The Future of Suncare 2023
The Future of Suncare 2023
The Future of Suncare 2023
Table of Contents
WHERE WE ARE NOW ......................................................................................................................... 4
Drive penetration by putting health and wellness at the forefront of suncare ...................................8
Graph 1: skincare and colour cosmetic launches with SPF, 2022 .................................................... 8
Boost consumption with narratives around safe, ethical/eco-friendly yet effective suncare ...........16
Graph 6: usage of skincare products with SPF, by gender and age, 2021 .....................................26
Skin-friendly claims have expanded, with brands focusing on targeting consumers interested in suncare
formulas enriched with skincare ingredients.
Avoid greenwashing, as it negatively impacts a consumer's experience with a brand, and address a
wider range of skintones and conditions.
Strengthen the awareness of sun exposure through technology and explore ways to enforce protection
via innovations. Aftersun products have a lot of untapped potential brands can tap into.
Suncare brands can appeal to consumers by continuing to blur with skincare. Recent launches use
serum textures and an array of skincare ingredients (eg prebiotics, tulip complex).
Skincare-focused innovation is helping consumers even out their skintone, minimise acne breakouts and
protect skin against signs of ageing.
Skincare-focused innovation better emphasises suitability for melanated skin and/or all skintones.
Minimalistic and multibenefit skincare and makeup products with the overall
'sunification' trend are putting suncare's independent existence at risk.
Expanding beyond SPF and extending to a broader and more emotional space will
drive category relevancy, consumer engagement and value growth.
Mintel's perspective
Drive penetration by putting health and wellness at the forefront of suncare
There are opportunities for suncare brands to focus on skin health rather than just on sun
protection. Supporting and protecting the microbiome will become important elements when creating
products.
Brands can also find ways to help improve mental and physical wellbeing by leveraging hero skincare
ingredients, creating new formats and expanding into new benefits or skin types.
Boost consumption with narratives around safe, ethical/eco-friendly yet effective suncare
Fear-driven communication and an unclear definition have cooled consumers' enthusiasm for clean
beauty, but the idea of harmless beauty is here to stay. To play a bigger role, suncare needs to provide
better skin sensations and stronger reassurance in terms of ingredient safety while avoiding
compromises on efficacy.
At the same time, the category needs to move faster to embrace more ethical and eco-friendly values
to strengthen consumers' emotional bonds to suncare.
At the same time, accelerated by the pandemic, skincare has been actively tapping into holistic self-care,
providing more evolved pleasurable experiences and promoting mental wellbeing, in line with Mintel Trend
Total Wellbeing.
The temptation to compete on price is high, but suncare has all the cards to stay highly relevant, being the
hero category in terms of protection efficacy, one of the most fundamental needs.
35
34
30
25
% of launches
20
15
10
8
Will the efficacy perception be affected by the diluted focus on UV protection? The category has reached
great tech advancement, and consumers are confident that the basic needs and functions are fulfilled, so
there is a need and opportunity to go beyond that to reinvigorate their interest by using new hero skincare
ingredients, addressing different skin types or benefits and innovating new formats (eg ingestible).
To address the higher formulation cost, research will focus on increasing formula efficiency (ie how to
reach the same SPF with fewer actives) and potentially creating synergy across ingredients (eg
antioxidants and sunscreen base).
At a time when health is a top priority, it is critical not to fall into a short-term gain that dilutes the category
value and margin, but it is time to boost the perceivable advantages to further premiumise.
Base: UK: 1,289 internet users aged 16+ who have used and bought suncare products in the last 12
months; US: 1,648 internet users aged 18+ who use skin protection products or services; China:
1,132 internet users aged 18-59 who have sensitive skin
Source: Kantar Profiles/Mintel, October 2021, November 2021; KuRunData/Mintel, August 2022
10
8 8
8
7 7
% of launches
6
5
Barrier
Source: Mintel GNPD (barrier claim, total suncare), January 2018-December 2022
Adopt 'restore' and 'support' as key claims and pre-, pro- and
postbiotics as hero ingredients
Hildegard Braukmann Sun & Care Sensitiv After Sun Body Lotion
features bisabolol, panthenol, prebiotic inulin, beta-glucan, a postbiotic
ferment complex and skin-identical membrane lipids claimed to soothe
irritation, promote skin regeneration and strengthen the hydrolipid
barrier.
Dr. K Medicated C Wrinkle Additionally, as mentioned in Mintel's 2023 BPC Trend Beauty Rx, the
White UV medicalisation of beauty is leading to more demand for proof behind the
claims. Dr. K Medicated C Wrinkle White UV, for example, was
developed by Japanese dermatologist Kouichiro Kameyama and features
a combination of advanced beauty dermatology and cosmetic science for
brightening and anti-wrinkle benefits.
Reinforce brand trust and interest with stronger targeting and proven
results.
Source: Instagram/drk_sns
49% of Thai women aged 35-44 have taken VMS daily over the last 12
months (versus 36% of all Thai consumers). The same is seen in China:
UVlipse 37% of women* aged 35-44 say they have taken beauty supplements (eg
antioxidant vitamins, collagen drinks), suggesting that this is a consumer
group to target when diversifying offerings.
Rather than offering generic options like vitamin C, look into more
targeted forms of nutrition that work on a specific area. UVlipse, for
example, is approved as a functional health food by the South Korean
government and claims to maintain skin health by preventing skin
damage from UV radiation. It features hyaluronic acid, selenium and
vitamins said to provide skin moisturisation, antioxidation and nutrition.
Base: UK: 1,289 internet users aged 16+ who have used and bought suncare products in the last 12
months
Source: Kantar Profiles/Mintel, October 2021
Eight Saints Chase The Sun Broad Spectrum SPF (30) Face
Moisturizing Sunscreen features a light lavender scent that makes it
perfect for everyday use in every season.
Light as air
Kao Bioré UV Aqua Rich Aqua Protection Lotion SPF 50+ PA++++ is
said to spread like water on the skin and transform into a mask-like
texture with encapsulated UV filters. Its Outer Skin formula is designed
to form a thin, even, UV-blocking layer that adheres like a second layer
of skin with no white cast.
Health and wellness are the main purchase drivers for this persona;
mindfulness, exercise and diet also influence their beauty buys. They
tend to look for beauty products that protect their skin.
Attract them with suncare formulas enriched with pre-, pro- and
Holistic Beauty postbiotics and microbiome-friendly ingredients, or take a holistic
approach by tapping into beauty ingestibles. Fragranced formulas that
claim to offer emotional and psychological benefits also have potential to
draw their attention.
Though a limited portion of sunscreen users prioritise mineral formulas when buying sunscreen (just 9% in
the US and 17% in Japan), this is likely to grow quickly as consumers become more knowledgeable.
The key challenges for mineral sunscreens will be the feel of them on skin (as they are more likely to create
a cast) and a higher cost than chemical formulas. Again, the top industry priorities will be to look for
synergy across ingredients to improve efficiency and skin sensation.
30
26
25 24
21
20
20
17
% of launches
15
10
More bills banning harmful chemicals have given rise to the ocean-/reef-safe product concept.
While not all scientists agree on the effects of sunscreen being the dominant effect in coral reef damage
and the difficulties in testing it, Mintel GNPD shows an influx of sunscreen launches claiming to be ocean-
/reef-friendly, and this trend is expected to grow particularly in APAC in the coming year.
Whatever the eco-friendly claim, it will be important to pair it with perceivable advantages (eg safe on skin,
texture) for consumers.
50
42
40
40 37
30 31
% of launches
30
23
20
15
13
11 10
10 8
3
2 1
0
0
i-Recipe Cool Watery Touch Essence Sun Balm SPF 50+ PA++++
features an FDA-certified formula with chemical and physical protection
against UV rays without leaving a white cast.
Source: Instagram/hollandandbarrett
They are very active, respected on social media and are not afraid to
share their views and insights on brands and products with their friends
and followers. What's unique about this persona is that they try to stay on
top of current global events and care about brand ethics and
transparency.
Beauty Activist
They are more likely to raise red flags against greenwashing, so it is
important for brands to provide ingredient safety backed with science, as
well as greater efficacy.
Base: UK: 1,417 internet users aged 16+ who have used suncare products in the last 12 months; US:
1,630 internet users aged 18+ who use skin protection products; India: 3,000 internet users aged 18+
Source: Kantar Profiles/Mintel, October 2021, November 2021; Ipsos Observer/Mintel, March 2022
This shows that the misconception that deeper skintones don't need sunscreen is still prevalent, so it is
important to emphasise that daily sunscreen is needed for all skintones.
Better educate consumers on their skin and daily skin/suncare routines. Also, explain the risk of melanoma,
as done in the documentary In the Sun, released by Neutrogena Studios (part of Johnson & Johnson
Consumer, Inc), which features a Black woman who had melanoma as a child.
60
40
% of consumers
20
* skincare testing uses the Fitzpatrick Scale to classify skintone from type one (light, pale white skin
that always burns and never tans) to type six (black and very dark brown skin that never burns and
tans easily)
Source: Instagram/stmoriz; Instagram/supergoop
Source: Instagram/beyond_suncare
Suncare brands can target younger male consumers, as they are more likely to become occasional
suncare users.
Again, the key is to promote an inclusive attitude while improving authentic representation, as men don't
feel fully represented when it comes to beauty.
Japan: usage of skincare products with SPF, by gender and age, 2021
I use now all year around I use now for specific occasions (eg summer, outdoor)
I have used before, but not now I have never used, but would like to use later
I have never used, and don't want to use later
Male, 18-29 6 18 15 24
Male, 30-39 6 18 16 21
Male, 40-59 4 16 8 18
Male, 60+ 1 12 14 12
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
% of consumers
Use of suncare products is higher among younger men
Humanrace suncare The brand also emphasises that it's ideal to wear sunscreen on a daily
basis and that UVA rays from the sun can cause premature signs of
ageing, dark spots, wrinkles and sometimes cancer in all skintones.
This engagement with consumers through education will resonate with
consumers who don't use sunscreen regularly.
Source: Instagram/humanrace
When searching for information, they tend to use technology but rely
more on trusted friends for advice on what to buy, so brands can
strengthen their social media presence and build communities among
their customers.
Lost and Found
Trust is an important factor to them, and they are quite loyal to brands
once they find one they trust, so it will be essential to build on that.
between 2030 and According to a 2002 study by Jan C van der Leun and Frank R de Gruijl,
2052 if it continues to "a 2 degree Celsius (3.6 degree Fahrenheit) increase in ambient
increase at the current temperature is estimated to increase skin cancer incidence 11% globally
rate by 2050". On top of this, DermaNet warns that a variety of skin diseases
can worsen with climate change.
Source: IPCC
Source: Instagram/190sunshine_delight725
Source: Cipher/Mintel
Shiseido has developed and filed a patent for a heating device that
improves the absorption of UV protective formulas, ensuring protection
after makeup application.
Layering SPF products can ensure that consumers are applying enough
sunscreen to protect their skin from sun damage. As a next step, brands
can leverage technology to enhance sun protection after makeup
application or prevent makeup pilling caused by layering SPF
products.
Source: Cipher/Mintel
Base: UK: 1,452 internet users aged 16+ who have used suncare products in the last 12 months
Source: Kantar Profiles/Mintel, September 2022
Key takeaways
At the same time, the category needs to move faster to embrace more ethical and eco-friendly values
that strengthen consumers' emotional bond to suncare.