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Practical Cookery 13th - Complete Edition

This document is the 13th edition of the textbook "Practical Cookery for Level 2 NVQs and apprenticeships". It provides guidance on maintaining a safe and hygienic working environment, working effectively as part of a hospitality team, maintaining food safety, maintaining, handling and cleaning knives, and preparing stocks, soups and sauces. The textbook contains chapters, contents, and conversion tables to support students in their coursework.

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Kasun maduranga
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© © All Rights Reserved
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68% found this document useful (19 votes)
24K views649 pages

Practical Cookery 13th - Complete Edition

This document is the 13th edition of the textbook "Practical Cookery for Level 2 NVQs and apprenticeships". It provides guidance on maintaining a safe and hygienic working environment, working effectively as part of a hospitality team, maintaining food safety, maintaining, handling and cleaning knives, and preparing stocks, soups and sauces. The textbook contains chapters, contents, and conversion tables to support students in their coursework.

Uploaded by

Kasun maduranga
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 649

Practical

Cookery
for Level 2
NVQs and
apprenticeships

13TH
edition

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Orders: please contact Bookpoint Ltd, 130 Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4SB. Telephone: (44) 01235 827720. Fax: (44) 01235
400454. Lines are open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday to Saturday, with a 24-hour message answering service. You can also order
through our website: www.hoddereducation.co.uk
If you have any comments to make about this, or any of our other titles, please send them to
[email protected]
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this title is available from the British Library
ISBN: 978 1 471 83957 3
ISBN (HELPE): 978 1 471 83958 0
First published 1962
Second edition 1967
Third edition 1972
Fourth edition 1974
Fifth edition 1981
Sixth edition 1987
Seventh edition 1990
Eighth edition 1995
Ninth edition 2000
Tenth edition 2004
Eleventh edition 2008
Twelfth edition 2012
This edition published 2015.
Impression number 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Year 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
Copyright © 2015 David Foskett, Neil Rippington, Patricia Paskins and Steve Thorpe
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or
mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from
the publisher or under licence from the Copyright Licensing Agency Limited. Further details of such licences (for reprographic
reproduction) may be obtained from the Copyright Licensing Agency Limited, of Saffron House, 6–10 Kirby Street, London EC1N 8TS.
Hachette UK’s policy is to use papers that are natural, renewable and recyclable products and made from wood grown in
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country of origin.
Typeset by DC Graphic Design Limited, Swanley Village, Kent.
Printed in India for Hodder Education, an Hachette UK Company, 338 Euston Road, London NW1 3BH.

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Contents
How to use this book.................................................................................................................................................................................................................... vi
Foreword by Heston Blumenthal........................................................................................................................................................................................... vii
Preparing for assessment........................................................................................................................................................................................................ viii
Acknowledgements....................................................................................................................................................................................................................... xi
Conversion tables.........................................................................................................................................................................................................................xiv

1 Maintain a safe, hygienic and secure working environment 1


Personal health and hygiene...................................................................................................................................................................................................... 1
A hygienic, safe and secure workplace............................................................................................................................................................................... 1

2 Work effectively as part of a hospitality team 11


Planning and organising your work..................................................................................................................................................................................... 11
Working effectively with team members...........................................................................................................................................................................13
Developing your skills..................................................................................................................................................................................................................15

3 Maintain food safety 19


What is food safety and why does it matter?................................................................................................................................................................19
Keeping yourself clean and hygienic...................................................................................................................................................................................19
Keeping work areas clean and hygienic.......................................................................................................................................................................... 22
Storing food safely........................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 26
Preparing, cooking and holding food safely.................................................................................................................................................................. 29
Food safety management systems..................................................................................................................................................................................... 34
What the law says......................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 37

4 Maintain, handle and clean knives 41


Knives and related equipment................................................................................................................................................................................................41
Using knives..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 43
Sharpening knives........................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 44
Cleaning knives.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 44
Food safety and knives.............................................................................................................................................................................................................. 44

5 Stocks, soups and sauces 47


Stocks.................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 48
Soups................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 49
Sauces................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 52

iii

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

6 Eggs 105
The structure of eggs................................................................................................................................................................................................................105
Types of eggs................................................................................................................................................................................................................................106
Purchasing and quality points..............................................................................................................................................................................................106
Preparing and cooking eggs................................................................................................................................................................................................106
Storing eggs................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 107

7 Rice, pulses and grains 117


Rice...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 117
Pulses................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 119
Grains................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 121

8 Pasta and noodles 135


Pasta................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 135
Noodles............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 138

9 Fish and shellfish 157


Fish...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 157
Shellfish.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................169

10 Meat and offal 213


Meat.................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 214
Lamb and mutton....................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 217
Beef.....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................221
Veal......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................225
Pork.....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................228
Bacon................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 230
Offal and other edible parts of the carcass..................................................................................................................................................................231
Other meat preparations........................................................................................................................................................................................................ 234

11 Poultry and game 295


Poultry............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 295
Chicken............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 296
Turkey.................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................301
Ducks and geese....................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 303
Game................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 303

12 Vegetables and vegetable protein 339


Vegetables...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 340
Vegetable protein........................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 349

13 Bread and dough products 415


Ingredients....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 415
Dough................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 415
Bread.................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 417
Finishing and presentation..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 418
Allergies............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 418

iv

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14 Basic pastry products 437


Ingredients for pastry work....................................................................................................................................................................................................437
Storage and food safety......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 443
Preparation and cooking techniques in pastry work............................................................................................................................................. 443
Finishing and presentation.................................................................................................................................................................................................... 444

15 Cakes, sponges, biscuits and scones 483


Cakes................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 483
Batters and whisked sponges............................................................................................................................................................................................ 485
Biscuits..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................487
Convenience cake, biscuit and sponge mixes...........................................................................................................................................................487
Decorating and finishing for presentation.................................................................................................................................................................... 488
Storing cakes, sponges, biscuits and scones........................................................................................................................................................... 488

16 Cold and hot desserts 511


Ingredients commonly used in desserts........................................................................................................................................................................ 512
Egg custard-based desserts................................................................................................................................................................................................ 513
Ice creams and sorbets........................................................................................................................................................................................................... 514
Fruit-based and other desserts........................................................................................................................................................................................... 516
Finishing and presentation..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 517
Healthy eating and desserts................................................................................................................................................................................................. 517

17 Healthy eating and special diets 563


Healthy eating and producing healthier dishes......................................................................................................................................................... 563
Special diets.................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 566
Food allergies and intolerances..........................................................................................................................................................................................567

18 Cold presentation 571


Cold presentation........................................................................................................................................................................................................................572
Food products for cold presentation...............................................................................................................................................................................573

Dynamic Learning.................................................................................................................................................................................................. 620


Glossary............................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 621
Index.......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 625

Accessing the videos


There are free videos on the website. Look out for the QR Once you have downloaded a QR code reader, simply
codes throughout the book. open the reader app and use it to take a photo of the
code. The file will then load on your smartphone/tablet.
To view the videos, you will need a QR code reader for
your smartphone/tablet. There are many free readers If you cannot read the QR code or you are using a
available, depending on the smartphone/tablet you computer, the web link next to the code will take you
are using. directly to the same place.

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

How to use this


book
At the start of each chapter is a list telling you which NVQ Recipes also include the following features:
units are covered in the chapter. Each chapter includes l Ingredients lists are provided for making smaller and
some underpinning knowledge and theory. larger quantities.
l Nutritional data is included for most recipes to help
If the chapter topic is a food commodity, there is also a list
you make informed choices about what to cook and eat.
of the recipes on the first page of the chapter. There is also
l Professional tips help you to understand the dish and
a complete index of recipes at the back of the book.
produce it successfully.
Test yourself questions in each chapter help you to l Healthy eating tips provide suggestions on how
test your knowledge and prepare for short-answer and recipes can be adapted to make them healthier.
multiple-choice tests. l Variation boxes suggest alternative ingredients,

Refer to the ‘Preparing for assessment’ section on page viii cooking methods or presentation, finishing and serving
for more guidance on assessment and how this book can styles that could be used.
help you to prepare. Practical Cookery 13th edition

In the recipes, the main methods of cookery are shown by


icons. So if you want to practise shallow frying for example, 67 Stuffed tomatoes
look for the relevant icon. They look like this: 1 Wash the tomatoes, remove the eyes.
2 Remove the top quarter of each tomato with a
sharp knife.

Baking Boiling Stewing 3 Carefully empty out the seeds without damaging
the flesh.
4 Place on a greased baking tray.
5 Cook the shallots in a little butter or oil without
colour.
Deep frying Shallow frying 6 Add the washed chopped mushrooms; season
with salt and pepper; add the garlic if using. Cook
for 2–3 minutes.
7 Add a little of the strained tomato juice, the

Grilling Poaching Roasting breadcrumbs and the parsley; mix to a piping


consistency. Correct the seasoning. At this stage,
several additions may be made (e.g. chopped
ham, cooked rice).
8 Place the mixture in a piping bag with a large plain
Steaming Braising Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions tube and pipe into the tomato shells. Replace
the tops.
Tomatoes, medium-sized 8 20
Duxelle 9 Brush with oil, season lightly with salt and pepper.
Shallots, chopped 10 g 25 g 10 Cook in a moderate oven at 180–200 °C for
Butter or oil 25 g 60 g 4–5 minutes.
Mushrooms 150 g 375 g 11 Serve garnished with picked parsley or fresh basil
or rosemary.
Salt, pepper
Clove of garlic, crushed (optional) 1 2–3 Healthy eating tips
Breadcrumbs (white or wholemeal) 25 g 60 g l Use a small amount of an unsaturated oil to cook the
shallots and brush over the stuffed tomatoes.
Parsley, chopped
l Add the minimum amount of salt.
l Adding cooked rice to the stuffing will increase the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre amount of starchy carbohydrate.
430 kJ 102 kcal 5.9 g 3.5 g 10.6 g 5.7 g 2.5 g 2.2 g

Cut out the eye of the tomato Slice off the top and remove the seeds Pipe in the filling and then replace the top
from inside

396

vi

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Foreword

I’m delighted to be asked to write this foreword to the


thirteenth edition of Practical Cookery. There’s no doubt
that training to be a professional chef takes hard work and
dedication, but for me nothing beats working with food –
experimenting, exploring new techniques and discovering
new flavours. I’ve spent years cooking the same dishes
over and over, perfecting the techniques and seeking
out the best ways to harness flavour. Practical Cookery
will help you as you embark on this process: it provides
you with all of the classic recipes, as well the basic skills,
techniques and knowledge you’ll need when working in
the professional kitchen. It will be a point of reference for
you to return to time and again throughout your career as
you hone your skills.
My approach has also been to question and test culinary
ideas, and to combine this with more traditional kitchen
skills. While learning the foundations is important, so too is
a natural curiosity and a desire to learn about every aspect
of gastronomy, including exploring the latest principles
and techniques. It is this combination of the traditional
with the modern that is at the heart of the Practical
Cookery approach.
I wish you every success with your course, and with your
career in the professional kitchen.
Heston Blumenthal

vii

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

Preparing for
assessment
Chefs are assessed regularly in many different ways: each This book has been designed to support chefs working in
meal that is served is evaluated by the customer, who will a range of professional cookery training and development
consider many things about their meal experience and programmes, but is specifically designed for those
often provide feedback. completing the Level 2 NVQ Diploma in Food Production
and Cooking or the Level 2 NVQ Diploma in Professional
To continue to develop skills and knowledge, a programme
Cookery, and those working towards Intermediate Level
of training and development should be set up to meet the
Apprenticeships.
requirements of the individual as well as to support the
organisation in which they work; this can be scheduled for
both ‘on the job’ and/or ‘off the job’. Apprenticeships
The apprenticeship programme is a prestigious learning
On-the-job training and development programme, valued by employers,
trade associations and professional bodies in the industry.
On-the-job training is development that takes place
Intermediate Level Apprentices will train as Kitchen
within the normal workplace and covers things like an
Assistants, Cooks and Chefs in large-volume, fine or casual
induction phase, health and safety information about the
dining settings or in a range of cuisines, including Craft,
use of equipment, or skills development to enable chefs to
Asian and Oriental cuisine. Advanced Level Apprentices will
produce dishes on the menu. It could include a short time
train as Sous/Senior Chefs, working in fine or casual dining
shadowing or working alongside another chef to learn
settings, as Pastry Chefs or as Sous/Senior Chefs in Craft
a skill.
Cuisine.

Off-the-job training Defining apprenticeships


Off-the-job training is a development programme of
An apprenticeship:
training, which could be a single day, one day a week for a
l is a job in a skilled occupation
period of time, or even block release. This type of training
l requires substantial and sustained training, lasting a
may lead to a recognised qualification or certificate of
minimum of 12 months (with no exemption for prior
completion. Examples of off-the-job programmes include:
learning) and should include at least 20 per cent off-
l Food hygiene or health and safety qualifications
the-job training (with the expectation that this will be
l Certificate in the Principles for Catering
delivered away from the workplace)
l Qualifications in maths and English
l leads to full competency in a role, which achieving
l Work experience or placement within a different
an employer-defined apprenticeship standard will
kitchen.
demonstrate
l develops transferable skills, including English and
maths, to progress careers (with the intention for
apprentices to work towards at least Level 2 standard).

viii

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Initial assessment Skills test (basket of goods)


Prior to starting an apprenticeship it is normal to complete (behaviours – ‘do you live it’)
an initial assessment to identify the following: As part of employment and application processes, many
l Specific training needs, support or guidance that may employers use skills assessment. This could be a simple
be required while working towards final qualification stage in the kitchen or a complete mystery basket test. The
and recognition of the apprenticeship. test assesses practical skills as well as working practices and
l Any prior recognised qualifications that may be relevant behaviours prior to offering employment to an individual.
to the apprenticeship, including English and maths
There are also other times which could be considered as an
(for example, GCSEs completed at school or college,
assessment opportunity or a review of knowledge and skills
although these only remain valid for five years).
of a chef, such as completing a college course or entering
a competition.
Training and development
For apprentices, training takes place at various times and is Qualifications that provide evidence
measured through regular reviews and discussions, which of training and development
may cover a number of different tasks and assessments.
Throughout your apprenticeship you will be given the
These are set by the awarding organisation and the training
opportunity to develop wider craft and transferable skills
provider offering the programme, and may involve some of
that will enhance your knowledge and understanding
the methods of assessment and testing described below.
of the sector and your role within it. This will be assessed
and confirmed through a number of achievements and
Knowledge assessment (knowledge supporting evidence leading to the following qualifications
and understanding – ‘do you know it’) prior to confirmation of your apprenticeship:
Knowledge assessment involves the completion of set l Level 2 Certificate in Hospitality and Catering Principles
exercises, through written or oral questioning, that enable (Professional Cookery)
the candidate to show their individual understanding of l Level 2 NVQ Diploma in Professional Cookery
a given subject area. Subjects may include the current l GCSE Maths and English at grade C or Functional Skills
legislation about providing food for sale, the techniques at Level 1.
and methods used to produce dishes to meet customer As part of Government reforms, new apprenticeship
requirements, product knowledge and an understanding standards for relevant occupations within the industry are
of traditional and contemporary cooking methods, linked in the process of being developed. The focus will shift from
to the subject specifications. a number of different inputs (qualifications) to an outcome-
based approach that needs to be achieved for someone
Skills assessment for competency to complete an apprenticeship through a training and
(‘can you show it’) development programme lasting around 12 to 24 months.
Skills assessment involves a set of practical tasks that cover The proposed future model is that two-thirds of the
all areas of the qualification; these normally cover complete assessment will be delivered as an end test or assessment.
dishes that may be on the menu at the time. Assessors These will be completed by a separate organisation, not
or mentors use this process to evaluate the apprentice’s the employer or provider who delivers the training, who
progress and the assessments are part of a development will manage the process. This section will be updated
programme for individual chefs. These could also be set in accordingly when the new standards come into force.
the workplace to cover the introduction of new dishes onto
the menu to ensure that all in the team can produce to the
required specification for continuity.

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

How you can prepare for l Correct craft skills – these should be appropriate for the
dish. You will be assessed on your knife skills, the ease of
assessment the technique used and the consistency of skills shown.
l Correct use of equipment – use the correct tools or
Regardless of the programme you are completing, prior
equipment safely and correctly to complete tasks. This
planning and preparation is most important to enable you
will include the use of pans and could include energy.
to achieve the maximum from any assessment. You cannot
Do you really need to have the grill on 120 minutes
beat the feeling of receiving the highest mark possible or
before you glaze a fish dish?
gaining praise from a customer. To do that you will have to
l Work methods – ensure you work in a logical and
work in a methodical manner, be prepared to practise and
organised manner, using appropriate time and
listen to feedback, as well as personally reflecting on what
temperature controls for food items. ‘Clean as You Go’
you have completed.
is the mantra used across kitchens. Be aware of cross-
1 Read the instructions or brief that is given to you; make
contamination threats to your dishes.
sure you understand what you have to do. This includes
the criteria you will judged or assessed on, which could
include use of equipment, professional standards, use Culinary practice and finished
of materials, skills and techniques to be covered, time
allowed, and any preparations that can be completed
dishes
before the test starts. ‘Culinary practice’ covers the selection of ingredients,
2 Carry out any research, find or develop your recipes and choice of cooking methods and techniques, and application
consider which ingredients and skills you will need to of knowledge and skills to an appropriate level for the
include within the test. assessment. The checking of the finished dish will cover
3 Prepare and plan your time; this could include some presentation, portioning, flavour, texture, seasoning and of
practice time for competitions, as well as a time plan for course cooking. Things to consider:
l Use of food items – have you selected ingredients that
the actual assessment. This plan isn’t only for the day
itself but includes how you may prepare before the test balance in terms of texture, colour and flavours within
date. the overall dish? In some settings, you may also be
4 Prepare a list of equipment you will require to complete asked to consider seasonality as part of the assessment.
l Techniques or skills – preparation of ingredients should
the task; make sure you have what you need. It may be
helpful to check whether there is time to set out your be completed in a logical sequence and with an
work station before the assessment takes place. understanding and awareness of portion sizes or waste
from trimming and peeling.
On the day of assessment you should arrive at the l Cooking methods – the correct use of these for the dish
assessment centre in plenty of time. requirements and ingredients will be assessed. You will
Use this book to help develop your knowledge and need to consider the use of time and temperature to
experience. ensure that dishes are cooked correctly and ready for
the target service time.
l Monitoring cooking process – this includes tasting and
Professional practice evaluating elements of the dish prior to finishing; this
‘Professional practice’ covers what you do while producing will cover consistency and will enable you to correct the
your dishes. Whether for a practical test or an assessment, balance of the dish through the process.
the mentors or assessors will be looking at how you l Presentation – the final stage of any practical
conduct yourself in the kitchen area. Things to consider: assessment is how the dish is finished to present to
l Personal hygiene and turnout – this includes your dress. the potential customer; this is an opportunity to show
Make sure your whites are clean and pressed. Personal final flair and creativity as a chef, and includes how you
hygiene standards cover things like jewellery, hair and garnish and finish the dish. Make sure you don’t allow
nails. Make sure that you are seen washing your hands the food to go cold while trying to get it on the plate.
as required.

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Acknowledgements

Photography Picture credits


Most of the photos in this book are by Andrew Callaghan Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders
of Callaghan Studios. The photography work could not of material reproduced here. The authors and publishers
have been completed without the generous help of would like to thank the following for permission to
the authors and their colleagues and students at the reproduce copyright illustrations:
University of West London (UWL) and University College
Page vii courtesy of Heston Blumenthal; page 12 © Getty
Birmingham (UCB). The publishers would particularly like to
Images/iStockphoto/Thinkstock; page 13 © Bananastock/
acknowledge the following for their work.
Photolibrary Group Ltd/Getty Images; pages 32, 33 and 42
Gary Farrelly and Ketharanathan Vasanthan organised the Russums; page 121 (bottom) © woyzzeck – Fotolia; page
cookery at UWL. They were assisted in the kitchen by: 137 top left © Constantinos – Fotolia, top middle © Denisa
l Josephine Barone V – Fotolia, top right © spinetta – Fotolia; page 219 (top
l Khloe Best and middle), 220 (bottom), 223 (top left and right) and 227
l Jonathon Bowers (top) © EBLEX; page 229 and 231 (right) © BPEX; page 233
l Livio Capillera © EBLEX; page 246 (bottom) and 316 (top) © Sarah Bailey/
l James Cher Hodder Education; page 348 Potato Council; page 564
l Tia-Louise Hudson Halsey Crown copyright; page 573 © Food and Drink/REX Features.
l Freya Massingham
The photos on pages 60, 65, 110 (bottom), 128–131, 159, 155,
l Violeta Saninta
162 (bottom), 164, 172, 176 (top), 205, 209, 220 (top), 227
l Grimaldy Cassidy Dos Santos
(bottom), 256 (top), 274 (top), 302, 314, 318, 324 (bottom),
l Rachel Shelly
328, 343, 368, 375 (top), 387 (top), 392, 407 (bottom), 427
l Amilda Venancio.
(top), 468 (bottom), 474, 518, 566 (bottom), 589, 590, 602,
Neil Rippington organised the photography at UCB. He 609 and 618 (top) are © Sam Bailey/Hodder Education.
was assisted in the kitchen by Richard Taylor.
Except where stated above, photographs are by Andrew
The authors and publishers are grateful to everyone Callaghan.
involved for their hard work.
We are also very grateful to Watts Farms for providing Nutritional analysis
much of the fruit and vegetables shown in the New nutritional analysis for this book was carried out by
photographs. Watts Farms is a family-run fresh produce Annemarie Aburrow (Expert Dietitian – Nutrition & Dietetic
business specialising in the growing, packing and supply Consultancy) and Jane Krause (JK Health & Nutrition).
of a wide range of seasonal produce from spinach, baby
leaf salads, herbs and legumes to fruit, chillies, asparagus, Some of the nutritional analysis was created for earlier
brassicas and specialist interest crops. editions by Joanne Tucker (University of West London),
Jenny Arthur, Dr Jenny Poulter, Jane Cliff and Pat Bacon.

xi

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

Conversion tables
In this book, metric weights and measures are used. All
temperatures are given in degrees Celsius.

Weights and measures


Imperial Approximate metric Imperial Approximate metric
equivalent equivalent
¼ oz 5g 2½ in 6 cm
½ oz 10 g 3 in 8 cm
1 oz 25 g 4 in 10 cm
2 oz 50 g 5 in 12 cm
3 oz 75 g 6 in 15 cm
4 oz 100 g 6½ in 16 cm
5 oz 125 g 7 in 18 cm
6 oz 150 g 12 in 30 cm
7 oz 175 g 18 in 45 cm
8 oz 200 g Spoons and cups
9 oz 225 g 1 teaspoon (tsp) 5 ml
10 oz 250 g 1 dessertspoon (dsp) 10 ml
11 oz 275 g 1 tablespoon (tbsp) 15 ml
12 oz 300 g ¼ cup 60 ml
13 oz 325 g ⁄ cup
13 80 ml
14 oz 350 g ½ cup 125 ml
15 oz 375 g 1 cup 250 ml
16 oz 400 g
2 lb 1 kg
¼ pt 125 ml Oven temperatures
½ pt 250 ml °C Gas regulo °F
¾ pt 375 ml slow (cool) 110 ¼ 225
1 pt 500 ml 130 ½ 250
1½ pt 750 ml 140 1 275
2 pt (1 qt) 1 litre 150 2 300
2 qt 2 litres 160 3 325
1 gal 4.5 litres moderate 180 4 350
¼ in 0.5 cm 190 5 375
½ in 1 cm 200 6 400
1 in 2 cm hot 220 7 425
1½ in 4 cm 230 8 450
2 in 5 cm very hot 250 9 475

xii

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1 Maintain a safe, hygienic and
secure working environment
This chapter is relevant to the following units:
➜ Maintain a safe, hygienic and secure working
environment.

Every day people are injured at work; some of the injuries According to the Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) at
may be serious, disabling or even fatal. It is therefore Work Regulations, 1992, employees must wear personal
important to always work professionally in a healthy, safe protective clothing/equipment suitable for the work they
and hygienic way. Safety awareness will help to keep are involved in. For example, chefs wear protective chef’s
yourself and others that work with you safe. It is also very whites, but may add gauntlet gloves and eye goggles
important to provide a safe environment for customers and if cleaning an oven. See page 19 for more on protective
visitors. clothing.
You must always follow the health and safety procedures
that your employer has put in place when you are working; A hygienic, safe and
you should not interfere with safety equipment and you
must report anything you consider to be a possible hazard. secure workplace
Responsibilities under the Health
Personal health and and Safety at Work Act
hygiene The Health and Safety Executive (HSE) is responsible
for enforcing health and safety in the workplace. It has
All humans are a potential source of food contamination
the power to investigate premises; check, dismantle and
and everyone working with food must be aware of the
remove equipment; inspect the records; ask questions;
importance of high standards of appearance and personal
and seize and destroy articles. The HSE can give verbal or
hygiene. As well as the important role this plays in avoiding
written advice, order improvement and issue prohibition
food contamination, it will reflect the professionalism of the
notices, and will prosecute, if necessary, which can result in
individual as well as the establishment they work for, giving
unlimited fines or even imprisonment.
a positive impression to customers and guests.
Everyone working in a kitchen needs to know the laws
Details on maintaining personal cleanliness, health and
on health and safety, and how they are affected by these
hygiene can be found on page 19 in Chapter 3 Maintain
laws. The Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 gives
food safety. It covers the importance of maintaining good
employees and employers certain responsibilities that they
personal hygiene including: wearing smart and appropriate
must adhere to within their working environment:
clothing, footwear and head coverings; keeping hair
l All employees and employers must take reasonable care
neat and tidy; rules concerning jewellery and cosmetics;
of their own safety and the safety of others they work
and dealing with cuts, grazes, burns and other wounds.
with.
Information is also included on the importance of reporting
l Employees must inform their line manager/supervisor if
any illness or infections to the appropriate person before
they see anything they think is unsafe and could cause
you go near any food – this is a legal requirement.
an accident.
l Any procedure, equipment or protective clothing put
Personal protective equipment in place for safety must be used correctly and never be
(PPE) modified or tampered with.
l Employees must co-operate with their employer on
Protective clothing is worn to protect food from
health and safety matters and procedures put in place
contamination by food handlers and to protect the wearer
to keep the working environment safe.
from such things as excessive heat, burns and sharp objects.

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Employers must also ensure that all staff are safe at work l fires and explosions
and not put staff in dangerous situations where they l electric shocks
could injure themselves or others. They must provide safe l not wearing suitable protective clothing or not wearing
methods of work for their employees. This includes: it properly
l producing a workplace policy document on health and l incidents due to poor lighting
safety l ignoring or abusing the rules put in place for health and
l completing risk assessments for all equipment and safety.
procedures in the workplace It is now a legal requirement for all employers to carry out
l providing safe equipment and utensils
risk assessments for all of the procedures completed in
l training and supervising staff in safe practices
the workplace. The risk assessment must also record the
l providing first-aid equipment
measures in place to keep employees safe and to avoid
l keeping an accurate record of all accidents.
risk of injury, ill health or harm. Health and safety legislation
The Health and Safety Information for Employees covers everyone in the premises, including full- and part-
Regulations (1989) also require that employers provide time employees, agency staff, contractors, voluntary
health and safety information for their employees. This could workers and those on work placement, as well as customers
be in the form of leaflets, posters, DVDs and information and guests.
packs. A selection of these is available from the HSE.
Slips, trips and falls
Finding information about health The majority of accidents in kitchens are slips, trips and falls.
Therefore, floor surfaces must be of a suitable construction
and safety to reduce this risk. A major cause of this kind of accident is
Information relating to health and safety in your workplace spilt water and grease, which can make the floor surface
can be obtained in a number of ways. It can be available slippery. For this reason any spillage must be cleaned
through: immediately and warning notices put in place, where
l induction training, staff training, staff handover and appropriate, highlighting the danger. Verbal warnings
briefing sessions should also be given.
l posters, booklets, leaflets and signs around the
Falls can also be caused when items are left on floors and
workplace
in passageways or between stoves and tables. People
l line managers, head chefs and supervisors
carrying trays and containers may have a restricted view
l health and safety representatives and managers, and
and may not see hazards and so can trip over them. They
human resources departments.
may fall on to a hot stove, on to a sharp item, or the item
they are carrying may be hot. These falls can have severe
Hazards in the workplace consequences. Ensure that nothing is left on the floor that
There can be a number of inherent hazards when working may cause an obstruction and be a hazard. If it is necessary
in kitchen areas. For this reason, it is important to work in a to have articles on the floor temporarily, they should be
safe and systematic way in order to avoid accidents or injury guarded to prevent accidents.
to yourself or anyone else. Kitchen personnel should be trained to think and act in a
The following are some common causes of accidents in the safe manner so as to avoid this kind of accident.
kitchen: If you become aware of a hazard or potential hazard in your
l slipping on a wet or greasy floor working area, it is important to assess the situation and
l tripping over objects or walking into objects decide if it is something that you can deal with yourself or
l lifting objects wrongly or lifting loads that are too heavy if it needs to be reported to someone else, or maybe both
l being exposed to hazards such as hot or dangerous (see below). Do not ignore hazards: they may have the
substances, for example steam or oven-cleaning potential to cause serious injury. It is essential that you do
chemicals one or more of the following to minimise risk:
l being hit or hurt by moving objects, such as being cut l Deal with the hazard yourself where it is safe to do so;
by a knife when chopping an example of this would be dealing with a wet floor
l injury from machines such as vegetable-cutting and putting up the appropriate signs.
machines, liquidisers and mincing machines

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Maintain a safe, hygienic and secure working environment 1

l Warn others of the hazard verbally, for example warning Red signs – prohibition or fire-fighting signs
of the wet floor before you have dealt with it. Make sure Red signs tell people that they should not enter and are to
others working around you are aware of hot surfaces stop people from doing certain tasks in a hazardous area.
and hot equipment, such as trays you have just taken Red signs are also used for fire-fighting equipment.
from the oven.
l Report the problem to another colleague, for example
your mentor or someone with responsibility for health
and safety.
l Report the problem to a supervisor, head chef or
manager.

No
l Remove dangerous pieces of equipment, for example
a hand-held blender with a damaged electrical cord,
or place a ‘do not use’ sign on larger equipment and smoking
inform a supervisor, head chef or manager.
on site
Hazard warning signs
Safety signs are used to control a hazard. They should not
replace other methods of controlling risks. Green signs – safe signs
These are route signs designed to show where fire exits and
Yellow signs – warning signs emergency exits are. Green also tends to be used for first-
These are to warn of various dangers, such as slippery floors, aid equipment.
hot oil or hot water. They also warn about hazards such as
corrosive material.
Fire
First aid exit

Electricity and gas


The majority of kitchens will have a range of electrical
equipment and great care must be taken when dealing with
electricity. Electrical equipment is covered by Electricity
Blue signs – mandatory signs at Work Regulations (1989); under these regulations
These signs inform about precautions that must be taken, all electrical equipment must be tested each year by a
such as how to progress safely through a certain area. They qualified electrician.
are also used when special precautions need to be taken, If a person comes into direct contact with electricity an
such as wearing protective clothing. electric shock can occur, which can be very serious and
sometimes fatal. If a person has an electric shock, switch
off the current. If this is not possible, free the person using
something that is dry and that will insulate you from the
electricity, such as a thick cloth or something made of wood
or rubber. You must take care not to use your bare hands
Eye otherwise the electric shock may be transmitted to you.

protection
In the case of electric shock:
l switch off the current
must be l raise the alarm
l call for medical/first-aid help.
worn You can give artificial respiration where necessary if you are
trained in the procedure.
3

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Gas is often the preferred fuel for industrial stoves and can People using chemical substances must be trained to use
be potentially hazardous. On leaving the kitchen, make sure them properly and safely. This will include:
that you turn off all gas appliances. It is important to report l wearing the relevant protective clothing, such as
any gas leaks, faulty equipment or gas smell immediately to aprons, goggles, gloves and facemasks
a supervisor or line manager. l following the manufacturer’s instructions correctly
l always storing chemicals in their original containers,
In some kitchens there are central gas cut-off points where
away from heat and with the lids tightly closed
one switch cuts off the gas supply to the whole kitchen.
l not allowing exposure to heat or to naked flames
These are used in emergency situations such as a fire.
l never mixing chemicals
l knowing first-aid procedures
Hazardous substances l disposing of used chemicals and empty containers
The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health correctly.
(COSHH) Regulations (1999) state that an employer
must not carry out work that might expose employees to
substances that are hazardous to their health, unless the Incident/accident reporting
employer has assessed the risks and put relevant controls If an accident or near-accident occurs in your working area
in place. These risk assessments must be recorded and it is important that it is reported to the appropriate person
available for inspection. All potentially harmful chemicals so it can be recorded and measures put in place to prevent
must be stored, used and then disposed of properly it occurring again.
according to COSHH regulations. The hazardous nature
of the chemical must be identified on the packaging. Health and safety
Substances that are dangerous to health are labelled as Remember! Kitchens can be dangerous places. Remain
‘very toxic’, ‘toxic’, ‘harmful’, ‘irritant’ or ‘corrosive’. aware of hazards and potential hazards at all times.
This includes the use of recognisable symbols.
Health and safety must be monitored regularly in the
workplace by the designated health and safety manager/
officer. Any accident incidents or near-accidents must be
recorded, even if no one was injured.
As an employee all accidents and potential accidents
must be reported to your line manager or supervisor. Each
accident is recorded in an accident book/file, which must
be provided in every business. Below is an example of an
Corrosive Flammable incident report form showing all the details required.

RIDDOR (Reporting of Injuries,


Diseases and Dangerous
Occurrences Regulations) 2013
The law says that all serious work-related accidents, diseases
and dangerous occurrences must be recorded and reported
to the HSE online (www.hse.gov.uk).
There is also a telephone contact number, but this is only
Harmful Toxic
for very serious incidents and fatalities (Incident Contact
Centre: 0845 300 9923).
Chemicals commonly used in kitchens include: detergents,
disinfectants, sanitisers, degreasers, descalers, oven cleaners The following injuries must be reported:
l bone fractures (except fingers, thumbs or toes)
and pest-control chemicals. These substances could cause
l amputation (cutting off) of limbs
injury if not used correctly by getting them on to the skin,
l dislocation of a hip, knee or spine
in the eyes or mouth, or breathing in through the nose or
l temporary or permanent loss of sight (blindness)
mouth.

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MaintainAreas
Equipment name a safe, hygienic
of safety
covered in training
and secure
Authorised working environment
person Student initial
understanding
1

Full name of injured person:


Occupation: Supervisor:

Time of accident: Date of accident: Time of report: Date of report:

Name of injury or condition:

Details of hospitalisation:

Extent of injury (after medical attention):

Place of accident or dangerous occurrence:

Injured person’s evidence of what happened (include equipment/items and/or other persons):

Witness evidence (1): Witness evidence (2):

Supervisor’s recommendations:

Date: Supervisor’s signature:

An incident report form

l eye injuries from chemicals getting into the eye, a hot l unconsciousness or illness requiring medical treatment
metal burn to the eye or any penetration of the eye caused by inhaling a harmful substance or absorbing
l any injury from electric shock or burning that leads to it through the skin (such as breathing in poisonous
unconsciousness or the need to resuscitate the person carbon monoxide leaking from a gas appliance)
or send them to hospital for more than 24 hours l illness requiring medical treatment caused by a
l any injury resulting in hypothermia (when someone biological agent or its toxins or infected material (such
gets too cold), or illness due to heat, that leads to as harmful bacteria used in laboratories).
unconsciousness or the need to resuscitate the person
Examples of reportable diseases include:
or send them to hospital for more than 24 hours (such
l dermatitis
as an electric shock, or a gas flame blown back and
l skin cancer
causing burns)
l asthma
l unconsciousness caused by exposure to a harmful
l hepatitis
substance or biological agents (such as cleaning
l tuberculosis
products and solvents)
l tetanus
l anthrax.

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

Emergencies in the workplace Safe lifting and handling


Emergencies that might happen in the workplace include: Working in a kitchen often includes the need to move heavy
l serious accidents involving injury or awkwardly shaped objects. This could include deliveries
l outbreak of fire or explosion of food and other items that need to be moved to another
l threats such as terrorism or riots area, lifting heavy trays from ovens, manoeuvring large
l a bomb scare pieces of equipment and using heavy cleaning equipment.
l failure of a major system, for example water or
Picking up and carrying heavy or difficult loads can lead
electricity.
to accidents, injury and long-term sickness if it is not
An organisation will have systems in place to deal with done properly. Incorrect lifting or lifting something too
emergencies. Key staff are usually trained to lead the heavy is a common cause of back injury. The Manual
procedure in cases of emergency and most organisations Handling Operations Regulations (1992) cover safe
will have fire marshals and first-aiders. These people will lifting and handling at work. An employer must carry out
attend regular update meetings. Evacuation procedures will a risk assessment on all tasks that involve lifting and put
also be in place, which employees will need to practise (for procedures in place to make it safe. Staff must then be
example, fire drills), and fire alarms will be tested regularly. trained in these procedures.
When lifting, the general rules include:
First aid l assessing the load and not attempting to lift anything
When people are injured or fall ill at work, it is important that that is too heavy
immediate help is available and, in serious cases, medical l breaking the load into smaller units if appropriate
assistance is called. l using lifting equipment or moving equipment such as
trolleys where available
The arrangements for providing first aid in the workplace are l requesting help with lifting.
set out in the Health and Safety (First Aid) Regulations
1981. Since 1982 it has been a legal requirement that When lifting, it is essential to use a safe lifting technique:
adequate first-aid equipment, facilities and personnel are l Assess the load and plan how you are going to lift it.
provided at work. l Position yourself with your feet apart, back straight and
knees bent.
All kitchen staff need to know who they should call or l Grip the item firmly at the base or lifting handles.
inform if there is an accident, where the first-aid equipment l Lift in a smooth movement, keeping the load close to
is located and the procedures they should follow when the body.
there is an injury or incident, no matter how small. l Walk carefully, making sure there are no trip hazards.
First-aid equipment needs to be checked regularly, l Lower or place the load, still keeping the back straight
replenished and maintained; making this procedure part and bending knees if necessary.
of a job role will ensure that the required items are always
available. Health and safety
All injuries, including minor injuries, must be recorded. Take extra care when lifting hot items. This includes
large trays from ovens, roasting trays, large pans of
This is usually done on individual recording forms that are
liquids, oven or salamander shelves, and a variety of
then kept. Some organisations now record accidents on other kitchen items that could be hot and cause burns.
computer systems – these must also be kept for information When moving a hot item be sure that you can do it
and/or inspection. safely and that there is a clear space to put it down.
Give others working around you verbal warnings. Wrap
an oven cloth around hot pan-handles and do not allow
Dealing with minor cuts and burns hot trays to stick out over the edge of surfaces.
Minor cuts, grazes and burns occur occasionally in kitchens
because of the nature of the work. Most minor cuts can
usually be treated using the contents of the first-aid box,
maybe with the assistance of an appointed first-aider. For
more serious cuts and burns it is important to seek advice
from the first-aider and get medical help as soon as possible.

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Maintain a safe, hygienic and secure working environment 1

Stage 1 – think Stage 5 – avoid


before lifting twisting or
leaning sideways Stage 6 –
look ahead
Stage 7 – move
object and place
Stage 2 – adapt a down, adjust to the
strong, stable position desired position

Stage 3 – place
feet slightly apart,
straight back,
squat over the Stage 4 –
object with keep the
knees slightly load close
bent and feet to the waist
slightly apart

Fire safety All fires require heat, fuel and oxygen (‘the fire triangle’ –
see below). Without any one of these elements a fire will
Everyone working in a kitchen needs to be aware of the
not start. Methods of putting fires out concentrate on
potential risk of fire. It is important to work safely to prevent
either cooling it (as in a water extinguisher or fire hose) or
fire, especially around open gas jets and when using fats
depriving it oxygen (as in an extinguisher that uses foam or
and oils with cooking appliances. Deep-fat fryers should
powder).
be thermostatically controlled to prevent overheating and
only be used after training has been completed. Fuel
All employers have a duty of care for the safety of Flammable gases, liquids or solids
employees in the event of a fire. The Regulatory Reform
(Fire Safety) Order 2005 emphasises that measures
must be taken to prevent fires. All staff must be trained
in emergency evacuation with fire action plans clearly Ignition source Oxygen
displayed to show the correct evacuation routes for staff, Smoking or naked flames Always present in the air
Hot surfaces Also comes from
customers and visitors. The fire evacuation procedures
Electrical equipment oxidising substances
should be practised at least once a year, the procedure Static electricity
recorded and reviewed regularly to take into account staff
The fire triangle
changes and any changes to the premises.
Under current health and safety regulations it is a Fire precautions
requirement to: Effective measures in the prevention of fire include:
l make sure that the fire precautions, where reasonably l removing all hazards or reducing them as much as
practicable, ensure the safety of all employees and possible
others in the building l making sure that measures have been taken to protect
l complete a fire risk assessment of the premises and from the risk of fire and the likelihood of a fire spreading
specific areas. This must be recorded and be available l ensuring that all escape routes are safe and used
for inspection. Preventative and protective measures effectively, and that they are well signed and easy to
must be reviewed. A fire risk assessment will help to access
establish the likelihood of a fire occurring and highlight l provision of suitable fire-fighting equipment and staff
the dangers from fire in the workplace well trained in its use
l make sure that suitable fire detection systems are in l providing suitable ways of detecting a fire (for example
place and fire alarms are tested weekly smoke alarms) and instructions on what to do in case of
l clearly sign all escape routes and make sure that they fire
are free from hazards that might slow down or prevent l arrangements in place for what to do if a fire breaks out
escape. – employees must be trained in what to do in the event
of a fire
l all precautions provided must be installed and
maintained by a competent person.

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

Fires are classified in accordance with British Standard EN2 As well as providing security and protection for all these
as follows: people, consideration needs to be given to the buildings
l Class A: fires involving solid materials where burning and grounds; fixtures, fittings and furniture; decor and
normally forms glowing embers, for example, wood. decorative items; equipment; clothing and linen; and stock.
l Class B: fires involving liquids, such as methylated spirit
The main security concerns include:
or any kind of flammable gel used under a burner.
l theft: where customers’ property, employers’ property
l Class C: fires involving gases.
(particularly food, drink and equipment) or employees’
l Class D: fires involving metals.
property is stolen
l Class F: fires involving cooking oils or fats.
l burglary: where a burglar comes on to the premises
Different types of fire extinguishers are suitable for different (trespasses) and steals customers’, employers’ or
types of fire. Generally, portable fire extinguishers contain employees’ property
one of the following five substances: l robbery: theft with assault, for example when staff are
l water banking or collecting cash
l foam l fraud: false insurance claims; counterfeit money; stolen
l powder credit cards
l carbon dioxide l assault: fights between customers; assaults on staff by
l vaporising liquids. customers; violence or attacks on staff; verbal abuse
l vandalism: damage to property caused by customers,
The most useful form of general-purpose fire-fighting
intruders or employees
equipment is the water-type extinguisher or hose reel. Areas
l arson: setting fire to the property
of special risk, such as kitchens where oil, fats and electrical
l undesirable individuals: having people such as drug
equipment are used, may need other types of extinguisher,
dealers on the premises
such as carbon dioxide, wet chemical or dry powder.
l terrorism: bombs, telephone bomb threats.
Ensure that you know exactly where the fire alarms are in
The Management of Health and Safety at Work
your working area and how they are operated. Also be well
Regulations 1999 require employers to conduct a risk
aware of the evacuation procedures in your establishment
assessment regarding the safety of staff in the business.
and follow the procedure shown to you. If you need to
Preventing crime is more efficient and less damaging than
leave the premises because of fire, the usual steps include:
having to deal with it once it has happened.
l Raise the alarm and warn others verbally.
l Turn off gas supplies using a central cut-off point if
possible. Dealing with security
l Do not put yourself and others in danger; only tackle Everyone entering the premises should be monitored.
the smallest of fires, and only if you know how to do this Reception staff should be trained to spot suspicious
and you are certain that it is safe to do so. individuals and those likely to cause problems. Everyone
l Leave by the appointed exits, checking that others who comes into the building should be asked to sign in
are also vacating the building. Guests, visitors and at reception and, if they are a legitimate visitor, be given
customers may need assisting and directing. a security badge. It is also essential to make sure that any
l Go to the appointed assembly point and await further suspicious person does not re-enter the building.
instruction. l All contract workers should be registered and given

l Do not re-enter the building until you are told you can security badges, and they may be restricted to working
do so. in certain areas.
l There should also be good security systems on all
doors; those delivering goods need to report to the
Security procedures relevant person.
Security in hospitality premises always remains a high l All establishments should try to reduce temptation for
priority. In many hospitality establishments large numbers criminals, for example by reducing the amount of cash
of people can be present in the building at any one time. that is handled. The use of credit and debit cards is now
These may include: staff, guests, customers, contractors, common and widespread, and reduces the amounts of
visitors and others. cash used, so reducing the risk of cash theft. However,
credit/debit card fraud and crimes are also a problem.

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Maintain a safe, hygienic and secure working environment 1

l Staff who handle money should be trained in simple Dealing with customers’ property
anti-fraud measures, such as checking bank notes, Customers’ property often needs to be looked after,
checking signatures on plastic cards and so on. secured or cared for in hospitality establishments. Keeping
l It is impossible to remove all temptation, so equipment customers’ property safe while on the premises is dealt
(such as computers, fax machines, photocopiers) with by:
should be marked with some sort of security tag or l locked rooms
identification. l lockers and locking cupboards
l There are many simple and obvious security measures l personal safes in rooms or a central safe that customers
that can also be taken, such as locking doors and can use
windows. l cloakrooms with ticket/token systems
l Coded key pads on doors are effective in keeping areas l items left in reception areas or at concierge desks
safe. Keys should be kept securely and access to them l items given to staff for safe keeping.
restricted to those who need them.
l Good lighting is also important for security reasons – When customers’ property has been left behind by mistake
criminals are less likely to come on to the premises at the usual procedure is to report it to a supervisor, record
night if they can be clearly seen. Regular checks should the date and a description of the item, and then store it
be made of the lighting in all areas. Lighting areas that securely. When the identity and whereabouts of the person
can be seen by passers-by can also help. leaving the item is known they may be contacted to inform
l Closed-circuit television (CCTV) cameras with recordings them of their lost property.
are also used as a deterrent against crime. Most establishments will have set procedures in place with
l With regard to staff, a good security measure is regards to risks, threats and security. Make sure that you
checking their references from previous employers. are aware of these policies and carry them out correctly in
l Staff are frequently provided with security swipe line with the establishment’s operational procedures. Most
cards to enter the building; these may also carry a employers provide regular training and update sessions
photograph of the staff member. for their staff, making sure that everyone is well aware of
l Some companies put the ‘right to search’ into employee requirements and that their knowledge is up to date.
contracts – this means that, from time to time, the
employer can carry out searches of the employees’
lockers, bags and other belongings.

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

Test yourself
1 When you work in a kitchen it is important for you to have an understanding of
health and safety issues. Suggest three places that you could find out about
health and safety.
2 Suggest three hazards that you may come across in your kitchen that you
think may cause an injury or accident. Who would you report these to, and
how could you warn others working around you?
3 Describe four signs that you may see around the kitchen to warn or inform you
of health and safety issues.
4 Why is it important that everyone in the kitchen knows where to find the first-
aid equipment, and why is it important that first-aid supplies are kept topped
up?
5 If you were asked to move some large boxes that had been delivered, how
could you do this safely?
6 Suggest three possible causes of fire in a kitchen. Which type of fire-fighting
equipment could be used on a deep-fat fryer?
7 Suggest three ways that you could reduce the risk of accidental fire when
working in the kitchen.
8 If you see an accident or near-accident in your workplace who should you
report it to? Why is reporting it important?
9 Describe three of the security procedures you are aware of in your workplace.
10 If a visitor to your kitchen or a customer left some of their property behind,
what is the procedure that should be followed?

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01 PracticalCookeryL2NVQs Chapter 1.indd 10 04/03/2015 11:07


2 Work effectively as part of a
hospitality team
This chapter is relevant to the following units:
➜ Work effectively as part of a hospitality team.

When working in a kitchen, or in any hospitality role, you With a list of tasks it will be necessary to prioritise which
will be working as part of a team. This may include: are most important or need to be done first. For example,
l completing tasks on your own but as part of a wider some vegetables needed for lunch service in an hour’s time
team will need to be dealt with before the preparation of items
l completing tasks with one or two other people as part for dinner or tomorrow’s menu.
of a wider team
Also, you need to organise your time efficiently; while
l working as part of a large team that may be subdivided
something is cooking in the oven you could be working
into sections.
on something else. If you need help or advice on how to
Kitchen teams will include managers, supervisors (head prioritise tasks or if you are unsure that you have got it
chefs or sous chefs) as well as team members at various right, ask for guidance. As the day’s work progresses it may
levels and those working at the same level as yourself. There be necessary to change the order and priority of tasks as
will also be people providing support, such as kitchen some things may become more urgent. Writing down the
porters and clerical staff. Kitchen teams vary in size and type instructions given to you will help you to work efficiently
depending on the establishment – a large hotel may have and professionally.
an extensive kitchen brigade with a formal structure, but
a small restaurant will have a smaller and less formal team. Types of instructions
l The recipe: one of the most important sets of
Planning and organising instructions you will use; it is important to follow it
accurately. You will frequently need to scale the recipe
your work up or down (multiplying or dividing the amounts) to
To be successful as part of a kitchen team you will need match the quantities you will need; take care to do this
to develop the skills to plan and organise your own work. accurately. It is advisable to write down and double
You need to make sure that the instructions and allocated check the amended recipe amounts. Read the whole
tasks given to you are clearly understood so that mistakes recipe through at least once before starting the task
are not made, and time and food are not wasted. If there and ask about anything you are unsure of. Assemble the
is something you do not understand, ask for a further ingredients you will need before starting preparation
explanation or to be shown the procedure again. or cooking, and also assemble all of the tools and
equipment you will need.
The tasks to be completed by each kitchen section and
l Use of equipment and machinery: always make
each member of staff needs to be planned and organised
sure you have been shown how to prepare and use
so that all work is completed efficiently, to the required
equipment for specific tasks. For example, does a
standards and on time.
dessert mould need lining with silicone film? Does a
loaf tin need to be greased and floured? Always make
Following instructions sure you have had full instructions and training before
You will be given a number of instructions during your using equipment or machinery that you are unsure of.
working day and it is important to complete these tasks to l Health and safety/food safety instructions: follow
the best of your ability and with accuracy. These may be the guidelines or training given by your employer and
written down as a task list for you to complete or you may any training courses you may have completed. Some
receive verbal instruction. Whichever way you are given the of these instructions will be legal requirements and it
instructions, read and/or listen carefully, if possible confirm is your legal responsibility to comply with them. Apart
back what is required of you, and ask for further instruction from following the necessary instructions, it is essential
if you don’t understand what you are being asked to do. that you report anything that may cause problems

11

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in maintaining the required standards of health and safety requirements, as well as allowing you to work
safety or food safety. For example, it would be essential efficiently and professionally. ‘Clean as you go’ must be
to report a refrigerator not maintaining the required standard practice in all food preparation areas.
temperature (as food at the wrong temperature can
Do not allow waste to build up in work areas; dispose
cause food poisoning) or an electrical appliance
of waste according to the policies practised by the
with a damaged flex (which could cause an electric
establishment (for example, some items may be placed in
shock or fire).
specific containers for recycling). General waste should be
l Uniform and personal hygiene: instructions on the
placed in a lined waste bin with a foot-operated lid. Make
required standards of kitchen uniform and the standards
sure this is emptied regularly and not allowed to become
of personal hygiene required must be followed precisely.
overfull.
This will give you pride in your own appearance and
professionalism, and will also maintain the standards Ensure that food contact surfaces, such as chopping boards,
and reputation of the establishment you work for. You are clean and sanitised before use. Clean well and sanitise
will have been given instructions about reporting areas between tasks. Organise the equipment you will need
any sickness or infection you may have before you for the work you are completing and consider the best way
start work. It is of the utmost importance, and a legal to complete each task with maximum efficiency.
requirement, that you follow these instructions fully. Put equipment and ingredients away in the proper places
l Emergency procedure instructions: you will have once you have finished using them. Make sure that food
been told the procedure to follow in an emergency items being put away into fridges, freezers and other
such as a fire. Be aware of the procedures and follow storage areas are correctly covered or wrapped and labelled
evacuation instruction correctly. and dated according to the establishment’s policy.
l Standard operational procedure: some instructions
you are given about the way that you work and Working efficiently means that tasks are completed within
complete tasks will be specific to the individual the time allowed, in a well-organised, clean and tidy way,
workplace or a group of establishments. It means that without causing undue stress or tiredness. There have
all employees will be completing tasks in the same been many studies on the way people work best and
way and will be maintaining the same standards. This the provision of working conditions that suit the people
is called the ‘standard operational procedure’ (SOP) working with them – this is often referred to as ergonomics.
and will detail the steps and activities of a process and
the required quality and presentation of the finished
product. An example would be the way a specific dish
was produced, presented, garnished and served at a
banqueting event so each plate looks exactly the same.

Efficient use of time


Organising and managing your time well is important
because kitchen work is generally more time-specific than
many other areas of work. For example, if some office-based
data entry was completed an hour later than planned it
may not be too much of a problem but, if someone ordered
lunch that was an hour late, the customer would rightly
have cause for complaint and would probably not come Keeping waste to a minimum
back again. To meet the time constraints of a busy kitchen Careful preparation, storage and cooking methods, as well
careful planning and organisation is essential. as good staff training, will help to avoid unnecessary kitchen
waste. Waste needs to be avoided for a number of reasons.
Keeping the work area clean, Firstly wastage means the calculated yield from ingredients
will not be achieved; waste is expensive and will affect the
tidy and organised overall cost of what is being produced; also, disposal of
It is important to keep your own work area clean tidy and excessive waste needs to be paid for. Unnecessary waste
well organised as you work. Completing tasks hygienically is now also considered to be ecologically unacceptable,
and protecting food from contamination are legal food placing strain on the planet’s resources.

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We all need to be aware of food sustainability. There are in an organised structure to ensure all work is completed
ever-increasing demands on world food stocks and efforts to the required standards, on time with all team members
are being made to produce food that does not impose understanding their role and responsibilities. Working as
long-term harm on the environment, endanger animal part of a team can allow people to feel valued and learn
or fish species, and provides fair pay and conditions for from each other’s skills and expertise. In a good team people
agricultural workers. Reducing the amounts of food we feel supported in their role allowing for job satisfaction
waste helps to achieve these aims. We are also encouraged and team achievement. The work is completed on time to
to decrease ‘food miles’ where possible, which means high standards and there is a positive and creative working
using local produce rather than similar produce imported environment.
from across the world. Doing this reduces waste on fuel
and storage, and often excess packaging too. Using more
locally sourced food may also result in a high-quality fresher
product as well as adding local or regional interest to the
menu.
Be aware of quantities required before starting preparation.
Take care to avoid unnecessary waste, which can be caused
by:
l over production
l wrong information or lack of information
l careless preparation, for example peeling vegetables
too thickly
l poor cooking procedures, such as overcooking causing
excessive shrinkage or food to be completely spoiled
l poor storage and lack of stock rotation, causing food to
deteriorate Offering help to others
l allowing food to become contaminated, so it then must
On occasions you may need to offer help and assistance
be disposed of to others to make sure the team reaches their targets on
l high-risk food at kitchen temperatures for too long,
time. However, only do this when you have sufficient time
which must then be thrown away. and your own work will not suffer by helping others, if the
help you offer is within your capabilities, and it does not
Asking for help contradict what a supervisor or senior chef has asked you
Working as part of a team means that you will be working to do. If you are not sure about any of this, ask your section
together with others to reach the desired goals within a chef, head chef or line manager.
specific time. Variations of requirements and pressures of Remember that it is the outcome and product of the team
work in different areas mean that you may need to ask for that defines a successful business or operation and it is
help from others to reach your targets on time. less likely that those working in isolation will achieve the
You may also need to ask for help or further instruction if necessary goals.
you don’t understand what you are being asked to do, if
you need advice on how to prioritise tasks, or if you are Passing on information
unsure that you have got a task right. You should speak to At some time in the day you may be left a message or
your supervisor or line manager. given information that needs to be passed on to others
in the team. It is essential that such information is passed
Working effectively with on quickly and accurately. Make sure that the person you
are giving the information to fully hears and understands
team members what you are telling them. If a written note has been left or
Good teamwork is essential in all working environments and an email sent, make sure it has been seen and read by the
kitchen teams have traditionally worked closely together relevant person.

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Such information may include: l poor timekeeping and being unreliable


l a message from a member of staff saying they will not l poor standards of dress and personal appearance
be in work or will be late. Record and pass on details l being inconsiderate to others and unhelpful
such as the time of the call, how late they will be or the l laziness; not completing tasks properly
reason for absence, and how long they expect to be l use of inappropriate language or swearing
away from work (a contact number may also be useful) l producing work that is not of the required standard or
l a late delivery from a supplier or items that could not be not produced on time.
supplied
l bookings or cancellations
Working relationship problems
l arrival of visitors such as maintenance contractors,
Occasionally in busy kitchens pressure, workload and
inspectors or company representatives
personality differences can have negative effects on good
l faulty equipment or supplies running low
working relationships within a team. It is important that you
l changes in the menu
bring any concerns of such problems to the attention of
l information about special dietary requirements or
your line manager or supervisor. You will need to discuss
allergies
what the problem is and why you are concerned, giving
l changes in timing, for example a buffet lunch required
specific examples where possible. You should also say
one hour earlier.
when the problems occur and the frequency. Try to remain
Use the most appropriate way to pass on the information constructive in your discussion of relationship problems so
(for example verbally, written message, email – see that a solution can be planned in the most amicable way.
communication methods below).
Signs of damaging behaviour within the workplace must be
taken very seriously and reported immediately. Examples of
Behaviour that helps teams to this kind of behaviour may include:
work effectively l intimidation – deliberately making someone feel
frightened or nervous in certain situations
Employers value good team members. They will look for
l harassment – annoying or unpleasant behaviour that
employees with the personal qualities to work as part of
takes place regularly, for example threats, offensive
a successful and productive team, and who are able to
remarks or even physical attacks
develop good working relationships with others. A good
l victimisation – to single someone out and treat them
team member is:
unfairly
l reliable, dependable and always punctual
l bullying – hurting, frightening, threatening, persecuting
l someone who takes pride in their personal appearance
or tormenting others; it could also be forcing someone
and is clean, smart, tidy and well groomed
to do something they do not want to do.
l a good communicator, listening to instructions and
passing on relevant information clearly and promptly The above may take the form of:
l someone who completes work on time, asks for l racist comments or gestures
help when needed and offers help to others when l remarks about religion, belief, gender or sexuality
appropriate l remarks about personal characteristics or disabilities
l well organised with the ability to think ahead and l physical or sexual abuse
prioritise tasks as appropriate l belittling and undermining an individual’s
l open to feedback and always willing to learn new skills achievements
and techniques, and learns from experience l ignoring individuals and making them feel isolated
l someone who has empathy with others and listens to l excluding individuals from information and what is
the points of view of other team members going on
l confident and assertive within the specific job role. l threatening behaviour
l humiliating individuals in front of others
Negative behaviour l setting of unrealistic or unachievable targets.

Sometimes however, negative behaviour occurs in a No employee should suffer any of the above and a solution
workplace. This must be discouraged and dealt with to the problem must be found as soon as possible. Discuss
promptly and effectively by someone managing or any concerns that you may have with your line manager,
supervising the area. Negative behaviour can include: supervisor or head chef.

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Work effectively as part of a hospitality team 2

Communicating clearly and l Fax messaging: this ‘older technology’ still has
numerous uses, especially when exact copies,
effectively signed copies, drawings or diagrams need to be sent
Good communication is essential to a successful kitchen elsewhere.
team. There will be many different communication methods l Electronic systems: these have become increasingly
used between: sophisticated and are very popular. Frequently used
l individuals working together systems include email, text messaging, QR codes,
l other kitchen sections and service staff electronic ordering systems, data-logging systems and
l other departments and management systems designed for specific company use, such as
l suppliers and contractors Vocera, Maytas or Opera.
l customers/guests.
Many employees are now given access to their own
Speaking and listening is the most widely used form of company email or other communication system.
communication in a kitchen, so it is important that it carried Increasingly communication takes place through social
out effectively: media such as Twitter, Facebook, LinkedIn and Rehoba.
l Speak clearly and listen carefully so the message is
understood. This is especially important in a noisy
kitchen.
Developing your skills
l Non-verbal gestures, such as facial expressions and Good employees will be keen to learn as much as they can
hand gestures, may help to reinforce the message and about the job they are employed to do, as well as improving
will confirm understanding. and refining their own knowledge and skills. Development
l Take time to communicate properly; avoid speaking within the job role will lead to progression and promotion,
from a distance or speaking while walking past the and will also provide interesting challenges.
other person.
l Avoid interrupting and avoid distractions; listen to what Improving your knowledge and
is being said then respond.
l Do not shout, swear or use inappropriate language.
skills
l When receiving verbal instruction, ask questions where Improving your knowledge and skills is not only beneficial
necessary and summarise the instruction at the end. for you and your career progression but will help to raise
the skills within the team and provide variety and diversity
However, there are many other ways that communication within the workplace. You may also encourage others
takes place in kitchens, including: working with you to develop their skills and knowledge too.
l Non-verbal gestures: non-verbal gestures – such as
a nod, a raised hand or ‘thumb up’ – can be useful, but The ways that you can develop and progress within your
make sure they are not misunderstood, especially when job role include:
communicating between different nationalities and l asking questions of others as well as finding things out

cultures. for yourself


l Written communication: this is very widely used, l working with skilled and experienced colleagues

from formal letters through task lists and brief notes. l attending training provided by your employer or asking

Make sure they are clearly written so that the recipient about courses that interest you
will fully understand the meaning. l attending a full-time or part-time college course

l Pictorial communication: pictures or diagrams are l completing a work-based qualification managed by a

often used in instructions and signs around the kitchen training provider or college
(especially for health and safety instruction). These are l asking for feedback and progression advice

often standardised and are recognised internationally. A l discussing your progress with your managers,

picture, diagram or sketch could also be used to convey supervisors and mentors
meaning where there is a language barrier. l actively participating in formal appraisals, discussing

l Telephone: this remains a very widely used method your performance targets and progression
of communication and there may be specific systems l producing or working to a learning plan (see below).

used in an establishment (for example land lines or


mobile/smart phones).

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Seeking feedback on Reviewing and updating plans


The progress you are making may be monitored and
performance and progression updated by:
Asking for feedback on your work and progression from l keeping your own record with dates in a suitable
your peers, supervisors or senior chefs is a good way of notebook, file, laptop or tablet.
evaluating your performance. Listen to what is said and l regular progress meetings with a tutor, head chef or
maybe take notes. When receiving feedback you may like mentor
to ask questions and discuss which parts of your work l verbal and written feedback
are up to standard and where improvements could be l formal appraisals
made. Agreements can be made and targets set for future l letters or emails
improvement and progression. Recording your progress l logbooks, charts and electronic tracking systems.
and achievements in a learning or progression plan is an
excellent way to check your progress and allows you to
refer back to your initial targets and work towards the final Performance appraisals
outcome. Appraisal is a method by which the job performance
of an employee is reviewed and evaluated, usually by a
manager, supervisor or head chef. An appraisal is a part of
A learning/progression plan guiding and managing career development and is a good
A progression plan allows learning and development to opportunity for uninterrupted discussion between an
be organised, and your progress and achievement can be employee and their line manager. Performance appraisals
monitored. The plan needs to have long-term aims of what are a time to discuss your recent successes, achievements,
you ultimately want to achieve as well as short-term aims personal strengths and weaknesses, and suitability for
that are the steps to get you there. Producing, developing promotion or further education/training. It is an excellent
and taking interest in your learning plan will show your opportunity to discuss ways to progress and enhance your
employer that you are ambitious, proactive and well career prospects. Your learning plan may be something
organised. Planning future progress is a good skill in itself that is useful in helping you to contribute positively to your
and will help you to focus on planning your career. Having appraisal.
a personal learning or development plan will help you to
identify targets and time scales to improve your skills and
advance your career for personal and professional success.
A learning plan could be put in place by:
l your employer, human resources department or
training department
l your head chef, supervisor or mentor
l a training provider or college managing your learning
l you – you can produce your own learning plan or
simply keep a notebook or chart of your goals and
achievements. These can then be discussed at appraisal
or progress meetings.

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Work effectively as part of a hospitality team 2

Test yourself
1 Give three reasons why good, effective teamwork is essential in a kitchen.
2 Why is it important to fully understand exactly what is required from the work
you complete? What could go wrong if you did not understand?
3 Give three reasons why it is important to keep your own working area clean
and tidy.
4 What are the main reasons for avoiding waste when you are working?
5 Suggest two occasions when you may offer help to someone else in your
team. Also, suggest two occasions when you should not give help to
someone else.
6 When might you ask for help from someone else?
7 Describe four pieces of information you may need to pass on to someone else.
What are the ways you could use to pass on the information clearly?
8 Give three examples of positive behaviour in a team and three examples of
negative behaviour.
9 If you were concerned about poor working relationships in your kitchen what
could you do about it?
10 What are the benefits to you of continuing to improve your work knowledge
and skills?
11 How can you get feedback on how you are progressing with your learning
and skills? Suggest a good way to keep a record of your targets and
achievements.

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02 PracticalCookeryL2NVQs Chapter 2.indd 18 05/03/2015 10:33
3 Maintain food safety
This chapter is relevant to the following units:
➜ Maintain food safety when storing, preparing and
cooking food.

This chapter provides the necessary information to enable Although the main reason for adopting high standards of
you to prepare and cook food safely. It focuses on the key food safety is to prevent the possibility of food poisoning,
food safety control areas outlined by the Food Standards there are many more benefits a food business can gain by
Agency: cooking, cleaning, chilling and prevention of cross- keeping food safety standards high. These include:
contamination. It also discusses food safety hazards and the l being compliant with food safety law
measures necessary to control them, from delivery of food l reducing food wastage and improving efficiency
up until the time it is served to the customer, and how to l return business from satisfied customers
comply with food safety legislation. l building a good reputation and receiving fewer
complaints.
What is food safety and
why does it matter? Keeping yourself clean and
Everyone eating food prepared and cooked for them should hygienic
reasonably expect to be served safe food that will not cause All food handlers are a potential source of contamination
them illness or harm them in any way. Food poisoning is still from food poisoning bacteria and other hazards, so it is
a significant problem and it can be serious; food handlers very important that they are aware of the importance
must take great care to prevent it. of high standards of appearance and personal hygiene.
As well as the important part this plays in avoiding food
Food safety means putting in place all of the measures
contamination, it will reflect the professionalism of the
needed to make sure that food and drinks are suitable, safe
individual as well as the establishment they work for, giving
and wholesome through all the processes of food provision,
a positive impression of the food business.
from selecting suppliers and delivery of food right through
to serving the food to the customer. All food handlers need to ensure that they have a daily bath
or shower, clean underwear every day and use a suitable
Eating ‘contaminated’ food can result in food poisoning,
underarm deodorant.
causing harm, illness and, in some cases, even death.
The number of reported cases of food poisoning in the
UK each year remains unacceptably high: between 70,000
Protective clothing
and 94,000 cases reported each year. However, as a large Protective clothing is worn to protect food from
number of food poisoning cases are never reported, no one contamination by food handlers and to protect the wearer
really knows the actual number. from things such as excessive heat, burns and sharp objects.

The term ‘food poisoning’ covers a range of illnesses of the It is very important that food handlers wear suitable clothing
digestive system and is usually caused by eating food that that protects their body; protective footwear should also be
has become contaminated with bacteria and/or the toxins worn.
they may produce. However, there are a number of ways Clothing worn in the kitchen must be strong to make it
that food can become contaminated and cause harm, and ’protective’ and withstand the hard wear and frequent
all must be avoided. washing needed. Clothing will also need to be lightweight,
This chapter covers the various ways that food businesses comfortable and absorbent to deal with perspiration
and food handlers can keep food safe to eat and avoid caused by a hot kitchen.
causing food poisoning.

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Kitchen clothing must be clean and changed at least Footwear


once a day – more frequently if it becomes soiled – to This should be strong and in good repair so as to protect
avoid contamination of food, surfaces and equipment. It and support the feet. As kitchen staff are on their feet for
should cover any other clothing and only be worn in the many hours at a time, care of the feet is essential. Suitable,
kitchen area. Outdoor clothing, and other clothing that has clean, comfortable kitchen footwear and socks need to
been taken off before wearing whites, should be kept in a be worn. Open-toed shoes and trainers are unsuitable as
suitable locker. they would not offer protection from spillage of hot liquids,
According to the Personal Protective Equipment falling knives or heavy items.
(PPE) at Work Regulations 1992, employees must wear
personal protective clothing/equipment suitable for the Disposable gloves
work they are involved in. For example, chefs need to wear These are now available for use in most kitchens. They
protective chef’s whites, but they may also need gauntlet provide a barrier between the food handler and the food,
gloves and eye goggles if cleaning an oven. helping to prevent cross-contamination, for example when
handling raw meat or handling high-risk food. They are also
Jackets and trousers useful for the food handler to wear when they have a cut or
Chef’s jackets are usually made of cotton or a cotton a burn on the hand and there is a possibility that their blue
mixture, are double-breasted and ideally have long sleeves; plaster could fall off, and when completing first-aid tasks. It
these protect the chest and arms from the heat of the stove is important that they are changed frequently.
and prevent hot foods or liquids burning or scalding the
body. Hair
Trousers worn as part of a chef’s uniform are usually made Hair can be a source of food poisoning bacteria and
from a lightweight cotton or coated cotton. They should be contamination from this source must be avoided. Hair
loose fitting for both safety and comfort. falling into food can also be a physical hazard. Hair must
be washed regularly, long hair tied back, and kept covered
White coats with a suitable kitchen hat and/or net to prevent loose hair
It is good practice to keep these available in kitchen areas falling into food. The hair/head should never be scratched,
to wear over standard kitchen clothing when completing combed or touched in the kitchen as bacteria and loose
other tasks such as unloading a delivery or unpacking raw hair could be transferred to the food or food preparation
meat. A white coat should be worn over other clothing equipment.
when leaving the kitchen to complete another job or go
for a break. It is also good practice to offer white coats to Jewellery, rings and watches
anyone visiting the kitchen to cover their own clothing,
The wearing of jewellery is not acceptable when handling
which could cause contamination.
food. Jewellery can trap particles of food and provide
a warm damp environment for bacteria to grow, which
Aprons can then be transferred to food being prepared. This is
Aprons are designed to provide extra protection to the particularly relevant to Items worn on the hands such as
body from being scalded or burned, and particularly to rings and watches. Jewellery or parts of jewellery can also
protect the legs from any liquids that may be spilled. For fall into food, especially as some food preparation involves
this reason the apron should be of sufficient length with plunging hands into water. (Body piercing items can also
long ties, allowing it to be wrapped around the body and be a breeding ground for bacteria, so remove them or
tied at the front, so that it can be removed quickly if a hot completely cover before handling food.)
spillage occurs.

Hats Fingernails
The main purpose of a hat is to prevent loose hairs from These should always be kept clean and short as dirt can
falling into food and to absorb perspiration on the forehead. easily lodge under the nails and be transferred to food,
As well as the traditional chef’s toque (tall white hat) a variety introducing harmful bacteria. Nails must be kept neatly
of designs are now available, some with a net incorporated trimmed and nail varnish must never be worn in food areas.
to contain the hair completely. Lightweight disposable hats
are now used by many establishments.

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Maintain food safety 3

Hand washing Unsafe behaviour


Hands are frequently in contact with food and numerous Touching your face, nose or mouth
other items; if they are not kept clean they can very easily When working with food it is of great importance not to
transfer harmful bacteria to food, surfaces and equipment. touch face, nose or mouth, blow your nose or scratch any
To avoid contamination from hands they must be washed skin areas. If you do need to do any of these things, wash
thoroughly and frequently, particularly after using the toilet, your hands very thoroughly afterwards.
before commencing work, during the handling of food, and The nose should not be touched when food is being
especially between different tasks and after dealing with handled. If a handkerchief/tissue is used, the hands should
waste. Hand washing must be completed using a basin just be washed thoroughly afterwards. The nose is an area
for this purpose. It must have hot and cold running water, where there can be vast numbers of harmful bacteria; it
suitable soap (preferably in a dispenser) and paper towels is therefore very important not to sneeze on food, other
for drying hands. Some establishments also provide an anti- people, working surfaces or equipment. If a sneeze or cough
bacterial gel to apply after hand washing. is unavoidable, turn away and sneeze into the shoulder area.
To ensure that hands are washed thoroughly: The mouth also harbours large numbers of bacteria,
1 Use a basin provided just for hand washing with hot therefore the mouth or lips should not be touched when
and cold running water (preferably with a mixer tap). working with food.
2 Wet hands under warm running water.
3 Apply liquid soap. Ears too are a source of bacteria and should not be touched
4 Rub hands together thoroughly, remembering to clean when handling food.
between fingers and thumbs.
5 Remember fingertips, nails and wrists. Chewing gum
6 Rinse off under running water. Chewing gum is not acceptable when preparing food. It
7 Dry hands on a paper towel and use the paper towel to produces more saliva and may involve touching the lips
turn off the tap before disposing of it. and mouth, which can transfer bacteria to food. It also looks
unprofessional.
A nail brush may also be used to aid thorough hand washing
but always ensure this is clean and disinfected (for example,
keep it in a sanitising solution or consider using disposable Eating in the kitchen
brushes). As a chef you will frequently need to taste the food you
cook to assess the flavour, texture and seasonings. This
You must wash your hands: should be done in a controlled and hygienic way, using
l when you enter the kitchen, before starting work and
a clean teaspoon. Use the spoon only once then clean
handling any food and disinfect it before using again. Alternatively use a
l after a break (especially after using the toilet)
disposable plastic spoon then throw it away. Do not use
l between different tasks, but especially after handling
cooking utensils such as wooden spoons for tasting food,
raw food and before handling ready-to-eat food nor should fingers be used for this purpose as bacteria may
l after touching hair, nose or mouth, or using a tissue for
be transferred to the food.
sneezing or coughing
l after you apply or change a dressing on a cut or burn Eating would refer to consuming a meal or a snack while
l after cleaning preparation areas, equipment or working or in your working area, or picking at the food
contaminated surfaces being prepared. This is a hazard because you are likely to
l after handling kitchen waste, external food packaging, touch the face or mouth, which can then transfer harmful
money or flowers. bacteria to the food.

This will help to reduce the risk of cross-contamination from


contact between food and hands.
Smoking
Smoking is now illegal in most buildings and certainly
You can also avoid excessive hand contact with food by where there is food. If food handlers smoke at break times
using slices, ladles, tongs and spoons where possible, hands must be washed thoroughly afterwards because,
and by using disposable plastic gloves when appropriate when a cigarette is taken from the mouth, bacteria from the
(change these frequently, especially between tasks). mouth can be transferred via the fingers on to food.

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Cuts, burns, infections and certain conditions, especially stomach-related illnesses,


organisms can easily be transferred from the food handler
grazes to the food and this could make the person eating the food
It is particularly important to keep all cuts, burns, boils, unwell. Illnesses that must be reported include:
scratches, grazes and similar abrasions covered with a l diarrhoea, vomiting or other symptoms of a food-
waterproof dressing (blue plaster) to avoid contaminating borne illness – the food handler must not return to
food with bacteria. If these become infected there are large food-handling duties until they have been free from
numbers of harmful bacteria that must not be allowed to symptoms for 48 hours or more
come into contact food. In most cases people suffering in l any skin infections or infected cuts, boils, grazes or
this way should not handle food. Report any infected skin burns
problems or injuries to your supervisor before starting work. l heavy colds and coughs, eye or ear discharges.

Minor cuts, grazes and burns do occur occasionally in


kitchens because of the nature of the work. Most minor Keeping work areas clean
cuts can usually be treated using the contents of the first-
aid box, maybe with the assistance of an appointed first- and hygienic
aider. For more serious cuts and burns it is important to seek Suitable buildings with well-planned fittings, layout and
advice from the first-aider and get medical help as soon as equipment allow for good food safety practices to take place.
possible. It is important to cover any open cuts or burns All surfaces and equipment must be in good condition and
immediately to prevent bacteria from the wound getting kept clean. Certain basics need to be available if a building
into food. is to be used for food production:
l Minor cuts and grazes: place the cut/graze under l there must be an electricity supply and preferably a gas
cold running water, dry it thoroughly and apply a blue supply
waterproof dressing of suitable size. If necessary, also l drinking water and good drainage
wear a disposable glove. If the cut continues to bleed l suitable road access for deliveries and refuse collection
and is not being contained by the dressing, seek further l no risk of contamination from the surrounding area and
help. buildings, such as chemicals, smoke, odours or dust.
l Minor burns: place the injury under cold running
water and keep it there for a minimum of ten minutes
(an ice pack could also be used). If the burn is more
Layout
serious and/or the skin is broken, cover lightly with When planning food premises a linear workflow should be
a sterile dressing and seek medical help. Do not let in place:
adhesive items, creams, antiseptics or kitchen cloths delivery → storage → preparation → cooking → hot
come into contact with the wound. holding → serving
This means there will be no crossover of activities that could
Reporting illnesses and result in cross-contamination. Clean and dirty – and raw and
infections cooked – processes should be well segregated.

Good levels of health and fitness are required to work in There must be adequate storage areas; proper refrigerated
a kitchen, so attention must be paid to maintaining your storage is especially important. Cleaning and disinfection
health with a good diet, adequate exercise and enough should be planned with separate storage areas for cleaning
sleep and rest. Many employers now have an occupational materials and chemicals.
health department to support and advise employees in Sufficient, suitable staff hand washing/drying facilities must
health matters. be provided, as well as personal hygiene facilities for staff,
It is now a legal requirement for all food handlers to including changing and storage areas for personal clothing
report certain illnesses or infections they may have to their and belongings.
line manager/supervisor before starting work as they may All areas should allow for efficient cleaning, disinfection and
be excluded from handling food. This is because with pest control.

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Entrance and
goods in
Staff Kitchen waste
accommodation
and offices Empties store

Cold store Dry goods store


Vegetable store
Equipment store Cleaning store

Food preparation

Meat and Vegetables


fish and salad
General Pastry

Waste food
Cooking
Pot wash

Roasting
Frying Baking Steaming Boiling
Grilling Wash up

Dishing up
Dirties
Service
return
Dining area
Workflow through the areas of the kitchen

Surfaces and equipment Walls


Walls need to be non-porous, smooth, easy to clean and
Lighting and ventilation preferably light in colour. Suitable wall coverings are: plastic
Lighting (natural and artificial) must be sufficient for the
cladding, stainless steel sheeting, ceramic tiles, epoxy resin
tasks being completed to allow for safe working and so that
or rubberised painted plaster or brickwork. Walls should
cleaning can be carried out efficiently.
be coved where they join the floor. Lagging and ducting
Good ventilation is also essential in food premises to around pipes should be sealed and gaps sealed where
prevent excessive heat, condensation, circulation of air- pipes enter the building to stop pests getting in.
borne contaminants, grease vapours and odours.
Ceilings
Drainage Ceiling finishes must resist the build-up of condensation,
Drainage must be adequate for the work being completed which could encourage mould. They should be of a non-
without causing flooding. If channels, grease traps and flaking material and be washable. Non-porous ceiling
gullies are used they should allow for frequent and easy panels and tiles are frequently used and may incorporate
cleaning. lighting.

Floors Windows and doors


These need to be durable and in good condition; they Windows and doors provide possibilities for pests to
must be non-porous, non-slip and easy to clean. Suitable enter the building, so they should be fitted with suitable
materials are: non-slip quarry tiles, epoxy resins, industrial screening, strip-curtains, metal kick plates, and so on. Doors
vinyl sheeting and granolithic flooring. Where the materials and windows should also fit well into their frames to stop
allow, edges between floor and walls should be coved pests gaining access.
(curved) to prevent debris collecting in corners.

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Damaged surfaces and equipment l materials to be used, including chemicals, dilution,


Damaged surfaces can contaminate food by allowing waste cleaning equipment and protective clothing to be worn
and bacteria to build up in cracks and crevasses. Loose parts, l safety precautions necessary
chipped or broken fittings and pieces of broken equipment l signatures of cleaner and supervisor checking the
can also fall into food causing physical contamination. work, as well as the date and time.

If you notice that a piece of equipment is damaged, broken, As a food handler it is important to clean as you go and
cracked, has loose parts or is not working properly, either not allow waste to accumulate in the area where you are
remove it from use or – if it’s too large to do that – put up a working; this is because it is very difficult to keep untidy
sign warning others not to use it. Report the problem with areas clean.
the equipment to a supervisor or whoever is in charge of
food safety immediately. These measures must be taken to Cleaning products
prevent injury to the person using the equipment but also Different cleaning products are designed for different tasks.
to prevent contamination of food and illness or injury to the Detergent is designed to remove grease and dirt and hold
consumer. them in suspension in water. It may be in the form of liquid,
The same applies to damaged surfaces or fittings such as powder, gel or foam, and usually needs to be added to
work surfaces, walls, ceilings, floors and furniture. Attention water. Detergent will not kill pathogens (but the hot water it
must also be given to serving and display equipment to is mixed with may help to do this); however, it will clean and
ensure it is undamaged and in good working order. Cracks degrease so that disinfectant can work properly. Detergents
and crevasses can hold food debris and bacteria, which work best with hot water.
can then be transferred to food. Loose parts from broken Disinfectant is designed to destroy bacteria when used
equipment, cracked tiles or flaking paint can fall into food properly; make sure you only use a disinfectant intended for
as it is being prepared. These could cause illness and injury kitchen use. Disinfectants must be left on a clean, grease-
to the person eating the food, so damaged surfaces and free surface for the required amount of time – contact
equipment must be reported to the responsible person time – to be effective. Heat may also be used to disinfect,
immediately. for example the use of steam cleaners or the hot rinse cycle
of a dishwasher.
Cleaning Sanitiser both cleans and disinfects, and usually comes
Clean food areas are essential in the production of safe food in spray form. Sanitiser is very useful for work surfaces and
and it is a requirement to plan, record and check all cleaning equipment, especially between tasks. It is usual to clean
as part of a cleaning schedule. surfaces with hot water and detergent before spraying with
Clean premises, work areas and equipment are important sanitiser.
to: Items that should be both cleaned and disinfected include:
l control the bacteria that cause food poisoning l all items that come into contact with food, such as
l discourage growth of moulds preparation surfaces, chopping boards, bowls, trays,
l reduce the possibility of physical and chemical knives, serving equipment and utensils, and food
contamination display items
l make accidents less likely, for example slips on a greasy l all hand-contact surfaces, such as door and refrigerator
floor handles, telephones and switches
l create a positive image for customers, visitors and l all equipment used for cleaning, such as cloths, mops,
employees buckets, brooms, dustpans and hand-brushes.
l comply with the law
l avoid attracting pests to the kitchen. Cleaning cloths
The cleaning schedule needs to include the following Take great care with kitchen cloths – they are a growing area
information: for bacteria. Different cloths for different areas will help to
l what is to be cleaned reduce cross-contamination and it is certainly good practice
l who should do it (name if possible) to use different cloths for raw food and high-risk food areas.
l how it is to be done and how long it should take Use of disposable kitchen towel is the most hygienic way to
l when it should be done (for example, the time of day) dry utensils and food preparation areas.

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If a tea towel is used, treat it with great care: remember that Dishwashing by hand
it can easily spread bacteria so don’t use it as an ‘all-purpose If items need to be washed by hand the recommended way
cloth’ and don’t keep it on your shoulder (the cloth touches to do this is:
neck and hair, picking up bacteria). 1 Scrape/rinse off residue food.
2 Wash items in a sink of hot water (the temperature
Cleaning procedures should be 50 °C to 60 °C, which means that rubber
Cleaning kitchen surfaces should be planned and all staff gloves need to be worn). Use a dishwashing brush
need to be trained in a suitable cleaning method, such as rather than a cloth.
one of the following. 3 Rinse in very hot water – if rinsing can be done at 82 °C
for 30 seconds it would disinfect the dishes.
Six-stage process for cleaning a surface 4 Allow to air dry; do not use tea towels.
1 Remove debris and loose particles.
2 Main clean to remove residue and grease. Waste disposal
3 Rinse using clean hot water and cloth to remove the
It is important to deal with kitchen waste quickly, hygienically
detergent.
and safely. If waste is allowed to build up in kitchen areas it
4 Apply disinfectant and leave for the contact time
can encourage pests, allow for multiplication of bacteria,
recommended on the container.
produce unpleasant odours, and items such as food
5 Rinse off the disinfectant (if recommended).
trimmings and packaging materials could fall into food that
6 Allow to air dry or use kitchen paper.
is being prepared.
Four-stage process for cleaning a surface All food handlers should keep areas clear, clean and waste
1 Remove debris and loose particles. to a minimum. Kitchen waste should be placed in waste
2 Main clean using hot water, detergent and sanitiser. bins with lids. They should preferably be foot-operated to
3 Rinse using clean hot water and cloth if recommended reduce contamination to the hands. Bins should be made of
on instructions. a strong material, usually a thick plastic, with a strong plastic
4 Allow to air dry or use kitchen paper. liner bag placed inside, be easy to clean and pest proof.
To deal with waste hygienically bins should be emptied
Cleaning is essential to prevent hazards but, if not managed
very regularly to avoid waste build-up; the task of keeping
properly, can become a hazard in itself. Do not store cleaning
kitchen waste bins emptied and cleaned/disinfected
chemicals in food preparation and cooking areas, and take
should be listed on the cleaning schedule with a specific
care with their use to avoid chemical contamination. Make
person responsible for doing this. An over-full, heavy bin is
sure that items such as cloths, paper towels and fibres from
much more difficult to handle and empty than a bin that is
mops do not get into open food (physical contamination).
emptied regularly.
Bacterial contamination could occur by using the same
cleaning cloths and equipment in raw food areas then in Outside waste should be in strong containers with lids to
high-risk food areas, or by using dirty cloths and equipment. prevent pests getting in. They should preferably be raised
from the floor (usually by wheels) and on a hard surface,
Dishwashing such as concrete, that can be hosed down and kept clean.
Outside waste bins should be emptied regularly.
Automatic dishwashing
The most efficient and hygienic method of cleaning dishes
and crockery is the use of a dishwashing machine as this will Pests
clean and disinfect items that will then air dry, removing the When there are reports of food premises being heavily fined
need for cloths. The dishwasher can also be used to clean/ or forcibly closed down, an infestation of pests is often the
disinfect small equipment such as chopping boards. The reason. As pests can be a serious source of contamination
stages in machine dishwashing are: and disease, they must be eliminated for food safety reasons
1 Remove waste food. and to comply with the law. Pests can carry food-poisoning
2 Pre-rinse or spray. bacteria into food premises from their fur/feathers, feet/
3 Load on to the appropriate racks with a space between paws, saliva, urine and droppings. Other problems caused
each item. by pests include damage to food stock and packaging;
4 The wash cycle runs at 50 °C to 60 °C using a detergent. damage to buildings, equipment and wiring; and blockages
5 The rinse cycle runs at 82 °C to 88 °C which will disinfect in equipment and piping.
items ready for air drying.
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Pests are attracted to food premises because there may be ants), birds and domestic pets. Pest management needs to
food, warmth, shelter, water and possible nesting materials; be planned as part of the food safety management system.
all reasonable measures must be put in place to keep them Regular visits from a recognised pest control company are
out. Any possible signs that pests may be present must be advisable because they will offer advice as well as deal with
reported to the supervisor or manager immediately. problems arising. Companies conducting a regular audit will
provide a pest audit report, which should be kept and could
Common pests that may cause problems in food areas are:
be used as part of the food safety management system.
rats, mice, cockroaches, wasps, flies, ants (including pharaoh
Table 3.1 Signs of pest presence
Pest Signs that they are present
Rats and mice Sightings of rodents, droppings, unpleasant smell, gnawed wires, etc. Greasy marks on lower walls,
damaged food stock, paw prints.
Flies and wasps Sighting of flies and wasps, hearing them, dead insects, maggots.
Cockroaches Sightings (dead or alive) usually at night, unpleasant smell.
Ants Sightings and present in food; the tiny, pale-coloured Pharaoh ants are difficult to spot but can still
be the source of a variety of pathogens.
Weevils Sightings of weevils in stored products, e.g. flour or cornflour; may be difficult to see – tiny black
insects moving in flour.
Birds Sightings, droppings, in outside storage areas and around refuse.
Domestic pets These must be kept out of food areas as they carry pathogens on fur, whiskers, saliva, urine, etc.

Measures to keep pests out of the building are of great Pest control measures can also introduce food safety
importance and need to be planned. Pest control hazards. Bodies of dead insects or even rodents may remain
contractors can offer advice on keeping pests out as well in the kitchen (physical and bacterial contamination).
as organise eradication systems for any pests that do get in. Pesticides, insecticides and baits could cause chemical
Some basic guidelines are: contamination if not managed properly. Pest control is best
l block entry – for example no holes around pipe work, managed by professionals.
avoid all gaps and cavities where they could get in,
sealed drain covers
l damage to the building or fixtures and fittings should
Storing food safely
be repaired quickly Checking food on delivery
l window/door screening/netting should be in place For food to remain in top condition and be safe to eat it
l check deliveries/packaging for pests is essential that food deliveries are carefully checked, that
l baits and traps used as appropriate correct storage is in place and that procedures are fully
l electronic fly killer (EFK) in place to deal with flying understood by all kitchen staff. Only approved suppliers
insects should be used who can assure that food is delivered in
l use of sealed containers so no open food left out the best condition in suitable, undamaged packaging,
l not allowing a build up of waste in the kitchen properly date coded and at the correct temperature. Food
l outside waste not kept too close to the kitchen suppliers need to be able to provide information on the
l planned pest management control, surveys and reports. product from source through to the time it is delivered
Flying insets cause problems as they can find their way to you (traceability). Packaged or processed food of any
in through very small spaces or from other parts of the kind will have a list of ingredients listed on the pack. If the
building. They can then spread bacteria around the kitchen food is removed from this packaging for storage, retain
and on to open food. To eliminate insects such as flies, the ingredient lists because they will give essential allergy
bluebottles and wasps, an EFK is recommended. These advice.
use ultraviolet light to attract the insects, which are then l All deliveries should be checked then moved to the
electrocuted on charged wires and fall into catch trays. Do appropriate storage area as soon as possible and
not position an EFK directly above food preparation areas chilled/frozen food within 15 minutes of delivery.
and make sure the catch trays are emptied regularly.

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l Use a food probe to check the temperature of food kept clean and tidy, and this needs to be planned as part of
deliveries; record these temperatures and keep as part the cleaning schedule. If you notice that these areas are not
of the food safety management system: clean and tidy report it to a supervisor who can deal with
– chilled food should be below 5 °C (reject it if above the matter properly.
8 °C)
– frozen food should be at or below −18 °C (reject it if The multi-use refrigerator
above −15 °C). The following guidelines apply if a refrigerator is used to
l Many suppliers now provide a print out of temperatures store various types of food:
at which food was delivered, (save these printouts in l It is best practice to keep the refrigerator running
kitchen records). between 1 °C and 4 °C (the legal requirement is 8 °C).
l Dry goods should be in undamaged packaging, well l Food must be covered and labelled with name of item
within best-before dates, be completely dry and in and the date.
perfect condition on delivery. l Always store raw food at the bottom of the refrigerator

When receiving a delivery of food check: with other items above.


l the items are the quantity, size and quality ordered l Keep high-risk foods well away from raw foods.

l packaging and food is undamaged l Never overload a refrigerator – to operate properly cold

l food is at the required temperature (see above) air must be allowed to circulate between items.
l food is within use-by dates or has a suitable best-before l Wrap strong-smelling foods very well as their smell (and

date taste) can transfer to other foods, for example milk.


l there are no signs of deterioration or spoilage of the l Record the temperature at which the refrigerator

food is operating at least once a day. Keep the fridge


l there are no signs of pests present in the food or temperatures with other kitchen records.
packaging Refrigerators must be cleaned regularly:
l no cross-contamination is evident in the delivery, for l Remove food to another refrigerator.
example raw and cooked food packaged together. l Clean according to the cleaning schedule using a
recommended sanitiser (a solution of bicarbonate of
Preparing food for storage soda and water is also good for cleaning refrigerators).
l Remember to empty and clean any drip trays, and clean
It is important to prepare food for storage to ensure there is
door seals thoroughly.
no risk of cross-contamination and that food is labelled and
l Rinse then dry with kitchen paper.
maintained at correct temperatures. Remove food items
l Make sure the refrigerator front and handle is cleaned
from their outer packaging – being careful to check for any
and disinfected to avoid cross-contamination.
possible pests that may have found their way in – before
l Make sure the refrigerator is back down to a
placing the products in a refrigerator, freezer or dry store.
temperature between 1 °C and 4 °C before replacing
Fresh food, such as meat or fish on trays, should be covered the food in the proper positions. Check the dates and
well with cling film, dated and labelled, and then placed in condition of all food before replacing.
the appropriate refrigerated area.
Segregate any unfit food from other food until it is thrown Correct food storage
away or collected by supplier. This is to avoid any possible
contamination to other foods. Storing raw meat and poultry
Raw meat and poultry should be stored in a separate
refrigerator running at temperatures between 1 °C and 4 °C
The storage area where possible. If not already packaged place on trays, cover
Once a food delivery has been accepted it must be placed well with cling film and label. If it is necessary to store meat
in the correct storage area. This will reduce the possibility or poultry in a multi-use refrigerator, make sure it is covered,
of cross-contamination and help to ensure that the food labelled and placed at the bottom of the refrigerator, well
remains fresh and in best condition. All storage areas away from other items.
(refrigerators, freezers, cold rooms, dry store areas) must be

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Storing fish this date. ‘Blown’ cans must never be used, and do not
A separate fish refrigerator running between 1 °C and 4 °C is use badly dented or rusty cans. Once opened transfer any
best. Remove fresh fish from ice containers and place on trays, unused canned food to a clean bowl, cover and label it, and
cover well with cling film and label. If it is necessary to store store it in the refrigerator for up to two days.
fish in a multi-use refrigerator, make sure it is well covered,
labelled and placed at the bottom of the refrigerator, well Storing cooked and ready-to-eat
away from other items. Remember that odours from fish can foods
permeate other items such as milk or eggs. Foods that are purchased ready-cooked or cooked and
then stored include a wide range of items such as cooked
Storing dairy products and eggs meats and fish, pies and other pastry items, pâté, cream
Pasteurised milk and cream, eggs and cheese should be cakes, desserts and savoury flans. They will usually be ‘high-
stored in their original containers between 1 °C and 4 °C. risk foods’ so correct storage is essential. Check the labelling
Sterilised or UHT milk can be kept in the dry store following on individual items for specific storage instructions but,
the storage instructions on the label. generally, keep them refrigerated between 1 °C and 4 °C.
After delivery, eggs should be stored at a constant Store carefully, wrapped and labelled, and well away from
temperature – a refrigerator is the best place. and above raw foods to avoid any cross-contamination.
Food being held for service must be kept above 63 °C
Storing and defrosting frozen foods (or below 5 °C). If food is being cooled to serve cold or
Store frozen food in a freezer running at –18 °C or below. for reheating at a later time, it must be protected from
Separate raw foods from ready-to-eat foods, and never allow contamination and cooled quickly, that is, to 8 °C within
food to be refrozen once it has thawed. (For information on 90 minutes. The best way to do this is in a blast chiller.
defrosting see ‘Preparing, cooking and holding food safely’ Any food that is to be chilled or frozen must be well wrapped
below.) or placed in a suitable container with a lid, (items may also
be vacuum packed). Make sure that all food is labelled and
Storing fruit, vegetables and salad dated before chilling or freezing.
items
Storage conditions will vary according to type. For example, Stock rotation
sacks of potatoes, root vegetables and some fruit can be
stored in a cool, well-ventilated store room, but salad First in – first out
items, green vegetables, soft fruit and tropical fruit would This term is used to describe stock rotation and is applied to
be better in refrigerated storage. If possible, a specific all categories of food. It simply means that foods already in
refrigerator running at around 8 °C would be ideal to avoid storage must be used before new deliveries (providing stock
any chill damage. is still within recommended dates and in sound condition).
Food deliveries should be labelled with their delivery date
Storing dry goods and preferably the date by which they should be used (see
food labelling codes below). Written stock records should
Dry goods, such as rice, dried pasta, sugar, flour and
form a part of a food safety management system.
grains, should be stored at ambient temperatures (room
temperature). They should be kept in clean, covered
containers on wheels or in smaller sealed containers on Food labelling codes
shelves to stop pests getting into them. Storage should be l Use-by dates appear on perishable foods with a short
in a cool, well-ventilated dry store area and well-managed life. Legally, the food must be used by this date and
stock rotation is essential. Remember to keep packaging should not stored or used after it. Food past its use-by
information as this may include essential allergy advice. date must be thrown away.
l Best-before dates apply to foods that are expected
Storing and handling canned products to have a longer life, such as dry products or canned
food. A best-before date advises that food is at its best
Cans are usually stored in the dry store area and, once
before this date; using it after this date is still legal but
again, rotation of stock is essential. Canned food will carry
not advised.
best-before dates and it is not advisable to use them after

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Bacteria that are harmful are called pathogenic bacteria


and can cause food poisoning. Bacteria are very small – so
small that you would need to use a microscope to see them;
you would not be able to taste them or smell them on
food. This is why pathogenic bacteria are so dangerous: you
can’t tell if they are in food or not. When bacteria have the
conditions they need – food, warmth, moisture and time –
they can multiply approximately every 10 to 20 minutes by
dividing in half (this is called binary fission).
Common food-poisoning bacteria include the following:
l Salmonella used to be the most common cause of
food poisoning in the UK but, since measures were put
in place to reduce salmonella in chickens and in eggs,
Examples of food labelling food poisoning from this source has reduced. One of
the main sources of salmonella now is the human and

Preparing, cooking and animal gut and excreta, but it is also found on pests
such as rodents, insects and birds and in raw meat and
holding food safely poultry, eggs and shellfish. Salmonella poisoning can
also be passed on through human carriers (someone
Food safety hazards carrying salmonella but not showing any signs of illness).
There are a number of ways that food could be exposed l Staphylococcus aureus is found mainly on the
to hazards that could result in it becoming contaminated. human body and can be present on the skin, hair and
Contaminated food can cause illness or even be fatal to scalp, nose and throat. Cuts, spots, burns and boils will
those eating it. It is important to be aware of this and to also be a source of this organism. When it multiplies in
check food frequently and follow the required procedures food, a toxin (poison) is produced that is very difficult
from delivery right through until the time it is served. to kill, even with boiling temperatures. To avoid food
poisoning from this organism, food handlers need to
Contamination of food from pathogenic bacteria
maintain very high standards of personal hygiene and
(biological contamination) is considered to be the most
report any illness they may have to their supervisor
dangerous hazard of all because food can be dangerously
before handling food.
contaminated with bacteria but still look, smell and taste
l Clostridium perfringens can be present in human
fine. There is increasing concern about allergenic hazards
and animal faeces and raw meat, poultry and
too, especially as these can be hidden ingredients in food
vegetables (as well as insects, soil, dust and sewage). A
but can still cause dangerous reactions.
number of food-poisoning incidents from this organism
have occurred when large amounts of meat are brought
Biological contamination up to cooking temperatures slowly and then allowed to
Biological contamination can occur from pathogenic cool slowly. Clostridium perfringens can produce spores
bacteria and the toxins they may produce. Viruses, yeasts, during this heating/cooling process. Spores are very
moulds, spoilage bacteria and enzymes are all around us: resistant to any further cooking and allow bacteria to
in the environment, on raw food, on humans, animals, birds survive in conditions that would usually kill them.
and insects. Pathogenic bacteria are of most concern as l Bacillus cereus is another organism that can produce
they can multiply to dangerous levels but still not be visible spores, and it can also produce two different toxins, so
except with a microscope. When pathogenic bacteria it is a very dangerous pathogen. It is often associated
multiply in food or use food to get into the human body, with cooking rice in large quantities, cooling it too
illness can result. slowly and then reheating. The reheating temperatures
are not enough to destroy the spores and toxins. It has
Bacteria and food poisoning also been linked with other cereal crops, spices, soil and
Not all bacteria are harmful: some are very useful and vegetables.
are used to good effect in the manufacture of foods and l Clostridium botulinum is fortunately rare; the
medicines. Making milk into yoghurt and making cheese symptoms can be very serious, even fatal. Sources tend
may use bacteria in the process. to be intestines of fish, soil and vegetables.

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Toxins l Norovirus: like all viruses, norovirus will not multiply on


Toxins (poisons) can be produced by some bacteria as they food but it may live for a short time on surfaces, utensils
multiply in food. They are heat resistant and may not be and food, and use these to get into the body. The usual
killed by the normal cooking processes that kill bacteria, way this is spread is airborne, person-to-person, water
so they remain in the food and can cause illness. Other or sewage.
bacteria produce toxins as they die, usually in the intestines
of the person who has eaten the food. Chemical contamination
Chemical contamination can occur when chemical items get
Spores into food accidentally; these can then make the consumer
Some bacteria are able to form spores when the suffer discomfort or become ill. The kinds of chemical that
conditions surrounding them become hostile, such as can get into food could be cleaning fluids, disinfectants,
when temperatures rise or in the presence of chemicals machine oil, degreasers and pesticides. Problems can also
such as disinfectant. A spore forms a protective ‘shell’ occur when there are chemical reactions between things
inside the bacteria, protecting the essential parts from such as metal containers and acidic foods.
the high temperatures of normal cooking, disinfection
and dehydration. Once spores are formed the rest of the Physical contamination
cell disperses – it cannot divide and multiply as before but Physical contamination is caused when something gets
simply survives until conditions improve, for example high into foods that should not be there, such as glass; nuts,
temperatures drop to a level where the cell can reform and bolts and oil from machinery; mercury from thermometers;
multiplication can start again. Prolonged cooking times flaking paint; pen tops; threads and buttons from clothing;
and/or very high temperatures are needed to kill spores. blue plasters; hair and insects.
Time is very important in preventing the formation of
spores. Large amounts of food, such as meat for stewing, Allergenic contamination
when brought slowly to cooking temperature, allows time An allergy is when the immune system in some people
for spores to form; these are then very difficult to kill. Bring reacts to certain food, causing swelling, itching, rashes,
food up to cooking temperature quickly and cool food breathlessness and even cause anaphylactic shock, (a
quickly. severe reaction causing swelling of the throat and mouth,
which prevents breathing). Food intolerance is different
Food-borne illness and does not involve the immune system, but there may
Some different organisms from the ones named above are still be a serious reaction to some foods. Foods usually
said to cause food-borne illness. These pathogens do not associated with allergies and intolerances are: nuts, dairy
multiply in food but use food to get into the human gut products, wheat-based products and gluten, eggs, fish and
where they then multiply and cause a range of illnesses shellfish. Some people may also have an allergy to some
(some of them serious), including severe abdominal fruits, vegetables, plants and mushrooms.
pain, diarrhoea, vomiting, headaches, blurred vision, flu
symptoms, septicaemia and miscarriage. These organisms It is very important for all food handlers to have some
may be transmitted from person-to-person, in water or be knowledge of allergens and the foods or ingredients that
airborne, as well as through food. could cause allergic reactions. All food businesses must
have information and procedures in place for providing safe
Food-borne pathogens include: food for allergy sufferers. Correct allergen information must
l Campylobacter: causes more food-related illness than be given to the customer about the food being served
any other organism. It is found in raw poultry and meat, to them. If in doubt seek advice from someone senior in
sewage, animals, insects and birds. your team and discuss the customer’s requirements with
l E. coli 0157: present in the intestines and excreta of them. It is very important that you follow your workplace
animals and humans, raw meat, and can be present on procedures for allergies and provide accurate information
raw vegetables. at all times.
l Listeria: of concern because it can multiply (slowly)
at fridge temperatures, that is, below 5 °C. It has been Provision of certain food allergy information became
linked with chilled products such as unpasteurised mandatory in December 2014: all businesses offering food
cheeses, pâté and prepared salads, as well as cook/chill to customers must now provide this information. Under
meals. EU regulation FIR 1169/2011, specific information on 14

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allergens/ingredients must be available, irrespective of Food preservation will often combine methods to ensure
whether the food is packaged or chosen from a menu, effective preservation, for example vacuum-packed fish will
although allergy information about menu items may be also be refrigerated, as would pasteurised milk.
provided verbally as long as it is accurate. Statements such
as ‘may contain nuts’ are no longer adequate. For more
information and advice go to the Food Standards Agency’s
Controlling hazards
website (www.food.gov.uk). As a food handler it is your responsibility, along with those
working with you, to assist in the control of food hazards.
There are a number of ways that the range of hazards
Poisoning from other items described above can be controlled. These include:
Some foods can be naturally poisonous, such as some
l strict and careful standards of personal hygiene
types of mushroom and undercooked red kidney beans.
l reporting of illness to the appropriate person
Some oily fish can develop toxins if stored at too high a
l keeping work areas clean and hygienic
temperature, and occasionally some shellfish can cause
l storing food correctly and at the appropriate
illness when they have fed on poisonous plankton.
temperatures
Some moulds can produce toxins as they grow; these are l cooking food to the required temperature
called mycotoxins. Mycotoxins can cause serious illness l taking care to avoid cross-contamination.
and have been linked with cancers. Do not use mouldy
The food handler is also in a good position to notice any
food (controlled moulds, such as in blue cheeses, are fine).
possible hazards that could be a risk to food safety. These
should be reported immediately to a supervisor, head chef
Food spoilage and food preservation or senior chef, or anyone else with responsibility for food
Most foods have a limited life and will eventually deteriorate safety in the area.
due to moulds, yeasts, enzymes or bacteria. Spoilage of
food also occurs due to exposure to oxygen, moisture or
chemicals; damage by pests; or by poor handling and bad Cross-contamination
storage. Cross-contamination occurs when bacteria are transferred
from one place to another. This is usually from contaminated
Unlike bacterial contamination, which is impossible to detect
food (mostly raw food), equipment or surfaces to ready-
in a normal kitchen situation, food spoilage can usually be
to-eat food. It is the cause of significant amounts of food
observed by sight, smell, taste and touch. Spoilage could
poisoning and care must be taken to avoid it. Cross-
include mouldy, slimy, dried-up or over-wet fresh foods.
contamination could be caused by:
Blown cans and vac-packs and food with freezer burn are
l foods touching, for example raw and cooked meat
also a sign of food spoilage.
l raw meat or poultry dripping on to high-risk foods
Different methods have been developed to prolong the l soil from dirty vegetables coming into contact with
natural life of various foods and keep them fresh. These high-risk foods
include: l dirty cloths, dirty staff uniforms or dirty equipment
l use of heat – cooking, canning, sterilisation, UHT, l equipment used for raw then cooked food, for example
pasteurisation chopping boards or knives
l use of heat and sealing – canning, bottling, cooking l hands touching raw then cooked food, not washing
then vacuum packaging hands between tasks, and so on
l use of low temperatures – chilling, freezing l hands touching items such as door handles, refrigerator
l exclusion of air – vacuum packaging handles or telephones
l changing gases surrounding food – modified l pests spreading bacteria around the kitchen.
atmosphere packaging
l removal of moisture – dehydrated foods Controlling cross-contamination
l use of acids, sugar or salt concentrations Completely separate working areas and storage areas for
l food preservatives – for example, nitrates and raw and high-risk foods are strongly recommended. If this
sulphates. is not possible, keep them well away from each other and
make sure that working areas are thoroughly cleaned and
disinfected between tasks.

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Vegetables should be washed before preparation and Clean and sanitise worktops and chopping boards before
again afterwards. Leafy vegetables may need to be washed working on them and do this again after use, paying
in several changes of cold water to remove all of the soil particular attention when they have been used for raw
present. foods.
Good personal hygiene practices by staff, in particular Chopping boards can be disinfected after use by putting
frequent and effective hand washing, is very important them through a dishwasher with a high rinse temperature
in controlling cross-contamination and will avoid the of 82 °C (high temperatures will kill bacteria).
significant amounts of contamination caused by faecal/oral
Small equipment, such as knives, bowls, spoons and
routes (this is when pathogens normally found in faeces
tongs, could also be the cause of cross-contamination;
are transferred to ready-to-eat foods resulting in cross-
it is important to wash them thoroughly (once again a
contamination and illness). An obvious way that this may
dishwasher does it well). This is especially important when
happen is when food handlers visit the toilet, do not wash
they are used for a variety of cooked and raw food.
their hands properly, then handle food.
Colour-coded chopping boards are a good way to keep
different types of food separate. Worktops and chopping
Methods, times, temperatures
boards come into contact with the food being prepared so and checks for keeping food
need special attention. Make sure that chopping boards are safe
in good condition: cracks and splits could trap bacteria and
this could be transferred to food. Defrosting frozen foods before
As well as colour-coded chopping boards some kitchens cooking
also provide colour-coded knives, cloths, cleaning Most frozen foods will need to be defrosted before use.
equipment, storage trays, bowls and even staff uniforms to This is because, if the food is still frozen or partly frozen, it
help prevent cross-contamination. is unlikely to reach the temperatures required in the centre
to kill any bacteria present. The exceptions to this are small
or thin foods such as pizza, vegetables, and small items
of prepared fish or chicken that would defrost fully in the
cooking process.
If you need to defrost frozen food, such as a whole chicken,
place it in a deep tray, cover it with film and label, stating
what the item is and the date when defrosting was started.
Place at the bottom of the refrigerator where thawing liquid
can’t drip on to anything else. Thaw food completely (no ice
crystals on any part), then cook thoroughly within 12 hours.
Make sure that you allow enough time for this process – it
may take longer than you think! (A 2 kg chicken will take
about 24 hours to defrost at 3 °C.)

Cooking and reheating


Thorough cooking is one of the best methods available to
control bacteria.
Cooking to 75 °C and holding that temperature for at least
two minutes will kill most pathogens (but not spores and
toxins). These temperatures are important, especially where
large amounts are being cooked or the consumers are in
the high-risk categories. However, some popular dishes
on hotel and restaurant menus are cooked to a lower
temperature than this according to individual dish and
The colour-coding system customer requirements.

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Keep food being held for service above 63 °C, or cool it Cooling/chilling cooked food
rapidly and keep below 5 °C. Never put hot or warm food If food is being cooled/chilled to serve cold or for reheating
into a refrigerator or freezer – this will raise the temperature at a later time, it must be protected from contamination
and put food into the danger zone. and cooled quickly to 8 °C within 90 minutes. This will help
prevent multiplication of any bacteria that may be present
Checking food is thoroughly cooked/ and avoids possible problems with spores forming. The best
reheated way to cool food is in a blast chiller but, if this is not available,
Electronic temperature probes are very useful to measure place it in the coolest part of the kitchen, making sure that
the temperature in the centre of both hot and cold food. it is protected from contamination while it is cooling. Any
They are also very useful for recording the temperature of food that has been above 8 °C (but below 63 °C) for more
deliveries and checking food temperatures in refrigerators. than two hours must be thrown away.
Make sure that the probe is clean and disinfected before
To freeze cooked food:
use (disposable disinfectant wipes are useful for this). Place
l chill it first
the probe into the centre of the food, making sure it is not
l wrap well or place in a suitable covered container
touching bone or the cooking container.
l label and date, then freeze quickly
l defrost before using.

The running temperature of refrigerators, freezers and chill


cabinets should be checked and recorded at least once a
day. Refrigerators and chill cabinets should be below 5 °C
and freezers below −18 °C.
Systems are now available to automatically log temperatures
of all fridges, freezers and display cabinets in a business.
Temperatures are recorded and sent to a central computer
several times a day. These can then be printed or stored
electronically as part of due diligence record keeping. Units
not running at correct temperatures will be highlighted by
the system.

Holding food for service


Check regularly that probes are working correctly Wherever possible food on display should be kept under
(calibration). This can be done electronically, but a simple refrigeration and the temperature should be checked to
and low-cost check is to place the probe in icy water – the ensure that it is being maintained at a safe level. Where
reading should be 0 °C. Next, place the probe in boiling customers are close to displayed food it should be behind
water and the temperature reading should be 100 °C. In a clear sneeze screen.
both cases one degree higher or lower is acceptable. If
probes read outside of these temperatures they need to be Dishes prepared in advance should be covered with cling
repaired or replaced. When calibration of probes has been film and refrigerated at between 1 °C and 3 °C to keep them
completed, record these temperatures and keep as part of safe and stop them drying out.
the food safety management system.

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Table 3.2 Important temperatures when dealing with food


Food Important temperature
Food stored in a freezer (no bacterial growth but Store at −18 °C to −23 °C
does not kill bacteria, toxins or spores)
Refrigerated food: Store at 1 °C to 4 °C*
l raw meat/poultry
l raw fish and shellfish
l cooked meats/meat products
l cooked fish/fish products
l dairy products/fats
l eggs
l salad items, herbs, leafy vegetables
l cooked foods/high-risk items
Ambient stored food: Store at 10 °C to 15 °C in a cool, well-ventilated place
l canned food
l dry goods
l grains
l general grocery items
Cooked hot food (a temperature that will kill Core (centre) temperature must reach 75 °C
bacteria but not spores and probably not toxins)
Cooked fish (Environmental Health Officers may Core (centre) temperature must reach 63 °C
advise a higher temperature)
Reheated food Core (centre) temperature must reach 75 °C (82 °C in Scotland)
Hot food being held for service Keep above 63 °C – if below this temperature for more than two
hours it must be thrown away
*Although the law says that ‘foods which support growth of pathogens or formation of toxins must not be stored above 8 °C’ it is
recognised best practice to store below 5 °C.

100°C Boiling point of water Food safety management


systems
75°C Cook most food to this In line with the Food Standards Agency’s commitment to
temperature or above for at least
2 minutes to kill most bacteria reduce food poisoning, all food businesses are required by
(spores will not be killed)
law to have a food safety management system and this will
63°C Bacteria start to die: hold hot
food above this temperature
be checked by Environmental Health Officers (EHOs) when
they inspect premises.

5–63°C Managing food safety with a good recording system will


DANGER ZONE
37°C Body temperature: bacteria
help to control hazards and keep them at a safe level. If
Bacteria grow
particularly quickly
multiply rapidly hazards are not controlled, contamination could occur
between 20 and and outbreaks of food poisoning could be the result. All
50°C food handlers must be well trained to make them aware
of possible hazards and that, in terms of food safety, some
5°C Bacteria could start to multiply
slowly
hazards are more important than others. They must remain
0°C Water freezes aware of the procedures in their workplace for what to
do when things go wrong and how to report potential
hazards. As discussed earlier in this chapter, hazards are
–18°C A freezer should run at this controlled by: cooking, chilling, cleaning and avoiding
temperature or below. Bacteria will
survive but not multiply cross-contamination.

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Hazard Analysis Critical Control 4 Monitor CCPs – put checks in place to stop problems
happening.
Points 5 Corrective action – what will be done if something goes
All food safety management systems must be based on wrong?
Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points (HACCP). This 6 Verification – check that the HACCP plan is working.
is a recognised system that looks at identifying the critical 7 Documentation – record all of the above.
points for stages in any process, the hazards that may occur
Purchase
and how these will be controlled.
All processes in the kitchen must be monitored so it is Transport
easier to identify if the procedure is not working properly.
Delivery
Where there are problems, such as food not reaching the
required temperature to kill bacteria, systems must be in Refrigeration
place for staff to report this so that correct procedures are
put in place immediately. The system needs to provide a Preparation

documented record of the stages all food will go through


Cooking Chilling
right up to the time it is eaten, and may include:
l purchase and delivery Prepare for service Refrigerate Reheat
l receipt of food
Serve to customers
l storage
l preparation An HACCP flow diagram for cooking a
l cooking fresh chicken
l cooling
The example in this diagram relates to the cooking of a
l hot holding
chicken. When dealing with a fresh chicken it is necessary to
l reheating
recognise the possible hazards at all of the identified stages:
l chilled storage
l Hazard – pathogenic bacteria is likely to be present in
l serving.
raw chicken.
Once the hazards have been identified, corrective measures l Control – the chicken needs to be cooked thoroughly
are put in place to control the hazards and keep the food to +75 °C to ensure pathogens are killed.
safe. l Monitor – check the temperature where the thigh
joins the body with a calibrated temperature probe,
The system must be updated regularly, especially when
make sure no parts of the flesh are pink and juices are
new items are introduced to the menu or systems change –
running clear, not red or pink.
specific new controls must be put in place to include them
l Hot holding – the chicken must be kept above 63 °C
(for example, if a new piece of cooking equipment has been
before service; this can be checked with a temperature
installed).
probe.
The HACCP system involves seven stages: l Or chill and refrigerate – chill to below 10 °C within
1 Identify hazards – what could go wrong? 90 minutes. Cover, label and refrigerate below 5 °C.
2 Identify the CCPs (critical control points) – i.e. the l Documentation – temperatures must be measured
important points where things could go wrong. and recorded. Hot-holding equipment should be
3 Set critical limits for each CCP – e.g. temperature checked and the temperature recorded. Record any
requirements on delivery of fresh chicken. corrective measures necessary.

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Table 3.3 shows this example in more detail.


Table 3.3 An HACCP control chart for cooking a fresh chicken for later reheating
Corrective
Process steps Hazards Controls Critical limit Monitoring action
Purchase Contamination, Approved Agreed delivery All food is to Change supplier
pathogens, mould supplier temperatures for agreed standards
or foreign bodies chilled/frozen
present in food food
Transport and Multiplication of Refrigerated Delivery Check delivery Reject if >8 °C or
delivery harmful bacteria vehicles temperature of vehicles, past ‘use by’ date
chicken below date marks,
5°C temperatures
Refrigerate Bacterial growth Store below 5 °C Store below 5°C Check and record Discard if signs of
temperature twice spoilage or past
Further Separate raw and
a day date mark
contamination cooked foods
(bacteria, Check date
Use within ‘use
chemicals, etc.) marks
by’ date
Stock rotation
Prepare Bacterial growth No more than Two hours out Supervisor to Discard if >8 °C
30 minutes in of refrigeration – audit at regular for two hours
Further
‘danger zone’ discard intervals
contamination
Good personal Visual checks
hygiene
Cleaning
Red coded schedules
equipment
Clean equipment,
hygienic premises
Cook Survival of Thorough 75°C on food Check and record Continue cooking
harmful bacteria cooking probe temperature/ time to 75 °C
Prepare for Multiplication of No more than Max. two hours Supervisor to Discard if >8 °C
service bacteria 20 minutes in audit at regular for two hours or
’danger zone’ intervals more
Contamination
Chill Multiplication of Blast chiller Chill to below 8°C Supervisor to Discard if out
bacteria within 90 minutes audit at regular of refrigeration
intervals for two hours or
Contamination
more
Refrigerate Multiplication of Store below 5 °C > 8°C within 90 Check and record Discard if >8 °C
bacteria minutes temperature twice for two hours or
Keep away from
a day more
Contamination raw foods
Reheat Survival of Reheat to 75 °C in 75°C (82°C in Check and record Continue
bacteria centre Scotland) temperature of reheating to 75 °C
each batch

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Safer Food Better Business The main difference in the 2006 laws was the requirement to
have an approved food safety management procedure
The HACCP system may seem complicated and difficult to
in place with up-to-date records available.
set up for a small or fairly limited business. With this in mind,
the Food Standards Agency launched their Safer Food Legislation concerning food safety covers a wide range of
Better Business system for England and Wales. topics including:
l controlling and reducing outbreaks of food poisoning
This is based on the principles of HACCP but in an easy-
l registration of premises/vehicles
to-understand format with pre-printed pages and charts
l content and labelling of food
to enter the relevant information, such as temperatures
l preventing manufacture and sale of injurious food
of individual dishes. It is divided into two parts. The first
l food imports
part is about safe methods, for example avoiding cross-
l prevention of food contamination and equipment
contamination, personal hygiene, cleaning, chilling and
contamination
cooking. The second part covers opening and closing
l training of food handlers
checks, proving methods are safe, recording safe methods,
l provision of clean water, sanitary facilities and washing
training records, supervision, stock control and the selection
facilities.
of suppliers and contractors.
For further information on food safety legislation visit:
Safer Food Better Business is available to download from
www.food.gov.uk.
www.food.gov.uk.
Similar systems have been developed in Scotland
(CookSafe) and Northern Ireland (Safe Catering).
Training
Food businesses must ensure that all staff who handle
food are supervised and instructed and/or trained in food
Due diligence hygiene appropriate to the work they do. The person
‘Due diligence’ can be used as defence under food safety responsible for the food safety management of a business
legislation when something relating to food safety goes must also be responsible for staff training.
wrong. It involves providing proof that a business took all
Appropriate training can take place in-house or with a
reasonable care and precaution, and did everything it could
training provider. Records of staff training must include the
to prevent food safety problems: that is, it exercised all due
date, level of the training and topics covered. All records of
diligence. To prove due diligence accurate and up-to-date
staff training must be kept for possible inspection.
written documents are essential. They should include:
l staff training records
l staff sickness records Environmental Health Officers
l temperature records (cooking and cold storage) Food safety standards and legislation is enforced in the UK
l pest control policy and audits by Environmental Health Officers (EHOs) and Environmental
l cleaning schedules and deep-clean reports Health Practitioners (EHPs).
l equipment maintenance records
Enforcement officers may visit food premises as a matter of
l CCP monitoring activities – changes made, corrective
routine, as a follow-up when problems have been identified
actions and recalls
or after a complaint. The frequency of visits depends on
l modifications to the HACCP system
the type of business and food being handled, possible
l customer complaints/investigation results
hazards within the business, the risk rating and any previous
l calibration of instruments, e.g. temperature probes
problems or convictions. Generally, businesses posing
l lists of suppliers (traceability of food).
a higher risk will be visited more frequently than those
considered low risk.
What the law says EHO/EHPs can enter a food business at any reasonable time
The latest laws of importance to food businesses took without previous notice or appointment, usually when the
effect from 1 January 2006. They set out the basic food business is open. The main purpose of these inspections is
safety requirements for all aspects of a food business, from to identify any possible risks from the food business and to
premises to personal hygiene of staff, with specific attention assess the effectiveness of the business’s own food safety
to actual temperatures relating to food. management systems, and also to identify any non-compliance
of regulations so this can be monitored and corrected.

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The role of the EHO/EHP is to: A Hygiene Prohibition Order prohibits a person (the
l offer professional food safety advice to food businesses owner/manager) from working in a food business.
on routine visits and provide useful information such as
Magistrates’ courts can impose fines of up to £5,000, a six-
leaflets and posters
month prison sentence or both. For serious offences, such
l advise on new food safety legislation
as knowingly selling food dangerous to health, magistrates
l investigate complaints about the business
could impose fines of up to £20,000. In a crown court
l ensure that food offered for sale is safe and fit for
unlimited fines and/or two years’ imprisonment can be
consumption
imposed.
l monitor food operations within a business and identify
possible sources of contamination
l ensure food safety law compliance The Food Standards Agency
l observe the effectiveness of the food safety The Food Standards Agency was established in 2000
management system ‘to protect public health from risks which may arise in
l deal with food-poisoning outbreaks connection with the consumption of food and otherwise
l advise on food safety training to protect the interest of customers in relation to food’. The
l deal with non-compliance by formal action/serving agency is committed to putting customers first, to being
notices. They have the power to: open and accessible, and to being an independent voice on
– close the business food-related matters.
– seize/remove food
– instigate prosecution Scores on the Doors
– seize records. Scores on the Doors is a strategy introduced by the Food
Standards Agency to raise food safety standards and
Notices and orders for non- reduce the incidence of food poisoning. When an EHO/
compliance EHP inspection has been carried out, a star rating will be
A Hygiene Improvement Notice will be served if the awarded ranging from 0 to 5 stars:
EHO/EHP believes that a food business does not comply Number of stars Rating
with regulations. The notice is served in writing and states ***** Excellent
the name and address of the business, what is wrong, why **** Very good
it is wrong, what needs to be done to put it right and the
*** Good
time in which this must be completed (usually not less than
14 days). ** Broadly compliant
* Poor
A Hygiene Emergency Prohibition Notice is served
none Very poor
if the EHO/EHP believes that there is an imminent risk to
health from the business. This would include serious issues
such as sewage contamination, lack of water supply, rodent The intention is that the given star rating will be placed in a
infestation, and so on. Serving this notice means immediate prominent position on the door or window of premises, but
closure of the business for three days, during which time it is not mandatory to do so.
the EHO/EHP must apply to magistrates for a Hygiene It is hoped that the Scores on Doors scheme will have a
Emergency Prohibition Order to keep the premises lasting, positive impact on food safety standards.
closed. Notices/orders must be displayed in a visible place
on the premises. The owner of the business must apply for
a Certificate of Satisfaction before they can reopen.

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Test yourself
1 Why should long hair be tied back and covered in the kitchen?
2. Describe how to wash your hands safely and give three examples of when
your hands must be washed when working with food.
3 There are certain illnesses that a food handler must report to their supervisor
before being involved with food. What are they?
4. When cleaning, what do each of the following do:
a detergent
b sanitiser
c disinfectant?
5 Pest control is important.
a Why must you keep pests out of food premises?
b Suggest three types of pests that could be found in food premises and
describe ways that you could keep each of them out.
6 Give four examples of foods that could cause an allergic reaction in some
people.
7 Give four examples of how you can avoid cross-contamination in a kitchen.
8 It is essential to keep food above 63 °C or below 5 °C when holding food for
service.
a Why is this important?
b What is the name given to this range of temperatures?
9 What are the temperatures you would recommend storing:
a dairy foods
b frozen fish
c fresh meat
d soft fruit
e flour?
10 All food businesses are required by law to have a food safety management
system.
a Why is it important to monitor hazards to food safety in a kitchen?
b State the key stages in the monitoring process when cooking a fresh
chicken for later reheating.

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4 Maintain, handle and clean
knives
This chapter is relevant to the following units:
➜ Maintain, handle and clean knives.

Knives are essential pieces of equipment in kitchens and


have different styles and characteristics to deal with a wide
Knives and related
range of culinary tasks. To achieve the best possible results equipment
from knives they must be well cared for, cleaned well after
The professional chef will use a range of knives in the kitchen
use and kept sharp. All chefs need to be trained in the best,
and a very wide choice is available. The most commonly
safest and most efficient ways to use a range of knives as
used knives are straight-bladed and serrated.
well as cleavers, scissors and secateurs.
The types, availability and styles of professional knives have
developed considerably in recent years. Quality knives are a
Straight-bladed knives
good investment for a chef and should be chosen carefully. l Chopping knife (cook’s knife or chef’s knife):
this will have a broad, rigid blade between 15 and 30
You will need to consider: cm long, and a ‘heel’. This is probably the chef’s most
l the tasks you are completing – for example, if you work useful knife and is used for a variety of tasks including
in a fish restaurant a good-quality filleting knife would chopping, cutting, slicing of vegetables, meat, poultry,
be a good investment fish and fruit, as well as tasks such as shredding of salads
l how the knife feels to hold – they do vary in style, and vegetables.
weight and balance l Paring knife: a small, multi-purpose knife used mainly
l ease of sharpening for topping, tailing and trimming vegetables, and
l the cost and what you are prepared to spend peeling fruits and vegetables. It may also be used on
l preferences in style and the materials used to make the smaller vegetable cuts and for garnish preparation.
knife l Filleting knife: used for filleting fish. This knife often
l how you are going to clean and store the knife safely. has a flexible blade, which allows the chef to move the
knife easily around the bone structure and between the
flesh and bone of the fish.

Point

Blade
Tip

Bolster

Handle Edge
Tang

Heel
Rivets

The parts of a knife

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l Boning knife: a short-bladed knife with a pointed end l Meat cleavers (choppers): usually used for heavy
used for boning meat. The blade is strong and rigid (not chopping tasks, such as bones in meat. The heavy flat
flexible) in order to get close to the bones, cut away the blade allows this to be done more easily.
meat and manoeuvre between bones safely. l Secateurs: similar to scissors with two long, pointed
l Palette knife: a flat knife with a blunt, rounded end blades. Some secateurs have the handles set at an
blade. It is used for lifting and turning food, scraping angle to the blades to allow for easy and efficient use.
and spreading. It probably has most use in the pastry Secateurs have a variety of uses including cutting
section but is also used in other kitchen areas. through chicken joints and trimming whole fish.
l Turning knife: a small curve-bladed knife used for l Kitchen scissors: a wide range of uses including
shaping vegetables in a variety of ways. trimming fish, snipping herbs, cutting lengths from
l Carving knife and fork: a French carving knife has filo pastry, cutting paper to line tins and moulds, and
a long, thin blade and is also known as a tranchard. opening bags and packets safely.
Long strokes with the blade enables neat and efficient
carving of meat. A carving fork is two pronged, strong
enough to support meats for carving and also for lifting
them once carved.

Serrated knives
Serrated knives are used for slicing or for foods that are
softer on the inside than the outside, such as crusty bread or
A butcher’s saw
tomatoes. A serrated knife allows you to cut neat slices, so is
good for slicing bread and pastry items. The serrated blade is
used in long strokes with a light sawing action, which does
not compress the food. It can also be used to slice foods such
as meat or terrines into neat slices. Special palette knives are
also available with a serrated edge for slicing cakes, sponges
and other pastry goods. Small serrated knives can be used
for cutting tomatoes and soft fruits, and a small, pointed A meat cleaver
serrated knife may also be a cutlery item when serving steaks.
Serrated knifes are not usually sharpened in the kitchen but Materials used for knives
are sent to a specialist company for sharpening.
The materials used for knife blades include:
l Carbon steel: easy to sharpen and get a good edge,
but can rust and stain easily.
l Stainless steel: now very popular for chefs’ knives. It is
A palette knife softer than carbon steel so will need sharpening more
frequently but is resistant to rust stains.
l High-carbon stainless steel: a higher-grade stainless
steel with a high carbon content. These knives resist
rust and staining, and maintain their sharp edge for
A turning knife longer than standard stainless steel.
l Laminated blades are made with a hard steel and a
more brittle steel sandwiched together to combine
the advantages of a tougher blade that stays sharp for
A carving fork longer.
l Ceramic is the hardest material available for knife
blades and will hold a sharp edge for the longest time.
Other cutting equipment However, the blade can chip and may break if the knife
Other tools used for cutting in the kitchen include: is dropped. It also needs specialist sharpening. Ceramic
l Butchers’ saws: commonly used in butchery to saw knives tend to be lighter than steel and usually have
through meat bones; they have serrated blades. plastic handles.

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l Folded steel knives are of Japanese origin and have


a strong and very sharp blade. The blade is made from
Holding a knife
Generally, you should grasp a knife with your fingers around
numerous layers of soft and hard steel with a central
the handle (thumb and index fingers on opposite sides) and
layer of very hard steel forming the cutting edge. The
well clear of the blade edge. The exact way that you hold
layers are heated, folded and hammered to create soft
the knife will vary depending on the size and design of the
layers that act as shock absorbers for the hard steel,
knife and the task being carried out. Grasp the knife firmly
which tends to be brittle. The techniques used are labour
to give full control. Make sure that the fingers and thumb
intensive so these knives tend to be relatively expensive.
of the hand not holding the knife are well tucked in, away
Knife handles were traditionally made from wood with from the blade edge, to avoid cutting them.
the blade ‘tang’ – the metal piece at the end of the blade
that goes into the handle – secured by rivets. Although
wooden-handled knives are still manufactured, plastics
The cutting surface
have generally replaced wooden handles. Most of the cutting and chopping you do will be on a
suitable chopping board placed on a working surface.
Knives made in one piece with a stainless steel handle Firstly make sure that the work surface is free from items
and blade have become increasingly popular. They are other than what you actually need for the task, and that it is
forged with hard molybdenum/vanadium stainless steel, thoroughly cleaned and sanitised.
which retains a good edge, and are considered to be more
hygienic because of the lack of joints. The handles are often Select the correct board for the task you are completing and
of a hollow construction, which may be filled with sand for make sure it is clean and disinfected/sanitised too. This will
weight and balance purposes. help to avoid cross-contamination from bacteria, physical
items or chemicals and allergens (see the information on

Using knives colour-coded chopping boards in the Chapter 3 Maintain


food safety, page 32). Make sure the board is firmly secured
Knives are essential tools for all chefs but they can cause before starting to cut or chop. This is important because, if
serious injury to the user or to someone else if they are the board is moves as you use it, you will lose full control of
used wrongly or carelessly. Always use the correct knife the knife and injury can result. The board can be secured
for the task you are about to complete. This will make the by placing non-slip rubber matting between the board and
work easier to complete and you are more likely to achieve surface or using damp kitchen paper/damp cloth to do the
a professional finish. Make sure the knife is undamaged, same thing.
sharpened and that the blade and handle are completely
clean and grease free; this will help to avoid accidents.
Quality knives that are looked after and treated with care
Safety with knives
will give good service and will be less likely to cause injury. l When carrying a knife in the kitchen hold it down by
the side of your body with the blade pointing down
Most chefs have their own set of knives that they will clean, and backwards.
sharpen and replace as necessary. However, where knives l Never run holding a knife and take care not to trip or
are provided for you, it is essential to look after them as slip.
required by the employer and report any damaged knives l When handing a knife to someone else, offer them the
to them immediately. handle while you hold the top (blunt edge) of the blade.
All knives can be potentially dangerous if not used properly. l Keep the sharp edge of the blade away from you when
If wrongly used, serious injury can be the result as well as cleaning or drying knives, and do not run your fingers
more minor injuries. By following a few simple rules and along the blade edge.
treating knives with respect, injuries and accidental cuts l Do not have more than one knife at a time on the
should be kept to a minimum. Use knives correctly at all chopping board. When not actually using the knife,
times and encourage others around you to do the same. place it alongside the board with the blade edge facing
inwards.
Any accidents/injuries that do occur when using knives must
l Never carry knives around on top of a chopping board;
be reported to supervisor, senior chef or the first-aid person,
they could slide off and cause injury.
then properly recorded according to the establishment’s
l Do not allow knives to overhang the edge of the work
operational procedure. This means that there is a record
surface; they could be knocked off or fall and cause
of all accidents and incidents, and when they happened,
injury. Never try to catch a falling knife – step back and
which is a legal requirement for all workplaces.
wait until it reaches the floor.
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l Never leave a knife with the blade pointing upwards.


You or someone else could put a hand down on the
blade. (Many knives are now designed so that it is
impossible for them to be placed ‘blade upwards’.)
l Keep the knife handle clean, grease free and dry. If
the handle is wet or greasy it can slip in use and could
cause cuts to the user.
l Keep knives visible – do not leave them under
vegetable peelings, packaging or a cloth.
l Store knives carefully, preferably in a box or carrying
case with compartments to keep the knives separate
and easy to find. Do not place knives loosely into a
drawer or locker because you or someone else could
grasp the blade by accident.
l Any knives that have become damaged, badly worn
Sharpening a knife with a steel
or dangerous in any way should be removed from
use immediately to avoid injury. Damaged workplace- Once a blade becomes really blunt it may need to be
owned knives must be removed from use and reported ‘reground’ by a specialist. An electric or manually operated
to a head chef or supervisor. grinding wheel is used to replace the lost ‘edge’ on the
knife blade. Arrangements can be made for mobile units
Sharpening knives to visit your premises to regrind knives or they can be sent
away to be reground.
Sharp knives are safer than blunt knives, provided that they
are handled with care. This is because a sharp blade will cut
cleanly and efficiently through the food without the need Cleaning knives
for excessive pressure. A blunt knife is less easy to control. Taking care to clean knives well will avoid cross-
It will need more pressure and force, and is likely to slip contamination and make them safer to use (greasy knife
sideways, possibly causing injury as well as badly prepared handles can cause them to slip and cause injury). Good care
food. and cleaning tends to make knives last for longer.
l Clean knives in hot water with detergent but keep hold
Knives need to be kept sharp by sharpening them frequently
of them and take care not to run fingers along the edge
with a steel, whetstone or other sharpening tool. Take time
of the blade. Remember to clean the handle too.
to learn how to do this properly and safely.
l Do not leave knives in washing-up water where they
Steels are used for sharpening knives. The metal shaft may are not visible – the blade could be grasped, resulting in
be circular or oval; diamond steels embedded with abrasive cuts to the hand.
diamond particles are considered to be the easiest and best l Rinse and dry thoroughly, and store in an appropriate
to use. Steels usually have a guard to protect the hands and safe place.
a handle similar to a knife handle. To sharpen a knife, run the l Generally it is not recommended to clean knives in a
knife at an angle (usually 45 degrees) along the steel edge. dishwasher (the blade edge can be damaged).

Food safety and knives


A knife can very easily transfer harmful bacteria from one
place to another or from one food to another, making
it a vehicle of contamination. It is also very important to
remember that an unwashed knife could cause allergen
contamination. For example, if a knife is used to chop nuts
then – without thorough cleaning – is used to slice cooked
chicken, the chicken will have traces of nuts, which could
cause a severe allergic reaction in someone with a nut
allergy.
A selection of knives, a steel and an electric sharpener

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l Always make sure that knives and the cutting surface l When knives have been used on raw meat and poultry,
(such as chopping boards) are clean and sanitised make sure the knife is cleaned and disinfected before
before use to avoid possible cross-contamination. using on other tasks. Detergents used in cleaning
l Wash and dry knives thoroughly between using on will remove the grease but disinfectants or very high
different food types to avoid cross-contamination. temperatures are needed to kill bacteria.
Some kitchens have knives with colour-coded l When cleaning knives it is important to clean both
handles (along with chopping boards and other the handle and blade well. A dirty handle could
equipment) to use on foods for allergy sufferers. The contaminate the hands.
equipment intended for use in this way is usually l When you have finished working with knives, clean
purple. This separate equipment will help to avoid and dry them thoroughly before storing them safely.
cross-contamination with allergens, which could make Bacteria will multiply on wet or dirty knives.
an allergy sufferer seriously ill, but also remember that
The knife is probably the most important utensil for a
these items need to be cleaned and disinfected.
chef in the kitchen as it is essential for virtually all food
l Do not use the same cloth to clean knives between
preparation. A good sharp knife will help get the job done
tasks when you are preparing raw, high-risk or allergen-
more effectively and with greater ease. A good sharp knife
related foods.
is certainly safer and easier to use than a knife with a blunt
blade.

Test yourself
1 List a selection of knives that you would need to work in a large kitchen using
a range of foods.
2 Describe three straight-bladed knives and say what they are used for.
3 What is the best way to clean a knife after use? Why should knives be clean
and grease free?
4 Describe the safest way to carry a knife in the kitchen. How should it be stored
after use?
5 Why is it essential to clean a knife thoroughly between use on different foods?
6 Why is a sharp knife safer to use than a blunter knife?
7 What action can be taken with knives and other equipment to prevent allergic
reactions in customers?
8 What are the main uses for scissors and secateurs in the kitchen?
9 If you were preparing, cutting and filleting a selection of fish, which knives
would you need?
10 Suggest three pieces of equipment you could use to sharpen knives.

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5 Stocks, soups and sauces
This chapter is relevant to the following units: ➜ Prepare, cook and finish basic soups.
➜ Make basic stocks. ➜ Prepare, cook and finish basic hot sauces.

Recipes included in this chapter Velouté soups


30 Pea velouté 80
No. Recipe Page
31 Pumpkin velouté 80
Stocks
Clear soups
1 White stock 55
32 Clear soup (consommé) 81
2 White vegetable stock 55
Chowders and bisques
3 Brown stock 56
33 New England clam chowder 82
4 White chicken stock 56
34 Prawn bisque 83
5 Fish stock 57 Béchamel sauces
6 Brown vegetable stock 58 35 Béchamel sauce (white sauce) 84
7 Lamb jus 58 36 Reduced-fat béchamel sauce 84
8 Reduced veal stock 59 37 Parsley sauce 85
Broths 38 Cheese sauce (mornay) 85
9 Brown onion soup 60
39 Soubise 86
10 Minestrone 62 Velouté sauces
11 Scotch broth 64 40 Suprême sauce 86
Cream soups 41 Mushroom sauce 87
12 Cream of vegetable soup 64
42 Ivory sauce 88
13 Cream of green pea soup (crème St Germain) 65
43 Aurora sauce 88
14 Cream of tomato soup (crème de tomates 66 Demi-glace sauces
fraiche)
44 Chasseur sauce 89
15 Mushroom soup (crème de champignons) 67
45 Devilled sauce (sauce diable) 90
16 Pulse soup with croutons 68
46 Robert sauce 90
17 Chicken soup (crème de volaille or crème 69
reine) 47 Piquant sauce 91
18 Asparagus soup (crème d’asperges) 70 48 Madeira sauce 92
19 Cream of spinach and celery soup 71 49 Brown onion sauce (sauce lyonnaise) 92
Purée soups 50 Italian sauce 93
20 Vegetable purée soup 72 51 Pepper sauce (sauce poivrade) 94
21 Red lentil soup 73 Gravies
22 Potato soup (purée parmentier) 74 52 Beef jus 94
23 Potato and watercress soup 75 53 Roast chicken jus 95
24 Chilled leek and potato soup (vichyssoise) 76 54 Red wine jus 96
25 Gazpacho 76 55 Roast gravy ( jus rôti) 96
26 Tomato soup 77 56 Thickened gravy ( jus-lié) 97
27 Roasted red pepper and tomato soup 78 Purée-based sauces
28 Roasted butternut squash soup 78 57 Apple sauce 98
29 Carrot and butter bean soup 79 58 Tomato sauce (sauce tomate) 98

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59 Cranberry sauce 99 64 Avocado and coriander salsa 102


Hollandaise sauces Butter sauces
60 Hollandaise sauce 99 65 Melted butter sauce (beurre fondu) 102
61 Béarnaise sauce 100 Miscellaneous sauces
Salsas 66 Horseradish sauce (sauce raifort) 103
62 Salsa verde 101 67 Sweet and sour sauce 103
63 Tomato and cucumber salsa 101 68 Gribiche sauce 104

Stocks Health and safety


Stock is the basis of all meat sauces, gravies, soups and If stocks are not given the correct care and attention,
purées. It is really just the flavour of meat extracted by long particularly with regard to the soundness of the
and gentle simmering, or the infusion/transfer of flavour ingredients used, they can easily become contaminated
from ingredients such as fish, vegetables or shellfish. In and a risk to health.
making stock, it should be remembered that the object is to
draw the goodness out of the materials and into the liquor, Browning, roasting and boiling
imparting the desired level of flavour and other elements The basic preparation of brown stock involves browning
that are important to the end product, whether it be a soup, vegetables and bones, usually in the oven. Once browned,
sauce or reduction. they are covered with water, boiled and simmered to give
Stocks are the foundation of many important kitchen a rich brown colour. White stocks are blanched but not
preparations; for this reason, the greatest possible care browned, to give a clear white stock.
should be taken in their production, and stocks, bouillons
and nages should only be made with high-quality Simmering
ingredients. A good, well-flavoured stock cannot be made Stock should always simmer gently; if it is allowed to boil
with inferior ingredients. quickly, it will evaporate and go cloudy/milky.
l A bouillon is another name for meat, fish or vegetable
stock. In some cases a bouillon can be distinguished Skimming
from stock by being meatier and by being seasoned It is important to skim off the excess fat and impurities
(whereas stock is not seasoned). with a ladle or perforated spoon to produce a clear and
l A nage is a light but well-flavoured stock, often used flavoursome stock. If fat is not skimmed off the stock will
for cooking fish and other seafood. The nage will taste greasy. Stock that is left unattended and not skimmed
enhance the flavours. will become cloudy and may have a bitter taste.

Preparing and cooking stocks


Quality points for ingredients
It is important to choose high-quality ingredients, bones,
carcass and vegetables. Do not use ingredients that are past
their best as this will affect both the colour and flavour.
l Unsound meat or bones and decaying vegetables
will give stock an unpleasant flavour and cause it to
deteriorate quickly.
l Scum should be removed, otherwise it will boil into the
stock and spoil the colour and flavour.
l Fat should be skimmed off, otherwise the stock will
taste greasy.
Another way of skimming stock is to use pieces of dish
l Salt should not be added to stock.
paper dragged across the top of the liquid.
l When making chicken stock the bones will need to be
soaked first to remove the blood that is in the cavity. All stock can be chilled down, allowing the fat to settle on
the top so that it can be easily removed.

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Straining If stocks are to be frozen they should be labelled and dated,


Stock is poured through a strainer, usually a chinois or and stored below −18 °C.
muslin, to remove all sediment. This is usually done after the When taken from storage, stocks must be boiled for at least
fat has been removed. two minutes before being used. They must not be reheated
more than once.
Ideally, stocks should be made fresh daily and discarded at
the end of the day.

Convenience stocks
Today many establishments use prepared stocks to save
time and labour, but also to reduce the food safety risks
associated with the preparation, production and storage of
stocks. These stocks are purchased as a chilled stock, frozen
or in a paste or a dry powder. Many of the fresh-chilled
products are of a very high quality.

Reducing Soups
Stock is placed over a fierce heat and is allowed to evaporate There are many ways to classify soup – a classic velouté
until the volume is reduced to give a more intense flavour. thickened with a liaison, a purée of lentils with ham hock
When cooking predominantly meat stocks, remember stock, a broth with a clear liquid, or even the crystal clarity
that they will contain collagen. This is the main fibrous of consommé. Up until 15 or 20 years ago, most soups were
component of skin, tendons, connective tissue and bones. If thickened by either purée or by roux. While hearty soups are
you have cooked at a higher heat (e.g. boiling), the collagen still with us today – for example, Scotch broth, minestrone,
content of the sauce will be high, giving you a viscous sauce bouillabaisse, chowder and many more – the foundation
earlier in the reduction process; due to the thickness of such of modern dining is a lighter approach, with a reduction in
a sauce, it is impossible to reduce it further without burning. flour and fat, offering a more sophisticated dish.

Glazes Types of soup


A glaze is a reduced stock that is used to enhance the
l Broth: a soup in which in which bones, meat, fish,
flavour of soups and sauces. To achieve a glaze, the stock
grains or vegetables have been simmered in water or
is evaporated on the stove until it is the consistency of
stock. Minestrone, an Italian vegetable-based soup, is an
treacle or a thick jelly. This thicker consistency is caused
example of a broth.
by the collagen (which is found in the bones, tendons and
l Cream: a soup finished with cream. These soups can
connective tissue) breaking down into gelatine as the stock
be made from a velouté base, such as cream of chicken
reduces. The result is a more concentrated flavour. Care
and cream of mushroom, but they can also be made
must be taken not to over reduce the stock otherwise it will
from a purée base and finished with cream, for example
become too concentrated and may result in burning. When
cream of vegetable soup and cream of green pea soup
making a glaze ensure that the base stock used at the start
(crème St Germain).
has a medium extraction of collagen. This will give a more
l Purée: a soup with a vegetable base that has been
flavoursome result and the glaze will be less ‘claggy’.
puréed in a food mill or blender; it is typically altered
after milling with the addition of broth, cream, butter,
Holding and storing stocks sour cream or coconut milk.
Once the stock has reached its desired flavour and clarity, l Velouté: a velvety French sauce made with stock and
strain and chill immediately. Stocks are susceptible to thickened with a liaison (see thickenings below).
bacterial growth due to their high protein content so l Clear (consommé): clear, unthickened soups that
special care must be taken in the handling and storage derive their intense flavour from a stock base. They are
of stocks. Chill the stock rapidly to 5 °C in a shallow tray clarified by a process of careful straining, resulting in a
(approximately 3 cm to 5 cm deep) in a blast chillier before clear soup. Consommé is a clear soup with an intense
storing in a refrigerator. flavour derived from meat bones and a good stock.

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Dashi is the Japanese equivalent of consommé and Most soup making begins by preparing a stock. The
is made from giant seaweed (kombu), dried bonito underlying flavours of the foundation ingredients are then
and water. enhanced by the herbs and seasonings added. In many
cases, this flavour base begins by preparing a mixture of
Other types of soup include:
flavouring elements, cooked in a little fat or oil. Because of
l Vichyssoise: a simple, flavourful puréed potato and
their aromatic properties and flavours, most soups begin
leek soup, thickened with the potato itself. Traditionally
this phase with a combination of onion, garlic, leeks and
this is called leek and potato soup if served hot, and a
carrots (this is called a mirepoix or aromats). The resulting
little cream or crème fraiche may be added to give it
broth is the foundation of all soups.
richness; however, when served cold it is classified as
vichyssoise – if fat is added to this preparation the dish
would leave a fatty residue on the palate and offer a Quality points for ingredients
less-than-clear mouth feel. When making soups it is important to use fresh, quality
l Bisque: a very rich soup with a creamy consistency, ingredients that have been peeled, prepared and weighed
usually made of lobster or shellfish (crab, shrimp, etc.). as part of the mise-en-place.
l Bouillabaisse: a Mediterranean fish soup/stew made If you experience any problems with ingredients it is
of multiple types of seafood, olive oil, water and important to inform the supplier. Only use fresh, good-
seasonings such as garlic, onions, tomato and parsley. quality ingredients, otherwise the overall flavour of the
l Chowder: a hearty North American soup, usually with a finished soup will be impaired.
seafood base.
l Gazpacho: a Spanish tomato and vegetable soup
Weighing and measuring
served ice cold.
It is important to weigh every ingredient to determine
l Potage: a French term referring to a thick soup.
the exact flavour and consistency, but more importantly
to determine the exact nutritional content per portion.
Preparing and cooking soups Measuring the ingredients accurately will also result in the
Though the perfection of soups can take experience, the correct yield and less wastage.
basic principles of soup making are quite simple to follow.

Table 5.1 Guide to soups, their preparation and presentation


Soup type Base Passed or unpassed Finish Example
Broth Stock Unpassed Chopped herbs Scotch broth (recipe 11)
Cut vegetables Minestrone (recipe 10)
Cream Stock and vegetables Passed Cream, milk or Cream of vegetable (recipe 12)
yoghurt
Vegetable purée and Cream of green pea (recipe 13)
béchamel velouté
Cream of tomato (recipe 14)
Purée Stock Passed Croutons Potato soup (recipe 22)
Fresh vegetables Red lentil soup (recipe 21)
Pulses
Velouté Blond roux Passed Liaison of yolk Pea velouté (recipe 30)
and cream
Vegetables
Stock
Clear Stock Strained Usually Consommé (recipe 32)
garnished
Chowder New England clam chowder (recipe 33)
Bisque Shellfish Passed Cream Prawn bisque (recipe 34)
Fish stock

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Blending/liquidising and chopping Always use strong, thick-bottomed pans to cook soup to
Soups can be prepared using stick blenders, liquidisers and avoid scalding and browning.
food processors. These produce excellent purée soups with
a smooth consistency. Passing and straining
Conical strainers are used to pass soups to obtain a fine
For soups that require small cuts of vegetables, such as
consistency. Conical strainers came in a range of sizes, from
paysanne for minestrone and gros brunoise for Scotch broth,
fine (chinois) to medium. When passing the soup through
the vegetable cutting is usually done by hand, but there
a chinois, use a ladle to carefully pump the soup through.
are also machines that cut vegetables to the required size
available in the market. (For more information on vegetable
cuts, see Chapter 12.)

Preparing a purée soup

1 Slowly simmer vegetables and 2 Purée using a stick blender, 3 To ensure a smooth consistency,
seasonings with stock to develop liquidiser or food processor. pass the soup through a conical
flavours. strainer.
4 Use a ladle to carefully pump the
soup through.

Finishing soups Accompaniments that can be served with soup include:


l brunoise, julienne or paysanne of vegetables
Soups may be served for lunch, dinner, supper and snack
l concassé
meals. Depending on their function and purpose, soups are
l fine noodles
usually served in portions of 250 ml maximum. Sometimes
l rice
a speciality soup is served as an amuse-bouche and the
l chopped herbs
portion size is reduced to approximately 50 ml.
l finely diced cooked chicken.
For food safety, serve hot soups at 63 °C or above to control
Some soups are finished with cream, crème fraiche, full-
the growth of pathogenic organisms, and discard if not
cream milk, yoghurt or evaporated milk.
sold after two hours. Cold soups should be served at 5 °C or
below. Chill the soups in a blast chillier to below 8 °C within
90 minutes to slow down bacterial growth. Healthy eating options
Soups can be served with the following garnishes: With the move towards healthier options, soup offers a
l Croutons: slices of white or brown bread cut into 1 cm very good alternative to other products. Broths and soups
dice then carefully shallow fried in vegetable oil or containing vegetables, beans and lean protein such as
clarified butter. chicken, fish or lean beef, are healthy options that are both
l Sippets: corners of bread cut from a flat-tin loaf, finely sliced light and filling. Minestrone, bouillabaisse and gazpacho are
and toasted in the oven. Both croutons and sippets may excellent choices. Cream-based soups can often be adapted
be flavoured by rubbing chopped garlic on to the bread. by using yoghurt or low-fat crème fraiche or fromage frais
l Toasted flutes (croûtes de flute): very small, thin baguette instead of cream to produce a soup that is lower in fat.
slices, toasted or sprinkled with olive oil or melted
butter and baked in the oven until crisp.

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Sauces Spice-based
Some sauces contain a number of spices used to enhance
A sauce is a liquid that has been thickened by either:
dishes and to accompany products. Examples include
l beurre manié (kneaded butter)
chilli sauce, spicy tomato sauce, curry sauce and Chinese
l egg yolks
Szechwan sauce.
l roux
l cornflour, arrowroot or starch
l cream and/or butter added to reduced stock
Purée-based
l rice (in the case of some shellfish bisques) Purée-based sauces can be fruit based (for example, apple
l reducing cooking liquor or stock. sauce or cranberry sauce), vegetable based (for example,
tomato sauce) or herb based (for example, green sauce).

Types of sauce Salsa


White (béchamel) Salsa is the Spanish word for a sauce. A wide variety of
Béchamel is a basic white sauce made using butter, flour ingredients can be used and chunky mixtures made to
and milk. Many sauces are derived from a basic béchamel serve with grilled or fried fish, meat and poultry dishes.
sauce by the addition of appropriate ingredients or Recipes 62, 63 and 64 are for salsas.
garnishes. Parsley, egg, cheese (mornay), soubise, onion,
cream, mustard and anchovy are all examples of white Butter as a sauce
sauces. l Clarified butter: clarified butter is butter that has been
melted and skimmed. After that, the fat element of the
Velouté butter is carefully poured off, leaving the milky residue
A basic velouté sauce is a blond roux, to which a white stock behind. This gives a clear fat that can reach higher
and chicken, veal, fish, etc. are added. Examples of velouté temperatures than normal butter without burning, but
sauces are caper, suprême, mushroom, ivory and aurora. which can also be used to nap over steamed vegetables
or poached or grilled fish.
Brown (espagnole) l Beurre noisette: this basically translates to ‘nut butter’
Espagnole is a traditional brown sauce made from brown and its flavour comes from the caramelisation of the
roux and brown stock, simmered for several hours and milk element in the butter solids. It is achieved by
skimmed frequently to produce a refined sauce. Because placing diced hard butter into a moderately hot pan
of the lengthy, time-consuming process and a move away and bringing it to a foam (a good indication that it is
from heavy flour-based sauces, in many kitchens a reduced ready). Like clarified butter, this can be served with
veal stock (see recipe 8) is used as a base for most brown poached or steamed vegetables and fish, but the classic
sauces. use is with shallow-fried fish. If you take the butter a
little further, however, and almost burn the sediment,
Examples of brown sauces include chasseur, devilled, then add a little vinegar, it is called black butter (beurre
bordelaise, charcutière, Robert, piquant sauce, sherry sauce, noir) and is traditionally served with skate.
Madeira, brown onion, lyonnaise, Italian and pepper sauces. l Beurre fondu: this is basically an emulsion between fat
and liquid – for example, melted butter emulsified with
Demi-glace any nage described above will give you a slightly thicker
Demi-glace is used as the base for a number of derivative sauce that can be used to coat vegetables or fish. To
sauces. Current practice in most kitchens is to use either intensify the flavour, however, if you were to add a
stock-reduced sauce, jus-lié or a commercially produced beurre noisette to the pan, or your cooking medium was
powder or granule-based product. clarified butter, you could start cooking the product in
the pan with the fat. Once it is half cooked, arrest the
Gravies cooking by adding a nage and then bring quickly to
Examples of gravies include roast gravy (jus rôti) and the boil. Through this boiling process the fat and the
thickened gravy (jus-lié). stock will become emulsified, which gives an emulsified
sauce made in the pan, but with the cooking juices also
A jus-lié is a lightly thickened brown stock – traditionally veal
added.
– which is flavour-enhanced with tomato and mushroom
trimmings and thickened with arrowroot.

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l Compound butter sauces: these are made by mixing l Brown roux: this is traditionally used for brown
the flavouring ingredients (for example, herbs) into (espagnole) sauce and soups, and is slightly browned in
softened butter, which can then be shaped into a roll the roux-making process.
2 cm in diameter, placed in wet greaseproof paper, foil
or cling film, hardened in a refrigerator and cut into Video: making a
0.5 cm slices when required. Examples include parsley blond roux and
a velouté
butter (chopped parsley and lemon juice), herb butter http://bit.ly/
(mixed herbs – chives, tarragon, fennel, dill – and lemon 1viPHtG
juice) and garlic butter (mashed to a paste). Compound
butters are served with grilled and some fried fish, and A boiling liquid should never be added to a hot roux as the
with grilled meats. result may be lumpy and the person making the sauce may
be scalded by the steam produced. If allowed to stand for a
Using alcohol in sauces time over a moderate heat, a sauce made with a roux may
Take great care when using alcohol in sauces. Alcohol become thin due to a chemical change (dextrinisation) in
must be used sparingly; it should not dominate the overall the flour.
flavour, but must blend in with the other ingredients. The Continental roux is a very easy and straightforward
alcohol must be cooked out and must not have a raw, harsh thickening agent that can be frozen and used as a quick
taste. Alcohol used correctly will enhance the flavour of the thickener during service or à la minute. Mix equal quantities
sauce and create pleasant combinations to the dishes. of flour and vegetable oil together to a paste and place in
the oven at 140 °C. Cook the mixture, mixing it in on itself
Quality points for sauces continually, until a biscuit texture is achieved. Remove and
allow to cool to room temperature. When it is cool enough
All sauces should be smooth and glossy in appearance,
to handle, form into a sausage shape using a double layer of
definite in taste and light in texture; the thickening medium
cling film. Chill, then freeze. To use, remove from the freezer
should be used in moderation.
and shave a little off the end of the log. Whisk it into the
It is important that the ingredients for preparing and boiling sauce (it is not necessary to add it slowly to prevent
cooking sauces are of the best quality, otherwise flavours lumping – this will not occur the flour is already cooked). Once
will be compromised. Wine or alcohol that is used must also the desired thickness has been achieved, pass and serve.
be of good quality otherwise the finished products will be
impaired. Beurre manié
Beurre manié is a paste made from equal quantities of soft
Thickening sauces butter and flour, which is then added to a simmering liquid
while whisking continuously to prevent lumping.
Roux
A roux is a combination of fat and flour that is cooked Egg yolks
together. There are three degrees to which a roux may be This is commonly known as a liaison and is traditionally
cooked: used to thicken a classic velouté. Both egg yolks and cream
l White roux: this is used for white (béchamel) sauce
are mixed together and added to the sauce/velouté off
and soups. Equal quantities of butter and flour are the boil; this mixture is intended to thicken, however it is
cooked together without colouring for a few minutes, essential to keep stirring it, otherwise the eggs will curdle.
to a sandy texture. Alternatively polyunsaturated Once thickening is achieved the sauce/velouté must be
vegetable margarine or vegetable oil can be used to served immediately. The liquid must not be allowed to boil
make a roux, using equal quantities of oil and flour. or simmer.
This does give a slack roux but enables the liquid to be
incorporated easily. Egg yolks are used in mayonnaise (page 577), hollandaise
l Blond roux: this is used for veloutés, tomato sauce and sauce (recipe 60) and custard sauces (page 558). Refer to
soups. Equal quantities of butter or vegetable oil and the appropriate recipe, though, as the yolks are used in a
flour are cooked for a little longer than a white roux, but different manner for each sauce. When making mayonnaise
without colouring, to a sandy texture. (where the yolks are not cooked) or hollandaise (where
temperatures remain low), it is advisable to use pasteurised
eggs for safety.

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Sabayon Other thickening agents


A sabayon is a mixture of egg yolks and a little water whisked l Vegetable or fruit purées are known as a coulis. No
to the ribbon stage over a gentle heat. The mixture should other thickening agent is used.
be the consistency of thick cream. It is added to sauces to l Blood was traditionally used in recipes such as jugged
assist their glazing. hare, but is used rarely today.
l Cooking liquor from certain dishes and/or stock can be
Cornflour, arrowroot or starch reduced to give a light sauce.
Cornflour, arrowroot or starch (such as potato starch) is
used for thickening gravy and sauces. These are diluted Finishing sauces
with water, stock or milk, then stirred into the boiling liquid,
When finishing sauces, it is important to check the
allowed to reboil for a few minutes and then strained.
seasoning and consistency of the finished product. Some
hot sauces are finished with cream or crème fraiche. Some
Sauce flour are mounted with butter to give them a good shine and
Sauce flour is a specially milled flour that does not require smooth consistency: this is known as monte au beurre.
the addition of fat to prevent it from going lumpy. Sauces
may be thickened using this flour. It is useful when making
sauces for those on a low-fat diet.

Test yourself
1 List the ingredients and describe the cooking methods for brown beef stock.
2 State four quality points you should look for in a white vegetable stock.
3 Give two examples of each of the following soups:
a purée
b cream
c clear
d broth.
5 Name two alternatives to cream when finishing a soup.
6 At what temperature should hot soup be served?
7 Describe how you would cook lobster bisque.
8 Describe how you would prepare and cook espagnole sauce.
9 Give an example of a dish with which chasseur sauce is traditionally served.
10 Describe how you should store stocks and sauces.

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Stock recipes

1 White stock

1 Chop the bones into small pieces, and remove


any fat or marrow.
2 Place the bones in a large stock pot, cover with
cold water and bring to the boil.
3 Wash off the bones under cold water, then clean
the pot.
4 Return the bones to the cleaned pot, add the
water and reboil.
5 Skim as and when required, wipe round inside the
pot and simmer gently.
6 After 2 hours, add the washed, peeled whole
vegetables, bouquet garni and peppercorns.
7 Simmer for 6–8 hours. Skim, strain and, if to be
Ingredient 4.5 litres 10 litres kept, cool quickly and refrigerate.
Raw, meaty bones 1 kg 2.5 kg
Water 5 litres 10.5 litres
Onion, carrot, celery, leek 400 g 1.5 kg
Bouquet garni ½ 1½
Peppercorns 8 16

2 White vegetable stock

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Onions 100 g 250 g
Carrots 100 g 250 g
Celery 100 g 250 g
Leeks 100 g 250 g
Water 1.5 litres 3.75 litres

1 Roughly chop all the vegetables.


2 Place all the ingredients into a saucepan, add the
water, bring to the boil.
3 Allow to simmer for approximately 1 hour.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
4 Skim if necessary. Strain and use.
105 kJ 25 kcal 0.3 g 0.1 g 4.9 g 4.0 g 1.0 g 2.4 g 0.0 g

Variation
White fungi stock: add 200–400 g white mushrooms,
stalks and trimmings (all well washed) to the recipe.

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3 Brown stock

Ingredient 4½ litres 10 litres


Raw, meaty bones 1 kg 2.5 kg
Water 5 litres 10.5 litres
Onion, carrot, celery, leek 400 g 1.5 kg
Bouquet garni ½ 1½
Peppercorns 8 16

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


4 kJ 1 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 0.2 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 0.0 g

1 Chop the beef bones and brown well on all sides


Professional tip
either by placing in a roasting tin in the oven or
A few squashed tomatoes and washed mushroom
carefully browning in a little fat in a frying pan.
trimmings can be added to brown stocks to improve
2 Drain off any fat and place the bones in a stock flavour, as can a calf’s foot and/or a knuckle of bacon.
pot. Dishes made with the stock will not be suitable for some
religious diets if bacon is used.
3 Brown any sediment that may be in the bottom
of the tray, deglaze (swill out) with half a litre of
boiling water, simmer for a few minutes and add
to the bones. Video: making
brown stock
4 Add the cold water, bring to the boil and skim. http://bit.ly/
Simmer for 2 hours. 1viP8zV
5 Wash, peel and roughly cut the vegetables, fry in
a little fat until brown, strain and add to the bones.
6 Add the bouquet garni and peppercorns.
7 Simmer for 6–8 hours. Skim and strain.

4 White chicken stock

Ingredient 3 litres
Chicken carcass/wings 5 kg
Onions, peeled 1½
Carrots, peeled 2
Cloves of garlic, crushed 2
Leeks, washed and blemishes removed 1
Celery sticks 2
Bay leaf 1
Sprigs of thyme, small 1
Whole white peppercorns 5g
Water, cold 7 litres

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1 Remove any excess fat from the chicken 4 Turn the heat off and allow the bones and
carcasses and wash off under cold water. vegetables to sink. Once this has happened, turn
2 Place all the bones into a pot that will hold all the the heat back on, skim and bring to just under a
ingredients, leaving 5 cm at the top to skim. simmer, making as little movement as possible
to create more of an infusion than a stock. Skim
3 Add all the other ingredients and cold water, and
continuously.
bring to a simmer; immediately skim all the fat that
rises to the surface. 5 Leave to simmer (infuse) for 12 hours then pass
through a fine sieve into a clean pan; reduce
down rapidly until you have about 3 litres
remaining.

5 Fish stock

Ingredient 2 litres
Fish bones, no heads, gills or roe (turbot, sole or brill 5 kg
bones are best)
Olive oil 100 ml
Onions, finely chopped 3
Leeks, finely chopped 3
Celery sticks, finely chopped 3
Fennel bulb, finely chopped 1
Dry white wine 350 ml
Parsley stalks 10
Thyme 3 sprigs
White peppercorns 15
Lemons, finely sliced 2

1 Wash off the bones in cold water for 1 hour. 4 Add the white wine and enough water to cover.
2 Heat the olive oil in a pan that will hold all the Bring to a simmer, skim off the impurities and add
ingredients and still have a 1 cm gap at the top the herbs, peppercorns and lemon. Turn off the
for skimming. Add all the vegetables and sweat heat.
without colour for 3 minutes. 5 Infuse for 25 minutes, then pass into another pan
3 Add the fish bones and sweat for a further and reduce by half. The stock is now ready for
3 minutes. use.

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6 Brown vegetable stock

Ingredient 4 litres
approximately
Onions 300 g
Carrots 300 g
Celery 300 g
Leeks 300 g
Sunflower oil 180 ml
Tomatoes 150 g
Mushroom trimmings 150 g
Peppercorns 18
Water 4 litres
Yeast extract 15 g

1 Cut the vegetables into mirepoix. Fry the mirepoix


Variation
in the oil until golden brown.
Brown fungi stock: add 200–400 g open or field
2 Drain and place in a suitable saucepan. Add all
mushrooms, stalks and trimmings (all well washed) to
the other ingredients except the yeast extract and the recipe.
water.
3 Cover with the water and bring to the boil.
4 Add the yeast extract and simmer gently for
approximately 1 hour. Then skim if necessary and
use.

7 Lamb jus

Ingredient 2 litres
Thyme bunch
Bay leaves, fresh 4
Garlic 2 bulbs
Red wine 1 litre
Lamb bones 2 kg
Veal bones 1 kg
White onions, peeled 6
Large carrots, peeled 8
Celery sticks 7
Leeks, chopped 4
Tomato purée 6 tbsp

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1 Preheat the oven to 175 °C. Place the herbs, 3 Turn the heat off and allow the bones and
garlic and wine in a large, deep container. Place vegetables to sink. Once this has happened,
all the bones on to a roasting rack on top of the turn the heat back on and bring to just under a
container of herbs and wine, and roast in the simmer, making as little movement as possible to
oven for 50–60 minutes. When the bones are create more of an infusion than a stock.
completely roasted and have taken on a dark 4 Skim continuously. Leave to infuse for 12 hours,
golden-brown appearance, remove from oven. then pass through a fine sieve, place in the
2 Place all the ingredients in a large pot and cover blast chiller until cold and then in the refrigerator
with cold water. Put the pot on to the heat and overnight. Next day, reduce down rapidly, until
bring to the simmer; immediately skim all fat that you have about 2 litres remaining.
rises to the surface.

8 Reduced veal stock

1 Brown the bones and calves’ feet in a roasting


tray in the oven.
2 Place the browned bones in a stock pot, cover
with cold water and bring to simmering point.
3 Using the same roasting tray and the fat from the
bones, brown off the carrots, onions and celery.
4 Drain off the fat, add the vegetables to the stock
and deglaze the tray.
5 Add the remainder of the ingredients; simmer
gently for 4–5 hours. Skim frequently.
6 Strain the stock into a clean pan and reduce until
a light consistency is achieved.

Ingredient 4 litres Note


Veal bones, chopped 4 kg
No flour is used in the thickening process and
Calves’ feet, split lengthways (optional) 2 consequently a lighter textured sauce is produced. Care
Water 4 litres needs to be taken when reducing this type of sauce,
however, so that the end product is not too strong or
Carrots, roughly chopped 400 g
bitter.
Onions, roughly chopped 200 g
Celery, roughly chopped 100 g
Tomatoes, blanched, skinned, quartered 1 kg
Mushrooms, chopped 200 g
Large bouquet garni 1
Unpeeled cloves of garlic (optional) 4

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Soup recipes

9 Brown onion soup 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Onions 600 g 1.5 kg
Butter or margarine 25 g 60 g
Clove of garlic, chopped (optional) 1 2–3
Flour, white or wholemeal 10 g 25 g
Brown stock 1 litre 2.5 litres
Salt and pepper
Flute (thin French stick, 2 cm in ¼ ¾
diameter)
Grated cheese 50 g 125 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


827 kJ 197 kcal 9.7 g 5.8 g 20.4 g 8.1 g 8.3 g 3.1 g

1 Peel the onions, halve and slice finely. 7 Cut the flute (French loaf) into slices and toast on
2 Melt the butter in a thick-bottomed pan, add the both sides.
onions and garlic, and cook steadily over a good 8 Sprinkle the toasted slices of bread liberally on the
heat until cooked and well browned. soup.
3 Mix in the flour and cook over a gentle heat, 9 Sprinkle with grated cheese and brown under the
browning slightly. salamander.
4 Gradually mix in the stock, bring to the boil, skim 10 Place on a dish and serve.
and season.
5 Simmer for approximately 10 minutes until the
onion is soft. Correct the seasoning.
6 Pour into an earthenware tureen or casserole, or
individual dishes.

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During cooking, the finely sliced onions first become translucent As the onions continue to cook, they begin to brown without
becoming crisp

When the onions are ready, they are well browned Cook in the flour, and finally the stock

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10 Minestrone 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Cut the peeled and washed mixed vegetables into
paysanne.
Mixed vegetables (onion, leek, celery, 300 g 750 g
carrot, turnip, cabbage), peeled 2 Cook slowly without colour in the oil or butter in
Butter or oil 50 g 125 g the pan with a lid on.
White stock or water 0.5 litres 1.25 litres 3 Add the stock, bouquet garni and seasoning;
Bouquet garni 1 2 simmer for approximately 20 minutes.
Salt, pepper 4 Add the peas and the beans cut into diamonds
Peas 25 g 60 g
and simmer for 10 minutes.

French beans 25 g 60 g
5 Add the spaghetti in 2 cm lengths, the potatoes
cut into paysanne, the tomato purée and
Spaghetti 25 g 60 g
the tomatoes, and simmer gently until all the
Potatoes, peeled 50 g 125 g vegetables are cooked.
Tomato purée 1 tsp 2½ tsp
6 Meanwhile finely chop the fat bacon, parsley and
Tomatoes, skinned, deseeded, diced 100 g 250 g garlic, if using, and form into a paste.
Fat bacon (optional) 50g 125g 7 Mould the paste into pellets the size of a pea and
Parsley (optional) 50 g 125 g drop into the boiling soup.
Clove of garlic (optional) 1 2½ 8 Remove the bouquet garni, correct the seasoning.
9 Serve grated Parmesan cheese and croutons of
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,115 kJ 260 kcal 22.9 g 5.8 g 11.9 g 4.2 g 3.8 g 4.1 g
bread or slices of French bread (flutes) separately.
Using sunflower oil.
Healthy eating tips
l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or vegetable) to
lightly oil the pan. Drain off any excess after the frying
is complete and skim the fat from the finished dish.
l Season with the minimum amount of salt as the
bacon and cheese are high in salt.

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Vegetables chopped into paysanne Fry or sweat the vegetables

Simmer the ingredients in the stock Add the pellets of paste to the soup

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11 Scotch broth

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Lean beef (skirt) 200 g 500 g
Beef stock 1 litre 2.5 litres
Barley 25 g 60 g
Vegetables (carrot, turnip, leek, 200 g 500 g
celery, onion), cut into paysanne
Bouquet garni 1 2
Salt, pepper
Chopped parsley

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
655 kJ 157 kcal 7.8 g 3.1 g 4.9 g 2.7 g 16.6 g 1.6 g 0.2 g

1 Place the beef, free from fat, in a saucepan and 7 Remove the meat, allow to cool and cut from the
cover with cold water. bone, remove all fat and cut the meat into neat
2 Bring to the boil, then immediately wash off under dice the same size as the vegetables; return to
running water. the broth.
3 Clean the pan, replace the meat, cover with cold 8 Correct the seasoning, skim off all the fat, add the
stock, bring to the boil and skim. chopped parsley and serve.
4 Add the washed barley, simmer for 1 hour.
Healthy eating tips
5 Add the vegetables, bouquet garni and l Remove all fat from the meat.
seasoning. l Use only a small amount of salt.
l There are lots of healthy vegetables in this dish and
6 Skim when necessary; simmer for approximately
the addition of a large bread roll will increase the
30 minutes, until tender. starchy carbohydrate.

12 Cream of vegetable soup

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Onions, leeks and celery, sliced 100 g 250 g
Other suitable vegetables*, sliced 200 g 500 g
Butter or oil 50 g 125 g
Flour 50 g 125 g
White stock or water 0.5 litres 1.5 litres
Thin béchamel 0.5 litres 1 litre
Bouquet garni 1 2
Salt and pepper
*Suitable vegetables include Jerusalem artichokes, cauliflower,
celery, leeks, onions, parsnips, turnips and fennel.
Analysis based on using butter, cauliflower, turnip and parsnip.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium 50% stock, 50% semi-skimmed milk used in place of béchamel.
862 kJ 206 kcal 12.1 g 7.3 g 20.0 g 8.7 g 5.3 g 3.4 g 0.9 g

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1 Gently cook all the sliced vegetables in the fat 6 Remove the bouquet garni; liquidise, blend or
under a lid, without colour. pass firmly through a sieve and then through a
2 Mix in the flour and cook slowly for a few minutes medium strainer.
without colour. Cool slightly. 7 Return to a clean pan, reheat and correct the
3 Gradually mix in the hot stock. Stir and bring to seasoning and consistency.
the boil.
Variation
4 Add the bouquet garni and season. l Instead of using the béchamel, use an additional
5 Simmer for approximately 45 minutes; skim when 250 ml of stock and then finish the soup with
necessary. 250 ml milk.
l Alternatively, do this with an additional 375 ml of stock
and finish with 125 ml of cream.

13 Cream of green pea soup (crème St Germain)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Onion, chopped 25 g 60 g
Leek, chopped 25 g 60 g
Celery, chopped 25 g 60 g
Butter or oil 25 g 60 g
Water or white stock 500 ml 1.25 litres
Peas, fresh (shelled) or frozen 250 ml 625 ml
Sprig of mint
Bouquet garni 1 2
Thin béchamel 500 ml 1.25 litres

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Cream, natural yoghurt or fromage 60 ml 150 ml
1,356 kJ 323 kcal 23.6 g 12.8 g 19.6 g 8.0 g 9.3 g 8.3 g frais

1 Sweat the onion, leek and celery in the butter or


Healthy eating tips
oil. l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or vegetable).
2 Moisten with water or stock and bring to the boil. Lightly oil the pan and drain off any excess after the
frying is complete.
3 Add the peas, mint and bouquet garni, and allow
l Season with the minimum amount of salt.
to boil for approximately 5 minutes.
4 Remove the bouquet garni, add the béchamel
and bring to the boil. Variation
5 Remove from the heat and liquidise or pass Variations can be made with the addition of:
l a garnish of 25 g cooked and washed tapioca, added
through a sieve. Skim off any fat.
at the same time as the cream
6 Correct the seasoning and pass through medium l a garnish of 25 g cooked and washed vermicelli and
strainer. julienne of sorrel cooked in butter
l natural yoghurt, skimmed milk or non-dairy cream
7 Finish with cream, natural yoghurt or fromage
may be used in place of cream.
frais.
See also the variations listed under pulse soup (recipe 16).

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14 Cream of tomato soup 


(crème de tomates fraiche)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Butter or oil 50 g 125 g
Bacon trimmings, optional 25 g 60 g
Onion, diced 100 g 250 g
Carrot, diced 100 g 250 g
Flour 50 g 125 g
Tomatoes, fresh, fully ripe 1 kg 2.5 kg
Stock 1 litre 2.5 litres
Bouquet garni 1 2
Salt, pepper
Croutons – sliced stale bread 1 3
Butter 50 g 125 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1159 kJ 277 kcal 16.2 g 4.8 g 28.5 g 13.6 g 6.3 g 6.6 g 0.3 g

1 Melt the butter or heat the oil in a thick-bottomed


Professional tip
pan.
l Flour may be omitted from the recipe if a thinner
2 Add the bacon, onion and carrot (mirepoix) and soup is required.
brown lightly. l A slightly sweet/sharp flavour can be added to
3 Mix in the flour and cook to a sandy texture. the soup by preparing what is known as a gastric
(gastrique). In a thick-bottomed pan, reduce 100 ml
4 Gradually add the hot stock. of malt vinegar and 35 g caster sugar until it is a light
5 Stir to the boil. caramel colour. Mix this into the completed soup.
l Some tomato purée can be stronger than others,
6 Remove the eyes from the tomatoes, wash them so you may have to add a little more or less when
well, and squeeze them into the soup after it has making this soup.
come to the boil.
7 If colour is lacking, add a little tomato purée soon
after the soup comes to the boil. Healthy eating tips
l Use soft margarine or sunflower/vegetable oil in place
8 Add the bouquet garni and season lightly. of the butter.
9 Simmer for approximately 1 hour. Skim when l Toast the croutons rather than frying them.
required. l Use the minimum amount of salt – there is plenty in
the bacon.
10 Remove the bouquet garni and mirepoix.
11 Liquidise or pass firmly through a sieve, then
through a conical strainer. Variation
12 Return to a clean pan, correct the seasoning and Without fresh tomatoes: substitute 150 g of tomato purée
for the fresh tomatoes (375 g for 10 portions). When
consistency. Bring to the boil.
reboiling the soup (step 12), add 500 ml of milk or 125 ml
13 Serve fried or toasted croutons separately. of cream, yoghurt or fromage frais.
Try adding the juice and lightly grated peel of 1–2
oranges, cooked rice or a chopped fresh herb, such as
chives.

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15 Mushroom soup (crème de champignons)

1 Gently cook the sliced onions, leek and celery in


the butter or oil in a thick-bottomed pan, without
colouring.
2 Mix in the flour and cook over a gentle heat to a
sandy texture without colouring.
3 Remove from the heat and cool slightly.
4 Gradually mix in the hot stock. Stir to the boil.
5 Add the well-washed, chopped mushrooms, the
bouquet garni and season.
6 Simmer for 30–45 minutes. Skim when needed.
7 Remove the bouquet garni. Pass through a sieve
or liquidise.
8 Pass through a medium strainer. Return to a clean
saucepan.
9 Reboil, correct the seasoning and consistency;
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions add the milk or cream.
Onion, leek and celery, sliced 100 g 250 g
Variation
Butter or oil 50 g 125 g
Natural yoghurt, skimmed milk or non-dairy cream may
Flour 50 g 125 g
be used in place of dairy cream.
White stock (preferably chicken) 1 litre 2.5 litres
A garnish of thinly sliced mushrooms may be added.
White mushrooms, washed and 200 g 500 g Wild mushrooms may also be used.
chopped
Bouquet garni 1 2
Salt, pepper Healthy eating tips
l Use soft margarine or sunflower/vegetable oil in place
Milk (or cream) 125 ml 300 ml of the butter.
(or 60 ml) (or 150 ml)
l Use the minimum amount of salt.
l The least fatty option is to use a combination of semi-
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre skimmed milk and yoghurt or fromage frais – not
712 kJ 170 kcal 11.8 g 5.2 g 12.6 g 3.0 g 3.8 g 1.6 g
cream.
Using hard margarine.

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16 Pulse soup with croutons

1 Pick and wash the pulses (if pre-soaked, change


the water).
2 Place in a thick-bottomed pan; add the stock or
water and bring to the boil and skim.
3 Add the remaining ingredients and season lightly.
4 Simmer until tender; skim when necessary.
5 Remove the bouquet garni and ham knuckle (if
using).
6 Liquidise and pass through a conical strainer.
7 Return to a clean pan and reboil; correct the
seasoning and consistency.
8 Serve accompanied by 0.5 cm-diced bread
croutons shallow-fried in butter or olive oil.

Note
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Pulses are the dried seeds of plants that form pods. Any
Pulses (soaked overnight if 200 g 500 g type of pulse can be made into soup, for example split
necessary) green and yellow peas, haricot beans and lentils.
White stock or water 1.5 litres 3.75 litres
Onions, chopped 50 g 125 g Healthy eating tips
Carrots, chopped 50 g 125 g l The fat and salt are reduced if the ham is omitted.
l Try lightly brushing the stale bread with olive oil and
Bouquet garni 1 2
oven-baking it with garlic and herbs. Alternatively,
Knuckle of ham or bacon (optional) 50 g 125 g serve with sippets.
Salt and pepper
Croutons
Variation
Stale bread 1 slice 2½ slices
Variations can be made with the addition of:
Butter or olive oil 50 g 125 g
l chopped fresh herbs (parsley, chervil, tarragon,
coriander, chives, etc.)
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l spices (e.g. garam masala)
728 kJ 177 kcal 1.3 g 0.2 g 32.0 g 3.3 g 11.3 g 3.6 g l crisp lardons of bacon
One portion (no croutons); one portion (with croutons) l sippets (small, thin pieces of bread, toasted or oven-
provides: 1,223 kJ/291 kcal energy; 111.7 g fat; 6.8 g saturated baked).
fat; 36.5 g carbohydrates; 3.6 g sugar; 12.1 g protein; 3.8 g fibre.

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17 Chicken soup (crème de volaille 


or crème reine)

1 Gently cook the sliced onions, leek and celery in


a thick-bottomed pan, in the butter or oil, without
colouring.
2 Mix in the flour; cook over a gentle heat to a
sandy texture without colouring.
3 Cool slightly; gradually mix in the hot stock. Stir to
the boil.
4 Add the bouquet garni and season.
5 Simmer for 30–45 minutes; skim when
necessary. Remove the bouquet garni.
6 Liquidise or pass firmly through a fine strainer.
7 Return to a clean pan, reboil and finish with milk
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
or cream; correct the seasoning.
Onion, leek and celery, sliced 100 g 250 g
8 Add the chicken garnish and serve.
Butter or oil 50 g 125 g
Flour 50 g 125 g Variation
Chicken stock 1 litre 2.5 litres Natural yoghurt, skimmed milk or non-dairy cream may
Bouquet garni 1 2 be used in place of dairy cream.

Salt, pepper Add cooked small pasta or sliced mushrooms.


Milk or cream 250 ml or 125 ml 625 ml or 300 ml
Cooked dice of chicken (garnish) 25 g 60 g Healthy eating tips
l Use soft margarine or sunflower/vegetable oil in place
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium of the butter.
900 kJ 217 kcal 16.7 g 10.4 g 12.6 g 2.6 g 4.8 g 1.6 g 0.1 g l Use the minimum amount of salt.
Using butter and cream. l The least fatty option is to use a combination of semi-
skimmed milk and yoghurt or fromage frais – not
cream.

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18 Asparagus soup (crème d’asperges)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Gently sweat the onions and celery, without
colouring, in the butter or oil.
Onion, sliced 50 g 125 g
2 Remove from the heat, mix in the flour, return to
Celery, sliced 50 g 125 g
a low heat and cook out, without colouring, for a
Butter or oil 50 g 125 g
few minutes. Cool.
Flour 50 g 125 g
3 Gradually add the hot stock. Stir to the boil.
White stock (preferably chicken) 1 litre 2.5 litres
4 Add the well-washed asparagus trimmings, or the
Asparagus stalk trimmings 200 g 500 g tin of asparagus, and bouquet garni. Season.
or
5 Simmer for 30–40 minutes, then remove bouquet
Tin of asparagus 150 g 325 g garni.
Bouquet garni 1 2 6 Liquidise and pass through a strainer.
Salt, pepper
7 Return to a clean pan, reboil, correct seasoning
Milk or cream 250 ml or 625 ml or and consistency. (Milk with a little cornflour can
125 ml 300 ml
be added to adjust the consistency.)
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
8 Add the milk or cream and serve.
919 kJ 223 kcal 13.1 g 8.0 g 18.9 g 8.8 g 8.4 g 2.5 g

Using butter. Healthy eating tips


l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower/vegetable) to lightly
oil the pan. Drain off any excess after the frying is
complete and skim the fat from the finished dish.
l Season with the minimum amount of salt.

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19 Cream of spinach and celery soup

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Cook the shallots, leeks and garlic in the oil for a
few minutes, without colour.
Shallots, peeled and chopped 2 5
(small mirepoix) 2 Add the celery and cook for another few minutes
Leeks, washed and chopped 1 2½ until starting to soften.
(small mirepoix)
3 Add the flour and mix well, then throw in the
Cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped 2 5 spinach and mix around. Add the milk and
Corn oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp vegetable stock slowly, ensuring there are no
Celery sticks, washed and chopped 4 10 lumps.
(small mirepoix)
4 Stir continuously, bring to a simmer, then switch
Flour 15 g 35 g off and remove from heat. Cover and leave for a
Fresh spinach, well washed 500 g 1.25 kg few minutes.
Milk 600 ml 1.5 litres 5 Blend until smooth in a food processor. Check
Vegetable stock 600 ml 1.5 litres seasoning and serve.
Salt, to taste

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
886 kJ 214 kcal 12.7 g 4.7 g 15.1 g 11.3 g 10.1 g 6.1 g 0.3 g

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20 Vegetable purée soup

1 Gently cook all the sliced vegetables in the fat


under a lid, without colour.
2 Mix in the flour and cook slowly for a few minutes
without colour. Cool slightly.
3 Gradually mix in the hot stock. Stir to the boil.
4 Add the bouquet garni and season.
5 Simmer for approximately 45 minutes; skim when
necessary.
6 Remove the bouquet garni; liquidise or pass
firmly through a sieve and then through a medium
strainer.
7 Return to a clean pan, reboil, and correct the
seasoning and consistency.

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Variation


Onions, leek and celery, sliced 100 g 250 g Add a little spice, sufficient to give a subtle background
Other suitable vegetables, sliced 200 g 500 g flavour, e.g. garam masala with parsnip soup.
Butter or oil 50 g 125 g Just before serving add a little freshly chopped herb(s),
Flour 50 g 125 g e.g. parsley, chervil, tarragon, coriander.

White stock or water 1 litre 2.5 litres


Bouquet garni 1 2 Healthy eating tips
l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or vegetable) to
Salt, pepper
lightly oil the pan. Drain off any excess after the frying
Suitable vegetables include Jerusalem artichokes, cauliflower, is complete and skim the fat from the finished dish.
celery, leeks, onions, parsnips, turnips and fennel. l Season with the minimum amount of salt.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
l Try using more vegetables to thicken the soup in
601 kJ 143 kcal 10.3 g 4.4 g 11.4 g 1.8 g 1.9 g 1.9 g place of the flour.
Using hard margarine.

Video: making a
purée soup
http://bit.ly/
17qT0U8

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21 Red lentil soup

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Place the ham hock, onion and carrot in a pan
and cover with about 3 litres of water.
Ham hock 320 g 800 g
2 Bring to the boil and then turn down to a slow
Onion, peeled 25 g 60 g
simmer. (When the hock is cooked, the centre
Whole carrot, peeled ½ 1¼
bone will slide out in one smooth motion.)
Baby shallots 1 2½
3 Slice the shallots, leek and celery into 1 cm dice.
Leeks 50 g 125 g
4 Heat a pan with the oil, add the vegetables and
Celery 50 g 125 g cook until they are slightly coloured; add the
Oil 40 ml 100 ml lentils and cover them with the ham stock.
Red lentils 200 g 500 g 5 Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down to a
Cooking liquid from the hock 1 litre 2.5 litres very slow simmer.
Milk, cream or crème fraiche 120 ml 300 ml 6 Cook until all the lentils have broken down.
7 Allow to cool for 10 minutes and then purée until
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
smooth.
1,807 kJ 432 kcal 71.4 g 43.9 g 6.7 g 1.5 g 5.3 g 1.5 g
8 Correct the consistency as necessary, and finish
with boiled milk, cream or crème fraiche.

Variation
Meat-free version: omit the ham hock and use a
vegetable stock or water instead of the cooking liquid.

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22 Potato soup (purée parmentier)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Melt the butter or heat the oil in a thick-bottomed
pan.
Butter or oil 25 g 60 g
2 Add the onion and leek; cook for a few minutes
Onion, peeled and sliced 50 g 125 g
without colour with the lid on.
White of leek, washed and sliced 50 g 125 g
3 Add the stock or water, the potatoes and the
White stock or water 1 litre 2.5 litres
bouquet garni. Season.
Potatoes, peeled and sliced 400 g 1.25 kg
4 Simmer for approximately 30 minutes. Remove
Bouquet garni 1 2 the bouquet garni and skim off all fat.
Salt and pepper
5 Liquidise or pass the soup firmly through a sieve
Parsley, chopped then pass it through a medium conical strainer.
Croutons 6 Return to a clean pan and reboil. Correct the
Stale bread 1 slice 2½ slices seasoning and consistency.
Butter, margarine or oil 50 g 125 g 7 Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.
8 Serve fried or toasted croutons separately.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,063 kJ 253 kcal 15.7 g 9.8 g 26.1 g 2.1 g 3.6 g 2.9 g
Healthy eating tips
l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or vegetable).
Lightly oil the pan and drain off any excess after the
frying is complete.
l Season with the minimum amount of salt.
l Toast the croutons instead of frying them.

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23 Potato and watercress soup 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Pick off 12 neat leaves of watercress and plunge
into a small pan of boiling water for 1–2 seconds.
Butter or oil 25 g 60 g
Refresh under cold water immediately; these
Onion, peeled and sliced 50 g 125 g
leaves are to garnish the finished soup.
White of leek, sliced 50 g 125 g
2 Melt the butter or heat the oil in a thick-bottomed
White stock or water 1 litre 2.5 litres pan.
Potatoes, peeled and sliced 400 g 1 kg 3 Add the peeled and washed sliced onion and
Watercress small bunch small bunch leek, cook for a few minutes without colour with
Bouquet garni the lid on.
Salt, pepper 4 Add the stock, the peeled, washed and sliced
Parsley, chopped potatoes, the rest of the watercress, including the
Croutons stalks, and the bouquet garni. Season.
Stale bread 1 slice 2½ slices 5 Simmer for approximately 30 minutes. Remove
the bouquet garni, skim off all fat.
Butter, margarine or oil 50 g 125 g
6 Liquidise or pass the soup firmly through a sieve
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium then pass through a medium conical strainer.
583 kJ 139 kcal 5.5 g 3.3 g 21.0 g 3.8 g 2.7 g 3.4 g 0.1 g
7 Return to a clean pan, reboil, correct the
Using butter.
seasoning and consistency, and serve.
8 Garnish with watercress.
9 Serve fried or toasted croutons separately.

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24 Chilled leek and potato soup (vichyssoise) 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Onions, finely sliced 160 g 400 g
Leeks, finely sliced 175 g 430 g
Butter 125 g 300 g
Potatoes, diced small 750 g 1.8 kg
Water/vegetable stock 1.8 litres 4.5 litres
Salt 15 g 30 g
Pepper to taste
Garnish
Whipped cream
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,653 kJ 397 kcal 26.4 g 16.3 g 36.9 g 4.5 g 5.3 g 4.0 g Chives, chopped

1 Sweat the sliced onion and leek without colour in 4 Check seasoning. Note that seasoning needs to
the butter. Cook until very tender. reflect the serving temperature.
2 Add the potatoes and bring quickly to the boil 5 Serve cold with whipped cream and chopped
with the water or vegetable stock. chives.
3 Liquidise in food processor and allow to cool.

25 Gazpacho

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Tomato juice 500 ml 1.25 litres
Tomatoes, skinned, deseeded and 100 g 250 g
diced
Cucumber, peeled and diced 100 g 250 g
Green pepper, diced 50 g 125 g
Onion, chopped 50 g 125 g
Mayonnaise 1 tbsp 2–3 tbsp
Vinegar 1 tbsp 2–3 tbsp
Seasoning
Clove of garlic 1 2–3

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
861 kJ 203 kcal 2.7 g 0.8 g 40.5 g 38.7 g 6.7 g 12.5 g 3.2 g

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This soup has many regional variations. It is served


Variation
chilled and has a predominant flavour of cucumber,
tomato and garlic. Instead of serving with all the ingredients finely chopped,
the soup can be liquidised and garnished with chopped
1 Mix all the ingredients together. tomato, cucumber and pepper.
2 Season and add crushed chopped garlic to taste. The soup may also be finished with chopped herbs.
3 Stand in a cool place for an hour. A tray of garnishes may accompany the soup, e.g.
4 Correct the consistency with iced water and serve chopped red and green pepper, chopped onion, tomato,
chilled. cucumber and croutons.

26 Tomato soup 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Butter or oil 50 g 125 g
Bacon trimmings, optional 25 g 60 g
Onion, diced 100 g 250 g
Carrot, diced 100 g 250 g
Flour 50 g 125 g
Tomato purée 150 g 375 g
Stock 1.25 litres 3.5 litres
Bouquet garni 1 2
Salt, pepper
Croutons
Slice stale bread 1 3
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,150 kJ 274 kcal 21.3 g 11.2 g 17.1 g 3.7 g 4.6 g 1.0 g Butter 50 g 125 g
Using hard margarine.

1 Melt the butter or heat the oil in a thick-bottomed


Professional tip
pan.
If a slightly sweet/sour flavour is required, reduce 100 ml
2 Add the bacon, onion and carrot (mirepoix) and vinegar and 35 g caster sugar to a light caramel and mix
brown lightly. into the completed soup.
3 Mix in the flour and cook to a sandy texture.
4 Remove from the heat, mix in the tomato purée.
Healthy eating tips
5 Return to heat and gradually add the hot stock. l Use soft margarine or sunflower/vegetable oil in place
6 Stir to the boil. Add the bouquet garni, season of the butter.
l Toast the croutons rather than frying them.
lightly.
l Use the minimum amount of salt – there is plenty in
7 Simmer for approximately 1 hour. Skim when the bacon.
required.
8 Remove the bouquet garni and mirepoix.
Variation
9 Liquidise or pass firmly through a sieve, then
Variations can be made with the addition of:
through a conical strainer. l juice and lightly grated zest of 1–2 oranges
10 Return to a clean pan, correct the seasoning and l tomato concassé
consistency. Bring to the boil. l cooked rice
l chopped fresh coriander, basil or chives
11 Serve fried or toasted croutons separately. l 200 g peeled, sliced potatoes with the stock.

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27 Roasted red pepper and tomato soup 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Red peppers 4 10
Plum tomatoes 400 g 1.25 kg
Butter or oil 50 g 125 g
Onion, chopped 100 g 250 g
Carrot, chopped 100 g 250 g
Stock 500 ml 1.5 litres
Crème fraiche 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Basil 25 g 75 g
Croutons
Slice stale bread 1 3
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
983 kJ 235 kcal 16.8 g 7.1 g 18.3 g 16.4 g 3.6 g 4.5 g Butter 50 g 125 g

1 Core and deseed the peppers and halve the 5 Place the butter or oil in a pan, add the onions
tomatoes. and carrots and fry gently for 5 minutes.
2 Lightly sprinkle with oil and place on a tray into a 6 Add the stock, peppers and tomatoes and bring
hot oven or under a grill until the pepper skins are to the boil.
blackened. 7 Simmer for 30 minutes, correct the seasoning
3 Allow the peppers to cool in a plastic bag. and blend in a food processor until smooth.
4 Remove the skins and slice the flesh. 8 Add crème fraiche and basil leaves torn into
pieces, and serve with croutons.

28 Roasted butternut squash soup 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Butternut squash, peeled and 600 g 2 kg
de-seeded
Onion 100 g 250 g
Olive oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Garlic (optional), finely chopped 1 clove 2 cloves
Bacon (back rashers), in small 4 10
pieces
Chicken or vegetable stock 625 ml 1.5 litres
Salt and pepper
Cream or thick natural yoghurt 6 tbsp 15 tbsp

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


923 kJ 220 kcal 12.0 g 3.5 g 19.6 g 13.1 g 9.9 g 2.8 g

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1 Cut the squash into thick pieces, place on a lightly


Variation
oiled baking sheet and roast for 20–25 minutes
in a hot oven until the flesh is soft and golden Add three to four saffron strands soaked in one
tablespoon hot water at step 4.
brown.
2 Sweat the onions and garlic in the olive oil without
colouring, for approximately 5 minutes. Healthy eating tips
l Use unsaturated oil (sunflower or olive); lightly oil
3 Add the bacon and lightly brown.
the pan to sweat the garlic and onions. Drain off any
4 Add the roasted squash, pour in the stock, and excess fat after cooking the bacon.
bring to boil. Simmer for 20 minutes. l Use low-fat yoghurt to reduce the fat content. Add a
little cornflour to stabilise the yoghurt before adding to
5 Allow to cool before liquidising or blending until the soup.
smooth.
6 Season lightly, add yoghurt or cream, then reheat
gently and serve.

29 Carrot and butter bean soup 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Onions, peeled and chopped 1 2½
Cloves of garlic, chopped 2 5
Sunflower oil 15 ml 35 ml
Carrots, large to medium, brunoise 250 g 750 g
Vegetable stock 500 ml 1.25 litres
Butter beans, cooked 400 g 1 kg
Seasoning

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
638 kJ 152 kcal 4.6 g 0.6 g 21.9 g 8.5 g 7.0 g 9.4 g 0.5 g

1 Cook the onion and garlic in the oil for a


Professional tip
few minutes, without colour, then add the carrots
With any soup recipe, it is important to simmer the soup
and stir well.
gently. Do not let it boil vigorously, because too much
2 Add the vegetable stock. Bring to the boil, turn water will evaporate. If the soup has boiled, add more
down to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes stock or water to make up for this.
until the carrot is cooked through.
3 Add the beans and cook for a further 5 minutes
or so until they are heated through.
4 Liquidise in a food processor until smooth; check
seasoning.

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30 Pea velouté

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Frozen peas 400 g 1 kg
Vegetable oil 10 ml 25 ml
Shallots, chopped 1 2
Milk 200 ml 500 ml
Double cream 40 ml 100 ml
Butter or margarine 40 g 100 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
984 kJ 237 kcal 17.8 g 9.6 g 12.2 g 5.5 g 7.7 g 6.9 g 0.1 g

1 Blanch the peas in a small pan of boiling water for 5 Cool the mixture slightly, then transfer to a food
3 minutes, then drain. processor and liquidise until very smooth – this
2 Heat the oil in a large saucepan and cook the may take a while. At this point, the soup can
shallots without letting them colour. be cooled completely and stored in an airtight
container in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
3 Add the peas to this pan, and cook for a further
2–3 minutes, again without colouring. 6 Add the cream and butter just before serving.
4 Add the milk, bring to a simmer and cook until the
peas are tender.

31 Pumpkin velouté

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Shallots, sliced 1 2½
Butter 320 g 800 g
Clove of garlic, sliced (optional) ½ 1¼
Large squash or pumpkin (300 g), 1 2½
flesh diced
Parmesan, grated 30 g 75 g
Truffle oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Salt, pepper
Chicken stock 400–600 ml 1–1.5 litres

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,883 kJ 689 kcal 71.4 g 43.9 g 6.7 g 1.5 g 5.3 g 1.5 g 3.0 g

Using acorn squash and olive oil.

1 Sweat the shallots in the butter, without colour, 3 Add the chicken stock, bring to the boil, simmer
until cooked and soft. for 5 minutes.
2 Add the garlic, pumpkin, Parmesan and truffle oil. 4 Liquidise, pass, correct the seasoning and serve
Correct the seasoning and cook for 5 minutes. hot. Blast chill if to be stored.

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32 Clear soup (consommé)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Chopped or minced beef 200 g 500 g
Salt, to taste
Egg whites 1–2 3–5
White or brown beef stock, cold 1 litre 2.5 litres
Mixed vegetables (onion, carrot, 100 g 250 g
celery, leek)
Bouquet garni 1 2
Peppercorns 3–4 8–10

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


126 kJ 30 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 1.8 g 0.0 g 5.6 g 0.0 g

1 Thoroughly mix the beef, salt, egg 4 Place over a gentle heat and 9 Remove all fat, using both sides
white and a quarter of the cold bring slowly to the boil, stirring of 8 cm square pieces of kitchen
stock in a thick-bottomed pan. occasionally. paper.
2 Peel, wash and finely chop the 5 Allow to boil rapidly for 5–10 10 Correct the seasoning and colour,
vegetables. seconds. Give a final stir. which should be a delicate amber.
3 Add to the beef with the remainder 6 Lower the heat so that the 11 Degrease again, if necessary.
of the stock, the bouquet garni consommé is simmering very Bring to the boil and serve.
and the peppercorns. gently.
7 Cook for 1½–2 hours without
stirring.
8 Strain carefully through a double
muslin.

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Professional tip Healthy eating tips


l This soup is fat free!
A consommé should be crystal clear. The clarification l Keep the salt to a minimum and serve as a low-
process is caused by the albumen of the egg white calorie starter for anyone wishing to reduce the fat in
and meat coagulating, rising to the top of the liquid their diet.
and carrying other solid ingredients. The remaining
liquid beneath the coagulated surface should be gently
simmering. Cloudiness is due to some or all of the Variation
following:
l poor quality stock Consommés are varied in many ways by altering the
l greasy stock flavour of the stock (chicken, chicken and beef, game,
l unstrained stock etc.), also by the addition of numerous garnishes
l imperfect coagulation of the clearing agent (julienne or brunoise of vegetables, shredded savoury
l whisking after boiling point is reached, whereby the pancakes or pea-sized profiteroles) added at the last
impurities mix with the liquid moment before serving, or small pasta.
l not allowing the soup to settle before straining Cold, lightly jellied consommés, served in cups, with or
l lack of cleanliness of the pan or cloth without garnish (diced tomato), may be served in hot
l any trace of grease or starch. weather.

33 New England clam chowder

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Salt pork or bacon, cut into 0.5 cm 50 g 125 g
dice
Onion, finely chopped 50 g 125 g
Cold water 300 ml 750 ml
Potatoes, cut into 0.5 cm dice 500 g 1.25 kg
Fresh trimmed clams, or tinned 200 g 500 g
clams, and their juices
Cream 180 ml 450 ml
Thyme, crushed or chopped 1g 2g
Salt, white pepper
Butter, softened 20 g 50 g
Paprika

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,109 kJ 269 kcal 14.9 g 7.7 g 24.5 g 2.5 g 14.9 g 1.8 g

Using bacon or salt pork.

1 Dry-fry the pork or bacon in a thick-bottomed 4 Add the chopped clams and their juice, the cream
saucepan for about 3 minutes, stirring constantly and thyme, and heat until almost boiling. Season
until a thin film of fat covers the bottom of the pan. with salt and pepper.
2 Stir in the chopped onion and cook gently until a 5 Correct the seasoning, stir in the softened butter
light golden brown. and serve, dusting each soup bowl with a little
3 Add the water and potatoes, bring to the boil and paprika.
simmer gently until the potatoes are cooked but The traditional accompaniment is salted cracker
not mushy. biscuits. An obvious variation would be to use scallops
in place of clams.

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34 Prawn bisque

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Heat the oil and the butter. Add the prawns and
cook for 3–4 minutes on a moderately high heat.
Oil 50 ml 125 ml
2 Sprinkle in the flour and cook for a further
Butter 30 g 75 g
2–3 minutes.
Unshelled prawns 250 g 625 g
3 Add the tomato purée and cook for a further
Flour 20 g 50 g
2 minutes.
Tomato purée 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
4 Meanwhile, bring the nage up to a simmer and,
Shellfish nage (4 portions) 1 litre 2.5 litres once the tomato purée has been cooked in,
Fish stock 150 ml 375 ml slowly add to the prawn mix, being mindful that
Whipping cream 120 ml 300 ml you have formed a roux; stir in the fish stock to
Dry sherry 75 ml 180 ml prevent lumping.
Paprika, pinch 5 Once all the stock has been added, bring to the
Seasoning
boil and simmer for 3–4 minutes.
Chives, chopped 6 Pass through a fine sieve, return the shells to the
pan and pound to extract more flavour and more
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
colour.
1,578 kJ 381 kcal 31.2 g 13.0 g 8.2 g 4.0 g 12.9 g 0.8 g 1.0 g
7 Pour over the fish stock, bring to the boil, then
pass this back on to the already passed soup.
8 Bring to the boil, add the cream and sherry,
correct the seasoning and served with chopped
chives.

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Sauce recipes

35 Béchamel sauce (white sauce)

1 Melt the butter or heat the oil in a thick-bottomed


pan.
2 Mix in the flour with a heat-proof plastic or
wooden spoon.
3 Cook for a few minutes, stirring frequently. As you
are making a white roux, do not allow the mixture
to colour.
4 Remove the pan from the heat to allow the roux to
cool.
5 Return the pan to the stove and, over a low heat,
gradually mix the milk into the roux.
6 Add the studded onion.

Ingredient 1 litre 4.5 litres


7 Allow the mixture to simmer gently for 30 minutes,
stirring frequently to make sure the sauce does
Butter or oil 100 g 400 g
not burn on the bottom.
Flour 100 g 400 g
8 Remove the onion and pass the sauce through a
Milk, warmed 1 litre 4.5 litres
conical strainer.
Onion, studded with cloves 1 2–3
Professional tip
To prevent a skin from forming, brush the surface with
Variation
melted butter. When ready to use, stir this into the
For cream sauce, finish with 125 ml single cream per litre sauce. Alternatively, cover the sauce with cling film or
of béchamel sauce. greaseproof paper.

36 Reduced-fat béchamel sauce

Ingredient 1 The milk may be first infused with an onion clouté


(an onion studded with cloves and a bay leaf),
Milk 500 ml
carrot and a bouquet garni. Allow to cool.
Sauce flour 40 g
2 Place the milk in a suitable saucepan and
Seasoning
gradually whisk in the sauce flour. Bring slowly to
the boil until the sauce has thickened.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
302 kJ 73 kcal 1.8 g 1.1 g 10.9 g 4.8 g 4.2 g 0.3 g 3 Season and simmer for approximately
5–10 minutes. Use as required.

Professional tip
Add a little blended cornflour prior to heating to stabilise
the sauce.

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37 Parsley sauce

Ingredient Makes 500 ml


Milk 500 ml
Sauce flour 40 g
Parsley, chopped 1 tbsp
Seasoning

1 The milk may be first infused with a studded


onion clouté, carrot and a bouquet garni. Allow to
cool.
2 Place the milk in a suitable saucepan, gradually
whisk in the sauce flour. Bring slowly to the boil
until the sauce has thickened.
3 Season, simmer for approximately 5–10 minutes.
Add the parsley. Use as required.

38 Cheese sauce (mornay)

Ingredient Makes 500 ml


Milk 500 ml
Grated cheese 50 g
Egg yolk 1
Sauce flour 40 g

1 The milk may be first infused with a studded


onion clouté, carrot and a bouquet garni. Allow to
cool.
2 Place the milk in a suitable saucepan, gradually
whisk in the sauce flour. Bring slowly to the boil
until the sauce has thickened.
3 Mix in the cheese and egg yolk when the sauce is
boiling.
4 Remove from the heat. Strain if necessary.
5 Do not allow the sauce to reboil at any time.

Professional tip
Add a little cornflour prior to heating to stabilise the
sauce.

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39 Soubise

Ingredient Makes 500 ml


Onion, chopped or diced 100 g
Milk 500 ml
Sauce flour 40 g
Seasoning

Note
This recipe, like mornay sauce and parsley sauce
(Recipes 37 and 38) uses sauce flour to thicken the
sauce, rather than a traditional roux base. This is a
simpler method and produces a lower fat content.

1 Cook the onions without colouring them, either by 3 Place the milk in a suitable saucepan, gradually
boiling or sweating in butter. whisk in the sauce flour. Bring slowly to the boil
2 The milk may be first infused with a studded until the sauce has thickened.
onion clouté, carrot and a bouquet garni. Allow to 4 Add the onions, season, simmer for approximately
cool. 5–10 minutes.
5 Blitz well. Pass through a strainer.

40 Suprême sauce

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Margarine, butter or oil 100 g 250 g
Flour 100 g 250 g
Stock (chicken, veal, fish or mutton) 1 litre 2.5 litres
Mushroom trimmings 25 g 60 g
Egg yolk 1 2½
Cream 60 ml 150 ml
Lemon juice 2–3 drops 5–6 drops

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1339 kJ 322 kcal 25.2 g 15.3 g 21.1 g 1.8 g 4.1 g 1.6 g 0.2 g

Using butter.

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1 Melt the fat or oil in a thick-bottomed pan. This sauce can be served hot with boiled chicken,
2 Add the flour and mix in. Cook to a sandy texture vol-au-vonts, etc., and can also be used for white
over a gentle heat, without colouring. chaud-froid sauce. The traditional stock base is a good
chicken stock.
3 Allow the roux to cool, then gradually add the
boiling stock. Stir until smooth and boiling.
Professional tip
4 Add the mushroom trimmings. Simmer for Once the liaison has been added, do not reboil this
approximately 1 hour. sauce.
5 Pass through a final conical strainer.
6 Finish with a liaison of the egg yolk, cream and
lemon juice. Serve immediately.

41 Mushroom sauce

Ingredient 1 litre 4.5 litres


Butter or oil 100 g 400 g
Flour 100 g 400 g
Stock (chicken, veal, fish, mutton) 1 litre 4.5 litres
as required
White button mushrooms, 200 g 900 g
well-washed, sliced, sweated
Mushroom trimmings 50 g 225 g
Egg yolk 2 9
Cream 120 ml 540 ml
Lemon, juice of ½ 1

1 Melt the butter or heat the oil in a thick-bottomed


pan.
2 Add the flour and mix in.
3 Cook out to a sandy texture over gentle heat
without colouring.
4 Allow the roux to cool.
5 Gradually add the boiling stock.
6 Stir until smooth and boiling.
7 Add the mushrooms and trimmings. Allow to
simmer for approximately 1 hour.
8 Pass it through a fine conical strainer.
9 Simmer for 10 minutes, then add the egg yolk,
cream and lemon juice.

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42 Ivory sauce

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Chicken or veal velouté 250 ml 625 ml
Mushroom trimmings, washed 50 g 125 g
and dried
Cream, single or double 50 ml 125 ml
Lemon, juice of ½ 1½
Chicken or beef meat glaze 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Seasoning

1 Place the velouté into a suitable saucepan and


bring to the boil.
2 Add the mushroom trimmings; simmer for
10 minutes.
3 Pass the sauce through a fine chinois.
4 Add the meat glaze; stir well to achieve an ivory
colour.
5 Add the lemon juice and finish with cream.
Correct the seasoning.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Serve with grilled veal or pork chops, grilled or poached
351 kJ 85 kcal 6.8 g 4.3 g 4.9 g 0.8 g 1.3 g 0.6 g 0.0 g chicken.
Using butter and single cream.

43 Aurora sauce

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Chicken or veal velouté 250 ml 625 ml
Mushroom trimmings, washed 50 g 125 g
and dried
Fresh cream, double or single 50 ml 125 mls
Egg yolks 1 3
Lemon, juice of ½ 1½
Tomato purée 1 tbsp 1½ tbsp
Seasoning

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
247 kJ 59 kcal 4.0 g 1.9 g 3.0 g 2.7 g 3.1 g 0.4 g 0.0 g

Using single cream, and chicken soup in place of velouté.

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1 Place the velouté in a suitable saucepan and 6 Add a little of the hot sauce to this mix; whisk
bring to the boil. well.
2 Add the mushroom trimmings. Allow to simmer 7 Return to the main sauce and stir. Do NOT allow
for 10 minutes. to re-boil.
3 Add the tomato purée; mix well. 8 Finish with lemon juice.
4 Strain through a fine chinois. Serve with poached chicken or poached eggs. If
serving with poached or steamed fish use fish velouté.
5 In a basin mix the egg yolks and cream.

44 Chasseur sauce 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Butter or oil 25 g 60 g
Shallots, chopped 10 g 25 g
Clove of garlic, chopped (optional) 1 1
Button mushrooms, sliced 50 g 125 g
White wine, dry 60 ml 150 ml
Tomatoes, skinned, deseeded, 100 g 250 g
diced
Demi-glace, jus-lié or reduced 250 ml 625 ml
stock
Parsley and tarragon, chopped

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


227 kJ 55 kcal 5.3 g 2.5 g 1.4 g 1.2 g 0.5 g 0.5 g

1 Melt the butter or heat the oil in a small sauteuse. May be served with fried steaks, chops, chicken, etc.
2 Add the shallots and cook gently for 2–3 minutes
without colour. Healthy eating tips
l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or vegetable).
3 Add the garlic and the mushrooms, cover and Lightly oil the pan.
cook gently for 2–3 minutes. l Skim the fat from the finished dish.
l Season with the minimum amount of salt.
4 Strain off the fat.
5 Add the wine and reduce by half. Add the
tomatoes.
6 Add the demi-glace; simmer for 5–10 minutes.
7 Correct the seasoning. Add the tarragon and
parsley.

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45 Devilled sauce (sauce diable) 

Ingredient Makes 250 g


Butter 25 g
Shallots, finely chopped 25 g
Dry white wine 150 ml
Reduced brown stock or jus-lié 250 ml
Cayenne pepper 2 grams

1 In a suitable pan, add the butter and gently sweat


the shallots without colour.
2 Add the white wine; reduce by half.
3 Add the brown stock or jus-lié; bring to the boil
and simmer for 2 minutes.
4 Season with cayenne pepper. Correct the
seasoning and consistency.
Serve with grilled chicken and steaks.

Professional tip
The sauce should have a background flavour of white
wine, with a sharp after taste from the cayenne pepper.
The sauce may also be improved with the addition of
15 g of soft butter before serving.

46 Robert sauce 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Oil or butter 20 g 50 g
Onions, finely chipped 10 g 25 g
Vinegar 60 ml 150 g
Demi-glace, jus-lié or reduced stock 250 ml 625 ml
English or continental mustard 1 level tbsp 2½ level tbsp
Caster sugar 1 level tbsp 2½ level tbsp

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
401 kJ 96 kcal 5.7 g 3.1 g 8.3 g 6.5 g 2.5 g 0.4 g 0.2 g

Using butter.

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1 Melt the fat or oil in a small sauteuse. May be served with fried sausages and burgers or
2 Add the onions. Cook gently without colour. grilled pork chops.
3 Add the vinegar and reduce completely.
Healthy eating tips
4 Add the demi-glace; simmer for 5–10 minutes. l Use unsaturated oil (sunflower or olive). Lightly oil
5 Remove from the heat and add the mustard, the pan and drain off any excess after the frying is
complete. Skim the fat from the finished dish.
diluted with a little water and the sugar; do not
l Season with the minimum amount of salt.
boil.
6 Skim and correct the seasoning.

47 Piquant sauce

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Vinegar 60 ml 150 ml
Shallots, chopped 50 g 125 g
Demi-glace, jus-lié or reduced stock 250 ml 625 ml
Gherkins, chopped 25 g 60 g
Capers, chopped 10 g 25 g
Chervil, tarragon and parsley, chopped ½ tbsp 1½ tbsp

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
151 kJ 36 kcal 1.3 g 0.5 g 3.0 g 1.3 g 2.4 g 0.7 g 0.0 g

1 Place the vinegar and shallots in a small sauteuse


and reduce by half.
2 Add the demi-glace; simmer for 15–20 minutes.
3 Add the rest of the ingredients.
4 Skim and correct the seasoning.
May be served with made-up dishes, sausages and
grilled meats.

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48 Madeira sauce

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Demi-glace, jus-lié or reduced stock 250 ml 625 ml
Madeira wine 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Butter 25 g 60 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
365 kJ 88 kcal 6.4 g 3.7 g 3.5 g 1.4 g 2.1 g 0.3 g 0.1 g

1 Boil the demi-glace in a small sauteuse.


2 Add the Madeira and reboil.
3 Correct the seasoning.
4 Pass through a fine conical strainer.
5 Gradually mix in the butter.
May be served with braised ox tongue or ham.

Variation
Dry sherry or port wine may be substituted for Madeira
(and the sauce renamed accordingly).

49 Brown onion sauce (sauce lyonnaise) 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Margarine, oil or butter 25 g 60 g
Onions, sliced 100 g 250 g
Vinegar 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Demi-glace, jus-lié or reduced stock 250 ml 625 ml

1 Melt the fat or oil in a sauteuse.


2 Add the onions; cover with a lid and cook gently
until tender and golden in colour.
3 Remove the lid and colour lightly.
4 Add the vinegar and completely reduce.
5 Add the demi-glace; simmer for 5–10 minutes.
6 Skim and correct the seasoning.
May be served with burgers, fried liver or sausages.

Healthy eating tips


Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium l Use unsaturated oil (sunflower or olive). Lightly oil
374 kJ 90 kcal 6.8 g 3.9 g 3.5 g 1.8 g 3.7 g 1.0 g 0.1 g the pan and drain off any excess after the frying is
Using butter. complete. Skim the fat from the finished dish.
l Season with the minimum amount of salt.

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50 Italian sauce 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Margarine, oil or butter 25 g 60 g
Shallots, chopped 10 g 25 g
Mushrooms, chopped 50 g 125 g
Demi-glace, jus-lié or reduced stock 250 ml 625 ml
Lean ham, chopped 25 g 60 g
Tomatoes, skinned, deseeded 100 g 250 g
Diced parsley, chervil and tarragon,
chopped

Healthy eating tips


l Use unsaturated oil (sunflower or olive). Lightly oil
the pan and drain off any excess after the frying is
complete.
l Trim as much fat as possible from the ham.
l The ham is salty, so do not add more salt; flavour will
come from the herbs.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium l Skim all fat from the finished sauce.
359 kJ 86 kcal 6.5 g 3.7 g 4.4 g 2.2 g 2.4 g 0.8 g 0.1 g

Using butter.

1 Melt the fat or oil in a small sauteuse. 4 Add the demi-glace, ham and tomatoes. Simmer
2 To make a duxelle, add the shallots and cook for 5–10 minutes.
gently for 2–3 minutes. 5 Correct the seasoning; add the chopped herbs.
3 Add the mushrooms and cook gently for a further
2–3 minutes.

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51 Pepper sauce (sauce poivrade)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Butter, margarine or oil 25 g 60 g
Onions, chopped into mirepoix 50 g 125 g
Carrots, chopped into mirepoix 50 g 125 g
Celery, chopped into mirepoix 50 g 125 g
Bay leaf 1 1
Sprig of thyme
White wine 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Vinegar 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Mignonette pepper 5g 12 g
Demi-glace, jus-lié or reduced stock 250 ml 625 ml
Cream (optional, to finish) 25 ml 65 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


247 kJ 60 kcal 5.3 g 2.5 g 2.6 g 2.0 g 0.5 g 0.6 g

1 Melt the fat or heat the oil in a small sauteuse.


Note
2 Add the vegetables (mirepoix) and herbs, and
allow to brown. Mignonette pepper is coarsely ground black pepper.
Softer green or pink peppercorns may be used instead.
3 Add the wine, vinegar and pepper. Reduce by half. This sauce is usually served with joints or cuts of
4 Add the demi-glace and simmer for venison.
20–30 minutes.
5 Pass through a fine conical strainer. Healthy eating tips
6 Correct the seasoning. l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or vegetable).
Lightly oil the pan.
7 Finish with cream if desired. l Skim the fat from the finished dish.
l Season with the minimum amount of salt.

52 Beef jus 

Ingredient 1 litre
Mushrooms, finely sliced 750 g
Butter 100 g
Shallots, finely sliced 350 g
Beef trim, diced 350 g
Sherry vinegar 100 ml
Red wine 700 ml
Chicken stock 500 ml
Beef stock 1 litre

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1 Caramelise the mushrooms in foaming butter, the vinegar, then add to the pan with the beef,
strain, then put aside in pan. shallots and mushrooms in it.
2 Caramelise the shallots in foaming butter, strain, 5 In a separate pan, reduce the wine by half and
then put aside in pan. add to the main pan.
3 In another pan, caramelise the beef trim until 6 Add the stock, then reduce to sauce consistency.
golden brown. 7 Pass through a sieve, then chill and store until
4 Place the mushrooms, shallots and beef trim in needed.
one of the pans. Deglaze the other two pans with

53 Roast chicken jus

Ingredient 1 litre
Chicken stock 600 ml
Lamb jus 600 ml
Chicken wings, chopped small 300 g
Vegetable oil 60 ml
Shallots, sliced 100 g
Butter 50 g
Tomatoes, chopped 200 g
White wine vinegar 40 ml
Red wine vinegar 75 ml
Tarragon 1 tsp
Chervil 1 tsp

1 Put the jus and stock in a pan and reduce to 5 Ensure the bottom of the pan is clean. Add the
1 litre. reduced stock/jus and simmer for 15 minutes.
2 Roast the chicken wings in oil until slightly golden. 6 Pass through a sieve, then reduce to sauce
3 Add the shallots and butter, and cook until lightly consistency.
browned (do not allow the butter to burn). 7 Remove from the heat and infuse with the
4 Strain off the butter and return the bones to the aromats for 5 minutes.
pan; deglaze with the vinegar and add tomatoes. 8 Pass through a chinois and then muslin cloth.

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54 Red wine jus 

Ingredient 1 litre
Shallots, sliced 150 g
Butter 50 g
Garlic, halved 10 g
Red wine vinegar 100 ml
Red wine 250 ml
Chicken stock 350 ml
Lamb or beef jus 250 ml
Bay leaves 2
Sprig of thyme 1

1 Caramelise the shallots in foaming butter until 4 When everything is done, combine and simmer
golden, adding the garlic at the end. for 20 minutes.
2 Strain through a colander and then put back into 5 Pass through a sieve and reduce to sauce
the pan and deglaze with the vinegar. consistency.
3 Reduce the red wine by half along with the 6 Infuse the aromats for 5 minutes.
stock and jus, at the same time as colouring the 7 Pass through muslin cloth and store until needed.
shallots.

55 Roast gravy (jus rôti) 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Raw veal bones or beef and veal 200 g 500 g
trimmings
Stock or water 500 ml 1.25 litres
Onions, chopped 50 g 125 g
Celery, chopped 25 g 60 g
Carrots, chopped 50 g 125 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
309 kJ 74 kcal 3.9 g 1.5 g 3.3 g 2.7 g 6.2 g 1.3 g 0.1 g

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1 Chop the bones and brown in the oven, or brown 9 Return the joint to the stove and brown carefully;
in a little oil on top of the stove in a frying pan. deglaze with the brown stock.
Drain off all the fat. 10 Allow to simmer for a few minutes.
2 Place the bones in a saucepan with the stock or 11 Correct the colour and seasoning. Strain and
water. skim off all fat.
3 Bring to the boil, skim and allow to simmer.
4 Add the lightly browned vegetables, which may Professional tip
be fried in a little fat in a frying pan or added to For preference, use beef bones for roast beef gravy and
the bones when partly browned. the appropriate bones for lamb, veal, mutton and pork.

5 Simmer for 1½–2 hours.


6 Remove the joint from the roasting tin when Healthy eating tips
cooked. l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or vegetable).
Lightly oil the pan.
7 Return the tray to a low heat to allow the sediment
l Season with the minimum amount of salt.
to settle.
8 Carefully strain off the fat, leaving the sediment in
the tin.

56 Thickened gravy (jus-lié)

1 Start with roast gravy (recipe 55) or reduced veal


stock (recipe 8). Add a little tomato purée, a few
mushroom trimmings and a pinch of thyme and
simmer for 10–15 minutes.
2 Stir some arrowroot diluted in cold water into the
simmering gravy.
3 Reboil, simmer for 5–10 minutes and pass
through a strainer.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
247 kJ 59 kcal 2.6 g 1.0 g 4.7 g 1.4 g 4.1 g 0.7 g 0.1 g

Variation
Add a little rosemary, thyme or lavender.

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57 Apple sauce

Ingredient 8 portions
Cooking apples 400 g
Sugar 50 g
Butter or margarine 25 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
276 kJ 65 kcal 2.6 g 1.6 g 11.0 g 11.0 g 0.2 g 1.1 g 0.0 g

Using butter.

1 Peel, core and wash the apples.


2 Place with other ingredients in a covered pan and
cook to a purée.
3 Pass through a sieve or liquidise.

58 Tomato sauce (sauce tomate)

Ingredient Makes 500 ml


Carrots, chopped into mirepoix 90 g
Celery, chopped into mirepoix 30 g
Clove of garlic, chopped ½
Vegetable oil 25 g
Butter 25 g
Thyme 1g
Bay leaf ½
Tomato purée 12 g
Plum tomatoes 200 g

1 Sweat the carrots, celery and garlic in the oil and Chicken stock 750 g
butter. Juniper berries 2
2 Add the thyme, bay leaf and tomato purée, and Cream 75 g
cook for 5 minutes. Gastric (50/50 sherry vinegar and sugar, heated to 5g
dissolve the sugar)
3 Add the plum tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes.
4 Add the chicken stock and juniper berries, reduce
by a third.
5 Remove the mirepoix. Strain through a chinois.
6 Finish with the cream, bring to the boil and blitz.
7 Season with salt and gastric.

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59 Cranberry sauce

Ingredient 8 portions
Cranberries 400 g
Water 100 ml
Sugar 50 g

1 Simmer all ingredients together in a covered pan


(not iron or aluminium) until soft.
2 The sauce may be sieved or liquidised if required.

Variation
Half orange juice and half water, plus some grated
orange zest, may be used. Alternatively, use half orange
juice and half port wine.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
138 kJ 32 kcal 0.1 g 0.0 g 8.3 g 8.3 g 0.2 g 1.9 g 0.0 g

60 Hollandaise sauce

Ingredient Makes 500 g


Peppercorns, crushed 12
White wine vinegar 3 tbsp
Egg yolks 6
Melted butter 325 g
Salt and cayenne pepper

1 Place the peppercorns and vinegar in a small pan


and reduce to one-third.
2 Add 1 tablespoon of cold water and allow to cool.
Add the egg yolks.
3 Put on a bain-marie and whisk continuously to a
sabayon consistency.
4 Remove from the heat and gradually whisk in the
melted butter.
5 Add seasoning and pass through muslin or a fine
chinois.
6 Store in an appropriate container at room
temperature.

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Note Faults
Egg-based sauces should not be kept warm for more If you add oil or butter too fast when making hollandaise
than two hours. After this time, they should be thrown or mayonnaise, the sauce may curdle because the
away. They are best made fresh to order. lecithin has had insufficient time to coat the droplets.
This can be rectified by adding the broken sauce to
more egg yolks.
Variation
l Mousseline sauce – a hollandaise base with lightly
whipped cream.
l Maltaise sauce – a hollandaise base with lightly
grated zest and juice of one blood orange.

61 Béarnaise sauce

1 Place the shallots, tarragon, peppercorns and


vinegar in a small pan and reduce to one-third.
2 Add 1 tablespoon of cold water and allow to cool.
Add the egg yolks.
3 Put on a bain-marie and whisk continuously to a
sabayon consistency.
4 Remove from the heat and gradually whisk in the
melted butter.
5 Add seasoning. Pass through muslin or a fine
chinois.
6 To finish, add the chopped chervil and tarragon.
7 Store in an appropriate container.

Note
Egg-based sauces should not be kept warm for more
than two hours. After this time, they should be thrown
away. They are best made fresh to order.

Ingredient Makes 500 ml


Professional tip
Shallots, chopped 50 g
This sauce should be twice as thick as hollandaise.
Tarragon 10 g
Peppercorns, crushed 12
White wine vinegar 3 tbsp Variation
l Choron sauce – add 200 g tomato concassé, well
Egg yolks 6
dried. Do not add the chopped tarragon and chervil
Melted butter 325 g to finish.
Salt and cayenne pepper l Foyot or valois sauce – add 25 g warm meat glaze.
l Paloise sauce – use chopped mint stalks in place or
Chervil and tarragon to finish, chopped
the tarragon in the reduction. To finish, add chopped
mint instead of the chervil and tarragon.

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Stocks, soups and sauces 5

62 Salsa verde

Ingredient 8 portions
Mint, coarsely chopped 1 tbsp
Parsley, coarsely chopped 3 tbsp
Capers, coarsely chopped 3
Clove of garlic (optional) 1
Dijon mustard 1 tsp
Lemon, juice of ½
Extra virgin olive oil 120 ml
Salt

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


281 kJ 69 kcal 7.5 g 1.1 g 0.2 g 0.1 g 0.1 g 0.0 g

Per tablespoon.

1 In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients together


and check the seasoning.
Serve with grilled fish.

63 Tomato and cucumber salsa

Ingredient 8 portions
Ripe tomatoes, skinned, deseeded, chopped 400 g
Cucumber, peeled, chopped ½
Spring onions, chopped 6
Fresh basil, chopped 1 tbsp
Fresh parsley, chopped 1 tbsp
Olive oil 3 tbsp
Lemon or lime, juice of 1
Salt and pepper

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1 Mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl.
202 kJ 49 kcal 4.3 g 0.7 g 2.0 g 2.0 g 0.6 g 0.7 g
2 Correct seasoning and serve.

Healthy eating tips Variation


Rely on the herbs for flavour, with the minimum amount This recipe may be varied by using any chopped salad
of salt. ingredients and fresh herbs (e.g. tarragon, chervil). Do
not be afraid to experiment.
Extra vegetables can be added and the salsa used
liberally with grilled fish or chicken. Rice could be served
with this, or the salsa used to fill a tortilla.

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64 Avocado and coriander salsa

Ingredient 8 portions
Ripe avocado, peeled and diced 1
Ripe tomatoes, peeled, deseeded and diced 3
Shallot, peeled and cut into rings 1
Fresh coriander, chopped 1 tsp
Pine kernels, toasted 10 g
Cucumber, diced 25 g
Lemon or lime, juice of 1
Virgin olive oil 3 tbsp
Salt and pepper to taste

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


361 kJ 87 kcal 8.6 g 1.4 g 1.8 g 1.4 g 0.8 g 1.0 g Healthy eating tips
l Although avocado is rich in fat, it is unsaturated fat
and therefore healthier.
1 Mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl.
l Try using the salsa to fill a tortilla, and add grilled fish
2 Check the seasoning and serve. or chicken to make a healthy meal.
Use with cold dishes such as salads or terrines.

65 Melted butter sauce (beurre fondu)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Butter 200 g 500 g
Water or white wine 2 tbsp 5 tbsp

l Method 1: boil the butter and water together


gently until combined, then pass through a fine
strainer.
l Method 2: melt the butter in the water and
carefully strain off the fat, leaving the water and
sediment in the pan.

Note
Usually served with poached fish and certain vegetables
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre (e.g. blue trout, salmon, asparagus, sea kale).
388 kJ 94 kcal 10.3 g 6.5 g 0.1 g 0.1 g 0.1 g 0.0 g

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66 Horseradish sauce (sauce raifort)

Ingredient 8 portions
Horseradish 25 g
Vinegar or lemon juice 1 tbsp
Salt, pepper
Cream or crème fraiche, lightly whipped 125 ml

1 Wash, peel and rewash the horseradish. Grate


finely.
2 Mix all the ingredients together.
Serve with roast beef, smoked trout, eel or halibut.

Professional tip
It is essential to blend the ingredients without over-
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium mixing them, in order to get a good flavour.
135 kJ 33 kcal 3.0 g 1.9 g 0.7 g 0.6 g 0.7 g 0.3 g 0.0 g

Using cream.

67 Sweet and sour sauce

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


White vinegar 375 ml 1 litre
Brown sugar 150 g 375 g
Tomato ketchup 125 ml 300 ml
Light soy sauce 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Seasoning

1 Boil the vinegar and sugar in a suitable pan.


2 Add the tomato ketchup, soy sauce and
seasoning.
3 Simmer for a few minutes then use as required.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium This sauce may also be lightly thickened with
823 kJ 194 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 47.8 g 47.4 g 1.0 g 0.4 g 0.8 g cornflour or another thickening agent.

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68 Gribiche sauce

Ingredient 500 g
Hard-boiled eggs, sieved 2
Vegetable oil 325 ml
French mustard 1 tsp
White wine vinegar 100 ml
Capers, chopped 30 g
Gherkins, chopped 30 g
Parsley, chopped ½ tsp
Chives, chopped ½ tsp
Basil, chopped ½ tsp
Seasoning

This is an emulsified sauce. The mustard is a natural


emulsifying agent.

1 Place the sieved egg yolks in a basin and add the 4 When the emulsion is formed, add the remainder
mustard and vinegar. of the ingredients and season.
2 Whisk together with a balloon whisk. Serve with steamed fish, fried fish, cold meats, chicken
and gammon.
3 Slowly add the oil, whisking continuously.

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6 Eggs
This chapter is relevant to the following units:
➜ Prepare, cook and finish basic egg dishes.

Recipes included in this chapter 5 Scrambled eggs (oeufs brouillés) 110


6 Eggs Benedict 110
7 Eggs en cocotte 111
No. Recipe Page
8 Eggs sur le plat 112
1 Soft-boiled eggs in the shell (oeufs à la coque) 108
9 Scotch eggs 112
2 Soft-boiled eggs out of the shell (oeufs 108
mollets) 10 Omelette (omelette nature) 114
3 Hard-boiled eggs (oeufs durs) 109 11 Spanish omelette 115
4 Fried eggs (oeufs frits) 109 12 Feta, mint, lentil and pistachio omelette 116

Eggs are a very versatile ingredient and are used extensively special antibacterial properties, which, under normal
in hors d’oeuvres, meat and poultry dishes, soups, pasta, circumstances, prevent the growth and multiplication
egg dishes, salads, fish dishes, sweets and pastries, sauces of micro-organisms that have entered the shell. The yolk
and savouries. They are useful as a main dish as they provide is rich in nutrients and is the part of the egg that is most
the energy, fat, minerals and vitamins needed for growth vulnerable to micro-organisms.
and repair of the body.
Egg yolks are high in saturated fat, while egg whites are
Fried, scrambled, poached and boiled eggs, and omelettes, made up of protein and water.
are mainly served at breakfast, but a variety of egg dishes
Air sac Blastodisc
may also be served for lunch, high tea, supper and snacks.
Chalaza Shell Cuticle
Most egg products are available in liquid, frozen or
spray-dried form. Whole eggs are used primarily for
cake production, where their foaming and coagulation
properties are required. Egg whites are used for meringues
and light sponges, where their foaming property is crucial.

The structure of eggs


Shell Thick Outer
The outer shell of an egg is composed mainly of calcium membrane white thin white
carbonate; they are lined with membranes and have a
number of pores for gas exchange. These pores are covered
Table 6.1 The composition of eggs (approximate percentages)
by a wax-like layer known as the cuticle. This cuticle protects
against microbial invasion and controls water loss. Whole egg White Yolk
Water 73 87 47
The egg white is divided into a thick layer around the
yolk and a thinner layer next to the shell. The thick layer Protein 12 10 15
anchors the yolk, together with the chalaza, in the middle Fat 11 0 33
of the egg, where it is less vulnerable to microbial attack. Minerals 1 0.5 2
The egg white has an important function as it possesses Vitamins 3 2.5 3

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Types of eggs farm handling of eggs, distribution of eggs from farms,


feeding, hen disposal, packing centres, procedures, advice
Almost all of the eggs used for culinary purposes come to retailers, consumers and caterers, and environmental
from hens, but eggs from turkeys, geese, ducks, guinea policy and enforcement. For more information on the
fowl, quail and gulls are also edible. British Lion Quality mark see www.lioneggfarms.co.uk.
Quails’ eggs are used in a variety of ways, for example: as
a garnish on many hot and cold dishes; and as a starter or Quality grading
main course, such as a salad of assorted leaves with hot wild
Under European law eggs are graded for quality using the
mushrooms and poached quail eggs, or tartlet of quail eggs
following system:
on chopped mushrooms coated with hollandaise sauce.
l Grade A – naturally clean, fresh eggs, internally perfect
with intact shells and an air sac not exceeding 6 mm in
Purchasing and quality depth.

points l Grade B – eggs that have been downgraded because


they have been cleaned or preserved, or because they
When buying eggs the following points should be noted: are internally imperfect, cracked or have an air sac
l The eggshell should be clean, well shaped, strong and exceeding 6 mm but not more than 9 mm in depth.
slightly rough. Grade B eggs are broken out and pasteurised.
l When eggs are broken there should be a high l Grade C – eggs that are fit for breaking for
proportion of thick white to thin white. If an egg is kept, manufacturing purposes but cannot be sold in their
the thick white gradually changes into thin white, and shells to the public.
water passes from the white into the yolk.
l The yolk should be firm, round (not flattened) and of
a good, even colour. As eggs are kept the yolk loses
Sizes
strength and begins to flatten, water evaporates from Hens’ eggs are now graded in four sizes in the UK – small,
the egg and is replaced by air. medium, large and very large – as shown in Table 6.2 below.
l Hens can pass salmonella bacteria into their eggs and Table 6.2 Hens’ egg sizes
therefore cause food poisoning. To reduce this risk,
Egg size Weight Old size
pasteurised eggs may be used where appropriate
(pasteurised eggs are washed, sanitised and then Very large 73 g Size 0 to size 1
broken into sterilised containers; with the yolks and Large 63–73 g Size 1 to size 3
whites either separated or together they are strained Medium 53–63 g Size 3 to size 5
and pasteurised – that is, heated to 63 °C for one minute Small 53 g and under Size 5 to size 7
– then rapidly cooled).
l Always purchase fresh eggs from sources where there is
The size of the eggs does not affect their quality, but it does
no salmonella contamination or from a low-risk supplier.
affect their price. Once eggs have been tested for quality,
Look for the ‘Lion’ quality mark on the egg shell and
then weighed and graded (see Purchasing and quality
egg box – it shows that the eggs have been produced
points below) they are packed into boxes. The wholesale
to the highest standards of food safety, including a
price of eggs is quoted per ‘long hundred’ (120). All egg
programme of vaccination against Salmonella enteritidis.
boxes leaving the packing station are dated.
Always buy eggs from a reputable retailer where they
will have been transported and stored at the correct
temperature (below 20 °C). Preparing and cooking
l Cracked eggs should not be used.
eggs
Candling of eggs is a method that is used for checking the Make sure the eggs are fresh and always cook them according
quality of eggs. The egg is illuminated with a light so the to the recipe. Take special care when undercooking eggs so
flaws can be seen, including the yolk position and size, the that the yolks are soft.
size of the air sac and the presence of blood or meat spots.
Cooking eggs using different methods will affect the taste
The Code of Practice for Lion Quality eggs covers breeding and texture. Egg dishes can be very flavoursome and use
flocks and hatcheries, pullet rearing and laying birds, a range of herbs and spices, especially when preparing
including both hygiene and animal welfare requirements, scrambled eggs and omelettes.

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Environmental officers advise that eggs should be cooked


well done and should reach an internal temperature of 72 °C.
Holding and serving
However, eggs cooked to this temperature are overcooked temperatures
and often have a rubbery texture. Most people expect eggs When possible, always serve eggs to order. Do not have egg
to be served at a lower temperature, but they should be dishes such as fried eggs and scrambled eggs on a buffet
cooked thoroughly to reduce the risk of food poisoning for long periods as they will tend to loose moisture and
from salmonella. dry out, changing their texture and flavour and therefore
becoming inedible.
Always choose the correct tools and equipment when
cooking egg dishes, especially when scrambling, poaching, As explained above, it is best that eggs are cooked to order
frying, boiling and baking. Always have the correct and are cooked through. Do not leave eggs cooked and
equipment to hand. on a hot buffet for long periods – leave for no more than
20 minutes.
Health and safety Egg dishes should be consumed as soon as possible after
l Hands should be washed before and after handling preparation or, if not for immediate use, refrigerated at 5 °C
eggs. or below.
l Preparation surfaces, utensils and containers should
be cleaned regularly and always cleaned between
preparation of different dishes. Storing eggs
Eggs should be stored in a cool but not too dry place (0–5 °C
Healthy options when making is ideal) where the humidity of the air and the amount of
carbon dioxide present are controlled. Eggs will keep for up
egg dishes to nine months under these conditions.
When preparing egg dishes such as omelettes, scrambled
Most eggs have date stamps and must not be used after
eggs or eggs sur le plat, use olive oil instead of butter. When
that date. Stocks should be rotated: first in, first out.
finishing egg dishes, fromage frais or natural yoghurt can
be used instead of cream in some recipes. Because eggshells are porous, eggs will absorb any strong
odours; therefore, they should not be stored near strong-
smelling foods such as onions, fish and cheese.

Test yourself
1 State four quality points to look for when buying fresh eggs.
2 Describe the process for cooking a poached egg.
3 State what you could do when preparing and cooking scrambled eggs to
make the dish healthier.
4 At what temperature should egg dishes be held for service?
5 How should an egg dish not for immediate use be stored?

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Egg recipes

1 Soft-boiled eggs in the shell (oeufs à la coque)

Allow 1 or 2 eggs per portion.

Method 1 (soft)
1 Place the eggs in cold water and bring to the boil.
2 Simmer for 2–2½ minutes, then remove from the
water.
3 Serve at once in an egg cup.

Method 2 (medium soft)


1 Plunge the eggs in boiling water, then reboil.
2 Simmer for 4–5 minutes.
3 Serve at once in an egg cup.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
340 kJ 81 kcal 6.0 g 1.9 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 6.8 g 0.0 g

Using 1 egg per portion.

2 Soft-boiled eggs out of the shell (oeufs mollets)

Hard-boiled eggs (left) and soft-boiled eggs (right) – recipes 2 and 3


Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Allow 1 or 2 eggs per portion.
1,052 kJ 251 kcal 18.9 g 8.7 g 8.0 g 3.3 g 12.5 g 1.2 g

Using 1 egg per portion.


1 Plunge the eggs into boiling water, then bring
back to the boil.
2 Simmer for 4½–5 minutes. Refresh immediately.
3 Remove the shells carefully.
4 Reheat when required for 30 seconds in hot
salted water.

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3 Hard-boiled eggs (oeufs durs)


Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
753 kJ 181 kcal 13.5 g 3.8 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 15.0 g 0.0 g Note

Allow 1 or 2 eggs per portion. If high temperatures or a long cooking time are used to
cook eggs, iron in the yolk and sulphur compounds in
1 Plunge the eggs into a pan of boiling water. the white are released to form an unsightly blackish ring
2 Reboil and simmer for 8–10 minutes. around the yolk. Stale eggs will also show a black ring
round the yolk.
3 Refresh until cold under running water.
4 Remove the shell carefully if required.

4 Fried eggs (oeufs frits)

Allow 1 or 2 eggs per portion.


1 Melt a little fat in a frying pan. Add the eggs.
2 Cook gently until lightly set. Serve on a plate or
flat dish.

Professional tip
To prepare an excellent fried egg, it is essential to use
a fresh high-quality egg, to maintain a controlled low
heat and to use a high-quality fat (butter or oil, such as
sunflower oil).

Health and safety


Lightly cooked eggs do not reach high enough
temperatures to kill all bacteria that may be present.
Do not serve lightly cooked eggs to people in high-risk
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre groups: very young children, elderly people, pregnant
536 kJ 128 kcal 31.0 g 9.8 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 7.6 g 0.0 g women or people who are ill.
Fried in sunflower oil.

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5 Scrambled eggs (oeufs brouillés)

1 Break the eggs in a basin, add milk (if using),


lightly season with salt and pepper and
thoroughly mix with a whisk.
2 Melt half the butter in a thick-bottomed pan, add
the eggs and cook over a gentle heat, stirring
continuously until the eggs are lightly cooked.
3 Remove from the heat, correct the seasoning
and mix in the remaining butter. (A tablespoon of
cream may also be added at this point.)
Serve in individual egg dishes or on a slice of freshly
butter toast with the crust removed.

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Note

Eggs 6–8 15–20 If scrambled eggs are cooked too quickly or for too long
the protein will toughen, the eggs will discolour because
Milk (optional) 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
of the iron and sulphur compounds being released, and
Salt, pepper syneresis (separation of water from the eggs) will occur.
Butter or oil 50 g 125 g This means that they will be unpleasant to eat. The
heat from the pan will continue to cook the eggs after
it has been removed from the stove; therefore, the pan
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,105 kJ 263 kcal 22.9 g 8.7 g 0.5 g 0.5 g 13.9 g 0.0 g
should be removed from the heat just before the eggs
are cooked.
Using hard margarine instead of butter.

Variation Healthy eating tips


l Try to keep the butter used in cooking to a minimum
Scrambled eggs may be served with smoked salmon
and serve with unbuttered toast.
(as shown).
l Garnish with a grilled tomato.

6 Eggs Benedict

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Cooking medium (see note)
Large eggs 8 20
Butter, unsalted 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Plain English muffins, split and 4 10
toasted
Smoked bacon or sweet cure 12 slices 30 slices
bacon, cooked
Hollandaise sauce 200 g 500 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3910 kJ 943 kcal 77.0 g 37.8 g 24.8 g 2.2 g 39.2 g 1.4 g 2.1 g

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1 Bring the cooking medium to a slight simmer. 6 Reheat the bacon and place on top of the
2 Crack an egg into a cup and carefully slide it into muffins, then top with the drained eggs.
the hot poaching liquid. Quickly repeat with all the 7 To finish, lightly spoon over a generous helping of
eggs. warm hollandaise sauce and serve immediately,
3 Poach the eggs for 3 minutes, turning them or serve the hollandaise separately.
occasionally with a spoon, until the whites are
firm. Note

4 Using a slotted spoon, remove the eggs and The cooking bath must be deep and must have a
transfer to a kitchen towel. Lightly dab the eggs minimum of 15 per cent distilled or white wine vinegar
added.
with the towel to remove any excess water.
5 While the eggs are poaching, butter the muffins
and place two halves on each plate.

7 Eggs en cocotte

1 Butter the appropriate number of egg cocottes.


2 Break an egg carefully into each and season.
3 Place the cocottes in a sauté pan containing 1 cm
water.
4 Cover with a tight-fitting lid, place on a fierce heat
so that the water boils rapidly.
5 Cook for 2–3 minutes until the eggs are lightly set,
then serve.

Variation
l Half a minute before the cooking is completed, add 1
tsp of cream to each egg and complete the cooking.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions l When cooked, add 1 tsp of jus-lié to each egg.
l Place diced cooked chicken, mixed with cream, in the
Butter 25 g 60 g
bottom of the cocottes; break the eggs on top of the
Eggs 4 10 chicken and cook.
Salt, pepper l As above, using tomato concassé in place of chicken.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


534 kJ 127 kcal 11.2 g 5.2 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 6.8 g 0.0 g

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8 Eggs sur le plat

Allow 1 or 2 eggs per portion.


1 Take a china sur le plat dish. Add a teaspoon of
olive oil or butter. Heat it on the side of the stove,
until it is moderately hot.
2 Break in 1 or 2 eggs. Allow them to set on the
stove.
3 Transfer to the oven for 2–4 minutes to finish
cooking.

Note
A sur le plat dish is a shallow porcelain dish used for
cooking and serving eggs.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
875 kJ 211 kcal 16.9 g 6.3 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 14.8 g 0.0 g 0.2 g

Using butter and two eggs.

9 Scotch eggs

1 Place the eggs, still in their shells, in a pan of


water.
2 Place over a high heat and bring to the boil, then
reduce the heat to simmer for approximately
9 minutes.
3 Drain and refresh the eggs under cold running
water, then peel.
4 Mix the sausage meat with the thyme, parsley
and spring onion in a bowl, season well with salt
and freshly ground black pepper.
5 Divide the sausage meat mixture into four and
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions flatten each out on a clean surface into ovals
Eggs 4 10 about 12 cm long and 8 cm at the widest point.
Pork sausage meat 275 g 700 g 6 Roll the boiled egg in the seasoned flour.
Fresh thyme leaves 1 tsp 2½ tsp 7 Place each egg on to a sausage meat oval, then
Fresh parsley, chopped 1 tsp 2½ tsp wrap the sausage meat around the egg, making
sure the coating is smooth and completely covers
Spring onion, very finely chopped 1 2½
the egg.
Plain flour, seasoned 125 g 300 g
8 Dip each meat-coated egg in the beaten egg,
Egg, beaten 1 2½
covering the entire surface area.
Breadcrumbs 250 g 625 g
9 Roll in the breadcrumbs to coat completely.
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
10 Heat the oil in a deep heavy-bottomed pan, to
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
180 °C.
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11 Carefully place each Scotch egg into the hot


Variation
oil and deep fry for 6–8 minutes, until golden
and crisp and the sausage meat is completely For a vegetarian version of the traditional pork Scotch
egg, follow the same method as above, replacing the
cooked.
sausage meat with 350 g of dry mashed potato.
12 Carefully remove from the oil with a slotted spoon
A fish version can be made. Follow the same method as
and drain on kitchen paper. above, using 300 g fish mousse (this works best using
To serve, cut the egg in half and season slightly with salmon) instead of sausage meat.
rock salt. Scotch eggs can be served hot, warm or
cold.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2906 kJ 692 kcal 30.9 g 8.5 g 80.2 g 4.7 g 28.2 g 2.0 g 1.2 g

1 Flatten out an oval of the sausage 2 Flour the egg and wrap the meat 3 Dip in flour, then beaten egg.
meat mixture. around it until it is completely
covered.

4 Roll the egg in the breadcrumbs. 5 The egg should be completely


coated in breadcrumbs, ready for
frying.

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10 Omelette (omelette nature)

1 Break the eggs into a basin, season lightly with


salt and pepper.
2 Beat well with a fork, or whisk until the yolks and
whites are thoroughly combined and no streaks of
white can be seen.
3 Heat the omelette pan; wipe thoroughly clean
with a dry cloth.
4 Add the butter; heat until foaming but not brown.
5 Add the eggs and cook quickly, moving the
mixture continuously with a fork until lightly set;
remove from the heat.
6 Half fold the mixture over at right angles to the
handle.
Ingredient 1 portion 7 Tap the bottom of the pan to bring up the edge of
Eggs 2–3 the omelette.
Salt, pepper 8 With care, tilt the pan completely over so as to
allow the omelette to fall into the centre of the dish
Butter or oil 10 g
or plate.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre 9 Neaten the shape if necessary and serve
990 kJ 236 kcal 20.2 g 9.1 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 13.6 g 0.0 g immediately.

1 Whisk the eggs until the yolks and 2 Move the mixture continuously 3 Carefully tip the omelette out of
whites are combined. while it cooks. the pan.

Variation Healthy eating tips


l Use salt sparingly and serve with plenty of starchy
Variations to omelettes can easily be made by adding
carbohydrate and vegetables or salad.
the ingredient that the guest or dish may require. For
example:
l fine herbs (chopped parsley, chervil and chives)
l mushroom (cooked, sliced, wild or cultivated) Video: making
l cheese (25 g grated cheese added before folding) an omelette
l tomato (incision made down centre of cooked http://bit.ly/
omelette, filled with hot tomato concassé; served with 1MxDy9I
tomato sauce)
l bacon (grill and then julienne into small strips and fold
in at the end).

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11 Spanish omelette

Ingredient 1 portion
Eggs 2–3
Salt, pepper
Butter, or oil 10 g
Tomato concassé 50 g
Onions, cooked 100 g
Red pepper, diced 100 g
Parsley, chopped

1 Make up an omelette following recipe 10, steps 1


to 5, but including the tomato, onion, red pepper
and parsley with the eggs.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium 2 Sharply tap the pan on the stove to loosen the
1,726 kJ 416 kcal 30.9 g 11.2 g 10.9 g 8.2 g 24.6 g 2.5 g 0.8 g omelette and toss it over as for a pancake.
This omelette is cooked and served flat. Many other flat
omelettes can be served with a variety of ingredients.

When the butter is foaming, add the egg mixture The omelette is tipped out flat

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12 Feta, mint, lentil and pistachio omelette

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions For the filling:


Vegetable oil 4 tbsp 10 tbsp 1 Heat the oil in a pan. Add the lentils and the
sorrel, season with salt and pepper. Stir until the
Brown lentils, cooked 400 g 1 kg
sorrel is wilted.
Sorrel 20 leaves 50 leaves
approximately 2 Remove from the heat; add the feta cheese, mint
Seasoning and pistachio nuts.
Feta cheese, crumbled 50 g 125 g For the omelette:
Fresh mint, chopped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp 1 Beat the eggs well, add a teaspoon of water or
Pistachio nuts, toasted 2 tbsp 5 tbsp cream to every three eggs.
Eggs 12 30 2 Heat sufficient oil or butter in an omelette pan and
proceed to make the omelettes.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium 3 When nearly cooked through, tilt the omelette pan
2007 kJ 481 kcal 32.8 g 8.1 g 17.5 g 0.8 g 30.3 g 5.4 g 0.4 g
and start to fold the omelette.
4 Add the filling and continue to finish folding the
omelette.
Serve on plates garnished with mint leaves and wedges
of lemon or lime.

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7 Rice, pulses and grains
This chapter is relevant to the following units: ➜ Prepare, cook and finish basic pulse
➜ Prepare, cook and finish basic rice dishes. dishes.
➜ Prepare, cook and finish basic grain dishes.

Recipes included in this chapter Pulses


7 Bean goulash 128
No. Recipe Page
8 Mexican bean pot 129
Rice
Grains
1 Plain boiled rice 124
9 Crisp polenta and roasted Mediterranean 130
2 Steamed rice 124 vegetables
3 Braised or pilaff rice 125 10 Polenta and lentil cakes with roasted 131
4 Braised rice with mushrooms (riz pilaff aux 126 vegetables and cucumber and yoghurt sauce
champignons) 11 Couscous with meat and vegetables 132
5 Risotto with Parmesan (risotto con Parmigiano) 126 12 Couscous fritters with feta (amuse-bouche) 133
6 Indian-style rice (pilau) 127

Rice Rice varieties


Rice is one of the world’s most important crops: it is the There are around 250 different varieties of rice. The main
main food crop for about half the world’s population. A hot, ones are described below.
wet atmosphere is required for the cultivation of rice, and l Long-grain: a narrow, pointed grain that has had the
it is grown chiefly in India, Southeast Asia, South America, full bran and most of the germ removed so that it is less
Italy and the southern states of the USA. In order to grow, it fibrous than brown rice. Because of its firm structure,
needs more water than any other cereal crop. which helps to keep the grains separate when cooked,
it is suitable for plain boiling and savoury dishes such as
Rice is used in a variety of dishes, both starters and main
kedgeree and curry.
courses.
l Short-grain: a short, rounded grain with a soft texture,
suitable for sweet dishes and risotto.
l Round: rice which has an even, round grain.
Endosperm kernel l Brown grain: any rice that has had the outer covering
removed, but retains its bran and, as a result, is more
nutritious and contains more fibre. It takes longer to
Bran layers cook than long-grain rice. The nutty flavour of brown
rice lends itself to some recipes but does not substitute
well in traditional dishes such as paella, risotto or
puddings.
Many other types of rice are now widely available, which
can add different colours and textures to dishes. Some of
these are described below.
l Arborio: an Italian short-grain rice. It is used in risottos
because it can absorb a good deal of cooking liquid
Husk without becoming too soft.
Germ l Basmati: a narrow long-grain rice with a distinctive
flavour, suitable for serving with Indian dishes. Basmati
rice should be soaked before being cooked to remove
The structure of a grain of rice excess starch.
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l Wholegrain rice: the whole unprocessed grain of the


rice.
Quality points to look for in rice
l No split grains.
l Wild rice: this is actually an aquatic grass, not a rice.
l Good colour.
l Easy-cook rice: traditional rice is milled direct from
l Free from infestation, moisture and foreign bodies.
the field; this rice is steamed under pressure before
it is milled, which hardens the grain and reduces the
possibility of overcooking. The raw rice is golden in Preparing and cooking rice
colour and turns white during cooking. Most rice purchased today does not require washing.
l Aromatic rice: special rice with a distinct flavour and However, the washing and soaking of rice removes any
aroma. Its quality and flavour can differ from one year to excess starch, which tends to cloud the cooking medium.
the next based on the harvest and climate change. Washing impure rice removes debris, dirt and impurities.
l Jasmine rice: this aromatic rice originates from
Thailand; it is soft and sticky when cooked and is Rice grains are porous and absorb water easily. Rice should
sometimes known as sticky rice. be slightly undercooked (to the bite), known professionally
as al denté, unless if the rice is being moulded.
Professional tip When boiling rice, cook in a large quantity of water and
Many chefs prefer to use jasmine rice when making sushi drain well. Often the rice is refreshed in cold running water
as it sticks together and therefore is easier to shape. or ice water then drained and stored in the refrigerator.
However, it is not advisable to reheat rice due to the risk of
l American aromatic rice: this type of aromatic rice is food poisoning with Bacillus cereus.
now becoming available in several varieties. Rice introduces texture, flavour and carbohydrate content
l Japonica rice: this rice is grown in California and to dishes. The resulting texture and flavour depends on
available as red, brown and black rice. It is commonly the cooking method and temperature used. The following
used in Japanese culinary work and Caribbean cuisine. cooking methods can be used when cooking rice dishes:
When cooked it is moist, sticky and firm. l boiling
Other rice products include: l steaming
l Rice paper: edible paper made from milled rice, used l frying
in pastry work for nougat and macaroons, etc. l stewing
l Rice wine: made from fermented wine; sake is the l braising
most famous rice wine and is drunk extensively in l microwaving
Japan. Mirin is a sweet rice wine used in rice dishes and l baking.
culinary work. Shaoxing is a Chinese rice wine. Rice absorbs liquid easily. Use the information in Table 7.1
l Rice cakes: rice cakes are best known in Japan and the as a guide to liquid absorption to achieve the exact texture
countries of the Pacific Rim, where rice production is and overall result required.
the economic staple and the grain forms the basis for
many meals and foods. Table 7.1 Liquid to rice proportions
l Rice noodles: these are made from rice flour. They Cooking method Liquid to rice proportion
come in a range of shapes and sizes and styles similar Boiling 3:1 or 4:1
to pasta shapes. They are made by blending rice flour Pilaff (braised) 2:1
and water, rolling out the mixture, cutting or extruding
Risotto 3:1
it. The noodles are then usually dried. Fresh noodles
are often cut into wide ribbons that are used in soups Paella 4:1
and stir fries. Sometimes ingredients such as mung Sushi 1:5
bean flour may be added to rice noodles to change Wild rice 4:1
their consistency and appearance. The noodles cook up
slightly transparent, and tend to be chewy and slightly As the grains cook, starch is released and naturally thickens
resilient. Examples include laksa noodles, rice fluke the liquid. This is particularly important when making
noodles, rice sticks, rice vermicelli and rice river noodles. risotto and sushi.

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Cooking risotto Types of pulses


When cooking risotto (for example, see recipe 5), arborio
is the easiest rice to find, but vialone and carnaroli are
Beans
other Italian types that can be used. Do not attempt to l Aduki: small, round, deep red, shiny, nutty and sweet
use pudding, patna or Japanese rice, despite their similar (they are used in Japanese confectionery).
appearance to Italian rice. l Black: glistening black skins, creamy flesh.
l Black-eyed: small white beans with a savoury, creamy
A perfect risotto is not a pile of stodgy rice on a plate, flavour, and with a black ‘scar’ where they were joined
sitting like a glutinous mound, nor is it a soupy liquid mess to the pod. Used a lot in American and African cooking,
lying flat on the plate. It should be just about moundable, they are the essential ingredient in the traditional
fighting to hold its little peaks from collapsing back into the southern-style dish ‘Hoppin John’ – a mixture of black-
rest. All the liquid should be combined with the rice to give eyed beans, bacon and white rice traditionally eaten on
a creamy-type consistency. Finish with butter and cream. New Year’s Day.
l Broad: also known as fava beans; strongly flavoured.
Storage l Borlotti: Italian beans with a mild, bittersweet flavour;
they’re used in regional stews and often mixed
Uncooked rice can be stored on the shelf in a tightly sealed
with rice, and are particularly good in soups such as
container. The shelf life of brown rice is shorter than that
minestrone and pasta e fagioli.
of white rice (the bran layers contain oil that can become
l Butter: also known as lima beans, available large or
rancid). Refrigerator storage is recommended for longer
small.
shelf life. Cooked rice can be refrigerated for up to seven
l Cannellini: Italian haricot, slightly larger than the
days or stored in the freezer for six months.
English.
Once cooked, keep rice hot (above 65 °C for no longer than l Dutch brown: light brown in colour.
two hours) or cool it quickly (within 90 minutes) and keep l Flageolet: pale green, kidney-shaped with a delicate
it cool, below 5 °C. If this is not done, the spores of Bacillus flavour.
cereus (a bacterium found in the soil) may revert to bacteria l Ful mesdames: also known as Egyptian brown beans;
and multiply in the cooked rice. small, brown and knobbly, known as the field bean in
the UK.
Pulses l Haricot: white, smooth and oval; used for baked beans.
l Mung: small and olive green in colour; good flavour;
Pulses are one of the most versatile commodities. They can
available split, whole and skinless. Widely used sprouted
be used extensively in a wide range of dishes. Imaginative
for their shoots.
and experimental use of different herbs, spices, flavourings
l Pinto: the original ingredient of Mexican refried beans;
and vegetables can give individual variation to pulse recipes.
an orange-pink bean with rust-coloured specks that
Pulses are defined as annual leguminous crops, which yield grows freely across South America and throughout
from 1 to 12 grains or seeds of variable size, shape and colour the American southwest; the bean is creamy-white in
within a pod. The term ‘pulse’ is reserved for crops harvested colour with a fluffy texture when cooked, and is good in
solely for the dry grain. This therefore excludes green beans soups, salads and rich stews.
and green peas, which are considered vegetable crops. Also l Red kidney: normally dark red-brown, this kidney-
excluded are crops that are grown mainly for oil extraction shaped bean holds its shape and colour and is therefore
(oil seeds such as soybeans and peanuts), and crops that are great in mixed bean salads and stews, including the
used exclusively for sowing (for example clovers and alfalfa). traditional chilli con carne.
l Soissons: finest haricot beans.
All pulses, except for soybeans, are very similar in nutritional
l Soy: soybeans are very high in nutrients, especially
content. They are rich in protein, carbohydrate and fibre, and
protein, and they contain all the essential amino acids.
low in fat, which is mostly of the unsaturated kind. They are
They are processed into many forms: soy flour, TVP
also an important source of some B vitamins and contain
(meat substitute), tofu (curd), oils, margarine, soy milk
iron. Fresh pulses contain vitamin C, but this declines after
and soy sauce.
harvesting and virtually all is lost from dried pulses. They
are 20 to 25 per cent protein, which is double that found in
wheat and three times that found in rice.

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Peas Always discard the soaking water, rinse the pulses and cook
l Blue: also known as marrowfat peas; pleasant flavour, them in fresh water without any salt (salt toughens the
floury texture, retain shape when cooked. skins and makes for longer cooking). Changing the water
l Chickpeas: shaped like hazelnuts, they have a tasty will also help to reduce the flatulence some people suffer
nutty flavour when cooked. Chickpeas are used all over after eating pulses. Adding a pinch of aniseed, caraway, dill
the world in dishes such as the Indian kabli chana or or fennel seeds is also supposed to help with this.
Spanish caldo gallego. Chickpeas are a key ingredient of Dried kidney beans need to be cooked carefully – soak them
hummus – a traditional Greek dip of cooked chickpeas, for at least eight hours. After soaking, drain and rinse them,
tahini (sesame seed paste), oil and garlic. They can be discarding the soaking water. Put them into a pan with cold
bought and soaked from dried, but canned chickpeas water to cover and bring to the boil – the beans must be
do just as well for most recipes. boiled for 10 minutes to destroy toxins; after this, simmer
l Split green: a sweeter variety than the blue pea; cook until cooked (approximately 45–60 minutes). The beans
to a purée easily. should have an even, creamy texture throughout – if the
l Split yellow: cook to a purée easily. centre is still hard and white, they require longer cooking.
Both yellow and green split peas are used for vegetable Soybeans should be soaked for at least 12 hours, drained
purées and soups. and rinsed then covered with fresh water and brought to
the boil. Soybeans should be boiled for the first hour of
Lentils cooking; they can then be simmered for the remaining two
Lentils, varying in size and colour, can form a nutritious basis to three hours that it takes to cook them.
for a meal. Larger brown or green lentils retain their shape
during cooking and are particularly good in soups. Red and Health and safety
yellow lentils cook down well, can be puréed, and are used It is not safe to eat raw or undercooked kidney beans or
a great deal in Indian cooking (such as in a spicy dhal). Tiny soybeans.
green puy lentils have a distinctive flavour and also keep
their shape and colour when cooked. When preparing pulses and lentils, cook them in sparkling
l Orange: several types, which vary in size and shade, bottled water. The sparkling motion helps ensure even
and may be sold whole or split. cooking through momentum; the reason for using bottled
l Green or continental: retain shape after cooking, water over tap water is the reduced calcium. In hard-water
available in small or large varieties. areas there is a lot of calcium, which blocks the pores of
l Yellow: of Asian origin, often used as a dhal pulses, causing beans to ‘boil in their jackets’ and burst,
accompaniment to curry dishes. making the pulses undesirable. Bottled water allows the
l Red: purée easily, used for soups and stews, etc. fluid to pass through the tiny pores and cook evenly.
l Indian brown: red lentils from which the seed coat has
not been removed; they purée easily.
l Puy: dark French lentils, which vary in size; they retain Storage
their shape when cooked and are considered the best One advantage of dried pulses is that they store very well
of their type. for long periods if kept in a dry, airtight container away from
l Dhal: the Hindi word for dried peas and beans; also the light. However, it is best to eat them as fresh as possible.
name of a spicy lentil dish. Pulses toughen on storage and older ones will take longer
to cook.
l Store fresh pulses in a refrigerator at a temperature
Preparing and cooking pulses below 5 °C.
Allow about 55 g dry weight per person – once soaked and l Store frozen pulses in a freezer at a temperature below
cooked they will at least double in weight. −18 °C.
Most dried pulses need soaking for several hours before l Store dried pulses in clean airtight containers off the
they can be cooked; exceptions are all lentils, green and floor in the dry store.
yellow split peas, black-eyed beans and mung beans. l Unpack tinned pulses and check that the tins are sound
Soaking times vary from 4 to 12 hours. It is usually most and undamaged.
convenient to soak pulses overnight. l When storing cooked pulses, keep them covered and in
a refrigerator at a temperature below 5 °C.
l To prevent the risk of cross-contamination, store cooked
pulses away from any raw foods.
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Grains Types of grain


Cereals are important crops and are the oldest farmed Barley
agricultural products. Grain is the name given to the edible Barley grows in a wider variety of climatic conditions than
fruit of cereals. In many countries grains are the main staple any other cereal. Usually found in the shops as whole or
food, as they are inexpensive and readily available. Cereals pot barley (or polished pearl barley) you can also buy
are used in a range of dishes and food products, including barley flakes or kernels. It can be cooked on its own
breads, soups and stews. (one part grain to three parts water for 45–60 minutes) as
Grains are a rich source of carbohydrate and supply most of an alternative to rice, pasta or potatoes, or added to stews.
their food energy as starch. They are also a significant source Malt extract is made from sprouted barley grains.
of protein. Wholegrain cereals are good sources of dietary Barley must have its fibrous hull removed before it is eaten
fibre, essential fatty acids and other important nutrients. (hulled barley). Hulled barley still has its bran and germ and
The whole grain is made up of three parts: the bran, the is considered to be a whole grain, making it a popular health
endosperm and the germ: food. Pearl barley is hulled barley that has been processed
l The bran is the outer layers of the cereal. Bran contains further to remove the bran.
a high amount of dietary fibre and some B vitamins (B1,
thiamine, and B3, niacin). It also contains the minerals zinc, Buckwheat
copper and iron, as well as protein and other chemicals. When roasted, the seeds of buckwheat are dark reddish-
l The endosperm is the middle layer and is the largest brown. It can be cooked (one part grain to two parts water
section of the grain. It is the main energy supply and is for 6 minutes, leave to stand for 6 minutes) and served like
rich in carbohydrates, protein and B vitamins. rice, or it can be added to stews and casseroles. Buckwheat
l The germ is the smallest part of the grain. As the name flour can be added to cakes, muffins and pancakes, where
suggests, it develops into the new plant. It is rich in B it imparts a distinctive flavour. Soba noodles, made from
vitamins, minerals, vitamin E and other chemicals. buckwheat, are an essential ingredient in Japanese cooking.
Buckwheat is gluten free.
bran

Corn/maize
Fresh corn – available in the form of sweetcorn and corn on
endosperm the cob – is eaten as a vegetable. The dried grain is most
often eaten as cornflakes or popcorn. The flour made from
corn (cornmeal) is used to make Italian polenta, and can be
added to soups, pancakes and muffins. Cook polenta (one
germ part grain to three parts water, for 15–20 minutes), stirring
carefully to avoid lumps. Use it like mashed potato: it is quite
bland, so try stirring in tasty ingredients such as Gorgonzola

From left to right: barley, millet and buckwheat


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or Parmesan and fresh herbs, or press it when cold, cut into acid) – calcium, iron, potassium, magnesium and zinc. Millets
slices, brush with garlicky olive oil and grill. You can also get contain no gluten, so they cannot rise to make bread. When
ready-made polenta. Tortillas are made from maize meal, combined with wheat or xanthan gum (for those who have
as are quite a lot of snack foods. Don’t confuse cornmeal coeliac disease), though, they can be used to make raised
with refined corn starch/flour, used for thickening. Corn bread. Alone, they are suited to flatbread.
is gluten free.
Millet is an alternative to rice but the tiny grains need to be
cracked before they will absorb water easily. Before boiling,
Oats sauté them with a little vegetable oil for 2–3 minutes until
There are various grades of oatmeal, including rolled oats some are seen to crack, then add water carefully (one part
and jumbo oat flakes. All forms can be used to make grain to three parts water). Bring to the boil and simmer for
porridge, combined with nuts to make a nut roast, or added 15–20 minutes until fluffy. Millet flakes can be made into
to stews. Oatmeal is low in gluten so can’t be used to make porridge or added to muesli. Millet flour is available, and it
bread, but can be mixed with wheat flour to add flavour is sometimes also made into pasta.
and texture to bread, muffins and pancakes. Oatmeal
contains some oils and can become rancid, so watch the Wheat
best-before date.
This is the most familiar cereal in the UK today, used for bread,
Oatmeal is created by grinding oats into a coarse powder; cakes, biscuits, pastry, breakfast cereals and pasta. Wheat
various grades are available depending on the thoroughness grains can be eaten whole (cook one part grain to three
of the grinding (including coarse, pinhead and fine). The parts water for 40–60 minutes) and have a satisfying, chewy
main uses of oats are: texture. Cracked or kibbled wheat is the dried whole
l as an ingredient in baking grains cut by steel blades. Bulgar wheat is parboiled before
l in the manufacture of bannocks or oatcakes cracking, has a light texture and only needs rehydrating
l as a stuffing for poultry by soaking in boiling water or stock. Semolina is a grainy
l as a coating for some cheeses yellow flour ground from durum or hard wheat, and is the
l as an ingredient of black pudding main ingredient of dried Italian pasta. Couscous is made
l for making traditional porridge. from semolina grains that have been rolled, dampened and
coated with finer wheat flour. Soak in two parts of water/
Millet stock to rehydrate; traditionally, it is steamed after soaking.
Millet is a group of small-seeded cereal crops or grains Strong wheat flour (with a high gluten content) is required
widely grown around the world for food and fodder. The for yeasted breadmaking. Plain flour is used for general
main millet varieties are: cooking including cakes and pastry. Wheat flakes can be
l pearl millet used for porridge, muesli and flapjacks.
l foxtail millet
l proso millet (also known as common millet, broom corn Quinoa
millet, hog millet or white millet) Quinoa is an ancient crop that fed the South American
l finger millet. Aztecs for thousands of years, and has recently been
cultivated in the UK. It’s a seed that is high in protein,
Coeliac patients can replace certain cereal grains (such as
making it useful for vegetarians.
wheat) in their diets by consuming millets in various forms,
including breakfast cereals. The small, round grains look similar to millet but are pale
brown in colour. The taste is mild and the texture firm and
In western India, millet flour (called ‘bajari’ in Marathi) has
slightly chewy. It can be cooked like millet and absorbs twice
been commonly used with ‘jowar’ (sorghum) flour for
its volume in liquid. Cook for 15 minutes (one part grain to
hundreds of years to make the local staple flatbread, ‘bhakri’.
three parts water); it’s ready when all the grains have turned
Millet can often be used in place of buckwheat, rice or from white to transparent, and the spiral-like germ has
quinoa. separated. Use in place of more common cereals or pasta,
The protein content in millet is very close to that of wheat; or in risottos, pilaff and vegetable stuffings. It may be used
both provide about 11 per cent protein by weight. Millets in place of rice and is served in salads and some stuffings.
are rich in B vitamins – especially B3 (niacin), B6 and B9 (folic

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Rye Grains can vary in cooking time depending on the age of


Rye is the only cereal (apart from wheat and barley) that the grain. Grains are usually boiled, or steamed, but may
has enough gluten to make a yeasted loaf. However, with be braised or stewed. As the grain is heated, it absorbs the
less gluten than wheat, rye flour makes a denser, richer- water, swells and bursts, cooking at between 60 °C and
flavoured bread. It’s more usual to mix rye flour with wheat 70 °C. Grains such as couscous, bulgar wheat and millet
flour. Rye grains should be cooked using one part grain to only usually require boiling water to be poured on to them,
three parts water for 45–60 minutes. Kibbled rye is often stirred and cooled. Cooking softens the grains. Whole grains
added to granary-type loaves. Rye grains can be added to take longer to cook than grains that have been processed.
stews, and rye flakes are good in muesli. Grains may be cooked in water or soaked in wine or fruit
juice; they may also be steamed. Consider too the trend of
Spelt baking porridge oats and oat flakes, polenta and cornmeal,
Originating in the Middle East, Spelt is closely related to soaked or parboiled, poured into a lined baking sheet,
common wheat and has been popular for decades in usually on a silicone mat, and baked in the oven. As the
eastern Europe. It has an intense nutty, wheaty flavour. grains are baked the water will cook the product, evaporate
The flour is excellent for breadmaking and spelt pasta is and the result is a dry baked grain.
becoming more widely available.
Storage
Quality points to look for in Cereals are best stored in airtight containers in a cool, dark,
grains dry place. Whole grains can be stored for up to two years;
flaked or cracked grains and flours should be used within
Grains should always look and smell faintly sweet or have
two to three months of purchase.
no aroma at all. If you detect a musty or oily scent, the grains
have passed their peak and should not be purchased. Whole grains must be stored more carefully than refined
grains, since the healthy oils found largely in the germ of
Buy grains that are well packaged and sealed tightly. Check
the whole grain can be negatively affected by heat, light
the use-by date.
and moisture. Because each grain has a different fat content,
their shelf life varies.
Preparing and cooking grains Intact grains will keep for up to six months in a cool dry
Grains should first be washed under cold water in a colander store, or up to one year in a freezer.
to remove any dust or foreign bodies. Look for any unusual
infestation such as insects. The dry grain does not need to Wholegrain flours and meals spoil more quickly than intact
be soaked. grains because their protective bran layer has been broken
up and air can reach all parts of the grain, causing oxidation.
If stored properly they will keep for one to three months in a
cool, dry store, or up to two to six months in a freezer.

Test yourself
1 State three quality points to look for when buying rice.
2 How much liquid to rice would you use when cooking risotto?
3 Describe how to store uncooked rice.
4 Describe how you would prepare dried chickpeas before cooking.
5 Describe how to store dried pulses.
6 Describe the preparation and cooking process for red kidney beans.
7 List three quality points to look for when buying grains.
8 State two foods for which barley can be used as an alternative.
9 Describe how to cook polenta by boiling.
10 What is an appropriate cooking method for rye?

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Rice recipes

1 Plain boiled rice

Allow 100 g of rice (dry weight) for 4 portions.


1 Pick and wash the long-grain rice. Add to plenty
of boiling salted water.
2 Stir to the boil and simmer gently until tender
(approximately 12–15 minutes).
3 Pour into a sieve and rinse well under cold
running water, then boiling water. Drain and leave
in the sieve, placed over a bowl and covered with
a cloth.
4 Place on a tray in the hotplate and keep hot.
5 Serve separately in a vegetable dish.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
37 kJ 90 kcal 0.1 g 0.0 g 20.0 g 0.0 g 1.9 g 0.0 g

2 Steamed rice

Allow 100 g of rice (dry weight) for 4 portions.


1 Place the washed rice into a saucepan and add
water until the water level is 2.5 cm above the rice.
2 Bring to the boil over a fierce heat until most of
the water has evaporated.
3 Turn the heat down as low as possible, cover
the pan with a lid and allow the rice to complete
cooking in the steam.
4 Once cooked, the rice should be allowed to stand
in the covered steamer for 10 minutes.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1277 kJ 305 kcal 1.4 g 0.0 g 63.7 g 0.0 g 7.1 g 0.0 g

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3 Braised or pilaff rice

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Butter or oil 50 g 125 g
Onion, chopped 25 g 60 g
Rice, long grain, white or brown 100 g 250 g
White stock (preferably chicken) 200 ml 500 ml
Salt, mill pepper

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


774 kJ 184 kcal 10.4 g 4.5 g 22.1 g 0.3 g 1.9 g 0.6 g

Using white rice and hard margarine. Using brown rice and
hard margarine, 1 portion provides: 769 kJ/183 kcal energy,
10.9 g fat, 4.6 g saturated fat, 20.7 g carbohydrates, 0.7 g sugar,
1.9 g protein and 1.0 g fibre.

1 Place half the butter or oil into a small sauteuse. 6 Place in a hot oven (230–250 °C) for
Add the onion. approximately 15 minutes, until cooked.
2 Cook gently without colouring for 2–3 minutes. 7 Remove immediately into a cool sauteuse.
Add the rice. 8 Carefully mix in the remaining butter or oil with a
3 Cook gently without colouring for 2–3 minutes. two-pronged fork.
4 Add twice the amount of stock to rice. 9 Correct the seasoning and serve.
5 Season, cover with buttered paper, bring to the boil.

Cook the rice gently without colouring Add the stock Cover with buttered paper, with a small hole
at the centre

Note Professional tip


Cook the rice for the exact time specified in the recipe.
It is usual to use long-grain rice for pilaff because the
If it cooks for longer, it will be overcooked and the grains
grains are firm and there is less likelihood of them
will not separate.
breaking up and becoming mushy. During cooking, the
long-grain rice absorbs more liquid, loses less starch
and retains its shape as it swells; short or medium grains
may split at the ends and become less distinct in outline. Healthy eating tips
l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or olive). Lightly oil
the pan and drain off any excess after the frying is
Variation complete.
l Keep the added salt to a minimum.
Pilaff may also be infused with herbs and spices such as
cardamom.

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4 Braised rice with mushrooms 


(riz pilaff aux champignons)

Ingredients are as for braised or pilaff rice (recipe 3)


with the addition of 50–100 g well-washed, sliced
button mushrooms (or wild mushrooms).
1 Place 25 g butter in a small sauteuse. Add the
onion.
2 Cook gently without colour for 2–3 minutes.
3 Add the rice and button mushrooms.
4 Complete as for braised or pilaff rice (recipe 3)
from step 4.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
849 kJ 203 kcal 11.7 g 6.9 g 22.0 g 0.5 g 3.5 g 0.9 g 0.2 g

Using 75 g of button mushrooms.

5 Risotto with Parmesan (risotto con Parmigiano)

1 Bring the stock to a simmer, next to where you


will cook the risotto. Take a wide, heavy-bottomed
pan or casserole, put half the butter in over a
medium heat and melt.
2 Add the onion and sweat until it softens and
becomes slightly translucent.
3 Add the rice and stir with a heat-resistant spatula
until it is thoroughly coated in butter (about
2 minutes). Then take a soup ladle of hot stock
and pour it into the rice.
4 Continue to cook and stir until this liquid addition
is completely absorbed (about 3 minutes).
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
5 Repeat this procedure several times until the rice
Chicken stock 1.2 litres 3 litres
has swollen and is nearly tender. The rice should
Butter 80 g 200 g not be soft but neither should it be chalky. Taste
Onion, peeled and finely chopped ½ 1¼ and wait: if it is undercooked, it will leave a gritty,
Arborio rice 240 g 600 g chalky residue in your mouth.
Parmesan, freshly grated 75 g 180 g 6 Normally the rice is ready about 20 minutes after
Salt, pepper the first addition of stock.
7 Add the other half of the butter and half the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Parmesan off the heat. Stir these in, season and
2,598 kJ 621 kcal 36.2 g 14.1 g 49.9 g 4.2 g 23.0 g 0.3 g
cover. Leave to rest and swell a little more for
3 minutes. Serve immediately after this in soup
plates, with more Parmesan offered separately.
This is the classic risotto.

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Rice, pulses and grains 7

Healthy eating tips Variation


l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or olive), instead
Risotto variations include:
of butter, to sweat the onion. Lightly oil the pan and
l saffron or Milanese-style: soak ¼ teaspoon
drain off any excess after the frying is complete.
saffron in a little hot stock and mix into the risotto
l Additional salt is not necessary.
near the end of the cooking time; bone marrow is
l Serve with a large salad and tomato bread.
also sometimes added.
l seafood: add any one or a mixture of cooked
mussels, shrimp, prawns, etc., just before the rice is
Professional tip cooked; also use half fish stock, half chicken stock.
Add the stock slowly, to give the rice time to absorb the l mushroom: garnish with cooked mushrooms
liquid. l asparagus: garnish with freshly cooked asparagus
Stir regularly during cooking. heads.
Risotto may be served as an amuse-bouche (bite-sized
appetiser).

Video: making
risotto
http://bit.ly/
1vGih2Q

6 Indian-style rice (pilau)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Basmati rice 300 g 750 g
Ghee 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Bay leaves 2 5
Cloves 5 12
Green cardamom pods 5 12
Cassia bark (5 cm piece) 1 2
Fennel seeds 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Cumin seeds ½ tsp 1 tsp
Brown cardamom pods 1 2
Star anise 1 2
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,315 kJ 315 kcal 5.8 g 3.3 g 60.0 g 0.0 g .59 g 0.0 g Water, boiling 570 ml 1,425 ml

1 Wash and drain the rice. 6 Leave for 8 minutes – the water should have been
2 Heat the ghee in a large thick-based saucepan completely absorbed.
and stir fry the spices for 30 seconds. 7 Check the rice. If it is done, remove from the heat
3 Add the rice and very gently stir fry, being careful and gently fluff up with a fork.
not to breaking the grains of rice. 8 If the rice is still brittle in the middle, replace the
4 Add to the boiling water and stir around. lid and leave for a further 2 minutes, adding a little
more water if necessary.
5 Place a lid on top and turn down to the lowest
heat.

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Pulse recipes

7 Bean goulash

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Red kidney or haricot beans, dried 200 g 500 g
Sunflower oil 60 ml 150 ml
Onion, finely chopped 50 g 125 g
Clove of garlic, crushed 1 2–3
Paprika 25 g 60 g
Red peppers 2 5
Green pepper 1 2–3
Yellow pepper 1 2–3
Button mushrooms, sliced 200 g 500 g
Tomato purée 50 g 125 g
Vegetable stock 750 ml 2 litre
Bouquet garni 1 2
Seasoning
Small turned potatoes, cooked 8 20
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,728 kJ 411 kcal 17.9 g 2.7 g 50.0 g 7.3 g 17.3 g 18.5 g Parsley, chopped, to serve

1 Soak the beans for 24 hours in cold water. Drain, 5 Remove the bouquet garni. Add the drained
place into a saucepan. Cover with cold water, cooked beans, correct the seasoning and stir.
boil for at least 10 minutes and then simmer until 6 Garnish with potatoes (or gnocchi) and chopped
tender. parsley.
2 Heat the oil in a sauté pan, sweat the onion and 7 Serve wholegrain pilaff or wholemeal noodles
garlic without colour for 2–3 minutes; add the separately.
paprika and sweat for a further 2–3 minutes.
3 Add the peppers (cut in halves, with seeds Healthy eating tips
removed and cut into 1 cm dice). Add the button l Use less sunflower oil to sweat the onions.
l Add only a pinch of salt.
mushrooms; sweat for a further 2 minutes.
l Serve with rice or noodles and a green salad or mixed
4 Add the tomato purée, vegetable stock and vegetables.
bouquet garni. Bring to the boil and simmer until
the pepper and mushrooms are cooked.

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8 Mexican bean pot

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Soak the beans in cold water for 24 hours. Drain.
Place into a saucepan, cover with cold water,
Red kidney or haricot beans, dried 300 g 750 g
bring to the boil and simmer gently.
Onions, finely chopped 100 g 250 g
2 When three-quarters cooked, add all the other
Carrots, sliced 100 g 250 g
ingredients except the chopped chives.
Tomato, skinned, deseeded and diced 200 g 500 g
3 Continue to simmer until all is completely cooked.
Cloves of garlic, crushed and 2 5
chopped 4 Serve sprinkled with chopped chives.
Paprika 10 g 25 g
Healthy eating tips
Dried marjoram 3g 9g l No added salt is needed; there is plenty in the yeast
Small fresh chilli, finely chopped 1 2–3 extract.
l Serve with a selection of colourful vegetables.
Small red pepper, finely diced 1 2–3
Yeast extract 5g 12 g
Chives, chopped
Seasoning

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


672 kJ 161 kcal 1.2 g 0.2 g 27.0 g 4.6 g 12.3 g 14.0 g

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Grain recipes

9 Crisp polenta and roasted 


Mediterranean vegetables

To make the polenta:


1 Bring the water and the butter to the boil.
2 Season the water well and whisk in the polenta
flour.
3 Continue to whisk until very thick.
4 Remove from the heat and add the Parmesan,
egg yolk and crème fraiche.
5 Whisk until all incorporated; check the seasoning.
6 Set in a lined tray.
7 Once set, cut using a round cutter or cut into
squares.
8 Reserve until required.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions To make the roasted vegetables:
Polenta 1 Roughly chop the vegetables into large chunks.
Water 200 ml 500 ml Ensure the seeds are removed from the peppers.
Butter 30 g 75 g 2 Toss the cut vegetables in the oil and season well.
Polenta flour 65 g 160 g 3 Place the vegetables in an oven with the aromats
Parmesan, grated 25 g 60 g for 30 minutes at 180 °C.
Egg yolks 1 2 4 Remove from the oven and drain. Reserve until
Crème fraiche 110 g 275 g required.
Seasoning To serve:
Roasted vegetables 1 To serve the dish, shallow-fry the polenta in a
Red peppers 2 5 non-stick pan until golden on both sides.
Yellow peppers 2 5 2 Warm the roasted vegetables and place them in
Courgettes 2 5
the middle of the plate. Place the polenta on top.

Red onions 2 5
3 Finish with rocket salad and balsamic dressing.
Vegetable oil 200 ml 500 ml
Professional tip
Seasoning
Line the tray with cling film and silicone paper before
Clove of garlic 1 3 pouring in the polenta – this will stop it from sticking to
Thyme, sprigs 2 5 the tray when it sets.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3,267 kJ 790 kcal 71.4 g 18.9 g 28.6 g 14.0 g 10.1 g 6.6 g 0.1 g

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Rice, pulses and grains 7

10 Polenta and lentil cakes with roasted 


vegetables and cucumber and yoghurt sauce

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Puy lentils 250 g 625 g
Vegetable stock 250 ml 625 ml
Fine polenta 75 g 187 g
Parmesan cheese, grated 25 g 62 g
Egg, beaten 1 3
Salt and pepper
Leeks, finely chopped and blanched 75 g 187 g
Clove of garlic, crushed and finely 1 3
chopped
Olive oil 3 tbsp 8 tbsp
Sauce
Cucumber, peeled 250 g 625 g
Natural yoghurt 250 ml 625 ml
Mint, chopped ¼ tsp 1¼ tsp
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,898 kJ 452 kcal 15.2 g 4.1 g 55.6 g 7.9 g 25.2 g 4.3 g Chives, chopped 1 tsp 2½ tsp

1 Wash the lentils and cook in salted water for 7 Heat the olive oil in a suitable pan; gently fry the
about 25 minutes until tender but still firm. Drain cakes for about 3–4 minutes on each side until
well, refresh and drain again. Dry on a suitable heated through and well browned.
cloth. 8 To make the sauce, liquidise the peeled cucumber
2 Bring the vegetable stock to the boil, add the with the yoghurt, and finish with chopped mint
polenta and cook gently, stirring until thickened. and chives.
3 Add the Parmesan and beaten egg; season. 9 To serve, place a small amount of the sauce on to
4 Mix the lentils, polenta, leeks and garlic together. a plate and place the cakes on top. Garnish the
plate with freshly roasted vegetables.
5 Correct the seasoning, cool and shape into four
(or ten) round cakes.
Healthy eating tips
6 Place in the fridge and chill well for at least 1 hour. l No additional salt is needed.
l Use less olive oil to fry the cakes, and drain on
kitchen paper.

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11 Couscous with meat and vegetables

1 Soak the couscous in warm water for 10 minutes.


2 Fry the meat in the oil until browned and sealed.
Remove quickly.
3 Fry the onions and garlic, then remove and drain.
4 Place the meat, onions and garlic into a
saucepan, and add the celery, leeks, carrots and
chickpeas. Cover with water and season.
5 Add the ginger and saffron, if using; bring to the
boil and simmer for about 1 hour.
6 Drain the couscous, place in the top part of
the couscousier and steam for 30 minutes.
Alternatively, place the couscous in a metal
colander lined with muslin. Fit into the top of the
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions saucepan, making sure that the liquid from the
Couscous 200 g 500 g stew does not touch the steamer as the couscous
Lean stewing lamb 400 g 1 kg will become lumpy. Stir occasionally.
Stewing beef or chicken, cut for 200 g 500 g 7 Add the raisins and courgettes to the stew,
sauté followed by the tomatoes, chopped parsley and
Olive oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp tomato purée. Cook for a further 30 minutes.
Onion, finely chopped 50 g 125 g 8 Remove approx. 250 ml (625 ml) sauce from the
Clove of garlic, crushed and chopped 1 2–3 stew and stir enough cayenne pepper in to it to
Celery, sliced 100 g 250 g
make it strong and fiery. Finish with paprika.
Leek, sliced 100 g 250 g 9 To serve, pile the couscous into a suitable serving
dish, preferably earthenware, add knobs of butter
Carrot, diced (1 cm) 100 g 250 g
and work into the grains with a fork.
Chickpeas 25 g 60 g
10 Carefully arrange the meat and vegetables over
Ground ginger (optional) ¼ tsp ½ tsp
the couscous and pour the broth over. Serve the
Saffron (optional) ¼ tsp ½ tsp hot peppery sauce separately.
Raisins 50 g 125 g 11 Alternatively, the couscous, meat and vegetables,
Courgettes, diced 100 g 250 g broth and peppery sauce can be served in
Tomatoes, skinned, deseeded and 50 g 125 g separate bowls.
diced
Parsley, chopped Note
Tomato purée 50 g 125 g Pre-cooked couscous is also available.
Cayenne pepper
Paprika ½ tsp 1 tsp
Healthy eating tips
Butter 50 g 125 g l No additional salt is needed.
l Add only a small amount of fat to the couscous
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre before adding the meat and vegetables.
2,146 kJ 515 kcal 28.5 g 12.6 g 42.2 g 14.7 g 25.3 g 2.8 g l The fat content will be reduced if skinned chicken is
Using lamb and butter. used or less lamb/beef and more vegetables.

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12 Couscous fritters with feta (amuse bouche)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Place the couscous in a suitable bowl; pour in


the boiling stock and stir. Allow to stand until the
Couscous 80 g 200 g
couscous absorbs the stock.
Vegetable stock 100 ml 250 ml
2 Add the egg and yoghurt, mix well and season.
Beaten egg ½ 1¼
Fold in the feta cheese, tomatoes and spring
Natural yoghurt 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp onions.
Feta cheese, cut into 1 cm dice 40 g 100 g 3 Divide the mixture into the number of portions
Tomatoes, skinned, deseeded and 25 g 60 g and shape into small cakes.
cut into small dice
4 Shallow fry the fritters in vegetable oil on both
Spring onions, finely chopped 2 5
sides until golden brown.
Vegetable oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
5 Serve as an amuse bouche on a fresh tomato
sauce seasoned with chilli. Garnish each fritter
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
533 kJ 128 kcal 6.9 g 2.3 g 11.8 g 1.5 g 5.2 g 0.3 g 0.2 g with a suitable chutney, red onion, beetroot or fig.

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07 PracticalCookeryL2NVQs Chapter 7.indd 134 05/03/2015 15:36
8 Pasta and noodles
This chapter is relevant to the following units:
➜ Prepare, cook and finish basic pasta dishes.
➜ Prepare, cook and finish noodle dishes.

Recipes included in this chapter 7 Tagliatelle carbonara 145


8 Ravioli 145
No. Recipe Page
9 Ravioli of squash and spinach with wild 147
Pasta mushroom sauce
1 Fresh egg pasta dough 140
10 Ricotta and spinach cannelloni with tomato 148
2 Spaghetti with tomato sauce (spaghetti alla 141 and basil sauce
pomodoro)
11 Lasagne 150
3 Spaghetti bolognaise (spaghetti alla bolognese) 142
12 Vegetarian lasagne 152
4 Penne arrabiata 143 Gnocchi
5 Macaroni cheese 144 13 Potato gnocchi (gnocchi piemontese) 153
6 Spinach fettuccine with ham and cream 144 14 Parmesan gnocchi and tomato sauce 155
cheese (fettuccine verdi con salsa cremona)

Pasta Types of pasta


Pasta is made from durum wheat, which has a 15 per cent There are basically four types of pasta, each of which may
protein content. This makes it a good alternative to rice and be plain or flavoured with spinach or tomato:
potatoes for vegetarians. Pasta also contains carbohydrates 1 dried durum wheat pasta
in the form of starch, which gives the body energy. Eating 2 fresh egg pasta
more pasta is in line with the recommendation to ‘eat more 3 semolina pasta
starchy carbohydrates’. 4 wholewheat pasta.

Traditionally, pasta was eaten as a starter, but it is now used


much more as a main course or stand-alone dish.
Dried pasta
There are an almost infinite number of types of dried pasta,
especially if you include all the regional variations. Almost
Bran layers
90 per cent of the pasta eaten in Italy is dried.
Endosperm
Fresh pasta
Fresh pasta has a short shelf life as it contains eggs.

Stuffed pasta
Germ Pasta that is to be stuffed must be rolled as thinly as possible.
The stuffing should be pleasant in taste and plentiful in
quantity. The edges of the pasta must be thoroughly sealed
otherwise the stuffing will seep out during poaching.
The list of possible stuffings is almost endless as every
district in Italy has its own variations and, with thought and
The structure of a grain of wheat
experimentation, many more can be produced.

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Examples of stuffed pasta include the following: It is important to know what ingredients blend well
l Agnolini: small half-moon shapes, usually filled with together and complement the pasta without overpowering
ham and cheese or minced meat. the main ingredient. Customers must also know what
l Cannelloni: large tubes of pasta, poached that may be ingredients are in the dish in case they suffer from an allergy
stuffed with a variety of fillings (e.g. ricotta cheese and (see Chapter 17).
spinach) and finished with an appropriate sauce.
l Cappelletti: shaped like little hats and usually filled as
agnolini; they are available dried.
Preparing and cooking pasta
l Ravioli: usually square with serrated edges. A wide dishes
variety of fillings can be used (fish, meat, vegetarian, Dried pasta
cheese, etc.).
A rule of thumb for cooking dried pasta is to allow 80–100 g
l Ravolini: ‘little ravioli’, half the size of ravioli.
per portion as a starter course; increase accordingly if larger
l Tortellini: a slightly larger version of cappelletti; also
portions are required.
available in dried form.
l Tortelloni: a double-sized version of tortellini. Bring plenty of water (at least 4 litres for every 600 g of dry
pasta) to a rolling boil. Add about 1 tbsp of salt per 4 litres
of water, if desired. Add the pasta in small quantities to
Quality points maintain the rolling boil. Stir frequently to prevent sticking.
When purchasing dried pasta the box or container should Do not cover the pan. Follow package directions for
be sealed and the pasta unbroken. Check the ‘best before’ cooking time. Do not overcook. Pasta should be ‘al dente’
date. Dried pasta must be dry and not damp, have a good (meaning literally ‘to the tooth’ – tender, yet firm). It should
even colour with no signs of infestation. If you experience be slightly resistant to the bite, but cooked through. Drain
problems with the ingredients inform the supplier or your pasta to stop the cooking action but do not rinse it unless
manger immediately. If in doubt, do not use them. the recipe specifically says to do so. For salads, drain and
When purchasing fresh pasta it must be at or below 5 °C, rinse pasta with cold water.
evenly coloured, intact and not torn or damaged. The pasta
must separate easily. Fresh egg pasta
This requires less cooking time than dried pasta. When
cooking fresh pasta, the addition of a few drops of olive oil
Ingredients for pasta dishes in the water will help prevent the pasta pieces from sticking
A huge variety of ingredients may be used in pasta dishes. together.
The list is almost endless, but may include:
l fish, e.g. smoked salmon, anchovies, tuna
Straining
l shellfish, e.g. shrimps, prawns, scallops, lobster, crab,
Always strain pasta carefully as it is a delicate product. Use a
cockles
colander or a spider.
l meat, e.g. smoked ham, sausage, salami, bacon, beef,
chicken, duck
l offal, e.g. tongue, chicken livers
l herbs, e.g. parsley, rosemary, basil, tarragon, chives,
marjoram
l spices, e.g. chillies, saffron, grated nutmeg
l vegetables, e.g. mushrooms, tomatoes, onions, fennel,
courgettes, spring onions, peas, spinach, peppers, broad
beans, broccoli
l nuts, e.g. pine nuts, walnuts, hazelnuts
l fruit, e.g. stoned olives, avocado, sultanas, lemon zest
l eggs
l capers
l cooked, dried beans
l Balsamic vinegar.

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Pasta and noodles 8

Pasta-making equipment, left to right: pasta machine, ravioli cutter, ravioli tray and rolling pin

Making fresh pasta

1 Sift 400 g strong flour together 2 Make a well in the flour; pour 4 3 Gradually incorporate the flour.
with a pinch of salt. beaten eggs into the well.

4 Mix until a dough is formed. Add 5 Pull and knead the dough until it is 7 After resting, knead the dough
olive oil to adjust to the required of a smooth elastic consistency. again.
consistency. The amount of oil will 6 Cover the dough and allow to rest 8 Roll the dough out on a well-floured
vary according to the type of flour in a cool place for 30 minutes. surface to a thickness of 0.5 mm.
and the size of the eggs. 9 Trim the sides and cut as required
using a large knife.

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Other cooking methods for pasta All stuffed pasta should be served in or coated with a
suitable sauce and, depending on the type of recipe, may
dishes be finished ‘au gratin’ by sprinkling with freshly grated
l Baking: this technique is used for dishes such as Parmesan and browning lightly under the salamander.
cannelloni and pasta bakes. These dishes have usually
been cooked previously and require baking to finish the
product. This technique requires the dish to cook evenly Storing pasta
to give a well-distributed colour. After cooking, clean Dry pasta can be stored almost indefinitely, if kept in a
the dish before presenting it to the customer. Always tightly sealed package or a covered container in a cool, dry
check the internal temperature using a probe to ensure place, but you must observe the best-before date on the
that it reaches a safe 72 °C. packaging.
l Grilling: this method is used to finish cooked pasta
Fresh egg pasta should be stored in the refrigerator at or
dishes that include a sauce topped with grated cheese.
below 5 °C; if it is not for immediate use it must be stored in
l Deep frying: some pasta dishes may be deep fried; the
a cool, dry place. Allow it to dry then keep it in a clean, dry
pasta is first boiled and then coated before deep frying.
container or bowl in a cool, dry store.
An example is stuffed ravioli dipped in egg wash or
butter milk, coated in breadcrumbs and then deep fried. If cooked pasta is not to be used immediately, drain and
rinse thoroughly with cold water. If the pasta is left to sit
Sauces and accompaniments in water, it will continue to absorb water and become
Always mix sauces into pasta in a large bowl or saucepan to mushy. When the pasta is cool, drain and toss lightly with
enable the ingredients to be well distributed throughout it. salad oil to prevent it from sticking and drying out. Cover
This is best done with a large spoon or, if cold, the pasta can tightly and refrigerate or freeze. Refrigerate the pasta and
be mixed by hand (make sure hands have been thoroughly sauce separately or the pasta will become soggy. To reheat,
washed; alternatively use food gloves). put pasta in a colander and immerse in rapidly boiling
water just long enough to heat through. Do not allow the
Examples of sauces to go with pasta include: pasta to continue to cook. Pasta may also be reheated in a
l tomato sauce microwave.
l cream, butter or béchamel-based sauces
l rich meat sauce, e.g. bolognaise
Always make sure you refresh the pasta in plenty of water
l olive oil and garlic
so that the pasta is free flowing and does not stick together.
l soft white or blue cheese Shaped raw pasta is best stored in large containers sprinkled
l pesto. with semolina, layered with sheets of greaseproof or silicone
Cheeses used when pasta cooking include the following: paper or sheets of plastic in an airtight container.
l Parmesan: the most popular hard cheese for use with Stuffed fresh pasta should be blanched, drained, frozen or
pasta, ideal for grating. The flavour is best when it is chilled in small amounts which allows for easy separation.
freshly grated. If bought ready grated, or if it is grated Frozen pasta will keep for up to three months but it is
and stored, the flavour deteriorates. recommended that it is used within one month.
l Pecorino: a strong ewes’ milk cheese, sometimes
studded with peppercorns. Used for strongly flavoured Health and safety
dishes, it can be grated or thinly sliced.
Remember to store fresh pasta in the refrigerator at
l Ricotta: a creamy-white cheese made from the 5 °C. When cooked the core temperature must be 72 °C.
discarded whey of other cheeses. It is widely used in
fillings for pasta such as cannelloni and ravioli, and for
sauces. Noodles
l Mozzarella: traditionally made from the milk of the
Noodles are probably the world’s oldest fast food; they are
water buffalo. Mozzarella is pure white and creamy, with versatile and quick to cook. They may be steamed, boiled,
a mild but distinctive flavour, and usually round or pear- pan-fried, stir fried or deep fried. Noodles are a staple food
shaped. It will keep for only a few days in a container in southeast Asia but they are also very popular in the West.
half-filled with milk and water.
l Gorgonzola and dolcelatte: distinctive blue cheeses
that can be used in sauces.

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Pasta and noodles 8

Noodles are high in starch (carbohydrate). They provide


some protein, especially those made from hard wheat and
Cooking noodles
As noodles take very little time to cook it is best to cook
beans. The addition of egg also increases noodles’ protein
them to order.
content.
Examples of the nutritional content of some noodles are
given in Table 8.1.
Storing noodles
Store fresh noodles in a vacuum pouch or in a plastic sealed
Noodles can be made fresh or purchased dried. bag in the refrigerator. Dried noodles should be kept in a
tightly sealed package or a covered container in a cool, dry
Quality points place, but you must observe the best-before date on the
The basic quality points for dried noodles are: packaging.
l even and of a good colour
l no sign of moisture or discolouration.

Fresh noodles must:


l have a good colour
l be evenly cut and of the right thickness throughout.

Table 8.1 Nutritional content of noodles


100 g dry weight Calories Carbohydrates Protein Fat Sodium
Rice sticks 380 88% 6% 0
Rice vermicelli 363 85.5% 7.3% 0
Egg noodles 341 70% 11% 1.9% 0.8%
Wheat noodles 308 60% (plus fibre 10%) 12.5% 2% 0.8%
Bean thread 320 65% 20% 0
Pasta 350 75% 11.5% 0.3%
Source: Pat Chapman (1998) Pat Chapman’s Noodle Book, Hodder & Stoughton Ltd.

Test yourself
1 State three quality points to look for when buying dried pasta.
2 State three pieces of equipment you would use when preparing fresh pasta.
3 Describe how to prepare fresh egg pasta dough.
4 What is the minimum legal temperature for holding cooked lasagne hot for
service?
5 Describe how to store cooked pasta which is not for immediate use.
6 State two quality points to look for when buying fresh noodles.
7 Describe how to store uncooked fresh noodles.
8 Name three types of noodle.

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Pasta recipes

1 Fresh egg pasta dough

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 3 The pasta dough may feel wet at this stage,
however the working of the gluten will take
Pasta flour 175 g 350 g
the moisture back into the dry mass, leaving a
Whole eggs 1 2
velvety-smooth finish that is malleable and easy to
Egg yolks 3 6 work; most of this process should be carried out
using a pasta machine.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,672 kJ 400 kcal 17.2 g 9.4 g 50.0 g 10.2 g 11.8 g 4.0 g
4 Rest the dough for 30 minutes and then it is ready
to use.
This is an alternative method to the one given earlier in 5 For a classic noodle shape, roll out to a thin
the chapter. rectangle 45 × 15 cm. Cut into 0.5 cm strips.
1 Place all the ingredients into a food processor and Leave to dry.
mix quickly until a wet crumb mix appears; this
should take no more than 30–45 seconds. Professional tip
2 Tip the mix out on to a clean surface; this is l Do not knead the dough too much or it will become
where the working of the pasta begins. Knead it tough.
l Let it rest before rolling it out.
lightly.
l The best way to roll out pasta dough to the correct
thickness is to use a pasta machine.

Combine the ingredients into a wet crumb mix Work and roll out the pasta using a pasta A pasta machine with an attachment can be
machine used to cut noodles

Video: making
fresh pasta
http://bit.ly/
1MxDxCK

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2 Spaghetti with tomato sauce 


(spaghetti alla pomodoro)

1 Plunge the spaghetti into a saucepan containing


boiling salted water. Allow to boil gently.
2 Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon. Cook for
approximately 12–15 minutes, until al dente.
3 Drain well in a colander. Return to a clean, dry
pan.
4 Mix in the butter and add the tomato sauce.
Correct the seasoning.
5 Add the tomato concassé and 4–5 leaves of flat
parsley or fresh basil torn into pieces with your
fingers, and serve with grated cheese.

Professional tip
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Cook pasta to an al dente texture.
Spaghetti 100 g 250g
Butter (optional) or olive oil 25 g 60 g
Tomato sauce (page 98) 250 ml 625 ml Healthy eating tips
l Use very little or no salt as there is already plenty from
Salt, mill pepper
the cheese.
Tomato concassée, to serve l Reduce or omit the butter and serve with a large
Fresh basil or flat parsley, to serve green salad.

Grated cheese, to serve

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,672 kJ 400 kcal 17.2 g 9.4 g 50.0 g 10.2 g 11.8 g 4.0 g

Using hard margarine instead of butter.

Place the spaghetti into boiling water Drain the cooked pasta Add the sauce to the pasta

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3 Spaghetti bolognaise (spaghetti alla bolognese)

1 Place half the butter or oil in a sauteuse.


2 Add the chopped onion and garlic, and cook for
4–5 minutes without colour.
3 Add the beef and cook, colouring lightly.
4 Add the jus-lié, the tomato purée and the herbs.
5 Simmer until tender.
6 Add the mushrooms and simmer for 5 minutes.
Correct the seasoning.
7 Meanwhile, cook the spaghetti in plenty of boiling
salted water.
8 Allow to boil gently, stirring occasionally with a
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions wooden spoon.
Butter or oil 20 g 50 g 9 Cook for approximately 12–15 minutes. Drain well
Onion, chopped 50 g 125 g in a colander.
Clove of garlic, chopped 1 2 10 Return to a clean pan containing the rest of the
Lean minced beef or tail end fillet, 400 g 1 kg butter or oil (optional).
cut into 3 mm dice
11 Correct the seasoning.
Jus-lié 125 ml 300 ml
12 Serve with the sauce in centre of the spaghetti.
Tomato purée 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
13 Serve grated cheese separately.
Marjoram or oregano Pinch ½ tsp
Mushrooms, diced 100 g 250 g Variation
Salt, mill pepper There are many variations on bolognaise sauce,
Spaghetti 100 g 250 g e.g. substitute lean beef with pork mince or use a
combination of both; add 50 g each of chopped carrot
Grated cheese, to serve and celery; add 100 g chopped pancetta or bacon.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1741 kJ 416 kcal 22.7 g 12.0 g 21.7 g 2.7 g 32.5 g 2.0 g 0.4 g Healthy eating tips
Using butter. l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or olive). Lightly oil
the pan and drain off any excess after the frying is
complete. Skim the fat from the finished dish.
l Season with the minimum amount of salt.
l Try using more pasta and extending the sauce with
tomatoes.
l Serve with a large green salad.

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Alternative recipe for bolognaise 1 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan, over a medium
heat.
sauce 2 Add the beef and pork mince and the chopped
onion and pan-fry for 4–6 minutes, stirring well,
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
until the mince has browned and the onion has
Olive oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
softened.
Beef mince and pork mince 270 g 700 g
3 Add the mushrooms and carrots and cook for a
Onion, chopped ½ 1 further minute before adding the red wine, beef
Mushrooms, sliced 100 g 250 g stock and tomato purée.
Carrots, peeled and cut as for 1 2 4 Add the Tabasco sauce and season to taste
paysanne
(optional).
Red wine 75 ml 180 ml
5 Add the chopped parsley and cook for 2–4 minutes
Beef stock or meat stock, reduced 100 ml 250 ml more to allow the wine and stock to reduce a little.
Tomato purée 1 tbsp 2 tbsp 6 When mixing the pasta into the sauce, first drain
Tabasco sauce (optional) ½ tsp 1 tsp the water thoroughly from the pasta then place
Salt and freshly ground black into the bolognaise sauce.
pepper, to taste
7 Toss well, to evenly coat, then spoon into a
Fresh parsley, chopped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp serving bowl.
Fresh chives, chopped, to garnish
8 Garnish with the chopped chives, to serve (optional).

4 Penne arrabiata

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Extra virgin olive oil 90 ml 225 ml
Onion, chopped 1 2½
Medium hot chillies, finely chopped 2 5
Cloves of garlic, chopped 1 2
Bacon lardons 100 g 250 g
Canned chopped plum tomatoes 600 g 1.5 kg
Tomato purée 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Salt, to taste
Fresh/dried penne rigate pasta 400 g 1 kg
Basil leaves, shredded 5 12
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
2,263 kJ 539 kcal 24.1 g 4.4 g 65.7 g 10.2 g 19.3 g 2.8 g Parmesan shavings, to serve

1 Gently heat the olive oil in a frying pan. Add the 3 While the sauce is cooking, cook the pasta in
onion, chilli and garlic and fry while stirring for one large saucepan of boiling, salted water until al
minute. Add the lardons and cook until golden. dente (fresh pasta will cook much more quickly
2 Add the chopped tomatoes and tomato purée to than dried pasta). Drain the pasta and drizzle it
the frying pan and simmer for 10–15 minutes, until with oil.
the sauce has thickened a little. Season with salt 4 Add the basil to the sauce. Mix in the drained
to taste. pasta.
5 Serve with shavings of Parmesan.

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5 Macaroni cheese

1 Plunge the macaroni into a saucepan containing


plenty of boiling salted water.
2 Allow to boil gently and stir occasionally with a
wooden spoon.
3 Cook for approximately 15 minutes and drain well
in a colander.
4 Return to a clean pan containing the butter.
5 Mix with half the cheese and add the béchamel
and mustard. Season.
6 Place in an earthenware dish and sprinkle with
the remainder of the cheese.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 7 Brown lightly under the salamander and serve.
Browning the macaroni well gives it a good flavour,
Macaroni 100 g 250 g
texture and presentation.
Butter or oil, optional 25 g 60 g
Grated cheese 100 g 250 g Healthy eating tips
Thin béchamel sauce 500 ml 1.25 litres l Half the grated cheese could be replaced with a small
amount of Parmesan (more flavour and less fat).
Diluted English or continental mustard ¼ tsp 1 tsp l Use semi-skimmed milk for the béchamel. No added
Salt, mill pepper salt is necessary.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,899 kJ 452 kcal 29.2 g 16.1 g 34.2 g 6.7 g 15.0 g 1.7 g Variation
Variations include the addition of cooked, sliced
mushrooms, diced ham, sweetcorn, tomato, and so on.
Macaroni may also be prepared and served as for any of
the spaghetti dishes.

6 Spinach fettuccine with ham and cream cheese


(fettuccine verdi con salsa cremona)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Spinach fettuccine or other pasta 400 g 1 kg
Cream cheese, mashed 200 g 500 g
Single cream 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Parmesan cheese, grated 50 g 125 g
Salt and pepper
Butter, melted 50 g 125 g
Lean cooked ham, cut into thick 100 g 250 g
julienne

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


3,183 kJ 760 kcal 42.2 g 25.4 g 76.3 g 2.7 g 23.7 g 3.1 g

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1 Cook the fettuccine in plenty of boiling salted


Healthy eating tips
water. l This sauce is high in fat and salt, so additional butter
2 Mix the cream cheese, cream and Parmesan, and and salt is not necessary.
season with salt and pepper. l For a lower-fat version, use a ‘light’ cream cheese.
l Serve with a large green salad.
3 Drain the fettuccine and return it to the pan.
4 Mix in the butter and cream cheese mixture. Add
the ham. Toss and serve.

7 Tagliatelle carbonara

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Tagliatelle 300 g 750 g
Olive oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed 2 5
Smoked bacon, diced 200 g 500 g
Eggs 4 10
Double or single cream 4 tbsp 150 ml
Parmesan cheese 4 tbsp 150 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,911 kJ 698 kcal 44.8 g 20.8 g 43.0 g 1.9 g 33.4 g 0.2 g 1.0 g

1 Cook the tagliatelle in boiling salted water until al 3 Mix together the beaten eggs, cream and
dente. Refresh and drain. Parmesan. Season with black pepper.
2 Heat the oil in a suitable pan. Fry the crushed and 4 Add the tagliatelle to the garlic and bacon. Add
chopped garlic. Add the diced, smoked bacon. the eggs and cream, stirring until the eggs cook in
the heat. Serve immediately.

8 Ravioli

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Flour 200 g 500 g
Salt
Olive oil 35 ml 150 ml
Water 100 ml 250 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,027 kJ 249 kcal 9.4 g 1.4 g 38.9 g 0.8 g 4.8 g 1.6 g

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1 Sieve the flour and salt. Make a well. Add the Spinach and ricotta
liquid. Dry spinach, cooked, puréed 200 g
2 Knead to a smooth dough. Rest for at least Ricotta cheese 200 g
30 minutes in a cool place.
Butter 25 g
3 Roll out to a very thin oblong: 30 cm × 45 cm.
Nutmeg
4 Cut in half and egg wash. Salt and pepper
5 Place the stuffing in a piping bag with a large plain
tube. Pork and veal
6 Pipe out the filling in small pieces, each about the Lean pork mince, cooked 200 g
size of a cherry, approximately 4 cm apart, on to Lean veal mince, cooked 200 g
one half of the paste.
Butter 25 g
7 Carefully cover with the other half of the paste and Cheese, grated 25 g
seal, taking care to avoid air pockets.
2 yolks or 1 egg
8 Mark each with the back of a plain cutter.
Fresh white breadcrumbs 25 g
9 Cut in between each line of filling, down and
Salt and pepper
across with a serrated pastry wheel.
10 Separate on a well-floured tray. Ricotta and Parmesan
11 Poach in gently boiling salted water for Marjoram, chopped Pinch
approximately 10 minutes. Drain well. Ricotta cheese 150 g
12 Place in an earthenware serving dish. Parmesan, grated 75 g
13 Cover with 250 ml jus-lié, demi-glace or tomato Egg 1
sauce.
Nutmeg
14 Sprinkle with 50 g grated cheese. Salt and pepper
15 Brown under the salamander and serve.
Fresh egg pasta dough can also be used. If you have Beef
prepared the dough, start this recipe at step 3. Beef or pork mince, cooked 200g
The photo shows ravioli stuffed with spinach and
Spinach, cooked 100 g
ricotta cheese, then poached. The ravioli has been
Onion, chopped, cooked 50 g
drizzled with olive oil and garnished with micro herbs
and slices of Parmesan. Oregano
Salt and pepper

Possible fillings Chicken


Here are some examples of stuffing for ravioli, tortellini Chicken, cooked, minced 200 g
and other pastas. Each recipe provides enough stuffing
Ham, minced 100 g
to use with 400 g of pasta.
Butter 25 g
Fish 2 yolks or 1 egg
Fish, chopped, cooked 200 g Cheese, grated 25 g
Mushrooms, chopped, cooked 100 g Nutmeg, grated pinch
Parsley, chopped Salt and pepper
Anchovy paste Fresh white breadcrumbs 25 g

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9 Ravioli of squash and spinach with 


wild mushroom sauce

For the ravioli


1 Peel the butternut squash, remove the seeds and
chop the flesh roughly.
2 Cook the squash in the butter with the salt over a
medium heat until soft.
3 Add the spinach and cook for a further minute.
4 Drain off the butter and chill the mixture until firm.
5 Once the mixture is firm, roll out and cut into 1 cm
pieces.
6 Roll the pasta dough and make the ravioli to the
required shape.
7 Place on a floured tray and reserve until required.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Squash and spinach ravioli For the sauce
Butternut squash 500 g 1.25 kg 1 Sweat down the onions, fresh mushrooms, garlic
Butter 100 g 250 g and herbs in the butter for 10 minutes.
Salt 10 g 25 g 2 Add the dried cep and sweat for a further
Spinach 250 g 625 g 5 minutes.
Pasta dough 400 g 1 kg 3 Add the Noilly Prat and reduce completely.
Wild mushroom sauce 4 Add the vegetable stock and reduce by three-
Onions, finely sliced 50 g 125 g quarters.
Button mushrooms, finely sliced 75 g 185 g 5 Add the cream and bring to the boil. Remove the
Wild mushrooms, sliced 60 g 150 g thyme and bay leaf.
Clove of garlic ½ 1 6 Blitz the sauce until smooth, season and reserve
Bay leaf 1 2 until required.
Sprig of thyme 1 2
Butter 10 g 25 g
To serve
Dried cep 5g 12 g 1 Blanch the ravioli in simmering, salted water for
Noilly Prat (dry vermouth) 75 g 185 g 3 minutes.
Vegetable stock 200 ml 500 ml 2 Heat the sauce gently in a pan. Drain the ravioli
and add to the sauce.
Single cream 100 g 250 g
Salt and pepper
3 Garnish with the squash (reheated in the oven).

Chives, chopped 4 Finish with chopped chives and serve as required.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,469 kJ 590 kcal 30.8 g 17.6 g 62.0 g 6.6 g 15.8 g 4.2 g 1.3 g

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10 Ricotta and spinach cannelloni with 


tomato and basil sauce

1 Preheat the oven to 190 °C.


2 Cook the lasagne sheets in a large pan of boiling,
salted water for the time stated on the packaging.
Refresh immediately in ice-cold water.
3 Pick the spinach to de-branch it. Blanch by
plunging it into rapidly boiling water for 20
seconds before refreshing it in ice-cold water.
4 Drain the spinach and squeeze out the excess
water, then chop roughly.
5 Beat the ricotta with a spoon until soft, stir in the
spinach and season well with salt and pepper.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 6 Using a piping bag, pipe the ricotta mixture down
one side of each lasagne sheet and roll it up to
Dried plain or spinach lasagne sheets 12 30
form a filled tube. Cover and chill in a refrigerator.
Fresh spinach 350 g 850 g
7 Place the cannelloni into a lightly oiled baking
Ricotta cheese 200 g 500 g
dish.
Salt and pepper
8 Pour the tomato sauce over the prepared
Tomato sauce (page 98) 200 ml 500 ml
cannelloni, and sprinkle with freshly shredded
Basil, shredded 1 tbsp 2 tbsp basil and the grated Parmesan.
Parmesan cheese, grated 50 g 125 g 9 Bake at 190 °C for 20 minutes and serve.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,913 kJ 454 kcal 14.6 g 6.3 g 61.0 g 6.5 g 23.8 g 3.1 g 0.3 g

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De-branch the spinach Stir the chopped spinach into the beaten ricotta

Pipe the ricotta mixture down one side of the lasagne sheet Carefully lift the edge of the sheet with a knife, then roll the cannelloni
by hand

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11 Lasagne

1 Prepare the fresh egg pasta dough and roll out to


1 mm thick.
2 Cut into 6 cm squares.
3 Allow to rest in a cool place and dry slightly on a
cloth dusted with flour.
4 Whether using fresh or ready-bought lasagne,
cook in gently simmering salted water for
approximately 3 minutes (fresh pasta) or
10 minutes (dried).
5 Refresh in cold water, then drain on a cloth.
6 Gently heat the oil in a thick-bottomed pan, add
the bacon and cook for 2–3 minutes.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 7 Add the onion, carrot and celery, cover the pan
Lasagne sheets 200 g 500 g with a lid and cook for 5 minutes.
Oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp 8 Add the minced beef, increase the heat and stir
Streaky bacon, thin strips of 50 g 125 g until lightly brown.
Onion, chopped 100 g 250 g 9 Remove from the heat and mix in the tomato
Carrot, chopped 50 g 125 g purée.
Celery, chopped 50 g 125 g 10 Return to the heat, mix in the jus-lié or demi-
glace, stir to boil.
Minced beef 200 g 500 g
Tomato purée 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
11 Add the garlic, salt, pepper and marjoram, and
simmer for 15 minutes. Remove the garlic.
Jus-lié or demi-glace 375 ml 1 litre
12 Mix in the mushrooms, reboil for 2 minutes, then
Clove of garlic 1 2½
remove from the heat.
Salt, pepper
13 Butter an ovenproof dish and cover the bottom
Marjoram ½ tsp 1½ tsp
with a layer of the meat sauce.
Mushrooms, sliced 100 g 250 g
14 Add a layer of lasagne and cover with meat
Béchamel sauce 250 ml 600 ml sauce.
Parmesan or Cheddar cheese, 25 g 125 g 15 Add another layer of lasagne and cover with the
grated
remainder of the meat sauce.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre 16 Cover with the béchamel.
2,416 kJ 575 kcal 28.7 g 11.4 g 56.1 g 10.0 g 26.7 g 5.8 g
17 Sprinkle with cheese, cover with a lid and place in
a moderately hot oven at 190 ºC for approximately
20 minutes.
18 Remove the lid, cook for a further 15 minutes and
serve in the cleaned ovenproof dish.

Note
This recipe can be made using 200 g of ready-bought
lasagne or it can be prepared fresh using 200 g flour
noodle paste. Wholemeal lasagne can be made using
noodle paste made with 100 g wholemeal flour and
100 g strong flour.

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Brown the minced beef in a thick-bottomed Place a layer of lasagne over a layer of meat Cover the final layer with béchamel
pan sauce

Variation Healthy eating tips


l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or olive). Lightly oil
Traditionally, pasta dishes are substantial in quantity but
the pan and drain off any excess after the frying is
because they are so popular they are also sometimes
complete. Skim the fat from the finished meat sauce.
requested as lighter dishes. Obviously the portion
l Season with the minimum amount of salt.
size can be reduced but other variations can also be
l The fat content can be proportionally reduced by
considered.
increasing the ratio of pasta to sauce and thinning the
For example, freshly made pasta cut into 8–10 cm béchamel.
rounds or squares, rectangles or diamonds, lightly
poached or steamed, well drained and placed on a light
tasty mixture (e.g. a tablespoon of mousse of chicken
or fish or shellfish, well-cooked dried spinach flavoured
with toasted pine nuts and grated nutmeg or a duxelle
mixture) using just the one piece of pasta on top or a
piece top and bottom. A light sauce should be used
(e.g. a measure of well-reduced chicken stock with a
little skimmed milk, blitzed to a froth just before serving,
pesto sauce, a drizzle of good-quality olive oil, or a
light tomato sauce). The dish can be finished with a
suitable garnish (e.g. lightly fried wild or cultivated sliced
mushrooms).
Fillings for lasagne can be varied in many ways. Tomato
sauce may be used instead of jus-lié.

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12 Vegetarian lasagne

1 Cook the lasagne sheets in boiling, salted water


until al dente; refresh and drain.
2 Heat half the oil and sweat the onion and garlic.
3 Add the mushrooms and continue to cook
without colour. Season.
4 Heat the remaining oil in a sauteuse, add the
courgettes and lightly fry; sprinkle with the
oregano. Cook until crisp, then add the tomatoes
and tomato purée.
5 Add the broccoli and carrots, then mix in the pine
kernels.
6 Make a cheese sauce using the béchamel and
half the grated cheese; finish with the natural
yoghurt.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
7 Grease a suitable ovenproof dish well with the
Sheets of lasagne 10 30 sunflower oil and place a layer of lasagne in the
Sunflower oil 125 ml 300 ml bottom.
Onions, finely chopped 100 g 250 g 8 Cover with a layer of mushrooms, then a layer of
Cloves of garlic, chopped 2 5 lasagne, then the broccoli and tomato mixture,
Mushrooms, sliced 200 g 500 g then lasagne, then cheese sauce. Continue to do
this, finishing with a layer of cheese sauce on the
Salt and pepper
top.
Medium-sized courgettes, cut into 2 5
1 cm dice 9 Sprinkle with the remaining grated Parmesan.
Oregano 3g 9g 10 Bake in a preheated oven at 180 °C for
Tomatoes, skinned, deseeded and 200 g 500 g 20–25 minutes.
diced
Tomato purée 2 tbsp 5 tbsp Healthy eating tips
l Try using a mixture of white and green lasagne.
Broccoli, cut into small florets, 300 g 750 g
blanched and refreshed
l Use as little oil as possible to sweat the onion.
l Make the béchamel with semi-skimmed milk.
Carrots, cut into 0.5 cm dice, 100 g 250 g l No added salt is needed.
blanched and refreshed
Pine nuts 25 g 60 g
Béchamel sauce 250 ml 625 ml
Parmesan cheese, grated 50 g 125 g
Natural yoghurt 250 ml 625 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


2,993 kJ 713 kcal 46.2 g 8.5 g 54.6 g 16.5 g 22.9 g 11.8 g

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Gnocchi recipes

13 Potato gnocchi (gnocchi piemontese)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Bake or boil the potatoes in their jackets.


Potatoes 300 g 1 kg 2 Remove the skins and mash with a fork or pass
through a sieve.
Flour, white or wholemeal 100 g 250 g
Egg and egg yolk, beaten 1 2
3 Mix with the flour, egg, butter and seasoning while
hot.
Butter 25 g 60 g
4 Mould into balls the size of walnuts.
Salt and pepper
5 Dust well with flour and flatten slightly with a fork.
Nutmeg, grated
6 Poach in gently boiling water until they rise to the
Tomato sauce (page 98) 250 ml 625 ml
surface. Drain carefully.
Grated cheese, to serve
7 Dress in a buttered earthenware dish, cover with
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
tomato or any other pasta sauce.
1,045 kJ 248 kcal 9.7 g 4.7 g 35.2 g 2.1 g 7.2 g 2.1 g 8 Sprinkle with grated cheese, brown lightly under
Using white flour. the salamander and serve.

Healthy eating tips


No added salt is necessary.

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Ingredients for gnocchi Combine the mashed potato with the other ingredients while hot

Mould the mixture into balls, then flatten with a fork Drop the gnocchi into gently boiling water and poach them

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14 Parmesan gnocchi and tomato sauce

For the Parmesan gnocchi:


1 Place the potatoes in an oven at 180 °C for 1 hour.
2 Grate the Parmesan using a fine grater.
3 Discard the potato skins and pass the cooked
potato through a drum sieve.
4 Add the Parmesan, egg yolks, butter and
seasoning.
5 Mix until smooth but do not overwork.
6 Incorporate the flour until it is all absorbed.
7 Wrap the dough in cling film and allow to rest for
30 minutes.
8 Roll and shape into 1 cm pieces.
9 Blanch the gnocchi in simmering water until they
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions float.
Parmesan gnocchi 10 Refresh the gnocchi and reserve until required.
Desiree potatoes, cooked 350 g 875 g
For the tomato sauce:
Parmesan cheese 75 g 185 g
1 Cut the carrot and celery into small pieces.
Egg yolks 2 5
2 Heat the butter and oil in a pan, sweat down the
Butter 10 g 25 g
carrot and celery with the garlic, thyme, juniper
Salt and pepper berries and bay leaf for 10 minutes.
Pasta flour 125 g 300 g 3 Roughly chop the tomatoes and add to the pan
Tomato sauce with the tomato purée. Cook for 15 minutes.
Carrot 75 g 185 g 4 Add the vegetable stock and reduce by half.
Celery 20 g 50 g 5 Add the cream and reduce by half.
Butter 25 g 60 g
6 Remove the bay leaf and thyme, add the sherry
Vegetable oil 25 g 60 g vinegar, then blitz until smooth.
Clove of garlic ½ 1 7 Reserve until required.
Sprig of thyme 1 2
To finish:
Juniper berries 1 2
1 Gently sauté the gnocchi in a little oil, and warm
Bay leaf 1 2
the sauce gently.
Plum tomatoes 200 g 500 g
2 Combine the two together and finish with fresh
Tomato purée 10 g 25 g herbs and shaved Parmesan.
Vegetable stock 500 ml 1.25 litres
Cream 25 g 60 g
Sherry vinegar, to taste
Fresh herbs, e.g. basil, and
Parmesan to finish

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1814 kJ 433 kcal 25.0 g 11.1 g 41.0 g 6.4 g 14.7 g 4.0 g 0.7 g

Excluding juniper berries; using ¼ tsp sherry vinegar and


10 g shaved Parmesan to garnish per 4 portions.

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9 Fish and shellfish
This chapter is relevant to the following units: ➜ Cook and finish basic fish dishes.
➜ Prepare fish for basic dishes. ➜ Cook and finish basic shellfish dishes.
➜ Prepare shellfish for basic dishes.

Recipes included in this chapter 20 Steamed halibut with lime and fennel 193
Deep-fried fish dishes
No. Recipe Page
21 Frying batters (pâtes à frire) for fish 194
Grilled fish dishes
22 Fried fish in batter 195
1 Grilled fillets of sole, plaice or haddock 176
23 Deep-fried fish coated with breadcrumbs 195
2 Grilled tuna, rocket and fennel salad 176
24 Goujons of plaice 196
3 Whole grilled mackerel with tomatoes, basil 177
and shaved fennel 25 Salmon fishcakes 196
4 Whole sole grilled with traditional 178 Shallow-fried fish dishes
accompaniments
26 Shallow-fried fish 198
5 Sardines with tapenade 179
27 Shallow-fried sole with shrimp and caper 199
Poached fish dishes dressing
6 Poached salmon 180 28 Fish meunière 200
7 Poached smoked haddock 180 29 Pan-fried fillets of sole with rocket and broad 201
beans
8 Poached turbot, brill, halibut or cod (on the 181
bone) 30 Pan-fried skate with capers and beurre noir 202
9 Délice of flat white fish Dugléré 182 31 Nage of red mullet with baby leeks 203
10 Fillets of fish in white wine sauce (filets de 183 32 Barramundi with garlic, ginger and lemon 204
poisson vin blanc) butter and pak choi
11 Fillets of fish mornay (filets de poisson mornay) 184 33 Thai fishcakes 205
12 Fillets of fish Véronique 185 Boiled shellfish dishes
13 Fish kedgeree 186 34 Mussels in white wine sauce (moules 206
marinière)
Baked fish dishes
Fried shellfish dishes
14 Baked cod with a herb crust 187
35 Crab cakes with chilli lime dipping sauce 207
15 Baked hake with tomatoes and olives 188
36 Crab cakes with rocket salad and lemon 208
16 Cod boulangère 189 dressing
17 Fish pie 190 37 Lobster beignets with tomato chutney 209
Steamed fish dishes 38 Prawns with chilli and garlic 210
18 Salmon en papillote with crushed new potatoes 191 Grilled shellfish dishes
19 Steamed fish with garlic, spring onions and 192 39 Scallops and bacon 211
ginger

Fish l Oily fish have bodies that are round in shape and include
herring, mackerel, salmon, tuna and sardines. They are
Types and varieties pelagic fish, which means that they are found midwater.
Fish are vertebrates (animals with a backbone) and are split l White fish can be round, such as cod, whiting, hake,
into two primary groups: flat and round fish. From this pollock and sea bass, or flat, such as plaice, sole and
they can be split again into subgroups or secondary groups: turbot. They are demersal fish, which means that they
are found at or near the bottom of the sea.
l Shellfish (see page 169).

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Many people choose to eat fish in preference to meat Fish fillets


because of health considerations and, consequently, These should be:
consumption of fish has been steadily increasing. This l neatly trimmed with firm flesh
popularity has resulted in a far greater selection becoming l firm and closely packed together, not ragged or gaping
available and, due to swift and efficient transport, well over l a translucent white colour if they are from a white fish,
200 types of fish are on sale throughout the year. with no discoloration.
Fish is plentiful in the UK because it is surrounded by water,
although overfishing and pollution are having a detrimental Smoked fish
effect on supplies of certain fish. Most catches are made These should have:
off Iceland or Scotland, in the North Sea, Irish Sea and the l a glossy appearance
English Channel. Salmon are caught in certain English and l firm flesh and not sticky
Scottish rivers, and are also extensively farmed. Frozen fish l a pleasant, smoky smell.
is imported from Scandinavia, Canada and Japan, and other
countries worldwide; Canada and Japan both export frozen Frozen fish
salmon to Britain. This should:
Unfortunately, due to overfishing, the supply of fish is not l be frozen hard with no signs of thawing
unlimited and it is now necessary to have fish farms (such l be in packaging that is not damaged
as those for trout and salmon, turbot, bass and cod) to l show no evidence of freezer burn (this shows as dull,
supplement natural sources. This is not the only problem: white, dry patches).
due to contamination by humans and industry, seas and
rivers are becoming increasingly polluted, affecting both Seasonality
the supply and the suitability of fish – particularly shellfish – The quality of fish can vary due to local climatic and
for human consumption. environmental conditions. Generally, all fish spawn over a
period of four to six weeks. During spawning, they use up a
Quality points when choosing lot of their reserves of fat and protein in the production of
eggs. This has the effect of making their flesh watery and
and buying fish soft. Fish in this condition are termed ‘spent fish’. This takes
Fresh fish can be bought by the kilogram, number of fillets anything between one and two months, depending on
or number of whole fish of the weight that is required. For local environmental conditions.
example, 30 kg of salmon could be ordered as 2 × 15 kg, 3 ×
10 kg or 6 × 5 kg, the number of whole fish, or portions such Availability
as fillets, suprêmes or darnes. Frozen fish can be purchased Naturally, prevailing weather conditions have an enormous
whole (gutted), filleted, cut or prepared in a wide variety of bearing on fishing activities. The full range of species may
different ways. The checklists below summarise the main not always be available during stormy weather, for instance.
points to look for when choosing and buying fish.
Dealing with problems with fish
Whole fish If you find there are problems with fish or shellfish and
These should have: they are not of the quality, quantity, cut or type required,
l clear, bright eyes, not sunken inform a supervisor or head chef immediately. This applies
l bright red gills when checking deliveries or when you are about to use fish
l no missing scales; scales should be firmly attached to already in storage.
the skin
l moist skin (fresh fish feels slightly slippery)
l shiny skin with bright natural colouring
l a stiff tail
l firm flesh
l a fresh sea smell and no trace of ammonia smell.

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Table 9.1 Seasonality of fish


JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Bream
Brill
Cod
Eel
Grey mullet
Gurnard
Haddock
Hake
Halibut
Herring
John Dory
Mackerel
Monkfish
Plaice
Red mullet
Salmon (farmed)
Salmon (wild)
Sardines
Sea bass
Sea trout
Skate
Squid
Sole (Dover)
Sole (lemon)
Trout
Tuna
Turbot
Whiting
Key:

Available
Spawning and roeing – this can deprive the flesh of nutrients and will decrease the yield.
At best

Storing fish store in a refrigerator just for fish or at the bottom of a multi-
use refrigerator. Make sure the fish is covered or wrapped,
Once caught, fish has a shelf life of 10 to 12 days if properly
labelled and dated. Fish may also be vacuum packed before
refrigerated at a temperature between 0 °C and 4 °C. If the
chilling. For fish products that do not need to be used
fish is delivered whole with the innards still in the fish, it
immediately, use in rotation: this means using older items
should be gutted and the cavity washed well before it is
before the newly delivered items.
stored.
Ready-to-eat cooked fish, such as hot-smoked mackerel,
Use the fish as soon as possible after delivery, but it can be
cooked prawns and crab, should be stored on shelves
stored overnight. Rinse, pat dry, cover with cling film and
above other raw foodstuffs to avoid cross-contamination.

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Health and safety Canning


It is usually the oily fish that are canned. Sardines, salmon,
l Store fresh fish on trays covered with cling film and anchovies, pilchards, tuna, herring and herring roe (eggs)
labelled in a refrigerator, preferably at a temperature are canned in either their own juice (e.g. salmon), in oil, a
of 1–2 °C. This also applies to prepared raw fish.
sauce, brine or spring water. In some countries bottling is
l To avoid the risk of cross-contamination, fish should
be stored in a separate refrigerator away from other popular for fish such as herrings; this is a similar process to
foods; cooked and raw fish must be kept separate. canning.
l Frozen fish should be stored in a freezer at −18 °C.
Frozen fish should be defrosted in a deep container,
covered with cling film and at the bottom of the
Salting
refrigerator. Do not defrost at kitchen temperatures. In the UK, the salting of fish is usually accompanied by a
l Keep smoked fish well wrapped in a refrigerator to smoking process.
avoid the strong smell permeating other items. l Cured herrings are packed in salt.
l Fish offal and bones present a high risk of l Caviar – the slightly salted roe of the sturgeon – is
contamination and must not be mixed or stored with sieved, canned and refrigerated.
raw prepared fish.
In some Caribbean countries salted dried fish, especially cod,
has been popular for many years and this is now available in
Preservation of fish numerous other countries. It needs to be soaked in plenty
Fish deteriorates quickly after it has been caught and over of cold water for several hours before use.
many years ways have been sought to preserve fish for
longer. The following are some of the ways that fish (and Pickling
shellfish) can be preserved. Herrings pickled in vinegar are filleted, rolled and skewered,
and known as rollmops.
Freezing
Fish is either frozen at sea or as soon as possible after Smoking
reaching port. The freezing process should be fast because Fish that is to be smoked may be gutted or left whole. It is
the longer it takes to freeze, the larger and more angular then soaked in a strong salt solution (brine) and, in some
the ice crystals become, which breaks the protein strands. cases, a dye is added to improve colour. After this, it is
This results in liquid leaking out when the fish is defrosted, drained, hung on racks in a kiln and exposed to smoke for
leaving an inferior product. When fish is frozen quickly, five or six hours.
the ice crystals are small, and there is less leakage and
less damage. Most fish should be defrosted before being Smoked fish should be wrapped well and kept separate
cooked but some prepared fish products, such as frozen, from other fish to prevent the smell and dye penetrating
breadcrumbed scampi or plaice, can be cooked from other foods.
frozen. Plaice, halibut, turbot, haddock, pollack, sole, cod, Cold smoking takes place at a temperature of no more than
trout, salmon, herring, whiting, scampi, smoked haddock 33 °C (this is to avoid cooking the flesh). Therefore, all cold-
and kippers, as well as a wide range of prepared products, smoked fish is raw and is usually cooked before being eaten,
are available frozen. the exceptions being smoked salmon and cold-smoked
Frozen fish should be checked for: trout.
l no evidence of freezer burn Hot-smoked fish is cured at a temperature between 70 °C
l undamaged packaging and 80 °C in order to cook the flesh, so does not require
l minimum fluid loss during defrosting further cooking.
l flesh still firm after defrosting.
Choose fish with a pleasant smoky smell and a bright glossy
Frozen fish should be stored at −18 °C to −20 °C and defrosted surface. The flesh should be firm; sticky or soggy flesh
overnight in a refrigerator. It should not be defrosted in means that the fish may have been of low quality or under
water as this spoils the taste and texture of the fish, and smoked. Smoked fish still needs refrigeration or freezing.
valuable water-soluble nutrients are lost. Fish should not be
refrozen as this will impair its taste and texture, as well as Healthy eating tips
being a food safety risk. Salted, pickled and smoked fish has a high salt content
so there is no need to add additional salt when cooking.

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Fish and shellfish 9

Preparation Trimming and scaling


When preparing fish and shellfish it is important to always Whole fish are trimmed to remove the scales, fins and head
select the correct tools and equipment to enable you using fish scissors and a knife. If the head is to be left on (as
to work professionally and achieve a good finish. Fish is a in the case of a salmon for a cold buffet), the gills and the
delicate product and some, such as fillets of flat white fish, eyes are removed.
can be very delicate. Choosing your equipment well and
handling the fish carefully will help to prevent damage and Gutting
wastage. Do not over handle the fish and, when prepared, If the fish needs to be gutted, the following procedure
place neatly on a tray, cover and refrigerate until needed. should be used.
Correct equipment will also allow for safe working practices 1 Cut from the vent to two-thirds along the fish.
and reduce the risks of cross-contamination. 2 Draw out the intestines with the fingers or, in the case
of a large fish, use the hook handle of a utensil such as a
Preparation equipment may include: chef’s knife, filleting
ladle.
knife, oyster knife, scissors/secateurs, fish tweezers,
3 Ensure that the blood lying along the main bone is
chopping boards, bowls, trays, spoons and other items as
removed, then wash and drain thoroughly.
required. Assemble all of your equipment before you start
4 If the fish is to be stuffed then it may be gutted by
the task.
removing the innards through the gill slits, so leaving
Unless otherwise stated, as a guide allow 100 g fish off the the stomach skin intact, forming a pouch in which to
bone and approximately 200 to 300 g on the bone for a put the stuffing. When this method is used, care must
portion (check the recipe). be taken to ensure that the inside of the fish is clear of
all traces of blood.
All fish should be washed under running cold water before
and after preparation.
Skinning and filleting
Health and safety The following sequences demonstrate how to prepare
and fillet a round or flat fish, and how to skin and prepare a
l Use the correct colour-coded boards; blue for
preparing raw fish and yellow for cooked fish. Keep
whole Dover sole. These fish have already been gutted and
the boards clean and disinfect by putting through a cleaned.
dishwasher or spray with sanitiser.
When you fillet a fish, remove the first fillet by cutting along
l If possible keep other equipment used just for raw
fish use. If this is not possible, wash and sanitise the backbone from head to tail. Then reverse the fish and
equipment before and immediately after each use. remove the second fillet by cutting from tail to head.
l Unhygienic equipment, utensils and preparation
areas increase the risk of cross-contamination. Coating and marinating
l Use a dishwasher to clean and disinfect equipment
after use and wash hands thoroughly. Fish and shellfish can be coated with items such as flour,
l For cleaning, use disposable single-use cloths where egg and breadcrumbs (pane), milk and flour or batter before
possible along with sanitiser. cooking. They may also be marinated – placed in a prepared
mixture which may include herbs, spices, seasonings, fruit
There are various methods of preparing, cutting and filleting juice or zest, oil, wine and other ingredients – to achieve the
fish and these are described below. required flavour.

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Filleting a round fish (salmon)

1 Remove the head and clean 2 Remove the first fillet by cutting 3 After both fillets have been
thoroughly. along the backbone from head to removed, remove the rib cavity
tail. Keeping the knife close to the bones and trim the fish neatly.
bone, remove the fillet.

Boning a round fish (trout) Video: filleting


a round fish
http://bit.ly/
1aikddT

Remove the pin bones from the fillet

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Filleting a flat fish (turbot)

1 Using a filleting knife, make an 2 Remove the first fillet, holding the 3 Repeat for the second fillet.
incision from the head to tail. Cut knife almost parallel to the work
around the gill and backbone. surface and keeping the knife
close to the bone.

5 Hold the fillet firmly at the tail end.


Cut the flesh as close to the tail
as possible, as far as the skin.
Keep the knife parallel to the work
surface, grip the skin firmly and
4 Turn the fish over and repeat, move the knife from side to side to
removing the last two fillets. remove the skin. 6 Trim the fillets neatly.

Video: filleting a
flat fish
http://bit.ly/
17grHfz

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Preparing a whole Dover sole

1 Score the skin just above the tail. 2 Hold the tail firmly, then cut and scrape the skin until
sufficient is lifted to be gripped.

3 Pull the skin away from the tail to the head. Both the 4 Trim the tail and side fins with fish scissors.
black and white skins may be removed in this way. 5 Remove the eyes. Clean and wash the fish thoroughly.
The fish is shown here with all the parts that were
removed.

Cuts of fish l Goujons: filleted fish cut into strips approximately


Fish may be cut and portioned depending on their size, 8 × 0.5 cm.
shape and the menu requirements. The usual fish cuts are: l Délice: fillets of fish neatly folded with the skinned side
l Fillets: cuts of fish free from bone. There will be two facing inwards.
fillets from a round fish (one from each side of the l Paupiette: fillets of fish, such as sole, plaice or whiting,
spine) and four from a flat fish (two from each side). spread with a stuffing and rolled.
l Steaks: thick slices of fish on or off the bone. l Plaited (en tresse): for example, sole fillets cut into three
l Darnes: steaks of round fish (salmon, cod) cut through even pieces lengthwise to within 1 cm of the top, and
the bone. neatly plaited.
l Tronçons: steaks of flat fish (turbot, halibut) cut through
the bone. If cut from a large fish, these may then be cut Video: cutting
into halves or quarters.. fish into darnes
http://bit.ly/
l Suprêmes: prime cuts of fish without bone and skin,
1zOtrmN
for example cut from skinless fillets of salmon, turbot or
brill.

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Cuts of fish: (clockwise from top left) darne, tronçon, fillet, paupiettes, suprême, goujons

Portion control Cooking methods


There are a number of ways that can be used to achieve The texture of various fish and shellfish varies greatly: some
good portion control with fish, for example: are very fragile and can break easily when cooking, so
l specified size and weight of a whole fish, such as trout, handle carefully and choose a suitable cooking method. For
sea bass or dover sole per portion example, plaice fillets are very soft and delicate so are not
l specified cut sizes of darnes, tronçons and suprêmes suitable for stewing or roasting. Your recipes will provide
used as a portion good guidelines to suitable cooking methods.
l number of fillets from small fish, for example two fillets
from a plaice as a portion Fish is very economical on fuel because it cooks quickly.
l number of shellfish items, for example six king prawns,
When cooked, fish loses its translucent look and takes on
four scallops or half a lobster making a portion an opaque appearance. It will also flake easily, so should be
l number and size of paupiettes or délice offered as a
handled with care to stop it breaking up.
portion Fish can easily become dry and lose its flavour if overcooked,
l dividing a fish pie into equal-sized portions so it is important to consider methods of cookery carefully.
l filling an individual pie dish or serving dish or pastry Overcooked, dry fish will be far less enjoyable to eat and is
case less attractive than fish that is cooked properly. The correct
l using a ladle to measure the portion size of a fish stew cooking method must also be selected to ensure the fish
or soup. meets dish requirements and menu descriptions.
To maintain the quality and food safety of fish dishes it
Professional tip
is advisable to check the internal temperature using a
The fish or shellfish dish you cook needs to meet the
temperature probe. It is recommended that all fish should
dish requirements as required by your supervisor or
head chef. It must also meet the requirements and be cooked to a minimum internal temperature of 63 °C. This
descriptions on the menu (this is a legal requirement). is for whole fish and cuts of fish. Prepared fish dishes such
So if the menu says Dover sole you cannot use lemon as fish pie or fishcakes should be cooked to a minimum
sole instead unless you change the menu. You must of 75 °C.
also meet cooking method requirements, when a menu
states grilled fish it must be grilled not oven baked. The
customer too will have expectations of the dish you are
preparing and cooking, and it is important to achieve
the required quality to meet those expectations.

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Because fish cooks so quickly, an experienced chef will be and suitable sauces may also be added. Use a wok or deep
able to tell when certain types of fish are cooked by touch frying pan and a high cooking temperature. Food should
(touch temperature). be cut into thin strips and all prepared before cooking
begins. This method is well suited to firm-fleshed fish cut
Health and safety into strips or shellfish.
Environmental health officers may require higher
temperatures. Grilling
Grilling, or griddling, is cooking under radiant heat, and is
The following are the main cooking methods used for fish. a fast and convenient method suitable for fillets or small
whole fish. When grilling whole fish, trim and prepare neatly
Frying and descale. Cut through the flesh at the thickest part of
Frying is probably the most popular method of cooking the fish to allow even cooking. Lightly oil and season fish or
fish. Described below are the three main types of frying. fillets and, to avoid breaking, do not turn more than once.

Shallow frying Poaching


The fish should be seasoned and lightly coated with flour Poaching is suitable for:
before frying, in order to protect it and seal in the flavour. l whole fish such as salmon, trout or bass
Use a mixture of oil and butter when frying, and turn the l certain cuts on the bone such as salmon, turbot, brill,
fish only once during cooking, to avoid it breaking up. halibut, cod and skate
l fillets, suprêmes or fish prepared into délice or
This method is suitable for small whole fish, cuts or fillets
paupiette.
cooked in oil or fat in a frying pan. The fish can also be lightly
coated with semolina, matzo meal, oatmeal or breadcrumbs In each case, the prepared fish should be completely
before frying. If the frying medium is to be butter, it must be immersed in the cooking liquid, which can be either water,
clarified otherwise there is a risk that the fish may burn. Oil water and milk, or fish stock (for white fish), or a court
is the best medium, to which a little butter may be added bouillon (water, vinegar, onion, carrot, thyme, bay leaf,
for flavour. parsley stalks and peppercorns) for oily fish. Most kinds
of fish can be cooked in this way and should be poached
Deep frying gently for 5–8 minutes, depending on the thickness of the
This method is suitable for small whole white fish, cuts and fish.
fillets, as well as made-up items such as fishcakes. All white Whole fish are covered with a cold liquid and brought to
fish are suitable for deep frying in batter, including cod, the boil, then cooked just below simmering point. Cut fish
pollack, haddock and skate. Depending on size, the fish may are usually placed in the liquid when it is at simmering point
be left whole or may be portioned or filleted. then cooked just below simmering point. The resulting
The fish should be seasoned and coated before frying, liquid is ideal for use in sauces and soups.
usually with a batter or an egg and breadcrumb mixture to When poaching smoked fish, place in cold, unsalted water
form a surface that prevents penetration of the cooking fat and bring to simmering point, then lower the temperature
or oil into the fish. It also adds a crisp texture to the fish. Use slightly. This liquid will be salty and may not be suitable for
a thermostatically controlled deep fryer no more than half- use in stocks and sauces.
filled with oil; heat the oil to 175 °C. Test the temperature
before serving the fish. Drain the fish on absorbent paper Sous-vide
after cooking.
This method, where the fish is sealed in a vacuum pack and
Coatings can be either: cooked in a water bath, has become a popular way to cook
l flour, egg and breadcrumbs (pane) fish. It helps to reduce moisture loss and also allows the fish
l milk and flour to cook with a marinade or sauce if required.
l batter.
Boiling
Stir-frying Boiling is used mainly for shellfish and, as many shellfish are
This is a very fast and popular method of cooking where sold already cooked, this is often done at sea or soon after
the fish is cooked along with suitable vegetables and landing because shellfish can deteriorate quickly.
perhaps noodles, bean shoots or rice. Spices, flavourings

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Shellfish are often boiled from live and include: lobsters, may be seared in hot oil first); alternatively, place skin
crabs, oysters, langoustines, crayfish, clams, cockles, mussels, side down in a hot pan to sear it.
prawns and shrimps. 3 Add herbs such as parsley, rosemary or thyme, and
finely sliced vegetables such as mushrooms, onions,
Roasting shallots.
Roast fish frequently appears on restaurant menus but, 4 The fish can then be served, for example on a bed of
because fish is much more delicate than meat, only whole creamy or flavoured mashed potato with a suitable
fish or larger, firmer cuts are suitable for roasting and care sauce, a compound butter or a salsa.
must be taken not to overcook. The fish may be brushed
with oil or clarified butter before cooking and may be raised Steaming
a little from the base of the pan using vegetables. More Small whole fish, fish cuts or fillets are good cooked in
usually the fish is placed skin down in the hot cooking pan this way. Preparation is usually simple, with the fish just
to add colour and texture, or the skin is seared in hot oil first being seasoned then placed in a steamer tray lined with
then cooked skin side up. The fish is usually basted with the greaseproof paper or in a small steamer over simmering
pan juices as it cooks. water covered with a lid. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes,
depending on the thickness of the fish or the fillets.
When the fish is cooked and removed, the tray can be
deglazed with a suitable wine (usually a dry white) and fish Steaming can also be done by putting the food between
stock to form the base of an accompanying sauce. two plates and placing the plates over a pan of simmering
water.
Fish can also be coated in a light crust of breadcrumbs mixed
with a good oil, butter, lemon juice, freshly chopped herbs Fish is prepared as for poaching. Any fish that can be
(such as parsley, tarragon, chervil or rosemary), a duxelle- poached or boiled may also be cooked by steaming. This
based mixture or a light coating of creamed horseradish. method has a number of advantages:
l it is an easy method of cooking
The cooked fish may be served with a sauce or salsa, or
l because it is quick, it conserves flavour, colour and
placed on a bed of creamed or flavoured mashed potato
nutrients
with a compound butter sauce and quarters of lemon.
l it is suitable for large-scale cookery.

Baking Any cooking liquor from the steamed fish may be strained
Many fish (whole, portioned or filleted) may be oven-baked. off, reduced and incorporated into a sauce. Preparation can
To retain their natural moisture it is necessary to protect also include adding finely cut ingredients (such as ginger,
the fish from direct heat and this may be done by coating. spring onions, garlic, mushrooms and soft herbs), lemon
Prepared fish dishes, such as fish pies and en croute items, juice and dry white wine, either to the fish on the steamer
are also finished by baking. dish before cooking or when the fish is served.

There are various ways of preparing fish for baking:


l whole fish need to be scaled, gutted and washed, then
Braising and stewing
These tend to be less popular methods for cooking fish but
may be stuffed with items such as a duxelle-based
generally whole fish or larger cuts of fish can be braised in
mixture, flavoured breadcrumbs, fish mousses, herbs or
a closed container covering or half covering the fish with a
vegetables, such as onion or fennel
suitable liquid (such as those used for poaching). Vegetables
l wrapped in pastry (puff or filo)
such as onion, shallot and fennel may be added along with
l coated with a crumb mixture
herbs, spices, lemon or lime.
l completely covered with a thick coating of dampened
sea salt, which is removed before serving Stewing of fish may be similar to braising but in many
l topping or finishing a prepared dish such as a fish pie or countries there are traditional fish stews using a variety of
seafood with puff pastry, mashed potato or a sauce. fish and shellfish along with onions, shallots, tomatoes, garlic
and a variety of other ingredients. Examples of these would
For a whole fish or cuts of fish proceed as follows:
be bouillabaisse from France, cataplana from Portugal, the
1 Depending on the size and shape of the fish, 100 to
Italian-American dish cioppino, and moqueca from Brazil.
150 g thick portions can be cut, leaving the skin on (this
helps to retain the natural moisture of the fish). Table 9.2 gives examples of some of the 200-plus fish types
2 Place the prepared portions in a greased ovenproof that are available, divided into oily and white varieties. It also
dish, brush with oil and bake slowly, skin side up (this shows which methods of cookery are suitable for each fish.

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Table 9.2 Examples of fish types available and suitable cooking methods

Deep frying

(pan) frying

Stir-frying
Steaming
Poaching

Roasting

Shallow
Grilling
Baking

Boiling
Oily fish
Barracuda
Dorade (red sea bream)
Emperor bream
Herring
Mackerel
Marlin
Monkfish
Red mullet
Red snapper
Salmon
Sardines
Trout
Tuna
Whitebait
White fish
Cod
Coley
Dover sole
Grouper
Haddock
Hake
Halibut
Huss
John Dory
Lemon sole
Plaice
Pollock
Sea bass
Shark
Skate
Swordfish
Turbot

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Fish and shellfish 9

Healthy eating options when Choosing and buying shellfish


preparing and cooking fish Shellfish are prized for their tender, fine-textured flesh,
which can be prepared in a variety of ways. They are prone
(and shellfish) to rapid spoilage however, because they contain quantities
Fish is a naturally healthy food because it is a high protein of certain proteins (amino acids) that encourage bacterial
food that is low in fat; in fact it is as good a source of protein growth.
as meat. Oily fish (sardines, mackerel, herring, salmon,
sardines) contain the fat-soluble vitamins A and D in their To ensure freshness and best flavour it may be preferable
flesh as well as omega-3 fatty acids (the unsaturated fatty to choose live shellfish and cook them yourself. This is
acids that are essential for good health). It is recommended increasingly possible with modern transportation, especially
that we eat more oily fish. Owing to its fat content, oily fish air freight, which allows shellfish to be transported around
is not as easily digestible as white fish, however. the world quickly.

The flesh of white fish does not contain any fat (and vitamins Consider the following points when choosing shellfish:
l The shells should not be cracked or broken.
A and D are only present in the liver, which is why it is used
l The shells of mussels and oysters should be tightly shut;
in cod liver or halibut liver oil).
open shells that do not close when tapped sharply
If the small bones in sardines, whitebait and canned salmon should be discarded.
are eaten they provide calcium and phosphorus. l Lobsters, crabs and prawns should have a good colour
The preparation and cooking methods selected can and be heavy for their size.
change the nutritional content of a fish dish however. For l Lobsters and crabs should have all their limbs in place.
example, by taking white fish and seasoning it, coating it
in batter and deep frying it, you have increased the salt, Storing shellfish
carbohydrate and fat content significantly.
All shellfish start to spoil as soon as they have been removed
Healthy options when preparing and cooking fish include: from their natural environment, therefore the longer
l Do not add salt in preparation, cooking and finishing. shellfish are stored the more they will deteriorate due to
l Use low-fat cooking options such as steaming, the bacteria present (see the guidelines on choosing and
poaching and grilling. buying, above). Best practice would be to cook immediately
l Reduce fat and salt content in coatings and marinades. and store as for cooked fish. Shellfish can be blanched
l Use oils and butter sparingly when grilling or baking quickly to remove the shell and membrane (especially
fish. in lobsters), but they will still need to be stored as a raw
l Avoid high-fat, salty sauces and adding extra butter product as they will require further cooking.
before serving.
Bear in mind the following quality, purchasing and storage
points:
Shellfish l Where possible, shellfish should be purchased live to
Shellfish, such as lobsters and crabs, are all invertebrates, ensure freshness.
which means that they do not have an internal skeleton. l Shellfish should be kept in suitable containers,
They are split into two main groups: covered with cling film or damp cloths, and stored in a
l Molluscs have either an external hinged double shell refrigerator.
(for example, scallops and mussels) or a single spiral l Shellfish should be cooked as soon as possible after
shell (for example, winkles and whelks), or have soft purchasing.
bodies with an internal shell, such as squid and octopus
(these are called cephalopods). Cooking shellfish
l Crustaceans have tough outer shells that act like
The flesh of fish and shellfish is different to meat and, as
armour, and also have flexible joints to allow quick
a consequence, their muscle make-up is very different
movement (for example, crab and lobster).
too, making the connective tissue very fragile, the muscle

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Table 9.3 Seasonality of shellfish


JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Crab (brown cock)
Crab (spider)
Crab (brown hen)
Clams
Cockles
Crayfish (signal)
Lobster
Langoustines
Mussels
Oysters (rock)
Oysters (native)
Prawns
Scallops

Key:

Available
At best

fibres shorter and the fat content relatively low. Generally, Raw and cooked shrimps and prawns are prepared by
care should be taken when cooking and shellfish should having the head, carapace (upper shell), legs, tail section and
be cooked as little as possible, to the point that the protein the dark intestinal vein running down the back removed.
in the muscle groups just coagulates. Beyond this point
the flesh tends to dry out, leading to toughening and a
dry texture. Shellfish are known for their dramatic colour
Scampi, crayfish and Dublin Bay
change when being cooked, from blue/grey to a vibrant prawns
orange colour. This is because they contain red and yellow Scampi, crayfish and Dublin Bay prawns are also known as
pigments called carotenoids, bound to molecules of Norway lobster or langoustine, and are sold fresh, frozen,
protein. Once heat is applied, the bonds are broken and the raw or cooked. Their tails are prepared like shrimps and they
bright colour appears. are used in a variety of ways: salads, rice dishes, stir-fries,
deep-fried, poached and served with a number of different
Shrimps and prawns sauces. They are also used as garnishes for hot and cold fish
dishes.
These are often bought cooked, either in the shells or
peeled. Smell is a good guide to freshness. Shrimps and Freshwater crayfish are also known as écrevisse. These
prawns can be used for garnishes, decorating fish dishes, are small freshwater crustaceans with claws, found in lakes
cocktails, sauces, salads, hors d’oeuvres, omelettes, and and lowland streams. They are prepared and cooked like
snack and savoury dishes. They can also be used for a variety shrimps and prawns, and used in many dishes, including
of hot dishes, including stir-fries, risotto and curries. Potted soup. They are often used whole to garnish hot and cold
shrimps are also a popular dish. Freshly cooked prawns fish dishes.
in their shells may also be served cold accompanied by a
mayonnaise-based sauce, such as garlic mayonnaise. King
prawns are a larger variety that can also be used in any of
the above ways.

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l Hen lobsters are distinguished from cock lobsters by


their broader tails.

Cooking lobsters
1 Wash then plunge the lobsters into a pan of boiling
salted water containing 60 ml vinegar to 1 litre of water.
2 Cover with a lid, reboil, then allow to simmer for 15 to
20 minutes according to size.
3 Overcooking can cause the tail flesh to toughen and
the claw meat to become hard and fibrous.
4 Allow to cool in the cooking liquid when possible.
Some advice for the humane killing of lobsters is to place
them in the freezer for one hour before cooking to numb
Remove the cord from each langoustine before cooking them. Some chefs prefer to kill the lobster instantly by
plunging the tip of a sharp knife straight down and through
Lobster the lobster, right behind the eyes. There is also a device
called the Crustastun, which uses an electric current to
Although there many different lobster varieties around the
stun and painlessly kill shellfish such as lobsters, crabs and
world, the two main ones are the American lobster, which
langoustines before cooking. The machine can make a
tends to be the largest, and the European lobster, which is
large crustacean unconscious in less than 0.3 seconds and
usually smaller. Their preferred habitat is hard surfaces or
kill it in five to ten.
crevices on the sea bed at depths of around 20 to 60 metres.
Lobsters grow very slowly and can live up to 100 years. As
they grow they shed their hard shell and form another one. Cleaning a cooked lobster
Maturity is reached at about five years old and at a length 1 Remove the claws and the pincers from the claws.
of 18 to 20 cm. They can weigh up to 9 kg but are usually 2 Crack the claws and joints, and remove the meat.
around 2 to 3 kg. They have ten limbs (decapods), two of 3 Cut the lobster in half by inserting the point of a large
which are the two large front claws (one is used for cutting knife 2 cm above the tail on the natural central line.
and one for crushing). 4 Cut through the tail firmly.
5 Turn the lobster around and cut through the upper shell
Purchasing points (carapace).
6 Remove the halves of the sac (which contains grit) from
Purchase alive, with both claws attached, to ensure
each half. This is situated at the top, near the head.
freshness.
7 Using a small knife, remove the intestinal trace from the
l Lobsters should be heavy in proportion to their size.
tail and wash if necessary.
l The coral of the hen lobster is necessary to give the
required colour for certain soups, sauces and lobster
dishes.

Preparing a cooked lobster

Remove the claws and legs Cut the lobster in half Remove the meat from the cleaned
lobster

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Uses appearance whole dressed crawfish are sometimes used on


Lobsters are served cold in cocktails, lobster mayonnaise, special cold buffets. They are very expensive and are also
hors d’oeuvres, salads, sandwiches and in halves on cold available frozen.
buffets. They are used hot in soups, sauces, rice dishes, stir-
fry dishes and in numerous ways served in the half-shell with Squid
various sauces. They are also used to garnish fish dishes.
Squid is a cephalopod; they are traditionally popular in
Mediterranean cuisine but have increased in popularity
Crawfish through the rest of Europe. It is available all year round fresh
These are sometimes referred to as ‘spiny lobsters’ but, or frozen. Squid vary in size, from 5 to 7 cm in length, to
unlike lobsters, they have no claws and their meat is solely up to 25 cm. The ink sac and transparent cartilage need to
in the tail. Crawfish vary considerably in size from 1 to 3 kg; be removed and the main body is often cut into rings for
they are cooked as for lobsters and the tail meat can be used cooking. Squid needs to be cooked very quickly or by a
in any of the lobster recipes. Because of their impressive slow moist method otherwise it can be tough.

1 Pull the head away from the body, 2 Taking care not to break the ink 3 Cut the tentacles just below
together with the innards. bag, remove the long transparent the eye and remove the small
blade of cartilage (the backbone round cartilage at the base of the
or quill). tentacles.

4 Scrape or peel off the reddish 5 Discard the head, innards and
membrane that covers the pouch, pieces of cartilage. Cut up the
rub with salt and wash under cold squid as required.
water.

Crab European brown crabs, the most widely available across


Europe and available year-round, reach 20 to 25 cm across
There are an estimated 4,000 species of edible of crab. The
and have large front claws with dark pincers, a red or brown
meat from crab is very different in the claws and the main
shell and red legs.
body. Crab claws have a sweet, dense white meat similar to
lobster while the flesh from under the main body shell is Atlantic blue crabs have a blue/brown shell and tend to be
soft, rich and brown. Male crabs tend to have larger claws smaller than European brown crabs at 10 to 15 cm.
and more white meat.

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Dungeness crabs can reach up to 20 cm and have plenty Purchasing points


of good white, dense meat in the claws. The meat in the l The shells must be tightly closed, indicating the mussels
shell tends to be different from other crabs and is pale grey/ are alive.
green in colour. It is popular in the west of the United States. l They should be of a good size.
Spider crabs are popular in France and Spain, and do look l There should not be an excessive number of barnacles
like a big spider. The meat has a good flavour but it has no attached.
large claws (so no white claw meat). l They should smell fresh.

Purchasing points Storage


l Buy alive where possible to ensure freshness. Mussels should be kept in containers, covered with damp
l Ensure that both claws are attached. cloths or cling film, and stored in a refrigerator. Do not store
l Crabs should be heavy in relation to size. mussels in water.

Cooking Cooking
Cook as for lobsters (see above). 1 Scrape the shells to remove any barnacles, etc. Remove
the byssus threads (‘beards’).
Uses 2 Wash well in several changes of water and drain in a
Crab meat can be served simply with bread and salad, used colander.
cold for hors d’oeuvres, cocktails, salads, sandwiches and 3 Prepare a cooking liquid of shallots, butter, garlic and
dressed crab. Used hot, it can be covered with a suitable herbs along with fish stock.
sauce and served with rice, in bouchées or pancakes, or 4 Cook the mussels in the liquid in a large pan with a
made into crab fishcakes. tightly fitting lid until they open, which usually takes 4
to 5 minutes. Remove the mussels and check they have
all opened; throw away any that are still closed.
Cockles 5 Strain the liquid, whisk in some cream and serve with
Cockles are enclosed in small, attractive, cream-coloured the mussels still in their shells.
shells. As they live in sand it is essential to purge them by
Alternatively, place 25 g chopped shallot or onion for each
washing well under cold running water and leaving them
litre of mussels into a thick-bottomed pan with a tight-fitting
in cold salted water (changed frequently) until no traces of
lid. Add the mussels, cover with the lid and cook on a fierce
sand remain.
heat for 4 to 5 minutes until the shells open completely.
Cockles can be cooked either by steaming, boiling in Remove the mussels from their shells. Retain the carefully
unsalted water, on a preheated griddle, or as for any mussel strained liquid to make a sauce to serve with the mussels.
recipe. They should be cooked only until the shells open.
They can be used in soups, sauces, salads, stir-fries and rice Uses
dishes, and as garnish for fish dishes. Mussels can be used for soups, sauces and salads, and
cooked in a wide variety of hot dishes.

Mussels
Mussels are bivalves, which means they have a double
Scallops
outer shell hinged at the top. Mussels can be from either Scallops are bivalves with a fan-shaped shell. They vary in size
sea or freshwater (rivers and lakes) but the sea varieties are from 15 cm for great scallops, around 8 cm for bay scallops,
by far the most widely used. Mussels are now extensively and to queen scallops that are the size of cockles. Inside is
farmed, cultivated on wooden frames in the sea, producing the round white flesh and the orange coral (the roe), which is
tender, delicately flavoured plump flesh. They are produced often discarded. Scallops are popular and the prices tend to
off British coasts and also imported from France, Holland remain high, especially for hand-dived scallops rather than
and Belgium. French mussels are small; Dutch and Belgian those caught by a dredging trawler. They are prepared by
mussels are plumper. The production of mussels is prising the two halves of the shell apart and removing the
considered to be ecologically sound, which means that the white flesh and the orange roe if required.
species is not threatened or damaging to the environment. Scallops in their shells should be covered with damp cloths
and kept in a refrigerated cold room or fish refrigerator.

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Cooking Oysters
Scallops should only be cooked lightly, otherwise they Oysters are highly regarded saltwater bivalves found near
shrink and toughen. the bottom of the sea; the upper shell (valve) is flattish and
l Poach gently for two to three minutes in fish stock or attached by a ligament hinge to the lower, bowl-shaped
dry white wine with a little onion, carrot, thyme, bay leaf shell. A number of different species available, including
and parsley. Serve with a suitable sauce (for example native, flat or rock oysters, with Colchester and Whitstable
white wine or mornay). being significant oyster areas in the UK. Traditionally oysters
l Lightly fry on both sides for a few seconds in butter or are eaten raw so it is essential that they are very fresh and
oil in a very hot pan (if the scallops are very thick they cleaned/purged well. Preparation usually involves prising
can be cut in half sideways) and serve with a suitable the two halves of the shell apart with a small, pointed
garnish (sliced wild or cultivated mushrooms, or a fine oyster knife. The oysters may then be served with lemon
brunoise of vegetables and tomato) and a liquid that and other condiments.
need not be thickened (white wine and fish stock, or
a cream- or butter-mounted sauce). Fried scallops can Oysters are high in protein and low in fat; they are rich in
also be served hot on a plate of salad leaves. zinc and contain many other nutrients such as calcium, iron,
l Deep-fry, either egg and crumbed or passed through a copper, iodine, magnesium and selenium.
light batter and served with segments of lemon and a
suitable sauce. Purchasing points
l Wrap in thin streaky bacon and place on skewers for They should smell fresh and the shells should be clean,
grilling or barbecuing. bright and unbroken. The shells should be tightly closed or
should close when tapped.
Whelks Storage
The common whelk is familiar around the coast of Britain. It
Oysters should be stored at a low temperature (1 °C to 2 °C).
is actually a gastropod, which means it has a large, strong
Unopened live oysters can be kept in the fish refrigerator
flat foot to move around on. Whelks are also equipped with
covered with wet cloths or cling film for two to three days;
a siphon, which is used for breathing and feeling around
discard any that open. Do not store in an airtight container
for food.
or under fresh water as this will cause them to die. Shucked
oysters (ones that have been removed from their shells)
British winkles can be kept refrigerated in a sealed container for four to
The main types of British winkle, which can be readily five days.
identified on rocky shores, are:
l small periwinkle: approximately 4 mm Ready prepared shellfish
l rough periwinkle: at least four different subspecies, with
Shellfish are increasingly available ready prepared in a
the largest reaching 30 mm
number of ways, such as breadcrumbed and frozen prawns
l flat periwinkle.
and scampi, or shellfish wrapped in puff or filo pastry,
mussels, cooked and vacuum packed in a sauce, crab
Video: buying cakes, sushi and many more. Shellfish are great favourite
shellfish http:// for canapés and many of these are now available ready
bit.ly/1DCYHek prepared.

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Test yourself
1 What are the differences between oily and white fish? Give three examples of
each.
2 At what temperatures should a) fresh fish and b) frozen fish be stored?
3 How would you defrost fish that has been frozen?
4 Describe how you would skin a Dover sole.
5 What are the quality points you would look for in a delivery of fresh fish? If you
thought there were problems with the quality, what would you do?
6 If you had been asked to fillet and skin five whole plaice, what equipment
would you get ready?
7 List four cooking methods that could be used for white fish and four for oily
fish.
8 List five types of fish suitable for deep frying.
9 Describe the following cuts of fish and suggest a method for cooking each of
them:
a délice
b tronçon
c darne
d goujon.
10 Describe how you would prepare mussels for cooking.
11 How would you prepare and cook scallops?
12 What are the quality points you would look for with lobsters? How would you
prepare them?

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Grilled fish recipes

1 Grilled fillets of sole, plaice or haddock 

1 Remove the black skin from sole and plaice.


Wash the fillets and dry them well.
2 Pass through flour, shake off surplus and brush
with oil.
3 Place on hot grill bars, a griddle or a greased
baking sheet if grilling under a salamander. Brush
occasionally with oil. Turn the fish carefully and
grill on both sides. Do not overcook.
Serve with lemon slices with the rind removed.

Professional tip
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Oil the grill bars well, so that the fish does not stick.
802 kJ 191 kcal 7.8 g 1.0 g 3.9 g 0.1 g 26.6 g 0.2 g 0.1 g

2 Grilled tuna, rocket and fennel salad 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


For the salad
Rocket salad, washed and picked 400 g 1 kg
Fennel bulb 1 2
Green beans, cooked and refreshed 200 g 500 g
Baby spinach 100 g 250 g
Coriander, picked 50 g 125 g
For the dressing
Dijon mustard 1 tsp 3 tsp
Cider vinegar 1 tsp 3 tsp
Olive oil 3 tbsp 7 tbsp
Sunflower oil 3 tbsp 7 tbsp
Lemon juice 1 tsp 2 tsp
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,619 kJ 388 kcal 24.3 g 4.3 g 4.2 g 3.7 g 38.4 g 4.5 g 0.6 g Lime juice 1 tsp 2 tsp
Seasoning
For the fish
Tuna steaks (150 g, no skin or 4 10
blood line)
Olive oil 50 ml 125 ml
Sea salt, fresh milled black pepper
Lemon 1 2

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For the salad: For the tuna:


1 Ensure all the leaves are well washed and picked. 1 Before you start to cook the tuna, ensure that the
2 Cut the root and top off the fennel, leaving the salad is dressed and on the serving plate.
main bulb. 2 Lightly brush the tuna steaks with the oil and
3 Thinly slice the fennel on a mandolin. Place in season.
cold water with plenty of ice (this will make the 3 Ensure the grill is hot. Place two steaks on at a
fennel very crisp and curly, giving the salad some time (this is manageable as the tuna cooks very
height). quickly).
4 Place all the salad ingredients into a large bowl 4 Turn after 30 seconds and cook until the centre
ready to dress with the dressing. half of the tuna is still pink.
For the dressing: 5 Remove and place on the salad. Repeat for the
1 Place the mustard and vinegar in a bowl then other steaks. Serve with a wedge of lemon.
slowly whisk in the oil.
2 To finish, adjust the taste with the lemon juice, Note
lime juice and seasoning. This recipe lends itself well to other fish such as salmon,
3 To dress, mix the salad and dressing well, check sea bass, turbot, trout, hake and monkfish.
the seasoning and divide the salad equally
between four/ten plates.

3 Whole grilled mackerel with tomatoes, 


basil and shaved fennel

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


For the mackerel
Medium mackerel, head and guts 4 10
removed
Olive oil 50 ml 125 ml
Freshly milled pepper
For the salad
Olive oil 50 ml 125 ml
Baby plum tomatoes, cut in half 400 g 1 kg
Fennel bulb, shaved on a mandolin 1 2
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,067 kJ 497 kcal 39.4 g 7.8 g 3.9 g 3.8 g 32.4 g 2.2 g 0.2 g Baby spinach 100 g 250 g
Based on sardines rather than mackerel. Lemon, juice of 1 2
Basil leaves, torn 6 15

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For the mackerel: For the salad:


1 Ensure that the fish is clean. Score the flesh of 1 Heat the oil in a pan and add the tomatoes and
each fish in the deepest part (near the head), fennel. Cook on a hot heat.
about 3 mm into the fish but not through to the 2 Remove from the heat, stir in the spinach and
bone. (This scoring is called ciseler – it helps the allow it to wilt.
fish to cook more evenly and can be used with
3 Season with salt, pepper and a dash of lemon
most methods of cooking whole fish.)
juice. Finish with basil leaves.
2 Brush with the oil and place on a moderate grill.
(Wrap the tail in foil to ensure that it doesn’t burn.)
3 Turn the fish over to cook the other side, removing
the foil. At this point, start making the salad.
4 Once the fish is cooked, dress the plates with
the salad and lay the fish on top. Drizzle the pan
juices over and around the fish and serve.

4 Whole sole grilled with traditional 


accompaniments

1 Ensure the fish is clean of roe, scales and skin.


2 Place on a buttered grilling tray and rub soft
butter into the flesh.
3 Season and place under the grill.
4 When the butter starts to brown slightly, remove
from the grill and turn the fish over carefully, using
a roasting fork or a long pallet knife.
5 With a spoon, baste the flesh of the uncooked
side and continue cooking. The tail end will
cook faster than the head end – the tail should
therefore be cooked in the less-hot area towards
the front of the grill.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 6 To check whether the fish is done, place your
Whole sole, skin removed 4 10 thumb just behind the gill area and you should
Butter for grilling 200 g 500 g feel the flesh ease away from the bone.
Seasoning 7 Finish with parsley butter and a wedge of lemon.
Parsley butter 100 g 250 g
Professional tip
Lemons, peeled and cut into wedges 1 3
Remember that sole is a delicate fish, so be careful not
to overcook it. This is a classic recipe for slip, Dover and
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium lemon sole – there is no need to modernise it.
3,058 kJ 740 kcal 65.4 g 39.1 g 1.0 g 0.9 g 36.9 g 0.3 g 0.7 g

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5 Sardines with tapenade

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Finely chop the olives and capers. Add the lemon
juice, olive oil, anchovy paste and black pepper.
Sardines 8–12 20–30
Mix well.
For the tapenade
2 Allow 2–3 sardines per portion. Clean the
Kalamata olives 20 50
sardines and grill them on both sides, either on an
Capers 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
open flame grill or under the salamander.
Lemon juice 1 tsp 2½ tsp
3 When cooked, smear the tapenade on top. The
Olive oil 2 tsp 5 tsp tapenade can be heated slightly before spreading.
Anchovy paste (optional) ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
Freshly ground black pepper Variation
A little chopped basil and a crushed chopped clove of
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium garlic may also be added to the tapenade.
3,167 kJ 757 kcal 44.0 g 12.4 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 90.5 g 0.8 g 1.0 g

Using additional olives in place of capers.

Cleaned sardines Grilled sardines, before the tapenade is added

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Poached fish dishes

6 Poached salmon

Depending on the size of the salmon, either a whole or


half a darne would be served as a portion.
See page 606 for a court bouillon recipe.
1 Place the prepared and washed darnes of salmon
in a court bouillon, just below simmering, for
approximately 5 minutes.
2 Drain well and carefully remove the centre bone
and outer skin. Ensure that the fish is cleaned of
any cooked blood.
Serve with a suitable sauce (e.g. hollandaise or pesto)
or melted herb butter, and thinly sliced cucumber.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,284 kJ 309 kcal 20.6 g 5.5 g 0.3 g 0.3 g 30.4 g 0.1 g 0.1 g

7 Poached smoked haddock

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Smoked haddock fillets 400–600 g 1–1.5 kg
Milk and water, mixed

This is a popular breakfast dish and is also served as a


lunch and a snack dish.
1 Cut fillets into even portions, place into a shallow
pan and just cover with half milk and water.
2 Poach gently for a few minutes until cooked.
3 Drain well and serve.

Variation
l When cooked, garnish with slices of peeled tomato or
tomato concassé, lightly coat with cream, flash under
the salamander and serve.
l Top with a poached egg.
l When cooked, lightly coat with Welsh rarebit mixture,
brown under the salamander and garnish with peeled
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
slices of tomato or tomato concassé.
702 kJ 168 kcal 7.6 g 4.6 g 1.4 g 1.4 g 23.4 g 0.0 g 1.0 g

For a 125 g portion.

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8 Poached turbot, brill, halibut or cod (on the bone)

1 Place the prepared fish into a shallow pan of


simmering, lightly salted water containing lemon
juice (the citric acid helps to make the flesh firm
and white and gives a gentle flavour).
2 Allow to poach gently. The cooking time depends
on the thickness of the fish. Do not overcook.
3 Remove with a fish slice, remove the skin, drain
and serve.
4 Garnish with picked parsley and plain boiled
potatoes, and serve with a suitable sauce (e.g.
hollandaise, herb butter, shrimp or mushroom).

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,412 kJ 353 kcal 9.5 g 2.5 g 0.3 g 0.3 g 62.0 g 0.0 g 0.2 g

Place the fish into the gently simmering liquid Allow the fish to poach Lift out the fish and remove any black skin

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9 Délice of flat white fish Dugléré 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Fillets of flat white fish (e.g. sole, 400–600 g 1–1.5 kg
plaice)
Fish stock for poaching approx. 200 ml approx. 500 ml
For the sauce
Butter 25 g 60 g
Shallots, finely chopped 20 g 50 g
Fish stock 60 ml 150 ml
Dry white wine 60 ml 150 ml
Whipping cream 200 ml 500 ml
Butter, sliced and kept cold on ice 50 g 125 g
Tomatoes, skinned and neatly diced 2 5
(concassé)
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1974 kJ 475 kcal 38.0 g 23.0 g 3.5 g 3.2 g 28.0 g 0.7 g 0.6 g Parsley, chopped finely 10 g 20 g
Using 150 g plaice.

1 Skin the fish, trim and wash. 8 Add the cold, sliced butter and ripple the sauce
2 Fold the fillets neatly, ensuring the skinned side is over the butter until the butter has emulsified
facing inwards (délice). into the sauce (monté). Check the seasoning
and adjust accordingly. Do not allow the sauce
3 Using a wide, shallow pan, poach the délice
to reboil as the butter will split and the sauce will
gently in fish stock for 4–6 minutes (depending on
become greasy.
the thickness of the fillet).
9 Add the neatly cut tomato concassé and finely
4 To make the sauce, sweat the finely chopped
chopped parsley to the sauce.
shallots with the butter in a saucepan, until
translucent. 10 To serve, drain the fish well and place neatly on
a plate; carefully coat each délice with the sauce
5 Add the fish stock and reduce by one-third.
and serve.
6 Add the dry white wine and reduce again by half.
7 Add the whipping cream and reduce by one-third,
until the cream starts to thicken the sauce to a
coating consistency.

Fold each fillet into a délice Sweat the finely chopped shallots Coat each délice with sauce

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Fish and shellfish 9

10 Fillets of fish in white wine sauce 


(filets de poisson vin blanc)

1 Skin and fillet the fish, trim and wash.


2 Butter and season an earthenware dish.
3 Sprinkle with the sweated chopped shallots and
add the fillets of fish.
4 Season, add the fish stock, wine and lemon juice.
5 Cover with buttered greaseproof paper.
6 Poach in a moderate oven at 150–200 °C for
7–10 minutes.
7 Drain the fish well; dress neatly on a flat dish or
clean earthenware dish.
8 Bring the cooking liquor to the boil with the
velouté.
9 Correct the seasoning and consistency and pass
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
through double muslin or a fine strainer.

Fillets of white fish (100–150 g) 4 10


10 Mix in the butter then, finally, add the cream.
Butter, for dish and greaseproof 11 Coat the fillets with the sauce. Garnish with flat
paper parsley or fleurons (puff paste crescents).
Shallots, finely chopped and sweated 10 g 25 g
Fish stock 60 ml 150 ml
Professional tip
In this recipe, the shallots should be sweated before
Dry white wine 60 ml 150 ml
use; however, if they are very finely chopped, they could
Lemon, juice of ¼ ½ be added raw.
Fish velouté 250 ml 625 ml
Butter 50 g 125 g
Healthy eating tips
Cream, lightly whipped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp l Keep the added salt to a minimum.
l Reduce the amount of butter and cream added to
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre finish the sauce.
1,421 kJ 342 kcal 24.0 g 12.8 g 5.8 g 0.9 g 25.9 g 0.2 g l Less sauce could be added, plus a large portion of
potatoes and vegetables.

Variation
Add to the fish before cooking:
l fish bonne-femme: 100 g thinly sliced white button
mushrooms and chopped parsley
l fish bréval: as for bonne-femme plus 100 g diced,
peeled and deseeded tomatoes.

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11 Fillets of fish mornay (filets de poisson mornay) 

1 Prepare the fillets; place in a buttered, seasoned


earthenware dish or shallow pan, such as a sauté
pan.
2 Add the fish stock, cover with buttered paper.
3 Cook in a moderate oven at 150–200 °C for
approximately 5–10 minutes.
4 Drain the fish well, place in a clean earthenware
or flat dish.
5 Bring the béchamel to the boil, add the reduced
cooking liquor, whisk in the egg yolk and remove
from the heat. Add half of the cheese and correct
the consistency. Do not reboil, otherwise the egg
will curdle.
6 Correct the seasoning and pass through a fine
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions strainer.
White fish fillets 500–600 g 1.5 kg 7 Mix in the butter and cream; check the
Butter, for dish and greaseproof consistency.
paper
8 Mask the fish with the sauce, sprinkle with the
Fish stock 125 ml 300 ml
remaining grated cheese and gratinate under the
Béchamel sauce 250 ml 625 ml salamander.
Egg yolk or sabayon 1 3
Grated cheese, preferably Gruyère 50 g 125 g Healthy eating tips
or Parmesan
l Reduce the amount of butter and cream added to
Salt and cayenne pepper
finish the sauce.
Butter 25 g 60 g l Less sauce could be served, plus a large portion of
Cream, lightly whipped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp potatoes and vegetables.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,309 kJ 315 kcal 19.3 g 9.3 g 5.5 g 0.7 g 29.9 g 0.2 g
Variation
Classical variations include:
l Fillets of fish Walewska – place a slice of cooked
lobster on each fish fillet before coating with the
sauce; after the dish is browned decorate each fillet
with a slice of truffle.
l Fillets of fish Florentine – proceed as for fillets mornay,
placing the cooked fish on a bed of well-drained and
heated dry leaf spinach.

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Fish and shellfish 9

12 Fillets of fish Véronique 

1 Skin and fillet the fish, trim and wash.


2 Butter and season an earthenware dish.
3 Sprinkle with the sweated chopped shallots and
add the fillets of fish.
4 Season, add the fish stock, wine and lemon juice.
5 Cover with buttered greaseproof paper.
6 Poach in a moderate oven at 150–200 °C for
7–10 minutes.
7 Drain the fish well and retain the cooking liquor.
Dress the fish neatly on a flat dish or clean
earthenware dish.
8 Bring the cooking liquor to the boil with the
velouté and egg yolk or sabayon.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 9 Correct the seasoning and consistency, and pass
Fillets of white fish (100–150 g) 4 10 through double muslin or a fine strainer.
Butter, for dish and greaseproof paper 10 Mix in the butter then, finally, add the cream.
Shallots, finely chopped, sweated in 10 g 25 g 11 Coat the fillets with the sauce. Glaze under the
a little butter/oil salamander.
Fish stock 60 ml 150 ml 12 Arrange the grapes neatly on the dish.
Dry white wine 60 ml 150 ml
Lemon, juice of ½ 1 Professional tip
Plaice and sole are very good in this dish.
Fish velouté 250 ml 625 ml
Egg yolk or spoonful of sabayon 1 2½ Chill the grapes well before use, so that they provide a
real contrast of flavour.
Butter 50 g 125 g
Cream, lightly whipped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
White grapes, blanched, skinned 50 g 125 g Healthy eating tips
and pipped l Keep the added salt to a minimum.
l Reduce the amount of butter and cream added to
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre finish the sauce.
1,077 kJ 256 kcal 19.3 g 10.7 g 6.9 g 2.1 g 11.8 g 0.4 g l Less sauce could be added plus a large portion of
potatoes and vegetables.

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13 Fish kedgeree

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Fish (usually smoked haddock or 400 g 1 kg
fresh salmon)
Milk for poaching
Rice pilaff (see page 125) 200 g 500 g
Eggs, hard-boiled 2 5
Butter 50 g 125 g
Salt, pepper
Chives, chopped 1 tsp 2 tsp
Curry sauce, to serve 250 ml 625 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,974 kJ 472 kcal 28.2 g 15.3 g 29.3 g 4.7 g 25.7 g 1.2 g

Using smoked haddock.

This dish is traditionally served for breakfast, lunch or Serve hot with a sauceboat of curry sauce.
supper. The fish used should be named on the menu
(e.g. salmon kedgeree). Healthy eating tips
l Reduce the amount of butter used to heat the rice,
1 Poach the fish in milk. Remove all skin and bone. fish and eggs.
Flake the fish. l Garnish with grilled tomatoes and serve with bread or
2 Cook the rice pilaff. Cut the eggs into dice. toast.
3 Combine the eggs, fish and rice and heat in the
butter. Correct the seasoning and add the chives.

Remove the skin from the poached fish Flake the fish Dice the hard-boiled eggs

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Fish and shellfish 9

Baked fish dishes

14 Baked cod with a herb crust

1 Place the prepared, washed and dried fish on a


greased baking tray or ovenproof dish.
2 Combine the ingredients for the herb crust (the
mustard, breadcrumbs, butter, margarine or oil,
cheese, parsley and seasoning) and press evenly
over the fish.
3 Bake in the oven at 180 °C for approximately
15–20 minutes until cooked and the crust is a
light golden-brown.
Serve either with lemon quarters or a suitable salsa
(see page 101) or sauce, e.g. tomato or egg.

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Professional tip


Cod fillets, 100–150 g each 4 10 Add a little bit of beaten egg to the breadcrumb mixture;
Herb mustard 1 tsp 2½ tsp this will help bind the mixture together.
Fresh breadcrumbs 100 g 250 g
Butter, margarine or oil 100 g 250 g Healthy eating tips
Cheddar cheese, grated 100 g 250 g l Use a little sunflower oil when making the herb crust.
l Cheese is salty – no added salt is needed.
Parsley, chopped 1 tsp 1 tbsp
l Serve with a large portion of tomato or cucumber
Salt, pepper salsa and new potatoes.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,882 kJ 452 kcal 30.8 g 18.7 g 12.7 g 0.8 g 31.7 g 0.4 g

Using mustard powder (1 tsp) for herb mustard.

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15 Baked hake with tomatoes and olives

1 Preheat the oven to 175 °C.


2 Put the tomatoes in a small roasting pan, drizzle
with the olive oil and add the garlic.
3 Roast for 15 minutes, then add the olives.
4 Move the mixture aside and add the hake fillets to
the pan, skin side down.
5 Baste them with a little of the olive oil in the pan
and bake for 8–10 minutes, depending on the
thickness of the fillets, until just firm and flaking
easily.
6 Remove the pan from the oven and squeeze the
roasted garlic cloves out of their skins.

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


7 Gently mix them with the tomatoes and olives,
trying not to break up the tomatoes too much.
Baby plum vine tomatoes 300 g 750 g
8 Season the tomato mixture and spoon on to four
Olive oil 100 ml 250 ml
plates. Place a piece of baked hake on top of each.
Cloves of garlic, unpeeled 6 15
9 Serve with braised cabbage and mashed potato.
Black olives, stoned 16 40
Hake fillets (200 g, skin on, bones 4 10 Note
removed)
Kalamata olives are best – they have a subtle flavour.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Cod, pollock or haddock may be used instead of hake.
1,659 kJ 400 kcal 29.9 g 4.3 g 4.3 g 2.5 g 28.6 g 2.1 g 0.4 g

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Fish and shellfish 9

16 Cod boulangère

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 4 Grease a shallow baking tin with a little butter and
season well with freshly milled black pepper and
Onion 1 2
sea salt.
Oil 50 ml 125 ml
5 Peel the potatoes and slice them finely (3 mm thick).
Sea salt, freshly milled black pepper
6 Once the onions are softened, arrange the potato
Potatoes 750 g 2 kg
and onion in alternate layers on the bottom of the
Thyme baking dish, also adding the thyme throughout.
Lemon, zest and juice of 1 2 7 Mix the lemon juice and zest with the hot fish
Fish stock, hot 400 ml 1 litre stock and pour over the potatoes and onion.
Butter 100 g 250 g 8 Randomly place knobs of butter over the top of
Cod fillets (100 g, skinless, boneless) 4 10 the potatoes.
Fresh peas 300 g 750 g 9 Cover the baking dish with foil and bake in the
Chives, chopped oven for 55 minutes.
10 While the potatoes are cooking, prepare the cod
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium by cutting it into large, bite-sized chunks and
2,650 kJ 636 kcal 35.7 g 15.1 g 44.1 g 5.4 g 37.3 g 8.7 g 0.6 g
place in the fridge.
1 Peel the onions and slice them approximately 11 When the potatoes are cooked (check with the
3 mm thick. point of a knife), arrange the fish over the top of
the potatoes, recover with the foil and cook for
2 Heat the oil in a thick-bottomed pan, place in the
another 10 minutes.
onions and cook slowly until a light golden-brown.
(Do not fast-fry the onions – this is a caramelisation 12 Remove the foil and sprinkle over the peas, recover
process to reveal their natural sugars.) and place back in the oven for a further 3 minutes.
3 Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 190 °C. 13 Remove from the oven, take off the foil, clean the
outer rim of the dish if required, sprinkle with the
chopped chives and serve.

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17 Fish pie

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Béchamel (thin) (see page 84) 250 ml 625 ml
Cooked fish (free from skin and bone) 200 g 500 g
Mushrooms, cooked and diced 50 g 125 g
Egg, hard-boiled and chopped 1 2½
Parsley, chopped
Salt, pepper
Potatoes, mashed or duchess 200 g 500 g
Egg wash or milk, to finish

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


879 kJ 209 kcal 12.0 g 5.3 g 11.9 g 3.2 g 14.1 g 0.9 g

1 Bring the béchamel to the boil. 4 Carefully spread or pipe the potato on top. Brush
2 Add the fish, mushrooms, egg and parsley. with egg wash or milk.
Correct the seasoning. 5 Brown in a hot oven and use a food probe to
3 Place in a buttered pie dish. check that the temperature is 75 °C.

Cook the fish, mushrooms and egg in the béchamel Pipe mashed potato over the top before baking

Healthy eating tips Variations


l Keep the added salt to a minimum.
Suitable fish include cod, haddock, pollock, plaice, sole,
l This is a healthy main course dish, particularly when
gurnard and monkfish.
served with plenty of vegetables.
Many variations can be made to this recipe with the
addition of:
l prawns or shrimps
l herbs such as dill, tarragon or fennel
l raw fish poached in white wine, the cooking liquor
strained off, double cream added in place of
béchamel and reduced to a light consistency.

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Fish and shellfish 9

Steamed fish dishes

18 Salmon en papillote with crushed 


new potatoes

1 Preheat one oven to 190 °C and another to 220 °C.


2 For timing purposes, start with the potatoes. Boil
them until they are just cooked but not soft.
3 Crush roughly with the back of a fork and place
on a lightly oiled baking tray. Sprinkle with the
olive oil and black pepper. Put aside until the
salmon is in the oven.
4 Cut two pieces of tin foil per portion, each
measuring about 23 cm2.
5 Place half of the foil squares on a work surface
and drizzle with the olive oil.
6 Sprinkle over the garlic, chilli and shallots and
arrange the vegetables and salmon suprêmes on
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions top.
For the potatoes 7 Season with the rock salt.
New potatoes 20 50 8 Place the remaining foil squares on top of the fish,
Olive oil 50 ml 125 ml lining up with the base foil.
Dill, finely chopped 1 tsp 2 tsp 9 Bring together the edges of the bottom foil with
Sea salt, freshly milled black pepper
the top and fold together, then repeat to form a
watertight seal (this is the essence of the cooking
For the salmon
method). Before making the last fold to seal each
Olive oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
parcel, pour in 50 ml of white wine.
Cloves of garlic, thinly sliced 2 5
10 Place on a baking sheet and bake at 190 °C for
Red chilli, deseeded, finely chopped 1 2 10–12 minutes. Meanwhile, in the hotter oven,
Large shallots, thinly sliced 1 2 further cook the potatoes for 12 minutes until
Carrot, peeled and cut into thin 1 2 crisp and golden.
matchsticks
11 To serve, sprinkle the potatoes with the chopped
Sugarsnap peas, halved lengthways 16 40 dill and serve with the parcels of salmon.
Purple sprouting broccoli stems 8 20
Flat-leaf parsley stems 2 5
Suprêmes of salmon (200 g, skin 4 10
on, pin boned)
Rock salt
White wine 200 ml 500 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


3,032 kJ 727 kcal 41.4 g 6.7 g 36.1 g 7.2 g 46.8 g 6.9 g

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Note
The term ‘en papillotte’ means ‘butterfly’ and traditionally and cooks the dish in its own juices. This is then taken
this method of cookery was all about the theatre at the straight to the table and opened in front of the diner,
restaurant table. allowing the aromas to escape, creating great theatre
and sensory stimulation.
The ingredients were placed on a piece of parchment
paper (today’s greaseproof paper, or aluminium This method of cookery still has its place in the modern
foil), shaped like a heart or a butterfly (both sides world of gastronomy, however there is less theatre in the
symmetrical). The edges of the paper were brushed room. The parcel is likely to be opened in the kitchen and
with oil and crimped together, forming a waterproof served on the plate, thus harnessing the natural cooking
seal. Once placed in the oven, the moisture from the juices from the ingredients to create a naturally light and
ingredients inflates the parchment pouch like a pillow clean-tasting dish.

19 Steamed fish with garlic, spring onions and ginger

1 Wash and dry the fish well; rub lightly with salt on
both sides.
2 Put the fish on to plates, scatter the ginger evenly
on top.
3 Cover the plates tightly, place into the steamer
and steam gently until just cooked (5–15 minutes,
according to the thickness of the fish).
4 Remove the plates, sprinkle on the spring onions
and soy sauce.
5 Brown the garlic slices in the hot oil and pour over
the dish.
Garlic and ginger have intense flavours, so they must
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions be chopped very finely.
White fish fillets, e.g. cod, sole 400 g 1 kg
Healthy eating tips
Salt l Steaming is a healthy way of cooking.
l Serve with a large portion of rice or noodles and stir-
Fresh ginger, freshly chopped 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp fried vegetables.
Spring onions, finely chopped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Light soy sauce 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Variation
Cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly 4 10
sliced This is a Chinese recipe that can be adapted in many
ways – for example, replace the spring onions and garlic
Oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
and use thinly sliced mushrooms, diced tomato (skinned
and deseeded), finely chopped shallots, lemon juice,
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre white wine, chopped parsley, dill or chervil.
468 kJ 112 kcal 3.5 g 0.7 g 1.2 g 0.4 g 18.7 g 0.1 g

Using two cloves of garlic.

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Fish and shellfish 9

20 Steamed halibut with lime and fennel

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Mix together the lime juice, oil, garlic and fish
sauce and marinate the fish in this for 30 minutes,
Halibut fillet, skinned (or use any 4 × 100 g 10 × 100 g
other white fish such as pollack, spooning the mixture over the fish frequently.
cod, haddock)
2 Remove the fish from the marinade and scatter
Spring onions, thinly sliced 4 10 each piece with spring onion, coriander, chilli and
Salt and black pepper a slice of lime.
Red chilli, deseeded and cut into ½ 1½ 3 Season the fennel and place in a steamer tray,
very thin slices
small steamer or between two plates over
Lime juice 3 tbsp 8 tbsp simmering water.
Olive oil or sunflower oil 3 tbsp 8 tbsp 4 Top with the fish, make sure it is well covered
Limes cut into rounds 1 3 and steam gently for 5–10 minutes until the fish is
Bay leaves 2 6 cooked and the fennel tender.
Cloves of garlic, finely chopped 1 2½ 5 Remove the fish and continue to cook the fennel if
Coriander, chopped 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp necessary.
Fennel bulb, very thinly sliced 1 2½ 6 Divide the fennel between the plates and top each
Thai fish sauce (Nam Pla) 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
with fish.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
914 kJ 219 kcal 13.3 g 1.9 g 2.2 g 1.6 g 22.8 g 2.1 g 0.1 g

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Deep-fried fish dishes

21 Frying batters (pâtes à frire) for fish 

Recipe A Recipe B
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Flour 200 g 500 g Flour 200 g 500 g
Salt Salt
Yeast 10 g 25 g Egg 1 2–3
Water or milk 250 ml 625 ml Water or milk 250 ml 625 ml
Oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
1 Sift the flour and salt into a basin.
2 Dissolve the yeast in a little of the water. 1 Sift the flour and salt into a basin. Make a well.
3 Make a well in the flour. Add the yeast and the Add the egg and the liquid.
liquid. 2 Gradually incorporate the flour and beat to a
4 Gradually incorporate the flour and beat to a smooth mixture.
smooth mixture. 3 Mix in the oil. Allow to rest before using.
5 Allow to rest for at least 1 hour before using.
Recipe C
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Flour 200 g 500 g
Salt
Water or milk 250 ml 625 ml
Oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Egg whites, stiffly beaten 2 5 tbsp

1 As for Recipe B, but fold in the egg whites just


before using.

Note
Other ingredients can be added to batter, for example
Batter mixed to the right consistency chopped fresh herbs, grated ginger, garam masala or
beer.

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Fish and shellfish 9

22 Fried fish in batter 

1 Pass the prepared, washed and well-dried fish


through flour, shake off the surplus and pass
through the batter (see Recipe 21).
2 Place carefully away from you into the hot deep-
fryer at 175 °C until the fish turns a golden-brown.
Remove and drain well.
Serve with lemon quarters and tartare sauce.

Professional tip
Remove any excess batter before frying; too much
batter will make the dish too heavy.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,736 kJ 415 kcal 14.0 g 1.8 g 41.6 g 3.5 g 33.2 g 2.1 g

Pass the prepared fish through the batter Shake off any excess and then lower carefully into the fryer

23 Deep-fried fish coated with breadcrumbs 

1 Pass the fillets through flour, beaten egg and fresh


white breadcrumbs. (Pat the surfaces well to
avoid loose crumbs falling into the oil, burning and
spoiling both the oil and the fish.)
2 Deep-fry at 175 °C, until the fish turns a golden-
brown. Remove and drain well.
3 Serve with lemon wedges and tartare sauce.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,356 kJ 324 kcal 19.5 g 2.0 g 14.0 g 0.5 g 24.2 g 0.8 g 0.2 g

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24 Goujons of plaice 

1 Cut fillets of plaice into strips approximately


8 × 0.5 cm. Wash and dry well.
2 Pass through flour, beaten egg and fresh white
breadcrumbs. Pat the surfaces well so that there
are no loose crumbs which could fall into the oil
and burn.
3 Deep-fry at 175–180 °C, then drain well.
Serve with lemon quarters and a suitable sauce
(e.g. tartare).

Professional tip
Keep the coating ingredients (flour, egg and
breadcrumbs) separate. Shake off any excess flour and
egg before dipping the fish into the breadcrumbs.
Other fish, e.g. sole or salmon, may be used instead of
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium plaice.
1,094 kJ 261 kcal 13.8 g 0.0 g 13.8 g 0.0 g 21.3 g 0.6 g 0.3 g

25 Salmon fishcakes 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Salmon fillet, skinned and boneless 400 g 1 kg
Butter 50 g 125 g
Lemon, juice of 1 2
Spring onions 3 8
Flat leaf parsley 10 g 25 g
Dill sprig sprig
Cooked mashed potato (make sure 225 g 560 g
this is fairly dry)
Eggs, beaten 1 2
Crème fraiche 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Thai fish sauce (nam pla) – optional Few drops 1 tsp
Plain flour, seasoned
Eggs, beaten
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,821 kJ 438 kcal 30.2 g 13.6 g 18.0 g 1.5 g 24.5 g 1.6 g Breadcrumbs

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Fish and shellfish 9

1 Place the salmon in an oiled roasting tin, season 6 Form into neat, even-sized cake shapes (a ring
with salt and pepper, dot with butter and squeeze mould could be used), place on a tray lined with
the lemon juice over. cling film and chill thoroughly for several hours.
2 Bake at 200 °C for approximately 7 minutes. 7 Coat with seasoned flour, egg and breadcrumbs
3 Allow the salmon to cool a little, then flake into (pané), chill well again or the formed cakes can
bite-sized pieces. be frozen.
4 Chop the spring onions and herbs. 8 Cook in a deep fryer as required and drain on
kitchen paper.
5 Add the salmon to the mashed potato, and mix
in the herbs, spring onion, beaten egg and crème 9 Serve with a suitable sauce or salsa and/or mixed
fraiche. Add a little nam pla if using and season. salad leaves.

One way to divide the mixture is to form it into Divide the roll into even pieces Mould each piece into a ball
a long roll

Pass the balls through seasoned flour, beaten Flatten each cake firmly and shake off Deep fry until golden brown
egg and breadcrumbs surplus crumbs

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Shallow-fried fish dishes

26 Shallow-fried fish

1 Prepare, clean, wash and dry the fish well.


2 Pass through flour and shake off all surplus. (If
using non-stick pans it is not necessary to flour
the fish.)
3 Heat the frying medium, such as oil, in a frying
pan.
4 Shallow-fry on both sides (presentation side first),
then serve.

Professional tip
Do not overcrowd the pan because this may cause
the temperature of the oil to fall, which will affect the
efficient cooking of the fish.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,056 kJ 251 kcal 13.2 g 1.7 g 7.8 g 0.2 g 26.0 g 0.4 g 0.2 g

Pass the fish through seasoned flour Place carefully into the pan, presentation side Turn the fish gently, once, during cooking
first

Variation
When cooked, sprinkle with a mixture of grated lemon
zest, finely chopped garlic and chopped parsley (known
as gremolata).

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Fish and shellfish 9

27 Shallow-fried sole with shrimp and caper dressing

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Fillet the fish and trim the fillets to neaten them.
Lemon sole (350 g) 4 10 2 Mix the cumin, salt, pepper and flour together.
Ground cumin, toasted 5g 12 g 3 Before you start cooking the fish, make sure the
Sea salt, freshly milled black pepper
other components of the dish are ready, as the
sole will cook quickly.
Plain flour 200 g 500 g
4 Heat the oil in a non-stick pan large enough to
Sunflower oil 100 ml 250 ml
cook one portion (four fillets). Pass the fillets
For the dressing
through the flour, ensuring that the whole fillet is
Shrimps, cooked and peeled 100 g 250 g coated.
Small capers 75 g 200 g 5 Place the fillets into the hot oil, presentation side
Butter, cut into small cubes 150 g 375 g first, and cook until golden. Turn and cook for a
Olive oil 50 ml 125 ml further 10 seconds, remove and place on an oven
Parsley, chopped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp tray (they will be flashed in the oven just before
serving).
Lemon, juice of 1 2
6 Repeat the process for the other portions.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium 7 Add the dressing ingredients, except the parsley
4,655 kJ 1117 kcal 74.9 g 25.2 g 39.7 g 1.6 g 74.5 g 2.3 g 1.0 g
and lemon juice, to the pan, and heat until the
butter foams and brings out the flavour of the
capers.
8 Squeeze in the lemon juice and add the parsley.
9 Flash the sole in a moderate oven. Spoon the
dressing over the sole to serve. Accompany with
purple sprouting broccoli or green salad.

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28 Fish meunière

Professional tip
When the butter has browned, try adding a squeeze of
lemon juice or a splash of white wine for extra flavour.

Healthy eating tips


l Use a small amount of unsaturated oil to fry the fish.
l Use less beurre noisette per portion. Some
customers will prefer the finished dish without the
additional fat.

Variation
Variations include the following:
l Fish meunière with almonds: as for fish meunière,
4 portions 10 portions
adding 10 g of almonds cut in short julienne or
White fish fillets, skinned 400–600 g 1–1.5 kg coarsely chopped into the meunière butter just before
it begins to turn brown. This method is usually applied
Large lemons 2 5
to trout.
Clarified butter 100 g 250 g l Fish belle meunière: as for fish meunière, with
Parsley, chopped 1 tsp 2 tsp the addition of a grilled mushroom, a slice of peeled
tomato and a soft herring roe (passed through flour
and shallow-fried), all neatly dressed on each portion
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
of fish.
1,314 kJ 313 kcal 24.1 g 10.3 g 3.1 g 0.0 g 21.2 g 0.1 g
l Fish Doria: as for fish meunière, with a sprinkling of
Many fish, whole or filleted, may be cooked by this small turned pieces of cucumber carefully cooked in
25 g of butter in a small covered pan, or blanched in
method: for example, sole, sea bass, bream, fillets of boiling salted water.
plaice, trout, brill, cod, turbot, herring and scampi. l Fish Grenobloise: as for fish meunière, the peeled
1 Prepare and clean the fish, wash and drain. lemon being cut into segments, neatly dressed on the
fish, with a few capers sprinkled over.
2 Pass through seasoned flour, shaking off all l Fish Bretonne: as for fish meunière, with a few
surplus. picked shrimps and cooked sliced mushrooms
3 Shallow-fry on both sides, presentation side first, sprinkled over the fish.
in hot clarified butter or oil. For each of these classical dishes, chefs may wish to
4 Dress neatly on an oval flat dish or plate/plates. add some chopped herbs for flavour; for example, add
chopped dill to fish Doria.
5 Peel a lemon, removing the peel, white pith and
pips.
6 Cut the lemon into slices and place one on each
portion.
7 Squeeze some lemon juice on the fish.
8 Allow 10–25 g butter per portion and colour in a
clean frying pan to the nut-brown stage (beurre
noisette).
9 Pour over the fish.
10 Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.

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Fish and shellfish 9

29 Pan-fried fillets of sole with rocket and 


broad beans

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Heat a little oil in a non-stick pan.


Oil for frying 2 Place the fillets of sole on a tray and season on
both sides.
Sole fillets, trimmed 16 40
Seasoning
3 Place the fish in the pan carefully (presentation
side down).
Butter 200 g 500 g
4 Cook for 1 minute on a medium/high heat, and
Broad beans, cooked and shelled 250 g 625 g
then carefully turn the fish, remove the pan from
Rocket, picked and washed 300 g 750 g the heat and allow the residual heat to finish the
Vinaigrette 50 ml 125 ml cooking.
5 Place the sole fillets (four per portion) on serving
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,710 kJ 654 kcal 54.2 g 28.0 g 5.1 g 1.4 g 36.6 g 6.6 g 0.6 g
plates and keep warm.
6 Place the butter in the cooking pan, heat to the
noisette stage, add the broad beans and cook for
Note
30 seconds to 1 minute just to reheat them.
This is a very simple and quick dish. Any salad or 7 Mask the fish with the noisette butter and the
greens, if they are quickly cooked or lightly dressed, can beans. Finish with a dressed rocket salad.
go with this dish.

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30 Pan-fried skate with capers and beurre noir

1 Place a skillet on the hottest part of the stove


and an empty sauté pan to the side of the stove,
achieving a moderate heat (this is for the beurre
noir).
2 Ensure the skate wings are fresh, and free from
ammonia aromas and skin. Season them with salt
and pepper.
3 Add the vegetable oil to the skillet and place in
the skate wings; cook with colour for 1–2 minutes
and then carefully turn. At this point, ease the
skillet to a cooler point of the stove while the
beurre noir cooks.
4 Place the butter in the sauté pan and allow to
foam (at this point remove the skate and place on
the serving dish).
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
5 Add the lemon, parsley and capers to the beurre
Skate, skinless fillets (approx. 4 10 noir and stir well.
160 g each)
Seasoning
6 To finish, nap over the skate wing and serve.

Vegetable oil 50 ml 125 ml


Note
Butter 175 g 450 g
Because skate pass urine through their wings, if they are
Lemons, juice of 2 5
not extremely fresh they will start to smell of ammonia
Flat leaf parsley, chopped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp after three to four days. This is a key indicator of their
Small capers 100 g 250 g freshness.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,395 kJ 579 kcal 51.9 g 24.7 g 0.8 g 0.8 g 27.1 g 1.2 g 1.0 g

Based on olives in place of capers.

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Fish and shellfish 9

31 Nage of red mullet with baby leeks

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 In a large pan place the onions, carrots, celery
and leeks, which have been cut into 2 cm pieces.
Mussels, cooked and removed 16 40
from shell 2 Just cover the vegetables with water. Bring to the
Lemons, juice of 2 5 boil. Simmer for 4–5 minutes. Remove from the
Baby spinach 200 g 500 g heat and add the rest of the ingredients.
Baby leeks 12 30 3 Cover with cling film and allow to cool to room
temperature. Place into a plastic container and
Baby asparagus, spears of 12 30
store in the fridge overnight to develop flavour.
Green beans, pieces of 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
4 Pass through a fine sieve. Any surplus nage can
Red mullet fillets (approximately 4 10
120 g each), pin bones and scales be frozen for later use.
removed 5 To finish, place 500 ml of the vegetable nage in
Nage a pan, add the mussels, a squeeze of lemon,
Large onion 1 3 spinach, baby leeks, asparagus and green beans.
Carrots, peeled 2 5 6 Bring to the boil, check the seasoning and retain.
Celery sticks 2 5 7 Heat a non-stick pan with a little vegetable oil.
Leeks 2 5 Season the mullet fillets and cook for 1 minute on
Cloves of garlic 1 3 each side (thickness dependent), starting with the
Half white and half pink peppercorns 12 30
skin side down.

Star anise 1 3
8 Divide the vegetable garnish between the bowls.
Place the red mullet on top of the vegetable
White wine 375 ml 950 ml
garnish and, returning the pan the mullet was
Noilly Prat 375 ml 950 ml cooked in to the stove, pour in the nage.
Chervil 10 g 25 g
9 When the nage has returned to the boil, spoon
Parsley 10 g 25 g over the fish and garnish. Serve immediately.
Tarragon 10 g 25 g
Chives, chopped 1 tbsp 3 tbsp Professional tip
This dish is open to many substitutions of fish and
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
shellfish but one key point to remember is that the
2,172 kJ 519 kcal 9.2 g 0.9 g 26.8 g 19.7 g 46.2 g 13.1 g 0.6 g nage should not be allowed to overpower the main
ingredients.

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32 Barramundi with garlic, ginger and


lemon butter and pak choi

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Bring a pan of salted water to the boil.


Olive oil 75 ml 200 ml 2 Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan.
Barramundi fillets (200 g, skin off) 4 10 3 Season the fish fillets and place in the hot oil.
Seasoning
Cook for 2 minutes and then turn, removing the
pan from the heat. Allow the residual heat to finish
Small heads of pak choi 8 20
the cooking process.
Salted butter 100 g 250 g
4 Meanwhile, blanch the pak choi for 2 minutes in
Garlic, small cloves, chopped 1 2 the boiling water, until vibrant green. Drain.
Root ginger, cut into 2–3/6–8 50 g 125 g
pieces
5 Remove the fish from the pan and keep it warm.
Return the pan to the heat and add the butter,
Fresh lemon juice 3 tbsp 7 tbsp
garlic and ginger. Cook for 2 minutes until the
Fresh basil leaves, chopped 5 12 garlic is soft and the ginger has imparted its
flavour. Remove the ginger and add the lemon
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3,174 kJ 766 kcal 62.2 g 19.7 g 7.9 g 6.9 g 44.3 g 6.8 g 0.3 g
juice and basil.
Using spring greens instead of pak choi. 6 Mix well and add the pak choi. Ensure that all the
flavours are incorporated well.
Note 7 Serve the fish and pak choi with the dressing from
the pan over the top.
Barramundi can be used in any recipe calling for a white
fish such as cod, bass or haddock, or red snapper.

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Fish and shellfish 9

33 Thai fishcakes

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Place all ingredients, except the oil for cooking, in
a food processor, blend until bound together and
Salmon, filleted and skinned 100 g 250 g
smooth.
Cod, filleted and skinned 100 g 250 g
2 Turn out and divide into 12 small cakes for four
Sesame oil ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
portions (30 for ten portions). The cakes should
Cloves of garlic 2 5 be at least 2 cm thick.
Root ginger, grated 1 tbsp 2¼ tbsp 3 Heat the oil in a suitable pan. Place the fish cakes
Red chillies (small) ½ 1 in, allowing approximately 3 minutes each side.
Soy sauce 1 tsp 1½ tsp Drain on kitchen paper after frying.
Lemon grass 12 g 30 g 4 Serve immediately garnished with flat leaf parsley
Salt 2g 5g and Thai cucumber salad.
Pepper 2g 5g
Healthy eating tips
Lime juice 2 tsp 5 tsp l No added salt is needed.
Sunflower oil for cooking 2 tsp 5 tsp l Serve with plenty of fragrant Thai rice and extra
vegetables.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
395 kJ 95 kcal 5.8 g 0.9 g 0.7 g 0.2 g 10.0 g 0.1 g

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Boiled shellfish dishes

34 Mussels in white wine sauce (moules marinière)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Take a thick-bottomed pan and add the shallots,
parsley, wine, fish stock and the cleaned mussels.
Shallots, chopped 50 g 125 g
2 Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook over a high
Parsley, chopped 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
heat until the shells open.
White wine 60 ml 150 ml
3 Drain off all the cooking liquor in a colander set
Strong fish stock 200 ml 500 ml
over a clean bowl to retain the cooking juices.
Mussels 2 kg 5 kg
4 Carefully check the mussels and discard any that
Butter 25 g 60 g have not opened.
Flour 25 g 60 g
5 Place in a dish and cover to keep warm.
Seasoning
6 Make a roux from the flour and butter; pour over
the cooking liquor, ensuring it is free from sand
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,900 kJ 452 kcal 14.3 g 5.3 g 18.1 g 0.9 g 61.4 g 0.6 g 1.5 g
and stirring continuously to avoid lumps.
7 Correct the seasoning and garnish with more
chopped parsley.
8 Pour over the mussels and serve.

Variation
For an eastern influence add a little red chilli and replace
the parsley with coriander.

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Fish and shellfish 9

Fried shellfish dishes

35 Crab cakes with chilli lime dipping sauce

Ingredient 30–40 cakes For the crab cakes:


Crab cakes 1 In a food processor, place the crab, prawns, curry
Crab meat 350 g paste, egg, spring onion, coriander, lemon grass
and chilli. Combine all ingredients until mixed
Uncooked prawns, shelled and deveined 650 g
together.
Red curry paste 1 tbsp
2 Shape into small cakes.
Egg 1
3 Heat the oil in a shallow pan and fry the crab
Spring onions 2
cakes on both sides until golden brown. Drain,
Fresh coriander, finely chopped 2 tbsp then place on a suitable dish with the dipping
Lemon grass, finely chopped 2 tsp sauce (see below).
Red Thai chilli, deseeded and chopped 1
For the dipping sauce:
Vegetable oil 2 tbsp
1 Combine all ingredients in a suitable bowl.
Dipping sauce
2 Stir well.
Lime juice 2 tbsp
Water 2 tbsp
Fish sauce (nam pla) 2 tsp
Kaffir lime leaf, chopped 1
Red Thai chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 1

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


557 kJ 133 kcal 5.6 g 0.7 g 1.2 g 0.4 g 19.6 g 0.1 g

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36 Crab cakes with rocket salad and lemon dressing

For the crab cakes:


1 Mix the shallots, spring onions and the fish glaze
with the hand-picked crab meat.
2 Add the mayonnaise, lemon juice, tomato
concassé and mustard, check and adjust the
seasoning.
3 Allow to rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
4 Scale into 80–90 g balls and shape into discs
1.5 cm high, place in the freezer for 30 minutes to
harden.
5 When firm to the touch, coat in breadcrumbs
using the flour, egg and breadcrumbs.
6 Allow to rest for a further 30 minutes.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 7 Heat a little oil in a non-stick pan, carefully place
Crab cakes the cakes in and cook on each side until golden
Shallots, finely chopped 25 g 60 g brown.
Spring onions, finely chopped 4 10 For the salad and dressing:
Fish/shellfish glaze 75 ml 185 ml 1 Combine the oil, vinegar and lemon juice together,
Crab meat 400 g 1 kg check the seasoning.
Mayonnaise 75 g 185 g 2 Place the rocket and Parmesan in a large bowl
Lemons, juice of 1 3 and add a little dressing, just to coat.
Plum tomatoes skinned, cut into 2 5 3 Place this in the centre of each plate, top with the
concassé
crab cakes and serve. Alternatively, present the
Wholegrain mustard 1 tsp 3 tsp salad on top of the crab cakes.
Seasoning
Fresh white breadcrumbs 200 g 500 g Professional tip
Eggs, beaten with 100 ml of milk 2 5 Any excess crab meat can be used up in this recipe –
a quick, classic dish. The crab can be exchanged for
Salad and lemon dressing salmon or most fresh fish trimmings.
Vegetable oil 170 ml 425 ml
White wine vinegar 25 ml 60 ml
Lemons, juice of 1 2½
Seasoning
Rocket, washed and picked 100 g 250 g
Parmesan, shaved 100 g 250 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


3,002 kJ 719 kcal 43.9 g 10.5 g 41.9 g 4.4 g 41.4 g 4.1 g

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Fish and shellfish 9

37 Lobster beignets with tomato chutney

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


For the chutney
Oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Onion, peeled and chopped 1 2
Tomatoes, peeled, seeded and 1 kg 2.5 kg
diced (concassé)
Red wine vinegar 70 ml 175 ml
Cup sugar 50 g 125 g
Coriander powder 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
Paprika 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
For the lobster beignets
Cooked lobster tails 4 10

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
Plain flour (plus a little extra for 145 g 360 g
1,914 kJ 451 kcal 3.3 g 0.6 g 77.4 g 26.1 g 28.1 g 7.8 g 0.3 g
coating)
Fecule (potato starch) 120 g 300 g
Active dry yeast 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Note
Salt ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
This can be served as a quick, hot and spicy bar dish.
Real ale or beer 300 ml 750 ml

For the chutney: For the lobster beignets:


1 Warm the oil in a large pot over a medium-low 1 Slice lobster meat crosswise into 0.5 cm-thick
heat. medallions; keep chilled.
2 Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until 2 Heat the oil in a deep fryer to 180 °C.
tender (5–10 minutes). 3 In a bowl, combine the flour, starch, yeast and
3 Add tomatoes, vinegar, sugar, coriander and salt; stir to mix. Stir in the beer to make the batter.
paprika; bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally, 4 Coat a lobster medallion in a little flour and then
until thickened (45–55 minutes). in the batter. Deep-fry until crispy and golden,
4 Remove from the heat and allow to cool. 2–3 minutes.
5 Fry three or four at a time (do not crowd the fryer).
Drain well. Sprinkle beignets lightly with salt and
serve hot with chutney.

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38 Prawns with chilli and garlic

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 In a shallow dish, mix together the garlic, lime
juice, lemon juice, chillies, olive oil and honey.
Clove of garlic, crushed 1 3
2 Make an incision (don’t cut all the way through –
Lime, juice of 1 2½
leave the prawn intact) in the back of each prawn
Lemon, juice of ½ 1¼
and remove the entrails. Wash and dry well.
Mild red chillies, deseeded and 2 5
finely chopped 3 Add the prawns to the oil/chilli mix, season
with black pepper and marinate in the fridge for
Olive oil 1 tbsp 3 tbsp
30 minutes.
Honey 1 tbsp 3 tbsp
4 Meanwhile, prepare the green salad, salsa verde
Extra large prawns, raw, shells on, 32 80
heads removed and garlic bread.
Black pepper 5 Remove the prawns from the marinade and heat
To serve a small amount of oil in a non-stick frying pan.
Salsa verde (see page 101) 100 ml 250 ml 6 Place the prawns in the pan and cook until pink
Garlic bread 4 slices 10 slices
and cooked through, basting with any leftover
marinade while cooking.
Green salad
7 To serve, place warm garlic bread on plates and
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
pile the prawns up on top, allowing the cooking
728 kJ 173 kcal 3.8 g 0.6 g 6.6 g 6.3 g 28.6 g 0.1 g 0.3 g juices to run into the bread. Drizzle with salsa
verde and serve with the salad.

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Fish and shellfish 9

Grilled shellfish dishes

39 Scallops and bacon

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Wrap the scallops in the pancetta, pin with a
cocktail stick and season (be mindful that the
Large scallops, shelled, roe and 12 30
skirt removed, washed pancetta is salty).
Pancetta bacon rashers (rind off) 12 30 2 Heat the oil in a non-stick pan, place the scallops
Olive oil 50 ml 125 ml in and cook until golden-brown. Squeeze the
lemon over the scallops and allow the juice to
Lemon 1 2½
evaporate slightly.
Asparagus sticks, peeled, blanched 16 40
for 1 minute and refreshed 3 Remove from the pan and retain with all the pan
Seasoning juices.
4 Return the pan to the heat and add the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium asparagus, cooking for a further 2 minutes.
1,705 kJ 410 kcal 26.8 g 6.9 g 5.9 g 2.8 g 36.4 g 2.3 g 1.3 g
5 To serve, divide the asparagus on to plates. Top
with the scallops, pour over the pan juices and
serve.

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10 Meat and offal
This chapter is relevant to the following units: ➜ Cook and finish basic meat dishes.
➜ Prepare meat for basic dishes. ➜ Cook and finish basic offal dishes.
➜ Prepare offal for basic dishes.

Recipes included in this chapter Fried beef dishes


23 Tournedos 256

No. Recipe Page 24 Sirloin steak with red wine (entrecôte 256
bordelaise)
Grilled lamb dishes
25 Beef stroganoff 257
1 Grilled lamb cutlets (côtelettes d’agneau 236
grillées) 26 Hamburg or Vienna steak 258
2 Mixed grill 236 Braised beef dishes
3 Lamb kebabs (shish kebab) 237 27 Carbonnade of beef 259

4 Lamb satay 238 28 Beef bourguignon 260

5 Grilled loin or chump chops, or noisettes of 239 29 Braised beef (boeuf braisé) 261
lamb Steamed/boiled beef dishes
Fried lamb dishes 30 Boiled silverside, carrots and dumplings 263
6 Lamb rosettes with thyme and blueberries 239 31 Steak pudding 264
7 Noisettes of lamb with baby ratatouille 240 Beef stew dishes
8 Lamb valentine steaks with fresh pea 240 32 Goulash 266
hummus
Baked beef dishes
9 Samosas 241
33 Cornish pasties 267
Braised lamb dishes
34 Steak pie 268
10 Braised lamb chump chops (chop d’agneau 243
braisées) Roast beef dishes
11 Braised lamb shanks 244 35 Roast wing of beef 270
12 Hot pot of lamb or mutton 245 36 Yorkshire pudding 271
Lamb stews 37 Slow-cooked sirloin with lyonnaise onions 272
and carrot purée
13 Brown lamb or mutton stew 246
Fried veal dishes
14 Irish stew 247
38 Escalope of veal 273
Roast lamb dishes
39 Breadcrumbed veal escalope with ham and 274
15 Roast leg of lamb with mint, lemon and cumin 248 cheese (escalope de veau cordon bleu)
16 Roast saddle of lamb with rosemary mash 249 40 Veal escalope with Parma ham and 275
17 Best end of lamb with breadcrumbs and 250 mozzarella cheese (involtini di vitello)
parsley Braised veal dishes
18 Slow-cooked shoulder of lamb with potatoes 251 41 Fricassée of veal 276
boulangère
42 Braised shin of veal (osso buco) 278
19 Pot-roast shoulder of lamb with gratin 252
forcemeat Fried pork dishes
Lamb combined cooking 43 Pork escalope with calvados sauce 279
20 Shepherd’s pie 253 44 Sweet and sour pork 280
Grilled beef dishes 45 Stir-fried pork fillet 281
21 Grilled beef 254 Braised pork dishes
22 Hamburger, American style 254 46 Sauerkraut, ham hock and lentils 281

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Boiled pork dishes Cured meat


47 Boiled bacon 284 54 Meat cured in brine (saumure) 288
Roast pork dishes Offal dishes
48 Roast leg of pork 284 55 Calf’s liver and bacon (foie de veau au lard) 289
49 Roast pork belly with shallots and champ 285 56 Grilled lambs’ kidneys (rognons grillés) 290
potatoes
57 Devilled lambs’ kidneys 290
50 Slow-roast belly of pork 286
58 Braised calf’s cheeks with vegetables 291
51 Sage and onion dressing for pork 286
59 Braised oxtail (ragoût de queue de boeuf) 292
52 Spare ribs in barbecue sauce 287
60 Shallow-fried lambs’ sweetbreads 293
53 Roast joint of bacon 288

Meat Quality points when choosing


Butcher’s meat used today is largely a product of selective and buying meat
breeding and feeding techniques – animals are reared Meat is a natural product and therefore not uniform,
carefully to reach high standards and meet specific needs. varying in quality from carcass to carcass. Flavour, texture
Present-day demand is for lean and tender meat – modern and appearance are determined by the type of animal and
cattle, sheep and pigs are well-fleshed yet compact the way it has been fed.
creatures, and there is an increase in use of specific-named
breeds on restaurant tables. There is no reason to think that flavour is obtained only in
meat that possesses a higher proportion of fat, although fat
Full information on meat, including cattle, sheep and pigs, does give a characteristic flavour to meat and helps to keep
can be found at: it moist during roasting. Neither is the colour of meat any
l www.qmscotland.co.uk guide to quality. Consumers are inclined to choose light-
l www.eblex.org.uk coloured meat – bright-red beef, for example – because
l www.bpex.org.uk. they think that it will be fresher than an alternative dark-
red piece. Freshly butchered beef is bright red because the
The structure of meat pigment in the tissues, myoglobin, has been chemically
affected by the oxygen in the air. After several hours the
Meat and its fat content varies considerably. The fat is found
colour changes to dark red or brown as the pigment is
round the outside of meat, in marbling (the white flecks of
further oxidised to become metamyoglobin. The colour of
fat throughout the lean muscle) and inside the meat fibres.
fat can vary from almost pure white in lamb to bright yellow
The visible fat (saturated) should be trimmed off as much as
in beef. Colour depends on the feed, on the breed and, to a
possible before cooking.
certain extent, on the time of year.
To cook meat properly it is important to understand its
The most useful guide to tenderness and quality is
structure:
knowledge of the cuts of meat and their location on the
l Meat comprises fibres bound by connective tissue.
carcass. The various cuts are described below, but in
l Connective tissue (elastin) is yellow and collagen white.
principle the leanest and most tender cuts – the prime
l Yellow tissue needs to be removed.
cuts – come from the hindquarters. The coarse cuts –
l Small fibres are present in tender cuts and younger
meat from the neck, legs and forequarters; those parts of
animals.
the animal that have had plenty of muscular exercise and
l Coarser fibres are present in tougher cuts and older
where fibres have become hardened – provide meat for
animals.
braising and stewing. Many consider these cuts to have
l Fat assists in providing flavour and moistens meat
more flavour, although they require slow cooking to make
during roasting and grilling.
them tender. The meat from young animals is generally
l Tenderness, flavour and moistness are increased if meat
more tender.
is hung after slaughter and before being used.
Animals may be injected before slaughter with an enzyme,
such as papin, which softens the fibres and muscles.
This speeds up a natural process: meat contains its own

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Meat and offal 10

enzymes that gradually break down the protein cell walls Canning
as the carcass ages; that is why meat is hung for 10 to 20 Large quantities of meat are canned; corned beef is an
days in controlled conditions of temperature and humidity example with a very high protein content. Pork is used for
before being offered for sale. Meat that has been aged tinned luncheon meat. Ham cuts are also available in cans.
longer is more expensive as the cost of refrigeration is high
and the meat itself shrinks because of evaporation and the Salting
trimming of the outside hardened edges. The salt draws out moisture and creates an environment in
which bacteria find it difficult to multiply. If salted in cold
Kosher and halal meat weather (so that the meat does not spoil while the salt has
Meat that is sold as kosher or halal must have been time to take effect), salted meat can last for years. Salting is
slaughtered according to the food laws of Judaism (kosher) still used with bacon, before the meat is smoked, and hams.
or Islam (halal). It is also used for some beef products, for example dried
beef, corned beef and pastrami, which are made by soaking
Kosher slaughter is done by a quick, deep stroke across
beef in a 10 per cent salt water brine for several weeks. Meat
the throat with a sharp blade. This is considered painless,
can be pickled in brine; this method of preservation may be
causes unconsciousness within two seconds and is widely
applied to silverside, brisket and ox tongues.
recognised as the most humane method of slaughter
possible. The animal is bled completely, and the meat
soaked in suet and water to remove any residual blood, Preparing meat
because blood must not be consumed in a kosher diet. Refer to the sections on different types of meat below for
Halal slaughter is done by cutting the throat or piercing the further detail on preparation methods. The following food
hollow of the throat, causing a quick death with the least safety points should be taken into account to reduce the
pain possible. The blood is completely drained from the risk of cross-contamination when preparing meat:
carcass. Halal slaughter is preceded by a prayer. l When preparing uncooked meat, offal or poultry, and
then cooked food, or changing from one type of meat,
offal or poultry to another, equipment, working areas
Storing meat and utensils must be thoroughly cleaned or changed.
Meat that is chilled is kept at a temperature just above l Where colour-coded boards are used, it is essential to
freezing point in a controlled atmosphere. Meat should be always use the correct colour-coded boards for the
hung and stored between 0 °C and 1 °C. preparation of foods, and different ones for cooked
Chilled meat cannot be kept in the usual type of cold room foods.
l Clean all work surfaces with detergent and sanitiser
for more than a few days, although sufficient time must be
allowed for the meat to hang, enabling it to become tender. to kill bacteria. This is particularly important when
Beef can be stored for up to three weeks, veal for one to handling poultry and pork.
three weeks, lamb for 10 to 15 days, and pork 7 to 14 days. For information on maintaining a safe and secure working
environment; a professional and hygienic appearance; and
Health and safety clean food production areas, equipment and utensils, as
Store uncooked meat, offal and poultry on trays to well as food hygiene, please refer to Chapters 1 and 3.
prevent dripping, ideally in separate refrigerators, at
a temperature of 1 °C to 4 °C. If separate refrigerators
are not available, then store in separate areas of the Cooking meat
refrigerator, with uncooked meat at the bottom and Meat is an extremely versatile product that can be cooked
cooked meat above it. in a multitude of ways and matched with practically any
vegetable, fruit and herb. The cut (shin, steak, brisket and
Other preservation methods so on), the method of cooking (roasting, braising, grilling)
and the time and temperature all affect the way the meat
Freezing
will taste.
Small carcasses, such as lamb and mutton, can be frozen
without affecting their quality. They can be kept frozen until Raw meat is difficult to chew because the muscle fibre
required and then thawed out before being used. Some contains an elastic protein (collagen), which is softened only
beef is frozen, but it is inferior in quality to chilled beef. by mincing – as in steak tartare – or by cooking. When you

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cook meat, the protein gradually coagulates as the internal to its strength; collagen (the main muscle proteins, which
temperature increases. At 77 °C coagulation is complete, the amount to the highest proportion of mass in the muscle)
protein begins to harden and further cooking makes the is tough and chewy. Meat that has a higher proportion of
meat tougher. both, usually from the major and highly worked muscle
groups, would not be suitable for prime cooking (e.g. grilling
Professional tip or frying). However, these cuts of meat may be cooked for
Meat bones are useful for giving flavour to soups and longer at the correct temperature (braising), dissolving the
stocks, especially beef ones with plenty of marrow. Veal collagen as it is water soluble, forming gelatine and offering
bones are gelatinous and help to enrich and thicken a tasty joint of meat.
soups and sauces. Fat can be rendered down for frying
or used as an ingredient, such as suet or lard used in Prime cuts, such as beef fillets, have little collagen in their
pastry. make-up (approximately 3 per cent) and do not require
long cooking to tenderise them. Although most chefs
would adopt a high temperature for a short period on the
Time and temperature in meat prime cuts, this does not always lead to a perfect result. Due
cookery to the lack of fat and collagen in such cuts of meat, high
Since tenderness combined with flavour is the aim in heat will dry out the muscle fibres and, consequently, the
meat cookery, much depends on the ratio of time and eating quality is impaired. A lower temperature and longer
temperature. In principle, slow cooking retains the juices in the oven will produce a gradual heat, therefore there is
and produces a more tender result than fast cooking at high less extreme coagulation in the tissues and less fluid will be
temperatures. There are, of course, occasions when high squeezed out in the process.
temperatures are essential: for instance, you need to grill a
Sirloin of beef has more collagen than fillet (it is essentially
steak under a hot flame for a very limited time to obtain
a worked muscle group) and is generally cooked on
a crisp, brown surface and a pink, juicy interior – using a
a high heat, either roasted or pan-fried. Using a slow
low temperature would not give you the desired result. But,
cooking method, however, you can prepare sirloin that
in potentially tough cuts, such as breast, or where there is
is extremely tender, full of moisture, with a roasted outer
a quantity of connective tissue (e.g. neck of lamb), a slow
and a flavoursome roasted meat taste. An average sirloin
rate of cooking converts the tissues to gelatine and helps to
joint for roasting can weigh from 2 kg to 5 kg whole off the
make the meat more tender. Meat containing bone will take
bone. The method is to seal the meat on the outside, as
longer to cook because bone is a poor conductor of heat.
you would normally, place into a preheated oven at 180 °C,
Tough or coarse cuts of meat should be cooked by braising, cook for 10 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 64 °C
pot roasting or stewing. Marinating in a suitable marinade, (the oven door will need to be open at this stage). Once
such as wine and wine vinegar, helps to tenderise the meat the oven has come down to 64 °C, close the door and cook
and imparts an additional flavour. Searing meat in hot fat or for a further 1 hour and 50 minutes. This will give you an
in a hot oven before roasting or stewing helps to produce extremely tender piece of sirloin.
a crisp exterior by coagulating the protein but does not,
To maintain the quality and safety of meat and poultry
as is widely supposed, seal in the juices. However, if the
dishes, it is advisable to check internal temperatures using
external temperature is too high and cooking prolonged,
a probe. The recommended temperatures are shown in
rapid evaporation and contraction of the meat will cause
Table 10.1.
considerable loss of juices and fat. Salt sprinkled on meat
before cooking will also hasten loss of moisture since salt Table 10.1 Recommended internal temperatures
absorbs water. Meat Recommended internal temperature
When fibrous proteins are heated they contract and Beef rare 52 °C, medium 57 °C, well done 62 °C
squeeze out the associated water. For example, when a Duck pink 57 °C; well done 62 °C
steak is cooked the proteins contract, therefore squeezing Lamb pink 57 °C, well done 62 °C
out all the water/juices. If the heat is increased or continues,
Pork 73 °C
the steak will become dry and the eating quality will be
Turkey/chicken 77 °C
impaired. Cuts of meat also contain elastin and collagen:
elastin (the muscle group associated with tendons and Veal 62 °C
arteries) is extremely stretchy and further cooking adds Environmental health officers may require higher temperatures.

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The Maillard reaction Quality points


A series of chemical reactions, known as the Maillard l Good-quality lamb should have fine, white fat, with pink
reaction, happen when proteins are heated with sugars flesh where freshly cut; in mutton the flesh is a deeper
to temperatures above 140 °C. This is why a good flavour colour.
develops when meat cooks. l A good-quality animal should be compact and evenly
Always ensure that the outside of the meat is cooked at a fleshed.
high temperature (until it is a dark brown colour), in order l The lean flesh should be firm, of a pleasing dull-red
to develop the flavour. Cook meats with little connective colour and of a fine texture or grain.
tissue for only a short time. Seal the outside so that it is l There should be an even distribution of surface fat,
browned and so that the inside does not become tough which should be hard, brittle and flaky in structure and
(e.g. by grilling, frying or roasting). a clear white colour.
l In a young animal the bones should be pink and
Meats with lots of connective tissue should be cooked
porous, so that when cut a degree of blood is shown
for longer so that all the connective tissue breaks down
in their structure. As the sheep grows older, the bones
and the bundles of coagulated muscle proteins fall apart,
become hard, dense and white, and inclined to splinter
tenderising the meat (e.g. by stewing or braising).
when chopped.

Lamb and mutton Portions and cuts


Lamb is the meat from a sheep under a year old; above that
As a guide, when ordering allow approximately 100 g
age the animal is called a ‘hogget’ and its meat becomes
meat off the bone per portion, and 150 g on the bone per
mutton. The lamb carcass provides smaller cuts of more
portion. It must be clearly understood, however, that the
tender meat than mutton. Mutton needs to be well ripened
weights given can only be approximate. They must vary
by long hanging before cooking and, as it is usually fatty,
according to the quality of the meat and also according
needs a good deal of trimming as well.
to the purpose for which the meat is being butchered. For
Lamb has a very thin, parchment-like covering on the carcass, example, a chef will often cut differently from a shop butcher
known as the ‘fell’, which is usually left on roasts to help them (a chef frequently needs to consider the presentation of the
maintain their shape during cooking. It should, however, be particular joint, while the butcher is more often concerned
removed from chops. The flesh of a younger lamb is usually with economical cutting). In the text that follows, simple
more tender. A good way to judge age is through weight orders of dissection are given for each carcass. In general,
– especially with legs of lamb: the highest quality weighs bones need to be removed only when preparing joints, so
about 2.3 kg and never more than 4 kg. Smaller chops are as to facilitate carving. The bones are used for stock and the
also more tender and, therefore, more expensive. excess fat can be rendered down for second-class dripping.

Professional tip
Mutton fell out of favour in the UK for some years but
2 2
has recently become more popular, backed by the 4 7
Mutton Renaissance campaign, which was supported 6
5 1 2
by several well-known chefs and the Prince of Wales.
Using mutton is good for food sustainability – because 3 7
the animals are not killed young they are larger than
lambs and have a higher yield.
6

5 4 4
6 7 2
1 5
3

Joints of lamb, viewed from different angles – see


Table 10.2 for an explanation of the numbers

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Table 10.2 Lamb and mutton joints, their uses and weights
Health and safety
Approx. weight (kg)
Wear a safety apron for protection when using a boning
Joint Uses Lamb Mutton knife. If you are doing a great deal of boning then
Whole 16 25 consider protective gloves as well.
carcass
Shoulder (1) Roasting, stewing 3 4.5
Video: making
Leg (2) Roasting (mutton 3.5 5.5 brown lamb
boiled) stew
http://bit.ly/
Breast (3) Roasting, stewing 1.5 2.5
1CIMkfD
Middle neck Stewing 2 3
(4)
Knuckle bone
Scrag-end Stewing, broth 0.5 1
(5) Upper arm bone
Best end/ Roasting, grilling, 2 3
rack (6) frying
Saddle (7) Roasting, grilling, 3.5 5.5
frying Blade bone

The order of dissection of a lamb carcass:


1 Remove the shoulders.
2 Remove the breasts.
3 Remove the middle neck and scrag.
4 Remove the legs.
5 Divide the saddle from the best end.
Table 10.3 Common cooking methods for lamb
Joint Methods of cookery
Saddle Roast, pot roast Shoulder of lamb, showing three bones
Loin Roast
Fillet Grill, fry Preparing breasts of lamb
l Remove excess fat and skin.
Loin chop Grill, fry, stew, braise
l For roasting: bone, stuff and roll; tie with string.
Chump chop Grill, fry, stew, braise
l For stewing: cut into even 25–50 g pieces.
Kidney Grill, sauté
Preparing middle neck
For stewing: remove excess fat, excess bone and
Preparing a shoulder of lamb l
gristle; cut into even 50 g pieces; this joint, when
l Boning: remove the blade bone and upper arm bone
correctly butchered, can give good uncovered second-
(see diagram) and tie with string; the shoulder may be
class cutlets.
stuffed before tying.
l Cutting for stews: bone out, cut into even 25–50 g
pieces.
Preparing scrag-end
l For roasting: remove the pelvic or aitchbone; clean l For stewing: this can be chopped down the centre,
and trim the knucklebone so as to leave approximately the excess bone, fat and gristle removed, and cut into
3 cm of clean bone; trim off excess fat and tie with even 50 g pieces, or boned out and cut into pieces.
string if necessary.

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Preparing a saddle of lamb Preparing lamb chops


The saddle may be divided as follows: l Loin chops: skin the loin, remove the excess fat and
l remove the skin, starting from head to tail and from sinew, then cut into chops approximately 100–150 g in
breast to back weight. A first-class loin chop should have a piece of
l split down the centre of the backbone to produce two kidney skewered in the centre.
loins l Double loin chop (Barnsley chop): these are cut
l each loin can be roasted whole, boned and stuffed, or approximately 2 cm across a saddle on the bone. When
cut into loin and chump chops. trimmed they are secured with a skewer and may
include a piece of kidney in the centre of each chop.
A full saddle is illustrated below. For large banquets it is
l Chump chops: these are cut from the chump end of
sometimes better to remove the chumps and use short
the loin. Cut into approximately 150 g chops and trim
saddles. Saddles may also be boned and stuffed.
where necessary.
l Noisettes: this is a cut from a boned-out loin. Cut
slantwise into approximately 2 cm thick slices, bat out
slightly, and trim into a cutlet shape.
l Rosettes: this is a cut from a boned-out loin
approximately 2 cm thick. It is shaped round and tied
with string.
l Valentine: this is a cut from a boned-out loin. Cut
slantwise into approximately 4 cm thick slices, then
cut in half through top, about two-thirds through but
keeping the meat connected at bottom, and fold out
into heart shape (often called a butterfly cut).

Saddle of lamb
If the saddle is to be roasted:
l skin and remove the kidney
l trim the excess fat and sinew
l cut off the flaps, leaving about 15 cm each side so as to
meet in the middle under the saddle
l remove the aitch, or pelvic, bone
l score neatly and tie with string.

For presentation the tail may be left on, protected with foil
and tied back. The saddle can also be completely boned,
stuffed and tied.
Lamb loin chops
Preparing a loin of lamb
If the loin is to be roasted:
l skin and remove excess fat and sinew
l remove the pelvic bone and tie with string.

If the loin is to be boned and stuffed:


l remove the skin, excess fat and sinew
l bone out
l replace the fillet, season and stuff if required, and tie Left to right: rosette, valentine, noisette, Barnsley (double
with string. loin) chop

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Preparing a best end (rack) of lamb

1 Remove the bark/skin, working 2 Mark or score the fat, 2 cm from 3 Score down the middle of the
from head to tail and from breast the end of the bones. back of each bone, scoring the
to back. Leave as much fat as cartilage.
possible on the joint.

4 Pull the skin fat and meat from the 5 Remove the elastin as shown, then 6 Trim the overall length of the
bone (to bring out the bone ends clean the sinew from between the bones to two and a half times the
– this is an alternative to scraping rib bones. length of the nut of meat. Score
them). the fat neatly to approximately
2 mm deep and tie the joint.

To make the best end into cutlets, prepare as for roasting,


excluding the scoring, and divide evenly between the
bones. Alternatively, the cutlets can be cut from the best
end and prepared separately.
A single cutlet consists of one bone, and a double cutlet
two bones, so a six-bone best end yields six single or three
double cutlets.

Lamb cutlets

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Carving and serving roast lamb Roast loin


l On the bone: proceed as for the saddle.
Roast leg l Boned-out: cut in slices across the joint; the slices are
Holding the bone, carve with a sharp knife at an angle of 45 cut slightly thicker when stuffed.
degrees and take off each slice as it is cut. Continue in this
manner along the joint, turning it from side to side as the
Roast best end (rack)
slices get wider.
Divide into cutlets by cutting between bones.

Shoulder Service
To obtain reasonable-sized slices of meat, carve the flesh
All roast joints are served garnished with watercress and a
side, not the skin side, of the joint. Having obtained the
sauceboat of roast gravy separately. When carved, serve a
slices, carve round the bones. Due to the awkward shape
little gravy over the slices as well as offering a sauceboat
of the bone structure, the shoulder is normally boned out,
of gravy. Mint sauce should be served with roast lamb
rolled and tied before cooking to facilitate carving.
and redcurrant jelly should be available. For roast mutton,
redcurrant jelly and/or onion sauce should be served, with
Roast saddle mint sauce available.
l Carving on the bone: there are two usual ways of
carving the saddle, one is by carving lengthways either
side of the backbone, the other by making a deep cut Beef
lengthwise either side of the backbone and then slicing Quality points
across each loin. It is usual to carve the saddle in thick
l The lean meat should be bright red with small flecks of
slices.
white fat (marbled).
l Carving off the bone: for economical kitchen carving
l The fat should be firm, brittle in texture, creamy-white
it is often best to bone the loins out whole, carve into
in colour and odourless. Older animals and dairy breeds
slices, then reform on the saddle bone.
have fat that is usually a deeper-yellow colour.
l The fillets may be left on the saddle or removed; in
either case they are carved and served with the rest of
the meat. Butchery
A side of beef weighs approximately 180 kg. A whole side is
divided between the wing ribs and the fore ribs.

3 underneath
Video: beef
hindquarter
joints
http://bit.ly/
2 6 7 10 11 12 13
5 1G36Ecv
4 8
1 16
14 15

17

A side of beef
3 underneath 1 Shin 9A Fat and kidney
2 Topside 10 Fore rib
3 Silverside 11 Middle rib
9
7
4 Thick flank 12 Chuck rib
2 5 9A 5 Rump 13 Sticking piece
4 6
1
6 Sirloin 14 Plate
8
7 Wing ribs 15 Brisket
8 Thin flank 16 Leg of mutton cut
A hindquarter of beef in more detail 9 Fillet 17 Shank

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Dissection of a hindquarter of beef Dissection of a forequarter of beef


1 Remove the rump suet and kidney. 1 Remove the shank.
2 Remove the thin flank. 2 Divide in half down the centre.
3 Divide the loin and rump from the leg (topside, 3 Take off the fore ribs.
silverside, thick flank and shin). 4 Divide into joints.
4 Remove the fillet.
Table 10.5 Joints, uses and weights of a forequarter of beef
5 Divide the rump from the sirloin.
6 Remove the wing ribs. Approx.
7 Remove the shin. Joint Uses weight (kg)
8 Bone out the aitchbone. Fore rib Roasting and braising 8
9 Divide the leg into the three remaining joints (silverside, Middle rib Roasting and braising 10
topside and thick flank). Chuck rib Stewing and braising 15
Table 10.4 Joints, uses and weights of a hindquarter of beef Sticking Stewing and sausages 9
piece
Approx.
Joint Uses weight (kg) Plate Stewing and sausages 10
Shin Consommé, beef tea, stewing 7 Brisket Pickled in brine and boiled, 19
pressed beef
Topside Braising, stewing, second- 10
class roasting Leg of Braising and stewing 11
mutton
Silverside Pickled in brine then boiled 14
cut
Thick flank Braising and stewing 12
Shank Consommé, beef tea 6
Rump Grilling and frying as steaks, 10
braised in the piece
Sirloin Roasting, grilling and frying in
steaks
9
Preparing cuts of beef
The cuts of beef vary considerably, from very tender fillet
Wing ribs Roasting, grilling and frying in 5
steaks
steak through to tough brisket or shin, and there is a
greater variety of cuts in beef than for any other type of
Thin flank Stewing, boiling, sausages 10
meat. While their names may vary, there are 14 primary
Fillet Roasting, grilling and frying in 3 cuts from a side of beef, each one composed of muscle, fat,
steaks
bone and connective tissue. The least developed muscles,
Fat and Fat: rendered for frying and 10 usually from the inner areas, can be roasted or grilled, while
kidney basting, using in pastry leaner and more sinewy meat is cut from the more highly
Kidney: pies, puddings, developed external muscles. Exceptions are rib and loin
braising cuts, which come from external but basically immobile
muscles.
Knowing where the cuts come from helps to designate the
Preparing joints from a hindquarter of cooking method.
beef l Fillet is taken from the back of the animal; this is the
l Shin: bone out, remove excess sinew; cut or chop as most tender part, cut from the centre of the sirloin. It is
required. usually cut into steaks and can be fried or grilled.
l Topside: for roasting and braising remove excess fat, l Sirloin is either roasted as a joint or cut into boneless
cut into joints and tie with string; for stewing cut into steaks; it is more tender than rump but not as tender as
dice or steaks as required. fillet. Sirloin steaks are suitable for grilling or frying.
l Silverside: remove the thigh bone; this joint is usually l Rump is a good-quality cut though it is less tender
kept whole and pickled in brine prior to boning. than fillet or sirloin. It is suitable for roasting, grilling or
l Thick flank: as for topside. frying.
l Rump: bone out; cut off the first outside slice for pies l Rib is sold on the bone or unboned and rolled. It is
and puddings. Cut into approximately 1.5 cm slices for suitable for roasting.
steaks. The point steak – considered the most tender – l Topside is a lean, tender cut from the hindquarters. It is
is cut from the pointed end of the slice. suitable for braising or pot roasting.

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l Silverside is taken from the hindquarters; this is a l Porterhouse steaks: cut including the bone from the
cut from the round. It can be pot roasted or used for rib end of the sirloin.
traditional boiled beef. l T-bone steaks: cut from the rump end of the sirloin,
l Flank is a boneless cut from the mid-to-hindquarters; it including the bone and fillet.
is suitable for braising or stewing.
l Skirt is a boneless, rather gristly cut. It is usually stewed
or made into mince.
l Brisket is a cut from the fore end of the animal, below
the shoulder. Quite a fatty joint, it is sold on or off the
bone or salted. It is suitable for slow roasting.

T-bone steaks

Fillet
As a fillet of beef can vary from 2.5–4.5 kg it follows that
there must be considerable variation in the number of
Fillet and loin of beef steaks obtained from it. In this list of the different fillet
steaks, it is assumed that a 3 kg fillet is used.
Sirloin l Chateaubriand: double fillet steak 3 to 10 cm thick,
If the sirloin is to be roasted whole on the bone (l’aloyau de two to four portions (average weight 300 g to 1 kg). Cut
boeuf): from the head of the fillet, trim off all the nerves and
l Saw through the chine bone. leave a little fat on the steak.
l Lift back the covering fat in one piece for approximately l Fillet steaks: approximately four steaks of 100 to
10 cm. 150 g each, 1.5 to 2 cm thick. These are trimmed as for
l Trim off the sinew and replace the covering fat. chateaubriand.
l Tie with string if necessary. l Tournedos: approximately six to eight at 100 g each, 2
l Ensure that the fillet has been removed. to 4 cm thick. Continue cutting down the fillet. Remove
all the nerve and fat tissue, and tie each tournedos with
To roast the whole sirloin boned out:
string.
l Remove the fillet and bone out the sirloin. Remove the
l Tail of fillet is another possible cut. The tail of a 3 kg fillet
sinew.
will weigh approximately 0.5 kg. Remove all fat and sinew,
l Remove the excess fat and sinew from the boned side.
and slice or mince as required. This cut is useful for dishes
l This joint may be roasted open or rolled and tied with
that need small pieces of tender beef, such as stir-fries.
string.
Middle Head
Sirloin may be cut into various steaks for grilling or frying: Tournedos, fillet Chateaubriand
l Minute steaks: cut into 1 cm slices, flatten with a cutlet steak whole joint fillet steaks
Tail
bat dipped in water, making as thin as possible, then Mignon
trim.
l Sirloin steaks (entrecôte): cut into 1 cm-thick slices
and trim (approximate weight 150 g).
l Double sirloin steaks: cut into 2 cm-thick slices and
Cuts of fillet of beef
trim (approximate weight 250–300 g).

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The whole fillet may be roasted or pot roasted (poèlé). Wing rib (côte de boeuf)
Remove the head and tail of the fillet, leaving an even This joint usually consists of the last three rib bones, which,
centre piece from which all the nerve and fat is removed. because of their curved shape, act as a natural trivet.
This may be larded by inserting pieces of fat bacon, cut into Because of its prime quality it is a first-class roasting joint,
long strips, with a larding needle. hot or cold, particularly when it is to be carved in front of
the customer.

To prepare, the chine needs to be Cut seven-eighths of the way through Saw through the rib bones on the
removed from the joint the spine or chine bone and remove the underside, 5–10 cm from the end, to
nerve finish removing the chine

Trim and clean the top bone Remove the elastin Tie the bone firmly back with string; it will
act as a trivet

Fore ribs and middle ribs from the forequarter are prepared 2 Seasoning: add salt and pepper, and brush lightly
in the same way as wing rib. with oil before placing on the barbecue. Take care
when using marinades as some may contain glucose,
Other cuts which burns easily. Try marinating with wine and herbs;
l Thin flank from the hindquarter: trim off excessive fat avoid marinating oils, which may ignite and spoil the
and cut or roll as required. barbecue.
l Chuck ribs, sticking piece, brisket, plate, leg 3 Choice and preparation of barbecue: gas is the
of mutton cut and shank are all cuts from the preferred choice for temperature control. Allow time
forequarter. Bone out, remove excess fat and sinew, and to preheat the barbecue (30 minutes for gas, 1½ hours
use as required. for charcoal). If cooking on charcoal, always wait for
the flames to go out and the embers to start glowing
Barbecue cooking before starting to cook.
– Secure a layer of tinfoil over the barbecue.
1 Choice of meat: some fat is required for flavour, but
– Wait until the grill bars are hot or the charcoal
not too much. Ensure size and thickness are uniform
embers glow.
to allow even cooking. Suitable cuts include: T-bone
– Remove tin foil and brush the grill bars with a firm,
steaks, rib steaks, double lamb chops and noisettes,
long-handled wire brush to remove any unwanted
well-trimmed pork cutlets and steaks.
debris.

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4 Cooking: place the seasoned and lightly oiled meat at When using a temperature probe, insert it into the part
a 45° angle on the barbecue and seal one side. Rotate of the meat that was thickest before the food was placed
through another 45°, allow to cook, then turn the meat under the grill. The internal temperature reached should be
and repeat the process: this creates attractive markings as follows:
on the meat. Control the temperature and do not let l rare: 45–50 °C
the meat burn or blacken unnecessarily. Only cook as l medium: 55–60 °C
much meat as required at one time; if left for too long l well done: 75–77 °C.
it will dry out and become tough. Use a meat probe
You can also check how well done grilled meat is by using
to ensure the desired internal temperature is reached.
finger pressure. The springiness, or resilience, of the meat
‘Made-up’ items such as burgers and sausages must be
and the amount of blood issuing from it indicates the
cooked thoroughly to the centre.
degree to which it is cooked. This calls for experience, but
5 Serve with fresh, crisp vegetables or salads and
if the meat is placed on a plate and tested, then the more
traditional barbecue dips and sauces.
underdone the steak, the greater the springiness and the
more blood will be shown on the plate.
Health and safety
Burgers and sausages should be cut open, checked
and cooked for longer if necessary. Barbecued food Veal
may look well cooked when it isn’t. Veal is obtained from good-quality carcasses weighing
around 100 kg. This quality of veal is required for first-
Testing whether beef is cooked class cookery and is produced from calves slaughtered at
between 12 and 24 weeks.
Roast joints Veal is available all year round.
When using a temperature probe, insert it into the part of
the joint that was thickest before the food was placed in
the oven. The internal temperature reached should be as Quality points
follows: l The flesh should be pale pink in colour and firm in
l rare meat: 55–60 °C structure – not soft or flabby.
l medium done: 66–71 °C l Cut surfaces should be slightly moist, not dry.
l well done: 78–80 °C. l Bones, in young animals, should be pinkish white,
To test without a temperature probe: porous and with a degree of blood in their structure.
l remove the joint from the oven and place on a plate or
l The fat should be firm and pinkish white.
dish l The kidney should be firm and well covered with fat.
l firmly press the surface of the meat so that some juice Where applicable, when offering veal on a menu, give the
issues origin and breed of the veal.
l check the colour of the juice: red indicates the meat is
underdone; pink indicates the meat is medium done;
clear indicates that the meat is cooked through.
The veal carcass
The average weight of English or Dutch milk-fed veal calves
is 18 kg. The joints of veal are shown in the diagram and
Grilled beef
Table 10.6.
The degrees of cooking for grilled meat are:
l very rare (or blue): cooked over a fierce heat for a few The order of dissection for a veal carcass is as follows:
seconds on each side 1 Remove the shoulders.
l rare: the cooked meat has a reddish tinge 2 Remove the breast.
l medium: the cooked meat is slightly pinkish 3 Take off the leg.
l well done: thoroughly cooked with no sign of pinkness. 4 Divide the loin and best end from the scrag and neck
end.
5 Divide the loin from the best end.

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6
7 4
3 2
5
1

A side of veal – see Table 10.6 for an explanation of the numbers


Table 10.6 Uses and weights of veal joints and offal 5 When the boned leg falls open, the three joints can
Approx. easily be seen joined only by membrane. Separate and
Joint Uses weight (kg) trim the cushion, removing the loose flap of meat.
6 Trim the under cushion, removing the layer of thick
Knuckle (1) Osso buco, sauté, stock 2
gristle. Separate into three small joints through the
Leg (2) Roasting, braising, 5
natural seams. It will be seen that one of these will
escalopes, sauté
correspond with the round in silverside of beef.
Loin (3) Roasting, frying, grilling 3.5 7 Trim the thick flank by laying it on its round side and
Best end (4) Roasting, frying, grilling 3 making a cut along the length about 2.5 cm deep.
Shoulder (5) Braising, stewing 5 A seam is reached and the two trimmings can be
Neck end (6) Stewing, sauté 2.5 removed.
Scrag (7) Stewing, stock 1.5 The anticipated yield of escalopes from this size of leg
Breast (8) Stewing, roasting 2.5 would be 6.25 kg, that is, 55 × 100 g or 75 × 80 g, serving 1
Kidneys Stewing (pies and – or 2 escalopes per portion.
puddings), sauté
Liver Frying –
Sweetbreads Braising, frying – B
Under
Head Boiling, soup 4 cushion
A Cushion
Brains Boiling, frying –
Thick
Bones Stock – Cushion flank
Under
cushion
Thick
Dissecting a leg of veal Aitchbone flank
C
1 Remove the knuckle by dividing the knee joint (at A on D
the diagram) and cut through the meat away from the Dissection of a leg of veal
cushion line (from A to B).
2 Remove the aitchbone at thick end of the leg,
separating it at the ball and socket joint. Preparing joints and cuts of veal
3 Remove all the outside skin and fat, thus exposing the Shin
natural seams. It will now be seen that the thigh bone
l For stewing (on the bone; osso buco): cut and saw into
divides the meat into two-thirds and one-third (thick
2–4 cm thick slices through the knuckle.
flank).
l For sauté: bone out and trim, then cut into even 25 g
4 Stand the leg on the thick flank with point D (on the
pieces.
diagram) uppermost. Divide the cushion from the
under cushion, following the natural seam, using the
hand and the point of a knife. Having reached the thigh
Leg
l For braising or roasting whole: remove the aitch bone,
bone, remove it completely.
clean and trim 4 cm off the knuckle bone. Trim off the
excess sinew.

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Table 10.7 Joints of a leg of veal


Cuts Weight Proportion Uses Corresponding
joint in beef
Cushion or nut 2.75 kg 15% Escalopes, roasting, braising, sauté Topside
Under cushion or under nut 3 kg 17% Escalopes, roasting, braising, sauté Silverside
Thick flank 2.5 kg 14% Escalopes, roasting, braising, sauté Thick flank
Knuckle (whole) 2.5 kg 14% Osso buco, sauté
Bones (thigh and aitch) 2.5 kg 14% Stock, jus-lié, sauces
Usable trimmings 2 kg 11% Pies, stewing

l To braise or roast the nut: remove all the sinew; if there


is insufficient fat on the joint then bard (tie fat around it,
for example, bacon) thinly and secure with string.
l Escalopes: remove all the sinew, cut into large 50–75 g
slices against the grain and bat out thinly.
l For sauté: remove all the sinew and cut into 25 g pieces.

Loin and best end


l For roasting: bone out and trim the flap, roll out and
secure with string. This joint may be stuffed before rolling.
l For frying: trim and cut into cutlets. Veal escalopes

Boning a loin of veal

The loin Using a boning knife, carefully remove The joint and the fillet
the fillet

Bring the loin down from the rib to the Trim the excess fat and sinew from the The fillet, boned loin and bones (which
backbone, and trim the rib bones meat can be used for stock)

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Shoulder Table 10.8 Joints, uses and weights of pork


l For braising: bone out as for lamb; usually stuffed. Approx.
l For stewing: bone out, remove all the sinew and cut Joint Uses weight (kg)
into 25 g pieces. Leg Roasting, boiling 5
Loin Roasting, frying, grilling 6
Neck end and scrag Spare rib Roasting, pies 1.5
For stewing or sauté: bone out and remove all the sinew;
Belly Pickling, boiling, stuffed, 2
cut into approximately 25 g pieces.
rolled and roasted
Shoulder Roasting, sausages, pies 3
Breast
Head Brawn 4
l For stewing: as for neck end.
l For roasting: bone out, season, stuff and roll up, then tie Trotters Grilling, boiling
with string. Kidneys Sauté, grilling
Liver Frying, pâté
Pork
The keeping quality of pork is less than that of other meat; At five to six weeks old a piglet is known as a sucking or
therefore it must be handled, prepared and cooked with suckling pig. Its weight is then between 5 and 10 kg.
great care. Pork should always be well cooked, reaching at The order of dissection for a pig carcass is:
least 75 °C in the centre. 1 Remove the head.
Where applicable, name the origin and breed of the pork 2 Remove the trotters.
(e.g. Gloucester Old Spot, Tamworth) on the menu. 3 Remove the leg.
4 Remove the shoulder.
5 Remove the spare ribs.
Quality points 6 Divide the loin from the belly.
l Lean flesh should be pale pink, firm and of a fine

l
texture.
The fat should be white, firm, smooth and not excessive.
Preparing joints and cuts of pork
l Bones should be small, fine and pinkish. Leg
l The skin or rind should be smooth. l For roasting: remove the pelvic or aitch bone, trim and
score the rind neatly – that is, with a sharp-pointed knife
The pork carcass make a series of 3 mm-deep incisions approximately
2 cm apart all over the skin of the joint; trim and clean
The cuts of pork are shown in the diagram below and their the knuckle bone.
uses in Table 10.8. l For boiling: it is usual to pickle the joint either by
rubbing dry salt and saltpetre (potassium nitrate) into
1 Leg
the meat or by soaking it in a brine solution (see recipe
2 3 2 Loin
6
21);
3 Spare ribremove
then of neck the pelvic bone, trim and secure with
1 4 Belly
string if necessary.
4 5 5 Shoulder
6 Head
Loin
1 Leg l For roasting (on the bone): saw down the chine
2 Loin
2 3
3 Spare rib of neck
bone in order to facilitate carving; trim the excess fat
6
4 Belly and sinew and score the rind in the direction that the
4 5 5 Shoulder
6 Head
joint will be carved; season and secure with string.
l For roasting (boned out): remove the fillets and
Pig carcass dissection bone out carefully; trim off the excess fat and sinew,
score the rind and neaten the flap. Season, replace the
filet mignon, roll up and secure the string. This joint is
sometimes stuffed.

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l Chops for grilling or frying: remove the skin, excess


fat and sinew, then cut and saw or chop through the
loin in approximately 1 cm-thick slices; remove the
excess bone and trim neatly.

Pork chops
Boned leg of pork
Spare rib
l For roasting: remove the excess fat, bone and sinew,
and trim neatly.
l For grilling: remove the excess fat, bone and sinew,
cut into individual ribs or leave as a rack, and marinade
for at least 2 hours.
l For pies: remove the excess fat and sinew, bone out
and cut as required.

Shoulder
l For roasting: the shoulder is usually boned out, the
excess fat and sinew removed, seasoned, scored and
rolled with string; it may be stuffed and can also be
divided into two smaller joints.
l For sausages or pies: skin, bone out and remove the
Loin of pork excess fat and sinew; cut into even pieces or mince.

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Belly

Boning a pork belly

Pork belly before it is prepared for Remove all the small rib bones Cut the fat
roasting

Score the fat Season with salt, pepper and chopped Roll and secure with string; this joint may
sage be stuffed

Bacon Quality
Bacon is the cured flesh of a bacon-weight pig that is l There should be no sign of stickiness.
specifically reared for bacon (because its shape and size l There should be a pleasant smell.
yield economic bacon joints). Bacon is cured either by dry l The rind should be thin, smooth and free from wrinkles.
salting and then smoking or by soaking in brine followed by l The fat should be white, smooth and not excessive in
smoking. Green bacon is brine-cured but not smoked; it has proportion to the lean meat.
a milder flavour but does not keep for as long as smoked l The lean meat should be a deep-pink colour and firm.
bacon.
Depending on the degree of salting during the curing
process, bacon joints may or may not require soaking in
cold water before being cooked.
Do not confuse ham with gammon. Ham is meat taken
from the carcass before salting or smoking and cooking,
where gammon is taken from the carcass after brining and
smoking.

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Preparing bacon joints and cuts Gammon


Cut fairly thick slices from the middle of the gammon. Trim
3 them and remove the rind. Slices of gammon are usually
1 grilled or fried.
5
2
4

1 Collar Grilling cuts


2 Hock
3 Back
4 Streaky
5 Gammon Gammon

A side of bacon
Table 10.9 Cuts, uses and weights of bacon
Approx. Gammon
Joint Uses weight (kg)
Collar Boiling, grilling 4.5
Hock Boiling, grilling 4.5
Back Grilling, frying 9
Streaky Grilling, frying 4.5
Gammon Boiling, grilling, frying 7.5

Collar
l For boiling: remove bone (if any) and tie with string.
l Rashers for grilling: remove the rind, trim off the
outside surface and cut into thin slices (rashers) across
the joint.

Gammon steaks
Hock
Leave whole or bone out and secure with string. The hock
is usually boiled. Offal and other edible
Back and streaky bacon
parts of the carcass
Offal is the name given to the edible parts taken from the
l Rashers for grilling: remove all bones and rind, and
inside of a carcass of meat, including the liver, kidneys, heart
cut into thin rashers.
and sweetbreads. Tripe, brains, tongue, head and oxtail are
l Rashers or chops for frying: remove the rind, trim off
also sometimes included under this term.
the outside surface and cut into rashers or chops of the
required thickness. Fresh offal (unfrozen) should be purchased as required
and can be refrigerated under hygienic conditions at a
temperature of 1–4 °C. Frozen offal must be kept in a deep
freeze at −18 °C or below, and defrosted in a refrigerator as
required.

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Preparing kidneys for grilling

Skin the kidneys, and remove any fat and gristle Split the kidney three-quarters of the way through, and open it
up

Lift up and cut out the white sinew in the centre Kidneys before, during and after preparation

Liver Preparing liver


Liver is low in fat, a good source of protein and iron, and also l Remove the skin if possible.
contains vitamins A and D. l Remove the gristle and tubes.
l Calf’s liver is considered the best in terms of l Cut into thin slices on the slant.
tenderness and flavour. It is also the most expensive.
l Lamb’s liver is mild in flavour, light in colour and tender. Kidneys
Sheep’s liver, being from an older animal, is firmer in
The nutritional value of kidney is similar to that of liver.
substance, deeper in colour and has a stronger flavour.
l Lamb’s kidneys are light in colour, delicate in flavour
l Ox or beef liver is the cheapest and, if taken from an
and ideal for grilling and frying.
older animal, can be coarse in texture and strong in
l Sheep’s kidneys are darker in colour and stronger in
flavour. It is usually braised.
flavour.
l Pig’s liver has a strong, full flavour and is used mainly
l Calf’s kidneys are light in colour, delicate in flavour
for pâté recipes.
and used in a variety of dishes.
l Ox kidney is dark in colour, strong in flavour, and is
Quality points either braised or used in pies and puddings (mixed with
l Liver should look fresh, moist and smooth, with a beef).
pleasant colour and no unpleasant smell. l Pig’s kidneys are smooth, long and flat, and have a
l Liver should not be dry or contain an excessive number strong flavour.
of tubes.

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Quality points Quality points


l Suet – the saturated fat in which kidneys are encased l Hearts should not be too fatty and should not contain
– should be left on, otherwise the kidneys will dry out. too many tubes.
The suet should be removed when kidneys are being l When cut they should be moist, not sticky, and with no
prepared for cooking. unpleasant smell.
l Both suet and kidneys should be moist and have no
unpleasant smell.
Sweetbreads
Sweetbreads are the pancreas gland (heart bread) and
Preparing kidneys thymus gland (neck bread). The heart bread is round, plump
Skin them and remove the fat and gristle, then cut as
and of better quality than the neck bread, which is long and
required:
uneven in shape. Calf’s heart bread, considered the best,
l For grilling: split the kidney three-quarters of the way
weighs up to 600 g, while lamb’s heart bread weighs up to
through lengthwise. Cut out and discard the gristle.
100 g.
Skewer.
l For sauté: cut slantways. Sweetbreads are an easily digested source of protein, which
l For calves’ or pigs’ kidneys: cut down the middle makes them valuable for use in invalid diets.
lengthwise. Remove the sinew. Cut into thin slices or
neat dice. Quality points
l Heart and neck breads should be fleshy and of a good
size.
l They should be creamy-white in colour and have no
unpleasant smell.

Preparing sweetbreads
l Soak in cold salted water for two to three hours to
remove blood, which would darken the sweetbreads
during cooking. Use several changes of water for calves’
sweetbreads.
l Wash well, blanch, trim and refresh.
l For calves’ sweetbreads, peel off the membrane and
Veal kidneys
connective tissue.
l The sweetbreads can then be pressed between two
Hearts trays with a weight on top, and refrigerated.
Hearts are a good source of protein, which is needed for
growth and repair of the body.
l Lamb’s hearts are small and light; they are normally
served whole.
l Sheep’s hearts are dark and solid; they can be dry and
tough unless cooked carefully.
l Ox or beef hearts are dark coloured and solid, and
tend to be dry and tough.
l Calf’s hearts, coming from a younger animal, are
lighter in colour and more tender.
Before cooking, remove the arterial tubes and excess fat.
Most hearts need slow braising to tenderise them.
Veal sweetbreads

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Tripe Pigs’ trotters


Tripe is the stomach lining or white muscle of the ox, To prepare trotters, boil in water for a few minutes then
consisting of the rumen or paunch and the honeycomb scrape with the back of a knife to remove the hairs. Wash
tripe (considered the best). Sheep tripe, which is darker in off in cold water and split in half.
colour, is obtainable in some areas. Tripe contains protein, is
Table 10.10 Uses of beef offal
low in fat and high in calcium.
Offal Uses
Tripe should be fresh, with no signs of stickiness or
Bones Beef stocks
unpleasant smell. To prepare it, wash it well and soak in cold
Heart Braising
water, then cut into even pieces. Boil or simmer until tender.
Kidney Stewing, soup

Tongues Liver Braising, frying


Suet Suet paste and stuffing, or rendered
Ox, lamb and sheep tongues are those most used in
down for first-class dripping
cooking. Ox tongues are usually salted then soaked before
Sweetbread Braising, frying
being cooked. Lamb tongues are cooked fresh.
Tail Braising, soup
Tongues must be fresh and have no unpleasant smell and
Tongue Pickled in brine, boiling, braising
there should not be an excess of waste at the root end. To
prepare them for cooking remove the bone and gristle Tripe Boiling, braising
from the throat end and soak in cold water for two to four
hours. If salted, soak for three to four hours.
Other meat preparations
Oxtail Forcemeat
Oxtails usually weigh 1.5–2 kg and should be lean with not This is a term given to numerous mixtures of meats (usually
too much fat. There should be no sign of stickiness and veal and pork) and poultry, game, fish, vegetables and
no unpleasant smell. To prepare the tail, cut between the bread. Forcemeats range from a simple sausagemeat
natural joints then trim off excess fat. The large pieces may to the finer mixtures used in the making of hot mousses
be split in two. (ham, chicken, fish) and soufflés. Also included are mixtures
of bread, vegetables and herbs, which are alternatively
Suet referred to as stuffings.

Suet is the fat that surrounds the kidneys. Beef suet should Forcemeats are used for galantines, raised pies, terrines,
be creamy-white, brittle and dry. Other meat fat should be meatballs and a wide variety of other dishes.
fresh, not sticky, and with no unpleasant smell.
Crépinettes
Bone marrow These are small sausages, usually made from a forcemeat
Marrow is obtained from the bones of the leg of beef. It of veal, lamb, pork or chicken, encased either in caul (a thin
should be of good size, firm, creamy-white and odourless. membrane of fat from the intestines) or paper-thin slices
Sliced, poached marrow may be used as a garnish for some of salt pork. Other ingredients are sometimes added (e.g.
meat dishes and savouries. chopped mushrooms or truffles). Crépinettes are usually
covered with melted butter or good quality oil, coated with
fresh white breadcrumbs and grilled, sautéed or cooked in
Bones the oven. Traditionally they are served with potato purée
Bones must be fresh, not sticky, with no unpleasant smell, and a well-flavoured demi-glace sauce.
and preferably meaty (as they are used for stock, the
foundation for so many preparations).

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Test yourself
1 List two quality points to look for when buying beef.
2 Describe how to store uncooked meat in a refrigerator.
3 Describe the stages in the preparation of a best end of lamb.
4 What are the benefits of sealing meat before cooking?
5 Give two reasons why braising is a suitable cooking method for neck of veal.
6 Describe the stages in the preparation and cooking of a leg of pork.
7 List four quality points to look for when buying pork.
8 List two quality points to look for when buying calves’ liver.
9 Why is braising the most appropriate cooking method for hearts?
10 Describe how to prepare sweetbreads for cooking.

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Lamb dishes

1 Grilled lamb cutlets (côtelettes d’agneau grillées)

1 Season the cutlets lightly with salt and mill


pepper.
2 Brush with oil or fat.
3 If the grill is heated from below, place the
prepared cutlet on the greased, preheated bars.
Cook for approximately 5 minutes, turn and
complete the cooking.
4 If using a salamander, place the cutlets on a
greased tray, cook for approximately 5 minutes,
turn and complete the cooking.
5 Serve dressed, garnished with a deep-fried
potato and watercress. A compound butter (e.g.
parsley, herb or garlic) may also be served.
6 Each cutlet bone may be capped with a cutlet frill.

Healthy eating tips


When served with boiled new potatoes and boiled or
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium steamed vegetables, the dish becomes more ‘balanced’.
1,493 kJ 357 kcal 20.7 g 9.8 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 42.8 g 0.0 g 0.1 g

2 Mixed grill 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Sausages 4 10
Cutlets 4 10
Kidneys 4 10
Tomatoes 4 10
Mushrooms 4 10
Streaky bacon, rashers 4 10
Deep-fried potato, to serve
Watercress, to serve
Parsley butter, to serve

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


2,050 kJ 488 kcal 40.8 g 19.3 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 30.4 g 0.0 g

1 portion (2 cutlets). With deep-fried potatoes, parsley and


watercress, 1 portion provides: 3,050 kJ/726 kcal energy, 59.2 g
fat, 26.6 g saturated fat, 20.2 g carbohydrates, 2.5 g sugar, 29.5 g
protein and 4.9 g fibre.

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These are the usually accepted items for a mixed grill,


Professional tip
but it will be found that there are many variations to this
The items must be cooked in the order listed above, so
list (e.g. steaks, liver, a Welsh rarebit and fried egg).
that they are all fully and evenly cooked at the end.
1 Grill in the order listed above.
2 Dress neatly on an oval flat dish or plates.
Garnish with deep-fried potato, watercress and a Healthy eating tips
slice of compound butter on each kidney or offered Add only a small amount of compound butter and serve
with plenty of potatoes and vegetables.
separately.

3 Lamb kebabs (shish kebab) 

Note
Kebabs, a dish of Turkish origin, are pieces of food
impaled and cooked on skewers over a grill or barbecue.
There are many variations and different flavours can be
added by marinating the kebabs in oil, wine, vinegar or
lemon juice with spices and herbs for 1–2 hours before
cooking.
Kebabs can be made using tender cuts, or mince of
lamb and beef, pork, liver, kidney, bacon, ham, sausage
and chicken, using either the meats individually or
combining two or three. Vegetables and fruit can also
be added (e.g. onion, apple, pineapple, peppers,
tomatoes, aubergine). Kebabs can be made using
vegetables exclusively (e.g. peppers, onion, aubergine,
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium tomatoes). Kebabs are usually served with a pilaff rice
1,544 kJ 372 kcal 25.1 g 9.9 g 7.2 g 5.9 g 29.6 g 2.0 g 0.1 g (see page 125).
The ideal cuts of lamb are the nut of the lean meat of the
1 Cut the meat into cubes and place on skewers
loin, best end or boned-out meat from a young shoulder
with squares of green pepper, tomato, onion and of lamb.
bay leaves in between. The pieces of lamb and
vegetables must be cut evenly so that they will
cook evenly Variation
2 Sprinkle with chopped thyme and cook over a hot Miniature kebabs (one mouthful) can be made, impaled
grill. on cocktail sticks, grilled and served as an amuse-
bouche, or as a hot snack at receptions.
Serve with pilaff rice, or with chickpeas and finely
sliced raw onion. Fish kebabs can be made using a firm fish, such as
monkfish or tuna, and marinating in olive oil, lemon or
lime juice, chopped fennel or dill, garlic and a dash of
Tabasco or Worcester sauce.

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4 Lamb satay

Ingredient To make 10 To make 20


Lamb fillets or loin of lamb 250 g 500 g
Clove of garlic, crushed and chopped 1 2
Thai fish sauce 1 tsp 2 tsp
Sweet chilli sauce 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
Fresh ginger, grated 1 tsp 2 tsp
Lime juice 30 ml 60 ml
Peanut butter (coarse) 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
Ground cumin ½ tsp 1 tsp
Ground turmeric ½ tsp 1 tsp
Sauce
White vinegar 30 ml 60 ml
Caster sugar 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
Sweet chilli sauce 3 tsp 1 tbsp
Unsalted, roasted peanuts 3 tsp 1 tbsp

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Fresh coriander leaves, finely 3 tsp 1 tbsp
1,624 kJ 391 kcal 29.3 g 10.2 g 13.3 g 11.7 g 19.6 g 2.4 g 0.7 g chopped

1 Prepare the lamb, cutting it into thin strips. 6 Prepare the sauce by placing the vinegar and
2 In a bowl place the garlic, sauces, ginger, lime sugar in a small pan, stirring until the sugar
juice, peanut butter and spices. Mix well. has dissolved. Bring to the boil and simmer for
2 minutes. Stir in the remaining ingredients.
3 Put the lamb into the marinade, stir and put in
refrigerator for 3 hours or overnight. 7 Serve the lamb on a suitable platter on banana
leaves (optional) with the dipping sauce in a bowl
4 Meanwhile, soak some bamboo skewers in water
in the centre.
for about an hour to prevent scorching.
5 Thread the lamb on to the skewers. Grill the lamb
skewers, turning once until cooked and nicely
coloured.

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5 Grilled loin or chump chops, or noisettes of lamb

1 Season the chops or noisettes lightly with salt and


mill pepper.
2 Brush with oil and place on hot greased grill bars
or place on a greased baking tray.
3 Cook quickly for the first 2–3 minutes on each
side, in order to seal the pores of the meat.
4 Continue cooking steadily, allowing approximately
12–15 minutes in all.
A compound butter may also be served, together with
deep-fried potatoes.

Variation
Sprigs of rosemary or other herbs may be laid on the
chops during the last few minutes of grilling to impart
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium flavour.
1,338 kJ 320 kcal 16.1 g 7.4 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 43.8 g 0.0 g 0.1 g

6 Lamb rosettes with thyme and blueberries

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Lamb rosettes 8 20
Olive oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Red wine 250 ml 625 ml
Fresh thyme 4 sprigs 10 sprigs
Lamb stock 250 ml 625 ml
Blueberries 200 g 500 g
Salt and pepper

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3197 kJ 771 kcal 63.0 g 28.0 g 6.1 g 4.6 g 35.0 g 1.3 g 0.4 g

Using lamb cutlets and beef stock.

1 Shallow-fry the rosettes in the olive oil. 4 Add the blueberries, then season.
2 Deglaze the pan with the wine, then add the 5 Serve the lamb with the blueberries and the
thyme. sauce.
3 Add the lamb stock and reduce to a sauce
consistency. Note
Risotto makes a suitable accompaniment.

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7 Noisettes of lamb with baby ratatouille

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Noisettes of lamb 8 20
Vegetable oil for frying
Baby ratatouille (see recipe on page 400 g 1 kg
406, but cut the vegetables into
0.75 cm dice)

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,666 kJ 400 kcal 29.3 g 9.3 g 3.8 g 3.2 g 30.7 g 2.4 g

1 Prepare the noisettes of lamb.


2 Shallow-fry the seasoned noisettes in vegetable
oil on both sides until just pink.
3 Drain on kitchen paper. Serve on a bed of baby
ratatouille.
4 Garnish with fresh basil or some fresh chopped
mixed herbs (parsley, chervil, tarragon, etc).

8 Lamb valentine steaks with fresh pea hummus

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Lamb steaks 8 20
Olive oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
For the hummus
Peas 600 g 1.5 kg
Cloves of garlic, crushed and chopped 4 10
Ground cumin 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Lemon juice ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
Mint leaves, chopped 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Extra virgin olive oil 10 tbsp 25 tbsp
Tahini paste 2 tbsp 5 tbsp

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
4152 kJ 1002 kcal 86.0 g 26.0 g 15.4 g 4.2 g 43.0 g 1.0 g 0.3 g

Using 90 g lamb loin chops.

1 Prepare the valentine steaks. 3 Lightly season the valentines. Shallow-fry in olive
2 To make the hummus, cook the peas in boiling oil until golden brown and slightly pink.
salted water and drain well. Purée in a food 4 Serve on individual plates on a bed of pea
processor with the garlic, cumin, lemon juice, hummus, garnished with fresh mint. Alternatively,
mint, olive oil and tahini paste. serve the steaks on plates with the pea hummus
piped as a rosette, and a circle of lamb jus around.

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Meat and offal 10

9 Samosas

4 Stir in the fennel, cumin and turmeric; add the


potatoes, peas, salt and water.
5 Reduce to a low heat, cover the pan and cook for
5 minutes.
6 Stir in the coriander; cook for a further 5 minutes.
7 Remove from the heat, stir in the garam masala
and the cayenne seasoning.
8 Remove from the pan, place into a suitable bowl
to cool before using.

Filling 2: lamb
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,740 kJ 682 kcal 43.9 g 15.2 g 49.5 g 2.0 g 25.5 g 3.0 g 0.5 g Saffron ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
Using short paste and lamb filling. Boiling water 2½ tsp 6¼ tsp
Vegetable oil 3 tsp 7½ tsp
Filling 1: potato Fresh ginger, finely chopped 12 g 30 g
Cloves of garlic, crushed and 2 5
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions chopped
Potatoes, peeled 200 g 500 g Onions, finely chopped 50 g 125 g
Vegetable oil 1½ tsp 3¾ tsp Salt, to taste
Black mustard seeds ½ tsp 1¼ tsp Lean lamb, minced 400 g 1 kg
Onions, finely chopped 50 g 125 g Pinch of cayenne pepper
Fresh ginger, finely chopped 12 g 30 g Garam masala 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Fennel seeds 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Cumin seeds ¼ tsp 1 tsp 1 Infuse the saffron in the boiling water; allow to
stand for 10 minutes.
Turmeric ¼ tsp 1 tsp
2 Heat the vegetable oil in a suitable pan. Add
Frozen peas 75 g 187 g
the ginger, garlic, onions and salt, stirring
Salt, to taste
continuously. Fry for 7–8 minutes, until the onions
Water 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp are soft and golden brown.
Fresh coriander, finely chopped 1 tsp 2½ tsp 3 Stir in the lamb, add the saffron with the water.
Garam masala ½ tsp 2½ tsp Cook, stirring the lamb until it is cooked.
Pinch of cayenne pepper 4 Add the cayenne and garam masala, reduce
the heat and allow to cook gently for a further
1 Cut the potatoes into 0.5 cm dice; cook in water 10 minutes.
until only just cooked.
5 The mixture should be fairly tight with very little
2 Heat the oil in a suitable pan, add the mustard moisture.
seeds and cook until they pop.
6 Transfer to a bowl and allow to cool before using.
3 Add the onions and ginger. Fry for 7–8 minutes,
stirring continuously until golden brown.

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To make the samosas Note

Ingredient 16–20 pasties 40–50 pasties Allow 4 or 5 samosas for a portion. They can also be
served individually as finger food.
Short pastry made from ghee fat 400 g 1 kg
and fairly strong flour (the dough The samosas may be made in advance, covered with
must be fairly elastic) cling film or plastic, and refrigerated before being
Or filo or spring roll pastry deep-fried.
Samosas can be garnished with coriander leaves and
served with chutney.
Healthy eating tips
l Use the minimum of salt in the potato filling.
No added salt is necessary with the lamb.
l Use a small amount of unsaturated oil to fry the
mustard seeds, onions and lamb.
l Drain off the excess fat before adding the water.

1 Cut the paste into strips approx. 2 Eggwash the upper side of the 3 Flip over the pocket, ease it open
18 × 7 cm. Fold over the end of the pastry, then fold over the top part and fill it.
pastry. to form a pocket.

4 Once completely full, eggwash the 5 Fold over the pastry and wrap it
top edge and the flap of pastry. round the seal the samosa.
6 Deep-fry until golden brown and
crisp.

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10 Braised lamb chump chops 


(chop d’agneau braisées)

1 Fry the seasoned chops in a sauté pan quickly on


both sides in hot fat.
2 When turning the chops, add the mirepoix (onion
and carrot).
3 Draw aside and drain off the surplus fat.
4 Add the flour and mix in, singe in the oven or on
top of the stove. (Alternatively, use flour that has
been browned in the oven.)
5 Add the tomato purée and the hot stock, and stir
with a kitchen spoon until thoroughly mixed.
6 Add the bouquet garni and garlic, if using.
Season, skim and allow to simmer; cover with a
lid.
7 Cook (preferably in the oven), skimming off all oil
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
and scum.
Lamb chops 4 10
8 When cooked, transfer the chops to a clean pan.
Salt and pepper
9 Correct the seasoning and consistency of the
Sunflower or olive oil
sauce.
Onion, diced 100 g 250 g
10 Skim off any oil and pass the sauce through a fine
Carrot, diced 100 g 250 g strainer over the chops.
Flour (white or wholemeal) 25 g 60 g
11 Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.
Tomato purée 1 level tsp 2½ level tsp
Brown stock 500 ml 1.25 litre Healthy eating tips
l Trim fat from the chops before frying.
Bouquet garni 1 2
l Use the minimum amount of salt.
Clove of garlic, optional 1 2½ l Lightly oil the pan with an unsaturated oil to fry the
Parsley, chopped chops. Drain off any excess fat after the frying is
complete.
l Serve with a large portion of vegetables.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,452 kJ 349 kcal 23.4 g 10.8 g 9.4 g 3.8 g 25.8 g 1.2 g

Variation
Lamb steaks cut from the chump end of the leg can also
be cooked in this way. Variations include the following
additions after the sauce has been strained:
l cooked pulses (e.g. haricot, butter or flageolet beans)
l neatly cut cooked vegetables (e.g. carrots, turnips,
swede, green beans or peas).

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11 Braised lamb shanks

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Lamb shanks 4 10
Olive oil for braising (to fill casserole
about 1 cm deep)
Leeks, roughly chopped 1 2½
Celery sticks, roughly chopped 2 5
Carrots, roughly chopped 2 5
Onions, roughly chopped 2 5
Garlic head, broken into cloves 1 2½
(unpeeled)
Bay leaf 1 2½
Thyme sprig 1 2½
Rosemary sprig 1 2½
Red wine 375 ml 1 litre
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3098 kJ 742 kcal 24.2 g 7.4 g 10.5 g 8.1 g 98.3 g 4.0 g 0.3 g Chicken stock 600 ml 1.5 litres

1 Take a casserole (or oven-proof dish) and place 5 Cover the pot with a lid or kitchen foil and place in
on the hob over a high heat. Pour in the olive oil the oven at 150 °C to braise for 2 hours 30 minutes,
and, when hot, add the lamb shanks, turning or up to 5 hours depending on the amount of lamb
occasionally until brown. being used. When the meat is cooked, the bone
2 Once browned, remove the lamb from the pot can easily be turned out of the meat (if you would
and tip in the leek, celery, carrot, onion and garlic like to present the bone, only give it a small turn to
cloves. Stir them all together and add the bay leaf, check if the lamb is ready, as it will be difficult to
thyme and rosemary. These ingredients will all add re-insert the bone once removed).
flavour to the dish but won’t be served at the end. 6 Pass the cooking stock through a fine sieve and
3 Once the vegetables are lightly browned, place reduce to the correct consistency (coats the back
the lamb back into the pot, allowing it to rest on of a spoon).
top of the vegetables. 7 Serve the lamb shanks with the cooking juices
4 Pour in the red wine and chicken stock and bring poured over the top.
to the boil. The lamb can be served with mashed potato and roast
vegetables.

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12 Hot pot of lamb or mutton

4 Season and place on top of the meat; cover three


parts with stock.
5 Neatly arrange an overlapping layer of the remaining
potatoes on top, sliced about 2 mm thick.
6 Thoroughly clean the edges of the dish and place
to cook in a hot oven at 230–250 °C until lightly
coloured.
7 Reduce the heat and continue cooking for
approximately 1½–2 hours.
8 Press the potatoes down occasionally during
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions cooking.
Stewing lamb 500 g 1.25 kg 9 Serve with the potatoes brushed with butter or
margarine and sprinkle with the chopped parsley.
Salt, pepper
Onions, thinly sliced 100 g 250 g Note
Potatoes, thinly sliced 400 g 1 kg
Neck chops or neck fillet make a succulent dish.
Brown stock 1 litre 2.5 litres
When the dish is ready, the top layer of potatoes should
Oil (optional) 25 g 60 g
be golden brown.
Parsley, chopped

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Variation
1,505 kJ 360 kcal 17.0 g 6.4 g 22.0 g 1.8 g 29.0 g 2.5 g
Try:
Using sunflower oil. l using leek in place of onion
l adding 200 g lambs’ kidneys
1 Trim the meat and cut into even pieces.
l quickly frying off the meat and sweating the onions
2 Place in a deep earthenware dish. Season with before putting in the pot
salt and pepper. l adding 100–200 g sliced mushrooms
l adding a small tin of baked beans or a layer of thickly
3 Lightly sauté the onions in the oil, if desired. Mix
sliced tomatoes before adding the potatoes
the onion and approximately three-quarters of the l using sausages in place of lamb.
potatoes together.

Chop the lamb into even-sized pieces Layer the potatoes over the lamb Pour over the stock

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13 Brown lamb or mutton stew 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Stewing lamb or mutton 500 g 1.25 kg
Oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Salt, pepper
Carrot, chopped 100 g 250 g
Onion, chopped 100 g 250 g
Clove of garlic (if desired) 1 2½
Flour (white or wholemeal) 25 g 60 g
Tomato purée 1 level tbsp 2½ level tbsp
Brown stock (mutton stock or 500 g 1.25 litre
water)
Bouquet garni
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,320 kJ 314 kcal 18.7 g 6.2 g 9.4 g 3.2 g 27.9 g 1.3 g Parsley, chopped, to serve
Using sunflower oil.

1 Trim the meat and cut into even pieces. 6 Add the stock and season.
2 Partly fry off the seasoned meat in the oil, then 7 Add the bouquet garni, bring to the boil, skim and
add the carrot, onion and garlic, and continue cover with a lid.
frying. 8 Simmer gently until cooked (preferably in the
3 Drain off the surplus fat, add the flour and mix. oven) for approximately 1–2 hours, until the lamb
4 Singe in the oven or brown on top of the stove for is tender.
a few minutes, or add previously browned flour. 9 When cooked, place the meat in a clean pan.
5 Add the tomato purée and stir with a wooden 10 Correct the sauce and pass it on to the meat.
spoon. 11 Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

Fry the lamb, onions and carrots Mix in the flour Add the stock and bring to the boil

Healthy eating tips Professional tip


l Trim off as much fat as possible before frying. l Make sure the oil is hot before placing the meat in the
l Use the minimum amount of salt to season the meat. pan to brown quickly all over.
l Serve with plenty of potatoes and vegetables. l Do not allow the meat to boil in the oil, because this
will spoil the flavour and texture.

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14 Irish stew

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Stewing lamb (scrag, middle neck 500 g 1.25 kg
or shoulder)
Salt, pepper
Bouquet garni
Potatoes 400 g 1 kg
Onions 100 g 250 g
Celery 100 g 250 g
Savoy cabbage 100 g 250 g
Leeks 100 g 250 g
Button onions 100 g 250 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,339 kJ 319 kcal 11.2 g 5.2 g 26.1 g 5.7 g 30.2 g 5.0 g Parsley, chopped

1 Trim the meat and cut into even pieces. Blanch


Professional tip
and refresh.
Keep the meat and vegetables covered with liquid
2 Place in a shallow saucepan, cover with water, during cooking, to keep the dish consistent and tasty.
bring to the boil, season with salt and skim. If
tough meat is being used, allow ½–1 hour stewing
time before adding any vegetables. Variation
3 Add the bouquet garni. Turn the potatoes into Alternatively, a more modern approach is to cook the
barrel shapes. meat for 1½–2 hours until almost tender, then add
the vegetables and cook until all are tender. Optional
4 Cut the potato trimmings, onions, celery, cabbage
accompaniments include Worcester sauce and/or
and leeks into small neat pieces and add to the pickled red cabbage (see page 587).
meat; simmer for 30 minutes.
5 Add the button onions and simmer for a further
30 minutes. Healthy eating tips
l Trim as much fat as possible from the stewing lamb.
6 Add the potatoes and simmer gently with a lid on l Use the minimum amount of salt.
the pan until cooked. l Serve with colourful seasonal vegetables to create a
‘healthy’ dish.
7 Correct the seasoning and skim off all fat.
8 Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

Ingredients for Irish stew Boil the meat Add the vegetables

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15 Roast leg of lamb with mint, lemon and cumin

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Place the mint, lemon juice, cumin and olive oil in
a food processor. Carefully blend the mint, lemon
Mint 25 g 62.5 g
juice, cumin and olive oil to give maximum flavour.
Lemons, juice of 2 5
2 Rub the mixture into the lamb and place in a
Cumin 2 tsp 5 tsp suitable roasting tray.
Olive oil 4 tbsp 10 tbsp 3 Roast the lamb in the normal way at 200 °C.
Leg of lamb 3.5 kg 2 × 3.5 kg Serve on a bed of boulangère potatoes or dauphinoise
potatoes and a suitable green vegetable, e.g. leaf
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
spinach with toasted pine nuts, or with a couscous
2,192 kJ 524 kcal 39.1 g 13.7 g 0.3 g 0.3 g 29.7 g 0.0 g salad.
Using a 225 g portion of lamb.

Ingredients for roast leg of lamb with mint, Place the leg of lamb in a roasting tray and Carving a leg of lamb
lemon and cumin rub with the mint and lemon mixture

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16 Roast saddle of lamb with rosemary mash

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Bone the saddle of lamb and roast in the normal
way.
Saddle of lamb, boned
2 Bring the milk to the boil with the rosemary.
Milk 250 ml 625 ml
Remove from the heat, cover and leave to infuse
Rosemary 2 sprigs 5 sprigs for 10–15 minutes.
Potatoes, mashed 1.3 kg 3.25 kg 3 To make the rosemary mash, prepare a potato
purée using the milk infused with rosemary.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3,215 kJ 770 kcal 45.7 g 22.1 g 58.9 g 4.7 g 34.4 g 5.6 g 0.2 g

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17 Best end of lamb with breadcrumbs and parsley 

6 portions 1 Lightly brush the joint with oil and season it.
Best end of lamb, French trimmed 2 2 Roast the best end at 220 °C for 15–20 minutes.
Oil 3 Cover the fat surface of the meat with a mixture of
Seasoning
the fresh white breadcrumbs mixed with plenty of
chopped parsley, an egg and the melted butter or
Fresh white breadcrumbs 50 g
margarine.
Parsley, chopped 2 tbsp
4 Return to the oven for approximately 10 minutes
Egg 1 to complete the cooking, browning carefully.
Butter or margarine, melted 50 g
Professional tip
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Cook the lamb until it is pink. Carefully bind the
2530 kJ 612 kcal 51.3 g 24.2 g 6.6 g 0.5 g 31.2 g 0.2 g 0.2 g
breadcrumbs with herbs and beaten egg, so that they
Using butter. will hold together during cooking.

Variation
Try:
l mixed fresh herbs used in addition to parsley
l adding finely chopped garlic
l chopped fresh herbs, shallots and mustard.

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18 Slow-cooked shoulder of lamb with 


potatoes boulangère

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 For instructions on how to prepare potatoes


boulangère for baking, see page 379.
Boned shoulder of lamb, rolled 1 3
and tied 2 Rub the lamb with oil, and season with salt and
Olive oil 1 tbsp 3 tbsp pepper. Place in a suitable roasting tray and cook
Salt, pepper in an oven at 200 °C for 15 minutes.
Rosemary, sprigs 6 18 3 Remove from the oven and reduce the
temperature to 140 °C.
Thyme, sprigs 6 18
Cloves of garlic 4 10
4 Add the remaining ingredients to the roasting tray.

Mirepoix 400 g 1 kg
5 Cook for 2 hours, basting every 20 minutes.
Bay leaves 1 3 6 Remove the lamb from the roasting tray and
return it to the oven on a rack. Place the potatoes
Red wine or dry cider 250 ml 625 ml
boulangère directly below the lamb. Cook for
Brown stock 300 ml 750 ml
½–1 hour, until the lamb is tender and sticky.
Redcurrant jelly 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
7 To finish the sauce, once the lamb is removed
from the roasting tray, reduce the cooking liquor
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,815 kJ 437 kcal 30.8 g 14.5 g 2.2 g 0.3 g 27.6 g 0.4 g 0.6 g
to the required consistency. Add the strained
redcurrant jelly, mix well, correct seasoning, then
strain.

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19 Pot-roast shoulder of lamb with gratin forcemeat 

8 During the last 45 minutes, add the vegetables


to the pot. Cover and continue to cook until meat
and vegetables are tender.
9 Remove the cooked lamb and vegetables from
the pot to a serving platter.
10 Strain the cooking liquor and adjust the
consistency; this can be thickened if desired.
11 Finish with Worcestershire sauce and season to
taste.

Sautéed forcemeat (gratin


Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
forcemeat)
3537 kJ 850 kcal 54.0 g 24.0 g 42.0 g 12.5 g 51.0 g 6.2 g 0.6 g

Using beef stock and chicken liver. Ingredient Makes 300 g


Chicken liver or calves’ liver (free from skin and sinews) 150 g
Ingredient 10 portions Pork fat, diced 5g
Lamb shoulder, boned 3 kg Mushroom trimmings 50 g
Gratin forcemeat (see below) 300 g Sautéed shallots 25 g
Salt 1 tsp Butter 50 g
Pepper ½ tsp Spice salt 5g
Wholewheat flour 3 tbsp Pinch thyme and marjoram
Oil 3 tbsp
Brandy 10 mls
Brown stock 500 mls
Potatoes, turned 10 1 Brown the pork fat in the butter, to set firm.
Carrots, turned 10 Remove from pan and set to one side.
Button onions 10 2 Sauté the liver in the same pan to set.
Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp 3 Return pork back to the pan.
4 Add mushrooms, sautéed shallots and
1 Preheat the oven to 160 °C. seasonings.
2 Stuff shoulder with forcemeat and tie. 5 Sauté all together, then flame with brandy.
3 Dredge the lamb with seasoned flour. 6 Remove from heat and allow to cool.
4 Heat oil in a large roast pot over medium high 7 Place all ingredients in food processor and blend.
heat. The forcemeat is then ready to use.
5 Add the floured lamb to hot pan and brown evenly
on all sides. Professional tip
6 Pour stock to cover lamb. This forcemeat could also be used to stuff a loin of lamb
or skirt of beef rolled and then pot roasted, or served on
7 Cover the pot and place in the preheated oven. croutons to accompany poultry or game dishes.
Slow cook the lamb for 2½ to 3 hours.

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20 Shepherd’s pie

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Note


Onions, chopped 100 g 250 g
This dish prepared with cooked beef is known as
Oil 35 ml 100 ml cottage pie.
Lamb or mutton (minced), cooked 400 g 1 kg Pipe the potato carefully so that the meat is completely
Salt, pepper covered.
Worcester sauce 2–3 drops 5 drops When using reheated meats, care must be taken to heat
Potatoes, cooked 400 g 1 kg thoroughly and quickly.

Butter or margarine 25 g 60 g
Milk or egg wash Healthy eating tips
l Use an oil rich in unsaturates (olive or sunflower) to
Jus-lié or demi-glace 125–250 ml 300–600 ml
lightly oil the pan.
l Drain off any excess fat after the lamb has been fried.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l Try replacing some of the meat with baked beans or
1,744 kJ 415 kcal 25.3 g 9.1 g 22.1 g 2.5 g 26.3 g 1.6 g
lentils, and add tomatoes and/or mushrooms to the
Using sunflower oil, with hard margarine in topping. dish.
l When served with a large portion of green
1 Cook the onion in the oil without colouring.
vegetables, a healthy balance is created.
2 Add the cooked meat from which all fat and
gristle has been removed.
Variation
3 Season and add Worcester sauce (sufficient to
bind). Try:
l adding 100–200 g sliced mushrooms
4 Bring to the boil; simmer for 10–15 minutes. l adding a layer of thickly sliced tomatoes, then
5 Place in an earthenware or pie dish. sprinkling with rosemary
l mixing a tin of baked beans in with the meat
6 Prepare the potatoes – mix with the butter or
l sprinkling with grated cheese and browning under a
margarine, then mash and pipe, or arrange neatly salamander
on top. l varying the flavour of the mince by adding herbs or
7 Brush with the milk or egg wash. spices
l varying the potato topping by mixing in grated
8 Colour lightly under a salamander or in a hot cheese, chopped spring onions or herbs, or by using
oven. duchess potato mixture
9 Serve accompanied with a sauceboat of jus-lié. l serving lightly sprinkled with garam masala and with
grilled pitta bread.

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Beef dishes

21 Grilled beef

The following cuts may be cooked in this way:


l rump steak
l point steak
l double fillet steak (chateaubriand)
l fillet steak
l tournedos
l porterhouse or T-bone steak
l sirloin steak (entrecôte)
l double sirloin steak
l minute steak
l rib eye steak.
Allow approximately 100–150 g per portion, although in
many establishments these weights will be exceeded.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre 3 Turn halfway through the cooking and brush
706 kJ 168 kcal 6.0 g 2.7 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 28.6 g 0.0 g
occasionally with oil. Cook to the degree ordered
by the customer (see page 225).
1 Lightly season the steaks with salt and pepper,
and brush on both sides with oil. 4 Serve garnished with watercress and deep-fried
potatoes, and offer a suitable sauce such as
2 Place on hot, preheated and greased grill bars.
compound butter or sauce béarnaise.

22 Hamburger, American style 


Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,868 kJ 450 kcal 32.4 g 13.9 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 39.4 g 0.0 g 0.2 g

Hamburgers – now more commonly known as burgers


– were originally made using 200 g of minced beef per
portion.
The meat used should be pure beef with 20–25 per cent
beef fat by weight. Less fat than this will result in a tough,
dry hamburger. If more fat is used the hamburgers will
be unpalatable, nutritionally undesirable and will shrink
considerably during cooking.

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1 Pass the meat through a mincer twice. This


Variation
makes a more tender product.
Variations in seasonings and ingredients can be added
2 Lightly mix the mince with any desired seasoning
to the minced beef, but traditionally the sauces and
or ingredients (over-mixing will make the garnishes offered are sufficient. These can include:
hamburger tough). ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise, chilli sauce, horseradish,
3 Mould the mixture into patties. Mark the top with cheese, raw onion rings, lettuce, avocado slices, bacon,
and various pickles and relishes. Freshly fried chips
crossed lines using a knife.
and/or cut pieces of raw vegetables (e.g. carrot, celery,
4 Grill until cooked thoroughly to the centre, spring onions) can be added.
reaching 75 °C. Do not prick the hamburgers The bun may be plain or seeded (sesame seeds).
while cooking, as the juices will seep out leaving a
Alternative fillings can include:
dry product.
l cheese – either on its own or added to the beef
l egg – a freshly fried egg, or added to the beef
Note l chicken – a freshly grilled portion of chicken, either
minced or in the piece
Mini burgers (one mouthful) can be served as hot
l fish – a freshly grilled portion of a whole fish (cod or
canapés at receptions.
haddock)
l vegetables – a selection of freshly grilled or fried
vegetables (e.g. onions, peppers, aubergines,
mushrooms).

Mould the mixture into shape Mark the top of each burger before grilling it

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23 Tournedos

Note
Traditionally, tournedos are cooked underdone and
served on a round croûte of bread fried in butter.

Healthy eating tips


l Use little or no salt to season the steaks.
l Fry in a small amount of an unsaturated oil and drain
off all excess fat after frying.
l Serve with plenty of boiled new potatoes or a jacket
potato and a selection of vegetables.

Variation
Tournedos can be served with a variety of sauces, such
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium as chasseur, red wine or mushroom, and numerous
1,540 kJ 366 kcal 13.2 g 4.8 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 61.8 g 0.0 g 0.2 g garnishes (e.g. diced cubed potatoes, wild or cultivated
mushrooms). The photo shows tournedos Rossini –
Tournedos are cut from the middle of a fillet of beef and the tournedos are served with foie gras, Parma ham,
are usually 100–150g in weight. girolles, truffle and a Madeira jelly.
1 Lightly season and shallow-fry on both sides in a
sauté pan.
2 Serve with an appropriate garnish or sauce (see
Variation).

24 Sirloin steak with red wine (entrecôte bordelaise)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Butter or oil 50 g 125 g
Sirloin steaks (approximately 4 10
150–200 g each)
Red wine 60 ml 150 ml
Red wine sauce (see page 96) 250 ml 625 ml
Parsley, chopped

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


3,013 kJ 717 kcal 62.2 g 21.6 g 6.0 g 3.0 g 26.1 g 1.4 g

Using sunflower oil and 150 g raw steak per portion. Using
sunflower oil and 200 g raw steak per portion provides:
3584 kJ/853 kcal energy, 73.6 g fat, 26.2 g saturated fat, 6.0 g
carbohydrates, 3.0 g sugar, 34.4 g protein and 1.4 g fibre.

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1 Heat the butter or oil in a sauté pan. Traditionally, two slices of beef bone marrow, poached
2 Lightly season the steaks on both sides with salt in stock for 2–3 minutes, would be placed on each
and pepper. steak.
3 Fry the steaks quickly on both sides, keeping
Professional tip
them underdone.
Cook the steaks to order (and make the sauce by
4 Dress the steaks on a serving dish. deglazing the pan and reducing), not in advance.
5 Pour off the fat from the pan.
6 Deglaze with the red wine. Reduce by half and
strain. Healthy eating tips
l Use little or no salt to season the steaks.
7 Add the red wine sauce, reboil and correct the l Fry in a small amount of an unsaturated oil and drain
seasoning. off all excess fat after frying.
l Serve with plenty of boiled new potatoes or a jacket
8 Coat the steaks with the sauce.
potato and a selection of vegetables.
9 Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.

25 Beef stroganoff

1 Cut the meat into strips approximately 1 × 5 cm.


2 Place the butter or oil in a sauteuse over a fierce
heat.
3 Add the beef strips, lightly season with salt
and pepper, and allow to cook rapidly for a
few seconds. The beef should be brown but
underdone.
4 Drain the beef into a colander. Pour the butter
back into the pan.
5 Add the shallots, cover with a lid and allow to
cook gently until tender.
6 Drain off the fat, add the wine and reduce to one-
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions third.
Fillet of beef (tail end) 400 g 1 kg 7 Add the cream and reduce by a quarter.
Butter or oil 50 g 125 g 8 Add the lemon juice and the beef strips; do not
Salt, pepper reboil. Correct the seasoning.
Shallots, finely chopped 25 g 60 g 9 Serve lightly sprinkled with chopped parsley.
Accompany with rice pilaff (see page 125).
Dry white wine 125 ml 300 ml
Cream 125 ml 300 ml Healthy eating tips
Lemon, juice of ¼ ½ l Use little or no salt to season the meat.
l Fry in a small amount of an unsaturated oil.
Parsley, chopped
l Serve with a large portion of rice and a salad.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,364 kJ 325 kcal 23.7 g 7.9 g 1.7 g 1.7 g 21.2 g 0.3 g

Using sunflower oil.

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26 Hamburg or Vienna steak

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Cook the onion in the fat without colour, then
allow to cool.
Onion, finely chopped 25 g 60 g
2 Add to the rest of the ingredients and mix in well.
Butter or oil 10 g 25 g
3 Divide into even pieces and, using a little flour,
Lean minced beef 200 g 500 g
make into balls, flatten and shape round.
Small egg 1 2–3
4 Shallow-fry in hot fat on both sides, reducing the
Breadcrumbs 100 g 250 g heat after the first few minutes, making certain
Cold water or milk 2 tbsp 60 ml they are cooked right through.
(approximately) (approximately)
5 Serve with a light sauce, such as piquant sauce
(see page 91).
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
681 kJ 162 kcal 6.7 g 1.9 g 12.7 g 1.0 g 13.8 g 1.0 g The ‘steaks’ may be garnished with French-fried onions
and sometimes with a fried egg.

Healthy eating tips


l Use a small amount of an unsaturated oil to cook the
onion and to shallow-fry the meat.
l The minced beef will produce more fat, which should
be drained off.
l Serve with plenty of starchy carbohydrate and
vegetables.

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27 Carbonnade of beef

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Lean beef (topside) 400 g 1 kg
Salt, pepper
Flour (white or wholemeal) 25 g 60 g
Dripping or oil 25 g 60 g
Onions, sliced 200 g 500 g
Beer 250 ml 625 ml
Caster sugar 10 g 25 g
Tomato purée 25 g 60 g
Brown stock

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,037 kJ 247 kcal 9.1 g 1.8 g 14.0 g 8.1 g 24.7 g 1.1 g

1 Cut the meat into thin slices. 5 Add the beer, sugar and tomato purée and
2 Season with salt and pepper and pass through sufficient brown stock to cover the meat.
the flour. 6 Cover with a tight-fitting lid and simmer gently in
3 Quickly colour on both sides in hot fat and place a moderate oven at 150–200 °C until the meat is
in a casserole. tender (approximately 2 hours).
4 Fry the onions to a light brown colour. Add to the 7 Skim, correct the seasoning and serve.
meat.

Slice the meat thinly Pass each slice through the flour Pour the liquid over the browned meat and
onions

Healthy eating tips Note


l Trim off as much fat as possible before frying and
drain off all surplus fat after frying. Carbonnade of beef is usually served with braised red
l Use the minimum amount of salt to season the meat. cabbage. Serve separately.
l Skim all fat from the finished sauce.
l Serve with plenty of potatoes and vegetables.

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28 Beef bourguignon

1 Preheat the oven to 180 °C.


2 Remove the meat from the wine. Trim the beef
shin of all fat and sinew, and cut into 2.5 cm-thick
rondelles.
3 Heat a little oil in a thick-bottomed pan and seal/
brown the skin. Place in a large ovenproof dish.
4 Meanwhile, reduce the red wine by half.
5 Peel and trim the vegetables as appropriate,
then add them to the pan that the beef has just
come out of and gently brown the edges. Then
place this, along with the garlic and herbs, in the
ovenproof dish with the meat.
6 Add the reduced red wine to the casserole, then
pour in enough stock to cover the meat and
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions vegetables. Bring to the boil, then cook in the
Beef oven preheated to 180 °C for 40 minutes; after
Beef shin pre-soaked in red wine 600 g 1.5 kg that, turn the oven down to 90–95 °C and cook
(see below) for 12 hours for a further 4 hours until tender.
Inexpensive red Bordeaux wine 1 bottle 2 bottles
7 Remove from the oven and allow the meat to cool
Olive oil 50 ml 125 ml in the liquor. When cold, remove any fat. Reheat
Onion 100 g 250 g gently at the same temperature to serve.
Carrot 100 g 250 g 8 Heat the garnish elements separately and sprinkle
Celery sticks 75 g 180 g over each portion. Serve with a mound of mashed
Leek 100 g 250 g potato, wilted spinach and buttered green beans.
Finish the whole dish with chopped parsley.
Cloves of garlic 2 5
Sprig fresh thyme 1 2 Variation
Bay leaf 1 2
Other joints of beef can be used here; beef or veal
Seasoning cheek can be used, reducing the time for the veal,
Veal/brown stock to cover or modernise the dish by using the slow-cooked fillet
preparation and serving the same garnish.
Garnish
Button onions, cooked 150 g 300 g
Cooked bacon lardons 150 g 300 g Professional tip
Shallow fry the beef in hot oil to brown it all over, but do
Button mushrooms, cooked 150 g 300 g
not let it boil in the oil. Then allow it to stew gently in the
Parsley, chopped 2 tsp 5 tsp red wine.
To finish
Mashed potato 300 g 750 g
Washed, picked spinach 300 g 750g
Cooked green beans 250 g 625 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,838 kJ 681 kcal 33.3 g 9.1 g 20.1 g 7.2 g 44.9 g 8.0 g 0.9 g

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Marinate the beef Gently brown the vegetables

Brown the meat Pour in stock to cover the meat and vegetables

29 Braised beef (boeuf braisé)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Lean beef (topside or thick flank) 400 g 1 kg
Dripping or oil 25 g 60 g
Onions, sliced and lightly fried 100 g 250 g
Carrots, sliced and lightly fried 100 g 250 g
Brown stock 500 ml 1.25 litres
Salt and pepper
Bouquet garni 1 2
Tomato purée 25 g 60 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,380 kJ 329 kcal 14.3 g 3.3 g 26.8 g 4.7 g 24.7 g 2.4 g Demi-glace or jus-lié 250 ml 625 ml
Using sunflower oil.

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Method 1 10 Replace the meat; do not cover, but baste


frequently and continue cooking for approximately
1 Trim and tie the joint securely. 2–2½ hours in all. Braised beef should be
2 Season and colour quickly on all sides in hot fat well cooked (allow 35 minutes per 0.5 kg plus
to seal the joint. 35 minutes). To test if cooked, pierce with a
3 Place the lightly fried, sliced vegetables into a trussing needle – it should penetrate the meat
small braising pan (any pan with a tight-fitting lid easily and there should be no sign of blood.
that may be placed in the oven) or in a casserole. 11 Remove the joint and correct the colour,
4 Place the joint on to the vegetables. seasoning and consistency of the sauce.
5 Add the stock, which should come two-thirds of 12 To serve: remove the string and carve slices
the way up the meat, and season lightly. across the grain. Pour some of the sauce over the
slices and serve the remainder of the sauce in a
6 Add the bouquet garni and tomato purée and, if
sauceboat.
available, add a few mushroom trimmings.
7 Bring to the boil, skim and cover with a lid. Cook
in a moderate oven at 150–200 °C.
Method 2
As for Method 1, but when the joint and vegetables are
8 After approximately 1½ hours’ cooking, remove
browned, sprinkle with 25 g (60 g for 10 portions) flour
the meat.
and singe in the oven; add the tomato purée, stock
9 Add the demi-glace or jus-lié, reboil, skim and and bouquet garni; season and complete the recipe.
strain.

Trim the joint neatly Tie the joint securely before braising it Place the joint in the pan on a layer of
vegetables

Note Healthy eating tips


l Trim off as much fat as possible before frying and
Suitable garnishes include spring vegetables or pasta. drain off all surplus fat after frying.
Red wine may be used in place of stock. l Use the minimum amount of salt.
l Skim all fat from the finished sauce.
l Serve with plenty of potatoes and vegetables.

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30 Boiled silverside, carrots and dumplings

Ingedient 4 portions 10 portions Note


Silverside, pre-soaked in brine 400 g 1 kg
A large joint of silverside is approximately 6 kg; for this
Onions 200 g 500 g size of joint, soak it overnight and allow 25 minutes
Carrots 200 g 500 g cooking time per 0.5 kg plus 25 minutes.
Suet paste 100 g 250 g The beef is salted because this gives the desired flavour.
The meat is usually salted before it is delivered to the
kitchen.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,068 kJ 254 kcal 10.17 g 4.6 g 15.5 g 5.5 g 26.3 g 2.6 g

1 Soak the meat in cold water for 1–2 hours to Healthy eating tips
Adding carrots, onions, boiled potatoes and a green
remove excess brine. vegetable will give a healthy balance.
2 Place in a saucepan and cover with cold water,
bring to the boil, skim and simmer for 45 minutes.
Variation
3 Add the whole prepared onions and carrots and
simmer until cooked. Herbs can be added to the dumplings.

4 Divide the suet paste into even pieces and lightly Boiled brisket and tongue can be served with the
mould into balls (dumplings). silverside.

5 Add the dumplings and simmer for a further French-style boiled beef is prepared using unsalted thin
flank or brisket with onions, carrots, leeks, celery, cabbage
15–20 minutes.
and a bouquet garni, all cooked and served together,
6 Serve by carving the meat across the grain, accompanied with pickled gherkins and coarse salt.
garnish with carrots, onions and dumplings, and
moisten with a little of the cooking liquor.

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31 Steak pudding 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 6 Cook in a steamer for at least 3½ hours for a four-
portion pudding, or approximately 1½ hours for
Suet paste (see page 464) 200 g 500 g
individual puddings.
Prepared stewing beef (chuck 400 g 1 kg
steak) 7 Serve with the paper and cloth removed, clean
Worcester sauce 1 tsp 2½ tsp the basin, place on a round flat dish and fasten a
napkin round the basin.
Parsley, chopped 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Extra gravy should be served separately. If the gravy in
Salt, pepper
the pudding is to be thickened, the meat can be lightly
Onion, chopped (optional) 50–100 g 125–250 g floured.
Water 125 ml 300 ml
approximately approximately. Healthy eating tips
l Use little or no salt as the Worcester sauce
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre contains salt.
1,369 kJ 326 kcal 17.3 g 7.8 g 20.6 g 1.0 g 23.0 g 1.1 g l Trim off as much fat as possible from the raw
stewing beef.
1 Line a greased ½ litre basin with three-quarters of l Serve with plenty of potatoes and vegetables.
the suet paste and retain one-quarter for the top.
2 Mix all the other ingredients, except the water, Variation
together.
Try:
3 Place in the basin with the water to within 1 cm of l adding 50–100 g ox or sheep’s kidneys cut in pieces
the top. with skin and gristle removed
l adding 50–100 g sliced or quartered mushrooms
4 Moisten the edge of the suet paste, cover with the
l making the steak pudding with a cooked filling; in
top and seal firmly. which case, simmer the meat until cooked in brown
5 Cover with greased greaseproof paper and also, if stock with onions, parsley, Worcester sauce and
possible, foil or a pudding cloth tied securely with seasoning; cool quickly and proceed as above,
string. steaming for 1–1½ hours.

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Line the basin with suet paste Fill the basin, then cover the top with paste

Make a foil cover for the basin, with a fold to allow it to expand Tie the cover over the basin securely

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32 Goulash

1 Remove excess fat from the beef. Cut into 2 cm


square pieces.
2 Season and fry in the hot fat until slightly
coloured. Add the chopped onion.
3 Cover with a lid and sweat gently for 3–4 minutes.
4 Add the flour and paprika and mix in with a
wooden spoon.
5 Cook out in the oven or on top of the stove. Add
the tomato purée, mix in.
6 Gradually add the stock, stir to the boil, skim,
season and cover.
7 Allow to simmer, preferably in the oven, for
approximately 1½–2 hours until the meat is
tender.
8 Add the potatoes and check that they are covered
with the sauce. (Add more stock if required.)
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
9 Re-cover with the lid and cook gently until the
Prepared stewing beef 400 g 1 kg potatoes are cooked.
Lard or oil 35 g 100 g
10 Skim and correct the seasoning and consistency.
Onions, chopped 100 g 250 g A little cream or yoghurt may be added at the last
Flour 25 g 60 g moment.
Paprika 10–25 g 25–60 g 11 Serve sprinkled with a few gnocchis made from
Tomato purée 25 g 60 g choux paste (see page 459), reheated in hot salted
Stock or water 750 ml 2 litres water or lightly tossed in butter or margarine.
(approximately) (approximately) Alternatively, garnish with turned potatoes.
Turned potatoes or small new 8 20
potatoes Healthy eating tips
l Trim off as much fat as possible before frying and
Choux paste (see page 459) 125 ml 300 ml
drain all surplus fat after frying.
l Use the minimum amount of salt to season the meat.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
l Serve with a large side salad.
1,625 kJ 389 kcal 20.4 g 6.0 g 26.1 g 3.9 g 26.9 g 1.7 g

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33 Cornish pasties

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Short paste (see page 446) 200 g 500 g
Potato (raw), finely diced 100 g 250 g
Raw beef, chuck or skirt, cut into 100 g 250 g
thin pieces
Onion or leeks, chopped 50 g 125 g
Swede (raw), finely diced (optional) 50 g 125 g
Egg wash

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,217 kJ 290 kcal 16.2 g 6.0 g 29.3 g 1.2 g 8.7 g 1.8 g

1 Roll out the short paste to 3 mm thick and cut into


Note
rounds 12 cm in diameter.
2 Mix the remaining ingredients together, moisten The filling can be made from cooked meat that has been
quickly chilled and held at 3 °C.
with a little water and place in the rounds in piles.
Brush the edges with egg wash.
3 Fold in half and seal; flute the edge and brush Healthy eating tips
evenly with egg wash. l Adding baked beans, tomatoes and/or mushrooms
will ‘dilute’ the fat from the meat.
4 Cook in a moderate oven at 150–200 °C for l Serve with a large portion of vegetables.
½–1 hour.
5 Serve with a suitable sauce/gravy, or hot or cold
Variation
as a snack.
Variations include:
l potato, onion or leek, and turnip or swede, with fresh
herbs
l bacon, hard-boiled eggs and leeks
l lamb, carrot and potato
l apples, cinnamon, cloves, brown sugar, cider
l puff pastry.

Ingredients for Cornish pasties Place the filling on to the pastry Fold the pastry over and seal the edge

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34 Steak pie 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Cut the meat into 2 cm strips then cut into
squares.
Prepared stewing beef (chuck 400 g 1 kg
steak) 2 Heat the oil in a frying pan until smoking, add the
Oil or dripping 50 ml 125 ml meat and quickly brown on all sides.
Onion, chopped (optional) 100 g 250 g 3 Drain the meat off in a colander.
Worcester sauce, few drops 4 Lightly fry the onion.
Parsley, chopped 1 tsp 2½ tsp 5 Place the meat, onion, Worcester sauce, parsley
Water, stock, red wine or dark beer 125 ml 300 ml and the liquid in a pan, season lightly with salt and
Salt, pepper
pepper.
Cornflour 10 g 25 g 6 Bring to the boil, skim, then allow to simmer
gently until the meat is tender.
Short, puff or rough puff paste (see 100 g 250 g
pages 446, 465 and 467) 7 Dilute the cornflour with a little water, stir into the
simmering mixture, reboil and correct seasoning.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
8 Place the mixture into a pie dish and allow to cool.
1,442 kJ 346 kcal 22.2 g 2.9 g 13.6 g 1.8 g 24.3 g 0.4 g

Using puff pastry (McCance data). 9 Cover with the paste, egg wash and bake at
200 °C for approximately 30–45 minutes.

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Dice the steak evenly Coat the meat in cornflour before frying it

Cover the top with paste and trim off the excess Press gently to ensure a seal between the paste and the dish

Healthy eating tips Variation


l Use little or no salt as the Worcester sauce
Try:
contains salt.
l adding 50–100 g ox or sheep’s kidneys with skin and
l Fry in a small amount of an unsaturated oil and drain
gristle removed and cut into neat pieces
off all excess fat after frying.
l adding 50–100 g sliced or quartered mushrooms
l There will be less fat in the dish if short paste is used.
l adding 1 heaped teaspoon of tomato purée and
l Serve with boiled potatoes and plenty of vegetables.
some mixed herbs
l in place of cornflour, the meat can be tossed in flour
before frying off
l in place of plain flour, 25–50 per cent wholemeal flour
may be used in the pastry.

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35 Roast wing of beef

Ingredient 10 portions
Wing rib of beef 1 × 2 kg
Beef dripping 25 g
Yorkshire puddings (see recipe 36), prepared English
mustard or horseradish sauce, to serve
Gravy
Carrots (for the mirepoix) 50 g
Onion (for the mirepoix) 50 g
Red wine 200 ml
Plain flour 30 g
Beef stock 300 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


3,185 kJ 758 kcal 31.0 g 13.0 g 31.6 g 4.5 g 90.0 g 1.6 g

1 Preheat the oven to 195 °C. To complete


2 Place the dripping in a heavy roasting tray and Slice the beef and warm the Yorkshire puddings (see
heat on the stove top. recipe 37), serve with the gravy, horseradish and
3 Place the beef in the tray and brown well on all mustard.
sides.
4 Place in the oven on 195 °C for 15 minutes then Professional tip
turn down to 75 °C for 2 hours. This dish would work well with most vegetables or
potatoes. As an alternative, why not add slightly
5 Remove and allow to rest before carving.
blanched root vegetables to the roasting tray at the start
of the beef cooking, remove and reheat for service?
For the gravy They will obtain maximum flavour from the beef and
juices.
1 Remove the beef. Place the tray with the fat,
sediment and the juice back on the stove.
2 Add the mirepoix and brown well.
3 Add the red wine and reduce by two-thirds.
4 Mix the flour and a little stock together to form a
viscous batter-like mix.
5 Add the stock to the roasting tray and bring to the
boil.
6 Pour in the flour mix and whisk into the liquid in
the tray.
7 Bring to the boil, simmer and correct the
seasoning.
8 Pass through a sieve and retain for service.

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36 Yorkshire pudding

1 Place the flour and eggs into a mixing bowl and


mix to a smooth paste.
2 Gradually whisk in the milk and water and place
in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Preheat the oven to
190 °C.
3 Heat the pudding trays in the oven with a little
dripping or oil in each well.
4 Carefully ladle the mixture in, up to about two-
thirds full.
5 Place in the oven and slowly close the door (if
you have a glass-fronted door it will be easy to
monitor progress; if not, after about 30 minutes
check the puddings). The myth about opening
the door during cooking has an element of truth
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions in it – however, it is slamming and the speed at
Flour 85 g 215 g which the door is opened that have most effect,
Eggs 2 5 so have just a small, careful peek to check and
Milk 85 ml 215 ml see if they are ready.
Water 40 ml 100 ml 6 For the last 10 minutes of cooking, invert the
Dripping or oil 20 g 50 g
puddings (take out and turn upside down in the
tray) to dry out the base.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium 7 Serve immediately.
730 kJ 174 kcal 9.3 g 2.1 g 17.5 g 1.3 g 6.3 g 0.9 g 0.1 g

Professional tip
The oven, and the oil, must be very hot before the
mixture is placed into the pudding tray; if they are not
hot enough, the puddings will not rise.

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37 Slow-cooked sirloin with lyonnaise onions


and carrot purée

For the beef:


1 Preheat the oven to 180 °C. Season the beef and
heat the oil in the pan. Add the garlic, thyme, bay
leaves and the beef.
2 Place the beef in the oven for 15 minutes. Remove
and turn the oven down to 70 °C. When the oven
has reached this new temperature, return the beef
to it for a further 1 hour 10 minutes.
3 While the beef is cooking, make the lyonnaise onions
and carrot purée (see below) and keep warm.
For the onions:
1 Finely slice the onions and put them into a large
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions induction pan while cold.
Beef
2 Put on medium heat and season.
Sirloin, outer skin removed, with fat 1 kg 3 kg
tied back on 3 When the onions are starting to colour, turn down
and cook slowly for approximately 2 hours.
Oil 50 ml 125 ml
Clove of garlic, sliced 1 2
4 Cool and refrigerate.
Sprigs of thyme 1 2 For the carrot purée:
Bay leaves 1 2 1 Peel the carrots. Liquidise half of them into carrot
Lyonnaise onions juice and place the juice into a small pan.
Onions 200 g 500 g 2 Cut the remaining carrots into equal slices of
Seasoning about 1 cm and place into the carrot juice.
Carrot purée 3 Boil the carrots, ensuring that you scrape down
Medium-sized carrots 600 g 1.5 kg the sides of the pan.
Star anise 1 2 4 For the last 8 minutes of cooking, before all the
To serve liquid has completely evaporated, drop in the star
anise. Pass, retaining the juice.
Jus de viande (meat juice) 150 ml 375 ml
5 Remove the star anise and blitz the purée for
Sprigs of chervil
7 minutes, adding the retained juice.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium To finish:
2,436 kJ 584 kcal 26.9 g 7.4 g 13.5 g 11.2 g 72.5 g 5.9 g 0.8 g
1 When the beef is cooked, remove from the oven
and carve evenly. Place a portion of carrot purée
and lyonnaise onions on each plate. Top with the
beef and pour over the jus de viande (meat juice),
garnish with sprigs of chervil and serve.

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Veal dishes

38 Escalope of veal

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Nut or cushion of veal 400 g 1 kg
Seasoned flour 25 g 60 g
Egg 1 2½
Breadcrumbs 50 g 125 g
Oil, for frying 50 g 125 g
Butter, for frying 50 g 125 g
Beurre noisette (optional) 50 g 125 g
Jus-lié (page 97) 60 ml 150 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


2,079 kJ 495 kcal 39.8 g 11.4 g 10.3 g 0.5 g 24.7 g 1.0 g

Veal escalope Holstein Fried in sunflower oil, using butter to finish.

1 Trim and remove all sinew from the veal.


Healthy eating tips
2 Cut into four even slices and bat out thinly using a l Use an unsaturated oil to fry the veal.
little water. l Make sure the fat is hot so that less will be absorbed
into the crumb.
3 Flour, egg and crumb. Shake off surplus crumbs.
l Drain the cooked escalope on kitchen paper.
Mark with a palette knife. l Use the minimum amount of salt.
4 Place the escalopes into shallow hot fat and cook l Serve with plenty of starchy carbohydrate and
quickly for a few minutes on each side. vegetables.

5 Dress on a serving dish or plate.


6 An optional finish is to pour over 50 g beurre Variation
noisette (nut-brown butter) and finish with a Escalope of veal Viennoise: as for this recipe, but
cordon of jus-lié. garnish the dish with chopped yolk and white of egg and
The escalopes need to be batted out thinly. Excess chopped parsley; on top of each escalope place a slice
breadcrumbs must be shaken off before the escalopes of peeled lemon decorated with chopped egg yolk, egg
white and parsley, an anchovy fillet and a stoned olive;
are placed into the hot fat. finish with a little lemon juice and nut-brown butter.
Veal escalope Holstein: prepare and cook the
escalopes as for this recipe; add an egg fried in butter or
oil, and place two neat fillets of anchovy criss-crossed
on each egg; serve.
Escalope of veal with spaghetti and tomato sauce:
prepare escalopes as for this recipe, then garnish with
spaghetti with tomato sauce (page 141), allowing 10 g
spaghetti per portion.

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39 Breadcrumbed veal escalope with ham and


cheese (escalope de veau cordon bleu)

1 Trim and remove all sinew from the veal.


2 Cut into eight even slices (20 slices for ten
portions) and bat out thinly using a little water.
3 Place a slice of ham and a slice of cheese on to
four of the veal slices (ten slices for ten portions),
cover with the remaining veal slices and press
together firmly.
4 Flour, egg and crumb. Shake off all surplus
crumbs and shape like a diamond. Mark on one
side with crossed lines using a palette knife.
5 Place the escalopes marked side down into the
hot oil (with butter if desired) and cook quickly for
a few minutes on each side, until golden brown.
6 An optional finish is to serve coated with beurre
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions noisette (nut-brown butter) and a cordon of jus-lié.
Nut or cushion of veal 400 g 1 kg
Cooked ham, sliced 4 10 Note
Gruyère cheese, sliced 4 10 Veal escalopes may be cooked plain (not crumbed), in
Seasoned flour 25 g 60 g which case they are only slightly batted out.

Egg, beaten 1 2½
Breadcrumbs 50 g 125 g Healthy eating tips
l No added salt is needed as there is plenty in the ham
Oil 50 g 125 g
and cheese.
Butter (optional) 100 g 250 g l This is a high-fat dish so serve with plenty of starchy
Beurre noisette (optional) 50 g 125 g carbohydrates and vegetables to ‘dilute’ the fat.
Jus-lié 60 ml 150 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


2,632 kJ 627 kcal 48.1 g 16.3 g 12.0 g 1.3 g 37.1 g 0.7 g

Fried in sunflower oil, using butter to finish.

Bat out the escalopes Layer the veal, ham and cheese Coat the escalope with breadcrumbs and
mark on one side

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40 Veal escalope with Parma ham and 


mozzarella cheese (involtini di vitello)

1 Sprinkle each slice of veal lightly with flour and


flatten.
2 Place a slice of Parma ham on each escalope.
3 Add several slices of mozzarella cheese to each.
4 Add a sage leaf or a light sprinkling of dried sage.
5 Season, roll up each escalope and secure with
a toothpick or cocktail stick. Make sure the ham
and cheese are well sealed within the escalope
before cooking.
6 Melt the butter in a sauté pan, add the escalopes
and brown on all sides.

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


7 Transfer the escalopes and butter to a suitably
sized ovenproof dish.
Small, thin veal escalopes 400 g (8 in total) 1 kg (20 in total)
8 Sprinkle generously with grated Parmesan cheese
Flour (for dusting)
and bake in a moderately hot oven at 190 °C for
Parma ham, thinly sliced 100 g 250 g
10 minutes.
Mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced 200 g 500 g
9 Clean the edges of the dish and serve.
Fresh sage leaves 8 20
or Healthy eating tips
dried sage 1 tsp 2½ tsp l Use a small amount of oil to fry the escalopes and
drain the cooked escalopes on kitchen paper.
Salt, pepper l No added salt is necessary as there is plenty of salt in
Butter or oil 50 g 125 g the cheese.
l Serve with plenty of vegetables.
Parmesan cheese, grated

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,642 kJ 394 kcal 26.1 g 15.5 g 0.1 g 0.1 g 39.8 g 0.0 g

Layer the veal, ham and cheese, then roll them up Transfer the fried escalopes to an ovenproof dish and sprinkle with
cheese

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41 Fricassée of veal

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 5 Gradually add boiling stock just to cover the meat,
stir until smooth.
Boned stewing veal (shoulder or 400 g 1 kg
breast) 6 Season, bring to the boil, skim.
Butter or oil 35 g 90 g 7 Cover and simmer gently on the stove until tender
Flour 25 g 60 g (approximately 1½–2 hours).
White veal stock 500 ml 1.25 litres 8 Pick out the meat into a clean pan. Correct the
Salt, pepper sauce.
Egg yolk 1 2–3 9 Pass on to the meat and reboil. Mix the yolk and
Cream (dairy or vegetable) 2–3 tbsp 5–7 tbsp
cream in a basin.
Squeeze of lemon juice 10 Add a little of the boiling sauce, mix in and
pour back on to the meat, shaking the pan until
Parsley, chopped, to finish
thoroughly mixed; do not reboil. Add the lemon
juice.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
992 kJ 236 kcal 13.6 g 7.5 g 5.3 g 0.4 g 23.3 g 0.2 g 11 Serve, finished with chopped parsley and heart-
Using butter. shaped croutons fried in butter or oil.
1 Trim the meat. Cut into even 25 g pieces.
Professional tip
2 Sweat the meat gently in the butter without colour
After adding the flour, cook carefully so that it does not
in a sauté pan. colour.
3 Mix in the flour and cook out without colour.
Add the liaison of yolks and cream carefully. Do not
4 Allow to cool. allow the sauce to boil after this, because it will curdle.

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Ingredients for fricassée of veal Cook the meat and flour

Add the stock and continue to cook Add the liaison of egg yolk and cream

Healthy eating tips Variation


l Add the minimum amount of salt.
Add mushrooms and button onions. Proceed as for this
l Brush the croutons with olive oil and bake them, or
recipe but, after 1 hour’s cooking, pick out the meat,
serve with sippets (small, thin pieces of toasted bread).
strain the sauce back on to the meat and add 2 small
l A large serving of starchy carbohydrates and
button onions per portion. Simmer for 15 minutes, add 2
vegetables will help to proportionally reduce the fat
small white button mushrooms per portion, washed and
content.
peeled if necessary, then complete the cooking. Finish
and serve as in this recipe. This is known as fricassée de
veau à l’ancienne.

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42 Braised shin of veal (osso buco) 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Preheat the oven to 180 °C.


Salt and ground pepper 2 Season the flour and use to coat the meat well on
both sides.
Plain flour 45 g 112 g
Thick slices of veal shin on the bone 4 × 200 g 10 × 200 g
3 Heat the butter and oil in a casserole, add the
veal and fry, turning once, until browned on both
Butter 50 g 125 g
sides. Add the wine and cook, uncovered, for
Oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp 10 minutes. Blanch, peel and chop the tomatoes,
White wine 150 ml 375 ml and add along with the stock and herbs.
Plum tomatoes 450 g 1.1 kg 4 Cover and cook in the centre of the oven until
Light veal or chicken stock 300 ml 750 ml the meat is very tender and falls away from the
Sprigs of parsley and thyme marrow bone in the middle.
Bay leaf 1 1
Delicious served with sauté potatoes or with a risotto
alla Milanese.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,732 kJ 413 kcal 19.7 g 8.5 g 12.5 g 3.9 g 47.3 g 1.5 g Note
Part of the attraction of this dish is the marrow found
in the bones. Although very rich, it is a special treat.
Traditionally, osso buco is served with a gremolata,
which is a combination of chopped parsley, garlic and
lemon zest that is added to the dish at the very end. It
has been omitted from this recipe, offering you a simple
base.

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Pork dishes

43 Pork escalope with calvados sauce

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Core and peel the apples.


Crisp eating apples (e.g. russet) 2 5 2 Cut into 0.5 cm-thick rings and sprinkle with a little
cinnamon and a few drops of lemon juice.
Cinnamon ¼ tsp ¾ tsp
Lemon juice 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
3 Place on a baking sheet, sprinkle with brown
sugar and a little melted butter, and caramelise
Brown sugar 2 tsp 5 tsp
under the salamander or in the top of a hot oven.
Butter, melted 25 g 60 g
4 Lightly sauté the escalopes on both sides in the
Pork escalopes 4 × 100 g 10 × 100 g butter.
Butter or oil 50 g 125 g
5 Remove from the pan and keep warm.
Shallots or onions, finely chopped 50 g 125 g
6 Add the chopped shallots to the same pan, cover
Calvados 30 ml 75 ml with a lid and cook gently without colouring (use a
Double cream or natural yoghurt 125 ml 300 ml little more butter if necessary).
Salt, cayenne pepper 7 Strain off the fat, leaving the shallots in the pan,
Basil, sage or rosemary, chopped and deglaze with the calvados.
8 Reduce by a half and then add the cream or
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre yoghurt, seasoning and herbs.
1,856 kJ 447 kcal 34.2 g 20.3 g 12.7 g 12.5 g 22.8 g 1.1 g

Using lean meat only, and double cream. 9 Reboil, correct the seasoning and consistency,
and pass through a fine strainer on to the meat.
Variation 10 Garnish with slices of caramelised apple.
Special care must be taken not to overheat if using
Calvados can be replaced with twice the amount of
cider and reduced by three-quarters as an alternative. yoghurt, otherwise the sauce will curdle.

Add a crushed clove of garlic and 1 tablespoon of Healthy eating tips


continental mustard (2–3 cloves and 2½ tablespoons for l Use a little unsaturated oil to sauté the escalopes.
10 portions). l Add the minimum amount of salt.
l Try using yoghurt stabilised with a little cornflour, or
half cream and half yoghurt.

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44 Sweet and sour pork

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Loin of pork, boned 250 g 600 g
Sugar 12 g 30 g
Dry sherry 70 ml 180 ml
Soy sauce 70 ml 180 ml
Cornflour 50 g 125 g
Vegetable oil, for frying 70 ml 180 ml
Oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Clove of garlic 1 2½
Fresh root ginger 50 g 125 g
Onion, chopped 75 g 180 g
Green pepper, in 1 cm dice 1 2½
Chillies, chopped 2 5
Sweet and sour sauce (see page 210 ml 500 ml
103)
Pineapple rings (fresh or canned) 1 3
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
3,067 kJ 730 kcal 43.9 g 9.2 g 69.7 g 54.7 g 13.4 g 1.6 g Spring onions 2 5

1 Cut the boned loin of pork into 2 cm pieces. 7 Stir in the sweet and sour sauce, bring to the boil.
2 Marinate the pork for 30 minutes in the sugar, 8 Add the pineapple cut into small chunks,
sherry and soy sauce. thicken slightly with diluted cornflour. Simmer for
3 Pass the pork through cornflour, pressing the 2 minutes.
cornflour in well. 9 Deep-fry the pork again until crisp. Drain, mix into
4 Deep-fry the pork pieces in oil at 190 °C until the vegetables and sauce or serve separately.
golden brown, then drain. Add the tablespoons of 10 Serve garnished with rings of spring onions or
oil to a sauté pan. button onions.
5 Add the garlic and ginger, and fry until fragrant.
Professional tip
6 Add the onion, pepper and chillies, sauté for a few
It is important to allow the pork enough time to marinate.
minutes.

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45 Stir-fried pork fillet

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Shallots, finely chopped 2 5
Clove of garlic (optional), chopped 1 2½
Button mushrooms, sliced 200 g 500 g
Olive oil
Pork fillet 400 g 1 kg
Chinese five-spice powder 1 pinch 2½ pinches
Soy sauce 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Clear honey 2 tsp 5 tsp
Dry white wine 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Salt, pepper

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


831 kJ 199 kcal 9.8 g 2.2 g 5.1 g 4.2 g 22.9 g 0.8 g

1 Gently fry the shallots, garlic and sliced 3 Add the soy sauce, honey and wine, and reduce
mushrooms in a little oil in a frying pan or wok. for 2–3 minutes.
2 Add the pork cut into strips, stir well, increase 4 Correct the seasoning and serve.
the heat, season and add the Chinese five-spice
powder; cook for 3–4 minutes then reduce the Healthy eating tips
heat. l No extra salt is needed, as soy sauce is added.
l Adding more vegetables and a large portion of rice or
noodles can reduce the overall fat content.

46 Sauerkraut, ham hocks and lentils

Sauerkraut is made by a process of pickling called


lacto-fermentation. The bacteria and yeasts needed
for the fermentation process are found on the cabbage
leaves. No additional bacteria are added for this
reaction to take place.
The process of making sauerkraut begins by washing
and finely slicing white cabbage. It is put into a large
pot, a specific amount of salt is mixed in and it is
mashed with a cabbage masher. This allows the
cabbage juices to be extracted: it produces enough
to cover the cabbage in liquid. It is important for the
cabbage to be completely covered in liquid to keep air
out – any cabbage exposed to air would spoil during
the fermentation process.

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Using salt in this way is a process that can extract the Sauerkraut – modern
natural juices of many ingredients by breaking down
the cell structure. In meat, this ‘tightening action’ interpretation
affects the myosin protein, while in vegetables it breaks
down the cell wall structure – commonly done when Ingredient 8–10 portions

preparing cauliflower for piccalilli or aubergine for Head of white cabbage 1


ratatouille. Salt 10 g
The cabbage, covered with its juices, is put into a large, Oil 50 ml
covered, airtight container and allowed to ferment
Butter 50 g
for four to six weeks. The bacteria and yeast begin
Streaky bacon, cut into lardons 300 g
the fermentation process. Over time, the lactic acid
bacteria become active, converting the sugars in the Shallots, sliced 2
cabbage into lactic acid. The sauerkraut is ready when Juniper berries 5
the desired ‘sourness’ is obtained. Alsace-style wine 250 ml
Sauerkraut can keep for several months if it is stored Chicken stock 1 litre
in an airtight container and stored at or below 13 °C.
Refrigeration is not essential, but it greatly increases 1 Shred the cabbage and place in a colander over
the shelf life of the sauerkraut. Many commercial a dish. Sprinkle with the salt and leave to extract
producers also use pasteurisation to further increase the liquid for an hour.
its shelf life.
2 Squeeze out the remaining liquid by hand, wash
If you can plan ahead, then this is a worthwhile recipe to
the cabbage and pat dry with kitchen towel.
make. It highlights some of the near-forgotten culinary
techniques that are making a comeback at every level 3 Heat the oil and butter in a pan and add the
of gastronomy. bacon. Cook until the bacon is crisp and has
Below there are two methods for making sauerkraut: released its fat into the pan.
traditional and modern. Alternatively, use 600 g of 4 Add the cabbage and cook until soft, without
ready-made sauerkraut for this ham hock recipe. colour.
5 Add the juniper, and then deglaze with the wine
Sauerkraut – traditional method and reduce until half the liquid has evaporated.
6 Add the chicken stock and reduce the heat until
Ingedient 8–10 portions the cabbage mix is soft and has absorbed the
Head of white cabbage 1 liquid (you may have to regularly top up with a little
Salt 40 g water to aid the cooking).

1 Finely slice the cabbage. Mix with the salt and


mash down, encouraging the cell structure to
break down and extracting the natural liquid from
the cabbage.
2 Ensure that the cabbage is completely covered
with the liquid.
3 Place the cabbage in a covered container (not
air sealed as the bacteria need air movement) for
four to six weeks, until the cabbage takes on the
natural sourness.
4 Store in an airtight jar for up to six months at
13 °C, or place in the fridge if a longer shelf life is
required.

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For the ham hocks For the lentils


Ingredient 8–10 portions Ingredient 8–10 portions
Ham hocks, about 1.3 kg 2 Puy lentils 250 g
Onion, quartered 1 Butter 75 g
Carrots, quartered lengthways 2 Large onion, peeled and finely diced 1
Celery sticks, cut into thirds crossways 2 Large carrot, peeled and finely diced 1
Fresh thyme, few sprigs Celery stick, finely diced 1
Bay leaf Fresh parsley, coarsely chopped 1 heaped tbsp
Stock from cooking the hams, strained 900 ml
1 Before starting the cooking process, blanch the
hocks to rinse away any impurities and excess salt. 1 First blanch the lentils by plunging them into a
2 Put the joints in a large saucepan, cover with cold pan of boiling water, then drain into a sieve and
water and bring to the boil. refresh under the cold tap. (This process not only
3 Reduce the heat and simmer for 1 minute, then rinses the lentils well, it also speeds up the entire
carefully move the pan to the sink and drain off braising process and stops the lentils breaking
the hot water. before the cooking process has finished.)
4 Refresh the hams under cold running water for a 2 Melt the butter in a medium saucepan. Add the
minute or so, then tip out the water. diced onion, carrot and celery, cover the pan and
cook without colouring for 5–6 minutes.
5 Put the blanched hams in the pan, and add the
onion, carrots, celery sticks, thyme and bay leaf. 3 Tip in the blanched lentils, then pour in the
reserved stock from the hams.
6 Pour in enough fresh cold water to cover and
bring to a simmer. 4 Bring the lentils to a simmer and cook for about
30 minutes, until tender. Check occasionally and
7 The pan can now be covered with its lid and
top up with more stock if needed.
the hams cooked, keeping the liquor at a gentle
simmer for 3 hours.
8 To check if the hams are cooked, pull out the
To finish
small bone close to the large one – it should be Warm the sauerkraut gently in a pan and place on a
loose and come out easily. large serving plate. Scatter the shredded ham over the
top of the cabbage. Add the coarsely chopped parsley
9 Rest the hams in the stock for 15–20 minutes.
to the lentils, and season with a twist of pepper, then
10 Lift out the hams and set aside until cool enough scatter the lentils over the dish and serve with crusty
to handle. Wrap in cling film to retain the moisture. sourdough bread.
11 Retain 900 ml of the stock to cook the lentils.
12 About 10 minutes before the lentils are ready, strip
off the skin and fat from the hams with a knife, Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
then remove the meat from the bones and cut it 2295 kJ 550 kcal 31.0 g 12.4 g 29.0 g 12.4 g 40.0 g 10.7 g 2.4 g

into rough pieces or shred it with your fingers. Using the traditional method and a pork leg joint.

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47 Boiled bacon

1 Soak the bacon in cold water for 24 hours before


cooking. Change the water.
2 Bring to the boil, skim and simmer gently
(approximately 25 minutes per 0.5 kg, plus
another 25 minutes). Allow to cool in the liquid.
3 Remove the rind and brown skin; carve.
4 Serve with a little of the cooking liquor.
Boiled bacon may be served with pease pudding (a
purée of yellow split peas) and a suitable sauce such
as parsley (see page 85). It may also be served cold,
or used as an ingredient in other dishes.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,543 kJ 367 kcal 30.5 g 12.2 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 23.1 g 0.0 g

Using 113 g per portion.

48 Roast leg of pork

3 Place on a trivet in a roasting tin with a little oil or


dripping on top.
4 Start to cook in a hot oven at 230–250 °C, basting
frequently.
5 Gradually reduce the heat to 180–185 °C, allowing
approximately 25 minutes per 0.5 kg plus another
25 minutes. Pork must always be well cooked. If
using a probe, the minimum temperature should
be 75 °C for 2 minutes.
6 When cooked, remove from the pan and prepare
a roast gravy from the sediment (see page 96).
7 Remove the crackling and cut into even pieces for
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
serving.
1,357 kJ 323 kcal 22.4 g 8.9 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 30.4 g 0.0 g Serve the joint garnished with picked watercress and
113 g portion. accompanied by roast gravy, sage and onion dressing
and apple sauce. If to be carved, proceed as for roast
1 Prepare leg for roasting (see page 228).
lamb (see page 221).
2 Moisten with water, oil, cider, wine or butter and
lard, then sprinkle with salt, rubbing it well into the Variation
cracks of the skin. This will make the crackling
Other joints can also be used for roasting (e.g. loin,
crisp. shoulder and spare rib).

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49 Roast pork belly with shallots and 


champ potatoes

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Place the pork on a rack in a roasting tray; season
and oil. Roast in the oven for 10 minutes at 200 °C
Pork belly 1.2 kg 3 kg
and then for 3–3½ hours at 140 °C.
Salt, pepper
2 Peel the shallots, fry gently in half the butter until
Olive oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
caramelised. Keep warm.
Shallots 20 50
3 Purée the potatoes.
Butter 70 g 175 g
4 Melt the remaining butter in a pan and sauté the
Potatoes, peeled and chopped 1 kg 2.5 kg spring onions until soft. Add the spring onion and
Spring onions, chopped 8 20 the butter to the potato purée.
Double cream 4 tbsp 10 tbsp 5 Add the cream and mix well.
6 Serve the pork with the caramelised shallots and
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,680 kJ 645 kcal 50.5 g 18.3 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 47.8 g 0.0 g 0.2 g
potato.
7 Serve with a reduced brown stock flavoured
with cider; alternatively, a red wine sauce may be
served.

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50 Slow-roast belly of pork

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Pork belly 1.2 kg 3 kg
Salt and pepper

1 Preheat the oven to 145 °C.


2 Season the pork with salt and pepper.
3 Place on a rack in a large roasting tray, skin-side
up.
4 Roast for 4½–5 hours, then remove from the tray.
5 Pour off excess fat and make a gravy.
6 Carve into thick slices and serve with apple
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre sauce, sage and onion dressing and a suitable
3,216 kJ 774 kcal 60.6 g 21.9 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 57.3 g 0.0 g potato and vegetable.

51 Sage and onion dressing for pork

4 portions 10 portions
Onion, chopped 50 g 125 g
Pork dripping 50 g 125 g
White breadcrumbs 100 g 250 g
Chopped parsley, pinch
Powdered sage, good pinch
Salt, pepper

Healthy eating tips


l Use a small amount of unsaturated oil instead of
dripping.
l Add the minimum amount of salt.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
865 kJ 204 kcal 12.9 g 6.3 g 20.6 g 1.9 g 2.7 g 0.2 g 0.2 g Professional tip
Modern practice is to refer to this as a dressing if served
1 Cook the onion in the dripping without colour. separately to the meat, but as stuffing if used to stuff
2 Combine all the ingredients. Dressing is usually the meat.
served separately.

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52 Spare ribs in barbecue sauce

1 Sweat the onion and garlic in the oil without


colour.
2 Mix in the vinegar, tomato purée, honey, stock,
Worcester sauce, mustard and thyme, and
season with salt.
3 Allow the barbecue sauce to simmer for 10–
15 minutes.
4 Place the prepared spare ribs fat side up on a
trivet in a roasting tin.
5 Brush the spare ribs liberally with the barbecue
sauce.
6 Place in a moderately hot oven: 180–200 °C.
7 Cook for ¾–1 hour.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 8 Baste generously with the barbecue sauce every
Onion, finely chopped 100 g 250 g 10–15 minutes.
Clove of garlic, chopped 1 2 9 The cooked spare ribs should be brown and
Oil 60 ml 150 ml crisp.
Vinegar 60 ml 150 ml 10 Cut the spare ribs into individual portions and
Tomato purée 150 g 375 g
serve.
Honey 60 ml 150 ml
Professional tip
Brown stock 250 ml 625 ml
Apply plenty of barbecue sauce before and during
Worcester sauce 4 tbsp 10 tbsp cooking, to give the ribs a good flavour.
Dry mustard 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Pinch thyme
Healthy eating tips
Salt l Sweat the onion and garlic in a little unsaturated oil.
Spare ribs of pork 2 kg 5 kg l No added salt is necessary as the Worcester sauce
is salty.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
6,151 kJ 1,465 kcal 12.6 g 37.3 g 20.3 g 17.1 g 63.5 g 0.3 g

Using sunflower oil.

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53 Roasted joint of bacon

1 Soak the joint in cold water for 24 hours.


2 Remove from the water. Dry well.
3 Place on a roasting tray and roast for
approximately 25 minutes per 0.5 kg, plus another
25 minutes.
4 Remove from the oven and allow to stand for
5 minutes before carving.
5 Use the sediment to make roast gravy (see page
96), having checked for saltiness.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre 6 The joint may be cooked in foil and, for the last
1,021 kJ 245 kcal 14.8 g 4.9 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 28.0 g 0.0 g 25–30 minutes, cooked out of the foil.

54 Meat cured in brine (saumure)

Ingredient To make 2.5 1 Boil all the ingredients together for 10 minutes,
litres of brine skimming frequently.
Cold water 2.5 litres 2 Strain into a china, wooden or earthenware
Saltpetre 15 g container.
Salt 850 g 3 When the brine is cold, add the meat.
Bay leaf 1 4 Immerse the meat for up to 10 days under
Juniper berries 6 refrigeration.
Brown sugar 50 g
Peppercorns 6

Ingredients for brine Strain the liquid Immerse the meat in the brine

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Offal dishes

55 Calf’s liver and bacon (foie de veau au lard)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Note


Calf’s liver 300 g 750 g
Liver dishes are often cooked so that the liver is still
Flour pink in the centre. It is safer to cook to a higher core
Oil, for frying 50 g 125 g temperature, especially if the dish is for anyone in a high-
risk group (see Chapter 3).
Streaky bacon 50 g 125 g
Jus-lié 125 ml 300 ml
Variation
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Lamb’s liver may be cooked in the same way. Variations
998 kJ 238 kcal 13.4 g 5.0 g 2.8 g 2.7 g 26.9 g 1.1 g
include the following:
l Fry in butter and sprinkle with powdered sage or
1 Skin the liver and remove the gristle. chopped fresh sage.
2 Cut in slices on the slant. l Fry in butter, remove the liver then deglaze the pan
with raspberry vinegar and powdered thyme.
3 Pass the slices of liver through flour and shake off l When cooked, sprinkle with chopped parsley and a
the excess. few drops of lemon juice.
4 Quickly fry on both sides in hot oil. l Flour, egg and breadcrumb the liver before cooking.
l The liver may be lightly brushed with oil and grilled.
5 Remove the rind and bone from the bacon and
grill on both sides.
6 Serve the liver and bacon with a cordon of jus-lié Healthy eating tips
l Bacon is salty, so no added salt is needed.
and a separate sauceboat of jus-lié.
l Use a little unsaturated oil to fry the liver, and drain off
any excess fat.
l Serve with boiled new potatoes and a variety of
vegetables.

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56 Grilled lambs’ kidneys (rognons grillés) 

1 Season the prepared skewered kidneys (as for


lamb kebabs, see recipe 3).
2 Brush with melted butter or oil.
3 Place on preheated, greased grill bars or on a
greased baking tray.
4 Grill fairly quickly on both sides (approximately
5–10 minutes depending on size).
5 Serve with parsley butter, picked watercress and
straw potatoes.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
614 kJ 147 kcal 10.3 g 5.9 g 0.1 g 0.1 g 13.7 g 0.0 g Healthy eating tips
l Use the minimum amount of salt.
l Serve with plenty of starchy carbohydrates and
vegetables.

57 Devilled lambs’ kidneys

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Lambs’ kidneys 8 20
Olive oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Salt, pepper
Amontillado sherry 60 ml 150 ml
White wine vinegar 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Redcurrant jelly 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Worcester sauce 3 drops 7 drops
Double cream 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
English mustard 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
692 kJ 165 kcal 8.1 g 2.7 g 2.5 g 2.4 g 17.3 g 0.0 g 0.4 g Mixed herbs, chopped

1 Prepare the kidneys: cut in half, remove the white 4 Add the Worcester sauce and season.
ducts then cut into quarters. 5 Add the cream and mustard. Simmer and reduce
2 Heat the oil in the pan. Season the kidneys and to a sauce consistency.
place in the pan. When cooked, remove. 6 Add the kidneys and warm through.
3 Add the sherry to the pan and bring to the boil, 7 Serve on a bed of pilaff rice (see page 125),
then add the vinegar and redcurrant jelly. garnished with chopped herbs.

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58 Braised calf’s cheeks with vegetables

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Season the cheeks.


Calf’s cheeks 800 g 2 kg 2 Heat the oil in a suitable pan. Sear the cheeks
on all sides. Remove and keep warm. Add to the
Salt, pepper
pan the cumin, peppercorns, cloves, celery, bay
Olive oil or vegetable oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
leaves, garlic, leeks, onions and shallots. Cook
Ground cumin ½ tsp 1¼ tsp until the vegetables start to brown.
White peppercorns ½ tsp 1¼ tsp 3 Add the cabbage and cook until wilted and
Cloves 4 10 slightly brown.
Celery, 5 mm dice 1 stick 2½ sticks 4 Add half the white wine and three-quarters of the
Bay leaves 2 5 cider.
Cloves of garlic 8 20 5 Return the cheeks to the pan. Cover and braise
Leeks, finely shredded 1 2½ in the oven for about 2½ hours, until the meat is
Onions, chopped 1 2½
tender.
Shallots, quartered 2 5 6 Remove the cheeks and vegetables from the
juices. Set aside and keep warm.
Savoy cabbage 400 g 1 kg
7 Strain the juices and return to the pan. Then add
Dry white wine 500 ml 1.25 litres
the remaining wine and cider. Bring to the boil
Cider 350 ml 875 ml
and reduce to a sauce consistency.
Chopped chives ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
8 Return the cheeks to the pan and simmer, basting
with the sauce until it is syrupy and the meat is
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2208 kJ 527 kcal 20.0 g 6.3 g 13.5 g 10.8 g 49.0 g 6.0 g 0.4 g glazed.
Using stewing steak in place of cheeks. 9 To serve, place the vegetables on plates with the
cheeks on top. Mask with the sauce and sprinkle
with chopped chives.
10 Serve with polenta or couscous.

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59 Braised oxtail (ragoût de queue de boeuf) 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Oxtail 1 kg 2.5 kg
Dripping or oil 50 g 125 g
Onion 100 g 250 g
Carrot 100 g 250 g
Flour, browned in the oven 35 g 100 g
Tomato purée 25 g 60 g
Brown stock 1 litre 2.5 litres
Bouquet garni
Clove of garlic 1 2½
Salt, pepper
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
2,481 kJ 595 kcal 38.0 g 12.0 g 12.3 g 4.7 g 51.6 g 1.4 g Parsley, chopped

1 Cut the oxtail into sections. Remove the excess fat. 7 Bring to the boil, then skim.
2 Fry on all sides in hot fat. 8 Cover with a lid and simmer in the oven until
3 Place in a braising pan or casserole. tender (approximately 3 hours).
4 Roughly cut the onion and carrot. Fry them, then 9 Remove the meat from the sauce, place in a clean
add them to the braising pan. pan.
5 Mix in the flour. 10 Correct the sauce, pass on to the meat and
reboil.
6 Add tomato purée, brown stock, bouquet garni
and garlic, and season lightly. 11 Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

Brown the pieces of oxtail Mix in the flour

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Note Variation
This is usually garnished with glazed turned or neatly cut Haricot oxtail can be made using the same recipe with
carrots and turnips, button onions, peas and diamonds the addition of 100 g (250 g for 10 portions) cooked
of beans. Oxtail must be very well cooked so that the haricot beans, added approximately ½ hour before the
meat comes away from the bone easily. oxtail has completed cooking.

Healthy eating tips


l Keep added salt to a minimum.
l Fry in a small amount of an unsaturated oil and drain
off all excess fat after frying.
l Serve with mashed potato and additional green
vegetables.

60 Shallow-fried lambs’ sweetbreads

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Sweetbreads 8 20
Seasoned flour
Oil 50 ml 125 ml
Butter 50 g 125 g
Lemon, juice of 1 2½
Parsley, chopped ½ tsp 1¼ tsp

1 Trim the sweetbreads, then blanch them for 30


seconds. Pass through seasoned flour.
2 Shallow-fry in oil for 2 minutes, turning.
3 Add butter to pan (beurre noisette), then add the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
lemon juice and chopped parsley.
1,635 kJ 396 kcal 36.0 g 11.0 g 0.4 g 0.4 g 17.6 g 0.1 g 0.4 g 4 Drain and serve.

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11 Poultry and game
This chapter is relevant to the following units: ➜ Cook and finish basic poultry dishes.
➜ Prepare poultry for basic dishes. ➜ Cook and finish basic game dishes.
➜ Prepare game for basic dishes.

Recipes included in this chapter Duck dishes


21 Duck breast steaks with cherries 327
No. Recipe Page
22 Confit duck leg with red cabbage and green 328
Grilled chicken dishes beans
1 Grilled chicken (poulet grillé) 309 23 Roast duck or duckling (canard ou caneton 329
2 Chicken spatchcock (poulet grillé à la 310 rôti)
crapaudine) 24 Sage and onion stuffing for duck 330
Shallow-fried chicken dishes 25 Cranberry and orange dressing for duck 330
3 Chicken sauté chasseur 310 Goose dishes
4 Crumbed breast of chicken with asparagus 312 26 Roast goose 331
(suprême de volaille aux pointes d’asperges)
Guinea fowl dishes
5 Paella 313
27 Suprêmes of guinea fowl with a pepper and 331
6 Chicken palak 314 basil coulis
Deep-fried chicken dishes Cold dishes
7 Deep-fried chicken 315 28 Terrine of chicken with vegetables 332
8 Chicken Kiev 315 Game dishes
Braised or steamed chicken dishes 29 Pot au feu of pigeon 333
9 Braised chicken leg forestière 316 30 Roast partridge 334
10 Steamed ballotine of chicken with herb 317 31 Traditional-contemporary roast grouse 335
stuffing and red wine jus
32 Pot-roasted quail with roast carrots and 336
11 Fricassée of chicken 318 mashed potato
Poached chicken dishes 33 Braised baron of rabbit with olives and 337
12 Chicken à la king 319 tomatoes
13 Poached suprême of chicken with Madeira 320 34 German-style saddle of hare 338
and mushroom café cream sauce
14 Confit chicken leg with leeks and artichoke 321

15
Casserole chicken dishes
Chicken in red wine (coq au vin) 322
Poultry
The term ‘poultry’ is applied to all domestic fowl bred for
Baked or tandoori chicken dishes
food, and includes turkeys, geese, ducks, fowls and pigeons.
16 Chicken pie 323
17 Tandoori chicken 324 The flesh of poultry is more easily digested than that of
butchers’ meat. It contains protein and is therefore useful
Roast chicken dishes
for building and repairing body tissues and providing heat
18 Roast chicken with dressing (poulet rôti à 325
l’anglaise) and energy. The fat content is low and it contains a high
Turkey dishes
percentage of unsaturated fatty acids.
19 Turkey escalopes 326 Originally, fowl were classified according to size and feeding
20 Roast turkey 326 by specific names as shown in Table 11.1.

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Table 11.1 Traditional classification of fowl


Fowl Weight (kg) Number of portions
Single baby chicken (poussin) 0.3–0.5 1
Double baby chicken (poussin) 0.5–0.75 2
Small roasting chicken 0.75–1 3–4
Medium roasting chicken 1–2 4–6
Large roasting or boiling chicken 2–3 6–8
Capon 3–4.5 8–12
Old boiling fowl 2.5–4

There is approximately 15 to 20 per cent bone in poultry. l Unhygienic equipment, utensils and preparation areas
increase the risk of cross-contamination and danger
Storing poultry l
to health.
Store uncooked poultry and game on trays to prevent
Chilled birds should be stored between 1 °C and 4 °C. dripping, in a separate refrigerator, at a temperature
Oven-ready birds are eviscerated (gutted and cleaned) and of 1–4 °C, preferably at the lower temperature. When
should be stored in a refrigerator. Frozen birds must be kept separate refrigerators are not available then store in the
in a deep freeze until required, but must be completely bottom of the refrigerator.
thawed, preferably in a refrigerator, before being cooked. l Wash all work surfaces with a bactericidal detergent
This procedure is essential to reduce the risk of food to kill bacteria. This is particularly important when
poisoning: chickens are potential carriers of salmonella and handling poultry and game.
campylobacter, and if birds are cooked from the frozen
state there is a risk that the centre of the bird will not reach
the required degree of heat to kill off these pathogens. Cooking, holding and serving
When using frozen poultry, check that: poultry
l the packaging is undamaged Refer to Chapter 10 for the principles related to cooking
l there are no signs of freezer burn, which is indicated by meat. All poultry must be cooked until it reaches a core
white patches on the skin temperature of 75 °C, even if this is not stated in the recipe.
l frozen birds are defrosted by moving them from the When holding cooked poultry and game dishes this should
freezer to a refrigerator. be above 65 °C.

Preparing poultry Chicken


Refer to the sections below for different types of poultry The different types of chicken are:
for specific preparation methods. For information on l Spring chickens: poussin 4–6 weeks old, used for
maintaining a safe and secure working environment; roasting and grilling.
a professional and hygienic appearance; clean food l Broiler chickens: 3–4 months old, used for roasting,
production areas, equipment and utensils; and food grilling and casseroles.
hygiene when preparing and cooking poultry, please refer l Medium roasting chickens: fully grown, tender,
to Chapters 1 and 3. prime birds, used for roasting, grilling, sauté, casseroles,
suprêmes and pies.
Additional health and safety points to reduce the risk of
l Large roasting or boiling chickens: used for
cross-contamination when preparing poultry are as follows:
roasting, boiling, casseroles and galantine.
l When preparing uncooked poultry or game and then
l Capons: specially bred, fattened cock birds used for
cooked food – or changing from one type of meat,
roasting.
poultry or game to another – equipment, working areas
l Old hens: used for stocks and soups.
and utensils must be thoroughly cleaned or changed.
l If colour-coded boards are used, it is essential that you
always use the correct colour-coded boards for the
preparation of raw or cooked poultry.

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Quality points
l Plump breast, pliable breast bone and firm flesh. l Bresse chickens are specially bred in France and are
l Skin white and unbroken. Broiler chickens have a faint highly regarded for their quality and flavour.
bluish tint. l Old birds have coarse scales, large spurs on the legs and
l Corn-fed are yellow. Free-range have more colour, a long hairs on the skin.
firmer texture and more flavour.

Video: buying
Trussing poultry http://
bit.ly/1CIMF1V

To truss a bird for roasting:

1 Place the bird on its back. 2 To facilitate carving, remove the 3 Insert a trussing needle through
wishbone. the bird, midway between the
leg joints.

4 Thread the needle through the 5 The needle comes out by the wing. 6 Turn over the chicken.
tendon and breast. 7 Run the needle under the skin
through the wing, crown and
other wing.

8 The string ends at the same place 9 The trussed bird will hold its shape
it started. Tie the ends of the string during roasting.
securely.

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To truss for boiling or pot roasting:


l Proceed as for roasting.
2
l Cut the leg sinew just below the joint.
l Bend back the legs so that they lie parallel to the breast
1 1
and secure when trussing, or insert the legs through
incisions made in the skin at the rear end of the bird,
2
and secure when trussing.

Cutting chicken
Chicken is cut into pieces as shown in the diagram. The leg
5 5
is cut into two parts: drumstick and thigh.
1 Wing 2 Breast 3 Thigh
4 Drumstick 5 Winglet 6 Carcass 6

4 4
6
3 3

Cuts of chicken

Cutting chicken for sauté, fricassée, pies, etc.

1 Remove the winglets. 2 Remove the legs from the carcass, 3 Cut off the feet.
cutting around the oyster.

4 Separate the thigh from the 5 Trim the drumstick neatly. 6 Remove each breast from the
drumstick. carcass.

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7 Separate the wing from the breast 8 Cut into the cavity, splitting the 9 Cut each breast in half.
and trim it. carcass (this may be used for stock).

10 Chicken cut for sauté, on the


bone: thighs, drumsticks, breasts,
winglets and wings.

Video: cutting
chicken for
sauté
http://bit.ly/
1Fy3JaY

Preparing a spatchcock chicken l Cut through the backbone and open out.
To prepare chicken for grilling: l Remove back and rib bones.
l Remove the wishbone. The chicken may then be grilled whole (spatchcock, see
l Cut off the claws at the first joint. recipe 2) or cut into pieces.
l Place the bird on its back.
l Insert a large knife through the neck end and out of
the vent.

Insert the knife through the neck end Remove the backbone Spatchcock chicken ready for cooking

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Preparing chicken suprêmes


A suprême is the wing and half the breast of a chicken with
the trimmed wing bone attached to the white meat. One
chicken yields two suprêmes. To cut suprêmes, use a chicken
weighing 1.25 to 1.5 kg. Removing the skin is optional.

1 Cut off both the legs. 2 Scrape the wing bone bare, 3 Cut the breasts close to the
adjoining the breasts. Cut off the breastbone and follow the bone
winglets near the joints, leaving down to the wing joint.
1.5 to 2 cm of bare bone attached.
Then remove the wishbone.

4 Cut through the joint. Pull the 5 To finish, lift the fillets from the
suprêmes off, using the knife to suprêmes and remove the sinew
assist. from each. Make an incision
lengthways, along the thick side of
the suprêmes; open and place the
fillets inside. Close, lightly flatten
with a bat moistened with water,
and trim if necessary.

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Stuffing and tying a ballotine


A ballotine is a boned, stuffed leg of bird.

Cut the leg open around the bone. Start to separate the knuckle from the meat. Lift the knuckle away (tunnel boning).
(Scrape the bone.)

Cut the bone below the knuckle. Fill the cavity of the thigh and drumstick Close up in a neat shape and secure
with stuffing. with string.

Ballotines of chicken may be cooked and served using any When cooking a large turkey, the legs are often removed,
of the recipes for chicken sauté presented in this chapter. boned, rolled and tied before roasting. The whole breast
still on the bone is known as a crown. Suprêmes can be
Cutting cooked chicken removed as for other poultry and then used in similar ways,
To cut up a cooked chicken (roasted or boiled): slicing across the breast to form an escalope which would
l Remove the legs and cut in two (drumstick and thigh). normally be batted out with a cutlet bat to gain an even
l Remove the wings. slice that can then be filled, coated and cooked.
l Separate the breast from the carcass and divide in two. Stuffings may be rolled in foil, steamed or baked and thickly
l Serve a drumstick with a wing and the thigh with the sliced. If a firmer stuffing is required, mix in one or two raw
breast. eggs before cooking.

Turkey Quality points


Turkeys can vary in weight from 3.5 to 20 kg. They are l Large full breast with undamaged skin and no signs of
trussed in the same way as chicken for roasting. The stickiness.
wishbone should always be removed before trussing in l Legs smooth with supple feet and a short spur.
order to facilitate carving. The sinews should be drawn out l As birds age the legs turn scaly and the feet harden.
of the legs. Allow 200 g per portion raw weight.

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Preparing a large turkey for roasting

1 Remove the legs; cooking them 2 Remove the leg bones. 3 Stuff and roll each leg if required.
separately will reduce the cooking
time and enable the legs and
breast to cook more evenly.

4 Tie the stuffed legs securely. 5 Cut the remainder of the bird in half, 6 The two halves, ready for roasting,
again to reduce the cooking time. with one leg left whole and the
other boned, stuffed and rolled.

Preparing a chicken or turkey crown

1 Cut off the legs. 2 Sever the leg at the joint with a 3 Cut off the front of the bird, leaving
sharp tap of the knife. the crown.

4 A prepared crown: this is useful for


roasting when only a few portions are
required or the legs are not wanted.

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Tunnel boning a turkey or chicken

1 Cut around the exposed end of the bone. 2 Scrape and cut, gently parting the flesh from the bone.

3 Push the meat down as it is freed, and lift the bone out. 4 The de-boned leg.

Ducks and geese Game


Approximate sizes are as follows: The word game is used, for culinary purposes, to describe
l duckling: 1.5–2 kg animals or birds that are hunted for food, although many
l duck: 3–4 kg birds and animals categorised as game are now being bred
l gosling: 3 kg domestically, such as squab (pigeon), duck and venison.
l goose: 6 kg. There are two types of game:
1 Feathered: often purchased plucked and dressed
Quality points ready for cooking.
2 Furred: purchased skinned and pre-jointed in most
l Plump breasts. kitchens.
l Webbed feet tear easily.
l Lower back bends easily. Wild animals, because of their diet and general lifestyle,
l Feet and bill should be yellow. have more of certain enzymes in their tissues than poultry,
which break down or metabolise meat proteins; they
Ducks and geese are become active about 24 hours after the animal has been
prepared for roasting in Video: preparing
a duck killed, softening the meat and making it gelatinous and
the same way as chickens. http://bit.ly/ more palatable (as well as giving the characteristic ‘gamey’
The gizzard is not split but 1EoOFMD flavour). They also contain micro-organisms (anaerobes),
trimmed off with a knife. which also help to break down the proteins.
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Choosing and buying feathers (the first large feather of the wing), while in older
birds these feathers are more rounded. There are many
The most important factor when buying game is to know
other distinctive guidelines you can use when selecting
its ‘life age’ and its ‘hanging age’, since this will determine
game, however the grading of game is a specialised subject
the method of cookery to be used. Indications of age are by
and best left to the experts.
no means infallible, but there are some general guidelines
when buying young birds – soft-textured feet, pliable The seasons for game are shown in Table 11.2.
breastbones – and young partridges have pointed flight

Table 11.2 Seasonality of game


JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Furred

Hare

Rabbit

Venison

Feathered

Goose (wild)

Goose (farmed)

Grouse
12th
Mallard

Moorhen
Partridge (English
grey leg)
Partridge (French
red leg)
Pheasant

Pigeon (farmed)
Pigeon (English
wood)
Quail

Snipe
12th
Teal

Woodcock

Key:

Available

At best

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Storing and hanging game to make tough meat more tender; it may also enhance the
taste and it speeds up the action of the metabolic enzyme
Game bought from a game dealer will probably have
that breaks game down.
been hung correctly. If, however, you require your game
(or any other meat that benefits from hanging) to be hung As game birds are deficient in fat, a thin slice of fat bacon
specifically for you, speak to your butcher or game dealer. (bard) should be tied over the breast during cooking to
The general rules are to hang in a cool, dry, airy place, prevent it from drying out; this is also placed on the breast
protected from flies to prevent maggot infestation. You when serving.
should hang the carcass until you detect the first whiff of The preparation techniques for poultry, such as stuffing
tainting. In Britain, birds are usually hung from their heads, ballotines, also apply to game birds.
feet down, and rabbits and other game are hung with their
heads down. Roast game birds are served with gravy; bread sauce
and browned breadcrumbs (toasted or fried) are served
However, there is no real need to hang game, due to the separately.
metabolic enzymes present so, if you object to the strong
flavour that hanging promotes, a short hanging period (or Roast pheasant, partridge or grouse may also be served in
no hanging at all) may be preferable. the traditional manner: on a croûte of fried bread, garnished
with thick round pieces of toasted French bread spread
Current legislation does not allow the hanging or plucking with game farce, game chips and picked watercress.
of game in a normal kitchen environment.
Game should be well wrapped and careful consideration Game birds
given to its age; strict labelling is essential because, when
in prime condition, the meat may have a slightly tainted Pheasant
smell, which may be difficult to discern from the smell that One of the most common game birds, pheasants are found
denotes the meat is past its best. in the hedgerows and open farmland across the country.
Young birds are reared and then released. An average
weight of 1.5 to 2 kg will serve two; they are often served
Drawing and washing roasted although chefs sometimes remove the legs and
This is the process that is carried out when the bird is sold cook separately.
with all its entrails still inside. To remove, make a small lateral
incision into the backside of the bird, then insert your Partridge
forefinger and index finger, and roll them around the inner
Two varieties are used in the UK, with the red-legged being
cavity of the bird. This loosens the membrane that holds in
slightly larger than the grey-legged. They have an average
the innards. When loose, remove from the wider backside
weight of around 500 g per bird and are cooked as for
and discard. Ensure that all the innards are removed, that
pheasant.
the cavity is empty, then wash and dry well.
Check for any shot that could be present and remove before Grouse
completing preparations ready for cooking. Red grouse are found in the hills and mountains feeding
on heather. The grouse season starts on the 12th of August
Cooking game each year, which is considered to be the start of the hunting
season for game. With an average weight of around 750 g
Game meat responds best to roasting. Young game birds
per bird, they are served roasted or pot roasted with
in particular should be trussed and roasted; it is traditional
appropriate garnishes and sauce.
to leave them unstuffed. Due to the low fat content of
game, especially wild non-domestic varieties, added fat in
the form of sliced streaky bacon, lardons and the like can Pigeon
be wrapped around the bird to help baste it while cooking As pigeons do not have gall bladders it is not necessary
and therefore retain moisture. Older, tougher game or to remove their livers when they are drawn and cleaned.
high-worked muscle groups, such as a haunch of venison, Tender young pigeons (less than 12 months old) can be
should be casseroled/stewed or made into pies or terrines. roasted, pot roasted or split open and grilled and served
Marinating in oil, vinegar or wine with herbs and spices helps (for example, with a Robert, charcutière or devilled sauce).

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Young pigeons can be cut in half, flattened slightly, Preparation of wild rabbit
seasoned, shallow-fried in butter, and cooked and finished 1 Carefully remove the fur.
as for sautés of chicken (for example, chasseur, bordelaise). 2 Cut an incision along the belly.
3 Remove the intestines.
Quail 4 Clean out the forequarter, removing all traces of blood.
Only plump birds with firm white fat should be selected.
When prepared the entrails are drawn, but the heart and
liver are retained inside the birds. They may be roasted, spit
Venison
roasted, cooked ‘en casserole’ or poached in a rich, well- Venison is the name given to the meat of deer, with the
flavoured chicken or veal stock (or a combination of both). main types available being red deer, fallow deer and roe
Quails may also be boned out from the back and stuffed deer. Of these three, the meat of the roebuck is considered
with a forcemeat. to have the best and most delicate eating quality. The
prime cuts are the legs, loins and best ends. The shoulder
of young animals can be boned, rolled and roasted but, if in
Hare and rabbits any doubt as to its tenderness, it should be cut up and used
The rabbit is distinguished from the hare by its shorter ears, for stewed or braised dishes.
feet and body. The ears of good-quality hare and rabbits
Venison is available from most catering butchers. The
should tear easily. With old hare, the lip is more pronounced
cuts and joints of venison are shown in the diagram and
than in young animals.
Table 11.3.

K
J
I F E
L D
N H G
B A
M
C

Key E Loin J Chuck rib


A Silverside F Best end K Neck
B Rump G Fillet L Plate
C Thick flank H Mignon M Shin
D Topside I Cutlets N Shoulder

Cuts and joints of venison

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Table 11.3 Cuts and joints of venison


Cut Joints Approx. weight Uses
Haunch Silverside 2 kg Stewing, braising
Topside 2 kg Roasting, braising
Thick flank 1.5 kg Stewing
Rump dice, escalopes 1.5 kg Roasting, braising, frying
Saddle Saddle 8 kg Roasting, braising, frying
Loin 1.4 kg
Noisettes 1 kg
Chops 1 kg
Filet mignon 0.5 kg
Best end Best end cutlets 1.5 kg Frying, roasting, braising
Fillet Fillet 1 kg Escalopes, medallions,
steaks
Shin Shin 0.5 kg Dice, mince, stewing
Neck Neck 2 kg Grilling, dice, mince,
stewing
Shoulder Shoulder 4 kg Roasting/stewing, braising,
Chuck rib 2 kg dice, mince, burgers,
sausages

The nutritional value of venison is compared with other After slaughter, carcasses should be hung well in a cool
meats in Table 11.4. It is a good meat to use when planning place for several days and, when cut into joints, are usually
healthier menus as it contains very little fat. The fat in marinated before being cooked. Joints of venison should
venison is mainly polyunsaturated and therefore lower in be well fleshed and a dark brownish-red colour.
cholesterol.
Venison is also a good source of protein, as 100 g of venison Cooking and serving cutlets
supplies 68.5 per cent of the daily value for protein for only Venison cutlets (cut from the best end) and chops (cut from
179 calories and 1.4 g of saturated fat. It is also a source of the loin) are usually well trimmed and cooked by shallow-
iron, vitamin B12 and other B vitamins. frying, provided that the meat is tender. If in doubt, they
should be braised.
Quality points After they are cooked they should be removed from the
l The flesh should be dark red in colour. pan, the fat poured off and the pan deglazed with stock,
l The flesh should be dry and firm. red wine, brandy, Madeira or sherry, which is then added to
l The carcass should have a good amount of flesh and a the accompanying sauce.
close grain texture.
A spicy, peppery sauce is usually offered, which can be varied
l The flesh should be lean, with little fat.
by the addition of extra ingredients (for example, cream,
l There should be no unpleasant smell.

Table 11.4 Nutritional information: venison and other meats


Fat Protein Iron Cholesterol
Meat g/100 g g/100 g mg/100 g mg/100 g
Venison 1.6 22.2 3.3 29
Chicken 2.1 22.3 0.7 90
Pork 2.2 21.7 0.8 64
Lamb 12.3 19.0 0.25 78
Beef 12.9 20.4 1.3 48

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yoghurt, redcurrant jelly, cooked beetroot, sliced button or


wild mushrooms, cooked pieces of chestnut, and so on).
Wild boar
For good quality, buy animals obtained from suppliers
Accompaniments can include, for example, a purée of a using as near as possible 100 per cent pure breeding stock
root vegetable (e.g. celeriac, turnip, swede, carrot, parsnip, wild boars that are free to roam and forage for food, rather
or any combination of these). than those that have been penned and fed.
Animals aged between 12 and 18 months old, weighing
Cooking and serving steaks 60 to 75 kg on the hoof, are best slaughtered in the late
Venison steaks, or escalopes, are cut from the boned-out summer when their fat content is lower. The meat should
nuts of meat from the loins, trimmed well and thinned be hung for seven to ten days before being used.
slightly with a meat bat.
Young boar up to the age of six months are sufficiently
The escalopes can be quickly shallow-fried and finished tender for cooking in noisettes and cutlets, and joints for
as for cutlets and chops, and served with a variety of roasting. The prime cuts of older animals (e.g. leg, loin, best
accompanying sauces and garnishes. end) can be marinated and braised.

Cooking and serving haunch of Boar’s head is prepared by boning the head and stuffing
it with a forcemeat to which strips of ox tongue, foie gras,
venison truffles and pistachio nuts can be added. The head is tied
The haunch may be roasted or braised. It is popular served securely in a cloth and simmered gently. When cooled it
hot or cold. is completely coated and the tusks are re-inserted. Boar’s
head is a traditional Christmas cold buffet dish served with
a spicy sauce (e.g. Cumberland).

Test yourself
1 List five quality points for a good quality chicken.
2 At what temperature should prepared poultry be chilled for storage?
3 State three considerations when roasting a chicken.
4 What is the safe internal temperature required for cooked poultry?
5 Explain why shallow frying is an appropriate cooking method for turkey
escalopes.
6 Briefly describe how to truss a turkey.
7 State why you would baste a whole duck when roasting.
8 Describe how to store game birds.
9 List three quality points you should look for when buying venison.
10 Describe how you can keep game birds moist during cooking.

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Chicken dishes

1 Grilled chicken (poulet grillé) 

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


975 kJ 234 kcal 15.7 g 4.3 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 23.3 g 0.0 g Healthy eating tips
Based on chicken with bone, wing and leg quarters. l Use a minimum of salt and an unsaturated oil.
l Garnish with grilled tomatoes and mushrooms.
1 Season the chicken with salt and mill pepper, and l Serve with Delmonico potatoes and green
prepare for grilling (see page 299). vegetables.
2 Brush with oil or melted butter or margarine, and
place on preheated greased grill bars or on a
Variation
barbecue or a flat baking tray under a salamander.
Grilled chicken is frequently garnished with streaky
3 Brush frequently with melted fat during cooking;
bacon, tomatoes and mushrooms.
allow approximately 15–20 minutes each side.
The chicken may be marinated for 2–3 hours before
4 Test if cooked by piercing the drumstick with a grilling, in a mixture of oil, lemon juice, spices, herbs,
skewer or trussing needle; there should be no freshly grated ginger, finely chopped garlic, salt and
sign of blood issuing from the leg. pepper. Chicken or turkey portions can also be grilled
and marinated beforehand if wished (breasts or boned-
5 Serve garnished with picked watercress and offer
out lightly battened thighs of chicken).
a suitable sauce separately.

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2 Chicken spatchcock (poulet grillé à la crapaudine)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Chicken, 1.25–1.5 kg 1 2½

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,560 kJ 372 kcal 24.1 g 8.0 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 38.9 g 0.0 g

Healthy eating tips


l Use a minimum amount of salt to season the chicken.
l The fat content can be reduced if the skin is removed
from the chicken.
l Use a small amount of an unsaturated oil to brush the
chicken.
l Serve with a large portion of potatoes and vegetables.

1 Cut horizontally from below the point of the breast 7 Place on preheated grill bars or on a flat tray
over the top of the legs down to the wing joints, under a salamander.
without removing the breasts. Fold back the breasts. 8 Brush frequently with melted fat or oil during
2 Snap and reverse the backbone into the opposite cooking and allow approximately 15–20 minutes
direction so that the point of the breast now on each side.
extends forward. 9 Test if cooked by piercing the drumstick with a
3 Flatten slightly. Remove any small bones. needle or skewer – there should be no sign of
4 Skewer the wings and legs in position. blood.
Serve garnished with picked watercress and offer
5 Season with salt and mill pepper.
a suitable sauce separately (e.g. devilled sauce or a
6 Brush with oil or melted butter.
compound butter).

3 Chicken sauté chasseur 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Butter or oil 50 g 125 g
Salt, pepper
Chicken, 1.25–1.5 kg, cut for sauté 1 2½
Shallots, chopped 10 g 25 g
Button mushrooms, washed and 100 g 250 g
sliced
Dry white wine 3 tbsp 8 tbsp
Jus-lié, demi-glace or reduced 250 ml 625 ml
brown stock
Tomato concassé 200 g 500 g
Parsley and tarragon, chopped

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


2,430 kJ 579 kcal 45.8 g 20.7 g 2.1 g 1.6 g 37.6 g 1.5 g

Using butter.
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1 Place the butter or oil in a sauté pan on a fairly hot 6 Add the washed, sliced mushrooms and cover
stove. with a lid. Cook gently for 3–4 minutes, without
2 Season the pieces of chicken and place in the colour. Drain off the fat.
pan in the following order: drumsticks, thighs, 7 Add the white wine and reduce by half. Add the
wings and breast. jus-lié, demi-glace or reduced stock.
3 Cook to a golden brown on both sides. 8 Add the tomatoes. Simmer for 5 minutes.
4 Cover with a lid and cook on the stove or in the 9 Correct the seasoning and pour over the chicken.
oven until tender. Dress neatly in a suitable dish. 10 Sprinkle with chopped parsley and tarragon and
5 Add the shallots to the sauté pan, rubbing them serve.
into the pan sediment to extract the flavour. Ballotines of chicken chasseur can be prepared as
Cover with a lid and cook on a gentle heat for above or lightly braised (as shown).
1–2 minutes.

Place the chicken into the hot pan Cook the shallots in the pan that was used for the chicken – they will
pick up the sediment and flavour

Professional tip Healthy eating tips


The leg meat takes longer to cook than the breast l Use a minimum amount of salt to season the chicken.
meat, which is why the drumsticks and thighs should be l The fat content can be reduced if the skin is removed
added first. from the chicken.
l Use a little unsaturated oil to cook the chicken, and
Add the soft herbs and tomatoes just before serving. drain off all excess fat from the cooked chicken.
l Serve with a large portion of new potatoes and
seasonal vegetables.

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4 Crumbed breast of chicken with asparagus 


(suprême de volaille aux pointes d’asperges)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 4 Gently fry the suprêmes to a golden brown on


both sides (6–8 minutes). Use a probe to check
Suprêmes of chicken 4 × 125 g 10 × 125 g
that the centre has reached 75 °C.
Egg 1 2
5 Dress the suprêmes on a flat dish and keep warm.
Breadcrumbs (white or wholemeal) 50 g 125 g
6 Mask the suprêmes with the remaining butter
Oil 50 g 125 g
cooked to the nut-brown stage.
Butter or margarine 100 g 250 g
7 Surround the suprêmes with a cordon of jus-lié.
Jus-lié 60 ml 150 ml
8 Garnish each suprême with a neat bundle of
Asparagus 200 g 500 g
asparagus points (previously cooked, refreshed
and reheated with a little butter).
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,831 kJ 439 kcal 26.4 g 8.9 g 15.7 g 1.5 g 35.5 g 1.3 g
Healthy eating tips
1 Pané the chicken suprêmes. Shake off all l Use a minimum amount of salt.
surplus crumbs. l Remove the skin from the suprêmes and fry in a little
unsaturated vegetable oil. Drain on kitchen paper.
2 Neaten and mark on one side with a palette knife. l Try omitting the additional cooked butter.
3 Heat the oil and 50 g (125 g for 10 portions) of the l Serve with plenty of boiled new potatoes and
butter or margarine in a sauté pan. vegetables.

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5 Paella 

1 Prepare the lobster: cut it in half, remove the


claws and legs, discard the sac and trail. Remove
the meat from the claws and cut the tail into 3–4
pieces, leaving the meat in the shell.
2 Clean the squid: pull the body and head apart,
and extract the transparent ‘pen’ from the body.
Rinse well, pulling off the thin purple membrane
on the outside. Remove the ink sac. Cut the body
into rings and the tentacles into 1 cm lengths.
3 Prepare the gambas by shelling the body.
4 Boil the mussels in water or white stock until the
shells open. Shell the mussels and retain the
cooking liquid.
5 Boil the white stock and mussel liquor together,
infused with saffron. Simmer for 5–10 minutes.
6 Sweat the finely chopped onion in a little oil in a
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions suitable pan, without colour. Add the garlic and
the peppers.
Lobster, cooked 400 g 1 kg
7 Sauté the chicken in olive oil until cooked and
Squid 200 g 500 g
golden brown, then drain.
Gambas (Mediterranean prawns), 400 g 1 kg
cooked 8 Add the rice to the onions and garlic and sweat
Mussels 400 g 1 kg for 2 minutes.
White stock 1 litre 2.5 litres 9 Add about 200 ml white stock and mussel liquor.
Pinch of saffron 10 Add the thyme, bay leaf and seasoning. Bring to
Onion, finely chopped 50 g 125 g
the boil then cover with lightly oiled greaseproof
paper and a lid. Cook for 5–8 minutes in a
Clove of garlic, finely chopped 1 2–3
moderate oven (180 °C).
Red pepper, diced 50 g 125 g
11 Add the squid and cook for another 5 minutes.
Green pepper, diced 50 g 125 g
12 Add the tomatoes, chicken and lobster pieces,
Roasting chicken, cut for sauté 1.5 kg 3.75 kg
mussels and gambas. Stir gently, cover with a lid
Olive oil 60 ml 150 ml and reheat the rice in the oven.
Short-grain rice 200 g 500 g 11 Correct the consistency of the rice if necessary
Thyme by adding more stock, so that it looks sufficiently
Bay leaf moist without being too wet. Correct the
Seasoning seasoning.
Tomatoes, skinned, deseeded and 200 g 500 g 12 When all is reheated and cooked, place in a
diced suitable serving dish, decorate with four (ten)
Lemon wedges, to finish gambas and four (ten) mussels halved and
shelled. Finish with wedges of lemon.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
3,383 kJ 804 kcal 31.0 g 6.2 g 48.8 g 3.8 g 85.7 g 1.3 g

Using chicken.

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Note Healthy eating tips


l To reduce the fat, skin the chicken and use a little
A raw lobster may be used for a traditional paella, unsaturated oil to sweat the onions and fry the
which should be prepared as follows. Remove the legs chicken.
and claws, and crack the claws. Cut the lobster in half l No added salt is necessary.
crosswise, between the tail and the carapace. Cut the l Serve with a large green salad.
carapace in two lengthwise. Discard the sac. Cut across
the tail in thick slices through the shell. Remove the trail,
wash the lobster pieces and cook with the rice.

6 Chicken palak (chicken fried with spinach


and spices)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Chicken, 1.5 kg, cut for sauté 1 2
Ghee, butter or oil 50 g 125 g
Onion, finely chopped 50 g 125 g
Clove of garlic, crushed and chopped 1 2–3
Fresh ginger 25 g 60 g
Green chilli 1 2½
Ground cumin 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Ground coriander 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Spinach, washed and finely chopped 250 g 625 g
Tomatoes, skinned, deseeded and 200 g 500 g
diced
Chicken stock 250 ml 625 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre 1 Gently fry the chicken in the fat until golden brown.
1,575 kJ 378 kcal 21.9 g 9.5 g 4.4 g 3.5 g 41.3 g 1.9 g
2 Remove the chicken; fry the onion and garlic until
Estimated edible meat used; butter used.
lightly browned. Add the ginger, chilli and spices,
and sweat for 3 minutes.
Healthy eating tips
l Skin the chicken and fry in a small amount of
3 Stir in the spinach, add the tomatoes and season.
unsaturated oil. Add the chicken pieces.
l Skim excess fat from the finished dish. 4 Add the chicken stock and bring to the boil.
l Serve with plenty of rice, dhal, chapatis and a
vegetable dish. 5 Cover with a lid and cook in a moderate oven
(180 °C) for 30 minutes or until the chicken is tender.
Stir occasionally, adding more stock if necessary.
6 Serve in a suitable dish with rice, chapatis and
dhal.

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7 Deep-fried chicken 

1 Cut the chicken as for sauté. Alternatively, the


chicken may be boned.
2 Coat with flour, egg and crumbs (pané), or pass
them through a light batter (see page 408) to
which herbs can be added.
3 Deep-fry in hot oil (approx. 170–180 °C) until
golden brown and cooked through – about
5 minutes. When the chicken is cooked, a probe
in the thickest part will read 75 °C+, and the juices
will run clear when the chicken is pierced.
For suprêmes, make an incision, stuff with a compound
butter, flour, egg and crumb, and deep-fry as in chicken
Kiev (recipe 8).

Healthy eating tips


The fat content can be reduced if the skin is removed
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre from the chicken.
1,754 kJ 421 kcal 28.6 g 6.1 g 14.5 g 0.4 g 27.2 g 0.5 g

8 Chicken Kiev 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Suprêmes of chicken 4 × 150 g 10 × 150 g
Butter 100 g 250 g
Seasoned flour 25 g 65 g
Eggs 2 5
Breadcrumbs 100 g 250 g

1 Make an incision along the thick sides of the


suprêmes. Insert 25 g cold butter into each.
Season.
2 Pass through seasoned flour, egg wash and
crumbs, ensuring complete coverage. Egg wash
and crumb twice if necessary.
3 Deep-fry until completely cooked. When the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,094 kJ 500 kcal 26.1 g 14.4 g 24.4 g 0.9 g 43.4 g 1.0 g 0.5 g chicken is cooked, a probe in the thickest part will
read 75 °C+, and the juices will run clear when the
chicken is pierced. Drain and serve.

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Carefully make an incision in the top of the Stuff with softened butter Dip the chicken in egg and flour and then
suprême coat with breadcrumbs

Variation Professional tip


Additional ingredients may be added to the butter before The butter must be pushed well into the suprême, and
insertion: the incision must be sealed, or the butter will leak out
l chopped garlic and parsley during cooking.
l fine herbs such as tarragon or chives
l liver paté.

9 Braised chicken leg forestière 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Chicken legs 4 10
Salt and pepper
Olive oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Onions, sliced fairly thickly 2 5
Smoked bacon, thickly sliced 3 8
rashers cut into lardons
Clove of garlic, crushed 1 2
Whole button or small chestnut 100 g 250 g
mushrooms (if larger, cut in half)
Oyster mushrooms, sliced in half 100 g 250 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Plain flour 1½ tbsp 4 tbsp
1,878 kJ 448 kcal 15.9 g 3.9 g 16.9 g 8.7 g 49.9 g 3.6 g 1.0 g
Tomato purée 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Red wine 250 ml 625 ml
Note
Brown chicken stock 400 ml 1 litre
These quantities will produce a moderate portion to Tomatoes, blanched, peeled, 3 7½
be served as part of a three-course meal. Allow two concassé
chicken legs per person for a hearty portion. Fresh tarragon and parsley, chopped 15 g 35 g

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1 Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Heat the 5 Stir in the tomato purée and then gradually add the
olive oil in a lidded sauté pan or shallow casserole red wine and chicken stock, stirring until the liquid
and pan-fry the chicken over a medium-high heat, has fully mixed into the flour and purée paste.
turning, until golden on both sides. 6 Return the chicken to the pan and bring to a
2 Remove from the pan and keep to one side. You simmer. Place a lid on the pan and continue to
will need about 2 tablespoons of fat left in the pan cook, allowing the sauce to just simmer for about
to cook the onions so, if the legs have released a 1 hour, or until the meat is completely tender.
lot of fat, drain off the excess. 7 To finish, remove the chicken legs, place on to
3 Add the onions and fry for 2–3 minutes before a plate or tray and keep in a warm place, e.g.
adding the bacon, garlic and mushrooms to the the side of the stove. Skim the sauce of any
pan. Continue to stir until they have a little colour further excess fat and adjust the consistency as
and the mushrooms are beginning to soften. necessary.
4 Sprinkle over the flour and stir until the flour has 8 Adjust the seasoning before adding the tomatoes.
lightly browned. 9 Place the chicken legs back into the sauce and
scatter over the chopped herbs before serving.

10 Steamed ballotine of chicken with herb stuffing 


and red wine jus

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Chicken legs 4 10
Forcemeat
Minced chicken 120 g 300 g
Parsley 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Tarragon 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Chives 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Chervil 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Salt and pepper
Red wine jus
Shallots, sliced 75 g 190 g
Butter 25 g 60 g
Garlic, finely chopped 5g 10 g
Red wine 175 ml 440 ml
Variation Chicken stock 175 ml 440 ml
Instead of the traditional chicken legs, ballotines can be Veal or beef jus 125 ml 310 ml
made using:
Bay leaves 1 2½
l chicken suprêmes, batted out, stuffed and rolled
l chicken breasts: make an incision in the thicker part Thyme, sprigs ½ 1
and fill this with forcemeat.
These ballotines are cooked in the same way. Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,626 kJ 390 kcal 24.9 g 8.5 g 1.8 g 0.9 g 33.4 g 0.5 g 1.1 g

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1 Remove the thighbone and the knuckle joint from 7 Heat a sauté pan with oil and butter, add the
the chicken legs. chicken legs and brown the skin. Slice and serve
2 Prepare the forcemeat by mixing all of the herbs with the sauce.
with the minced chicken. Season the mix and For the red wine jus:
divide it evenly between the chicken legs. 1 Caramelise the shallots in the butter until golden,
3 Season the legs then stuff them with the adding the garlic at the end.
forcemeat. Roll the leg into a neat cylinder and 2 Strain off any excess butter, deglaze the pan with
either tie the leg in place or roll tightly in cling film the red wine and reduce by half.
and tie off the ends. 3 Add the chicken stock and veal jus and reduce to
4 Steam the legs for 30–45 minutes or until the core a sauce consistency, adding the aromats for the
temperature reaches 84 °C. last 5 minutes.
5 Allow the chicken legs to rest so they will stay 4 Pass through a muslin cloth and serve over the
in shape. sliced ballotines.
6 When the chicken legs have rested and cooled
slightly, remove the string or cling film and dry them.

11 Fricassée of chicken

1 Cut the chicken as for sauté (page 298); season


with salt and pepper.
2 Place the butter in a sauté pan. Heat gently.
3 Add the pieces of chicken. Cover with a lid.
4 Cook gently on both sides without colouring. Mix
in the flour.
5 Cook out carefully without colouring. Gradually
mix in the stock.
6 Bring to the boil and skim. Allow to simmer gently
until cooked.
7 Mix the yolks and cream in a basin (liaison).
8 Pick out the chicken into a clean pan.
9 Pour a little boiling sauce on to the yolks and
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
cream and mix well.
Chicken, 1.25–1.5 kg 1 2–3
10 Pour all back into the sauce, combine thoroughly
Salt, pepper
but do not reboil.
Butter, margarine or oil 50 g 125 g
11 Correct the seasoning and pass through a fine
Flour 35 g 90 g
strainer.
Chicken stock 0.5 litre 1.25 litres
12 Pour over the chicken, reheat without boiling.
Egg yolks 2 5
13 Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley and garnish
Cream or non-dairy cream 4 tbsp 10 tbsp with heart-shaped croutons, fried in butter, if
Parsley, chopped desired.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Professional tip
2,699 kJ 643 kcal 51.3 g 23.3 g 7.4 g 0.6 g 38.2 g 0.4 g
Sauté the chicken lightly. Add the liaison of yolks and
Using butter. cream carefully. Do not allow the sauce to come back
to the boil once the liaison has been added, or it will
curdle.

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Variation Healthy eating tips


l Keep added salt to a minimum throughout the
Fricassée de volaille à l’ancienne: a fricassée of chicken
cooking.
with button onions and mushrooms can be made in a
l Use a little unsaturated oil to cook the chicken, and
similar way, with the addition of 50–100 g button onions
drain off all excess fat after cooking.
and 50–100g button mushrooms. They are peeled
l Try oven-baking the croutons brushed with olive oil.
and the mushrooms left whole, turned or quartered
l The sauce is high in fat, so serve with plenty of
depending on size and quality. The onions are added
starchy carbohydrate and vegetables.
to the chicken as soon as it comes to the boil and the
mushrooms 15 minutes later. Heart-shaped croutons
may be used to garnish. This is a classic dish.

12 Chicken à la king

1 Wash, peel and slice the mushrooms.


2 Cook them without colour in the butter or oil.
3 If using raw pepper, discard the seeds, cut the
pepper into dice and cook with the mushrooms.
4 Cut the chicken into small, neat slices.
5 Add the chicken to the mushrooms and pepper.
6 Drain off the fat. Add the sherry.
7 Add the velouté and bring to the boil.
8 Finish with the cream and correct the seasoning.
9 Place in a serving dish and decorate with small
strips of cooked pepper.
Use a velouté with a good chicken flavour, to create
the best sauce.

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Variation


Button mushrooms 100 g 250 g Try adding 1 or 2 egg yolks to form a liaison with the
Butter or oil 25 g 60 g cream, mixed into the boiling mixture at the last possible
moment and immediately removed from the heat.
Red pepper, skinned 50 g 125 g
Chicken, boiled or steamed 400 g 1.25 kg
Chicken à la king may be served in a border of golden-
brown duchess potato, or a pilaff of rice (see page 125)
Sherry 30 ml 75 ml may be offered as an accompaniment. It is suitable for a
Chicken velouté 125 ml 150 ml hot buffet dish.
Cream or non-dairy cream 30 ml 75 ml
Healthy eating tips
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l Use the minimum amount of salt.
1,226 kJ 292 kcal 16.7 g 7.8 g 3.2 g 0.8 g 30.4 g 0.9 g
l Remove the skin from the cooked chicken.
Using butter or hard margarine. l Try reducing or omitting the cream used to finish the
sauce.
l Serve with plenty of rice and vegetables or salad.

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Slice the mushrooms and dice the red pepper Neatly slice the cooked chicken Add the velouté during cooking

13 Poached suprême of chicken with Madeira 


and mushroom café cream sauce

1 Sauté the shallots and mushrooms in butter until


golden brown.
2 Divide the mushroom and shallots into equal piles
in a shallow pan – place each of the trimmed
chicken suprêmes on to one pile.
3 Add the Madeira and bring to the boil.
4 Add the reduced chicken stock, bring back to the
boil and cover with buttered greaseproof paper.
5 Place the chicken in a preheated oven at 170 °C
and cook for 12 minutes, or until the core
temperature reaches 75 °C. (In the suprême with
the wing bone, ensure that the meat near the
bone reaches 82 °C.)
6 When cooked, remove the chicken from the pan
and set aside.
7 Leave the mushrooms in the pan for the sauce.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Reduce the cooking liquor until it begins to
Shallots, finely chopped 40 g 100 g thicken naturally.
Button mushrooms, sliced 160 g 400 g 8 Add the cream and reduce to a sauce consistency.
Butter 40 g 100 g 9 Season and serve with the chicken suprêmes.
Chicken suprêmes 4 10
Madeira wine 2 tbsp 5 tbsp Note
Brown chicken stock 250 ml 625 ml The café cream sauce of Madeira wine, chicken stock
Double cream 200 ml 500 ml and double cream is also known as café au lait.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


2,126 kJ 512 kcal 37.3 g 22.4 g 2.5 g 2.2 g 38.2 g 0.8 g

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14 Confit chicken leg with leeks and artichokes

1 Gently heat the confit oil, add the garlic, bay


and thyme.
2 Put the chicken legs in the oil and place on
a medium to low heat, ensuring the legs are
covered.
3 Cook gently for 3–3½ hours.
4 To test if the legs are cooked, squeeze the flesh
on the thigh bone and it should just fall away.
5 When cooked, remove the legs carefully and
place on a draining tray.
6 Heat the vegetable oil in a medium sauté pan,
add the artichokes and leeks, colour slightly and
then add the brown chicken stock.
7 Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for
4–5 minutes; meanwhile place the confit leg on
a baking tray and place in a preheated oven at
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
210 °C; remove when the skin is golden brown
Confit oil 1 litre 2.5 litres
(approximately 5 minutes), taking care as the
Cloves of garlic 4 10 meat is delicate.
Bay leaf 1 3 8 Place the chicken in a serving dish or on a plate,
Sprig of thyme check the leeks and artichokes are cooked
Chicken legs, 200 g 4 10 through, and bring the stock to a rapid boil,
Vegetable oil 50 ml 125 ml working in the butter to form an emulsion.
Globe artichokes, prepared, cooked 4 10 9 Add the chopped chives to the sauce and nap
and cut into quarters over the chicken legs.
Whole leeks, blanched 2 5
Brown chicken stock 250 ml 625 ml
Note

Butter 50 g 125 g Confit oil is half olive oil and half vegetable oil, infused
with herbs, garlic, whole spices or any specific flavour
Chives, chopped 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
you wish to impart into the oil. The foodstuff picks up the
Seasoning flavour through slow cooking in the oil.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3,622 kJ 875 kcal 75.9 g 3.6 g 43.3 g 3.6 g 43.3 g 2.6 g 0.8 g Professional tip
This dish utilises the less popular chicken legs; it is not
only very cost-effective but has great depth of flavour
due to the work the muscle group has done.

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After cooking in oil, squeeze the thigh to Remove from the oven when the chicken is Add butter to the stock to form an emulsion
determine whether it is done golden brown

15 Chicken in red wine (coq au vin)

1 Cut the chicken as for sauté (see page 298).


Blanch the lardons.
2 If the chipolatas are large, divide into two.
3 Wash and cut the mushrooms into quarters.
4 Sauté the lardons, mushrooms and chipolatas in
a mixture of butter and oil. Remove when cooked.
5 Lightly season the pieces of chicken and place
in the pan in the correct order (see recipe 1) with
button onions. Sauté until almost cooked.
6 Place in a casserole with the mushrooms and
lardons.
7 Drain off the fat from the sauté pan. Deglaze with
the red wine and stock; bring to the boil.
8 Transfer the liquid to the casserole (just covering
the chicken); cover with a lid and finish cooking.
9 Remove the chicken and onions, place into a
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
clean pan.
Roasting chicken, 1.5 kg 1 2–3
10 Lightly thicken the liquor with a beurre manié of
Lardons 50 g 125 g butter and flour by whisking small pieces of it into
Small chipolatas 4 10 the simmering liquid.
Button mushrooms 50 g 125 g 11 Pass the sauce over the chicken and onions, add
Butter 50 g 125 g the mushrooms, chipolatas and lardons. Correct
Sunflower oil 3 tbsp 7 tbsp the seasoning and reheat.
Small button onions 12 30 12 Add the beurre manié slowly, mixing well, to
create a thick, smooth sauce.
Red wine 500 ml 900 ml
Beurre manié Healthy eating tips
Butter 25 g 60 g l Use a well-seasoned pan to dry-fry the lardons and
chipolatas, then add the mushrooms.
Flour 10 g 25 g
l Use the minimum amount of added salt.
l Drain all the fat from the cooked chicken.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l Garnish with oven-baked croutons and serve with
4,794 kJ 1,141 kcal 95.7 g 32.9 g 16.6 g 2.3 g 49.0 g 1.7 g
plenty of starchy carbohydrate and vegetables.
Using sunflower oil and hard margarine.
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Sauté the other ingredients before the chicken Sauté the chicken pieces and onion in the Add a beurre manié
same pan

16 Chicken pie 

1 Cut the chicken as for sauté (see page 298) or


bone out completely and cut into 4 × 1 cm pieces.
2 Season lightly with salt and pepper.
3 Wrap each piece in very thin streaky bacon. Place
in a pie dish.
4 Add the mushrooms and remainder of the
ingredients, except the pastry.
5 Add sufficient cold stock to barely cover the
chicken.
6 Cover with puff pastry and allow to rest in a
refrigerator.
7 Egg wash and bake at 200 °C for approximately
30 minutes, until the pastry has set and the juice
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions is simmering.
Chicken, 1.25–1.5 kg 1 2–3 8 Reduce the heat to 160–180 °C and continue
Salt, pepper cooking for 1 hour.
Streaky bacon 100 g 250 g
Button mushrooms, washed and 100 g 250 g
Note
sliced
If the pie is to be served cold, a soaked leaf of gelatine
Onion, chopped 1 2½ can be laid on the chicken before covering with pastry.
Chicken stock 250 ml 625 ml
Chopped parsley, pinch Healthy eating tips
Hard-boiled egg, chopped 1 2½ l Add little or no salt – the bacon is salty.
l Remove the skin from the chicken.
Cold chicken stock
l Serve with plenty of starchy carbohydrates and a
Puff pastry (page 465) 200 g 500 g large mixed salad.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


3,357 kJ 799 kcal 62.6 g 25.1 g 16.4 g 1.9 g 43.3 g 1.8 g

Using hard margarine in the pastry.

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Wrap the chicken pieces in bacon Pour stock over the pie filling Egg wash the edge of the pie dish and lay the
pastry over

Press down gently at the edges to form a seal Trim off the excess and then crimp the edges
with your fingers

17 Tandoori chicken 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Chicken, cut as for sauté (page 298) 1.25–1.5 kg 3–4 kg
Salt 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Lemon, juice of 1 2½
Natural yoghurt 300 ml 850 ml
Small onion, chopped 1 2½
Clove of garlic, peeled 1 2½
Ginger, piece of, peeled and 5 cm 12 cm
quartered
Fresh hot green chilli, sliced ½ 1
Garam masala 2 tsp 5 tsp
Ground cumin 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Red and yellow colouring, few drops
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
each
1,436 kJ 342 kcal 14.1 g 4.6 g 10.1 g 8.6 g 44.6 g 0.3 g

Estimated edible meat used; vegetable oil used.

Healthy eating tips


Professional tip l Skin the chicken and reduce the salt by half.
If cooking in a tandoor oven, make sure the chicken is l Serve with rice and vegetables.
secure on the skewer, so that it cannot slip off during
cooking.

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1 Cut slits bone-deep in the chicken pieces. 5 Preheat the oven to the maximum temperature.
2 Sprinkle the salt and lemon juice on both sides of 6 Shake off as much of the marinade as possible
the pieces, lightly rubbing into the slits; leave for from the chicken pieces; place on skewers and
20 minutes. bake for 15–20 minutes or until cooked.
3 Combine the remaining ingredients in a blender or Serve with red onion rings and lime or lemon wedges.
food processor.
4 Brush the chicken pieces on both sides, ensuring
the marinade goes into the slits. Cover and
refrigerate for 6–24 hours.

18 Roast chicken with dressing (poulet rôti à l’anglaise)

1 Lightly season the chicken inside and out with salt.


2 Place on its side in a roasting tin.
3 Cover with 50 g of the oil or butter.
4 Place in a hot oven for approximately 20–
25 minutes, then turn on to the other side.
5 Cook for a further 20–25 minutes. Baste frequently.
6 To test whether the chicken is fully cooked, pierce
it with a fork between the drumstick and thigh,
and hold it over a plate. The juice issuing from
the chicken should not show any sign of blood.
If using a temperature probe, insert in the thickest
part of the leg; it should read 75 °C. Place the
cooked chicken breast-side down to retain all the
cooking juices.
Ingredient 4 portions
(per chicken) 7 To make the dressing, gently cook the onion in
the remaining oil or butter without colour.
Chicken, 1.25–1.5 kg 1
8 Season and add the herbs and breadcrumbs.
Salt and pepper
Oil or butter 100 g
9 Mix in the liver if using.
Onion, chopped 25 g 10 Correct the seasoning and bake or steam the
dressing separately, for approximately 20 minutes,
Chopped parsley, pinch
until thoroughly cooked and reaching 75 °C.
Powdered thyme, pinch
Breadcrumbs (white or wholemeal) 50 g Professional tip
Liver from the chicken, raw, chopped (optional) Arranging the chicken so that it cooks sitting on one
leg, then the other, and then the breast, ensures that the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
whole bird cooks evenly.
1,363 kJ 327 kcal 20.4 g 3.7 g 6.7 g 0.7 g 29.5 g 0.3 g

Based on average edible portion of roasted meat (100 g).


Healthy eating tips
l Use unsaturated oil to cook the onion.
l Keep the added salt to a minimum.
l Serve with plenty of potatoes and vegetables.

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Turkey dishes

19 Turkey escalopes 

1 Cut 100 g slices from boned-out turkey breast


and lightly flour. Gently cook on both sides in
butter or oil with a minimum of colour; alternatively
flour, egg and crumb the slices and shallow fry.
2 Serve with a suitable sauce and/or garnish (e.g.
pan-fried turkey escalope cooked with oyster
mushrooms and finished with white wine and
cream).

Professional tip
The oil or fat must be hot enough before the escalopes
are placed in the pan. If it is too cool, the breadcrumbs
will absorb the fat and the dish will be greasy.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,712 kJ 414 kcal 37.0 g 14.0 g 5.9 g 0.2 g 14.8 g 0.3 g 0.1 g

20 Roast turkey 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Turkey, with legs on 1 small bird 4–5 kg
Sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper
Unsalted butter, melted 250 g 625 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,076 kJ 257 kcal 9.6 g 3.2 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 42.0 g 0.0 g

Professional tip
The secret to keeping turkey moist is to baste as much
as you can and, when the turkey is cooked, place it
on its breast, breast-side down, allowing all the cavity
juices to penetrate the meat.

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1 Adjust an oven rack to its lowest position and 4 Roast the turkey for 2 hours. Remove the foil and
remove the other racks in the oven. Preheat baste with the remaining butter. Increase the oven
to 165 °C. temperature to 220 °C and continue to roast until
2 Remove turkey parts from neck and breast an instant-read thermometer registers 74 °C in the
cavities and reserve for other uses, if desired. thigh of the bird, about 45 minutes more.
Dry bird well with paper towels, inside and out. 5 Remove turkey from the oven and set aside
Salt and pepper inside the breast cavity. to rest for 15 minutes before carving. Carve
3 Set the bird on a roasting rack in a roasting pan, and serve with roast gravy, cranberry sauce,
breast-side up, brush generously with half the bread sauce, and either or both sausage meat
butter and season with salt and pepper. Tent the and chestnut dressing and parsley and thyme
bird with foil. dressing. Chipolata sausages and rolled rashers
of grilled bacon may also be served.

Duck dishes

21 Duck breast steaks with cherries 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Season and shallow-fry the duck breasts in olive
oil, skin side down, and finish in the oven at
Duck breasts, skinned and scored 4 10
200 °C if required.
Olive oil for frying
2 Meanwhile, place the cherries, vinegar and jelly
Cherries 300 g 750 g
in a pan and heat gently until the jelly has melted.
Raspberry vinegar 4 tbsp 10 tbsp Simmer and remove from the heat.
Bramble jelly or redcurrant jelly 4 tbsp 10 tbsp 3 Stir in the extra virgin olive oil.
Extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp 4 Carve the breasts into slices and serve on
top of the sauce with the cherries and an
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,432 kJ 341 kcal 15.3 g 3.8 g 21.5 g 21.5 g 30.3 g 0.9 g 0.2 g
accompaniment of vegetables.

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22 Confit duck leg with red cabbage and 


green beans

1 Gently heat the confit oil, add the garlic, bay leaf
and thyme.
2 Put the duck legs in the oil and place on a medium
to low heat, ensuring the legs are covered.
3 Cook gently for 4–4½ hours (if using goose, 5–6½
hours may be needed).
4 To test if the legs are cooked, squeeze the flesh
on the thigh bone and it should just fall away.
5 When cooked, remove the legs carefully and
place on a draining tray.
6 When drained, put the confit leg on a baking tray
and place in a preheated oven at 210 °C; remove
when the skin is golden brown (approximately
9–10 minutes), taking care as the meat is delicate.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
7 Heat the butter in a medium sauté pan and reheat
Confit oil 1 litre 2.5 litres the green beans.
Cloves of garlic 4 10 8 Place the braised cabbage in a small pan and
Bay leaf 1 3 reheat slowly.
Sprig of thyme 1 2 9 Place the duck leg in a serving dish or plate along
Duck legs 4 × 200 g 10 × 200 g with the red cabbage and green beans.
Butter 50 g 125 g
Professional tip
Green beans, cooked and trimmed 300 g 750 g
Confit oil is 50/50 olive oil and vegetable oil infused with
Braised red cabbage 250 g 625 g
herbs, garlic, whole spice or any specific flavour you
Seasoning wish to impart into the oil; then, through slow cooking in
the oil, the foodstuff picks up the flavour.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Confit duck legs can be prepared up to three or four
3859 kJ 932 kcal 83.0 g 28.0 g 7.7 g 6.4 g 39.2 g 4.2 g 0.3 g
days in advance. Remove them carefully from the fat
they are stored in, clean off any excess fat and place
directly into the oven. This is a great timesaver in a
busy service.

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23 Roast duck or duckling (canard ou caneton rôti) 

1 Lightly season the duck inside and out with salt.


2 Truss and brush lightly with oil.
3 Place on its side in a roasting tin, with a few drops
of water.
4 Place in a hot oven for 20–25 minutes.
5 Turn on to the other side.
6 Cook for a further 20–25 minutes. Baste
frequently.
7 To test if cooked, pierce with a fork between the
drumstick and thigh and hold over a plate. The
juice issuing from the duck should not show any
signs of blood. If using a probe, the temperature
should be 62 °C. If the duck is required pink, the
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions temperature should be 57 °C.
Duck 1 2–3 8 Prepare the roast gravy with the stock and
Salt
the sediment in the roasting tray. Correct the
seasoning, remove the surface fat.
Oil
9 Serve garnished with picked watercress.
Brown stock 0.25 litres 600 ml
Accompany with a sauceboat of hot apple sauce,
Salt, pepper a sauceboat of gravy, and game chips. Also
Watercress, bunch 1 2 serve a sauceboat of sage and onion dressing
Apple sauce (page 98) 125 ml 300 ml (recipe 24).

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Healthy eating tips
3,083 kJ 734 kcal 60.5 g 16.9 g 8.2 g 7.8 g 40.0 g 1.4 g l Use the minimum amount of salt to season the duck
With apple sauce and watercress. and the roast gravy.
l Take care to remove all the fat from the roasting tray
before making the gravy.
Note l This dish is high in fat and should be served with
Arrange the duck to cook sitting on one leg, then the plenty of boiled new potatoes and a variety of
other leg and then the breast, so the whole bird cooks vegetables.
evenly.
The temperatures in this recipe reflect industry
standards for cooking duck. For food safety reasons, it
is advisable to cook duck to higher temperatures.

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24 Sage and onion dressing for duck

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Onion, chopped 100 g 250 g
Duck fat or butter 100 g 250 g
Powdered sage ¼ tsp ½ tsp
Parsley, chopped ¼ tsp ½ tsp
Salt, pepper
White or wholemeal breadcrumbs 100 g 250 g
Duck liver (optional), chopped 50 g 125 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1346 kJ 320 kcal 26.0 g 8.4 g 22.0 g 2.7 g 2.9 g 1.0 g 0.2 g

Using duck fat and omitting liver.

1 Gently cook the onion in the fat without colour. 3 Place in a tray and finish in a hot oven at 180 °C
Add the chopped liver (if required) and fry until for approximately 5–10 minutes. Check with a
cooked. probe that the centre has reached 75 °C.
2 Add the herbs and seasoning. Mix in the crumbs. Serve separately with roast duck.
Form into thick sausage shapes, in foil.

25 Cranberry and orange dressing for duck

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Cranberries 400 g 1 kg
Granulated sugar 50 g 125 g
Red wine 125 ml 310 ml
Red wine vinegar 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Orange zest and juice 2 5

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


398 kJ 93 kcal 0.2 g 0.0 g 22.7 g 22.7 g 1.3 g 4.2 g

1 Place the cranberries in a suitable saucepan with


Note
the rest of the ingredients.
2 Bring to the boil and simmer gently for The dressing may be liquidised if a smooth texture is
required.
approximately 1 hour, stirring from time to time.
3 Remove from the heat and leave to cool. Use as
required.

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Goose dish

26 Roast goose 

The average weight of a goose is 5–6 kg.


1 Clean and truss the goose as for a chicken (see
page 297).
2 Roast the goose using the same procedure for
roasting a duck (recipe 23), with the oven at
200–230 °C. Turn it down to 180 °C after
20 minutes. Allow 15–20 minutes per 0.5 kg.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
9,541 kJ 2,305 kcal 210.5 g 60.0 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 103.1 g 0.0 g

Guinea fowl dish

27 Suprêmes of guinea fowl with a pepper and 


basil coulis

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Red peppers 3 7½
Olive oil 150 ml 375 ml
Fresh basil, chopped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Salt, pepper
Guinea fowl suprêmes 4 10
(approximately 150 g each)

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


904 kJ 216 kcal 4.7 g 1.3 g 7.8 g 7.3 g 35.8 g 0.5 g

Using chicken instead of guinea fowl.

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1 Skin the peppers by brushing with oil and 3 Add the chopped basil and season.
gently scorching in the oven or under the grill. 4 Season the guinea fowl and either shallow-fry or grill.
Alternatively, use a blowtorch with great care.
5 Pour the coulis on to individual plates. Place the
Once scorched, peel the skin from the peppers,
guinea fowl on top and serve immediately.
cut in half and deseed.
2 Place the skinned and deseeded peppers in a
food processor, blend with the olive oil and pass
through a strainer.

Cold dish

28 Terrine of chicken with vegetables

Ingredient 8–10 portions


Carrots, turnips and swedes, peeled and cut into 7 mm 50 g of each
dice
Broccoli, small florets 50 g
Baby corn, cut into 7 mm rounds 50 g
French beans, cut into 7 mm lengths 50 g
Chicken (white meat only), minced 400 g
Egg whites 2
Double cream 200 ml
Salt, mill pepper

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


930 kJ 226 kcal 17.3 g 9.4 g 2.0 g 1.8 g 15.5 g 0.9 g

1 Blanch all the vegetables individually in boiling 6 Cover with foil, put the lid on and cook in a bain-
salted water, ensuring that they remain firm. marie in a moderate oven for about 45 minutes.
Refresh in cold water, and drain well. Use a temperature probe to check that the centre
2 Blend the chicken and egg whites in a food has reached 70 °C.
processor until smooth. Turn out into a large mixing 7 When cooked, remove the lid and leave to cool
bowl and gradually beat in the double cream. overnight.
3 Season with salt and mill pepper, and fold in the
vegetables. Healthy eating tips
l Keep the added salt to a minimum.
4 Line a lightly greased 1-litre terrine with cling film. l Serve with plenty of salad vegetables and bread or
5 Spoon the farce into the mould and overlap the toast (optional butter or spread).
cling film.

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Cut the vegetables into neat dice, rounds and Line the terrine with cling film and spoon in Cover the mixture with cling film and press
florets the mixture down gently

Game dishes

29 Pot au feu of pigeon

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Squabs, legs removed 6 (approx. 2 kg) 10 (approx.
3.5 kg)
Carrot, peeled and cut into 4 laterally 1 3
Celery stick, cut into 4 1 3
Baby turnips 8 20
Medium turnips, peeled and blanched 2 4
Leek, washed, cut in rounds 1 3
Small shallots, peeled and left whole 8 20
Smoked streaky bacon, rind 100g 250g
removed
Chicken/game stock 400 ml 1 litre
Bouquet garni with 4 black 1 3
peppercorns and 1 clove of garlic
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,545 kJ 367 kcal 11.2 g 3.4 g 11.1 g 10.0 g 56.2 g 4.8 g
Salt

1 Place the squab legs in a large casserole and 3 Skim off any impurities, cover with a lid (leaving a
arrange the vegetables tightly in one layer with the small gap) and simmer gently for 50 minutes.
legs, add the bacon then cover with the stock to 4 Skim off any fat or impurities, then add the squab
about 4 cm above the ingredients (you may need breasts and cook for a further 12 minutes.
to top this up with water).
2 Add the muslin-wrapped bouquet garni. Season Note
with salt and bring to a gentle boil. This is a social dish, designed to be placed in the
middle of the table and served with warm, crusty bread,
mashed potato or buttered new potatoes.

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Arrange the squab legs and vegetables in Cover with stock Add the breasts later, as they need less time
the pan to cook

30 Roast partridge 

1 Shorten the wings and sear the partridges under


a flame to remove the feather stubs. Remove any
trace of gall from the liver. Wash briefly, pat dry
and reserve.
2 In a roasting tray sear the wing bones and the
partridges in the butter and oil for 2 minutes on
each side and 2 minutes on the breast (6 minutes
in total) until they are brown.
3 Season with salt and pepper, and roast in the
preheated oven for 5–10 minutes, according to
the size of the partridges.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
4 Remove from the oven and place the partridges
Grey-legged partridges (approx. 4 10
400g each), oven-ready, with livers on a cooling wire, breast-side down. Cover
Unsalted butter 20 g 50 g loosely with aluminium foil and allow to rest.
Groundnut oil or vegetable oil 20 g 50 g 5 In the same roasting tray, fry the livers in the
remaining butter and oil until well done, and
Salt and freshly ground pepper
reserve. Spoon out the excess fat and add the
Roasting juices from veal, pork or beef 70 ml 175 ml
roasting juices and water to the winglets, bring to
Water 50 ml 125 ml the boil then simmer for 5 minutes.
6 Taste and season with salt and pepper, then
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
2,495 kJ 596 kcal 26.7 g 7.6 g 0.3 g 0.1 g 88.5 g 0.0 g
strain through a fine sieve.
7 Serve with roasted seasonal vegetables (e.g.
Note roast parsnips, carrots and braised cabbage).
Suggested accompaniments include bread
Simply roasted partridge is a great autumnal or winter sauce, roast gravy, watercress and game chips.
base for most accompaniments: braised cabbage, roast The fried livers may be puréed and served on
carrots, parsnips and so on.
croûtes of toasted bread as an accompaniment.

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31 Traditional-contemporary roast grouse 

1 Trim the wings from the young grouse, draw and


reserve the livers, hearts and giblets. Season
birds liberally inside and out, and put the livers
and hearts back in with a sage leaf and a knob of
butter. Preheat the oven to 210 °C.
2 Brown the wings and the remaining giblets in the
oil with the onion, celery and carrot. Deglaze pan
with red wine, cover with water and simmer for
30 minutes with the thyme and bay leaf. Strain
and reserve.
3 Meanwhile, fry the bread in duck fat. Make the
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions bread sauce and pick through the watercress.
Grouse 4 Seal the birds in a little hot oil until golden, then
Young grouse (approx. 750 g each) 4 10 place them at the top of the oven and roast. Cook
Sage leaves 4 10 until a probe inserted between the leg and the
Butter 20 g 50 g cavity reads 75 °C, or until the juices run clear.
Salt and pepper 5 Remove from the pan and leave the birds to rest
Stock for 10 minutes.
Oil 30 ml 75 ml 6 Put the roasting tray over a flame, add a splash of
Reserved grouse wings and giblets
brandy and the stock, and allow to bubble down
to a thin gravy.
Large onion, diced 1 2½
7 A traditional way to serve grouse is to scoop out
Celery stick, diced 1 2½
the livers and hearts, mash these up and serve on
Carrot, diced 1 2½ the toast. Place a bunch of the watercress into the
Red wine 250 ml 625 ml grouse’s cavity and put the bird and toast on to
Water a plate with some bread sauce and game chips.
Thyme, sprig of Pour a little of the gravy over each bird and serve
Bay leaf 1 2½
the remaining gravy separately. Alternatively, serve
with apple sauce.
Brandy
Toast
Bread sauce
Small slices of bread 16 40
Duck fat Milk 600 ml
To serve Onion, studded with cloves and bay leaf 1
Bread sauce Peppercorns 6
Watercress, bunches 1 2 Fresh white breadcrumbs 100 g
Game chips Butter 50 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1 Heat the milk to boiling point. Infuse the onion
3,932 kJ 943 kcal 24.7 g 7.1 g 63.8 g 9.5 g 107.4 g 5.6 g
and peppercorns in the milk for 30 minutes, then
Nutritional analysis includes accompaniments.
remove.
Note 2 Strain the milk and stir in the breadcrumbs.

Good-quality grouse that has not been over-hung is


3 Heat gently for 10 minutes until thick.
essential. The meat will already have a strong, pungent 4 Stir in the butter and season.
flavour from the birds’ diet of heather.
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32 Pot-roasted quail with roast carrots and mashed potato

3 Put the oil in a large, thick-bottomed roasting pan


on a high heat. When the fat is hot, add all of the
quails in a single layer and cook until browned on
one side, gradually turning them, and continue
cooking until they are evenly browned all over.
4 Lightly sprinkle the quails with salt and pepper,
then add the carrots and cook for a couple of
minutes until a slight colour appears.
5 Add the wine and brown stock then turn the birds
once; let the wine bubble for about 1 minute then
lower the heat to moderate and partially cover
the pan. Cook the quail until the meat feels very
tender when poked with a fork and comes away
from the bone (approximately 35 minutes).
6 Check from time to time that there are sufficient
juices in the pan to keep the birds from sticking;
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions if this does occur, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of water
Quails (approx. 75 g each) 8 20 at a time. When the quails are done, transfer them
to a warmed tray and reserve.
Pancetta, thinly sliced 8 slices (approx. 20 slices
160 g) (approx. 420 g) 7 Turn up the heat and reduce the cooking juices
Fresh sage leaves 8 20 to a glaze – enough to coat all the birds, scraping
Vegetable oil 15 ml 40 ml the bottom of the pan with a spoon to loosen any
cooking residues.
Butter 20 g 50 g
Salt and freshly ground pepper
8 Add the unsalted butter and whisk in to form an
emulsion; at this point, if the sauce splits or is too
Carrots, peeled and cut into quarters 100 g 250 g
thick, add a little water and reboil.
Oil 30 ml 75 ml
9 Remove the carrots from the pan and place neatly
Dry white wine 125 ml 310 ml on the plate with the mashed potato.
Red wine 125 ml 310 ml
10 Pass the juices then pour them over the quail,
Brown stock 250 ml 625 ml sprinkle with chopped chives and serve immediately.
Unsalted butter 50 g 125 g
Portions of mashed potato 4 (200 g) 10 (500 g)
Chives, chopped 1 tsp 2 ½tsp

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3076 kJ 742 kcal 56.0 g 19.7 g 11.5 g 3.9 g 38.0 g 1.2 g 1.2 g

Chicken was used in place of quail.

1 Wash the quails thoroughly inside and out, then


place them in a large colander to drain for at least
20 minutes; pat the quail dry.
2 Stuff the cavity of each bird with 1 slice of
pancetta and 1 sage leaf.

Stuff the cavity of the quail

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33 Braised baron of rabbit with olives and tomatoes

1 Prepare the rabbits well ahead of time: cut the


rabbits across at the point where the ribs end and
chop the forequarters into small pieces.
2 Cut the vegetables into a mirepoix.
3 In a large saucepan, brown the bones and
mirepoix in 2 tablespoons (or 5 tablespoons) of
the olive oil.
4 Add the vinegar and sugar, and toss to coat.
Cook until light brown.
5 Pour over almost all the white wine, reserving
about 150 ml (or 375 ml) for deglazing the roasting
pan later. Boil hard to reduce until the liquid has a
syrupy consistency.
6 Just cover with cold water, return to the boil
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
and skim.
Farm-raised rabbit barons (approx. 2 5
750–800 g each), including bones 7 Simmer for 1½ hours.
and trim for gravy
8 Pass the resulting stock into a bowl, wash out the
Carrot 1 2½ saucepan and return the stock to it.
Onion 1 2½ 9 Bring back to the boil, skim again and, once
Celery stick 1 2½ more, return to a slow simmer until reduced by
Olive oil 90 ml 225 ml half. Reserve.
Balsamic vinegar 15 ml 40 ml 10 Cut the rabbit legs into two (thigh and drumstick),
Caster sugar 10 g 25 g and the rack into two.
Dry white wine 750 ml 1.9 litres 11 In a large saucepan, brown the meat cuts in
Butter, to brown the meat 125 ml 310 ml
foaming butter; when golden brown, add the
finished stock and cook for a further 1½ hours
Basil leaves 12 30
(approximately).
Black olives 32 80
12 When cooked, pass the sauce through a fine
Sun-dried tomato pieces 8 20
strainer, bring to the boil and reduce by half.
Salt and pepper
13 While reducing, put the rabbit into a casserole/
serving dish, julienne the basil and remove the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
2,365 kJ 568 kcal 41.0 g 8.4 g 5.5 g 4.8 g 44.6 g 0.9 g
stones from the olives.
14 When the sauce is reduced by half, add the
tomatoes, olives and basil. Correct the seasoning,
Variation
pour over the rabbit and serve.
The ingredients that give this recipe a Mediterranean
influence (basil, olives and sun-dried tomatoes) can be Note
omitted or substituted with a British theme – for example
woodland mushrooms and parsnips – and served with A baron is the rear end of the rabbit – the rack and the
braised cabbage. two hind legs.

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34 German-style saddle of hare 

1 Season the hare with salt and pepper, and place into
a suitable container (e.g. stainless steel or china).
2 Cover with the marinade ingredients.
3 Refrigerate, turning the joints over frequently, for
approximately 24 hours.
4 Remove the saddles from the marinade and dry
thoroughly.
5 Remove the vegetables from the marinade and
place into a roasting tray. Place the saddles
on top of the vegetables and roast in the oven
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions at 180 °C.
For the marinade 6 When the saddle is three-quarters cooked,
Carrot, finely sliced 200 g 400 g remove the vegetables.
Onion, finely sliced 200 g 400 g 7 Add the cream to the roasting tray and continue
cooking. Baste the meat frequently with the
Celery, finely sliced 100 g 200 g
cream. Keep the meat pink.
Cloves of garlic 2 5
8 Remove the saddles from the tray. Separate the
Parsley stalks 25 g 60 g
meat from the bone and slice each side into four
Sprig of thyme pieces.
Bay leaf ½ 1 9 Add a few drops of lemon juice to the cooking
Cloves 2 5 liquor, correct the seasoning and consistency,
Peppercorns 12 30 and pass through a fine strainer. Serve the sauce
Red wine 500 ml 1.25 litres with the saddles.
Suitable accompaniments include: cabbage; braised
Wine vinegar 125 ml 310 ml
chestnuts or chestnut purée; Brussels sprouts with
Oil 125 ml 310 ml
chestnuts; purée of celeriac, celeriac and parsnips or
For the hare
celeriac and onion; buttered noodles.
Saddles of hare 2–4 5–10
Salt, pepper Note
Cream 125 ml 310 ml The saddle is a joint cut from the back of the hare,
Lemon juice usually in a similar way to a short saddle of lamb – that
is, a pair of uncut loins. All skin and sinew must be
removed and the joint trimmed before use. If desired, the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
3,561 kJ 859 kcal 60.6 g 14.3 g 9.4 g 7.1 g 47.3 g 3.6 g joint may be larded with pork fat.
A saddle of hare yields one or two portions, depending
on its size.
Variation
l After the saddle is removed, the roasting tray can be It is not essential to marinade the saddle if obtained
deglazed with brandy, whisky or gin. from a young hare but, if there is any doubt as to its
l Sliced mushrooms (cultivated or wild) can be added tenderness, or if it is to be kept for a few days, then the
to the sauce. joint should be marinated, as in this recipe.

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12 Vegetables and vegetable
protein
This chapter is relevant to the following units:
➜ Prepare vegetables for basic dishes.
➜ Cook and finish basic vegetable dishes.
➜ Prepare, cook and finish vegetable protein dishes.

Recipes included in this chapter 26 Okra curry 366


Tubers
No. Recipe Page
27 Plain boiled potatoes (pommes nature) 367
Root vegetables
28 Parsley potatoes (pommes persillées) 367
1 Buttered carrots (carottes au beurre) 352
29 New potatoes (pommes nouvelles) 368
2 Carrots in cream sauce (carottes à la crème) 352
30 Mashed potatoes (pommes purées) 369
3 Purée of carrots (purée de carottes) 353
31 Duchess potatoes 370
4 Beetroot (betterave) 353
32 Steamed potatoes in their jackets (pommes 371
5 Goats’ cheese and beetroot tarts with salad 354 vapeur)
of watercress
33 Baked jacket potatoes (pommes au four) 371
6 Parsnips (panais) 355
34 Roast potatoes (pommes rôties) 372
7 Buttered celeriac, turnip or swede 355
35 Chateau potatoes 372
8 Purée of celeriac, turnips, swede or parsnips 356
36 Fried or chipped potatoes 373
9 Salsify 356
37 Sauté potatoes 374
Bulbs
38 Sauté potatoes with onions (pommes 375
10 Fried onions (oignons sautées ou oignons 357
lyonnaise)
lyonnaise)
39 New potato rissoles (pommes nouvelles 376
11 French-fried onions (oignons frites à la 357
rissolées)
française)
40 Parmentier potatoes 376
12 Caramelised button onions 358
41 Noisette potatoes (pommes noisettes) 377
13 Braised fennel with black olives and 359
cardamom 42 Cocotte potatoes (pommes cocotte) 377
14 Braised leeks with garlic and olives 359 43 Fondant potatoes 378
Flower heads 44 Savoury potatoes (pommes boulangères) 379
15 Broccoli 360 45 Macaire potatoes (potato cakes) 380
16 Cauliflower (chou-fleur nature) 361 46 Byron potatoes (pommes Byron) 381
17 Cauliflower au gratin 361 47 Swiss potato cakes (rösti) 381
Fungi 48 Croquette potatoes 382
18 Grilled mushrooms (champignons grillés) 362 49 Potatoes cooked in milk with cheese 382
19 Stuffed mushrooms (champignons farcis) 362 50 Potatoes with bacon and onions 383
Seeds and pods 51 Delmonico potatoes 383
20 Broad beans 363 52 Jerusalem artichokes in cream sauce 384
21 Mangetout 363 (topinambours à la crème)

22 French beans (haricots verts) 364 Leafy vegetables

23 French-style peas (petit pois à la française) 364 53 Spring greens (choux de printemps) 385

24 Corn on the cob 365 54 Leaf spinach (épinards en branches) 385

25 Okra in cream sauce 366 55 Spinach purée 386

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56 Cabbage (chou vert) 386 75 Courgette flowers 400


57 Braised red cabbage (choux à la flamande)) 387 76 Roast butternut squash 401
58 Brussels sprouts (choux de bruxelles) 388 77 Roast squash or pumpkin with cinnamon and 402
ginger
Stems
78 Stuffed peppers (piment farci) 403
59 Artichoke bottoms 388
Seaweed and sea vegetables
60 Globe artichokes 390
79 Baked salmon salad with sea vegetables 404
61 Asparagus points or tips 391
80 Japanese sea vegetable and noodle salad 405
62 Asparagus wrapped in puff pastry with 392
Gruyère Mixed vegetable dishes
63 Braised chicory 393 81 Mixed vegetables (macédoine or jardinère de 405
legumes)
64 Shallow-fried chicory 393
82 Ratatouille 406
65 Kohlrabi 394
83 Ratatouille pancakes with a cheese sauce 407
Vegetable fruits
84 Roasted vegetables 407
66 Tomato concassé 394
85 Tempura 408
67 Stuffed tomatoes 396
86 Vegetable biryani 410
68 Fried aubergine (aubergine frite) 397
87 Vegetable curry with rice pilaff 411
69 Stuffed aubergine 397
Vegetable protein
70 Marrow 398
88 Crispy deep-fried tofu 412
71 Marrow provençale 398
89 Chinese vegetable and seitan stir-fry 412
72 Shallow-fried courgettes 399
Other vegetarian dishes
73 Deep-fried courgettes 399
90 Cheese fritters (beignets au fromage) 413
74 Fettuccine of courgette with chopped basil 400
and balsamic vinegar 91 Cheese soufflé (soufflé au fromage) 414

Vegetables (although it can be underground). A young stem is


called a shoot.
Vegetable is a culinary term that generally refers to the edible l A bulb is an organ in some plants which consist of an
part of a plant. All parts of herbaceous plants eaten as food underground axis with many thick overlapping leaves.
by humans, in whole or in part, are normally considered to be l A flower is the reproductive part of the plant, often
vegetables. Mushrooms, though categorised as fungi, are also brightly coloured to attract insects.
commonly considered vegetables. In general, vegetables are l A tuber is an underground stem used for storing food;
thought of as being savoury, not sweet, although there are it is also able to produce new plants.
many exceptions. In most countries they are associated with l A leaf is the part of the plant that makes food by
poultry, meat or fish as part of a meal or as an ingredient. photosynthesis.
Nuts, grains, herbs, spices and culinary fruits (see below) are l A pod is the part in some plants where the seeds are
not normally considered to be vegetables. Some vegetables developed, for example pea pods.
are botanically classed as fruits – tomatoes are berries and l A seed is the reproductive mechanism of the plant.
avocados are drupes – but both are commonly used as l Fruits are the part of the flowering plant that contains
vegetables because they are not sweet. the seeds.
Vegetables can include leaves (lettuce), stems (asparagus), Vegetables are an important part of our diet, so it is essential
roots (carrots), flowers (broccoli), bulbs (garlic), seeds (peas to pay attention to quality, purchasing, storage and efficient
and beans) and vegetable fruits (such as cucumbers, squash, preparation and cooking if the nutritional content of
pumpkins and capsicums). vegetables is to be conserved.
l A root is the part of the plant growing down into
the soil to support the plant and take up water and The nutrient content of different types of vegetables varies
nutrients. considerably. With the exception of pulses, vegetables
l A stem is the part of the plant usually above the provide little protein or fat, but they do contain water-
ground that bears the buds, leaves, flowers and fruit soluble vitamins such as vitamin B and vitamin C, fat-soluble

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Vegetables and vegetable protein 12

vitamins including vitamin A and vitamin D, as well as Quality points


carbohydrates and minerals. Root vegetables contain starch Root vegetables must be:
or sugar for energy, a small but valuable amount of protein, l clean, free from soil
some mineral salts and vitamins. They are also useful sources l firm, not soft or spongy
of cellulose and water. Green vegetables are rich in mineral l sound
salts and vitamins, particularly vitamin C and carotene. The l free from blemishes
greener the leaf, the larger the quantity of vitamins present. l of an even size
The chief mineral salts are calcium and iron. l of an even shape.
Vegetables are also an excellent source of antioxidants, Green vegetables must be absolutely fresh and have leaves
which can lower the risk of heart disease, cancer and that are bright in colour, crisp and not wilted. In addition:
diabetes-related damage, and even slow down the body’s l cabbages and Brussels sprouts should be compact and
natural ageing process. firm
l cauliflowers should have closely grown flowers, a
Purchasing and selection firm white head and not too much stalk or too many
outer leaves
The purchasing of vegetables is affected by:
l peas and beans should be crisp and of medium size;
l the perishable nature of the products
pea pods should be full and beans not stringy
l varying availability owing to seasonal fluctuations, and
l blanched stems must be firm, white, crisp and free
supply and demand
from soil.
l the effects of preservation (for example, freezing, drying
and canning). Potatoes must be inspected and selected before buying
or on delivery.
Fresh vegetables are living organisms and will lose quality
l Choose firm, smooth ones.
quickly if not stored and handled properly. Automation in
l Avoid excessively wrinkled, withered, cracked potatoes.
harvesting and packaging speeds the handling process and
l Do not buy those that have a lot of sprouts or green areas.
helps retain quality.

Table 12.1 UK vegetable availability according to season


Autumn Winter
Spring Summer (September, October, (December, January,
(March, April, May) (June, July, August) November) February)
Asparagus Aubergine Beetroot Beetroot
Cauliflower Beetroot Carrots Brussels sprouts
Cucumber Broad beans Celeriac Cabbage
Jersey royal new potatoes Broccoli Fennel Cauliflower
Purple sprouting broccoli Carrots Field mushrooms Celeriac
Radishes Courgettes Kale Chicory
Savoy cabbage Cucumber Leeks Fennel
Sorrel Fennel Lettuce Jerusalem artichokes
Spinach Fresh peas Marrows Kale
Spring greens Garlic Potatoes Leeks
Spring onions Green beans Pumpkins Parsnips
Watercress Lettuce and salad leaves Rocket Potatoes
New potatoes Sorrel Red cabbage
Radishes Squashes Swede
Rocket Sweet corn Turnips
Runner beans Tomatoes
Salad onions Watercress
Sorrel
Tomatoes
Watercress
Source: www.lovebritishfood.co.uk

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Grading Leafy vegetables lose moisture, and vitamin C degrades


The EU vegetable quality grading system is as follows: rapidly, during storage. They should be stored for as short
l Extra class: produce of the highest quality a time as possible in a cool place in either a plastic bag or
l Class 1: produce of good quality sealed plastic container. Green vegetables lose vitamin C
l Class 2: produce of reasonably good quality quickly if they are bruised, damaged, stored for too long,
l Class 3: produce of low market quality. prepared too early or overcooked.
l Store all vegetables in a cool, dry, well-ventilated room
Video: at an even temperature of 4–8 °C, which will help to
vegetable minimise spoilage. Check vegetables daily and discard
quality points any that are unsound.
http://bit.
ly/17qTnOH l Remove root vegetables from their sacks and store in
bins or racks.
l Store green vegetables on well-ventilated racks.
Seasonal availability l Store salad vegetables in a cool place and leave in their
With the advances and development of transportation and containers.
refrigeration, fruit and vegetables can be purchased from l Store frozen vegetables between −18 °C and −20 °C.
all over the world and therefore, in many cases, seasons do Keep a check on use-by dates, damaged packages and
not exist: for example, we can enjoy strawberries all year any signs of freezer burn.
round. However, the UK strawberry season starts in late l You can store potatoes for several months without
May/early June – local strawberries are full of flavour, while affecting their quality; they should be stored at a
often imported strawberries lack flavour. For this reason, constant temperature (3 °C). If it is not possible to store
purchasing locally from local farms and specialist growers them in this way, buying fresh potatoes regularly is best
is popular, so knowing when vegetables are in season is practice. There are three essential rules to bear in mind
important. when storing potatoes: dry, dark and cool. You should
Provenance (knowing where our food comes from) has avoid light as this will cause sprouting and, eventually,
also become increasingly important as the consumer is the greening effect, which contains mild toxins; if you
now more concerned about the environment and carbon have inadvertently purchased potatoes with this green
omissions; restricting the amount of food travelling around tinge, remove the green bits and the rest of the potato
the world as aircraft cargo has become an important issue. is then fine to use. The storage of a potato is perhaps
Consumers are also interested in the traceability of food – the most important aspect of its life – the closer the
where it comes from, how it is grown and the welfare of temperature is to freezing point, the quicker the potato
farm workers. EU regulations require the food industry to starch coverts to sugar, producing a sweet flesh, but a
trace the food, how food is farmed and how the animals are loss of structure and, often, discoloration.
looked after and fed.
Health and safety
l If vegetables are stored at the incorrect temperature
Storing vegetables micro-organisms may develop.
The fresher the vegetables, the better the flavour, so ideally l If vegetables are stored in damp conditions moulds
they should not be stored at all. However, as storage is may develop.
l To prevent bacteria from raw vegetables passing on
necessary in many cases, it should be for the shortest time
to cooked vegetables, store them in separate areas.
possible. l Thaw out frozen vegetables correctly and never
Many root and non-root vegetables that grow underground refreeze them once they have thawed out.
can be stored over winter in a root cellar or other similarly
cool, dark and dry place, to prevent the growth of mould, Preparing vegetables
greening and sprouting. Care should be taken to understand
Vegetables should be washed to remove any residue,
the properties and vulnerabilities of the particular roots to
chemicals and impurities before peeling. Peeling removes
be stored. These vegetables can last through to early spring
the outer skin of the vegetable or fruit; not all vegetables
and be almost as nutritious as when fresh.
and fruit require peeling – this will depend on the type of
fruit and vegetables and the recipe.

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Vegetables and vegetable protein 12

Cuts of vegetables
The size and shape to which the vegetables are cut may
vary according to their type and use.

1 4 9 13

2 5 10 14

6 15
11
3

16

12
7 8

1 Large mirepoix 9 Carrot block


2 Small mirepoix 10 Carrot strips
3 Paysanne 11 Julienne
4 Sliced courgette 12 Brunoise
5 Turned vegetables 13 Large block of mooli
6 Finely diced onion 14 Flat block
7 Tomato petals 15 Jardinière
8 Tomato concassé (gros brunoise) 16 Macédoine
Cuts of vegetables

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Cutting vegetables into julienne (strips)

1 Cut the vegetables into 2 cm lengths (short julienne). 2 Cut the lengths into thin slices.

3 Cut the slices into thin strips. 4 Double the length gives a long julienne, used for
garnishing (e.g. salads, meats, fish and poultry dishes).

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Cutting vegetables into brunoise (small dice)

1 Cut the vegetables into convenient-sized lengths. 2 Cut the lengths into 2 mm slices.

3 Cut the slices into 2 mm strips. 4 Cut the strips into 2 mm squares.

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Cutting vegetables into macédoine (0.5 cm dice)

1 Cut the vegetables into convenient lengths. 2 Cut the lengths into 0.5 cm slices.

3 Cut the slices into 0.5 cm strips. 4 Cut the strips into 0.5 cm squares.

Video: cutting
vegetables into
macédoine
http://bit.ly/
1znW8rU

Cutting vegetables into jardinière (batons)

1 Cut the vegetables into 1.5 cm 2 Cut the lengths into 3 mm slices. 3 Cut the slices into batons
lengths. (3 × 3 × 18 mm).

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There are at least four accepted methods of cutting 66 °C and 77 °C, chlorophyll is unstable. Chlorophyll is the
paysanne. In order to cut economically, the shape of the green pigment in any plant that photosynthesises. For this
vegetables should dictate which method to choose. All are reason it is important to get through this temperature zone
cut thinly. as quickly as possible.
l 1 cm sided triangles.
l 1 cm sided squares. Steaming
l 1 cm diameter rounds. All vegetables cooked by boiling may also be cooked by
l 1 cm diameter rough-sided rounds. steaming. The vegetables are prepared in exactly the
Concassé means roughly chopped. Skinned and deseeded same way as for boiling, placed into steamer trays, lightly
tomatoes are roughly chopped for many food preparations seasoned with salt and steamed under pressure for the
(see recipe 66). The term is also used to refer to skinned and minimum period of time in order to conserve maximum
deseeded tomatoes that are cut into neat strips or cubes food value and retain colour. High-speed steam cookers are
and used as a garnish. ideal for this purpose and, because of the speed of cooking
they offer, batch cooking (cooking in small quantities
Ready-prepared potatoes throughout the service) can be practised instead of cooking
large quantities prior to service, refreshing and reheating.
Potatoes are obtainable in many convenience forms: peeled,
turned, cut into various shapes for frying, or scooped into
balls (Parisienne) or olive shaped. Frying
l Chips are available fresh, frozen, chilled or vacuum Many vegetables are cooked from raw by the stir-fry method,
packed. a quick and nutritious method of cooking. Vegetables
l Frozen potatoes are available as croquettes, hash may also be deep fried with a protective coating, such as
browns, sauté and roast. tempura vegetables in a tempura batter. Vegetables may
l Mashed potato powder and flakes are also available. also be shallow fried in butter or vegetable oil, for example
shallow-fried courgettes.

Cooking vegetables Health and safety


Approximate times only are given in the recipes in this
Make sure that vegetables are dry before being
chapter for the cooking of vegetables, as quality, age, placed into hot oil. Make sure that every chef
freshness and size all affect the length of cooking time knows the fire drill and that they are confident in the
required. Young, freshly picked vegetables will need to be procedures and systems for frying. Always have a
cooked for a shorter time than vegetables that have been spider and basket at hand when you are deep frying in
order to remove the food quickly and safely if there is a
allowed to grow older and that may have been stored after
problem. Always wear protective clothing when frying:
picking. it is safer to wear a chefs’ jacket with long sleeves
As a general rule, all root vegetables (with the exception rather than short sleeves.
of new potatoes) are started off by cooking in cold salted
water. Vegetables that grow above the ground are started
in boiling salted water; this is so that they may be cooked as Stewing
quickly as possible for the minimum period of time, so that Stewing is an old, traditional method of cooking vegetables.
maximum flavour, food value and colour are retained. The vegetables are cut into even pieces, gently sweated on
the stove in a little oil, then a stock or tomato juice is added
Blanching and allowed to simmer on the stove or in an oven.
Delicate vegetables – particularly green vegetables – can The stewed vegetables may be flavoured with chopped
be blanched in salted boiling water and then refreshed herbs and/or spices. A classical stewed vegetable dish
in ice-cold water to arrest the cooking process. The main is ratatouille, which consists of aubergines, peppers,
reason for this is because, between the temperatures of courgettes, onions and tomatoes in their juices.

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Braising Cooking potatoes


Vegetables that are most suitable for braising include Potatoes are tubers. They can have white, brown, purple or
potatoes, onions, cabbage, fennel, and celery. In most cases red skin, and white or golden flesh. Several named varieties
vegetables are blanched (potatoes are the exception) and of potato are grown in the UK and these will be available
placed in a shallow pan with stock to come two-thirds of according to the season. The different varieties have differing
the way up, so not covering the vegetable. characteristics and some are more suitable for certain methods
of cooking than others (see chart and Table 12.2). The careful
Healthy eating tips selection of potatoes to suit the job in hand is essential.
l Cook vegetables al dente.
l Cook, reheat and serve immediately. Cooked potatoes may have different textures, depending
l Use olive oil in place of butter. on whether they are ‘waxy’ or ‘floury’ varieties. This is due
l Avoid the use of cream – use fromage frais or yoghurt to changes that happen to the potato cells during cooking.
instead. These differences influence the performance of the potato
l Do not over-season – reduce the amount of salt used
in cooking vegetables.
when cooked in different ways (for example, boiling versus
roasting).

Source: Potato Council

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l ‘Waxy’ potatoes are more solid than floury potatoes cells and the starch so they absorb less liquid, making
and hold their shape when boiled, but do not mash the potatoes less gluey and fluffier. The slower the
well. They are particularly suitable for baked and layered mash is cooked the better for the starch as it has more
potato dishes such as boulangère potatoes. Popular structure in the final mixing process, allowing the
varieties include Cara and Charlotte. Waxy potatoes are potato to hold in more fat/liquid than if cooked by the
translucent and may have a moist and pasty feel. more traditional quicker method. Bring the potatoes up
l ‘Floury’ potatoes are especially popular in the UK. They to the boil from cold as normal and boil for 2–3 minutes,
are brighter and granular in appearance, leaving a drier remove and rinse in cold water, then repeat the process
feel. They are suitable for baking, mashing and chipping of boiling from cold and turn the heat down, not even
as they have a soft, dry texture when cooked. They are to a simmer. This will obviously take longer but will
not suitable for boiling, however, because they tend to reduce the water absorption rate dramatically due to
disintegrate. Popular varieties of floury potato include the starch wall created by the first process.
King Edward and Maris Piper. l Roasting: roast potatoes are simply cut into chunks
and parboiled slowly until just cooked on the inside.
During cooking, the starch in the potato starts to absorb
Drain and toss in a liberal amount of olive oil and
water and swell in size. Potatoes need to be cooked for
seasoning, then roast at a high temperature (220 °C)
sufficient time to gelatinise the starch or they will look and
for 15 minutes. Remove, turn the temperature down to
taste undercooked.
180 °C and baste every 5 minutes to ensure a crisp coat
Table 12.2 Potato varieties and recommended cooking methods all over. Once cooked serve immediately, as prolonged
Variety Methods of cookery holding will inevitably cause the inside to steam,
Cara Boil, bake, chip, wedge making the outside soft and leathery.
Charlotte Boil, salad use
Yield
Desiree Boil, roast, bake, chip, mash,
l 0.5 kg of old potatoes will yield approximately three
wedge
portions.
Golden Wonder Boil, roast, crisps l 0.5 kg of new potatoes will yield approximately four
King Edward Boil, bake, roast, mash, chip portions.
Maris Piper Boil, roast, bake, chip l 1.5 kg of old potatoes will yield approximately ten
Pink Fir Apple Boil, salad use portions.
l 1.25 kg of new potatoes will yield approximately ten
Premiere Boil
portions.
Record Crisps
Romano Boil, bake, roast, mash
Saxon Boil, bake, chip
Finishing vegetable dishes
It is important to finish vegetable dishes at the point of
Wilja Boil, bake, chip, mash
service to retain their temperature and, for green vegetables,
l Baking: long slow cooking is best for baked potatoes. so that they retain their colour. There are a variety of finishes
The skin becomes very crisp and turns darker because for vegetable dishes based on the individual recipes. Some
the starch just below the skin converts to sugar, which vegetables are simply brushed with butter or olive oil,
browns in heat. Make sure you cut a slit in the potato as while some are finished with pine nuts, chopped mixed
soon as it comes out of the oven so the interior doesn’t herbs, cream, cheese sauce, toasted almonds or toasted
steam, which makes for a heavier consistency. breadcrumbs with mixed herbs.
l Mashing: mashed potatoes can be made from many
varieties of potato. The starch in the potatoes, once Holding and serving
again, absorbs water and swells during the cooking As soon as vegetables have been cooked or reheated for
process. Then, when the potato is mashed or riced, the service, serve immediately at the correct temperature
cells break open, releasing more starch, which makes (at least 65 °C). Vegetables such as French beans, broccoli
the potatoes creamy and smooth. If you boil potatoes and carrots loose heat very quickly. Vegetables on a buffet
for mashing, return them to the hot pan after draining service must be served in batches and replenished regularly.
and shake over a medium heat for 2–3 minutes to Do not leave vegetables out on a hotplate for long periods
dry the potatoes. Whatever the cooking method, add as green vegetables will lose their colour as well as their
butter when you begin mashing. The butter coats the vitamin C content.

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Vegetable protein TVP is used mainly as a meat extender, replacing from


10 to 60 per cent of fresh meat. Some caterers on very
According to the Vegetarian Society, vegetarian diets tight budgets make use of it, but its main use is in food
are consistent with dietary guidelines and can meet manufacturing.
recommended dietary allowances for nutrients. You can
get enough protein from a vegetarian diet as long as the By partially replacing the meat in certain dishes – such as
variety of foods and the amounts consumed are adequate. casseroles, stews, pies, pasties, sausage rolls, hamburgers,
Alternative sources of essential nutrients when following meat loaf and pâté – it is possible to reduce costs, meet
a vegetarian diet include fruits and vegetables; cereals, nutritional targets and serve food that is acceptable in
grains and pulses; nuts and seeds; dairy products such as appearance.
milk, cheese and eggs; and vegetable protein. (For more Soya protein can also be useful when making vegetarian
information on vegetarian diets see Chapter 17.) dishes.

Soya products Mycoprotein


The soybean is an important global food source from This meat substitute is produced from a plant that is a
which many products are made. Its leguminous seeds are distant relative of the mushroom. Mycoprotein contains
high in protein and contain important amino acids, which protein and fibre, and is the result of a fermentation process
are essential and cannot be made in the body. Soya flour similar to the way yoghurt is made. It may be used as an
is used to boost the protein content of a variety of dishes. alternative to chicken or beef or in vegetarian dishes. The
most common brand is Quorn.
Tofu It is a low-fat, high-protein food that can be used in a variety
Tofu (also known as bean curd) is a product of the soybean of dishes (for example, oriental stir-fries) and does not shrink
and is generally available in two forms: silken tofu (soft or during preparation and cooking. Quorn mince or pieces
Japanese-style tofu), made from lightly pressed soybean can be substituted for chicken or minced meats. Its mild
curd; and firm tofu (or Chinese-style tofu), which is more savoury flavour means that it complements the herbs and
heavily pressed. Silken tofu, with its softer consistency is spices in a recipe and it is able to absorb flavour. Frozen
used in soups, sauces and desserts, and is seen as a healthier Quorn may be cooked straight from the freezer or may
option to cream. Regular tofu is more common than silken be defrosted overnight in the refrigerator. Once thawed, it
tofu. must be stored in the refrigerator and used within 24 hours.
To produce tofu, soybeans are boiled, puréed and pressed
through a sieve to produce soya milk. The milk is then
processed in a similar way to soft cheese.
Seitan
Seitan (also called wheat meat or wheat gluten) is produced
Always keep tofu in a refrigerator and follow the instructions from wheat and has a high gluten content. It can be used
on the packet from the supplier. as a vegetarian alternative and as a meat substitute, and is
high in protein. Asian restaurants use seitan as ‘mock meat’.
Tempeh Seitan can be prepared by hand using either wholewheat
Tempeh is a fermented soybean product that is cooked and
flour or vital wheat gluten; it is made by rinsing away the
pressed. It is similar to tofu but has a firmer texture and is
starch in the wheat, leaving high-protein gluten.
purchased chilled.

Textured vegetable protein (TVP) Quality points for vegetable


This meat substitute is manufactured from protein derived
protein
from wheat, oats, cottonseed, soybean and other sources. l Check the expiry date.
The main source of TVP is the soybean, due to its high l There should be no unpleasant smell.
protein content. l There should be no discoloration (good colour).
l Tofu should be kept in the refrigerator.
l Soya must be free from foreign bodies.
l Packaging should be undamaged.

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Vegetables and vegetable protein 12

Test yourself
1 State two quality points to look for when buying leeks.
2 List five vegetables that are in season in autumn.
3 Describe the following cuts of vegetables:
a macédoine
b jardinière
c julienne
d paysanne.
4 Describe the preparation and cooking of braised red cabbage.
5 How should fresh green vegetables be stored?
6 What is meant by ‘blanching’ of vegetables and why is it done?
7 Describe two ways to make vegetable dishes healthier.
8 What is the difference between the method of boiling for green vegetables,
such as broccoli, and root vegetables, such as potatoes?
9 Describe how tofu should be stored.
10 List three quality points you should look for when buying soya.

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Root vegetables

1 Buttered carrots (carottes au beurre)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Carrots 400 g 1 kg
Salt
Sugar
Butter 25 g 60 g
Parsley, chopped

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


297 kJ 71 kcal 5.1 g 3.3 g 5.8 g 5.8 g 0.7 g 2.8 g

Healthy eating tips


Use the minimum amount of salt.

1 Peel and wash the carrots. 5 When the water has completely evaporated
2 Cut into neat, even pieces, turned barrel shapes check that the carrots are cooked; if not, add a
or batons. little more water and continue cooking. Do not
overcook.
3 Place in a pan with a little salt, a pinch of sugar
and the butter. Barely cover with water. 6 Toss the carrots over a fierce heat for 1–2 minutes
in order to give them a glaze.
4 Cover with buttered paper and allow to boil
steadily in order to evaporate all the water. 7 Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

2 Carrots in cream sauce (carottes à la crème)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Carrots 400 g 1 kg
Salt
Butter 25 g 60 g
Parsley, chopped
Cream sauce (page 84) 100 ml 250 ml

1 Prepare and cook carrots as for buttered carrots


(see recipe 1).
2 Mix with the cream sauce, correct the seasoning
and serve.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
511 kJ 123 kcal 8.2 g 4.6 g 11.5 g 7.8 g 1.4 g 2.5 g

Using a cream sauce based on béchamel with single cream


added 40:10.

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Note Healthy eating tips


l Use the minimum amount of salt.
The cream sauce can be based on a béchamel sauce l Try replacing half the cream sauce with natural yoghurt.
with single cream added in a ratio of 40:10. It could be
made with wholemeal flour, skimmed milk and natural
yoghurt.

3 Purée of carrots (purée de carottes)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Carrots 600 g 1.5 kg
Salt, pepper
Butter 25 g 60 g

1 Wash, peel and rewash the carrots. Cut into


pieces.
2 Barely cover with water, add a little salt. Simmer
gently or steam until tender.
3 Drain well. Pass through a sieve or mouli.
4 Return to the pan, reheat and mix in the butter,
correct the seasoning and serve.

Healthy eating tips


Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Use the minimum amount of salt.
410 kJ 99 kcal 5.6 g 3.4 g 11.9 g 11.1 g 0.9 g 3.6 g

4 Beetroot (betterave)

1 Select medium-sized or small beetroots; carefully


twist off the green leaves (do not cut).
2 Wash well in cold water, cover with water and
simmer gently until the skin is easily removed by
rubbing between the fingers.

Note
Do not cut or prick with a knife as the beetroots will
‘bleed’ and turn pale.

Variation
Beetroot may also be cooked in a steamer, or baked.
It may be served hot:
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l in cream sauce
92 kJ 22 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 5.0 g 5.0 g 0.9 g 1.3 g
l coated in herb-flavoured oil
l coated in butter and marmalade.

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Peel the cooked beetroot, wearing gloves to avoid staining your skin Cut into neat dice

5 Goats’ cheese and beetroot tarts with salad of 


watercress

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Puff pastry 400 g 1 kg
Shallots 150 g 375 g
Beetroot, cooked 200 g 500 g
Goats’ cheese 200 g 500 g
Watercress, bunch 1 2

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


2,377 kJ 568 kcal 37.7 g 9.0 g 43.6 g 7.5 g 18.6 g 1.8 g

1 Roll the puff pastry to a thickness of 3 mm. 7 To make the tarts, place the shallots on the
2 Chill the rolled puff pastry for 10 minutes. pastry discs.
3 Finely slice the shallots and sweat down 8 Cook at 180 °C for 12 minutes.
without colour. 9 Once cooked, remove from the oven and top with
4 Cut the puff pastry into 4 discs approximately the diced beetroot and crumbled goats’ cheese.
150 mm in diameter. 10 To finish the dish, place the tarts on plates and
5 Chill the pastry discs for 10 minutes. finish with picked watercress and vinaigrette.
6 Dice the cooked beetroot into pieces 10 × 10 mm.

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6 Parsnips (panais)

1 Wash well. Peel the parsnips and rewash well.


2 Cut into quarters lengthwise, remove the centre
root if tough.
3 Cut into neat pieces and cook in lightly salted
water until tender, or steam.
4 Drain and serve with melted butter or in a
cream sauce.

Variation
Parsnips may be roasted in the oven in a little fat (as
shown here) or in with a joint, and can be cooked and
prepared as a purée.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Professional tip
235 kJ 56 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 13.5 g 2.7 g 1.3 g 2.5 g
For great roast parsnips, blanch them for 2 minutes,
drain, then roast in hot olive oil.

7 Buttered celeriac, turnip or swede

1 Peel and wash the vegetables.


2 Cut into neat pieces or turn barrel shaped.
3 Place in a pan with a little salt, a pinch of sugar
and the butter. Barely cover with water.
4 Cover with a buttered paper and allow to boil
steadily in order to evaporate all the water.
5 When the water has completely evaporated,
check that the vegetables are cooked; if not,
add a little more water and continue cooking.
Do not overcook.
6 Toss the vegetables over a fierce heat for
1–2 minutes to glaze.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
7 Drain well, and serve sprinkled with chopped
Celeriac, turnips or swedes 400 g 1 kg
parsley.
Salt, sugar
Butter 25 g 60 g
Parsley, chopped

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


253 kJ 60 kcal 5.4 g 3.3 g 2.5 g 2.5 g 0.7 g 1.9 g

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8 Purée of celeriac, turnips, swede or parsnips

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Celeriac, turnips, swede or parsnips 600 g 1.5 kg
Salt, pepper
Butter 25 g 60 g

1 Wash, peel and rewash the vegetables. Cut into


pieces if necessary.
2 Barely cover with water; add a little salt.
3 Simmer gently until tender, or steam. Drain well.
4 Pass through a sieve or mouli, or use a food
processor.
5 Return to the pan, reheat and mix in the butter;
correct the seasoning and serve.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
395 kJ 95 kcal 5.9 g 3.3 g 9.2 g 6.4 g 1.8 g 4.7 g Variation
Using mixed vegetables and 25 g butter. Combination vegetable purées can include, for example,
swede and carrot, and parsnip and potato.

9 Salsify

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Flour 10 g 20 g
Cold water 0.5 litres 1 litre
Salt, to taste
Lemon, juice of ½ 1

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


76 kJ 18 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 2.8 g 2.8 g 1.9 g 0.0 g

0.5 kg will yield 2–3 portions. To make the blanc:


1 Wash, peel and rewash the salsify. 1 Mix the flour and water together.
2 Cut into 5 cm lengths. 2 Add the salt and lemon juice. Pass through a strainer.
3 Cook in a blanc (see below). Do not overcook. 3 Place in a pan, bring to the boil, stirring
Salsify may then be served brushed with melted continuously.
butter, or coated in mornay sauce (see page 85),
sprinkled with grated cheese and browned under
a salamander. It may also be passed through
batter and deep fried.

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Bulbs

10 Fried onions (oignons sautées ou oignons 


lyonnaise)

Ingredient 2 portions 4 portions


Onions 500 g 1 kg
Oil 25–50 g 50–100 g
Salt

1 Peel and wash the onions; cut into halves and


slice finely.
2 Cook slowly in the oil in a frying pan, turning
frequently until tender and browned; season
lightly with salt.

Healthy eating tips


l Use a little unsaturated oil to cook the onion.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l Use the minimum amount of salt.
681 kJ 162 kcal 12.9 g 2.4 g 10.4 g 10.4 g 1.8 g 2.6 g

Using peanut oil.

11 French-fried onions (oignons frites à la française) 

1 Peel and wash the onions.


2 Cut into 2 mm slices, against the grain. Separate
into rings.
3 Pass through milk and seasoned flour.
4 Shake off the surplus. Deep-fry in hot fat
at 185 °C.
5 Drain well on kitchen paper, season lightly with
salt and serve.

Healthy eating tips


l Make sure the oil is hot so that less is absorbed into
the onions.
l Drain on kitchen paper.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l Use the minimum amount of salt.
661 kJ 159 kcal 11.7 g 1.6 g 12.3 g 3.5 g 2.0 g 1.0 g

Using 50 g onions, to give 83.5 g finished weight.

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Slice the onions thinly Pass each piece through milk and then seasoned flour

12 Caramelised button onions 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Butter or vegetable oil 50 g 125 g
Button onions 250 g 700 g
Water or brown stock 100 ml 250 ml
Sugar 50 g 125 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
713 kJ 171 kcal 10.8 g 6.5 g 18.4 g 16.7 g 1.2 g 1.2 g 0.5 g

1 Place the butter or oil in a shallow pan.


2 Fry the button onions quickly to a light golden
brown colour.
3 Barely cover with water or brown stock. Add
the sugar. Cook the button onions until they are
Professional tip
tender and the liquid has reduced with the sugar
The important thing is to reduce the stock and sugar
to a light caramel glaze. Carefully coat the onions
until they form a light caramel syrup.
with the glaze.

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13 Braised fennel with black olives and cardamom 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Fennel bulbs, medium 2 5
Olive or vegetable oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Cloves of garlic, crushed or chopped 1 2½
Black olives, stoned and halved 8 20
Cardamom pods 2 5
Thyme, sprigs 1 2½
Chicken stock 300 ml 750 ml
White wine 300 ml 750 ml
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
531 kJ 128 kcal 6.9 g 0.9 g 3.3 g 2.6 g 1.7 g 4.2 g 0.6 g Seasoning

1 Prepare the fennel: remove any tough outer


Note
leaves and cut into quarters vertically.
2 Heat the oil in a suitable pan, add the fennel, and Braised fennel may be served with a variety of meat and
fish dishes. It may be coated with a cream, cheese, red
sweat without colour for 5–10 minutes.
wine or Madeira sauce.
3 Add the garlic, olives, cardamom and thyme. Add
the stock and white wine, and season. Bring to
the boil. Variation
l The fennel can be blanched for 2 minutes in boiling
4 Cover with a lid and braise in an oven at 180– water and refreshed before sweating.
200 °C for approximately 1 hour, until tender. l Cinnamon or mixed spice may be used in place of
5 When cooked, remove. cardamom.

14 Braised leeks with garlic and olives 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Leeks, large 4 10
Butter 50 g 125 g
Cloves of garlic, crushed or chopped 4 10
Chicken stock 250 ml 625 ml
Thyme, sprigs 1 2½
Bay leaves 1 2½
White wine 125 ml 310 ml
Salt and pepper
Green olives, quartered 50 g 125 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
778 kJ 188 kcal 13.2 g 7.1 g 7.5 g 5.5 g 5.1 g 5.0 g 0.7 g

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1 Trim the leeks and discard any withered leaves. 8 When cooked, remove the thyme and bay leaf,
2 Cut the leeks in half lengthways, but keeping and add the olives.
them attached at the root. Wash well. 9 Serve as a vegetable or as a garnish to
3 Blanch the leeks in boiling water for 2 minutes, accompany roast meats, fish or pasta.
then refresh.
Note
4 Melt the butter in a suitable pan. Sweat the garlic.
5 Place the leeks in the pan; add all other After blanching the leeks it may be necessary to fold
them in half before braising.
ingredients except the olives. The chicken stock
should almost cover the leeks. Season.
6 Bring to the boil and cover. Variation
l Leeks may also be boiled in salted water for
7 Place in a moderate oven at 180 °C for
approximately 10–15 minutes.
approximately 20 minutes. l Leeks may be served with a cream sauce, parsley
sauce or a cheese sauce.
l Coat the leeks with a red wine sauce, sometimes
garnished with mushrooms.

Flower heads

15 Broccoli

1 Cook in lightly salted water, or steam.


1 kg of raw broccoli yields approximately 8 portions.
Because of their size, green and purple broccoli need
less cooking time than cauliflower. Broccoli is usually
broken down into florets and, as such, requires very little
cooking: once brought to the boil, 1–2 minutes should
be sufficient. This leaves the broccoli slightly crisp.
Tenderstem broccoli is increasingly popular. It has
long, slim, evenly sized stems and small flower heads,
so it cooks quickly. The distinctive flavour is similar to
asparagus. Green and purple varieties are available,
and, because of the uniform shape, they can be
presented very attractively.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
125 kJ 30 kcal 1.0 g 0.3 g 1.4 g 1.1 g 3.9 g 4.6 g 0.2 g

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16 Cauliflower (chou-fleur nature)

Variation
l Boiled or steamed cauliflower may be served
with 250 ml of cream sauce, 100 g of melted butter
or 125 ml of hollandaise sauce. Serve the sauce in a
sauceboat.
l Buttered cauliflower is brushed with 25–50 g
melted butter before serving and can be sprinkled
with chopped parsley.
l Fried cauliflower: cut the cooked cauliflower into
four portions then lightly colour on all sides in
25–50 g butter.

Video: boiling
vegetables
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
http://bit.ly/
142 kJ 34 kcal 0.9 g 0.2 g 3.0 g 2.5 g 3.6 g 1.8 g 1E6f57O
Using no additions.

Allow one medium-sized cauliflower for four portions. 3 Cook in lightly salted boiling water, or steam, for
1 Trim the stem and remove the outer leaves. approximately 10–15 minutes. Do not overcook
(if cut into florets, cook for only 3–5 minutes).
2 Hollow out the stem with a peeler or cut into
florets. Wash. 4 Drain well and serve cut into four even portions.

17 Cauliflower au gratin

1 Cut the cooked cauliflower into four.


2 Reheat in a pan of hot salted water (chauffant),
or reheat in butter in a suitable pan.
3 Place in vegetable dish or on a greased tray.
4 Coat with 250 ml of mornay sauce (see page 85).
5 Sprinkle with grated cheese.
6 Brown under the salamander and serve.

Healthy eating tips


No additional salt is needed as cheese is added.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


632 kJ 150 kcal 10.4 g 3.9 g 8.6 g 3.8 g 6.3 g 2.0 g

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Fungi

18 Grilled mushrooms (champignons grillés)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Grilling mushrooms (flat 200 g 500 g
mushrooms)
Salt, pepper
Butter, margarine or oil 50 g 125 g

1 Peel the mushrooms, remove the stalks; wash


and drain well.
2 Place on a tray and season lightly with salt and
pepper.
3 Brush with melted fat or oil and grill on both sides
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre for 3–4 minutes. Serve with picked parsley.
499 kJ 119 kcal 12.8 g 1.7 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 0.9 g 1.3 g

Using sunflower oil. Healthy eating tips


Use the minimum amount of salt.

19 Stuffed mushrooms (champignons farcis)

1 Peel the mushrooms, remove stalks and wash well.


2 Retain 8 or 12 of the best mushrooms (20 to 30
for ten portions). Finely chop the remainder with
the well-washed peelings and stalks.
3 Cook the shallots, without colour, in a little fat.
4 Add the chopped mushrooms and cook for
3–4 minutes (duxelle).
5 Grill the mushrooms as in recipe 18.
6 Place the duxelle in the centre of each mushroom.
7 Sprinkle with a few breadcrumbs and some
melted butter.
8 Reheat in the oven or under the salamander
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions and serve.
Grilling mushrooms 300 g 750 g
Healthy eating tips
Shallots, chopped 10 g 25 g Use a little unsaturated oil to cook the shallots.
Butter, margarine or oil 50 g 125 g
Breadcrumbs 25 g 60 g Variation
Mushrooms may be stuffed with ratatouille or a forcemeat.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
577 kJ 137 kcal 13.1 g 1.8 g 3.2 g 0.3 g 1.9 g 2.1 g

Using sunflower oil.

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Seeds and pods

20 Broad beans

Remove the inner shells of broad beans


Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
344 kJ 81 kcal 0.6 g 0.1 g 5.0 g 0.4 g 7.9 g 6.5 g
Variation
100 g portion.
Try:
0.5 kg will yield about 2 portions. l brushing with butter
l brushing with butter then sprinkling with chopped
1 Shell the beans and cook in boiling salted water parsley
for 10–15 minutes until tender. Do not overcook. l binding with 500 ml cream sauce or fresh cream.
2 If the inner shells are tough, remove before serving.

Professional tip
The modern technique is to take the beans out of their
pod and outer skin before serving – this reveals the
bright green, tender beans.

21 Mangetout

0.5 kg of mangetout will yield 4–6 portions.


1 Top and tail, wash and drain.
2 Cook in boiling salted water for 2–3 minutes,
until slightly crisp.
3 Serve whole, brushed with butter.

Video: boiling
vegetables
http://bit.ly/
1E6f57O

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
94 kJ 22 kcal 0.1 g 0.0 g 2.8 g 2.4 g 3.1 g 0.0 g 0.0 g

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22 French beans (haricots verts)

0.5 kg will yield 3–4 portions.


1 Top and tail the beans, carefully and economically.
2 Using a large sharp knife cut the beans into strips
5 cm × 3 mm.
3 Wash.
4 Cook in lightly salted boiling water, or steam, for
5–10 minutes, until tender.
5 Do not overcook. Drain well and serve.

Variation
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Variations include:
646 kJ 154 kcal 2.9 g 0.5 g 28.5 g 2.1 g 5.1 g 5.9 g l brushing the beans with butter
l gently tossing the cooked beans in butter over heat
without colour
l combining 400 g cooked French beans with 50 g
shallow-fried onions
l combining 400 g cooked French beans with 100 g
cooked flageolet beans.

23 French-style peas (petit pois à la française)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Peas (in the pod) 1 kg 2.5 kg
Spring or button onions 12 40
Lettuce, small 1 2–3
Butter 25 g 60 g
Salt
Caster sugar ½ tsp 1 tsp
Flour 5g 12 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


515 kJ 123 kcal 5.6 g 3.4 g 12.9 g 5.8 g 5.9 g 5.7 g

1 Shell and wash the peas and place in a sauteuse. 4 Correct the seasoning.
2 Peel and wash the onions, shred the lettuce and 5 Mix the remaining butter with the flour, making a
add to the peas with half the butter, a little salt beurre manié, and place it into the boiling peas in
and the sugar. small pieces until thoroughly mixed; serve.
3 Barely cover with water. Cover with a lid and cook When using frozen peas, allow the onions to almost
steadily, preferably in the oven, until tender. cook before adding the peas.

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Shell the peas and discard the pods Place the prepared ingredients into the Add a beurre manié at the end of the
sauteuse cooking time

24 Corn on the cob

Allow 1 cob per portion.


1 Trim the stem.
2 Cook in lightly salted boiling water for 10–
20 minutes or until the corn is tender. Do not
overcook.
3 Remove the outer leaves and fibres.
4 Serve with a sauceboat of melted butter.
Creamed sweetcorn can be made by removing the
corn from the cooked cobs, draining well and binding
lightly with cream (fresh or non-dairy), béchamel sauce
or yoghurt.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


646 kJ 154 kcal 2.9 g 0.5 g 28.5 g 2.1 g 5.1 g 5.9 g

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25 Okra in cream sauce

1 Top and tail the okra.


2 Blanch in lightly salted boiling water, or steam;
drain.
3 Sweat in the margarine or butter for 5–10 minutes,
or until tender.
4 Carefully add the cream sauce.
5 Bring to the boil, correct the seasoning and serve
in a suitable dish.
Okra may also be served brushed with butter or
sprinkled with chopped parsley.

Professional tip
Okra can become glutinous (slimy) when it is cooked in
a sauce. To avoid this, wash the okra and let them dry
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions before cooking.
Okra (‘ladies’ fingers’) 400 g 1.25 kg
Butter or margarine 50 g 125 g
Healthy eating tips
Cream sauce 250 ml 625 ml
l Use a little unsaturated oil to sweat the okra.
l Try using half cream sauce and half yoghurt, adding
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre very little salt.
928 kJ 221 kcal 20.2 g 9.8 g 5.7 g 5.7 g 4.4 g 3.2 g

Using hard margarine.

26 Okra curry 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Okra, small 450 g 1.15 kg
Vegetable oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Cumin seeds 2 tsp 5 tsp
Onions, finely chopped 110 g 275 g
Mild curry paste 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Tomatoes, medium, skinned, 3 8
deseeded, finely chopped
Fresh coriander, chopped 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Red pepper, diced ½ 1¼
Green pepper, diced ½ 1¼
Fresh red chillies, finely sliced 2 5
Brown sugar 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
Salt, to taste
722 kJ 173 kcal 10.4 g 1.1 g 16.3 g 14.3 g 5.3 g 8.2 g 0.3 g

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1 Very carefully and lightly wash the okra. Pat dry 5 While stir-frying, trim the okra to remove the tops
and leave intact. and tails.
2 Heat the oil in a wok or frying pan to a 6 Add the trimmed okra to the other ingredients and
medium heat, add the cumin seeds and fry for gently stir-fry until cooked through (approximately
30 seconds. 3–4 minutes).
3 Add the onion and curry paste and stir-fry for 7 Season and serve.
5 minutes.
4 Add the tomato, coriander, peppers, chillies and
sugar, and continue to stir-fry for 5 minutes.

Tubers

27 Plain boiled potatoes (pommes nature)

1 Wash, peel and rewash the potatoes.


2 Cut or turn into even-sized pieces, allowing
2–3 pieces per portion.
3 Cook carefully in lightly salted water for
approximately 20 minutes.
4 Drain well and serve.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
487 kJ 116 kcal 0.1 g 0.0 g 28.6 g 0.6 g 2.0 g 1.5 g

Using old potatoes.

28 Parsley potatoes (pommes persillées)

1 Wash, peel and rewash the potatoes.


2 Cut or turn into even-sized pieces, allowing
2–3 pieces per portion.
3 Cook carefully in lightly salted water for
approximately 20 minutes.
4 Drain well. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle
with chopped parsley.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
798 kJ 190 kcal 8.3 g 5.2 g 28.6 g 0.6 g 2.1 g 1.5 g

Using old potatoes and 10 g butter per portion.

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29 New potatoes (pommes nouvelles)

Method 1 Method 2
1 Wash the potatoes, and boil or steam in their 1 Scrape the potatoes and wash well.
jackets until cooked. 2 Place in a pan of lightly salted boiling water with a
2 Cool slightly, peel while warm and place in a pan bunch of mint and boil gently until cooked (about
of cold water. 20 minutes). Serve as above.
3 When required for service add a little salt and Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
383 kJ 91 kcal 0.1 g 0.0 g 22.0 g 0.8 g 1.9 g 2.4 g
a bunch of mint to the potatoes; heat through
slowly.
4 Drain well; serve brushed with melted butter and Note
sprinkled with chopped mint, or decorate with
The starch cells of new potatoes are immature; to help
blanched, refreshed mint leaves. break down these cells new potatoes are cooked in
water that is already boiling. This also helps to preserve
vitamin C (ascorbic acid) in the potatoes.

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30 Mashed potatoes (pommes purées)

7 Gradually add warm milk, stirring continuously


until a smooth creamy consistency is reached.
8 Correct the seasoning and serve.

Professional tip
Drain the potatoes as soon as they are cooked. If they
are left standing in water, they will become too wet and
spoil the texture of the dish.

Healthy eating tips


l Add a minimum amount of salt.
l Add a little olive oil in place of the butter, and use
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions semi-skimmed milk.
Floury potatoes 0.5 kg 1.25 kg
Butter 25 g 60 g
Variation
Milk, warm 30 ml 85 ml
Try:
l dressing in a serving dish and surrounding with a
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
763 kJ 182 kcal 7.1 g 4.4 g 29.0 g 1.1 g 2.4 g 1.5 g cordon of fresh cream
l placing in a serving dish, sprinkling with grated
Using old potatoes, butter and whole milk.
cheese and melted butter, and browning under a
1 Wash, peel and rewash the potatoes. Cut to an salamander
even size. l adding 50 g diced cooked lean ham, 25 g diced red
pepper and chopped parsley
2 Cook in lightly salted water, or steam. l adding lightly sweated chopped spring onions
3 Drain off the water, cover and return to a low heat l using a good-quality olive oil in place of butter
to dry out the potatoes. l adding a little garlic juice (use a garlic press)
l adding a little fresh chopped rosemary or chives
4 Pass through a medium sieve or a ricer. l mixing with equal quantities of parsnip
5 Return the potatoes to a clean pan. l adding a little freshly grated horseradish or
horseradish cream.
6 Add the butter and mix in with a wooden spoon.

Pass the cooked potato through a sieve Add milk to the potatoes and combine

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31 Duchess potatoes

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Floury potatoes 600 g 1.5 kg
Egg yolks 1 3
Butter 25 g 60 g
Salt, pepper

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


819 kJ 195 kcal 8.2 g 3.3 g 28.6 g 0.6 g 3.5 g 1.5 g

Using old potatoes, whole milk, hard margarine.

1 Wash, peel and rewash the potatoes. Cut to an 8 Place in a piping bag with a large star tube and
even size. pipe out into neat spirals, about 2 cm in diameter
2 Cook in lightly salted water. and 5 cm tall, on to a lightly greased baking sheet.
3 Drain off the water, cover and return to a low heat 9 Place in a hot oven at 230 °C for 2–3 minutes in
to dry out the potatoes. order to firm the edges slightly.
4 Pass through a medium sieve or a special potato 10 Remove from the oven and brush with egg wash.
ricer or mouli. 11 Brown lightly in a hot oven or under the salamander.
5 Place the potatoes in a clean pan.
Note
6 Add the egg yolks and stir in vigorously with a
kitchen spoon. At step 3, it is important to return the drained potatoes
to the heat, so that they are as dry as possible.
7 Mix in the butter. Correct the seasoning.

Add egg yolks to the mashed potato Pipe the potato into neat spirals, ready for baking

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32 Steamed potatoes in their jackets (pommes vapeur) 

1 Wash the potatoes well.


2 Place the potatoes into a steamer tray, sprinkle
with salt and steam until tender.
3 When steaming new potatoes, add some sprigs
of mint.
4 Drain before serving or peeling for sauté.

Professional tip
l Choose the most suitable varieties for steaming:
Saxon, Nadine, Estima, Maris Piper or Desiree.
Steaming retains more flavour than boiling.
l Always choose evenly sized potatoes so that they will
cook in the same amount of time.
l If the potato is going to be cooked further, e.g. sauté,
it is best to leave the skin on during steaming. The skin
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
will protect the flesh of the potato from the steam.
424 kJ 150 kcal 0.3 g 0.0 g 23.1 g 0.8 g 2.7 g 2.3 g 0.1 g

33 Baked jacket potatoes (pommes au four) 

1 Select good-sized potatoes; allow 1 potato per


portion.
2 Scrub well and make a 2 mm-deep incision round
the potato.
3 Place the potato, on a small mound of ground
(sea) salt to help keep the base dry, on a tray in a
hot oven at 230–250 °C for about 1 hour. Turn the
potatoes over after 30 minutes.
4 Test by holding the potato in a cloth and
squeezing gently; if cooked it should feel soft.

Healthy eating tips


l Potatoes can be baked without sea salt.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l Fillings based on vegetables with little or no cheese or
401 kJ 94 kcal 0.2 g 0.0 g 21.8 g 0.9 g 2.7 g 1.6 g
meat make a healthy snack meal.
Using medium potato, 180 g analysis given per potato.

Professional tip Variation


Lightly scoring the potatoes will help to make sure that Split and filled with any of the following: grated cheese,
they cook evenly. minced beef or chicken, baked beans, chilli con
The potatoes can also be microwaved. Prick the skins carne, cream cheese and chives, mushrooms, bacon,
first. Cook on full power for 5 minutes per potato. Wrap ratatouille, prawns in mayonnaise, coleslaw, and so on.
in foil and leave to rest for 3 minutes. The cooked potatoes can also be cut in halves lengthwise,
the potato spooned out from the skins, seasoned,
mashed with butter, returned to the skins, sprinkled with
grated cheese and reheated in an oven or under the grill.

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34 Roast potatoes (pommes rôties) 

1 Wash, peel and rewash the potatoes.


2 Cut into even-sized pieces (allow 3–4 pieces per
portion).
3 Heat a good measure of oil or dripping in a
roasting tray.
4 Add the well-dried potatoes and lightly brown on
all sides.
5 Season lightly with salt and cook for about 1 hour
in a hot oven at 230–250 °C.
6 Turn the potatoes over after 30 minutes.
7 Cook to a golden brown. Drain and serve.

Professional tip
Roast potatoes can be parboiled for 10 minutes, refreshed
and well dried before roasting. This will cut down on the
cooking time and can also give a crisper potato.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


956 kJ 228 kcal 7.0 g 1.1 g 39.6 g 0.9 g 4.1 g 1.5 g Healthy eating tips
l Brush the potatoes with peanut or sunflower oil, with
Using old potatoes and peanut oil for 1 portion (125 g raw potato).
only a little in the roasting tray.
l Drain off all the fat when cooked.

35 Chateau potatoes

1 Select small, even-sized potatoes and wash them.


2 Turn the potatoes into barrel-shaped pieces about
the same size as fondant potatoes (recipe 43).
3 Place in a saucepan of boiling water for
2–3 minutes, then refresh immediately. Drain in a
colander.
4 Finish as for roast potatoes. Use a non-stick tray,
lightly oiled greaseproof paper or non-stick mat
for the roasting.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
839 kJ 200 kcal 5.9 g 0.7 g 34.4 g 1.2 g 4.2 g 3.5 g 0.0 g

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36 Fried or chipped potatoes

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,541 kJ 367 kcal 15.8 g 2.8 g 54.1 g 0.0 g 5.5 g 1.5 g Note
Using old potatoes and peanut oil.
Because chips are so popular, the following advice from
1 Prepare and wash the potatoes. the Potato Marketing Board is useful.
l Cook chips in small quantities; this will allow the oil to
2 Cut into slices 1 cm thick and 5 cm long.
regain its temperature more quickly; chips will then
3 Cut the slices into strips 5 × 1 × 1 cm. cook faster and absorb less fat.
4 Wash well and dry in a cloth. l Do not let the temperature of the oil exceed 199 °C as
this will accelerate the fat breakdown.
5 Cook in a frying basket without colour in l Use oils high in polyunsaturates for a healthier chip.
moderately hot oil (165 °C). l Ideally use a separate fryer for chips and ensure that it
has the capacity to raise the fat temperature rapidly to
6 Drain and place on kitchen paper on trays until
the correct degree when frying chilled or frozen chips.
required. l Although the majority of chipped potatoes are
7 When required, place in a frying basket and cook purchased frozen, the Potato Marketing Board
in hot oil (185 °C) until crisp and golden. recommends the following potatoes for those who
prefer to make their own chips: Maris Piper, Cara and
8 Drain well, season lightly with salt and serve. Desiree. King Edward and Santé are also good choices.

Healthy eating tips


l Chipped potatoes may be blanched twice, first at
140 °C, followed by a re-blanch at 160 °C until lightly
coloured.
l Blanch in a steamer until just cooked, drain and dry
well – final temperature 165 °C.

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37 Sauté potatoes

1 Select medium even-sized potatoes. Scrub well.


2 Plain boil or cook in the steamer. Cool slightly
and peel.
3 Cut into 3 mm slices.
4 Toss in hot shallow oil in a frying pan until lightly
coloured; season lightly with salt.
5 Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.
Maris piper or Cara potatoes are good varieties for
this dish.

Healthy eating tips


Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l Use a little hot sunflower oil to fry the potatoes.
1,249 kJ 297 kcal 11.4 g 1.3 g 46.8 g 0.4 g 4.9 g 1.7 g
l Add little or no salt; the customer can add more if
Using old potatoes and sunflower oil. required.

Cut the potatoes into 3 mm slices Toss the slices in hot oil to cook (sauté)

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38 Sauté potatoes with onions (pommes lyonnaise)

Allow 0.25 kg onion to 0.5 kg potatoes.


1 Shallow-fry the onions slowly in 25–50 g oil,
turning frequently, until tender and nicely
browned; season lightly with salt.
2 Prepare sauté potatoes as for recipe 37.
3 Combine the two and toss together.
4 Serve as for sauté potatoes.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,098 kJ 261 kcal 9.4 g 1.1 g 41.5 g 6.4 g 5.4 g 5.3 g 0.3 g

Finely slice the onions Sauté the potatoes and onions together

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39 New potato rissoles (pommes nouvelles rissolées) 

1 Boil or steam new potatoes, then drain them.


2 Fry to a golden brown in oil or butter, or a
combination of both.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
610 kJ 145 kcal 6.1 g 1.1 g 22.0 g 0.8 g 1.9 g 2.4 g

40 Parmentier potatoes 

0.5 kg will yield 2–3 portions.


1 Select medium to large potatoes.
2 Wash, peel and rewash.
3 Trim on three sides and cut into 1 cm slices.
4 Cut the slices into 1 cm strips.
5 Cut the strips into 1 cm dice.
6 Wash well and dry in a cloth.
7 Cook in hot shallow oil in a frying pan until golden
brown.
8 Drain, season lightly and serve sprinkled with
chopped parsley (optional).

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,819 kJ 433 kcal 33.5 g 6.3 g 32.8 g 0.7 g 2.3 g 1.7 g

Using peanut oil.

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41 Noisette potatoes (pommes noisettes)

0.5 kg will yield two portions.


1 Wash, peel and rewash the potatoes.
2 Scoop out balls with a noisette spoon. Blanch the
balls in boiling water.
3 Cook in a little oil in a sauté pan or frying pan.
Colour on top of the stove and finish cooking in
the oven at 230–250 °C.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
993 kJ 236 kcal 6.3 g 0.7 g 42.0 g 1.5 g 5.1 g 3.4 g 0.0 g

Using 1 tbsp of vegetable oil.

42 Cocotte potatoes (pommes cocotte) 

1 Proceed as for chateau potatoes (recipe 35), but


with the potatoes a quarter the size.
2 Cook in a sauté pan or frying pan.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
839 kJ 200 kcal 5.9 g 0.7 g 34.4 g 1.2 g 4.2 g 3.5 g 0.0 g

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43 Fondant potatoes

1 Select small or even-sized medium potatoes.


2 Wash, peel and rewash.
3 Turn into 8-sided barrel shapes, allowing 2–3 per
portion, about 5 cm long, end diameter 1.5 cm,
centre diameter 2.5 cm.
4 Brush with melted butter or oil.
5 Place in a pan suitable for the oven.
6 Half cover with white stock, season lightly with
salt and pepper.
7 Cook in a hot oven at 230–250 °C, brushing the
potatoes frequently with melted butter or oil.
8 When cooked, the stock should be completely
absorbed by the potatoes.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
956 kJ 228 kcal 7.0 g 2.1 g 39.6 g 0.9 g 4.1 g 1.5 g 9 Brush with melted butter or oil and serve.
Using old potatoes and hard margarine for 1 portion (125 g raw
potato). Variation
Fondant potatoes can be lightly sprinkled with:
Professional tip l thyme, rosemary or oregano (or this can be added to
To give the potatoes a good glaze, use a high-quality the stock)
stock and baste during cooking. l grated cheese (Gruyère and Parmesan or Cheddar)
l chicken stock in place of white stock.

Video: making
fondant Healthy eating tips
potatoes l Use a little unsaturated oil to brush over the potatoes
http://bit.ly/ before and after cooking.
1ASKJEX l No added salt is needed; rely on the stock for flavour.

Turn the potatoes into barrel shapes Place in a pan, half covered with stock, to cook

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44 Savoury potatoes (pommes boulangères) 

1 Cut the potatoes into 2 mm slices on a mandolin.


Set aside the best slices to use for the top.
2 Peel, halve and finely slice the onions.
3 Mix the onions and potatoes together and season
lightly with salt and pepper.
4 Place in a well-buttered shallow earthenware dish
or roasting tin.
5 Barely cover with stock.
6 Neatly arrange overlapping slices of potato on top.
7 Brush lightly with oil.
8 Place in a hot oven at 230–250 °C for 20 minutes
until lightly coloured.
9 Reduce the heat and allow to cook steadily,
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
595 kJ 142 kcal 5.3 g 2.2 g 22.3 g 1.8 g 2.8 g 2.4 g
pressing down firmly from time to time with a flat-
Using 25 g hard margarine (using 50 g hard margarine: bottomed pan.
787 kJ/187 kcal energy, 10.3 g fat, 4.4 g saturated fat, 10 All of the stock should be cooked into the potato
22.3 g carbohydrates, 1.8 g sugar, 2.8 g protein and 2.4 g fibre).
when it is ready. Allow approximately 1½ hours
cooking time in all.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
11 Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley. If cooked
Potatoes 400 g 1 kg
in an earthenware dish, clean the edges of the
Onions 100 g 250 g
dish with a cloth dipped in salt, and serve in
Salt, pepper the dish.
White stock 125 ml 310 ml
Butter or oil 25–50 g 60–125 g Variation
Parsley, chopped This potato dish can be cooked under a joint of lamb
(shoulder or leg). Place an oven rack with the meat on
above the potatoes for the final 1½ hours of cooking.
The juices from the meat will baste the potatoes as it
Healthy eating tips
cooks, then serve the lamb on top of the potato if the
l Use an unsaturated oil.
style of the restaurant dictates.
l Add the minimum amount of salt; the stock provides
flavour. Leeks can be used in place of onions for variety.
l This dish can be used to accompany fattier meat
dishes and will help to dilute the fat.

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45 Macaire potatoes (potato cakes, 


pommes Macaire)

0.5 kg will yield 2–3 portions.


1 Prepare and cook as for baked jacket potatoes
(recipe 33).
2 Cut in halves, remove the centre with a spoon,
and place in a basin.
3 Add 25 g butter per 0.5 kg, a little salt and
milled pepper.
4 Mash and mix as lightly as possible with a fork.
5 Using a little flour, mould into a roll, then divide
into pieces, allowing one or two per portion.
6 Mould into 2 cm round cakes. Quadrille with the
back of a palette knife. Flour lightly.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre 7 Shallow-fry on both sides in very hot oil and
4,392 kJ 1,047 kcal 65.7 g 14.7 g 109.8 g 2.7 g 11.4 g 10.8 g serve.
Using hard margarine and sunflower oil.

Variation
Professional tip Additions to potato cakes can include:
Make sure the potato mixture is firm enough to be l chopped parsley, fresh herbs or chives, or duxelle
shaped, and fry the cakes in very hot oil, or they will lose l cooked chopped onion
their shape. l grated cheese.

Place the potatoes on a baking tray with salt Once baked, cut in half and scoop out Mould the potato into cakes
the centre

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46 Byron potatoes (pommes Byron)

1 Prepare and cook as for Macaire potatoes


(recipe 45).
2 Using the back of a dessertspoon make a shallow
impression on each potato.
3 Carefully sprinkle the centres with grated cheese.
Make sure no cheese is on the edge of the potato.
4 Cover the cheese with cream.
5 Brown lightly under the salamander and serve.

Note
This is a classical variation on Macaire potatoes.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


2,099 kJ 505 kcal 39.0 g 18.7 g 33.4 g 1.8 g 7.1 g 2.4 g

Analysis given per potato, using 1 tbsp each of cheese and


double cream per person.

47 Swiss potato cakes (rösti) 

1 Parboil in salted water (or steam) for


approximately 5 minutes.
2 Cool, then shred into large flakes on a grater.
3 Heat the oil or butter in a frying pan.
4 Add the potatoes, and season lightly with salt and
pepper.
5 Press the potato together and cook on both sides
until brown and crisp.

Note
The potato can be made in a 4-portion cake or into
individual rounds.

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Potatoes, unpeeled 400 g 1 kg Healthy eating tips
l Lightly oil a well-seasoned pan with sunflower oil to
Oil or butter 50 g 125 g fry the rösti.
Salt, pepper l Use the minimum amount of salt.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


700 kJ 168 kcal 10.5 g 6.5 g 17.3 g 0.7 g 2.2 g 1.3 g Variation
l The potato cakes may also be made from raw potatoes.
Using butter. l Add sweated chopped onion.
l Add sweated lardons of bacon.
l Use two parts of grated potato to one part grated apple.

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Shred the parboiled potatoes on a grater Press into shape in the frying pan Turn out carefully after cooking

48 Croquette potatoes

1 Use a duchess mixture (see recipe 31) moulded


into cylinder shapes 5 × 2 cm.
2 Pass through flour, egg wash and breadcrumbs.
Chill.
3 Reshape with a palette knife and chill. Deep fry in
hot deep oil (185 °C) in a frying basket.
4 When the potatoes are a golden colour, drain well
and serve.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,699 kJ 405 kcal 25.4 g 6.6 g 40.8 g 1.1 g 6.0 g 2.2 g

Healthy eating tips


l Add the minimum amount of salt.
l Use peanut or sunflower oil to fry the croquettes, and
drain on kitchen paper.

49 Potatoes cooked in milk with cheese 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Potatoes 500 g 1.25 kg
Milk 250 ml 625 ml
Salt and pepper
Grated cheese 50 g 125 g

1 Slice the peeled potatoes to 0.5 cm thick.


2 Place in an ovenproof dish and just cover with milk.
3 Season, sprinkle with grated cheese and cook in
a moderate oven (190 °C) until the potatoes are
cooked and golden brown.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
734 kJ 174 kcal 5.6 g 3.4 g 24.0 g 3.7 g 8.0 g 1.8 g 0.4 g

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50 Potatoes with bacon and onions

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Cut the potatoes into 1 cm dice.


Potatoes, peeled 400 g 1.25 kg 2 Cut the bacon into 0.5 cm lardons; lightly fry in a
little fat together with the onions and brown lightly.
Streaky bacon (lardons) 100 g 250 g
Button onions 100 g 250 g
3 Add the potatoes, half cover with stock, season
lightly with salt and pepper. Cover with a lid
White stock 250 ml 625 ml
and cook steadily in the oven at 230–250 °C for
Salt, pepper approximately 30 minutes.
Parsley, chopped 4 Correct the seasoning, serve in a vegetable dish,
sprinkled with chopped parsley.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
836 kJ 199 kcal 10.1 g 3.8 g 22.2 g 1.8 g 6.4 g 2.5 g
Healthy eating tips
Using old potatoes.
l Dry-fry the bacon in a well-seasoned pan and drain
off any excess fat.
l Add little or no salt.

51 Delmonico potatoes

1 Wash, peel and rewash the potatoes.


2 Cut into 6 mm dice.
3 Barely cover with milk, season lightly with salt and
pepper and allow to cook for 30–40 minutes.
4 Place in an earthenware dish, sprinkle with
breadcrumbs and melted butter, brown in the
oven or under the salamander and serve.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
900 kJ 214 kcal 6.3 g 3.7 g 37.5 g 2.7 g 4.4 g 2.0 g

Using old potatoes and whole milk.

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Dice the potatoes Place in a dish, barely covered with milk, After baking, sprinkle with breadcrumbs
to cook and gratinate

52 Jerusalem artichokes in cream sauce 


(topinambours à la crème)

1 Wash and peel the artichokes, then rewash. Cut


to an even size.
2 Barely cover with water, add a little salt and
simmer until tender; do not overcook.
3 Drain well and add 250 ml (600 ml for 10 portions)
cream sauce (see page 84).

Note
Cream sauce may be made using skimmed milk and
natural yoghurt.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Healthy eating tips
641 kJ 141 kcal 5.6 g 2.1 g 21.4 g 5.1 g 4.9 g 7.1 g 0.5 g l Use the minimum amount of salt.
l Try replacing half the cream sauce with natural yoghurt.

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Leafy vegetables

53 Spring greens (choux de printemps)

0.5 kg will serve 3–4 portions; 1.25 kg will serve 8–10


portions.
Prepare and cook as for cabbage (recipe 56), for
10–15 minutes according to age and type. Do not
overcook.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
103 kJ 25 kcal 0.9 g 0.1 g 2.0 g 1.8 g 2.4 g 4.3 g 0.1 g

54 Leaf spinach (épinards en branches)

0.5 kg will yield two portions.


1 Remove the stems and discard them.
2 Wash the leaves carefully in plenty of water,
several times if necessary.
3 Cook in lightly salted boiling water for
3–5 minutes; do not overcook.
4 Refresh under cold water, squeeze dry into a ball.
5 When required for service, either reheat and
serve plain or place into a pan containing 25–50 g
butter, loosen with a fork and reheat quickly
without colouring.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


512 kJ 123 kcal 10.8 g 6.6 g 1.4 g 1.2 g 5.2 g 6.3 g

Using 25 g butter per 0.5 kg.

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55 Spinach purée

Variation
Creamed spinach purée can be made by mixing in 30 ml
cream and 60 ml béchamel or natural yoghurt before
serving. Serve with a border of cream.
An addition would be 1 cm triangle-shaped croutons
fried in butter.
Spinach may also be served with toasted pine kernels or
finely chopped garlic.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


588 kJ 143 kcal 11.9 g 6.7 g 3.3 g 3.1 g 5.7 g 4.2 g

Using 25 g butter per 0.5 kg.

0.5 kg will yield 2 portions. 4 Place on a tray and allow to cool.


1 Remove the stems and discard them. 5 Pass through a sieve or mouli, or use a food
2 Wash the leaves very carefully in plenty of water, processor.
several times if necessary. 6 Reheat in 25–50 g butter, mix with a kitchen
3 Wilt for 2–3 minutes, taking care not to overcook. spoon, correct the seasoning and serve.

56 Cabbage (chou vert)

0.5 kg will serve 3–4 portions; 1.25 kg will serve 8–10


portions.
1 Cut the cabbage in quarters.
2 Remove the centre stalk and outside leaves.
3 Shred and wash well.
4 Place into lightly salted boiling water.
5 Boil steadily or steam until cooked (approximately
5–10 minutes, according to age and type). Do not
overcook.
6 Drain immediately in a colander and serve.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Note
38 kJ 9 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 1.1 g 1.1 g 1.3 g 2.5 g
Overcooking will lessen the vitamin content and
also spoil the colour. This applies to cooking any
green vegetable.

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57 Braised red cabbage (choux à la flamande) 

1 Quarter, trim and shred the cabbage. Wash well


and drain.
2 Season lightly with salt and pepper.
3 Place in a well-buttered casserole or pan suitable
for placing in the oven (not aluminium or iron,
because these metals will cause a chemical
reaction that will discolour the cabbage).
4 Add the peeled and cored apples. Cut into 1 cm
dice and sugar.
5 Add the vinegar and bacon (if using), cover with a
buttered paper and lid.
6 Cook in a moderate oven at 150–200 °C for
1½ hours.
7 Remove the bacon (if used) and serve.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
754 kJ 180 kcal 15.2 g 8.4 g 7.8 g 7.7 g 3.4 g 3.2 g

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Red cabbage 300 g 750 g
Salt, pepper
Butter 50 g 125 g
Cooking apples, peeled and cored 100 g 250 g
Caster sugar 10 g 25 g
Vinegar or red wine 125 ml 310 ml
Bacon trimmings (optional) 50 g 125 g

Variation Strain off most of the liquid after braising

Other flavourings include 50 g sultanas, grated zest of


one orange, pinch of ground cinnamon.

Healthy eating tips


The fat and salt content will be reduced by omitting the
bacon.

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58 Brussels sprouts (choux de bruxelles)

0.5 kg will serve 3–4 portions; 1.25 kg will serve 8–10


portions.
1 Using a small knife, trim the stems; remove any
discoloured outer leaves. Wash well.
2 Cook in lightly salted boiling water, or steam, for
5–10 minutes according to size. Do not overcook.
3 Drain well in a colander and serve.

Note
Brussels sprouts with butter are cooked and served as
outlined here, but brushed with 25–50 g melted butter
(60–125 g for 10 portions). For Brussels sprouts with
chestnuts, to every 400 g of sprouts add 100 g cooked
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre peeled chestnuts.
82 kJ 20 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 1.9 g 1.8 g 3.1 g 3.2 g

Stems

59 Artichoke bottoms

1 Cut off the stalk and pull out all the underneath
leaves.
2 With a large knife, cut through the artichoke
leaving only 1.5 cm at the bottom of the vegetable.
3 With a small, sharp knife, while holding the artichoke
upside down, peel carefully, removing all the leaf
and any green part, keeping the bottom as smooth
as possible. If necessary, smooth with a peeler.
4 Rub immediately with lemon and keep in lemon
water or ascorbic acid solution.
5 Using a spoon or the thumb, remove the centre
furry part, which is called the choke. The choke is
sometimes removed after cooking.
6 Artichoke bottoms should always be cooked in a
blanc (see below).
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
100 kJ 23 kcal 0.2 g 0.1 g 4.2 g 1.2 g 2.5 g 0.9 g 0.1 g

Using blanc version 1.

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Pull out the stalk of the artichoke Alternatively, cut the stalk off Pull off the leaves at the bottom

Peel the artichoke Remove the choke

Note
Artichoke bases may be served as a vegetable; they
are sometimes filled with another vegetable (e.g. peas,
spinach). When they are served ungarnished they are
usually cut into quarters.

Blanc (version 1) Blanc (version 2)


Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Flour 10 g 25 g Water 0.5 litres 1.25 litres
Cold water 0.5 litres 1.25 litre Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) tablets 2 5
Salt, to taste Oil 30 ml 75 ml
Lemon, juice of ½ 1¼ Salt

1 Mix the flour and water together. 1 Combine the ingredients.


2 Add the salt and lemon juice. Pass through a
strainer. Healthy eating tips
l Use the minimum amount of salt.
3 Place in a pan, bring to the boil, stirring continuously.

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60 Globe artichokes

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


7 Refresh under running water until cold.
32 kJ 8 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 1.4 g 1.4 g 0.6 g 0.0 g

Not including sauce. 8 Remove the centre of the artichoke carefully.


9 Scrape away all the furry inside (the choke) and
Allow 1 artichoke per portion. leave clean.
1 Cut off the stems close to the leaves. 10 Replace the centre, upside down.
2 Cut off about 2 cm across the tops of the leaves. 11 Reheat by placing in a pan of boiling salted water
3 Trim the remainder of the leaves with scissors or a for 3–4 minutes.
small knife. 12 Drain and serve accompanied by a suitable
4 Place a slice of lemon at the bottom of each sauce.
artichoke. Artichokes may also be served cold with vinaigrette
sauce.
5 Secure with string.
6 Simmer in gently boiling, lightly salted water Professional tip
(to which a little ascorbic acid – one vitamin C Do not cook artichokes in an iron or aluminium pan
tablet – may be added) until the bottom is tender because these metals cause a chemical reaction that
(20–30 minutes). will discolour them.

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61 Asparagus points or tips

Note
Young thin asparagus, 50 pieces to the bundle, is known
as sprew or sprue. It is prepared in the same way as
asparagus except that, when it is very thin, the removal
of the leaf tips is dispensed with. It may be served as a
vegetable, perhaps brushed with butter.
Asparagus tips are also used in numerous garnishes for
soups, egg dishes, fish, meat and poultry dishes, cold
dishes, salad, and so on.

Professional tip
As the flavour of asparagus is mild and can be leached
out very easily through the cooking medium, a method
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium of cookery that ensures that no flavour is lost in the
124 kJ 29 kcal 0.9 g 0.1 g 1.6 g 1.6 g 3.5 g 1.6 g 0.1 g cooking process is microwaving.
1 To microwave, place a piece of cling film over a plate
1 kg of asparagus will yield approximately 8 portions. that will fit in the microwave and, more importantly, is
microwave safe.
1 Using the back of a small knife, carefully remove
2 Spread the cling film with a little oil and salt, evenly
the tips of the leaves. place the asparagus on the plate in a single layer.
2 Scrape the stem, either with the blade of a small 3 Cover the plate and asparagus with another piece of
knife or a peeler. cling film, and microwave for 30-second stints until
the asparagus is tender; serve immediately.
3 Wash well. Tie into bundles of about 12 heads.
The benefit of this method is that it retains flavour and
4 Cut off the excess stem. colour, and it can be cooked in minutes, as opposed to
5 Cook in lightly salted boiling water for batch cooking, which will, invariably, cause the asparagus
approximately 5–8 minutes. to lose flavour and colour the longer it is stored.

6 Test if cooked by gently pressing the green part If larger-scale cooking is required, the more traditional
of the stem, which should be tender; do not method, boiling in lightly salted water, should be
used: cooking, say, 100 portions of asparagus in the
overcook.
microwave should be avoided for obvious reasons!
7 Lift carefully out of the water. Remove the string,
drain well and serve.

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62 Asparagus wrapped in puff pastry with Gruyère 

1 Cut the Gruyère cheese into 1 cm dice. In a


suitable bowl, mix the Parmesan cheese and
crème fraiche; season.
2 Roll out the puff pastry to approximately 0.25 cm
thick and cut into squares approximately 18 × 18 cm.
3 Brush the edges with egg wash or milk.
4 Divide the crème fraiche, putting equal amounts
on to the centre of each square. Lay the
asparagus on top. Place the diced Gruyère
cheese firmly between the asparagus.
5 Fold the opposite corners of each square to meet
in the centre, like an envelope. Firmly pinch the
seams together to seal them. Make a small hole
in the centre of each one to allow the steam to
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
escape. Place on a lightly greased baking sheet.
Gruyère cheese 175 g 440 g
6 Allow to relax for 20 minutes in the refrigerator.
Parmesan, freshly grated 3 tbsp 7½ tbsp Brush with egg wash or milk, sprinkle with
Crème fraiche 250 ml 625 ml Parmesan.
Puff pastry (page 465) 350 g 875 g 7 Bake in a hot oven at 200 °C for approximately
Egg wash or milk, for brushing 20–25 minutes until golden brown.
Asparagus, freshly cooked 350 g 875 g 8 Serve garnished with watercress.
Salt, pepper
Professional tip
Watercress, to garnish
Make sure the pastry parcels are well sealed so that the
mixture does not escape during cooking.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
2,017 kJ 485 kcal 37.7 g 15.0 g 23.4 g 2.5 g 15.9 g 0.8 g

Healthy eating tips


The puff pastry and cheese make this dish high in fat.
Serve with plenty of starchy carbohydrate to dilute it.

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63 Braised chicory 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Fish or chicken stock 200 ml 500 ml
Chicory, medium heads 8 20
Fresh lemon juice 3 tbsp 7½ tbsp
Caster sugar 3 tbsp 7½ tbsp
Sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper
Butter 25 g 60 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


476 kJ 114 kcal 6.3 g 3.7 g 17.8 g 13.5 g 1.1 g 1.8 g

1 Have the stock ready and set aside. 4 Drain all the liquid from the chicory and, in a large
2 Trim the chicory of any bruised outside leaves, frying pan, heat the butter and brown the chicory
then trim the ends and use a small, sharp knife to on all sides; deglaze with a little stock and simmer
remove the bitter core at the base of each head. for a few minutes, basting the chicory at all times.
3 Bring a pan of water to the boil and add the 5 Arrange the heads in a single layer on a platter,
lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the sugar and salt sprinkle with the remaining sugar, and season
to taste. Blanch the chicory for 8–10 minutes and with salt and pepper. Leave to cool for about
drain well. 10 minutes.

64 Shallow-fried chicory 

Ingredient
Lemon juice
Sugar 1 tbsp
Salt
Chicory
Butter
Stock
Nut-brown butter, lemon juice and chopped parsley,
to serve

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


484 kJ 118 kcal 12.0 g 7.3 g 4.8 g 1.3 g 0.9 g 1.5 g

Using 37.5 g butter.

1 Trim the stem, remove any discoloured leaves, wash. 3 Drain all the liquid from the chicory. In a large
2 Bring a pan of water to the boil and add the frying pan, heat the butter and brown the chicory
lemon juice, sugar, and salt to taste. Blanch the on all sides. Deglaze with a little stock and simmer
chicory in this for 8–10 minutes and drain well. for a few minutes, basting the chicory at all times.
4 Serve with 10 g per portion nut-brown butter,
lemon juice and chopped parsley.
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65 Kohlrabi

1 Trim off the stems and leaves – these may be


used for soups.
2 Peel thickly at the root end and thinly at the top
end. Wash.
3 Cut into even-sized pieces. Young kohlrabi can be
cooked whole.
4 Simmer in well-flavoured stock until tender.

Variations
l Serve kohlrabi with cream sauce.
l Kohlrabi may be baked and stuffed.

Note
Kohlrabi is a stem that swells to a turnip shape above
the ground. When grown under glass it is pale green in
colour; when grown outdoors it is purplish.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
77 kJ 18 kcal 0.2 g 0.0 g 3.1 g 3.0 g 1.2 g 1.9 g Select kohlrabi with tops that are green, young and
fresh. If the globes are too large they may be woody and
tough.
It can be added to casseroles and stews.

Vegetable fruits

66 Tomato concassé

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Tomatoes 400 g 1.25 kg
Shallots or onions, chopped 25 g 60 g
Butter or oil 25 g 60 g
Salt, pepper

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
237 kJ 57 kcal 5.3 g 3.3 g 2.1 g 1.9 g 0.5 g 0.7 g 0.3 g

Using butter and onions.

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1 Plunge the tomatoes into boiling water for 5–10


Note
seconds – the riper the tomatoes, the less time is
required. Refresh immediately. This is a cooked preparation that is usually included in
the normal mise-en-place of a kitchen as it is used in a
2 Remove the skins, cut in quarters and remove all
great number of dishes.
the seeds.
Uncooked tomato concassée is often used for mise-en-
3 Roughly chop the flesh of the tomatoes. place.
4 Meanwhile, cook the chopped onion or shallots
without colour in the butter or oil.
5 Add the tomatoes and season lightly.
6 Simmer gently on the side of the stove until the
moisture is evaporated.

Blanch the tomatoes and then peel them Cut each tomato into quarters

Remove the seeds from each petal Roughly chop the tomatoes

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67 Stuffed tomatoes

1 Wash the tomatoes, remove the eyes.


2 Remove the top quarter of each tomato with a
sharp knife.
3 Carefully empty out the seeds without damaging
the flesh.
4 Place on a greased baking tray.
5 Cook the shallots in a little butter or oil without
colour.
6 Add the washed chopped mushrooms; season
with salt and pepper; add the garlic if using. Cook
for 2–3 minutes.
7 Add a little of the strained tomato juice, the
breadcrumbs and the parsley; mix to a piping
consistency. Correct the seasoning. At this stage,
several additions may be made (e.g. chopped
ham, cooked rice).
8 Place the mixture in a piping bag with a large plain
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions tube and pipe into the tomato shells. Replace
Tomatoes, medium-sized 8 20
the tops.
Duxelle 9 Brush with oil, season lightly with salt and pepper.
Shallots, chopped 10 g 25 g 10 Cook in a moderate oven at 180–200 °C for
Butter or oil 25 g 60 g 4–5 minutes.
Mushrooms 150 g 375 g 11 Serve garnished with picked parsley or fresh basil
or rosemary.
Salt, pepper
Clove of garlic, crushed (optional) 1 2–3 Healthy eating tips
Breadcrumbs (white or wholemeal) 25 g 60 g l Use a small amount of an unsaturated oil to cook the
shallots and brush over the stuffed tomatoes.
Parsley, chopped
l Add the minimum amount of salt.
l Adding cooked rice to the stuffing will increase the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre amount of starchy carbohydrate.
430 kJ 102 kcal 5.9 g 3.5 g 10.6 g 5.7 g 2.5 g 2.2 g

Cut out the eye of the tomato Slice off the top and remove the seeds Pipe in the filling and then replace the top
from inside

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68 Fried aubergine (aubergine frite) 

Allow half an aubergine per portion.


1 Remove alternate strips with a peeler.
2 Cut into 0.5 cm slices on the slant.
3 Pass through seasoned flour or milk and flour.
4 Shake off all surplus flour.
5 Deep-fry in hot fat at 185 °C. Drain well and serve.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
994 kJ 225 kcal 20.0 g 3.8 g 10.1 g 5.9 g 1.9 g 5.2 g

Note
Aubergines may also be shallow-fried, grilled or griddled.

69 Stuffed aubergine 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Aubergines 2 5
Shallots, chopped 10 g 25 g
Oil or fat, to fry
Mushrooms 100 g 250 g
Parsley, chopped
Tomato concassé 100 g 250 g
Salt, pepper
Demi-glace or jus-lié 125 ml 300 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
557 kJ 134 kcal 12.2 g 1.5 g 4.3 g 3.8 g 2.4 g 4.5 g 0.7 g

1 Cut the aubergines in two lengthwise. 6 Add the well-washed mushrooms. Cook gently for
2 With the point of a small knife, make a cut round a few minutes.
the halves approximately 0.5 cm from the edge, 7 Mix in the pulp, parsley and tomato; season.
then make several cuts 0.5 cm deep in the centre. Replace in the aubergine skins.
3 Deep fry in hot fat at 185 °C for 2–3 minutes; 8 Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and melted butter.
drain well. Brown under the salamander.
4 Scoop out the centre pulp and chop it finely. 9 Serve with a cordon of demi-glace or jus-lié.
5 Cook the shallots in a little oil or fat without
colouring.

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70 Marrow

1 Peel the marrow with a peeler or small knife.


2 Cut in half lengthwise.
3 Remove the seeds with a spoon.
4 Cut into even pieces, approximately 5 cm square.
5 Cook in lightly salted boiling water, or steam, for
10–15 minutes. Do not overcook.
6 Drain well and serve.

Variation
All the variations for cauliflower (recipes 16 and 17) may
be used with marrow.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
44 kJ 11 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 2.1 g 2.0 g 0.6 g 0.9 g

71 Marrow provençale

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Marrow 400 g 1 kg
Onion, chopped 50 g 125 g
Clove of garlic, chopped 1 2–3
Oil or butter 50 g 125 g
Salt, pepper
Tomato concassé 400 g 1 kg
Parsley, chopped

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


524 kJ 126 kcal 10.6 g 6.5 g 6.4 g 5.7 g 1.8 g 1.4 g

1 Lightly peel the marrow, remove the seeds and


Note
cut into 2 cm dice.
2 Cook the onion and garlic in the oil in a pan for Baby marrows may be served similarly, but reduce the
cooking time to 5–10 minutes.
2–3 minutes without colour.
3 Add the marrow and season lightly with salt
and pepper. Healthy eating tips
l Use a little unsaturated oil to cook the onion.
4 Add the tomato concassé.
l Use the minimum amount of salt.
5 Cover with a lid and cook gently in the oven or on
the side of the stove for 1 hour or until tender.
6 Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.

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72 Shallow-fried courgettes 

1 Wash. Top and tail, and cut into round slices


3–6 cm thick.
2 Gently fry in hot oil or butter for 2 or 3 minutes,
drain and serve.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
456 kJ 111 kcal 10.7 g 6.6 g 1.9 g 1.8 g 1.9 g 0.9 g

Using butter.

73 Deep-fried courgettes 

1 Wash. Top and tail, and cut into round slices


3–6 cm thick.
2 Pass through flour, or milk and flour, or batter, and
deep-fry in hot oil at 185 °C. Drain well and serve.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
481 kJ 111 kcal 11.4 g 1.4 g 1.8 g 1.7 g 1.8 g 0.9 g

Using vegetable oil.

Professional tip
Make sure the oil is very hot before adding the
courgette. Fry it quickly and drain it before serving.

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74 Fettuccine of courgette with chopped basil 


and balsamic vinegar

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Courgettes, large 2 5
Olive oil 50 ml 125 ml
Olive oil, to finish 20 ml 50 ml
Balsamic vinegar, to finish 20 ml 50 ml
Basil leaves, shredded 2 5

1 Slice the courgettes finely lengthwise, using a


mandolin (Japanese slicer).
2 Heat the olive oil in a suitable pan. Sauté the
courgette slices quickly without colour for
35 seconds.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
745 kJ 181 kcal 17.9 g 2.6 g 1.9 g 1.8 g 1.8 g 1.2 g 0.0 g 3 Place on suitable plates. Drizzle with olive oil
and balsamic vinegar, and top with shredded
basil leaves.
This may be served as a vegetarian starter or as a
garnish for fish and meat dishes.

75 Courgette flowers

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Flowering courgettes 4 10
Fish mousse (or other mousse, e.g. 100 g 250 g
chicken, veal)
Corn oil
Plain flour for dusting
Batter

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
810 kJ 193 kcal 6.6 g 1.2 g 27.4 g 2.2 g 7.5 g 1.5 g 0.0 g

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1 Gently break off the flowers from the courgettes, 12 Dip them into batter then place them into the fryer
ensuring they stay intact. for 1 minute until golden brown.
2 Carefully snap out and discard the stigma from 13 Drain briefly on some kitchen paper and serve.
the flowers.
3 Place the fish mousse in a bowl, season lightly
and mix.
4 Once the mousse is ready, place into a
disposable piping bag.
5 Gently open the courgette flowers a little and pipe
in the mousse until the flower is half full.
6 Twist the ends of the petals to seal in the mousse.
7 Place the filled flowers into a steamer or steaming
basket over a pan of boiling water.
8 Steam for 2–3 minutes, then carefully immerse
into a bowl of iced water to stop the cooking
process.
9 Remove from the water, pat dry and store in an
airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 hours.
10 Heat the oil for deep-frying to 180 °C.
Courgettes with flowers
11 Roll the filled courgette flowers in plain flour;
shake off the excess.

76 Roast butternut squash 

1 Peel the squash and cut it into thick, even pieces.


2 Place on a lightly oiled roasting tray and roast for
approximately 20–25 minutes in a hot oven, until
the flesh is soft and golden brown.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
342 kJ 81 kcal 4.1 g 0.5 g 10.4 g 5.6 g 1.4 g 2.5 g 0.0 g

Using 125 g of squash and 1 tsp vegetable oil per portion.

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77 Roast squash or pumpkin with cinnamon and ginger 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Peel the squash, cut it in half and remove the seeds.
Butternut squash or pumpkin 500 g 1.25 kg 2 Cut the squash into 1.5 cm dice or into small
wedges.
Butter or margarine 25 g 60 g
Olive oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
3 Place the butter into a suitable roasting pan and
heat gently. Add the olive oil, ginger and cinnamon.
Ginger, peeled and freshly chopped ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
4 Add the squash gently and stir until the squash
Ground cinnamon ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
is coated in the spice mixture. Season and add
Salt the sugar.
Caster sugar 10 g 25 g
5 Place in an oven at 200 °C until tender and
Lemon, juice of ½ 1¼ golden brown.
6 When cooked, sprinkle with lemon juice.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
519 kJ 125 kcal 11.0 g 4.2 g 6.0 g 5.3 g 1.1 g 1.7 g 0.0 g
Note
Garlic may be added to the spice mixture, and mixed
spice may be used in place of cinnamon.

Peel and halve the squash, then remove Cut the squash into even pieces Stir the squash pieces into the warm butter
the seeds and spices before roasting

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78 Stuffed peppers (piment farci) 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Red peppers, medium-sized 4 10
Carrots, sliced 50 g 125 g
Onions, sliced 50 g 125 g
Bouquet garni
White stock 0.5 litres 1.25 litres
Salt, pepper
Pilaff
Rice (long grain) 200 g 500 g
Salt, pepper
Onion, chopped 50 g 125 g
Butter 50 g 125 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,291 kJ 308 kcal 11.4 g 6.7 g 48.8 g 5.3 g 5.4 g 3.1 g

1 Place the peppers on a tray in the oven or under 6 Cook in a moderate oven at 180–200 °C for
the salamander for a few minutes, or deep-fry in 1 hour or until tender.
hot oil at 180 °C, until the skin blisters. 7 Serve garnished with picked parsley.
2 Remove the skin; carefully cut off the top and
empty out all the seeds. Healthy eating tips
l This dish is low in fat if the peppers are placed in the
3 Stuff with a well-seasoned pilaff of rice (ingredients oven or under the salamander, not deep-fried, and
as listed above), which may be varied by the the butter/oil is kept to a minimum.
addition of mushrooms, tomatoes, ham, and so on. l Add little or no salt.
l If extra vegetables are added to the rice, and a
4 Replace the top of the peppers.
vegetable stock used, this dish can be a useful
5 Place the peppers on the sliced carrot and onion vegetarian starter.
in a pan suitable for the oven; add the bouquet
garni, stock and seasoning. Cover with a buttered
paper and a lid.

Briefly heat the peppers and then peel them Cut off the top and empty out the seeds Fill the pepper and then replace the stem

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Seaweed and sea vegetables

79 Baked salmon salad with sea vegetables 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Place the salmon on a suitable tray (on parchment
paper or a non-stick tray) season with salt and
Salmon fillets 4 × 150 g 10 × 150 g
pepper, sprinkle with olive oil and squeeze
Salt and pepper
the juice of a lime on top. Cover with foil and
Olive oil, for sprinkling gently bake in a preheated oven at 200 °C for
Lime 2 5 approximately 15 minutes.
Stale bread, diced 100 g 250 g 2 Place the diced bread in a food processor
Olive oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp with the olive oil. Blitz until the bread becomes
Basil leaves, chopped 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp breadcrumbs, place on a tray and bake the
crumbs until golden brown.
Mayonnaise 4 tbsp 10 tbsp
3 Add the basil leaves to the mayonnaise; add a
Broad beans 200 g 500 g
squeeze of lime juice.
Sea kale 100 g 250 g
4 The broad beans and sea kale should be
Samphire 100 g 250 g
blanched in boiling water for 3-4 minutes. Refresh
Salad leaves, rocket in cold water and drain. Place in a bowl, sprinkle
Lime wedges 4 10 with olive oil and lime juice, and season.
5 Dress the cooked salmon on a suitable plate,
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2548 kJ 613 kcal 45.0 g 6.9 g 18.3 g 1.8 g 37.5 g 2.8 g 0.8 g
mask with the basil mayonnaise and sprinkle with
breadcrumbs.
6 Garnish with the broad beans, sea kale and
Variation samphire, finish with the salad leaves and lime
Use roasted flaked almonds as an alternative to wedges.
breadcrumbs.

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80 Japanese sea vegetable and noodle salad

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 In a large bowl, cover the arame with water and
soak for 10 minutes. Drain well.
Arame, dried 125 g 320 g
2 Place the arame back in the bowl, add the
Green cabbage, shredded 500 g 1.25 kg
cabbage, parsley, carrots, celery, chives and mix
Parsley, coarsely chopped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
well.
Carrots, cut into julienne 125 g 320 g
3 Add the cooked noodles, oil and vinegar; season
Celery, finely chopped 50 g 125 g and mix well.
Chives, chopped 50 g 125 g 4 Serve garnished with diced tofu.
Udon noodles, cooked 400 g 1 kg
Sesame oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Rice vinegar 3 tbsp 7 tbsp
Smoked tofu, 1 cm dice 75 g 180 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1138 kJ 271 kcal 9.4 g 1.3 g 39.0 g 8.3 g 10.2 g 7.5 g 0.4 g

Mixed vegetable dishes

81 Mixed vegetables (macédoine or jardinière


de légumes)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Carrots 100 g 250 g
Turnips 50 g 125 g
Salt
French beans 50 g 125 g
Peas 50 g 125 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


58 kJ 14 kcal 0.1 g 0.0 g 2.5 g 1.7 g 1.0 g 2.1 g

1 Peel and wash the carrots and turnips; cut into 3 Cook the peas and refresh.
0.5 cm dice (macédoine) or batons (jardinière); 4 Mix the vegetables and, when required, reheat in
cook separately in lightly salted water, do not hot salted water.
overcook. Refresh.
5 Drain well, serve brushed with melted butter.
2 Top and tail the beans; cut into 0.5 cm dice, cook
and refresh, do not overcook.

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82 Ratatouille

1 Trim off both ends of the marrow and aubergines.


2 Remove the skin using a peeler.
3 Cut into 3 mm slices.
4 Concassé the tomatoes (peel, remove seeds,
roughly chop).
5 Place the oil in a thick-bottomed pan and add
the onions.
6 Cover with a lid and allow to cook gently for
5–7 minutes without colour.
7 Add the garlic, marrow and aubergine slices, and
the peppers.
8 Season lightly with salt and mill pepper.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
9 Allow to cook gently for 4–5 minutes, toss
Baby marrow (courgette) 200 g 500 g
occasionally and keep covered.
Aubergines 200 g 500 g
10 Add the tomato and continue cooking for
Tomatoes 200 g 500 g
20–30 minutes or until tender.
Oil 50 ml 125 ml
11 Mix in the parsley, correct the seasoning
Onions, finely sliced 50 g 125 g and serve.
Clove of garlic, peeled and chopped 1 2 The vegetables need to be cut evenly so that they will
Red peppers, diced 50 g 125 g cook evenly; it also improves the texture of the dish.
Green peppers, diced 50 g 125 g
Healthy eating tips
Salt, pepper
l Use a little unsaturated oil to cook the onions.
Parsley, chopped 1 tsp 2–3 tsp l Use the minimum amount of salt.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


579 kJ 138 kcal 12.6 g 1.7 g 5.2 g 4.6 g 1.3 g 2.4 g

Ingredients for ratatouille Add the tomato to the vegetables during cooking (step 10)

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83 Ratatouille pancakes with a cheese sauce

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Ratatouille (recipe 82)
Pancake batter
Flour 100 g 250 g
Skimmed milk 250 ml 625 ml
Egg 1 2–3
Pinch of salt
Sunflower margarine or butter, 10 g 25 g
melted
Cheese sauce
Skimmed milk 500 ml 1.25 litres
1 Prepare and make the pancakes (one per
Sunflower oil 50 g 125 g
portion).
Flour 50 g 125 g
2 Prepare the ratatouille (see recipe 82) and cheese
Onion, studded with cloves 1 2–3
sauce (see page 85).
Parmesan, grated 25 g 60 g
3 Season with salt and cayenne pepper.
Egg yolk 1 2–3
4 Fill the pancakes with the ratatouille, roll up and
Seasoning, cayenne
place on individual plates or on a service dish.
5 Coat with the cheese sauce and sprinkle with
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
grated Parmesan. Finish by gratinating under the 2,398 kJ 571 kcal 35.8 g 6.5 g 46.1 g 19.0 g 19.6 g 6.5 g
salamander. Using margarine.

84 Roasted vegetables 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Red onions, small 1 3
Red peppers 1 3
Yellow peppers 1 3
Courgettes 2 5
Aubergines 1 3
Cloves of garlic, coarsely chopped 1–2 2–4
Olive oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Sea salt and freshly milled black
pepper
Fresh rosemary, roughly chopped
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
343 kJ 82 kcal 3.6 g 0.6 g 10.0 g 8.6 g 3.0 g 3.8 g Fresh basil, roughly chopped

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1 Peel the onions and cut into eight pieces. 5 Place in a preheated oven at 180 °C for
Cut the peppers into halves, deseed and cut approximately 15 minutes.
each into approximately 4–6 even pieces. Cut 6 Serve immediately.
the courgettes into 2 × 1 cm batons. Cut the
aubergine into 2 × 1 cm batons. Note
2 Place all the vegetables (and the garlic) into a
These vegetables may also be chilled and served with a
suitable roasting dish, sprinkle with the olive oil salad as a starter.
and balsamic vinegar.
3 Season lightly with sea salt and pepper.
Healthy eating tips
4 Sprinkle with rosemary and basil. Lightly brush the vegetables with the olive oil and add
the minimum amount of salt.

85 Tempura 

Ingredient 4 portions
Vegetable oil 500 ml
Courgettes, sliced 2
Sweet potato, scrubbed and sliced 1
Green pepper, seeds removed and cut into strips 1
Shiitake mushroom, stalks removed and halved if large 4
Onion, sliced as half moons 1
Parsley sprigs, to garnish 4
Batter
(all ingredients must be stored in the fridge until just before
mixing)
Egg yolk 1
Ice-cold sparkling water 200 ml
Plain flour, sifted 100 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


Tentsuyu dipping sauce (optional)
3,397 kJ 815 kcal 55.9 g 7.4 g 67.4 g 5.3 g 14.8 g 5.0 g Dashi stock 200 ml
Mirin 3 tbsp
Soy sauce 3 tbsp
Ginger, grated ½ tsp

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1 To prevent splattering during the frying, make sure 8 To make the Tentsuyu sauce (if required),
to dry all deep-fry ingredients thoroughly first with combine the ingredients in a small saucepan;
a kitchen towel. heat it through and leave to one side.
2 For the batter, beat the egg yolk lightly and mix Any vegetables with a firm texture may be used
with the ice-cold water. for tempura.
3 Add half the flour to the egg and water mixture.
Professional tip
Give the mixture a few strokes. Add the rest of the
The water and other batter ingredients must be ice cold.
flour all at once. Stroke the mixture a few times with
chopsticks or a fork until the ingredients are loosely The batter should be lumpy to give it texture. Do not
combined. The batter should be very lumpy. If over- over-mix it; this will make it oily and heavy.
mixed, tempura will be oily and heavy. Only fry a few pieces at once.
4 Heat the oil to 160 °C.
5 Dip the vegetables into plain flour and then into
Healthy eating tips
the batter, a few pieces at a time. Fry until just Use sunflower or groundnut oil for frying.
crisp and golden (about 1½ minutes).
6 Drain the cooked vegetables on a kitchen towel.
7 Serve immediately with a pinch of salt, garnished
with parsley sprigs and lemon wedges, dry-
roasted salt or with Tentsuyu dipping sauce in a
small bowl with grated ginger. This dish can also
be served with an accompaniment of grated
white radish.

Use sparkling water to make tempura batter Cut a variety of vegetables into even pieces Dip each piece into the batter and then
deep-fry it

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86 Vegetable biryani 

1 Wash, soak and drain the rice.


2 Partly cook the rice in boiling salted water for
3 minutes. Refresh and drain well.
3 Heat the oil in a suitably sized pan. Add the
crushed cinnamon, cardamom and cloves, and
sweat for 2 minutes.
4 Add the sliced onions, garlic, chilli and ginger.
Continue to sweat until soft.
5 Prepare the vegetables: cut the carrots and celery
into batons, the cauliflower and broccoli into
florets and the French beans into 2.5 cm lengths.
6 Add the vegetables to the pan and fry for
2–3 minutes.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 7 Add the tomatoes and tomato purée. Season.
Basmati rice 400 g 1.25 kg 8 Make sure there is sufficient moisture in the
Oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp pan to cook the vegetables; usually a little
Cinnamon stick ½ 1¼
water needs to be added. Ideally, though, the
vegetables should cook in their own juices,
Cardamom pods 4 10
combined with the tomatoes.
Cloves 4 10
9 When the vegetables are partly cooked, layer them
Onions, sliced 100 g 250 g
in a casserole or suitable pan with the rice. (Make
Cloves of garlic, crushed 1 2–3 sure that there is sufficient liquid to cook the rice.)
Green chilli, finely chopped 1 2–3 10 Cover the casserole and finish cooking in a
Root ginger, grated 1 tbsp 2–3 tbsp moderate oven at 180 °C for about 20 minutes,
Mixed vegetables (e.g. carrots, celery, 600 g 1.5 kg or until the rice is tender.
cauliflower, broccoli, French beans)
11 Sprinkle with chopped coriander leaves and serve.
Tomatoes, blanched, deseeded and 400 g 1.25 kg
chopped, or canned plum tomatoes
Note
Tomato purée 25 g 60 g
A biryani is usually served with a side dish of vegetable curry.
Salt, pepper
Coriander leaves, chopped
Healthy eating tips
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l Keep added salt to a minimum.
2,014 kJ 482 kcal 7.3 g 0.9 g 91.3 g 9.9 g 12.2 g 4.6 g l Use a little unsaturated oil to sweat the spices, onions
and vegetables.

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87 Vegetable curry with rice pilaff

5 Add the curry sauce, bring to the boil and simmer


gently until all the vegetables are cooked but still
crunchy in texture.
6 Make the rice pilaff according to the recipe on
page 125. Add the roasted flaked almonds after
cooking.
7 Serve the curry in a suitable dish with the rice
pilaff, poppadoms and a curry tray with mango
chutney.

Curry sauce
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Onion, chopped 50 g 125 g
Mixed vegetables (e.g. cauliflower, 600 g 1.5 kg Clove of garlic, crushed ¼ ½
broccoli, peppers, carrots,
courgettes, mushrooms, aubergines) Butter or oil 10 g 25 g
Butter or oil 100 g 250 g Flour 10 g 25 g
Onions, chopped finely 150 g 375 g Curry powder 5g 12 g
Garam masala 25 g 60 g Tomato purée 5g 12 g
Creamed coconut (or 50 g/125 g 25 g 60 g Stock 375 ml 1 litre
desiccated coconut)
Apple, chopped 25 g 60 g
Curry sauce made using vegetable 500 ml 1.5 litre
stock Chutney, chopped 1 tbsp 2 tbsp

Rice pilaff (page 125) 100 g 250 g Desiccated coconut 5g 12 g

Flaked almonds, roasted 50 g 125 g Sultanas 10 g 25 g


Ginger root, grated or 10 g 25 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Ground ginger 5g 12 g
1,814 kJ 432 kcal 35.5 g 7.4 g 23.5 g 16.3 g 6.4 g 6.7 g
Salt
1 Prepare the vegetables: cut the cauliflower and
broccoli into small florets, blanch and refresh; 1 Gently cook the onion and garlic in the fat in a
cut the peppers in half, remove the seeds, cut small sauteuse without colouring.
into 1 cm dice; cut the carrots into large dice, 2 Mix in the flour and curry powder. Cook gently to
blanch and refresh; and cut the courgettes into a sandy mixture.
1 cm dice. Leave the mushrooms whole; cut the 3 Mix in the tomato purée, cool.
aubergines into 1 cm dice.
4 Gradually add the boiling stock and mix to a
2 Heat the butter or oil and sweat the onion. smooth sauce.
3 Add the garam masala; sweat for approximately 5 Add the remainder of the ingredients, season with
2 minutes and add the coconut. salt, and simmer for 30 minutes. Skim and correct
4 Add all the vegetables; sweat together for the seasoning.
approximately 5 minutes.
Healthy eating tips
l Use a small amount of an unsaturated oil to sweat the
onions.
l No added salt is necessary if the stock used contains
yeast extract.

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Vegetable protein

88 Crispy deep-fried tofu 

Allow 50 g of firm tofu per portion.


1 Cut the firm tofu into cubes.
2 Coat the tofu cubes with any of the following:
flour, egg and breadcrumbs; milk and flour;
cornstarch; arrowroot.
3 Deep-fry the tofu at 180 °C until golden brown.
Drain.
4 Serve garnished with freshly grated ginger and
julienne of herbs.
Serve with a tomato sauce flavoured with coriander.

Healthy eating tips


l Use an unsaturated oil to fry the tofu.
l Make sure the oil is hot so that less is absorbed.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l Alternatively, try dry-frying the tofu.
543 kJ 131 kcal 8.9 g 0.0 g 1.0 g 0.5 g 11.8 g 0.0 g

For a 50 g portion.

89 Chinese vegetable and seitan stir-fry 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Hoisin sauce 70 ml 175 ml
Vegetable oil 30 ml 75 ml
Soy sauce 60 ml 150 ml
Rice vinegar 30 ml 75 ml
Sugar 30 g 75 g
Vegetable stock 400 ml 1 litre
Cornflour 30 g 75 g
Garlic cloves, chopped 3 7½
Fresh ginger, chopped 2 tsp 5 tsp
Seitan (see page 350), cut into 500 g 1.25 kg
2 cm pieces
Spring onions, chopped 8 20
Red pepper, shredded 2 5
Yellow pepper, shredded 2 5
Broccoli, cut into small florets 250 g 625 g
French beans 250 g 625 g

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1 In a suitable saucepan whisk together the hoisin 3 Add the sauce mixture to the stir-fry; cooking until
sauce, half the vegetable oil, half the soy sauce, the vegetables are al dente.
the rice vinegar, sugar and vegetable stock. Bring 4 Serve with freshly cooked noodles or pilaff rice.
to boil and add the cornflour (diluted in a little water
to make a slurry). Add the garlic and ginger. Stir.
2 In a suitable wok, stir fry the seitan in the
remaining vegetable oil, then add the remaining
soy sauce. Stir fry for approximately 3 minutes.
Add the spring onions, peppers, broccoli and
French beans. Stir fry for a further 3 minutes.

Other vegetarian dishes

90 Cheese fritters (beignets au fromage) 

1 Bring the water and butter to the boil in a thick-


based pan. Remove from the heat.
2 Add the flour; mix with a kitchen spoon.
3 Return to a gentle heat and mix well until the
mixture leaves the sides of the pan. Remove from
the heat. Allow to cool slightly.
4 Gradually add the eggs, beating well. Add the
cheese and season.
5 Using a spoon, scoop the mixture in pieces
the size of a walnut and place into deep hot fat
at 185 °C.
6 Allow to cook, with the minimum of handling,
for about 10 minutes.
7 Drain and serve sprinkled with grated Parmesan.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Water 125 ml 310 ml Healthy eating tips
Butter 50 g 125 g l Use sunflower margarine for the fritters.
l No extra salt is needed as the cheese has salt in it.
Flour, white or wholemeal 60 g 200 g
l Fry in hot sunflower oil and drain on kitchen paper.
Eggs, medium 2 5
Parmesan cheese, grated 50 g 125 g
Salt, cayenne

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,409 kJ 340 kcal 28.4 g 11.2 g 11.8 g 0.4 g 9.9 g 0.5 g

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91 Cheese soufflé (soufflé au fromage) 

1 Melt the butter in a thick-based pan.


2 Add the flour and mix with a kitchen spoon.
3 Cook out for a few seconds without colouring.
4 Gradually add the cold milk and mix to a smooth
sauce.
5 Simmer for a few minutes.
6 Add 1 egg yolk, mix in quickly; immediately
remove from the heat.
7 When cool, add the remaining yolks. Season with
salt and cayenne.
8 Add the cheese.
9 Place the egg whites and a pinch of salt (a pinch of
egg white powder will help strengthen the whites)
in a scrupulously clean bowl and whisk until stiff.

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


10 Add one-eighth of the whites to the mixture and
mix well.
Butter or margarine 25 g 60 g
11 Gently fold in the remaining seven-eighths of the
Flour 15 g 50 g
mixture; mix as lightly as possible. Place into a
Milk 125 ml 310 ml buttered soufflé case.
Egg yolks 3 8
12 Cook in a hot oven at 220 °C for 25–30 minutes
Salt, cayenne pepper for a large soufflé or approximately 10 minutes for
Cheese, grated 50 g 125 g individual soufflés.
Egg whites 4 10 13 Remove from the oven, place on a round flat dish
and serve immediately.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
3,223 kJ 767 kcal 60.2 g 28.2 g 17.6 g 6.1 g 39.7 g 0.5 g
Healthy eating tips
Using hard margarine. l Use sunflower margarine and semi-skimmed milk to
make the sauce.
l No added salt is needed as the cheese has salt in it.

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13 Bread and dough products
This chapter is relevant to the following units:
➜ Prepare, cook and finish basic bread and dough
products.

Recipes included in this chapter 11 Focaccia 427


12 Pizza 428
No. Recipe Page 13 Naan bread 429
Bread doughs Buns
1 Wholemeal bread 419 14 Bun dough 430
2 Seeded bread rolls 420 15 Bath buns 432
3 Parmesan rolls 421 16 Hot cross buns 432
4 Red onion and sage rolls 421 17 Swiss buns 433
5 Sundried tomato bread 422 18 Doughnuts 433
6 Olive bread 423 Savarin doughs
7 Rye bread 424 19 Savarin dough 434
8 Soda bread 425 20 Savarin with fruit 436
9 Bagels 426 21 Marignans chantilly 436
10 Cholla bread 427 22 Blueberry baba 436

Ingredients Dough
The principal ingredients in bread and dough products are Fermentation
wheat flour and yeast. Bread and bread products form the
For dough to become leavened bread (bread that has risen,
basis of our diet and are staple products in our society. We
rather than flat bread) it must go through a fermentation
eat bread at breakfast, lunch and dinner, as sandwiches,
process. This is brought about by the action of yeast, a living
bread rolls, croissants, French sticks, and so on. Bread is also
micro-organism rich in protein and vitamin B. The yeast
used as an ingredient for many other dishes, either as slices
reacts with enzymes in the dough, which converts sugar
for sandwiches or toast, as fried bread or as breadcrumbs.
into alcohol, producing the characteristic flavour of bread.
Dough consists of strong flour (flour with a high gluten The action also produces carbon dioxide, which makes the
and protein content), water, salt and yeast, which are bread rise.
kneaded together to the required consistency at a suitable
Yeast requires ideal conditions for growth. These are:
temperature. It is then allowed to prove (to rise and increase
l warmth: a good temperature for dough production is
in size), when the yeast produces carbon dioxide and water,
22–30 °C
which aerates the dough. When baked it produces a light,
l moisture: the liquid should be added at approximately
digestible product with flavour and colour.
37 °C – if it is cooler, the yeast may not activate; if it is
Salted dough is more manageable than unsalted dough. any hotter it may kill the yeast
Salt is usually added a few moments before the end of the l food: this is obtained from the starch in the flour
kneading, since its function is to help expand the dough’s l time: this is needed to allow the yeast to grow.
volume.
Dried yeast has been dehydrated and must be creamed
Flour-based products provide energy and a variety of with a little water before use. It will keep for several months
vitamins and minerals. Wholemeal bread products also in its dry state. Some types of dried yeast can be used
provide roughage, an essential part of a healthy diet. straight from the packet.

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Yeast will not survive in a high concentration of sugar or salt, Laminated doughs
and its growth will slow down in a very rich dough with a Croissants and Danish pastries are enriched doughs to
high fat and egg content. which the fat is added by layering or lamination. This makes
When mixing yeast in water or milk, make sure that the them softer to eat because the fat in the dough insulates
liquid is at the correct temperature (37 °C), and disperse the water molecules, keeping the moisture level higher
the yeast in the liquid (the word ‘disperse’ is used as living during baking.
organisms cannot be dissolved). Danish pastries may be filled with frangipane, apple,
custard, pastry cream, cherries and many other ingredients.
Why does dough ferment?
It is interesting to understand why doughs ferment and Speciality doughs
what the effects are on the end product. In order to l Blinis: a type of savoury pancake traditionally made
understand why yeast dough rises, it is important to note from buckwheat flour.
that the main ingredients of natural leavening are water, l Naan bread: a leavened Indian bread traditionally
air and, most importantly, sugar, which is transformed into cooked in a tandoor (oven).
carbon dioxide and alcohol, and causes the leavening. The l Pitta bread: Middle Eastern and Greek unleavened
carbon dioxide forms bubbles inside the dough and makes bread.
it rise. Fermentation is a transformation undergone by l Chapatti: an Indian unleavened bread made from a
organic matter (sugars). fine ground wholemeal flour known as ‘atta’.
l Pizza dough: this is traditionally made using ‘00 flour’ –
Types of dough a fine flour produced from the central part of the wheat
grain that produces light, crisp doughs. Pizza dough is
Dough products come in a variety of forms and styles.
often enriched with olive oil to provide moisture and
The variety of flour alongside the additional ingredients
flavour.
incorporated, whether the dough is leavened or unleavened,
provides dough products with their own unique qualities.
The majority of doughs have some sort of leavening agent, Convenience dough products
usually yeast, or a starter, from which the natural yeast in There are many different types of convenience dough
flour is developed slowly over a long period of time and product on the market.
replaced with fresh flour and water as the required amount l Fresh and frozen pre-proved dough products: for
of the starter is used to produce the bread in question. example, rolls, croissants, Danish pastries and French
breads
Some dough products do not require yeast as a raising l Bake-off products that are finished and ready for
agent. Soda bread, for example, uses bicarbonate of soda, baking: these can be bought either frozen or fresh, or
an alkali which reacts with the acidic components within in modified atmosphere-packaged forms (in vacuum
doughs and batters to release carbon dioxide. The carbon packs, for example). This process removes most of the
dioxide raises the product and helps with the development oxygen around the product to slow down spoilage.
of texture. Other dough products, such as pitta bread and Such products have to be kept refrigerated. They
flatbreads, do not use a raising agent and are referred to as include garlic bread, bread rolls and Danish pastries.
unleavened breads.

Enriched doughs Working with dough: quality


The basic bread dough of wheat flour, yeast and water may points
be enriched with fat, sugar, eggs, milk and numerous other l Fresh yeast should be removed from the refrigerator
ingredients. Some examples of enriched doughs are: and used at room temperature.
l buns: a rich dough enriched with eggs, butter and l Check that all ingredients are weighed carefully.
sugar, used for a wide variety of buns including Chelsea l Work in a clean and tidy manner to avoid cross-
buns, Swiss buns and teacakes contamination.
l savarin: a rich yeast dough used for savarins, babas l Check all temperatures carefully.
and marignans l Note that wholemeal doughs absorb more water than
l brioche: a rich yeast dough with a high butter (fat) white doughs; the volume of water absorbed by flour
content. also varies according to its strength (the protein and
bran content).
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l When using machines, check that they are in good If the crust, is broken this may be because the dough was
working order. under-proved at the second stage.
l Always remember the health and safety rules when
If there are white spots on the crust, this may be because
using machinery.
the dough was not covered before the second proving.
l Divide the dough with a dough divider, hard scraper
or hydraulic cutting machine. This is referred to as
scaling the dough. This can be done by hand for smaller Storage of cooked dough
quantities. products
l Check the divided dough pieces for weight. When
Store dough products in clean, air-tight containers at room
weighing, remember that doughs lose up to 12.5 per
temperature or in a freezer for longer periods. Do not store
cent of their water during baking.
in a refrigerator unless you want the bread to stale quickly
l Keep the flour, bowl and liquid warm.
for use as breadcrumbs. Staling will also occur quickly in
l Remember to knock the dough back (re-knead it)
products that contain a lot of fat and milk. Many commercial
carefully once proved, as this will expel the gas and
dough products contain anti-staling agents.
allow the yeast to be dispersed properly, coming back
into direct contact with the dough. Crusty rolls and bread are affected by changes in storage
l Proving allows the dough to ferment; the second prove conditions; they are softened by a damp environment and
is essential for giving dough products the necessary humid conditions, so should be stored in a dry environment
volume and a good flavour. to keep them crusty.
l Time and temperature are crucial when cooking dough
products. Ensure the oven is at the correct temperature
before placing the product in to bake.
Bread
Today restaurants often offer a range of different flavoured
l Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when
breads. A wide variety is available internationally, with
using frozen dough products.
different nations and regions having their own speciality
l Contamination can occur if doughs are defrosted
breads. Bread also plays an important part in many religious
incorrectly.
festivals, especially Christian and Jewish festivals.

Faults in yeast doughs Bulk fermentation


If your dough has a close texture, this may be because:
The traditional bread-making process is known as the
l it was insufficiently proved
bulk fermentation process. This was used by many bakers
l it was insufficiently kneaded
before the introduction of high-speed mixing and dough
l it contains insufficient yeast
conditioners, which both eliminate the need for bulk
l the oven was too hot
fermentation time. However, this traditional method
l too much water was added
produces a fine flavour, which is evident in the final product.
l too little water was added.
Bulk fermentation time (BFT) is the term is used to
If your dough has an uneven texture, this may be because:
describe the length of time that the dough is allowed to
l it was insufficiently kneaded
ferment in bulk. BFT is measured from the end of the mixing
l it was over-proved
method to the beginning of the scaling (weighing) process.
l the oven was too cool.
The length of BFT can be from one to six hours and is
If your dough has a coarse texture, this may be because: related to the level of salt and yeast in the recipe, as well as
l it was over-proved, uncovered the dough temperature.
l it was insufficiently kneaded
During the bulk fermentation process it is important that
l too much water was added
ideal conditions are adhered to:
l too much salt was added.
l The dough must be kept covered to prevent the surface
If your dough is wrinkled, this may be because it was over- of the dough developing a skin.
proved. l The appropriate temperature must be maintained and

If your dough is sour, this may be because: monitored to control the rate of fermentation.
l the yeast was stale
l too much yeast was used.

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Finishing and presentation Allergies


Depending of the type of product being made, there Gluten is the protein found in wheat, barley and rye,
are a number of different finishes that can be applied to and to a lesser extent in yeast. An increasing number of
dough products. Certain breads, such as baguettes, are people are intolerant to gluten, which results in damage
scored before they are baked, which helps to produce an to the lining of the small intestine. This is known as coeliac
appealing visual finish to the baked product. disease and people who are intolerant must avoid the
consumption of wheat and flour-based products.
Many breads are sprinkled with seeds, for example poppy,
sesame and fennel, before they are baked. Others may Although it is essential to clearly list all potential allergens
have herbs added, such as the red onion and sage rolls when making fermented dough products, the allergens
that feature in this chapter, or are sprinkled with cheese, as that are most likely to be used in their production include:
seen with Parmesan rolls. A common but perhaps the most l gluten – flours and any products made from wheat, rye,
simple of finishes applied to breads is a light dusting of the barley and oats
same flour used to produce the bread. This is sieved over l nuts – such as hazelnuts and nibbed almonds added to
the bread once it has cooled and applies to many of the garnish Danish pastries, for example
examples shown in this chapter. l sesame seeds – often sprinkled on the surface of breads
and rolls
Many dough products – including breads and laminated
l eggs – used in the production of enriched doughs
doughs, such as croissant and pain au chocolat – are
l lactose – for example, milk used in place of water in
brushed with egg wash before they are baked. This
the production of dough; cheese used to glaze breads;
produces a light, golden-brown glaze during the baking
yoghurt used in speciality doughs, such as naan.
process. Other products are glazed after baking, for
example Swiss buns and Danish pastries, which are often Beyond the basic preparation of fermented doughs,
finished with a fruit glaze and water icing. Other enriched attention is also required with regard to the additional
doughs, such as Chelsea buns, are soaked with bun syrup ingredients that are used to complete the product. It
while still hot after baking and sprinkled with nibbed sugar. is vitally important to assess any of the other potential
allergens that are incorporated into fermented doughs, as
Video: well as the dough itself.
principles of
breadmaking
http://bit.ly/
17grKYK

Test yourself
1 What is meant by fermentation?
2 Name two types of speciality bread.
3 Why is temperature so important when making bread dough using yeast?
4 What is the raising agent used in soda bread?
5 What is the difference between strong and soft flour?
6 State the nutritional benefits of wholemeal flour.
7 Give two examples, with descriptions, of dough products in the following
categories:
a enriched doughs
b laminated doughs
c speciality doughs.
8 Name three seeds that are often sprinkled on bread rolls before baking.
9 What is the difference between leavened and unleavened bread?
10 What is the meaning of the term ‘scaling’?

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Bread doughs

1 Wholemeal bread 

Ingredient Makes 2
loaves
Unsalted butter or oil 60 g
Honey 3 tbsp
Water, lukewarm 500 ml
Fresh yeast 25 g
or
Dried yeast 18 g
Salt 1 tbsp
Flour, unbleached strong white 125 g
Flour, stoneground wholemeal 625 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


6,893 kJ 1,628 kcal 32.5 g 16.7 g 302.3 g 62.6 g 50.5 g 40.0 g

1 Melt the butter in a saucepan. 11 Divide the dough into two equal pieces.
2 Mix together 1 tbsp of honey and 4 tbsp of the 12 Form each piece of dough into a cottage loaf or
water in a bowl. place in a suitable loaf tin.
3 Disperse the yeast into the honey mixture. 13 Allow to prove in a warm place for approximately
4 In a basin, place the melted butter, remaining 45 minutes.
honey and water, the yeast mixture and salt. 14 Place in a preheated oven, 220 °C and bake until
5 Add the white flour and half the wholemeal flour. well browned (approximately 40–45 minutes).
Mix well. 15 When baked, the bread should sound hollow and
6 Add the remaining wholemeal flour gradually, the sides should feel crisp when pressed.
mixing well between each addition. 16 Cool on a wire rack.
7 The dough should pull away from the side of the
bowl and form a ball. The resulting dough should Variation
be soft and slightly sticky. Alternatively, the bread may be divided into 50 g rolls,
brushed with egg wash and baked at 200 °C for
8 Turn out on to a floured work surface. Sprinkle
approximately 10 minutes.
with white flour, knead well.
9 Brush a clean bowl with melted butter or oil.
Place the dough in the bowl, cover with a damp Healthy eating tip
l Only a little salt is necessary to ‘control’ the yeast.
cloth and allow to prove in a warm place. This will
Many customers will prefer less salty bread.
take approximately 1–1½ hours.
10 Knock back and further knead the dough. Cover
again and rest for 10–15 minutes.

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2 Seeded bread rolls 

Ingredient Makes 30 rolls


Strong flour 1 kg
Yeast 30 g
Water at 37 °C 600 ml
Salt 20 g
Caster sugar 10 g
Milk powder 20 g
Sunflower oil 50 g
Egg wash
Poppy seeds
Sesame seeds

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
633 kJ 150 kcal 3.4 g 0.5 g 26.0 g 1.2 g 5.3 g 1.4 g 0.3 g

Per roll.

1 Sieve the flour on to paper.


Professional tip
2 Dissolve the yeast in half the water.
Instead of weighing out each 50 g piece of dough, weigh
3 Dissolve the salt, sugar and milk powder in the out 100 g pieces and then halve them.
other half. Placing bread rolls in staggered rows means they are
4 Add both liquids and the oil to the flour at once less likely to ‘prove’ into each other. The spacing allows
and mix on speed 1 for 5 minutes or knead by them to cook more evenly and more will fit on the
baking sheet.
hand for 10 minutes.
5 Cover with cling film and leave to prove for 1 hour
at 26 °C. Variation
6 ‘Knock back’ the dough and scale into 50 g Try using other types of seed such as sunflower, linseed
pieces. or pumpkin.
7 Shape and place in staggered rows on a silicone For a beer glaze mix, together 150 ml beer with 100 g rye
paper-covered baking sheet. flour and brush on before baking.
8 Prove until the rolls almost double in size.
9 Egg wash carefully and sprinkle with seeds.
10 Bake immediately at 230 °C with steam for
10–12 minutes.
11 Break one open to test if cooked.
12 Allow to cool on a wire rack.

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3 Parmesan rolls 

1 Follow method for seeded rolls (recipe 2) up to


step 5.
2 Lightly flour work surface and roll the dough into a
rectangle until 3 cm thick.
3 Make sure the dough is not stuck to the surface.
4 Brush with water and cover with Parmesan.
5 Using a large knife, cut into squares 6 × 6 cm.
6 Place on a silicone paper-covered baking sheet
and leave to prove until almost double in size.
7 Bake at 230 °C for 10–12 minutes with steam.
8 Cool on a wire rack.

Professional tip
Ingredient Makes 30 rolls When making bread that requires rolling out as opposed
to being individually shaped, it is helpful to decrease
Bread roll dough (see recipe 2 but omit the seeds) the liquid content by 10 per cent so it will be easier to
Parmesan cheese, grated 200 g process.
To ensure the squares are all the same size, mark a grid
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium using the back of the knife before cutting.
2,169 kJ 512 kcal 9.9 g 2.2 g 94.3 g 1.8 g 17.5 g 5.2 g 1.0 g

4 Red onion and sage rolls 

Ingredient 8 rolls 16 rolls


Red onion ½ 1
Dried sage ¼ tsp ½ tsp
Bread roll dough (see recipe 2 but
omit the seeds)
Oil 1 tbsp 2 tbsp

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
759 kJ 181 kcal 9.2 g 1.7 g 21.7 g 2.8 g 4.2 g 1.2 g 1.0 g

1 Finely dice the red onion. Sweat it, then leave to 4 Roll the dough as you would for a Swiss roll, and
cool. seal the edge.
2 Chop the sage and add it to the onion. 5 Cut into 50 g slices.
3 Pin out bread dough in a rectangle. Spread the 6 Place the slices on a prepared baking sheet and
onion and sage mixture over seven-eighths of the egg wash. Bake in a preheated oven at 220 °C for
dough. Egg wash the exposed edge. approximately 10 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.

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5 Sundried tomato bread

Ingredient 2 × 450 g 5 Mix until a smooth dough is formed. Check


loaves for any extremes in consistency and adjust as
Sun-dried tomatoes, chopped 100 g necessary until a smooth elastic dough is formed.
Water, warm 300 ml 6 Cover the dough, keep warm and allow to prove.
Bread flour 500 g 7 After approximately 30–40 minutes, knock back
Salt 10 g the dough and mix in the chopped sun-dried
tomatoes (well drained).
Skimmed milk powder 12.5 g
Shortening 12.5 g
8 Mould and prove again for another 30 minutes
(covered).
Yeast (fresh) 20 g
9 Divide the dough into two and mould round.
Sugar 12.5 g
10 Rest for 10 minutes. Keep covered.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium 11 Remould into ball shape.
10,192 kJ 2,414 kcal 70.8 g 12.8 g 401.8 g 29.6 g 67.4 g 20.7 g 5.0 g
12 Place the dough pieces into 15 cm diameter
1 Soak the sun-dried tomatoes in boiling water for hoops laid out on a baking tray. The hoops must
30 minutes. be warm and lightly greased.

2 Sieve the flour, salt and skimmed milk powder. 13 With the back of the hand flatten the dough
pieces.
3 Add the shortening and rub through the dry
ingredients. 14 Prove at 38–40 °C in humid conditions, preferably
in a prover.
4 Disperse the yeast into warm water, approximately
37 °C. Add and dissolve the sugar. Add to the 15 Bake at 225 °C for 25–30 minutes.
above ingredients. 16 After baking, remove the bread from the tins
immediately and place on a cooling wire.

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6 Olive bread 

Ingredient 4 loaves 1 For the starter, dissolve the yeast in the water,
add the flour and sugar, mix well, cover and leave
Starter
to ferment for 30 minutes.
Yeast 40 g
2 For the dough, sieve the flour, sugar and salt into
Water at 37 °C 180 ml
a mixing bowl, add the water followed by the
Strong flour 225 g
starter and start mixing slowly.
Sugar 5g
3 Gradually add the oil and continue mixing to
Dough achieve a smooth dough.
Strong flour 855 g
4 Cover with cling film and prove for 1 hour or until
Sugar 40 g double in size.
Salt 20 g 5 Knock back, add the olives and divide the dough
Water at 37 °C 450 ml into four.
Olive oil 160 ml 6 Roll into long shapes and place on a baking sheet
Green olives, cut into quarters 100 g sprinkled with rice cones, return to the prover and
leave until double in size.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium 7 Brush with olive oil and bake at 220 °C for
5,174 kJ 1,229 kcal 44.2 g 6.5 g 188.3 g 3.5 g 30.9 g 15.9 g 5.2 g
20–25 minutes.
8 When cooked, the bread should sound hollow
when tapped on the base.
9 Leave to cool on a wire rack.

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1 Make up the starter. 2 Starter ready for use after proving. 3 Start mixing in the ingredients for
the main dough, tearing up the
starter.

4 Continue mixing in the ingredients 5 Shape the dough. 6 Divide and roll into loaves.
and working the dough.

7 Rye bread 

Ingredient 1 loaf
Fresh yeast (or dried yeast may be used) 15 g
Water, warm 60 ml
Black treacle 1 tbsp
Vegetable oil 1 tbsp
Caraway seeds (optional) 15 g
Salt 15 g
Lager 250 ml
Rye flour 250 g
Unbleached bread flour 175 g
Polenta
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
7,174 kJ 1,690 kcal 24.7 g 2.9 g 331.8 g 12.5 g 46.7 g 46.2 g 6.0 g Egg wash

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1 Disperse the yeast in the warm water (at 9 Shape the dough into an oval approximately
approximately 37 °C). 25 cm long.
2 In a basin mix the black treacle, oil, two-thirds of 10 Place on to a baking sheet lightly sprinkled with
the caraway seeds (if required) and the salt. Add polenta.
the lager. Add the yeast and mix in the sieved rye 11 Allow the dough to prove in a warm place,
flour. Mix well. preferably in a prover, until double in size
3 Gradually add the bread flour. Continue to add the (approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour).
flour until the dough is formed and it is soft and 12 Lightly brush the loaf with egg wash, sprinkle with
slightly sticky. the remaining caraway seeds (if required).
4 Turn the dough on to a lightly floured surface and 13 Using a small, sharp knife, make three diagonal
knead well. slashes, approximately 5 mm deep into the top of
5 Knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic. the loaf.
6 Place the kneaded dough into a suitable bowl that 14 Place in a preheated oven at 190 °C and bake for
has been brushed with oil. approximately 50–55 minutes.
7 Cover with a damp cloth and allow the dough to 15 When cooked, turn out. The bread should sound
prove in a warm place until it is double in size. hollow when tapped and the sides should feel
This will take about 1½–2 hours. crisp.
8 Turn the dough on to a lightly floured work 16 Allow to cool.
surface, knock back the dough to original
size. Cover and allow to rest for approximately Healthy eating tip
5–10 minutes. l Only a little salt is necessary to ‘control’ the yeast.
Many customers will prefer less salty bread.

8 Soda bread 

Ingredient 2 loaves
Flour, wholemeal 250 g
Flour (strong) 250 g
Bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp
Salt 1 tsp
Buttermilk 200 g
Water, warm 60 ml
Butter, melted 25 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
8,341 kJ 1,970 kcal 39.8 g 20.9 g 357.8 g 18.5 g 67.9 g 20.9 g 3.6 g

1 Sift the flours, salt and bicarbonate of soda into a 4 Mould into 2 round loaves and mark the top with
bowl. a cross.
2 Make a well and add the buttermilk, warm water 5 Bake at 200 °C for about 25 minutes. When the
and melted butter. bread is ready, it should make a hollow sound
3 Work the dough for about 5 minutes. when tapped.

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9 Bagels

Ingredient 10–12 bagels


Strong flour 450 g
Yeast 15 g
Water, warm 150 ml
Salt 10 g
Caster sugar 25 g
Oil 45 ml
Egg yolk 20 g
Milk 150 ml
Poppy seeds

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
670 kJ 158 kcal 2.1 g 0.5 g 32.7 g 5.0 g 6.2 g 1.6 g 0.8 g

1 Sieve the flour, place in a mixing bowl. 7 Knock back and scale at 50 g pieces, shape into
2 Make a well and add the yeast which has been rolls and make a hole in the centre using a small
dissolved in the water. rolling pin.
3 Mix a little of the flour into the yeast to form a 8 Place on a floured board and prove for
batter, sprinkle over some of the flour from the 10 minutes.
sides and leave to ferment. 9 Carefully drop into boiling water and simmer until
4 Mix together the salt, sugar, oil, egg yolk and milk. they rise to the surface.
5 When the batter has fermented add the rest of the 10 Lift out and place on a silicone-covered baking
ingredients and mix to achieve a smooth dough. sheet, egg wash, sprinkle or dip in poppy seeds
and bake at 210 °C for 30 minutes.
6 Cover and prove for 1 hour (BFT).

Use a rolling pin to make a hole in the centre Poach the bagels in water Egg wash the bagels and sprinkle with seeds
of each bagel before baking

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10 Cholla bread 

1 Rub the butter or margarine into the sieved flour


in a suitable basin.
2 Mix the sugar, salt and egg together.
3 Disperse the yeast in the water.
4 Add all these ingredients to the sieved flour and
mix well to develop the dough. Cover with a damp
cloth or plastic and allow to ferment for about
45 minutes.
5 Divide into 125–150 g strands and begin to plait as
follows:

4–strand plait 5–strand plait


Ingredient 2 loaves 2 over 3 2 over 3
Butter or margarine 56 g 4 over 2 5 over 2
Flour (strong) 500 g 1 over 3 1 over 3
Caster sugar 18 g
Salt 1 tsp 6 After moulding, place on a lightly greased baking
sheet and egg wash lightly.
Egg 1
7 Prove in a little steam until double in size. Egg
Yeast 25 g
wash again lightly and decorate with maw seeds
(poppy seeds).
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
4,876 kJ 1,154 kcal 30.1 g 16.1 g 198.1 g 13.1 g 35.0 g 10.3 g 1.2 g 8 Bake in a hot oven, at 220 °C for 25–30 minutes.

11 Focaccia 

Ingredient 1 loaf
Active dry yeast 2 packets
Sugar 1 tsp
Lukewarm water (about blood temperature) 230 ml
Extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle on the bread 70 g
Salt 1½ tsp
Flour, unbleached all-purpose 725 g
Coarse salt
Picked rosemary

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
12,915 kJ 3,052 kcal 78.7 g 11.5 g 553.6 g 14.7 g 66.7 g 30.0 g 5.6 g

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1 Dissolve the yeast and sugar in half of the 5 Knock back the dough, knead it for a further
lukewarm water in a bowl; let sit until foamy. In 5 minutes, and gently roll it out in to a large disc
another bowl, add the remaining water, the olive or sheet to approximately 2 cm thick.
oil, and the salt. 6 Let rise for 15 minutes, covered. Oil your fingers
2 Pour in the yeast mixture. and make impressions with them in the dough,
3 Blend in the flour, a quarter at a time, until the 3 cm apart. Let prove for 1 hour.
dough comes together. Knead on a floured board 7 Preheat the oven to 210 °C. Drizzle the dough with
for 10 minutes, adding flour as needed to make olive oil and sprinkle with coarse salt and picked
it smooth and elastic. Put the dough in an oiled rosemary.
bowl, turn to coat well, and cover with a towel. 8 Bake for 15–20 minutes in a very hot oven
4 Let rise in a warm draught-free place for 1 hour, at 200 °C, until golden brown. Sprinkle with
until doubled in size. additional oil if desired. Cut into squares and
serve warm.

12 Pizza 

1 Sieve the flour and the salt. Rub in the margarine.


2 Disperse the yeast in the warm milk or water; add
the caster sugar. Add this mixture to the flour.
3 Mix well, knead to a smooth dough, place in a
basin covered with a damp cloth and allow to
prove until doubled in size.
4 Knock back, divide into two and roll out into two
18 cm discs. Place on a lightly greased baking
sheet.
5 Sweat the finely chopped onions and garlic in the
oil until cooked.
Ingredient 2 × 18 cm 6 Add the roughly chopped tomatoes, tomato
purée, oregano, basil and sugar. Bring to the boil
Flour, strong white 200 g
and simmer for 5 minutes.
Pinch of salt
7 Dilute the cornflour in a little water, stir into the
Margarine 12 g
tomato mixture and bring back to the boil.
Yeast 5g
8 Take the discs of pizza dough and spread 125 g of
Water or milk at 24 °C 125 ml filling on each one.
Caster sugar 5g
9 Sprinkle with grated mozzarella cheese or lay the
Onions, finely chopped 100 g slices of cheese on top.
Cloves of garlic, crushed 2 10 Bake in a moderately hot oven at 180 °C, for
Sunflower oil 60 ml about 10 minutes.
Plum tomatoes, canned 200 g The pizza dough may also be made into rectangles so
Tomato purée 100 g that it can be sliced into fingers for buffet work.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
Oregano 3g
3,956 kJ 941 kcal 46.3 g 13 g 114.4 g 20.1 g 23.6 g 8.4 g
Basil 3g Using 100 per cent strong white flour.
Sugar 10 g
Cornflour 10 g
Mozzarella cheese 100 g

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Bread and dough products 13

Note Variation
Pizza is a traditional dish originating from southern Oregano is sprinkled on most pizzas before baking.
Italy. In simple terms it is a flat bread dough that can This is a basic recipe and many variations exist. Some
be topped with a wide variety of ingredients and baked have the addition of olives, artichoke hearts, prawns,
quickly. The only rule is not to add wet ingredients, such mortadella sausage, garlic sausage or anchovy fillets;
as tomatoes, which are too juicy, otherwise the pizza other combinations include:
will become soggy. Traditionally, pizzas are baked in a l mozzarella cheese, anchovies, capers and garlic
wood-fired brick oven, but they can be baked in any l mozzarella cheese, tomato and oregano
type of hot oven for 8–15 minutes depending on the l ham, mushrooms, egg and parmesan cheese
ingredients. The recipe given here is a typical one. l prawns, tuna, capers and garlic
l ham, mushrooms and olives.

13 Naan bread 

1 Sift the flour into a suitable bowl and add the


sugar, salt and baking powder.
2 Mix the yeast into the warm milk and stir in the
yoghurt. Mix thoroughly with the flour to form a
dough.
3 Knead the dough until it is smooth. Cover with a
clean cloth and leave to rise in a warm place for
about 4 hours.
4 Divide the risen dough into 12 equal portions and,
on a lightly floured surface, roll into balls.
5 Flatten the balls into oblong shapes, using both
hands, and slapping the naan from one hand to
the other.
6 Cook the naan bread on the sides of a tandoor
oven or on a lightly greased griddle or heavy-
Ingredient 6 portions bottomed frying pan.
Flour (strong) 350 g 7 Cook the naan on one side only. Brush the raw
Caster sugar 1½ tsp side with clarified butter and sprinkle with poppy
Salt 1 tsp seeds; turn over, cook the other side or brown
Baking powder ½ tsp under a salamander.
Fresh yeast 15 g
Note
Warm milk (37 °C) 150 ml
Unsweetened plain yoghurt 150 ml
This recipe comes from Punjab and goes well with
tandoori meat dishes as well as vindaloos. Traditionally,
Butter, clarified 100 g naans are baked in clay ovens called a tandoor. They
Poppy seeds 2 tbsp must be eaten fresh and hot, and served immediately.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,619 kJ 386 kcal 20.5 g 12.0 g 48.3 g 5.0 g 10.1 g 1.8 g
Healthy eating tips
l Cook the bread without added fat.
With clarified butter – using ghee.
l Naan bread is a useful accompaniment for fattier
meat dishes.

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Buns

14 Bun dough 

1 Sieve the flour.


2 Dissolve the yeast in half the milk and add enough
of the flour to make a thick batter, cover with cling
film and place in the prover to ferment.
3 Rub the butter into the rest of the flour.
4 Beat the eggs and add the salt and sugar.
5 When the batter has fermented, add to the flour
together with the liquid.
6 Mix slowly for 5 minutes to form a soft dough.
7 Place in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with cling film
and prove for 1 hour at 26 °C.
8 Knock back the dough and knead on the table,
rest for 10 minutes before processing.

Ingredient 12 buns 24 buns Bun wash


Strong flour 500 g 1 kg Bun wash is used for most bun recipes, including Bath
Yeast 25 g 50 g and Chelsea buns, after baking.
Milk (scalded and cooled to 40 °C) 250 ml 500 ml
Milk 250 ml
Butter 60 g 120 g
Caster sugar 100 g
Eggs 2 4
Salt 5g 10 g 1 Bring both ingredients to the boil and brush over
Sugar 60 g 120 g liberally as soon the buns are removed from
the oven. The heat from the buns will set the
glaze and prevent it from soaking in, giving a
characteristic sticky coat.

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1 Sift the flour. 2 Rub in the fat. 3 Make a well in the flour and pour
in the beaten egg.

4 Pour in the liquid. 5 Fold the ingredients together. 6 Knead the dough.

7 Before and after proving: the same


amount of dough is twice the size
after it has been left to prove.

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15 Bath buns 

Ingredient 12–14 buns


Basic bun dough (recipe 14) 1 kg
Bun spice 20 ml
Sultanas 200 g
Sugar nibs 360 g
Egg yolks 8

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
827 kJ 196 kcal 6.5 g 3.6 g 31.9 g 13.4 g 4.5 g 1.4 g 0.1 g

Hot cross buns and Bath buns

1 Mix the bun spice into the basic dough and 5 Place on a paper-lined baking sheet in rough
knead. shapes.
2 Add the sultanas, two-thirds of the sugar nibs and 6 Sprinkle liberally with the rest of the nibbed sugar.
all the egg yolks. 7 Allow to prove until double in size.
3 Using a plastic scraper, cut in the ingredients (it is 8 Bake at 200 °C for 15–20 minutes.
usual for the ingredients not to be fully mixed in).
9 Brush with bun wash as soon as they come out
4 Scale into 60 g pieces. of the oven.

16 Hot cross buns 

Ingredient 12–14 buns 24 buns 1 Add the dried fruit and spice to the basic dough,
mix well.
Basic bun dough (recipe 14) 1 kg 2 kg
2 Scale into 60 g pieces and roll.
Currants 75 g 150 g
Sultanas 75 g 150 g
3 Place on a baking sheet lined with silicone paper
in neat rows opposite each other and egg wash.
Mixed spice 5g 10 g
4 Mix together the ingredients for the crossing
Crossing paste
paste. Pipe it in continuous lines across the buns.
Strong flour 125 g 250 g
5 Allow to prove.
Water 250 ml 500 ml
6 Bake at 220 °C for 15–20 minutes.
Oil 25 ml 50 ml
7 Brush with bun wash as soon as they come out
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
of the oven.
744 kJ 177 kcal 6.7 g 3.6 g 26.8 g 8.3 g 4.6 g 1.2 g 0.1 g

Variation
To make fruit buns, proceed as for hot cross buns
without the crosses.

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17 Swiss buns 

Ingredient 12–14 buns


Basic bun dough (recipe 14) 1 kg
Fondant 500 g
Lemon oil 5 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
697 kJ 165 kcal 5.6 g 3.4 g 27.0 g 8.4 g 3.4 g 1.0 g 0.0 g

1 Scale the dough into 60 g pieces. 4 Allow to prove.


2 Roll into balls then elongate to form oval shapes. 5 Bake at 220 °C for 15–20 minutes.
3 Place on a baking sheet lined with silicone paper, 6 Allow to cool then dip each bun in lemon-
egg wash. flavoured or plain white fondant.

18 Doughnuts 

4 When proved, carefully place in a deep fat fryer at


180 °C.
5 Turn over when coloured on one side and fully
cook.
6 Drain well on absorbent paper.
7 Toss in caster sugar.
8 Make a small hole in one side and pipe in the jam.

Variation
The caster sugar can be mixed with ground cinnamon.
Ingredient 12 doughnuts
Basic bun dough (recipe 14) 1 kg Health and safety
Caster sugar 500 g As a fryer is not a regular piece of equipment found in a
Raspberry jam 250 g patisserie, a portable fryer is often used. Always make
sure it is on a very secure surface in a suitable position.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
Never attempt to move it until it has completely cooled
918 kJ 218 kcal 13.3 g 4.0 g 22.6 g 4.0 g 3.6 g 1.2 g down. In addition, extreme care must be taken to avoid
Using hard margarine and peanut oil. serious burns.
l Only use a deep fat fryer after proper training.
1 Scale the dough into 60 g pieces. l Make sure the oil is clean and the fryer is filled to the
correct level.
2 Roll into balls and make a hole in the dough using
l Preheat before using but never leave unattended.
a rolling pin. l Always carefully place the products into the fryer –
3 Prove on an oiled paper-lined tray. never drop them in. Use a basket if appropriate.
l Never place wet products into the fryer.

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Savarin doughs

19 Savarin dough 

Ingredient 35 items Savarin syrup


Strong flour 450 g
Yeast 1g Ingredient 3 litres

Water at 40 °C 125 ml Oranges 2

Eggs 5 Lemons 2

Caster sugar 60 g Water 2 litres

Salt Pinch Sugar 1 kg

Melted butter 150 g Bay leaf 2


Cloves 2
1 Sieve the flour and place in a bowl. Make a well. Cinnamon sticks 2
2 Make a ferment by dissolving the yeast in the
water and pour into the well. 1 Peel the oranges and lemons and squeeze the
juice.
3 Gradually mix the flour into the liquid, forming
a thin batter. Sprinkle over a little of the flour to 2 Add all the ingredients into a large pan and bring
cover, then leave to ferment. to the boil, simmer for 2–3 minutes and pass
through a conical strainer.
4 Whisk the eggs, sugar and salt.
3 Allow to cool and measure the density (it should
5 When the ferment has erupted through the flour,
read 22 ° Baumé). Adjust if necessary. (More
add the eggs and mix to a smooth batter. Cover
liquid will lower the density, more sugar will
and leave to prove until double in size.
increase it.)
6 Add the melted butter and beat in.
4 Reboil then dip the baked savarins into the hot
7 Pipe the batter into prepared (buttered and
syrup until they swell slightly. Check they are
floured) moulds one-third full.
properly soaked before carefully removing and
8 Prove until the mixture reaches the top of the placing on to a wire rack with a tray underneath to
mould and bake at 220 °C for 12–20 minutes, drain.
depending on the size of the mould.
5 When cooled, brush with boiling apricot glaze.
9 Unmould and leave to cool.
Note
Professional tip
It is important that savarin syrup is at the correct density.
Savarin and savarin-based products are never served
It should measure 22 ° Baumé on the saccharometer.
without first soaking in a flavoured syrup. They are
If the syrup is too thin, the products are likely to
literally dry sponges and should be:
disintegrate. If it is too dense it will not fully penetrate the
l golden brown in colour with an even surface
product and leave a dry centre.
l smooth, with no cracks, breaks or tears
l evenly soaked without any hard or dry areas
l sealed by brushing with apricot glaze after soaking.

Cooked products can be stored in the fridge overnight,


but if left for too long they will dry out and cracks will
appear. They are best wrapped in cling film, labelled
and stored in the freezer.

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1 Cream the yeast in milk to make a 2 Add the dissolved yeast to the 3 The mixture after fermentation.
ferment. flour and sprinkle a little flour over
it.

4 Add beaten eggs, sugar and salt. 5 The dough after proving. 6 Add the butter.

7 After proving, pipe into moulds. 8 After proving for the final time.

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20 Savarin with fruit 

A savarin is baked in a ring mould, either large or


individual.
Before glazing, sprinkle with kirsch and fill the centre
with prepared fruit. Serve with a crème anglaise or
raspberry coulis.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1021 kJ 241 kcal 4.6 g 2.5 g 49.0 g 40.0 g 2.7 g 0.7 g 0.1 g

Using 40 g of fruit, 1 tsp of glaze and ¼ tsp of spirit per portion.

21 Marignans chantilly 

A marignan is savarin dough baked in an individual


boat-shaped mould or barquette.
Split the glazed marignans and fill with Chantilly cream.
Once split, and before filling, they can be sprinkled with
rum or orange-flavoured liqueur.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1407 kJ 335 kcal 14.4 g 8.7 g 51.0 g 41.0 g 2.9 g 0.5 g 0.1 g

Using 30 g of Chantilly cream, 1 tsp of glaze and ¼ tsp of spirit


per portion.

Professional tip
Savarin paste is notorious for sticking in the mould.
Always butter moulds carefully and flour. After use do
not wash the moulds but wipe clean with kitchen paper.

22 Blueberry baba 

For a baba, currants are usually added to the basic


savarin dough before baking.
As for marignans, split the glazed baba and fill with
crème diplomate and blueberries or Chantilly cream.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1439 kJ 342 kcal 14.4 g 8.7 g 54.0 g 45.0 g 3.0 g 1.2 g 0.1 g

Using 15 g blueberries, 30g of Chantilly cream, 1 tsp of glaze


and ¼ tsp of spirit per portion.

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14 Basic pastry products
This chapter is relevant to the following units:
➜ Prepare, cook and finish basic pastry products.

Recipes included in this chapter Suet pastry


21 Suet paste 464
No. Recipe Page
22 Steamed fruit puddings 464
Short pastry
Puff pastry
1 Short paste (pâte à foncer) 446
23 Puff paste (French method) 465
2 Quiche lorraine (cheese and ham savoury 448
flan) 24 Rough puff paste 467
3 Fruit pie 448 25 Puff pastry cases (bouchées, vol-au-vents) 468
4 Treacle tart 449 26 Cheese straws (paillettes au fromage) 469
Sweet pastry 27 Sausage rolls 469
5 Sugar paste (sweet paste, pâte à sucre) 450 28 Gâteau pithiviers 470
6 Flan cases 451 29 Palmiers 471
7 Egg custard tart 452 30 Pear jalousie 472
8 Fruit tart, tartlets or barquettes 452 31 Puff pastry slice (mille-feuilles) 472
9 Apple flan 454 32 Fruit slice (bande aux fruits) 473
10 Lemon tart 455 33 Cream horns 474
11 Lemon meringue pie 456 34 Eccles cakes 475
12 Pear and almond tart 456 35 Apple turnovers (chausson aux pommes) 475
13 Bakewell tart 457 Fillings
14 Mince pies 458 36 Pastry cream (crème pâtissière) 476
Choux pastry 37 Chantilly cream 477
15 Choux paste (pâte à choux) 459 38 Buttercream 477
16 Cream buns (choux à la crème) 460 39 Boiled buttercream 478
17 Profiteroles and chocolate sauce 461 40 Frangipane (almond cream) 479
18 Chocolate éclairs 461 41 Ganache 480
19 Gâteau Paris-Brest 462 42 Italian meringue 480
20 Choux paste fritters (beignets soufflés) 463 43 Swiss meringue 481
44 Apple purée 482
45 Stock syrup 482

In addition to being one of the most important sections of


the kitchen, pastry work can also be particularly enjoyable
Ingredients for pastry work
and rewarding. Although it is called ‘pastry work’, it actually This section provides information about the most
includes making breads, desserts, sweets, and much more, not commonly used ingredients in the production of pastry
just goods made from pastry. Bakery products and desserts and bakery items.
are explored in greater detail in Chapters 13, 15 and 16. The principal ingredients of pastry products are flour, fat,
There is a range of pastes, all vital components of pastry sugar, raising agents, eggs and cream. These ingredients
work. Each type of paste is included in this chapter, along form the basis of the various types of pastry products that
with several recipes that use it. are produced in this chapter. The type of pastry produced
depends on the characteristics required. For example,
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short pastry is crisp and savoury, whereas puff pastry protein. When flour is mixed with water it is converted into a
is made from light layers of fine paste, separated by butter sticky dough. This characteristic is due to the gluten, which
or a pastry fat that produces steam to push the layers becomes sticky when moistened. The relative proportion of
apart during the baking process. The other types of pastry starch and gluten varies in different wheats; those with a low
covered are forms of sweet paste, containing the crisp percentage of gluten (soft flour) are not suitable for bread
characteristics of short pastry but with a richer and sweeter making. For this reason, wheat is blended.
flavour. Choux paste is used in the production of éclairs,
In milling, the whole grain is broken up, the parts separated,
profiteroles and choux buns, whereas suet paste is used to
and then sifted, blended and ground into flour. Some of
produce steamed puddings, rolls and dumplings that can
the outer coating of bran is removed, as is the wheatgerm,
be either sweet or savoury.
which contains oil and is therefore likely to become rancid
and spoil the flour. For this reason wholemeal flour should
Flour not be stored for more than 14 days.
Flour is probably the most common commodity in daily
use. It forms the foundation of bread, pastry and cakes, and Types of flour
is one of the most important ingredients in patisserie, if not l White flour contains 72–85 per cent of the whole grain
the most important. (the endosperm only).
l Wholemeal flour contains 100 per cent of the whole
There is a great variety of high-quality flours made from
grain.
cereals, nuts or legumes, such as chestnut flour, cornflour,
l Wheatmeal flour contains 85–95 per cent of the whole
and so on. They have been used in patisserie, baking, dessert
grain.
cuisine and savoury cuisine in all countries throughout
l High-ratio or patent flour contains 40 per cent of the
history. The most commonly used and most versatile flour,
whole grain.
particularly in Western cuisine, is wheat flour.
l Self-raising flour is white flour that has had baking
powder (usually bicarbonate of soda and tartaric acid)
Wheat flour added to it.
Wheat flour is composed of starch, gluten, sugar, fats, water l Semolina is granulated hard flour prepared from the
and minerals. central part of the wheat grain. White or wholemeal
l Starch is the main component.
semolina is available.
l Gluten is also a significant element. Elastic and
impermeable, it is the gluten that makes wheat flour the
most common flour used in bread making.
Storing flour
Flour is a particularly delicate living material so it must be
l The quantity of sugar in wheat is very small but it plays
used and stored carefully. It must always be in the best
a very important role in fermentation.
condition, which is why storing large quantities is not
l Wheat contains a maximum of only 16 per cent water,
recommended.
but its presence is important.
l The mineral matter (ash), which is found mainly in It must be kept in a clean, well-organised, disinfected and
the husk of the wheat grain and not in the kernel, aerated storeroom. It must never be stored in warm and
determines the purity and quality of the flour. humid places.
Wheat goes through several distinct processes from the ear
to the final product, flour. These are usually carried out in Fats
modern industrial plants, where wheat is subjected to the Pastry goods may be made from various types of fat, either
various treatments and phases necessary for the production a single named fat or a combination. Examples of fats are
of different types of flour. These arrive in perfect condition butter, margarine, shortening and lard.
at our workplaces to be made into items such as sponge
cakes, yeast dough, puff pastries, biscuits, pastries and Butter
much more.
Butter brings smoothness, rich perfumes and aromas, and
impeccable textures to pastry items. Butter is an emulsion
The production of flour – the perfect interaction of water and fat. It is composed of
White flour is made up almost entirely of the part of the wheat a minimum of 82 per cent fat, a maximum of 16 per cent
grain known as the endosperm, which contains starch and water and 2 per cent dry extracts.

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Here are some important facts about butter: Fondant is a cooked mixture of sugar and glucose which,
l Butter is the most complete fat. when heated, can be coloured and flavoured, and used for
l It is a very delicate ingredient that can quickly spoil if a decorating cakes, buns, gâteaux and petits fours. Fondant is
series of basic rules are not followed in its use. generally bought ready-made.
l It absorbs odours very easily, so it should be kept well
covered and should always be stored far from anything Inverted sugar
that produces strong odours. When sucrose is broken down with water, in a chemical
l When kept at 15 °C, butter is stable and retains all its process called hydrolysis, it separates into the two types
properties: finesse, aroma and creaminess. of sugar that make it: fructose and glucose. Sugar that has
l It should not be kept too long: it is always better to been treated in this way is called inverted sugar and is, after
work with fresh butter. sucrose, one of the most commonly used sugars in the
l Good-quality butter has a stable texture, pleasing taste, catering profession, thanks to its sweetening properties.
fresh odour, homogenous (even) colour and, most
importantly, it melts perfectly in the mouth. Inverted sugar is used because:
l It improves the aroma of products.
l It softens preparations such as cookies and petits fours,
l It improves the texture of doughs.
and keeps products like sponge cakes soft and moist.
l It prevents the dehydration of frozen products.
l Butter enhances flavour – as in brioches, for example.
l It reduces or stops crystallisation in ice cream making,
l The melting point of butter is between 30 °C and 35 °C.
improves smoothness and lowers its freezing point.
Margarine
Margarine is often made from a blend of oils that have been
Glucose
hardened or hydrogenated (with the addition of hydrogen Glucose takes on various forms:
l the characteristics of a viscous syrup, called crystal
gas). Margarine may contain up to 10 per cent butterfat.
glucose
Cake margarine is a blend of hydrogenated oils to which l its natural state, in fruit and honey
an emulsifying agent is added that helps combine water l a dehydrated white paste (used mainly in the
and fat. Cake margarine may contain up to 10 per cent commercial food industry, but also used in catering).
butterfat.
Glucose syrup:
Pastry margarine is used for puff pastry. It is a hard plastic l is a transparent, viscous paste
or waxy fat that is suitable for layering. l prevents the crystallisation of boiled sugars, jams and
preserves
Shortening l delays the drying of a product
Shortening is the term for some other fats used in pastry l aids consistency and creaminess in ice cream and the
making. It is made from oils and is 100 per cent fat. Examples fillings of chocolate bonbons
of shortening include hydrogenated lard and rendered l prevents the crystallisation of ice cream.
pork fat.
Honey
Sugar Honey is the oldest known form of sugar. It is a very sweet,
viscous syrup produced when bees extract nectar from
Sugar (or sucrose) is extracted from sugar beet or sugar cane.
flowers. It is 30 per cent sweeter than sucrose and generally
The juice is crystallised by a complicated manufacturing
has is light golden-brown appearance, although the colour
process and then refined and sieved into several grades,
varies depending on the species of bee, the flower from
such as granulated, caster or icing sugars. Syrup and treacle
which the nectar is collected and the type of honey this
are also produced as by-products during the production of
produces.
refined sugar.
Honey lowers the freezing point of ice cream. It can also
Loaf or cube sugar is obtained by pressing the crystals
be used like inverted sugar, but it is important to take into
together while they are slightly wet, drying them in blocks,
account that, unlike inverted sugar, honey will give its flavour
and then cutting the blocks into squares.
to the preparation. Also, it is inadequate for preparations that
require long storage, since honey recrystallises over time.

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Isomalt products such as scones, for example. Sour milk can also
Isomalt is a sweetener that has been used by the food be added along with the baking soda as a separate ‘natural’
manufacturing industry for many years in the production component of the leavening.
of confectionery (sweets and gums). It has properties Baking powder contains baking soda and an acid in the
distinct from those of the sweeteners already mentioned. form of salt crystals that dissolve in water. Ground dry starch
It is produced through the hydrolysis of sugar followed is also added to prevent premature reactions in humid air
by hydrogenation (the addition of hydrogen). Produced by absorbing moisture, and to dilute the powder.
through these industrial processes, this sugar is perfect for
Most baking powders are ‘double acting’ – that is, they
confectionery and chewing gum production, but it is now
produce an initial set of gas bubbles when the powder is
being used far more widely in the professional kitchen.
mixed into the batter and then a second set during the
One of its most notable characteristics is that it can melt baking process. The first and smaller reaction is necessary
without the addition of water or another liquid. This is a to form many small gas bubbles in the batter or dough; the
very interesting property for making artistic decorations in second is necessary to expand these bubbles to form the
cooked sugar. Its appearance is like that of confectioners’ final light texture. This second reaction must happen late
sugar: a glossy powder. Its sweetening strength is half that enough in the baking for the surrounding materials to have
of sucrose and it is much less soluble than sugar, which set, preventing the bubbles from escaping and the product
means that it melts less easily in the mouth. from collapsing.
Isomalt’s main advance in professional patisserie work over Baking powder is made from alkali (bicarbonate of soda)
the past few years has been as a replacement for normal plus acid (cream of tartar – potassium hydrogen tartrate).
sugar or sucrose when making sugar decorations, blown Commercial baking powders differ mainly in their
sugar, pulled sugar or spun sugar. Isomalt is not affected by proportions of the acid salts. Cream of tartar is not normally
air humidity, so sugar pieces will keep for longer. used due to its high cost, so calcium phosphate and
glucono delta-lactone are now commonly used in its place.
Raising agents
Raising agents are added to cake and bread mixtures to Water vapour
give lightness to the product, because they produce gases Water vapour is produced during the baking process from
that expand when heated. The gases produced are air, the liquid content used in the mixing. Water vapour has
carbon dioxide or water vapour. These gases are introduced approximately 1,600 times the volume of the original water,
before baking or are produced by substances added to the but its raising power is slower than that of a gas. This method
mixture before baking. When the product is cooked, the is used in the production of choux pastry, puff pastry, rough
gases expand. These gases are trapped in the gluten of the puff and flaky pastry, as well as batter products.
wheat flour. The product rises and sets on further heating
and cooking because of the pressure of the gluten. Using raising agents
l Always buy a reliable brand of baking powder.
Baking powder l Store in a dry place in an airtight tin.
Chemical raising agents cause a reaction between certain l Do not store for long periods of time: baking powder
acidic and alkaline compounds, which produce carbon loses some of its residual carbon dioxide over time and
dioxide. The alkaline component is almost always sodium therefore will not be as effective.
bicarbonate or sodium acid carbonate, commonly known l Check the recipe carefully, making sure that the correct
as baking soda. It is ideal because it is cheap to produce, preparation for the type of mixture is used, otherwise,
easily purified, non-toxic and naturally tasteless. Potassium under- or over-rising may result.
bicarbonate is available for those on low-sodium diets, but l Sieve the raising agent with the flour and/or dry
this compound tends to absorb moisture, react prematurely ingredients to give an even mix, and thus an even
and give a bitter flavour. reaction.
l Distribute moisture evenly into the mixture to ensure
Baking powder may be used without the addition of acid if even action of the raising agent.
the dough or batter is already acidic enough to react with it l If a large proportion of raising agent has been added to a
to produce carbon dioxide. Yoghurt and sour milk contain mixture, and is not to be cooked immediately, keep it in a
lactic acid and often are used in place of water or milk in cool place to avoid too much reaction before baking.

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Too much raising agent causes: Milk is homogenised to disperse the fat evenly, since the fat
l over-risen products that may collapse, giving a sunken has a tendency to rise to the surface (see ‘Cream’, below).
effect
Here are some useful facts about milk.
l a coarse texture
l Pasteurised milk has a better taste and aroma than UHT
l poor colour and flavour
milk.
l fruit sinking to the bottom of the cake
l Milk is useful for developing flavour in sauces and
l a bitter taste.
creams, due to its lactic fermentation.
Insufficient raising agent causes: l Milk contributes to colour as well as to the development
l lack of volume of texture and aroma in doughs.
l insufficient lift l Because of its lactic ferments, it helps in the maturation
l close texture of doughs and creams.
l shrinkage. l Milk is much more fragile than cream. In recipes, adding
it in certain proportions is advisable for a much more
Eggs subtle and delicate final product.
l Other types of milk, such as sheep and goat’s milk, can
Eggs are an important and versatile ingredient in pastry be very interesting to use in desserts.
work. Hens’ eggs are graded in four sizes – small, medium,
large and very large (see Chapter 6). For the recipes in this
chapter, use medium-sized eggs (approximately 50 g), Cream
unless otherwise stated. Cream is the concentrated milk fat that is skimmed off the
top of the milk when it has been left to sit. A film forms on
Eggs are used in pastry work because of their binding,
the surface because of the difference in density between
emulsifying and coating properties. Eggs also add both
fat and liquid. This process is speeded up mechanically in
protein and fat, thus improving the nutritional value and
large industries by heating and using centrifuges. Cream
flavour of the product.
is used in many recipes because of its great versatility and
capabilities.
Milk Cream should contain at least 18 per cent butterfat. Cream
Full-cream, skimmed or semi-skimmed milk can be used for for whipping must contain more than 30 per cent butterfat.
the desserts in this chapter. Commercially frozen cream is available in slabs, typically
Milk comes in many forms and is a basic element of the ranging from 2 kg to 10 kg. Types, packaging, storage and
diet for many people throughout the world. Milk from cows uses of cream are listed in Table 14.1.
is most commonly used in the production of patisserie Whipping and double cream may be whipped to make
products, although other types of milk are being used more them lighter and to increase volume. Cream will whip more
frequently due to their nutritional properties and reduced easily if it is kept at refrigeration temperature. Indeed, all
allergenic risk (goat’s milk ice cream, for example). cream products must be kept in the refrigerator for health
Milk consists of water, sugar and fat (with a minimum fat and safety reasons. They should be handled with care and,
content of 3.5 per cent). It is essential in many products, from as they will absorb odour, they should never be stored near
creams, ice creams, yeast doughs, mousses and custards to onions or other strong-smelling foods.
ganaches, cookies, tuiles and muffins. A yeast dough will As with milk, there are two main methods for conserving
change considerably in texture, taste and colour if it is made cream:
with milk instead of water. l Pasteurisation – the cream is heated to between
Milk has a slightly sweet taste and little odour. Two distinct 85 °C and 90 °C for a few seconds then cooled quickly;
processes are used to conserve it: this cream retains all its flavour properties.
l Pasteurisation – the milk is heated to between 73 °C l Sterilisation (UHT) – this consists of heating the
and 85 °C for a few seconds, then cooled quickly to 4 °C. cream to between 140 °C and 150 °C for two seconds;
l Sterilisation (UHT) – the milk is heated to between cream treated this way loses some of its flavour
140 °C and 150 °C for two seconds, then cooled quickly. properties, but it keeps for longer.

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Always use pasteurised cream when possible, for example l Cream adds texture.
in the restaurant when desserts are made for immediate l Once cream is boiled and mixed or infused with other
consumption. ingredients to add flavour, it will whip again if first left to
cool completely (when preparing a chocolate Chantilly,
Here are some useful facts about cream.
for example).
l Cream whips with the addition of air, thanks to its fat
l To whip cream well, it must be cold (around 4 °C).
content. This retains the air bubbles formed during
l Cream can be infused with other flavours when it is hot
beating.
or cold. The flavour of cream will develop if left to infuse
l Understand how to use fresh cream; remember that it is
prior to preparation.
easily over-whipped.

Table 14.1 Types of cream


Type of cream Legal minimum Processing and Storage Characteristics and
fat (%) packaging uses
Half cream 12 Homogenised; may be 2–3 days Does not whip; used for
pasteurised or ultra-heat pouring; suitable for low-
treated fat diets
Cream 18 Homogenised; 2–3 days in summer; A pouring cream suitable
(single cream) pasteurised and packaged 3–4 days in winter for coffee, cereals, soup
in bottles and cartons, under refrigeration or fruit; added to cooked
sealed with foil caps; may dishes and sauces; does
be available in bulk not whip
Whipping cream 35 Not homogenised; 2–3 days in summer; Ideal for whipping;
pasteurised and packaged 3–4 days in winter suitable for piping, cake
like single cream under refrigeration and dessert decoration;
used in ice cream, cake
and pastry fillings
Double cream 48 Slightly homogenised; 2–3 days in summer; A rich pouring cream; will
pasteurised and packaged 3–4 days in winter whip; floats on coffee or
like single cream under refrigeration soup
‘Thick’ double 48 Heavily homogenised; 2–3 days in summer; A rich, spoonable cream;
cream pasteurised and packaged 3–4 days in winter cannot be poured
like single cream; usually under refrigeration
only sold in domestic
quantities
Clotted cream 55 Heated to 82 °C then 2–3 days in summer; Very thick; has its own
cooled for 4½ hours; 3–4 days in winter special flavour and colour;
the cream crust is then under refrigeration used with scones, fruit
skinned off; packed in and fruit pies
cartons, usually by hand;
may be available in bulk
Ultra-heat 12 (half), 18 Homogenised; heated 6 weeks if unopened; A pouring cream
treated (UHT) (single) or 35 to 132 °C for 1 second, does not need
cream (whipping) then cooled immediately; refrigeration; usually
aseptically packaged in date stamped
polythene and foil-lined
containers; available in
catering-size packs

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Convenience products l Handle all equipment carefully to avoid cross-


contamination.
Convenience mixes, such as short pastry, sponge mixes
l Always work in a clean, tidy and organised way; clean all
and choux pastry mixes, are increasingly used in a variety of
equipment after use.
establishments. These products have improved enormously
l Take special care when using cream, and ensure
over the last few years and give the chef the opportunity
that products containing cream are stored under
to save on time and labour; with skill, imagination and
refrigerated conditions.
creativity, the finished products are not impaired.
l All piping bags must be sterilised after each use. Many
Not surprisingly many caterers, including some luxury kitchens use disposable plastic piping bags to avoid
establishments, have turned to using frozen puff pastry. It contamination and maximise freshness.
is available in squares and rectangles, ready rolled, thereby l Keep all small moulds clean and dry to prevent rusting.
avoiding the possibility of uneven thickness and the waste
that can occur when rolling out yourself. The large food
manufacturers dominate the frozen puff pastry market.
Preparation and cooking
Manufactured puff pastry is available in three types, techniques in pastry work
defined often by their fat content. The cheapest is made When handling ingredients for pastry work:
with the white hydrogenated fat, which gives the product a l check all weighing scales for accuracy
pale colour and a waxy taste. Puff pastry made with bakery l follow recipes carefully.
margarine has a better colour and, often, a better flavour.
The best-quality puff pastry is made with butter, giving a
richer texture, colour and flavour.
Adding fat to flour
Fats act as a shortening agent. The fat has the effect of
Pastry bought in blocks is cheaper than pre-rolled separate shortening the gluten strands in flour, which are easily
sheets, but has to be rolled evenly to give an even bake. broken when eaten, making the texture of the product
The sizes of sheets do vary with manufacturers and all are more crumbly. However, the development of gluten in puff
interleaved with greaseproof paper. pastry is very important as long strands are needed to trap
Filo pastry and feuille de brick are further examples of the expanding gases, and this is what makes the paste rise.
convenient pastry products. They are available in frozen Fat can be added to flour by:
sheets of various sizes. No rolling out is required and, once l Rubbing in by machine or by hand, for example, short
thawed, they can be used as required and moulded if pastry. When rubbing in it is much easier to produce a
necessary. fine crumb if the fat is cold.
As well as convenience pastry mixes, there is a whole l Creaming by machine or by hand, for example, sweet

range of frozen products suitable to serve as sweets and pastry. This is easiest to do if the fat is ‘plastic’ (i.e. at
afternoon tea pastries. These include fruit pies, flans, room temperature). Always cream the fat and sugar well
gâteaux and charlottes. The vast majority are ready to serve before adding the liquid.
once defrosted, but very often they require a little more l The flour batter method: for example, slab cakes.

decorative finish. The availability of such products gives l Lamination: for example, puff pastry.

the caterer the advantage of further labour cost reductions, l Boiling: for example, choux pastry.

permitting the chef to concentrate on other areas of


the menu. Blending
Blending means mixing all the ingredients carefully by
Storage and food safety weight.
l Store all goods according to the Food Safety and
Hygiene Regulations 2013. Eggs should be stored in a Handling pastry
refrigerator, flour in a bin with a tight-fitting lid, sugar Techniques used to work pastry include:
and other dry ingredients in air-tight storage containers. l Folding: for example, folding puff pastry to create its
l Check all storage temperatures are correct. layers, as in vol-au-vents or gâteau pithiviers.
l Make sure that storage containers are kept clean and l Kneading: using a mixing machine or your hands to
returned ready for reuse. On their return they should be work dough or puff pastry in the first stage of making.
hygienically washed and stored.

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l Relaxing: keeping pastry covered with a damp cloth,


cling film or plastic to prevent a skin forming on its
Cooking methods
The main cooking method used in the production of pastry
surface. A period of resting allows the gluten in the
products is baking. The time and temperature depend
pastry to relax and lose some of its resistance to rolling.
on the type of product being made. Pastry can also be
It will also help to prevent the pastry from shrinking
steamed to make products such as fruit pudding or rolls,
during the cooking process.
however, and certain pastes can also be deep-fried (samosa
l Shaping: producing flans, tartlets, barquettes and
and filo pastes, for example).
other such goods with pastry. Shaping also refers to
crimping with the back of a small knife using the thumb
technique. Other considerations when
Docking: piercing raw pastry with small holes to
l
prevent it from rising during baking, as when cooking
preparing pastry items
tartlets blind (without a filling). l Ensure all cooked products are cooled before finishing.
l Always plan your time carefully.
l Understand why pastry products must be rested
Rolling or relaxed and docked. This will prevent excessive
l Roll the pastry on a lightly floured surface; turn the shrinkage in the oven, while docking allows air
pastry regularly to prevent it sticking. Keep the rolling to escape through the product, preventing any
pin lightly floured and free from the pastry. unevenness.
l Always roll with care, treating the pastry lightly – never l Use silicone paper for baking in preference to
apply too much pressure. greaseproof.
l Always apply even pressure when using a rolling pin.
Finishing and presentation
Cutting It is essential that all products are finished according to the
l Always cut with a sharp, clean, damp knife. recipe requirements. Finishing and presentation is often a
l When using cutters, always flour them before use by key stage in the process as failure at this point can affect
dipping in flour. This will give a sharp, neat cut. the final appearance of the product. The way that goods
l Only use a lattice cutter on firm pastry; if the pastry is are presented is an important part of the sales technique.
too soft, you will have difficulty lifting the lattice. Each product of the same type must be of the same shape,
size, colour and finish. The decoration should be attractive,
delicate and in keeping with the product range. All piping
Glazing should be neat, clean and tidy.
A glaze is something that gives a product a smooth, shiny
surface. Examples of glazes used for pastry dishes are as Some methods of finishing and presentation are as follows:
follows: l Dusting: a light sprinkling of icing sugar on a product

l A hot clear gel produced from a pectin source, using a fine sugar dredger or sieve.
obtainable commercially, for finishing flans and tartlets; l Piping: using fresh cream, chocolate or fondant, for

always use while still hot. A cold gel is exactly the same example.
except that it is used cold. The gel keeps a sheen on the l Filling: with fruit, cream, pastry cream, etc. Avoid

goods and keeps out oxygen, which might otherwise overfilling as this can give the product a clumsy
cause discoloration. appearance.
l Apricot glaze, produced from apricot jam, acts in the
same way as hot gels. Piping fresh cream
l Egg wash, applied prior to baking, produces a rich glaze l Piping fresh cream is a skill and, like all other skills, it
during the cooking process. takes practice to become proficient. The finished item
l Icing sugar dusted on the surface of the product should look attractive, simple, clean and tidy.
caramelises in the oven or under the grill. l All piping bags should be sterilised after each use,
l Fondant gives a rich sugar glaze, which may be as these may well be a source of contamination;
flavoured and/or coloured. alternatively use a disposable piping bag.
l Water icing gives a transparent glaze, which may also be l Make sure that all the equipment you need for piping is
flavoured and/or coloured. hygienically cleaned before and after use to avoid cross-
contamination.

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Test yourself
1 What is the ratio of fat to flour for:
a short pastry
b puff pastry
c sugar pastry?
2 How is the fat added to the flour in the production of choux pastry?
3 What type of fat is required for the production of suet paste?
4 What is meant by the term ‘lamination’?
5 Name five examples of products that can be produced using puff pastry.
6 Other than éclairs and profiteroles, name three products that are made using
choux paste.
7 Name one pastry product, eaten as a dessert, which would be unsuitable for a
vegetarian customer.
8 Name the faults associated with the production of short pastry.
9 What is the classic filling for a gâteau pithiviers?
10 Name three fillings that can be used in the production of sweet tarts.

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Short pastry

1 Short paste (pâte à foncer)


Short pastry is used in fruit pies, Cornish pasties, etc.

Ingredient 400 g 850 g


Flour (soft) 250 g 500 g
Salt Pinch Large pinch
Butter or block/cake margarine 125 g 250 g
Water 40–50 ml 80–100 ml

1 Sieve the flour and salt. Add the 2 Start to rub the fat into the flour. 3 Continue to rub in.
butter in small pieces.

4 Stop rubbing in once the mixture 5 Make a well in the centre. Add 6 Work into a firm dough.
is crumbly and the lumps of butter water and start to mix it in.
are gone.

7 Knead into a ball. Handle as 8 Roll out the paste for use.
little and as lightly as possible.
Refrigerate until firm before rolling.

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Professional tip Variation


The amount of water used varies according to: For wholemeal short pastry, use wholemeal flour in
l the type of flour (a very fine soft flour is more place of half to three-quarters of the white flour.
absorbent)
l the degree of heat (for example, prolonged contact Short pastry for sweet dishes such as baked jam roll
with hot hands, or warm weather conditions). may be made with self-raising flour.

Different fats have different shortening properties. For Lard can be used in place of some or all of the fat
example, paste made with a high ratio of butter to other (the butter or cake margarine). Lard has excellent
fat will be harder to handle. shortening properties and would lend itself, in terms of
flavour, to savoury products, particularly meat-based
ones. However, many people view lard as an unhealthy
product as it is very high in saturated fat. It is also
unsuitable for anyone following a vegan or vegetarian
diet as it is an animal product.

Faults
Possible reasons for faults in short Soft–crumbly: Soggy:
pastry are detailed below. l too little water l too much water
l too much fat. l too cool an oven
Hard:
l baked for insufficient time.
l too much water Blistered:
l too little fat l too little water Shrunken:
l fat rubbed in insufficiently l water added unevenly l too much handling and rolling
l too much handling and rolling l fat not rubbed in evenly. l pastry stretched while handling.
l over-baking.

From left to right: correct, blistered and shrunken short paste

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2 Quiche lorraine (cheese and ham savoury flan) 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Short paste 100 g 250 g
Ham, chopped 75 g 150 g
Cheese, grated 50 g 125g
Egg 1 2½
Milk 125 ml 300 ml
Cayenne pepper
Sea-salt (e.g. Maldon)

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


2,955 kJ 704 kcal 48.4 g 22.6 g 38.1 g 6.5 g 31.6 g 1.8 g

1 Lightly grease an appropriately sized flan ring or 7 Return to the oven at 160 °C and bake gently for
barquette, or tartlet moulds if making individual approximately 20 minutes or until nicely browned
portions. Line thinly with pastry. and the egg custard mix has set.
2 Prick the bottom of the pastry two or three times
with a fork to dock. Variation

3 Cook in a hot oven at 200 °C for 3–4 minutes The filling can be varied by using lightly fried lardons of
bacon (in place of the ham), chopped cooked onions
or until the pastry is lightly set. Reduce the oven
and chopped parsley.
temperature to 160 °C.
A variety of savoury flans can be made by using
4 Remove from the oven; press the pastry down if it imagination and experimenting with different
has tended to rise. combinations (for example, stilton and onion; salmon
5 Add the chopped ham and grated cheese. and dill; sliced sausage and tomato).

6 Mix the egg, milk, salt and cayenne thoroughly.


Strain over the ham and cheese.

3 Fruit pie 

Ingredient 4–6 portions 10–15 portions


Fruit (see note) 400 g 1.5 kg
Sugar 100 g 250 g
Water 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Short paste 200 g 500 g
Egg wash

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


6,808 kJ 1,621 kcal 65.0 g 26.6 g 260.0 g 144.1 g 15.3 g 15.0 g

For an apple pie.

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1 Prepare the fruit, wash and place in a bowl. 9 Place the pie on a baking sheet and bake at
2 Add the sugar and water, and mix gently. (Place a 200 °C for 10 minutes; reduce the oven to 180 °C
clove in an apple pie.) and continue to bake for another 25–30 minutes.
If the pastry colours too quickly, cover it with a
3 Line an appropriately sized flan ring with two-
sheet of paper.
thirds of the pastry, leaving a third for the top.
10 Once cooked, allow to cool slightly before
4 Fill the lined ring with the fruit mixture.
removing the flan ring. Serve with custard, fresh
5 Dampen the edge of the pastry with a little water. cream or ice cream.
6 Roll out the reserved piece of pastry to cover the fruit.
7 Carefully lay the pastry on top of the fruit and Preparation of fruit for pies
firmly seal to the edge of the lined pastry. Cut off The pie may be filled with a single fruit or a combination
any surplus pastry. (This can be used to create such as blackberry and apple or damson and apple.
a lattice effect by running strips of pastry in l apples – peeled, quartered, cored, washed, cut in
diagonal lines across the pie – see picture.) slices
l cherries – stalks removed, stoned, washed
8 Brush the top of the pie with egg wash and l blackberries – stalks removed, washed
sprinkle with caster sugar. l gooseberries – stalks and tails removed, washed
l damsons – picked, stoned and washed
l rhubarb – leaves and root removed, tough strings
removed, cut into 2 cm pieces, washed.

4 Treacle tart 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Short paste 125 g 300 g
Treacle 100 g 250 g
Water 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Lemon juice 3–4 drops 8–10 drops
Fresh white bread or cake crumbs 15 g 50 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,100 kJ 262 kcal 10.7 g 5.8 g 41.1 g 20.3 g 2.8 g 0.8 g

1 Lightly grease an appropriately sized flan ring, or


Variation
barquette or tartlet moulds if making individual
portions. This tart can also be made in a shallow flan ring. Any
pastry debris can be rolled and cut into 0.5 cm strips
2 Line with pastry. and used to decorate the top of the tart before baking.
3 Warm the treacle, water and lemon juice; add the Try sprinkling with vanilla salt as a garnish.
crumbs.
4 Place into the pastry ring and bake at 170 °C for
about 20 minutes.

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Sweet pastry

5 Sugar paste (sweet paste, pâte à sucre)


Sugar pastry is used for products such as flans, fruit 3 Make a well in the centre of the flour. Add the
tarts and tartlets. sugar and beaten egg.
4 Gradually incorporate the flour and margarine or
Ingredient 400 g 1 kg
butter and lightly mix to a smooth paste. Allow to
Sugar 50 g 125 g rest before using.
Butter or block/cake margarine 125 g 300 g
Eggs 1 2–3 Method 2 – traditional French
Flour (soft) 200 g 500 g
sugar paste (creaming)
Salt Pinch Large pinch
1 Taking care not to over-soften, cream the butter
and sugar.
Method 1 – sweet lining paste 2 Add the beaten egg gradually and mix for a few
seconds.
(rubbing in)
3 Gradually incorporate the sieved flour and salt.
1 Sieve the flour and salt. Lightly rub in the Mix lightly until smooth.
margarine or butter to achieve a sandy texture.
4 Allow to rest in a cool place before using.
2 Mix the sugar and egg until dissolved.

1 Measure out the sugar and cut the 2 Cream the butter and sugar 3 Add the beaten egg in stages,
butter into small chunks. together. thoroughly mixing each time.

4 Incorporate the flour and salt. 5 Press into a tray and leave to chill. 6 The paste will need to be rolled
out before use in any recipe.

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Professional tip
The higher the percentage of butter, the shorter and
richer the paste will become. However, as the butter will
soften and melt during handling, the paste will become
softer and more difficult to work with. Therefore chilling
and light, quick handling are required when using a
sweet paste with a high butter content.
This also applies to the working environment. For example,
in a particularly warm kitchen, it will be more difficult to
work with a paste of this structure than in a cooler kitchen.
The butter in this recipe could be reduced from 125 g to
From left to right: short paste (recipe 1), rough puff paste
100 g to make handling easier.
(recipe 24) and sweet paste (recipe 5)

6 Flan cases
1 Allow 25 g flour per portion and prepare sugar 9 The rim can be left straight or moulded. Mould
pastry as per recipe 5. the edge with thumb and forefinger. Decorate
2 Grease a flan ring and baking sheet. either with pastry tweezers or with thumbs and
forefingers, squeezing the pastry neatly to form a
3 Roll the pastry out so that the circumference is
corrugated pattern.
2 cm larger than the flan ring. The pastry may
be rolled between cling film or greaseproof or
silicone paper. Video: lining a
flan
4 Place the flan ring on the baking sheet. http://bit.ly/
5 Carefully place the pastry on the flan ring by 17grHMP
rolling it loosely over the rolling pin, picking it up
and unrolling it over the flan ring.
6 Press the pastry into shape without stretching it, Baking blind
being careful to exclude any air. Some recipes call for the flan case to be baked blind,
7 Allow a 0.5 cm ridge of pastry on top of the flan ring. which means that it is baked before the filling is added. Line
the pastry case with cling film and fill with baking beans
8 Cut off the surplus paste by rolling the rolling pin (ceramic pie weights) or dried beans. Bake at 190 °C.
firmly across the top of the flan ring.

Place the pastry into the flan ring Firm the pastry into the bottom of the ring Bake blind, filled with beans, if the recipe requires

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7 Egg custard tart 

1 Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface, to


2 mm thickness. Use it to line a 20 cm flan ring,
placed on a baking sheet.
2 Line the pastry with food-safe cling film or
greaseproof paper and fill with baking beans.
Bake blind in a preheated oven at 190 °C for
about 10 minutes or until the pastry is turning
golden brown. Remove the paper and beans, and
allow to cool. Turn the oven down to 130 °C.
3 To make the custard filling, whisk together the
egg yolks and sugar. Add the cream and mix well.
4 Pass the mixture through a fine sieve into a
saucepan. Heat to 37 °C.

Ingredient 8 portions
5 Fill the pastry case with the custard to 0.5 cm
below the top. Place it carefully into the middle of
Sweet paste 250 g
the oven and bake for 30–40 minutes or until the
Egg yolks 9 custard appears to be set but not too firm.
Caster sugar 75 g
6 Remove from the oven and cover liberally
Whipping cream, gently warmed and infused with 2 500 ml with grated nutmeg. Allow to cool to room
sticks of cinnamon
temperature.
Nutmeg, freshly grated

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1998 kJ 482 kcal 39.0 g 22.0 g 27.0 g 15.8 g 6.4 g 0.6 g 0.2 g

8 Fruit tart, tartlets or barquettes 

Fruit tart Ingredient 4 portions


Sweet paste 250 g
Fruit (e.g. strawberries, raspberries, grapes, 500 g
blueberries)
Pastry cream
Glaze 5 tbsp

1 Line a flan ring with paste and cook blind at


190 °C. Allow to cool.
2 Pick and wash the fruit, then drain well. Wash and
slice/segment, etc. any larger fruit being used.
3 Pipe pastry cream into the flan case, filling it to the
rim. Dress the fruit neatly over the top.
4 Coat with the glaze. Use a glaze suitable for the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium fruit chosen, for example, with a strawberry tart,
1907 kJ 454 kcal 18.7 g 10.7 g 68.0 g 39.0 g 6.8 g 3.6 g 0.3 g use a red glaze.

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Faults

Although this strawberry tart may appear to be fine at The second photo shows the importance of ensuring that
first glance, the husks of the strawberries are visible. It fillings are prepared and/or cooked properly. In this case,
would be better to present the strawberries with their tops the crème pâtissière has not been cooked sufficiently
pointing upwards or sliced and overlapping. or prepared accurately as the filling is not structured
sufficiently to support the fruit once the tart has been cut.
There is also quite a wide gap between the rows of
strawberries, showing the crème pâtissière underneath.
This should be avoided.

Professional tip
Brush the inside of the pastry case with melted
couverture before filling. This forms a barrier between
the pastry and the moisture in the filling.

Tartlets
1 Roll out pastry 3 mm thick.
2 Cut out rounds with a fluted cutter and place
them neatly in greased tartlet moulds. If soft fruit
(such as strawberries or raspberries) is being
used, the pastry should be cooked blind first.
3 After baking and filling (or filling and baking) with
pastry cream, dress neatly with fruit and glaze
the top.
Certain fruits (such as strawberries and raspberries)
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium are sometimes served in boat-shaped moulds
690 kJ 165 kcal 8.7 g 2.7 g 21.1 g 6.3 g 2.0 g 1.2 g 0.1 g (barquettes). The preparation is the same as for
tartlets. Tartlets and barquettes should be glazed and
served allowing one large or two small per portion.

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9 Apple flan 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Sweet paste 100 g 250 g
Pastry cream (crème pâtissière) 250 ml 625 ml
(see recipe 36)
Cooking apples 400 g 1 kg
Sugar 50 g 125 g
Apricot glaze 2 tbsp 6 tbsp

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,428 kJ 340 kcal 13.8 g 5.8 g 53.8 g 36 g 3.5 g 2.9 g

1 Line a flan ring with sweet paste. Pierce the 5 Sprinkle a little sugar on the apple slices and bake
bottom several times with a fork. the flan at 200–220 °C for 30–40 minutes.
2 Pipe a layer of pastry cream into the bottom of 6 When the flan is almost cooked, remove the flan
the flan. ring carefully, return to the oven to complete the
3 Peel, quarter and wash the selected apple. cooking. Mask with hot apricot glaze or flan jelly.
4 Cut into neat thin slices and lay carefully on the
pastry cream, overlapping each slice. Ensure that
each slice points to the centre of the flan then no
difficulty should be encountered in joining up the
pattern neatly.

Pipe the filling neatly into the flan case Slice the apple very thinly for decoration Arrange the apple slices on top of the flan

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10 Lemon tart 

1 Prepare 200 g of sweet paste, adding the zest of


one lemon to the sugar.
2 Line a 20 cm flan ring with the paste.
3 Bake blind at 190 °C for approximately
15 minutes.
4 Prepare the filling: mix the eggs and sugar
together until smooth, add the cream, lemon juice
and zest. Whisk well.
5 Seal the pastry, so that the filling will not leak out.
Pour the filling into the flan case and bake for
30–40 minutes at 150 °C until just set. (Take care
when almost cooked as overcooking will cause
the filling to rise and possibly crack.)
Ingredient 8 portions 6 Remove from the oven and allow to cool.
Sweet paste 200 g 7 Dust with icing sugar and glaze under the grill or
Lemons Juice of 3, with a blowtorch. Portion and serve.
zest from 4
Eggs 8 Professional tip
Caster sugar 300 g If possible, make the filling one day in advance.
The flavour will develop as the mixture matures.
Double cream 250 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1907 kJ 456 kcal 25.0 g 13.4 g 53.0 g 44.0 g 8.5 g 0.5 g 0.2 g
Variation
Limes may be used in place of lemons. If so, use the
zest and juice of five limes or use a mixture of lemons
Note and limes.

The mixture will fill one 16 × 4 cm or two 16 × 2 cm flan


rings. If using two flan rings, double the amount of pastry
and reduce the baking time when the filling is added.

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11 Lemon meringue pie 

Ingredient 2 × 20 cm flan
rings
(16 portions)
Sweet paste flan cases 2
Granulated sugar 450 g
Lemons, grated zest 2
Fresh lemon juice 240 ml
Eggs, large 8
Large egg yolks 2
Unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 350 g
Meringue
Egg whites 6
Caster sugar 600 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


12,138 kJ 2,895 kcal 147.4 g 84.8 g 379.4 g 305.0 g 36.4 g 4.2 g

1 Place the sugar into a bowl and grate the zest of 4 At the first sign of boiling, remove from the heat.
lemon into it, rubbing together. Strain into a bowl and cool before filling the
2 Strain the lemon juice into a non-reactive pan. pastry cases.
Add the eggs, egg yolks, butter and zested sugar. 5 Make the meringue (see page 528). Pipe it on top
Whisk to combine. of the filled pie.
3 Place over a medium heat and whisk continuously 6 Colour in a hot oven at 220 °C.
for 3–5 minutes, until the mixture begins to thicken.

12 Pear and almond tart 

Ingredient 8 portions
Sweet paste 200 g
Apricot jam 25 g
Almond cream 350 g
Poached pears 4
Apricot glaze
Flaked almonds
Icing sugar

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1500 kJ 359 kcal 23.0 g 10.3 g 34.0 g 24.0 g 5.7 g 3.6 g 0.3 g

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1 Line a buttered 20 cm flan ring with sweet paste. 5 Score across the pears and arrange on top of
Trim and dock. the flan.
2 Using the back of a spoon, spread a little apricot 6 Bake in the oven at 200 °C for 25–30 minutes.
jam over the base. 7 Allow to cool, then brush with apricot glaze.
3 Pipe in almond cream until the flan case is two- 8 Sprinkle flaked almonds around the edge and
thirds full. dust with icing sugar.
4 Dry the poached pears. Cut them in half and
remove the cores and string.

13 Bakewell tart 

Ingredient 8 portions 1 Line a 20 cm flan ring using three-quarters of the


paste, 2 mm thick.
Sweet paste 200 g
Raspberry jam 50 g
2 Pierce the bottom with a fork.

Egg wash 1 egg


3 Spread with jam and the frangipane.
Apricot glaze 50 g 4 Roll the remaining paste, cut into neat 0.5 cm
strips and arrange neatly criss-crossed (lattice) on
Icing sugar 35 g
the frangipane; trim off surplus paste. Brush with
Frangipane (almond cream) 250g
egg wash.
5 Bake in a moderately hot oven at 200–210 °C for
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1308 kJ 313 kcal 18.5 g 8.6 g 34.0 g 24.0 g 5.0 g 1.5 g 0.2 g 30–40 minutes. Brush with hot apricot glaze.
6 When cooled, brush over with very thin water icing.
Sprinkle with flaked almonds.

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14 Mince pies 

Ingredient 12 small pies Mincemeat


Sweet paste 200 g
Mincemeat (see below) 200 g Ingredient

Egg wash 1 egg Suet, chopped 100 g

Icing sugar Mixed peel, chopped 100 g


Currants 100 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Sultanas 100 g
2,009 kJ 479 kcal 23.4 g 0.0 g 66.6 g 32.0 g 4.6 g 2.8 g 0.3 g

For a portion of two small pies. Raisins 100 g


Apples, chopped 100 g
1 Roll out the pastry 3 mm thick.
Barbados sugar 100 g
2 Cut half the pastry into fluted rounds 6 cm in
Mixed spice 5g
diameter.
Lemon, grated zest and juice of 1
3 Place on a greased, dampened baking sheet.
(Tartlet moulds may also be used.) Orange, grated zest and juice of 1

4 Moisten the edges. Place a little mincemeat in the Rum 60 ml


centre of each. Brandy 60 ml

5 Cut the remainder of the pastry into fluted rounds,


8 cm in diameter. 1 Mix the ingredients together.

6 Cover the mincemeat with pastry and seal the 2 Seal in jars and use as required.
edges. Brush with egg wash.
Variation
7 Bake at 210 °C for approximately 20 minutes.
Short or puff pastry may also be used. Various toppings
8 Sprinkle with icing sugar and serve warm. can also be added, such as crumble mixture or flaked
Accompany with a suitable sauce, such as custard, almonds and an apricot glaze.
brandy sauce or brandy cream.

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Choux pastry

15 Choux paste (pâte à choux)


Choux paste is used to make products such as éclairs,
profiteroles and gâteau Paris-Brest. Faults
Greasy and heavy paste:
Ingredient 750 g 1.5 kg l the basic mixture was over-cooked.
Water 250 ml 500 ml
Soft paste, not aerated:
Sugar Pinch Large pinch l flour insufficiently cooked
Salt Pinch Large pinch l eggs insufficiently beaten in the mixture
l oven too cool
Butter or block/cake margarine 100 g 200 g l under-baked.
Flour (strong) 150 g 300 g
Split or separated mixture:
Eggs 4–5 8–10 l egg added too quickly.

1 Bring the water, sugar, salt and fat to the boil in a


saucepan. Remove from the heat.
2 Add the sieved flour and mix in with a wooden spoon.
3 Return to a moderate heat and stir continuously
until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan. (This
is known as a panada.)
4 Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
5 Gradually add the beaten eggs, beating well. The choux buns on the left are light and well risen; those
Do not add all the eggs at once – check the on the right are poorly aerated.
consistency as you go. The mixture should just
flow back when moved in one direction (it may
not take all the egg). Video: making
choux paste
Variation http://bit.ly/
1Ldujdh
Wholemeal flour – 50 per cent, 70 per cent or 100 per
cent – may be used to make choux paste.

1 Cut the butter into cubes and melt 2 Add the flour. 3 When the panada is ready, it will
them in the water. start to come away from the sides.

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4 Add egg until the mixture is the 5 Pipe the paste into the shape 6 A selection of shapes in raw choux
right consistency – it should drop required – these rings could be paste.
from a spoon under its own weight. used for Paris-Brest (recipe 19).

16 Cream buns (choux à la crème) 

Ingredient Makes 10
buns
Choux paste 150 ml
Egg wash
Chopped almonds and/or nib sugar 35 g
Whipped cream/Chantilly cream 300 ml
Icing sugar, to serve

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
752 kJ 182 kcal 16.4 g 8.5 g 6.7 g 3.6 g 2.2 g 0.2 g 0.0 g

1 Place the choux paste into a piping bag with a 5 Allow to cool. Make a hole in the base of
1 cm plain tube. each bun.
2 Pipe pieces the size of a walnut on to a lightly 6 Fill with sweetened, vanilla-flavoured whipped
greased, dampened baking sheet. cream (Chantilly cream) using a piping bag and
3 Using a wet finger, gently press down any spikes small tube.
or peaks of paste to make round bulbs of paste, 7 Sprinkle with icing sugar and serve with
then egg wash. cream and fresh fruit such as strawberries or
4 Bake at 200–220 °C for about 30 minutes. raspberries.

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17 Profiteroles and chocolate sauce 

Ingredient 10 portions
Choux paste 200 ml
Chocolate sauce (see page 560) 250 ml
Chantilly cream 250 ml
Icing sugar, to serve

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


919 kJ 219 kcal 16.2 g 9.7 g 16.4 g 12.8 g 2.9 g 0.2 g

1 Spoon the choux paste into a piping bag with a


plain nozzle (approx. 1.5 cm diameter).
2 Pipe walnut-sized balls of paste on to the greased
baking sheet, spaced well apart. Level the peaked
tops with the tip of a wet finger.
3 Bake for 18–20 minutes at 200 °C, until well risen
and golden brown. Remove from the oven, transfer
Variation to a wire rack and allow to cool completely.
Coffee sauce may be served and the profiteroles filled 4 Make a hole in each and fill with Chantilly cream.
with non-dairy cream. Profiteroles may also be filled with 5 Dredge with icing sugar and serve with a
chocolate-, coffee- or rum-flavoured pastry cream.
sauceboat of cold chocolate sauce or coat the
profiteroles with the sauce.

18 Chocolate éclairs 

Ingredient 12 portions
Choux paste 200 ml
Whipped cream/Chantilly cream 250 ml
Fondant 100 g
Chocolate couverture 25 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


516 kJ 123 kcal 9.5 g 5.7 g 8.8 g 7.3 g 1.1 g 0.1 g

Variations
For coffee éclairs (éclairs au café) add a few drops
of coffee extract to the fondant instead of chocolate;
coffee éclairs may also be filled with pastry cream (see
page 476) flavoured with coffee.

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1 Place the choux paste into a piping bag with a 6 Warm the fondant, add the finely cut chocolate,
1 cm plain tube. allow to melt slowly, adjusting the consistency
2 Pipe into 8 cm lengths on to a lightly greased, with a little sugar and water syrup if necessary.
dampened baking sheet. Do not overheat or the fondant will lose its shine.
3 Bake at 200–220 °C for about 30 minutes. 7 Glaze the éclairs by dipping them in the fondant;
remove the surplus with the finger. Allow to set.
4 Allow to cool. Slit down one side, with a sharp knife.
Traditionally, chocolate éclairs were filled with chocolate
5 Fill with Chantilly cream (or whipped cream) using pastry cream.
a piping bag and small tube. The continental
fashion is to fill with pastry cream.

Pierce the éclair Pipe in the filling Dip the éclair in fondant; wipe the edges to
give a neat finish

19 Gâteau Paris-Brest 

Praline
1 Place the nuts on a baking sheet and toast until
evenly coloured.
2 Place the sugar in a large, heavy, stainless steel
saucepan. Set the pan over a low heat and allow
the sugar to caramelise. Do not over-stir, but do
not allow the sugar to burn.
3 When the sugar is lightly caramelised and
reaches a temperature of 170 °C, remove from the
heat and stir in the nuts.
4 Immediately deposit the mixture on a non-stick
silicone mat. Place another mat over the top and
Ingredient 8 portions roll as thin as possible.
Choux paste 5 Allow to cool completely. Break up and store in an
Crème diplomate (see page 476) 800 ml airtight container.
For the praline
Flaked almonds, hazelnuts and pecans (any combination) 375 g Paris-Brest
Granulated sugar 500 g 1 Pipe choux paste (recipe 15) into rings and bake.
2 Slice each ring in half. Fill with a mixture of crème
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
3,180 kJ 761 kcal 47.4 g 14.7 g 74.1 g 69.9 g 14.1 g 0.2 g diplomate or pastry cream and praline.

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20 Choux paste fritters (beignets soufflés) 

Ingredient Makes 8 1 Using two spoons of the same size, shape the
portions paste into quenelles.
Choux paste 125 ml 2 Place on to strips of lightly greased, greaseproof
Icing sugar or caster sugar, to serve paper.
Apricot sauce, to serve 125 ml 3 Lower the pieces into moderately hot deep fat at
170 °C. Allow to cook gently for 10–15 minutes.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre 4 Drain well and roll in the caster sugar. The sugar
344 kJ 82 kcal 3.9 g 1.3 g 11.5 g 8.8 g 0.9 g 0.2 g
can be flavoured at this point (ground cinnamon is
often used at this stage).
5 Serve with a sauceboat of hot fruit-based sauce.

Shape the fritter with two spoons Lower the fritters into hot oil on a strip of Lift them out with a spider
greaseproof paper

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Suet pastry

21 Suet paste

Suet paste is used for steamed fruit puddings, steamed


jam rolls, steamed meat puddings and dumplings.
1 Sieve the flour, baking powder and salt.
2 Mix in the suet. Make a well. Add the water.
3 Mix lightly to a fairly stiff paste.

Professional tip
Self-raising flour already contains baking powder so this
element could be reduced in the recipe if using self-
raising flour.
Vegetarian suet is also available to enable products to
be meat-free.

Ingredient 400 g 1 kg
Flour (soft) or self-raising flour 200 g 500 g Faults
Baking powder 10 g 25 g Heavy and soggy paste:
Salt Pinch Large pinch l cooking temperature may have been too low.

Prepared beef or vegetarian suet 100 g 250 g Tough paste:


l handled too much or over-cooked.
Water 125 ml 300 ml

22 Steamed fruit puddings

10 individual
puddings or 1
large pudding
Suet paste (see recipe 21) 300 g
Fruit 1 kg
Sugar 200 g
Water 60 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
975 kJ 231 kcal 6.3 g 3.1 g 44.0 g 33.0 g 1.8 g 2.6 g 0.1 g

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1 Grease a basin or individual moulds. 7 Cover with greased greaseproof paper, a pudding
2 Line the moulds, using three-quarters of the paste. cloth or foil.
3 Add the prepared and washed fruit and the sugar. 8 Steam for about 1½ hours (large basin) or
(Add between one and two cloves in an apple 40 minutes (individual moulds).
pudding.) Serve with custard.
5 Add water. Moisten the edge of the paste.
Variation
6 Cover with the remaining quarter of the paste and
Steamed fruit puddings can be made with apple, apple
seal firmly. and blackberry, rhubarb, rhubarb and apple, and so on.

Puff pastry

23 Puff paste (French method)

Ingredient Makes approx. 8 Knead the remaining butter/margarine to


1.5 kg the same texture as the dough. This is most
Flour (strong) 560 g important – if the fat is too soft it will melt and
Salt 12 g
ooze out, if it is too hard it will break through the
paste when being rolled.
Pastry butter or pastry margarine 60 g
9 Place the butter or margarine on the centre
Water, ice-cold 325 ml
square, which is four times thicker than the flaps.
Lemon juice, ascorbic or tartaric acid, or white vinegar A few drops
10 Fold over the flaps.
Pastry butter or pastry margarine 500 g
11 Roll out to 30 cm × 15 cm, cover with a cloth or
1 Sieve the flour and salt together. plastic and rest for 5–10 minutes in a cool place.

2 Rub in the 60 g of pastry butter/pastry margarine. 12 Roll out to 60 cm × 20 cm, fold both the ends to
the centre, and fold in half again to form a square.
3 Make a well in the centre.
This is one double turn.
4 Add the cold water and lemon juice or acid (to
13 Allow to rest in a cool place for 20 minutes.
make the gluten more elastic), and knead well into
a smooth dough in the shape of a ball. 14 Half-turn the paste to the right or the left.

5 Relax the dough in a cool place for 30 minutes. 15 Give one more double turn and allow to rest for
20 minutes.
6 Cut a cross halfway through the dough and pull
out the corners to form a star shape. 16 Give two more double turns, allowing to rest
between each.
7 Roll out the points of the star square, leaving the
centre thick. 17 Allow to rest before using.

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Rub the first batch of butter into the flour Mix in the water and lemon juice Knead into a smooth dough

Roll the dough out into a cross shape Knead the remaining butter in a plastic bag, Fold over each flap
then place it on the centre of the dough

Roll into a neat rectangle, then take each end Fold again from the top end of the paste to These photos have shown one double turn.
and fold to meet in the centre the bottom When resting the turned and folded paste,
leave an indented finger mark on the surface
to show the number of turns completed

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Professional tip Faults


l Care must be taken when rolling out the paste to
keep the ends and sides square.
l When rolling between each turn, always roll with the
folded edge to the left.
l The addition of lemon juice (or other acid) helps
to strengthen the gluten in the flour, thus helping
to make a stronger dough, so that there is less
likelihood of the fat oozing out.
l The rise is caused by the fat separating layers of
paste and air during rolling. When heat is applied by
the oven, steam is produced, causing the layers to The pastry on the left is unevenly laminated. Possible
rise and give the characteristic flaky formation. This is reasons for this:
aeration by lamination. l The paste was not folded equally.
l The paste was rolled too thinly.
l Reused scraps of paste were used, instead of
making up a virgin paste.

24 Rough puff paste

Ingredient 475 g 1.2 kg 4 Add the liquid and mix to a dough. The dough
should be fairly tight at this stage.
Flour (strong) 200 g 500 g
5 Turn on to a floured table and roll into an oblong
Salt 1 large pinch 2 large pinches
strip, about 30 × 10 cm, keeping the sides square.
Butter or block/cake margarine 150 g 375 g
(lightly chilled) 6 Give one double turn (as for puff pastry).
Water, ice-cold 125 ml 300 ml 7 Allow to rest in a cool place, covered with cloth or
Lemon juice, ascorbic or tartaric acid 10 ml 25 ml plastic for 30 minutes.
8 Give three more double turns, resting between
1 Sieve the flour and salt. each. (Alternatively, give six single turns.) Allow to
2 Cut the fat into small pieces and lightly mix them rest before using.
into the flour without rubbing in.
3 Make a well in the centre. Professional tip
Each time you leave the paste to rest, gently make
finger indentations, one for each turn you have made.

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Make a well in the centre of the flour and Mix to a fairly stiff dough Roll out and fold the ends to the middle
butter and add the liquid

Keep rolling, folding and turning The finished paste, ready to rest and then use

25 Puff pastry cases (bouchées, vol-au-vents)

4 Dip a plain cutter of a slightly smaller diameter into


hot fat or oil and make an incision 3 mm deep in
the centre of each.
5 Allow to rest in a cool place.
6 Bake at 220 °C for about 20 minutes.
7 When cool, remove the caps or lids carefully and
remove all the raw pastry from inside the cases.

Professional tip
Bouchées are filled with a variety of savoury fillings
and are served hot or cold. They may also be filled with
creams or curds as a pastry.
Ingredient Makes 12
bouchées/6 Larger versions are known as vol-au-vents. They may
vol-au-vents be produced in one-, two-, four- or six-portion sizes; a
Puff paste 200 g single-sized vol-au-vent would be approximately twice
the size of a bouchée. When preparing one- and two-
Egg wash
portion sized vol-au-vents, the method for bouchées
may be followed. When preparing larger vol-au-vents, it
1 Roll out the pastry to approximately 5 mm thick. is advisable to have two layers of puff pastry, each 5 mm
2 Cut out with a round, fluted cutter of the size thick, sealed together with egg wash. One layer should
be a plain round, and the other of the same diameter
required.
with a circle cut out of the centre.
3 Place on a greased, dampened baking sheet;
egg wash.

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26 Cheese straws (paillettes au fromage) 

Ingredient 8–10 portions 16–20


portions
Puff paste or rough puff paste 100 g 250 g
Cheese, grated 50 g 125 g
Cayenne pepper

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


2,562 kJ 610 kcal 48.1 g 24.1 g 28.7 g 0.6 g 17.4 g 1.4 g

1 Roll out the pastry to 60 × 15 cm, 3 mm thick.


2 Sprinkle with the cheese and cayenne pepper.
3 Roll out lightly to embed the cheese.
4 Cut the paste into thin strips by length.
5 Twist each strip to form rolls in the strip.
6 Place on a silicone mat.
7 Bake in a hot oven at 230–250 °C for 10 minutes
or until a golden brown. Cut into lengths as
required.

27 Sausage rolls 

Ingredient Makes 12 ×
8 cm rolls
Puff paste 200 g
Sausage meat 400 g
Egg wash

1 Roll out the pastry to 3 mm thick into a strip


10 cm wide.
2 Shape the sausage meat into a roll 2 cm in diameter.
3 Place the sausage meat on to the pastry. Moisten
the edges of the pastry.
4 Fold over and seal. Cut into 8 cm lengths.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
799 kJ 190 kcal 15.9 g 5.8 g 7.9 g 0.2 g 4.3 g 0.4 g 5 Mark the edge with the back of a knife. Brush
with egg wash.
6 Place on to a greased, dampened baking sheet.
7 Bake at 220 °C for approximately 20 minutes.

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28 Gâteau pithiviers 

1 Divide the paste into four equal pieces. Roll out each
piece in a circle with a 22 cm diameter, 4 mm thick.
2 Rest in the fridge between sheets of cling film,
preferably overnight.
3 Lightly butter two baking trays and splash with water.
Lay one circle of paste on to each tray and dock them.
4 Mark a 16 cm diameter circle in the centre of each.
5 Beat the pastry cream, if desired, and mix it with
the frangipane.
6 Using a plain nozzle, pipe the cream over the
inner circles, making them slightly domed.
7 Egg wash the outer edges of the paste. Lay one
Ingredient 2 × 22cm
gâteaux of the remaining pieces over the top of each one,
smooth over and press down hard.
Puff paste 1 kg
8 Mark the edges with a round cutter. Cut out a
Pastry cream 60 g
scallop pattern with a knife or use a cut piping
Frangipane 600 g
nozzle as shown in the photo sequence.
Egg wash (yolks only)
9 Egg wash twice. Mark the top of both with a
Granulated sugar spiral pattern.
10 Bake at 220 °C for 10 minutes. Remove from the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1453 kJ 349 kcal 25.8 g 9.4 g 25.6 g 10.4 g 5.3 g 1.7 g 0.4 g oven and sprinkle with granulated sugar. Turn the
For 1⁄10 of one gâteau. oven down to 190 °C and bake for a further 20 to
25 minutes.
11 Glaze under a salamander.

Adding the filling to the rolled base Trimming the edge Marking the top

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29 Palmiers 

Ingredient Note
Puff paste (see page 465)
Palmiers are usually made from leftover or off-cuts of
Caster sugar puff pastry. As a more biscuit-like property is sought,
Egg wash
previously rolled pastry can be utilised because the
rise required is not as much as in products such as
bouchées and vol-au-vents.
1 Roll out puff pastry into a square 3 mm thick.
2 Sprinkle liberally with caster sugar on both sides
and roll into the pastry. Variation
3 Fold into three from each end so as to meet in the Puff pastry trimmings are suitable for this recipe.
Palmiers may be made in a wide variety of sizes. Two
middle; brush with egg wash and fold in two.
joined together with a little whipped cream may be
4 Cut into strips approximately 2 cm thick; dip one served as a pastry or small ones for petits fours. They
side in caster sugar. may be sandwiched together with soft fruit, whipped
cream and/or ice cream and served as a sweet.
5 Place on a greased baking sheet, sugared
side down, leaving a space of at least 2 cm
between each.
6 Bake in a very hot oven for about 10 minutes.
7 Turn with a palette knife, cook on the other side
until brown and the sugar is caramelised.

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30 Pear jalousie 

1 Roll out two-thirds of the pastry 3 mm thick


into a strip 25 × 10 cm and place on a greased,
dampened baking sheet.
2 Pierce with a docker. Moisten the edges.
3 Pipe on the frangipane, leaving 2 cm free all the
way round. Place the pears on top.
4 Roll out the remaining one-third of the pastry to
the same size. Chill before cutting.
5 Cut the dough with a trellis cutter to make a
lattice.
6 Carefully open out this strip and neatly place on to
the first strip.
Ingredient 8–10 portions
7 Trim off any excess. Neaten and decorate the
Puff paste 200 g
edge. Brush with egg wash.
Frangipane 200 g
8 Bake at 220 °C for 25–30 minutes.
Pears, poached or tinned (cored and cut in half 5
lengthways) 9 Glaze with apricot glaze. Dust the edges with
icing sugar and return to a very hot oven to glaze.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,178 kJ 282 kcal 17.8 g 5.1 g 27.2 g 17.5 g 3.8 g 0.8 g

31 Puff pastry slice (mille-feuilles) 

1 Roll out the pastry 2 mm thick into an even-sided


square.
2 Roll up carefully on a rolling pin and unroll on to a
greased, dampened baking sheet.
3 Dock well.
4 Bake in a hot oven at 220 °C for 15–20 minutes;
turn over after 10 minutes. Allow to cool.
5 Using a large knife, cut into three even-sized
rectangles.
6 Keeping the best strip for the top, pipe the pastry
Ingredient 10 portions cream on one strip.
Puff pastry trimmings 600 g 7 Place the second strip on top and pipe with
Pastry cream 400 ml pastry cream.
Apricot glaze 8 Place the last strip on top, flat side up. Press gently.
Brush with boiling apricot glaze to form a key.
Fondant 350 g
Chocolate 100 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2013 kJ 479 kcal 22.0 g 8.2 g 69.0 g 49.0 g 5.8 g 1.1 g 0.4 g

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Decorate by feather icing: 6 Allow to set and trim the edges neatly.
1 Warm the fondant to 37 °C (warm to the touch) 7 Cut into even portions with a sharp, thin-bladed
and correct the consistency with sugar syrup if knife; dip into hot water and wipe clean after
necessary. each cut.
2 Pour the fondant over the mille-feuilles in an 8 For a traditional finish, crush the pastry trimmings
even coat. and use them to coat the sides.
3 Immediately pipe the melted chocolate over the
fondant in strips, 0.5 cm apart. Variation

4 With the back of a small knife, wiping after each Whipped fresh cream may be used as an alternative to
pastry cream.
stroke, mark down the slice at 2 cm intervals.
The pastry cream or whipped cream may also be
5 Quickly turn the slice around and repeat in the same
flavoured with an orange liqueur if desired.
direction with strokes in between the previous ones.

Pipe cream between layers of pastry Ice the top with fondant Decorate with chocolate

32 Fruit slice (bande aux fruits) 

Ingredient 8–10 portions


Puff paste 250 g
Fruit (see note) 400 g
Pastry cream 250 ml
(approximately)
Apricot glaze 2 tbsp

1 Roll out the pastry 2 mm thick in a strip 12 cm wide.


2 Place on a greased, dampened baking sheet.
3 Moisten two edges with egg wash; lay two
1.5 cm-wide strips along each edge.
4 Seal firmly and mark with the back of a knife.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
847 kJ 202 kcal 10.3 g 3.5 g 26.0 g 14.3 g 3.2 g 1.6 g 0.2 g Prick the bottom of the slice.
5 Depending on the fruit used, either put the fruit
(such as apple) on the slice and cook together,
Variation
or cook the slice blind and afterwards place the
Alternative methods are to use: pastry cream and fruit (such as tinned peaches)
l short or sweet pastry for the base and puff pastry for
on the pastry. Glaze and serve as for flans.
the two side strips
l sweet pastry in a slice mould. Fruit slices may be prepared from any fruit suitable for
flans/tarts.
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33 Cream horns 

Ingredient Makes 16
Puff paste 250 g
Egg wash
Icing sugar, to sprinkle
Jam 50 g
Caster sugar 50 g
Vanilla pod/vanilla extract Seeds from 1
pod/a few drops
Cream 500 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


735 kJ 176 kcal 14.9 g 8.6 g 9.8 g 6.3 g 1.2 g 0.2 g

1 Roll out the pastry to 2 mm thick, 30 cm long. 8 Place a little jam in the bottom of each.
2 Cut into 1.5 cm-wide strips. Moisten on one side. 9 Add the sugar and vanilla to the cream and whip
3 Wind the strips carefully round lightly greased until firm peaks form.
cream horn moulds, starting at the point and 10 Place in a piping bag with a star tube and pipe a
carefully overlapping each round slightly. neat rose into each horn.
4 Brush with egg wash on one side and place on a
greased baking sheet. Variation

5 Bake at 220 °C for about 20 minutes. These may also be partially filled with pastry cream, to which
various flavourings or fruit may be added. For example:
6 Sprinkle with icing sugar and return to a hot oven l praline l raspberries
for a few seconds to glaze. l chocolate l strawberries
l coffee l mango
7 Remove carefully from the moulds and allow to cool.
l lemon l orange segments.

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34 Eccles cakes 

Ingredient 12 cakes
Puff paste or rough puff paste 300 g
Egg white, to brush

Caster sugar, to coat


Filling
Butter 50 g
Raisins 50 g
Demerara sugar 50 g
Currants 200 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
887 kJ 212 kcal 10.7 g 4.6 g 28.0 g 21.0 g 2.3 g 1.6 g 0.2 g Mixed spice (optional) pinch

1 Roll out the pastry 2 mm thick. 5 Brush the top with egg white and dip into caster
2 Cut into rounds 10–12 cm diameter. Damp the edges. sugar.
3 Mix together all the ingredients for the filling and place 6 Place on a greased baking sheet.
1 tbsp of the mixture in the centre of each round. 7 Cut two or three incisions with a knife so as to
4 Fold the edges over to the centre and completely show the filling.
seal in the mixture. 8 Bake at 220 °C for 15–20 minutes.

35 Apple turnovers (chausson aux pommes) 

Ingredient Makes 12
Puff paste 300 g
Dry, sweetened apple purée 250 g
Egg white, to brush
Caster sugar, to coat

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
353 kJ 84 kcal 4.4 g 2.0 g 10.4 g 4.4 g 1.5 g 0.1 g 0.0 g

1 Roll out the pastry to 2 mm thick.


2 Cut into 8 cm diameter rounds.
3 Roll out slightly oval, to 12 × 10 cm.
4 Moisten the edges and place a little apple purée
in the centre of each.
5 Fold over and seal firmly.
Variation
6 Brush with egg white and dip in caster sugar.
Other types of fruit may be included in the turnovers,
such as apple and mango; apple and blackberry; apple 7 Place sugar-side up on a dampened baking sheet.
and passion fruit; and apple, pear and cinnamon. 8 Bake in a hot oven, 220 °C, for 15–20 minutes.

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Fillings

36 Pastry cream (crème pâtissière)

Left to right: pastry cream, crème diplomat and crème chiboust

Ingredient Makes Variation


approximately
750 ml The recipes below are based on the recipe for pastry
Milk 500 ml cream, with additional ingredients:
l Crème mousseline: beat in 100 g of soft butter.
Vanilla pod 1 The butter content is usually about 20 per cent of
Egg yolks 4 the volume but this can be raised to 50 per cent
depending on its intended use.
Caster sugar 125 g
l Crème diplomat: when the pastry cream is chilled,
Soft flour 75 g fold in an equal quantity of whipped double cream.
Custard powder 10 g l Crème chiboust: when the pastry cream mixture
has cooled slightly, fold in an equal quantity of Italian
meringue (recipe 42).
1 Heat the milk with the cut vanilla pod and leave to
infuse. Additional flavourings can also be added to pastry
cream, crème diplomat or crème chiboust.
2 Beat the sugar and egg yolks together until
creamy white. Add the flour and custard powder.
3 Strain the hot milk, gradually blending it into the
egg mixture. Professional tip
At step 4, the microwave may be used effectively.
4 Strain into a clean pan and bring back to the boil, Pour the mixture into a plastic bowl and cook in the
stirring constantly. microwave for 30-second periods, stirring in between,
5 When the mixture has boiled and thickened, pour until the mixture boils and thickens.
into a plastic bowl, sprinkle with caster sugar and
cover with cling film.
6 Chill over ice and refrigerate as soon as possible.
Ideally, blast chill.
7 When required, knock back on a mixing machine
with a little kirsch.

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37 Chantilly cream

Ingredient Makes 500 ml


Whipping cream 500 ml
Caster sugar 100 g
Vanilla essence/fresh vanilla pod A few drops to
taste/seeds from
1 vanilla pod

1 Place all ingredients in a bowl. Whisk over ice


until the mixture forms soft peaks. If using a
mechanical mixer, stand and watch until the
mixture is ready – do not leave it unattended as
the mix will over-whip quickly, curdling the cream.
2 Cover and place in the fridge immediately.

38 Buttercream

Ingredient 350 g
Icing sugar 150 g
Butter 200 g

1 Sieve the icing sugar.


2 Cream the butter and icing sugar until light and
creamy.
3 Flavour and colour as required.

Variation
l Rum buttercream – add rum to flavour and blend in.
l Chocolate buttercream – add melted chocolate,
sweetened or unsweetened according to taste.

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39 Boiled buttercream

Ingredient 750 ml
Eggs 2
Icing sugar 50 g
Granulated sugar or cube sugar 300 g
Water 100 g
Glucose 50 g
Unsalted butter 400 g

1 Beat the eggs and icing sugar until at ribbon


stage (sponge).
2 Boil the granulated or cube sugar with water and
glucose to 118 °C.
3 Gradually add the sugar at 118 °C to the eggs and
icing sugar at ribbon stage, whisk continuously
and allow to cool to 26 °C.
4 Gradually add the unsalted butter while continuing
to whisk until a smooth cream is obtained.

Variation
Buttercream may be flavoured with numerous flavours
and combinations of flavours, for example:
l chocolate and rum
l whisky and orange
l strawberry and vanilla
l lemon and lime
l apricot and passion fruit
l brandy and praline
l coffee and hazelnut.

1 Whisk the eggs. 2 Add the boiling sugar and water. 3 Add the butter.

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40 Frangipane (almond cream)

Ingredient 8 portions
Butter 100 g
Caster sugar 100 g
Eggs 2
Ground almonds 100 g
Flour 10 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
997 kJ 240 kcal 18.5 g 7.4 g 15.0 g 13.7 g 4.4 g 1.7 g 0.2 g

1 Cream the butter and sugar until aerated.


2 Gradually beat in the eggs.
3 Mix in the almonds and flour (mix lightly).
4 Use as required.

Variation
Try adding lemon zest or vanilla seeds to the recipe.

Cut the butter into small pieces and add to Cream the butter and sugar together Beat in the eggs before adding to the flour
the sugar

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41 Ganache

Ingredient Makes 750 g


to 1 kg
Version 1 (for decoration)
Double cream 300 ml
Couverture, cut into small pieces 350 g
Unsalted butter 85 g
Spirit or liqueur 20 ml
Version 2 (for a filling)
Double cream 300 ml
Vanilla pod ½
Couverture, cut into small pieces 600 g
Unsalted butter 120 g

1 Boil the cream (and the vanilla for Version 2) in a


heavy saucepan.
2 Pour the cream over the couverture. Whisk with a
fine whisk until the chocolate has melted.
3 Whisk in the butter (and the liqueur for Version 1).
4 Stir over ice until the mixture has the required
consistency.
The two versions have different textures. Version 1 is
ideal for truffles; version 2 for tortes or fillings.

42 Italian meringue

Ingredient Makes 250 g Makes 625 g


Granulated or cube sugar 200 g 500 g
Water 60 ml 140 g
Cream of tartar Pinch Large pinch
Egg whites 4 10

1 Boil the sugar, water and cream of tartar to hard-


ball stage of 121 °C. (To ensure the sugar is not
heated beyond this point, it is advisable to remove
from the heat at 115 °C as the sugar will continue
to rise in temperature, and this will provide a little
time to ensure the egg whites are whipped to the
correct point.)
2 While the sugar is cooking, beat the egg whites to
full peak and, while stiff, beating slowly, pour on
the boiling sugar.
3 Use as required.
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Boil the sugar Combine with the beaten egg whites The mixture will stand up in stiff peaks when
it is ready

43 Swiss meringue

Ingredient 10 portions 15 portions


Egg whites, pasteurised 190 ml 300 ml
Caster sugar 230 ml 340 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
426 kJ 100 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 24.0 g 24.0 g 2.1 g 0.0 g 0.0 g

1 Whisk the pasteurised egg whites and sugar over


a bain-marie of simmering water until a light and
aerated meringue is achieved.

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44 Apple purée

Ingredient 400 g 1 kg
Cooking apples 400 g 1 kg
Butter or margarine 10 g 25 g
Sugar 50 g 125 g

1 Peel, core and slice the apples.


2 Place the butter or margarine in a thick-bottomed
pan; heat until melted.
3 Add the apples and sugar, cover with a lid and
cook gently until soft.
4 Drain off any excess liquid and pass through a
sieve or liquidise.

45 Stock syrup

Ingredient 750 ml 1.5 litres


Water 500 ml 1.25 litres
Granulated sugar 250 g 625 g
Glucose 50 g 125 g

1 Boil the water, sugar and glucose together.


2 Strain and cool.

Professional tip
The glucose helps to prevent crystallising.

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15 Cakes, sponges, biscuits
and scones
This chapter is relevant to the following units:
➜ Prepare, cook and finish basic cakes, sponges, biscuits
and scones.

Recipes included in this chapter 13 Rich fruit cake 499


14 Lemon drizzle cake 500
No. Recipe Page Décor
Cakes and sponges 15 Apricot glaze 501
1 Victoria sandwich 490 16 Water icing (glacé icing) 501
2 Genoise sponge 491 17 Royal icing 502
3 Fresh cream and strawberry gâteau 492 18 Marzipan 502
4 Coffee gâteau 493 19 Praline 503
5 Chocolate genoise sponge 494 Biscuits
6 Chocolate gâteau 494 20 Sponge fingers (biscuit à la cuillère) 503
7 Roulade sponge 495 21 Tuiles 504
8 Swiss roll 496 22 Cats’ tongues (langues de chat) 505
9 Cup cakes 496 23 Cigarette paste cornets 506
10 Scones 497 24 Brandy snaps 507
11 Rock cakes 498 25 Piped biscuits (sablés à la poche) 508
12 Madeleines 498 26 Shortbread biscuits 509

The base ingredients for making cakes, biscuits and scones Blend together
Stage 1 Fat and caster sugar
are principally the same as those discussed in Chapter 14: (creaming)
flour, fat, sugar, raising agents, eggs and cream. However,
there is an endless list of possibilities in terms of additional
ingredients that could form part of the finished product, Stage 2 Colours, essences, spice or flavours Add
from chocolate, fondants, fruits and fruit products, through
to nuts and pralines.
Beaten, liquid egg
Stage 3 Add gradually
Cakes
(A little flour can be added to stabilise
the mixture, if necessary)

Preparation methods for cakes


There are three basic methods of making cake mixtures, Stage 4 Sieved flour Mix carefully
also known as cake batters. The working temperature of
cake batter should ideally be around 21 °C.
Other ingredients, e.g. dried fruit, nuts, Add according
Stage 5
Sugar batter method crystallised fruit, orange or lemon
peel, milk
to the recipe

For the sugar batter method, the fat (cake margarine, butter
or shortening) is blended in a machine with caster sugar. The sugar batter method
This is the basic or principal stage; the other ingredients are
usually then added in the order shown in the chart.

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Flour batter method


For the flour batter method, the eggs and sugar are whisked A humectant, something which helps the product to stay
to a half sponge; this is the basic or principal stage, which moist, may also be added (for example, glycerine); if so, this
aims to foam the two ingredients together until half the is added at stage 2.
maximum volume is achieved. Other ingredients are then
added as shown in the chart.

Stage 1 Sieved flour (with cocoa powder, baking powder, if required)

Part added to

Eggs and caster sugar whisked together to half volume


Stage 2
(glycerine may be added) Fold the eggs and sugar, in
three or four stages, into the
fat and flour, folding and
Equal quantities of cake margarine/fat and flour, blending carefully
Stage 3
creamed together

Stage 4 Fold in the remaining flour

Add other ingredients according to the recipe –


Stage 5
e.g. nuts, fruit, milk

The flour batter method

Blending method the mixing of the fat and flour to a crumbling texture. It is
essential that each stage of the batter is blended into the
The blending method is used for high-ratio cake mixtures.
next to produce a smooth batter, free from lumps. When
It uses high-ratio flour, specially produced so that it will
using mixing machines, it is important to remember to:
absorb more liquid. It also uses a high-ratio fat, made from
l blend initially on a slow speed
oil to which a quantity of emulsifying agent has been added,
l beat on a medium speed, using a paddle attachment.
enabling the fat to take up a greater quantity of liquid.
When blending, always clear the mix from the bottom of
High-ratio cakes contain more liquid and sugar, resulting in
the bowl to ensure that any first- or second-stage batter
a fine, stable crumb, extended shelf life, good eating and
does not remain in the bowl.
excellent freezing qualities. The principal or basic stage is

Stage 1
Flour and dry ingredients
Sieve together
Baking powder in cakes
(baking powder)
Baking powder may be made from one part sodium
bicarbonate to two parts cream of tartar. In commercial
Rub together to a
baking the powdered cream of tartar may be replaced by
Stage 2 Fat and flour
crumbly texture another acid product, such as acidulated calcium phosphate.
When used under the right conditions, with the addition of
liquid and heat, it produces carbon dioxide gas. As the acid
Stage 3 Sugar, dissolved in milk Add slowly
has a delayed action, only a small amount of gas is given off
when the liquid is added, and the majority is released when
the mixture is heated. Therefore, when cakes are mixed they
Stage 4 Beaten eggs Add do not lose the property of the baking powder if they are
not cooked right away.
The blending method

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Possible reasons for faults in resulting in a much heavier sponge. If butter, margarine
or oil is added, it is important that this is added at about
cakes 36 °C, otherwise overheating will cause the fat or oil to act
If your cake has an uneven texture, this may be because: on the flour and create lumps, which are difficult – often
l the fat was insufficiently rubbed in impossible – to get rid of.
l there was too little liquid
Stabilisers are often added to sponges to prevent them from
l there was too much liquid.
collapsing. The most common are ethyl methyl cellulose
If your cake has a close texture, this may be because: and glycerol monostearate; these are added to the eggs
l there was too much fat and sugar at the beginning of the mixing.
l your hands were too hot when rubbing in
l the fat to flour ratio was incorrect.
Making sponge cakes
If your cake is dry, this may be because: l You should never add flour or ground dry ingredients
l there was too little liquid to a batter until the end because they impede the air
l the oven was too hot. absorption in the first beating stage.
If your cake has a bad shape, this may be because: l When making sponge cakes, always sift the dry
l there was too much liquid ingredients (flour, cocoa powder, ground nuts, and so
l the oven was too cool on) to avoid clumping.
l there was too much baking powder. l Mix the flour in as quickly and delicately as possible
– rough addition of dry ingredients acts like a weight
If the fruit in the cake has sunk, this may be because:
on the primary batter and can remove part of the air
l the fruit was wet
already absorbed.
l there was too much liquid
l Flours used in sponge cakes are low in gluten content.
l the oven was too cool.
In certain sponge cakes a proportion of the flour can
If the cake has cracked, this may be because: be left out and substituted with cornstarch. This yields a
l there was too little liquid softer and more aerated batter.
l there was too much baking powder. l The eggs used in sponge cake batters should be fresh
and at room temperature so that they take in air faster.
Batters and whisked l Adding separately beaten egg whites produces a
lighter, fluffier sponge cake.
sponges l Once sponge cake batters are beaten and poured into
moulds or baking trays, they should be baked as soon
Batters and sponges allow the production of a large
as possible. Delays will cause the batter to lose volume.
assortment of desserts and cakes. Basically, they are a mix
of eggs, sugar, flour and the air incorporated when these
are beaten. Certain other raw materials can be combined – Preparation methods
for example, almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts, chocolate, butter, There are several methods of making sponge cake:
fruit, ginger, anise, coffee and vanilla. l Foaming method – whisking eggs and sugar together
Sponge mixtures are produced from a foam of eggs and to the ribbon stage; folding in/cutting flour.
sugar. The eggs may be whole or separated. Examples of l Melting method – as with foaming, but adding
sponge products include gâteaux, sponge fingers and melted butter, margarine or oil to the mixture at
sponge cakes. the final stage. The fat content enriches the sponge,
improves the flavour, texture and crumb structure, and
The egg white traps the air bubbles. When eggs and sugar will extend shelf life.
are whisked together, they thicken until a maximum volume l Boiling method – sponges made by this method
is reached; then flour is carefully folded in by a method have a stable crumb texture that is easier to handle and
known as cutting in. This is the most difficult operation, crumbles less when cut than the standard basic sponge
as the flour must not be allowed to sink to the bottom containing fat (known as Genoise sponge). This method
of the bowl, otherwise it becomes lumpy and difficult to will produce a sponge that is suitable for dipping in
clear. However, the mixture must not be stirred too much fondant. The stages are shown in the chart.
as this will disturb the aeration and cause the air to escape,

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Blending method – this is used for high-ratio


l
sponges, which follow the same principles as high-ratio
Possible reasons for faults in
cakes. As with cakes, high-ratio goods produce a fine, Genoise sponges
stable crumb, an even texture, excellent shelf life and If the sponge has a close texture, this may be because:
good freezing qualities. l the eggs and sugar were overheated
l Creaming method – this is the traditional method l the eggs and sugar were under-beaten
and is still used today for Victoria sandwich and light l there was too much flour
fruitcakes. The fat and sugar are creamed together, l the flour was insufficiently folded in
then beaten egg is added and, finally, the sieved flour is l the oven was too hot.
added with other dry ingredients as desired.
If the sponge is sunken, this may be because:
l Separate yolk and white method – this method is
l there was too much sugar
used for sponge fingers (recipe 20).
l the oven was too hot
Eggs and sugar beaten l the tin was removed during cooking.
Stage 1 together at 37°C to a
thick sponge Add to stage 2 in If the sponge is heavy, this may be because:
three or four parts, l the butter was too hot
beating well to
l the butter was insufficiently mixed in
produce a smooth
Butter heated until near batter l the flour was over-mixed.
Stage 2 boiling point; flour and
glycerine stirred in and
beaten to a smooth paste
The introduction of steam or
moisture
Stage 3 Use as required Some cakes require an injection of steam, otherwise they
become too dry while baking due to the dry atmosphere
The boiling method in the oven. Combination ovens are ideally suited for this
purpose. The steam delays the formation of the crust until
Possible reasons for faults in the cake batter has become fully aerated and the proteins
have set. Alternatively, add a tray of water to the oven while
sponges baking. If the oven is too hot, the cake crust will form early
If your sponge has a close texture, this may be because: and the cake batter will rise into a peak.
l it was not beaten enough
l there was too much flour
l the oven was too cool or too hot.
Points to remember when
If your sponge has a ‘holey’ texture, this may be because:
baking cakes and sponges
l Check all ingredients carefully.
l the flour was insufficiently folded in
l Make sure scales are accurate; weigh all ingredients
l the tin was unevenly filled.
carefully.
If the sponge has a cracked crust, this may be because the l Check ovens are at the right temperature and that the
oven was too hot. shelves are in the correct position.
If the sponge is sunken, this may be because: l Check that all work surfaces and equipment are clean.
l the oven was too hot l Check that all other equipment required, such as
l the tin was removed during cooking. cooling wires, is within easy reach.
l Always sieve flour to remove lumps and any foreign
White spots on the surface may indicate that it was not material.
beaten enough. l Make sure that eggs and fats are at room temperature.
l Check dried fruits carefully; wash, drain and dry if
necessary.
l Always follow the recipe carefully.

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l Always scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl when l Do not overwork the paste when mixing to combine.
creaming mixtures. The consequence of overworking the paste at this stage
l Always seek help if you are unsure. is that the gluten in the flour will strengthen and result
l Try to fill the oven space when baking by planning in the tightening of the paste. If this happens the paste
production carefully; this saves time, labour and money. will become very difficult to roll and is likely to shrink
l Never guess quantities. Time and temperature are during the baking process.
important factors; they too should not be guessed.
l The shape and size of goods will determine the baking Foaming
time and temperature: the wider and deeper the cake, This is where a foam is produced from egg whites, egg
the longer and more slowly it will need to bake. yolks or both. Sponge fingers are an example of a two-foam
l Where cake recipes contain a high proportion of sugar, mixture. Meringue is an example of a single-foam mixture
this will caramelise the surface quickly before the centre using egg whites. Great care must be taken not to over-mix
is cooked. Therefore cover the cake with sheets of the product.
silicone or dampened greaseproof paper and continue
to bake. Sugar batter method
l When cake tops are sprinkled with almonds or sugar,
Fat and sugar are mixed together to produce a light, aerated
the baking temperature needs to be lowered slightly to
cream. Beaten egg is added gradually. The dry ingredients
prevent over-colouring of the cake crust.
are then carefully folded in. Cats’ tongues and sablé biscuits
l When glycerine, glucose and inverted sugar, honey or
are made in this way.
treacle is added to cake mixtures, the oven temperature
should be lowered as these caramelise at a lower
temperature than sugar.
Flour batter method
Half the sieved flour is creamed with the fat. The eggs and
l Always work in a clean and hygienic way; remember the
sugar are beaten together before they are added to the
hygiene and safety rules, in particular the Food Safety
fat and flour mixture. Finally, the remainder of the flour is
and Hygiene Regulations, 2013.
folded in, together with any other dry ingredients. Some
l All cakes and sponges benefit from being allowed
types of cookies are made using this method.
to cool in their tins as this makes handling easier. If
sponges need to be cooled quickly, place a wire rack
over the top of the tin and invert, then remove the Blending method
lining paper and cool on a wire rack. This method requires the blending of all the ingredients
together to produce a smooth paste. It is used to make

Biscuits almond biscuits using a basic commercial mixture.

Preparation methods Convenience cake, biscuit


Biscuits and cookies may be produced by the following
methods: and sponge mixes
There is now a vast range of prepared mixes and frozen
Rubbing in goods available on the market. Premixes enable the caterer
Rubbing in is probably the best-known method and is used to calculate costs more effectively, reduce labour costs (with
to produce some of the most famous types of biscuits, such less demand for highly skilled labour) and limit the range of
as shortbread. The method is exactly the same as that for stock items that need to be held.
producing short pastry. Every year, more and more convenience products are
l Rub the fat into the flour by hand or by machine. introduced on to the market by food manufacturers. The
Dissolve the liquid and the sugar and mix into the flour caterer should be encouraged to investigate these products
to produce a smooth biscuit paste. and to experiment in order to assess their quality.

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Decorating and finishing Caster or granulated white sugar, Demerara, Barbados


or dark brown sugar can also be used, particularly if the
for presentation product is returned to the oven for glazing, glazed under a
salamander or glazed using a blow torch.
Fillings
Cakes, sponges and biscuits may be filled or sandwiched
together with a variety of different types of filling. Some
Other decorative media
examples are presented below. Remember that decorating is an art form and there is a
l Creams – buttercream (plain, flavoured and/or
range of equipment and materials available to assist you
coloured), pastry cream (flavoured and/or coloured), in this work. Some examples of decorative media are as
whipped cream, clotted cream. follows:
l Glacé and crystallised fruits – cherries, lemons, oranges,
l Fruit – fresh fruit purée, jams, fruit mousses, preserves,
fruit gels. pineapple, figs.
l Crystallised flowers – rose petals, violets, mimosa, lilac.
l Pastes and spreads – chocolate, praline, nut, curds.
l Crystallised stems such as angelica.
l Nuts – almonds (nibbed, flaked), coconut (fresh slices,
Spreading and coating desiccated), hazelnuts, brazil nuts, pistachio.
The top and sides of smaller cakes and gâteaux are l Chocolate – rolls, vermicelli, flakes, piping chocolate,
commonly covered with any of the following: chips.
l fresh whipped cream
l fondant
l chocolate
Piped biscuit pastes
l royal icing
Piped biscuits can be used for decoration. For example:
l cats’ tongues (recipe 22)
l buttercream
l piped biscuits (recipe 25).
l water icing
l meringue (French, Italian or Swiss)
l commercially manufactured preparations. Storing cakes, sponges,
Piping
biscuits and scones
Cakes, sponges, biscuits and scones are best eaten as
Piping is a skill that takes practice and there are many fresh as possible to enjoy them at their prime. However,
different types (plain or fluted) and sizes of piping tube if storage is required, care must be taken to ensure that
available, producing a variety of presentations. The the commodities making up the product are taken into
following may be used: consideration. For example, a product containing a high-
l royal icing
risk or fragile ingredient such as fresh cream must be kept
l meringue
chilled or frozen to prevent spoilage.
l chocolate
l boiled sugar Other products, such as biscuits, will lose their short, crisp
l fondant properties if not stored appropriately. Moisture in the
l fresh cream. atmosphere will become absorbed by such products and
this will start to break down the structure of the biscuit.

Dusting, dredging and sprinkling Sponges, particularly low-fat or fatless sponges, will tend to
dry out very quickly if they are left out in open air. Once a
These techniques are used to give products a final design
sponge is cut, the exposed sponge is extremely prone to
or glaze during cooking, using sugar. Light dusting is usually
drying, which is one reason why sponge products are often
performed with icing sugar or neige décor, an icing sugar
soaked with a flavoured syrup to prevent drying as well as
product resistant to humidity but used in the same way,
adding flavour.
using a very fine sieve.
l Dusting: a light dusting, giving an even finish.
l Dredging: heavier dusting with sugar.
l Sprinkling: a very light sprinkle of sugar.

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Cakes, sponges, biscuits and scones 15

Steps to take when storing cakes, sponges, biscuits and l Cakes, sponges, biscuits and scones can be frozen
scones to extend their shelf life are as follows: very effectively. It is important that the product is
l Store dry products such as biscuits and scones for short- cool before freezing. The product should be sealed
term consumption in clean, air-tight plastic containers. to prevent contact with air, removing as much air as
Store the containers in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area possible in the packaging itself. The product should
that has been designated for such products. then be labelled, dated and frozen, ensuring that stock
l Store products such as fresh fruit and/or cream cakes is easily identifiable and stock rotation procedures are
or sponges for short-term consumption in refrigerators, followed. A blast-freezer can be used to freeze rapidly
ensuring that they are covered with cling film or stored before placing into a holding freezer. This can help to
in air-tight containers. This will help to prevent the retain many of the quality points of such products, for
products from drying during storage. It is important to example, moisture retention.
note that sugars dissolve over time when stored and this
can lead to sogginess in products and weeping of fruits.

Test yourself
1 How much flour is required to produce a four-egg Genoise sponge?
2 Describe what is meant by the ‘creaming’ method.
3 Describe the production of sponge fingers (biscuit à la cuillère).
4 What is the ratio of fat to flour for shortbread biscuits?
5 Describe tuile biscuits and what they are used for.
6 Describe the preparation and baking of:
a madeleines
b sablés à la poche (piped biscuits).
7 List the ingredients and method for a traditional Victoria sandwich.
8 Give three possible reasons why a sponge might have a tight, close texture.
9 List the two components, and their ratios, that make up baking powder.
10 What is the benefit of the presence of steam when baking cakes and
sponges?

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Cakes and sponges

1 Victoria sandwich 

Ingredient 2 × 18 cm
cakes
Butter 250 g
Caster sugar 250 g
Soft flour 250 g
Baking powder 10 g
Eggs 5
Vanilla extract ½ tsp
Jam to fill

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


6,866 kJ 1,635 kcal 94.3 g 39.3 g 184.7 g 106.6 g 23.3 g 3.6 g

Using hard margarine in place of butter.

This is a classic afternoon tea cake named after Queen 5 Fold in the flour.
Victoria. Although traditionally made in two halves, a 6 Deposit into buttered and floured cake tins and
slimmer version can be made by using a single sponge level.
and splitting it.
7 Bake at 180 °C for approximately 15–20 minutes.
1 Cream the butter and sugar until soft and light.
8 Turn out on to a wire rack to cool.
2 Sieve the flour and baking powder twice.
9 Spread the bottom half with softened jam.
3 Mix together the eggs and vanilla extract.
10 Place on the top sponge and dust with icing
4 Beat the eggs gradually into the butter and sugar sugar.
mixture.

1 Beat the sugar and butter 2 Place the mixture into buttered 3 Flatten the top before baking.
together. cake tins.

Variation
In addition to jam, the sponge can be filled with either
butter icing or Chantilly cream.
The official Women’s Institute version specifies the cake is
filled with jam only and dusted with caster not icing sugar.

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2 Genoise sponge 

Ingredient Single sponge Double sponge 1 Whisk the eggs and sugar with a balloon whisk in
a bowl over a pan of hot water.
Eggs 4 10
2 Continue until the mixture is light and creamy and
Caster sugar 100 g 250 g
has doubled in bulk.
Flour (soft) 100 g 250 g
3 Remove from the heat and whisk until cold and
Butter, margarine or oil 50 g 125 g
thick (ribbon stage). Fold in the flour very gently.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
4 Take a small amount of the mixture and combine
5,978 kJ 1,423 kcal 65.8 g 25.6 g 182.8 g 106.6 g 36.5 g 3.6 g it with the melted butter. Then return this to the
Using hard margarine (4 portions). rest of the mixture and fold through.
5 Place in a greased, floured genoise mould.
Video: making a 6 Bake in a moderately hot oven, at 200–220 °C, for
genoise about 30 minutes.
http://bit.ly/
1znWjDj

1 Ingredients for Genoise sponge 2 Add the sugar to the eggs. 3 Whisk them together over boiling
and boiling water ready for use. water.

4 Carry on whisking as the mixture 5 When the mixture is ready, it will 6 Fold in the flour.
warms up. form ribbons and you can draw a
figure eight with it.

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7 Add part of the flour mixture to the 8 Place the mixture into greased 9 After baking, turn the sponges out
butter. cake tins. to cool on a rack.

3 Fresh cream and strawberry gâteau 

Ingredient 8 portions 1 Carefully slice the sponge cake into three equal
discs. Brush each with syrup.
Genoise sponge made with vanilla 1
2 Slowly whip the cream with the icing sugar to
Stock syrup (see page 482) 100 ml
achieve the correct consistency.
Raspberry jam 50 ml
3 Place the first piece of sponge on a cake board.
Whipping or double cream 500 ml
Soak with syrup. Spread with a layer of jam, then
Icing sugar 75 g a layer of cream. Scatter sliced strawberries on
Strawberries, sliced 1 punnet top.
4 Place the next piece of sponge on top. Repeat
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,975 kJ 473 kcal 28.4 g 11.1 g 53.0 g 39.7 g 4.5 g 0.9 g
the layers of syrup, cream and strawberries. Top
Based on 60 g of sponge per portion. with additional cream.
5 Place the final piece of sponge on top.
6 Coat the top and sides with cream. Chill.
7 Comb scrape the sides of the gâteau. Pipe 12
rosettes on top. Decorate with strawberries and
rounds of white chocolate.
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4 Coffee gâteau 

9 Starting in the centre and moving outwards, pour


over the fondant to completely cover. Draw a
palette knife across the top to remove the excess.
10 Add some melted chocolate to some of the
fondant, adjust the consistency and squeeze
through muslin. Decorate the gâteau by piping on
a fine line design.
11 Finish the sides with squares of chocolate and the
top with crystallised violets.

Professional tip
Mark the sponge by cutting a ‘v’ on the side before
splitting horizontally; when reassembling, line up the
marks so it goes back together exactly as it came apart.
Ingredient 1 × 16 cm Turn the sponge upside down before splitting so the
gâteau base becomes the top; this is the flattest surface and
Plain genoise sponge (recipe 2) 1 × 16 cm will give the best finish.
Stock syrup flavoured with rum 50 ml It is best practice to use a genoise that was made the
day before – fresh sponges do not cut well and are
Coffee buttercream 750 g
susceptible to falling apart.
Coffee marzipan 100 g
Fondant should never be heated above 30 °C, as the
Fondant 500 g shine will be lost.
Crystallised violets
Chocolate squares
Note
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
A good-quality coffee gâteau should have a moist
7881 kJ 1873 kcal 75.5 g 41.3 g 303.0 g 282.0 g 12.3 g 1.8 g 0.6 g
sponge and a good balance between sponge and
For ¼ of the sponge. filling (as a guide, the thickness of the sponge and the
1 Carefully split the sponge into three and line up depth of the buttercream should be equal). The coffee
flavour should not be in question, and the decoration
the three pieces.
should reflect and complement the coffee theme. (It is
2 Place the sponge base on a cake card and sometimes easy to get carried away, so it is good to
moisten with rum syrup. remember when decorating, ‘less is definitely more’.)
3 Pipe on an even layer of buttercream, no thicker
than that of the sponge. Variation
4 Place on the next layer of sponge, moisten with the Instead of enrobing with fondant, the top and sides can
syrup and repeat to give three layers of sponge and be covered with buttercream, the sides can be either
two of buttercream. Moisten the top with syrup. comb-scraped or masked with toasted nibbed/flaked
almonds or grated chocolate. The top can be piped with
5 Put in the fridge for 1–2 hours to firm up.
buttercream and/or decorated with coffee marzipan cut-
6 Work some coffee essence into the marzipan, out shapes.
roll out to 2 mm thick and lay over the gâteau, To add another texture, place a disc of meringue or
working the sides to prevent any creases. dacquoise on the bottom layer. Dacquoise is an Italian
7 Warm the fondant to blood heat, flavour with coffee meringue with the addition of toasted ground hazelnuts,
essence and adjust the consistency with syrup. spread or piped on to a silicone mat and baked at
180 °C for 15–20 minutes. Cut out the desired shape half
8 Place the gâteau on a wire rack with a tray way through cooking.
underneath to catch the fondant.

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5 Chocolate genoise sponge 


Ingredient 2 × 16 cm
sponges
Eggs 8
Caster sugar 225 g
Flour 175 g
Cocoa powder 50 g
Butter, melted 65 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1428 kJ 340 kcal 13.9 g 6.6 g 47.0 g 30.0 g 9.5 g 1.6 g 0.2 g

For ¼ of a sponge.

1 Whisk the eggs and sugar together to form a Make sure you have prepared all the equipment before
sabayon. you start.
2 Slowly fold in the flour and cocoa powder.
Variation
3 Take a small amount of the mixture and combine
it with the melted butter. Then return this to the For a lighter sponge, use 100 g of soft flour and 75 g of
cornflour.
rest of the mixture and fold through.
4 Place in a lined mould and bake at 180 °C for
15–20 minutes.

6 Chocolate gâteau 
Ingredient Single gâteau Double gâteau
Chocolate genoise sponge (recipe 5)
Eggs 4 10
Chocolate pieces 50 g 125 g
Stock syrup (see page 482), as
required
Chocolate glaze
Buttercream
Unsalted butter 200 g 500 g
Icing sugar 150 g 375 g
Block chocolate (melted in a basin 50 g 125 g
in a bain-marie)

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


20,113 kJ 4,789 kcal 260.9 g 148.7 g 606.0 g 533.2 g 41.6 g 4.8 g

Using hard margarine and butter (4 portions).

1 Cut the genoise into three slices crosswise. 4 Lightly spread each slice of genoise with
2 Prepare the buttercream and mix in the melted buttercream and sandwich together.
chocolate. 5 Lightly coat the top and sides with chocolate
3 Lightly moisten each slice of genoise with stock glaze, then decorate with chocolate pieces.
syrup, which may be flavoured with kirsch, rum, etc.
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7 Roulade sponge 

Professional tip
Each sheet should be left on the paper on which it is
cooked, individually wrapped, labelled, kept flat and
stored in the freezer to stop it from drying out and losing
flexibility.

Faults

You should be able to bend a roulade sponge

Ingredient 2 sheets 4 sheets


Eggs 8 16
Egg yolk 2 4
Caster sugar 260 g 520 g
Soft flour 170 g 340 g

1 Make sure the mixing bowl is clean, dry and free There are two reasons why a roulade sponge might
from grease. become hard and crisp, instead of being pliable:
l baked at too low a temperature for too long
2 Line the baking sheets with silicone paper cut to l mixture spread too thin.
fit.
3 Set the oven at 230 °C.
4 Place the eggs and sugar in a mixing bowl, and Variation
stir over hot water until warm. A chocolate version can be made by substituting 30–40
per cent of the flour for cocoa powder. For a coffee
5 Whisk to the ‘ribbon’ stage and sieve the flour on
sponge, add coffee extract to the eggs after whisking.
to greaseproof paper.
A roulade sponge may also be made using a ‘split-egg’
6 Carefully fold in the flour. method, separating the eggs.
7 Divide equally between the baking sheets and
spread evenly with a drop blade palette knife.
Place immediately in the oven for between 5 and
7 minutes.
8 As soon as the sponge is cooked, turn it out on
to sugared paper, place a damp, clean cloth over
it and lay the hot baking sheet back on top, then
leave to cool. (This will help keep the sponge
moist and flexible as it cools.)

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8 Swiss roll 

1 Whisk the eggs and sugar with a balloon whisk in


a bowl over a pan of hot water.
2 Continue until the mixture is light, creamy and
double in bulk.
3 Remove from the heat and whisk until cold and
thick (ribbon stage).
4 Fold in the flour very gently.
5 Grease a Swiss roll tin and line with greased
greaseproof or silicone paper.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 6 Pour in the mixture and bake at 220 °C for about
Eggs 4 10
6 minutes.
Caster sugar 100 g 250 g 7 Turn out on to a sheet of paper sprinkled with
additional caster sugar.
Self-raising flour 100 g 250 g
8 Remove the paper from the Swiss roll, spread
Jam, as required
with warm jam.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre 9 Immediately roll up as tight as possible and leave
4,445 kJ 1,058 kcal 25.3 g 8.0 g 182.7 g 106.5 g 36.5 g 3.6 g to cool completely.

9 Cup cakes 

Ingredient 20 portions
Flour (soft) or self-raising 200 g
Baking powder (if using plain flour) 1 level tsp
Salt (optional) pinch
Margarine or butter 125 g
Caster sugar 125 g
Eggs 2–3

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


947 kJ 225 kcal 11.6 g 4.8 g 28.8 g 13.4 g 3.3 g 0.7 g

Using hard margarine.

Method 1: rubbing in Method 2: creaming


1 Sieve the flour, baking powder and salt (if using). 1 Cream the margarine and sugar in a bowl until
2 Rub in the butter or margarine to achieve a sandy soft and fluffy.
texture. Add the sugar. 2 Slowly add the well-beaten eggs, mixing
3 Gradually add the well-beaten eggs and mix as continuously and beating really well between each
lightly as possible until combined. addition.
3 Lightly mix in the sieved flour, baking powder and
salt (if using).

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In both cases the consistency should be a light


dropping one and, if necessary, it may be adjusted
with the addition of a few drops of milk.

Variation
Cherry cakes: add 50 g glacé cherries cut in quarters Raspberry buns: divide basic mixture (method 1) into
and 3–4 drops vanilla essence to the basic mixture 8 pieces. Roll into balls, flatten slightly, dip tops into milk
(method 2) and divide into 8–12 lightly greased cake then caster sugar. Place on a greased baking sheet, make
tins or paper cases. Bake in a hot oven at 220 °C for a hole in the centre of each and add a little raspberry jam.
15–20 minutes. Bake in a hot oven at 200 °C for 15–20 minutes.
Coconut cakes: in place of 50 g flour, use 50 g Queen cakes: to the basic mixture (method 2) add 100 g
desiccated coconut and 3–4 drops vanilla essence to the washed and dried mixed fruit and cook as for cherry
basic mixture (method 2) and cook as for cherry cakes. cakes.

10 Scones 

1 Sieve the flour, baking powder and salt.


2 Cut the butter into small pieces and rub into the
flour to achieve a sandy texture.
3 Dissolve the sugar in the cream.
4 Add the liquid to the dry ingredients and cut
in with a plastic scraper, mix lightly and do not
overwork. Wrap in cling film and chill for 1 hour.
5 Set the oven at 180 °C and line a baking sheet
with silicone paper.
6 Roll out 2 cm thick on a floured surface, cut out
with a plain or fluted cutter.
7 Brush with milk or egg wash and bake at 180 °C
for approximately 15–20 minutes.
Ingredient 16 scones
8 After 15 minutes, pull one apart to test if they are
Plain flour 450 g cooked.
Baking powder 25 g 9 Allow to cool and dust with icing sugar before
Salt pinch serving.
Butter 225 g Scones are traditionally served at afternoon tea with
Caster sugar 170 g jam and butter or clotted cream, and are best served
on the day they are made.
Sour cream 300 ml

Variation
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1196 kJ 291 kcal 16.6 g 10.2 g 34.0 g 12.3 g 3.2 g 1.1 g 0.4 g Fruit scones: add 50 g sultanas to the basic mix, or try
Per scone. adding dried cranberries or apricots as alternatives.

Professional tip
After cutting out the scones, turn upside down on the
baking sheet. This will help them rise with straight sides.

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11 Rock cakes 

Ingredient Makes 16
Medium flour (50% soft and 50% strong flour) 500 g
Baking powder 30 g
Salt 3g
Caster sugar 125 g
Egg 60 g
Butter 120 g
Currants 90 g
Citrus peel 30 g
Milk 180 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Egg wash
913 kJ 217 kcal 8.7 g 3.6 g 33.6 g 14.3 g 3.4 g 1.3 g

Using hard margarine.


Caster sugar, to sprinkle

1 Sieve the flour, baking powder and salt through a 6 Divide the mixture into small portions, approximately
fine sieve. 70 g each, and place evenly on to a baking tray.
2 Dissolve the sugar in the liquid egg. 7 Egg wash and sprinkle with caster sugar.
3 Rub the butter into the flour to form a crumb mix. 8 Bake at 210 °C for 15–20 minutes, until light
4 Add the currants and citrus peel. golden brown.
5 Blend in the milk to achieve a smooth mix.
Variation
Add a small pinch of mixed spice.

12 Madeleines 

Ingredient Makes 45
Caster sugar 125 g
Eggs 3
Vanilla pod, seeds from 1
Flour 150 g
Baking powder 1 tsp
Beurre noisette 125 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
392 kJ 94 kcal 5.2 g 3.0 g 10.8 g 5.8 g 0.7 g 0.2 g 0.1 g

For two madeleines.

1 Whisk the sugar, eggs and vanilla seeds to a hot 4 Pipe into well-buttered madeleine moulds and
sabayon. bake in a moderate oven.
2 Fold in the flour and the baking powder. 5 Turn out and allow to cool.
3 Fold in the beurre noisette and chill for up to
2 hours.
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13 Rich fruit cake 

1 Cream the butter and sugar until soft and light.


2 Break up the eggs and beat in gradually.
3 Add the black treacle.
4 Sieve all the dry ingredients together and fold in.
5 Finally fold in the dried fruit and lemon zest.
6 Deposit into buttered cake tins lined with silicone
paper.
7 Level the mix and make a well in the centre.
8 Check the cakes during baking, turn to make sure
they are being cooked evenly.
9 Test to see if cooked with a metal skewer or
needle.
10 Allow to cool completely before wrapping and
storing in an airtight container.
Ingredient 16 cm 21 cm 26 cm
diameter, diameter, diameter, In the UK fruit cakes are traditionally used as a base
8 cm deep 8 cm deep 8 cm deep for celebration cakes such as Simnel and Christmas
Butter 150 g 200 g 300 g cakes, and for weddings.
Soft brown sugar 150 g 200 g 300 g
Professional tip
Eggs 4 6 8
This is a dense mixture. To prevent the outside
Black treacle 2 tsp 3 tsp 1 tbsp becoming overcooked insulate the cake tins by standing
Soft flour 125 g 175 g 275 g on newspaper and tying several layers of newspaper
around the sides.
Salt 6g 8g 10 g
The dried fruit can be pre-soaked in brandy or rum the
Nutmeg 3g 4g 5g
day before, or, as the cake matures it can be given a
Mixed spice 3g 4g 5g ‘drink’ every so often.
Ground cinnamon 3g 4g 5g Take a spoon and make a well in the centre of the
Ground almonds 75 g 100 g 125 g mixture, this will help stop the cake doming as it bakes.
Currants 150 g 200 g 300 g Unless filling the oven with cakes it is advisable to place
Sultanas 150 g 200 g 300 g a tray of water in the oven when baking. This will create
steam and allow the cake to expand before the crust sets.
Raisins 125 g 150 g 225 g
To test, insert a needle in the centre, when the cake is
Mixed peel 75 g 100 g 125 g
cooked the needle should come out clean and hot.
Glacé cherries 75 g 100 g 125 g
After cooling wrap in paper or foil and place in an airtight
Lemons, grated zest of ½ ¾ 1 container and leave to mature for 3–4 weeks before
Oven temperatures covering with marzipan and decorating with icing.
150 °C 140 °C 130 °C
Approximate cooking times
Variations
2 hours 3 hours 4½ hours
If using square cake tins, increase the quantities by a
quarter.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,367 kJ 563 kcal 24.8 g 11.3 g 81.9 g 69.4 g 8.8 g 2.8 g 0.6 g This cake can be made less rich by cutting down on the
fruit and spices – these are all ‘carried’ ingredients and
will not affect the cake as long as the basic ingredients
(butter, sugar, eggs, flour) are not tampered with.

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Faults

A B C D

Cake A is domed (‘cauliflower top’). This occurs if: Cake D has a low volume. This occurs if:
l the flour used is too strong l too much fat is added
l the oven is too hot and/or too dry l the mixture is too dry
l there is not enough fat l there is not enough aeration.
l the ingredients are over-mixed after adding flour.
A good-quality fruit cake will:
Cake B has a sunken top (‘M’ fault). This is caused by l have straight sides, a flat top and good height
adding too much baking powder and/or too much sugar. l have an even distribution of fruit
l be moist and dark.
Cake C has a sunken top and sides (‘X’ fault). This occurs
if the mixture is too wet.

14 Lemon drizzle cake 

Ingredient 2 × 16 cm
cakes
Butter 250 g
Caster sugar 400 g
Lemons, grated zest of 3
Soft flour 380 g
Baking powder 10 g
Eggs 4
Vanilla extract ½ tsp
Milk 25 ml
Syrup
Lemons, juice of 3
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1437 kJ 342 kcal 14.6 g 8.6 g 51.8 g 67.0 g 4.0 g 0.9 g 0.3 g Caster sugar 100 g
For ⁄8 of a cake, excluding icing.
1

1 Cream the butter, sugar and zest until soft and 7 Deposit into buttered and floured cake tins.
light. 8 Bake at 165 °C for approximately 45 minutes.
2 Sieve the flour and baking powder twice. 9 Boil the lemon juice and sugar.
3 Mix together the eggs and vanilla extract. 10 When the cake is cooked, stab with a skewer and
4 Beat the eggs into the butter and sugar mixture. pour over the syrup.
5 Fold in the flour. 11 Leave to cool in the tin.
6 Add milk to achieve a dropping consistency. This cake can be finished with lemon icing and
decorated with strips of crystallised lemon peel.

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Décor

15 Apricot glaze

Ingredient Makes 150 ml


Apricot jam 100 g
Stock syrup (see page 482) or water 50 ml

1 Boil the apricot jam with a little syrup or water.


2 Pass through a strainer. The glaze should be used
hot.

Professional tip
A flan jelly (commercial pectin glaze) may be used as an
alternative to apricot glaze. This is usually a clear glaze
to which food colour may be added.

16 Water icing (glacé icing)

Ingredient Makes 400 g


Icing sugar 400 g
Water, warm 60 ml

1 Sieve the icing sugar and start to add the warm


water; add the water until the icing is thick enough
to coat the back of a spoon.
2 If necessary, add more water or icing sugar to
adjust the consistency.

Variation
Water may be replaced with other liquids to add flavour
to the icing – for example, orange juice, mango juice,
lemon juice, apple juice, lime juice, grape juice, passion
fruit juice – or use a combination of juices with orange
liqueur, kirsch, rum, calvados, etc.

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17 Royal icing

Ingredient Makes 400 g


Icing sugar 400g
Pasteurised egg whites 3
Lemon, juice of 1
Glycerine 2 tsp

1 Sift the icing sugar. Mix it well with the egg whites
in a basin, using a wooden spoon.
2 Add a few drops of lemon juice and glycerine and
beat until stiff.

Professional tip
Modern practice is to use egg white substitute or
Note dried egg whites. Always follow the manufacturer’s
instructions for quantities.
This amount of royal icing (400 g) is enough to cover a
small (18 cm) cake.

18 Marzipan

1 Place the water and sugar in a pan and boil. Skim


as necessary.
2 When the sugar reaches 116 °C, draw aside and
mix in the ground almonds, then add the egg
yolks and almond essence, and mix in quickly to
avoid scrambling.
3 Knead well until smooth.

Ingredient Makes 400 g


Water 250 ml
Caster sugar 1 kg
Ground almonds 400 g
Egg yolks 3
Almond essence 2–3 drops
Marzipan may be shaped into fruits, figures, etc.

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19 Praline

Ingredient Makes 1 kg 1 Boil the sugar, water and glucose to a light


caramel.
Granulated sugar 500 g
2 Remove from the heat and immediately stir in the
Water 200 ml
nuts.
Glucose 100 g
3 Pour the mixture on a non-stick mat and cool until
Whole almonds 150 g
solid.
Hazelnuts 150 g
4 Break down to a fine powder using a food
processor.

Biscuits

20 Sponge fingers (biscuit à la cuillère)

1 Prepare a baking sheet by lining with silicone


paper cut to fit and set the oven at 160 °C. Have
ready a piping bag fitted with a medium plain
tube. Scald two mixing bowls to ensure they are
clean and free of grease.
2 Whisk the yolks, sugar and vanilla over a bain-
marie until warm, then continue whisking off the
heat until a thick, sabayon-like consistency is
reached.
3 Sieve the flours on to paper.
4 In a second mixing bowl, whisk the whites with
the sugar to a soft meringue.
5 Add the whisked yolks to the meringue and start
Ingredient Approximately
60 × 8 cm folding in. Add the flour in 2 or 3 portions, working
fingers quickly but taking care not to overwork the
Egg yolks 180 g mixture.
Caster sugar 125 g 6 Using a plain piping tube, immediately pipe on to
Vanilla essence Few drops the prepared baking sheet in neat rows.
Soft flour 125 g 7 Dust evenly with icing sugar and immediately
Cornflour 125 g place in the oven for approximately 25 minutes.
Egg whites 270 g 8 When cooked, slide the paper (and biscuits) on to
a cooling rack.
Caster sugar 125 g
9 When cool, remove from the paper and store in
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium an airtight container at room temperature, or leave
372 kJ 88 kcal 2.0 g 0.6 g 16.0 g 8.8 g 1.3 g 0.2 g 0.0 g on the paper and store in a dry cabinet.
For two biscuits.

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Note Professional tip


It is easier to pipe the fingers all the same length if a
The literal translation of this is ‘spoon biscuits’, which
template marked with parallel lines is placed under the
comes from a time when the mixture would have been
silicone paper.
shaped between two spoons instead of being piped.
They are traditionally used to line the mould for a A common problem with this recipe is over-mixing and/
Charlotte Russe, although the ‘spooned’ version would or not working fast enough or being disorganised,
not lend itself to that. which results in biscuits that collapse.
Sponge fingers should be pale in colour, very light
Variation in texture, be dusted with icing sugar and have a
rounded shape. They should also be identical in length
Chocolate: instead of 125 g each of soft flour and and width.
cornflour, use 120 g soft flour, 60 g cornflour and 70 g
cocoa powder.
Othellos: use the above recipe to make small,
domed sponges. Hollow them out and fill with crème
mousseline (see page 476). Sandwich pairs together
and coat with coloured fondant.

21 Tuiles 

Ingredient 15–20
portions
Butter 100 g
Icing sugar 100 g
Flour 100 g
Egg whites 2

1 Mix all ingredients; allow to rest for 1 hour.


2 Spread to the required shape and size.
3 Bake at approx. 200–210 °C.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium 4 While hot, mould the biscuits to the required
417 kJ 100 kcal 5.5 g 3.4 g 12.1 g 7.0 g 1.1 g 0.3 g 0.1 g shape and leave to cool.

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22 Cats’ tongues (langues de chat)

Pipe cats’ tongues into their distinctive shape, thicker at the ends

Ingredient Approximately 1 Lightly cream the sugar and butter, add the vanilla
40 essence.
Icing sugar 125 g 2 Add the egg whites one by one, continually
Butter 100 g mixing and being careful not to allow the mixture
Vanilla essence 3–4 drops to curdle.
Egg whites 3–4 3 Gently fold in the sifted flour and mix lightly.
Flour (soft) 100 g 4 Pipe on to a lightly greased baking sheet using a
3 mm plain tube, 2.5 cm apart.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium 5 Bake at 230–250 °C, for a few minutes.
676 kJ 161 kcal 8.3 g 5.2 g 20.7 g 13.2 g 2.1 g 0.4 g 0.1 g
6 The outside edges should be light brown and the
Based on a portion of 4 biscuits.
centres yellow.
7 When cooked, remove on to a cooling rack using
a palette knife.

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23 Cigarette paste cornets 

Ingredient Approximately 1 Proceed as for steps 1–3 of recipe 22 (cats’


30 tongues).
Icing sugar 125 g 2 Using a plain tube, pipe out the mixture on to a
Butter, melted 100 g lightly greased baking sheet into bulbs, spaced
Vanilla essence 3–4 drops well apart. Place a template over each bulb and
spread it with a palette knife.
Egg whites 3–4
3 Bake at 150 °C, until evenly coloured.
Soft flour 100 g
4 Remove the tray from the oven. Turn the cornets
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium over but keep them on the hot tray.
444 kJ 106 kcal 5.6 g 3.6 g 14.0 g 8.8 g 0.3 g 0.2 g 0.1 g
5 Work quickly while the cornets are hot and twist
For two biscuits.
them into a cornet shape using the point of a
cream horn mould. (For a tight cornet shape it
is best to set the pieces tightly inside the cream
horn moulds and leave them until set.) If the
cornets set hard before you have shaped them all,
warm them in the oven until they become flexible.
6 The same paste may also be used for cigarettes
russes, coupeaux and other shapes.

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24 Brandy snaps 

Ingredient Approximately 1 Combine the flour and ginger in a bowl on the


20 snaps scales. Make a well.
Strong flour 225 g 2 Pour in golden syrup until the correct weight is
Ground ginger 10 g reached.
Golden syrup 225 g 3 Cut the butter into small pieces. Add the butter
Butter 250 g and sugar.
Caster sugar 450 g 4 Mix together at a slow speed.
5 Divide into 4 even pieces. Roll into sausage
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium shapes, wrap each in cling film and chill,
2146 kJ 510 kcal 21.0 g 13.1 g 82.0 g 66.0 g 1.5 g 1.0 g 0.4 g
preferably overnight.
For two snaps.
6 Slice each roll into rounds. Place on a baking tray,
spaced well apart.
7 Flatten each round using a fork dipped in cold
water, keeping a round shape.
8 Bake in a preheated oven at 200 °C until evenly
coloured and bubbly.
9 Remove from oven. Allow to cool slightly, then lift
off and shape over a dariole mould.
10 Stack the snaps, no more than 4 together, on a
stainless steel tray and store.

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25 Piped biscuits (sablés à la poche) 

Ingredient 20–30 biscuits 1 Cream the sugar and butter until light in colour
and texture.
Caster or unrefined sugar 75 g
2 Add the egg gradually, beating continuously, add
Butter or margarine 150 g
the vanilla essence or lemon zest.
Egg 1
3 Gently fold in the sifted flour and almonds, mix
Vanilla essence 3–4 drops
well until suitable for piping. If too stiff, add a little
or beaten egg.
Grated zest of one lemon
4 Pipe on to a lightly greased and floured baking
Soft flour, white or wholemeal 200 g sheet using a medium-sized star tube (a variety of
Ground almonds 35 g shapes can be used).
5 Some biscuits can be left plain, some decorated
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
with half or whole almonds or neatly cut pieces of
993 kJ 237 kcal 15.2 g 8.2 g 23.3 g 8.4 g 3.4 g 0.8 g 0.2 g

Based on 2 biscuits.
angelica and glacé cherries.
6 Bake in a moderate oven at 190 °C for about
10 minutes.
7 When cooked, remove on to a cooling rack using
a palette knife.

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26 Shortbread biscuits 

Method 2
Ingredient 12 portions
Flour (soft), white or wholemeal 100 g
Rice flour 100 g
Butter or margarine 100 g
Caster or unrefined sugar 100 g
Egg, beaten 1

1 Sieve the flour and rice flour into a basin.


Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
507 kJ 121 kcal 7.0 g 4.4 g 14.1 g 4.6 g 1.2 g 0.5 g 2 Rub in the butter until the texture of fine
Using butter. breadcrumbs. Mix in the sugar.
3 Bind the mixture to a stiff paste using the beaten
Method 1 egg.
4 Roll out to 3 mm using caster sugar, prick well
Ingredient 12 portions with a fork and cut into fancy shapes. Place the
Flour (soft) 150 g biscuits on a lightly greased baking sheet.
Salt pinch 5 Bake in a moderate oven at 180–200 °C for
Butter or margarine 100 g 15 minutes or until golden brown.
Caster sugar 50 g 6 Remove with a palette knife on to a cooling rack.

1 Sift the flour and salt. Method 3


2 Mix in the butter or margarine and sugar with the
flour. Ingredient 12 portions
Butter or margarine 100 g
3 Combine all the ingredients to a smooth paste.
Icing sugar 100 g
4 Roll carefully on a floured table or board to the
shape of a rectangle or round, 0.5 cm thick. Place Egg 1
on a lightly greased baking sheet. Flour (soft) 150 g
5 Mark into the desired size and shape. Prick with a
fork. 1 Cream the butter or margarine and sugar
thoroughly.
6 Bake in a moderate oven at 180–200 °C for
15–20 minutes. 2 Add the egg and mix in. Mix in the flour.
3 Pipe on to lightly greased and floured baking
sheets using a large star tube.
4 Bake at 200–220 °C, for approximately
15 minutes.

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16 Cold and hot desserts
This chapter is relevant to the following units:
➜ Prepare, cook and finish basic cold and hot desserts.

Recipes included in this chapter 25 Baked apples (pommes bonne femme) 537
26 Apple charlotte 538
No. Recipe Page
27 Apple fritters (beignets aux pommes) 539
Cold desserts
28 Griottines clafoutis 540
1 Fresh fruit salad 518
29 Rice pudding 541
2 Poached fruits or fruit compote 519
30 Baked rice pudding (pouding de riz) 542
3 Crème caramel 520
31 Sticky toffee pudding 542
4 Crème brûlée 521
32 Cabinet pudding 543
5 Zabaglione (sabayon with Marsala) 522
33 Soufflé pudding 544
6 Fruit mousse 523
34 Chocolate fondant 544
7 Bavarois 524
35 Bread and butter pudding 546
8 Chocolate mousse 525
36 Apple crumble tartlets 547
9 Vanilla panna cotta served with stewed 526
rhubarb 37 Tarte tatin 548
10 Fruit fool 527 38 Steamed sponge pudding 549
11 Meringue 528 39 Golden syrup pudding 550
12 Vacherin with strawberries and cream 528 40 Christmas pudding 551
13 Lime soufflé frappe 529 41 Vanilla soufflé 552
14 Trifle 530 42 Mango soufflé 554
15 Lime and mascarpone cheesecake 531 43 Lemon curd flourless soufflé 555
16 Baked blueberry cheesecake 531 44 Baked Alaska 556
Iced desserts Sweet sauces
17 Vanilla ice cream 532 45 Sabyon sauce 557
18 Lemon curd ice cream 533 46 Fresh egg custard sauce (sauce à l’anglaise) 558
19 Peach Melba 534 47 Custard sauce 559
20 Pear belle Hélène 534 48 Fruit coulis 559
21 Apple sorbet 535 49 Strawberry sauce 560
22 Chocolate sorbet 535 50 Chocolate sauce 560
23 Raspberry parfait 536 51 Butterscotch sauce 561
Hot desserts 52 Caramel sauce 562
24 Pancakes with apple 537 53 Rum or brandy cream or butter 562

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Ingredients commonly l They act as a thickening agent, for example in crème


anglaise.
used in desserts l They act as an emulsifier in products such as
mayonnaise and ice cream.
There are many important ingredients used in the
production of desserts. Sugar provides the sweetness that
is associated with desserts, but it also plays other roles that Quality and nutritional value
affect texture, aroma and, depending on its form, it can also Important facts about eggs:
help to reduce the risk of crystallisation in products such l A fresh egg (in shell) should have a small, shallow air
as ice cream and dehydration of frozen products such as pocket inside it.
sponges. Eggs and other dairy products, such as milk and l The yolk of a fresh egg should be bulbous, firm and
cream, are also regular commodities found in desserts, as is bright.
salt, perhaps surprisingly, all of which are discussed below. l The fresher the egg, the more viscous (thick and not
runny) the egg white.
l Eggs should be stored away from strong odours as their
Sugar shells are porous and smells are easily absorbed.
For a detailed breakdown of the various forms of sugar and l In a whole 60 g egg, the yolk weighs about 20 g, the
its uses, refer to the section ‘Ingredients for Pastry Work’ in white 30 g and the shell 10 g.
Chapter 14.
Egg yolk is high in saturated fat. The yolk is a good source of
Specific details on the way that sugar is used in the protein and also contains vitamins and iron. The egg white is
production of ice creams and sorbets is given later in this made up of protein (albumen) and water. The egg yolk also
chapter. contains lecithin, which acts as an emulsifier in dishes such
as mayonnaise – it helps to keep the ingredients mixed, so
Eggs that the oils and water do not separate.
Eggs are one of the principal ingredients in cooking
and essential for many desserts. Their great versatility
Working with egg whites
and extraordinary properties as a thickener, emulsifier l To avoid the danger of salmonella, if the egg white is
and stabiliser make their presence important in various not going to be cooked or will not reach a temperature
creations in patisserie, including sauces, creams, sponge of 70 °C, use pasteurised egg whites. Egg white is
cakes, custards and ice creams. Although it is often not the available chilled, frozen or dried.
main ingredient, it plays specific and determining roles in l Equipment must be thoroughly clean and free from any
terms of texture, taste and aroma. Eggs are fundamental in traces of fat, as this prevents the whites from whipping;
products such as brioches, crème anglaise, sponge cakes fat or grease prevents the albumen strands from
and pastry cream. The extent to which eggs are used (or bonding and trapping the air bubbles.
not) makes an enormous difference to the quality of the l Take care that there are no traces of yolk in the white, as
product. yolk contains fat.
l A little acid (cream of tartar or lemon juice) strengthens
A good custard cannot be made without eggs, as they the egg white, extends the foam and produces more
cause the required coagulation and give it the desired meringue. The acid also has the effect of stabilising the
consistency and finesse. meringue.
Eggs are also an important ingredient in ice cream where, l If the foam is over-whipped the albumen strands, which
due to the lecithin they contain, their yolks aid the emulsion hold the water molecules with the sugar suspended
of fats. on the outside of the bubble, are overstretched.
The water and sugar make contact and the sugar
Eggs are used for several reasons: dissolves, making the meringue heavy and wet. This
l They act as a texture agent in, for example, pastry
can sometimes be rescued by further whisking until
cream and ice cream. it foams up, but very often the mixture has to be
l They intensify the aroma of pastries such as brioche.
discarded and a new one produced.
l They enhance flavours.
l They give volume to whisked sponges and batters. Beaten egg white forms a foam that is used for aerating
l They strengthen the structure of products such as sweets and many other desserts, including meringues (see
sponge cakes. recipe 11). It is advisable to use Italian meringue in desserts
that are not going to be cooked, such as bavarois.
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Salt Savoury egg custard is used to make:


l quiches
Salt (chemical name ‘sodium chloride’) is a very important
l tartlets
ingredient in all areas of cookery, including patisserie. Salt is
l flans.
a necessary part of the human diet and is present in small or
large proportions in many natural foods. Salt considerably When a starch, such as flour, is added to the ingredients for
enhances many products, sweet or savoury. We generally an egg custard mix, it changes the characteristic of the end
associate it with seasoning foods to improve their flavour, product, as in pastry cream, for example.
but it is also necessary in the making of many sweet dishes. l Pastry cream (also known as confectioner’s custard
or crème pâtissière) is a filling used for many sweets,
It is a good idea to add a pinch of salt to all sweet preparations,
gâteaux, flans and tartlets, and as a basis for soufflé
nougats, chocolate bonbons and cakes to intensify flavours.
mixes.
Salt also softens sugar and butter, activates the taste buds
l Sauce à l’anglaise (crème anglaise) is used as a base
and enhances all aromas. Salted caramel is an excellent
for some ice creams. It is also used in its own right as a
example of how salt can benefit a sweet product.
sauce to accompany a range of sweets.

What you need to know about salt Basic egg custard sets by coagulation of the egg protein. Egg
l Salt gives us the possibility of many combinations. At white coagulates at approximately 60 °C, egg yolk at 70 °C.
times these may seem normal (such as a terrine of foie Whites and yolks mixed together will coagulate at 66 °C. If
gras and coarse salt), and, at others, surprising (such as the egg protein is overheated or overcooked, it will shrink
praline with coarse salt). and water will be lost from the mixture, causing undesirable
l The addition of salt enhances the flavour of foods bubbles in the custard. This loss of water is called syneresis,
when its quantity is well adjusted; but if added in commonly referred to as scrambling or curdling. This will
greater quantity than we are used to, it produces a very occur at temperatures higher than 85 °C. Therefore, a sauce
interesting, completely unknown result. Care needs to anglaise should be ideally cooked between 70 °C and 85 °C.
be taken when adding salt. There is a fine line between The sauce will become thicker as it becomes closer to 85 °C,
the enhancement of food with salt and spoiling it by but is at risk of curdling beyond this temperature.
adding too much.
l Excessive salt can cause high blood pressure, which Traditional custard made from
could lead to strokes or heart attacks, so it should be
used in moderation. For this reason, many chefs are
custard powder
looking for ways to reduce the amount of salt they use Custard powder can be used to make custard sauce. It is
in their products and dishes. made from vanilla-flavoured cornflour with yellow colouring
added, and is a substitute for eggs. Sweetness is adjusted by
adding sugar before mixing with milk and heating. The fat
Egg custard-based content can be reduced by making it with semi-skimmed
desserts milk rather than full-fat milk.

The essential ingredients for an egg custard are eggs and


milk. Cream is often added to egg custard desserts to enrich Points to remember when
them and to improve the feel in the mouth (mouth-feel) of making egg custards
the final product. l Always work in a clean and tidy way, complying with
Egg custard mixture provides the chef with a versatile food hygiene regulations.
basic set of ingredients that covers a wide range of sweets. l Check the temperature of refrigerators and freezers to
The mixture is often referred to as crème renversée. Some ensure that they comply with the current regulations.
examples of sweets produced using this mixture are: l Check all weighing scales for accuracy.
l crème caramel (recipe 3) l Check all raw materials for correct use-by dates.
l bread and butter pudding (recipe 31) l Always wash your hands when handling fresh eggs or
l diplomat pudding dairy products and other pastry ingredients.
l cabinet pudding (recipe 33) l Prevent cross-contamination by not allowing any
l queen of puddings potentially harmful substances to come into contact
l baked egg custard. with the mixture.

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l Follow the recipe carefully. Table 16.1 Time and temperature combinations set out by the
l Always heat the egg yolks or eggs to 70 °C, or use Ice Cream (Heat Treatment) Regulations 1959
pasteurised egg yolks or eggs.
Temperature Time (not less than)
l Ensure that all heating and cooling temperatures are
65.5 °C 30 minutes
followed.
l Always store the end product carefully at the right 71.1 °C 10 minutes
temperature. 79.4 °C 15 seconds
l Never use cream to decorate a product that is still warm.
Ice cream needs this treatment to kill harmful bacteria.
Ice creams and sorbets Freezing without the correct heat treatment does not kill
bacteria; it allows them to remain dormant. The storage
Ice cream temperature for ice cream should not exceed −20 °C ideally,
Traditional ice cream is made from a basic egg custard sauce although standard freezers usually operate between −18 °C
(sauce anglaise). The sauce is cooled and mixed with fresh and −22 °C.
cream. It is then frozen using a rotating machine (churn) The rules for sterilised (UHT) ice cream are the same except
where the water content forms ice crystals. that:
Ice cream should be served at around −13 °C; any colder l The temperature for the heat treatment must not be
and it will be too hard, any warmer and it will be too soft. less than 149.9 °C for at least two seconds.
Long-term storage should be at between −18 °C and −20 °C. l If the sterilised mix is kept in unopened, sterile and air-
tight containers, there no requirement to refrigerate the
The traditional method of making ice cream uses only
mixture before it is frozen.
egg yolks, sugar and milk/cream in the form of a sauce
l In the case of non-milk based products, the
anglaise base. Modern approaches to making ice cream
temperature of opened containers must not exceed
use stabilisers (see page 515) and different sugars, and egg
7.2 °C, except where food mixtures are added that have
whites.
a pH of 4.5 or less to make water ice or similar products
and the combined product is frozen within one hour of
Ice cream regulations combination.
The Dairy Products (Hygiene) Regulations 1995 apply to the
handling of milk-based ice cream, while the Ice Cream (Heat Any ice cream sold must comply with the following
Treatment) Regulations 1959 and 1963 apply to non-milk- compositional standards:
based ice cream in any catering business or shop premises. l It must contain not less than 5 per cent fat and not less

The production process must also take into consideration than 2.5 per cent milk protein (not necessary in natural
the Food Hygiene Regulations 2006. proportions).
l It must conform to the Dairy Product Regulations 1995.
The regulations state that:
l Ice cream must be obtained from a mixture which has For further information contact the Ice Cream Alliance (see
been heated to any of the temperatures in Table 16.1 for www.ice-cream.org).
the times specified.
l The mix must be reduced to a temperature of not more Ice cream making process
than 7.2 °C within one and a half hours. This temperature 1 Weighing: ingredients should be weighed precisely
must not be exceeded until freezing begins. in order to ensure the best results and regularity and
l If the ice cream becomes warm (above −2.2 °C) it consistency.
cannot be sold/used until it has been heated again as 2 Pasteurisation: this is a vital stage in making ice
described above. cream. Its primary function is to minimise bacterial
l A complete cold mix that is reconstituted with water contamination by heating the mixture of ingredients to
does not need to be pasteurised first to comply with 85 °C, then quickly cooling it to 4 °C.
these regulations. 3 Homogenisation: high pressure is applied to cause
l A complete cold mix reconstituted with water must be the explosion of fats, which makes ice cream more
kept below −2.2 °C once it has been frozen. homogenous, creamier, smoother and much lighter. It is
not usually done for homemade ice cream.

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4 Ripening: this basic but optional stage refines flavour, Use of cream and egg yolks
further develops aromas and improves texture. This l The purpose of cream in ice cream is to improve
occurs during a rest period (4 to 24 hours), which gives creaminess and taste.
the stabilisers and proteins time to act, improving the l Egg yolks act as stabilisers in ice cream due to the
overall structure of the ice cream. This has the same lecithin they contain – they help to prevent the fats and
effect on a crème anglaise, which is much better the water in the ice cream from separating.
day after it is made than it is on the same day. l Egg yolks improve the texture and viscosity of ice
5 Churning: the mixture is frozen while air is cream.
incorporated at the same time. The ice cream is l The purpose of stabilisers (for example, gum arabic,
removed from the machine at about −10 °C. gelatine, pectin) is to prevent crystal formation by
absorbing the water contained in ice cream and making
Use of sugars a stable gel.
l Sucrose (common sugar) not only sweetens ice cream
but also gives it body. An ice cream that contains only Use of stabilisers
sucrose (not recommended) has a higher freezing Gelling substances, thickeners and emulsifiers are all
point. stabilisers. They are products we use regularly, each with
l The optimum sugar percentage of ice cream is between its own specific function, but their main purpose is to
15 and 20 per cent. retain water to make a gel. The case of ice cream is the
l Ice cream that contains dextrose (another type of most obvious, in which they are used to prevent ice crystal
sugar) has a lower freezing point, and better taste and formation. They are also used to stabilise the emulsion,
texture. increase the viscosity of the mix and give a smoother
l As much as 50 per cent of the sucrose can be product that is more resistant to melting. There are many
substituted with other sweeteners, but the stabilising substances, both natural and artificial.
recommended amount is 25 per cent. l The quantity of stabilisers in ice cream should be
l Glucose (another type of sugar) improves smoothness between 3 g and 5 g per kg of mix, with a maximum of
and prevents the crystallisation of sucrose. 10 g.
l The quantity of glucose used should be between 25 l Stabilisers promote air absorption, making products
and 30 per cent of the sucrose by weight. lighter to eat and also less costly to produce, as air
l Atomised glucose (glucose powder) is more water increases the volume of the product.
absorbent, so helps to reduce the formation of ice
crystals. What you need to know about ice
l The quantity of dextrose used should be between 6
and 25 per cent of the substituted sucrose (by weight). cream
l Inverted sugar is a paste or liquid obtained from l Hygienic conditions are essential while making ice
heating sucrose with water and an acid (for example, cream – personal hygiene and high levels of cleanliness
lemon juice). Using inverted sugar in ice cream lowers in the equipment and the kitchen environment must be
the freezing point. maintained.
l Inverted sugar also improves the texture of ice cream l An excess of stabilisers in ice cream will make it sticky.
and delays crystallisation. l Stabilisers should always be mixed with sugar before
l The quantity of inverted sugar used should be a adding, to avoid lumps.
maximum of 33 per cent of the sucrose by weight. It is l Stabilisers should be added at 45 °C, which is when they
very efficient at sweetening and gives ice cream a low begin to act.
freezing point. l Cold stabilisers have no effect on the mixture, so the
l Honey has very similar properties as those of inverted temperature must be raised to 85 °C.
sugar. l Ice cream should be allowed to ‘ripen’ for 4 to 24 hours.
This helps to improve its flavour properties.
l Ice cream should be cooled quickly to 4 °C, because
micro-organisms reproduce rapidly, particularly
between 20 °C and 55 °C.

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Sorbets Carob gum


Carob gum comes from the seeds of the carob tree; it makes
Sorbets belong to the ice cream family; they are a mixture
sorbets creamier and improves heat resistance.
of water, sucrose, atomised glucose, stabiliser, fruit juice,
fruit pulp and, sometimes, liqueurs.
l Sorbet is generally more refreshing and easier to digest
Guar gum and carrageenan
than ice cream. Guar gum and carrageenan are natural products. Both of
l Fruit for sorbets must always be of a high quality and
these gelling substances have similar properties to agar-
ripe. agar, but they are not as commonly used.
l The percentage of fruit used in sorbet varies according
to the type of fruit, its acidity and the properties Fruit-based and other
desired.
l The percentage of sugar will depend on the type of desserts
fruit used. Fruit is used as an ingredient in many desserts. It can be
l The minimum sugar content in sorbet is about 13 per the main feature of a dessert, as in the case of a baked
cent. apple (bonne femme), peach Melba or pear belle Hélène, or
l As far as ripening is concerned, the syrup should be left in conjunction with other dessert bases and ingredients.
to rest for 4 to 24 hours and never mixed with the fruit Fruit can also form the main component of batter-based
because its acidity would damage the stabiliser. desserts, such as fritters and clafoutis, for example.
l Stabiliser is added in the same way as for ice cream.
Fruit is used to contribute to sponge-based desserts, such
l Sorbets are not to be confused with granitas, which are
as baked Alaska with cherries or caramelised banana (see
semi-solid.
Recipe 44), as a platform to support fruit mousses and/or
bavarois, or as a component in steamed sponge puddings.
Stabilisers and setting agents Fruit is also regularly used in a variety of pastry-based
Edible gelatine desserts, such as tarte tatin, fruit tarts and barquettes.
Edible gelatine is extracted from animals’ bones (for
Other dessert mediums include meringue (vacherins), egg
example, pork and veal) and, more recently, fish skin. Sold
custards (crème renversée) and purées (to flavour ice creams
in sheets of 2 g, it is easy to precisely control the amount
and sorbets). This provides just a few examples of the
used and to manipulate it. Gelatine sheets must always
versatility of fruit and how it can be used alongside other
be washed thoroughly with lots of cold water to remove
mediums to produce an endless variety of desserts.
impurities and any remaining odours. They must then be
drained before use.
Gelatine sheets melt at 40 °C; they should be melted in a
Quality and purchasing
little of the liquid from the recipe before being added to Fresh fruit should be:
l whole and fresh looking (for maximum flavour the fruit
the base preparation.
must be ripe but not overripe)
l firm, according to type and variety
Pectin
l clean, and free from traces of pesticides and fungicides
Pectin is another commonly used gelling substance
l free from external moisture
because of its great absorption capacity. It comes from
l free from any unpleasant foreign smell or taste
citrus peel (for example, oranges, lemons), though all fruits
l free from pests or disease
contain some pectin in their peel.
l sufficiently mature; it must be capable of being handled
It is a good idea to mix pectin with sugar before adding it to and travelling without being damaged
the rest of the ingredients. l free from any defects characteristic of the variety in
terms of their shape, size and colour
Agar-agar l free of bruising and any other damage.
Agar-agar is a gelatinous marine algae found in Asia. It is
Soft fruits deteriorate quickly, especially if they are not
sold in whole or powdered form and has a great absorption
sound. Take care to see that they are not damaged or
capacity. It dissolves very easily and, in addition to gelling,
overripe when purchased. Soft fruits should look fresh;
adds elasticity and resists heat (this is classified as a non-
there should be no signs of wilting, shrinking or mould. The
reversible gel). It is a vegetarian alternative to gelatine.
colour of certain soft fruits is an indication of their ripeness
(for example, strawberries or dessert gooseberries).
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Storing fruit Garnishing desserts offers endless opportunities and can


be as simple as using some fresh fruit such as raspberries or
Hard fruits, such as apples, should be left in boxes and
other berries. Piping can also be used to enhance desserts:
kept in a cool store. Soft fruits, such as raspberries and
a cream or buttercream, for example, or a chocolate motif.
strawberries, should be left in their punnets or baskets in a
cold room. Stone fruits, such as apricots and plums, are best Other garnishes include items such as dried fruits and
placed in trays so that any damaged fruit can be seen and purées, fruit carpaccios and crisps, and even items such
discarded. Peaches and citrus fruits are left in their delivery as popping ‘space dust’, intended to add the element of
trays or boxes. Bananas should not be stored in chilled surprise by popping when it comes in contact with saliva
conditions because their skins will turn black. in the mouth.

Finishing and presentation Healthy eating and


The finishing and presentation of desserts can lead desserts
to elaborate creations. With the use of ever-changing
Desserts and puddings remain popular with consumers
techniques, products and equipment, desserts offer chefs
today, but there is now a demand for products with reduced
the opportunity to create mouth-watering dishes that are
fat and sugar content, as many people are keen to eat a
also also eye catching, impressive and imaginative.
healthy diet. Chefs continue to respond to this demand by
Classically, some dessert products are finished by being modifying recipes to reduce the fat and sugar content; they
filled, such as profiteroles and crêpes. Other desserts might may also use alternative ingredients, such as low-calorie
include a chocolate cup filled with a mousse or cream, sweeteners where possible and unsaturated fats. Although
whereas others are glazed or gratinated, such as crème salt is an essential part of our diet, too much of it can be
brûlée or bread and butter pudding. unhealthy (see page 563), and this is something else that
chefs should take into consideration.

Test yourself
1 Name three types of setting agent.
2 Describe what would happen to a crème caramel if it was cooked at 180 °C.
3 Name the three main types of meringues, and describe their production and
use.
4 Describe the conditions that promote the foam of egg whites when making
meringues.
5 Name two desserts that are finished with a glaze.
6 What is the difference between a cabinet and diplomat pudding?
7 Name five fruits suitable for stewing.
8 Describe the differences between the production of a ‘pudding soufflé’ and a
‘fruit soufflé’.
9 Name four types of sugar, giving an example of their use in a dessert.
10 Explain why salt is sometimes used in the production of desserts.

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Cold desserts

1 Fresh fruit salad

1 For the syrup, boil the sugar with the water and
place in a bowl.
2 Allow to cool, then add the lemon juice.
3 Peel and cut the orange into segments.
4 Peel, quarter and core the apple and pear, then
cut each quarter into two or three slices, place
in the bowl with the syrup and mix in the orange
segments.
5 Stone the cherries but leave them whole.
6 Cut the grapes in half, peel if required, and
remove any pips. Add the cherries and grapes to
the fruit and syrup mix.
7 Mix the fruit salad carefully and place in a glass
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions bowl in the refrigerator to chill.
Stock syrup 8 Just before serving, peel and slice the banana
Caster sugar 50 g 125 g and mix in.
Water 125 ml 310 ml
Variation
Lemon, juice of ½ 1¼ l Any of the following fruits may be used: dessert
Fruit apples, pears, pineapple, oranges, grapes, melon,
strawberries, peaches, raspberries, apricots,
Orange 1 2½
bananas, cherries, kiwi fruit, plums, mangoes, paw
Dessert apple 1 2½ paws and lychees. Allow about 150 g unprepared fruit
Dessert pear 1 2½ per portion. All fruit must be ripe.
l Kirsch or an orange liqueur could be added to
Cherries 50 g 125 g the syrup.
Grapes 50 g 125 g l Fruit juice (such as apple, orange, grape or passion
fruit) can be used instead of syrup.
Banana 1 2½

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


493 kJ 117 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 30.3 g 29.5 g 0.9 g 3.0 g

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2 Poached fruits or fruit compote

Stone fruits (plums, damsons,


greengages, cherries)
1 Wash the fruit, barely cover with sugar syrup and
cover with greaseproof paper or a lid.
2 Cook gently in a moderate oven until tender.

Rhubarb
1 Trim off the stalk and leaf and wash.
2 Cut into 5 cm lengths and cook as above, adding
extra sugar if necessary. A little ground ginger
may also be added.
Poached rhubarb and pear

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Gooseberries, blackcurrants,
Stock syrup (see page 482) 250 ml 625 ml redcurrants
Fruit 400 g 1 kg 1 Top and tail the gooseberries, wash and cook as
Sugar 100 g 250 g for stone fruit, adding extra sugar if necessary.
Lemon, juice of ½ 1 2 The currants should be carefully removed from
the stalks, washed and cooked as for stone fruits.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
531 kJ 126 kcal

Using pears.
0.0 g 0.0 g 33.5 g 33.5 g 0.2 g 2.2 g
Dried fruits (prunes, apricots,
apples, pears)
Apples, pears 1 Dried fruits should be washed and soaked in cold
water overnight.
1 Boil the water and sugar.
2 Gently cook in the liquor with sufficient sugar to
2 Quarter the fruit, remove the core and peel.
taste.
3 Place in a shallow pan in sugar syrup.
4 Add a few drops of lemon juice. Variation
5 Cover with greaseproof paper. A piece of cinnamon stick and a few slices of lemon may
6 Allow to simmer slowly, preferably in the oven, be added to the prunes or pears, one or two cloves to
the dried or fresh apples.
cool and serve.
Any compote may be flavoured with lavender and/
or mint.
Soft fruits (raspberries,
strawberries) Healthy eating tips
1 Pick and wash the fruit. Place in a glass bowl. l Use fruit juice instead of stock syrup.
l If dried fruits are used, no added sugar is needed.
2 Pour on the hot syrup. Allow to cool and serve.

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3 Crème caramel

1 Prepare the caramel by placing three-quarters of


the water in a thick-based pan, adding the sugar
and allowing to boil gently, without shaking or
stirring the pan.
2 When the sugar has cooked to a golden-brown
caramel colour, add the remaining quarter of the
water, reboil until the sugar and water mix, then
pour into the bottom of dariole moulds.
3 Prepare the cream by warming the milk and
whisking on to the beaten eggs, sugar and
essence (or vanilla pod).
4 Strain and pour into the prepared moulds.
5 Place in a roasting tin half full of water.
6 Cook in a moderate oven at 150–160 °C for
Ingredient 4–6 portions 10–12 portions 30–40 minutes.
Caramel 7 When thoroughly cold, loosen the edges of the
Sugar, granulated or cube 100 g 200 g crème caramel with the fingers, shake firmly to
loosen and turn out on to a flat dish or plates.
Water 125 ml 250 ml
Cream 8 Pour any caramel remaining in the mould around
the creams.
Milk, whole or skimmed 0.5 litres 1 litre
Crème caramels may be served with whipped cream
Eggs 4 8
or a fruit sauce such as passion fruit, and accompanied
Sugar, caster or unrefined 50 g 100 g by a sweet biscuit (e.g. shortbread, palmiers).
Vanilla essence or a vanilla pod 3–4 drops 6–8 drops
Professional tip
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Adding a squeeze of lemon juice to the caramel will
868 kJ 207 kcal 7.2 g 3.3 g 30.2 g 30.2 g 7.3 g 0.0 g
invert the sugar, thus preventing recrystallisation.
Using whole milk.

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4 Crème brûlée 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Variation


Milk 125 ml 310 ml Sliced strawberries, raspberries or other fruits (e.g.
Double cream 125 ml 310 ml peaches, apricots) may be placed in the bottom of the
dish before adding the cream mixture, or placed on top
Natural vanilla, essence or pod 3–4 drops 7–10 drops
after the creams are caramelised.
Eggs 2 5
Egg yolk 1 2–3
Caster sugar 25 g 60 g
Demerara sugar

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1154 kJ 278 kcal 21.9 g 12.1 g 14.8 g 14.8 g 6.2 g 0.0 g

1 Warm the milk, cream and vanilla essence in a


pan.
2 Mix the eggs, egg yolk and caster sugar in a
basin and add the warm milk. Stir well and pass
through a fine strainer.
3 Pour the cream into individual dishes and place
them into a tray half-filled with warm water.
4 Place in the oven at approximately 160 °C for
about 30–40 minutes, until set. Use a blowtorch carefully to glaze the top
5 Sprinkle the tops with Demerara sugar and glaze
under the salamander or by blowtorch to a golden Video: making
crème brûlée
brown. http://bit.ly/
6 Clean the dishes and serve. 1vWYRwH

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5 Zabaglione (sabayon with Marsala)

1 Whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl until


almost white.
2 Mix in the Marsala.
3 Place the bowl and its contents in a bain-marie of
warm water.
4 Whisk the mixture continuously until it increases
to four times its bulk and is firm and frothy.
5 Pour the mixture into glass goblets.
6 Accompany with a suitable biscuit (for example,
sponge fingers).

Note
This is a traditional Italian dessert, which is sometimes
prepared in the restaurant in a special zabaglione pan.

Variation
Use sherry, whisky or brandy instead of Marsala.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Egg yolks, pasteurised 8 20
Caster or unrefined sugar 200 g 500 g
Marsala 150 ml 375 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


746 kJ 177 kcal 5.5 g 1.6 g 27.4 g 27.4 g 2.9 g 0.0 g

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6 Fruit mousse

1 Mix the egg yolks and sugar together and slowly


add the boiled fruit purée which has been
flavoured with a squeeze of lemon juice.
2 Return to the stove and cook to 80 °C until slightly
thickened. Do not boil.
3 Add the previously softened gelatine to the warm
purée and mix until fully dissolved. Chill down.
4 Prepare the Italian meringue by placing the sugar
in a pan and saturating in water.
5 Boil the sugar to 115 °C, then whisk the egg
whites with a pinch of cream of tartar.
Ingredient 10 portions 6 Once the egg whites are at full peak, gradually
Egg yolks 4 add the boiled sugar which now should have
reached the temperature of 121 °C. Whisk until
Sugar 50 g
cold.
Fruit purée 250 g
7 Once the purée is cold, but not set, incorporate
Gelatine 4 leaves
the Italian meringue and whipped cream.
Lemon juice
8 Place into piping bag and pipe into the desired
Lightly whipped cream 250 g ring mould, normally lined with a suitable sponge
Italian meringue such as a jaconde.
Sugar 112 g 9 Level the surface using a palette knife and
Egg whites 2 refrigerate.
Cream of tartar pinch 10 Once set, glace the surface, refrigerate.
Glaze topping 11 To remove from the mould, warm the outside of
Stock syrup 150 ml the mould with a blow torch and remove the ring
Fruit purée 150 ml mould.
Gelatine 3 leaves, soaked
in cold water
Glaze
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium 1 Warm the syrup. Add the gelatine and stir until
950 kJ 227 kcal 12.4 g 7.0 g 26.0 g 26.0 g 4.0 g 2.0 g 0.0 g dissolved, then add the desired fruit purée.
2 Apply to the surface of the chilled mousse whilst
in a liquid state, but not hot.

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7 Bavarois

Ingredient 6–8 portions 11 Allow to set in the refrigerator.


Gelatine 10 g 12 Shake and turn out on to a flat dish or plates.
Bavarois may be decorated with sweetened, flavoured
Eggs, pasteurised, separated 2
whipped cream (crème Chantilly).
Caster sugar 50 g
Milk (whole, semi-skimmed or skimmed) 250 ml Flavours for bavarois
Whipping or double cream (or non-dairy cream) 125 ml l Raspberry or strawberry bavarois (as shown):
when the custard is almost cool, add 200 g of
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre picked, washed and sieved (puréed) raspberries or
970 kJ 231 kcal 18.2 g 10.9 g 11.8 g 11.8 g 5.8 g 0.0 g strawberries. Decorate with whole fruit and whipped
Using whole milk and whipping cream. cream.
l Chocolate bavarois: melt 50 g chocolate couverture
1 If using leaf gelatine, soak in cold water. in the milk. Decorate with whipped cream and grated
2 Cream the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl until chocolate.
almost white. l Coffee bavarois: add coffee essence to the basic
bavarois mixture, to taste.
3 Bring the milk to the boil in a thick-based l Orange bavarois: add the grated zest and juice
saucepan then whisk it into the egg yolk and of two oranges and one or two drops of orange
sugar mixture; mix well. colour to the mixture, and increase the gelatine by
two leaves. Decorate with blanched, fine julienne of
4 Clean the milk saucepan and return the mixture orange zest, orange segments and whipped cream.
to it. l Lemon or lime bavarois: as for orange bavarois,
5 Return to a low heat and stir continuously with a but using lemons or limes in place of oranges.
wooden spoon until the mixture coats the back of l Vanilla bavarois: add a vanilla pod or a few drops
of vanilla extract to the milk. Decorate with vanilla-
the spoon. The mixture must not boil. flavoured sweetened cream (crème Chantilly).
6 Remove from the heat; add the gelatine and stir
until dissolved.
7 Pass through a fine strainer into a clean bowl. Health and safety
Leave in a cool place, stirring occasionally until It is advisable to use pasteurised egg yolks and whites.
almost at setting point.
8 Fold in the lightly beaten cream. Healthy eating tips
9 Fold in the stiffly beaten whites. Use semi-skimmed milk and whipping cream to reduce
the overall fat content.
10 Pour the mixture into a mould or individual moulds
(which may be very lightly greased with almond oil).
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8 Chocolate mousse

Ingredient 8 portions 16 portions 3 Add all the melted couverture at once and fold it
in quickly.
Stock syrup at 30° Baumé (equal 125 ml 250 ml
quantities of sugar and water will 4 Drain the gelatine, melt it in the microwave and
give 30° Baume)
fold it into the chocolate sabayon mixture.
Pasteurised egg yolks 80 ml 160 ml
5 Add all the whipped cream at once and fold it in
Bitter couverture, melted 250 g 500 g carefully.
Gelatine (soaked) 2 leaves 4 leaves 6 Place the mixture into prepared moulds.
Whipping cream, whipped 500 ml 1 litre Refrigerate or freeze immediately.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Faults
1760 kJ 419 kcal 37.0 g 22.0 g 13.7 g 12.8 g 5.1 g 2.6 g 0.0 g
Possible causes of a heavy texture in chocolate
1 Boil the syrup. mousse:
l The pâte à bombe is under-aerated.
2 Place the yolks into the bowl of a food mixer. Pour
l The cream is insufficiently whipped.
over the boiling syrup and whisk until thick (this is l The mix has been over-worked when folding in the
a pâte à bombe). Remove from the mixer. cream and Italian meringue.

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9 Vanilla panna cotta with stewed rhubarb

Ingredient 6 portions 1 Prepare the rhubarb by finely peeling it.


Milk 125 ml 2 Split the vanilla pod lengthways and scrape the
seeds into a saucepan with the stock syrup and
Double cream 375 ml
the zest and juice of the orange.
Aniseeds 2
3 Bring the syrup to a gentle simmer and add the
Vanilla pod ½
rhubarb. Stew until the rhubarb is cooked through
Gelatine (soaked) 2 leaves but still holding its shape. Use a spider to remove
Caster sugar 50 g the rhubarb and cut diagonally into strips.
Stewed rhubarb 4 For the panna cotta, boil the milk and cream, add
Rhubarb 500 g aniseeds, infuse with the vanilla pod and remove
Vanilla pod 1 after infusion.
Stock syrup 250 ml 5 Heat again and add the soaked gelatine and
Orange 1 caster sugar. Strain through a fine strainer.
Blueberries 75 g 6 Place in a bowl set over ice and stir until it
Raspberries 50 g
thickens slightly; this will allow the vanilla seeds to
suspend throughout the mix instead of sinking to
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
the bottom.
1808 kJ 436 kcal 34.0 g 21.0 g 31.0 g 31.0 g 3.0 g 2.9 g 0.0 g 7 Fill individual dariole moulds.
8 Turn out the panna cotta and serve with the
rhubarb. Decorate with a split, dried vanilla pod, a
shortbread biscuit or a tuile.

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10 Fruit fool

Method 2
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Fruit purée (raspberry, strawberry, 400 g 1 kg
etc.)
Caster sugar 100 g 250 g
Fresh whipped cream 250 ml 625 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,540 kJ 370 kcal 25.3 g 15.8 g 35.7 g 35.7 g 2.0 g 1.2 g

For a strawberry fool.


Mix the ingredients and serve in coupes.

Method 3
Method 1
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions Cornflour 35 g 85 g
Fruit (apple, gooseberry, rhubarb, etc.) 400 g 1 kg Water 375 ml 940 ml
Water 60 ml 150 ml Sugar 100 g 250 g
Granulated or unrefined sugar 100 g 250 g Fruit purée (raspberry, strawberry, 400 g 1 kg
Cornflour 25 g 60 g etc.)

Milk, whole or semi-skimmed 250 ml 625 ml Cream 185 ml 460 ml

Caster or unrefined sugar 25 g 60 g


Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1,606 kJ 385 kcal 25.2 g 15.6 g 40.0 g 31.9 g 2.0 g 2.7 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
For a raspberry fool made with double cream.
942 kJ 222 kcal 2.6 g 1.6 g 50.3 g 4.5 g 2.4 g 1.6 g

For an apple fool made with whole milk. 1 Dilute the cornflour in a little of the water.
1 Cook the fruit to a purée in the water with the 2 Boil the remainder of the water with the sugar and
granulated sugar. Pass through a sieve. prepared fruit until soft.
2 Dilute the cornflour in a little of the milk and add 3 Pass through a fine sieve.
the caster sugar. 4 Return to a clean pan and reboil.
3 Boil the remainder of the milk. 5 Stir in the diluted cornflour and reboil. Allow to
4 Pour on to the diluted cornflour and stir well. cool.
5 Return to the pan on a low heat and stir to the 6 Lightly whisk the cream and fold into the mixture.
boil. 7 Serve as for method 1.
6 Mix with the fruit purée. The quantity of mixture
should not be less than 0.5 litres (for four Professional tip
portions). In methods 2 and 3 the fat content may be reduced by
using equal quantities of cream and natural Greek-style
7 Pour into glass coupes or suitable dishes and yoghurt.
allow to set.
8 Decorate with sweetened whipped cream or non-
dairy cream. The colour may need to be adjusted
slightly with food colour.

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11 Meringue 

Whipping egg whites


The reason egg whites increase in volume when
whipped is because they contain so much protein (11
per cent). The protein forms tiny filaments, which stretch
on beating, incorporate air in minute bubbles then set
to form a fairly stable puffed-up structure expanding to
seven times its bulk. To gain maximum efficiency when
whipping egg whites, the following points should be
observed.
Because of possible weakness in the egg-white protein,
it is advisable to strengthen it by adding a pinch of
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions cream of tartar and a pinch of dried egg-white powder.
If all dried egg-white powder is used no additions are
Lemon juice or cream of tartar necessary.
Egg whites, pasteurised 4 10
Other points to note:
Caster sugar 200 g 500 g l Eggs should be fresh.
l When separating yolks from whites no speck of egg
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium yolk must be allowed to remain in the white; egg yolk
913 kJ 214 kcal 0.1 g 0.0 g 52.0 g 52.0 g 4.0 g 0.0 g 0.1 g contains fat, the presence of which can prevent the
white being correctly whipped.
1 Whip the egg whites stiffly with a squeeze of l The bowl and whisk must be scrupulously clean, dry
and free from any grease.
lemon juice or cream of tartar.
l When egg whites are whipped, the addition of a little
2 Sprinkle on the sugar and carefully mix in. sugar (15 g to 4 egg whites) will assist efficient beating
3 Place in a piping bag with a large plain tube and and reduce the chances of over-beating.
pipe on to silicone paper on a baking sheet.
4 Bake in the slowest oven possible or in a hot
plate (110 °C). The aim is to dry out the meringues
without any colour whatsoever.

12 Vacherin with strawberries and cream 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Egg whites 4 10
Caster sugar 200 g 500 g
Cream (whipped and sweetened) or 125 ml 300 ml
non-dairy cream
Strawberries, picked and washed) 100–300 g 250–750 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,436 kJ 341 kcal 12.6 g 7.9 g 56.3 g 56.3 g 3.9 g 0.6 g

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1 Stiffly whip the egg whites. (Refer to the notes in


Note
recipe 11 for more guidance.)
2 Carefully fold in the sugar. A vacherin is a round meringue shell piped into a
suitable shape so that the centre may be filled with
3 Place the mixture into a piping bag with a 1 cm sufficient fruit (such as strawberries, stoned cherries,
plain tube. peaches and apricots) and whipped cream to form a
4 Pipe on to silicone paper on a baking sheet. rich sweet. The vacherin may be prepared in one-, two-
or four-portion sizes, or larger.
5 Start from the centre and pipe round in a circular
fashion to form a base of 16 cm then pipe around
the edge 2–3 cm high. Variation
6 Bake in a cool oven at 100 °C until the meringue Melba sauce may be used to coat the strawberries
case is completely dry. Do not allow to colour. before decorating with cream.

7 Allow the meringue case to cool then remove Raspberries can be used instead of strawberries.
from the paper.
8 Spread a thin layer of cream on the base. Add the Healthy eating tips
strawberries. l Try ‘diluting’ the fat in the cream with some low-fat
9 Decorate with the remainder of the cream. fromage frais.

13 Lime soufflé frappe

Ingredient 10 portions 15 portions


Couverture 150 g 200 g
Sponge, thin slices, cut into rounds 10 15
Lime syrup 100 ml 150 ml
Swiss meringue
Sabayon
Whipping cream 600 ml 900 ml
Lime zest, finely grated and 8 12
blanched, and juice
Egg yolks 10 15
Caster sugar 170 g 250 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Leaf gelatine, soaked in iced water 9½ 14
2,734 kJ 655 kcal 40.8 g 20.7 g 66.9 g 61.2 g 9.2 g 0.8 g 0.2 g
To decorate
Confit of lime segments
Moulded chocolate

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1 Use individual stainless steel ring moulds. Cut a the mixture to make the sabayon. Whisk over a
strip of acetate, 8 cm wide, to fit inside each ring. bain-marie until it reaches 75 °C, then continue
Cut a 6 cm strip to fit inside the first, spread it with whisking away from the heat until it is cold.
tempered couverture and place inside the first 6 Drain and melt the gelatine. Fold it into the
strip, in the mould. sabayon.
2 Place a round of sponge in the base of each 7 Fold in the Swiss meringue, and then the chilled
mould and moisten with lime syrup. whipped cream.
3 Make the Swiss meringue (see page 481). 8 Fill the prepared moulds. Level the tops and chill
4 Whisk the cream until it is three-quarters until set.
whipped, then chill. 9 To serve, carefully remove the mould, peel away
5 Whisk together the egg yolks, sugar and the acetate, plate and decorate.
blanched lime zest. Boil the juice and pour it over

14 Trifle

Ingredient 6–8 portions


Sponge (made with 3 eggs) 1
Jam 25 g
Tinned fruit (pears, peaches, pineapple) in syrup 1
Sherry (optional)
Custard
Custard powder 35 g
Milk, whole or skimmed 375 ml
Caster sugar 50 g
Cream (¾ whipped) or non-dairy cream 125 ml
Whipped sweetened cream or non-dairy cream 250 ml
Angelica 25 g
Glacé cherries 25 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


2,280 kJ 543 kcal 29.1 g 17.1 g 66.2 g 51.3 g 8.2 g 1.9 g

1 Cut the sponge in half, sideways, and spread with 6 Pour on to the sponge. Leave to cool.
jam. 7 Decorate with the whipped cream, angelica and
2 Place in a glass bowl or individual dishes and cherries.
soak with fruit syrup drained from the tinned fruit;
a few drops of sherry may be added. Variation
3 Cut the fruit into small pieces and add to the Other flavourings or liqueurs may be used in place of
sponge. sherry (such as whisky, rum, brandy, coffee liqueur).

4 Dilute the custard powder in a basin with some of For raspberry or strawberry trifle use fully ripe fresh fruit
the milk and add the sugar. in place of tinned and decorate with fresh fruit in place of
angelica and glacé cherries.
5 Boil the remainder of the milk, pour a little on the
A fresh egg custard may be used with fresh egg yolks
custard powder, mix well, return to the saucepan
(see page 558).
and over a low heat stir to the boil. Allow to cool,
stirring occasionally to prevent a skin forming; fold
in the three-quarters whipped cream.
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15 Lime and mascarpone cheesecake

Ingredient 1 cheesecake
Ginger biscuits 200 g
Butter, melted 200 g
Egg yolks, pasteurised 125 g
Caster sugar 75 g
Cream cheese 250 g
Mascarpone 250 g
Gelatine, softened in cold water 15 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Limes, juice and grated zest of 2
2,624 kJ 633 kcal 54.0 g 32.3 g 31.5 g 24.3 g 7.1 g 0.0 g 0.3 g

Using cream cheese in place of mascarpone. Semi-whipped cream 275 ml


White chocolate, melted 225 g

1 Blitz the biscuits in a food processor. Mix in the 4 Meanwhile, warm the gelatine in the lime juice,
melted butter. Line the cake ring with this mixture and pass through a fine chinois. Whip the cream.
and chill until required. 5 Pour the gelatine and melted white chocolate into
2 Make a sabayon by whisking the egg yolks and the cheese mixture.
sugar together over a pan of simmering water. 6 Remove from the food mixer and fold in the
3 Stir the cream cheese and mascarpone into the whipped cream with a spatula. Finally, whisk in
sabayon until soft. the lime zest.
7 Pour over the prepared base. Chill for 4 hours.

16 Baked blueberry cheesecake 

Ingredient 8–12 portions


Base
Digestive biscuits 150 g
Butter, melted 50 g
Filling
Full-fat cream cheese 350 g
Caster sugar 150 g
Eggs 4
Lemon, zest and juice of 1
Vanilla essence 1 tsp
Blueberries 125 g
Soured cream 350 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,791 kJ 431 kcal 33.5 g 19.5 g 28.0 g 19.7 g 6.4 g 0.4 g

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1 Blitz the biscuits in a food processor. Stir in the 4 Bake at 160 °C for approximately 30 minutes.
melted butter. Press the mixture into the bottom 5 Remove from the oven and leave to cool slightly
of a lightly greased cake tin with a removable for 10–15 minutes.
collar.
6 Spread soured cream over the top and return to
2 Whisk together the cheese, sugar, eggs, vanilla the oven for 10 minutes.
and lemon zest and juice until smooth.
7 Remove and allow to cool and set. Chill.
3 Stir in the blueberries, then pour the mixture over
the biscuit base.

Iced desserts

17 Vanilla ice cream

1 Whisk the yolks and sugar in a bowl until almost


white.
2 Boil the milk with the vanilla pod or essence in a
thick-based pan.
3 Whisk on to the eggs and sugar; mix well.
4 Return to the cleaned saucepan, place on a low
heat.
5 Stir continuously with a wooden spoon until the
mixture coats the back of the spoon.
6 Pass through a fine strainer into a bowl.
7 Freeze in an ice cream machine, gradually adding
the cream.

Variation
Ingredient 8–10 portions
Coffee ice cream: add coffee essence, to taste, to the
Egg yolks 4
custard after it is cooked.
Caster or unrefined sugar 100 g
Chocolate ice cream: add 50–100 g of chopped
Milk, whole or skimmed 375 ml couverture to the milk before boiling.
Vanilla pod or essence
Strawberry ice cream: add 125 ml of strawberry pulp
Cream or non-dairy cream 125 ml in place of 125 ml of milk. The pulp is added after the
custard is cooked.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Rum and raisin ice cream: soak 50 g raisins in 2 tbsp
616 kJ 147 kcal 8.1 g 4.2 g 15.8 g 15.8 g 3.5 g 0.0 g
rum for 3–4 hours. Add to mixture before freezing.
Using whole milk and single cream.

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1 Whisk boiling milk into the egg 2 Return the mixture to the hot pan 3 Test the consistency on the back
yolks and sugar used for the milk of a spoon

4 Pass through a fine strainer into a 5 The mixture will cool down; if it 6 Gradually add cream to the
cold pot was left in the hot pan it would mixture in the ice cream machine
continue to cook

18 Lemon curd ice cream

Ingredient 6–8 portions


Lemon curd 250 g
Crème fraiche 125 g
Greek yoghurt 250 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


774 kJ 185 kcal 8.9 g 5.2 g 24.8 g 16.7 g 2.8 g 0.0 g

1 Mix all ingredients together.


2 Churn in the ice cream machine.

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19 Peach Melba 

1 Poach the peaches. Allow to cool, then peel,


halve and remove the stones.
2 Dress the fruit on a ball of the ice cream in an ice
cream coupe or in a tuile basket.
3 Finish with the sauce.
The traditional presentation is to coat the peach in
Melba sauce or coulis and decorate with whipped
cream.

Professional tip
If using fresh peaches, dip them in boiling water for a
few seconds, cool them by placing into cold water, then
peel and halve.

Variation
Fruit Melba can also be made using pear or banana
instead of peach. Fresh pears should be peeled, halved
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
and poached. Bananas should be peeled at the last
Peaches 2 5 moment.
Vanilla ice cream 125 ml 300 ml
Raspberry coulis 125 ml 300 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


607 kJ 145 kcal 2.6 g 1.3 g 30.5 g 30.2 g 1.6 g 1.3 g

20 Pear belle Hélène 

Traditional presentation
1 Serve a poached pear on a ball of vanilla ice
cream in a coupe.
2 Decorate with whipped cream. Serve with a
sauceboat of hot chocolate sauce.

Modern presentation
1 Coat a poached pear with chocolate sauce.
2 Dress on a plate with vanilla ice cream, more
sauce and a tuile.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,888 kJ 453 kcal 29.7 g 18.2 g 44.5 g 43.6 g 4.5 g 5.3 g 0.0 g

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21 Apple sorbet

1 Cut the apples into 1 cm pieces and place into


lemon juice.
2 Bring the water, sugar and glucose to the boil,
then allow to cool.
3 Pour the water over the apples. Freeze overnight.
Blitz in a food processor.
4 Pass through a conical strainer, then churn in an
ice cream machine.

Professional tip
For best results, after freezing, process in a Pacojet.

Variation
Fruits of the forest sorbet: use a mixture of forest
Ingredient 8–10 portions fruits instead of apples.
Granny Smith apples, washed and cored 4
Lemon, juice of 1
Water 400 ml
Sugar 200 g
Glucose 50 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


673 kJ 158 kcal 0.1 g 0.0 g 41.5 g 38.7 g 0.4 g 2.4 g

22 Chocolate sorbet

Ingredient 8 portions
Water 400 ml
Skimmed milk 100 ml
Sugar 150 g
Ice cream stabiliser 40 g
Cocoa powder 30 g
Dark couverture 60 g

1 Combine the water, milk, sugar, stabiliser and


cocoa powder. Bring to the boil slowly. Simmer
for 5 minutes.
2 Add the couverture and allow to cool.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
3 Pass and churn.
544 kJ 129 kcal 3.0 g 1.8 g 25.4 g 24.9 g 1.6 g 6.3 g

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23 Raspberry parfait

Ingredient 6–8 portions 1 Make up the Italian meringue (see page 480).
Italian meringue 2 Combine the egg yolks and caster sugar in a
Caster sugar 150 g stainless steel bowl. Whisk over a bain-marie to
make a sabayon.
Glucose 20 g
3 Drain the gelatine and dissolve it in the liqueur and
Water 80 ml
lemon juice.
Egg whites 200 g
4 Fold the gelatine mixture into the sabayon, then
Additional ingredients
fold in the raspberry purée.
Egg yolks, pasteurised 80 g
5 Fold in the Italian meringue, then fold in the
Caster sugar 60 g
whipped cream.
Gelatine, soaked 1½ leaves
6 Place into prepared moulds lined with sponge
Raspberry liqueur 10 ml and freeze.
Lemon juice 10 ml
7 Once set, remove from the moulds.
Raspberry purée 120 g
8 In this presentation, the parfait has been lined
Whipped cream 150 ml with sponge only on the base. It is served with a
Sponge raspberry coulis and fresh and dried raspberry
garnishes.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
981 kJ 234 kcal 10.7 g 5.6 g 31.3 g 30.2 g 4.7 g 0.5 g

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Hot desserts

24 Pancakes with apple 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Cooked apple, thinly sliced 150 g 375 g
Flour, white or wholemeal 100 g 250 g
Salt pinch large pinch
Egg 1 2–3
Milk, whole, semi-skimmed or 250 ml 625 ml
skimmed
Melted butter, margarine or oil 10 g 25 g
Oil for frying
Caster sugar to serve

1 Place a little cooked apple in a pan, add the


Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
pancake mixture and cook on both sides.
1,178 kJ 280 kcal 8.2 g 2.9 g 47.7 g 28.7 g 6.6 g 2.8 g 2 Turn out, sprinkle with caster sugar and roll up.

25 Baked apples (pommes bonne femme) 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Core the apples and make a 2 mm-deep incision
round the centre of each. Wash well. Peel the
Medium-sized cooking apples 4 10
apples for a modern presentation.
Sugar, white or unrefined 50 g 125 g
2 Place in a roasting tray or ovenproof dish.
Cloves 4 10
3 Fill the centre with sugar and add a clove to each.
Butter 20 g 50 g
4 Place 5 g butter on each apple. Add the water.
Water 60 ml 150 ml
5 Bake in a hot oven, at 200–220 °C, for
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
15–20 minutes.
663 kJ 156 kcal 5.1 g 2.2 g 29.7 g 29.5 g 0.4 g 2.7 g
6 Turn the apples over carefully.
Using hard margarine.
7 Return to the oven until cooked, about 40 minutes
in all.
Professional tip
8 Serve with a little cooking liquor and custard,
To protect the peeled apple, wrap it in lightly oiled
greaseproof or silicone paper before putting it in
cream or ice cream.
the oven.
Variation
Cooking apples requires careful temperature control: l Traditional baked apples are cooked with the skin on.
some varieties will turn into purée very quickly. Check l For stuffed baked apples, fill the centre of each apple
carefully at the end of step 5: some apples, baked with washed sultanas, raisins or chopped dates, or a
without the skin, may be fully cooked by this point, in combination of these.
which case, skip steps 6 and 7.

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26 Apple charlotte 

Ingredient 8 individual 6 Butter the moulds, dip half the circles in the
or 2 small clarified butter and place them butter-side down
charlotte
moulds
in the base of each mould.
Dessert apples (Cox’s) 1 kg 7 Next, dip the bread fingers and line them around
the outside of the moulds, slightly overlapping.
Butter 30 g
8 Fill the centre with the apple filling, pressing in
Caster sugar 100 g
carefully.
Lemon, zest of 1
9 Dip the rest of the circles in the butter and place
Breadcrumbs
on top, pressing firmly.
Large, thin-sliced loaf of bread 1
10 Bake at 230 °C for 30–40 minutes until the bread
Clarified butter 250 g is coloured and crisp.
11 Allow to cool slightly before unmoulding; serve
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
2,163 kJ 515 kcal 22.3 g 9.3 g 74.5 g 23.4 g 9.4 g 6.1 g with hot apricot sauce or crème anglaise.
Using hard margarine instead of butter.
Professional tip
1 Peel, core and cut the apples into thick slices.
As this dessert will most likely be plated and sent
2 Melt the butter in a pan, add the sugar and finely from the kitchen, it will more often than not be made
grated lemon zest. in individual portions. Larger versions (such as that
in the photograph) would be suitable for family or
3 Add the apples and simmer until barely cooked,
silver service, but could not be cut and made to look
stir in some breadcrumbs to absorb any liquid. presentable if served from the kitchen.
4 Cut out circles of bread for the top and base of
the moulds.
5 Cut the crusts and the rest of the bread into Variation
fingers 2–3 cm wide, depending on whether you Replace the apples with pears, or use a mixture of both.
are making individual or larger charlottes.

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Faults
A common fault is that the charlotte collapses when
unmoulded (the larger versions are more prone to this).
The main reasons for this are:
l The filling is too wet. To avoid this, ensure that cooking
apples are never used, and do not overcook.
l The bread is not baked crisp enough to withstand the
pressure of supporting the filling.
If making individual charlottes, make sure that the ratio of
bread to filling is not compromised by using bread that is
cut too thick or overlapping too much.

27 Apple fritters (beignets aux pommes) 

Mixed fruit fritters

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Peel and core the apples and cut into 0.5 cm
rings.
Cooking apples 400 g 1 kg
2 Pass through flour, shake off the surplus.
Flour, as needed
Frying batter 150 g 375 g
3 Dip into the frying batter (see page 194).

Apricot sauce 125 ml 300 ml


4 Lift out with the fingers, into fairly hot deep fat:
185 °C.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre 5 Cook for about 5 minutes on each side.
1,034 kJ 246 kcal 10.2 g 1.9 g 38.9 g 25.0 g 2.1 g 3.0 g
6 Drain well on kitchen paper, dust with icing sugar
Fried in peanut oil.
and glaze under the salamander.
Serve with hot apricot sauce.

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28 Griottines clafoutis 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Eggs 2 5
Caster sugar 40 g 100 g
Flour 40 g 100 g
Milk 175 ml 440 ml
Kirsch 1 tsp 1 tbsp
Griottine cherries 28 70
Neige décor to dust

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


790 kJ 187 kcal 4.3 g 1.5 g 28.8 g 21.4 g 6.7 g 1.3 g

This dish originates from the Limousin region of France


Variation
and is traditionally made with black cherries. l Griottines work particularly well in this dish but could
1 Whisk the eggs and sugar together. be substituted for any other hard or fleshy fruit.
l Substitute 25 per cent of the flour with ground
2 Add the flour and whisk until smooth.
almonds or hazelnuts.
3 Add the milk and kirsch; mix well and pass l To make a richer mixture, substitute up to half the
through a conical strainer. milk with cream.
4 Brush four (or ten) sur le plat dishes with soft
butter. Professional tip
5 Add seven cherries to each dish and pour over l Good-quality clafoutis should be golden brown
the batter. and will rise around the edges but stay flatter in the
centre. Check to make sure they are set; if not, bake
6 Bake at 200 °C for 12–15 minutes until the batter
for a little longer.
has risen and set. l Like most batters, this one benefits from resting
7 Serve warm, dusted with neige décor or icing before cooking and can be made the day before.
sugar, and a kirsch sabayon. l Clafoutis can also be made in Yorkshire pudding tins
and served unmoulded.

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29 Rice pudding

4 Wash the rice and sprinkle into the boiling milk,


stir, cover with a lid and allow to simmer until the
rice is tender.
5 In a bowl whisk the eggs and sugar and drop in
the butter.
6 Ladle a quarter of the boiling milk and rice on
to the liaison, mix well and return all to the pan,
carefully cook out until the mixture thickens,
before removing from the heat (it must not be
allowed to boil).
7 Place into suitable individual or large (usually
china) dishes.
8 Grate with nutmeg and glaze under the
salamander.
Serve with a warm seasonal fruit compote.

Variation
Place some good-quality jam in the base of the dish.
Place in a serving dish before piping meringue on top
and baking in a hot oven until coloured.
Leftover rice pudding can be used as an alternative
to crème pâtissière or frangipane as a filling for a
Ingredient 10 portions baked flan.

Milk 650 ml
Vanilla pod 1 Health and safety
Short grain rice 60 g As this recipe requires some ingredients that are not
Liaison boiled, ensure all work surfaces and equipment are kept
Pasteurised egg 60 g
scrupulously clean.

Caster sugar 60 g It is recommended that pasteurised eggs are used.

Butter (diced) 30 g Rice pudding can be held over service at a temperature


of no less than 75 °C for 2 hours.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Any leftover rice pudding must be cooled to below 5 °C
455 kJ 108 kcal 4.5 g 2.5 g 14.5 g 9.4 g 3.5 g 0.1 g 0.1 g within 20 minutes, labelled and stored in a refrigerator.

1 Rinse a heavy pan with cold water and add the


milk. Professional tip
2 Split the vanilla pod, scrape out the seeds and Rinsing out the saucepan with cold water and adding
add along with the pod. the milk to the wet pan will help prevent the milk from
catching on the bottom.
3 Slowly bring to the boil.

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30 Baked rice pudding (pouding de riz) 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Rice, short or whole grain 50 g 125 g
Sugar, caster or unrefined 50 g 125 g
Milk (whole, semi-skimmed or 0.5 litres 1.25 litres
skimmed)
Butter or margarine 10 g 25 g
Vanilla essence 2–3 drops 6–8 drops
Grated nutmeg

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,006 kJ 239 kcal 7.0 g 3.9 g 40.7 g 19.0 g 5.8 g 0.6 g

Using whole milk and hard margarine.

1 Wash the rice and place it in a pie dish or 5 Bake at 180–200 °C, until the milk starts
individual dishes. simmering.
2 Add the sugar and milk, and mix well. 6 Reduce the heat and allow the pudding to cook
3 Add the butter, vanilla essence and nutmeg. slowly, allowing 1½–2 hours in all (less time for
individual dishes).
4 Place on a baking sheet; clean the rim of the pie
The pudding may be garnished with nuts, as shown.
dish.

31 Sticky toffee pudding

Ingredient 10 puddings
Dates 375 g
Water 625 ml
Butter 125 g
Caster sugar 375 g
Eggs 5
Soft flour 375 g
Baking powder 10 g
Vanilla compound 1 tsp

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


4,104 kJ 980 kcal 60.4 g 36.7 g 106.7 g 78.9 g 9.1 g 1.8 g

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1 Remove stones and chop the dates, place in the Sticky toffee sauce
water and simmer for about 5 minutes until soft,
set aside to cool. Granulated sugar 600 g
2 Butter and sugar individual dariole moulds. Unsalted butter 300 g
3 Cream the butter and sugar until light in colour Double cream 450 g
and aerated.
Brandy 30 ml
4 Gradually add the beaten eggs, beating
continuously. 1 Make a dry caramel by carefully melting the sugar
5 Sieve the flour and baking powder twice and fold in. until a deep golden colour is achieved.
6 Finally add the dates and water and vanilla 2 Cut the butter into small cubes, add to the cream
compound. and heat.
7 Fill the moulds three-quarters full and bake at 3 Gradually add the hot cream and butter to the
180 °C for 30–35 minutes. caramel a little at a time.
4 Finally stir in the brandy.
Professional tip To serve, coat the pudding with the sauce and serve
Sticky toffee pudding can be steamed instead of baked. with vanilla or milk ice cream.
If steaming, remember to cover with a disc of silicone
paper and seal with a pleated square of foil, as for
steamed puddings (Recipe 38).

32 Cabinet pudding 

1 Cut the cake into 0.5 cm dice.


2 Mix with the lemon zest and fruits (which can be
soaked in rum).
3 Place in a greased, sugared charlotte mould or 4
dariole moulds. Do not fill more than halfway.
4 Warm the milk and whisk on to the eggs, sugar
and essence (or vanilla pod).
5 Strain on to the mould.
6 Place in a roasting tin, half full of water; allow to
stand for 5–10 minutes.
7 Cook in a moderate oven at 150–160 °C for
30–45 minutes.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
8 Leave to set for a few minutes before turning out.
Plain sponge cake 100 g 250 g
Serve a fresh egg custard (page 558) or hot apricot
Zest of unwaxed lemons, grated sauce separately.
Currants and sultanas 25 g 60 g
Milk, whole or skimmed 0.5 litres 1.25 litres Variation
Eggs 3–4 8–10 Diplomat pudding is made as for cabinet pudding, but
served cold with either redcurrant, raspberry, apricot or
Caster or unrefined sugar 50 g 125 g
vanilla sauce.
Vanilla essence or a vanilla pod 2–3 drops 7 drops (2 pods)
(1 pod)

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,512 kJ 360 kcal 17.3 g 7.7 g 40.9 g 35.5 g 12.7 g 0.7 g

Using whole milk and 4 eggs.


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33 Soufflé pudding

1 Boil the milk in a sauteuse.


2 Combine the flour, butter and sugar.
3 Whisk into the milk and reboil.
4 Remove from heat, add the egg yolks one at a
time, whisking continuously.
5 Stiffly beat the whites and carefully fold into the
mixture.
6 Three-quarters fill buttered and sugared dariole
moulds.
7 Place in a roasting tin, half full of water.
8 Bring to the boil and place in a hot oven at
230–250 °C for 12–15 minutes.
9 Turn out on to a flat dish.
Ingredient 5 portions 10 portions Serve with a suitable hot sauce, such as custard or
Milk, whole or skimmed 185 ml 375 ml sabayon sauce.
Flour, white or wholemeal 25 g 50 g
Variation
Butter or margarine 25 g 50 g
Orange or lemon soufflé pudding is made by flavouring
Caster or unrefined sugar 25 g 50 g the basic mixture with the grated zest of an orange or
Eggs, separated 3 6 lemon and a little appropriate sauce. Use the juice in the
accompanying sauce.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
510 kJ 122 kcal 7.6 g 3.2 g 5.9 g 4.8 g 0.2 g 0.0 g

Using white flour and hard margarine.

34 Chocolate fondant 

Ingredient 10 portions
Unsalted butter 260 g
Dark couverture 260 g
Eggs, pasteurised 120 g
Egg yolks, pasteurised 40 g
Caster sugar 150 g
Instant coffee 5g
Plain flour 110 g
Baking powder 5g
Cocoa powder 75 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
2,830 kJ 675 kcal 46.8 g 29.6 g 55.9 g 40.9 g 11.0 g 0.6 g Salt Pinch

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1 Melt the butter and couverture together. 6 Pipe into individual stainless steel rings lined with
2 Warm the eggs, egg yolks, sugar and coffee and silicone paper and placed on a silicone paper-
whisk to the ribbon stage. lined baking sheet.
3 Sieve all the dry ingredients twice. 7 Bake at 190 °C for 5 minutes.
4 Fold the chocolate and butter into the eggs. 8 Carefully slide off the rings and serve with vanilla
ice cream.
5 Fold in the dry ingredients.

1 Melt the chocolate and butter in 2 Fold the melted chocolate into the 3 Add the dry ingredients.
small pieces. egg mixture.

4 To make a contrasting centre, add 5 Pipe in more of the chocolate


white chocolate pieces on a base mixture until the mould is full.
of the chocolate mixture.

Professional tip Variation


These fondants can be kept in the refrigerator and Try adding salted caramel to the centre by making and
cooked to order. If they are chilled, then extend the freezing it in ice cube trays.
cooking time by 2 minutes.
Serve with malt ice cream (just add malt powder instead
Chocolate fondant should have a liquid centre with a of vanilla and mix in some crushed chocolates) or
rich, buttery, chocolate taste. Because of the liquid replace the cream with crème fraiche to give a less rich
centre, they are very delicate; if piped inside a ring they ice cream.
are much easier and quicker to serve, rather than trying
to turn them out of a mould. Prepare fondants in moulds lined with melted butter and
roasted sesame seeds.
Precise timing is essential or the centre of the fondant
will not be liquid.
Like most recipes, the quality of the finished product
relies on the quality of the ingredients. Always use
good-quality chocolate (couverture) which contains a
high percentage of cocoa butter and solids.

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35 Bread and butter pudding 

5 To make the custard, split the vanilla pod, add to


the milk and cream and slowly bring to the boil.
6 Whisk the eggs and sugar together and add the
boiling liquid, leave to infuse for 5 minutes before
passing through a conical strainer.
7 Pour the custard over the bread and grate on
some fresh nutmeg.
8 Place in a bain-marie and place in a moderate
oven at 160 °C, pour hot water into the bain-marie
until it comes half way up the dish.
9 Bake for around 45 minutes until the custard is
just set.
10 Once removed from the oven sprinkle with sugar
Ingredient 10 portions and place under the salamander to crisp up and
Washed sultanas 100 g
colour the top.
Thin slices of white bread Approximately 5 11 Finally, brush with boiled apricot glaze and serve
with pouring cream or crème fraiche.
Butter, melted 200 g
Custard
Professional tip
Vanilla pod 1 Add the custard in two or three lots, allowing it to soak
Milk 300 ml in before adding the next. This will prevent the bread
Cream 300 ml
floating to the top.

Eggs 5
Caster sugar 100 g Variation
Nutmeg This pudding can be made in individual dishes or baked
To finish in a tray and cut and plated.
Apricot jam 100 g Try using alternatives to bread such as fruit loaf, brioche,
baguette slices or panettone.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Soak the sultanas in rum the day before.
1463 kJ 350 kcal 23.0 g 14.4 g 34.0 g 27.0 g 3.7 g 0.3 g 0.4 g
Try adding a layer of caramelised apple slices.
1 Butter an earthenware or other suitable dish and A chocolate version can be made by adding couverture
sprinkle with some of the sultanas. (good-quality chocolate) to the custard.
2 Cut the crusts off the bread, dip in melted butter
on both sides and cut in half diagonally. Healthy eating tips
3 Arrange overlapping bread slices neatly in the l Reduce the sugar content and add more dried fruit,
dish. apricots or cranberries.
l Try using milk only, semi-skimmed or skimmed.
4 Sprinkle with more sultanas and cover with l Dip the bread in the butter on just one side to reduce
another layer of bread. the fat content.

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36 Apple crumble tartlets 

Ingredient 10 tarts 1 Line individual tartlet moulds with the sweet


paste.
Sweet paste 500 g
2 Peel, core and finely slice the apples and divide
Dessert apples 5
between the tartlets.
Filling
3 Whisk together the soured cream, sugar, flour,
Soured cream 500 ml
egg and a few drops of vanilla, and pass through
Caster sugar 70 g
a conical strainer.
Plain flour 75 g
4 Pour over the apples and bake at 190 °C for
Egg 1 10 minutes.
Vanilla extract 5 Combine the dry crumble ingredients and mix
Crumble with the melted butter.
Plain flour 80 g 6 Divide the crumble mixture between the tartlets
Walnuts, chopped 60 g and bake for a further 10 minutes.
Brown sugar 65 g 7 Allow to cool slightly before unmoulding. Dust
Ground cinnamon Pinch with icing sugar and serve with sauce à l’anglaise.
Salt Pinch
Unsalted butter, melted 65 g
Variation

Icing sugar, to decorate This dish could be made with pears or plums instead
of apples.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2200 kJ 541 kcal 36.0 g 19.3 g 51.0 g 20.0 g 7.3 g 2.6 g 0.3 g

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37 Tarte tatin 

Ingredient 10 portions 1 Make a dry caramel by placing the granulated


sugar in a hot heavy-based saucepan. When the
Granulated sugar 500 g
sugar reaches a deep amber colour, pour it out
Soft butter 120 g
onto a silicone mat and leave to cool completely.
Caster sugar 120 g
2 When cold, crush the caramel into small pieces.
Dessert apples 5
3 Take a medium-sized sauteuse and spread the
Caramel, crushed 120 g butter thickly around the base and sides. Sprinkle
Puff paste 150 g over the caster sugar and then sprinkle over the
caramel. (Any spare caramel can be stored in an
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium airtight container for later use.)
1946 kJ 462 kcal 15.2 g 7.2 g 85.2 g 79.9 g 1.0 g 1.3 g 0.2 g
4 Peel, core and halve the apples (if large, cut into
quarters) and pack into the sauteuse core-side up
Note and with the cores running horizontally, not facing
This is the name given to an apple tart that is cooked outside.
under a lid of pastry, but then served with the pastry 5 Roll out the pastry 2 mm thick and leave to rest.
underneath the fruit. This is a delicious dessert in which
6 Place the pan on a medium heat for
the taste of caramel is combined with the flavour of the
fruit and finished with a crisp pastry base. It was the 10–12 minutes to allow the caramel to melt and
creation of the Tatin sisters, who ran a hotel-restaurant infuse.
in Lamotte-Beuvron at the beginning of the last century. 7 Quickly lay over the pastry and trim, tucking the
Having been made famous by the Tatin sisters the
edges down the side of the pan.
dish was first served at Maxim’s in Paris as a house
speciality. It is still served there to this day. 8 Bake at 220 °C for 15 minutes until the pastry is
crisp and the apples cooked through.
9 Invert onto a hot plate – please be aware this
procedure can be tricky and requires two dry
cloths and very careful handling.
10 Serve with cream, crème fraiche or ice cream.

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38 Steamed sponge pudding 

6 Fill buttered dariole moulds three-quarters full.


7 Place a disc of silicone paper on top and cover
with foil; create a pleat to allow for expansion and
crimp the edges around the lip of the mould to
seal.
8 Steam for 45–50 minutes.

Flavours for sponge puddings


l Vanilla: scrape the seeds from a vanilla pod into the
mixture at the creaming stage. Use the pod to flavour
the accompanying crème anglaise.
l Chocolate: replace 50 g of the flour in the basic
Ingredient 10 individual recipe with an equal amount of cocoa powder, and
puddings add 150 g ground almonds, a pinch of sea salt, a
splash of coffee essence and two more eggs. Add
Butter 250 g
extra butter to the base of the mould and cover
Caster sugar 250 g with muscovado sugar before filling. Serve with hot
Self-raising flour 250 g chocolate sauce.
l Lemon or orange: add the grated zest of a large
Baking powder 15 g lemon or an orange to the mixture at the creaming
Eggs 6 stage. Serve with lemon or orange sauce as
appropriate.
Milk 20–40 g
l Sultana: add 100 g of washed sultanas and a
few drops of vanilla compound. Serve with crème
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium anglaise. The sultanas may be replaced by any dried
1755 kJ 418 kcal 24.0 g 14.1 g 46.0 g 27.0 g 6.3 g 0.9 g 0.6 g
fruit.
l Ginger: add 10 g of ground ginger (sieved in with the
1 Cream the butter and sugar until lighter in colour dry ingredients) and 50 g of finely diced stem ginger
and an increase in volume of approximately folded in at the end. Serve with crème anglaise.
30 per cent is achieved. l Golden syrup: after buttering the mould pour a
generous layer of warmed golden syrup into the base
2 Sieve the flour and baking powder twice to ensure before adding the sponge mixture. Serve with crème
even dispersion. anglaise sweetened with golden syrup.
3 Beat the eggs and gradually add to the butter and l Chocolate and fig/date: add six diced figs or dates
to the chocolate recipe above.
sugar, beating in each addition before adding the
next.
4 Finally, fold in the dry ingredients. Note
5 Add enough milk to achieve a dropping A good-quality steamed sponge pudding will be light,
consistency. moist and slightly spongy in texture. As steaming at
100 °C imparts no colour, it should be as light in colour
as the ingredients allow.

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39 Golden syrup pudding 

Ingredient 5 portions 12 portions 1 Sieve the flour, salt and baking powder (or replace
the flour and baking powder with self-raising flour)
Flour 150 g 300 g
into a bowl.
Salt pinch large pinch
2 Mix the suet, sugar and zest.
Baking powder 10 g 20 g
3 Add the beaten egg and milk and mix to a
Suet, chopped 75 g 150 g
medium dough.
Caster or unrefined sugar 50 g 100 g
4 Pour the syrup in a well-greased basin or
Lemon, zest of 1 2 individual moulds (1 hour cooking time). Place the
Egg, beaten 1 2 pudding mixture on top.
Milk, whole or skimmed 125 ml 250 ml 5 Cover securely; steam for 1½–2 hours.
Golden syrup 125 ml 250 ml Serve with a sauceboat of warm syrup containing the
lemon juice, or with sauce anglaise or ice cream.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
1315 kJ 313 kcal 13.0 g 5.9 g 47.8 g 26.6 g 4.3 g 0.9 g
Variation
To make a treacle pudding, use a light treacle in place of
the golden syrup. Vegetarian suet is available.

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40 Christmas pudding 

Ingredient 2 × 1 kg 1 Place all the dried fruit in a bowl, pour over


puddings the Guinness and cognac and leave to soak
Currants 175 g overnight.
Sultanas 175 g 2 Sieve the flour with the mixed spice, grate over
Raisins 350 g the nutmeg and cinnamon and place in a large
bowl.
Guinness 500 ml
3 Add the breadcrumbs, suet, peel and ground
Cognac 50 ml
almonds and mix well.
Strong flour 175 g
4 Make a well in the centre.
Mixed spice 4g
5 Whisk the eggs, sugar and salt, add the lemon
Nutmeg 4g
juice and zest.
Cinnamon 4g
6 Pour the wet ingredients into the well and add the
Breadcrumbs 175 g
soaked fruit.
Suet 350 g
7 Mix well.
Mixed peel 80 g
8 Place mixture into two buttered pudding basins,
Ground almonds 80 g cover with a disc of silicone paper and seal with
Eggs 4 foil, crimping around the edges.
Soft dark brown sugar 175 g 9 Steam for 7 hours, cool and store in the fridge.
Salt 3g 10 Reheat in the steamer for a couple of hours.
Lemon, juice and zest of 1 Serve with brandy or rum sauce and/or brandy butter.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Professional tip
2077 kJ 495 kcal 23.9 g 11.6 g 64.9 g 45.8 g 6.3 g 3.6 g 0.2 g
Like a Christmas fruit cake, Christmas pudding is best
For 1⁄8 of a pudding. made in September and allowed to mature.

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41 Vanilla soufflé

3 When all the milk has been added, allow to


simmer for a few minutes.
4 Whisk the egg yolks and sugar. Add to the
mixture in the saucepan and keep stirring over the
heat until the mixture starts to bubble around the
edges. This forms the panada.
5 Pour on to a clean tray and cover with cling film to
prevent a skin forming. Allow to cool. (This can be
kept in the fridge until needed, as soufflés must
be cooked to order.)
6 Take 400 g of the base and beat in a clean bowl
until smooth.
7 Whisk the egg whites, sugar, cornflour and lemon
juice to form firm peaks.
Ingredient 10 individual 8 Add one-third of the whites to the base and mix
soufflés in, then very carefully fold in the remaining whites.
Base mixture
9 Carefully fill prepared individual china ramekins
Milk 500 ml (see below). Level the top and run your thumb
Vanilla pods 2 around the edge, moving the mixture away from
Butter 75 g the lip of the mould.
Strong flour 60 g 10 Space well apart on a solid baking sheet (if they
Egg yolks 10 are close together they will not rise evenly and will
bake stuck together).
Caster sugar 50 g
Additional ingredients for every 400 g of base mixture
11 Place immediately in the oven at 215 °C for
12–14 minutes.
Egg whites 150 g
12 The soufflés should rise out of the moulds by
Caster sugar 60 g
around 5–6 cm and have a flat top with no cracks.
Cornflour 12 g
13 Dust with icing sugar and serve immediately with
Lemon juice 2–3 drops
fruit coulis and/or ice cream (chocolate or vanilla).

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


932 kJ 223 kcal 13.7 g 6.7 g 19.5 g 13.9 g 6.6 g 0.2 g
Preparing a soufflé mould
Mould preparation is very important. The rule is to butter
1 Rinse a heavy saucepan with cold water and the sides twice and the bottom once. Always use soft,
add the milk. Split the vanilla pod, scrape out the not melted, butter, so that it stays where you put it. Give
seeds, and add both to the milk. Put on the heat the moulds one coat all over to start with, then place in
to boil. the fridge to set before giving a second coat only to the
sides. (Giving the base two coats results in a puddle of
2 Melt the butter in another heavy pan. Add the butter in the bottom.)
flour and cook out to form a white roux. Gradually
After giving the sides a second coat of butter, the mould
add the boiling milk, mixing in each addition is usually coated with sugar.
before adding the next.

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Prepare the mould Knock one-third of the meringue into the panada

Fold in the remaining meringue Thumb the edge

Faults
Soufflé does not rise: Soufflé does not rise evenly:
l under- or over-beaten whites l moulds not prepared correctly (mixture has stuck to
l wrong proportion of whites to base the mould on one side)
l mixture left to stand before cooking l uneven heat in the oven.
l moulds not buttered correctly.
Soufflé has a cracked top:
Soufflé rises but drops back: l too much egg white used
l too much egg white used. l egg white is overbeaten.

Professional tips Variation


l Be organised with your timings. Make sure you have This vanilla recipe is basic and can easily be adapted. For
the moulds fully prepared and that the oven is up to example, a chocolate soufflé can be made by adding
heat well before the egg whites are whisked. melted chocolate and cocoa powder to the base. This
l Before whisking the egg whites, scald the bowl to will firm up the base mixture, so the whites mixture will
remove any trace of fat. need to be increased by 25–30 per cent to compensate.
l When the egg whites are whisked with the sugar,
lemon juice and cornflour, they should be firm but Soufflés can be made in many different flavours and
creamy. Over-whisking will ruin them. combinations. Recipes can vary considerably. For
l The recipe uses more egg white than is needed – example, fruit soufflés can be made using a sabayon
always take from the centre and leave behind the egg or a boiled sugar base.
white on the edge of the bowl, which is never good. As an alternative to coating the moulds with sugar,
l A soufflé should have flavour as well as an impressive if compatible, dust them with cocoa powder, grated
‘rise’. Too much egg white can dilute the flavour. chocolate or try adding some cinnamon to the sugar.

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42 Mango soufflé

To make the mango compote:


1 Remove the skin and stone from the mango and
cut into small, neat dice.
2 Pour hot stock syrup over the mango dice and
leave to cool.
To make the soufflés:
1 Bring the milk and mango purée to the boil.
2 Make the liaison by whisking the egg yolks with
the caster sugar. Sieve in the cornflour and
continue whisking until smooth.
3 Add one-third of the boiling liquid to the liaison.
4 Bring the rest of the liquid back to the boil. Whisk
the liaison into it, then continue whisking until it
returns to the boil. Simmer for 2–3 minutes. Cover
and cool.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 5 Whisk the egg whites, lemon juice, sugar and
Mango compote cornflour together to the consistency of shaving
Mango 1 2½ foam. Fold this into the cooled mango pastry
cream mixture.
Stock syrup 100–125 ml 250–300 ml
Mango soufflés
6 Place a spoonful of mango compote into the
bottom of each prepared soufflé mould (see
Milk 100 ml 250 ml
recipe 41 for soufflé mould preparation). Pour in
Mango purée 150 ml 375 ml
the soufflé mixture and level it off with a palette
Egg yolks 80 ml 200 ml knife.
Caster sugar for liaison 60 g 150 g 7 Bake at 200 °C for approximately 12 minutes.
Cornflour for liaison 15 g 40 g 8 Remove carefully from the oven, dredge with icing
Egg whites 150 ml 375 ml sugar and serve immediately.
Lemon juice a few drops a few drops
Caster sugar 30 g 75 g
Cornflour 5g 12 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,116 kJ 264 kcal 6.8 g 2.1 g 45.0 g 34.6 g 8.5 g 4.8 g

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43 Lemon curd flourless soufflé

To make the lemon curd:


1 Prepare by whisking all the ingredients over a pan
of simmering water until the mixture thickens.
2 After preparing the soufflé moulds as described in
recipe 41, divide the lemon curd mixture between
them.
To make the soufflés:
1 Separate the eggs. Place together the yolks,
sugar, lemon zest and juice, and whisk together
well.
2 In a separate bowl, whisk the whites with the
cream of tartar and egg-white powder until soft
but in strong peaks.
3 Carefully fold the two mixtures together.
4 Fill the prepared moulds, level the top and run
Ingredient 10 individual your thumb around the edge, moving the mixture
soufflés away from the lip of the mould.
Lemon curd 5 Place well apart on a heavy baking sheet and
Eggs 2 bake at 200 °C for 16–18 minutes.
Caster sugar 100 g 6 Dust with icing sugar and serve immediately.
Lemons, juice of 5
Unsalted butter 60 g Note
Cornflour 15 g As this dessert is gluten-free it would be suitable for
Soufflés coeliacs or those with a wheat intolerance.
Eggs 9
Caster sugar 190 g
Lemons, zest and juice of 5
Cream of tartar Pinch
Egg-white powder Pinch

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,179 kJ 280 kcal 13.3 g 5.7 g 31.7 g 30.4 g 10.1 g 0.1 g

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44 Baked Alaska 

1 Sit the ice cream or parfait on a base of sponge.


2 Cut more sponge to fit and completely cover.
3 Brush all over with the syrup.
4 Set on squares of silicone paper, coat with the
meringue and decorate by piping on a design with
a small plain tube.
5 Dust with icing sugar and place in a very hot oven
at 230 °C for 2–3 minutes until the meringue is
coloured.
Serve immediately with crème anglaise or a fruit coulis.

Professional tip
Baked Alaska is best made in advance and held in
the freezer, then flashed through the oven just before
Ingredient 10 portions
serving. It is now common practice to colour the
Vanilla ice cream or parfait 10 × 5 cm meringue with a blowtorch, but the meringue will have
diameter rings a much better texture and more even colouring if it is
(500 g approx.)
finished in the oven.
Roulade sponge (see page 495) 1 sheet
If making individual baked Alaskas, as in the
Stock syrup flavoured with rum or kirsch 50 ml photographs, take care not to upset the balance
Italian meringue 500 g between filling and meringue – when scaled down it is
easy to pipe on too much meringue.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
290 kJ 521 kcal 16.4 g 7.3 g 91.3 g 81.2 g 7.7 g 0.6 g

Health and safety


Variation Under no circumstances should this dessert be re-
frozen once it has been removed from the freezer and
Classic variations are omelette soufflé milady, which baked. Ice cream is highly susceptible to contamination
contains poached sliced peaches with vanilla or by bacteria, which can cause food poisoning.
raspberry ice cream, and omelette soufflé milord, which
contains poached sliced pear with vanilla ice cream.

Brush the sponge with syrup Pipe meringue to cover Pipe swirls of meringue to decorate

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Sweet sauces

45 Sabayon sauce

Ingredient 8 portions
(450–500 ml)
Egg yolks, pasteurised 6
Caster or unrefined sugar 100 g
Dry white wine 250 ml

1 Whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a 1-litre pan or


basin until white.
2 Dilute with the wine.
3 Place the pan or basin in a bain-marie of boiling
water.
4 Whisk the mixture continuously until it increases
its bulk by four times and is firm and frothy.

Note
Sauce sabayon may be offered as an accompaniment to
any suitable hot sweet (for example, soufflés or pudding
soufflé).

Variation
A sauce sabayon may also be made using milk in place
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre of wine, which can be flavoured according to taste (for
454 kJ 108 kcal 3.4 g 1.0 g 13.3 g 13.3 g 1.8 g 0.0 g
example, with vanilla, nutmeg or cinnamon).
Using 5 egg yolks.

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46 Fresh egg custard sauce (sauce à l’anglaise)

1 Mix the yolks, sugar and vanilla in a bowl.


2 Whisk in the boiled milk and return to a thick-
bottomed pan.
3 Place on a low heat and stir with a wooden spoon
until it coats the back of the spoon. Do not allow
the mix to boil or the egg will scramble. A probe
can be used to ensure the temperature does not
go any higher than 85 °C.
4 Put through a fine sieve into a clean bowl. Set
on ice to seize the cooking process and to chill
rapidly.

Variation
Other flavours may be used in place of vanilla, for
example:
l brandy
l cardamom seeds
l chocolate
l coffee or coffee liqueur
l kirsch
l orange flower water
l orange liqueur
Ingredient 300 ml 700 ml
l rum
Egg yolks, pasteurised 40 ml 100 ml l star anise
Caster or unrefined sugar 25 g 60 g l whisky.

Vanilla extract or vanilla pod (seeds) 2–3 drops/ 5–7 drops/


½ pod 1 pod
Milk, whole or skimmed, boiled 250 ml 625 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
281 kJ 67 kcal 3.7 g 1.6 g 6.3 g 6.3 g 2.5 g 0.0 g 0.0 g

For 50 ml of sauce, using whole milk.

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47 Custard sauce

Ingredient Makes 250 ml


Custard powder 10 g
Milk, whole or semi-skimmed 250 ml
Caster or unrefined sugar 25 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,245 kJ 296 kcal 9.6 g 6.0 g 47.2 g 38.0 g 8.3 g 0.3 g

Using whole milk.

1 Dilute the custard powder with a little of the milk.


2 Boil the remainder of the milk.
3 Pour a little of the boiled milk on to the diluted
custard powder.
4 Return to the saucepan.
5 Stir to the boil and mix in the sugar.

48 Fruit coulis

Ingredient 1.4 litres


Fruit purée 1 litre
Caster sugar 500 g
Lemon juice 10 g

1 Warm the purée.


2 Boil the sugar with a little water to soft-ball stage
(121 °C).
3 Pour the soft-ball sugar into the warm fruit purée
while whisking vigorously. Add the lemon juice.
Bring back to the boil.
4 This will then be ready to store.

Professional tip
The reason the soft-ball stage needs to be achieved
when the sugar is mixed with the purée is that this
stabilises the fruit and prevents separation once the
coulis is presented on the plate.
Adding lemon juice brings out the flavour of the fruit.

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49 Strawberry sauce

Ingredient Makes 225 ml Makes 600 ml


Strawberries (fresh or puréed) 200 g 500 g
Icing sugar 50 g 125 g
Lemon juice 10 ml 25 ml

Blend all the ingredients together (using a liquidiser if


using fresh fruit) and strain through a fine sieve.

Variation
Alternative fruits or purées that can be used include:
peach, apricot, mango, paw paw, blackberry and
raspberry. For peach sauce, for example, proceed as
above, substituting peach purée for the strawberries.

50 Chocolate sauce

Method 1
Ingredient 300 ml 750 ml
Double cream 150 ml 375 ml
Butter 25 g 60 g
Milk or plain couverture callets 180 g 420 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1287 kJ 310 kcal 26.0 g 16.0 g 17.5 g 17.5 g 2.7 g 0.2 g 0.1 g

For 50 ml of sauce, using milk chocolate.

1 Place the cream and butter in a saucepan and


gently bring to a simmer.
2 Add the chocolate and stir well until the chocolate
has melted and the sauce is smooth.

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Method 2
Ingredient 300 ml 750 ml 1 Dissolve the sugar in the water over a low heat.
Caster sugar 40 g 100 g 2 Remove from the heat. Stir in the chocolate and
butter.
Water 120 ml 300 ml
Dark chocolate couverture 160 g 400 g
3 When everything has melted, stir in the cream
(75 per cent cocoa solids) and gently bring to the boil.
Unsalted butter 25 g 65 g Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1012 kJ 244 kcal 18.7 g 11.5 g 13.9 g 13.0 g 2.9 g 2.6 g 0.0 g
Single cream 80 ml 200 ml For 50 ml of sauce.

51 Butterscotch sauce

Ingredient 300 ml 750 ml


Double cream 250 ml 625 ml
Butter 62 g 155 g
Demerara sugar 100 g 250 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1454 kJ 351 kcal 31.0 g 19.4 g 18.3 g 18.3 g 0.8 g 0.0 g 0.2 g

For 50 ml of sauce.

1 Boil the cream, then whisk in the butter and


sugar.
2 Simmer for 3 minutes.

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52 Caramel sauce

1 In a large saucepan, dissolve the sugar with the


water over a low heating and bring to boiling
point.
2 Wash down the inside of the pan with a pastry
brush dipped in cold water to prevent crystals
from forming.
3 Cook until the sugar turns to a deep amber
colour. Immediately turn off the heat and whisk in
the cream.
4 Set the pan back over a high heat and stir the
sauce with the whisk. Let it bubble for 2 minutes,
then turn off the heat.
5 You can now strain the sauce and use it when
cooled, or, for a richer, smoother sauce, pour a
little caramel on to the egg yolks, then return the
mixture to the pan and heat to 80 °C, taking care
that it does not boil.
6 Pass the sauce through a conical strainer and
keep in a cool place, stirring occasionally to
prevent a skin from forming.
Ingredient 750 ml
Caster sugar 100 g
Water 80 ml
Double cream 500 ml
Egg yolks, lightly beaten (optional) 2

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
883 kJ 213 kcal 19.9 g 12.1 g 8.1 g 8.1 g 1.0 g 0.0 g 0.0 g

For 50 ml of sauce.

53 Rum or brandy cream or butter


To make rum/brandy cream, flavour whipped,
sweetened cream with rum or brandy to taste.
To make rum/brandy butter, cream equal quantities of
butter and sieved icing sugar together and add rum or
brandy to taste.

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17 Healthy eating and special
diets
This chapter is relevant to the following units:
➜ Produce healthier dishes.
➜ Prepare and cook food to meet requirements of allergy
sufferers.

Healthy eating and The Eatwell plate focuses on the food groups that provide
the basic nutrients. The advice given is that the diet should
producing healthier dishes consist of:
l more starchy foods – such as cereals, breads, pasta,
potatoes and rice; these provide energy and enable the
Why healthy eating is important body to function
Obesity and its related health problems have increased l more fruit and vegetables – aim for five portions
dramatically in recent years. In the UK, for example, an per day. Fruit and vegetables provide vitamins and
estimated 24 million adults are classed as obese. Worldwide, fibre across the diet as well as antioxidants, which are
it is estimated that half a billion adults are obese. There is thought to help prevent some cancers
also concern about the rising numbers of obese children. l moderate amounts of food from the milk and
dairy, and meat, fish and alternative proteins
Healthy eating is not just about reducing obesity, however.
groups – as a guideline, two to three portions from
Research suggests that a third of all cancers are caused by
each group per day; these provide protein and minerals
poor diet. Diet can also be linked to high blood pressure,
that enable the body to maintain itself
heart disease, diabetes, osteoporosis and tooth decay.
l very small amounts of foods containing fats and
Eating a balanced nutritious diet can help to protect us
sugars, and drinks containing sugars – selecting
from these illnesses.
lower-fat options where possible; in addition, foods that
Increasing numbers of people now eat away from their own are high in salt should be restricted. These foods are
homes so those providing the food have a responsibility to linked to heart disease, strokes, high blood pressure and
be mindful of good nutrition. obesity; by reducing our intake, we help to reduce the
risk of these diseases.
Food, nutrition and exercise are crucial to our health and
well-being. There is no doubt that making the right choices Information on the portions of different types of foods
about what we eat and drink, combined with taking regular that make up a healthy diet is given in the Eatwell plate
exercise, can protect against many diseases and poor from the UK government. For more information visit:
health. There are also many immediate health and lifestyle www.dh.gov.uk/en/Publichealth/Nutrition/index.htm.
benefits to be gained from healthy eating.
Media coverage and advice on nutrition can seem
confusing but the most reliable advice remains the same
A balanced diet and good health and is outlined in Table 17.1 below.
Foods are not ‘good’ or ‘bad’ – it is the overall balance of
the diet that matters. This means having a variety of foods,
basing meals on starchy foods and eating at least five
portions of fruit and vegetables a day. The balance to strive
for is illustrated in nationally agreed advice, the Eatwell
plate (see next page).

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The Eatwell plate

Table 17.1 Summing up healthy eating


What it is about What it is not about Immediate benefits
The bulk of the diet needs to come Drastically cutting down on food Better weight control
from starchy foods, preferably
Going hungry Improved self-esteem
wholemeal bread, brown rice and
pasta, and potatoes Depriving yourself of treats Looking and feeling better

Eating more fruit and vegetables Spending more money on food Feeling fitter, with more energy

Eating a little less of some food items Not enjoying food Enjoying a wide variety of foods

Enjoying good food and making wise ‘Brown and boring food’ Not buying expensive ‘diet’ products
food choices
Just salads Knowing that changes made today
Making small, gradual changes will have long-term benefits
Making major changes
Feeling satisfied and good about food
Going on a ‘special diet’

Nutrients from food


Healthy eating is about selecting certain foods that nutrients they need in the quantities that promote good
provide the nutrients that are needed by the body in health. Nutrients perform different functions in the body;
different amounts. If people choose foods in the advised Table 17.2 summarises some of the key nutritional terms you
proportions (mentioned above), they should obtain all the will encounter, plus the current guidance for health.

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Table 17.2 Key nutritional terms and current guidance for health
Nutrient Recommendations for a healthy diet
Fat is a very concentrated source of energy. The same Cut down on fat intake, particularly the saturated types
weight of pure fat has over twice as much energy as (usually from animal sources) that push up blood
sugar or starch. Fat is present in foods in two main types: cholesterol. Switch to foods containing unsaturated fats.
saturated fat in foods from animal sources such as butter, For example, use oils instead of butter and incorporate
cheese, meat and milk; unsaturated fat in foods from more oily fish, such as salmon, in menu planning.
plants (e.g. oils, nuts and seeds) and oily fish (e.g. tuna,
salmon, mackerel).
Carbohydrate may be one of two types: sugars, which We should aim for 50 per cent of our energy from starch,
occur naturally in certain foods such as fruit and honey preferably unrefined starches, and cut back on sugars.
(but are added to many manufactured foods, particularly
confectionery, cakes and biscuits); and starches, found
naturally in satisfying foods such as bread, breakfast
cereals, rice, pasta and potatoes.
Fibre is found in plant foods and aids a healthy digestive On current estimates we all eat around 20 g dietary fibre
system. Good sources include all wholegrain cereals, per day – the healthy goal is around 30 g per day.
pulses, fruits, vegetables and nuts.
Protein is the ‘body-building’ nutrient found in meat, fish, Protein requirements are often overestimated. For example,
cheese and eggs, but also in vegetable sources such as adults only need between 35 g and 50 g of protein per day.
cereals (e.g. pasta, breakfast cereals, bread), pulses and This can be provided by a 100 g portion of chicken plus a
nuts. carton of yoghurt and 200 g of baked beans.
Vitamins and minerals are needed in minute amounts Recommended daily amounts for nine vitamins and
for many bodily processes. Since the body cannot make 11 minerals are given in the government’s report on
these essential micronutrients, they have to be provided by Dietary Reference Values (see www.nutrition.org.uk/
the diet. nutritionscience/nutrients/nutrient-requirements).
Salt is sodium chloride, which is involved in maintaining There is now stronger evidence that our salt intakes are
the body’s water balance. Sodium is a type of mineral; too high (estimated at about 8 g per day) and can lead to
sodium chloride is added to many manufactured foods high blood pressure. The aim should be about 4 g of salt
and in particularly high amounts in cured and snack foods. per day.
Energy comes from carbohydrates, fats, protein and We need to balance energy intake through food with
alcohol. It is measured in calories, or joules, which are so energy output through activity; this is needed for good
tiny they are usually expressed in kilocalories (kcals) or health and control of body weight.
kilojoules (kJ).

Preparing ingredients in a healthy Chefs can be highly influential in healthy eating. The
ingredients and the proportions in which they are used,
way and cooking techniques to plus cooking and service methods chosen, can all influence
maximise nutritional value the nutritional content of a dish or meal. The most effective
Chefs have a vital role in making healthy eating an exciting approach to healthy catering is to make small changes to
reality for us all. Customer trends show that many people popular dishes, which may involve:
l Small changes in portion sizes – for example, adding
are looking for healthier eating options, particularly if they
eat away from home every day. Interest in healthy eating is a bread roll or jacket potato to a meal; this yields more
one of the major consumer trends to emerge in the last 20 starch in proportion to fat (effectively diluting the fat).
l Subtle modifications to recipes – for example, pizzas
years and represents an important and lasting commercial
opportunity for chefs. could be made with a thicker base, topped with
mushrooms and roasted peppers, and with less
As well as escalating consumer demand, in some sectors, mozzarella than usual but a sprinkling of Parmesan
such as school catering, there are strict requirements relating for flavour; omit the salt and rely on Parmesan, black
to nutritional standards. Healthy options and nutritional pepper and chopped oregano to add flavour.
information are now regularly included in contract catering
menus.
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l reduce sugar – replace with a natural sweetener or


alternative
l reduce salt – use herbs or spices to enhance flavour in
place of salt; use of low-salt products.

Reading and interpreting food


labelling
A number of outlets, such as restaurants, pubs, leisure
attractions and cafes, have introduced nutritional
information on their menus. This may include the use
of recognised symbols that indicate a healthy choice or
vegetarian choice, or where a specific item is included in
A healthy portion size: baked hake with vegetables and the dish.
mashed potato
When using prepared commodities in the kitchen it is
important to read the labels correctly. It is now common for
any items on the allergen list to be written in bold as well as
the use of symbols.
Many establishments have agreed to:
l display calorie information for most food and drink they
serve
l print calorie information on menus
l provide recipe cards or information for each dish on the
menu
l ensure the information is clear and easily visible at the
point where people chose their food

Health and safety


A traditional dish made healthier: Mexican bean pot and salad Take care when providing nutritional information on
Chefs are vital in developing healthier recipes that work. menus as there may be a danger of making misleading
claims, which could break the law. If unsure, take advice.
The skill is in deciding how dishes can be modified without
losing quality. Some highly traditional dishes are best left
alone, while subtle changes can be made to others with Sauces, dressings, toppings and
no loss in texture, appearance or flavour. See ‘Healthy
eating tips’ throughout the recipe sections for ideas on
condiments
how to prepare and cook food in a way that maximises Where a variety of sauces, dressings and condiments
nutritional values and how to present healthier dishes that are offered this will give the customer flexibility to make
are attractive to customers. an informed decision with regard to healthier options.
For example, offer butter, crème fraiche or cheese to
The key to healthier catering is to: accompany a baked potato.
l substitute healthier ingredients – for example, use
low-fat yoghurt or crème fraiche instead of cream, use
wholemeal breadcrumbs Special diets
l add extra vegetables – for example, add a garnish to There will be occasions when caterers are asked to provide
a dish; this could increase fibre, vitamins and minerals dishes or information on dishes to meet specific customer
l reduce added fat – for example, use olive oil or dietary requirements. Reasons for special diets generally fall
sunflower oil in place of butter or animal fats; trim fat into three categories:
from meats l belief or ethical choice (for example, vegetarianism)
l change cooking method – grill instead of frying, l religious choice
or steam vegetables instead of boiling to preserve l medical reasons (for example, food intolerance or
vitamins allergy).

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Vegetarian/vegan and other Society advises against); and any dishes made with
these including pasta, noodles, semolina, bread,
ethical diets pastries, some yoghurts, some cheese spreads, barley-
Many people do not eat meat or fish for a variety of reasons, based drinks, malted drinks, beer, some brands of
and some people do not eat any type of dish made with or mustard, and proprietary sauces made with flour (use
containing the products of animals. You should be aware of cornflour to thicken; rice, potato, corn and sago are also
the following diets: acceptable).
l semi-vegetarian or demi-vegetarian: occasionally l Low-cholesterol and saturated fat: liver, egg yolks
eat fish and/or meat and shellfish (which are high in cholesterol), beef, pork
l ovo-vegetarian: do not eat milk and dairy products and lamb (which contain saturated fats), butter, cream,
l lacto-vegetarian: do not eat eggs groundnut oil and margarine (use oils and margarines
l vegan: do not eat any food of animal origin (including labelled high in polyunsaturated fats).
honey, dairy products and eggs); vegetables, fruits, l Low-fat: any food that contains fat or has been fried or
grains, legumes, pasta made without eggs, soya roasted.
products and other products of plants are acceptable l Low-residue: wholemeal bread, brown rice and pasta,
l frutarian or fructarian: eat only fruit, nuts and berries. fried and fatty foods.
l Low-salt: foods and dishes that have had salt added
Religious diets during cooking or processing (including smoked and
cured fishes and meats, and hard cheeses) or contain
Adherents of the religions listed below have strict dietary monosodium glutamate.
requirements: l Nut allergy: nuts, blended cooking oils and margarine
l Hindu: do not eat meat, fish or eggs. Orthodox Hindus
(since these may include nut oil; use pure oils or butter)
are usually strict vegetarians; less-strict Hindus may eat and any dishes containing these (check label).
lamb, poultry and fish, but definitely not beef as cattle
have a deep religious meaning – milk, however, is highly
regarded. Food allergies and
l Jewish: do not eat pork, pork products, shellfish and
eels, meat and milk served at the same time or cooked
intolerances
together. Strict Jews eat only Kosher meat; milk and milk For customers who have an intolerance or allergy to certain
products are usually avoided at lunch and dinner (but foods, these foods can be life threatening. In some cases
are acceptable at breakfast). people suffer anaphylactic shock (swelling of the face and
l Muslim: do not eat pork, meat that is not halal mouth area, which restricts breathing); for others eating
(slaughtered according to custom), shellfish and alcohol foods to which they are allergic or intolerant could cause
(even when used in cooking). severe stomach cramps, causing poor digestion and
l Rastafarian: do not eat processed food, pork, fish absorption of nutrients, which can lead to further health
without fins (eels), alcohol, coffee or tea. complications.
l Sikh: beef, pork, lamb, poultry and fish may be The 14 most-common food allergens include:
acceptable to Sikh men, but Sikh women tend to avoid l cereals containing gluten (wheat, barley, rye and oats in
all meat. some cases)
l crustaceans, for example prawns, crabs, lobster and

Medical diets crayfish


l eggs
For medical reasons, the people on the special diets below
l fish
do not eat the foods listed:
l peanuts
l Dairy/milk-free: milk, butter, cheese, yoghurt and any
l soybeans (as in tofu, TVP, soy sauce)
prepared foods that include milk products (check label).
l milk (including yoghurts and cheese)
l Diabetics: dishes that are high in sugar and/or fat (low-
l nuts, such as almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts, pecan
calorie sweeteners can be used to sweeten desserts).
nuts, Brazil nuts, pistachio, cashew and macadamia
l Gluten-free: wheat, wholemeal, wholewheat and
(Queensland) nuts
wheatmeal flour, wheat bran, rye, barley and oats
l celery (and celeriac)
(some doctors say oats are permitted; the Coeliac
l mustard (including leaves and oil)

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l sesame (oil and tahini) l be receptive to people with a food allergy, asking
l sulphur dioxide (a preservative found in some dried questions about the food on offer
fruit) l let the allergic person or carer check food labels and
l lupin (seeds and flour) speak to the chef themselves
l molluscs, for example clams, mussels, whelks, oysters, l not cater for the person if you are unable to do so safely
snails and squid. l train serving staff in relevant food allergy issues
l avoid the indiscriminate use of nuts, for example
Regulations around food labelling and information for
powdered nuts as a garnish, unless this is an essential
customers in relation to the major allergens state that these
part of the recipe
should be highlighted on food labels, within the ingredients
l ensure that ingredients of dishes are reflected in their
list, or on information available for customers in a restaurant
name, for example ‘nut and carrot salad’.
setting.
Food producers and businesses can choose which method The five Cs
they will use to emphasise these 14 allergens on their These are some of the safeguards that can be set in place
product labels, or how to indicate their use on menus. in kitchens when providing dishes to meet specific dietary
For example, this could be done by listing them in bold, requirements:
contrasting colours or underlining. Some may also use an l Content: read the ingredients lists for potential
allergy advice statement on their products to explain this, allergens; for example, malt vinegar contains barley and
for example: ‘Allergy Advice: for allergens including cereals therefore should not be in dishes for coeliac (gluten-
containing gluten, see ingredients in bold.’ For restaurants free) diets.
this advice statement could be: ‘Allergy Advice: please l Contact: even small traces of ingredients can cause an
inform staff, who can provide a full list of allergens in our issue; wash hands after handling nuts or wear gloves.
dishes.’ Segregate foods containing major allergens from other
foods. If possible, keep certain preparation areas nut-
Anaphylaxis free.
l Contamination: assess work practices to avoid cross-
This is the closing of the throat area in reaction to
something eaten or ingested. It can cause swelling of the contamination of products. For example, if making
face and mouth area and can affect breathing. Those who dairy-free ice cream make it first and then store it
suffer normally carry an EpiPen with them at all times – it separately; avoid frying with oils that have been used to
contains adrenaline, which relaxes the muscles of the lungs cook other foods such as fish or nut cutlets.
l Cleaning: ensure that equipment is cleaned correctly;
and stimulates the heart, which can be injected should an
anaphylactic reaction begin. Anaphylaxis may restrict the even better, use separate equipment. Soap and hot
lifestyle of those who suffer from it – they may be more water followed by thorough rinsing have been shown
reluctant to eat out or travel due to concerns about the to be effective in removing allergen traces.
l Communication: this should be into and out of the
potential risk.
kitchen to ensure customers have sufficient confidence
in the organisation to meet their requirements. Service
Minimising the risk of allergic staff should be able to pass information to customers
reactions and preventing about the contents of each dish, as well as explain to
the kitchen staff the needs of each customer, ensuring
contamination that it is clear and recorded to enable it to be checked
Food preparation staff need to be particularly careful and confirmed as each dish is served.
to avoid cross-contamination; even very small traces of
allergenic foods can trigger reactions for some people. As There could also be a sixth C: common sense. If you are not
a caterer you can: clear about the ingredients or dishes being offered, then
say so, and find out.

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Test yourself
1 The components of food are divided into six main nutrient groups. What are
they?
2 How could you increase dietary fibre in recipes with which you are familiar?
3 Which cooking methods do not require the addition of fat?
4 It is thought that there is too much fat in the average UK diet. Give three
reasons why too much fat should be avoided.
5 List three groups that may request specific foods for dietary requirements.
6 Which food item should not be included in a dish for diabetic customers?
7 How many portions of fruit/vegetables is it recommended that we eat each
day? Suggest what these could be; include portion sizes.
8 What is meant by ‘an allergy’?
9 Which religious/cultural diets forbid the eating of pork and pork products?
10 Suggest three ways that chefs could make the food that they cook healthier.

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18 Cold presentation
This chapter is relevant to the following units:
➜ Prepare and present food for cold presentation.
➜ Produce cold starters and salads.

Recipes included in this chapter 30 Radishes (radis) 592


31 Cucumber 592
No. Recipe Page
32 Tomatoes (tomates) 593
Vinaigrettes, dressings and cold sauces
33 Tomato salad (salade de tomates) 593
1 Vinaigrette 576
34 Tomato and cucumber salad (salade de 594
2 Balsamic vinegar and olive oil dressing 576
tomates et concombres)
3 Tomato vinaigrette 577
35 Beetroot salad (salade de betterave) 594
4 Mayonnaise 577
36 Coleslaw 595
5 Andalusian sauce 578
37 French bean salad (salade de haricots verts) 595
6 Green or herb sauce 579
38 Potato salad 596
7 Tartare sauce 579
39 Waldorf salad 596
8 Remoulade sauce 580
40 Vegetable salad/Russian salad 597
9 Thousand Island dressing 580
41 Greek-style mushrooms 598
10 Mint sauce 581
42 Haricot bean salad 598
11 Shellfish cocktail sauce 581
43 Three bean salad 599
Flavoured oils
44 Lentil and goats’ cheese salad 599
12 Herb oil 582
45 Rice salad (salade de riz) 600
13 Basil oil 583
46 Brown rice salad 600
14 Lemon oil 583
47 Couscous salad with roasted vegetables and 601
15 Mint oil 584 mixed herbs
16 Vanilla oil 584 48 Caesar salad 602
17 Walnut oil 585 49 Niçoise salad 603
Chutneys, pickles and relishes 50 Avocado and bacon salad 603
18 Tomato chutney 585 Cold fish and shellfish dishes
19 Beetroot relish 586 51 Smoked salmon 604
20 Date and tamarind relish 586 52 Oysters 604
21 Pickled red cabbage 587 53 Dressed crab 605
22 Mixed pickle 587 54 Cold salmon 606
23 Pesto 588 55 Fish salad (salade de poisson) 607
24 Tapenade 588 56 Sea bass ceviche 608
25 Celeriac remoulade 589 57 Soused herring or mackerel 608
Salads 58 Crab, lobster, shrimp or prawn cocktail 609
(cocktail de crabe, homard, crevettes,
26 Salad leaves 590 crevettes roses)
27 Mixed salad (salade panachée) 590 59 Potted shrimps 610
28 Green salad (salade verte) 591 60 Fruits de mer 611
29 French salad (salade française) 591

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Cold meat dishes and pies 65 Terrine of bacon, spinach and mushrooms 616
61 Chicken salad 612 Bread products
62 Raised pork pie 613 66 Sandwiches 617
63 Veal and ham pie 614 67 Wraps 618
Pâtés and terrines 68 Bagels 618
64 Liver pâté (pâté de foie) 615 69 Canapés 619

Cold presentation l marinating: a richly spiced pickling liquid used to


give flavour and to assist in tenderising meats such as
‘Cold presentation’ means the preparation and presentation venison. Simple marinades (for example, olive oil with
of raw and/or cooked foods into a wide variety of cold items. herbs or soy sauce with herbs and/or spices) can be
Preparing and presenting cold dishes covers areas including used with cuts of fish, chicken or meat.
salads, bread products, pies, pâtés, cured meats and fish. l combining ingredients: be aware of the texture and
Cold food is popular in every kind of food service operation flavour of many raw foods that can be mixed together
for at least three good reasons: or combined with cooked foods. Understand what
1 Visual appeal: when the food is attractively displayed, combination of foods – for example, salads – is best
carefully arranged and neatly garnished, the customers suited to be served with other foods, such as cold meat
can have their appetites stimulated by seeing exactly or poultry.
what is being offered. l dressing: this can either mean an accompanying salad
2 Efficiency: cold food can be prepared in advance, dressing, such as vinaigrette, or the arrangement of
allowing a large number of people to be served in a food for presentation on plates, dishes or buffets
short space of time. Self-service is also economic in l garnishing: the final addition to the dish, such as lettuce,
terms of staffing. quarters of tomato and sliced cucumber added to egg
3 Adaptability: if cold food is being served from a buffet, mayonnaise.
the range of foods can be simple or complex and wide-
ranging, depending on the type of operation. Equipment
Cold foods can either be pre-plated or served from large Bowls, tongs, whisks, spoons, and so on, as well as food
dishes and bowls. In both cases presentation is important: processors, mixing machines and blenders are used with
the food should appear fresh, neatly arranged and not over- cold preparations. The correct use of specialist equipment
garnished. and tools enables the cold preparation chef to ensure
consistency in dishes – for example, when grating or slicing
Quality points vegetables for salads and so on.

Cold food must look clean and fresh. Its presentation


Health and safety
should be appealing to the eye. Seasoning and flavour can
be adjusted with accompaniments that enhance the eating Where possible, use disposable plastic gloves when
handling food.
experience – for example, lemon and Tabasco sauce may
be offered with oysters.
For quality points for specific ingredients, refer to the Preparation for cold work
sections below. Well-planned organisation is essential to ensure adequate pre-
preparation (mise-en-place), so that foods are assembled with
a good work flow and are ready on time. Before, during and
Preparation methods after assembling, and before final garnishing, foods must be
Techniques used in cold preparation include: kept in a cool place, cold room or refrigerator so as to minimise
l peeling, slicing, chopping and cutting the risk of food contamination. Garnishing and final decoration
l carving or slicing to define portion or serving size should take place as close to the serving time as possible.
l seasoning: the light addition of salt, pepper and
possibly other flavouring agents Develop simple artistic skills that require the minimum of
time for preparation and assembly. Provide an attractive
presentation of food at all times.

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Health and safety Salads


Whenever possible, the food on display to the public
Salads may be served as an accompaniment to hot and
should be kept under refrigeration and the temperature cold foods and as dishes in their own right. They can be
should be checked to ensure that it is being maintained served for lunch, tea, high tea, dinner, supper and snack
at a safe level. meals. Salads may be divided in two types:
Where customers are viewing closely, the food should 1 simple, using one ingredient
ideally be displayed behind a sneeze screen. 2 mixed, or composite, using more than one ingredient.
Some salads may form part of a composite hors d’oeuvre.
Storage Accompaniments include dressings and cold sauces.
Keep unprepared and prepared food under refrigeration at Salad items should be fresh, cleaned correctly and, where
a temperature not exceeding 4–5 °C. Refrigeration will not cut, these should be of an even size and shape to enhance
kill the bacteria that are present in the foods, but it does the presentation.
help to prevent their growth.
Dishes prepared in advance should be covered with film
and refrigerated at 1–3 °C to prevent them drying out.

Time and temperature


Because of the requirements of food safety, cold foods are
often served straight from the refrigerator. This is an error
because, at refrigerator temperature, food flavours are not
at their best. Individual portions should be removed from
refrigeration and allowed to stand at room temperature for
5–10 minutes before serving.

Salads may be served as an accompaniment to hot and cold


Food products for cold foods and as dishes in their own right
presentation
Terrines and pâtés
Hors d’oeuvres A slice of terrine served with a suitable garnish (for example,
The choice of a wide variety of foods, combination of foods a small tossed salad dressed with vinaigrette and chopped
and recipes is available for preparation and service as hors fresh herbs) makes an ideal first course, or a small portion
d’oeuvres and salads. Hors d’oeuvres can be divided into can form part of an hors d’oeuvres selection.
three categories:
1 single cold food items (smoked salmon, pâté, melon, etc.) Pre-prepared pâtés or terrines are available in a wide variety
2 a selection of well-seasoned cold dishes of types and flavourings, which include liver (chicken, duck,
3 well-seasoned hot dishes. and so on), poultry and game. Pâtés are usually cooked
enclosed in a thin layer of bacon fat, or they may be
Hors d’oeuvres may be served for lunch, dinner or supper, enclosed in hot water pastry within a special mould.
and the wide choice, colour appeal and versatility of the
dishes make many items and combinations of items suitable Pâtés and terrines must be kept under refrigeration
for snacks and salads at any time of day. at all times and should never be allowed to stand in a
warm kitchen or dining room because they are easily
Single-food hors d’oeuvres contaminated by food-poisoning bacteria.
Serve single-food hors d’oeuvres with bread or toast, butter Fish and vegetable pâtés and terrines are also available.
separately, offered as a single portion or piece. Single-food When serving meat, poultry or game pâtés, a simple garnish
hors d’oeuvres include meat, poultry, fish and vegetables, of a fan of gherkin and a little salad is sufficient.
with an appropriate garnish or sauce.
The use of plastic gloves and tools such as palate knives and
Examples include smoked salmon, melon, avocado, potted slices will reduce the risk of contamination when cold foods
meats or fish, oysters, pâtés and terrines. are being handled.

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Cooked and cured meats Serving whole fish would be normal on a buffet table, as in
whole salmon with a cucumber salad and dill mayonnaise.
The typical meats or poultry for cold presentation are roast
Whole shellfish might also be used, such as a dressed crab,
beef, boiled or honey roast ham or gammon, roast chicken
or whole prawns as part of a cocktail.
or turkey, and boiled ox tongue. These can be cooked and
cooled, or leftover joints from previous hot meals can be used. Soused fish or ceviche can be served as an individual cold
Cold meats can also be bought in ready cooked or ready for dish with a vegetable garnish and sauce.
service from suppliers. These include cured meats and salamis
that can then be offered with a garnish and sauce. Pies
The various ways to present and serve cold meats are: Pies, such as game and pork pies, and flans, can be made
l sliced from whole joints on the bone in front of the in the kitchen or purchased pre-prepared ready for slicing
customer (in which case all bones that may hinder and serving, which helps with ensuring consistency. They
carving must be removed first) can be served as part of a cold buffet or as single portions.
l sliced from boned joints, which in some cases may be
rolled and stuffed (also in front of the customer)
l pre-sliced in the kitchen, in which case the meat
Bread and pastry
or poultry should be cut as close to service time as Breads are used for sandwiches, canapés or as an
possible, otherwise it will start to dry and curl up; pre- accompaniment to many dishes to add texture. Consider
sliced meats or poultry can be neatly cut, dressed with types of bread that would add texture and flavour to
the slices overlapping each other, placed on to large the dish being served, for example toasted brioche with
dishes or individual plates, covered with cling film and chicken parfait, wholemeal to accompany fish, and perhaps
kept under refrigeration; when large numbers of plated a focaccia crouton to accompany a tomato and basil salad.
meals have to be prepared, plate rings can be used and
the plates stacked in sensible-sized numbers. Cold sauces and dressings
When roast chickens are required for serving cold, ideally Salad dressings
they should be cooked 1–2 hours before service, left to cool These dressings may be varied by the addition of other
(preferably in a blast chiller) and then carved as required. In ingredients. Salads should be lightly dressed or the dressing
this way, the meat remains moist and succulent. Chickens offered separately to give the customer the choice.
can then be cut into eight pieces and the excess bones
removed before serving.
Chutneys and relishes
Chutneys are made from a variety of ingredients, usually
Ham fruit, preserved in sugar and acid after careful cooking. They
Ham should not be confused with gammon. A gammon is are flavoured with a range of spices.
the hind leg of a baconer weight pig and is cut from a side
of bacon. A ham is the hind leg of a porker pig and is cut Chutneys may be served as an accompaniment to terrines
round from the side of pork with the aitch bone, and usually and pâtés, salads, cold meats, poultry, game and cheese.
cured by dry salting. Ham is boiled and can be served hot They may also accompany a traditional curry (for example,
or cold. Certain imported hams (Parma ham, Bayonne mango chutney).
and Ardennes) are sliced thinly and eaten raw, generally Relishes are similar to chutneys except they are generally
as an hors d’oeuvre. In order to carve the ham efficiently smoother and do not always contain as much sugar.
it is necessary to remove the aitch bone after cooking.
Traditional English hams include York and Bradenham. Fruits and vegetables for use in relishes and chutneys must
be unblemished and well washed. Good-quality vinegars
with 5 per cent acetic acid must be used.
Fish and shellfish
Whole fish or fillets can be prepared and served as cold
dishes. These would be poached, cured or pickled, and
could be purchased ready to serve or prepared in the
kitchen.

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Cold presentation 18

Pickles 500 g of vegetables); place the prepared vegetables in a


Vegetables to be pickled are usually brined (unless they deep bowl, cover with the brine and leave overnight. Root
are to be used in a chutney or similar mixture, then it is not vegetables such as artichokes, and sometimes beetroot,
necessary). Brining removes the surplus water that would are cooked in half-strength brine until tender. After brining,
otherwise dilute the vinegar and make it too weak to act as rinse and drain the vegetables.
a preservative. Spiced vinegar is used to cover most simple pickles; the
Dry brining is used for watery vegetables such as cucumbers, vinegar used for this – and for all pickles – must be of high
marrows and tomatoes. Place the prepared vegetables in a quality, with an acetic acid content of not less than 6 per
deep bowl, sprinkle salt between the layers, allowing about cent. Brewed malt vinegar is most commonly used but, for
half a teaspoon of salt per 500 g. Cover and leave overnight. onions, cauliflower and other light-coloured vegetables,
white vinegar may be used.
Wet brining is used for vegetables such as cauliflower and
onions. Allow 50 g salt to 500 ml water (sufficient for about

Test yourself
1 What is considered to be a safe temperature for storing sandwiches and
canapés if they are not for immediate consumption?
2 Why is it advisable that foods taken from the fridge are allowed to stand at
room temperature for five to ten minutes before being served?
3 What precautions should be taken into account when serving pre-prepared
terrines and pâtés?
4 List three types of shellfish that may be served cold.
5 Presentation is considered to be an important indicator of quality, especially
for cold buffet service. Name three other quality points you should look for.
6 When making mayonnaise and vinaigrette, which oils could be used to give a
low-cholesterol product?
7 Describe the preparation of a crab cocktail.
8 When preparing cooked and cured food, why is the relationship of time and
temperature important?
9 Describe how a joint of roast beef can be presented.
10 Suggest how the fat content of cold items could be reduced.

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Vinaigrettes, dressings and cold sauces

1 Vinaigrette

Ingredient 4–6 portions


Olive oil, according to taste 3–6 tbsp
French mustard 1 tsp
Vinegar 1 tbsp
Salt and pepper, to taste

Variation
Variations to vinaigrette include:
l English mustard in place of French mustard
l chopped herbs (chives, parsley, tarragon, etc.)
l chopped hard-boiled egg
l other good-quality oils, for example sesame seed or
walnut
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre l different flavoured vinegars or lemon juice.
1,740 kJ 415 kcal 45.5 g 6.3 g 0.5 g 0.1 g 0.6 g 0.0 g

Using 3 tbsp oil for 4–6 portions. Using 6 tbsp oil for 4–6 portions
this recipe provides: 3439 kJ/415 kcal energy, 90.5 g fat, 12.6 g
saturated fat, 0.5 g carbohydrates, 0.1 g sugar, 0.6 g protein and
0.0 g fibre. Video: making
Combine all the ingredients together. vinaigrette
http://bit.ly/
The number of portions yielded will depend on how the 1DWIKjw
vinaigrette is used.

2 Balsamic vinegar and olive oil dressing

Ingredient 8 portions
Water 62 ml
Olive oil 250 ml
Balsamic vinegar 62 ml
Sherry vinegar 2 tbsp
Caster sugar ½ tsp
Seasoning

Professional tip
The amount of balsamic vinegar needed will depend on
its quality, age, etc. Add more or less as required.
This dressing works well because it is not an emulsion.
1 Whisk all ingredients together and correct the The oil and vinegar provide a stark contrast and can be
seasoning. stirred just before serving.

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3 Tomato vinaigrette

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Tomatoes 200 g 500 g
Caster sugar ½ tsp 1¼ tbsp
White wine vinegar 1 tbsp 2½ tsp
Extra virgin olive oil 3 tbsp 8 tbsp
Seasoning

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
382 kJ 93 kcal 9.6 g 1.4 g 1.4 g 1.3 g 0.2 g 0.3 g 0.3 g

1 Blanch and deseed the tomatoes; purée in a


food processor.
2 Add the sugar, vinegar, olive oil and seasoning;
whisk well to emulsify.
3 The vinaigrette should be smooth.

4 Mayonnaise

Ingredient 8 portions
Egg yolks, very fresh or pasteurised 3
Vinegar or lemon juice 2 tsp
Small pinch of salt

English or continental mustard ½ tsp


A mild-flavoured oil such as corn oil or the lightest olive oil 250 ml
Water, boiling 1 tsp

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1248 kJ 303 kcal 33.0 g 5.1 g 0.1 g 0.1 g 1.1 g 0.0 g 0.1 g

Faults
Mayonnaise may separate, turn or curdle for several
reasons:
l you have added the oil too quickly
l the oil is too cold
l you have not whisked enough
l the egg yolks were stale and weak.

To reconstitute (bring it back together):


Health and safety l Take a clean basin, pour 1 teaspoon of boiling water
Because of the risk of salmonella food poisoning, it and gradually but vigorously whisk in the curdled
is strongly recommended that pasteurised egg yolks sauce a little at a time.
are used. l Alternatively, in a clean basin, whisk a fresh egg yolk
with ½ teaspoon of cold water then gradually whisk
in the curdled sauce.

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Place yolks, vinegar, salt and mustard in the Whisk until thoroughly mixed Continue to whisk vigorously and start to add
bowl of a food mixer the oil – this needs to be done slowly

Keep whisking until all the oil has been added Whisk in the boiling water; taste and correct
seasoning if necessary

Variation Professional tip


Add: If the mayonnaise becomes too thick while you are
l fresh chopped herbs making it, whisk in a little of water or vinegar.
l garlic juice – peel a clove garlic and press it using a
garlic press
l thick tomato juice.

5 Andalusian sauce

Ingredient Makes 250 ml


Mayonnaise 250 ml
Tomato juice or ketchup 2 tbsp
Red pepper, cut into julienne 1 tbsp

1 Combine all the ingredients.


May be served with cold salads.

Professional tip
For Andalusian sauce, Thousand Island dressing,
green sauce and other similar recipes, use a blender
to achieve the desired texture and flavour, but do not
purée completely.

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6 Green or herb sauce

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Spinach, tarragon, chervil, chives, 50 g 125 g
watercress
Mayonnaise 150 ml 375 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1082 kJ 263 kcal 28.0 g 4.3 g 0.9 g 0.6 g 0.8 g 0.2 g 0.2 g

1 Pick, wash, blanch and refresh the green leaves.


2 Squeeze dry.
3 Pass through a very fine sieve.
4 Mix with the mayonnaise.
May be served with cold salmon or trout.

7 Tartare sauce

Ingredient 8 portions
Mayonnaise 250 ml
Capers, chopped 25 g
Gherkins, chopped 50 g
Sprig of parsley, chopped

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
911 kJ 221 kcal 24.0 g 3.6 g 0.8 g 0.6 g 0.6 g 0.1 g 0.2 g

1 Combine all the ingredients.


This sauce is usually served with deep-fried fish.

Professional tip
Finely chop the gherkins and capers and use a blender
to give the desired texture and consistency, but do not
purée completely.

Healthy eating tips


Proportionally reduce the fat by adding some low-fat
yoghurt instead of some of the mayonnaise.

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8 Remoulade sauce

1 Prepare as for tartare sauce (recipe 7), adding


1 teaspoon of anchovy essence and mixing
thoroughly. Makes 8 portions.
This sauce may be served with fried fish. It can also
be mixed with a fine julienne of celeriac to make an
accompaniment to cold meats, terrines, etc.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
907 kJ 220 kcal 24.0 g 3.6 g 0.8 g 0.6 g 0.7 g 0.1 g 0.3 g

9 Thousand Island dressing

Ingredient 8 portions
Mayonnaise 250 ml
Tomato ketchup 30 ml
White wine vinegar 1 tbsp
Caster sugar 1 tsp
Onion, finely chopped 15 g
Clove of garlic, finely chopped 1
Tabasco sauce 2 drops
Worcester sauce ½ tsp
Gherkins, finely chopped 2

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
928 kJ 225 kcal 24.0 g 3.6 g 2.6 g 2.3 g 0.5 g 0.1 g 0.3 g

1 Mix all ingredients together.


2 Use as a dressing for fish cocktails and salads.
Thousand Island dressing is an example of a dressing
which has become a standard condiment.

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10 Mint sauce

Ingredient 8 portions
Mint 2–3 tbsp
Caster sugar 1 tsp
Vinegar 125 ml

1 Chop the washed, picked mint and mix with the


sugar.
2 Place in a china basin and add the vinegar.
3 If the vinegar is too sharp, dilute it with a little water.
Serve with roast lamb.

Professional tip
A less acid sauce can be produced by dissolving the
sugar in 125 ml boiling water and, when cold, adding the
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium chopped mint and 1–2 tablespoon vinegar to taste.
26 kJ 6 kcal 0.0 g 0.0 g 0.7 g 0.6 g 0.1 g 0.0 g 0.0 g

11 Shellfish cocktail sauce

Method 1
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
Egg yolk, pasteurised 1 2½
Vinegar 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Salt, pepper, mustard
Olive oil or sunflower oil 5 tbsp 12½ tbsp
Tomato juice or ketchup to taste
Worcester sauce (optional) 2–3 drops 5–8 drops

1 Make the mayonnaise with the egg yolk, vinegar,


seasonings and oil.
2 Combine with the tomato juice or ketchup to taste
and Worcester sauce (if using).

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


889 kJ 216 kcal 22.7 g 14.2 g 1.9 g 1.9 g 1.2 g 0.1 g

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Method 2 Healthy eating tips


l Keep added salt to a minimum.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions l Extend the high-fat mayonnaise with low-fat yoghurt
to proportionally reduce the fat content.
Lightly whipped cream or 5 tbsp 12½ tbsp
unsweetened non-dairy cream
Tomato juice or ketchup 3 tbsp 8 tbsp Note
Salt, pepper
Fresh or tinned tomato juice, or diluted tomato ketchup,
Lemon juice a few drops a few drops may be used for both of these methods, but the use of
tinned tomato purée gives an unpleasant flavour.
1 Mix all the ingredients together.

Flavoured oils

12 Herb oil

Ingredient Makes 250 ml


Picked flat leaf parsley 25 g
Chives 10 g
Picked basil leaves 10 g
Picked spinach 100 g
Corn oil 250 ml

1 Blanch all the herbs and spinach for 1½ minutes.


2 Drain well, place with the oil in a liquidiser and blitz
for 2½ minutes. Pass and decant when rested.
Uses include salads, salmon and other fish dishes.

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13 Basil oil

Ingredient Makes 200 ml


Fresh basil 25 g
Oil 200 ml
Salt, to taste
Mill pepper

1 Blanch and refresh the basil; purée with the oil.


2 Allow to settle overnight and decant.
3 Store in bottles with a sprig of blanched basil.

Variation
Basil extract can be used in place of fresh basil; 50 g of
grated Parmesan or Gorgonzola cheese may also be
added to the basil oil.

14 Lemon oil

Ingredient Makes 250 ml


Lemons, rind (with no pith – the whitish layer between 3
skin and fruit)
Lemongrass stick, cut lengthways and chopped into 1
2 cm strips
Grapeseed oil 250 ml
Olive oil 2 tbsp

1 Place all the ingredients into a food processor and


pulse the mix until the lemon peel and lemongrass
are approximately 3 mm thick.
2 Allow to stand for 2 days. Decant and store in the
fridge until ready for use (or freeze for longer if
you wish).

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15 Mint oil

Ingredient Makes 150 ml


Mint 100 g
Oil 150 ml
Salt 3 tbsp

1 Blanch the mint for 30 seconds.


2 Refresh and squeeze the water out.
3 Place in a blender and slowly add the oil.
4 Allow to settle overnight and decant into bottles.
Uses include lamb dishes, salads and fish dishes.

16 Vanilla oil

Ingredient Makes 200 ml


Vegetable oil 200 ml
Vanilla pods, whole 6
Vanilla extract 50 ml

1 Warm the oil to around 60 °C; add the vanilla in its


various forms and infuse, scraping all the seeds
into the oil.
2 Store in a plastic bottle.
Uses include salads, salmon and other fish dishes.

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17 Walnut oil

Ingredient Makes 500 ml


Olive or walnut oil 500 ml
Walnuts, finely crushed 75 g
Parmesan cheese 75 g
Salt, to taste 50 ml
Mill pepper

1 Mix all the ingredients together and bottle until


required.

Chutneys, pickles and relishes

18 Tomato chutney

Ingredient Makes 1 litre


Tomatoes, peeled 1.5 kg
Onions, finely chopped 450 g
Brown sugar 300 g
Malt vinegar 375 ml
Mustard powder 1½ tsp
Cayenne pepper ½ tsp
Coarse salt 2 tsp
Mild curry powder 1 tbsp

1 Peel and coarsely chop the tomatoes, then 2 Stir over heat without boiling until the sugar
combine with the remaining ingredients in a large dissolves. Simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally
heavy-duty saucepan. until the mixture thickens (about 1½ hours).
3 Place in hot, sterilised jars. Seal while hot.
Serve with cheese, cold meats or terrines.

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19 Beetroot relish

Ingredient Makes 1.75


litres
Beetroots, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 kg
Onions, finely chopped 800 g
Caster sugar 225 g
Coarse salt 1 tbsp
Ground allspice 1 tsp
Malt vinegar 500 ml
Plain flour 1 tbsp

1 Mix the chopped beetroot and onion together, 2 Mix the flour with the remaining vinegar and
add the sugar, salt, allspice and 375 ml of the whisk together well. (Make sure it is smooth and
vinegar to a large saucepan. Bring to the boil and does not contain any lumps.) Add to the beetroot
simmer for 30 minutes. mixture. Stir until it is all well blended and thickens.
3 Place in hot sterilised jars. Seal while still hot.

20 Date and tamarind relish

Ingredient Makes 625 ml


Dried tamarind 75 g
Boiling water 500 ml
Olive oil 2 tsp
Black mustard seeds 2 tsp
Cumin seeds 2 tsp
Fresh dates, stoned and chopped 500 g
Malt vinegar 60 ml

1 Place the dried tamarind into a suitable bowl and seeds, dates, tamarind liquid and vinegar, and
pour over the boiling water; allow to stand for bring to the boil. Simmer for 5 minutes
30 minutes. until almost dry.
2 Strain the liquid, pressing to extract all moisture, 4 Purée in a processor until smooth.
then discard the tamarind. 5 Place the hot relish into hot sterilised jars.
3 Heat the oil in a suitable saucepan. Cook the Seal while hot.
mustard seeds until they pop, then add the cumin

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21 Pickled red cabbage

1 Remove the outer leaves of the cabbage and


shred the rest finely.
2 Place in a deep bowl, sprinkle each layer with dry
salt and leave for 24 hours.
3 Rinse and drain, cover with spiced vinegar
(see recipe 22 for mixed pickle) and leave for a
further 24 hours, mixing occasionally.
Pack and cover.

22 Mixed pickle

Ingredient

Vegetables (cauliflower, cucumber, green tomatoes.


onions, marrow)
For the spiced vinegar
Vinegar 1 litre
Blade mace 5g
Allspice 5g
Cloves 5g
Stick cinnamon 5g
Peppercorns 6
Root ginger (for hot pickle) 5g

1 To make the spiced vinegar, tie the spices in 4 Peel the marrow, remove the seeds and cut into
muslin, place them in a covered pan with the small squares, sprinkle and salt, and let it stand
vinegar and heat slowly to boiling point. for 12 hours.
2 Remove from the heat and stand for 2 hours, then 5 Drain the vegetables, pack them into jars, and
remove the bag. cover with cold spiced vinegar.
3 Prepare the vegetables, with the exception of the 6 Cover the jars and allow the pickle to mature for
marrow, and soak them in brine for 24 hours. at least a month before use.

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23 Pesto

Ingredient Makes 250ml


Fresh basil leaves 100 ml
Pine nuts, lightly toasted 1 tbsp
Garlic, picked and crumbled 2 cloves
Parmesan cheese, grated 40 g
Pecorino cheese, grated 40 g
Olive oil 5 tbsp
Salt and pepper

Variation
Use flat-leaved parsley in place of basil and walnuts in
place of pine nuts.

Note
Pesto is traditionally served with large flat pasta called
1 Place all ingredients into a food processor and Trenetta.
mix to a rough-textured sauce.
Pesto is also used as a cordon in various fish and meat-
2 Transfer to a bowl and leave for at least 1 hour to plated dishes, e.g. grilled fish, medallions of veal.
enable the flavours to develop.

24 Tapenade

4 portions 10 portions
Garlic cloves, crushed/chopped 1 3
Capers 45 g 110 g
Lemon juice 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
Anchovy fillets, chopped 6 15
Black olives, chopped 250 g 625 g
Parsley, chopped 1 tsp 2 tsp
Salt and pepper Pinch Pinch
Virgin olive oil 4 tbsp 10 tbsp
Roast cumin and chopped red chilli,
to garnish

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
773 kJ 188 kcal 19.8 g 2.9 g 0.3 g 0.1 g 2.0 g 2.7 g 2.0 g

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1 Mix all the ingredients together, adding the olive


Note
oil to make a paste.
2 For a smoother texture, place garlic, lemon juice, Tapenade is a Provençale dish consisting of puréed or
finely chopped black olives, capers, anchovies and olive
capers and anchovies into a food processor and
oil. It may also contain garlic, herbs, tuna, lemon juice
process until a smooth texture. Add the olives and or brandy. Its name comes from the Provençale word
parsley, and sufficient oil to form a smooth paste. for capers: tapeno. It is popular in the South of France,
3 Season, if required. where it is generally eaten as an hors d’oeuvre, spread
on toast.
4 Garnish with a sprinkle of roast cumin and
chopped red chilli.
5 Serve chilled.

25 Celeriac remoulade

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Celeriac 200 g 500 g
Lemon ½ 1¼
English or continental mustard 1 level tsp 2½ level tsp
Salt, pepper
Mayonnaise, natural yoghurt or 125 ml 310 ml
fromage frais

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


938 kJ 228 kcal 24.0 g 3.9 g 2.0 g 1.6 g 1.1 g 1.9 g

Note
Used as an accompaniment to pâtés or terrines, either
by itself or mixed with remoulade sauce (recipe 7).
1 Wash and peel the celeriac. Cut into fine julienne.
2 Combine with the remoulade juice (lemon,
Healthy eating tips
mustard, seasoning) and the remainder of the Use natural yoghurt rather than mayonnaise/cream.
ingredients.

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Salads

26 Salad leaves
As these are eaten raw they may contain live food- Chicory (endive belge)
poisoning bacteria; they must be thoroughly washed
to remove any soil. 1 Trim off the root end.
2 Cut into 1 cm lengths; wash well and drain.
Lettuce (laitue) and iceberg lettuce
1 Trim off the root and remove the outside leaves.
Curled chicory (endive frisée)
Thoroughly wash and trim off the stalk. Drain well.
2 Wash thoroughly and drain well.
3 The outer leaves can be pulled off and the hearts
cut into quarters. Watercress (cresson)
Watercress, as the name suggests, is grown in water
Cos lettuce (laitue romaine) and, as there is always the danger that the water may
have been polluted, it must be washed thoroughly in
1 Trim off the root end and remove the outside leaves. clean water.
2 Wash thoroughly and drain well. Trim off the stalk ends, discard any discoloured leaves,
3 Cut into quarters. wash thoroughly and drain.

Rocket Mustard and cress


This is a small-leafed, sharp, peppery-tasting salad. 1 Trim off the stalk ends of the cress.
Trim, wash well and drain. 2 Wash well and lift out of the water so as to leave
the seed cases behind.
3 Drain well.

27 Mixed salad (salade panachée)

A typical mixed salad would consist of lettuce, tomato,


cucumber, watercress, radishes, and so on – almost
any kind of salad vegetable can be used.
Neatly arrange in a salad bowl; offer a vinaigrette
separately.

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28 Green salad (salade verte)

Any of the green salads – lettuce, cos lettuce, lamb’s


lettuce (also known as corn salad or mâche), curled
chicory – or any combination of green salads may be
used, and a few leaves of radicchio.
Neatly arrange in a salad bowl; serve with a vinaigrette
separately.

29 French salad (salade française)

The usual ingredients are lettuce, tomato and


cucumber, but these may be varied with other salad
vegetables, and in some cases with quarters of egg.
A vinaigrette made with French mustard (French
dressing) should be offered.

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30 Radishes (radis)
Allow 3–5 radishes per portion.
1 Trim the green stems to about 2 cm long. Cut off
the root end.
2 Wash well, drain. Cut into thin slices or serve
whole. Dress neatly.

31 Cucumber

1 Peel the cucumber if desired.


2 Cut into thin slices and arrange neatly.
3 Lightly dress with vinaigrette or serve separately.
Alternatively, cucumber may be sliced into 0.5 cm dice
and bound with mayonnaise or yoghurt.

Note
This should not be served as a single hors d’oeuvre or
main course.

Professional tip
To remove indigestible juices from the cucumber, slice
and lightly sprinkle with salt. Allow the salt to draw out
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions the water for approximately 1 hour, wash well under
Cucumber ½ 1¼ cold water and drain. This will make the cucumber limp.
Vinaigrette 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
Healthy eating tips
80 kJ 20 kcal 1.7 g 0.2 g 0.7 g 0.7 g 0.3 g 0.3 g 0.0 g l Vegetable-based salads are a healthy way to start
a meal.
l Add the minimum amount of salt.

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32 Tomatoes (tomates)

Allow 1 tomato per portion.


1 Wash the tomatoes. Remove the eyes and slice
thinly or cut into segments.
2 Dress neatly.

33 Tomato salad (salade de tomates)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Tomatoes 200 g 500g
Lettuce ¼ ½
Vinaigrette 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Onion or chives (optional), chopped 10 g 25 g
Parsley or mixed fresh herbs,
chopped

1 Peel the tomatoes if required. Slice thinly and


arrange neatly on the lettuce leaves.
2 Sprinkle with the vinaigrette, onion (blanched if
required) and parsley.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


Variation
99 kJ 24 kcal 1.7 g 0.3 g 1.7 g 1.7 g 0.9 g 1.0 g
Alternate slices of tomato and mozzarella with basic
dressing.

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34 Tomato and cucumber salad (salade de tomates


et concombres)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Tomatoes 2 5
Cucumber ½ 1¼
Vinaigrette 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Parsley or mixed fresh herbs, chopped

1 Alternate slices of tomato and cucumber.


2 Sprinkle with the vinaigrette and parsley.

Professional tip
Blanch the tomatoes so that you can remove the skins,
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
which are hard to digest.
112 kJ 27 kcal 2.0 g 0.3 g 1.9 g 1.8 g 0.5 g 0.6 g

35 Beetroot salad (salade de betterave)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Cooked beetroot, neatly cut or sliced 200 g 500 g
Onion or chives (optional), chopped 10 g 25 g
Vinaigrette 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Parsley, chopped

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


134 kJ 32 kcal 2.0 g 0.3 g 3.2 g 3.1 g 0.7 g 0.9 g

Professional tip
l To cook the beetroot, blanch and then simmer it.
1 Combine all the ingredients, except the parsley, l Wear gloves when handling beetroot to avoid staining
blanching the onion if required. the skin.
2 Dress neatly and sprinkle with the chopped
parsley.
Variation
Add 60–120 ml mayonnaise or natural yoghurt in place of
vinaigrette (150–200 ml for 10 portions).

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36 Coleslaw

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


White or Chinese cabbage 200 g 500 g
Carrot 50 g 125 g
Onion (optional) 25 g 60 g
Mayonnaise, natural yoghurt or 125 ml 300 ml
fromage frais

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


629 kJ 150 kcal 14.8 g 2.2 g 2.9 g 2.9 g 1.5 g 1.8 g

Using mayonnaise.

1 Trim off the outside leaves of the cabbage.


Healthy eating tips
2 Cut into quarters. Remove the centre stalk. Replace some or all of the mayonnaise with natural
3 Wash the cabbage, shred finely and drain well. yoghurt and/or fromage frais.

4 Mix with a fine julienne of raw carrot and


shredded raw onion. To lessen the harshness of Professional tip
raw onion, blanch and refresh. Cut the cabbage into fine julienne to give the coleslaw a
5 Bind with mayonnaise, natural yoghurt or good, even texture.
vinaigrette.

37 French bean salad (salade de haricots verts)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


French beans, cooked 200 g 500 g
Vinaigrette 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Salt, pepper

Combine all the ingredients.

Professional tip
Cook the beans al dente, so that the salad will have a
crunchy texture.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


125 kJ 30 kcal 1.9 g 0.3 g 2.5 g 1.2 g 0.9 g 2.0 g Healthy eating tips
Add salt sparingly.

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38 Potato salad

1 Cut the potatoes into ½–1 cm dice; sprinkle with


vinaigrette.
2 Mix with the onion or chive, add the mayonnaise
and correct the seasoning. (The onion may be
blanched to reduce its harshness.)
3 Dress neatly and sprinkle with chopped parsley
or herbs.
This is not usually served as a single hors d’oeuvre or
main course.

Professional tip
Mixing the potato, onion and mayonnaise gives a good
flavour and texture, but be careful not to mix them too
much or the potatoes will break up.

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Potatoes, cooked 200 g 500 g
Variation
l Potato salad can also be made by dicing raw peeled
Vinaigrette 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp or unpeeled potato, cooking them – preferably
Onion or chive (optional), chopped 10 g 25 g by steaming (to retain shape) – and mixing with
vinaigrette while warm.
Mayonnaise or natural yoghurt 125 ml 300 ml
l Try adding two chopped hard-boiled eggs or 100 g
Salt, pepper of peeled dessert apple mixed with lemon juice, or a
Parsley or mixed fresh herbs, small bunch of picked watercress leaves.
chopped l Potatoes may be cooked with mint and allowed to
cool with the mint.
l Cooked small new potatoes can be tossed in
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
503 kJ 120 kcal 8.7 g 1.3 g 10.0 g 0.3 g 1.0 g 0.7 g
vinaigrette with chopped fresh herbs (e.g. mint,
parsley, chives).
Using mayonnaise.

39 Waldorf salad

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Celery or celeriac 2 sticks/100 g 5 sticks/250 g
Russet apples 2 5
Walnuts, shelled and peeled 25 g 62 g
Mayonnaise
Lettuce leaves, to serve

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
657 kJ 159 kcal 14.0 g 1.8 g 7.0 g 6.9 g 1.6 g 2.2 g 0.1 g

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1 Dice celery or celeriac and crisp russet apples. When mixing in the mayonnaise, add just enough to
2 Mix with shelled and peeled walnuts and bind give the right texture and flavour.
with mayonnaise.
Healthy eating tips
3 Dress on quarters or leaves of lettuce (may also Try using some yoghurt in place of the mayonnaise,
be served in hollowed-out apples). which will proportionally reduce the fat.

40 Vegetable salad/Russian salad

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Carrots 100 g 250 g
Turnips 50 g 125 g
French beans 50 g 125 g
Peas 50 g 125 g
Vinaigrette 1 tbsp 2–3 tbsp
Mayonnaise or natural yoghurt 125 ml 300 ml
Salt, pepper

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


392 kJ 93 kcal 8.8 g 1.3 g 2.5 g 2.1 g 1.3 g 3.0 g

Using mayonnaise.

1 Peel and wash the carrots and turnips, cut into Do not overcook the vegetables, and drain them well
0.5 cm dice or batons. before adding the dressing – otherwise the salad will
2 Cook separately in salted water, refresh and drain be too wet.
well.
Healthy eating tips
3 Top and tail the beans, and cut into 0.5 cm dice; l Try half mayonnaise and half natural yoghurt.
cook, refresh and drain well. l Season with the minimum amount of salt.
4 Cook the peas, refresh and drain well.
5 Mix all the well-drained vegetables with vinaigrette
and then mayonnaise.
6 Correct the seasoning. Dress neatly.

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41 Greek-style mushrooms

1 Combine all the ingredients except the


mushrooms, to create a Greek-style cooking
liquor.
2 Cook the mushrooms gently in the cooking liquor
for 3 to 4 minutes.
3 Serve cold with the unstrained liquor.

Professional tip
Simmer the vegetables carefully so that they are
correctly cooked and absorb the flavours.

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Variation
Water 250 ml 625 ml
Other vegetables such as artichokes and cauliflower can
Olive oil 60 ml 150 ml also be cooked in this style, using the same liquor.
Lemon, juice of 1 1½ l For artichokes, peel and trim 6 artichokes for 4
Bay leaf ½ 1
portions (or 15 for 10); cut the leaves short and
remove the chokes. Blanch the artichokes in water
Sprig of thyme with a little lemon juice for 10 minutes, refresh, then
Peppercorns 6 15 simmer in the Greek-style liquor for 15–20 minutes.
l For cauliflower, trim and wash one medium
Coriander seeds 6 15
cauliflower for 4 portions (2 for 10); break it into small
Salt sprigs about the size of cherries. Blanch the sprigs for
Small white button mushrooms, 200 g 500 g about 5 minutes, refresh, then simmer in the Greek-
cleaned style liquor for 5–10 minutes. Keep the cauliflower
slightly undercooked and crisp.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
587 kJ 142 kcal 15.2 g 2.2 g 0.4 g 0.3 g 1.0 g 0.6 g

42 Haricot bean salad

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Haricot beans, cooked 200 g 500 g
Vinaigrette 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Parsley, chopped
Onion, chopped and blanched if ¼ ½
necessary
Chives (optional) 15 g 40 g
Salt, pepper

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


278 kJ 66 kcal 2.1 g 0.4 g 9.0 g 0.7 g 3.3 g 3.1 g

Healthy eating tips


l Lightly dress with vinaigrette. 1 Combine all the ingredients.
l Add salt sparingly. This recipe can be used for any type of dried bean.

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43 Three-bean salad

Use 200 g (500 g for 10 portions) of three different dried


beans (for example, red kidney, black-eyed, flageolet).
Proceed as for a haricot bean salad (recipe 42).

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,849 kJ 440 kcal 8.7 g 1.1 g 63.4 g 6.3 g 30.9 g 36.0 g

For 4 portions.

44 Lentil and goats’ cheese salad

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Puy lentils 100 g 250 g
Bay leaf 1 2½
Spring onions, finely chopped 4 10
Red pepper, finely chopped 1 2½ tbsp
Parsley, chopped 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Cherry tomatoes, sliced in half 400 g 1 kg
Rocket leaves 200 g 500 g
Goats’ cheese 100 g 250 g
Dressing

1 Rinse the lentils and place in a saucepan. Add Olive oil 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
the bay leaf and cover with water. Bring to the boil Balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
and simmer for 20–30 minutes until tender. Clear honey 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
2 Drain and then place in a bowl. Add the spring Garlic clove, crushed and chopped 1 2½
onions, red pepper, parsley and cherry tomatoes;
mix well. Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
907 kJ 216 kcal 9.2 g 4.1 g 22.8 g 10.5 g 11.9 g 4.5 g
3 For the dressing, whisk together in a bowl the oil,
vinegar, honey and garlic, and stir into the lentils.
4 Serve on a bed of rocket, with the goats’ cheese Note
sprinkled over. This dish provides a healthy, balanced starter.

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45 Rice salad (salade de riz)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Tomatoes 100 g 250 g
Rice, cooked 100 g 250 g
Peas, cooked 50 g 125 g
Vinaigrette 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Salt, pepper

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


906 kJ 216 kcal 6.9 g 1.1 g 34.6 g 3.3 g 5.9 g 8.3 g

For 4 portions.

1 Skin and deseed the tomatoes; cut into 0.5 cm dice.


2 Mix with the rice and peas.
Healthy eating tips 3 Add the vinaigrette and correct the seasoning.
l This dish is high in starchy carbohydrate and can be
varied with different/additional vegetables.
l Lightly dress with vinaigrette and add salt sparingly.
Professional tip
Cook the rice so that it still has a bite, with the grains
separate, not sticking together; it should not feel starchy
in the mouth.

46 Brown rice salad

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Brown rice 100 g 250 g
Salt
Boiling water 175 g 440 g
Vinaigrette 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Tomatoes 100 g 250 g
Peas, cooked 50 g 125 g
Haricots verts, cooked and finely 25 g 60 g
sliced
Cucumber, finely chopped 5 cm 12 cm
Spring onions, very finely chopped 3 7

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
Red dessert apple, chopped but 1 2½
1,127 kJ 270 kcal 16.3 g 2.3 g 28.1 g 6.9 g 4.2 g 3.5 g 0.3 g
not peeled
Walnuts, finely chopped 25 g 60 g
Mixed peppers, deseeded, cut into 25 g 60 g
fine dice

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1 Place the rice into a saucepan with a sprinkle of 4 While the rice is cooling, blanch the tomatoes,
salt and cover with boiling water. remove the skins and cut into quarters. Remove
2 Bring the water back to the boil; stir once, put a the seeds and cut in 0.5 cm dice.
lid on and simmer very gently for approximately 5 Once the rice is cool, mix in the tomatoes and
35–40 minutes, until all the liquid has been all the other ingredients, adding the remaining
absorbed. vinaigrette. Check the seasoning and keep in a
3 Empty the rice into a salad bowl, fluff it up with cool place until needed.
a fork and pour three-quarters of the vinaigrette
over while it’s still hot. Leave to cool.

47 Couscous salad with roasted vegetables and 


mixed herbs

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Roasted vegetables (selection) 100 g 250 g
Couscous 250 g 625 g
Balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Olive oil 3 tbsp 8 tbsp
Lemon, juice of ¼ ¾
Seasoning
Fresh mint, chopped ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
Fresh coriander, chopped ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
Fresh thyme, chopped ½ tsp 1¼ tsp

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,248 kJ 300 kcal 12.5 g 1.7 g 42.2 g 8.6 g 6.6 g 3.8 g

1 Prepare the roasted vegetables. 8 Serve in a suitable bowl or use individual plates.
2 Place the couscous in a suitable bowl and gently For plated service, arrange the couscous neatly
pour over 300 ml of boiling water (750 ml for in the centre of the plate, arrange the roasted
10 portions). vegetables around, then garnish with fresh herbs.
3 Stir well, cover and leave to stand for 5 minutes.
Professional tip
4 Separate the grains with a fork. When adding the vinegar and oil, add just enough to
5 Add the balsamic vinegar, olive oil, lemon juice give the correct texture and flavour.
and seasoning.
6 Mix well, then stir in the chopped herbs.
Healthy eating tips
7 Finish by adding the roasted vegetables. l Use an unsaturated oil and lightly brush the
vegetables when roasting.
l Use the minimum amount of salt.

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48 Caesar salad

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Cos lettuce (medium size) 2 5
Croutons, 2 cm square 16 40
Eggs, fresh 2 5
Dressing
Garlic, finely chopped 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Anchovy fillets, mashed 4 10
Lemon juice 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Virgin olive oil 6 tbsp 15 tbsp
White wine vinegar 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Salt, black mill pepper
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
To serve
1,494 kJ 361 kcal 32.2 g 7.9 g 5.1 g 2.0 g 12.9 g 1.2 g

Using toast for croutons. Parmesan, freshly grated 75 g 190 g

1 Separate the lettuce leaves, wash, dry thoroughly


Professional tip
and refrigerate.
Because the eggs are only lightly cooked, they must
2 Lightly grill or fry (in good fresh oil) the croutons be perfectly fresh, and the salad must be prepared and
on all sides. served immediately. In the interests of food safety, the
3 Plunge the eggs into boiling water for 1 minute, eggs are sometimes hard boiled.
remove and set aside. Alternatively, the salad may be garnished with hard-
boiled gull’s eggs.
4 Break the lettuce into serving-sized pieces and
place into a salad bowl.
5 Mix the dressing, break the eggs, spoon out the
Healthy eating tips
contents, mix with a fork, add to the dressing and
l No added salt is needed; anchovies and cheese are
mix into the salad. high in salt.
6 Mix in the cheese, scatter the croutons on top l Oven bake the croutons.
and serve. l Serve with fresh bread or rolls.

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49 Niçoise salad

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Tomatoes 100 g 250 g
French beans, cooked 200 g 500 g
Diced potatoes, cooked 100 g 250 g
Salt, pepper
Vinaigrette 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Anchovy fillets 10 g 25 g
Capers 5g 12 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
217 kJ 52 kcal 2.4 g 0.4 g 6.3 g 1.2 g 1.7 g 2.5 g Stoned olives 10 g 25 g

1 Peel the tomatoes, deseed and cut into neat


Healthy eating tips
segments. l Lightly dress with vinaigrette.
2 Dress the beans, tomatoes and potatoes neatly. l The anchovies are high in salt, so no added salt is
necessary.
3 Season with salt and pepper. Add the vinaigrette.
4 Decorate with anchovies, capers and olives.

50 Avocado and bacon salad

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Thin streaky bacon rashers, rind 8 20
and excess fat trimmed
Fresh lemon juice 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Garlic clove, crushed finely 1 2½
Extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Ripe avocados, medium 2 5
Snow pea sprouts, stems trimmed 50 g 125 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,462 kJ 354 kcal 34.4 g 7.6 g 2.4 g 0.7 g 9.0 g 4.9 g 1.0 g

1 Grill the bacon rashers under a salamander until 3 Halve the avocados lengthways, remove the
crisp. Transfer to a tray lined with kitchen paper stones and peel the skin. Place the avocados on to
and allow to cool. a chopping board, cut side down, and cut in half
2 Place the lemon juice and garlic in a mixing bowl lengthways, then crossways into slices 1 cm thick.
and whisk in the olive oil. Season with salt and 4 Layer the avocados, bacon and snow pea
pepper. sprouts on serving plates, drizzling the dressing
between the layers. Serve immediately.

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Cold fish and shellfish dishes

51 Smoked salmon

Allow 35–50 g per portion.


1 A side of smoked salmon must be carefully
trimmed to remove the dry outside surface before
service. Remove all bones (a pair of pliers is
useful for this).
2 Carve the salmon on the slant, as thinly as possible.
3 Dress neatly, overlapping, on a plate or dish,
decorated with sprigs of parsley Accompaniments
include brown bread and butter, and lemon.

Note
Other smoked fish served as hors d’oeuvres include
halibut, eel, conger eel, trout, mackerel, herring
(buckling), cod’s roe and sprats.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
149 kJ 36 kcal 1.1 g 0.3 g 0.0 g 0.0 g 6.4 g 0.0 g
Healthy eating tips
Oily fish (such as salmon, trout, mackerel, rollmops
and sprats) are high in omega-3 fatty acids, which are
beneficial for health.

52 Oysters

Ingredient 4 portions
Rock or native oysters 24
Lemon 1
To accompany
Brown bread and butter

Tabasco or chilli sauce

Note
Make sure the oysters have been grown in or fished
from clean waters, and take note of the famous rule only
to use them when there is an ‘r’ in the month, although
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium rock oysters are available throughout the year.
192 kJ 45 kcal 0.9 g 0.2 g 2.7 g 1.0 g 6.8 g 0.4 g 0.3 g

Excluding accompaniments.

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1 Select only those oysters that are tightly shut 4 Once the lid has been penetrated, push down.
and have a fresh smell (category A is best, which The lid should pop open. Lift up the top shell,
means the waters they have grown in are clean). cutting the muscle attached to it.
2 To open an oyster, only the point of the oyster 5 Remove any splintered shell from the flesh and
knife is used. Hold the oyster with a thick oven solid shell.
cloth to protect your hand. 6 Return each oyster to its shell and serve on a bed
3 With the oyster in the palm of your hand, push the of crushed ice with chilli sauce, brown bread and
point of the knife about 1 cm deep into the ‘hinge’ lemon.
between the ‘lid’ and the body of the oyster.

53 Dressed crab

Ingredient 1 portion
Whole crab, cooked 1 (200–300 g)
Salt, pepper
Worcester sauce
Mayonnaise
Fresh white breadcrumbs
Decoration as required, e.g. parsley and hard-boiled egg

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
1,974 kJ 474 kcal 28.6 g 4.4 g 0.8 g 0.7 g 53.1 g 0.7 g 1.2 g

1 Remove large claws and sever at the joints. 9 Trim the shell by tapping carefully along the
2 Remove the flexible pincer from the claw. natural line.
3 Crack or saw carefully and remove all flesh. 10 Scrub the shell thoroughly and leave to dry.
4 Remove flesh from two remaining joints with the 11 Dress the brown meat down the centre of the shell.
handle of spoon. 12 Shred the white meat, taking care to remove any
5 Carefully remove the soft undershell. small pieces of shell.
6 Discard the gills (dead man’s fingers) and the sac 13 Dress neatly on either side of the brown meat.
behind the eyes. 14 Decorate as desired, using any of the following:
7 Scrape out all the inside of the shell and pass chopped parsley, hard-boiled white and yolk of
through a sieve. egg, anchovies, capers, olives.
8 Season with salt, pepper, Worcester sauce and a 15 Serve the crab on a flat dish garnished with lettuce
little mayonnaise; thicken lightly with fresh white leaves, quarters of tomato and the crab’s legs.
breadcrumbs. 16 Serve a vinaigrette or mayonnaise sauce separately.

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54 Cold salmon

Salmon may be obtained in varying weights from 3.5–


15 kg: 0.5 kg of uncleaned salmon yields 2–3 portions.
Size is an important consideration, depending on
whether the salmon is to be cooked whole or cut into
darnes. A salmon of any size may be cooked whole.
When required for darnes, a medium-sized salmon is
more suitable.

For the court bouillon


1 Simmer all the ingredients for 30–40 minutes.
2 Pass through a strainer, use as required.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
2,141 kJ 517 kcal 40.3 g 6.5 g 5.1 g 4.5 g 33.0 g 1.8 g 1.2 g
Cooking for service in darnes
Ingredient 2–3 portions 8–10 portions or portions
Cooking liquid (court bouillon) 1 Cook the salmon in the court bouillon, either
Water 1 litre 2.5 litres whole or cut into darnes.
Salt 10 g 25 g 2 Allow to cool thoroughly in the cooking liquid to
Carrots, sliced 50 g 125 g keep it moist. Divide a whole salmon into eight
Bay leaf 2–3 5–8 even portions; for darnes, remove the centre
bone and cut each darne in half, if required.
Parsley stalks
3 Except when whole, remove the centre bone, the
Vinegar 60 ml 150 ml
skin and brown surface, and dress neatly on a flat
Peppercorns 6 15
dish.
Onions, sliced 50 g 125 g
4 Peel and slice the cucumber and neatly arrange a
Sprig of thyme few slices on each portion.
Salmon for service in darnes or portions
5 Garnish with quarters of lettuce and quarters of
Salmon, cleaned 500 g 1.25 kg tomatoes.
Court bouillon (see above) 400 ml 1 litre 6 Serve the sauce or mayonnaise in a sauceboat
Cucumber ¼ ½ separately.
Large lettuce ½ 1
Professional tip
Tomatoes 80 g 200 g
Always allow the salmon to remain in the court bouillon
Mayonnaise (recipe 4) or green 100 ml 250 ml until cold.
sauce (recipe 6)

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Cooking and presenting 8 Allow the cooked salmon to cool, then remove it
from the liquid. Carefully remove the skin and the
salmon whole dark layer under the skin (which is cooked blood).
1 Scrape off all scales, from tail to head, using the The now bared salmon flesh should be perfectly
back of a knife. smooth.
2 Remove all gills and clean out the head. 9 Make sure the salmon is well drained and place it
on to the serving dish or board.
3 Remove the intestines and clear the blood from
the backbone. 10 The salmon is now ready for decorating and
garnishing. Keep this to the minimum and avoid
4 Trim off all fins. Wash well.
over-covering the fish and the dish. Neatly
5 Place in a salmon kettle and cover with cold court overlapping thin slices of cucumber (the skin
bouillon. may be left on or removed), quartered tomatoes
6 Bring slowly to the boil, skim, then simmer very (which can be peeled and neatly cut), small
gently. pieces of hearts of lettuce can, if artistically
7 Allow the following approximate simmering times: set out, give a quick, neat-looking, appetising
• 3.5 kg – 15 minutes appearance. Remember though, time is money –
• 7 kg – 20 minutes there is no justification for spending a lot of time
• 10.5 kg – 25 minutes cutting fiddly little pieces of many different items
• 14 kg – 30 minutes. to form patterns that often look untidy.

55 Fish salad (salade de poisson) 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Cooked fish, free from skin and 200 g 500 g
bone
Egg, hard-boiled 1 2–3
Cucumber (optional) 50 g 125 g
Lettuce ½ 1
Parsley or fennel, chopped

Salt, pepper

Vinaigrette 1 tbsp 2–3 tbsp

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


978 kJ 233 kcal 13.5 g 3.0 g 1.5 g 1.4 g 26.4 g 1.3 g

For 4 portions.

1 Flake the fish.


2 Cut the egg and cucumber into 0.5 cm dice and
finely shred the lettuce
3 Mix ingredients together and add the parsley.
Healthy eating tips
Use salt sparingly. 4 Correct the seasoning and mix in the vinaigrette.
5 It may be decorated with lettuce, anchovies and
capers.
Note
Be careful not to overcook the fish.

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56 Sea bass ceviche

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Sea bass fillet, skinless, free of 400 g 1 kg
bone
Large lime, juice only 1 2½
Yuzu juice 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Coriander leaves, finely chopped 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp
Shallots, finely chopped 2 5
Ginger, shredded 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Red chilli, deseeded, finely chopped 1 2½
Sugar 1 tsp 2½ tsp
Light pomace oil or vegetable oil 1 tsp 2½ tsp
To serve
Sea salt

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Crunchy raw salad of carrot, fennel
540 kJ 128 kcal 3.8 g 0.6 g 3.8 g 3.5 g 19.8 g 0.5 g 0.3 g and celeriac

1 In a shallow, non-metallic tray, combine all the 4 To finish, lay the fish neatly on a plate with a little
ingredients except the fish. of the curing garnish and juice.
2 Slice the fish at a 45 degree angle, 5 mm thick. 5 Season with a little sea salt and serve with a
3 Place the fish into the curing liquid. Refrigerate for crunchy salad.
20 minutes until the edges of the fish turn white
(do not leave too long as the fish will cure through Note
and resemble rollmops). Yuzu is a citrus fruit grown in east Asia – the juice is
available in bottles.

57 Soused herring or mackerel

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Herrings or mackerel 2 5
Salt, pepper
Button onions 25 g 60 g
Carrots, peeled and fluted 25 g 60 g
Bay leaf ½ 1½
Peppercorns 6 15
Thyme 1 sprig 2 sprigs
Vinegar 60 ml 150 ml

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


605 kJ 144 kcal 11.1 g 2.4 g 0.8 g 0.8 g 10.3 g 0.3 g

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1 Clean, scale and fillet the fish. 7 Cover with greaseproof paper and cook in a
2 Wash the fillets well and season with salt and moderate oven for 15–20 minutes.
pepper. 8 Allow to cool, place in a dish with the onion and
3 Roll up with the skin outside. Place in an carrot.
earthenware dish. 9 Garnish with picked parsley, dill or chives.
4 Peel and wash the onion. Cut the onion and
carrots into neat, thin rings. Healthy eating tips
l Serve with plenty of salad vegetables and bread or
5 Blanch for 2–3 minutes. toast (optional butter or spread).
6 Add to the fish with the remainder of the l Keep added salt to a minimum.
ingredients.

58 Crab, lobster, shrimp or prawn cocktail (cocktail de


crabe, homard, crevettes, crevettes roses)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Lettuce ½ 1¼
Prepared shellfish 100–150 g 250–350 g
Shellfish cocktail sauce 125 ml 300 ml
(see recipe 11)

1 Wash, drain well and finely shred the lettuce,


avoiding long strands. Place about 2 cm deep in
cocktail glasses or dishes.
2 Add the prepared shellfish: crab (shredded white
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre
966 kJ 230 kcal 21.0 g 3.2 g 0.6 g 0.6g 9.6 g 0.3 g meat only); lobster (cut into 2 cm dice); shrimps
(peeled and washed); prawns (peeled, washed
and, if large, cut into two or three pieces).
Professional tip
3 Coat with sauce.
Portion control is important so that this dish does not
cost too much to produce. The cocktail needs to be 4 Decorate with an appropriate piece of the
presented well. content, such as a prawn, with the shell on the
tail removed, placed on the edge of the glass of a
prawn cocktail. A more modern presentation is to
serve the cocktail plated.

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59 Potted shrimps

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 1 Put the butter, chives and cayenne pepper in a
medium-sized pan and leave to melt over a
Butter 100 g 250 g
gentle heat.
Chives, chopped 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
2 Add the peeled shrimps and stir over the heat
Cayenne pepper, to taste
for a couple of minutes until they have heated
Brown shrimps, peeled 600 g 1.5 kg through, but don’t let the mixture boil.
Clarified butter 6 tbsp 15 tbsp 3 Divide the shrimps and butter between four small
ramekins. Level the tops and then leave them to
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
set in the refrigerator.
3,887 kJ 942 kcal 92.9 g 58.1 g 1.1 g 0.7 g 25.7 g 0.1 g 0.9 g
4 Spoon over a thin layer of clarified butter and
This is a real seaside dish, full of flavour and eaten leave to set once more. Serve with plenty of
with plenty of brown bread and butter. Lobster or brown toast or crusty brown bread.
langoustine can be used – although timings will need
to be adapted accordingly. The traditional seasoning
Professional tip
for potted shrimps is ground mace.
l Do not let the mixture boil (step 2) – if it does, the
shrimps will become tough.
l Remove from the fridge and allow to warm slightly
before serving, to bring out the flavour.

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60 Fruits de mer

To prepare the seafood


1 Cut the lobster in half lengthways. Remove the
stomach and give the claws a crack to break the
shell.
2 Open the crab, remove the ‘dead man’s fingers’
and cut the body into four. Give the claws a few
cracks to break the shell – this will make getting
the meat out at the table easier.
3 Put the prawns, winkles, clams, cockles, mussels
and langoustines into a pan with the white wine,
parsley stalks, shallots and salt. Bring to the boil,
cover and steam for 4 minutes until the mussels,
clams and cockles open. Remove from the water
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
and put on a tray to cool.
Lobster, cooked 1 2½
4 Open the oysters with an oyster knife.
Crab, cooked 1 2½
5 Place a generous portion of crushed ice on a tray.
Large prawns, cooked 12 30
Arrange the lobster, crab, langoustines, clams,
Winkles, raw 100 g 250 g mussels, cockles, winkles, prawns and oysters on
Fresh clams 200 g 500 g the ice, garnishing with lemon and parsley.
Fresh cockles 200 g 500 g
Note
Mussels, live 200 g 500 g
Langoustines, live 6 10 Dead man’s fingers are the crab’s gills. You can see
them inside the crab: they are grey and shaped like
White wine 75 ml 200 ml
fingers.
Parsley stalks 4 10
Shallots, roughly chopped 2 5
To make the sauces
Salt
Oysters 12 30
1 Divide the mayonnaise into thirds. Set one third to
one side.
For the sauces
Mayonnaise (recipe 4) 250 ml 625 ml
2 Mix the chopped garlic into another third of the
mayonnaise.
Garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 5
3 To make seafood sauce, mix the tomato ketchup,
Tomato ketchup 2 tsp 5 tsp
the brandy and a dash of Tabasco into the
Brandy 1 tbsp 2½ tbsp remaining mayonnaise.
Tabasco sauce
4 To make shallot vinegar, mix together the red wine
Red wine vinegar 100 ml 250 ml vinegar and the shallots.
Shallots, finely chopped 2 5 Serve the fruits de mer with the mayonnaise, aioli (garlic
To serve mayonnaise), seafood sauce, shallot vinegar, lemon
Sprigs of parsley and lemon wedges and Tabasco, and chorizo sausage if desired.
wedges, to garnish
Chorizo sausage, warm, to garnish
(optional)

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
3,440 kJ 828 kcal 56.5 g 8.7 g 6.8 g 3.7 g 65.6 g 0.9 g 2.3 g

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

Cold meat dishes and pies

61 Chicken salad 

Ingredient 4 portion 10 portion


Fresh chicken 1.5 kg 3.75 kg
Black peppercorns 10 25
Bay leaves 3 7
Cumin seeds, ground 2 tsp 5 tsp
Almonds, sliced 25 g 60 g
For the dressing
Greek yoghurt 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Mayonnaise 3 tbsp 7 tbsp
Lemons, juice and zest of 2 5
Cucumber, peeled and diced 1 2½
Fresh basil, picked and torn 25 g 60 g
To serve
Mixed salad leaves 100 g 250 g
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium
4,752 kJ 1,148 kcal 95.2 g 27.3 g 3.6 g 2.7 g 70.0 g 0.7 g 0.4 g Vinaigrette 20 ml 50 ml

1 Place the chicken in a large saucepan and cover 4 Dry fry the cumin and almonds in a hot pan and
with water. leave to cool.
2 Add the peppercorns and bay leaves and bring 5 To make the dressing, mix the yoghurt,
to a gentle simmer. Poach gently for about mayonnaise and lemon zest and juice in a large
40 minutes and leave it to cool in the liquid. bowl.
3 Once cool, take the chicken out of the pan, 6 Add the chicken, cucumber, cumin and almonds
remove the skin and shred the meat. Cover and with the torn basil. Mix well and serve on a bed of
place in a refrigerator. the mixed salad leaves tossed lightly in vinaigrette.

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Cold presentation 18

62 Raised pork pie 

For the pastry:


1 Sift the flour and salt into a basin. Make a well in
the centre.
2 Boil the fat with the water and pour immediately
into the flour.
3 Mix with a wooden spoon until cool enough to
handle.
4 Mix to a smooth paste and use while still warm.
For the filling:
1 Cut the pork and bacon into small even pieces
and combine with the rest of the main ingredients.
2 Keep one-quarter of the paste warm and covered.
Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions
3 Roll out the remaining three-quarters and carefully
Hot water paste line a well-greased raised pie mould. Ensure that
Strong plain flour 250 g 500 g there is a thick rim of pastry.
Salt 4 Add the filling and press down firmly.
Lard or margarine (alternatively 125 g 300 g 5 Roll out the remaining pastry for the lid and egg
use 100 g lard and 25 g butter or
margarine) wash the edges of the pie.
Water 125 ml 300 ml 6 Add the lid, seal firmly, neaten the edges, cut off
Filling any surplus paste; decorate if desired.
Shoulder of pork, without bone 300 g 1 kg 7 Make a hole 1 cm in diameter in the centre of the
Bacon 100 g 250 g pie; brush all over with egg wash.
Allspice (or mixed spice) and ½ tsp 1½ tsp 8 Bake in a hot oven (230–250 °C) for approximately
chopped sage 20 minutes.
Salt, pepper 9 Reduce the heat to moderate (150–200 °C) and
Bread, soaked in milk 50 g 125 g cook for 1½–2 hours in all.
Stock or water 2 tbsp 5 tbsp 10 If the pie colours too quickly, cover with
Egg wash greaseproof paper or foil. Remove from the oven
Stock, hot 125 ml 375 ml
and carefully remove tin. Egg wash the pie all over
and return to the oven for a few minutes.
Gelatine 5g 12.5 g
11 Remove from the oven and fill with approximately
Picked watercress and salad to
serve 125 ml of good hot stock in which 5 g of gelatine
has been dissolved.
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium Serve when cold, garnished with picked watercress
3,005 kJ 721 kcal 47.7 g 19.3 g 49.2 g 1.7 g 26.7 g 2.7 g 1.2 g and offer a suitable salad.

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63 Veal and ham pie 

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions


Hot water paste (see recipe 62) 125 ml 310 ml
Ham or bacon 150 g 375 g
Salt, pepper
Egg, hard-boiled 1 2½
Lean veal 250 g 625 g
Parsley and thyme ½ tsp 1¼ tsp
Lemon, grated zest of 1 2½
Stock or water 2 tbsp 5 tbsp
Bread, soaked in milk 50 g 125 g
Gelatine 5g 12.5 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Proceed as for raised pork pie (recipe 62) but place the
607 kJ 144 kcal 4.5 g 1.5 g 3.8 g 0.8 g 22.4 g 0.1 g shelled egg in the centre of the mixture. Serve when
cold, garnished with picked watercress and offer a
suitable salad.

Partly fill the pie, then place egg(s) into the Add the pastry lid and seal it firmly Pour gelatine dissolved in stock into the pie
centre after baking

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Cold presentation 18

Pâtés and terrines

64 Liver pâté (pâté de foie)

Ingredient 4 portions 10 portions 6 Place the mixture into the terrine. Cover with fat
bacon.
Liver (chicken, pig, calf, lamb, etc.) 100 g 250 g
7 Stand in a tray half-full of water and bring to
Butter or oil 25 g 60 g
simmering point.
Onion, chopped 10 g 25 g
8 Cook in a moderate oven for 1 hour. Use a
Cloves of garlic 1 2½
temperature probe to check that the centre
Sprigs of parsley, thyme, chervil reaches 70 °C.
Fat pork 50 g 125 g 9 Blast chill. When quite cold, cut into 0.5 cm slices
Salt, pepper and serve on lettuce leaves. Usually served
Fat bacon 25 g 60 g accompanied with freshly made toast.

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Note
896 kJ 213 kcal 19.1 g 8.5 g 0.7 g 0.1 g 9.8 g 0.0 g
This is a typical recipe for a homemade terrine, often
1 Cut the liver into 2 cm pieces. seen on the menu as pâté maison.

2 Toss quickly in the butter or oil in a frying pan over


a fierce heat for a few seconds with the onion,
Healthy eating tips
garlic and herbs. l Use an unsaturated oil (sunflower or olive). Lightly oil
3 Allow to cool. the pan and drain off any excess after the frying is
complete.
4 Pass the liver and fat pork together through a l The bacon is high in salt so very little (or no) added
mincer, twice. Season. salt is necessary.
5 Line an earthenware terrine with wafer-thin slices
of fat bacon.

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

65 Terrine of bacon, spinach and mushrooms

Ingredient 12 portions
Collar of bacon 1 kg
Carrot 1
Onion clouté 1
Bouquet garni 1
Celery 2 sticks
Peppercorns 8
Fresh spinach 500 g
Butter 50 g
Mushrooms (preferably morels) 200 g

Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre


1,436 kJ 347 kcal 30.4 g 7.2 g 1.2 g 1.0 g 17.0 g 1.4 g

Using common mushrooms.

1 If necessary soak the bacon overnight. Drain. 9 Line the terrine with cling film, then the spinach
2 Place the bacon in cold water, bring to the boil, leaves. Layer with bacon, mushrooms and
add the carrot, onion, bouquet garni, celery and spinach. Cover with spinach leaves and cling film.
peppercorns. Wait for 12 hours or overnight.
3 Simmer until tender. 10 When ready, turn out, slice and serve on plates,
with leek and mushroom vinaigrette served
4 Pick some large leaves of spinach to line the
separately.
terrine dish. Blanch the leaves, refresh and drain.
5 Lightly cook the rest of the spinach gently; Healthy eating tips
refresh, drain and shred. l Soaking the bacon overnight will remove some of
6 Alternatively, shred the spinach raw, quickly cook the salt.
l Use only a little butter to cook the mushrooms.
in butter, drain and then blast chill.
l Use a minimum amount of salt to season the
7 Cook the mushrooms in a little butter, season and vinaigrette.
chill well. l Serve with warm bread rolls, butter optional.

8 When cool, remove the bacon from the cooking


liquor and chop into small pieces.

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Cold presentation 18

Bread products

66 Sandwiches
For speed of production, sandwiches are made in Bookmaker sandwich
bands by cutting the bread lengthways. Once filled, the
This is an underdone minute steak between two slices
crusts are removed and the sandwiches cut into fingers.
of hot buttered toast.
Today, bakers will bake bread to your specification
and slice it ready for use. The specification may also
include speciality breads such as tomato, basil, walnut Double- and triple-decker
and olive bread. sandwiches
Sandwiches may be made from every kind of bread,
Toasted and untoasted bread can be made into
fresh or toasted, in a variety of shapes, and with an almost
double-decker sandwiches, using three slices of
endless assortment of fillings. They may be garnished
bread with two separate fillings. Triple- and quadro-
with potato or vegetable crisps and a little salad.
decker sandwiches may also be prepared. They may
Sandwiches may also be cut into small cubes and a
be served hot or cold.
variety placed on a cocktail stick like a mini kebab.

Toasted sandwiches Open sandwich or Scandinavian


These are made by inserting a variety of savoury fillings smorgasbord
between two slices of hot, freshly buttered toast (for These are prepared from a buttered slice of any bread,
example, scrambled egg, bacon, fried egg, scrambled garnished with any type of meat, fish, eggs, vegetables
egg with chopped ham) or by inserting two slices of or salad. Varieties of open sandwich include the
buttered bread with the required filling into a sandwich following:
toaster. l smoked salmon, lettuce, potted shrimps, slice of
lemon
Club sandwich l cold sliced beef, sliced tomato, fans of gherkins
l shredded lettuce, sliced hard-boiled egg,
Energy Cals Fat Sat fat Carb Sugar Protein Fibre Sodium mayonnaise, cucumber
3473 kJ 832 kcal 54.0 g 18.3 g 51.0 g 4.5 g 39.0 g 3.1 g 1.5 g
l pickled herring, chopped gherkin, capers (sieved),
Using 2 slices of bacon, 50 g chicken and 1 egg.
hard-boiled egg.
This is a filling of lettuce, grilled bacon, slices of hard-
boiled egg, mayonnaise and slices of chicken layered
between three slices of hot buttered toast.

Bookmaker sandwich A selection of open sandwiches

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

67 Wraps

Wraps are fillings wrapped in tortillas (plain or


flavoured, for example, tomato or herb). A wide variety
of fillings can be used, for example: chicken and
roasted vegetables; beans and red pepper salad with
guacamole (a well-flavoured avocado pulp).
Flat breads, such as pitta and ciabatta, can also be
used with various fillings (for example, chicken tikka).

68 Bagels

Bagels are ring, doughnut-shaped rolls of leavened


bread that are boiled before being baked, giving them
a shiny finish and a soft middle (see page 426). They
are traditionally filled with smoked salmon and cream
cheese (a Jewish speciality) but other fillings can also
be used.
Cut horizontally, bagels make a good base for open
sandwiches.

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Cold presentation 18

69 Canapés

Canapés are usually offered with drinks before meals or Some examples of hot canapés (not shown) are as
at a drinks reception. They need to be small, attractive follows:
and well flavoured. A wide variety of cold canapés l small Yorkshire puddings with a slice of beef
can be offered. Just a few examples are shown in the topped with horseradish cream
photo: l oyster beignets with garlic mayonnaise
l vichyssoise (see page 76) with potato foam l aubergine and goats’ cheese tartlet
l aubergine and pine nut fritters with chilli jam l monkfish spring rolls with remoulade sauce
l chive pancake, red onion confit and crème fraiche l chicken and risotto croquettes
roulade l small pizzas
l buckwheat blini with fromage blanc, smoked l small pieces of chicken on skewers with bacon
salmon and avruga caviar l chicken satay
l sashimi beef with wasabi and toasted sesame l angels on horseback (oysters wrapped with bacon)
seeds on a croûte l vegetable samosas (see page 241)
l rosemary shortbread with feta cheese, black olives l latkes.
and sun-roasted cherry tomato Dips for hot canapés may include:
l pumpernickel croûte with salmon tartare l garlic mayonnaise
l lemon and saffron chicken bruschetta l yoghurt, cucumber and mint
l Thai swordfish bonbon with samphire. l apricot chutney.

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18 PracticalCookeryL2NVQs Chapter 18.indd 620 12/03/2015 14:20


Glossary

Glossary
à la In the style of Beansprouts Young shoots of dried beans, e.g. mung beans,
à la française In the French style alfalfa or soybeans
à la minute Cooked to order Beurre manié Equal quantities of flour and butter used for
thickening sauces
à la carte Dishes prepared to order and priced individually
Blanc A cooking liquor of water, lemon juice, flour and salt;
Abatis de volaille Poultry offal, giblets, etc.
also used to describe the white of chicken (breast and wings)
Abats Offal: heads, hearts, liver, kidney, etc.
Blanch
Accompaniments Items offered separately with a dish of food l To make something white (referring to bones and meat)
Agar-agar A vegetable gelling agent obtained from l To cook but retain colour (referring to certain vegetables)
seaweed, used as a substitute for gelatine l To skin (referring to tomatoes)

Aile A wing (of poultry or game birds) l To make limp (referring to certain braised vegetables)
l To cook without colour, e.g. the first frying of fried potatoes
Aloyau de boeuf Sirloin of beef
(chips)
Ambient Room temperature, surrounding atmosphere
Blanquette A white stew cooked in stock from which the
Amino acid Organic acids found in proteins sauce is made
Antibiotic A drug used to destroy disease-producing germs Blitz To rapidly purée or foam a light sauce, generally using
within human or animal bodies an electric hand blender at the last moment before service
Antiseptic A substance that prevents the growth of bacteria Bombay duck Small, dried, salted fish; fried, it is used as an
and moulds, specifically on or in the human body accompaniment to curry dishes
Aromats Fragrant herbs and spices Bombe An ice cream speciality of different flavours in a bomb
Arroser To baste, for example during roasting shape
Ascorbic acid Known as Vitamin C; found in citrus fruits and Bone out To remove the bones
blackcurrants; necessary for growth and the maintenance of Botulism A rare form of food poisoning
health
Bouchée A small puff paste case, literally ‘a mouthful’
Aspic A savoury jelly mainly used for decorative larder work
Bouillon Unclarified stock
Assorti An assortment
Bouquet garni A bundle of herbs (e.g. parsley stalks, thyme
Au bleu When applied to meat, this means very underdone and bay leaf), tied in pieces of celery and leek
Au beurre With butter Brine A preserving solution of water, salt, saltpetre and
Au four Baked in the oven aromats, used for meats (e.g. silverside, brisket, tongue)
Au gratin Sprinkled with cheese or breadcrumbs and then Brunoise Small dice
browned Buttermilk Liquid remaining from the churning of butter
Au vin blanc With white wine Calcium A mineral required for building bones and teeth,
Bactericide A substance that destroys bacteria obtained from cheese and milk
Bacterium (plural: bacteria) Single-celled micro-organisms: Calorie A unit of heat or energy, known as a kilocalorie
some are harmful and cause food poisoning; others are useful, Canapé Traditionally, a cushion of bread on which are
such as those used in cheese making served various foods, hot or cold; also used to describe small,
Bain-marie attractive, well-flavoured dishes offered before a meal or at a
l A container of water to keep foods hot without burning them drinks reception
l A container of water for cooking foods without burning them
Carbohydrate A nutrient; there are three types of
l A deep, narrow container for storing hot sauces, soups and
carbohydrate – sugar and starch, which provide the body with
gravies energy, and cellulose, which provides roughage (dietary fibre)
Barding Covering the breasts of birds with thin slices of bacon Carbon dioxide A gas produced by all raising agents
Barquette A boat-shaped pastry case Carrier A person who harbours and may transmit pathogenic
Basting Spooning melted fat over food during cooking to organisms without showing signs of illness
keep it moist Carte du jour Menu for the day
Bat out To flatten slices of raw meat with a cutlet bat Casserole An earthenware, fireproof dish with a lid
Bean curd Also known as tofu (see below); a curdled, soft, Cellulose The coarse structure of fruit, vegetables and cereals
cheese-like preparation made from soybean milk; a good that is not digested but is used as roughage (dietary fibre)
source of protein
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Châteaubriand The head of the fillet of beef Cuisse de poulet Chicken leg
Chaud-froid A demi-glace or creamed velouté with gelatine Danger zone of bacterial growth The temperature
or aspic added, used for masking cold dishes range within which pathogenic bacteria are able to multiply;
Chiffonade Fine shreds, e.g. of spinach, lettuce between 10 and 63 °C
Chinois A conical strainer Dariole A small mould, as used for crème caramel
Chlorophyll The green colour in vegetables Darne A slice of round fish (e.g. salmon) on the bone
Ciseler To make slight incisions in the surface of a thick fillet Déglacer (to deglaze) To swill out a pan in which food has
of fish, on or off the bone, to allow even cooking been roasted or fried, with wine, stock or water, in order to use
the sediment for the accompanying sauce or gravy
Civet A brown stew of game, usually hare
Dégraisser To skim fat off liquid
Clarification/to clarify To make something clear, such as
stock, jelly or butter Delivery note A form sent by a supplier with the delivery of
goods
Clostridium perfringens Food-poisoning bacterium found
in the soil, vegetables and meat Demi-glace A brown stock reduced to a light consistency
Coagulation The solidification of protein; it is irreversible; Désosser To bone out meat
examples occur when frying an egg or cooking meat Detergent A substance that dissolves grease
Cocotte Porcelain or earthenware fireproof dish Dilute To mix a powder (e.g. cornflour) with a liquid
Collagen/elastin Proteins in connective tissue (e.g. gristle) Disinfectant A substance that reduces the risk of infection
Compote Stewed (e.g. stewed fruit) Doily A fancy dish paper
Concassé Coarsely chopped (e.g. parsley, tomatoes) Drain To place food in a colander, allowing liquid to seep out
Confit Cooked meat, poultry or game preserved in good fat Duxelle Finely chopped mushrooms cooked with chopped
or oil shallots
Consommé A simple, clear soup Eggwash Beaten egg with a little milk or water
Contamination The occurrence of any objectionable matter Emulsion A mixture of liquid (e.g. vinegar) and oil, which
in food does not separate when left to stand (e.g. mayonnaise,
Contrefilet Boned-out sirloin of beef hollandaise)
Cook out The process of cooking flour in a roux, soup or sauce Entrecôte A steak cut from a boned sirloin
Cordon A thread or thin line of sauce Enzymes Chemical substances produced from living cells
Correcting Adjusting the seasoning, consistency and colour Escalope A thin slice such as escalope of veal
Côte A rib or chop Farce Stuffing
Côtelette A cutlet Fecule Fine potato flour
Coulis Sauce made of fruit or vegetable puree (e.g. raspberry, Feuilletage Puff pastry
tomato) Fines herbes Chopped fresh herbs (e.g. parsley, tarragon,
Coupe An individual serving bowl chervil)
Couper To cut First aid materials Suitable and sufficient bandages and
dressings, including waterproof dressings and antiseptic; all
Court bouillon A well-flavoured cooking liquor for fish
dressings must be individually wrapped
Crème fraiche Whipping cream and buttermilk heated to
Flake To break something into natural segments (e.g. fish)
24–29 °C
Flan An open tart
Crêpes Pancakes
Fleurons Small, crescent-shaped pieces of puff pastry
Credit note Issued when an invoice contains incorrect
details; credit is therefore given Flute A 20 cm diameter French bread used for soup garnishes
Croquettes Cooked foods moulded into a cylinder shape, Food-borne Bacteria carried on food
coated in flour and egg, crumbed and deep-fried Food handling Any operation in the storage, preparation,
Cross-contamination The transfer of micro-organisms from production, processing, packaging, transportation, distribution
contaminated to uncontaminated hands, utensils or equipment and sale of food
Croutons Cubes of fried or toasted bread served with soup; Frappé Chilled (e.g. melon frappé)
also triangular pieces served with spinach, and heart-shaped Freezer burn Affects frozen items, which are spoiled due to
pieces with certain dishes being left unprotected for too long
Crudités Small, neat pieces of raw vegetables served with a Friandises Sweetmeats, petits fours
dip as an appetiser
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Glossary

Fricassée A white stew in which the meat, poultry or fish is Micro-organisms Very small living plants or animals
cooked in the sauce (bacteria, yeasts, moulds)
Friture A pan that contains deep fat Mignonette Coarsely ground pepper
Fumé Smoked (e.g. saumon fumé is smoked salmon) Mildew A type of fungus, similar to mould
Garam masala A combination of spices Mineral salts Mineral elements, small quantities of which are
Garnish Served as part of the main item; trimmings essential for health
Gastroenteritis Inflammation of the stomach and intestinal Mirepoix Roughly cut vegetables (e.g. onions, leeks, celery
tract that normally results in diarrhoea and carrots), often with a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf, used as
flavouring elements
Gâteau A cake of more than one portion
Mise-en-place Basic preparation before serving
Ghee The Indian name for clarified butter; ghee is pure
butter fat Miso Seasoning made from fermented soybeans
Gibier Game Monosodium glutamate (MSG) A substance added to food
products to increase flavour
Glace Ice or ice cream from which all milk solids have been
removed Moulds Microscopic plants (fungi) that may appear as woolly
patches on food
Glaze
l To colour a dish under the salamander (e.g. fillets of sole Mousse A dish of light consistency, hot or cold
bonne femme) Napper To coat or mask with sauce
l To finish a flan or tartlet (e.g. with apricot jam) Natives A menu term for English oysters
l To finish certain vegetables (e.g. glazed carrots)
Navarin Brown stew of lamb
Gluten This is formed from the protein in flour when mixed
Niacin Part of Vitamin B; found in liver, kidney, meat extract,
with water
bacon
Gratin A thin coating of grated cheese and/or breadcrumbs
Noisette (nut) A cut from a boned-out loin of lamb
on certain dishes, which is then browned under the grill or in
an oven Nutrients The components of food required for health:
protein, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins, mineral salts, water
Haché Finely chopped or minced
Optimum Best, most favourable
Hazard Something that could cause injury, ill health or harm
Palatable Pleasant to taste
Hors d’oeuvre Appetising first course dishes, hot or cold
Pané Floured, dipped in egg and crumbed
Humidity The amount of moisture in the air
Panettone A very light, traditional Italian Christmas cake
Incubation period The time between infection and the first
signs of illness Parsley butter Butter containing lemon juice and chopped
parsley
Infestations Pests breeding on the premises
Pass To put through a sieve or strainer
Insecticide A chemical used to kill insects
Pathogen A disease-producing organism
Invoice A bill listing items delivered, with the costs of the items
Paupiette A stuffed and rolled strip of fish or meat
Jardinière Cut into batons
Paysanne Cut in even, thin, triangular, round or square pieces
Julienne Cut into fine strips
Persillé Finished with chopped parsley
Jus-lié Thickened gravy
Pesticide A chemical used to kill pests
Larding Inserting strips of fat bacon into meat
Pests Unwanted creatures that may enter food premises, e.g.
Lardons Batons of thick streaky bacon
cockroaches, flies, silverfish
Liaison A thickening or binding
Petits fours Very small pastries, biscuits, sweets, sweetmeats
Macédoine
pH value A scale indicating the acidity or alkalinity in food
l A mixture of fruit or vegetables
l Cut into 0.5 cm dice
Phosphorus A mineral element found in fish; required for
building bones and teeth
Magnetron A device that generates microwaves in a
microwave oven Piquant Sharply flavoured

Marinade A richly spiced pickling liquid used to give flavour Piqué Studded clove in an onion
and assist in tenderising meats Plat du jour Special dish of the day
Marmite A stock pot Poppadoms Dried, thin, large, round wafers made from lentil
Mascarpone An Italian cheese resembling clotted cream flour, used as an accompaniment to Indian dishes

Menu A list of the dishes available Printanier A garnish of spring vegetables

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Protein The nutrient needed for growth and repair Spores The resistant resting phase of bacteria, protecting
Prove To allow a yeast dough to rest in a warm place so that them against adverse conditions such as high temperatures
it can expand Staphylococcus A food-poisoning bacterium found in the
Pulses Vegetables grown in pods (peas and beans) and dried; human nose and throat, and also in septic cuts
a source of protein and roughage Starch A carbohydrate found in cereals, certain vegetables
Quark A salt-free soft cheese made from semi-skimmed milk and farinaceous foods
Ragout A stew, for example ragout de boeuf is brown beef stew Sterile Free from all living organisms
Rare When applied to meat, it means underdone Sterilisation A process that destroys living organisms
Réchauffer To reheat Steriliser A chemical used to destroy all living organisms
Reduce To concentrate a liquid by boiling Stock rotation The sequence of issuing goods, so that the
first into store are the first to be issued
Refresh To make cold under running cold water
Strain To separate the liquid from the solids by passing
Residual insecticide An insecticide that remains active for a
through a strainer
considerable period of time
Sweat To cook in fat under a lid without colour
Riboflavin Vitamin B2; found in yeast, liver, eggs, cheese
Syneresis The squeezing out of liquid from an overcooked
Risk The likelihood that a hazard will cause injury, ill health or
protein and liquid mixture (e.g. scrambled egg, egg custard)
harm
Table d’hôte A meal at a fixed price; a set menu
Rissoler To fry to a golden brown
Tahini A strong-flavoured sesame seed paste
Rodents Rats and mice
Tartlet A small, round pastry case
Roux A thickening of cooked flour and fat
Terrine An earthenware dish used for cooking and serving
Sabayon Egg yolks and a little water or wine, cooked until
pâté; also used as a name for certain products
creamy
Thiamine Vitamin B1; it assists the nervous system; found in
Saccharometer An instrument for measuring the density of
yeast, bacon, wholemeal bread
sugar
Timbale A double serving dish
Salamander A type of grill, heated from above
Tofu Low-fat bean curd made from soybeans
Salmonella A food-poisoning bacterium found in meat and
poultry Tourné Turned, shaped in barrels or large olive shapes
Sanitiser A chemical agent used for cleaning and Tranche A slice
disinfecting surfaces and equipment Trichinosis A disease caused by hair-like worms in the
Sauté muscles of meat (e.g. pork)
l Toss in fat (e.g. pommes sautées) Tronçon A slice of flat fish on the bone (e.g. turbot)
l Cook quickly in a sauté pan or frying pan TVP Texturised vegetable protein, derived from soybeans
l A brown stew of a specific type (e.g. veal sauté)
Vegan A person who does not eat fish, meat, poultry, game,
Seal To place meat in a hot oven or pan to colour the surface dairy products, honey and eggs, and who does not use any
and retain the juices animal products (e.g. leather)
Seared Cooked quickly on both sides in a little hot fat or oil Vegetarian A person who does not eat meat, poultry or game
Seasoned flour Flour seasoned with salt and pepper Velouté
Set l A basic sauce
l To seal the outside surface l A soup of velvety or smooth consistency
l To allow to become firm or firmer (e.g. jelly) Viruses Microscopic pathogens that multiply in the living
Shredded Cut in fine strips (e.g. lettuce, onion) cells of their host
Silicone paper Non-stick paper (e.g. siliconised paper) Vitamins Chemical substances that assist the regulation of
Singe To brown or colour body processes
Smetana A low-fat product; a cross between soured cream Vol-au-vent A large puff pastry case
and yoghurt Wok A round-bottomed pan used extensively in Chinese
Sodium Mineral element in the form of salt (sodium chloride); cooking
found in cheese, bacon, fish, meat Yeast extract A mixture of brewer’s yeast and salt, high in
Soufflé A very light dish, sweet or savoury, hot or cold flavour and protein
Soy sauce Made from soybeans; used extensively in Chinese Yoghurt An easily digested fermented milk product
cookery

624

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Index of recipes

Index of recipes
apples cottage pie 253 doughnuts 433
baked 537 goulash 266 hot cross buns 432
charlotte 538–9 grilled 254 savarin dough 434–5
crumble tartlets 547 Hamburg or Vienna steak 258 savarin syrup 434
flan 454 hamburger, American style 254–5 savarin with fruit 436
fritters 539 jus 94–5 Swiss buns 433
pancakes with 537 oxtail, braised 292–3 cabbage 386
purée 482 silverside, boiled, with carrots and coleslaw 595
sauce 98 dumplings 263 red, braised 387
sorbet 535 sirloin, slow-cooked, with lyonnaise onions red, pickled 587
tarte tatin 548 and carrot purée 272 sauerkraut 283–4
turnovers 475 sirloin steak, with red wine 256–7 cakes and sponges
apricots spaghetti bolognaise 142–3 cherry cakes 497
glaze 501 steak pie 268–9 chocolate gâteau 494
artichokes steak pudding 264–5 chocolate genoise sponge 494
globe 390 stroganoff 257 coconut cakes 497
globe, bottoms 388–9 tournedos 256 coffee gâteau 493
Greek-style 598 wing rib, roasted 270 cup cakes 496–7
Jerusalem, in cream sauce 384 Yorkshire pudding 271 fresh cream and strawberry gâteau 492
asparagus beetroot 353–4 genoise sponge 491–2
points or tips 391 and goats’ cheese tarts with salad of lemon drizzle cake 500
in puff pastry with Gruyère 392 watercress 354 madeleines 498
soup 70 relish 586 marzipan 502
aubergines salad 594 praline 503
fried 397 biscuits queen cakes 497
ratatouille 406 brandy snaps 507 raspberry buns 497
ratatouille pancakes with cheese sauce 407 cats’ tongues 505 rich fruit cake 499–500
stuffed 397 cigarette paste cornets 506 rock cakes 498
avocado othellos 504 roulade sponge 495
and bacon salad 603 piped biscuits 508 scones 497
and coriander salsa 102 shortbread 509 Swiss roll 496
bacon sponge fingers 503–4 Victoria sandwich 490
and avocado salad 603 tuiles 504 carrots
boiled 284 blueberries and butterbean soup 79
ham hock, with sauerkraut and lentils 281–3 baked cheesecake 531–2 buttered 352
joint, roasted 288 bread in cream sauce 352–3
tagliatelle carbonara 145 bagels 426 purée 272, 353
terrine, with spinach and mushrooms 616 cholla 427 cauliflower 361
barramundi focaccia 427–8 au gratin 361
with garlic, ginger and lemon butter and naan 429 Greek-style 598
pak choi 204 olive 423–4 celeriac
batters Parmesan rolls 421 buttered 355
frying batters for fish 194 pizza 428–9 purée 356
pancakes with apple 537 red onion and sage rolls 421 remoulade 589
ratatouille pancakes with cheese sauce 407 rye 424–5 cheese
Yorkshire pudding 271 sauce 335 fritters 413
beans seeded rolls 420 macaroni cheese 144
broad beans 363 soda 425 sauce 85
French bean salad 595 sundried tomato 422 soufflé 414
French beans 364 wholemeal 419 straws 469
haricot bean salad 598 brill cherries
three-bean salad 599 poached on the bone 181 cakes 497
beef broad beans 363 griottines clafoutis 540
bordelaise 256–7 broccoli 360 chicken
bourguignon 260–1 Brussels sprouts 388 ballotine with herb stuffing, steamed, with
braised 261–2 buns red wine jus 317–18
carbonnade 259 Bath buns 432 breast, breadcrumbed, with asparagus 312
consommé 81–2 bun dough 430–1 confit leg, with leeks and artichokes 321–2
Cornish pasties 267 bun wash 430 coq au vin 322–3

625

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

deep-fried 315 ratatouille pancakes with cheese sauce 407 lemon or orange sponge pudding 549
fricassée 318–19 shallow-fried 399 lime and mascarpone cheesecake 531
grilled 309 couscous lime soufflé frappe 529–30
Kiev 315–16 fritters, with feta 133 mango soufflé 554
leg, braised forestière 316–17 with meat and vegetables 132 meringue 528
paella 313–14 salad, with roasted vegetables and mixed orange bavarois 524
palak 314 herbs 601 pancakes with apple 537
pie 323–4 crab raspberry/strawberry bavarois 524
roast chicken jus 95 cakes, with chilli lime dipping sauce 207 raspberry parfait 536
roasted, with dressing 325 cakes, with rocket salad and lemon dressing rice pudding 541
salad 612 208 rice pudding, baked 542
sauté chasseur 310–11 dressed 605 rum/brandy cream or butter 562
soup 69 cranberries sabayon sauce 557
spatchcock 310 and orange dressing for duck 330 soufflé pudding 544
suprême, poached, with Madeira and sauce 99 steamed sponge pudding 549
mushroom café cream sauce 320 cucumber sticky toffee pudding 542–3
tandoori 324–5 salad 592 strawberry sauce 560
terrine with vegetables 332 and tomato salad 594 sultana sponge pudding 549
white stock 56–7 and tomato salsa 101 tarte tatin 548
chicory dates trifle 530
braised 393 and chocolate sponge pudding 549 vacherin with strawberries 528–9
shallow-fried 393 and tamarind relish 586 vanilla bavarois 524
chocolate desserts see also ice cream and sorbets vanilla ice cream 532
bavarois 524 apple charlotte 538–9 vanilla panna cotta with stewed rhubarb
éclairs 461–2 apple crumble tartlets 547 526
and fig/date sponge pudding 549 apple fritters 539 vanilla soufflé 552–3
fondant 544–5 baked Alaska 556 vanilla sponge pudding 549
ganache 480 baked apples 537 zabaglione 522
gâteau 494 baked blueberry cheesecake 531–2 dough products
genoise sponge 494 bavarois 524 bagels 426
ice cream 532 bread and butter pudding 546 Bath buns 432
mousse 525 butterscotch sauce 561 blueberry baba 436
sauce 560–1 cabinet pudding 543 bun dough 430–1
sorbet 535 caramel sauce 562 bun wash 430
soufflé 553 chocolate and fig/date sponge pudding 549 cholla bread 427
sponge pudding 549 chocolate bavarois 524 doughnuts 433
chutneys, pickles and relishes chocolate fondant 544–5 focaccia 427–8
beetroot relish 586 chocolate mousse 525 hot cross buns 432
date and tamarind relish 586 chocolate sauce 560–1 marignans chantilly 436
mixed pickle 587 chocolate soufflé 553 naan bread 429
pickled red cabbage 587 chocolate sponge pudding 549 olive bread 423–4
tomato chutney 209, 585 Christmas pudding 551 Parmesan rolls 421
clams coffee bavarois 524 pizza 428–9
chowder 82 crème anglaise 558 red onion and sage rolls 421
coconut crème brûlée 521 rye bread 424–5
cakes 497 crème caramel 520 savarin dough 434–5
cod custard 559 savarin syrup 434
baked with a herb crust 187 diplomat pudding 543 savarin with fruit 436
boulangère 189 fresh egg custard 558 scones 497
poached on the bone 181 fresh fruit salad 518 seeded bread rolls 420
coffee fruit compote/poached fruit 519 soda bread 425
bavarois 524 fruit coulis 559 sundried tomato bread 422
gâteau 493 fruit fool 527 Swiss buns 433
ice cream 532 fruit mousse 523 wholemeal bread 419
corn on the cob 365 fruit soufflé 553 duck
courgettes ginger sponge pudding 549 breast, with cherries 327
deep-fried 399 golden syrup pudding 550 confit leg, with red cabbage and green
fettuccine, with chopped basil and golden syrup sponge pudding 549 beans 328
balsamic vinegar 400 griottines clafoutis 540 cranberry and orange dressing for 330
flowers 400–1 lemon curd flourless soufflé 555 roasted 329
ratatouille 406 lemon or lime bavarois 524 sage and onion dressing for 330

626

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Index of recipes

eggs gnocchi vanilla ice cream 532–3


Benedict 110–11 Parmesan gnocchi, with tomato sauce 155 icings and fillings
egg custard tart 452 potato gnocchi 153–4 apricot glaze 501
en cocotte 111 goose boiled buttercream 478
feta, mint, lentil and pistachio omelette 116 roasted 331 buttercream 477
fried 109 grains chantilly cream 477
hard-boiled 109 couscous fritters, with feta 133 crème anglaise 558
omelette 114 couscous salad, with roasted vegetables crème chiboust 476
quiche Lorraine 448 and mixed herbs 601 crème diplomat 476
Scotch eggs 112–13 couscous, with meat and vegetables 132 crème mousseline 476
scrambled 110 polenta and lentil cakes, with roasted crème patissière 476
soft-boiled, in the shell 108 vegetables and cucumber and yoghurt fruit coulis 559
soft-boiled, out of the shell 108 sauce 131 ganache 480
Spanish omelette 115 polenta, with roasted Mediterranean royal icing 502
sur le plat 112 vegetables 130 rum/brandy cream or butter 562
fennel grouse water icing 501
braised, with black olives and cardamom 359 roasted 335 kedgeree 186
fish see also individual types guinea fowl kidneys
Bretonne 200 suprêmes, with pepper and basil coulis 331–2 lamb’s, devilled 290
deep-fried in batter 195 haddock lamb’s, grilled 290
deep-fried in breadcrumbs 195 grilled fillets 176 kohlrabi 394
Doria 200 smoked and poached 180 lamb and mutton
fillets in white wine sauce 183 hake best end, with breadcrumbs and parsley 250
fillets mornay 184 baked with tomatoes and olives 188 brown stew 246
fillets, shallow-fried 198 halibut chump chops, braised 243
fillets Véronique 185 poached on the bone 181 cutlets, grilled 236
flat white fish délice, Dugléré 182 steamed, with lime and fennel 193 hot pot 245
frying batters for 194 hare Irish stew 247
Grenobloise 200 saddle, German-style 338 jus 58–9
meunière 200 herbs kebabs 237
pie 190 basil oil 583 kidneys, devilled 290
salad 607 green sauce 579 kidneys, grilled 290
steamed, with garlic, spring onions and oil 582 leg, roasted with mint, lemon and cumin 248
ginger 192 parsley sauce 85 loin chops, chump chops or noisettes,
stock 57 sage and onion dressing for duck 330 grilled 239
tartare sauce 579 salsa verde 101 mixed grill 236–7
Thai fishcakes 205 herring rosettes, with baby ratatouille 240
fruit see also individual types soused 608–9 rosettes, with thyme and blueberries 239
bavarois 524 hors d’ouvres and snacks see also salads saddle, with rosemary mash 249
coulis 559 bacon, spinach and mushroom terrine 616 samosas 241–2
fool 527 bagels 618 satay 238
fresh fruit salad 518 canapés 619 shanks, braised 244
mincemeat 458 dressed crab 605 shepherd’s pie 253
mousse 523 liver pâté 615 shoulder, pot roasted, with gratin
pie 448–9 oysters 604–5 forcemeat 252
poached/compote 519 potted shrimps 610 shoulder, slow-cooked, with potatoes
slice 473 sandwiches 617 boulangère 251
steamed fruit puddings 464–5 shellfish cocktail 609 sweetbreads, shallow-fried 293
tarts, tartlets or barquettes 452–3 smoked salmon 604 valentine steaks, with fresh pea hummus 240
fruits of the forest wraps 618 leeks
sorbet 535 ice cream and sorbets braised, with garlic and olives 359–60
game apple sorbet 535 and potato soup, chilled 76
grouse, roasted 335 chocolate ice cream 532 lemons
hare, German-style saddle 338 chocolate sorbet 535 bavarois 524
partridge, roasted 334 coffee ice cream 532 drizzle cake 500
pigeon pot au feu 333–4 fruits of the forest sorbet 535 lemon curd flourless soufflé 555
quail, pot-roasted, with roast carrots and lemon curd ice cream 533 lemon curd ice cream 533
mashed potato 336 peach Melba 534 meringue pie 456
rabbit, braised, with olives and tomatoes 337 pear belle Hélène 534 oil 583
ginger rum and raisin ice cream 532 sponge pudding 549
sponge pudding 549 strawberry ice cream 532 tart 455

627

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

limes walnut 585 frangipane 479


bavarois 524 okra fruit pie 448–9
chilli lime dipping sauce 207 in cream sauce 366 fruit slice 473
and mascarpone cheesecake 531 curry 366–7 fruit tarts, tartlets or barquettes 452–3
soufflé frappe 529–30 olives ganache 480
liver bread 423–4 gâteau Paris-Brest 462
calf’s liver and bacon 289 tapenade 588–9 gâteau pithiviers 470
pâté 615 onions Italian meringue 480–1
lobster brown onion sauce 92 lemon meringue pie 456
beignets, with tomato chutney 209 brown onion soup 60–1 lemon tart 455
mackerel button, caramelised 358 mince pies 458
grilled whole, with tomatoes, basil and French-fried 357–8 palmiers 471
shaved fennel 177–8 fried 357 pastry cream 476
kedgeree 186 red onion and sage rolls 421 pear and almond tart 456–7
soused 608–9 oranges pear jalousie 472
mangetout 363 bavarois 524 profiteroles and chocolate sauce 461
mangoes sponge pudding 549 puff paste, French method 465–7
soufflé 554 oxtail puff pastry cases 468
marrow 398 braised 292–3 puff pastry slice 472–3
provençale 398 oysters 604–5 quiche Lorraine 448
meat see also offal; individual types paella 313–14 raised pork pie 613
cured in brine 288 parsnips 355 rough puff paste 467–8
meringues partridge sausage rolls 469
Italian 480–1 roasted 334 short paste 446–7
lemon meringue pie 456 pasta steak pie 268–9
meringue 528 lasagne 150–1 steamed fruit puddings 464–5
Swiss 481 macaroni cheese 144 stock syrup 482
vacherin with strawberries and cream 528 penne arrabiata 143 suet paste 464
mint ravioli 145–6 sweet paste 450–1
oil 584 ravioli of squash and spinach, with wild Swiss meringue 481
sauce 581 mushroom sauce 147 treacle tart 449
mushrooms ricotta and spinach cannelloni, with tomato veal and ham pie 614
Greek-style 598 and basil sauce 148–9 peaches
grilled 362 spaghetti bolognaise 142–3 Melba 534
sauce 87 spaghetti with tomato sauce 141 pears
soup 67 spinach fettuccine with ham and cream and almond tart 456–7
stuffed 362 cheese 144–5 belle Hélène 534
wild mushroom sauce 147 tagliatelle carbonara 145 jalousie 472
mussels vegetarian lasagne 152 peas
in white wine sauce 206 pastry products French-style 364–5
nuts apple flan 454 green pea, cream soup 65
Bakewell tart 457 apple purée 482 velouté 80
frangipane 479 apple turnovers 475 pepper
gâteau pithiviers 470 Bakewell tart 457 sauce 94
marzipan 502 boiled buttercream 478 peppers
praline 462, 503 buttercream 477 red pepper and tomato soup 78
walnut oil 585 chantilly cream 477 stuffed 403
offal cheese straws 469 pickles see chutneys
calf’s cheeks, braised, with vegetables 291 chicken pie 323–4 pigeon
calf’s liver and bacon 289 chocolate éclairs 461–2 pot au feu 333–4
lamb’s kidneys, devilled 290 choux buns 460 plaice
lamb’s kidneys, grilled 290 choux paste 459–60 goujons 196
lamb’s sweetbreads, shallow-fried 293 choux paste fritters 463 grilled fillets 176
liver pâté 615 cream horns 474 polenta
oxtail, braised 292–3 crème chiboust 476 and lentil cakes, with roasted vegetables
oils, flavoured crème diplomat 476 and cucumber and yoghurt sauce 131
basil 583 crème mousseline 476 with roasted Mediterranean vegetables 130
herb 582 crème patissière 476 pork see also bacon
lemon 583 Eccles cakes 475 belly, roasted, with shallots and champ
mint 584 egg custard tart 452 potatoes 285
vanilla 584 flan cases 451 belly, slow-roasted 286

628

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Index of recipes

escalope, with calvados sauce 279 red cabbage sardines


fillet, stir-fried 281 braised 387 with tapenade 179
gratin forcemeat 252 pickled 587 sauces, savoury
ham hock, with sauerkraut and lentils 281–3 red mullet Andalusian 578
leg, roasted 284 nage, with baby leeks 203 aurora 88–9
raised pork pie 613 rice avocado and coriander salsa 102
sage and onion dressing for 286 braised/pilaff 125 balsamic vinegar and olive oil dressing 576
sausage rolls 469 braised, with mushrooms 126 basil oil 583
spare ribs in barbecue sauce 287 Indian-style/pilau 127 béarnaise 100
sweet and sour 280 paella 313–14 béchamel 84
potatoes plain boiled 124 beef jus 94–5
baked in their jackets 371 pudding 541 beetroot relish 586
boulangères 379 pudding, baked 542 beurre fondu 102
chateau 372 risotto, with Parmesan 126–7 bread 335
cocotte 377 salad 600–1 brown onion 92
duchess 370 steamed 124 celeriac remoulade 589
fondant 378 vegetable biryani 410 chasseur 89
fried or chipped 373 salad dressings cheese 85
mashed 369 balsamic vinegar and olive oil 576 chilli lime dipping sauce 207
new 368 mayonnaise 577–8 curry 411
new potato rissoles 376 thousand island sauce 580 devilled 90
noisette 377 tomato vinaigrette 577 diable 90
Parmentier 376 vinaigrette 576 green or herb 579
parsley 367 salads gribiche 104
plain boiled 367 avocado and bacon 603 herb oil 582
roasted 372 beetroot 594 hollandaise 99–100
salad 596 brown rice 600–1 horseradish 103
samosas 241–2 Caesar 602 Italian 93
sauté 374 chicken 612 ivory 88
sauté, with onions 375 coleslaw 595 jus lié 97
savoury 379 couscous, with roasted vegetables and jus rôti 96–7
soup 74 mixed herbs 601 lemon oil 583
steamed in their jackets 371 cucumber 592 lyonnaise 92
and watercress soup 75 fish 607 Madeira 92
prawns French 591 mayonnaise 577–8
bisque 83 French bean 595 melted butter sauce 102
with chilli and garlic 210 green 591 mint 581
pulses haricot bean 598 mint oil 584
bean goulash 128 lentil and goats’ cheese 599 mornay 85
lentils 283 mixed 590 mushroom 87
lentil and goats’ cheese salad 599 mushrooms Greek-style 598 parsley 85
Mexican bean pot 129 Niçoise 603 pepper 94
polenta and lentil cakes, with roasted potato 596 piquant 91
vegetables and cucumber and yoghurt radishes 592 red wine jus 96
sauce 131 rice 600 remoulade 580
red lentil soup 73 Russian 597 roast chicken jus 95
soup, with croutons 68 salad leaves 590 roast gravy 96–7, 270
pumpkin three-bean 599 Robert 90–1
roasted, with cinnamon and ginger 402 tomato 593 salsa verde 101
velouté 80 tomato and cucumber 594 shellfish cocktail 581–2
quail vegetable 597 soubise 86
pot-roasted, with roast carrots and mashed Waldorf 596–7 suprême 86–7
potato 336 salmon sweet and sour 103
rabbit baked with sea vegetable salad 404 tapenade 588–9
braised, with olives and tomatoes 337 cold presentation 606–7 tartare 579
radishes en papillote, with crushed new potatoes thickened gravy 97
salad 592 191–2 thousand island 580
raspberries fishcakes 196–7 tomato 98
bavarois 524 poached 180 tomato and cucumber salsa 101
parfait 536 smoked 604 tomato vinaigrette 577
raspberry buns 497 salsify 356 vinaigrette 576

629

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

walnut oil 585 clam chowder 82 and cucumber salsa 101


white 84 consommé 81–2 gazpacho 76–7
wild mushroom 147 gazpacho 76–7 salad 593
sauces, sweet green pea, cream of 65 sauce 98
apple 98 leek and potato, chilled 76 soup 77
apple purée 482 minestrone 62–3 soup, cream of 66
apricot glaze 501 mushroom 67 stuffed 396
boiled buttercream 478 pea velouté 80 sundried tomato bread 422
buttercream 477 potato 74 vinaigrette 577
butterscotch 561 potato and watercress 75 tuna
caramel 562 prawn bisque 83 grilled with rocket and fennel salad 176–7
chantilly cream 477 pulse, with croutons 68 turbot
chocolate 560–1 pumpkin velouté 80 poached on the bone 181
cranberry 99 red lentil 73 turkey
crème anglaise 558 red pepper and tomato 78 escalopes 326
crème chiboust 476 Scotch broth 64 roasted 326–7
crème diplomat 476 spinach and celery, cream of 71 turnip
crème mousseline 476 tomato 77 buttered 355
crème patissière 476 tomato, cream of 66 purée 356
custard 559 vegetable, cream of 64–5 vanilla
fresh egg custard 558 vegetable purée 72 bavarois 524
fruit coulis 559 spinach ice cream 532–3
ganache 480 and celery, cream soup 71 oil 584
royal icing 502 leaf 385 panna cotta with stewed rhubarb 526
rum/brandy cream or butter 562 purée 386 soufflé 552–3
sabayon 557 ricotta and spinach cannelloni, with tomato sponge pudding 549
sticky toffee 543 and basil sauce 148–9 veal
stock syrup 482 spring greens 385 cheeks, braised, with vegetables 291
strawberry 560 squash escalopes 273
vanilla oil 584 butternut squash, roasted 401 escalopes, breadcrumbed with ham and
water icing 501 butternut squash soup 78–9 cheese 274
scallops ravioli of squash and spinach, with wild escalopes Holstein 273
with bacon 211 mushroom sauce 147 escalopes Viennoise 273
sea bass roasted, with cinnamon and ginger 402 escalopes, with Parma ham and mozzarella
ceviche 608 stocks cheese 275
sea vegetables brown 56 escalopes, with spaghetti and tomato
with baked salmon 404 brown vegetable 58 sauce 273
and noodle salad, Japanese-style 405 fish 57 fricassée 276–7
seitan lamb jus 58–9 and ham pie 614
and Chinese vegetable stir-fry 412–13 reduced veal 59 liver and bacon 289
shellfish see also individual types white 55 osso buco 278
cocktail 609 white chicken 56–7 reduced stock 59
cocktail sauce 581–2 white fungi 55 shin, braised 278
fruits de mer 611 white vegetable 55 veal and ham pie 614
paella 313–14 strawberries vegetables see also salads; individual types
shrimps bavarois 524 curry with rice pilaff 411
potted 610 fresh cream and strawberry gâteau 492 mixed 405
skate ice cream 532 ratatouille 406
pan-fried, with capers and beurre noir 202 sauce 560 ratatouille pancakes with cheese sauce 407
sole vacherin with 528–9 roasted 407–8
grilled fillets 176 swede samosas 241–2
grilled whole, with traditional buttered 355 stock, brown 58
accompaniments 178 purée 356 stock, white 55
pan-fried, with rocket and broad beans 201 sweetbreads tempura 408–9
pan-fried, with shrimp and caper dressing 199 lamb’s, shallow-fried 293 vegetarian dishes
soups tofu cheese fritters 413
asparagus 70 crispy deep-fried 412 cheese soufflé 414
brown onion 60–1 tomatoes lasagne 152
butternut squash 78–9 chutney 209, 585 seitan and Chinese vegetable stir-fry 412–13
carrot and butterbean 79 concassé 394–5 tofu, crispy deep-fried 412
chicken 69 and cucumber salad 594

630

20 PracticalCookeryL2NVQs Index.indd 630 12/03/2015 14:37


Index

Index
accidents blond roux 53 Certificate of Satisfaction 38
causes 1–2 blue peas (marrowfat) 120 chapatti 416
first aid 3–6 blue plasters 22 chateaubriand 223
reporting 4–5, 43 boiling chemicals
aduki beans 119 fish 166–8 food contamination 30
agar-agar 516 pastry products 443 health and safety 4
agnolini 136 sponge cake method 485 chewing gum 21
alcohol 53, 565 bone marrow 234 chicken
allergens 567–8 bookmaker sandwiches 606 core temperatures 216
allergies 30, 567–8 see also food intolerance borlotti beans 119 cuts and joints 298
allergy information 28, 30–1 bouchées 468 nutritional value 307
amuse-bouche 51 bouillabaisse 50 preparation 297–301, 303
anaphylaxis 568 bouillon 48 quality points 297
ants 26 braising/stewing types 296
appraisals 16 fish 167–8 chickpeas 120
aprons 20 game 306–7 chicory 590
arborio rice 117 meat 216, 218, 222, 226–7 cholesterol 567
aromats 50 vegetables 347–8 chopping boards 12, 32, 43
arrowroot 54 bran 117, 121 choux pastry 438
atomised glucose 515 bread 415, 417 see also dough products chowder 50
Bacillus cereus 29, 118 bream 159 churning 515
bacon brill 159 chutneys 574
cuts and joints 231 brioche 416 clams 170
quality points 230 broad beans 119 clarified butter 52
baking broth 49–50 cleaning
fish 167–8 brown roux 53 clean as you go 12
potatoes 349 brown sauce 52 cloths 24–5
baking blind 451 brunoise 343, 345 dishwashing 25
baking powder 440, 484 buckwheat 121 importance 32
ballotines 301 bulb vegetables 340 knives 44
barbecue cooking 224–5 bulk fermentation time 417 procedures 25
barding 305 buns 416 products 24
barley 121 burns 22 refrigerators 27
barracuda 168 butter 438–9 schedules 24
beans 119 butter beans 119 Clostridium botulinum 29
béchamel 52 butter sauces 52–3 Clostridium perfringens 29
beef cakes and sponges clothing 1, 12, 19–20
cooking degrees 225 batters and whisked sponges 485–6 clotted cream 442
core temperatures 216, 225 convenience products 487 club sandwiches 606
cuts, joints and portions 221–2 faults 485–6, 495, 500 coating 161, 488
nutritional value 307 finishing and presentation 488 cockles 170, 173
offal 232–4 methods 483–6 cod 159, 168
preparation 222–5 preparation 486–7 coeliac disease 122, 418, 567
quality points 221 raising agents 484 cold food presentation
best-before dates 28–9 storage 488–9 preparation 572–3
beurre fondu 52 calcium phosphate 440, 484 quality points 572
beurre manié 53 calories 565 storage 573
beurre noisette 52 Campylobacter 30 temperature control 573
bicarbonate of soda 440, 484 candling 106 types 573–5
birds 26 canned products 28, 160, 215 coley 168
biscuits 487 cannelini beans 119 collagen 215–16
finishing and presentation 488 cannelloni 136 colour coding 32
storage 488–9 capon 296 compound butter sauces 53
bisque 50 cappaletti 136 concassé 343, 347
black beans 119 carbohydrates 563, 565 consommé 49–50
black-eyed beans 119 carob gum 516 contact time 24
blanching 347 carrageenan 516 continental roux 53
blending 51, 443, 486–7 CCTV 9 Control of Substances Hazardous to Health
blinis 416 ceilings 23 (COSHH) Regulations 4

631

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Practical Cookery 13th edition

convenience products dextrose 515 edible gelatine 516


cakes, biscuits and sponges 487 dhal lentils 120 eel 159
cold foods 573 diabetes 567 EFK 26
dough products 416 diet and nutrition eggs
potatoes 347 allergies and intolerances 30, 122, 418, allergies/intolerance 418
shellfish 174 567–8 egg custard 513–14
stocks 49 bread 415 egg wash 444
storage 28 calorie intake balance 565 egg whites 512, 528
Cooksafe 37 carbohydrates/starches 563, 565 egg yolks 53, 105, 512, 515
core temperatures 34, 216, 225, 296 chefs’ role in 565–6 food safety 106–7
cornflour 54 dairy products 563 healthy options 107
cornmeal 121 desserts 517 nutritional value 512
coulis 54 eatwell plate 563–4 quality points 106, 512
court bouillon 606 eggs 512 storage 28, 107
couscous 122 fats 565 structure 105
crab 170, 172–3 fibre 565 temperature control 107
cracked wheat 122 fish 169, 563 thickening with 53
crawfish 172 five Cs 568 uses 105, 441, 485, 512
crayfish 170 food labels 566 elastin 214–16
cream 441–2, 444, 515 fruit and vegetables 340–1, 563 electric shock 3, 5
cream of tartar 440, 484 grains 122 electrical equipment 3
cream soups 49–50 health impacts 563 electricity 3–4
creaming 443, 486 healthier cooking methods 566 emergency procedures 6, 12
crème anglaise 513 healthy eating 51, 563–4 emperor bream 168
crépinettes 234 meat 563 employees
cross-contamination minerals 565 health and safety responsibilities 1
causes 31 protein 565 references 9
colour coding 32 salt 513, 565 employers
control methods 31–2 special diets 566–7 food safety management responsibilities 37
cooking and reheating 32–3 substitute ingredients 566 health and safety responsibilities 1–2
defrosting 32 sugars 563 en papillote 192
kitchen layout 22 vitamins 565 endive 590
crustaceans 169 dishwashing 25 endosperm 117, 121
custard 513–14 disinfectants 24 enriched dough 416
customers’ property 9 docking 444 Environmental Health Officers 37–8
cuts and grazes 22 Dolcelatte 138 enzymes 214
cutting 444 doors 23 EpiPen 568
dairy products dorade 168 espagnole sauce 52
lactose intolerance 418 dough products evacuation procedures 7–8
storage 28, 442 convenience products 416 fats 438–9, 565
types 441–2 dough types 416 faxes 15
Dairy Products (Hygiene) Regulations 1995 514 faults 417 feedback 16
darnes 164 fermentation 415–16 fermentation 415–16
deep frying finishing and presentation 418 fibre 565
fish 166, 168 ingredients for 415 filleting 161–3
health and safety 347, 433 quality points 416–17 filling 444, 488
vegetables 347 storage 417 filo pastry 443
defrosting 32 drainage 23 fines 38
délice 164 dredging 488 fingernails 20
deliveries 26–7 dressings 574 fire-fighting equipment 8
demersal fish 157 dry brining 575 fire precautions 7–8
demi-glace 52 Dublin Bay prawns 170 fire safety 7–8
desserts duck and duckling 216, 303–4 fire triangle 7
egg custard-based 513–14 due diligence 37 first aid 3–6, 22
faults 525, 539, 553 dusting 444, 488 first in – first out 28
finishing and presentation 517 Dutch brown beans 119 fish
fruit-based 516 E.coli 0157 30 cold food presentation 574
healthy eating 517 e-mail 15 cooking 165–7
ice creams and sorbets 514–16 eating 21 core temperatures 165
ingredients for 512–13 eatwell plate 563–4 cuts 164
detergents 24 écrevisse 170 food safety 161

632

20 PracticalCookeryL2NVQs Index.indd 632 12/03/2015 14:37


Index

healthy eating 169 unsafe behaviour 21 gurnard 159


nutritional value 169 waste disposal 12, 25 gutting 161
portion control 165 food spoilage 31 HACCP 35–6
preparation 161–4 Food Standards Agency 38 haddock 159, 168
preservation 158, 160 food sustainability 13 hair 20
quality points 158 footwear 19–20 hake 159, 168
seasonality 158–9 forcemeat 234 halal meat 215
storage 28, 159–60 four-stage cleaning processes 25 halibut 159, 168
sustainability 158 frozen foods ham 574
types 157–8 cakes and sponges 489 handwashing 21, 32
five Cs 568 defrosting 32 hare 304, 306
flageolet beans 119 fish 158, 160 haricot beans 119
flat fish 157 meat 215 hats 20
flies 26 offal 231 Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points (HACCP)
floors 2, 23 pastry products 443 35–6
flour 54, 122, 438 storage 28 hazardous substances 4
flour batter method 443, 486–7 temperature control 27, 34 hazards 2–3
flowers 340 fruits 340 health and safety
foaming method 485, 487 quality points 516 chemicals 4
folding 443 storage 28, 517 deep frying 347, 433
food contamination frutarian diets 567 fire safety 7
allergenic 30–1 frying 166 following instructions 11–12
biological 29–30 ful mesdames beans 119 knives 43–5
chemical 30 game lifting hot items 6
control methods 31, 44–5 cooking 305 reporting illness 1, 4–6, 22
danger zone 34 feathered 303–6 Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 1
food spoilage 31 furred 303–4, 306–8 Health and Safety Executive (HSE) 1
natural poisons 31 preparation 305 Health and Safety Information for Employees
physical contaminants 30 seasonality 304 Regulations 1989 2
food intolerance 30 storage and hanging 305 Health and Safety (First Aid) Regulations 1981 6
gluten 122, 418, 567 gammon 231, 574 hearts 233
lactose 418, 567 garnishes 51, 517 herring 159, 168
food labelling gas 4 Hindu diets 567
allergy information 28, 30–1, 567–8 gazpacho 50 hogget 217
best-before/use-by dates 28–9 gelatine 516 holding for service
nutritional information 566 gelling agents 516 eggs 107
food poisoning 19 genoise sponges 486 temperature control 28, 33
bacterial illness 29–30 germ 117, 121 homogenisation 441–2, 514
food-borne illness 30 glazes 49 honey 439, 515
food preservation 31 glazing 444 hors d’oeuvres 573
food safety gloves, disposable 20 huss 168
cleaning 24–5 glucono delta-lactone 440 Hygiene Emergency Prohibition Notices 38
clothing 19–20 glucose 439, 515 Hygiene Emergency Prohibition Orders 38
damaged surfaces 24 gluten 438 Hygiene Improvement Notices 38
dishwashing 25 gluten intolerance 122, 418, 567 Hygiene Prohibition Orders 38
due diligence 37 goose and gosling 303–4 hypothermia 5
environmental health checks 37–8 Gorgonzola 138 Ice Cream (Heat Treatment) Regulations 514
five Cs 568 goujons 164 ice creams and sorbets 512, 514–16
food deliveries 26–7 grains icing 444
handwashing 21 preparation and cooking 123 illness
hazards 29–31 quality points 123 medical diets 567
high-risk foods 28 storage 123 nutrition impacts 563
importance 19 structure 121, 135 reporting 1, 4–6, 22
kitchen layout 22–3 types 121–3 injuries 1
knives 44–5 gravy 52 reporting 4–5, 43
management systems 34–8 grilling treatment 3–6, 22
non-compliance penalties 38 fish 166, 168 insecticides 26
personal hygiene 19–20 game 307–8 instructions 11–12
pest control 25–6 meat 216, 218, 222, 228–9, 231 inverted sugar 439, 515
temperature control 27, 32–4 grouse 304–5 isomalt 440
training 37 guar gum 516 jackets 20

633

20 PracticalCookeryL2NVQs Index.indd 633 12/03/2015 14:37


Practical Cookery 13th edition

japonica rice 118 mallard 304 oily fish 157, 168


jardinière 343, 346 Management of Health and Safety at Work ovo-vegetarianism 567
jewellery 20 Regulations 1999 8 oxtail 234
Jewish diets 215, 567 manual handling 6–7 oysters 170, 174
John Dory 159, 168 marbling 214 papin 214
julienne 343–4 margarine 439 Parmesan 138
kibbled wheat 122 marinating 161, 216 partridge 304–5
kidney beans 31, 119, 120, 228 marlin 168 passing 51
kidneys 218, 222, 232–3 mashing 349 pasta
kitchen cloths 24–5 mayonnaise 577 fillings 146
kitchen equipment meat see also individual types ingredients for 136, 146
cold food presentation 572 bones 216, 227, 234 nutritional value 139
cross-contamination 32 cold presentation 574 preparing and cooking 136–8
following instructions 11 cooked and cured 574 quality points 136
hygiene 12, 23 cooking 215–17 sauces and accompaniments 138
knives 41–5 core temperatures 216 storage 138
kitchen premises crépinettes 234 types 135–6
hand washing facilities 22 forcemeat 234 uses 135
layout 22 kosher and halal 215 pasteurisation 441, 514
staff facilities 22 preparation 215 pastry cream 513
surfaces and equipment 12, 23 preservation 215 pastry products
workflows 22–3 quality points 214–15 convenience products 443
kneading 443 storage 27, 215 cooking 444
knives structure 214 faults 447, 453, 459, 467
cleaning 44 medical diets 567 finishing and presentation 444
safe handling 43–4 melting method 485 ingredients for 437–42
sharpening 44 meringues 529 paste types 438
types and uses 41–2 mice 26 preparation 443–4
kosher meat 215 milk 441 storage and food safety 443
lactic acid 440 millet 122 PAT testing 3
lacto-vegetarianism 567 minerals 565 pâtés 573
lactose intolerance 418, 567 mirepoix 50, 343 pathogenic bacteria 29–30
lamb and mutton molluscs 169 paupiette 164
core temperatures 216 monkfish 159, 168 paysanne 343, 347
cuts and joints 217–19 monte au beurre 54 pearl barley 121
nutritional value 307 moorhen 304 peas 120
offal 232–4 moulds 31 pecorino 138
preparation 218–20 mouth 21 pectin 516
quality points 217 mozzarella 138 pelagic fish 157
roast lamb, carving and serving 221 mullet, grey 159 personal hygiene
uses 217–18 mullet, red 159, 168 hand washing 21, 32
laminated dough 416 mung beans 119 importance 1, 12, 19, 32
lamination 443 Muslim diets 215, 567 unsafe behaviour 21
langoustines 170–1 mussels 170, 173 personal protective equipment (PPE) 1, 20
leafy vegetables 340–2 mustard and cress 590 pest control 25–6
learning plans 16 mutton see lamb and mutton pesticides 26
lentils 120 mycoprotein 350 pets 26
lettuce 590 mycotoxins 31 pheasant 304–5
lighting 9, 23 myoglobin 214 pickles 575
listening 15 naan bread 416 pickling 160, 575
Listeria 30 nage 48 pictorial communication 15
liver 228, 232 non-verbal gestures 15 pies 574
lobster 170–2 noodles 138–9 pigeon 304–6
low-cholesterol diets 567 Norovirus 30 pigs’ trotters 234
low-fat diets 567 nose 21 pinto beans 119
low-residue diets 567 nut allergies 418, 567 piped biscuits 488, 504
low-salt diets 567 oats 122 piping 444, 488, 504
macédoine 343, 346 obesity 563 pitta bread 416
mackerel 159, 168 offal 231 pizza 416, 429
Maillard reaction 217 cooking 218, 222, 228 plaice 159, 168
maize 121 uses 234 poaching 166, 168

634

20 PracticalCookeryL2NVQs Index.indd 634 12/03/2015 14:37


Index

pod vegetables 340 Reporting of Injuries, Diseases and Dangerous meat 216, 218, 222, 226, 228–9
polenta 121–2 Occurrences (RIDDOR) Regulations 2013 4–5 vegetables 347
pollock 168 rice shaping 444
pork food safety 29, 118 shark 168
core temperatures 216 preparing and cooking 118–19 shellfish
cuts and joints 228–9 quality points 118 cold food presentation 574
nutritional value 307 storage 119 preparation and cooking 169–74
offal 232–4 structure 117 quality points 169–74
preparation 230 varieties and products 117–18 seasonality 170
quality points 228 ricotta 138 storage 169
potage 50 right to search clauses 9 types 169–74
potatoes 341–2, 347–9 ripening 515 short pastry 438
poultry 295 see also individual types risk assessments 2, 7 shortening 439
core temperatures 216, 296 risotto 119 shrimps 170
food safety 296 roasting Sikh diets 567
preparation 296 fish 167–8 silverside 222
storage 27, 296 game 305–8 simmering 48
poussin 296 meat 218–19, 222, 226–8 six-stage cleaning process 25
prawns 170 potatoes 349 skate 159, 168
professional appearance 1 rocket 590 skimming 48
professional development rolling 444 skinning 161
feedback 16 root vegetables 340–2 slips, trips and falls 2–3
improving knowledge and skills 15 round fish 157 smoking
learning/progression plans 16 roux 53 cigarettes 21
performance appraisals 16 rubbing in 443, 487 cold/hot smoking 160
progression plans 16 rye 123 smorgasbord 606
prohibition signs 3 sabayon 54 snipe 304
protein 565 Safe Catering 37 soissons (beans) 119
provenance 342 Safer Food Better Business 37 sole, Dover/lemon 159, 168
proving 415 safety signs 3 soups
puff pastry 438, 443 salads 573, 590 healthy eating options 51
pulses 68 salmon 159, 168 preparation methods 50–1
preparation and cooking 120 Salmonella 29, 106 quality points 50
storage 120 salsa 52 thickening 49
types 119–20 salt 415, 513, 565 types 49–50
purée salting 160, 215 sour milk 440
sauces 52 sandwiches 574, 617 sous-vide 166
soups 49–51 sanitisers 24 soy beans 119
puy lentils 120 sardines 159, 168 soya products 350
quail 304, 306 sauce flour 54 spatchcock 299
quails’ eggs 106 sauces speciality dough 416
quantity controls 13 butter sauces 52–3 spelt 123
quinoa 122 quality points 53 split peas 120
rabbit 304, 306 thickening 53–4 spores 29–30
raising agents 440–1 types 52–3 spreading 488
Rastafarian diets 567 savarin 416 sprinkling 488
rats 26 scaling 161 squid 172
ravioli 136 scallops 170, 173–4 stabilisers 515–16
raviolini 136 scampi 170 standard operational procedures 12
recipes, following 11 Scores on the Doors 38 Staphylococcus aureus 29
red snapper 168 sea bass 159, 168 steaming 167, 347
reducing 49 sea trout 159 steels 44
refrigerators security procedures 8–9 stem vegetables 340
multi-use 27 seeds 340 sterilisation 441
temperature control 33–4 seitan 350 stewing see braising
Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005 7 self-raising flour 438 stir-frying 166, 168, 347
reheated foods 32–3 semolina 122, 438 stock rotation 28–9
relaxing 444 sesame seeds 418 stocks 48–9
religious diets 567 shallow frying storage
relishes 574 fish 166, 168 cakes, biscuits and sponges 488–9
game 307 canned products 28

635

20 PracticalCookeryL2NVQs Index.indd 635 12/03/2015 14:37


Practical Cookery 13th edition

cold foods 573 danger zone 34 food safety 32


convenience foods 28 eggs 107 nutritional value 340–1
cooked foods 28 fish 165 preparation 342–7
dairy products 28, 107, 442 food deliveries 27 quality points 341–2
dough products 417 frozen foods 27, 32–4 seasonality 341–2
dry goods 28, 119–20, 123, 138–9, 438 holding for service 28, 33 storage 342
eggs 28, 107 ice cream and sorbets 514 types 340–1
fish 28, 159–60 meat 216, 225 vegetarian diets 350, 567
frozen foods 28, 34 poultry 296 velouté 49–50, 52
fruit and vegetables 28, 517 refrigeration equipment 33–4 venison 304, 306–8
game 305 reheated foods 32–3 cooking 307–8
hazardous substances/chemicals 4 soup 51 cuts and joints 306–7
labelling 27–9 temperature probes 27, 33 nutritional value 307
meat 215 terrines 573 quality points 307
meat, raw 27, 296 textured vegetable protein 350 ventilation 22
multi-use refrigerators 27, 32, 34 thickening 49, 53–4 vichysoisse 50
pastry products 443 toasted sandwiches 606 vitamins 565
poultry 27, 296 tofu 350 vol-au-vents 468
preparation of food for 27 tongues 234 walls 23
shellfish 169 topside 222 warning signs 3–4
stock rotation 28–9 tortellini 136 wasps 26
stocks 49 tortelloni 136 waste disposal 12, 25
temperature controls 34 tournedos 223 waste management 12–13, 25
vegetables 342 toxins 30–1 water vapour 440, 486
straining 49, 51 training 37 watercress 590
suckling pig 228 treacle 439 weevils 26
sucrose 439, 515 tripe 234 wet brining 575
suet 234 tronçons 164 wheat 122, 135
suet pastry 438 trousers 20 wheat flour 122, 438
sugar 439–40, 512 trout 159, 168 whelks 174
sugar batter method 485, 487 trussing 297 white fish 157, 168
suprêmes 164, 300 tubers 340–2, 347–9 white roux 53
sweet pastry 438 tuna 159, 168 whitebait 168
sweetbreads 233 turbot 159, 168 whiting 159
swordfish 168 turkey 216, 301–3 wild boar 308
syrup 439 UHT 441–2 windows 23
tarte tatin 529 use-by dates 28–9 winkles 174
teal 304 vacherin 529 woodcock 304
team working veal workflows 22–3
communication 13–15 core temperatures 216 working practices
helping others 13 cuts and joints 225–6 asking for help 13
importance 11, 13 offal 233–4 efficiency 12
negative and positive behaviour 14 preparation 226–8 following instructions 11–12
relationship problems 14 quality points 225 time management 12
telephone communication 15 vegan diets 567 waste management 12–13
tempeh 350 vegetable protein 350 workplace organisation 12
temperature control vegetables written communication 15
chilling cooked foods 33 brining/pickling 575 yeast 415–16
cold food presentation 573 cooking 347–9 yoghurt 440
core temperatures 34, 216, 225, 296 finishing dishes 349

636

20 PracticalCookeryL2NVQs Index.indd 636 12/03/2015 14:37

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