The Future of Suncare 2023

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1 FEBRUARY 2023 | REPORT

THE FUTURE OF SUNCARE: 2023


Independent suncare is at risk. Expanding beyond SPF and into a broader, Reiko Hasegawa, Senior
more emotional space will drive category relevancy, consumer engagement and Beauty and Personal Care
Analyst
value growth.

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Table of Contents
WHERE WE ARE NOW ......................................................................................................................... 4

IN THE NEXT TWO YEARS................................................................................................................... 6

Drive penetration by putting health and wellness at the forefront of suncare ...................................8

Graph 1: skincare and colour cosmetic launches with SPF, 2022 .................................................... 8

Graph 2: suncare launches with barrier claims, 2018-22 ................................................................ 10

Boost consumption with narratives around safe, ethical/eco-friendly yet effective suncare ...........16

Graph 3: mineral/physical-based* suncare launches, 2018-22....................................................... 16

Graph 4: suncare launches with ocean/reef claims, 2018-22 ......................................................... 18

Amplify loyalty by pushing for greater inclusivity ............................................................................. 22

Graph 5: product usage of suncare and skin protection products, 2021......................................... 23

Graph 6: usage of skincare products with SPF, by gender and age, 2021 .....................................26

IN FIVE YEARS AND BEYOND ........................................................................................................... 28

Climate-proof the skin via technology ............................................................................................. 29

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The now, the next and beyond


Where we are now
The suncare category has largely remained steady over the last year, led by continuous blurring with
skincare and base makeup.

Skin-friendly claims have expanded, with brands focusing on targeting consumers interested in suncare
formulas enriched with skincare ingredients.

In the next two years


Value and trust will be key drivers in the suncare category as prices continue to rise. The suncare
category can maximise trust by promoting the science behind suncare.

Avoid greenwashing, as it negatively impacts a consumer's experience with a brand, and address a
wider range of skintones and conditions.

In five years and beyond


As concerns around climate change escalate, demands for protection and climate adaptation will rise.

Strengthen the awareness of sun exposure through technology and explore ways to enforce protection
via innovations. Aftersun products have a lot of untapped potential brands can tap into.

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WHERE WE ARE NOW

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Overview of innovation in the last year


Although suncare NPD remains flat, innovations around sustainability and environmentally friendly
packaging continue to grow.

FLAT NPD FOCUS ON DOMINANCE OF


SUSTAINABLE CLAIMS LOTION/CREAM
84%
34% 33%
of launches in the overall
suncare market have of suncare launches had of suncare launches are
addressed sun/sunbed a sustainable claim in lotion or cream, followed
exposure, with NPD 2022 compared to just by spray/mist/spritz at
steady over the past five 8% in 2018 16%
years

Source: Mintel GNPD, Jan 2018-Dec 2022

What we have seen


EMEA: disruptive eco, skincare and sensorial NPD
As eco claims become the norm, brands will need to be more creative to grab attention. Upcycled
formulas and sustainably sourced botanicals have stood out.

Suncare brands can appeal to consumers by continuing to blur with skincare. Recent launches use
serum textures and an array of skincare ingredients (eg prebiotics, tulip complex).

APAC: spotlight easy use, skincare/beautification


Brands are experimenting with different formats and textures (eg patch, stick, powder) to meet the
interest in convenient sunscreen and help people expand their sun protection repertoire.

Skincare-focused innovation is helping consumers even out their skintone, minimise acne breakouts and
protect skin against signs of ageing.

Americas: eco- and skin-friendly concepts evolve


The spotlight on climate change continues to drive suncare innovation. More disruptive eco-friendly NPD
can link the planet's health to skin health and factor in increased demand for cooling or lighter
formulas as temperatures rise.

Skincare-focused innovation better emphasises suitability for melanated skin and/or all skintones.

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IN THE NEXT TWO YEARS

Suncare is a challenged category.

Minimalistic and multibenefit skincare and makeup products with the overall
'sunification' trend are putting suncare's independent existence at risk.

Expanding beyond SPF and extending to a broader and more emotional space will
drive category relevancy, consumer engagement and value growth.

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Mintel's perspective
Drive penetration by putting health and wellness at the forefront of suncare
There are opportunities for suncare brands to focus on skin health rather than just on sun
protection. Supporting and protecting the microbiome will become important elements when creating
products.

Brands can also find ways to help improve mental and physical wellbeing by leveraging hero skincare
ingredients, creating new formats and expanding into new benefits or skin types.

Boost consumption with narratives around safe, ethical/eco-friendly yet effective suncare
Fear-driven communication and an unclear definition have cooled consumers' enthusiasm for clean
beauty, but the idea of harmless beauty is here to stay. To play a bigger role, suncare needs to provide
better skin sensations and stronger reassurance in terms of ingredient safety while avoiding
compromises on efficacy.

At the same time, the category needs to move faster to embrace more ethical and eco-friendly values
to strengthen consumers' emotional bonds to suncare.

Amplify loyalty by pushing for greater inclusivity with diverse offerings


Existing offerings are too homogenised and struggle to engage customers with varied skin types and
tones. Explore the different elements of DEI to tap into.

Take a gender-inclusive approach to capture specific needs and celebrate differences.

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Drive penetration by putting health and wellness


at the forefront of suncare

Multifunctional products threaten the suncare category


SPF-infused skincare and makeup are becoming the norm as more consumers embrace a minimalistic
approach to beauty. This 'sunification' trend threatens the suncare category's independent existence.

At the same time, accelerated by the pandemic, skincare has been actively tapping into holistic self-care,
providing more evolved pleasurable experiences and promoting mental wellbeing, in line with Mintel Trend
Total Wellbeing.

The temptation to compete on price is high, but suncare has all the cards to stay highly relevant, being the
hero category in terms of protection efficacy, one of the most fundamental needs.

Global: skincare and colour cosmetic launches with SPF, 2022

35
34

30

25
% of launches

20

15

10
8

Foundations/fluid illuminators Face/neck care


Source: Mintel GNPD (SPF claim, total suncare), January-December 2022

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Promote skin health


To increase the category's relevance, suncare brands can tap into skin health, expanding protection
positioning beyond UV.

Will the efficacy perception be affected by the diluted focus on UV protection? The category has reached
great tech advancement, and consumers are confident that the basic needs and functions are fulfilled, so
there is a need and opportunity to go beyond that to reinvigorate their interest by using new hero skincare
ingredients, addressing different skin types or benefits and innovating new formats (eg ingestible).

To address the higher formulation cost, research will focus on increasing formula efficiency (ie how to
reach the same SPF with fewer actives) and potentially creating synergy across ingredients (eg
antioxidants and sunscreen base).

At a time when health is a top priority, it is critical not to fall into a short-term gain that dilutes the category
value and margin, but it is time to boost the perceivable advantages to further premiumise.

Look beyond UV protection to drive penetration


Microbiome and skin barrier protection are attracting consumer attention and interest.

PROTECT THE SKIN INFUSED WITH SKIN BARRIER REPAIR


PROBIOTICS
31% 47%
72%
of UK suncare buyers of Chinese female
would be interested in of US suncare buyers suncare buyers aged
suncare products that are interested in sun 30-39 with sensitive skin
protect the skin protection products are interested in
microbiome infused with probiotics sunscreen products that
can repair the skin
barrier

Base: UK: 1,289 internet users aged 16+ who have used and bought suncare products in the last 12
months; US: 1,648 internet users aged 18+ who use skin protection products or services; China:
1,132 internet users aged 18-59 who have sensitive skin
Source: Kantar Profiles/Mintel, October 2021, November 2021; KuRunData/Mintel, August 2022

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Expand to skin barrier and microbiome protection


Skin barrier claims are still niche in suncare, yet they are growing and represent a key opportunity for the
category.

Global: suncare launches with barrier claims, 2018-22

2018 2019 2020 2021 2022

10

8 8
8
7 7
% of launches

6
5

Barrier

Source: Mintel GNPD (barrier claim, total suncare), January 2018-December 2022

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Adopt 'restore' and 'support' as key claims and pre-, pro- and
postbiotics as hero ingredients

Restores skin barrier function

Dear Me Beauty Skin Barrier Sunscreen Gel SPF 50+ PA++++ is


serum-powered skincare with ceramide, panthenol and hyaluronic acid.
It claims to provide intense, all-day moisturisation to skin's layers,
strengthening and restoring skin barrier function. It features a blue light
shield technology and next-generation solar UV filters made of
encapsulated titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Help support skin's microbiome

Natura Siberica Lab Biome Protection & Moisturising Screen SPF 50


has a 1% postbiotic active as the base and includes fermented northern
cloudberry and wild raspberry extracts, claimed to help support skin's
microbiome and increase its resistance to the effects of an urban
lifestyle.

Formulated with pre- and postbiotics

Hildegard Braukmann Sun & Care Sensitiv After Sun Body Lotion
features bisabolol, panthenol, prebiotic inulin, beta-glucan, a postbiotic
ferment complex and skin-identical membrane lipids claimed to soothe
irritation, promote skin regeneration and strengthen the hydrolipid
barrier.

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Expand to different skin types and benefits


with proven efficacy
Suncare has already been using sensitive-skin and anti-ageing claims,
which will likely increase by double digit percentage in the next two
years, but such claims won't be enough for consumers. Moving forward,
brands can target more diverse skin conditions, such as being acne-
prone or oily.

Dr. K Medicated C Wrinkle Additionally, as mentioned in Mintel's 2023 BPC Trend Beauty Rx, the
White UV medicalisation of beauty is leading to more demand for proof behind the
claims. Dr. K Medicated C Wrinkle White UV, for example, was
developed by Japanese dermatologist Kouichiro Kameyama and features
a combination of advanced beauty dermatology and cosmetic science for
brightening and anti-wrinkle benefits.

Reinforce brand trust and interest with stronger targeting and proven
results.

Source: Instagram/drk_sns

Go holistic and offer new formats such as


ingestible
In line with the increasing interest in holistic health, brands can find ways
to help improve skin health holistically by tapping into beauty
ingestibles.

49% of Thai women aged 35-44 have taken VMS daily over the last 12
months (versus 36% of all Thai consumers). The same is seen in China:
UVlipse 37% of women* aged 35-44 say they have taken beauty supplements (eg
antioxidant vitamins, collagen drinks), suggesting that this is a consumer
group to target when diversifying offerings.

Rather than offering generic options like vitamin C, look into more
targeted forms of nutrition that work on a specific area. UVlipse, for
example, is approved as a functional health food by the South Korean
government and claims to maintain skin health by preventing skin
damage from UV radiation. It features hyaluronic acid, selenium and
vitamins said to provide skin moisturisation, antioxidation and nutrition.

* taken from Mintel's Global Consumer

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Make suncare an everyday pleasant experience

Base: UK: 1,289 internet users aged 16+ who have used and bought suncare products in the last 12
months
Source: Kantar Profiles/Mintel, October 2021

Wellness needs are emerging worldwide. Fragranced formulas are one


way the suncare category can answer consumer demands for
wellness/self-care, and they create opportunities for brands to
encourage consumers to expand their suncare rituals beyond applying
suncare products.

The scent of sunscreen can be nostalgic and pleasantly intoxicating,


reminding people of happy bygone summer holidays. However, it is
trapped in specific associations that don't fit in everyday life, so
consumers may struggle to go beyond sporadic applications.

Suncare brands can adopt wellness fragrances that claim to offer


emotional and psychological benefits and make suncare part of a
structured and continuous self-care ritual, particularly for a younger
consumer segment globally.

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Tap into self-care with comforting scents


Raise emotional depth with fragranced formulas.

Comfortable aroma of geranium

Shiro Tamanu Hydration Oil UV features tamanu oil (Calophyllum


inophyllum seed oil) and kuroyona oil (Pongamia glabra seed oil) for
moisturisation, ferulic acid from rice bran for UV absorption and
essential oils for an aroma of geranium, rose and palmarosa.

Light lavender for everyday use

Eight Saints Chase The Sun Broad Spectrum SPF (30) Face
Moisturizing Sunscreen features a light lavender scent that makes it
perfect for everyday use in every season.

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Focus on texture to elevate the wellness conversation

Light as air

Tatcha The Silk Sunscreen Hydrating Mineral Shield SPF 50 PA++++ is


described as a weightless and light-as-air mineral sunscreen designed
to provide broad spectrum SPF 50 PA++++ protection against UVA and
UVB rays. It's claimed to visibly even skintone and go on sheer, while
preventing sunburn, for a healthy appearance.

Whip cream inspired

Vacation Classic Whip SPF 30 is a lighter-than-air sunscreen made


with eco-friendly propellants and an authentic 'tilt valve' actuator that
produces star-shaped mountains of foam, inspired by everyone's
favourite after-dinner indulgence: whipped cream. It features the
brand's signature scent.

From water to a mask-like texture

Kao Bioré UV Aqua Rich Aqua Protection Lotion SPF 50+ PA++++ is
said to spread like water on the skin and transform into a mask-like
texture with encapsulated UV filters. Its Outer Skin formula is designed
to form a thin, even, UV-blocking layer that adheres like a second layer
of skin with no white cast.

What does this mean for consumers?


Concepts around health and wellness will appeal to the Holistic Beauty
persona − one of the Beauty Personas identified by Mintel.

Health and wellness are the main purchase drivers for this persona;
mindfulness, exercise and diet also influence their beauty buys. They
tend to look for beauty products that protect their skin.

Attract them with suncare formulas enriched with pre-, pro- and
Holistic Beauty postbiotics and microbiome-friendly ingredients, or take a holistic
approach by tapping into beauty ingestibles. Fragranced formulas that
claim to offer emotional and psychological benefits also have potential to
draw their attention.

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Boost consumption with narratives around safe,


ethical/eco-friendly yet effective suncare

Ties to skin safety strengthen suncare's profile


A combination of safety awareness and eco-consciousness is driving the growth of mineral-based
sunscreens. Physical (mineral) sunscreens sit on the surface of the skin and act as a shield, while chemical
sunscreens are absorbed into the skin, thus generating some safety concerns. Additionally, some chemical
sunscreen ingredients like oxybenzone and octinoxate are thought to be harmful to coral reefs.

Though a limited portion of sunscreen users prioritise mineral formulas when buying sunscreen (just 9% in
the US and 17% in Japan), this is likely to grow quickly as consumers become more knowledgeable.

The key challenges for mineral sunscreens will be the feel of them on skin (as they are more likely to create
a cast) and a higher cost than chemical formulas. Again, the top industry priorities will be to look for
synergy across ingredients to improve efficiency and skin sensation.

Global: mineral/physical-based* suncare launches, 2018-22

30

26
25 24

21
20
20
17
% of launches

15

10

2018 2019 2020 2021 2022


* keyword search: (mineral or physical) and not 'mineral oil', 'mineral water', 'mineral oils', 'minerals' nor
'mineralising'
Source: Mintel GNPD (mineral/physical claim, total suncare), January 2018-December 2022

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Highlight macro-molecules and non-


absorption
Identify ways to reassure consumers without compromising on the
experience. For example, Dr.Yu emphasises product safety by
highlighting its nano-free formula.

Dr.Yu Fresh UV Protection Emulsion SPF 42 PA+++ is formulated with


MM3 (three macro-molecule UV filters) to create a protective film on the
Dr.Yu Fresh UV Protection surface of the skin without being absorbed into it. The lightweight texture
Emulsion SPF 42 PA+++ is said to hydrate and refresh skin without being greasy or sticky.

Move faster to embrace more ethical and eco-friendly values

GOOD VALUE FOR INTEREST IN OCEAN- NOT HARMFUL


MONEY FRIENDLY SUNCARE SUNCARE

52% 42% 39%

of Vietnamese of female suncare buyers of US consumers aged


consumers* think BPC in the UK aged 16-24 25-34 are making more
products made by an would be interested in efforts to buy suncare
ethical/socially suncare products that products that aren't
responsible brand offer are ocean-friendly harmful to the
good value for the money environment

* taken from Mintel's Global Consumer


Base: Vietnam: 1,000 internet users aged 18+; UK: 1,289 internet users aged 16+ who have used
and bought suncare products in the last 12 months; US: 1,630 internet users aged 18+ who use skin
protection products
Source: Rakuten Insight/Mintel, August 2022; Kantar Profiles/Mintel, October 2021, November 2021

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Lead the conversation on harmless beauty


Suncare has been relatively slow in getting on clean beauty and eco-friendly trends, as its key fundamental
driver is to protect skin from UV damage. Embracing more ethical and eco-friendly values can help
strengthen consumers' emotional bond with suncare.

More bills banning harmful chemicals have given rise to the ocean-/reef-safe product concept.

While not all scientists agree on the effects of sunscreen being the dominant effect in coral reef damage
and the difficulties in testing it, Mintel GNPD shows an influx of sunscreen launches claiming to be ocean-
/reef-friendly, and this trend is expected to grow particularly in APAC in the coming year.

Whatever the eco-friendly claim, it will be important to pair it with perceivable advantages (eg safe on skin,
texture) for consumers.

Select regions: suncare launches with ocean/reef claims, 2018-22

2018 2019 2020 2021 2022

50

42
40
40 37

30 31
% of launches

30

23

20
15
13
11 10
10 8

3
2 1
0
0

North America Europe Asia Pacific


Source: Mintel GNPD (ocean/reef claims, total suncare), January 2018-December 2022

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Pair eco-friendly suncare with better skin sensations


Improve the usage experience without compromising on efficacy, as 52% of consumers in China are
interested in suncare products that provide fresh skin sensations.

Natural protective and caring ingredients

Everyday California Mineral SPF30 Reef Safe Sunscreen Lotion is


made with a reef-safe formula that claims to be 100% free of
oxybenzone, octinoxate, phenoxyethanol, parabens and all other
chemical UV filters. Key ingredients include blue algae, sea kelp,
vitamin E, jojoba, sunflower and rosemary.

Non-nano zinc formula combined with botanicals

Project Reef Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 features a non-nano zinc


formula that claims to glide on easily and leave no residue behind. It's
formulated with Aloe vera, coconut and sea buckthorn oil as well as
antioxidants such as green tea, pomegranate and raspberry extract.

FDA-certified chemical and physical protection

i-Recipe Cool Watery Touch Essence Sun Balm SPF 50+ PA++++
features an FDA-certified formula with chemical and physical protection
against UV rays without leaving a white cast.

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Keep abreast of suncare ingredient bans


Since Hawaii passed a landmark bill to regulate
sunscreen ingredients in July 2018, several other
locations (including the US Virgin Islands; Key
West, Florida; Bonaire; Palau and ecotourism
reserves in Mexico and Thailand) have banned
sunscreen that contains potentially harmful
ingredients.

Brands must keep abreast of and adhere to


these changes when exporting. They also need
to keep in mind that sunscreen product regulations
Holland & Barrett banned all chemical sunscreens vary greatly around the world.
from its stores
The sunscreen ingredient ban is starting to show
in retail too: in March 2022, Holland & Barrett
decided to ban all chemical sunscreens from its
stores in the UK. The key is to avoid fear-based
marketing, as it could scare consumers away from
using suncare products altogether.

Source: Instagram/hollandandbarrett

Stand against misinformation with scientific


evidence
After several years of conversation about ocean-/reef-safe products,
many greenwashing issues have appeared in the suncare category.

Furthermore, there has been conflicting information about sunscreen


ingredients. A one-dimensional view of sustainability may lead to
misunderstanding and confusion. It could also mislead consumers into
Protect Land + Sea Certified believing they are not contributing to the environment simply because a
products are independently product contains certain chemicals.
tested by the Haereticus
It will become increasingly important to understand which UV filters are
Environmental Laboratory
best for the wellbeing of reefs and aquatic life. Craig Downs, PhD, a
scientist known for his study on toxic sunscreen chemicals and Executive
Director at Haereticus Environmental Laboratory, created a new standard
for coral-friendly products by launching a certificate.

Conduct further environmental risk studies and provide evidence to avoid


losing consumers due to misinformation.

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Offer effortless ethical products with upcycled ingredients


As consumers change their
purchasing behaviour to be
more responsible, upcycled
formulas will become more
common since they are an
effort-free ethical and
environmental contribution
that consumers can do while
becoming more conscious of
waste. Caudalie Vinosun Ocean UpCircle SPF 25 Mineral
In India, for example, 77% of Protect Very High Protection Sunscreen
adults* say they would buy a Lightweight Cream SPF 50+
BPC product made from
organic waste generated by
other industries.

Take inspiration from


Caudalie's sunscreen
powered by upcycled spruce
extract and and UK brand
UpCircle's sunscreen that
uses upcycled raspberry
seeds from the juicing
industry.

* taken from Mintel's Global Consumer


Source: Instagram/caudalie

What does this mean for consumers?


Such products will resonate most with the Beauty Activist persona, who
chooses brands that align with their values.

They are very active, respected on social media and are not afraid to
share their views and insights on brands and products with their friends
and followers. What's unique about this persona is that they try to stay on
top of current global events and care about brand ethics and
transparency.
Beauty Activist
They are more likely to raise red flags against greenwashing, so it is
important for brands to provide ingredient safety backed with science, as
well as greater efficacy.

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Amplify loyalty by pushing for greater inclusivity

Enhance user loyalty with universal formulas


As mentioned in Mintel's Serving The Undeserved Trend, brands should consider how product lines can be
expanded to cater to different needs.

GREATER VARIETY MADE SPECIFICALLY BEAUTIFUL LOOKS


FOR DARKER FOR THEIR SKINTONE SIMILAR TO THEIR
SKINTONES OWN
33%
67% 77%
of US Black users of
of UK 16-24 year old facial/body sunscreen of Indian consumers
users of suncare wish there were more agree that seeing
products agree that there product options made beautiful looks similar to
should be a greater specifically for their their own in
variety of products for skintone advertisements would
darker skintones catch their attention

Base: UK: 1,417 internet users aged 16+ who have used suncare products in the last 12 months; US:
1,630 internet users aged 18+ who use skin protection products; India: 3,000 internet users aged 18+
Source: Kantar Profiles/Mintel, October 2021, November 2021; Ipsos Observer/Mintel, March 2022

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Help boost Black adults' low sunscreen usage


"I also heard growing up that black skin didn't burn, so I didn't think I needed sunscreen", said tennis star
Naomi Osaka, whose beauty brand focuses on providing skincare products that protect darker skintones
from the sun.

This shows that the misconception that deeper skintones don't need sunscreen is still prevalent, so it is
important to emphasise that daily sunscreen is needed for all skintones.

Better educate consumers on their skin and daily skin/suncare routines. Also, explain the risk of melanoma,
as done in the documentary In the Sun, released by Neutrogena Studios (part of Johnson & Johnson
Consumer, Inc), which features a Black woman who had melanoma as a child.

US: product usage of suncare and skin protection products, 2021

Lotion/cream sunscreen Spray-on sunscreen Stick/balm sunscreen


Skincare products with SPF Makeup with SPF

60

40
% of consumers

20

White Black or African Asian or Pacific Islander Other race


American
Use of skincare with SPF remains high across all groups, while sunscreen shows a bigger gap

Base: US: 2,000 internet users aged 18+


Source: Kantar Profiles/Mintel, November 2021

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Promote safety for every skintone


To lead the way in skin type
inclusivity, Superdrug has
pledged that it will now include
at least 35% of skin types 5
and 6* in its sun cream and
skincare trials.

Besides stressing inclusive


product ranges, help
consumers feel even more
St. Moriz #TanForEveryTone Supergoop! Every. Single. represented when shopping
campaign Face. Watery Lotion SPF 50 for suncare products. Try
PA++++ using names that clearly imply
suitability for all skin types and
tones or universal formulas
that leave no white cast.

* skincare testing uses the Fitzpatrick Scale to classify skintone from type one (light, pale white skin
that always burns and never tans) to type six (black and very dark brown skin that never burns and
tans easily)
Source: Instagram/stmoriz; Instagram/supergoop

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Make suncare more inclusive


Highlight the fact that everyone can benefit from wearing sunscreen.

Celebrates South Asian heritage and rituals

AM Sunscreen Glow Drops Broad Spectrum SPF 50+ claims to be the


world's first Ayurvedistry mineral SPF for year-round super-power
protection. It provides full sun and skin protection for all skintones and
prevents sunburn.

Designed for everyone under the sun

Body Lotion SPF 45 is described as a daily glow-boosting body


sunscreen with broad spectrum SPF 45 to illuminate all skintones with a
neutral pearl for an instant island glow without the glitter or white cast.

Mineral sunscreen for melanated skin

Always Golden Body Lotion with Sunscreen features a light, tinted


formula said to blend instantly while enhancing melanated, ivory to
beige skintones, leaving no white or ashy residue.

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Address a wide range of skin conditions,


including albinism, eczema and vitiligo
The awareness of skin conditions such as albinism, eczema and vitiligo
is growing. Model Diandra Forrest with albinism has proven that
stereotypes can be broken, and vitiligo has been in the spotlight in Brazil
on the Big Brother TV show.

One way brands can cater to a wider range of skin conditions is to


create tailor-made suncare products. BASF's Care Creations, for
example, supports Beyond Suncare, a non-governmental organisation
that empowers and protects people with albinism in Africa through
customised suncare products and other initiatives.

Source: Instagram/beyond_suncare

Don't overlook younger men's engagement in suncare market


In Japan, only 36% of men have used sunscreen compared to 85% of women, highlighting potential to
target an untapped segment of the market.

Suncare brands can target younger male consumers, as they are more likely to become occasional
suncare users.

Again, the key is to promote an inclusive attitude while improving authentic representation, as men don't
feel fully represented when it comes to beauty.

Japan: usage of skincare products with SPF, by gender and age, 2021

I use now all year around I use now for specific occasions (eg summer, outdoor)
I have used before, but not now I have never used, but would like to use later
I have never used, and don't want to use later

Male, 18-29 6 18 15 24

Male, 30-39 6 18 16 21

Male, 40-59 4 16 8 18

Male, 60+ 1 12 14 12

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

% of consumers
Use of suncare products is higher among younger men

Base: Japan: 2,000 internet users aged 18+


Source: Rakuten Insight/Mintel, September 2021

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Take a gender-inclusive approach to


campaigns
54% of men in the UK agree that suncare advertising is mainly targeted
at women. Beside promoting inclusivity, brands can take a gender-
inclusive approach like Humanrace has: its suncare campaign features
a modern and gender-inclusive appeal, incorporating many genders,
ethnicities and skin types.

Humanrace suncare The brand also emphasises that it's ideal to wear sunscreen on a daily
basis and that UVA rays from the sun can cause premature signs of
ageing, dark spots, wrinkles and sometimes cancer in all skintones.
This engagement with consumers through education will resonate with
consumers who don't use sunscreen regularly.

Source: Instagram/humanrace

What does this mean for consumers?


This trend is most likely to attract the Lost and Found persona, who takes
a functional approach to beauty but wants to learn more to expand their
product selection.

When searching for information, they tend to use technology but rely
more on trusted friends for advice on what to buy, so brands can
strengthen their social media presence and build communities among
their customers.
Lost and Found
Trust is an important factor to them, and they are quite loyal to brands
once they find one they trust, so it will be essential to build on that.

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IN FIVE YEARS AND BEYOND

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Climate-proof the skin via technology

GLOBAL WARMING Link suncare with climate change


IS LIKELY TO REACH Expect increased demand for suncare as temperatures rise. In the future,
1.5°C climate adaptation and climate-resilient skin will be key for suncare.

between 2030 and According to a 2002 study by Jan C van der Leun and Frank R de Gruijl,
2052 if it continues to "a 2 degree Celsius (3.6 degree Fahrenheit) increase in ambient
increase at the current temperature is estimated to increase skin cancer incidence 11% globally
rate by 2050". On top of this, DermaNet warns that a variety of skin diseases
can worsen with climate change.

Furthermore, rising temperatures could result in behavioural changes,


such as increased time outdoors, leading to more UV radiation exposure,
skin cancer and skin diseases. Strengthen the connection between
suncare and climate change to emphasise its importance as an
everyday necessity.

Source: IPCC

Protect children's skin from the sun and


cancer
In APAC, more education is needed around suncare, as it is currently
driven by aesthetic purposes. Given that consumers are not very worried
about sunburn or sun diseases, a sharp communication angle to
boost awareness of the risks of sunburn will educate and persuade
consumers. Evaluate collaboration with children, parents, nursery
workers or paediatricians to identify the right territory for children's
Sunshine Delight powered
suncare.
by Kosé Suncut Mild Cream
Kosé has developed a new suncare product for children, designed to be
used in nurseries, with young entrepreneur Eika Ito. The product is based
on feedback from parents and nursery workers and comes in a paper-
based CUBE PAK to reduce the environmental impact.

Source: Instagram/190sunshine_delight725

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Climate-/future-proof skin against long UVA


rays with filtration tech
SPF was one of the biggest beauty topics of 2022, with 569 million
TikTok views and 1.8 million Instagram hashtags. Consumers perceive
sunscreen efficacy from the labelled SPF/PA numbers; however,
depending on local regulations, brands cannot use SPF numbers over
50. No matter how high the protection is, consumers might not see the
difference.
La Roche-Posay Anthelios
To differentiate, brands can focus on innovating technology and
protect skin from long UVA rays, which 'have so far been insufficiently
filtered'. In 2022, L'Oréal introduced UVMune 400, the company's first
sun-filtering technology that claims to effectively protect the skin against
ultra-long UVA rays, which 'penetrate the epidermis the most and are
among the main causes of skin aging' and 'contribute to the development
of skin cancer, along with other UVA and UVB rays'.

Use VR and tech to strengthen awareness around sun exposure


There is still room for brands to improve the
quality of education in terms of suncare
application and the risk factors of not using
sunscreen. Invest in apps that track sunscreen use
or tell one when it's time to reapply – things that tie
to overall category usage and drive purchase.

Cosmetics and fragrance retailer Marionnaud Italy


has teamed up with beauty tech company Revieve
to launch an AI-powered suncare app for the
Italian market.
Marionnaud Italy and Revieve partner to launch
the industry-first AI Suncare Advisor L'Oréal also announced a multi-year partnership
with climate tech company Breezometer. The
partnership will uncover new insights around how
the environment affects skin ageing and
,ultimately, provide new services to consumers
that can accompany their skin needs all over the
world with personalised routines and lifestyle
advice.

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Enforce protection through wash-off


products
Most sunscreens are developed as leave-on formats, and only a few
wash-off products like soap, face wash or body wash claim to offer sun
protection, indicating an untapped space for suncare brands.

In 2022, Unilever announced that it had developed a two-step method of


delivering high SPF and UVA protection factors to skin through a
cleansing composition comprising water-soluble sunscreens and a leave-
on composition.

The cleansing composition also has potential to be developed into


shampoo and conditioner, offering protection to the hair and scalp.
Demonstrate how UVA and UVB rays can damage hair cuticles and
cause oxidation, which can lead to hair breakage and split ends.

Source: Cipher/Mintel

Leverage devices to ensure protection after


makeup application
The merge of cosmetics and SPF may encourage consumers to skip
separate SPF application; however, beauty experts recommend
consumers use SPF in a separate step in the beauty routine.

Shiseido has developed and filed a patent for a heating device that
improves the absorption of UV protective formulas, ensuring protection
after makeup application.

Layering SPF products can ensure that consumers are applying enough
sunscreen to protect their skin from sun damage. As a next step, brands
can leverage technology to enhance sun protection after makeup
application or prevent makeup pilling caused by layering SPF
products.

Source: Cipher/Mintel

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IN THE UK Tap the potential of the aftersun category


56% Although aftersun product usage has been declining year-on-year due to
the pandemic and people not travelling, there is still opportunity to
of suncare users would leverage the 'reopening' and align aftersun products with general
be interested in skincare to drive broader usage.
skincare products that
are designed to be Aftersun is an easy category to 'skinify' and use in conjunction with SPF.
used after being in the The key is to ensure post-sun skin nourishment to help prevent
sun damage and protect and enhance skin after sun exposure.

Keep an eye on aftersun, as the market is predicted to grow, especially


with temperatures expected to rise in the coming years.

Base: UK: 1,452 internet users aged 16+ who have used suncare products in the last 12 months
Source: Kantar Profiles/Mintel, September 2022

What does this mean for consumers?


The Beauty Functionalist persona uses personal care products for
hygiene reasons. They look after their health and hygiene, but for them,
it's about necessity, not the experience, indicating that suncare still has
potential to stay strong and continue as a standalone category.

Price is a top concern for them, so it's important for brands to


demonstrate value by emphasising the rising necessity of sun protection
for the skin. Mass-market brands can target them as they tend to be one-
Beauty Functionalist
stop shoppers, who gravitate towards products sold at mass-market
retailers (eg grocery, drug, big-box).

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Key takeaways

Push value to drive penetration


Suncare is challenged by other beauty categories adding suncare to their benefits. Prove value by
focusing on skin health, while providing higher efficacy and textural innovation. Improving wellness
can present opportunities for suncare brands.

Provide stronger reassurance to maximise trust


Suncare needs to provide better skin sensations and stronger reassurance in terms of
ingredient safety, while avoiding compromises on efficacy.

At the same time, the category needs to move faster to embrace more ethical and eco-friendly values
that strengthen consumers' emotional bond to suncare.

Work on DEI efforts to build loyality


Reinforce the importance of investing in inclusive suncare products and campaigns. Tackle the
misconception that deeper skintones don't need sunscreen, and promote safety for every skintone
with a universal formula that leaves no white cast.

Climate-resilient skin will be key


Demands for sun protection are expected to increase as temperatures rise, presenting more
opportunities for brands to sell standalone suncare products. Raise awareness of the risks of
sunburn and promote them as daily necessities for all consumers.

Meet the expert


Reiko Hasegawa

Senior Beauty and Personal Care Analyst

Based in Tokyo, Reiko brings with her over a decade’s experience in


trend analysis and forecasting as well as product innovation in beauty
and personal care. She is responsible for analysing and providing
insights on trends in the Japanese beauty market.

Read more by this expert | Get in touch

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