos: approximately six to eight at 100 g each, 2
l Ensure that the fillet has been removed. to 4 cm thick. Continue cutting down the fillet. Remove
all the nerve and fat tissue, and tie each tournedos with
To roast the whole sirloin boned out:
string.
l Remove the fillet and bone out the sirloin. Remove the
l Tail of fillet is another possible cut. The tail of a 3 kg fillet
sinew.
will weigh approximately 0.5 kg. Remove all fat and sinew,
l Remove the excess fat and sinew from the boned side.
and slice or mince as required. This cut is useful for dishes
l This joint may be roasted open or rolled and tied with
that need small pieces of tender beef, such as stir-fries.
string.
Middle Head
Sirloin may be cut into various steaks for grilling or frying: Tournedos, fillet Chateaubriand
l Minute steaks: cut into 1 cm slices, flatten with a cutlet steak whole joint fillet steaks
Tail
bat dipped in water, making as thin as possible, then Mignon
trim.
l Sirloin steaks (entrecôte): cut into 1 cm-thick slices
and trim (approximate weight 150 g).
l Double sirloin steaks: cut into 2 cm-thick slices and
Cuts of fillet of beef
trim (approximate weight 250–300 g).
223
The whole fillet may be roasted or pot roasted (poèlé). Wing rib (côte de boeuf)
Remove the head and tail of the fillet, leaving an even This joint usually consists of the last three rib bones, which,
centre piece from which all the nerve and fat is removed. because of their curved shape, act as a natural trivet.
This may be larded by inserting pieces of fat bacon, cut into Because of its prime quality it is a first-class roasting joint,
long strips, with a larding needle. hot or cold, particularly when it is to be carved in front of
the customer.
To prepare, the chine needs to be Cut seven-eighths of the way through Saw through the rib bones on the
removed from the joint the spine or chine bone and remove the underside, 5–10 cm from the end, to
nerve finish removing the chine
Trim and clean the top bone Remove the elastin Tie the bone firmly back with string; it will
act as a trivet
Fore ribs and middle ribs from the forequarter are prepared 2 Seasoning: add salt and pepper, and brush lightly
in the same way as wing rib. with oil before placing on the barbecue. Take care
when using marinades as some may contain glucose,
Other cuts which burns easily. Try marinating with wine and herbs;
l Thin flank from the hindquarter: trim off excessive fat avoid marinating oils, which may ignite and spoil the
and cut or roll as required. barbecue.
l Chuck ribs, sticking piece, brisket, plate, leg 3 Choice and preparation of barbecue: gas is the
of mutton cut and shank are all cuts from the preferred choice for temperature control. Allow time
forequarter. Bone out, remove excess fat and sinew, and to preheat the barbecue (30 minutes for gas, 1½ hours
use as required. for charcoal). If cooking on charcoal, always wait for
the flames to go out and the embers to start glowing
Barbecue cooking before starting to cook.
– Secure a layer of tinfoil over the barbecue.
1 Choice of meat: some fat is required for flavour, but
– Wait until the grill bars are hot or the charcoal
not too much. Ensure size and thickness are uniform
embers glow.
to allow even cooking. Suitable cuts include: T-bone
– Remove tin foil and brush the grill bars with a firm,
steaks, rib steaks, double lamb chops and noisettes,
long-handled wire brush to remove any unwanted
well-trimmed pork cutlets and steaks.
debris.
224
4 Cooking: place the seasoned and lightly oiled meat at When using a temperature probe, insert it into the part
a 45° angle on the barbecue and seal one side. Rotate of the meat that was thickest before the food was placed
through another 45°, allow to cook, then turn the meat under the grill. The internal temperature reached should be
and repeat the process: this creates attractive markings as follows:
on the meat. Control the temperature and do not let l rare: 45–50 °C
the meat burn or blacken unnecessarily. Only cook as l medium: 55–60 °C
much meat as required at one time; if left for too long l well done: 75–77 °C.
it will dry out and become tough. Use a meat probe
You can also check how well done grilled meat is by using
to ensure the desired internal temperature is reached.
finger pressure. The springiness, or resilience, of the meat
‘Made-up’ items such as burgers and sausages must be
and the amount of blood issuing from it indicates the
cooked thoroughly to the centre.
degree to which it is cooked. This calls for experience, but
5 Serve with fresh, crisp vegetables or salads and
if the meat is placed on a plate and tested, then the more
traditional barbecue dips and sauces.
underdone the steak, the greater the springiness and the
more blood will be shown on the plate.
Health and safety
Burgers and sausages should be cut open, checked
and cooked for longer if necessary. Barbecued food Veal
may look well cooked when it isn’t. Veal is obtained from good-quality carcasses weighing
around 100 kg. This quality of veal is required for first-
Testing whether beef is cooked class cookery and is produced from calves slaughtered at
between 12 and 24 weeks.
Roast joints Veal is available all year round.
When using a temperature probe, insert it into the part of
the joint that was thickest before the food was placed in
the oven. The internal temperature reached should be as Quality points
follows: l The flesh should be pale pink in colour and firm in
l rare meat: 55–60 °C structure – not soft or flabby.
l medium done: 66–71 °C l Cut surfaces should be slightly moist, not dry.
l well done: 78–80 °C. l Bones, in young animals, should be pinkish white,
To test without a temperature probe: porous and with a degree of blood in their structure.
l remove the joint from the oven and place on a plate or
l The fat should be firm and pinkish white.
dish l The kidney should be firm and well covered with fat.
l firmly press the surface of the meat so that some juice Where applicable, when offering veal on a menu, give the
issues origin and breed of the veal.
l check the colour of the juice: red indicates the meat is
underdone; pink indicates the meat is medium done;
clear indicates that the meat is cooked through.
The veal carcass
The average weight of English or Dutch milk-fed veal calves
is 18 kg. The joints of veal are shown in the diagram and
Grilled beef
Table 10.6.
The degrees of cooking for grilled meat are:
l very rare (or blue): cooked over a fierce heat for a few The order of dissection for a veal carcass is as follows:
seconds on each side 1 Remove the shoulders.
l rare: the cooked meat has a reddish tinge 2 Remove the breast.
l medium: the cooked meat is slightly pinkish 3 Take off the leg.
l well done: thoroughly cooked with no sign of pinkness. 4 Divide the loin and best end from the scrag and neck
end.
5 Divide the loin from the best end.
225
6
7 4
3 2
5
1
226
The loin Using a boning knife, carefully remove The joint and the fillet
the fillet
Bring the loin down from the rib to the Trim the excess fat and sinew from the The fillet, boned loin and bones (which
backbone, and trim the rib bones meat can be used for stock)
227
l
texture.
The fat should be white, firm, smooth and not excessive.
Preparing joints and cuts of pork
l Bones should be small, fine and pinkish. Leg
l The skin or rind should be smooth. l For roasting: remove the pelvic or aitch bone, trim and
score the rind neatly – that is, with a sharp-pointed knife
The pork carcass make a series of 3 mm-deep incisions approximately
2 cm apart all over the skin of the joint; trim and clean
The cuts of pork are shown in the diagram below and their the knuckle bone.
uses in Table 10.8. l For boiling: it is usual to pickle the joint either by
rubbing dry salt and saltpetre (potassium nitrate) into
1 Leg
the meat or by soaking it in a brine solution (see recipe
2 3 2 Loin
6
21);
3 Spare ribremove
then of neck the pelvic bone, trim and secure with
1 4 Belly
string if necessary.
4 5 5 Shoulder
6 Head
Loin
1 Leg l For roasting (on the bone): saw down the chine
2 Loin
2 3
3 Spare rib of neck
bone in order to facilitate carving; trim the excess fat
6
4 Belly and sinew and score the rind in the direction that the
4 5 5 Shoulder
6 Head
joint will be carved; season and secure with string.
l For roasting (boned out): remove the fillets and
Pig carcass dissection bone out carefully; trim off the excess fat and sinew,
score the rind and neaten the flap. Season, replace the
filet mignon, roll up and secure the string. This joint is
sometimes stuffed.
228
Pork chops
Boned leg of pork
Spare rib
l For roasting: remove the excess fat, bone and sinew,
and trim neatly.
l For grilling: remove the excess fat, bone and sinew,
cut into individual ribs or leave as a rack, and marinade
for at least 2 hours.
l For pies: remove the excess fat and sinew, bone out
and cut as required.
Shoulder
l For roasting: the shoulder is usually boned out, the
excess fat and sinew removed, seasoned, scored and
rolled with string; it may be stuffed and can also be
divided into two smaller joints.
l For sausages or pies: skin, bone out and remove the
Loin of pork excess fat and sinew; cut into even pieces or mince.
229
Belly
Pork belly before it is prepared for Remove all the small rib bones Cut the fat
roasting
Score the fat Season with salt, pepper and chopped Roll and secure with string; this joint may
sage be stuffed
Bacon Quality
Bacon is the cured flesh of a bacon-weight pig that is l There should be no sign of stickiness.
specifically reared for bacon (because its shape and size l There should be a pleasant smell.
yield economic bacon joints). Bacon is cured either by dry l The rind should be thin, smooth and free from wrinkles.
salting and then smoking or by soaking in brine followed by l The fat should be white, smooth and not excessive in
smoking. Green bacon is brine-cured but not smoked; it has proportion to the lean meat.
a milder flavour but does not keep for as long as smoked l The lean meat should be a deep-pink colour and firm.
bacon.
Depending on the degree of salting during the curing
process, bacon joints may or may not require soaking in
cold water before being cooked.
Do not confuse ham with gammon. Ham is meat taken
from the carcass before salting or smoking and cooking,
where gammon is taken from the carcass after brining and
smoking.
230
A side of bacon
Table 10.9 Cuts, uses and weights of bacon
Approx. Gammon
Joint Uses weight (kg)
Collar Boiling, grilling 4.5
Hock Boiling, grilling 4.5
Back Grilling, frying 9
Streaky Grilling, frying 4.5
Gammon Boiling, grilling, frying 7.5
Collar
l For boiling: remove bone (if any) and tie with string.
l Rashers for grilling: remove the rind, trim off the
outside surface and cut into thin slices (rashers) across
the joint.
Gammon steaks
Hock
Leave whole or bone out and secure with string. The hock
is usually boiled. Offal and other edible
Back and streaky bacon
parts of the carcass
Offal is the name given to the edible parts taken from the
l Rashers for grilling: remove all bones and rind, and
inside of a carcass of meat, including the liver, kidneys, heart
cut into thin rashers.
and sweetbreads. Tripe, brains, tongue, head and oxtail are
l Rashers or chops for frying: remove the rind, trim off
also sometimes included under this term.
the outside surface and cut into rashers or chops of the
required thickness. Fresh offal (unfrozen) should be purchased as required
and can be refrigerated under hygienic conditions at a
temperature of 1–4 °C. Frozen offal must be kept in a deep
freeze at −18 °C or below, and defrosted in a refrigerator as
required.
231
Skin the kidneys, and remove any fat and gristle Split the kidney three-quarters of the way through, and open it
up
Lift up and cut out the white sinew in the centre Kidneys before, during and after preparation
232
Preparing sweetbreads
l Soak in cold salted water for two to three hours to
remove blood, which would darken the sweetbreads
during cooking. Use several changes of water for calves’
sweetbreads.
l Wash well, blanch, trim and refresh.
l For calves’ sweetbreads, peel off the membrane and
Veal kidneys
connective tissue.
l The sweetbreads can then be pressed between two
Hearts trays with a weight on top, and refrigerated.
Hearts are a good source of protein, which is needed for
growth and repair of the body.
l Lamb’s hearts are small and light; they are normally
served whole.
l Sheep’s hearts are dark and solid; they can be dry and
tough unless cooked carefully.
l Ox or beef hearts are dark coloured and solid, and
tend to be dry and tough.
l Calf’s hearts, coming from a younger animal, are
lighter in colour and more tender.
Before cooking, remove the arterial tubes and excess fat.
Most hearts need slow braising to tenderise them.
Veal sweetbreads
233
Suet is the fat that surrounds the kidneys. Beef suet should Forcemeats are used for galantines, raised pies, terrines,
be creamy-white, brittle and dry. Other meat fat should be meatballs and a wide variety of other dishes.
fresh, not sticky, and with no unpleasant smell.
Crépinettes
Bone marrow These are small sausages, usually made from a forcemeat
Marrow is obtained from the bones of the leg of beef. It of veal, lamb, pork or chicken, encased either in caul (a thin
should be of good size, firm, creamy-white and odourless. membrane of fat from the intestines) or paper-thin slices
Sliced, poached marrow may be used as a garnish for some of salt pork. Other ingredients are sometimes added (e.g.
meat dishes and savouries. chopped mushrooms or truffles). Crépinettes are usually
covered with melted butter or good quality oil, coated with
fresh white breadcrumbs and grilled, sautéed or cooked in
Bones the oven. Traditionally they are served with potato purée
Bones must be fresh, not sticky, with no unpleasant smell, and a well-flavoured demi-glace sauce.
and preferably meaty (as they are used for stock, the
foundation for so many preparations).
234
Test yourself
1 List two quality points to look for when buying beef.
2 Describe how to store uncooked meat in a refrigerator.
3 Describe the stages in the preparation of a best end of lamb.
4 What are the benefits of sealing meat before cooking?
5 Give two reasons why braising is a suitable cooking method for neck of veal.
6 Describe the stages in the preparation and cooking of a leg of pork.
7 List four quality points to look for when buying pork.
8 List two quality points to look for when buying calves’ liver.
9 Why is braising the most appropriate cooking method for hearts?
10 Describe how to prepare sweetbreads for cooking.
235
Lamb dishes
2 Mixed grill
236
Note
Kebabs, a dish of Turkish origin, are pieces of food
impaled and cooked on skewers over a grill or barbecue.
There are many variations and different flavours can be
added by marinating the kebabs in oil, wine, vinegar or
lemon juice with spices and herbs for 1–2 hours before
cooking.
Kebabs can be made using tender cuts, or mince of
lamb and beef, pork, liver, kidney, bacon, ham, sausage
and chicken, using either the meats individually or
combining two or three. Vegetables and fruit can also
be added (e.g. onion, apple, pineapple, peppers,
tomatoes, aubergine). Kebabs can be made using
vegetables exclusively (e.g. peppers, onion, aubergine,
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium tomatoes). Kebabs are usually served with a pilaff rice
1,544 kJ 372 kcal 25.1 g 9.9 g 7.2 g 5.9 g 29.6 g 2.0 g 0.1 g (see page 125).
The ideal cuts of lamb are the nut of the lean meat of the
1 Cut the meat into cubes and place on skewers
loin, best end or boned-out meat from a young shoulder
with squares of green pepper, tomato, onion and of lamb.
bay leaves in between. The pieces of lamb and
vegetables must be cut evenly so that they will
cook evenly Variation
2 Sprinkle with chopped thyme and cook over a hot Miniature kebabs (one mouthful) can be made, impaled
grill. on cocktail sticks, grilled and served as an amuse-
bouche, or as a hot snack at receptions.
Serve with pilaff rice, or with chickpeas and finely
sliced raw onion. Fish kebabs can be made using a firm fish, such as
monkfish or tuna, and marinating in olive oil, lemon or
lime juice, chopped fennel or dill, garlic and a dash of
Tabasco or Worcester sauce.
237
4 Lamb satay
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Fresh coriander leaves, finely 3 tsp 1 tbsp
1,624 kJ 391 kcal 29.3 g 10.2 g 13.3 g 11.7 g 19.6 g 2.4 g 0.7 g chopped
1 Prepare the lamb, cutting it into thin strips. 6 Prepare the sauce by placing the vinegar and
2 In a bowl place the garlic, sauces, ginger, lime sugar in a small pan, stirring until the sugar
juice, peanut butter and spices. Mix well. has dissolved. Bring to the boil and simmer for
2 minutes. Stir in the remaining ingredients.
3 Put the lamb into the marinade, stir and put in
refrigerator for 3 hours or overnight. 7 Serve the lamb on a suitable platter on banana
leaves (optional) with the dipping sauce in a bowl
4 Meanwhile, soak some bamboo skewers in water
in the centre.
for about an hour to prevent scorching.
5 Thread the lamb on to the skewers. Grill the lamb
skewers, turning once until cooked and nicely
coloured.
238
Variation
Sprigs of rosemary or other herbs may be laid on the
chops during the last few minutes of grilling to impart
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium flavour.
1,338 kJ 320 kcal 16.1 g 7.4 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 43.8 g 0.0 g 0.1 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3197 kJ 771 kcal 63.0 g 28.0 g 6.1 g 4.6 g 35.0 g 1.3 g 0.4 g
1 Shallow-fry the rosettes in the olive oil. 4 Add the blueberries, then season.
2 Deglaze the pan with the wine, then add the 5 Serve the lamb with the blueberries and the
thyme. sauce.
3 Add the lamb stock and reduce to a sauce
consistency. Note
Risotto makes a suitable accompaniment.
239
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
4152 kJ 1002 kcal 86.0 g 26.0 g 15.4 g 4.2 g 43.0 g 1.0 g 0.3 g
1 Prepare the valentine steaks. 3 Lightly season the valentines. Shallow-fry in olive
2 To make the hummus, cook the peas in boiling oil until golden brown and slightly pink.
salted water and drain well. Purée in a food 4 Serve on individual plates on a bed of pea
processor with the garlic, cumin, lemon juice, hummus, garnished with fresh mint. Alternatively,
mint, olive oil and tahini paste. serve the steaks on plates with the pea hummus
piped as a rosette, and a circle of lamb jus around.
240
9 Samosas
Filling 2: lamb
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,740 kJ 682 kcal 43.9 g 15.2 g 49.5 g 2.0 g 25.5 g 3.0 g 0.5 g Saffron ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
Using short paste and lamb filling. Boiling water 2½ tsp 6¼ tsp
Vegetable oil 3 tsp 7½ tsp
Filling 1: potato Fresh ginger, finely chopped 12 g 30 g
Cloves of garlic, crushed and 2 5
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions chopped
Potatoes, peeled 200 g 500 g Onions, finely chopped 50 g 125 g
Vegetable oil 1½ tsp 3¾ tsp Salt, to taste
Black mustard seeds ½ tsp 1¼ tsp Lean lamb, minced 400 g 1 kg
Onions, finely chopped 50 g 125 g Pinch of cayenne pepper
Fresh ginger, finely chopped 12 g 30 g Garam masala 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Fennel seeds 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Cumin seeds ¼ tsp 1 tsp 1 Infuse the saffron in the boiling water; allow to
stand for 10 minutes.
Turmeric ¼ tsp 1 tsp
2 Heat the vegetable oil in a suitable pan. Add
Frozen peas 75 g 187 g
the ginger, garlic, onions and salt, stirring
Salt, to taste
continuously. Fry for 7–8 minutes, until the onions
Water 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp are soft and golden brown.
Fresh coriander, finely chopped 1 tsp 2½ tsp 3 Stir in the lamb, add the saffron with the water.
Garam masala ½ tsp 2½ tsp Cook, stirring the lamb until it is cooked.
Pinch of cayenne pepper 4 Add the cayenne and garam masala, reduce
the heat and allow to cook gently for a further
1 Cut the potatoes into 0.5 cm dice; cook in water 10 minutes.
until only just cooked.
5 The mixture should be fairly tight with very little
2 Heat the oil in a suitable pan, add the mustard moisture.
seeds and cook until they pop.
6 Transfer to a bowl and allow to cool before using.
3 Add the onions and ginger. Fry for 7–8 minutes,
stirring continuously until golden brown.
241
Ingredient 16–20 pasties 40–50 pasties Allow 4 or 5 samosas for a portion. They can also be
served individually as finger food.
Short pastry made from ghee fat 400 g 1 kg
and fairly strong flour (the dough The samosas may be made in advance, covered with
must be fairly elastic) cling film or plastic, and refrigerated before being
Or filo or spring roll pastry deep-fried.
Samosas can be garnished with coriander leaves and
served with chutney.
Healthy eating tips
l Use the minimum of salt in the potato filling.
No added salt is necessary with the lamb.
l Use a small amount of unsaturated oil to fry the
mustard seeds, onions and lamb.
l Drain off the excess fat before adding the water.
1 Cut the paste into strips approx. 2 Eggwash the upper side of the 3 Flip over the pocket, ease it open
18 × 7 cm. Fold over the end of the pastry, then fold over the top part and fill it.
pastry. to form a pocket.
4 Once completely full, eggwash the 5 Fold over the pastry and wrap it
top edge and the flap of pastry. round the seal the samosa.
6 Deep-fry until golden brown and
crisp.
242
Variation
Lamb steaks cut from the chump end of the leg can also
be cooked in this way. Variations include the following
additions after the sauce has been strained:
l cooked pulses (e.g. haricot, butter or flageolet beans)
l neatly cut cooked vegetables (e.g. carrots, turnips,
swede, green beans or peas).
243
1 Take a casserole (or oven-proof dish) and place 5 Cover the pot with a lid or kitchen foil and place in
on the hob over a high heat. Pour in the olive oil the oven at 150 °C to braise for 2 hours 30 minutes,
and, when hot, add the lamb shanks, turning or up to 5 hours depending on the amount of lamb
occasionally until brown. being used. When the meat is cooked, the bone
2 Once browned, remove the lamb from the pot can easily be turned out of the meat (if you would
and tip in the leek, celery, carrot, onion and garlic like to present the bone, only give it a small turn to
cloves. Stir them all together and add the bay leaf, check if the lamb is ready, as it will be difficult to
thyme and rosemary. These ingredients will all add re-insert the bone once removed).
flavour to the dish but won’t be served at the end. 6 Pass the cooking stock through a fine sieve and
3 Once the vegetables are lightly browned, place reduce to the correct consistency (coats the back
the lamb back into the pot, allowing it to rest on of a spoon).
top of the vegetables. 7 Serve the lamb shanks with the cooking juices
4 Pour in the red wine and chicken stock and bring poured over the top.
to the boil. The lamb can be served with mashed potato and roast
vegetables.
244
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Variation
1,505 kJ 360 kcal 17.0 g 6.4 g 22.0 g 1.8 g 29.0 g 2.5 g
Try:
Using sunflower oil. l using leek in place of onion
l adding 200 g lambs’ kidneys
1 Trim the meat and cut into even pieces.
l quickly frying off the meat and sweating the onions
2 Place in a deep earthenware dish. Season with before putting in the pot
salt and pepper. l adding 100–200 g sliced mushrooms
l adding a small tin of baked beans or a layer of thickly
3 Lightly sauté the onions in the oil, if desired. Mix
sliced tomatoes before adding the potatoes
the onion and approximately three-quarters of the l using sausages in place of lamb.
potatoes together.
Chop the lamb into even-sized pieces Layer the potatoes over the lamb Pour over the stock
245
1 Trim the meat and cut into even pieces. 6 Add the stock and season.
2 Partly fry off the seasoned meat in the oil, then 7 Add the bouquet garni, bring to the boil, skim and
add the carrot, onion and garlic, and continue cover with a lid.
frying. 8 Simmer gently until cooked (preferably in the
3 Drain off the surplus fat, add the flour and mix. oven) for approximately 1–2 hours, until the lamb
4 Singe in the oven or brown on top of the stove for is tender.
a few minutes, or add previously browned flour. 9 When cooked, place the meat in a clean pan.
5 Add the tomato purée and stir with a wooden 10 Correct the sauce and pass it on to the meat.
spoon. 11 Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.
Fry the lamb, onions and carrots Mix in the flour Add the stock and bring to the boil
246
14 Irish stew
Ingredients for Irish stew Boil the meat Add the vegetables
247
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Place the mint, lemon juice, cumin and olive oil in
a food processor. Carefully blend the mint, lemon
Mint 25 g 62.5 g
juice, cumin and olive oil to give maximum flavour.
Lemons, juice of 2 5
2 Rub the mixture into the lamb and place in a
Cumin 2 tsp 5 tsp suitable roasting tray.
Olive oil 4 tbsp 10 tbsp 3 Roast the lamb in the normal way at 200 °C.
Leg of lamb 3.5 kg 2 × 3.5 kg Serve on a bed of boulangère potatoes or dauphinoise
potatoes and a suitable green vegetable, e.g. leaf
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
spinach with toasted pine nuts, or with a couscous
2,192 kJ 524 kcal 39.1 g 13.7 g 0.3 g 0.3 g 29.7 g 0.0 g salad.
Using a 225 g portion of lamb.
Ingredients for roast leg of lamb with mint, Place the leg of lamb in a roasting tray and Carving a leg of lamb
lemon and cumin rub with the mint and lemon mixture
248
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Bone the saddle of lamb and roast in the normal
way.
Saddle of lamb, boned
2 Bring the milk to the boil with the rosemary.
Milk 250 ml 625 ml
Remove from the heat, cover and leave to infuse
Rosemary 2 sprigs 5 sprigs for 10–15 minutes.
Potatoes, mashed 1.3 kg 3.25 kg 3 To make the rosemary mash, prepare a potato
purée using the milk infused with rosemary.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3,215 kJ 770 kcal 45.7 g 22.1 g 58.9 g 4.7 g 34.4 g 5.6 g 0.2 g
249
6 portions 1 Lightly brush the joint with oil and season it.
Best end of lamb, French trimmed 2 2 Roast the best end at 220 °C for 15–20 minutes.
Oil 3 Cover the fat surface of the meat with a mixture of
Seasoning
the fresh white breadcrumbs mixed with plenty of
chopped parsley, an egg and the melted butter or
Fresh white breadcrumbs 50 g
margarine.
Parsley, chopped 2 tbsp
4 Return to the oven for approximately 10 minutes
Egg 1 to complete the cooking, browning carefully.
Butter or margarine, melted 50 g
Professional tip
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Cook the lamb until it is pink. Carefully bind the
2530 kJ 612 kcal 51.3 g 24.2 g 6.6 g 0.5 g 31.2 g 0.2 g 0.2 g
breadcrumbs with herbs and beaten egg, so that they
Using butter. will hold together during cooking.
Variation
Try:
l mixed fresh herbs used in addition to parsley
l adding finely chopped garlic
l chopped fresh herbs, shallots and mustard.
250
Mirepoix 400 g 1 kg
5 Cook for 2 hours, basting every 20 minutes.
Bay leaves 1 3 6 Remove the lamb from the roasting tray and
return it to the oven on a rack. Place the potatoes
Red wine or dry cider 250 ml 625 ml
boulangère directly below the lamb. Cook for
Brown stock 300 ml 750 ml
½–1 hour, until the lamb is tender and sticky.
Redcurrant jelly 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
7 To finish the sauce, once the lamb is removed
from the roasting tray, reduce the cooking liquor
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,815 kJ 437 kcal 30.8 g 14.5 g 2.2 g 0.3 g 27.6 g 0.4 g 0.6 g
to the required consistency. Add the strained
redcurrant jelly, mix well, correct seasoning, then
strain.
251
252
20 Shepherd’s pie
Butter or margarine 25 g 60 g
Milk or egg wash Healthy eating tips
l Use an oil rich in unsaturates (olive or sunflower) to
Jus-lié or demi-glace 125–250 ml 300–600 ml
lightly oil the pan.
l Drain off any excess fat after the lamb has been fried.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l Try replacing some of the meat with baked beans or
1,744 kJ 415 kcal 25.3 g 9.1 g 22.1 g 2.5 g 26.3 g 1.6 g
lentils, and add tomatoes and/or mushrooms to the
Using sunflower oil, with hard margarine in topping. dish.
l When served with a large portion of green
1 Cook the onion in the oil without colouring.
vegetables, a healthy balance is created.
2 Add the cooked meat from which all fat and
gristle has been removed.
Variation
3 Season and add Worcester sauce (sufficient to
bind). Try:
l adding 100–200 g sliced mushrooms
4 Bring to the boil; simmer for 10–15 minutes. l adding a layer of thickly sliced tomatoes, then
5 Place in an earthenware or pie dish. sprinkling with rosemary
l mixing a tin of baked beans in with the meat
6 Prepare the potatoes – mix with the butter or
l sprinkling with grated cheese and browning under a
margarine, then mash and pipe, or arrange neatly salamander
on top. l varying the flavour of the mince by adding herbs or
7 Brush with the milk or egg wash. spices
l varying the potato topping by mixing in grated
8 Colour lightly under a salamander or in a hot cheese, chopped spring onions or herbs, or by using
oven. duchess potato mixture
9 Serve accompanied with a sauceboat of jus-lié. l serving lightly sprinkled with garam masala and with
grilled pitta bread.
253
Beef dishes
21 Grilled beef
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre 3 Turn halfway through the cooking and brush
706 kJ 168 kcal 6.0 g 2.7 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 28.6 g 0.0 g
occasionally with oil. Cook to the degree ordered
by the customer (see page 225).
1 Lightly season the steaks with salt and pepper,
and brush on both sides with oil. 4 Serve garnished with watercress and deep-fried
potatoes, and offer a suitable sauce such as
2 Place on hot, preheated and greased grill bars.
compound butter or sauce béarnaise.
254
Mould the mixture into shape Mark the top of each burger before grilling it
255
23 Tournedos
Note
Traditionally, tournedos are cooked underdone and
served on a round croûte of bread fried in butter.
Variation
Tournedos can be served with a variety of sauces, such
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium as chasseur, red wine or mushroom, and numerous
1,540 kJ 366 kcal 13.2 g 4.8 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 61.8 g 0.0 g 0.2 g garnishes (e.g. diced cubed potatoes, wild or cultivated
mushrooms). The photo shows tournedos Rossini –
Tournedos are cut from the middle of a fillet of beef and the tournedos are served with foie gras, Parma ham,
are usually 100–150g in weight. girolles, truffle and a Madeira jelly.
1 Lightly season and shallow-fry on both sides in a
sauté pan.
2 Serve with an appropriate garnish or sauce (see
Variation).
Using sunflower oil and 150 g raw steak per portion. Using
sunflower oil and 200 g raw steak per portion provides:
3584 kJ/853 kcal energy, 73.6 g fat, 26.2 g saturated fat, 6.0 g
carbohydrates, 3.0 g sugar, 34.4 g protein and 1.4 g fibre.
256
1 Heat the butter or oil in a sauté pan. Traditionally, two slices of beef bone marrow, poached
2 Lightly season the steaks on both sides with salt in stock for 2–3 minutes, would be placed on each
and pepper. steak.
3 Fry the steaks quickly on both sides, keeping
Professional tip
them underdone.
Cook the steaks to order (and make the sauce by
4 Dress the steaks on a serving dish. deglazing the pan and reducing), not in advance.
5 Pour off the fat from the pan.
6 Deglaze with the red wine. Reduce by half and
strain. Healthy eating tips
l Use little or no salt to season the steaks.
7 Add the red wine sauce, reboil and correct the l Fry in a small amount of an unsaturated oil and drain
seasoning. off all excess fat after frying.
l Serve with plenty of boiled new potatoes or a jacket
8 Coat the steaks with the sauce.
potato and a selection of vegetables.
9 Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.
25 Beef stroganoff
257
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Cook the onion in the fat without colour, then
allow to cool.
Onion, finely chopped 25 g 60 g
2 Add to the rest of the ingredients and mix in well.
Butter or oil 10 g 25 g
3 Divide into even pieces and, using a little flour,
Lean minced beef 200 g 500 g
make into balls, flatten and shape round.
Small egg 1 2–3
4 Shallow-fry in hot fat on both sides, reducing the
Breadcrumbs 100 g 250 g heat after the first few minutes, making certain
Cold water or milk 2 tbsp 60 ml they are cooked right through.
(approximately) (approximately)
5 Serve with a light sauce, such as piquant sauce
(see page 91).
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
681 kJ 162 kcal 6.7 g 1.9 g 12.7 g 1.0 g 13.8 g 1.0 g The ‘steaks’ may be garnished with French-fried onions
and sometimes with a fried egg.
258
27 Carbonnade of beef
1 Cut the meat into thin slices. 5 Add the beer, sugar and tomato purée and
2 Season with salt and pepper and pass through sufficient brown stock to cover the meat.
the flour. 6 Cover with a tight-fitting lid and simmer gently in
3 Quickly colour on both sides in hot fat and place a moderate oven at 150–200 °C until the meat is
in a casserole. tender (approximately 2 hours).
4 Fry the onions to a light brown colour. Add to the 7 Skim, correct the seasoning and serve.
meat.
Slice the meat thinly Pass each slice through the flour Pour the liquid over the browned meat and
onions
259
28 Beef bourguignon
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,838 kJ 681 kcal 33.3 g 9.1 g 20.1 g 7.2 g 44.9 g 8.0 g 0.9 g
260
Brown the meat Pour in stock to cover the meat and vegetables
261
Trim the joint neatly Tie the joint securely before braising it Place the joint in the pan on a layer of
vegetables
262
1 Soak the meat in cold water for 1–2 hours to Healthy eating tips
Adding carrots, onions, boiled potatoes and a green
remove excess brine. vegetable will give a healthy balance.
2 Place in a saucepan and cover with cold water,
bring to the boil, skim and simmer for 45 minutes.
Variation
3 Add the whole prepared onions and carrots and
simmer until cooked. Herbs can be added to the dumplings.
4 Divide the suet paste into even pieces and lightly Boiled brisket and tongue can be served with the
mould into balls (dumplings). silverside.
5 Add the dumplings and simmer for a further French-style boiled beef is prepared using unsalted thin
flank or brisket with onions, carrots, leeks, celery, cabbage
15–20 minutes.
and a bouquet garni, all cooked and served together,
6 Serve by carving the meat across the grain, accompanied with pickled gherkins and coarse salt.
garnish with carrots, onions and dumplings, and
moisten with a little of the cooking liquor.
263
31 Steak pudding
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 6 Cook in a steamer for at least 3½ hours for a four-
portion pudding, or approximately 1½ hours for
Suet paste (see page 464) 200 g 500 g
individual puddings.
Prepared stewing beef (chuck 400 g 1 kg
steak) 7 Serve with the paper and cloth removed, clean
Worcester sauce 1 tsp 2½ tsp the basin, place on a round flat dish and fasten a
napkin round the basin.
Parsley, chopped 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Extra gravy should be served separately. If the gravy in
Salt, pepper
the pudding is to be thickened, the meat can be lightly
Onion, chopped (optional) 50–100 g 125–250 g floured.
Water 125 ml 300 ml
approximately approximately. Healthy eating tips
l Use little or no salt as the Worcester sauce
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre contains salt.
1,369 kJ 326 kcal 17.3 g 7.8 g 20.6 g 1.0 g 23.0 g 1.1 g l Trim off as much fat as possible from the raw
stewing beef.
1 Line a greased ½ litre basin with three-quarters of l Serve with plenty of potatoes and vegetables.
the suet paste and retain one-quarter for the top.
2 Mix all the other ingredients, except the water, Variation
together.
Try:
3 Place in the basin with the water to within 1 cm of l adding 50–100 g ox or sheep’s kidneys cut in pieces
the top. with skin and gristle removed
l adding 50–100 g sliced or quartered mushrooms
4 Moisten the edge of the suet paste, cover with the
l making the steak pudding with a cooked filling; in
top and seal firmly. which case, simmer the meat until cooked in brown
5 Cover with greased greaseproof paper and also, if stock with onions, parsley, Worcester sauce and
possible, foil or a pudding cloth tied securely with seasoning; cool quickly and proceed as above,
string. steaming for 1–1½ hours.
264
Line the basin with suet paste Fill the basin, then cover the top with paste
Make a foil cover for the basin, with a fold to allow it to expand Tie the cover over the basin securely
265
32 Goulash
266
33 Cornish pasties
Ingredients for Cornish pasties Place the filling on to the pastry Fold the pastry over and seal the edge
267
34 Steak pie
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Cut the meat into 2 cm strips then cut into
squares.
Prepared stewing beef (chuck 400 g 1 kg
steak) 2 Heat the oil in a frying pan until smoking, add the
Oil or dripping 50 ml 125 ml meat and quickly brown on all sides.
Onion, chopped (optional) 100 g 250 g 3 Drain the meat off in a colander.
Worcester sauce, few drops 4 Lightly fry the onion.
Parsley, chopped 1 tsp 2½ tsp 5 Place the meat, onion, Worcester sauce, parsley
Water, stock, red wine or dark beer 125 ml 300 ml and the liquid in a pan, season lightly with salt and
Salt, pepper
pepper.
Cornflour 10 g 25 g 6 Bring to the boil, skim, then allow to simmer
gently until the meat is tender.
Short, puff or rough puff paste (see 100 g 250 g
pages 446, 465 and 467) 7 Dilute the cornflour with a little water, stir into the
simmering mixture, reboil and correct seasoning.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
8 Place the mixture into a pie dish and allow to cool.
1,442 kJ 346 kcal 22.2 g 2.9 g 13.6 g 1.8 g 24.3 g 0.4 g
Using puff pastry (McCance data). 9 Cover with the paste, egg wash and bake at
200 °C for approximately 30–45 minutes.
268
Dice the steak evenly Coat the meat in cornflour before frying it
Cover the top with paste and trim off the excess Press gently to ensure a seal between the paste and the dish
269
Ingredient 10 portions
Wing rib of beef 1 × 2 kg
Beef dripping 25 g
Yorkshire puddings (see recipe 36), prepared English
mustard or horseradish sauce, to serve
Gravy
Carrots (for the mirepoix) 50 g
Onion (for the mirepoix) 50 g
Red wine 200 ml
Plain flour 30 g
Beef stock 300 ml
270
36 Yorkshire pudding
Professional tip
The oven, and the oil, must be very hot before the
mixture is placed into the pudding tray; if they are not
hot enough, the puddings will not rise.
271
272
Veal dishes
38 Escalope of veal
273
Egg, beaten 1 2½
Breadcrumbs 50 g 125 g Healthy eating tips
l No added salt is needed as there is plenty in the ham
Oil 50 g 125 g
and cheese.
Butter (optional) 100 g 250 g l This is a high-fat dish so serve with plenty of starchy
Beurre noisette (optional) 50 g 125 g carbohydrates and vegetables to ‘dilute’ the fat.
Jus-lié 60 ml 150 ml
Bat out the escalopes Layer the veal, ham and cheese Coat the escalope with breadcrumbs and
mark on one side
274
Layer the veal, ham and cheese, then roll them up Transfer the fried escalopes to an ovenproof dish and sprinkle with
cheese
275
41 Fricassée of veal
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 5 Gradually add boiling stock just to cover the meat,
stir until smooth.
Boned stewing veal (shoulder or 400 g 1 kg
breast) 6 Season, bring to the boil, skim.
Butter or oil 35 g 90 g 7 Cover and simmer gently on the stove until tender
Flour 25 g 60 g (approximately 1½–2 hours).
White veal stock 500 ml 1.25 litres 8 Pick out the meat into a clean pan. Correct the
Salt, pepper sauce.
Egg yolk 1 2–3 9 Pass on to the meat and reboil. Mix the yolk and
Cream (dairy or vegetable) 2–3 tbsp 5–7 tbsp
cream in a basin.
Squeeze of lemon juice 10 Add a little of the boiling sauce, mix in and
pour back on to the meat, shaking the pan until
Parsley, chopped, to finish
thoroughly mixed; do not reboil. Add the lemon
juice.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
992 kJ 236 kcal 13.6 g 7.5 g 5.3 g 0.4 g 23.3 g 0.2 g 11 Serve, finished with chopped parsley and heart-
Using butter. shaped croutons fried in butter or oil.
1 Trim the meat. Cut into even 25 g pieces.
Professional tip
2 Sweat the meat gently in the butter without colour
After adding the flour, cook carefully so that it does not
in a sauté pan. colour.
3 Mix in the flour and cook out without colour.
Add the liaison of yolks and cream carefully. Do not
4 Allow to cool. allow the sauce to boil after this, because it will curdle.
276
Add the stock and continue to cook Add the liaison of egg yolk and cream
277
278
Pork dishes
Using lean meat only, and double cream. 9 Reboil, correct the seasoning and consistency,
and pass through a fine strainer on to the meat.
Variation 10 Garnish with slices of caramelised apple.
Special care must be taken not to overheat if using
Calvados can be replaced with twice the amount of
cider and reduced by three-quarters as an alternative. yoghurt, otherwise the sauce will curdle.
279
1 Cut the boned loin of pork into 2 cm pieces. 7 Stir in the sweet and sour sauce, bring to the boil.
2 Marinate the pork for 30 minutes in the sugar, 8 Add the pineapple cut into small chunks,
sherry and soy sauce. thicken slightly with diluted cornflour. Simmer for
3 Pass the pork through cornflour, pressing the 2 minutes.
cornflour in well. 9 Deep-fry the pork again until crisp. Drain, mix into
4 Deep-fry the pork pieces in oil at 190 °C until the vegetables and sauce or serve separately.
golden brown, then drain. Add the tablespoons of 10 Serve garnished with rings of spring onions or
oil to a sauté pan. button onions.
5 Add the garlic and ginger, and fry until fragrant.
Professional tip
6 Add the onion, pepper and chillies, sauté for a few
It is important to allow the pork enough time to marinate.
minutes.
280
1 Gently fry the shallots, garlic and sliced 3 Add the soy sauce, honey and wine, and reduce
mushrooms in a little oil in a frying pan or wok. for 2–3 minutes.
2 Add the pork cut into strips, stir well, increase 4 Correct the seasoning and serve.
the heat, season and add the Chinese five-spice
powder; cook for 3–4 minutes then reduce the Healthy eating tips
heat. l No extra salt is needed, as soy sauce is added.
l Adding more vegetables and a large portion of rice or
noodles can reduce the overall fat content.
281
Using salt in this way is a process that can extract the Sauerkraut – modern
natural juices of many ingredients by breaking down
the cell structure. In meat, this ‘tightening action’ interpretation
affects the myosin protein, while in vegetables it breaks
down the cell wall structure – commonly done when Ingredient 8–10 portions
282
into rough pieces or shred it with your fingers. Using the traditional method and a pork leg joint.
283
47 Boiled bacon
284
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Place the pork on a rack in a roasting tray; season
and oil. Roast in the oven for 10 minutes at 200 °C
Pork belly 1.2 kg 3 kg
and then for 3–3½ hours at 140 °C.
Salt, pepper
2 Peel the shallots, fry gently in half the butter until
Olive oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
caramelised. Keep warm.
Shallots 20 50
3 Purée the potatoes.
Butter 70 g 175 g
4 Melt the remaining butter in a pan and sauté the
Potatoes, peeled and chopped 1 kg 2.5 kg spring onions until soft. Add the spring onion and
Spring onions, chopped 8 20 the butter to the potato purée.
Double cream 4 tbsp 10 tbsp 5 Add the cream and mix well.
6 Serve the pork with the caramelised shallots and
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,680 kJ 645 kcal 50.5 g 18.3 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 47.8 g 0.0 g 0.2 g
potato.
7 Serve with a reduced brown stock flavoured
with cider; alternatively, a red wine sauce may be
served.
285
4 portions 10 portions
Onion, chopped 50 g 125 g
Pork dripping 50 g 125 g
White breadcrumbs 100 g 250 g
Chopped parsley, pinch
Powdered sage, good pinch
Salt, pepper
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
865 kJ 204 kcal 12.9 g 6.3 g 20.6 g 1.9 g 2.7 g 0.2 g 0.2 g Professional tip
Modern practice is to refer to this as a dressing if served
1 Cook the onion in the dripping without colour. separately to the meat, but as stuffing if used to stuff
2 Combine all the ingredients. Dressing is usually the meat.
served separately.
286
287
Ingredient To make 2.5 1 Boil all the ingredients together for 10 minutes,
litres of brine skimming frequently.
Cold water 2.5 litres 2 Strain into a china, wooden or earthenware
Saltpetre 15 g container.
Salt 850 g 3 When the brine is cold, add the meat.
Bay leaf 1 4 Immerse the meat for up to 10 days under
Juniper berries 6 refrigeration.
Brown sugar 50 g
Peppercorns 6
Ingredients for brine Strain the liquid Immerse the meat in the brine
288
Offal dishes
289
1 Prepare the kidneys: cut in half, remove the white 4 Add the Worcester sauce and season.
ducts then cut into quarters. 5 Add the cream and mustard. Simmer and reduce
2 Heat the oil in the pan. Season the kidneys and to a sauce consistency.
place in the pan. When cooked, remove. 6 Add the kidneys and warm through.
3 Add the sherry to the pan and bring to the boil, 7 Serve on a bed of pilaff rice (see page 125),
then add the vinegar and redcurrant jelly. garnished with chopped herbs.
290
291
1 Cut the oxtail into sections. Remove the excess fat. 7 Bring to the boil, then skim.
2 Fry on all sides in hot fat. 8 Cover with a lid and simmer in the oven until
3 Place in a braising pan or casserole. tender (approximately 3 hours).
4 Roughly cut the onion and carrot. Fry them, then 9 Remove the meat from the sauce, place in a clean
add them to the braising pan. pan.
5 Mix in the flour. 10 Correct the sauce, pass on to the meat and
reboil.
6 Add tomato purée, brown stock, bouquet garni
and garlic, and season lightly. 11 Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.
292
Note Variation
This is usually garnished with glazed turned or neatly cut Haricot oxtail can be made using the same recipe with
carrots and turnips, button onions, peas and diamonds the addition of 100 g (250 g for 10 portions) cooked
of beans. Oxtail must be very well cooked so that the haricot beans, added approximately ½ hour before the
meat comes away from the bone easily. oxtail has completed cooking.
293
15
Casserole chicken dishes
Chicken in red wine (coq au vin) 322
Poultry
The term ‘poultry’ is applied to all domestic fowl bred for
Baked or tandoori chicken dishes
food, and includes turkeys, geese, ducks, fowls and pigeons.
16 Chicken pie 323
17 Tandoori chicken 324 The flesh of poultry is more easily digested than that of
butchers’ meat. It contains protein and is therefore useful
Roast chicken dishes
for building and repairing body tissues and providing heat
18 Roast chicken with dressing (poulet rôti à 325
l’anglaise) and energy. The fat content is low and it contains a high
Turkey dishes
percentage of unsaturated fatty acids.
19 Turkey escalopes 326 Originally, fowl were classified according to size and feeding
20 Roast turkey 326 by specific names as shown in Table 11.1.
295
There is approximately 15 to 20 per cent bone in poultry. l Unhygienic equipment, utensils and preparation areas
increase the risk of cross-contamination and danger
Storing poultry l
to health.
Store uncooked poultry and game on trays to prevent
Chilled birds should be stored between 1 °C and 4 °C. dripping, in a separate refrigerator, at a temperature
Oven-ready birds are eviscerated (gutted and cleaned) and of 1–4 °C, preferably at the lower temperature. When
should be stored in a refrigerator. Frozen birds must be kept separate refrigerators are not available then store in the
in a deep freeze until required, but must be completely bottom of the refrigerator.
thawed, preferably in a refrigerator, before being cooked. l Wash all work surfaces with a bactericidal detergent
This procedure is essential to reduce the risk of food to kill bacteria. This is particularly important when
poisoning: chickens are potential carriers of salmonella and handling poultry and game.
campylobacter, and if birds are cooked from the frozen
state there is a risk that the centre of the bird will not reach
the required degree of heat to kill off these pathogens. Cooking, holding and serving
When using frozen poultry, check that: poultry
l the packaging is undamaged Refer to Chapter 10 for the principles related to cooking
l there are no signs of freezer burn, which is indicated by meat. All poultry must be cooked until it reaches a core
white patches on the skin temperature of 75 °C, even if this is not stated in the recipe.
l frozen birds are defrosted by moving them from the When holding cooked poultry and game dishes this should
freezer to a refrigerator. be above 65 °C.
296
Quality points
l Plump breast, pliable breast bone and firm flesh. l Bresse chickens are specially bred in France and are
l Skin white and unbroken. Broiler chickens have a faint highly regarded for their quality and flavour.
bluish tint. l Old birds have coarse scales, large spurs on the legs and
l Corn-fed are yellow. Free-range have more colour, a long hairs on the skin.
firmer texture and more flavour.
Video: buying
Trussing poultry http://
bit.ly/1CIMF1V
1 Place the bird on its back. 2 To facilitate carving, remove the 3 Insert a trussing needle through
wishbone. the bird, midway between the
leg joints.
4 Thread the needle through the 5 The needle comes out by the wing. 6 Turn over the chicken.
tendon and breast. 7 Run the needle under the skin
through the wing, crown and
other wing.
8 The string ends at the same place 9 The trussed bird will hold its shape
it started. Tie the ends of the string during roasting.
securely.
297
Cutting chicken
Chicken is cut into pieces as shown in the diagram. The leg
5 5
is cut into two parts: drumstick and thigh.
1 Wing 2 Breast 3 Thigh
4 Drumstick 5 Winglet 6 Carcass 6
4 4
6
3 3
Cuts of chicken
1 Remove the winglets. 2 Remove the legs from the carcass, 3 Cut off the feet.
cutting around the oyster.
4 Separate the thigh from the 5 Trim the drumstick neatly. 6 Remove each breast from the
drumstick. carcass.
298
7 Separate the wing from the breast 8 Cut into the cavity, splitting the 9 Cut each breast in half.
and trim it. carcass (this may be used for stock).
Video: cutting
chicken for
sauté
http://bit.ly/
1Fy3JaY
Preparing a spatchcock chicken l Cut through the backbone and open out.
To prepare chicken for grilling: l Remove back and rib bones.
l Remove the wishbone. The chicken may then be grilled whole (spatchcock, see
l Cut off the claws at the first joint. recipe 2) or cut into pieces.
l Place the bird on its back.
l Insert a large knife through the neck end and out of
the vent.
Insert the knife through the neck end Remove the backbone Spatchcock chicken ready for cooking
299
1 Cut off both the legs. 2 Scrape the wing bone bare, 3 Cut the breasts close to the
adjoining the breasts. Cut off the breastbone and follow the bone
winglets near the joints, leaving down to the wing joint.
1.5 to 2 cm of bare bone attached.
Then remove the wishbone.
4 Cut through the joint. Pull the 5 To finish, lift the fillets from the
suprêmes off, using the knife to suprêmes and remove the sinew
assist. from each. Make an incision
lengthways, along the thick side of
the suprêmes; open and place the
fillets inside. Close, lightly flatten
with a bat moistened with water,
and trim if necessary.
300
Cut the leg open around the bone. Start to separate the knuckle from the meat. Lift the knuckle away (tunnel boning).
(Scrape the bone.)
Cut the bone below the knuckle. Fill the cavity of the thigh and drumstick Close up in a neat shape and secure
with stuffing. with string.
Ballotines of chicken may be cooked and served using any When cooking a large turkey, the legs are often removed,
of the recipes for chicken sauté presented in this chapter. boned, rolled and tied before roasting. The whole breast
still on the bone is known as a crown. Suprêmes can be
Cutting cooked chicken removed as for other poultry and then used in similar ways,
To cut up a cooked chicken (roasted or boiled): slicing across the breast to form an escalope which would
l Remove the legs and cut in two (drumstick and thigh). normally be batted out with a cutlet bat to gain an even
l Remove the wings. slice that can then be filled, coated and cooked.
l Separate the breast from the carcass and divide in two. Stuffings may be rolled in foil, steamed or baked and thickly
l Serve a drumstick with a wing and the thigh with the sliced. If a firmer stuffing is required, mix in one or two raw
breast. eggs before cooking.
301
1 Remove the legs; cooking them 2 Remove the leg bones. 3 Stuff and roll each leg if required.
separately will reduce the cooking
time and enable the legs and
breast to cook more evenly.
4 Tie the stuffed legs securely. 5 Cut the remainder of the bird in half, 6 The two halves, ready for roasting,
again to reduce the cooking time. with one leg left whole and the
other boned, stuffed and rolled.
1 Cut off the legs. 2 Sever the leg at the joint with a 3 Cut off the front of the bird, leaving
sharp tap of the knife. the crown.
302
1 Cut around the exposed end of the bone. 2 Scrape and cut, gently parting the flesh from the bone.
3 Push the meat down as it is freed, and lift the bone out. 4 The de-boned leg.
Choosing and buying feathers (the first large feather of the wing), while in older
birds these feathers are more rounded. There are many
The most important factor when buying game is to know
other distinctive guidelines you can use when selecting
its ‘life age’ and its ‘hanging age’, since this will determine
game, however the grading of game is a specialised subject
the method of cookery to be used. Indications of age are by
and best left to the experts.
no means infallible, but there are some general guidelines
when buying young birds – soft-textured feet, pliable The seasons for game are shown in Table 11.2.
breastbones – and young partridges have pointed flight
Hare
Rabbit
Venison
Feathered
Goose (wild)
Goose (farmed)
Grouse
12th
Mallard
Moorhen
Partridge (English
grey leg)
Partridge (French
red leg)
Pheasant
Pigeon (farmed)
Pigeon (English
wood)
Quail
Snipe
12th
Teal
Woodcock
Key:
Available
At best
304
Storing and hanging game to make tough meat more tender; it may also enhance the
taste and it speeds up the action of the metabolic enzyme
Game bought from a game dealer will probably have
that breaks game down.
been hung correctly. If, however, you require your game
(or any other meat that benefits from hanging) to be hung As game birds are deficient in fat, a thin slice of fat bacon
specifically for you, speak to your butcher or game dealer. (bard) should be tied over the breast during cooking to
The general rules are to hang in a cool, dry, airy place, prevent it from drying out; this is also placed on the breast
protected from flies to prevent maggot infestation. You when serving.
should hang the carcass until you detect the first whiff of The preparation techniques for poultry, such as stuffing
tainting. In Britain, birds are usually hung from their heads, ballotines, also apply to game birds.
feet down, and rabbits and other game are hung with their
heads down. Roast game birds are served with gravy; bread sauce
and browned breadcrumbs (toasted or fried) are served
However, there is no real need to hang game, due to the separately.
metabolic enzymes present so, if you object to the strong
flavour that hanging promotes, a short hanging period (or Roast pheasant, partridge or grouse may also be served in
no hanging at all) may be preferable. the traditional manner: on a croûte of fried bread, garnished
with thick round pieces of toasted French bread spread
Current legislation does not allow the hanging or plucking with game farce, game chips and picked watercress.
of game in a normal kitchen environment.
Game should be well wrapped and careful consideration Game birds
given to its age; strict labelling is essential because, when
in prime condition, the meat may have a slightly tainted Pheasant
smell, which may be difficult to discern from the smell that One of the most common game birds, pheasants are found
denotes the meat is past its best. in the hedgerows and open farmland across the country.
Young birds are reared and then released. An average
weight of 1.5 to 2 kg will serve two; they are often served
Drawing and washing roasted although chefs sometimes remove the legs and
This is the process that is carried out when the bird is sold cook separately.
with all its entrails still inside. To remove, make a small lateral
incision into the backside of the bird, then insert your Partridge
forefinger and index finger, and roll them around the inner
Two varieties are used in the UK, with the red-legged being
cavity of the bird. This loosens the membrane that holds in
slightly larger than the grey-legged. They have an average
the innards. When loose, remove from the wider backside
weight of around 500 g per bird and are cooked as for
and discard. Ensure that all the innards are removed, that
pheasant.
the cavity is empty, then wash and dry well.
Check for any shot that could be present and remove before Grouse
completing preparations ready for cooking. Red grouse are found in the hills and mountains feeding
on heather. The grouse season starts on the 12th of August
Cooking game each year, which is considered to be the start of the hunting
season for game. With an average weight of around 750 g
Game meat responds best to roasting. Young game birds
per bird, they are served roasted or pot roasted with
in particular should be trussed and roasted; it is traditional
appropriate garnishes and sauce.
to leave them unstuffed. Due to the low fat content of
game, especially wild non-domestic varieties, added fat in
the form of sliced streaky bacon, lardons and the like can Pigeon
be wrapped around the bird to help baste it while cooking As pigeons do not have gall bladders it is not necessary
and therefore retain moisture. Older, tougher game or to remove their livers when they are drawn and cleaned.
high-worked muscle groups, such as a haunch of venison, Tender young pigeons (less than 12 months old) can be
should be casseroled/stewed or made into pies or terrines. roasted, pot roasted or split open and grilled and served
Marinating in oil, vinegar or wine with herbs and spices helps (for example, with a Robert, charcutière or devilled sauce).
305
Young pigeons can be cut in half, flattened slightly, Preparation of wild rabbit
seasoned, shallow-fried in butter, and cooked and finished 1 Carefully remove the fur.
as for sautés of chicken (for example, chasseur, bordelaise). 2 Cut an incision along the belly.
3 Remove the intestines.
Quail 4 Clean out the forequarter, removing all traces of blood.
Only plump birds with firm white fat should be selected.
When prepared the entrails are drawn, but the heart and
liver are retained inside the birds. They may be roasted, spit
Venison
roasted, cooked ‘en casserole’ or poached in a rich, well- Venison is the name given to the meat of deer, with the
flavoured chicken or veal stock (or a combination of both). main types available being red deer, fallow deer and roe
Quails may also be boned out from the back and stuffed deer. Of these three, the meat of the roebuck is considered
with a forcemeat. to have the best and most delicate eating quality. The
prime cuts are the legs, loins and best ends. The shoulder
of young animals can be boned, rolled and roasted but, if in
Hare and rabbits any doubt as to its tenderness, it should be cut up and used
The rabbit is distinguished from the hare by its shorter ears, for stewed or braised dishes.
feet and body. The ears of good-quality hare and rabbits
Venison is available from most catering butchers. The
should tear easily. With old hare, the lip is more pronounced
cuts and joints of venison are shown in the diagram and
than in young animals.
Table 11.3.
K
J
I F E
L D
N H G
B A
M
C
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The nutritional value of venison is compared with other After slaughter, carcasses should be hung well in a cool
meats in Table 11.4. It is a good meat to use when planning place for several days and, when cut into joints, are usually
healthier menus as it contains very little fat. The fat in marinated before being cooked. Joints of venison should
venison is mainly polyunsaturated and therefore lower in be well fleshed and a dark brownish-red colour.
cholesterol.
Venison is also a good source of protein, as 100 g of venison Cooking and serving cutlets
supplies 68.5 per cent of the daily value for protein for only Venison cutlets (cut from the best end) and chops (cut from
179 calories and 1.4 g of saturated fat. It is also a source of the loin) are usually well trimmed and cooked by shallow-
iron, vitamin B12 and other B vitamins. frying, provided that the meat is tender. If in doubt, they
should be braised.
Quality points After they are cooked they should be removed from the
l The flesh should be dark red in colour. pan, the fat poured off and the pan deglazed with stock,
l The flesh should be dry and firm. red wine, brandy, Madeira or sherry, which is then added to
l The carcass should have a good amount of flesh and a the accompanying sauce.
close grain texture.
A spicy, peppery sauce is usually offered, which can be varied
l The flesh should be lean, with little fat.
by the addition of extra ingredients (for example, cream,
l There should be no unpleasant smell.
307
Cooking and serving haunch of Boar’s head is prepared by boning the head and stuffing
it with a forcemeat to which strips of ox tongue, foie gras,
venison truffles and pistachio nuts can be added. The head is tied
The haunch may be roasted or braised. It is popular served securely in a cloth and simmered gently. When cooled it
hot or cold. is completely coated and the tusks are re-inserted. Boar’s
head is a traditional Christmas cold buffet dish served with
a spicy sauce (e.g. Cumberland).
Test yourself
1 List five quality points for a good quality chicken.
2 At what temperature should prepared poultry be chilled for storage?
3 State three considerations when roasting a chicken.
4 What is the safe internal temperature required for cooked poultry?
5 Explain why shallow frying is an appropriate cooking method for turkey
escalopes.
6 Briefly describe how to truss a turkey.
7 State why you would baste a whole duck when roasting.
8 Describe how to store game birds.
9 List three quality points you should look for when buying venison.
10 Describe how you can keep game birds moist during cooking.
308
Chicken dishes
309
1 Cut horizontally from below the point of the breast 7 Place on preheated grill bars or on a flat tray
over the top of the legs down to the wing joints, under a salamander.
without removing the breasts. Fold back the breasts. 8 Brush frequently with melted fat or oil during
2 Snap and reverse the backbone into the opposite cooking and allow approximately 15–20 minutes
direction so that the point of the breast now on each side.
extends forward. 9 Test if cooked by piercing the drumstick with a
3 Flatten slightly. Remove any small bones. needle or skewer – there should be no sign of
4 Skewer the wings and legs in position. blood.
Serve garnished with picked watercress and offer
5 Season with salt and mill pepper.
a suitable sauce separately (e.g. devilled sauce or a
6 Brush with oil or melted butter.
compound butter).
Using butter.
310
1 Place the butter or oil in a sauté pan on a fairly hot 6 Add the washed, sliced mushrooms and cover
stove. with a lid. Cook gently for 3–4 minutes, without
2 Season the pieces of chicken and place in the colour. Drain off the fat.
pan in the following order: drumsticks, thighs, 7 Add the white wine and reduce by half. Add the
wings and breast. jus-lié, demi-glace or reduced stock.
3 Cook to a golden brown on both sides. 8 Add the tomatoes. Simmer for 5 minutes.
4 Cover with a lid and cook on the stove or in the 9 Correct the seasoning and pour over the chicken.
oven until tender. Dress neatly in a suitable dish. 10 Sprinkle with chopped parsley and tarragon and
5 Add the shallots to the sauté pan, rubbing them serve.
into the pan sediment to extract the flavour. Ballotines of chicken chasseur can be prepared as
Cover with a lid and cook on a gentle heat for above or lightly braised (as shown).
1–2 minutes.
Place the chicken into the hot pan Cook the shallots in the pan that was used for the chicken – they will
pick up the sediment and flavour
311
312
5 Paella
Using chicken.
313
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre 1 Gently fry the chicken in the fat until golden brown.
1,575 kJ 378 kcal 21.9 g 9.5 g 4.4 g 3.5 g 41.3 g 1.9 g
2 Remove the chicken; fry the onion and garlic until
Estimated edible meat used; butter used.
lightly browned. Add the ginger, chilli and spices,
and sweat for 3 minutes.
Healthy eating tips
l Skin the chicken and fry in a small amount of
3 Stir in the spinach, add the tomatoes and season.
unsaturated oil. Add the chicken pieces.
l Skim excess fat from the finished dish. 4 Add the chicken stock and bring to the boil.
l Serve with plenty of rice, dhal, chapatis and a
vegetable dish. 5 Cover with a lid and cook in a moderate oven
(180 °C) for 30 minutes or until the chicken is tender.
Stir occasionally, adding more stock if necessary.
6 Serve in a suitable dish with rice, chapatis and
dhal.
314
7 Deep-fried chicken
8 Chicken Kiev
315
Carefully make an incision in the top of the Stuff with softened butter Dip the chicken in egg and flour and then
suprême coat with breadcrumbs
316
1 Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Heat the 5 Stir in the tomato purée and then gradually add the
olive oil in a lidded sauté pan or shallow casserole red wine and chicken stock, stirring until the liquid
and pan-fry the chicken over a medium-high heat, has fully mixed into the flour and purée paste.
turning, until golden on both sides. 6 Return the chicken to the pan and bring to a
2 Remove from the pan and keep to one side. You simmer. Place a lid on the pan and continue to
will need about 2 tablespoons of fat left in the pan cook, allowing the sauce to just simmer for about
to cook the onions so, if the legs have released a 1 hour, or until the meat is completely tender.
lot of fat, drain off the excess. 7 To finish, remove the chicken legs, place on to
3 Add the onions and fry for 2–3 minutes before a plate or tray and keep in a warm place, e.g.
adding the bacon, garlic and mushrooms to the the side of the stove. Skim the sauce of any
pan. Continue to stir until they have a little colour further excess fat and adjust the consistency as
and the mushrooms are beginning to soften. necessary.
4 Sprinkle over the flour and stir until the flour has 8 Adjust the seasoning before adding the tomatoes.
lightly browned. 9 Place the chicken legs back into the sauce and
scatter over the chopped herbs before serving.
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1 Remove the thighbone and the knuckle joint from 7 Heat a sauté pan with oil and butter, add the
the chicken legs. chicken legs and brown the skin. Slice and serve
2 Prepare the forcemeat by mixing all of the herbs with the sauce.
with the minced chicken. Season the mix and For the red wine jus:
divide it evenly between the chicken legs. 1 Caramelise the shallots in the butter until golden,
3 Season the legs then stuff them with the adding the garlic at the end.
forcemeat. Roll the leg into a neat cylinder and 2 Strain off any excess butter, deglaze the pan with
either tie the leg in place or roll tightly in cling film the red wine and reduce by half.
and tie off the ends. 3 Add the chicken stock and veal jus and reduce to
4 Steam the legs for 30–45 minutes or until the core a sauce consistency, adding the aromats for the
temperature reaches 84 °C. last 5 minutes.
5 Allow the chicken legs to rest so they will stay 4 Pass through a muslin cloth and serve over the
in shape. sliced ballotines.
6 When the chicken legs have rested and cooled
slightly, remove the string or cling film and dry them.
11 Fricassée of chicken
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Professional tip
2,699 kJ 643 kcal 51.3 g 23.3 g 7.4 g 0.6 g 38.2 g 0.4 g
Sauté the chicken lightly. Add the liaison of yolks and
Using butter. cream carefully. Do not allow the sauce to come back
to the boil once the liaison has been added, or it will
curdle.
318
12 Chicken à la king
319
Slice the mushrooms and dice the red pepper Neatly slice the cooked chicken Add the velouté during cooking
320
Butter 50 g 125 g Confit oil is half olive oil and half vegetable oil, infused
with herbs, garlic, whole spices or any specific flavour
Chives, chopped 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
you wish to impart into the oil. The foodstuff picks up the
Seasoning flavour through slow cooking in the oil.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3,622 kJ 875 kcal 75.9 g 3.6 g 43.3 g 3.6 g 43.3 g 2.6 g 0.8 g Professional tip
This dish utilises the less popular chicken legs; it is not
only very cost-effective but has great depth of flavour
due to the work the muscle group has done.
321
After cooking in oil, squeeze the thigh to Remove from the oven when the chicken is Add butter to the stock to form an emulsion
determine whether it is done golden brown
Sauté the other ingredients before the chicken Sauté the chicken pieces and onion in the Add a beurre manié
same pan
16 Chicken pie
323
Wrap the chicken pieces in bacon Pour stock over the pie filling Egg wash the edge of the pie dish and lay the
pastry over
Press down gently at the edges to form a seal Trim off the excess and then crimp the edges
with your fingers
17 Tandoori chicken
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1 Cut slits bone-deep in the chicken pieces. 5 Preheat the oven to the maximum temperature.
2 Sprinkle the salt and lemon juice on both sides of 6 Shake off as much of the marinade as possible
the pieces, lightly rubbing into the slits; leave for from the chicken pieces; place on skewers and
20 minutes. bake for 15–20 minutes or until cooked.
3 Combine the remaining ingredients in a blender or Serve with red onion rings and lime or lemon wedges.
food processor.
4 Brush the chicken pieces on both sides, ensuring
the marinade goes into the slits. Cover and
refrigerate for 6–24 hours.
325
Turkey dishes
19 Turkey escalopes
Professional tip
The oil or fat must be hot enough before the escalopes
are placed in the pan. If it is too cool, the breadcrumbs
will absorb the fat and the dish will be greasy.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,712 kJ 414 kcal 37.0 g 14.0 g 5.9 g 0.2 g 14.8 g 0.3 g 0.1 g
20 Roast turkey
Professional tip
The secret to keeping turkey moist is to baste as much
as you can and, when the turkey is cooked, place it
on its breast, breast-side down, allowing all the cavity
juices to penetrate the meat.
326
1 Adjust an oven rack to its lowest position and 4 Roast the turkey for 2 hours. Remove the foil and
remove the other racks in the oven. Preheat baste with the remaining butter. Increase the oven
to 165 °C. temperature to 220 °C and continue to roast until
2 Remove turkey parts from neck and breast an instant-read thermometer registers 74 °C in the
cavities and reserve for other uses, if desired. thigh of the bird, about 45 minutes more.
Dry bird well with paper towels, inside and out. 5 Remove turkey from the oven and set aside
Salt and pepper inside the breast cavity. to rest for 15 minutes before carving. Carve
3 Set the bird on a roasting rack in a roasting pan, and serve with roast gravy, cranberry sauce,
breast-side up, brush generously with half the bread sauce, and either or both sausage meat
butter and season with salt and pepper. Tent the and chestnut dressing and parsley and thyme
bird with foil. dressing. Chipolata sausages and rolled rashers
of grilled bacon may also be served.
Duck dishes
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Season and shallow-fry the duck breasts in olive
oil, skin side down, and finish in the oven at
Duck breasts, skinned and scored 4 10
200 °C if required.
Olive oil for frying
2 Meanwhile, place the cherries, vinegar and jelly
Cherries 300 g 750 g
in a pan and heat gently until the jelly has melted.
Raspberry vinegar 4 tbsp 10 tbsp Simmer and remove from the heat.
Bramble jelly or redcurrant jelly 4 tbsp 10 tbsp 3 Stir in the extra virgin olive oil.
Extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp 4 Carve the breasts into slices and serve on
top of the sauce with the cherries and an
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,432 kJ 341 kcal 15.3 g 3.8 g 21.5 g 21.5 g 30.3 g 0.9 g 0.2 g
accompaniment of vegetables.
327
1 Gently heat the confit oil, add the garlic, bay leaf
and thyme.
2 Put the duck legs in the oil and place on a medium
to low heat, ensuring the legs are covered.
3 Cook gently for 4–4½ hours (if using goose, 5–6½
hours may be needed).
4 To test if the legs are cooked, squeeze the flesh
on the thigh bone and it should just fall away.
5 When cooked, remove the legs carefully and
place on a draining tray.
6 When drained, put the confit leg on a baking tray
and place in a preheated oven at 210 °C; remove
when the skin is golden brown (approximately
9–10 minutes), taking care as the meat is delicate.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
7 Heat the butter in a medium sauté pan and reheat
Confit oil 1 litre 2.5 litres the green beans.
Cloves of garlic 4 10 8 Place the braised cabbage in a small pan and
Bay leaf 1 3 reheat slowly.
Sprig of thyme 1 2 9 Place the duck leg in a serving dish or plate along
Duck legs 4 × 200 g 10 × 200 g with the red cabbage and green beans.
Butter 50 g 125 g
Professional tip
Green beans, cooked and trimmed 300 g 750 g
Confit oil is 50/50 olive oil and vegetable oil infused with
Braised red cabbage 250 g 625 g
herbs, garlic, whole spice or any specific flavour you
Seasoning wish to impart into the oil; then, through slow cooking in
the oil, the foodstuff picks up the flavour.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Confit duck legs can be prepared up to three or four
3859 kJ 932 kcal 83.0 g 28.0 g 7.7 g 6.4 g 39.2 g 4.2 g 0.3 g
days in advance. Remove them carefully from the fat
they are stored in, clean off any excess fat and place
directly into the oven. This is a great timesaver in a
busy service.
328
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Healthy eating tips
3,083 kJ 734 kcal 60.5 g 16.9 g 8.2 g 7.8 g 40.0 g 1.4 g l Use the minimum amount of salt to season the duck
With apple sauce and watercress. and the roast gravy.
l Take care to remove all the fat from the roasting tray
before making the gravy.
Note l This dish is high in fat and should be served with
Arrange the duck to cook sitting on one leg, then the plenty of boiled new potatoes and a variety of
other leg and then the breast, so the whole bird cooks vegetables.
evenly.
The temperatures in this recipe reflect industry
standards for cooking duck. For food safety reasons, it
is advisable to cook duck to higher temperatures.
329
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1346 kJ 320 kcal 26.0 g 8.4 g 22.0 g 2.7 g 2.9 g 1.0 g 0.2 g
1 Gently cook the onion in the fat without colour. 3 Place in a tray and finish in a hot oven at 180 °C
Add the chopped liver (if required) and fry until for approximately 5–10 minutes. Check with a
cooked. probe that the centre has reached 75 °C.
2 Add the herbs and seasoning. Mix in the crumbs. Serve separately with roast duck.
Form into thick sausage shapes, in foil.
330
Goose dish
26 Roast goose
331
1 Skin the peppers by brushing with oil and 3 Add the chopped basil and season.
gently scorching in the oven or under the grill. 4 Season the guinea fowl and either shallow-fry or grill.
Alternatively, use a blowtorch with great care.
5 Pour the coulis on to individual plates. Place the
Once scorched, peel the skin from the peppers,
guinea fowl on top and serve immediately.
cut in half and deseed.
2 Place the skinned and deseeded peppers in a
food processor, blend with the olive oil and pass
through a strainer.
Cold dish
1 Blanch all the vegetables individually in boiling 6 Cover with foil, put the lid on and cook in a bain-
salted water, ensuring that they remain firm. marie in a moderate oven for about 45 minutes.
Refresh in cold water, and drain well. Use a temperature probe to check that the centre
2 Blend the chicken and egg whites in a food has reached 70 °C.
processor until smooth. Turn out into a large mixing 7 When cooked, remove the lid and leave to cool
bowl and gradually beat in the double cream. overnight.
3 Season with salt and mill pepper, and fold in the
vegetables. Healthy eating tips
l Keep the added salt to a minimum.
4 Line a lightly greased 1-litre terrine with cling film. l Serve with plenty of salad vegetables and bread or
5 Spoon the farce into the mould and overlap the toast (optional butter or spread).
cling film.
332
Cut the vegetables into neat dice, rounds and Line the terrine with cling film and spoon in Cover the mixture with cling film and press
florets the mixture down gently
Game dishes
1 Place the squab legs in a large casserole and 3 Skim off any impurities, cover with a lid (leaving a
arrange the vegetables tightly in one layer with the small gap) and simmer gently for 50 minutes.
legs, add the bacon then cover with the stock to 4 Skim off any fat or impurities, then add the squab
about 4 cm above the ingredients (you may need breasts and cook for a further 12 minutes.
to top this up with water).
2 Add the muslin-wrapped bouquet garni. Season Note
with salt and bring to a gentle boil. This is a social dish, designed to be placed in the
middle of the table and served with warm, crusty bread,
mashed potato or buttered new potatoes.
333
Arrange the squab legs and vegetables in Cover with stock Add the breasts later, as they need less time
the pan to cook
30 Roast partridge
334
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3076 kJ 742 kcal 56.0 g 19.7 g 11.5 g 3.9 g 38.0 g 1.2 g 1.2 g
336
337
1 Season the hare with salt and pepper, and place into
a suitable container (e.g. stainless steel or china).
2 Cover with the marinade ingredients.
3 Refrigerate, turning the joints over frequently, for
approximately 24 hours.
4 Remove the saddles from the marinade and dry
thoroughly.
5 Remove the vegetables from the marinade and
place into a roasting tray. Place the saddles
on top of the vegetables and roast in the oven
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions at 180 °C.
For the marinade 6 When the saddle is three-quarters cooked,
Carrot, finely sliced 200 g 400 g remove the vegetables.
Onion, finely sliced 200 g 400 g 7 Add the cream to the roasting tray and continue
cooking. Baste the meat frequently with the
Celery, finely sliced 100 g 200 g
cream. Keep the meat pink.
Cloves of garlic 2 5
8 Remove the saddles from the tray. Separate the
Parsley stalks 25 g 60 g
meat from the bone and slice each side into four
Sprig of thyme pieces.
Bay leaf ½ 1 9 Add a few drops of lemon juice to the cooking
Cloves 2 5 liquor, correct the seasoning and consistency,
Peppercorns 12 30 and pass through a fine strainer. Serve the sauce
Red wine 500 ml 1.25 litres with the saddles.
Suitable accompaniments include: cabbage; braised
Wine vinegar 125 ml 310 ml
chestnuts or chestnut purée; Brussels sprouts with
Oil 125 ml 310 ml
chestnuts; purée of celeriac, celeriac and parsnips or
For the hare
celeriac and onion; buttered noodles.
Saddles of hare 2–4 5–10
Salt, pepper Note
Cream 125 ml 310 ml The saddle is a joint cut from the back of the hare,
Lemon juice usually in a similar way to a short saddle of lamb – that
is, a pair of uncut loins. All skin and sinew must be
removed and the joint trimmed before use. If desired, the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
3,561 kJ 859 kcal 60.6 g 14.3 g 9.4 g 7.1 g 47.3 g 3.6 g joint may be larded with pork fat.
A saddle of hare yields one or two portions, depending
on its size.
Variation
l After the saddle is removed, the roasting tray can be It is not essential to marinade the saddle if obtained
deglazed with brandy, whisky or gin. from a young hare but, if there is any doubt as to its
l Sliced mushrooms (cultivated or wild) can be added tenderness, or if it is to be kept for a few days, then the
to the sauce. joint should be marinated, as in this recipe.
338
23 French-style peas (petit pois à la française) 364 53 Spring greens (choux de printemps) 385
339
340
341
342
Cuts of vegetables
The size and shape to which the vegetables are cut may
vary according to their type and use.
1 4 9 13
2 5 10 14
6 15
11
3
16
12
7 8
343
1 Cut the vegetables into 2 cm lengths (short julienne). 2 Cut the lengths into thin slices.
3 Cut the slices into thin strips. 4 Double the length gives a long julienne, used for
garnishing (e.g. salads, meats, fish and poultry dishes).
344
1 Cut the vegetables into convenient-sized lengths. 2 Cut the lengths into 2 mm slices.
3 Cut the slices into 2 mm strips. 4 Cut the strips into 2 mm squares.
345
1 Cut the vegetables into convenient lengths. 2 Cut the lengths into 0.5 cm slices.
3 Cut the slices into 0.5 cm strips. 4 Cut the strips into 0.5 cm squares.
Video: cutting
vegetables into
macédoine
http://bit.ly/
1znW8rU
1 Cut the vegetables into 1.5 cm 2 Cut the lengths into 3 mm slices. 3 Cut the slices into batons
lengths. (3 × 3 × 18 mm).
346
There are at least four accepted methods of cutting 66 °C and 77 °C, chlorophyll is unstable. Chlorophyll is the
paysanne. In order to cut economically, the shape of the green pigment in any plant that photosynthesises. For this
vegetables should dictate which method to choose. All are reason it is important to get through this temperature zone
cut thinly. as quickly as possible.
l 1 cm sided triangles.
l 1 cm sided squares. Steaming
l 1 cm diameter rounds. All vegetables cooked by boiling may also be cooked by
l 1 cm diameter rough-sided rounds. steaming. The vegetables are prepared in exactly the
Concassé means roughly chopped. Skinned and deseeded same way as for boiling, placed into steamer trays, lightly
tomatoes are roughly chopped for many food preparations seasoned with salt and steamed under pressure for the
(see recipe 66). The term is also used to refer to skinned and minimum period of time in order to conserve maximum
deseeded tomatoes that are cut into neat strips or cubes food value and retain colour. High-speed steam cookers are
and used as a garnish. ideal for this purpose and, because of the speed of cooking
they offer, batch cooking (cooking in small quantities
Ready-prepared potatoes throughout the service) can be practised instead of cooking
large quantities prior to service, refreshing and reheating.
Potatoes are obtainable in many convenience forms: peeled,
turned, cut into various shapes for frying, or scooped into
balls (Parisienne) or olive shaped. Frying
l Chips are available fresh, frozen, chilled or vacuum Many vegetables are cooked from raw by the stir-fry method,
packed. a quick and nutritious method of cooking. Vegetables
l Frozen potatoes are available as croquettes, hash may also be deep fried with a protective coating, such as
browns, sauté and roast. tempura vegetables in a tempura batter. Vegetables may
l Mashed potato powder and flakes are also available. also be shallow fried in butter or vegetable oil, for example
shallow-fried courgettes.
347
348
l ‘Waxy’ potatoes are more solid than floury potatoes cells and the starch so they absorb less liquid, making
and hold their shape when boiled, but do not mash the potatoes less gluey and fluffier. The slower the
well. They are particularly suitable for baked and layered mash is cooked the better for the starch as it has more
potato dishes such as boulangère potatoes. Popular structure in the final mixing process, allowing the
varieties include Cara and Charlotte. Waxy potatoes are potato to hold in more fat/liquid than if cooked by the
translucent and may have a moist and pasty feel. more traditional quicker method. Bring the potatoes up
l ‘Floury’ potatoes are especially popular in the UK. They to the boil from cold as normal and boil for 2–3 minutes,
are brighter and granular in appearance, leaving a drier remove and rinse in cold water, then repeat the process
feel. They are suitable for baking, mashing and chipping of boiling from cold and turn the heat down, not even
as they have a soft, dry texture when cooked. They are to a simmer. This will obviously take longer but will
not suitable for boiling, however, because they tend to reduce the water absorption rate dramatically due to
disintegrate. Popular varieties of floury potato include the starch wall created by the first process.
King Edward and Maris Piper. l Roasting: roast potatoes are simply cut into chunks
and parboiled slowly until just cooked on the inside.
During cooking, the starch in the potato starts to absorb
Drain and toss in a liberal amount of olive oil and
water and swell in size. Potatoes need to be cooked for
seasoning, then roast at a high temperature (220 °C)
sufficient time to gelatinise the starch or they will look and
for 15 minutes. Remove, turn the temperature down to
taste undercooked.
180 °C and baste every 5 minutes to ensure a crisp coat
Table 12.2 Potato varieties and recommended cooking methods all over. Once cooked serve immediately, as prolonged
Variety Methods of cookery holding will inevitably cause the inside to steam,
Cara Boil, bake, chip, wedge making the outside soft and leathery.
Charlotte Boil, salad use
Yield
Desiree Boil, roast, bake, chip, mash,
l 0.5 kg of old potatoes will yield approximately three
wedge
portions.
Golden Wonder Boil, roast, crisps l 0.5 kg of new potatoes will yield approximately four
King Edward Boil, bake, roast, mash, chip portions.
Maris Piper Boil, roast, bake, chip l 1.5 kg of old potatoes will yield approximately ten
Pink Fir Apple Boil, salad use portions.
l 1.25 kg of new potatoes will yield approximately ten
Premiere Boil
portions.
Record Crisps
Romano Boil, bake, roast, mash
Saxon Boil, bake, chip
Finishing vegetable dishes
It is important to finish vegetable dishes at the point of
Wilja Boil, bake, chip, mash
service to retain their temperature and, for green vegetables,
l Baking: long slow cooking is best for baked potatoes. so that they retain their colour. There are a variety of finishes
The skin becomes very crisp and turns darker because for vegetable dishes based on the individual recipes. Some
the starch just below the skin converts to sugar, which vegetables are simply brushed with butter or olive oil,
browns in heat. Make sure you cut a slit in the potato as while some are finished with pine nuts, chopped mixed
soon as it comes out of the oven so the interior doesn’t herbs, cream, cheese sauce, toasted almonds or toasted
steam, which makes for a heavier consistency. breadcrumbs with mixed herbs.
l Mashing: mashed potatoes can be made from many
varieties of potato. The starch in the potatoes, once Holding and serving
again, absorbs water and swells during the cooking As soon as vegetables have been cooked or reheated for
process. Then, when the potato is mashed or riced, the service, serve immediately at the correct temperature
cells break open, releasing more starch, which makes (at least 65 °C). Vegetables such as French beans, broccoli
the potatoes creamy and smooth. If you boil potatoes and carrots loose heat very quickly. Vegetables on a buffet
for mashing, return them to the hot pan after draining service must be served in batches and replenished regularly.
and shake over a medium heat for 2–3 minutes to Do not leave vegetables out on a hotplate for long periods
dry the potatoes. Whatever the cooking method, add as green vegetables will lose their colour as well as their
butter when you begin mashing. The butter coats the vitamin C content.
349
350
Test yourself
1 State two quality points to look for when buying leeks.
2 List five vegetables that are in season in autumn.
3 Describe the following cuts of vegetables:
a macédoine
b jardinière
c julienne
d paysanne.
4 Describe the preparation and cooking of braised red cabbage.
5 How should fresh green vegetables be stored?
6 What is meant by ‘blanching’ of vegetables and why is it done?
7 Describe two ways to make vegetable dishes healthier.
8 What is the difference between the method of boiling for green vegetables,
such as broccoli, and root vegetables, such as potatoes?
9 Describe how tofu should be stored.
10 List three quality points you should look for when buying soya.
351
Root vegetables
1 Peel and wash the carrots. 5 When the water has completely evaporated
2 Cut into neat, even pieces, turned barrel shapes check that the carrots are cooked; if not, add a
or batons. little more water and continue cooking. Do not
overcook.
3 Place in a pan with a little salt, a pinch of sugar
and the butter. Barely cover with water. 6 Toss the carrots over a fierce heat for 1–2 minutes
in order to give them a glaze.
4 Cover with buttered paper and allow to boil
steadily in order to evaporate all the water. 7 Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.
352
4 Beetroot (betterave)
Note
Do not cut or prick with a knife as the beetroots will
‘bleed’ and turn pale.
Variation
Beetroot may also be cooked in a steamer, or baked.
It may be served hot:
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l in cream sauce
92 kJ 22 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 5.0 g 5.0 g 0.9 g 1.3 g
l coated in herb-flavoured oil
l coated in butter and marmalade.
353
Peel the cooked beetroot, wearing gloves to avoid staining your skin Cut into neat dice
1 Roll the puff pastry to a thickness of 3 mm. 7 To make the tarts, place the shallots on the
2 Chill the rolled puff pastry for 10 minutes. pastry discs.
3 Finely slice the shallots and sweat down 8 Cook at 180 °C for 12 minutes.
without colour. 9 Once cooked, remove from the oven and top with
4 Cut the puff pastry into 4 discs approximately the diced beetroot and crumbled goats’ cheese.
150 mm in diameter. 10 To finish the dish, place the tarts on plates and
5 Chill the pastry discs for 10 minutes. finish with picked watercress and vinaigrette.
6 Dice the cooked beetroot into pieces 10 × 10 mm.
354
6 Parsnips (panais)
Variation
Parsnips may be roasted in the oven in a little fat (as
shown here) or in with a joint, and can be cooked and
prepared as a purée.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Professional tip
235 kJ 56 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 13.5 g 2.7 g 1.3 g 2.5 g
For great roast parsnips, blanch them for 2 minutes,
drain, then roast in hot olive oil.
355
9 Salsify
356
Bulbs
357
Slice the onions thinly Pass each piece through milk and then seasoned flour
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
713 kJ 171 kcal 10.8 g 6.5 g 18.4 g 16.7 g 1.2 g 1.2 g 0.5 g
358
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
778 kJ 188 kcal 13.2 g 7.1 g 7.5 g 5.5 g 5.1 g 5.0 g 0.7 g
359
1 Trim the leeks and discard any withered leaves. 8 When cooked, remove the thyme and bay leaf,
2 Cut the leeks in half lengthways, but keeping and add the olives.
them attached at the root. Wash well. 9 Serve as a vegetable or as a garnish to
3 Blanch the leeks in boiling water for 2 minutes, accompany roast meats, fish or pasta.
then refresh.
Note
4 Melt the butter in a suitable pan. Sweat the garlic.
5 Place the leeks in the pan; add all other After blanching the leeks it may be necessary to fold
them in half before braising.
ingredients except the olives. The chicken stock
should almost cover the leeks. Season.
6 Bring to the boil and cover. Variation
l Leeks may also be boiled in salted water for
7 Place in a moderate oven at 180 °C for
approximately 10–15 minutes.
approximately 20 minutes. l Leeks may be served with a cream sauce, parsley
sauce or a cheese sauce.
l Coat the leeks with a red wine sauce, sometimes
garnished with mushrooms.
Flower heads
15 Broccoli
360
Variation
l Boiled or steamed cauliflower may be served
with 250 ml of cream sauce, 100 g of melted butter
or 125 ml of hollandaise sauce. Serve the sauce in a
sauceboat.
l Buttered cauliflower is brushed with 25–50 g
melted butter before serving and can be sprinkled
with chopped parsley.
l Fried cauliflower: cut the cooked cauliflower into
four portions then lightly colour on all sides in
25–50 g butter.
Video: boiling
vegetables
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
http://bit.ly/
142 kJ 34 kcal 0.9 g 0.2 g 3.0 g 2.5 g 3.6 g 1.8 g 1E6f57O
Using no additions.
Allow one medium-sized cauliflower for four portions. 3 Cook in lightly salted boiling water, or steam, for
1 Trim the stem and remove the outer leaves. approximately 10–15 minutes. Do not overcook
(if cut into florets, cook for only 3–5 minutes).
2 Hollow out the stem with a peeler or cut into
florets. Wash. 4 Drain well and serve cut into four even portions.
17 Cauliflower au gratin
361
Fungi
362
20 Broad beans
Professional tip
The modern technique is to take the beans out of their
pod and outer skin before serving – this reveals the
bright green, tender beans.
21 Mangetout
Video: boiling
vegetables
http://bit.ly/
1E6f57O
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
94 kJ 22 kcal 0.1 g 0.0 g 2.8 g 2.4 g 3.1 g 0.0 g 0.0 g
363
Variation
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Variations include:
646 kJ 154 kcal 2.9 g 0.5 g 28.5 g 2.1 g 5.1 g 5.9 g l brushing the beans with butter
l gently tossing the cooked beans in butter over heat
without colour
l combining 400 g cooked French beans with 50 g
shallow-fried onions
l combining 400 g cooked French beans with 100 g
cooked flageolet beans.
1 Shell and wash the peas and place in a sauteuse. 4 Correct the seasoning.
2 Peel and wash the onions, shred the lettuce and 5 Mix the remaining butter with the flour, making a
add to the peas with half the butter, a little salt beurre manié, and place it into the boiling peas in
and the sugar. small pieces until thoroughly mixed; serve.
3 Barely cover with water. Cover with a lid and cook When using frozen peas, allow the onions to almost
steadily, preferably in the oven, until tender. cook before adding the peas.
364
Shell the peas and discard the pods Place the prepared ingredients into the Add a beurre manié at the end of the
sauteuse cooking time
365
Professional tip
Okra can become glutinous (slimy) when it is cooked in
a sauce. To avoid this, wash the okra and let them dry
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions before cooking.
Okra (‘ladies’ fingers’) 400 g 1.25 kg
Butter or margarine 50 g 125 g
Healthy eating tips
Cream sauce 250 ml 625 ml
l Use a little unsaturated oil to sweat the okra.
l Try using half cream sauce and half yoghurt, adding
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre very little salt.
928 kJ 221 kcal 20.2 g 9.8 g 5.7 g 5.7 g 4.4 g 3.2 g
26 Okra curry
366
1 Very carefully and lightly wash the okra. Pat dry 5 While stir-frying, trim the okra to remove the tops
and leave intact. and tails.
2 Heat the oil in a wok or frying pan to a 6 Add the trimmed okra to the other ingredients and
medium heat, add the cumin seeds and fry for gently stir-fry until cooked through (approximately
30 seconds. 3–4 minutes).
3 Add the onion and curry paste and stir-fry for 7 Season and serve.
5 minutes.
4 Add the tomato, coriander, peppers, chillies and
sugar, and continue to stir-fry for 5 minutes.
Tubers
367
Method 1 Method 2
1 Wash the potatoes, and boil or steam in their 1 Scrape the potatoes and wash well.
jackets until cooked. 2 Place in a pan of lightly salted boiling water with a
2 Cool slightly, peel while warm and place in a pan bunch of mint and boil gently until cooked (about
of cold water. 20 minutes). Serve as above.
3 When required for service add a little salt and Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
383 kJ 91 kcal 0.1 g 0.0 g 22.0 g 0.8 g 1.9 g 2.4 g
a bunch of mint to the potatoes; heat through
slowly.
4 Drain well; serve brushed with melted butter and Note
sprinkled with chopped mint, or decorate with
The starch cells of new potatoes are immature; to help
blanched, refreshed mint leaves. break down these cells new potatoes are cooked in
water that is already boiling. This also helps to preserve
vitamin C (ascorbic acid) in the potatoes.
368
Professional tip
Drain the potatoes as soon as they are cooked. If they
are left standing in water, they will become too wet and
spoil the texture of the dish.
Pass the cooked potato through a sieve Add milk to the potatoes and combine
369
31 Duchess potatoes
1 Wash, peel and rewash the potatoes. Cut to an 8 Place in a piping bag with a large star tube and
even size. pipe out into neat spirals, about 2 cm in diameter
2 Cook in lightly salted water. and 5 cm tall, on to a lightly greased baking sheet.
3 Drain off the water, cover and return to a low heat 9 Place in a hot oven at 230 °C for 2–3 minutes in
to dry out the potatoes. order to firm the edges slightly.
4 Pass through a medium sieve or a special potato 10 Remove from the oven and brush with egg wash.
ricer or mouli. 11 Brown lightly in a hot oven or under the salamander.
5 Place the potatoes in a clean pan.
Note
6 Add the egg yolks and stir in vigorously with a
kitchen spoon. At step 3, it is important to return the drained potatoes
to the heat, so that they are as dry as possible.
7 Mix in the butter. Correct the seasoning.
Add egg yolks to the mashed potato Pipe the potato into neat spirals, ready for baking
370
Professional tip
l Choose the most suitable varieties for steaming:
Saxon, Nadine, Estima, Maris Piper or Desiree.
Steaming retains more flavour than boiling.
l Always choose evenly sized potatoes so that they will
cook in the same amount of time.
l If the potato is going to be cooked further, e.g. sauté,
it is best to leave the skin on during steaming. The skin
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
will protect the flesh of the potato from the steam.
424 kJ 150 kcal 0.3 g 0.0 g 23.1 g 0.8 g 2.7 g 2.3 g 0.1 g
371
Professional tip
Roast potatoes can be parboiled for 10 minutes, refreshed
and well dried before roasting. This will cut down on the
cooking time and can also give a crisper potato.
35 Chateau potatoes
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
839 kJ 200 kcal 5.9 g 0.7 g 34.4 g 1.2 g 4.2 g 3.5 g 0.0 g
372
373
37 Sauté potatoes
Cut the potatoes into 3 mm slices Toss the slices in hot oil to cook (sauté)
374
Finely slice the onions Sauté the potatoes and onions together
375
40 Parmentier potatoes
376
377
43 Fondant potatoes
Video: making
fondant Healthy eating tips
potatoes l Use a little unsaturated oil to brush over the potatoes
http://bit.ly/ before and after cooking.
1ASKJEX l No added salt is needed; rely on the stock for flavour.
Turn the potatoes into barrel shapes Place in a pan, half covered with stock, to cook
378
379
Variation
Professional tip Additions to potato cakes can include:
Make sure the potato mixture is firm enough to be l chopped parsley, fresh herbs or chives, or duxelle
shaped, and fry the cakes in very hot oil, or they will lose l cooked chopped onion
their shape. l grated cheese.
Place the potatoes on a baking tray with salt Once baked, cut in half and scoop out Mould the potato into cakes
the centre
380
Note
This is a classical variation on Macaire potatoes.
Note
The potato can be made in a 4-portion cake or into
individual rounds.
381
Shred the parboiled potatoes on a grater Press into shape in the frying pan Turn out carefully after cooking
48 Croquette potatoes
382
51 Delmonico potatoes
383
Dice the potatoes Place in a dish, barely covered with milk, After baking, sprinkle with breadcrumbs
to cook and gratinate
Note
Cream sauce may be made using skimmed milk and
natural yoghurt.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Healthy eating tips
641 kJ 141 kcal 5.6 g 2.1 g 21.4 g 5.1 g 4.9 g 7.1 g 0.5 g l Use the minimum amount of salt.
l Try replacing half the cream sauce with natural yoghurt.
384
Leafy vegetables
385
55 Spinach purée
Variation
Creamed spinach purée can be made by mixing in 30 ml
cream and 60 ml béchamel or natural yoghurt before
serving. Serve with a border of cream.
An addition would be 1 cm triangle-shaped croutons
fried in butter.
Spinach may also be served with toasted pine kernels or
finely chopped garlic.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Note
38 kJ 9 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 1.1 g 1.1 g 1.3 g 2.5 g
Overcooking will lessen the vitamin content and
also spoil the colour. This applies to cooking any
green vegetable.
386
387
Note
Brussels sprouts with butter are cooked and served as
outlined here, but brushed with 25–50 g melted butter
(60–125 g for 10 portions). For Brussels sprouts with
chestnuts, to every 400 g of sprouts add 100 g cooked
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre peeled chestnuts.
82 kJ 20 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 1.9 g 1.8 g 3.1 g 3.2 g
Stems
59 Artichoke bottoms
1 Cut off the stalk and pull out all the underneath
leaves.
2 With a large knife, cut through the artichoke
leaving only 1.5 cm at the bottom of the vegetable.
3 With a small, sharp knife, while holding the artichoke
upside down, peel carefully, removing all the leaf
and any green part, keeping the bottom as smooth
as possible. If necessary, smooth with a peeler.
4 Rub immediately with lemon and keep in lemon
water or ascorbic acid solution.
5 Using a spoon or the thumb, remove the centre
furry part, which is called the choke. The choke is
sometimes removed after cooking.
6 Artichoke bottoms should always be cooked in a
blanc (see below).
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
100 kJ 23 kcal 0.2 g 0.1 g 4.2 g 1.2 g 2.5 g 0.9 g 0.1 g
388
Pull out the stalk of the artichoke Alternatively, cut the stalk off Pull off the leaves at the bottom
Note
Artichoke bases may be served as a vegetable; they
are sometimes filled with another vegetable (e.g. peas,
spinach). When they are served ungarnished they are
usually cut into quarters.
389
60 Globe artichokes
390
Note
Young thin asparagus, 50 pieces to the bundle, is known
as sprew or sprue. It is prepared in the same way as
asparagus except that, when it is very thin, the removal
of the leaf tips is dispensed with. It may be served as a
vegetable, perhaps brushed with butter.
Asparagus tips are also used in numerous garnishes for
soups, egg dishes, fish, meat and poultry dishes, cold
dishes, salad, and so on.
Professional tip
As the flavour of asparagus is mild and can be leached
out very easily through the cooking medium, a method
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium of cookery that ensures that no flavour is lost in the
124 kJ 29 kcal 0.9 g 0.1 g 1.6 g 1.6 g 3.5 g 1.6 g 0.1 g cooking process is microwaving.
1 To microwave, place a piece of cling film over a plate
1 kg of asparagus will yield approximately 8 portions. that will fit in the microwave and, more importantly, is
microwave safe.
1 Using the back of a small knife, carefully remove
2 Spread the cling film with a little oil and salt, evenly
the tips of the leaves. place the asparagus on the plate in a single layer.
2 Scrape the stem, either with the blade of a small 3 Cover the plate and asparagus with another piece of
knife or a peeler. cling film, and microwave for 30-second stints until
the asparagus is tender; serve immediately.
3 Wash well. Tie into bundles of about 12 heads.
The benefit of this method is that it retains flavour and
4 Cut off the excess stem. colour, and it can be cooked in minutes, as opposed to
5 Cook in lightly salted boiling water for batch cooking, which will, invariably, cause the asparagus
approximately 5–8 minutes. to lose flavour and colour the longer it is stored.
6 Test if cooked by gently pressing the green part If larger-scale cooking is required, the more traditional
of the stem, which should be tender; do not method, boiling in lightly salted water, should be
used: cooking, say, 100 portions of asparagus in the
overcook.
microwave should be avoided for obvious reasons!
7 Lift carefully out of the water. Remove the string,
drain well and serve.
391
392
63 Braised chicory
1 Have the stock ready and set aside. 4 Drain all the liquid from the chicory and, in a large
2 Trim the chicory of any bruised outside leaves, frying pan, heat the butter and brown the chicory
then trim the ends and use a small, sharp knife to on all sides; deglaze with a little stock and simmer
remove the bitter core at the base of each head. for a few minutes, basting the chicory at all times.
3 Bring a pan of water to the boil and add the 5 Arrange the heads in a single layer on a platter,
lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the sugar and salt sprinkle with the remaining sugar, and season
to taste. Blanch the chicory for 8–10 minutes and with salt and pepper. Leave to cool for about
drain well. 10 minutes.
64 Shallow-fried chicory
Ingredient
Lemon juice
Sugar 1 tbsp
Salt
Chicory
Butter
Stock
Nut-brown butter, lemon juice and chopped parsley,
to serve
1 Trim the stem, remove any discoloured leaves, wash. 3 Drain all the liquid from the chicory. In a large
2 Bring a pan of water to the boil and add the frying pan, heat the butter and brown the chicory
lemon juice, sugar, and salt to taste. Blanch the on all sides. Deglaze with a little stock and simmer
chicory in this for 8–10 minutes and drain well. for a few minutes, basting the chicory at all times.
4 Serve with 10 g per portion nut-brown butter,
lemon juice and chopped parsley.
393
65 Kohlrabi
Variations
l Serve kohlrabi with cream sauce.
l Kohlrabi may be baked and stuffed.
Note
Kohlrabi is a stem that swells to a turnip shape above
the ground. When grown under glass it is pale green in
colour; when grown outdoors it is purplish.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
77 kJ 18 kcal 0.2 g 0.0 g 3.1 g 3.0 g 1.2 g 1.9 g Select kohlrabi with tops that are green, young and
fresh. If the globes are too large they may be woody and
tough.
It can be added to casseroles and stews.
Vegetable fruits
66 Tomato concassé
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
237 kJ 57 kcal 5.3 g 3.3 g 2.1 g 1.9 g 0.5 g 0.7 g 0.3 g
394
Blanch the tomatoes and then peel them Cut each tomato into quarters
Remove the seeds from each petal Roughly chop the tomatoes
395
67 Stuffed tomatoes
Cut out the eye of the tomato Slice off the top and remove the seeds Pipe in the filling and then replace the top
from inside
396
Note
Aubergines may also be shallow-fried, grilled or griddled.
69 Stuffed aubergine
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
557 kJ 134 kcal 12.2 g 1.5 g 4.3 g 3.8 g 2.4 g 4.5 g 0.7 g
1 Cut the aubergines in two lengthwise. 6 Add the well-washed mushrooms. Cook gently for
2 With the point of a small knife, make a cut round a few minutes.
the halves approximately 0.5 cm from the edge, 7 Mix in the pulp, parsley and tomato; season.
then make several cuts 0.5 cm deep in the centre. Replace in the aubergine skins.
3 Deep fry in hot fat at 185 °C for 2–3 minutes; 8 Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and melted butter.
drain well. Brown under the salamander.
4 Scoop out the centre pulp and chop it finely. 9 Serve with a cordon of demi-glace or jus-lié.
5 Cook the shallots in a little oil or fat without
colouring.
397
70 Marrow
Variation
All the variations for cauliflower (recipes 16 and 17) may
be used with marrow.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
44 kJ 11 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 2.1 g 2.0 g 0.6 g 0.9 g
71 Marrow provençale
398
72 Shallow-fried courgettes
Using butter.
73 Deep-fried courgettes
Professional tip
Make sure the oil is very hot before adding the
courgette. Fry it quickly and drain it before serving.
399
75 Courgette flowers
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
810 kJ 193 kcal 6.6 g 1.2 g 27.4 g 2.2 g 7.5 g 1.5 g 0.0 g
400
1 Gently break off the flowers from the courgettes, 12 Dip them into batter then place them into the fryer
ensuring they stay intact. for 1 minute until golden brown.
2 Carefully snap out and discard the stigma from 13 Drain briefly on some kitchen paper and serve.
the flowers.
3 Place the fish mousse in a bowl, season lightly
and mix.
4 Once the mousse is ready, place into a
disposable piping bag.
5 Gently open the courgette flowers a little and pipe
in the mousse until the flower is half full.
6 Twist the ends of the petals to seal in the mousse.
7 Place the filled flowers into a steamer or steaming
basket over a pan of boiling water.
8 Steam for 2–3 minutes, then carefully immerse
into a bowl of iced water to stop the cooking
process.
9 Remove from the water, pat dry and store in an
airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 hours.
10 Heat the oil for deep-frying to 180 °C.
Courgettes with flowers
11 Roll the filled courgette flowers in plain flour;
shake off the excess.
401
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Peel the squash, cut it in half and remove the seeds.
Butternut squash or pumpkin 500 g 1.25 kg 2 Cut the squash into 1.5 cm dice or into small
wedges.
Butter or margarine 25 g 60 g
Olive oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
3 Place the butter into a suitable roasting pan and
heat gently. Add the olive oil, ginger and cinnamon.
Ginger, peeled and freshly chopped ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
4 Add the squash gently and stir until the squash
Ground cinnamon ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
is coated in the spice mixture. Season and add
Salt the sugar.
Caster sugar 10 g 25 g
5 Place in an oven at 200 °C until tender and
Lemon, juice of ½ 1¼ golden brown.
6 When cooked, sprinkle with lemon juice.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
519 kJ 125 kcal 11.0 g 4.2 g 6.0 g 5.3 g 1.1 g 1.7 g 0.0 g
Note
Garlic may be added to the spice mixture, and mixed
spice may be used in place of cinnamon.
Peel and halve the squash, then remove Cut the squash into even pieces Stir the squash pieces into the warm butter
the seeds and spices before roasting
402
1 Place the peppers on a tray in the oven or under 6 Cook in a moderate oven at 180–200 °C for
the salamander for a few minutes, or deep-fry in 1 hour or until tender.
hot oil at 180 °C, until the skin blisters. 7 Serve garnished with picked parsley.
2 Remove the skin; carefully cut off the top and
empty out all the seeds. Healthy eating tips
l This dish is low in fat if the peppers are placed in the
3 Stuff with a well-seasoned pilaff of rice (ingredients oven or under the salamander, not deep-fried, and
as listed above), which may be varied by the the butter/oil is kept to a minimum.
addition of mushrooms, tomatoes, ham, and so on. l Add little or no salt.
l If extra vegetables are added to the rice, and a
4 Replace the top of the peppers.
vegetable stock used, this dish can be a useful
5 Place the peppers on the sliced carrot and onion vegetarian starter.
in a pan suitable for the oven; add the bouquet
garni, stock and seasoning. Cover with a buttered
paper and a lid.
Briefly heat the peppers and then peel them Cut off the top and empty out the seeds Fill the pepper and then replace the stem
403
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Place the salmon on a suitable tray (on parchment
paper or a non-stick tray) season with salt and
Salmon fillets 4 × 150 g 10 × 150 g
pepper, sprinkle with olive oil and squeeze
Salt and pepper
the juice of a lime on top. Cover with foil and
Olive oil, for sprinkling gently bake in a preheated oven at 200 °C for
Lime 2 5 approximately 15 minutes.
Stale bread, diced 100 g 250 g 2 Place the diced bread in a food processor
Olive oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp with the olive oil. Blitz until the bread becomes
Basil leaves, chopped 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp breadcrumbs, place on a tray and bake the
crumbs until golden brown.
Mayonnaise 4 tbsp 10 tbsp
3 Add the basil leaves to the mayonnaise; add a
Broad beans 200 g 500 g
squeeze of lime juice.
Sea kale 100 g 250 g
4 The broad beans and sea kale should be
Samphire 100 g 250 g
blanched in boiling water for 3-4 minutes. Refresh
Salad leaves, rocket in cold water and drain. Place in a bowl, sprinkle
Lime wedges 4 10 with olive oil and lime juice, and season.
5 Dress the cooked salmon on a suitable plate,
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2548 kJ 613 kcal 45.0 g 6.9 g 18.3 g 1.8 g 37.5 g 2.8 g 0.8 g
mask with the basil mayonnaise and sprinkle with
breadcrumbs.
6 Garnish with the broad beans, sea kale and
Variation samphire, finish with the salad leaves and lime
Use roasted flaked almonds as an alternative to wedges.
breadcrumbs.
404
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 In a large bowl, cover the arame with water and
soak for 10 minutes. Drain well.
Arame, dried 125 g 320 g
2 Place the arame back in the bowl, add the
Green cabbage, shredded 500 g 1.25 kg
cabbage, parsley, carrots, celery, chives and mix
Parsley, coarsely chopped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
well.
Carrots, cut into julienne 125 g 320 g
3 Add the cooked noodles, oil and vinegar; season
Celery, finely chopped 50 g 125 g and mix well.
Chives, chopped 50 g 125 g 4 Serve garnished with diced tofu.
Udon noodles, cooked 400 g 1 kg
Sesame oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Rice vinegar 3 tbsp 7 tbsp
Smoked tofu, 1 cm dice 75 g 180 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1138 kJ 271 kcal 9.4 g 1.3 g 39.0 g 8.3 g 10.2 g 7.5 g 0.4 g
1 Peel and wash the carrots and turnips; cut into 3 Cook the peas and refresh.
0.5 cm dice (macédoine) or batons (jardinière); 4 Mix the vegetables and, when required, reheat in
cook separately in lightly salted water, do not hot salted water.
overcook. Refresh.
5 Drain well, serve brushed with melted butter.
2 Top and tail the beans; cut into 0.5 cm dice, cook
and refresh, do not overcook.
405
82 Ratatouille
Ingredients for ratatouille Add the tomato to the vegetables during cooking (step 10)
406
84 Roasted vegetables
407
1 Peel the onions and cut into eight pieces. 5 Place in a preheated oven at 180 °C for
Cut the peppers into halves, deseed and cut approximately 15 minutes.
each into approximately 4–6 even pieces. Cut 6 Serve immediately.
the courgettes into 2 × 1 cm batons. Cut the
aubergine into 2 × 1 cm batons. Note
2 Place all the vegetables (and the garlic) into a
These vegetables may also be chilled and served with a
suitable roasting dish, sprinkle with the olive oil salad as a starter.
and balsamic vinegar.
3 Season lightly with sea salt and pepper.
Healthy eating tips
4 Sprinkle with rosemary and basil. Lightly brush the vegetables with the olive oil and add
the minimum amount of salt.
85 Tempura
Ingredient 4 portions
Vegetable oil 500 ml
Courgettes, sliced 2
Sweet potato, scrubbed and sliced 1
Green pepper, seeds removed and cut into strips 1
Shiitake mushroom, stalks removed and halved if large 4
Onion, sliced as half moons 1
Parsley sprigs, to garnish 4
Batter
(all ingredients must be stored in the fridge until just before
mixing)
Egg yolk 1
Ice-cold sparkling water 200 ml
Plain flour, sifted 100 g
408
1 To prevent splattering during the frying, make sure 8 To make the Tentsuyu sauce (if required),
to dry all deep-fry ingredients thoroughly first with combine the ingredients in a small saucepan;
a kitchen towel. heat it through and leave to one side.
2 For the batter, beat the egg yolk lightly and mix Any vegetables with a firm texture may be used
with the ice-cold water. for tempura.
3 Add half the flour to the egg and water mixture.
Professional tip
Give the mixture a few strokes. Add the rest of the
The water and other batter ingredients must be ice cold.
flour all at once. Stroke the mixture a few times with
chopsticks or a fork until the ingredients are loosely The batter should be lumpy to give it texture. Do not
combined. The batter should be very lumpy. If over- over-mix it; this will make it oily and heavy.
mixed, tempura will be oily and heavy. Only fry a few pieces at once.
4 Heat the oil to 160 °C.
5 Dip the vegetables into plain flour and then into
Healthy eating tips
the batter, a few pieces at a time. Fry until just Use sunflower or groundnut oil for frying.
crisp and golden (about 1½ minutes).
6 Drain the cooked vegetables on a kitchen towel.
7 Serve immediately with a pinch of salt, garnished
with parsley sprigs and lemon wedges, dry-
roasted salt or with Tentsuyu dipping sauce in a
small bowl with grated ginger. This dish can also
be served with an accompaniment of grated
white radish.
Use sparkling water to make tempura batter Cut a variety of vegetables into even pieces Dip each piece into the batter and then
deep-fry it
409
86 Vegetable biryani
410
Curry sauce
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Onion, chopped 50 g 125 g
Mixed vegetables (e.g. cauliflower, 600 g 1.5 kg Clove of garlic, crushed ¼ ½
broccoli, peppers, carrots,
courgettes, mushrooms, aubergines) Butter or oil 10 g 25 g
Butter or oil 100 g 250 g Flour 10 g 25 g
Onions, chopped finely 150 g 375 g Curry powder 5g 12 g
Garam masala 25 g 60 g Tomato purée 5g 12 g
Creamed coconut (or 50 g/125 g 25 g 60 g Stock 375 ml 1 litre
desiccated coconut)
Apple, chopped 25 g 60 g
Curry sauce made using vegetable 500 ml 1.5 litre
stock Chutney, chopped 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
411
Vegetable protein
For a 50 g portion.
412
1 In a suitable saucepan whisk together the hoisin 3 Add the sauce mixture to the stir-fry; cooking until
sauce, half the vegetable oil, half the soy sauce, the vegetables are al dente.
the rice vinegar, sugar and vegetable stock. Bring 4 Serve with freshly cooked noodles or pilaff rice.
to boil and add the cornflour (diluted in a little water
to make a slurry). Add the garlic and ginger. Stir.
2 In a suitable wok, stir fry the seitan in the
remaining vegetable oil, then add the remaining
soy sauce. Stir fry for approximately 3 minutes.
Add the spring onions, peppers, broccoli and
French beans. Stir fry for a further 3 minutes.
413
414
Ingredients Dough
The principal ingredients in bread and dough products are Fermentation
wheat flour and yeast. Bread and bread products form the
For dough to become leavened bread (bread that has risen,
basis of our diet and are staple products in our society. We
rather than flat bread) it must go through a fermentation
eat bread at breakfast, lunch and dinner, as sandwiches,
process. This is brought about by the action of yeast, a living
bread rolls, croissants, French sticks, and so on. Bread is also
micro-organism rich in protein and vitamin B. The yeast
used as an ingredient for many other dishes, either as slices
reacts with enzymes in the dough, which converts sugar
for sandwiches or toast, as fried bread or as breadcrumbs.
into alcohol, producing the characteristic flavour of bread.
Dough consists of strong flour (flour with a high gluten The action also produces carbon dioxide, which makes the
and protein content), water, salt and yeast, which are bread rise.
kneaded together to the required consistency at a suitable
Yeast requires ideal conditions for growth. These are:
temperature. It is then allowed to prove (to rise and increase
l warmth: a good temperature for dough production is
in size), when the yeast produces carbon dioxide and water,
22–30 °C
which aerates the dough. When baked it produces a light,
l moisture: the liquid should be added at approximately
digestible product with flavour and colour.
37 °C – if it is cooler, the yeast may not activate; if it is
Salted dough is more manageable than unsalted dough. any hotter it may kill the yeast
Salt is usually added a few moments before the end of the l food: this is obtained from the starch in the flour
kneading, since its function is to help expand the dough’s l time: this is needed to allow the yeast to grow.
volume.
Dried yeast has been dehydrated and must be creamed
Flour-based products provide energy and a variety of with a little water before use. It will keep for several months
vitamins and minerals. Wholemeal bread products also in its dry state. Some types of dried yeast can be used
provide roughage, an essential part of a healthy diet. straight from the packet.
415
Yeast will not survive in a high concentration of sugar or salt, Laminated doughs
and its growth will slow down in a very rich dough with a Croissants and Danish pastries are enriched doughs to
high fat and egg content. which the fat is added by layering or lamination. This makes
When mixing yeast in water or milk, make sure that the them softer to eat because the fat in the dough insulates
liquid is at the correct temperature (37 °C), and disperse the water molecules, keeping the moisture level higher
the yeast in the liquid (the word ‘disperse’ is used as living during baking.
organisms cannot be dissolved). Danish pastries may be filled with frangipane, apple,
custard, pastry cream, cherries and many other ingredients.
Why does dough ferment?
It is interesting to understand why doughs ferment and Speciality doughs
what the effects are on the end product. In order to l Blinis: a type of savoury pancake traditionally made
understand why yeast dough rises, it is important to note from buckwheat flour.
that the main ingredients of natural leavening are water, l Naan bread: a leavened Indian bread traditionally
air and, most importantly, sugar, which is transformed into cooked in a tandoor (oven).
carbon dioxide and alcohol, and causes the leavening. The l Pitta bread: Middle Eastern and Greek unleavened
carbon dioxide forms bubbles inside the dough and makes bread.
it rise. Fermentation is a transformation undergone by l Chapatti: an Indian unleavened bread made from a
organic matter (sugars). fine ground wholemeal flour known as ‘atta’.
l Pizza dough: this is traditionally made using ‘00 flour’ –
Types of dough a fine flour produced from the central part of the wheat
grain that produces light, crisp doughs. Pizza dough is
Dough products come in a variety of forms and styles.
often enriched with olive oil to provide moisture and
The variety of flour alongside the additional ingredients
flavour.
incorporated, whether the dough is leavened or unleavened,
provides dough products with their own unique qualities.
The majority of doughs have some sort of leavening agent, Convenience dough products
usually yeast, or a starter, from which the natural yeast in There are many different types of convenience dough
flour is developed slowly over a long period of time and product on the market.
replaced with fresh flour and water as the required amount l Fresh and frozen pre-proved dough products: for
of the starter is used to produce the bread in question. example, rolls, croissants, Danish pastries and French
breads
Some dough products do not require yeast as a raising l Bake-off products that are finished and ready for
agent. Soda bread, for example, uses bicarbonate of soda, baking: these can be bought either frozen or fresh, or
an alkali which reacts with the acidic components within in modified atmosphere-packaged forms (in vacuum
doughs and batters to release carbon dioxide. The carbon packs, for example). This process removes most of the
dioxide raises the product and helps with the development oxygen around the product to slow down spoilage.
of texture. Other dough products, such as pitta bread and Such products have to be kept refrigerated. They
flatbreads, do not use a raising agent and are referred to as include garlic bread, bread rolls and Danish pastries.
unleavened breads.
l When using machines, check that they are in good If the crust, is broken this may be because the dough was
working order. under-proved at the second stage.
l Always remember the health and safety rules when
If there are white spots on the crust, this may be because
using machinery.
the dough was not covered before the second proving.
l Divide the dough with a dough divider, hard scraper
or hydraulic cutting machine. This is referred to as
scaling the dough. This can be done by hand for smaller Storage of cooked dough
quantities. products
l Check the divided dough pieces for weight. When
Store dough products in clean, air-tight containers at room
weighing, remember that doughs lose up to 12.5 per
temperature or in a freezer for longer periods. Do not store
cent of their water during baking.
in a refrigerator unless you want the bread to stale quickly
l Keep the flour, bowl and liquid warm.
for use as breadcrumbs. Staling will also occur quickly in
l Remember to knock the dough back (re-knead it)
products that contain a lot of fat and milk. Many commercial
carefully once proved, as this will expel the gas and
dough products contain anti-staling agents.
allow the yeast to be dispersed properly, coming back
into direct contact with the dough. Crusty rolls and bread are affected by changes in storage
l Proving allows the dough to ferment; the second prove conditions; they are softened by a damp environment and
is essential for giving dough products the necessary humid conditions, so should be stored in a dry environment
volume and a good flavour. to keep them crusty.
l Time and temperature are crucial when cooking dough
products. Ensure the oven is at the correct temperature
before placing the product in to bake.
Bread
Today restaurants often offer a range of different flavoured
l Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when
breads. A wide variety is available internationally, with
using frozen dough products.
different nations and regions having their own speciality
l Contamination can occur if doughs are defrosted
breads. Bread also plays an important part in many religious
incorrectly.
festivals, especially Christian and Jewish festivals.
If your dough is sour, this may be because: monitored to control the rate of fermentation.
l the yeast was stale
l too much yeast was used.
417
Test yourself
1 What is meant by fermentation?
2 Name two types of speciality bread.
3 Why is temperature so important when making bread dough using yeast?
4 What is the raising agent used in soda bread?
5 What is the difference between strong and soft flour?
6 State the nutritional benefits of wholemeal flour.
7 Give two examples, with descriptions, of dough products in the following
categories:
a enriched doughs
b laminated doughs
c speciality doughs.
8 Name three seeds that are often sprinkled on bread rolls before baking.
9 What is the difference between leavened and unleavened bread?
10 What is the meaning of the term ‘scaling’?
418
Bread doughs
1 Wholemeal bread
Ingredient Makes 2
loaves
Unsalted butter or oil 60 g
Honey 3 tbsp
Water, lukewarm 500 ml
Fresh yeast 25 g
or
Dried yeast 18 g
Salt 1 tbsp
Flour, unbleached strong white 125 g
Flour, stoneground wholemeal 625 g
1 Melt the butter in a saucepan. 11 Divide the dough into two equal pieces.
2 Mix together 1 tbsp of honey and 4 tbsp of the 12 Form each piece of dough into a cottage loaf or
water in a bowl. place in a suitable loaf tin.
3 Disperse the yeast into the honey mixture. 13 Allow to prove in a warm place for approximately
4 In a basin, place the melted butter, remaining 45 minutes.
honey and water, the yeast mixture and salt. 14 Place in a preheated oven, 220 °C and bake until
5 Add the white flour and half the wholemeal flour. well browned (approximately 40–45 minutes).
Mix well. 15 When baked, the bread should sound hollow and
6 Add the remaining wholemeal flour gradually, the sides should feel crisp when pressed.
mixing well between each addition. 16 Cool on a wire rack.
7 The dough should pull away from the side of the
bowl and form a ball. The resulting dough should Variation
be soft and slightly sticky. Alternatively, the bread may be divided into 50 g rolls,
brushed with egg wash and baked at 200 °C for
8 Turn out on to a floured work surface. Sprinkle
approximately 10 minutes.
with white flour, knead well.
9 Brush a clean bowl with melted butter or oil.
Place the dough in the bowl, cover with a damp Healthy eating tip
l Only a little salt is necessary to ‘control’ the yeast.
cloth and allow to prove in a warm place. This will
Many customers will prefer less salty bread.
take approximately 1–1½ hours.
10 Knock back and further knead the dough. Cover
again and rest for 10–15 minutes.
419
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
633 kJ 150 kcal 3.4 g 0.5 g 26.0 g 1.2 g 5.3 g 1.4 g 0.3 g
Per roll.
420
3 Parmesan rolls
Professional tip
Ingredient Makes 30 rolls When making bread that requires rolling out as opposed
to being individually shaped, it is helpful to decrease
Bread roll dough (see recipe 2 but omit the seeds) the liquid content by 10 per cent so it will be easier to
Parmesan cheese, grated 200 g process.
To ensure the squares are all the same size, mark a grid
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium using the back of the knife before cutting.
2,169 kJ 512 kcal 9.9 g 2.2 g 94.3 g 1.8 g 17.5 g 5.2 g 1.0 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
759 kJ 181 kcal 9.2 g 1.7 g 21.7 g 2.8 g 4.2 g 1.2 g 1.0 g
1 Finely dice the red onion. Sweat it, then leave to 4 Roll the dough as you would for a Swiss roll, and
cool. seal the edge.
2 Chop the sage and add it to the onion. 5 Cut into 50 g slices.
3 Pin out bread dough in a rectangle. Spread the 6 Place the slices on a prepared baking sheet and
onion and sage mixture over seven-eighths of the egg wash. Bake in a preheated oven at 220 °C for
dough. Egg wash the exposed edge. approximately 10 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.
421
2 Sieve the flour, salt and skimmed milk powder. 13 With the back of the hand flatten the dough
pieces.
3 Add the shortening and rub through the dry
ingredients. 14 Prove at 38–40 °C in humid conditions, preferably
in a prover.
4 Disperse the yeast into warm water, approximately
37 °C. Add and dissolve the sugar. Add to the 15 Bake at 225 °C for 25–30 minutes.
above ingredients. 16 After baking, remove the bread from the tins
immediately and place on a cooling wire.
422
6 Olive bread
Ingredient 4 loaves 1 For the starter, dissolve the yeast in the water,
add the flour and sugar, mix well, cover and leave
Starter
to ferment for 30 minutes.
Yeast 40 g
2 For the dough, sieve the flour, sugar and salt into
Water at 37 °C 180 ml
a mixing bowl, add the water followed by the
Strong flour 225 g
starter and start mixing slowly.
Sugar 5g
3 Gradually add the oil and continue mixing to
Dough achieve a smooth dough.
Strong flour 855 g
4 Cover with cling film and prove for 1 hour or until
Sugar 40 g double in size.
Salt 20 g 5 Knock back, add the olives and divide the dough
Water at 37 °C 450 ml into four.
Olive oil 160 ml 6 Roll into long shapes and place on a baking sheet
Green olives, cut into quarters 100 g sprinkled with rice cones, return to the prover and
leave until double in size.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium 7 Brush with olive oil and bake at 220 °C for
5,174 kJ 1,229 kcal 44.2 g 6.5 g 188.3 g 3.5 g 30.9 g 15.9 g 5.2 g
20–25 minutes.
8 When cooked, the bread should sound hollow
when tapped on the base.
9 Leave to cool on a wire rack.
423
1 Make up the starter. 2 Starter ready for use after proving. 3 Start mixing in the ingredients for
the main dough, tearing up the
starter.
4 Continue mixing in the ingredients 5 Shape the dough. 6 Divide and roll into loaves.
and working the dough.
7 Rye bread
Ingredient 1 loaf
Fresh yeast (or dried yeast may be used) 15 g
Water, warm 60 ml
Black treacle 1 tbsp
Vegetable oil 1 tbsp
Caraway seeds (optional) 15 g
Salt 15 g
Lager 250 ml
Rye flour 250 g
Unbleached bread flour 175 g
Polenta
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
7,174 kJ 1,690 kcal 24.7 g 2.9 g 331.8 g 12.5 g 46.7 g 46.2 g 6.0 g Egg wash
424
1 Disperse the yeast in the warm water (at 9 Shape the dough into an oval approximately
approximately 37 °C). 25 cm long.
2 In a basin mix the black treacle, oil, two-thirds of 10 Place on to a baking sheet lightly sprinkled with
the caraway seeds (if required) and the salt. Add polenta.
the lager. Add the yeast and mix in the sieved rye 11 Allow the dough to prove in a warm place,
flour. Mix well. preferably in a prover, until double in size
3 Gradually add the bread flour. Continue to add the (approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour).
flour until the dough is formed and it is soft and 12 Lightly brush the loaf with egg wash, sprinkle with
slightly sticky. the remaining caraway seeds (if required).
4 Turn the dough on to a lightly floured surface and 13 Using a small, sharp knife, make three diagonal
knead well. slashes, approximately 5 mm deep into the top of
5 Knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic. the loaf.
6 Place the kneaded dough into a suitable bowl that 14 Place in a preheated oven at 190 °C and bake for
has been brushed with oil. approximately 50–55 minutes.
7 Cover with a damp cloth and allow the dough to 15 When cooked, turn out. The bread should sound
prove in a warm place until it is double in size. hollow when tapped and the sides should feel
This will take about 1½–2 hours. crisp.
8 Turn the dough on to a lightly floured work 16 Allow to cool.
surface, knock back the dough to original
size. Cover and allow to rest for approximately Healthy eating tip
5–10 minutes. l Only a little salt is necessary to ‘control’ the yeast.
Many customers will prefer less salty bread.
8 Soda bread
Ingredient 2 loaves
Flour, wholemeal 250 g
Flour (strong) 250 g
Bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp
Salt 1 tsp
Buttermilk 200 g
Water, warm 60 ml
Butter, melted 25 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
8,341 kJ 1,970 kcal 39.8 g 20.9 g 357.8 g 18.5 g 67.9 g 20.9 g 3.6 g
1 Sift the flours, salt and bicarbonate of soda into a 4 Mould into 2 round loaves and mark the top with
bowl. a cross.
2 Make a well and add the buttermilk, warm water 5 Bake at 200 °C for about 25 minutes. When the
and melted butter. bread is ready, it should make a hollow sound
3 Work the dough for about 5 minutes. when tapped.
425
9 Bagels
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
670 kJ 158 kcal 2.1 g 0.5 g 32.7 g 5.0 g 6.2 g 1.6 g 0.8 g
1 Sieve the flour, place in a mixing bowl. 7 Knock back and scale at 50 g pieces, shape into
2 Make a well and add the yeast which has been rolls and make a hole in the centre using a small
dissolved in the water. rolling pin.
3 Mix a little of the flour into the yeast to form a 8 Place on a floured board and prove for
batter, sprinkle over some of the flour from the 10 minutes.
sides and leave to ferment. 9 Carefully drop into boiling water and simmer until
4 Mix together the salt, sugar, oil, egg yolk and milk. they rise to the surface.
5 When the batter has fermented add the rest of the 10 Lift out and place on a silicone-covered baking
ingredients and mix to achieve a smooth dough. sheet, egg wash, sprinkle or dip in poppy seeds
and bake at 210 °C for 30 minutes.
6 Cover and prove for 1 hour (BFT).
Use a rolling pin to make a hole in the centre Poach the bagels in water Egg wash the bagels and sprinkle with seeds
of each bagel before baking
426
10 Cholla bread
11 Focaccia
Ingredient 1 loaf
Active dry yeast 2 packets
Sugar 1 tsp
Lukewarm water (about blood temperature) 230 ml
Extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle on the bread 70 g
Salt 1½ tsp
Flour, unbleached all-purpose 725 g
Coarse salt
Picked rosemary
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
12,915 kJ 3,052 kcal 78.7 g 11.5 g 553.6 g 14.7 g 66.7 g 30.0 g 5.6 g
427
1 Dissolve the yeast and sugar in half of the 5 Knock back the dough, knead it for a further
lukewarm water in a bowl; let sit until foamy. In 5 minutes, and gently roll it out in to a large disc
another bowl, add the remaining water, the olive or sheet to approximately 2 cm thick.
oil, and the salt. 6 Let rise for 15 minutes, covered. Oil your fingers
2 Pour in the yeast mixture. and make impressions with them in the dough,
3 Blend in the flour, a quarter at a time, until the 3 cm apart. Let prove for 1 hour.
dough comes together. Knead on a floured board 7 Preheat the oven to 210 °C. Drizzle the dough with
for 10 minutes, adding flour as needed to make olive oil and sprinkle with coarse salt and picked
it smooth and elastic. Put the dough in an oiled rosemary.
bowl, turn to coat well, and cover with a towel. 8 Bake for 15–20 minutes in a very hot oven
4 Let rise in a warm draught-free place for 1 hour, at 200 °C, until golden brown. Sprinkle with
until doubled in size. additional oil if desired. Cut into squares and
serve warm.
12 Pizza
428
Note Variation
Pizza is a traditional dish originating from southern Oregano is sprinkled on most pizzas before baking.
Italy. In simple terms it is a flat bread dough that can This is a basic recipe and many variations exist. Some
be topped with a wide variety of ingredients and baked have the addition of olives, artichoke hearts, prawns,
quickly. The only rule is not to add wet ingredients, such mortadella sausage, garlic sausage or anchovy fillets;
as tomatoes, which are too juicy, otherwise the pizza other combinations include:
will become soggy. Traditionally, pizzas are baked in a l mozzarella cheese, anchovies, capers and garlic
wood-fired brick oven, but they can be baked in any l mozzarella cheese, tomato and oregano
type of hot oven for 8–15 minutes depending on the l ham, mushrooms, egg and parmesan cheese
ingredients. The recipe given here is a typical one. l prawns, tuna, capers and garlic
l ham, mushrooms and olives.
13 Naan bread
429
Buns
14 Bun dough
430
1 Sift the flour. 2 Rub in the fat. 3 Make a well in the flour and pour
in the beaten egg.
4 Pour in the liquid. 5 Fold the ingredients together. 6 Knead the dough.
431
15 Bath buns
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
827 kJ 196 kcal 6.5 g 3.6 g 31.9 g 13.4 g 4.5 g 1.4 g 0.1 g
1 Mix the bun spice into the basic dough and 5 Place on a paper-lined baking sheet in rough
knead. shapes.
2 Add the sultanas, two-thirds of the sugar nibs and 6 Sprinkle liberally with the rest of the nibbed sugar.
all the egg yolks. 7 Allow to prove until double in size.
3 Using a plastic scraper, cut in the ingredients (it is 8 Bake at 200 °C for 15–20 minutes.
usual for the ingredients not to be fully mixed in).
9 Brush with bun wash as soon as they come out
4 Scale into 60 g pieces. of the oven.
Ingredient 12–14 buns 24 buns 1 Add the dried fruit and spice to the basic dough,
mix well.
Basic bun dough (recipe 14) 1 kg 2 kg
2 Scale into 60 g pieces and roll.
Currants 75 g 150 g
Sultanas 75 g 150 g
3 Place on a baking sheet lined with silicone paper
in neat rows opposite each other and egg wash.
Mixed spice 5g 10 g
4 Mix together the ingredients for the crossing
Crossing paste
paste. Pipe it in continuous lines across the buns.
Strong flour 125 g 250 g
5 Allow to prove.
Water 250 ml 500 ml
6 Bake at 220 °C for 15–20 minutes.
Oil 25 ml 50 ml
7 Brush with bun wash as soon as they come out
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
of the oven.
744 kJ 177 kcal 6.7 g 3.6 g 26.8 g 8.3 g 4.6 g 1.2 g 0.1 g
Variation
To make fruit buns, proceed as for hot cross buns
without the crosses.
432
17 Swiss buns
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
697 kJ 165 kcal 5.6 g 3.4 g 27.0 g 8.4 g 3.4 g 1.0 g 0.0 g
18 Doughnuts
Variation
The caster sugar can be mixed with ground cinnamon.
Ingredient 12 doughnuts
Basic bun dough (recipe 14) 1 kg Health and safety
Caster sugar 500 g As a fryer is not a regular piece of equipment found in a
Raspberry jam 250 g patisserie, a portable fryer is often used. Always make
sure it is on a very secure surface in a suitable position.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
Never attempt to move it until it has completely cooled
918 kJ 218 kcal 13.3 g 4.0 g 22.6 g 4.0 g 3.6 g 1.2 g down. In addition, extreme care must be taken to avoid
Using hard margarine and peanut oil. serious burns.
l Only use a deep fat fryer after proper training.
1 Scale the dough into 60 g pieces. l Make sure the oil is clean and the fryer is filled to the
correct level.
2 Roll into balls and make a hole in the dough using
l Preheat before using but never leave unattended.
a rolling pin. l Always carefully place the products into the fryer –
3 Prove on an oiled paper-lined tray. never drop them in. Use a basket if appropriate.
l Never place wet products into the fryer.
433
Savarin doughs
19 Savarin dough
Eggs 5 Lemons 2
434
1 Cream the yeast in milk to make a 2 Add the dissolved yeast to the 3 The mixture after fermentation.
ferment. flour and sprinkle a little flour over
it.
4 Add beaten eggs, sugar and salt. 5 The dough after proving. 6 Add the butter.
7 After proving, pipe into moulds. 8 After proving for the final time.
435
21 Marignans chantilly
Professional tip
Savarin paste is notorious for sticking in the mould.
Always butter moulds carefully and flour. After use do
not wash the moulds but wipe clean with kitchen paper.
22 Blueberry baba
436
short pastry is crisp and savoury, whereas puff pastry protein. When flour is mixed with water it is converted into a
is made from light layers of fine paste, separated by butter sticky dough. This characteristic is due to the gluten, which
or a pastry fat that produces steam to push the layers becomes sticky when moistened. The relative proportion of
apart during the baking process. The other types of pastry starch and gluten varies in different wheats; those with a low
covered are forms of sweet paste, containing the crisp percentage of gluten (soft flour) are not suitable for bread
characteristics of short pastry but with a richer and sweeter making. For this reason, wheat is blended.
flavour. Choux paste is used in the production of éclairs,
In milling, the whole grain is broken up, the parts separated,
profiteroles and choux buns, whereas suet paste is used to
and then sifted, blended and ground into flour. Some of
produce steamed puddings, rolls and dumplings that can
the outer coating of bran is removed, as is the wheatgerm,
be either sweet or savoury.
which contains oil and is therefore likely to become rancid
and spoil the flour. For this reason wholemeal flour should
Flour not be stored for more than 14 days.
Flour is probably the most common commodity in daily
use. It forms the foundation of bread, pastry and cakes, and Types of flour
is one of the most important ingredients in patisserie, if not l White flour contains 72–85 per cent of the whole grain
the most important. (the endosperm only).
l Wholemeal flour contains 100 per cent of the whole
There is a great variety of high-quality flours made from
grain.
cereals, nuts or legumes, such as chestnut flour, cornflour,
l Wheatmeal flour contains 85–95 per cent of the whole
and so on. They have been used in patisserie, baking, dessert
grain.
cuisine and savoury cuisine in all countries throughout
l High-ratio or patent flour contains 40 per cent of the
history. The most commonly used and most versatile flour,
whole grain.
particularly in Western cuisine, is wheat flour.
l Self-raising flour is white flour that has had baking
powder (usually bicarbonate of soda and tartaric acid)
Wheat flour added to it.
Wheat flour is composed of starch, gluten, sugar, fats, water l Semolina is granulated hard flour prepared from the
and minerals. central part of the wheat grain. White or wholemeal
l Starch is the main component.
semolina is available.
l Gluten is also a significant element. Elastic and
impermeable, it is the gluten that makes wheat flour the
most common flour used in bread making.
Storing flour
Flour is a particularly delicate living material so it must be
l The quantity of sugar in wheat is very small but it plays
used and stored carefully. It must always be in the best
a very important role in fermentation.
condition, which is why storing large quantities is not
l Wheat contains a maximum of only 16 per cent water,
recommended.
but its presence is important.
l The mineral matter (ash), which is found mainly in It must be kept in a clean, well-organised, disinfected and
the husk of the wheat grain and not in the kernel, aerated storeroom. It must never be stored in warm and
determines the purity and quality of the flour. humid places.
Wheat goes through several distinct processes from the ear
to the final product, flour. These are usually carried out in Fats
modern industrial plants, where wheat is subjected to the Pastry goods may be made from various types of fat, either
various treatments and phases necessary for the production a single named fat or a combination. Examples of fats are
of different types of flour. These arrive in perfect condition butter, margarine, shortening and lard.
at our workplaces to be made into items such as sponge
cakes, yeast dough, puff pastries, biscuits, pastries and Butter
much more.
Butter brings smoothness, rich perfumes and aromas, and
impeccable textures to pastry items. Butter is an emulsion
The production of flour – the perfect interaction of water and fat. It is composed of
White flour is made up almost entirely of the part of the wheat a minimum of 82 per cent fat, a maximum of 16 per cent
grain known as the endosperm, which contains starch and water and 2 per cent dry extracts.
438
Here are some important facts about butter: Fondant is a cooked mixture of sugar and glucose which,
l Butter is the most complete fat. when heated, can be coloured and flavoured, and used for
l It is a very delicate ingredient that can quickly spoil if a decorating cakes, buns, gâteaux and petits fours. Fondant is
series of basic rules are not followed in its use. generally bought ready-made.
l It absorbs odours very easily, so it should be kept well
covered and should always be stored far from anything Inverted sugar
that produces strong odours. When sucrose is broken down with water, in a chemical
l When kept at 15 °C, butter is stable and retains all its process called hydrolysis, it separates into the two types
properties: finesse, aroma and creaminess. of sugar that make it: fructose and glucose. Sugar that has
l It should not be kept too long: it is always better to been treated in this way is called inverted sugar and is, after
work with fresh butter. sucrose, one of the most commonly used sugars in the
l Good-quality butter has a stable texture, pleasing taste, catering profession, thanks to its sweetening properties.
fresh odour, homogenous (even) colour and, most
importantly, it melts perfectly in the mouth. Inverted sugar is used because:
l It improves the aroma of products.
l It softens preparations such as cookies and petits fours,
l It improves the texture of doughs.
and keeps products like sponge cakes soft and moist.
l It prevents the dehydration of frozen products.
l Butter enhances flavour – as in brioches, for example.
l It reduces or stops crystallisation in ice cream making,
l The melting point of butter is between 30 °C and 35 °C.
improves smoothness and lowers its freezing point.
Margarine
Margarine is often made from a blend of oils that have been
Glucose
hardened or hydrogenated (with the addition of hydrogen Glucose takes on various forms:
l the characteristics of a viscous syrup, called crystal
gas). Margarine may contain up to 10 per cent butterfat.
glucose
Cake margarine is a blend of hydrogenated oils to which l its natural state, in fruit and honey
an emulsifying agent is added that helps combine water l a dehydrated white paste (used mainly in the
and fat. Cake margarine may contain up to 10 per cent commercial food industry, but also used in catering).
butterfat.
Glucose syrup:
Pastry margarine is used for puff pastry. It is a hard plastic l is a transparent, viscous paste
or waxy fat that is suitable for layering. l prevents the crystallisation of boiled sugars, jams and
preserves
Shortening l delays the drying of a product
Shortening is the term for some other fats used in pastry l aids consistency and creaminess in ice cream and the
making. It is made from oils and is 100 per cent fat. Examples fillings of chocolate bonbons
of shortening include hydrogenated lard and rendered l prevents the crystallisation of ice cream.
pork fat.
Honey
Sugar Honey is the oldest known form of sugar. It is a very sweet,
viscous syrup produced when bees extract nectar from
Sugar (or sucrose) is extracted from sugar beet or sugar cane.
flowers. It is 30 per cent sweeter than sucrose and generally
The juice is crystallised by a complicated manufacturing
has is light golden-brown appearance, although the colour
process and then refined and sieved into several grades,
varies depending on the species of bee, the flower from
such as granulated, caster or icing sugars. Syrup and treacle
which the nectar is collected and the type of honey this
are also produced as by-products during the production of
produces.
refined sugar.
Honey lowers the freezing point of ice cream. It can also
Loaf or cube sugar is obtained by pressing the crystals
be used like inverted sugar, but it is important to take into
together while they are slightly wet, drying them in blocks,
account that, unlike inverted sugar, honey will give its flavour
and then cutting the blocks into squares.
to the preparation. Also, it is inadequate for preparations that
require long storage, since honey recrystallises over time.
439
Isomalt products such as scones, for example. Sour milk can also
Isomalt is a sweetener that has been used by the food be added along with the baking soda as a separate ‘natural’
manufacturing industry for many years in the production component of the leavening.
of confectionery (sweets and gums). It has properties Baking powder contains baking soda and an acid in the
distinct from those of the sweeteners already mentioned. form of salt crystals that dissolve in water. Ground dry starch
It is produced through the hydrolysis of sugar followed is also added to prevent premature reactions in humid air
by hydrogenation (the addition of hydrogen). Produced by absorbing moisture, and to dilute the powder.
through these industrial processes, this sugar is perfect for
Most baking powders are ‘double acting’ – that is, they
confectionery and chewing gum production, but it is now
produce an initial set of gas bubbles when the powder is
being used far more widely in the professional kitchen.
mixed into the batter and then a second set during the
One of its most notable characteristics is that it can melt baking process. The first and smaller reaction is necessary
without the addition of water or another liquid. This is a to form many small gas bubbles in the batter or dough; the
very interesting property for making artistic decorations in second is necessary to expand these bubbles to form the
cooked sugar. Its appearance is like that of confectioners’ final light texture. This second reaction must happen late
sugar: a glossy powder. Its sweetening strength is half that enough in the baking for the surrounding materials to have
of sucrose and it is much less soluble than sugar, which set, preventing the bubbles from escaping and the product
means that it melts less easily in the mouth. from collapsing.
Isomalt’s main advance in professional patisserie work over Baking powder is made from alkali (bicarbonate of soda)
the past few years has been as a replacement for normal plus acid (cream of tartar – potassium hydrogen tartrate).
sugar or sucrose when making sugar decorations, blown Commercial baking powders differ mainly in their
sugar, pulled sugar or spun sugar. Isomalt is not affected by proportions of the acid salts. Cream of tartar is not normally
air humidity, so sugar pieces will keep for longer. used due to its high cost, so calcium phosphate and
glucono delta-lactone are now commonly used in its place.
Raising agents
Raising agents are added to cake and bread mixtures to Water vapour
give lightness to the product, because they produce gases Water vapour is produced during the baking process from
that expand when heated. The gases produced are air, the liquid content used in the mixing. Water vapour has
carbon dioxide or water vapour. These gases are introduced approximately 1,600 times the volume of the original water,
before baking or are produced by substances added to the but its raising power is slower than that of a gas. This method
mixture before baking. When the product is cooked, the is used in the production of choux pastry, puff pastry, rough
gases expand. These gases are trapped in the gluten of the puff and flaky pastry, as well as batter products.
wheat flour. The product rises and sets on further heating
and cooking because of the pressure of the gluten. Using raising agents
l Always buy a reliable brand of baking powder.
Baking powder l Store in a dry place in an airtight tin.
Chemical raising agents cause a reaction between certain l Do not store for long periods of time: baking powder
acidic and alkaline compounds, which produce carbon loses some of its residual carbon dioxide over time and
dioxide. The alkaline component is almost always sodium therefore will not be as effective.
bicarbonate or sodium acid carbonate, commonly known l Check the recipe carefully, making sure that the correct
as baking soda. It is ideal because it is cheap to produce, preparation for the type of mixture is used, otherwise,
easily purified, non-toxic and naturally tasteless. Potassium under- or over-rising may result.
bicarbonate is available for those on low-sodium diets, but l Sieve the raising agent with the flour and/or dry
this compound tends to absorb moisture, react prematurely ingredients to give an even mix, and thus an even
and give a bitter flavour. reaction.
l Distribute moisture evenly into the mixture to ensure
Baking powder may be used without the addition of acid if even action of the raising agent.
the dough or batter is already acidic enough to react with it l If a large proportion of raising agent has been added to a
to produce carbon dioxide. Yoghurt and sour milk contain mixture, and is not to be cooked immediately, keep it in a
lactic acid and often are used in place of water or milk in cool place to avoid too much reaction before baking.
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Too much raising agent causes: Milk is homogenised to disperse the fat evenly, since the fat
l over-risen products that may collapse, giving a sunken has a tendency to rise to the surface (see ‘Cream’, below).
effect
Here are some useful facts about milk.
l a coarse texture
l Pasteurised milk has a better taste and aroma than UHT
l poor colour and flavour
milk.
l fruit sinking to the bottom of the cake
l Milk is useful for developing flavour in sauces and
l a bitter taste.
creams, due to its lactic fermentation.
Insufficient raising agent causes: l Milk contributes to colour as well as to the development
l lack of volume of texture and aroma in doughs.
l insufficient lift l Because of its lactic ferments, it helps in the maturation
l close texture of doughs and creams.
l shrinkage. l Milk is much more fragile than cream. In recipes, adding
it in certain proportions is advisable for a much more
Eggs subtle and delicate final product.
l Other types of milk, such as sheep and goat’s milk, can
Eggs are an important and versatile ingredient in pastry be very interesting to use in desserts.
work. Hens’ eggs are graded in four sizes – small, medium,
large and very large (see Chapter 6). For the recipes in this
chapter, use medium-sized eggs (approximately 50 g), Cream
unless otherwise stated. Cream is the concentrated milk fat that is skimmed off the
top of the milk when it has been left to sit. A film forms on
Eggs are used in pastry work because of their binding,
the surface because of the difference in density between
emulsifying and coating properties. Eggs also add both
fat and liquid. This process is speeded up mechanically in
protein and fat, thus improving the nutritional value and
large industries by heating and using centrifuges. Cream
flavour of the product.
is used in many recipes because of its great versatility and
capabilities.
Milk Cream should contain at least 18 per cent butterfat. Cream
Full-cream, skimmed or semi-skimmed milk can be used for for whipping must contain more than 30 per cent butterfat.
the desserts in this chapter. Commercially frozen cream is available in slabs, typically
Milk comes in many forms and is a basic element of the ranging from 2 kg to 10 kg. Types, packaging, storage and
diet for many people throughout the world. Milk from cows uses of cream are listed in Table 14.1.
is most commonly used in the production of patisserie Whipping and double cream may be whipped to make
products, although other types of milk are being used more them lighter and to increase volume. Cream will whip more
frequently due to their nutritional properties and reduced easily if it is kept at refrigeration temperature. Indeed, all
allergenic risk (goat’s milk ice cream, for example). cream products must be kept in the refrigerator for health
Milk consists of water, sugar and fat (with a minimum fat and safety reasons. They should be handled with care and,
content of 3.5 per cent). It is essential in many products, from as they will absorb odour, they should never be stored near
creams, ice creams, yeast doughs, mousses and custards to onions or other strong-smelling foods.
ganaches, cookies, tuiles and muffins. A yeast dough will As with milk, there are two main methods for conserving
change considerably in texture, taste and colour if it is made cream:
with milk instead of water. l Pasteurisation – the cream is heated to between
Milk has a slightly sweet taste and little odour. Two distinct 85 °C and 90 °C for a few seconds then cooled quickly;
processes are used to conserve it: this cream retains all its flavour properties.
l Pasteurisation – the milk is heated to between 73 °C l Sterilisation (UHT) – this consists of heating the
and 85 °C for a few seconds, then cooled quickly to 4 °C. cream to between 140 °C and 150 °C for two seconds;
l Sterilisation (UHT) – the milk is heated to between cream treated this way loses some of its flavour
140 °C and 150 °C for two seconds, then cooled quickly. properties, but it keeps for longer.
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Always use pasteurised cream when possible, for example l Cream adds texture.
in the restaurant when desserts are made for immediate l Once cream is boiled and mixed or infused with other
consumption. ingredients to add flavour, it will whip again if first left to
cool completely (when preparing a chocolate Chantilly,
Here are some useful facts about cream.
for example).
l Cream whips with the addition of air, thanks to its fat
l To whip cream well, it must be cold (around 4 °C).
content. This retains the air bubbles formed during
l Cream can be infused with other flavours when it is hot
beating.
or cold. The flavour of cream will develop if left to infuse
l Understand how to use fresh cream; remember that it is
prior to preparation.
easily over-whipped.
442
range of frozen products suitable to serve as sweets and pastry. This is easiest to do if the fat is ‘plastic’ (i.e. at
afternoon tea pastries. These include fruit pies, flans, room temperature). Always cream the fat and sugar well
gâteaux and charlottes. The vast majority are ready to serve before adding the liquid.
once defrosted, but very often they require a little more l The flour batter method: for example, slab cakes.
decorative finish. The availability of such products gives l Lamination: for example, puff pastry.
the caterer the advantage of further labour cost reductions, l Boiling: for example, choux pastry.
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l A hot clear gel produced from a pectin source, using a fine sugar dredger or sieve.
obtainable commercially, for finishing flans and tartlets; l Piping: using fresh cream, chocolate or fondant, for
always use while still hot. A cold gel is exactly the same example.
except that it is used cold. The gel keeps a sheen on the l Filling: with fruit, cream, pastry cream, etc. Avoid
goods and keeps out oxygen, which might otherwise overfilling as this can give the product a clumsy
cause discoloration. appearance.
l Apricot glaze, produced from apricot jam, acts in the
same way as hot gels. Piping fresh cream
l Egg wash, applied prior to baking, produces a rich glaze l Piping fresh cream is a skill and, like all other skills, it
during the cooking process. takes practice to become proficient. The finished item
l Icing sugar dusted on the surface of the product should look attractive, simple, clean and tidy.
caramelises in the oven or under the grill. l All piping bags should be sterilised after each use,
l Fondant gives a rich sugar glaze, which may be as these may well be a source of contamination;
flavoured and/or coloured. alternatively use a disposable piping bag.
l Water icing gives a transparent glaze, which may also be l Make sure that all the equipment you need for piping is
flavoured and/or coloured. hygienically cleaned before and after use to avoid cross-
contamination.
444
Test yourself
1 What is the ratio of fat to flour for:
a short pastry
b puff pastry
c sugar pastry?
2 How is the fat added to the flour in the production of choux pastry?
3 What type of fat is required for the production of suet paste?
4 What is meant by the term ‘lamination’?
5 Name five examples of products that can be produced using puff pastry.
6 Other than éclairs and profiteroles, name three products that are made using
choux paste.
7 Name one pastry product, eaten as a dessert, which would be unsuitable for a
vegetarian customer.
8 Name the faults associated with the production of short pastry.
9 What is the classic filling for a gâteau pithiviers?
10 Name three fillings that can be used in the production of sweet tarts.
445
Short pastry
1 Sieve the flour and salt. Add the 2 Start to rub the fat into the flour. 3 Continue to rub in.
butter in small pieces.
4 Stop rubbing in once the mixture 5 Make a well in the centre. Add 6 Work into a firm dough.
is crumbly and the lumps of butter water and start to mix it in.
are gone.
7 Knead into a ball. Handle as 8 Roll out the paste for use.
little and as lightly as possible.
Refrigerate until firm before rolling.
446
Different fats have different shortening properties. For Lard can be used in place of some or all of the fat
example, paste made with a high ratio of butter to other (the butter or cake margarine). Lard has excellent
fat will be harder to handle. shortening properties and would lend itself, in terms of
flavour, to savoury products, particularly meat-based
ones. However, many people view lard as an unhealthy
product as it is very high in saturated fat. It is also
unsuitable for anyone following a vegan or vegetarian
diet as it is an animal product.
Faults
Possible reasons for faults in short Soft–crumbly: Soggy:
pastry are detailed below. l too little water l too much water
l too much fat. l too cool an oven
Hard:
l baked for insufficient time.
l too much water Blistered:
l too little fat l too little water Shrunken:
l fat rubbed in insufficiently l water added unevenly l too much handling and rolling
l too much handling and rolling l fat not rubbed in evenly. l pastry stretched while handling.
l over-baking.
447
1 Lightly grease an appropriately sized flan ring or 7 Return to the oven at 160 °C and bake gently for
barquette, or tartlet moulds if making individual approximately 20 minutes or until nicely browned
portions. Line thinly with pastry. and the egg custard mix has set.
2 Prick the bottom of the pastry two or three times
with a fork to dock. Variation
3 Cook in a hot oven at 200 °C for 3–4 minutes The filling can be varied by using lightly fried lardons of
bacon (in place of the ham), chopped cooked onions
or until the pastry is lightly set. Reduce the oven
and chopped parsley.
temperature to 160 °C.
A variety of savoury flans can be made by using
4 Remove from the oven; press the pastry down if it imagination and experimenting with different
has tended to rise. combinations (for example, stilton and onion; salmon
5 Add the chopped ham and grated cheese. and dill; sliced sausage and tomato).
3 Fruit pie
448
1 Prepare the fruit, wash and place in a bowl. 9 Place the pie on a baking sheet and bake at
2 Add the sugar and water, and mix gently. (Place a 200 °C for 10 minutes; reduce the oven to 180 °C
clove in an apple pie.) and continue to bake for another 25–30 minutes.
If the pastry colours too quickly, cover it with a
3 Line an appropriately sized flan ring with two-
sheet of paper.
thirds of the pastry, leaving a third for the top.
10 Once cooked, allow to cool slightly before
4 Fill the lined ring with the fruit mixture.
removing the flan ring. Serve with custard, fresh
5 Dampen the edge of the pastry with a little water. cream or ice cream.
6 Roll out the reserved piece of pastry to cover the fruit.
7 Carefully lay the pastry on top of the fruit and Preparation of fruit for pies
firmly seal to the edge of the lined pastry. Cut off The pie may be filled with a single fruit or a combination
any surplus pastry. (This can be used to create such as blackberry and apple or damson and apple.
a lattice effect by running strips of pastry in l apples – peeled, quartered, cored, washed, cut in
diagonal lines across the pie – see picture.) slices
l cherries – stalks removed, stoned, washed
8 Brush the top of the pie with egg wash and l blackberries – stalks removed, washed
sprinkle with caster sugar. l gooseberries – stalks and tails removed, washed
l damsons – picked, stoned and washed
l rhubarb – leaves and root removed, tough strings
removed, cut into 2 cm pieces, washed.
4 Treacle tart
449
Sweet pastry
1 Measure out the sugar and cut the 2 Cream the butter and sugar 3 Add the beaten egg in stages,
butter into small chunks. together. thoroughly mixing each time.
4 Incorporate the flour and salt. 5 Press into a tray and leave to chill. 6 The paste will need to be rolled
out before use in any recipe.
450
Professional tip
The higher the percentage of butter, the shorter and
richer the paste will become. However, as the butter will
soften and melt during handling, the paste will become
softer and more difficult to work with. Therefore chilling
and light, quick handling are required when using a
sweet paste with a high butter content.
This also applies to the working environment. For example,
in a particularly warm kitchen, it will be more difficult to
work with a paste of this structure than in a cooler kitchen.
The butter in this recipe could be reduced from 125 g to
From left to right: short paste (recipe 1), rough puff paste
100 g to make handling easier.
(recipe 24) and sweet paste (recipe 5)
6 Flan cases
1 Allow 25 g flour per portion and prepare sugar 9 The rim can be left straight or moulded. Mould
pastry as per recipe 5. the edge with thumb and forefinger. Decorate
2 Grease a flan ring and baking sheet. either with pastry tweezers or with thumbs and
forefingers, squeezing the pastry neatly to form a
3 Roll the pastry out so that the circumference is
corrugated pattern.
2 cm larger than the flan ring. The pastry may
be rolled between cling film or greaseproof or
silicone paper. Video: lining a
flan
4 Place the flan ring on the baking sheet. http://bit.ly/
5 Carefully place the pastry on the flan ring by 17grHMP
rolling it loosely over the rolling pin, picking it up
and unrolling it over the flan ring.
6 Press the pastry into shape without stretching it, Baking blind
being careful to exclude any air. Some recipes call for the flan case to be baked blind,
7 Allow a 0.5 cm ridge of pastry on top of the flan ring. which means that it is baked before the filling is added. Line
the pastry case with cling film and fill with baking beans
8 Cut off the surplus paste by rolling the rolling pin (ceramic pie weights) or dried beans. Bake at 190 °C.
firmly across the top of the flan ring.
Place the pastry into the flan ring Firm the pastry into the bottom of the ring Bake blind, filled with beans, if the recipe requires
451
Ingredient 8 portions
5 Fill the pastry case with the custard to 0.5 cm
below the top. Place it carefully into the middle of
Sweet paste 250 g
the oven and bake for 30–40 minutes or until the
Egg yolks 9 custard appears to be set but not too firm.
Caster sugar 75 g
6 Remove from the oven and cover liberally
Whipping cream, gently warmed and infused with 2 500 ml with grated nutmeg. Allow to cool to room
sticks of cinnamon
temperature.
Nutmeg, freshly grated
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1998 kJ 482 kcal 39.0 g 22.0 g 27.0 g 15.8 g 6.4 g 0.6 g 0.2 g
452
Faults
Although this strawberry tart may appear to be fine at The second photo shows the importance of ensuring that
first glance, the husks of the strawberries are visible. It fillings are prepared and/or cooked properly. In this case,
would be better to present the strawberries with their tops the crème pâtissière has not been cooked sufficiently
pointing upwards or sliced and overlapping. or prepared accurately as the filling is not structured
sufficiently to support the fruit once the tart has been cut.
There is also quite a wide gap between the rows of
strawberries, showing the crème pâtissière underneath.
This should be avoided.
Professional tip
Brush the inside of the pastry case with melted
couverture before filling. This forms a barrier between
the pastry and the moisture in the filling.
Tartlets
1 Roll out pastry 3 mm thick.
2 Cut out rounds with a fluted cutter and place
them neatly in greased tartlet moulds. If soft fruit
(such as strawberries or raspberries) is being
used, the pastry should be cooked blind first.
3 After baking and filling (or filling and baking) with
pastry cream, dress neatly with fruit and glaze
the top.
Certain fruits (such as strawberries and raspberries)
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium are sometimes served in boat-shaped moulds
690 kJ 165 kcal 8.7 g 2.7 g 21.1 g 6.3 g 2.0 g 1.2 g 0.1 g (barquettes). The preparation is the same as for
tartlets. Tartlets and barquettes should be glazed and
served allowing one large or two small per portion.
453
9 Apple flan
1 Line a flan ring with sweet paste. Pierce the 5 Sprinkle a little sugar on the apple slices and bake
bottom several times with a fork. the flan at 200–220 °C for 30–40 minutes.
2 Pipe a layer of pastry cream into the bottom of 6 When the flan is almost cooked, remove the flan
the flan. ring carefully, return to the oven to complete the
3 Peel, quarter and wash the selected apple. cooking. Mask with hot apricot glaze or flan jelly.
4 Cut into neat thin slices and lay carefully on the
pastry cream, overlapping each slice. Ensure that
each slice points to the centre of the flan then no
difficulty should be encountered in joining up the
pattern neatly.
Pipe the filling neatly into the flan case Slice the apple very thinly for decoration Arrange the apple slices on top of the flan
454
10 Lemon tart
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1907 kJ 456 kcal 25.0 g 13.4 g 53.0 g 44.0 g 8.5 g 0.5 g 0.2 g
Variation
Limes may be used in place of lemons. If so, use the
zest and juice of five limes or use a mixture of lemons
Note and limes.
455
Ingredient 2 × 20 cm flan
rings
(16 portions)
Sweet paste flan cases 2
Granulated sugar 450 g
Lemons, grated zest 2
Fresh lemon juice 240 ml
Eggs, large 8
Large egg yolks 2
Unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 350 g
Meringue
Egg whites 6
Caster sugar 600 g
1 Place the sugar into a bowl and grate the zest of 4 At the first sign of boiling, remove from the heat.
lemon into it, rubbing together. Strain into a bowl and cool before filling the
2 Strain the lemon juice into a non-reactive pan. pastry cases.
Add the eggs, egg yolks, butter and zested sugar. 5 Make the meringue (see page 528). Pipe it on top
Whisk to combine. of the filled pie.
3 Place over a medium heat and whisk continuously 6 Colour in a hot oven at 220 °C.
for 3–5 minutes, until the mixture begins to thicken.
Ingredient 8 portions
Sweet paste 200 g
Apricot jam 25 g
Almond cream 350 g
Poached pears 4
Apricot glaze
Flaked almonds
Icing sugar
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1500 kJ 359 kcal 23.0 g 10.3 g 34.0 g 24.0 g 5.7 g 3.6 g 0.3 g
456
1 Line a buttered 20 cm flan ring with sweet paste. 5 Score across the pears and arrange on top of
Trim and dock. the flan.
2 Using the back of a spoon, spread a little apricot 6 Bake in the oven at 200 °C for 25–30 minutes.
jam over the base. 7 Allow to cool, then brush with apricot glaze.
3 Pipe in almond cream until the flan case is two- 8 Sprinkle flaked almonds around the edge and
thirds full. dust with icing sugar.
4 Dry the poached pears. Cut them in half and
remove the cores and string.
13 Bakewell tart
457
14 Mince pies
6 Cover the mincemeat with pastry and seal the 2 Seal in jars and use as required.
edges. Brush with egg wash.
Variation
7 Bake at 210 °C for approximately 20 minutes.
Short or puff pastry may also be used. Various toppings
8 Sprinkle with icing sugar and serve warm. can also be added, such as crumble mixture or flaked
Accompany with a suitable sauce, such as custard, almonds and an apricot glaze.
brandy sauce or brandy cream.
458
Choux pastry
1 Cut the butter into cubes and melt 2 Add the flour. 3 When the panada is ready, it will
them in the water. start to come away from the sides.
459
4 Add egg until the mixture is the 5 Pipe the paste into the shape 6 A selection of shapes in raw choux
right consistency – it should drop required – these rings could be paste.
from a spoon under its own weight. used for Paris-Brest (recipe 19).
Ingredient Makes 10
buns
Choux paste 150 ml
Egg wash
Chopped almonds and/or nib sugar 35 g
Whipped cream/Chantilly cream 300 ml
Icing sugar, to serve
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
752 kJ 182 kcal 16.4 g 8.5 g 6.7 g 3.6 g 2.2 g 0.2 g 0.0 g
1 Place the choux paste into a piping bag with a 5 Allow to cool. Make a hole in the base of
1 cm plain tube. each bun.
2 Pipe pieces the size of a walnut on to a lightly 6 Fill with sweetened, vanilla-flavoured whipped
greased, dampened baking sheet. cream (Chantilly cream) using a piping bag and
3 Using a wet finger, gently press down any spikes small tube.
or peaks of paste to make round bulbs of paste, 7 Sprinkle with icing sugar and serve with
then egg wash. cream and fresh fruit such as strawberries or
4 Bake at 200–220 °C for about 30 minutes. raspberries.
460
Ingredient 10 portions
Choux paste 200 ml
Chocolate sauce (see page 560) 250 ml
Chantilly cream 250 ml
Icing sugar, to serve
18 Chocolate éclairs
Ingredient 12 portions
Choux paste 200 ml
Whipped cream/Chantilly cream 250 ml
Fondant 100 g
Chocolate couverture 25 g
Variations
For coffee éclairs (éclairs au café) add a few drops
of coffee extract to the fondant instead of chocolate;
coffee éclairs may also be filled with pastry cream (see
page 476) flavoured with coffee.
461
1 Place the choux paste into a piping bag with a 6 Warm the fondant, add the finely cut chocolate,
1 cm plain tube. allow to melt slowly, adjusting the consistency
2 Pipe into 8 cm lengths on to a lightly greased, with a little sugar and water syrup if necessary.
dampened baking sheet. Do not overheat or the fondant will lose its shine.
3 Bake at 200–220 °C for about 30 minutes. 7 Glaze the éclairs by dipping them in the fondant;
remove the surplus with the finger. Allow to set.
4 Allow to cool. Slit down one side, with a sharp knife.
Traditionally, chocolate éclairs were filled with chocolate
5 Fill with Chantilly cream (or whipped cream) using pastry cream.
a piping bag and small tube. The continental
fashion is to fill with pastry cream.
Pierce the éclair Pipe in the filling Dip the éclair in fondant; wipe the edges to
give a neat finish
19 Gâteau Paris-Brest
Praline
1 Place the nuts on a baking sheet and toast until
evenly coloured.
2 Place the sugar in a large, heavy, stainless steel
saucepan. Set the pan over a low heat and allow
the sugar to caramelise. Do not over-stir, but do
not allow the sugar to burn.
3 When the sugar is lightly caramelised and
reaches a temperature of 170 °C, remove from the
heat and stir in the nuts.
4 Immediately deposit the mixture on a non-stick
silicone mat. Place another mat over the top and
Ingredient 8 portions roll as thin as possible.
Choux paste 5 Allow to cool completely. Break up and store in an
Crème diplomate (see page 476) 800 ml airtight container.
For the praline
Flaked almonds, hazelnuts and pecans (any combination) 375 g Paris-Brest
Granulated sugar 500 g 1 Pipe choux paste (recipe 15) into rings and bake.
2 Slice each ring in half. Fill with a mixture of crème
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
3,180 kJ 761 kcal 47.4 g 14.7 g 74.1 g 69.9 g 14.1 g 0.2 g diplomate or pastry cream and praline.
462
Ingredient Makes 8 1 Using two spoons of the same size, shape the
portions paste into quenelles.
Choux paste 125 ml 2 Place on to strips of lightly greased, greaseproof
Icing sugar or caster sugar, to serve paper.
Apricot sauce, to serve 125 ml 3 Lower the pieces into moderately hot deep fat at
170 °C. Allow to cook gently for 10–15 minutes.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre 4 Drain well and roll in the caster sugar. The sugar
344 kJ 82 kcal 3.9 g 1.3 g 11.5 g 8.8 g 0.9 g 0.2 g
can be flavoured at this point (ground cinnamon is
often used at this stage).
5 Serve with a sauceboat of hot fruit-based sauce.
Shape the fritter with two spoons Lower the fritters into hot oil on a strip of Lift them out with a spider
greaseproof paper
463
Suet pastry
21 Suet paste
Professional tip
Self-raising flour already contains baking powder so this
element could be reduced in the recipe if using self-
raising flour.
Vegetarian suet is also available to enable products to
be meat-free.
Ingredient 400 g 1 kg
Flour (soft) or self-raising flour 200 g 500 g Faults
Baking powder 10 g 25 g Heavy and soggy paste:
Salt Pinch Large pinch l cooking temperature may have been too low.
10 individual
puddings or 1
large pudding
Suet paste (see recipe 21) 300 g
Fruit 1 kg
Sugar 200 g
Water 60 ml
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
975 kJ 231 kcal 6.3 g 3.1 g 44.0 g 33.0 g 1.8 g 2.6 g 0.1 g
464
1 Grease a basin or individual moulds. 7 Cover with greased greaseproof paper, a pudding
2 Line the moulds, using three-quarters of the paste. cloth or foil.
3 Add the prepared and washed fruit and the sugar. 8 Steam for about 1½ hours (large basin) or
(Add between one and two cloves in an apple 40 minutes (individual moulds).
pudding.) Serve with custard.
5 Add water. Moisten the edge of the paste.
Variation
6 Cover with the remaining quarter of the paste and
Steamed fruit puddings can be made with apple, apple
seal firmly. and blackberry, rhubarb, rhubarb and apple, and so on.
Puff pastry
2 Rub in the 60 g of pastry butter/pastry margarine. 12 Roll out to 60 cm × 20 cm, fold both the ends to
the centre, and fold in half again to form a square.
3 Make a well in the centre.
This is one double turn.
4 Add the cold water and lemon juice or acid (to
13 Allow to rest in a cool place for 20 minutes.
make the gluten more elastic), and knead well into
a smooth dough in the shape of a ball. 14 Half-turn the paste to the right or the left.
5 Relax the dough in a cool place for 30 minutes. 15 Give one more double turn and allow to rest for
20 minutes.
6 Cut a cross halfway through the dough and pull
out the corners to form a star shape. 16 Give two more double turns, allowing to rest
between each.
7 Roll out the points of the star square, leaving the
centre thick. 17 Allow to rest before using.
465
Rub the first batch of butter into the flour Mix in the water and lemon juice Knead into a smooth dough
Roll the dough out into a cross shape Knead the remaining butter in a plastic bag, Fold over each flap
then place it on the centre of the dough
Roll into a neat rectangle, then take each end Fold again from the top end of the paste to These photos have shown one double turn.
and fold to meet in the centre the bottom When resting the turned and folded paste,
leave an indented finger mark on the surface
to show the number of turns completed
466
Ingredient 475 g 1.2 kg 4 Add the liquid and mix to a dough. The dough
should be fairly tight at this stage.
Flour (strong) 200 g 500 g
5 Turn on to a floured table and roll into an oblong
Salt 1 large pinch 2 large pinches
strip, about 30 × 10 cm, keeping the sides square.
Butter or block/cake margarine 150 g 375 g
(lightly chilled) 6 Give one double turn (as for puff pastry).
Water, ice-cold 125 ml 300 ml 7 Allow to rest in a cool place, covered with cloth or
Lemon juice, ascorbic or tartaric acid 10 ml 25 ml plastic for 30 minutes.
8 Give three more double turns, resting between
1 Sieve the flour and salt. each. (Alternatively, give six single turns.) Allow to
2 Cut the fat into small pieces and lightly mix them rest before using.
into the flour without rubbing in.
3 Make a well in the centre. Professional tip
Each time you leave the paste to rest, gently make
finger indentations, one for each turn you have made.
467
Make a well in the centre of the flour and Mix to a fairly stiff dough Roll out and fold the ends to the middle
butter and add the liquid
Keep rolling, folding and turning The finished paste, ready to rest and then use
Professional tip
Bouchées are filled with a variety of savoury fillings
and are served hot or cold. They may also be filled with
creams or curds as a pastry.
Ingredient Makes 12
bouchées/6 Larger versions are known as vol-au-vents. They may
vol-au-vents be produced in one-, two-, four- or six-portion sizes; a
Puff paste 200 g single-sized vol-au-vent would be approximately twice
the size of a bouchée. When preparing one- and two-
Egg wash
portion sized vol-au-vents, the method for bouchées
may be followed. When preparing larger vol-au-vents, it
1 Roll out the pastry to approximately 5 mm thick. is advisable to have two layers of puff pastry, each 5 mm
2 Cut out with a round, fluted cutter of the size thick, sealed together with egg wash. One layer should
be a plain round, and the other of the same diameter
required.
with a circle cut out of the centre.
3 Place on a greased, dampened baking sheet;
egg wash.
468
27 Sausage rolls
Ingredient Makes 12 ×
8 cm rolls
Puff paste 200 g
Sausage meat 400 g
Egg wash
469
28 Gâteau pithiviers
1 Divide the paste into four equal pieces. Roll out each
piece in a circle with a 22 cm diameter, 4 mm thick.
2 Rest in the fridge between sheets of cling film,
preferably overnight.
3 Lightly butter two baking trays and splash with water.
Lay one circle of paste on to each tray and dock them.
4 Mark a 16 cm diameter circle in the centre of each.
5 Beat the pastry cream, if desired, and mix it with
the frangipane.
6 Using a plain nozzle, pipe the cream over the
inner circles, making them slightly domed.
7 Egg wash the outer edges of the paste. Lay one
Ingredient 2 × 22cm
gâteaux of the remaining pieces over the top of each one,
smooth over and press down hard.
Puff paste 1 kg
8 Mark the edges with a round cutter. Cut out a
Pastry cream 60 g
scallop pattern with a knife or use a cut piping
Frangipane 600 g
nozzle as shown in the photo sequence.
Egg wash (yolks only)
9 Egg wash twice. Mark the top of both with a
Granulated sugar spiral pattern.
10 Bake at 220 °C for 10 minutes. Remove from the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1453 kJ 349 kcal 25.8 g 9.4 g 25.6 g 10.4 g 5.3 g 1.7 g 0.4 g oven and sprinkle with granulated sugar. Turn the
For 1⁄10 of one gâteau. oven down to 190 °C and bake for a further 20 to
25 minutes.
11 Glaze under a salamander.
Adding the filling to the rolled base Trimming the edge Marking the top
470
29 Palmiers
Ingredient Note
Puff paste (see page 465)
Palmiers are usually made from leftover or off-cuts of
Caster sugar puff pastry. As a more biscuit-like property is sought,
Egg wash
previously rolled pastry can be utilised because the
rise required is not as much as in products such as
bouchées and vol-au-vents.
1 Roll out puff pastry into a square 3 mm thick.
2 Sprinkle liberally with caster sugar on both sides
and roll into the pastry. Variation
3 Fold into three from each end so as to meet in the Puff pastry trimmings are suitable for this recipe.
Palmiers may be made in a wide variety of sizes. Two
middle; brush with egg wash and fold in two.
joined together with a little whipped cream may be
4 Cut into strips approximately 2 cm thick; dip one served as a pastry or small ones for petits fours. They
side in caster sugar. may be sandwiched together with soft fruit, whipped
cream and/or ice cream and served as a sweet.
5 Place on a greased baking sheet, sugared
side down, leaving a space of at least 2 cm
between each.
6 Bake in a very hot oven for about 10 minutes.
7 Turn with a palette knife, cook on the other side
until brown and the sugar is caramelised.
471
30 Pear jalousie
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2013 kJ 479 kcal 22.0 g 8.2 g 69.0 g 49.0 g 5.8 g 1.1 g 0.4 g
472
Decorate by feather icing: 6 Allow to set and trim the edges neatly.
1 Warm the fondant to 37 °C (warm to the touch) 7 Cut into even portions with a sharp, thin-bladed
and correct the consistency with sugar syrup if knife; dip into hot water and wipe clean after
necessary. each cut.
2 Pour the fondant over the mille-feuilles in an 8 For a traditional finish, crush the pastry trimmings
even coat. and use them to coat the sides.
3 Immediately pipe the melted chocolate over the
fondant in strips, 0.5 cm apart. Variation
4 With the back of a small knife, wiping after each Whipped fresh cream may be used as an alternative to
pastry cream.
stroke, mark down the slice at 2 cm intervals.
The pastry cream or whipped cream may also be
5 Quickly turn the slice around and repeat in the same
flavoured with an orange liqueur if desired.
direction with strokes in between the previous ones.
Pipe cream between layers of pastry Ice the top with fondant Decorate with chocolate
33 Cream horns
Ingredient Makes 16
Puff paste 250 g
Egg wash
Icing sugar, to sprinkle
Jam 50 g
Caster sugar 50 g
Vanilla pod/vanilla extract Seeds from 1
pod/a few drops
Cream 500 ml
1 Roll out the pastry to 2 mm thick, 30 cm long. 8 Place a little jam in the bottom of each.
2 Cut into 1.5 cm-wide strips. Moisten on one side. 9 Add the sugar and vanilla to the cream and whip
3 Wind the strips carefully round lightly greased until firm peaks form.
cream horn moulds, starting at the point and 10 Place in a piping bag with a star tube and pipe a
carefully overlapping each round slightly. neat rose into each horn.
4 Brush with egg wash on one side and place on a
greased baking sheet. Variation
5 Bake at 220 °C for about 20 minutes. These may also be partially filled with pastry cream, to which
various flavourings or fruit may be added. For example:
6 Sprinkle with icing sugar and return to a hot oven l praline l raspberries
for a few seconds to glaze. l chocolate l strawberries
l coffee l mango
7 Remove carefully from the moulds and allow to cool.
l lemon l orange segments.
474
34 Eccles cakes
Ingredient 12 cakes
Puff paste or rough puff paste 300 g
Egg white, to brush
1 Roll out the pastry 2 mm thick. 5 Brush the top with egg white and dip into caster
2 Cut into rounds 10–12 cm diameter. Damp the edges. sugar.
3 Mix together all the ingredients for the filling and place 6 Place on a greased baking sheet.
1 tbsp of the mixture in the centre of each round. 7 Cut two or three incisions with a knife so as to
4 Fold the edges over to the centre and completely show the filling.
seal in the mixture. 8 Bake at 220 °C for 15–20 minutes.
Ingredient Makes 12
Puff paste 300 g
Dry, sweetened apple purée 250 g
Egg white, to brush
Caster sugar, to coat
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
353 kJ 84 kcal 4.4 g 2.0 g 10.4 g 4.4 g 1.5 g 0.1 g 0.0 g
475
Fillings
476
37 Chantilly cream
38 Buttercream
Ingredient 350 g
Icing sugar 150 g
Butter 200 g
Variation
l Rum buttercream – add rum to flavour and blend in.
l Chocolate buttercream – add melted chocolate,
sweetened or unsweetened according to taste.
477
39 Boiled buttercream
Ingredient 750 ml
Eggs 2
Icing sugar 50 g
Granulated sugar or cube sugar 300 g
Water 100 g
Glucose 50 g
Unsalted butter 400 g
Variation
Buttercream may be flavoured with numerous flavours
and combinations of flavours, for example:
l chocolate and rum
l whisky and orange
l strawberry and vanilla
l lemon and lime
l apricot and passion fruit
l brandy and praline
l coffee and hazelnut.
1 Whisk the eggs. 2 Add the boiling sugar and water. 3 Add the butter.
478
Ingredient 8 portions
Butter 100 g
Caster sugar 100 g
Eggs 2
Ground almonds 100 g
Flour 10 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
997 kJ 240 kcal 18.5 g 7.4 g 15.0 g 13.7 g 4.4 g 1.7 g 0.2 g
Variation
Try adding lemon zest or vanilla seeds to the recipe.
Cut the butter into small pieces and add to Cream the butter and sugar together Beat in the eggs before adding to the flour
the sugar
479
41 Ganache
42 Italian meringue
Boil the sugar Combine with the beaten egg whites The mixture will stand up in stiff peaks when
it is ready
43 Swiss meringue
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
426 kJ 100 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 24.0 g 24.0 g 2.1 g 0.0 g 0.0 g
481
44 Apple purée
Ingredient 400 g 1 kg
Cooking apples 400 g 1 kg
Butter or margarine 10 g 25 g
Sugar 50 g 125 g
45 Stock syrup
Professional tip
The glucose helps to prevent crystallising.
482
The base ingredients for making cakes, biscuits and scones Blend together
Stage 1 Fat and caster sugar
are principally the same as those discussed in Chapter 14: (creaming)
flour, fat, sugar, raising agents, eggs and cream. However,
there is an endless list of possibilities in terms of additional
ingredients that could form part of the finished product, Stage 2 Colours, essences, spice or flavours Add
from chocolate, fondants, fruits and fruit products, through
to nuts and pralines.
Beaten, liquid egg
Stage 3 Add gradually
Cakes
(A little flour can be added to stabilise
the mixture, if necessary)
For the sugar batter method, the fat (cake margarine, butter
or shortening) is blended in a machine with caster sugar. The sugar batter method
This is the basic or principal stage; the other ingredients are
usually then added in the order shown in the chart.
483
Part added to
Blending method the mixing of the fat and flour to a crumbling texture. It is
essential that each stage of the batter is blended into the
The blending method is used for high-ratio cake mixtures.
next to produce a smooth batter, free from lumps. When
It uses high-ratio flour, specially produced so that it will
using mixing machines, it is important to remember to:
absorb more liquid. It also uses a high-ratio fat, made from
l blend initially on a slow speed
oil to which a quantity of emulsifying agent has been added,
l beat on a medium speed, using a paddle attachment.
enabling the fat to take up a greater quantity of liquid.
When blending, always clear the mix from the bottom of
High-ratio cakes contain more liquid and sugar, resulting in
the bowl to ensure that any first- or second-stage batter
a fine, stable crumb, extended shelf life, good eating and
does not remain in the bowl.
excellent freezing qualities. The principal or basic stage is
Stage 1
Flour and dry ingredients
Sieve together
Baking powder in cakes
(baking powder)
Baking powder may be made from one part sodium
bicarbonate to two parts cream of tartar. In commercial
Rub together to a
baking the powdered cream of tartar may be replaced by
Stage 2 Fat and flour
crumbly texture another acid product, such as acidulated calcium phosphate.
When used under the right conditions, with the addition of
liquid and heat, it produces carbon dioxide gas. As the acid
Stage 3 Sugar, dissolved in milk Add slowly
has a delayed action, only a small amount of gas is given off
when the liquid is added, and the majority is released when
the mixture is heated. Therefore, when cakes are mixed they
Stage 4 Beaten eggs Add do not lose the property of the baking powder if they are
not cooked right away.
The blending method
484
Possible reasons for faults in resulting in a much heavier sponge. If butter, margarine
or oil is added, it is important that this is added at about
cakes 36 °C, otherwise overheating will cause the fat or oil to act
If your cake has an uneven texture, this may be because: on the flour and create lumps, which are difficult – often
l the fat was insufficiently rubbed in impossible – to get rid of.
l there was too little liquid
Stabilisers are often added to sponges to prevent them from
l there was too much liquid.
collapsing. The most common are ethyl methyl cellulose
If your cake has a close texture, this may be because: and glycerol monostearate; these are added to the eggs
l there was too much fat and sugar at the beginning of the mixing.
l your hands were too hot when rubbing in
l the fat to flour ratio was incorrect.
Making sponge cakes
If your cake is dry, this may be because: l You should never add flour or ground dry ingredients
l there was too little liquid to a batter until the end because they impede the air
l the oven was too hot. absorption in the first beating stage.
If your cake has a bad shape, this may be because: l When making sponge cakes, always sift the dry
l there was too much liquid ingredients (flour, cocoa powder, ground nuts, and so
l the oven was too cool on) to avoid clumping.
l there was too much baking powder. l Mix the flour in as quickly and delicately as possible
– rough addition of dry ingredients acts like a weight
If the fruit in the cake has sunk, this may be because:
on the primary batter and can remove part of the air
l the fruit was wet
already absorbed.
l there was too much liquid
l Flours used in sponge cakes are low in gluten content.
l the oven was too cool.
In certain sponge cakes a proportion of the flour can
If the cake has cracked, this may be because: be left out and substituted with cornstarch. This yields a
l there was too little liquid softer and more aerated batter.
l there was too much baking powder. l The eggs used in sponge cake batters should be fresh
and at room temperature so that they take in air faster.
Batters and whisked l Adding separately beaten egg whites produces a
lighter, fluffier sponge cake.
sponges l Once sponge cake batters are beaten and poured into
moulds or baking trays, they should be baked as soon
Batters and sponges allow the production of a large
as possible. Delays will cause the batter to lose volume.
assortment of desserts and cakes. Basically, they are a mix
of eggs, sugar, flour and the air incorporated when these
are beaten. Certain other raw materials can be combined – Preparation methods
for example, almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts, chocolate, butter, There are several methods of making sponge cake:
fruit, ginger, anise, coffee and vanilla. l Foaming method – whisking eggs and sugar together
Sponge mixtures are produced from a foam of eggs and to the ribbon stage; folding in/cutting flour.
sugar. The eggs may be whole or separated. Examples of l Melting method – as with foaming, but adding
sponge products include gâteaux, sponge fingers and melted butter, margarine or oil to the mixture at
sponge cakes. the final stage. The fat content enriches the sponge,
improves the flavour, texture and crumb structure, and
The egg white traps the air bubbles. When eggs and sugar will extend shelf life.
are whisked together, they thicken until a maximum volume l Boiling method – sponges made by this method
is reached; then flour is carefully folded in by a method have a stable crumb texture that is easier to handle and
known as cutting in. This is the most difficult operation, crumbles less when cut than the standard basic sponge
as the flour must not be allowed to sink to the bottom containing fat (known as Genoise sponge). This method
of the bowl, otherwise it becomes lumpy and difficult to will produce a sponge that is suitable for dipping in
clear. However, the mixture must not be stirred too much fondant. The stages are shown in the chart.
as this will disturb the aeration and cause the air to escape,
485
486
l Always scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl when l Do not overwork the paste when mixing to combine.
creaming mixtures. The consequence of overworking the paste at this stage
l Always seek help if you are unsure. is that the gluten in the flour will strengthen and result
l Try to fill the oven space when baking by planning in the tightening of the paste. If this happens the paste
production carefully; this saves time, labour and money. will become very difficult to roll and is likely to shrink
l Never guess quantities. Time and temperature are during the baking process.
important factors; they too should not be guessed.
l The shape and size of goods will determine the baking Foaming
time and temperature: the wider and deeper the cake, This is where a foam is produced from egg whites, egg
the longer and more slowly it will need to bake. yolks or both. Sponge fingers are an example of a two-foam
l Where cake recipes contain a high proportion of sugar, mixture. Meringue is an example of a single-foam mixture
this will caramelise the surface quickly before the centre using egg whites. Great care must be taken not to over-mix
is cooked. Therefore cover the cake with sheets of the product.
silicone or dampened greaseproof paper and continue
to bake. Sugar batter method
l When cake tops are sprinkled with almonds or sugar,
Fat and sugar are mixed together to produce a light, aerated
the baking temperature needs to be lowered slightly to
cream. Beaten egg is added gradually. The dry ingredients
prevent over-colouring of the cake crust.
are then carefully folded in. Cats’ tongues and sablé biscuits
l When glycerine, glucose and inverted sugar, honey or
are made in this way.
treacle is added to cake mixtures, the oven temperature
should be lowered as these caramelise at a lower
temperature than sugar.
Flour batter method
Half the sieved flour is creamed with the fat. The eggs and
l Always work in a clean and hygienic way; remember the
sugar are beaten together before they are added to the
hygiene and safety rules, in particular the Food Safety
fat and flour mixture. Finally, the remainder of the flour is
and Hygiene Regulations, 2013.
folded in, together with any other dry ingredients. Some
l All cakes and sponges benefit from being allowed
types of cookies are made using this method.
to cool in their tins as this makes handling easier. If
sponges need to be cooled quickly, place a wire rack
over the top of the tin and invert, then remove the Blending method
lining paper and cool on a wire rack. This method requires the blending of all the ingredients
together to produce a smooth paste. It is used to make
487
Dusting, dredging and sprinkling Sponges, particularly low-fat or fatless sponges, will tend to
dry out very quickly if they are left out in open air. Once a
These techniques are used to give products a final design
sponge is cut, the exposed sponge is extremely prone to
or glaze during cooking, using sugar. Light dusting is usually
drying, which is one reason why sponge products are often
performed with icing sugar or neige décor, an icing sugar
soaked with a flavoured syrup to prevent drying as well as
product resistant to humidity but used in the same way,
adding flavour.
using a very fine sieve.
l Dusting: a light dusting, giving an even finish.
l Dredging: heavier dusting with sugar.
l Sprinkling: a very light sprinkle of sugar.
488
Steps to take when storing cakes, sponges, biscuits and l Cakes, sponges, biscuits and scones can be frozen
scones to extend their shelf life are as follows: very effectively. It is important that the product is
l Store dry products such as biscuits and scones for short- cool before freezing. The product should be sealed
term consumption in clean, air-tight plastic containers. to prevent contact with air, removing as much air as
Store the containers in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area possible in the packaging itself. The product should
that has been designated for such products. then be labelled, dated and frozen, ensuring that stock
l Store products such as fresh fruit and/or cream cakes is easily identifiable and stock rotation procedures are
or sponges for short-term consumption in refrigerators, followed. A blast-freezer can be used to freeze rapidly
ensuring that they are covered with cling film or stored before placing into a holding freezer. This can help to
in air-tight containers. This will help to prevent the retain many of the quality points of such products, for
products from drying during storage. It is important to example, moisture retention.
note that sugars dissolve over time when stored and this
can lead to sogginess in products and weeping of fruits.
Test yourself
1 How much flour is required to produce a four-egg Genoise sponge?
2 Describe what is meant by the ‘creaming’ method.
3 Describe the production of sponge fingers (biscuit à la cuillère).
4 What is the ratio of fat to flour for shortbread biscuits?
5 Describe tuile biscuits and what they are used for.
6 Describe the preparation and baking of:
a madeleines
b sablés à la poche (piped biscuits).
7 List the ingredients and method for a traditional Victoria sandwich.
8 Give three possible reasons why a sponge might have a tight, close texture.
9 List the two components, and their ratios, that make up baking powder.
10 What is the benefit of the presence of steam when baking cakes and
sponges?
489
1 Victoria sandwich
Ingredient 2 × 18 cm
cakes
Butter 250 g
Caster sugar 250 g
Soft flour 250 g
Baking powder 10 g
Eggs 5
Vanilla extract ½ tsp
Jam to fill
This is a classic afternoon tea cake named after Queen 5 Fold in the flour.
Victoria. Although traditionally made in two halves, a 6 Deposit into buttered and floured cake tins and
slimmer version can be made by using a single sponge level.
and splitting it.
7 Bake at 180 °C for approximately 15–20 minutes.
1 Cream the butter and sugar until soft and light.
8 Turn out on to a wire rack to cool.
2 Sieve the flour and baking powder twice.
9 Spread the bottom half with softened jam.
3 Mix together the eggs and vanilla extract.
10 Place on the top sponge and dust with icing
4 Beat the eggs gradually into the butter and sugar sugar.
mixture.
1 Beat the sugar and butter 2 Place the mixture into buttered 3 Flatten the top before baking.
together. cake tins.
Variation
In addition to jam, the sponge can be filled with either
butter icing or Chantilly cream.
The official Women’s Institute version specifies the cake is
filled with jam only and dusted with caster not icing sugar.
490
2 Genoise sponge
Ingredient Single sponge Double sponge 1 Whisk the eggs and sugar with a balloon whisk in
a bowl over a pan of hot water.
Eggs 4 10
2 Continue until the mixture is light and creamy and
Caster sugar 100 g 250 g
has doubled in bulk.
Flour (soft) 100 g 250 g
3 Remove from the heat and whisk until cold and
Butter, margarine or oil 50 g 125 g
thick (ribbon stage). Fold in the flour very gently.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
4 Take a small amount of the mixture and combine
5,978 kJ 1,423 kcal 65.8 g 25.6 g 182.8 g 106.6 g 36.5 g 3.6 g it with the melted butter. Then return this to the
Using hard margarine (4 portions). rest of the mixture and fold through.
5 Place in a greased, floured genoise mould.
Video: making a 6 Bake in a moderately hot oven, at 200–220 °C, for
genoise about 30 minutes.
http://bit.ly/
1znWjDj
1 Ingredients for Genoise sponge 2 Add the sugar to the eggs. 3 Whisk them together over boiling
and boiling water ready for use. water.
4 Carry on whisking as the mixture 5 When the mixture is ready, it will 6 Fold in the flour.
warms up. form ribbons and you can draw a
figure eight with it.
491
7 Add part of the flour mixture to the 8 Place the mixture into greased 9 After baking, turn the sponges out
butter. cake tins. to cool on a rack.
Ingredient 8 portions 1 Carefully slice the sponge cake into three equal
discs. Brush each with syrup.
Genoise sponge made with vanilla 1
2 Slowly whip the cream with the icing sugar to
Stock syrup (see page 482) 100 ml
achieve the correct consistency.
Raspberry jam 50 ml
3 Place the first piece of sponge on a cake board.
Whipping or double cream 500 ml
Soak with syrup. Spread with a layer of jam, then
Icing sugar 75 g a layer of cream. Scatter sliced strawberries on
Strawberries, sliced 1 punnet top.
4 Place the next piece of sponge on top. Repeat
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,975 kJ 473 kcal 28.4 g 11.1 g 53.0 g 39.7 g 4.5 g 0.9 g
the layers of syrup, cream and strawberries. Top
Based on 60 g of sponge per portion. with additional cream.
5 Place the final piece of sponge on top.
6 Coat the top and sides with cream. Chill.
7 Comb scrape the sides of the gâteau. Pipe 12
rosettes on top. Decorate with strawberries and
rounds of white chocolate.
492
4 Coffee gâteau
Professional tip
Mark the sponge by cutting a ‘v’ on the side before
splitting horizontally; when reassembling, line up the
marks so it goes back together exactly as it came apart.
Ingredient 1 × 16 cm Turn the sponge upside down before splitting so the
gâteau base becomes the top; this is the flattest surface and
Plain genoise sponge (recipe 2) 1 × 16 cm will give the best finish.
Stock syrup flavoured with rum 50 ml It is best practice to use a genoise that was made the
day before – fresh sponges do not cut well and are
Coffee buttercream 750 g
susceptible to falling apart.
Coffee marzipan 100 g
Fondant should never be heated above 30 °C, as the
Fondant 500 g shine will be lost.
Crystallised violets
Chocolate squares
Note
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
A good-quality coffee gâteau should have a moist
7881 kJ 1873 kcal 75.5 g 41.3 g 303.0 g 282.0 g 12.3 g 1.8 g 0.6 g
sponge and a good balance between sponge and
For ¼ of the sponge. filling (as a guide, the thickness of the sponge and the
1 Carefully split the sponge into three and line up depth of the buttercream should be equal). The coffee
flavour should not be in question, and the decoration
the three pieces.
should reflect and complement the coffee theme. (It is
2 Place the sponge base on a cake card and sometimes easy to get carried away, so it is good to
moisten with rum syrup. remember when decorating, ‘less is definitely more’.)
3 Pipe on an even layer of buttercream, no thicker
than that of the sponge. Variation
4 Place on the next layer of sponge, moisten with the Instead of enrobing with fondant, the top and sides can
syrup and repeat to give three layers of sponge and be covered with buttercream, the sides can be either
two of buttercream. Moisten the top with syrup. comb-scraped or masked with toasted nibbed/flaked
almonds or grated chocolate. The top can be piped with
5 Put in the fridge for 1–2 hours to firm up.
buttercream and/or decorated with coffee marzipan cut-
6 Work some coffee essence into the marzipan, out shapes.
roll out to 2 mm thick and lay over the gâteau, To add another texture, place a disc of meringue or
working the sides to prevent any creases. dacquoise on the bottom layer. Dacquoise is an Italian
7 Warm the fondant to blood heat, flavour with coffee meringue with the addition of toasted ground hazelnuts,
essence and adjust the consistency with syrup. spread or piped on to a silicone mat and baked at
180 °C for 15–20 minutes. Cut out the desired shape half
8 Place the gâteau on a wire rack with a tray way through cooking.
underneath to catch the fondant.
493
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1428 kJ 340 kcal 13.9 g 6.6 g 47.0 g 30.0 g 9.5 g 1.6 g 0.2 g
For ¼ of a sponge.
1 Whisk the eggs and sugar together to form a Make sure you have prepared all the equipment before
sabayon. you start.
2 Slowly fold in the flour and cocoa powder.
Variation
3 Take a small amount of the mixture and combine
it with the melted butter. Then return this to the For a lighter sponge, use 100 g of soft flour and 75 g of
cornflour.
rest of the mixture and fold through.
4 Place in a lined mould and bake at 180 °C for
15–20 minutes.
6 Chocolate gâteau
Ingredient Single gâteau Double gâteau
Chocolate genoise sponge (recipe 5)
Eggs 4 10
Chocolate pieces 50 g 125 g
Stock syrup (see page 482), as
required
Chocolate glaze
Buttercream
Unsalted butter 200 g 500 g
Icing sugar 150 g 375 g
Block chocolate (melted in a basin 50 g 125 g
in a bain-marie)
1 Cut the genoise into three slices crosswise. 4 Lightly spread each slice of genoise with
2 Prepare the buttercream and mix in the melted buttercream and sandwich together.
chocolate. 5 Lightly coat the top and sides with chocolate
3 Lightly moisten each slice of genoise with stock glaze, then decorate with chocolate pieces.
syrup, which may be flavoured with kirsch, rum, etc.
494
7 Roulade sponge
Professional tip
Each sheet should be left on the paper on which it is
cooked, individually wrapped, labelled, kept flat and
stored in the freezer to stop it from drying out and losing
flexibility.
Faults
1 Make sure the mixing bowl is clean, dry and free There are two reasons why a roulade sponge might
from grease. become hard and crisp, instead of being pliable:
l baked at too low a temperature for too long
2 Line the baking sheets with silicone paper cut to l mixture spread too thin.
fit.
3 Set the oven at 230 °C.
4 Place the eggs and sugar in a mixing bowl, and Variation
stir over hot water until warm. A chocolate version can be made by substituting 30–40
per cent of the flour for cocoa powder. For a coffee
5 Whisk to the ‘ribbon’ stage and sieve the flour on
sponge, add coffee extract to the eggs after whisking.
to greaseproof paper.
A roulade sponge may also be made using a ‘split-egg’
6 Carefully fold in the flour. method, separating the eggs.
7 Divide equally between the baking sheets and
spread evenly with a drop blade palette knife.
Place immediately in the oven for between 5 and
7 minutes.
8 As soon as the sponge is cooked, turn it out on
to sugared paper, place a damp, clean cloth over
it and lay the hot baking sheet back on top, then
leave to cool. (This will help keep the sponge
moist and flexible as it cools.)
495
8 Swiss roll
9 Cup cakes
Ingredient 20 portions
Flour (soft) or self-raising 200 g
Baking powder (if using plain flour) 1 level tsp
Salt (optional) pinch
Margarine or butter 125 g
Caster sugar 125 g
Eggs 2–3
496
Variation
Cherry cakes: add 50 g glacé cherries cut in quarters Raspberry buns: divide basic mixture (method 1) into
and 3–4 drops vanilla essence to the basic mixture 8 pieces. Roll into balls, flatten slightly, dip tops into milk
(method 2) and divide into 8–12 lightly greased cake then caster sugar. Place on a greased baking sheet, make
tins or paper cases. Bake in a hot oven at 220 °C for a hole in the centre of each and add a little raspberry jam.
15–20 minutes. Bake in a hot oven at 200 °C for 15–20 minutes.
Coconut cakes: in place of 50 g flour, use 50 g Queen cakes: to the basic mixture (method 2) add 100 g
desiccated coconut and 3–4 drops vanilla essence to the washed and dried mixed fruit and cook as for cherry
basic mixture (method 2) and cook as for cherry cakes. cakes.
10 Scones
Variation
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1196 kJ 291 kcal 16.6 g 10.2 g 34.0 g 12.3 g 3.2 g 1.1 g 0.4 g Fruit scones: add 50 g sultanas to the basic mix, or try
Per scone. adding dried cranberries or apricots as alternatives.
Professional tip
After cutting out the scones, turn upside down on the
baking sheet. This will help them rise with straight sides.
497
11 Rock cakes
Ingredient Makes 16
Medium flour (50% soft and 50% strong flour) 500 g
Baking powder 30 g
Salt 3g
Caster sugar 125 g
Egg 60 g
Butter 120 g
Currants 90 g
Citrus peel 30 g
Milk 180 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Egg wash
913 kJ 217 kcal 8.7 g 3.6 g 33.6 g 14.3 g 3.4 g 1.3 g
1 Sieve the flour, baking powder and salt through a 6 Divide the mixture into small portions, approximately
fine sieve. 70 g each, and place evenly on to a baking tray.
2 Dissolve the sugar in the liquid egg. 7 Egg wash and sprinkle with caster sugar.
3 Rub the butter into the flour to form a crumb mix. 8 Bake at 210 °C for 15–20 minutes, until light
4 Add the currants and citrus peel. golden brown.
5 Blend in the milk to achieve a smooth mix.
Variation
Add a small pinch of mixed spice.
12 Madeleines
Ingredient Makes 45
Caster sugar 125 g
Eggs 3
Vanilla pod, seeds from 1
Flour 150 g
Baking powder 1 tsp
Beurre noisette 125 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
392 kJ 94 kcal 5.2 g 3.0 g 10.8 g 5.8 g 0.7 g 0.2 g 0.1 g
1 Whisk the sugar, eggs and vanilla seeds to a hot 4 Pipe into well-buttered madeleine moulds and
sabayon. bake in a moderate oven.
2 Fold in the flour and the baking powder. 5 Turn out and allow to cool.
3 Fold in the beurre noisette and chill for up to
2 hours.
498
499
Faults
A B C D
Cake A is domed (‘cauliflower top’). This occurs if: Cake D has a low volume. This occurs if:
l the flour used is too strong l too much fat is added
l the oven is too hot and/or too dry l the mixture is too dry
l there is not enough fat l there is not enough aeration.
l the ingredients are over-mixed after adding flour.
A good-quality fruit cake will:
Cake B has a sunken top (‘M’ fault). This is caused by l have straight sides, a flat top and good height
adding too much baking powder and/or too much sugar. l have an even distribution of fruit
l be moist and dark.
Cake C has a sunken top and sides (‘X’ fault). This occurs
if the mixture is too wet.
Ingredient 2 × 16 cm
cakes
Butter 250 g
Caster sugar 400 g
Lemons, grated zest of 3
Soft flour 380 g
Baking powder 10 g
Eggs 4
Vanilla extract ½ tsp
Milk 25 ml
Syrup
Lemons, juice of 3
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1437 kJ 342 kcal 14.6 g 8.6 g 51.8 g 67.0 g 4.0 g 0.9 g 0.3 g Caster sugar 100 g
For ⁄8 of a cake, excluding icing.
1
1 Cream the butter, sugar and zest until soft and 7 Deposit into buttered and floured cake tins.
light. 8 Bake at 165 °C for approximately 45 minutes.
2 Sieve the flour and baking powder twice. 9 Boil the lemon juice and sugar.
3 Mix together the eggs and vanilla extract. 10 When the cake is cooked, stab with a skewer and
4 Beat the eggs into the butter and sugar mixture. pour over the syrup.
5 Fold in the flour. 11 Leave to cool in the tin.
6 Add milk to achieve a dropping consistency. This cake can be finished with lemon icing and
decorated with strips of crystallised lemon peel.
500
Décor
15 Apricot glaze
Professional tip
A flan jelly (commercial pectin glaze) may be used as an
alternative to apricot glaze. This is usually a clear glaze
to which food colour may be added.
Variation
Water may be replaced with other liquids to add flavour
to the icing – for example, orange juice, mango juice,
lemon juice, apple juice, lime juice, grape juice, passion
fruit juice – or use a combination of juices with orange
liqueur, kirsch, rum, calvados, etc.
501
17 Royal icing
1 Sift the icing sugar. Mix it well with the egg whites
in a basin, using a wooden spoon.
2 Add a few drops of lemon juice and glycerine and
beat until stiff.
Professional tip
Modern practice is to use egg white substitute or
Note dried egg whites. Always follow the manufacturer’s
instructions for quantities.
This amount of royal icing (400 g) is enough to cover a
small (18 cm) cake.
18 Marzipan
502
19 Praline
Biscuits
503
21 Tuiles
Ingredient 15–20
portions
Butter 100 g
Icing sugar 100 g
Flour 100 g
Egg whites 2
504
Pipe cats’ tongues into their distinctive shape, thicker at the ends
Ingredient Approximately 1 Lightly cream the sugar and butter, add the vanilla
40 essence.
Icing sugar 125 g 2 Add the egg whites one by one, continually
Butter 100 g mixing and being careful not to allow the mixture
Vanilla essence 3–4 drops to curdle.
Egg whites 3–4 3 Gently fold in the sifted flour and mix lightly.
Flour (soft) 100 g 4 Pipe on to a lightly greased baking sheet using a
3 mm plain tube, 2.5 cm apart.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium 5 Bake at 230–250 °C, for a few minutes.
676 kJ 161 kcal 8.3 g 5.2 g 20.7 g 13.2 g 2.1 g 0.4 g 0.1 g
6 The outside edges should be light brown and the
Based on a portion of 4 biscuits.
centres yellow.
7 When cooked, remove on to a cooling rack using
a palette knife.
505
506
24 Brandy snaps
507
Ingredient 20–30 biscuits 1 Cream the sugar and butter until light in colour
and texture.
Caster or unrefined sugar 75 g
2 Add the egg gradually, beating continuously, add
Butter or margarine 150 g
the vanilla essence or lemon zest.
Egg 1
3 Gently fold in the sifted flour and almonds, mix
Vanilla essence 3–4 drops
well until suitable for piping. If too stiff, add a little
or beaten egg.
Grated zest of one lemon
4 Pipe on to a lightly greased and floured baking
Soft flour, white or wholemeal 200 g sheet using a medium-sized star tube (a variety of
Ground almonds 35 g shapes can be used).
5 Some biscuits can be left plain, some decorated
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
with half or whole almonds or neatly cut pieces of
993 kJ 237 kcal 15.2 g 8.2 g 23.3 g 8.4 g 3.4 g 0.8 g 0.2 g
Based on 2 biscuits.
angelica and glacé cherries.
6 Bake in a moderate oven at 190 °C for about
10 minutes.
7 When cooked, remove on to a cooling rack using
a palette knife.
508
26 Shortbread biscuits
Method 2
Ingredient 12 portions
Flour (soft), white or wholemeal 100 g
Rice flour 100 g
Butter or margarine 100 g
Caster or unrefined sugar 100 g
Egg, beaten 1
509
Recipes included in this chapter 25 Baked apples (pommes bonne femme) 537
26 Apple charlotte 538
No. Recipe Page
27 Apple fritters (beignets aux pommes) 539
Cold desserts
28 Griottines clafoutis 540
1 Fresh fruit salad 518
29 Rice pudding 541
2 Poached fruits or fruit compote 519
30 Baked rice pudding (pouding de riz) 542
3 Crème caramel 520
31 Sticky toffee pudding 542
4 Crème brûlée 521
32 Cabinet pudding 543
5 Zabaglione (sabayon with Marsala) 522
33 Soufflé pudding 544
6 Fruit mousse 523
34 Chocolate fondant 544
7 Bavarois 524
35 Bread and butter pudding 546
8 Chocolate mousse 525
36 Apple crumble tartlets 547
9 Vanilla panna cotta served with stewed 526
rhubarb 37 Tarte tatin 548
10 Fruit fool 527 38 Steamed sponge pudding 549
11 Meringue 528 39 Golden syrup pudding 550
12 Vacherin with strawberries and cream 528 40 Christmas pudding 551
13 Lime soufflé frappe 529 41 Vanilla soufflé 552
14 Trifle 530 42 Mango soufflé 554
15 Lime and mascarpone cheesecake 531 43 Lemon curd flourless soufflé 555
16 Baked blueberry cheesecake 531 44 Baked Alaska 556
Iced desserts Sweet sauces
17 Vanilla ice cream 532 45 Sabyon sauce 557
18 Lemon curd ice cream 533 46 Fresh egg custard sauce (sauce à l’anglaise) 558
19 Peach Melba 534 47 Custard sauce 559
20 Pear belle Hélène 534 48 Fruit coulis 559
21 Apple sorbet 535 49 Strawberry sauce 560
22 Chocolate sorbet 535 50 Chocolate sauce 560
23 Raspberry parfait 536 51 Butterscotch sauce 561
Hot desserts 52 Caramel sauce 562
24 Pancakes with apple 537 53 Rum or brandy cream or butter 562
511
What you need to know about salt Basic egg custard sets by coagulation of the egg protein. Egg
l Salt gives us the possibility of many combinations. At white coagulates at approximately 60 °C, egg yolk at 70 °C.
times these may seem normal (such as a terrine of foie Whites and yolks mixed together will coagulate at 66 °C. If
gras and coarse salt), and, at others, surprising (such as the egg protein is overheated or overcooked, it will shrink
praline with coarse salt). and water will be lost from the mixture, causing undesirable
l The addition of salt enhances the flavour of foods bubbles in the custard. This loss of water is called syneresis,
when its quantity is well adjusted; but if added in commonly referred to as scrambling or curdling. This will
greater quantity than we are used to, it produces a very occur at temperatures higher than 85 °C. Therefore, a sauce
interesting, completely unknown result. Care needs to anglaise should be ideally cooked between 70 °C and 85 °C.
be taken when adding salt. There is a fine line between The sauce will become thicker as it becomes closer to 85 °C,
the enhancement of food with salt and spoiling it by but is at risk of curdling beyond this temperature.
adding too much.
l Excessive salt can cause high blood pressure, which Traditional custard made from
could lead to strokes or heart attacks, so it should be
used in moderation. For this reason, many chefs are
custard powder
looking for ways to reduce the amount of salt they use Custard powder can be used to make custard sauce. It is
in their products and dishes. made from vanilla-flavoured cornflour with yellow colouring
added, and is a substitute for eggs. Sweetness is adjusted by
adding sugar before mixing with milk and heating. The fat
Egg custard-based content can be reduced by making it with semi-skimmed
desserts milk rather than full-fat milk.
513
l Follow the recipe carefully. Table 16.1 Time and temperature combinations set out by the
l Always heat the egg yolks or eggs to 70 °C, or use Ice Cream (Heat Treatment) Regulations 1959
pasteurised egg yolks or eggs.
Temperature Time (not less than)
l Ensure that all heating and cooling temperatures are
65.5 °C 30 minutes
followed.
l Always store the end product carefully at the right 71.1 °C 10 minutes
temperature. 79.4 °C 15 seconds
l Never use cream to decorate a product that is still warm.
Ice cream needs this treatment to kill harmful bacteria.
Ice creams and sorbets Freezing without the correct heat treatment does not kill
bacteria; it allows them to remain dormant. The storage
Ice cream temperature for ice cream should not exceed −20 °C ideally,
Traditional ice cream is made from a basic egg custard sauce although standard freezers usually operate between −18 °C
(sauce anglaise). The sauce is cooled and mixed with fresh and −22 °C.
cream. It is then frozen using a rotating machine (churn) The rules for sterilised (UHT) ice cream are the same except
where the water content forms ice crystals. that:
Ice cream should be served at around −13 °C; any colder l The temperature for the heat treatment must not be
and it will be too hard, any warmer and it will be too soft. less than 149.9 °C for at least two seconds.
Long-term storage should be at between −18 °C and −20 °C. l If the sterilised mix is kept in unopened, sterile and air-
tight containers, there no requirement to refrigerate the
The traditional method of making ice cream uses only
mixture before it is frozen.
egg yolks, sugar and milk/cream in the form of a sauce
l In the case of non-milk based products, the
anglaise base. Modern approaches to making ice cream
temperature of opened containers must not exceed
use stabilisers (see page 515) and different sugars, and egg
7.2 °C, except where food mixtures are added that have
whites.
a pH of 4.5 or less to make water ice or similar products
and the combined product is frozen within one hour of
Ice cream regulations combination.
The Dairy Products (Hygiene) Regulations 1995 apply to the
handling of milk-based ice cream, while the Ice Cream (Heat Any ice cream sold must comply with the following
Treatment) Regulations 1959 and 1963 apply to non-milk- compositional standards:
based ice cream in any catering business or shop premises. l It must contain not less than 5 per cent fat and not less
The production process must also take into consideration than 2.5 per cent milk protein (not necessary in natural
the Food Hygiene Regulations 2006. proportions).
l It must conform to the Dairy Product Regulations 1995.
The regulations state that:
l Ice cream must be obtained from a mixture which has For further information contact the Ice Cream Alliance (see
been heated to any of the temperatures in Table 16.1 for www.ice-cream.org).
the times specified.
l The mix must be reduced to a temperature of not more Ice cream making process
than 7.2 °C within one and a half hours. This temperature 1 Weighing: ingredients should be weighed precisely
must not be exceeded until freezing begins. in order to ensure the best results and regularity and
l If the ice cream becomes warm (above −2.2 °C) it consistency.
cannot be sold/used until it has been heated again as 2 Pasteurisation: this is a vital stage in making ice
described above. cream. Its primary function is to minimise bacterial
l A complete cold mix that is reconstituted with water contamination by heating the mixture of ingredients to
does not need to be pasteurised first to comply with 85 °C, then quickly cooling it to 4 °C.
these regulations. 3 Homogenisation: high pressure is applied to cause
l A complete cold mix reconstituted with water must be the explosion of fats, which makes ice cream more
kept below −2.2 °C once it has been frozen. homogenous, creamier, smoother and much lighter. It is
not usually done for homemade ice cream.
514
4 Ripening: this basic but optional stage refines flavour, Use of cream and egg yolks
further develops aromas and improves texture. This l The purpose of cream in ice cream is to improve
occurs during a rest period (4 to 24 hours), which gives creaminess and taste.
the stabilisers and proteins time to act, improving the l Egg yolks act as stabilisers in ice cream due to the
overall structure of the ice cream. This has the same lecithin they contain – they help to prevent the fats and
effect on a crème anglaise, which is much better the water in the ice cream from separating.
day after it is made than it is on the same day. l Egg yolks improve the texture and viscosity of ice
5 Churning: the mixture is frozen while air is cream.
incorporated at the same time. The ice cream is l The purpose of stabilisers (for example, gum arabic,
removed from the machine at about −10 °C. gelatine, pectin) is to prevent crystal formation by
absorbing the water contained in ice cream and making
Use of sugars a stable gel.
l Sucrose (common sugar) not only sweetens ice cream
but also gives it body. An ice cream that contains only Use of stabilisers
sucrose (not recommended) has a higher freezing Gelling substances, thickeners and emulsifiers are all
point. stabilisers. They are products we use regularly, each with
l The optimum sugar percentage of ice cream is between its own specific function, but their main purpose is to
15 and 20 per cent. retain water to make a gel. The case of ice cream is the
l Ice cream that contains dextrose (another type of most obvious, in which they are used to prevent ice crystal
sugar) has a lower freezing point, and better taste and formation. They are also used to stabilise the emulsion,
texture. increase the viscosity of the mix and give a smoother
l As much as 50 per cent of the sucrose can be product that is more resistant to melting. There are many
substituted with other sweeteners, but the stabilising substances, both natural and artificial.
recommended amount is 25 per cent. l The quantity of stabilisers in ice cream should be
l Glucose (another type of sugar) improves smoothness between 3 g and 5 g per kg of mix, with a maximum of
and prevents the crystallisation of sucrose. 10 g.
l The quantity of glucose used should be between 25 l Stabilisers promote air absorption, making products
and 30 per cent of the sucrose by weight. lighter to eat and also less costly to produce, as air
l Atomised glucose (glucose powder) is more water increases the volume of the product.
absorbent, so helps to reduce the formation of ice
crystals. What you need to know about ice
l The quantity of dextrose used should be between 6
and 25 per cent of the substituted sucrose (by weight). cream
l Inverted sugar is a paste or liquid obtained from l Hygienic conditions are essential while making ice
heating sucrose with water and an acid (for example, cream – personal hygiene and high levels of cleanliness
lemon juice). Using inverted sugar in ice cream lowers in the equipment and the kitchen environment must be
the freezing point. maintained.
l Inverted sugar also improves the texture of ice cream l An excess of stabilisers in ice cream will make it sticky.
and delays crystallisation. l Stabilisers should always be mixed with sugar before
l The quantity of inverted sugar used should be a adding, to avoid lumps.
maximum of 33 per cent of the sucrose by weight. It is l Stabilisers should be added at 45 °C, which is when they
very efficient at sweetening and gives ice cream a low begin to act.
freezing point. l Cold stabilisers have no effect on the mixture, so the
l Honey has very similar properties as those of inverted temperature must be raised to 85 °C.
sugar. l Ice cream should be allowed to ‘ripen’ for 4 to 24 hours.
This helps to improve its flavour properties.
l Ice cream should be cooled quickly to 4 °C, because
micro-organisms reproduce rapidly, particularly
between 20 °C and 55 °C.
515
Test yourself
1 Name three types of setting agent.
2 Describe what would happen to a crème caramel if it was cooked at 180 °C.
3 Name the three main types of meringues, and describe their production and
use.
4 Describe the conditions that promote the foam of egg whites when making
meringues.
5 Name two desserts that are finished with a glaze.
6 What is the difference between a cabinet and diplomat pudding?
7 Name five fruits suitable for stewing.
8 Describe the differences between the production of a ‘pudding soufflé’ and a
‘fruit soufflé’.
9 Name four types of sugar, giving an example of their use in a dessert.
10 Explain why salt is sometimes used in the production of desserts.
517
Cold desserts
1 For the syrup, boil the sugar with the water and
place in a bowl.
2 Allow to cool, then add the lemon juice.
3 Peel and cut the orange into segments.
4 Peel, quarter and core the apple and pear, then
cut each quarter into two or three slices, place
in the bowl with the syrup and mix in the orange
segments.
5 Stone the cherries but leave them whole.
6 Cut the grapes in half, peel if required, and
remove any pips. Add the cherries and grapes to
the fruit and syrup mix.
7 Mix the fruit salad carefully and place in a glass
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions bowl in the refrigerator to chill.
Stock syrup 8 Just before serving, peel and slice the banana
Caster sugar 50 g 125 g and mix in.
Water 125 ml 310 ml
Variation
Lemon, juice of ½ 1¼ l Any of the following fruits may be used: dessert
Fruit apples, pears, pineapple, oranges, grapes, melon,
strawberries, peaches, raspberries, apricots,
Orange 1 2½
bananas, cherries, kiwi fruit, plums, mangoes, paw
Dessert apple 1 2½ paws and lychees. Allow about 150 g unprepared fruit
Dessert pear 1 2½ per portion. All fruit must be ripe.
l Kirsch or an orange liqueur could be added to
Cherries 50 g 125 g the syrup.
Grapes 50 g 125 g l Fruit juice (such as apple, orange, grape or passion
fruit) can be used instead of syrup.
Banana 1 2½
518
Rhubarb
1 Trim off the stalk and leaf and wash.
2 Cut into 5 cm lengths and cook as above, adding
extra sugar if necessary. A little ground ginger
may also be added.
Poached rhubarb and pear
Using pears.
0.0 g 0.0 g 33.5 g 33.5 g 0.2 g 2.2 g
Dried fruits (prunes, apricots,
apples, pears)
Apples, pears 1 Dried fruits should be washed and soaked in cold
water overnight.
1 Boil the water and sugar.
2 Gently cook in the liquor with sufficient sugar to
2 Quarter the fruit, remove the core and peel.
taste.
3 Place in a shallow pan in sugar syrup.
4 Add a few drops of lemon juice. Variation
5 Cover with greaseproof paper. A piece of cinnamon stick and a few slices of lemon may
6 Allow to simmer slowly, preferably in the oven, be added to the prunes or pears, one or two cloves to
the dried or fresh apples.
cool and serve.
Any compote may be flavoured with lavender and/
or mint.
Soft fruits (raspberries,
strawberries) Healthy eating tips
1 Pick and wash the fruit. Place in a glass bowl. l Use fruit juice instead of stock syrup.
l If dried fruits are used, no added sugar is needed.
2 Pour on the hot syrup. Allow to cool and serve.
519
3 Crème caramel
520
4 Crème brûlée
521
Note
This is a traditional Italian dessert, which is sometimes
prepared in the restaurant in a special zabaglione pan.
Variation
Use sherry, whisky or brandy instead of Marsala.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Egg yolks, pasteurised 8 20
Caster or unrefined sugar 200 g 500 g
Marsala 150 ml 375 ml
522
6 Fruit mousse
523
7 Bavarois
8 Chocolate mousse
Ingredient 8 portions 16 portions 3 Add all the melted couverture at once and fold it
in quickly.
Stock syrup at 30° Baumé (equal 125 ml 250 ml
quantities of sugar and water will 4 Drain the gelatine, melt it in the microwave and
give 30° Baume)
fold it into the chocolate sabayon mixture.
Pasteurised egg yolks 80 ml 160 ml
5 Add all the whipped cream at once and fold it in
Bitter couverture, melted 250 g 500 g carefully.
Gelatine (soaked) 2 leaves 4 leaves 6 Place the mixture into prepared moulds.
Whipping cream, whipped 500 ml 1 litre Refrigerate or freeze immediately.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Faults
1760 kJ 419 kcal 37.0 g 22.0 g 13.7 g 12.8 g 5.1 g 2.6 g 0.0 g
Possible causes of a heavy texture in chocolate
1 Boil the syrup. mousse:
l The pâte à bombe is under-aerated.
2 Place the yolks into the bowl of a food mixer. Pour
l The cream is insufficiently whipped.
over the boiling syrup and whisk until thick (this is l The mix has been over-worked when folding in the
a pâte à bombe). Remove from the mixer. cream and Italian meringue.
525
526
10 Fruit fool
Method 2
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Fruit purée (raspberry, strawberry, 400 g 1 kg
etc.)
Caster sugar 100 g 250 g
Fresh whipped cream 250 ml 625 ml
Method 3
Method 1
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Cornflour 35 g 85 g
Fruit (apple, gooseberry, rhubarb, etc.) 400 g 1 kg Water 375 ml 940 ml
Water 60 ml 150 ml Sugar 100 g 250 g
Granulated or unrefined sugar 100 g 250 g Fruit purée (raspberry, strawberry, 400 g 1 kg
Cornflour 25 g 60 g etc.)
For an apple fool made with whole milk. 1 Dilute the cornflour in a little of the water.
1 Cook the fruit to a purée in the water with the 2 Boil the remainder of the water with the sugar and
granulated sugar. Pass through a sieve. prepared fruit until soft.
2 Dilute the cornflour in a little of the milk and add 3 Pass through a fine sieve.
the caster sugar. 4 Return to a clean pan and reboil.
3 Boil the remainder of the milk. 5 Stir in the diluted cornflour and reboil. Allow to
4 Pour on to the diluted cornflour and stir well. cool.
5 Return to the pan on a low heat and stir to the 6 Lightly whisk the cream and fold into the mixture.
boil. 7 Serve as for method 1.
6 Mix with the fruit purée. The quantity of mixture
should not be less than 0.5 litres (for four Professional tip
portions). In methods 2 and 3 the fat content may be reduced by
using equal quantities of cream and natural Greek-style
7 Pour into glass coupes or suitable dishes and yoghurt.
allow to set.
8 Decorate with sweetened whipped cream or non-
dairy cream. The colour may need to be adjusted
slightly with food colour.
527
11 Meringue
528
7 Allow the meringue case to cool then remove Raspberries can be used instead of strawberries.
from the paper.
8 Spread a thin layer of cream on the base. Add the Healthy eating tips
strawberries. l Try ‘diluting’ the fat in the cream with some low-fat
9 Decorate with the remainder of the cream. fromage frais.
529
1 Use individual stainless steel ring moulds. Cut a the mixture to make the sabayon. Whisk over a
strip of acetate, 8 cm wide, to fit inside each ring. bain-marie until it reaches 75 °C, then continue
Cut a 6 cm strip to fit inside the first, spread it with whisking away from the heat until it is cold.
tempered couverture and place inside the first 6 Drain and melt the gelatine. Fold it into the
strip, in the mould. sabayon.
2 Place a round of sponge in the base of each 7 Fold in the Swiss meringue, and then the chilled
mould and moisten with lime syrup. whipped cream.
3 Make the Swiss meringue (see page 481). 8 Fill the prepared moulds. Level the tops and chill
4 Whisk the cream until it is three-quarters until set.
whipped, then chill. 9 To serve, carefully remove the mould, peel away
5 Whisk together the egg yolks, sugar and the acetate, plate and decorate.
blanched lime zest. Boil the juice and pour it over
14 Trifle
1 Cut the sponge in half, sideways, and spread with 6 Pour on to the sponge. Leave to cool.
jam. 7 Decorate with the whipped cream, angelica and
2 Place in a glass bowl or individual dishes and cherries.
soak with fruit syrup drained from the tinned fruit;
a few drops of sherry may be added. Variation
3 Cut the fruit into small pieces and add to the Other flavourings or liqueurs may be used in place of
sponge. sherry (such as whisky, rum, brandy, coffee liqueur).
4 Dilute the custard powder in a basin with some of For raspberry or strawberry trifle use fully ripe fresh fruit
the milk and add the sugar. in place of tinned and decorate with fresh fruit in place of
angelica and glacé cherries.
5 Boil the remainder of the milk, pour a little on the
A fresh egg custard may be used with fresh egg yolks
custard powder, mix well, return to the saucepan
(see page 558).
and over a low heat stir to the boil. Allow to cool,
stirring occasionally to prevent a skin forming; fold
in the three-quarters whipped cream.
530
Ingredient 1 cheesecake
Ginger biscuits 200 g
Butter, melted 200 g
Egg yolks, pasteurised 125 g
Caster sugar 75 g
Cream cheese 250 g
Mascarpone 250 g
Gelatine, softened in cold water 15 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Limes, juice and grated zest of 2
2,624 kJ 633 kcal 54.0 g 32.3 g 31.5 g 24.3 g 7.1 g 0.0 g 0.3 g
1 Blitz the biscuits in a food processor. Mix in the 4 Meanwhile, warm the gelatine in the lime juice,
melted butter. Line the cake ring with this mixture and pass through a fine chinois. Whip the cream.
and chill until required. 5 Pour the gelatine and melted white chocolate into
2 Make a sabayon by whisking the egg yolks and the cheese mixture.
sugar together over a pan of simmering water. 6 Remove from the food mixer and fold in the
3 Stir the cream cheese and mascarpone into the whipped cream with a spatula. Finally, whisk in
sabayon until soft. the lime zest.
7 Pour over the prepared base. Chill for 4 hours.
531
1 Blitz the biscuits in a food processor. Stir in the 4 Bake at 160 °C for approximately 30 minutes.
melted butter. Press the mixture into the bottom 5 Remove from the oven and leave to cool slightly
of a lightly greased cake tin with a removable for 10–15 minutes.
collar.
6 Spread soured cream over the top and return to
2 Whisk together the cheese, sugar, eggs, vanilla the oven for 10 minutes.
and lemon zest and juice until smooth.
7 Remove and allow to cool and set. Chill.
3 Stir in the blueberries, then pour the mixture over
the biscuit base.
Iced desserts
Variation
Ingredient 8–10 portions
Coffee ice cream: add coffee essence, to taste, to the
Egg yolks 4
custard after it is cooked.
Caster or unrefined sugar 100 g
Chocolate ice cream: add 50–100 g of chopped
Milk, whole or skimmed 375 ml couverture to the milk before boiling.
Vanilla pod or essence
Strawberry ice cream: add 125 ml of strawberry pulp
Cream or non-dairy cream 125 ml in place of 125 ml of milk. The pulp is added after the
custard is cooked.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Rum and raisin ice cream: soak 50 g raisins in 2 tbsp
616 kJ 147 kcal 8.1 g 4.2 g 15.8 g 15.8 g 3.5 g 0.0 g
rum for 3–4 hours. Add to mixture before freezing.
Using whole milk and single cream.
532
1 Whisk boiling milk into the egg 2 Return the mixture to the hot pan 3 Test the consistency on the back
yolks and sugar used for the milk of a spoon
4 Pass through a fine strainer into a 5 The mixture will cool down; if it 6 Gradually add cream to the
cold pot was left in the hot pan it would mixture in the ice cream machine
continue to cook
533
19 Peach Melba
Professional tip
If using fresh peaches, dip them in boiling water for a
few seconds, cool them by placing into cold water, then
peel and halve.
Variation
Fruit Melba can also be made using pear or banana
instead of peach. Fresh pears should be peeled, halved
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
and poached. Bananas should be peeled at the last
Peaches 2 5 moment.
Vanilla ice cream 125 ml 300 ml
Raspberry coulis 125 ml 300 ml
Traditional presentation
1 Serve a poached pear on a ball of vanilla ice
cream in a coupe.
2 Decorate with whipped cream. Serve with a
sauceboat of hot chocolate sauce.
Modern presentation
1 Coat a poached pear with chocolate sauce.
2 Dress on a plate with vanilla ice cream, more
sauce and a tuile.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,888 kJ 453 kcal 29.7 g 18.2 g 44.5 g 43.6 g 4.5 g 5.3 g 0.0 g
534
21 Apple sorbet
Professional tip
For best results, after freezing, process in a Pacojet.
Variation
Fruits of the forest sorbet: use a mixture of forest
Ingredient 8–10 portions fruits instead of apples.
Granny Smith apples, washed and cored 4
Lemon, juice of 1
Water 400 ml
Sugar 200 g
Glucose 50 g
22 Chocolate sorbet
Ingredient 8 portions
Water 400 ml
Skimmed milk 100 ml
Sugar 150 g
Ice cream stabiliser 40 g
Cocoa powder 30 g
Dark couverture 60 g
535
23 Raspberry parfait
Ingredient 6–8 portions 1 Make up the Italian meringue (see page 480).
Italian meringue 2 Combine the egg yolks and caster sugar in a
Caster sugar 150 g stainless steel bowl. Whisk over a bain-marie to
make a sabayon.
Glucose 20 g
3 Drain the gelatine and dissolve it in the liqueur and
Water 80 ml
lemon juice.
Egg whites 200 g
4 Fold the gelatine mixture into the sabayon, then
Additional ingredients
fold in the raspberry purée.
Egg yolks, pasteurised 80 g
5 Fold in the Italian meringue, then fold in the
Caster sugar 60 g
whipped cream.
Gelatine, soaked 1½ leaves
6 Place into prepared moulds lined with sponge
Raspberry liqueur 10 ml and freeze.
Lemon juice 10 ml
7 Once set, remove from the moulds.
Raspberry purée 120 g
8 In this presentation, the parfait has been lined
Whipped cream 150 ml with sponge only on the base. It is served with a
Sponge raspberry coulis and fresh and dried raspberry
garnishes.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
981 kJ 234 kcal 10.7 g 5.6 g 31.3 g 30.2 g 4.7 g 0.5 g
536
Hot desserts
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Core the apples and make a 2 mm-deep incision
round the centre of each. Wash well. Peel the
Medium-sized cooking apples 4 10
apples for a modern presentation.
Sugar, white or unrefined 50 g 125 g
2 Place in a roasting tray or ovenproof dish.
Cloves 4 10
3 Fill the centre with sugar and add a clove to each.
Butter 20 g 50 g
4 Place 5 g butter on each apple. Add the water.
Water 60 ml 150 ml
5 Bake in a hot oven, at 200–220 °C, for
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
15–20 minutes.
663 kJ 156 kcal 5.1 g 2.2 g 29.7 g 29.5 g 0.4 g 2.7 g
6 Turn the apples over carefully.
Using hard margarine.
7 Return to the oven until cooked, about 40 minutes
in all.
Professional tip
8 Serve with a little cooking liquor and custard,
To protect the peeled apple, wrap it in lightly oiled
greaseproof or silicone paper before putting it in
cream or ice cream.
the oven.
Variation
Cooking apples requires careful temperature control: l Traditional baked apples are cooked with the skin on.
some varieties will turn into purée very quickly. Check l For stuffed baked apples, fill the centre of each apple
carefully at the end of step 5: some apples, baked with washed sultanas, raisins or chopped dates, or a
without the skin, may be fully cooked by this point, in combination of these.
which case, skip steps 6 and 7.
537
26 Apple charlotte
Ingredient 8 individual 6 Butter the moulds, dip half the circles in the
or 2 small clarified butter and place them butter-side down
charlotte
moulds
in the base of each mould.
Dessert apples (Cox’s) 1 kg 7 Next, dip the bread fingers and line them around
the outside of the moulds, slightly overlapping.
Butter 30 g
8 Fill the centre with the apple filling, pressing in
Caster sugar 100 g
carefully.
Lemon, zest of 1
9 Dip the rest of the circles in the butter and place
Breadcrumbs
on top, pressing firmly.
Large, thin-sliced loaf of bread 1
10 Bake at 230 °C for 30–40 minutes until the bread
Clarified butter 250 g is coloured and crisp.
11 Allow to cool slightly before unmoulding; serve
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
2,163 kJ 515 kcal 22.3 g 9.3 g 74.5 g 23.4 g 9.4 g 6.1 g with hot apricot sauce or crème anglaise.
Using hard margarine instead of butter.
Professional tip
1 Peel, core and cut the apples into thick slices.
As this dessert will most likely be plated and sent
2 Melt the butter in a pan, add the sugar and finely from the kitchen, it will more often than not be made
grated lemon zest. in individual portions. Larger versions (such as that
in the photograph) would be suitable for family or
3 Add the apples and simmer until barely cooked,
silver service, but could not be cut and made to look
stir in some breadcrumbs to absorb any liquid. presentable if served from the kitchen.
4 Cut out circles of bread for the top and base of
the moulds.
5 Cut the crusts and the rest of the bread into Variation
fingers 2–3 cm wide, depending on whether you Replace the apples with pears, or use a mixture of both.
are making individual or larger charlottes.
538
Faults
A common fault is that the charlotte collapses when
unmoulded (the larger versions are more prone to this).
The main reasons for this are:
l The filling is too wet. To avoid this, ensure that cooking
apples are never used, and do not overcook.
l The bread is not baked crisp enough to withstand the
pressure of supporting the filling.
If making individual charlottes, make sure that the ratio of
bread to filling is not compromised by using bread that is
cut too thick or overlapping too much.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Peel and core the apples and cut into 0.5 cm
rings.
Cooking apples 400 g 1 kg
2 Pass through flour, shake off the surplus.
Flour, as needed
Frying batter 150 g 375 g
3 Dip into the frying batter (see page 194).
539
28 Griottines clafoutis
540
29 Rice pudding
Variation
Place some good-quality jam in the base of the dish.
Place in a serving dish before piping meringue on top
and baking in a hot oven until coloured.
Leftover rice pudding can be used as an alternative
to crème pâtissière or frangipane as a filling for a
Ingredient 10 portions baked flan.
Milk 650 ml
Vanilla pod 1 Health and safety
Short grain rice 60 g As this recipe requires some ingredients that are not
Liaison boiled, ensure all work surfaces and equipment are kept
Pasteurised egg 60 g
scrupulously clean.
541
1 Wash the rice and place it in a pie dish or 5 Bake at 180–200 °C, until the milk starts
individual dishes. simmering.
2 Add the sugar and milk, and mix well. 6 Reduce the heat and allow the pudding to cook
3 Add the butter, vanilla essence and nutmeg. slowly, allowing 1½–2 hours in all (less time for
individual dishes).
4 Place on a baking sheet; clean the rim of the pie
The pudding may be garnished with nuts, as shown.
dish.
Ingredient 10 puddings
Dates 375 g
Water 625 ml
Butter 125 g
Caster sugar 375 g
Eggs 5
Soft flour 375 g
Baking powder 10 g
Vanilla compound 1 tsp
542
1 Remove stones and chop the dates, place in the Sticky toffee sauce
water and simmer for about 5 minutes until soft,
set aside to cool. Granulated sugar 600 g
2 Butter and sugar individual dariole moulds. Unsalted butter 300 g
3 Cream the butter and sugar until light in colour Double cream 450 g
and aerated.
Brandy 30 ml
4 Gradually add the beaten eggs, beating
continuously. 1 Make a dry caramel by carefully melting the sugar
5 Sieve the flour and baking powder twice and fold in. until a deep golden colour is achieved.
6 Finally add the dates and water and vanilla 2 Cut the butter into small cubes, add to the cream
compound. and heat.
7 Fill the moulds three-quarters full and bake at 3 Gradually add the hot cream and butter to the
180 °C for 30–35 minutes. caramel a little at a time.
4 Finally stir in the brandy.
Professional tip To serve, coat the pudding with the sauce and serve
Sticky toffee pudding can be steamed instead of baked. with vanilla or milk ice cream.
If steaming, remember to cover with a disc of silicone
paper and seal with a pleated square of foil, as for
steamed puddings (Recipe 38).
32 Cabinet pudding
33 Soufflé pudding
34 Chocolate fondant
Ingredient 10 portions
Unsalted butter 260 g
Dark couverture 260 g
Eggs, pasteurised 120 g
Egg yolks, pasteurised 40 g
Caster sugar 150 g
Instant coffee 5g
Plain flour 110 g
Baking powder 5g
Cocoa powder 75 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
2,830 kJ 675 kcal 46.8 g 29.6 g 55.9 g 40.9 g 11.0 g 0.6 g Salt Pinch
544
1 Melt the butter and couverture together. 6 Pipe into individual stainless steel rings lined with
2 Warm the eggs, egg yolks, sugar and coffee and silicone paper and placed on a silicone paper-
whisk to the ribbon stage. lined baking sheet.
3 Sieve all the dry ingredients twice. 7 Bake at 190 °C for 5 minutes.
4 Fold the chocolate and butter into the eggs. 8 Carefully slide off the rings and serve with vanilla
ice cream.
5 Fold in the dry ingredients.
1 Melt the chocolate and butter in 2 Fold the melted chocolate into the 3 Add the dry ingredients.
small pieces. egg mixture.
545
Eggs 5
Caster sugar 100 g Variation
Nutmeg This pudding can be made in individual dishes or baked
To finish in a tray and cut and plated.
Apricot jam 100 g Try using alternatives to bread such as fruit loaf, brioche,
baguette slices or panettone.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Soak the sultanas in rum the day before.
1463 kJ 350 kcal 23.0 g 14.4 g 34.0 g 27.0 g 3.7 g 0.3 g 0.4 g
Try adding a layer of caramelised apple slices.
1 Butter an earthenware or other suitable dish and A chocolate version can be made by adding couverture
sprinkle with some of the sultanas. (good-quality chocolate) to the custard.
2 Cut the crusts off the bread, dip in melted butter
on both sides and cut in half diagonally. Healthy eating tips
3 Arrange overlapping bread slices neatly in the l Reduce the sugar content and add more dried fruit,
dish. apricots or cranberries.
l Try using milk only, semi-skimmed or skimmed.
4 Sprinkle with more sultanas and cover with l Dip the bread in the butter on just one side to reduce
another layer of bread. the fat content.
546
Icing sugar, to decorate This dish could be made with pears or plums instead
of apples.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2200 kJ 541 kcal 36.0 g 19.3 g 51.0 g 20.0 g 7.3 g 2.6 g 0.3 g
547
37 Tarte tatin
548
549
Ingredient 5 portions 12 portions 1 Sieve the flour, salt and baking powder (or replace
the flour and baking powder with self-raising flour)
Flour 150 g 300 g
into a bowl.
Salt pinch large pinch
2 Mix the suet, sugar and zest.
Baking powder 10 g 20 g
3 Add the beaten egg and milk and mix to a
Suet, chopped 75 g 150 g
medium dough.
Caster or unrefined sugar 50 g 100 g
4 Pour the syrup in a well-greased basin or
Lemon, zest of 1 2 individual moulds (1 hour cooking time). Place the
Egg, beaten 1 2 pudding mixture on top.
Milk, whole or skimmed 125 ml 250 ml 5 Cover securely; steam for 1½–2 hours.
Golden syrup 125 ml 250 ml Serve with a sauceboat of warm syrup containing the
lemon juice, or with sauce anglaise or ice cream.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1315 kJ 313 kcal 13.0 g 5.9 g 47.8 g 26.6 g 4.3 g 0.9 g
Variation
To make a treacle pudding, use a light treacle in place of
the golden syrup. Vegetarian suet is available.
550
40 Christmas pudding
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Professional tip
2077 kJ 495 kcal 23.9 g 11.6 g 64.9 g 45.8 g 6.3 g 3.6 g 0.2 g
Like a Christmas fruit cake, Christmas pudding is best
For 1⁄8 of a pudding. made in September and allowed to mature.
551
41 Vanilla soufflé
552
Prepare the mould Knock one-third of the meringue into the panada
Faults
Soufflé does not rise: Soufflé does not rise evenly:
l under- or over-beaten whites l moulds not prepared correctly (mixture has stuck to
l wrong proportion of whites to base the mould on one side)
l mixture left to stand before cooking l uneven heat in the oven.
l moulds not buttered correctly.
Soufflé has a cracked top:
Soufflé rises but drops back: l too much egg white used
l too much egg white used. l egg white is overbeaten.
553
42 Mango soufflé
554
555
44 Baked Alaska
Professional tip
Baked Alaska is best made in advance and held in
the freezer, then flashed through the oven just before
Ingredient 10 portions
serving. It is now common practice to colour the
Vanilla ice cream or parfait 10 × 5 cm meringue with a blowtorch, but the meringue will have
diameter rings a much better texture and more even colouring if it is
(500 g approx.)
finished in the oven.
Roulade sponge (see page 495) 1 sheet
If making individual baked Alaskas, as in the
Stock syrup flavoured with rum or kirsch 50 ml photographs, take care not to upset the balance
Italian meringue 500 g between filling and meringue – when scaled down it is
easy to pipe on too much meringue.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
290 kJ 521 kcal 16.4 g 7.3 g 91.3 g 81.2 g 7.7 g 0.6 g
Brush the sponge with syrup Pipe meringue to cover Pipe swirls of meringue to decorate
556
Sweet sauces
45 Sabayon sauce
Ingredient 8 portions
(450–500 ml)
Egg yolks, pasteurised 6
Caster or unrefined sugar 100 g
Dry white wine 250 ml
Note
Sauce sabayon may be offered as an accompaniment to
any suitable hot sweet (for example, soufflés or pudding
soufflé).
Variation
A sauce sabayon may also be made using milk in place
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre of wine, which can be flavoured according to taste (for
454 kJ 108 kcal 3.4 g 1.0 g 13.3 g 13.3 g 1.8 g 0.0 g
example, with vanilla, nutmeg or cinnamon).
Using 5 egg yolks.
557
Variation
Other flavours may be used in place of vanilla, for
example:
l brandy
l cardamom seeds
l chocolate
l coffee or coffee liqueur
l kirsch
l orange flower water
l orange liqueur
Ingredient 300 ml 700 ml
l rum
Egg yolks, pasteurised 40 ml 100 ml l star anise
Caster or unrefined sugar 25 g 60 g l whisky.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
281 kJ 67 kcal 3.7 g 1.6 g 6.3 g 6.3 g 2.5 g 0.0 g 0.0 g
558
47 Custard sauce
48 Fruit coulis
Professional tip
The reason the soft-ball stage needs to be achieved
when the sugar is mixed with the purée is that this
stabilises the fruit and prevents separation once the
coulis is presented on the plate.
Adding lemon juice brings out the flavour of the fruit.
559
49 Strawberry sauce
Variation
Alternative fruits or purées that can be used include:
peach, apricot, mango, paw paw, blackberry and
raspberry. For peach sauce, for example, proceed as
above, substituting peach purée for the strawberries.
50 Chocolate sauce
Method 1
Ingredient 300 ml 750 ml
Double cream 150 ml 375 ml
Butter 25 g 60 g
Milk or plain couverture callets 180 g 420 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1287 kJ 310 kcal 26.0 g 16.0 g 17.5 g 17.5 g 2.7 g 0.2 g 0.1 g
560
Method 2
Ingredient 300 ml 750 ml 1 Dissolve the sugar in the water over a low heat.
Caster sugar 40 g 100 g 2 Remove from the heat. Stir in the chocolate and
butter.
Water 120 ml 300 ml
Dark chocolate couverture 160 g 400 g
3 When everything has melted, stir in the cream
(75 per cent cocoa solids) and gently bring to the boil.
Unsalted butter 25 g 65 g Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1012 kJ 244 kcal 18.7 g 11.5 g 13.9 g 13.0 g 2.9 g 2.6 g 0.0 g
Single cream 80 ml 200 ml For 50 ml of sauce.
51 Butterscotch sauce
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1454 kJ 351 kcal 31.0 g 19.4 g 18.3 g 18.3 g 0.8 g 0.0 g 0.2 g
For 50 ml of sauce.
561
52 Caramel sauce
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
883 kJ 213 kcal 19.9 g 12.1 g 8.1 g 8.1 g 1.0 g 0.0 g 0.0 g
For 50 ml of sauce.
562
Healthy eating and The Eatwell plate focuses on the food groups that provide
the basic nutrients. The advice given is that the diet should
producing healthier dishes consist of:
l more starchy foods – such as cereals, breads, pasta,
potatoes and rice; these provide energy and enable the
Why healthy eating is important body to function
Obesity and its related health problems have increased l more fruit and vegetables – aim for five portions
dramatically in recent years. In the UK, for example, an per day. Fruit and vegetables provide vitamins and
estimated 24 million adults are classed as obese. Worldwide, fibre across the diet as well as antioxidants, which are
it is estimated that half a billion adults are obese. There is thought to help prevent some cancers
also concern about the rising numbers of obese children. l moderate amounts of food from the milk and
dairy, and meat, fish and alternative proteins
Healthy eating is not just about reducing obesity, however.
groups – as a guideline, two to three portions from
Research suggests that a third of all cancers are caused by
each group per day; these provide protein and minerals
poor diet. Diet can also be linked to high blood pressure,
that enable the body to maintain itself
heart disease, diabetes, osteoporosis and tooth decay.
l very small amounts of foods containing fats and
Eating a balanced nutritious diet can help to protect us
sugars, and drinks containing sugars – selecting
from these illnesses.
lower-fat options where possible; in addition, foods that
Increasing numbers of people now eat away from their own are high in salt should be restricted. These foods are
homes so those providing the food have a responsibility to linked to heart disease, strokes, high blood pressure and
be mindful of good nutrition. obesity; by reducing our intake, we help to reduce the
risk of these diseases.
Food, nutrition and exercise are crucial to our health and
well-being. There is no doubt that making the right choices Information on the portions of different types of foods
about what we eat and drink, combined with taking regular that make up a healthy diet is given in the Eatwell plate
exercise, can protect against many diseases and poor from the UK government. For more information visit:
health. There are also many immediate health and lifestyle www.dh.gov.uk/en/Publichealth/Nutrition/index.htm.
benefits to be gained from healthy eating.
Media coverage and advice on nutrition can seem
confusing but the most reliable advice remains the same
A balanced diet and good health and is outlined in Table 17.1 below.
Foods are not ‘good’ or ‘bad’ – it is the overall balance of
the diet that matters. This means having a variety of foods,
basing meals on starchy foods and eating at least five
portions of fruit and vegetables a day. The balance to strive
for is illustrated in nationally agreed advice, the Eatwell
plate (see next page).
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Eating more fruit and vegetables Spending more money on food Feeling fitter, with more energy
Eating a little less of some food items Not enjoying food Enjoying a wide variety of foods
Enjoying good food and making wise ‘Brown and boring food’ Not buying expensive ‘diet’ products
food choices
Just salads Knowing that changes made today
Making small, gradual changes will have long-term benefits
Making major changes
Feeling satisfied and good about food
Going on a ‘special diet’
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Table 17.2 Key nutritional terms and current guidance for health
Nutrient Recommendations for a healthy diet
Fat is a very concentrated source of energy. The same Cut down on fat intake, particularly the saturated types
weight of pure fat has over twice as much energy as (usually from animal sources) that push up blood
sugar or starch. Fat is present in foods in two main types: cholesterol. Switch to foods containing unsaturated fats.
saturated fat in foods from animal sources such as butter, For example, use oils instead of butter and incorporate
cheese, meat and milk; unsaturated fat in foods from more oily fish, such as salmon, in menu planning.
plants (e.g. oils, nuts and seeds) and oily fish (e.g. tuna,
salmon, mackerel).
Carbohydrate may be one of two types: sugars, which We should aim for 50 per cent of our energy from starch,
occur naturally in certain foods such as fruit and honey preferably unrefined starches, and cut back on sugars.
(but are added to many manufactured foods, particularly
confectionery, cakes and biscuits); and starches, found
naturally in satisfying foods such as bread, breakfast
cereals, rice, pasta and potatoes.
Fibre is found in plant foods and aids a healthy digestive On current estimates we all eat around 20 g dietary fibre
system. Good sources include all wholegrain cereals, per day – the healthy goal is around 30 g per day.
pulses, fruits, vegetables and nuts.
Protein is the ‘body-building’ nutrient found in meat, fish, Protein requirements are often overestimated. For example,
cheese and eggs, but also in vegetable sources such as adults only need between 35 g and 50 g of protein per day.
cereals (e.g. pasta, breakfast cereals, bread), pulses and This can be provided by a 100 g portion of chicken plus a
nuts. carton of yoghurt and 200 g of baked beans.
Vitamins and minerals are needed in minute amounts Recommended daily amounts for nine vitamins and
for many bodily processes. Since the body cannot make 11 minerals are given in the government’s report on
these essential micronutrients, they have to be provided by Dietary Reference Values (see www.nutrition.org.uk/
the diet. nutritionscience/nutrients/nutrient-requirements).
Salt is sodium chloride, which is involved in maintaining There is now stronger evidence that our salt intakes are
the body’s water balance. Sodium is a type of mineral; too high (estimated at about 8 g per day) and can lead to
sodium chloride is added to many manufactured foods high blood pressure. The aim should be about 4 g of salt
and in particularly high amounts in cured and snack foods. per day.
Energy comes from carbohydrates, fats, protein and We need to balance energy intake through food with
alcohol. It is measured in calories, or joules, which are so energy output through activity; this is needed for good
tiny they are usually expressed in kilocalories (kcals) or health and control of body weight.
kilojoules (kJ).
Preparing ingredients in a healthy Chefs can be highly influential in healthy eating. The
ingredients and the proportions in which they are used,
way and cooking techniques to plus cooking and service methods chosen, can all influence
maximise nutritional value the nutritional content of a dish or meal. The most effective
Chefs have a vital role in making healthy eating an exciting approach to healthy catering is to make small changes to
reality for us all. Customer trends show that many people popular dishes, which may involve:
l Small changes in portion sizes – for example, adding
are looking for healthier eating options, particularly if they
eat away from home every day. Interest in healthy eating is a bread roll or jacket potato to a meal; this yields more
one of the major consumer trends to emerge in the last 20 starch in proportion to fat (effectively diluting the fat).
l Subtle modifications to recipes – for example, pizzas
years and represents an important and lasting commercial
opportunity for chefs. could be made with a thicker base, topped with
mushrooms and roasted peppers, and with less
As well as escalating consumer demand, in some sectors, mozzarella than usual but a sprinkling of Parmesan
such as school catering, there are strict requirements relating for flavour; omit the salt and rely on Parmesan, black
to nutritional standards. Healthy options and nutritional pepper and chopped oregano to add flavour.
information are now regularly included in contract catering
menus.
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Vegetarian/vegan and other Society advises against); and any dishes made with
these including pasta, noodles, semolina, bread,
ethical diets pastries, some yoghurts, some cheese spreads, barley-
Many people do not eat meat or fish for a variety of reasons, based drinks, malted drinks, beer, some brands of
and some people do not eat any type of dish made with or mustard, and proprietary sauces made with flour (use
containing the products of animals. You should be aware of cornflour to thicken; rice, potato, corn and sago are also
the following diets: acceptable).
l semi-vegetarian or demi-vegetarian: occasionally l Low-cholesterol and saturated fat: liver, egg yolks
eat fish and/or meat and shellfish (which are high in cholesterol), beef, pork
l ovo-vegetarian: do not eat milk and dairy products and lamb (which contain saturated fats), butter, cream,
l lacto-vegetarian: do not eat eggs groundnut oil and margarine (use oils and margarines
l vegan: do not eat any food of animal origin (including labelled high in polyunsaturated fats).
honey, dairy products and eggs); vegetables, fruits, l Low-fat: any food that contains fat or has been fried or
grains, legumes, pasta made without eggs, soya roasted.
products and other products of plants are acceptable l Low-residue: wholemeal bread, brown rice and pasta,
l frutarian or fructarian: eat only fruit, nuts and berries. fried and fatty foods.
l Low-salt: foods and dishes that have had salt added
Religious diets during cooking or processing (including smoked and
cured fishes and meats, and hard cheeses) or contain
Adherents of the religions listed below have strict dietary monosodium glutamate.
requirements: l Nut allergy: nuts, blended cooking oils and margarine
l Hindu: do not eat meat, fish or eggs. Orthodox Hindus
(since these may include nut oil; use pure oils or butter)
are usually strict vegetarians; less-strict Hindus may eat and any dishes containing these (check label).
lamb, poultry and fish, but definitely not beef as cattle
have a deep religious meaning – milk, however, is highly
regarded. Food allergies and
l Jewish: do not eat pork, pork products, shellfish and
eels, meat and milk served at the same time or cooked
intolerances
together. Strict Jews eat only Kosher meat; milk and milk For customers who have an intolerance or allergy to certain
products are usually avoided at lunch and dinner (but foods, these foods can be life threatening. In some cases
are acceptable at breakfast). people suffer anaphylactic shock (swelling of the face and
l Muslim: do not eat pork, meat that is not halal mouth area, which restricts breathing); for others eating
(slaughtered according to custom), shellfish and alcohol foods to which they are allergic or intolerant could cause
(even when used in cooking). severe stomach cramps, causing poor digestion and
l Rastafarian: do not eat processed food, pork, fish absorption of nutrients, which can lead to further health
without fins (eels), alcohol, coffee or tea. complications.
l Sikh: beef, pork, lamb, poultry and fish may be The 14 most-common food allergens include:
acceptable to Sikh men, but Sikh women tend to avoid l cereals containing gluten (wheat, barley, rye and oats in
all meat. some cases)
l crustaceans, for example prawns, crabs, lobster and
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l sesame (oil and tahini) l be receptive to people with a food allergy, asking
l sulphur dioxide (a preservative found in some dried questions about the food on offer
fruit) l let the allergic person or carer check food labels and
l lupin (seeds and flour) speak to the chef themselves
l molluscs, for example clams, mussels, whelks, oysters, l not cater for the person if you are unable to do so safely
snails and squid. l train serving staff in relevant food allergy issues
l avoid the indiscriminate use of nuts, for example
Regulations around food labelling and information for
powdered nuts as a garnish, unless this is an essential
customers in relation to the major allergens state that these
part of the recipe
should be highlighted on food labels, within the ingredients
l ensure that ingredients of dishes are reflected in their
list, or on information available for customers in a restaurant
name, for example ‘nut and carrot salad’.
setting.
Food producers and businesses can choose which method The five Cs
they will use to emphasise these 14 allergens on their These are some of the safeguards that can be set in place
product labels, or how to indicate their use on menus. in kitchens when providing dishes to meet specific dietary
For example, this could be done by listing them in bold, requirements:
contrasting colours or underlining. Some may also use an l Content: read the ingredients lists for potential
allergy advice statement on their products to explain this, allergens; for example, malt vinegar contains barley and
for example: ‘Allergy Advice: for allergens including cereals therefore should not be in dishes for coeliac (gluten-
containing gluten, see ingredients in bold.’ For restaurants free) diets.
this advice statement could be: ‘Allergy Advice: please l Contact: even small traces of ingredients can cause an
inform staff, who can provide a full list of allergens in our issue; wash hands after handling nuts or wear gloves.
dishes.’ Segregate foods containing major allergens from other
foods. If possible, keep certain preparation areas nut-
Anaphylaxis free.
l Contamination: assess work practices to avoid cross-
This is the closing of the throat area in reaction to
something eaten or ingested. It can cause swelling of the contamination of products. For example, if making
face and mouth area and can affect breathing. Those who dairy-free ice cream make it first and then store it
suffer normally carry an EpiPen with them at all times – it separately; avoid frying with oils that have been used to
contains adrenaline, which relaxes the muscles of the lungs cook other foods such as fish or nut cutlets.
l Cleaning: ensure that equipment is cleaned correctly;
and stimulates the heart, which can be injected should an
anaphylactic reaction begin. Anaphylaxis may restrict the even better, use separate equipment. Soap and hot
lifestyle of those who suffer from it – they may be more water followed by thorough rinsing have been shown
reluctant to eat out or travel due to concerns about the to be effective in removing allergen traces.
l Communication: this should be into and out of the
potential risk.
kitchen to ensure customers have sufficient confidence
in the organisation to meet their requirements. Service
Minimising the risk of allergic staff should be able to pass information to customers
reactions and preventing about the contents of each dish, as well as explain to
the kitchen staff the needs of each customer, ensuring
contamination that it is clear and recorded to enable it to be checked
Food preparation staff need to be particularly careful and confirmed as each dish is served.
to avoid cross-contamination; even very small traces of
allergenic foods can trigger reactions for some people. As There could also be a sixth C: common sense. If you are not
a caterer you can: clear about the ingredients or dishes being offered, then
say so, and find out.
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Test yourself
1 The components of food are divided into six main nutrient groups. What are
they?
2 How could you increase dietary fibre in recipes with which you are familiar?
3 Which cooking methods do not require the addition of fat?
4 It is thought that there is too much fat in the average UK diet. Give three
reasons why too much fat should be avoided.
5 List three groups that may request specific foods for dietary requirements.
6 Which food item should not be included in a dish for diabetic customers?
7 How many portions of fruit/vegetables is it recommended that we eat each
day? Suggest what these could be; include portion sizes.
8 What is meant by ‘an allergy’?
9 Which religious/cultural diets forbid the eating of pork and pork products?
10 Suggest three ways that chefs could make the food that they cook healthier.
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Cold meat dishes and pies 65 Terrine of bacon, spinach and mushrooms 616
61 Chicken salad 612 Bread products
62 Raised pork pie 613 66 Sandwiches 617
63 Veal and ham pie 614 67 Wraps 618
Pâtés and terrines 68 Bagels 618
64 Liver pâté (pâté de foie) 615 69 Canapés 619
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Cooked and cured meats Serving whole fish would be normal on a buffet table, as in
whole salmon with a cucumber salad and dill mayonnaise.
The typical meats or poultry for cold presentation are roast
Whole shellfish might also be used, such as a dressed crab,
beef, boiled or honey roast ham or gammon, roast chicken
or whole prawns as part of a cocktail.
or turkey, and boiled ox tongue. These can be cooked and
cooled, or leftover joints from previous hot meals can be used. Soused fish or ceviche can be served as an individual cold
Cold meats can also be bought in ready cooked or ready for dish with a vegetable garnish and sauce.
service from suppliers. These include cured meats and salamis
that can then be offered with a garnish and sauce. Pies
The various ways to present and serve cold meats are: Pies, such as game and pork pies, and flans, can be made
l sliced from whole joints on the bone in front of the in the kitchen or purchased pre-prepared ready for slicing
customer (in which case all bones that may hinder and serving, which helps with ensuring consistency. They
carving must be removed first) can be served as part of a cold buffet or as single portions.
l sliced from boned joints, which in some cases may be
rolled and stuffed (also in front of the customer)
l pre-sliced in the kitchen, in which case the meat
Bread and pastry
or poultry should be cut as close to service time as Breads are used for sandwiches, canapés or as an
possible, otherwise it will start to dry and curl up; pre- accompaniment to many dishes to add texture. Consider
sliced meats or poultry can be neatly cut, dressed with types of bread that would add texture and flavour to
the slices overlapping each other, placed on to large the dish being served, for example toasted brioche with
dishes or individual plates, covered with cling film and chicken parfait, wholemeal to accompany fish, and perhaps
kept under refrigeration; when large numbers of plated a focaccia crouton to accompany a tomato and basil salad.
meals have to be prepared, plate rings can be used and
the plates stacked in sensible-sized numbers. Cold sauces and dressings
When roast chickens are required for serving cold, ideally Salad dressings
they should be cooked 1–2 hours before service, left to cool These dressings may be varied by the addition of other
(preferably in a blast chiller) and then carved as required. In ingredients. Salads should be lightly dressed or the dressing
this way, the meat remains moist and succulent. Chickens offered separately to give the customer the choice.
can then be cut into eight pieces and the excess bones
removed before serving.
Chutneys and relishes
Chutneys are made from a variety of ingredients, usually
Ham fruit, preserved in sugar and acid after careful cooking. They
Ham should not be confused with gammon. A gammon is are flavoured with a range of spices.
the hind leg of a baconer weight pig and is cut from a side
of bacon. A ham is the hind leg of a porker pig and is cut Chutneys may be served as an accompaniment to terrines
round from the side of pork with the aitch bone, and usually and pâtés, salads, cold meats, poultry, game and cheese.
cured by dry salting. Ham is boiled and can be served hot They may also accompany a traditional curry (for example,
or cold. Certain imported hams (Parma ham, Bayonne mango chutney).
and Ardennes) are sliced thinly and eaten raw, generally Relishes are similar to chutneys except they are generally
as an hors d’oeuvre. In order to carve the ham efficiently smoother and do not always contain as much sugar.
it is necessary to remove the aitch bone after cooking.
Traditional English hams include York and Bradenham. Fruits and vegetables for use in relishes and chutneys must
be unblemished and well washed. Good-quality vinegars
with 5 per cent acetic acid must be used.
Fish and shellfish
Whole fish or fillets can be prepared and served as cold
dishes. These would be poached, cured or pickled, and
could be purchased ready to serve or prepared in the
kitchen.
574
Test yourself
1 What is considered to be a safe temperature for storing sandwiches and
canapés if they are not for immediate consumption?
2 Why is it advisable that foods taken from the fridge are allowed to stand at
room temperature for five to ten minutes before being served?
3 What precautions should be taken into account when serving pre-prepared
terrines and pâtés?
4 List three types of shellfish that may be served cold.
5 Presentation is considered to be an important indicator of quality, especially
for cold buffet service. Name three other quality points you should look for.
6 When making mayonnaise and vinaigrette, which oils could be used to give a
low-cholesterol product?
7 Describe the preparation of a crab cocktail.
8 When preparing cooked and cured food, why is the relationship of time and
temperature important?
9 Describe how a joint of roast beef can be presented.
10 Suggest how the fat content of cold items could be reduced.
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1 Vinaigrette
Variation
Variations to vinaigrette include:
l English mustard in place of French mustard
l chopped herbs (chives, parsley, tarragon, etc.)
l chopped hard-boiled egg
l other good-quality oils, for example sesame seed or
walnut
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l different flavoured vinegars or lemon juice.
1,740 kJ 415 kcal 45.5 g 6.3 g 0.5 g 0.1 g 0.6 g 0.0 g
Using 3 tbsp oil for 4–6 portions. Using 6 tbsp oil for 4–6 portions
this recipe provides: 3439 kJ/415 kcal energy, 90.5 g fat, 12.6 g
saturated fat, 0.5 g carbohydrates, 0.1 g sugar, 0.6 g protein and
0.0 g fibre. Video: making
Combine all the ingredients together. vinaigrette
http://bit.ly/
The number of portions yielded will depend on how the 1DWIKjw
vinaigrette is used.
Ingredient 8 portions
Water 62 ml
Olive oil 250 ml
Balsamic vinegar 62 ml
Sherry vinegar 2 tbsp
Caster sugar ½ tsp
Seasoning
Professional tip
The amount of balsamic vinegar needed will depend on
its quality, age, etc. Add more or less as required.
This dressing works well because it is not an emulsion.
1 Whisk all ingredients together and correct the The oil and vinegar provide a stark contrast and can be
seasoning. stirred just before serving.
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3 Tomato vinaigrette
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
382 kJ 93 kcal 9.6 g 1.4 g 1.4 g 1.3 g 0.2 g 0.3 g 0.3 g
4 Mayonnaise
Ingredient 8 portions
Egg yolks, very fresh or pasteurised 3
Vinegar or lemon juice 2 tsp
Small pinch of salt
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1248 kJ 303 kcal 33.0 g 5.1 g 0.1 g 0.1 g 1.1 g 0.0 g 0.1 g
Faults
Mayonnaise may separate, turn or curdle for several
reasons:
l you have added the oil too quickly
l the oil is too cold
l you have not whisked enough
l the egg yolks were stale and weak.
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Place yolks, vinegar, salt and mustard in the Whisk until thoroughly mixed Continue to whisk vigorously and start to add
bowl of a food mixer the oil – this needs to be done slowly
Keep whisking until all the oil has been added Whisk in the boiling water; taste and correct
seasoning if necessary
5 Andalusian sauce
Professional tip
For Andalusian sauce, Thousand Island dressing,
green sauce and other similar recipes, use a blender
to achieve the desired texture and flavour, but do not
purée completely.
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Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1082 kJ 263 kcal 28.0 g 4.3 g 0.9 g 0.6 g 0.8 g 0.2 g 0.2 g
7 Tartare sauce
Ingredient 8 portions
Mayonnaise 250 ml
Capers, chopped 25 g
Gherkins, chopped 50 g
Sprig of parsley, chopped
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
911 kJ 221 kcal 24.0 g 3.6 g 0.8 g 0.6 g 0.6 g 0.1 g 0.2 g
Professional tip
Finely chop the gherkins and capers and use a blender
to give the desired texture and consistency, but do not
purée completely.
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8 Remoulade sauce
Ingredient 8 portions
Mayonnaise 250 ml
Tomato ketchup 30 ml
White wine vinegar 1 tbsp
Caster sugar 1 tsp
Onion, finely chopped 15 g
Clove of garlic, finely chopped 1
Tabasco sauce 2 drops
Worcester sauce ½ tsp
Gherkins, finely chopped 2
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
928 kJ 225 kcal 24.0 g 3.6 g 2.6 g 2.3 g 0.5 g 0.1 g 0.3 g
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10 Mint sauce
Ingredient 8 portions
Mint 2–3 tbsp
Caster sugar 1 tsp
Vinegar 125 ml
Professional tip
A less acid sauce can be produced by dissolving the
sugar in 125 ml boiling water and, when cold, adding the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium chopped mint and 1–2 tablespoon vinegar to taste.
26 kJ 6 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 0.7 g 0.6 g 0.1 g 0.0 g 0.0 g
Method 1
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Egg yolk, pasteurised 1 2½
Vinegar 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Salt, pepper, mustard
Olive oil or sunflower oil 5 tbsp 12½ tbsp
Tomato juice or ketchup to taste
Worcester sauce (optional) 2–3 drops 5–8 drops
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Flavoured oils
12 Herb oil
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13 Basil oil
Variation
Basil extract can be used in place of fresh basil; 50 g of
grated Parmesan or Gorgonzola cheese may also be
added to the basil oil.
14 Lemon oil
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15 Mint oil
16 Vanilla oil
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17 Walnut oil
18 Tomato chutney
1 Peel and coarsely chop the tomatoes, then 2 Stir over heat without boiling until the sugar
combine with the remaining ingredients in a large dissolves. Simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally
heavy-duty saucepan. until the mixture thickens (about 1½ hours).
3 Place in hot, sterilised jars. Seal while hot.
Serve with cheese, cold meats or terrines.
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19 Beetroot relish
1 Mix the chopped beetroot and onion together, 2 Mix the flour with the remaining vinegar and
add the sugar, salt, allspice and 375 ml of the whisk together well. (Make sure it is smooth and
vinegar to a large saucepan. Bring to the boil and does not contain any lumps.) Add to the beetroot
simmer for 30 minutes. mixture. Stir until it is all well blended and thickens.
3 Place in hot sterilised jars. Seal while still hot.
1 Place the dried tamarind into a suitable bowl and seeds, dates, tamarind liquid and vinegar, and
pour over the boiling water; allow to stand for bring to the boil. Simmer for 5 minutes
30 minutes. until almost dry.
2 Strain the liquid, pressing to extract all moisture, 4 Purée in a processor until smooth.
then discard the tamarind. 5 Place the hot relish into hot sterilised jars.
3 Heat the oil in a suitable saucepan. Cook the Seal while hot.
mustard seeds until they pop, then add the cumin
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22 Mixed pickle
Ingredient
1 To make the spiced vinegar, tie the spices in 4 Peel the marrow, remove the seeds and cut into
muslin, place them in a covered pan with the small squares, sprinkle and salt, and let it stand
vinegar and heat slowly to boiling point. for 12 hours.
2 Remove from the heat and stand for 2 hours, then 5 Drain the vegetables, pack them into jars, and
remove the bag. cover with cold spiced vinegar.
3 Prepare the vegetables, with the exception of the 6 Cover the jars and allow the pickle to mature for
marrow, and soak them in brine for 24 hours. at least a month before use.
587
23 Pesto
Variation
Use flat-leaved parsley in place of basil and walnuts in
place of pine nuts.
Note
Pesto is traditionally served with large flat pasta called
1 Place all ingredients into a food processor and Trenetta.
mix to a rough-textured sauce.
Pesto is also used as a cordon in various fish and meat-
2 Transfer to a bowl and leave for at least 1 hour to plated dishes, e.g. grilled fish, medallions of veal.
enable the flavours to develop.
24 Tapenade
4 portions 10 portions
Garlic cloves, crushed/chopped 1 3
Capers 45 g 110 g
Lemon juice 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
Anchovy fillets, chopped 6 15
Black olives, chopped 250 g 625 g
Parsley, chopped 1 tsp 2 tsp
Salt and pepper Pinch Pinch
Virgin olive oil 4 tbsp 10 tbsp
Roast cumin and chopped red chilli,
to garnish
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
773 kJ 188 kcal 19.8 g 2.9 g 0.3 g 0.1 g 2.0 g 2.7 g 2.0 g
588
25 Celeriac remoulade
Note
Used as an accompaniment to pâtés or terrines, either
by itself or mixed with remoulade sauce (recipe 7).
1 Wash and peel the celeriac. Cut into fine julienne.
2 Combine with the remoulade juice (lemon,
Healthy eating tips
mustard, seasoning) and the remainder of the Use natural yoghurt rather than mayonnaise/cream.
ingredients.
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Salads
26 Salad leaves
As these are eaten raw they may contain live food- Chicory (endive belge)
poisoning bacteria; they must be thoroughly washed
to remove any soil. 1 Trim off the root end.
2 Cut into 1 cm lengths; wash well and drain.
Lettuce (laitue) and iceberg lettuce
1 Trim off the root and remove the outside leaves.
Curled chicory (endive frisée)
Thoroughly wash and trim off the stalk. Drain well.
2 Wash thoroughly and drain well.
3 The outer leaves can be pulled off and the hearts
cut into quarters. Watercress (cresson)
Watercress, as the name suggests, is grown in water
Cos lettuce (laitue romaine) and, as there is always the danger that the water may
have been polluted, it must be washed thoroughly in
1 Trim off the root end and remove the outside leaves. clean water.
2 Wash thoroughly and drain well. Trim off the stalk ends, discard any discoloured leaves,
3 Cut into quarters. wash thoroughly and drain.
590
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30 Radishes (radis)
Allow 3–5 radishes per portion.
1 Trim the green stems to about 2 cm long. Cut off
the root end.
2 Wash well, drain. Cut into thin slices or serve
whole. Dress neatly.
31 Cucumber
Note
This should not be served as a single hors d’oeuvre or
main course.
Professional tip
To remove indigestible juices from the cucumber, slice
and lightly sprinkle with salt. Allow the salt to draw out
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions the water for approximately 1 hour, wash well under
Cucumber ½ 1¼ cold water and drain. This will make the cucumber limp.
Vinaigrette 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
Healthy eating tips
80 kJ 20 kcal 1.7 g 0.2 g 0.7 g 0.7 g 0.3 g 0.3 g 0.0 g l Vegetable-based salads are a healthy way to start
a meal.
l Add the minimum amount of salt.
592
32 Tomatoes (tomates)
593
Professional tip
Blanch the tomatoes so that you can remove the skins,
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
which are hard to digest.
112 kJ 27 kcal 2.0 g 0.3 g 1.9 g 1.8 g 0.5 g 0.6 g
Professional tip
l To cook the beetroot, blanch and then simmer it.
1 Combine all the ingredients, except the parsley, l Wear gloves when handling beetroot to avoid staining
blanching the onion if required. the skin.
2 Dress neatly and sprinkle with the chopped
parsley.
Variation
Add 60–120 ml mayonnaise or natural yoghurt in place of
vinaigrette (150–200 ml for 10 portions).
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36 Coleslaw
Using mayonnaise.
Professional tip
Cook the beans al dente, so that the salad will have a
crunchy texture.
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38 Potato salad
Professional tip
Mixing the potato, onion and mayonnaise gives a good
flavour and texture, but be careful not to mix them too
much or the potatoes will break up.
39 Waldorf salad
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
657 kJ 159 kcal 14.0 g 1.8 g 7.0 g 6.9 g 1.6 g 2.2 g 0.1 g
596
1 Dice celery or celeriac and crisp russet apples. When mixing in the mayonnaise, add just enough to
2 Mix with shelled and peeled walnuts and bind give the right texture and flavour.
with mayonnaise.
Healthy eating tips
3 Dress on quarters or leaves of lettuce (may also Try using some yoghurt in place of the mayonnaise,
be served in hollowed-out apples). which will proportionally reduce the fat.
Using mayonnaise.
1 Peel and wash the carrots and turnips, cut into Do not overcook the vegetables, and drain them well
0.5 cm dice or batons. before adding the dressing – otherwise the salad will
2 Cook separately in salted water, refresh and drain be too wet.
well.
Healthy eating tips
3 Top and tail the beans, and cut into 0.5 cm dice; l Try half mayonnaise and half natural yoghurt.
cook, refresh and drain well. l Season with the minimum amount of salt.
4 Cook the peas, refresh and drain well.
5 Mix all the well-drained vegetables with vinaigrette
and then mayonnaise.
6 Correct the seasoning. Dress neatly.
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41 Greek-style mushrooms
Professional tip
Simmer the vegetables carefully so that they are
correctly cooked and absorb the flavours.
598
43 Three-bean salad
For 4 portions.
1 Rinse the lentils and place in a saucepan. Add Olive oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
the bay leaf and cover with water. Bring to the boil Balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
and simmer for 20–30 minutes until tender. Clear honey 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
2 Drain and then place in a bowl. Add the spring Garlic clove, crushed and chopped 1 2½
onions, red pepper, parsley and cherry tomatoes;
mix well. Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
907 kJ 216 kcal 9.2 g 4.1 g 22.8 g 10.5 g 11.9 g 4.5 g
3 For the dressing, whisk together in a bowl the oil,
vinegar, honey and garlic, and stir into the lentils.
4 Serve on a bed of rocket, with the goats’ cheese Note
sprinkled over. This dish provides a healthy, balanced starter.
599
For 4 portions.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
Red dessert apple, chopped but 1 2½
1,127 kJ 270 kcal 16.3 g 2.3 g 28.1 g 6.9 g 4.2 g 3.5 g 0.3 g
not peeled
Walnuts, finely chopped 25 g 60 g
Mixed peppers, deseeded, cut into 25 g 60 g
fine dice
600
1 Place the rice into a saucepan with a sprinkle of 4 While the rice is cooling, blanch the tomatoes,
salt and cover with boiling water. remove the skins and cut into quarters. Remove
2 Bring the water back to the boil; stir once, put a the seeds and cut in 0.5 cm dice.
lid on and simmer very gently for approximately 5 Once the rice is cool, mix in the tomatoes and
35–40 minutes, until all the liquid has been all the other ingredients, adding the remaining
absorbed. vinaigrette. Check the seasoning and keep in a
3 Empty the rice into a salad bowl, fluff it up with cool place until needed.
a fork and pour three-quarters of the vinaigrette
over while it’s still hot. Leave to cool.
1 Prepare the roasted vegetables. 8 Serve in a suitable bowl or use individual plates.
2 Place the couscous in a suitable bowl and gently For plated service, arrange the couscous neatly
pour over 300 ml of boiling water (750 ml for in the centre of the plate, arrange the roasted
10 portions). vegetables around, then garnish with fresh herbs.
3 Stir well, cover and leave to stand for 5 minutes.
Professional tip
4 Separate the grains with a fork. When adding the vinegar and oil, add just enough to
5 Add the balsamic vinegar, olive oil, lemon juice give the correct texture and flavour.
and seasoning.
6 Mix well, then stir in the chopped herbs.
Healthy eating tips
7 Finish by adding the roasted vegetables. l Use an unsaturated oil and lightly brush the
vegetables when roasting.
l Use the minimum amount of salt.
601
48 Caesar salad
602
49 Niçoise salad
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,462 kJ 354 kcal 34.4 g 7.6 g 2.4 g 0.7 g 9.0 g 4.9 g 1.0 g
1 Grill the bacon rashers under a salamander until 3 Halve the avocados lengthways, remove the
crisp. Transfer to a tray lined with kitchen paper stones and peel the skin. Place the avocados on to
and allow to cool. a chopping board, cut side down, and cut in half
2 Place the lemon juice and garlic in a mixing bowl lengthways, then crossways into slices 1 cm thick.
and whisk in the olive oil. Season with salt and 4 Layer the avocados, bacon and snow pea
pepper. sprouts on serving plates, drizzling the dressing
between the layers. Serve immediately.
603
51 Smoked salmon
Note
Other smoked fish served as hors d’oeuvres include
halibut, eel, conger eel, trout, mackerel, herring
(buckling), cod’s roe and sprats.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
149 kJ 36 kcal 1.1 g 0.3 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 6.4 g 0.0 g
Healthy eating tips
Oily fish (such as salmon, trout, mackerel, rollmops
and sprats) are high in omega-3 fatty acids, which are
beneficial for health.
52 Oysters
Ingredient 4 portions
Rock or native oysters 24
Lemon 1
To accompany
Brown bread and butter
Note
Make sure the oysters have been grown in or fished
from clean waters, and take note of the famous rule only
to use them when there is an ‘r’ in the month, although
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium rock oysters are available throughout the year.
192 kJ 45 kcal 0.9 g 0.2 g 2.7 g 1.0 g 6.8 g 0.4 g 0.3 g
Excluding accompaniments.
604
1 Select only those oysters that are tightly shut 4 Once the lid has been penetrated, push down.
and have a fresh smell (category A is best, which The lid should pop open. Lift up the top shell,
means the waters they have grown in are clean). cutting the muscle attached to it.
2 To open an oyster, only the point of the oyster 5 Remove any splintered shell from the flesh and
knife is used. Hold the oyster with a thick oven solid shell.
cloth to protect your hand. 6 Return each oyster to its shell and serve on a bed
3 With the oyster in the palm of your hand, push the of crushed ice with chilli sauce, brown bread and
point of the knife about 1 cm deep into the ‘hinge’ lemon.
between the ‘lid’ and the body of the oyster.
53 Dressed crab
Ingredient 1 portion
Whole crab, cooked 1 (200–300 g)
Salt, pepper
Worcester sauce
Mayonnaise
Fresh white breadcrumbs
Decoration as required, e.g. parsley and hard-boiled egg
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,974 kJ 474 kcal 28.6 g 4.4 g 0.8 g 0.7 g 53.1 g 0.7 g 1.2 g
1 Remove large claws and sever at the joints. 9 Trim the shell by tapping carefully along the
2 Remove the flexible pincer from the claw. natural line.
3 Crack or saw carefully and remove all flesh. 10 Scrub the shell thoroughly and leave to dry.
4 Remove flesh from two remaining joints with the 11 Dress the brown meat down the centre of the shell.
handle of spoon. 12 Shred the white meat, taking care to remove any
5 Carefully remove the soft undershell. small pieces of shell.
6 Discard the gills (dead man’s fingers) and the sac 13 Dress neatly on either side of the brown meat.
behind the eyes. 14 Decorate as desired, using any of the following:
7 Scrape out all the inside of the shell and pass chopped parsley, hard-boiled white and yolk of
through a sieve. egg, anchovies, capers, olives.
8 Season with salt, pepper, Worcester sauce and a 15 Serve the crab on a flat dish garnished with lettuce
little mayonnaise; thicken lightly with fresh white leaves, quarters of tomato and the crab’s legs.
breadcrumbs. 16 Serve a vinaigrette or mayonnaise sauce separately.
605
54 Cold salmon
606
Cooking and presenting 8 Allow the cooked salmon to cool, then remove it
from the liquid. Carefully remove the skin and the
salmon whole dark layer under the skin (which is cooked blood).
1 Scrape off all scales, from tail to head, using the The now bared salmon flesh should be perfectly
back of a knife. smooth.
2 Remove all gills and clean out the head. 9 Make sure the salmon is well drained and place it
on to the serving dish or board.
3 Remove the intestines and clear the blood from
the backbone. 10 The salmon is now ready for decorating and
garnishing. Keep this to the minimum and avoid
4 Trim off all fins. Wash well.
over-covering the fish and the dish. Neatly
5 Place in a salmon kettle and cover with cold court overlapping thin slices of cucumber (the skin
bouillon. may be left on or removed), quartered tomatoes
6 Bring slowly to the boil, skim, then simmer very (which can be peeled and neatly cut), small
gently. pieces of hearts of lettuce can, if artistically
7 Allow the following approximate simmering times: set out, give a quick, neat-looking, appetising
• 3.5 kg – 15 minutes appearance. Remember though, time is money –
• 7 kg – 20 minutes there is no justification for spending a lot of time
• 10.5 kg – 25 minutes cutting fiddly little pieces of many different items
• 14 kg – 30 minutes. to form patterns that often look untidy.
Salt, pepper
For 4 portions.
607
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Crunchy raw salad of carrot, fennel
540 kJ 128 kcal 3.8 g 0.6 g 3.8 g 3.5 g 19.8 g 0.5 g 0.3 g and celeriac
1 In a shallow, non-metallic tray, combine all the 4 To finish, lay the fish neatly on a plate with a little
ingredients except the fish. of the curing garnish and juice.
2 Slice the fish at a 45 degree angle, 5 mm thick. 5 Season with a little sea salt and serve with a
3 Place the fish into the curing liquid. Refrigerate for crunchy salad.
20 minutes until the edges of the fish turn white
(do not leave too long as the fish will cure through Note
and resemble rollmops). Yuzu is a citrus fruit grown in east Asia – the juice is
available in bottles.
608
1 Clean, scale and fillet the fish. 7 Cover with greaseproof paper and cook in a
2 Wash the fillets well and season with salt and moderate oven for 15–20 minutes.
pepper. 8 Allow to cool, place in a dish with the onion and
3 Roll up with the skin outside. Place in an carrot.
earthenware dish. 9 Garnish with picked parsley, dill or chives.
4 Peel and wash the onion. Cut the onion and
carrots into neat, thin rings. Healthy eating tips
l Serve with plenty of salad vegetables and bread or
5 Blanch for 2–3 minutes. toast (optional butter or spread).
6 Add to the fish with the remainder of the l Keep added salt to a minimum.
ingredients.
609
59 Potted shrimps
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Put the butter, chives and cayenne pepper in a
medium-sized pan and leave to melt over a
Butter 100 g 250 g
gentle heat.
Chives, chopped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
2 Add the peeled shrimps and stir over the heat
Cayenne pepper, to taste
for a couple of minutes until they have heated
Brown shrimps, peeled 600 g 1.5 kg through, but don’t let the mixture boil.
Clarified butter 6 tbsp 15 tbsp 3 Divide the shrimps and butter between four small
ramekins. Level the tops and then leave them to
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
set in the refrigerator.
3,887 kJ 942 kcal 92.9 g 58.1 g 1.1 g 0.7 g 25.7 g 0.1 g 0.9 g
4 Spoon over a thin layer of clarified butter and
This is a real seaside dish, full of flavour and eaten leave to set once more. Serve with plenty of
with plenty of brown bread and butter. Lobster or brown toast or crusty brown bread.
langoustine can be used – although timings will need
to be adapted accordingly. The traditional seasoning
Professional tip
for potted shrimps is ground mace.
l Do not let the mixture boil (step 2) – if it does, the
shrimps will become tough.
l Remove from the fridge and allow to warm slightly
before serving, to bring out the flavour.
610
60 Fruits de mer
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3,440 kJ 828 kcal 56.5 g 8.7 g 6.8 g 3.7 g 65.6 g 0.9 g 2.3 g
611
61 Chicken salad
1 Place the chicken in a large saucepan and cover 4 Dry fry the cumin and almonds in a hot pan and
with water. leave to cool.
2 Add the peppercorns and bay leaves and bring 5 To make the dressing, mix the yoghurt,
to a gentle simmer. Poach gently for about mayonnaise and lemon zest and juice in a large
40 minutes and leave it to cool in the liquid. bowl.
3 Once cool, take the chicken out of the pan, 6 Add the chicken, cucumber, cumin and almonds
remove the skin and shred the meat. Cover and with the torn basil. Mix well and serve on a bed of
place in a refrigerator. the mixed salad leaves tossed lightly in vinaigrette.
612
613
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Proceed as for raised pork pie (recipe 62) but place the
607 kJ 144 kcal 4.5 g 1.5 g 3.8 g 0.8 g 22.4 g 0.1 g shelled egg in the centre of the mixture. Serve when
cold, garnished with picked watercress and offer a
suitable salad.
Partly fill the pie, then place egg(s) into the Add the pastry lid and seal it firmly Pour gelatine dissolved in stock into the pie
centre after baking
614
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 6 Place the mixture into the terrine. Cover with fat
bacon.
Liver (chicken, pig, calf, lamb, etc.) 100 g 250 g
7 Stand in a tray half-full of water and bring to
Butter or oil 25 g 60 g
simmering point.
Onion, chopped 10 g 25 g
8 Cook in a moderate oven for 1 hour. Use a
Cloves of garlic 1 2½
temperature probe to check that the centre
Sprigs of parsley, thyme, chervil reaches 70 °C.
Fat pork 50 g 125 g 9 Blast chill. When quite cold, cut into 0.5 cm slices
Salt, pepper and serve on lettuce leaves. Usually served
Fat bacon 25 g 60 g accompanied with freshly made toast.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Note
896 kJ 213 kcal 19.1 g 8.5 g 0.7 g 0.1 g 9.8 g 0.0 g
This is a typical recipe for a homemade terrine, often
1 Cut the liver into 2 cm pieces. seen on the menu as pâté maison.
615
Ingredient 12 portions
Collar of bacon 1 kg
Carrot 1
Onion clouté 1
Bouquet garni 1
Celery 2 sticks
Peppercorns 8
Fresh spinach 500 g
Butter 50 g
Mushrooms (preferably morels) 200 g
1 If necessary soak the bacon overnight. Drain. 9 Line the terrine with cling film, then the spinach
2 Place the bacon in cold water, bring to the boil, leaves. Layer with bacon, mushrooms and
add the carrot, onion, bouquet garni, celery and spinach. Cover with spinach leaves and cling film.
peppercorns. Wait for 12 hours or overnight.
3 Simmer until tender. 10 When ready, turn out, slice and serve on plates,
with leek and mushroom vinaigrette served
4 Pick some large leaves of spinach to line the
separately.
terrine dish. Blanch the leaves, refresh and drain.
5 Lightly cook the rest of the spinach gently; Healthy eating tips
refresh, drain and shred. l Soaking the bacon overnight will remove some of
6 Alternatively, shred the spinach raw, quickly cook the salt.
l Use only a little butter to cook the mushrooms.
in butter, drain and then blast chill.
l Use a minimum amount of salt to season the
7 Cook the mushrooms in a little butter, season and vinaigrette.
chill well. l Serve with warm bread rolls, butter optional.
616
Bread products
66 Sandwiches
For speed of production, sandwiches are made in Bookmaker sandwich
bands by cutting the bread lengthways. Once filled, the
This is an underdone minute steak between two slices
crusts are removed and the sandwiches cut into fingers.
of hot buttered toast.
Today, bakers will bake bread to your specification
and slice it ready for use. The specification may also
include speciality breads such as tomato, basil, walnut Double- and triple-decker
and olive bread. sandwiches
Sandwiches may be made from every kind of bread,
Toasted and untoasted bread can be made into
fresh or toasted, in a variety of shapes, and with an almost
double-decker sandwiches, using three slices of
endless assortment of fillings. They may be garnished
bread with two separate fillings. Triple- and quadro-
with potato or vegetable crisps and a little salad.
decker sandwiches may also be prepared. They may
Sandwiches may also be cut into small cubes and a
be served hot or cold.
variety placed on a cocktail stick like a mini kebab.
617
67 Wraps
68 Bagels
618
69 Canapés
Canapés are usually offered with drinks before meals or Some examples of hot canapés (not shown) are as
at a drinks reception. They need to be small, attractive follows:
and well flavoured. A wide variety of cold canapés l small Yorkshire puddings with a slice of beef
can be offered. Just a few examples are shown in the topped with horseradish cream
photo: l oyster beignets with garlic mayonnaise
l vichyssoise (see page 76) with potato foam l aubergine and goats’ cheese tartlet
l aubergine and pine nut fritters with chilli jam l monkfish spring rolls with remoulade sauce
l chive pancake, red onion confit and crème fraiche l chicken and risotto croquettes
roulade l small pizzas
l buckwheat blini with fromage blanc, smoked l small pieces of chicken on skewers with bacon
salmon and avruga caviar l chicken satay
l sashimi beef with wasabi and toasted sesame l angels on horseback (oysters wrapped with bacon)
seeds on a croûte l vegetable samosas (see page 241)
l rosemary shortbread with feta cheese, black olives l latkes.
and sun-roasted cherry tomato Dips for hot canapés may include:
l pumpernickel croûte with salmon tartare l garlic mayonnaise
l lemon and saffron chicken bruschetta l yoghurt, cucumber and mint
l Thai swordfish bonbon with samphire. l apricot chutney.
619
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Glossary
à la In the style of Beansprouts Young shoots of dried beans, e.g. mung beans,
à la française In the French style alfalfa or soybeans
à la minute Cooked to order Beurre manié Equal quantities of flour and butter used for
thickening sauces
à la carte Dishes prepared to order and priced individually
Blanc A cooking liquor of water, lemon juice, flour and salt;
Abatis de volaille Poultry offal, giblets, etc.
also used to describe the white of chicken (breast and wings)
Abats Offal: heads, hearts, liver, kidney, etc.
Blanch
Accompaniments Items offered separately with a dish of food l To make something white (referring to bones and meat)
Agar-agar A vegetable gelling agent obtained from l To cook but retain colour (referring to certain vegetables)
seaweed, used as a substitute for gelatine l To skin (referring to tomatoes)
Aile A wing (of poultry or game birds) l To make limp (referring to certain braised vegetables)
l To cook without colour, e.g. the first frying of fried potatoes
Aloyau de boeuf Sirloin of beef
(chips)
Ambient Room temperature, surrounding atmosphere
Blanquette A white stew cooked in stock from which the
Amino acid Organic acids found in proteins sauce is made
Antibiotic A drug used to destroy disease-producing germs Blitz To rapidly purée or foam a light sauce, generally using
within human or animal bodies an electric hand blender at the last moment before service
Antiseptic A substance that prevents the growth of bacteria Bombay duck Small, dried, salted fish; fried, it is used as an
and moulds, specifically on or in the human body accompaniment to curry dishes
Aromats Fragrant herbs and spices Bombe An ice cream speciality of different flavours in a bomb
Arroser To baste, for example during roasting shape
Ascorbic acid Known as Vitamin C; found in citrus fruits and Bone out To remove the bones
blackcurrants; necessary for growth and the maintenance of Botulism A rare form of food poisoning
health
Bouchée A small puff paste case, literally ‘a mouthful’
Aspic A savoury jelly mainly used for decorative larder work
Bouillon Unclarified stock
Assorti An assortment
Bouquet garni A bundle of herbs (e.g. parsley stalks, thyme
Au bleu When applied to meat, this means very underdone and bay leaf), tied in pieces of celery and leek
Au beurre With butter Brine A preserving solution of water, salt, saltpetre and
Au four Baked in the oven aromats, used for meats (e.g. silverside, brisket, tongue)
Au gratin Sprinkled with cheese or breadcrumbs and then Brunoise Small dice
browned Buttermilk Liquid remaining from the churning of butter
Au vin blanc With white wine Calcium A mineral required for building bones and teeth,
Bactericide A substance that destroys bacteria obtained from cheese and milk
Bacterium (plural: bacteria) Single-celled micro-organisms: Calorie A unit of heat or energy, known as a kilocalorie
some are harmful and cause food poisoning; others are useful, Canapé Traditionally, a cushion of bread on which are
such as those used in cheese making served various foods, hot or cold; also used to describe small,
Bain-marie attractive, well-flavoured dishes offered before a meal or at a
l A container of water to keep foods hot without burning them drinks reception
l A container of water for cooking foods without burning them
Carbohydrate A nutrient; there are three types of
l A deep, narrow container for storing hot sauces, soups and
carbohydrate – sugar and starch, which provide the body with
gravies energy, and cellulose, which provides roughage (dietary fibre)
Barding Covering the breasts of birds with thin slices of bacon Carbon dioxide A gas produced by all raising agents
Barquette A boat-shaped pastry case Carrier A person who harbours and may transmit pathogenic
Basting Spooning melted fat over food during cooking to organisms without showing signs of illness
keep it moist Carte du jour Menu for the day
Bat out To flatten slices of raw meat with a cutlet bat Casserole An earthenware, fireproof dish with a lid
Bean curd Also known as tofu (see below); a curdled, soft, Cellulose The coarse structure of fruit, vegetables and cereals
cheese-like preparation made from soybean milk; a good that is not digested but is used as roughage (dietary fibre)
source of protein
621
Châteaubriand The head of the fillet of beef Cuisse de poulet Chicken leg
Chaud-froid A demi-glace or creamed velouté with gelatine Danger zone of bacterial growth The temperature
or aspic added, used for masking cold dishes range within which pathogenic bacteria are able to multiply;
Chiffonade Fine shreds, e.g. of spinach, lettuce between 10 and 63 °C
Chinois A conical strainer Dariole A small mould, as used for crème caramel
Chlorophyll The green colour in vegetables Darne A slice of round fish (e.g. salmon) on the bone
Ciseler To make slight incisions in the surface of a thick fillet Déglacer (to deglaze) To swill out a pan in which food has
of fish, on or off the bone, to allow even cooking been roasted or fried, with wine, stock or water, in order to use
the sediment for the accompanying sauce or gravy
Civet A brown stew of game, usually hare
Dégraisser To skim fat off liquid
Clarification/to clarify To make something clear, such as
stock, jelly or butter Delivery note A form sent by a supplier with the delivery of
goods
Clostridium perfringens Food-poisoning bacterium found
in the soil, vegetables and meat Demi-glace A brown stock reduced to a light consistency
Coagulation The solidification of protein; it is irreversible; Désosser To bone out meat
examples occur when frying an egg or cooking meat Detergent A substance that dissolves grease
Cocotte Porcelain or earthenware fireproof dish Dilute To mix a powder (e.g. cornflour) with a liquid
Collagen/elastin Proteins in connective tissue (e.g. gristle) Disinfectant A substance that reduces the risk of infection
Compote Stewed (e.g. stewed fruit) Doily A fancy dish paper
Concassé Coarsely chopped (e.g. parsley, tomatoes) Drain To place food in a colander, allowing liquid to seep out
Confit Cooked meat, poultry or game preserved in good fat Duxelle Finely chopped mushrooms cooked with chopped
or oil shallots
Consommé A simple, clear soup Eggwash Beaten egg with a little milk or water
Contamination The occurrence of any objectionable matter Emulsion A mixture of liquid (e.g. vinegar) and oil, which
in food does not separate when left to stand (e.g. mayonnaise,
Contrefilet Boned-out sirloin of beef hollandaise)
Cook out The process of cooking flour in a roux, soup or sauce Entrecôte A steak cut from a boned sirloin
Cordon A thread or thin line of sauce Enzymes Chemical substances produced from living cells
Correcting Adjusting the seasoning, consistency and colour Escalope A thin slice such as escalope of veal
Côte A rib or chop Farce Stuffing
Côtelette A cutlet Fecule Fine potato flour
Coulis Sauce made of fruit or vegetable puree (e.g. raspberry, Feuilletage Puff pastry
tomato) Fines herbes Chopped fresh herbs (e.g. parsley, tarragon,
Coupe An individual serving bowl chervil)
Couper To cut First aid materials Suitable and sufficient bandages and
dressings, including waterproof dressings and antiseptic; all
Court bouillon A well-flavoured cooking liquor for fish
dressings must be individually wrapped
Crème fraiche Whipping cream and buttermilk heated to
Flake To break something into natural segments (e.g. fish)
24–29 °C
Flan An open tart
Crêpes Pancakes
Fleurons Small, crescent-shaped pieces of puff pastry
Credit note Issued when an invoice contains incorrect
details; credit is therefore given Flute A 20 cm diameter French bread used for soup garnishes
Croquettes Cooked foods moulded into a cylinder shape, Food-borne Bacteria carried on food
coated in flour and egg, crumbed and deep-fried Food handling Any operation in the storage, preparation,
Cross-contamination The transfer of micro-organisms from production, processing, packaging, transportation, distribution
contaminated to uncontaminated hands, utensils or equipment and sale of food
Croutons Cubes of fried or toasted bread served with soup; Frappé Chilled (e.g. melon frappé)
also triangular pieces served with spinach, and heart-shaped Freezer burn Affects frozen items, which are spoiled due to
pieces with certain dishes being left unprotected for too long
Crudités Small, neat pieces of raw vegetables served with a Friandises Sweetmeats, petits fours
dip as an appetiser
622
Fricassée A white stew in which the meat, poultry or fish is Micro-organisms Very small living plants or animals
cooked in the sauce (bacteria, yeasts, moulds)
Friture A pan that contains deep fat Mignonette Coarsely ground pepper
Fumé Smoked (e.g. saumon fumé is smoked salmon) Mildew A type of fungus, similar to mould
Garam masala A combination of spices Mineral salts Mineral elements, small quantities of which are
Garnish Served as part of the main item; trimmings essential for health
Gastroenteritis Inflammation of the stomach and intestinal Mirepoix Roughly cut vegetables (e.g. onions, leeks, celery
tract that normally results in diarrhoea and carrots), often with a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf, used as
flavouring elements
Gâteau A cake of more than one portion
Mise-en-place Basic preparation before serving
Ghee The Indian name for clarified butter; ghee is pure
butter fat Miso Seasoning made from fermented soybeans
Gibier Game Monosodium glutamate (MSG) A substance added to food
products to increase flavour
Glace Ice or ice cream from which all milk solids have been
removed Moulds Microscopic plants (fungi) that may appear as woolly
patches on food
Glaze
l To colour a dish under the salamander (e.g. fillets of sole Mousse A dish of light consistency, hot or cold
bonne femme) Napper To coat or mask with sauce
l To finish a flan or tartlet (e.g. with apricot jam) Natives A menu term for English oysters
l To finish certain vegetables (e.g. glazed carrots)
Navarin Brown stew of lamb
Gluten This is formed from the protein in flour when mixed
Niacin Part of Vitamin B; found in liver, kidney, meat extract,
with water
bacon
Gratin A thin coating of grated cheese and/or breadcrumbs
Noisette (nut) A cut from a boned-out loin of lamb
on certain dishes, which is then browned under the grill or in
an oven Nutrients The components of food required for health:
protein, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins, mineral salts, water
Haché Finely chopped or minced
Optimum Best, most favourable
Hazard Something that could cause injury, ill health or harm
Palatable Pleasant to taste
Hors d’oeuvre Appetising first course dishes, hot or cold
Pané Floured, dipped in egg and crumbed
Humidity The amount of moisture in the air
Panettone A very light, traditional Italian Christmas cake
Incubation period The time between infection and the first
signs of illness Parsley butter Butter containing lemon juice and chopped
parsley
Infestations Pests breeding on the premises
Pass To put through a sieve or strainer
Insecticide A chemical used to kill insects
Pathogen A disease-producing organism
Invoice A bill listing items delivered, with the costs of the items
Paupiette A stuffed and rolled strip of fish or meat
Jardinière Cut into batons
Paysanne Cut in even, thin, triangular, round or square pieces
Julienne Cut into fine strips
Persillé Finished with chopped parsley
Jus-lié Thickened gravy
Pesticide A chemical used to kill pests
Larding Inserting strips of fat bacon into meat
Pests Unwanted creatures that may enter food premises, e.g.
Lardons Batons of thick streaky bacon
cockroaches, flies, silverfish
Liaison A thickening or binding
Petits fours Very small pastries, biscuits, sweets, sweetmeats
Macédoine
pH value A scale indicating the acidity or alkalinity in food
l A mixture of fruit or vegetables
l Cut into 0.5 cm dice
Phosphorus A mineral element found in fish; required for
building bones and teeth
Magnetron A device that generates microwaves in a
microwave oven Piquant Sharply flavoured
Marinade A richly spiced pickling liquid used to give flavour Piqué Studded clove in an onion
and assist in tenderising meats Plat du jour Special dish of the day
Marmite A stock pot Poppadoms Dried, thin, large, round wafers made from lentil
Mascarpone An Italian cheese resembling clotted cream flour, used as an accompaniment to Indian dishes
623
Protein The nutrient needed for growth and repair Spores The resistant resting phase of bacteria, protecting
Prove To allow a yeast dough to rest in a warm place so that them against adverse conditions such as high temperatures
it can expand Staphylococcus A food-poisoning bacterium found in the
Pulses Vegetables grown in pods (peas and beans) and dried; human nose and throat, and also in septic cuts
a source of protein and roughage Starch A carbohydrate found in cereals, certain vegetables
Quark A salt-free soft cheese made from semi-skimmed milk and farinaceous foods
Ragout A stew, for example ragout de boeuf is brown beef stew Sterile Free from all living organisms
Rare When applied to meat, it means underdone Sterilisation A process that destroys living organisms
Réchauffer To reheat Steriliser A chemical used to destroy all living organisms
Reduce To concentrate a liquid by boiling Stock rotation The sequence of issuing goods, so that the
first into store are the first to be issued
Refresh To make cold under running cold water
Strain To separate the liquid from the solids by passing
Residual insecticide An insecticide that remains active for a
through a strainer
considerable period of time
Sweat To cook in fat under a lid without colour
Riboflavin Vitamin B2; found in yeast, liver, eggs, cheese
Syneresis The squeezing out of liquid from an overcooked
Risk The likelihood that a hazard will cause injury, ill health or
protein and liquid mixture (e.g. scrambled egg, egg custard)
harm
Table d’hôte A meal at a fixed price; a set menu
Rissoler To fry to a golden brown
Tahini A strong-flavoured sesame seed paste
Rodents Rats and mice
Tartlet A small, round pastry case
Roux A thickening of cooked flour and fat
Terrine An earthenware dish used for cooking and serving
Sabayon Egg yolks and a little water or wine, cooked until
pâté; also used as a name for certain products
creamy
Thiamine Vitamin B1; it assists the nervous system; found in
Saccharometer An instrument for measuring the density of
yeast, bacon, wholemeal bread
sugar
Timbale A double serving dish
Salamander A type of grill, heated from above
Tofu Low-fat bean curd made from soybeans
Salmonella A food-poisoning bacterium found in meat and
poultry Tourné Turned, shaped in barrels or large olive shapes
Sanitiser A chemical agent used for cleaning and Tranche A slice
disinfecting surfaces and equipment Trichinosis A disease caused by hair-like worms in the
Sauté muscles of meat (e.g. pork)
l Toss in fat (e.g. pommes sautées) Tronçon A slice of flat fish on the bone (e.g. turbot)
l Cook quickly in a sauté pan or frying pan TVP Texturised vegetable protein, derived from soybeans
l A brown stew of a specific type (e.g. veal sauté)
Vegan A person who does not eat fish, meat, poultry, game,
Seal To place meat in a hot oven or pan to colour the surface dairy products, honey and eggs, and who does not use any
and retain the juices animal products (e.g. leather)
Seared Cooked quickly on both sides in a little hot fat or oil Vegetarian A person who does not eat meat, poultry or game
Seasoned flour Flour seasoned with salt and pepper Velouté
Set l A basic sauce
l To seal the outside surface l A soup of velvety or smooth consistency
l To allow to become firm or firmer (e.g. jelly) Viruses Microscopic pathogens that multiply in the living
Shredded Cut in fine strips (e.g. lettuce, onion) cells of their host
Silicone paper Non-stick paper (e.g. siliconised paper) Vitamins Chemical substances that assist the regulation of
Singe To brown or colour body processes
Smetana A low-fat product; a cross between soured cream Vol-au-vent A large puff pastry case
and yoghurt Wok A round-bottomed pan used extensively in Chinese
Sodium Mineral element in the form of salt (sodium chloride); cooking
found in cheese, bacon, fish, meat Yeast extract A mixture of brewer’s yeast and salt, high in
Soufflé A very light dish, sweet or savoury, hot or cold flavour and protein
Soy sauce Made from soybeans; used extensively in Chinese Yoghurt An easily digested fermented milk product
cookery
624
Index of recipes
apples cottage pie 253 doughnuts 433
baked 537 goulash 266 hot cross buns 432
charlotte 538–9 grilled 254 savarin dough 434–5
crumble tartlets 547 Hamburg or Vienna steak 258 savarin syrup 434
flan 454 hamburger, American style 254–5 savarin with fruit 436
fritters 539 jus 94–5 Swiss buns 433
pancakes with 537 oxtail, braised 292–3 cabbage 386
purée 482 silverside, boiled, with carrots and coleslaw 595
sauce 98 dumplings 263 red, braised 387
sorbet 535 sirloin, slow-cooked, with lyonnaise onions red, pickled 587
tarte tatin 548 and carrot purée 272 sauerkraut 283–4
turnovers 475 sirloin steak, with red wine 256–7 cakes and sponges
apricots spaghetti bolognaise 142–3 cherry cakes 497
glaze 501 steak pie 268–9 chocolate gâteau 494
artichokes steak pudding 264–5 chocolate genoise sponge 494
globe 390 stroganoff 257 coconut cakes 497
globe, bottoms 388–9 tournedos 256 coffee gâteau 493
Greek-style 598 wing rib, roasted 270 cup cakes 496–7
Jerusalem, in cream sauce 384 Yorkshire pudding 271 fresh cream and strawberry gâteau 492
asparagus beetroot 353–4 genoise sponge 491–2
points or tips 391 and goats’ cheese tarts with salad of lemon drizzle cake 500
in puff pastry with Gruyère 392 watercress 354 madeleines 498
soup 70 relish 586 marzipan 502
aubergines salad 594 praline 503
fried 397 biscuits queen cakes 497
ratatouille 406 brandy snaps 507 raspberry buns 497
ratatouille pancakes with cheese sauce 407 cats’ tongues 505 rich fruit cake 499–500
stuffed 397 cigarette paste cornets 506 rock cakes 498
avocado othellos 504 roulade sponge 495
and bacon salad 603 piped biscuits 508 scones 497
and coriander salsa 102 shortbread 509 Swiss roll 496
bacon sponge fingers 503–4 Victoria sandwich 490
and avocado salad 603 tuiles 504 carrots
boiled 284 blueberries and butterbean soup 79
ham hock, with sauerkraut and lentils 281–3 baked cheesecake 531–2 buttered 352
joint, roasted 288 bread in cream sauce 352–3
tagliatelle carbonara 145 bagels 426 purée 272, 353
terrine, with spinach and mushrooms 616 cholla 427 cauliflower 361
barramundi focaccia 427–8 au gratin 361
with garlic, ginger and lemon butter and naan 429 Greek-style 598
pak choi 204 olive 423–4 celeriac
batters Parmesan rolls 421 buttered 355
frying batters for fish 194 pizza 428–9 purée 356
pancakes with apple 537 red onion and sage rolls 421 remoulade 589
ratatouille pancakes with cheese sauce 407 rye 424–5 cheese
Yorkshire pudding 271 sauce 335 fritters 413
beans seeded rolls 420 macaroni cheese 144
broad beans 363 soda 425 sauce 85
French bean salad 595 sundried tomato 422 soufflé 414
French beans 364 wholemeal 419 straws 469
haricot bean salad 598 brill cherries
three-bean salad 599 poached on the bone 181 cakes 497
beef broad beans 363 griottines clafoutis 540
bordelaise 256–7 broccoli 360 chicken
bourguignon 260–1 Brussels sprouts 388 ballotine with herb stuffing, steamed, with
braised 261–2 buns red wine jus 317–18
carbonnade 259 Bath buns 432 breast, breadcrumbed, with asparagus 312
consommé 81–2 bun dough 430–1 confit leg, with leeks and artichokes 321–2
Cornish pasties 267 bun wash 430 coq au vin 322–3
625
deep-fried 315 ratatouille pancakes with cheese sauce 407 lemon or orange sponge pudding 549
fricassée 318–19 shallow-fried 399 lime and mascarpone cheesecake 531
grilled 309 couscous lime soufflé frappe 529–30
Kiev 315–16 fritters, with feta 133 mango soufflé 554
leg, braised forestière 316–17 with meat and vegetables 132 meringue 528
paella 313–14 salad, with roasted vegetables and mixed orange bavarois 524
palak 314 herbs 601 pancakes with apple 537
pie 323–4 crab raspberry/strawberry bavarois 524
roast chicken jus 95 cakes, with chilli lime dipping sauce 207 raspberry parfait 536
roasted, with dressing 325 cakes, with rocket salad and lemon dressing rice pudding 541
salad 612 208 rice pudding, baked 542
sauté chasseur 310–11 dressed 605 rum/brandy cream or butter 562
soup 69 cranberries sabayon sauce 557
spatchcock 310 and orange dressing for duck 330 soufflé pudding 544
suprême, poached, with Madeira and sauce 99 steamed sponge pudding 549
mushroom café cream sauce 320 cucumber sticky toffee pudding 542–3
tandoori 324–5 salad 592 strawberry sauce 560
terrine with vegetables 332 and tomato salad 594 sultana sponge pudding 549
white stock 56–7 and tomato salsa 101 tarte tatin 548
chicory dates trifle 530
braised 393 and chocolate sponge pudding 549 vacherin with strawberries 528–9
shallow-fried 393 and tamarind relish 586 vanilla bavarois 524
chocolate desserts see also ice cream and sorbets vanilla ice cream 532
bavarois 524 apple charlotte 538–9 vanilla panna cotta with stewed rhubarb
éclairs 461–2 apple crumble tartlets 547 526
and fig/date sponge pudding 549 apple fritters 539 vanilla soufflé 552–3
fondant 544–5 baked Alaska 556 vanilla sponge pudding 549
ganache 480 baked apples 537 zabaglione 522
gâteau 494 baked blueberry cheesecake 531–2 dough products
genoise sponge 494 bavarois 524 bagels 426
ice cream 532 bread and butter pudding 546 Bath buns 432
mousse 525 butterscotch sauce 561 blueberry baba 436
sauce 560–1 cabinet pudding 543 bun dough 430–1
sorbet 535 caramel sauce 562 bun wash 430
soufflé 553 chocolate and fig/date sponge pudding 549 cholla bread 427
sponge pudding 549 chocolate bavarois 524 doughnuts 433
chutneys, pickles and relishes chocolate fondant 544–5 focaccia 427–8
beetroot relish 586 chocolate mousse 525 hot cross buns 432
date and tamarind relish 586 chocolate sauce 560–1 marignans chantilly 436
mixed pickle 587 chocolate soufflé 553 naan bread 429
pickled red cabbage 587 chocolate sponge pudding 549 olive bread 423–4
tomato chutney 209, 585 Christmas pudding 551 Parmesan rolls 421
clams coffee bavarois 524 pizza 428–9
chowder 82 crème anglaise 558 red onion and sage rolls 421
coconut crème brûlée 521 rye bread 424–5
cakes 497 crème caramel 520 savarin dough 434–5
cod custard 559 savarin syrup 434
baked with a herb crust 187 diplomat pudding 543 savarin with fruit 436
boulangère 189 fresh egg custard 558 scones 497
poached on the bone 181 fresh fruit salad 518 seeded bread rolls 420
coffee fruit compote/poached fruit 519 soda bread 425
bavarois 524 fruit coulis 559 sundried tomato bread 422
gâteau 493 fruit fool 527 Swiss buns 433
ice cream 532 fruit mousse 523 wholemeal bread 419
corn on the cob 365 fruit soufflé 553 duck
courgettes ginger sponge pudding 549 breast, with cherries 327
deep-fried 399 golden syrup pudding 550 confit leg, with red cabbage and green
fettuccine, with chopped basil and golden syrup sponge pudding 549 beans 328
balsamic vinegar 400 griottines clafoutis 540 cranberry and orange dressing for 330
flowers 400–1 lemon curd flourless soufflé 555 roasted 329
ratatouille 406 lemon or lime bavarois 524 sage and onion dressing for 330
626
627
628
629
630
Index
accidents blond roux 53 Certificate of Satisfaction 38
causes 1–2 blue peas (marrowfat) 120 chapatti 416
first aid 3–6 blue plasters 22 chateaubriand 223
reporting 4–5, 43 boiling chemicals
aduki beans 119 fish 166–8 food contamination 30
agar-agar 516 pastry products 443 health and safety 4
agnolini 136 sponge cake method 485 chewing gum 21
alcohol 53, 565 bone marrow 234 chicken
allergens 567–8 bookmaker sandwiches 606 core temperatures 216
allergies 30, 567–8 see also food intolerance borlotti beans 119 cuts and joints 298
allergy information 28, 30–1 bouchées 468 nutritional value 307
amuse-bouche 51 bouillabaisse 50 preparation 297–301, 303
anaphylaxis 568 bouillon 48 quality points 297
ants 26 braising/stewing types 296
appraisals 16 fish 167–8 chickpeas 120
aprons 20 game 306–7 chicory 590
arborio rice 117 meat 216, 218, 222, 226–7 cholesterol 567
aromats 50 vegetables 347–8 chopping boards 12, 32, 43
arrowroot 54 bran 117, 121 choux pastry 438
atomised glucose 515 bread 415, 417 see also dough products chowder 50
Bacillus cereus 29, 118 bream 159 churning 515
bacon brill 159 chutneys 574
cuts and joints 231 brioche 416 clams 170
quality points 230 broad beans 119 clarified butter 52
baking broth 49–50 cleaning
fish 167–8 brown roux 53 clean as you go 12
potatoes 349 brown sauce 52 cloths 24–5
baking blind 451 brunoise 343, 345 dishwashing 25
baking powder 440, 484 buckwheat 121 importance 32
ballotines 301 bulb vegetables 340 knives 44
barbecue cooking 224–5 bulk fermentation time 417 procedures 25
barding 305 buns 416 products 24
barley 121 burns 22 refrigerators 27
barracuda 168 butter 438–9 schedules 24
beans 119 butter beans 119 Clostridium botulinum 29
béchamel 52 butter sauces 52–3 Clostridium perfringens 29
beef cakes and sponges clothing 1, 12, 19–20
cooking degrees 225 batters and whisked sponges 485–6 clotted cream 442
core temperatures 216, 225 convenience products 487 club sandwiches 606
cuts, joints and portions 221–2 faults 485–6, 495, 500 coating 161, 488
nutritional value 307 finishing and presentation 488 cockles 170, 173
offal 232–4 methods 483–6 cod 159, 168
preparation 222–5 preparation 486–7 coeliac disease 122, 418, 567
quality points 221 raising agents 484 cold food presentation
best-before dates 28–9 storage 488–9 preparation 572–3
beurre fondu 52 calcium phosphate 440, 484 quality points 572
beurre manié 53 calories 565 storage 573
beurre noisette 52 Campylobacter 30 temperature control 573
bicarbonate of soda 440, 484 candling 106 types 573–5
birds 26 canned products 28, 160, 215 coley 168
biscuits 487 cannelini beans 119 collagen 215–16
finishing and presentation 488 cannelloni 136 colour coding 32
storage 488–9 capon 296 compound butter sauces 53
bisque 50 cappaletti 136 concassé 343, 347
black beans 119 carbohydrates 563, 565 consommé 49–50
black-eyed beans 119 carob gum 516 contact time 24
blanching 347 carrageenan 516 continental roux 53
blending 51, 443, 486–7 CCTV 9 Control of Substances Hazardous to Health
blinis 416 ceilings 23 (COSHH) Regulations 4
631
632
633
634
pod vegetables 340 Reporting of Injuries, Diseases and Dangerous meat 216, 218, 222, 226, 228–9
polenta 121–2 Occurrences (RIDDOR) Regulations 2013 4–5 vegetables 347
pollock 168 rice shaping 444
pork food safety 29, 118 shark 168
core temperatures 216 preparing and cooking 118–19 shellfish
cuts and joints 228–9 quality points 118 cold food presentation 574
nutritional value 307 storage 119 preparation and cooking 169–74
offal 232–4 structure 117 quality points 169–74
preparation 230 varieties and products 117–18 seasonality 170
quality points 228 ricotta 138 storage 169
potage 50 right to search clauses 9 types 169–74
potatoes 341–2, 347–9 ripening 515 short pastry 438
poultry 295 see also individual types risk assessments 2, 7 shortening 439
core temperatures 216, 296 risotto 119 shrimps 170
food safety 296 roasting Sikh diets 567
preparation 296 fish 167–8 silverside 222
storage 27, 296 game 305–8 simmering 48
poussin 296 meat 218–19, 222, 226–8 six-stage cleaning process 25
prawns 170 potatoes 349 skate 159, 168
professional appearance 1 rocket 590 skimming 48
professional development rolling 444 skinning 161
feedback 16 root vegetables 340–2 slips, trips and falls 2–3
improving knowledge and skills 15 round fish 157 smoking
learning/progression plans 16 roux 53 cigarettes 21
performance appraisals 16 rubbing in 443, 487 cold/hot smoking 160
progression plans 16 rye 123 smorgasbord 606
prohibition signs 3 sabayon 54 snipe 304
protein 565 Safe Catering 37 soissons (beans) 119
provenance 342 Safer Food Better Business 37 sole, Dover/lemon 159, 168
proving 415 safety signs 3 soups
puff pastry 438, 443 salads 573, 590 healthy eating options 51
pulses 68 salmon 159, 168 preparation methods 50–1
preparation and cooking 120 Salmonella 29, 106 quality points 50
storage 120 salsa 52 thickening 49
types 119–20 salt 415, 513, 565 types 49–50
purée salting 160, 215 sour milk 440
sauces 52 sandwiches 574, 617 sous-vide 166
soups 49–51 sanitisers 24 soy beans 119
puy lentils 120 sardines 159, 168 soya products 350
quail 304, 306 sauce flour 54 spatchcock 299
quails’ eggs 106 sauces speciality dough 416
quantity controls 13 butter sauces 52–3 spelt 123
quinoa 122 quality points 53 split peas 120
rabbit 304, 306 thickening 53–4 spores 29–30
raising agents 440–1 types 52–3 spreading 488
Rastafarian diets 567 savarin 416 sprinkling 488
rats 26 scaling 161 squid 172
ravioli 136 scallops 170, 173–4 stabilisers 515–16
raviolini 136 scampi 170 standard operational procedures 12
recipes, following 11 Scores on the Doors 38 Staphylococcus aureus 29
red snapper 168 sea bass 159, 168 steaming 167, 347
reducing 49 sea trout 159 steels 44
refrigerators security procedures 8–9 stem vegetables 340
multi-use 27 seeds 340 sterilisation 441
temperature control 33–4 seitan 350 stewing see braising
Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005 7 self-raising flour 438 stir-frying 166, 168, 347
reheated foods 32–3 semolina 122, 438 stock rotation 28–9
relaxing 444 sesame seeds 418 stocks 48–9
religious diets 567 shallow frying storage
relishes 574 fish 166, 168 cakes, biscuits and sponges 488–9
game 307 canned products 28
635
636