Independent work

Name Surname: Khagan Khaligzada, Aytaj Hasanzada,

Gultaj Isgandarli, Nilufar Alizada, Elnur Bekir.
Faculty: MBA
Specialty: International logistics and supply chain
management
Group: E18-21
Teacher’s name surname: Aytakin Murtuzova
Subject: Green supply chain management and applied
technology
Theme: Analysing the Fast-fashion industry versus Green
Production
Contents
What Is Fast Fashion?............................................3
Understanding Fast Fashion..................................4
The Disadvantages of Fast Fashion.......................8
What is Green Manufacturing (Production)?......10
How is Green Manufacturing Beneficial?............11
How Can You Get Started?..................................11
The impact of Fast Fashion on the enviroment. .12
Excessive Usage of Water....................................12
Plastic Microfibers...............................................13
Excessive Consumption of Clothing.....................14
Usage of Viscose..................................................14
An Alternative to Viscose....................................15
Conclusion............................................................16
References:..........................................................17

What Is Fast Fashion?

Fast fashion is the term used to describe clothing designs that move
quickly from the catwalk to stores to take advantage of trends. The
collections are often based on styles presented at Fashion Week runway
shows or worn by celebrities. Fast fashion allows mainstream consumers
to purchase the hot new look or the next big thing at an affordable price.

Fast fashion became common because of cheaper, speedier

manufacturing and shipping methods, an increase in consumers' appetite
for up-to-the-minute styles, and the increase in consumer purchasing
power—especially among young people—to indulge these instant-
gratification desires. Because of all this, fast fashion is challenging the
established clothing labels' tradition of introducing new collections and
lines on an orderly, seasonal basis. In fact, it's not uncommon for fast-
fashion retailers to introduce new products multiple times in one week to
stay on trend.

 Fast fashion describes low-priced but stylish clothing that moves

quickly from design to retail stores to meet trends, with new
collections being introduced continuously.
 Innovations in supply chain management among retailers make
fast fashion possible.
 Zara and H&M are two giants fast fashion field.\, Others include
UNIQLO, GAP, and Topshop.
 Affordable prices and instant gratification for consumers, more
profits for companies, and the democratization of stylish clothing
are among fast fashion's benefits.
 On the downside, fast fashion is also associated with pollution,
waste, the promulgation of a "disposable" mentality, low wages,
and unsafe workplaces.
Understanding Fast Fashion
Shopping for clothing was once considered an event. Consumers would
save up to buy new clothes at certain times of the year. The style-
conscious would get a preview of the styles to come via fashion shows
that displayed new collections and clothing lines several months in
advance of their appearance in stores.

But that began to change in the late 1990s, as shopping became a form of
entertainment and discretionary spending on clothing increased. Enter
fast fashion—cheap, trendy knock-off garments, mass-produced at low
cost, that allowed consumers to feel as though they were wearing the
same styles that "walked the runway" or were sported by a sexy
entertainer.

Fast fashion is made possible by innovations in supply chain

management (SCM) among fashion retailers. Its goal is to quickly
produce cost-efficient articles of clothing in response to (or anticipation
of) fast-shifting consumer demands. The assumption is that consumers
want high fashion at a low cost. While the garments are often carelessly
made, they're not intended to be worn for years, or even multiple times.

Fast fashion follows the concept of category management, linking the

manufacturer with the consumer in a mutually beneficial relationship.
The speed at which fast fashion happens requires this kind of
collaboration, as the need to refine and accelerate supply chain processes
is paramount.

Fast Fashion Leaders

Major players in the fast-fashion market include Zara, H&M Group,
UNIQLO, GAP, Forever 21, Topshop, Esprit, Primark, Fashion Nova,
and New Look. Many companies are both retailers and manufacturers,
though they often outsource the actual production of clothing (see "The
Disadvantages of Fast Fashion").

In addition, traditional mass-market department stores such as Macy's, J.

C. Penney, and Kohl's in the U.S. have all taken a page from the fast-
fashion book. For their in-house and proprietary brands, they've shortened
design and production times to better compete in the market.

Here's a closer look at some of the leaders in fast fashion.

Zara
Spanish retail chain Zara, the flagship brand of textile giant Inditex, is all
but synonymous with fast fashion, serving as an exemplar of how to cut
the time between design, production, and delivery. Zara's designers can
sketch a garment—the company sells men's, women's, and children's
clothing—and have the finished piece appear on store racks in as little as
four weeks. It can modify existing items in as little as two weeks.

Its secret to this rapid turnover is its ownership of a relatively short

supply chain. Over half its factories are closely located to its corporate
headquarters in A Coruña, Spain—including countries like Portugal,
Turkey, and Morocco.

Its fast turnaround time aids another key Zara strategy: to stuff the stores
with more goods, offering the consumer an unparalleled amount of
choice. It produces 10,000-plus pieces annually, vs. an industry average
of 2,000 to 4,000 pieces.

In 2019, Zara's annual net sales (including those of Zara Home) were
€19.5 billion (about $22 billion).2 It has 2,138 stores in 96 countries, as
of mid-2020, but a strong online operation as well.3

H&M
Founded in 1947, Sweden-based H&M (short for Hennes & Mauritz ) is
one of the oldest fast-fashion companies. As of 2019, H&M operates in
74 countries with over 5,000 stores under its various brands which, along
with H&M, include the slightly more upscale COS, and the youth-
oriented Monki.

H&M functions like a department store, selling not only clothing for men,
women, and children but cosmetics and home furnishings. It is more
strictly a retailer: It does not own any factories but instead relies on 800
independent suppliers for its garments. However, these suppliers are
overseen by 30 H&M production offices, using state-of-the-art IT
systems to track inventory and communicate with corporate HQ.4 In
some cases, H&M buys all of their stock. The factories are based all
around Europe and Asia, with many located in Cambodia and
Bangladesh.

Part of H&M's strategy has also been not to offer just knockoffs, but
original creations, via its much-ballyhooed designer collaborations with
elite labels like Alexander Wang and Giambattista Vali. In early 2021, for
example, it launched a collection designed by Simone Rocha.
H&M's annual net sales in 2019 came to SEK 233 billion (about $24.8
billion).
Advantages and Disadvantages of Fast Fashion
The Advantages of Fast Fashion
Fast fashion is a boon for business. The constant introduction of new
products encourages customers to frequent stores more often, which
means they end up making more purchases. The retailer does not
replenish its stock—instead, it replaces items that sell out with new items.
Accordingly, consumers know to purchase an item they like when they
see it no matter what the price because it's not likely to be available for
long. And because the clothing is cheap (and cheaply made), it's easy to
get people back into stores or online to make fresh purchases.

Fast fashion is also responsible for big profits, especially if a

manufacturer is able to jump on a trend before the competition. The speed
at which fast fashion moves tends to help retailers avoid markdowns,
which cut into margins. If there are any losses, fast-fashion companies are
able to recover quickly by launching a new clothing line, design, or
product.

As for advantages for the consumer, fast fashion has enabled people to
get the clothes they want when they want them. Also, it's made clothing
more affordable—and not just any clothing, but innovative, imaginative,
stylish clothing. No longer is the latest look or being "well-dressed," or
having a large wardrobe the province of the rich and famous.

For that reason, advocate argue fast fashion has had a democratizing
influence on fashion—and on society. Even those of modest means can
constantly buy smart new clothes, indulge in fun or impractical items, and
wear something different every day.

The Disadvantages of Fast Fashion

Despite the advantages for customers, fast fashion has also been criticized
because it encourages a “throw-away” attitude. That's why it's also called
disposable fashion. Many fast fashionistas in their teens and early
twenties—the age group the industry targets—admit they're only wearing
their purchases once or twice.7

You could debate whether such a disposable mentality really results in

the economy: If multiple purchases of fast fashion garments, cheap as
they are, end up eventually costing the consumer more than buying a few
pricier ones that last longer.

Certainly, it costs the planet more. Critics contend that fast fashion
contributes to pollution, waste, and planned obsolescence, due to the
cheap materials and manufacturing methods it uses. The poorly made
garments don't age well, but they can't be recycled, since they're
predominantly (over 60%) made of synthetics. So when they're discarded,
they molder in landfills for years.8

Most fast fashion companies outsource the production of their goods—

usually to manufacturers based in developing countries—and some have
been none too stringent in overseeing their sub-contractors, nor
transparent about their supply chain. That's led to critics charging that fast
fashion is built on bad working conditions, poor pay, and other abusive,
exploitative practices. Because the clothing is made overseas, fast fashion
is also seen as contributing to a decline in the U.S. garment industry,
where labor laws and workplace regulations are stronger and wages are
better.

Fast fashion has also been criticized on intellectual property grounds,

with some designers alleging that their designs have been illegally
duplicated and mass-produced by the fast fashion companies.

Is Fast Fashion Bad for the Economy?

It's debatable whether fast fashion is bad for the economy. The apparel
industry, in general, has been growing by as much as 8% annually (aside
from the blip of the 2020 pandemic year)—and fast fashion leads the
apparel industry. It's estimated to grow nearly 7% to $38.21 billion in
2023. Fast fashion companies employ thousands in their offices, stores,
and factories and make millions in profits each year.

But some critics argue fast fashion has ultimately negative economic
results. It costs countries and their economies when workers are
underpaid or become sick or injured due to poor working conditions (two
charges laid at the fast fashion industry's door). The field's large carbon
footprint can also cost a lot in terms of environmental clean-up. Finally,
critics charge fast fashion encourages a wasteful, get-it-and-spend-it
attitude among consumers, at the price of good savings and investing
habits.
 What is Green Manufacturing (Production)?
Green manufacturing is the renewal of production processes and the
establishment of environmentally-friendly operations within the
manufacturing field. Essentially, it is the “greening” of manufacturing, in
which workers use fewer natural resources, reduce pollution and waste,
recycle and reuse materials, and moderate emissions in their processes.

Green manufacturers research, develop, or utilize technologies and

practices to lessen their impact on the environment. As detailed by the
Bureau of Labor Statistics, workers at green companies must have
specific manufacturing training in green technologies and practices such
as:

1. Energy from renewable sources. Workers may generate electricity,

heat, or fuel from renewable sources for use within their establishment.
These sources may include wind, biomass, geothermal, solar, ocean,
hydropower, landfill gas and municipal solid waste.
2. Energy efficiency. Workers will utilize specific technologies and

practices to improve energy efficiency within their establishment.

3. Pollution reduction and removal, greenhouse gas reduction, and

recycling. Workers will use green technologies and practices to:

 Reduce or remove the creation or release of pollutants in their
operations
 Reduce greenhouse gas emissions
 Reduce or eliminate the creation of waste materials
 Collect, reuse, recycle or compost waste materials
4. Natural resources conservation. Workers will use specific technologies

and practices to conserve natural resources, such as those related to

organic agriculture, land management, and soil, water, or wildlife
conservation.
In Goodwin’s Green Manufacturing Courses in CT, students learn about
the different practices and technologies needed in a green, clean, and lean
working environment. They develop the skills necessary to preserve and
restore environmental quality in manufacturing, as well as create a green
workplace for their companies. By studying local, state and national
green/clean/lean/sustainable resources in these courses, students can truly
learn how to prepare for the growing green workforce of the future.

How is Green Manufacturing Beneficial?

Not only does green manufacturing benefit the environment, but growing
numbers of businesses throughout the country are finding that a focus on
recycling and the reduction of waste can benefit their business as a whole.
Business owners are seeing improved bottom line and employees are
seeing an increase in motivation, morale, and public relations.

Green manufacturing has also become a vehicle for long-term job

creation in the United States. According to a recent Quality Magazine
article, green manufacturing currently accounts for 26 percent of all clean
energy jobs. What’s more, clean and green manufacturing created 35,382
jobs between the years 2003 and 2010 while the rest of the industry shed
in numbers. Because of their specialized skills base, clean economy
workers earn 13 percent higher salaries than other workers of the U.S.
economy.

How Can You Get Started?

Green manufacturing jobs require a strong core skillset and an added

layer of green knowledge. These both will stem from the proper
manufacturing education and experience in the industry. Enrolling in the
right Manufacturing School with specific coursework in Lean and Green
Manufacturing will be your first step towards a successful green
manufacturing career.

The impact of Fast Fashion on the enviroment

As an individual strolls into a store and purchases a few items at the mall,
a thought that may cross our mind is how it is possible for such affordable
clothing to be made in mass quantities. Of course, the fast fashion
industry and its respective factories found a way. Among the various
issues regarding fast fashion and how its industry has been able to boom,
the various destructive effects on the environment remain a major
concern. To manufacture clothes, the fast fashion industry exports its
production business overseas for cheap labor to avoid the high minimum
wages implemented by many developed governments. Even though
typical consumers in the North American market may be able to afford
clothes for a cheaper price, fast fashion comes with a price tag with a
handful of consequences. Thus, it falls upon us - the consumers - to
explore alternatives to tackle the neglected environmental impact of such
consumerism.

Excessive Usage of Water

The fashion industry consumes one tenth of all of the water used
industrially to run factories and clean products. To put this into
perspective, it takes 10,000 liters of water to produce one kilogram of
cotton or approximately 3,000 liters of water for one cotton shirt.
Furthermore, textile dyeing requires toxic chemicals that subsequently
end up in our oceans. Approximately 20% of the wastewater worldwide is
attributed to this process, which accumulates over time. As many
factories moved overseas as stated previously, they may be in countries
without strict environmental regulations, resulting in untreated water to
enter the oceans. Regrettably, the wastewater created is extremely toxic
and in many cases, cannot be treated to become safe again.

Plastic Microfibers
Next, synthetic materials are the primary culprits that cause plastic
microfibers to enter our oceans. To be exact, approximately 35% of all
microplastics are from these synthetic materials. To further lower the
price, producers turn to materials that may be of low quality. For
example, many of the fibers are made of polyester, consisting of plastic
and tend to release far more carbon emissions than cotton. Furthermore,
plastic is slow to degrade in the ocean until a long time has passed. When
plastic finally breaks down, it creates a toxic substance with a harmful
impact on the marine ecosystems. As these plastic microfibers cannot be
removed, they end up in the human food chain through aquatic life,
causing many negative health effects. There are a variety of ways they
can enter our ocean - most commonly from our usage of the washing
machine. Though it is evident that the washing machine has been an
essential appliance in our households, it’s important to wash full-loads
when possible to minimize excess consumption of water.
Excessive Consumption of Clothing
Due to how affordable the clothing is and how new trends convince
consumers to seek out more, the value of clothes may diminish in the
eyes of consumers. As of 2019, the current report shows that 62 million
metric tons of apparel were consumed globally. Over time, the amount
that our society has consumed has skyrocketed in recent decades.
Although it may be beneficial to our economy, more items tend to end up
at the landfills because the lower quality clothes are worn out only after a
few washes and this demands for more new clothes. Amongst a variety of
issues present, the two main concerns involve piles of clothing in landfills
and incinerated clothing. Whether it is simply growing out of the clothes
or that the clothes are no longer in style, a significant proportion of the
population opts to throw away their clothes instead of donating them.
Additionally, due to the number of cut outs for the clothing, a large
amount of materials are being wasted as they cannot be used any further
for one certain type of production. 57% of all discarded clothing ends up
in landfill; the landfills start to pile up, then the trash is moved to an area
to be incinerated. This process poses multiple public health and
environmental dangers to the people who live in nearby communities as
toxic substances or large amounts of poisonous gases are released as a
result of burning landfill. Despite new technology creating filters to
capture the pollutants, they remain present and often are turned into a
dangerous substance, which later returns back to the landfills and pollutes
our air.

Usage of Viscose
From the beginning of cellulosics, viscose was introduced in 1890 as a
cheaper alternative to cotton for production. Viscose, also known as
rayon, is a common cellulosic fiber made from wood pulp. It has
extremely detrimental effects on the environment such as the usage of
harmful chemicals and the unethical resourcing for the material. As the
companies use toxic chemicals, others are worried about other impacts
beyond environmental factors For instance, the carbon disulphide that is
used in viscose fiber production leads to lethal health side effects on
workers as well. Thus, perhaps it is not surprising that viscose
consequently results in a larger amount of greenhouse gas emissions than
cotton production.

An Alternative to Viscose
Instead of using viscose, there are alternatives that we can opt for such
as more sustainable cellulosic fibers. In Finland, a company named
Spinnova has transformed wood fibers into recyclable fibers without
harmful chemicals such as caustic soda, carbon disulphide, and sodium
hydroxide that are commonly found in viscose. Inspired from the web-
weaving by spiders, the method is applied with wood fiber material. It
reportedly uses 99% less water than cotton production. The method is
particularly promising because it is far safer, uses less resources, and
provides support that sourcing sustainably is not impossible for many
other companies. With a growing concern among the general population,
many start-ups have taken on the challenge of sourcing cellulosics from a
myriad of other sources such as orange, milk and coffee. For instance,
modal from the 1950s and lyocell from the 1970s are both revolutionary
by being biodegradable, using less fiber, less dye and better for moisture
absorption or moisture-wicking than many other fibers. As a result, they
have grown in popularity with consumers and a vast amount of
companies nowadays. Though the issue of sustainability is evident, there
have been a variety of innovations over time that are moving the industry
in the right direction. As the movement gains momentum, we have the
ability to make a significant change. By supporting companies such as
Spinnova, we actively are building towards a cleaner and greener future,
one step at a time.

Conclusion

The fashion industry is currently responsible for more annual carbon

emissions than all international flights and maritime shipping combined.
If the industry maintains its course, an increase of 50% in greenhouse gas
emissions is expected within a decade. By analyzing the root causes of
the problem, the next steps are easier to understand as we can connect the
dots and create solutions. A few possible solutions were listed in the
article, but some others include mindful purchasing of fast fashion brands
and supporting reform. If you are not entirely sure of which brands to
support, you are not alone. Doing background research on brands before
purchasing clothes can help you become a more informed consumer and
steer your purchases in a manner that aligns with your environmental
values. The fashion industry has caused a substantial amount of damage
to our environment. However, if we start to take proactive steps towards
advocating for a green-friendly fashion industry and becoming an
environmentally-conscious consumer, we can finally slow down climate
change.
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https://www.igi-global.com/dictionary/green-strategy-for-production-of-
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https://www.referenceforbusiness.com/small/Eq-Inc/Green-
Production.html
https://goodonyou.eco/what-is-fast-fashion/
https://psci.princeton.edu/tips/2020/7/20/the-impact-of-fast-fashion-on-
the-environment
https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/what-is-fast-fashion