Kerstin & Irmgard Friedrich

Textbook for Beginners

Part I

SOFTWARE
FOR
CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION
Contents
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©Friedrich: GRAFIS - Textbook for Beginners, Edition 10/98

Introduction Chapter 6
“Point and direction construction”
Chapter 1
6.1 The sub-menu point construction 2
“Basic rules for working with GRAFIS, call- 6.2 Further point constructions 5
ing basic blocks” 6.3 Construction of lines 8
1.1 Important rules for work with GRAFIS 1 6.4 Direction construction and p+dir+lg 11
1.2 Start GRAFIS 2 6.5 Circle arcs 13
1.3 Calling basic blocks 5 6.6 Rectangles 15
1.4 Quit GRAFIS 6 6.7 Exercises 15
1.5 Exercises 7
Chapter 7
Chapter 2 “Measurements and annotation”
“Grading” 7.1 The measure menu 2
2.1 Work with measurement charts 2 7.2 Finished measurements 5
2.2 Basic blocks and size table 5 7.3 Set and edit texts 8
2.3 Grading 7 7.4 Set symbols 11
2.4 Exercises 8 7.5 Attributes 13
7.6 Hatching 13
Chapter 3
7.7 Exercises 15
“Screen work and pattern output”
3.1 Alter screen display 2 Chapter 8
3.2 When help is needed 3 “Darts and pleats”
3.3 Pattern output 4 8.1 Relocate darts 2
3.4 Stack 7 8.2 Shorten darts 5
3.5 Exercises 8 8.3 Dart hoods on darts and pleats 6
8.4 Construct new darts 8
Chapter 4
8.5 Spread for pleats, pivot open and close 9
“Create and alter perimeter” 8.6 Exercises 12
4.1 Work with collections and styles 2
4.2 The construction record 3 Chapter 9
4.3 Geometrical basics 4 “Curve construction and manipulation”
4.4 Deleting objects 6 9.1 Curve construction 2
4.5 Parallels 8 9.2 Curve correction 5
4.6 Corners 11 9.4 Point manipulation (poma) 7
4.7 Exercises 13 9.5 Exercises 9
Chapter 5 Chapter 10
“Easy line functions” “Transformation”
5.1 Linking lines 2 10.1 Transformation 2
5.2 Raster 5 10.2 Complex exercises 6
5.3 Lengthen and shorten lines 9
5.4 Cut, cut “on” and separate lines 11 Index
5.5 Exercises 13
Introduction
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©Friedrich: GRAFIS - Textbook for Beginners, Edition 10/98

The GRAFIS system as well as size related construction and proc-

essing parameters.
Since 1991 the CAD system GRAFIS has been used • Layplanning considering material types and
in education, since 1993 in trade and industry. The repeats.
package contains first pattern cutting, pattern en-
largement and reduction and a basic layplanning The system also contains interfaces for data ex-
system. From version 7 pattern enlargement and change with other CAD systems. Thus, GRAFIS
reduction can ensue according to the construction data can be processed for layplanning and cutter
system as well as with grade rules. Irrespective of control, given that the software of the target system
this, GRAFIS records the construction and design is prepared accordingly. The GRAFIS Help contains
steps during first pattern development by impercep- explanations about the interface.
tibly writing a protocol. The user can then call this Every user can create and apply personal basic
record with other sizes and create a computerised blocks in GRAFIS. Nevertheless, thorough knowl-
similar construction for these sizes. edge is essential which can be obtained in training
courses.
Each size is represented by a measurement chart in
GRAFIS, incorporating body measures, set up ac- Patterns generated exclusively according to the
cording to measurement systems customary in construction principle require no grade rules for
Germany. Other measurement systems can be im- grading. However, the grade rules can be derived
plemented. Furthermore, measurement charts with as a result of the similar construction and applied to
body measurements taken from a person can be digitized pattern contours.
generated and applied. If the basic block has been GRAFIS incorporates a hereditary automatic. It
generated according to the construction principle captures which parts are derived from other parts;
GRAFIS provides for pattern development and pat- shows these interrelationships and considers them
tern generation for individual persons. in alterations. This structure is an important precon-
GRAFIS can be run on inexpensive PCs as used dition for the automatic pattern alteration service.
privately for example for word processing. Never- The generated patterns can be plotted in any scale
theless, it contains an extensive range of organisa- required. If a plotter is connected plotting ensues
tion, construction and design functions which allow immediately. Otherwise, a plot file is generated and
for all common construction and design tasks for saved to disk for plotting to another system.
pattern cutting, i.e.: The application of the system offers new construc-
• Open, save and delete collections, styles and tion technology. First pattern cutting and grading are
patterns. combined to one development operation in GRAFIS.
• Elementary functions for development of basic Patterns and basic blocks tested by a company for
blocks (construction of points, lines, curves, years must be implemented into the system first,
circle arcs, etc. with the option of processing working with the computer has to be learned.
body measurements and construction parame- Therefore, GRAFIS cannot be used without prepara-
ters). tion.
• Call prepared basic blocks for dresses, trou- The Fachhochschule Niederrhein, Hamburg and
sers, skirts, coats, sleeves and their display on Berlin offer support to interested clothing compa-
screen applying proportion classes and size re- nies, especially in form of students’ final work.
lated construction parameters.
• Modification of patterns (relocate darts, incor- With the low costs involved, GRAFIS offers a soft
porate ease, lower armhole, construct darts, approach to computerised pattern development
dart hood generation, spread, pivot, etc.). with low risk especially for small companies. It pre-
sents considerable performance features for be-
• Generation of measurement charts for stan-
spoke garments and small series. Private individuals
dard sizes and actual individuals.
apply the system to create fitting patterns or de-
• Digitizing of pattern perimeters and graded
velop patterns for companies. It also offers an inter-
nests with the option of further processing in
esting approach to organisation of overseas produc-
the system.
tion. For example, with installation of a GRAFIS
• Measure functions to determine co-ordinates,
workstation abroad and data transmission, a fast and
distances, lengths, areas, angles and outlines.
low-cost transfer of construction data could be set
• Derivation of construction measurement with
up.
a calculator function using body measurements
2 Introduction
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©Friedrich: GRAFIS - Textbook for Beginners, Edition 10/98
GRAFIS is used for education at colleges and voca- GRAFIS II
tional schools. Since 1993 it is increasingly applied in • Work with construction parameters and calcula-
the clothing industry, trade and design studios. tor functions,
Steilmann, Wattenscheid, uses the system for exam- • work with parts,
ple in their skirt department for first pattern cutting • hereditary automatic,
and grading. The data is then processed on GERBER • digitizing and grade rule grading,
systems for layplanning and cutter control. • style development with all production patterns,
• layplanning.
Some experts are of the opinion that because of its
concept and resulting capacity GRAFIS represents a GRAFIS III
new system generation for pattern construction and • GRAFIS construction programming language,
design. • knowledge about system installation and mainte-
nance,
The system is under constant development in con- • implementation of own measurement and sizing
junction with industry, trade and colleges. systems,
The Textbook • designing call lists.
This textbook is designed to allow for an autodidac-
tic introduction to GRAFIS and/or can be used as This textbook contains 10 chapters corresponding
teaching support material during GRAFIS training with the content of GRAFIS I. For GRAFIS II and III
courses. The GRAFIS training is structured in three the training courses offered are recommended. As
courses with the following content: teaching material for GRAFIS II and III the supple-
mentary chapters 11 to 17 are available.

GRAFIS I Prerequisites
• Work with collections and styles, For autodidactic learning of GRAFIS I basic com-
• generation of standard and individual measure- puter knowledge is a prerequisite. Application of a
ment charts, word-processing programme and basic knowledge
• calling of basic blocks, of Windows95 are a sufficient base.
• plotting/drawing of patterns in different sizes, GRAFIS is a CAD system for first pattern cutting
• modification functions such as seam allowance, grading and layplanning. Thorough knowledge in
relocate darts, spread, turn open and close, dart these areas are essential for the application of the
hood construction, transformation, mirror etc. system. GRAFIS replaces the pencil, ruler and
scissors of a pattern cutter but not his knowl-
edge about pattern construction !
Chapter 1 “Basic rules for working with GRAFIS, calling basic
blocks”
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©Friedrich: GRAFIS - Textbook for Beginners, Edition 10/98

Contents This chapter first explains important rules for work

1.1 Important rules for work with GRAFIS.............. 2 with GRAFIS. Then, you learn how to start and quit
1.2 Starting GRAFIS.................................................. 2 the GRAFIS system and the organisation of the
1.3 Calling basic blocks............................................. 5 GRAFIS screen.
1.4 Quit GRAFIS....................................................... 6 At the beginning of each paragraph, a short step-by-
1.5 Exercises ............................................................ 7 step guide is given to help with later quick refer-
______________________ ence. When working with the textbook for the first
time, please read these guides only briefly and fol-
low the explanations in the text.
__________________________________________

1.1 Important rules for work with GRAFIS

Function keys F1, ... ,F12 Backspace

Escape

Esc F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F9 F10 F11 F12 Print Scroll Pause Insert Home Page up
Delete End Page down

° ! „ § $ % & / ( ) = ? ´
Ins Hom Page Num . _
Tab ^ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 ß ´
Page
.
Q W E R T Z U I O P Ü * Del End 7 8 9
+
Shift Lock A S D F G H J K L Ö Ä # ‘ 4 5 6 +
> Y X C V B N M ; : _ 1 2 3
< , . - Enter
Shift Crtl Alt Alt Gr Strg 0 ´

Space Alt Gr Arrow keys

left/ right
Enter up/ down

Picture 1-1

The GRAFIS keyboard Backspace Delete digits to the left of the

The keys (picture 1-1) have the following meaning: cursor position
Escape End, step backwards, abort Function keys Call reserved functions (see
Tab Tab, only used during digitising F1, ... paragraph 1.3)
Shift Capitalisation/ Insert Toggle between overwrite and
upper keys insert mode
Shift Lock, Switch on capitalisation/ Delete Delete digit at insert position
Caps Lock upper keys (switch off with Pos1, Home Move cursor to home position
Shift) (mostly beginning of line)
Space(bar) Space, call Quick menu End Move cursor to end position
Alt Gr. Activate third key function (mostly end of line)
(alternate (bottom right of the key), e.g. Page up
group) for symbol „ \ „ on German Page Up
keyboard Page down
Enter, Return Confirmation, selection, start Page Down
of the program, Arrow keys Move screen and entry position
line feed and new line
2 Chapter 1 “Rules, call basic blocks”
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©Friedrich: GRAFIS - Textbook for Beginners, Edition 10/98

Mouse keys in GRAFIS To abort a text or value entry press <ESC>.

The data base is explained in detail in chapter 4.1.
Left mouse key: Right mouse key: It is organised in GRAFIS as follows:
• Selection • Abort
drives according to hard and software
• Click • Return
• Activate • End
A:,...,Z:
L M R collections saved as directories
styles saved as files
middle mouse key:
parts max. 250 parts per style
• Call Quick menu
objects points, lines, texts, hatching, con-
struction record, construction
parameter etc.
Picture 1-2
Function key assignment
In all texts of this book the symbols and are The function keys F1 to F12 are assigned special
used for the left and right mouse button. functions in GRAFIS. Here, an overview of the func-
The left mouse button is the “do-key” in GRAFIS tions with reference to the chapter where they are
and is used for selection, click and activating (picture explained in more detail:
1-2). The mouse is moved until the cursor (arrow or
Function chapter
crosshair) is on the position required and the left
F1 call on-line help and information 3.2
mouse button is clicked.
The right mouse button is the “retreat key” and is F2 zoom screen content in / out 3.1
used for abort / end of a function or return to the F3 move / rotate / flip parts 13.4
next higher level menu. The position of the cursor is F4 refresh screen 3.1
of no consequence. F5 part positioning 13.1
The middle mouse button opens the Extras pull- F6 centre screen content 3.1
down menu containing frequently used functions. If F7 Show / hide measurements 7.5
no middle mouse button is available or supported by F8 Toggle between pieces in their 13.4
the mouse driver, the space bar can be used. original position and their posi-
tion after dragging with <F3>
GRAFIS measurements
F11 calculator function for calcula- 12.2
GRAFIS works with the following measurements: tion of z values
length mm (millimetres)
distance
radius 1.2 Starting GRAFIS
body measures mm (millimetres)
Step-by-step guide to starting GRAFIS
angle degrees (right angle =90°)
direction ⇒ Click the relevant icon on the desktop or use
area cm2 (square centimetres) Windows-Explorer and double-click on gra-
fis.exe in the folder \GRAFIS
per cent 0-100%
⇒ Select the required construction system from
relative length 0-100%
the GRAFIS shell
Please note that all length and distance values are
⇒ Select the drive
displayed and entered in millimetres.
⇒ Select the collection
Further important rules ⇒ Enter the name for the new style into the ‘Style’
The decimal symbol is the point (.) not the dialogue box or double-click on an existing style
comma (,). Start GRAFIS according to the first step of the guide.
e.g.: 10.4 45.2° 67.9% 12.7cm2 The GRAFIS shell appears.
Text and value entries are to be completed with
<ENTER>.
Chapter 1 “Rules, call basic blocks” 3
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©Friedrich: GRAFIS - Textbook for Beginners, Edition 10/98

Select the different construction systems by clicking or moving the arrow keys < >
< >. Read the explanations in the right field of the screen.
Select the line „23-Werte-H.-Damen_V“ and press <ENTER>.

Picture 1-3

The GRAFIS shell Naming a new style

After having started GRAFIS, the GRAFIS shell (Pic- The name of a
ture 1-3) appears with a list of the installed con- style or collection
struction systems. The examples and exercises re- may contain a
late to the system „23-Werte-H.-Damen V“. The maximum of 8
information also applies to all other construction alphanumerical
systems. digits. This
As soon as you have selected a construction system, includes the
more information about it is displayed in the right numbers 0...9, the
part of the screen. The selected construction system letters A...Z, “-”
is started by pressing <ENTER> or double click [hyphen] and “_” [underline].
with on the respective line or clicking Start Pat- The style name A03HGTRD would be correct.
ternmaking System. Nevertheless, you should apply content relevant and
Now start the construction system „23-Werte-H.- systematic names as it is difficult to keep track of
Damen V“. your styles, otherwise.
After having started a construction system a window
for work with collections and styles appear (picture
1-4). Read the instructions in picture 1-4.
4 Chapter 1 “Rules, call basic blocks”
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©Friedrich: GRAFIS - Textbook for Beginners, Edition 10/98

Select the required drive from Select the required collection or style from
this list. The current drive is these lists or enter the name for the new
displayed. collection or style.

List of all available styles of

List of all available collections
the current collection. Select
of the current drive. The
the style you want to process,
current collection is
here.
highlighted. Select the
required collection, here.

Picture 1-4
Open the new style START in the collection dialogue box. After having clicked on OK or pressing
ANGEBOT: Click on ANGEBOT in the list of collec- <ENTER> GRAFIS is started and modification of
tions and enter the style name START into the style the style START can begin.
Chapter 1 “Rules, call basic blocks” 5
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©Friedrich: GRAFIS - Textbook for Beginners, Edition 10/98

The GRAFIS basic menu

The GRAFIS basic menu appears on screen (picture 1-5). Please look at picture 1-5 closely and compare it with
your screen.

GRAFIS Name of collection: ANGEBOT

Version 6.01 Style name: START
User 010003 Construction system: 23-Werte-Hohenstein
Damen V

Function strip of the basic menu

Move the mouse cursor onto the function strip and
move the mouse up and down.
The bar follows your movement.
With the left mouse button you select the function
beneath the bar. With the right mouse button you
return to this menu.

This field is available for

the actual construction.

Current part: Current size:

Number, name ____40_0

Picture 1-5
1.3 Calling basic blocks • “All standard
Overview: basic blocks
constructions“
Step-by-step guide lists all standard
All standard constructions
⇒ in the basic menu: click call constructions All private constructions
⇒ selection from the list -------------- one after the
⇒ click basic block required N*reset other. Constructions arranged to:
bodices and sleeves
⇒ click start in the menu or double- N= 1 • “All private con- skirts
click test run structions“ lists trousers
dresses, coats and sleeves
000 000 the operator
The function call grading generated con-
All basic blocks available in the se- -------------- structions. At the Picture 1-6
lected construction system can be partorganis beginning no private constructions are contained.
started wit the function call. -------------- • The lines under “constructions arranged to:“ list
Start GRAFIS with the construction call the standard constructions according to product
system „23-Werte-H.-Damen V“. link groups.
Click the function call in the basic Now double-click the line “All standard construc-
menu (highlighted in picture 1-5). The overview tions“. The list of the available basic blocks (picture
shown (picture 1-6) appears with the following 1-7) will be displayed.
meaning:
6 Chapter 1 “Rules, call basic blocks”
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©Friedrich: GRAFIS - Textbook for Beginners, Edition 10/98

Picture 1-7
The list of basic blocks 1.4 Quit GRAFIS
The columns have the following meaning:
succ. constructor’s name of construction Step-by-step guide
No. abbreviation ⇒ in the basic menu: open the pull-down menu File
001 Göd bodice a. H. with and click on Save, Save As... or Close
normal dart
The successive numbers 001 - 499 are reserved for To quit GRAFIS select between the following in the
standard constructions. Private constructions start pull-down menu File:
with number 501. The successive numbers appear in 1. save:
the overviews “All standard constructions“ and “All saves the current state of the style under the
private constructions“ only. current name
After having selected the basic block by clicking, a 2. save as:
mask with further information appears in the right saves the current state of the style under a new
part of the screen. Select various basic blocks and name and/or a new drive (disk) and/or a new
read the constructor’s explanation. collection.
The overview menu (picture 1-6) can be called at 3. close:
any time by clicking overview. if the style has not been saved a security ques-
tion appears.
Starting a basic block Click on File | close and confirm the security ques-
A selected basic block (picture 1-7) is called by click- tion. The style START is saved. You can now close
ing start or double-click. GRAFIS via File | Exit GRAFIS; work with a
Select the basic block “bodice a. H. with normal new/other style via File | Open or change the con-
dart” from the list “All standard constructions” and struction system.
click start. Your first basic block is displayed on
screen. Before calling a different basic block click on
N*reset in the basic menu and then click on test run.
The previously called basic block is thus reset.
Chapter 1 “Rules, call basic blocks” 7
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©Friedrich: GRAFIS - Textbook for Beginners, Edition 10/98

1.5 Exercises Create a new style called START_4 and call the
basic block
1st Exercise
020 Phl shirt dress
Start the construction system „23-Werte-H.- Da-
Finish your work on this style with File | Close and
men_V“ and create the style ROSE in the collection
do not save the style (click NO).
ANGEBOT. Quit working on the style ROSE via File
| Close. Open the menu for work with collections Call the style START_4 with File | Open. The style is
and styles via File | Open. When opening a new style empty as you have not saved the modifications to
GRAFIS creates an “empty” style which remains the style. Close the style.
existent after closing, see style ROSE.
Now delete the styles from the 1st exercise by
Open the styles TULIP, LILLY and NARCISS in the
selecting the style ROSE after File | Open and click-
same way.
ing on ‘Delete style’. Delete the styles TULIP, LILLY
2nd Exercise and NARCISS from Exercise 1, also. Confirm the
Call the style NARCISS from Exercise 1 by selecting security question and quit GRAFIS via File | Exit
the style and clicking OK (picture 1-4). Read the GRAFIS.
information about the basic blocks by clicking on the
4th Exercise
function call from the basic menu and selecting dif-
Start the construction system „15-Werte-HAKA-
ferent basic blocks.
Herren II“ and open a new style called START_2 in
3rd Exercise the collection ANGEBOT. This style is entered
Start the construction system „23-Werte-H.- under the menswear construction system and can,
Damen_V“ from the GRAFIS shell and create a new therefore, not be confused with the style of the
style named START_1. same name in the womenswear construction system
Call the basic block (3rd exercise).
009 TUD kimono Read the information about the basic blocks and
then call the basic block
01 Bel trousers after Belzig.

Save and close the style.

Create a new style named START_2 and call the
basic block
Practice the previously learned steps.
018 Brü skirt
in the same way. Save and close the style.
Call the style START_2. The basic block “skirt” is to
appear on screen. Save this style under the name
START_3: Select File | Save As, click the collection
required and enter the new style name.