Hemisphe Pheres: Uncover in Three Perfect Days

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Hemisphe pheres

THE FIRST ANNUAL FOOD ISSUE


A FOODIE S TOUR OF SINGAPORE FINDING (AND EATING) THE WORLD S HOTTEST PEPPER THE HEMI Q&A WITH ALICE WATERS GODMOTHER OF ORGANIC FOOD

AUG 2011 THREE PERFECT DAYS: STOCKHOLM A CULINARY TOUR OF SINGAPORE THE HEMI Q&A WITH ALICE WATERS

UNCOVER STOCKHOLM IN THREE PERFECT DAYS

JEFF BRIDGES NEW ALBUM THE OBAMAS IN IRELAND AND THE BEST HOTELS FOR STARGAZING

FOOD & DRINK

COTSWOLDS, ENGLAND

Country Cooking
Russells, an English country eatery, oers a heartfelt tribute to the comfort cuisine and the hearty souls of the Cotswolds region
BY MATTHEW WEXLER

FRESH HEIR An appetizer with watermelon salad feta cheese and g

IN AN AGED BUILDING set in the town of Broadway, amid the rolling hills of west-central England, Russells feels a li le bit like the se ing of a pastoral novel from a century ago. The landscape is do ed with grazing sheep and honey-stoned co ages, and the keys to each of the propertys seven guest rooms are of the old-style skeleton variety. But the main a raction of this charming spot (the full name of which is actually Russells, a restaurant with rooms) is a dining experience, neither historical nor modern, in which local ingredients are used to provide a new perspective on countryside classics. Russells is housed in the former workshop of one Sir Gordon Russell, a furniture designer of the Arts and Cra s school who was raised in this Cotswolds town more than a century ago, and who drew his aesthetic inspiration in part from his experiences on the front lines during World War I. He opened his workshop here in 1923. Years later, he recalled

PHOT GRA PHOTOGRAPH TY INFR D HEINZE PHOTOGRAPH BTY WINFRIED HEINZE PHOTOGRAPH BTY WINFRIED HEINZE O NFR EIN N

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM AUGUST 2011

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THE WORLD || Food & Drink

thinking that my generation, which had destroyed so much lovely work, had a constructive duty to hand on to those coming a er us good things of our own creation. Its a charge Russells owner Barry Hancox and his business partner Andrew Riley took very seriously when they began refurbishing Russells derelict showrooms, workshops and offices in 2003. After more than a year of hard work, we had a great feel for the property, says Hancox. It had a great vibe. Originally it was going to be a restaurant, but we had the rooms upstairs and it evolved into something greater than we ever anticipated. Hancox and Reilly enlisted the services of chef Matthew Laughton, described by Hancox as a family chap who really loves food, to oversee the menu, which features dishes like a roast Cornish pollock with clams and samphire emulsion, and beef and horseradish sausages with mustard mash and red onion gravy. Laughton also oversees the newly launched Workshop, a more casual venue oering decidedly throwback British culinary experiences. Menu items include a retro-style Canteen roast lunch, featuring a fish or meat of the day, a let of haddock ba ered and fried and served on a bed of crispy chips, and vintage throwbacks like beef drippings and parsley on toasta nod to resourceful men and women making the best of hard times. Laughton uses produce from nearby farms to create his dishes, along with tasty house-made condiments like spiced-apple chutney and chili jam presented plainly alongside local cheeses like Shropshire Blue and St. Oswald. While the menu is stocked with nostalgic creations, the point of this so-called comeback cuisine goes well beyond the food itself. Russell once said of the Cotswolds, I never cease to be grateful to the builders of these li le towns and villages. They taught me to try to apply the searching test of honesty to all work and actions. Thats a philosophy worthy of a comeback.

NORTH COTSWOLD BREWERY FESTIVAL BREWERY STANWAY BREWERY CHELTENHAM GLOUCESTER M5 SEVERN VALE BREWING CO. STROUD BREWERY BATTLEDOWN BREWERY

NAILSWORTH BREWERY

COTSWOLD SPRING BREWERY

Rhapsody in Brew
CULTURE SHOCK

Local beermakers concoct really real ale


CASK ALEor real ale, as its come to be known, thanks in part to the U.K.-wide Campaign for Real Aleis brewed from traditional ingredients, conditioned in casks, unpasteurized and free from added bubble-producing carbon dioxide. Unsurprisingly, few places have

type of pear liquor used to wash the rind) to multiple honors. Don t miss out on these Martell has been instrumental in cheesy attractions ervi preserving the Gloucestershire heritag heritage cattle used to make The cheesemakers of c the cheeses with the Single va the Cotswolds despite variety holding the being few in number coveted European have performed Union s Protected admirably at the Designation of Origin. annual British Another local THE STINKING BISHOP Cheese Awards. favorite last year s Charles Martell for Supreme Champion instance has ridden his Single is Golden Cenarth an organic and Double Gloucester as well soft cow s milk cheese. This as his Stinking Bishop (a wellparticular blend was an accident deserved name derived from the discovered when cheesemaker

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AUGUST 2011 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY MATTHEW WEXLER (STINKING BISHOP)

The Ultimate Steak Experience!


RAISE A GLASS Above the brewhouse at Stroud Brewery opposite Jon Kemp of Nailsworth Brewery

St. Elmo Steak House McKendricks stelmos.com Steak House


INDIANAPOLIS, IN 317.635.0636
mckendricks.com
PROPRIETORS: Steve Huse & Craig Huse

adopted the Real Ale ethos as avidly as the Cotswolds. In Gloucestershire, a push by an alliance of brewers to get pubs to serve local beer made in small batches from organic, local ingredients has paid o, resulting in what is now known as the Gloucestershire Ale Trail (see map). Visitors looking to get real can swing by Ba ledown Brewery, Cotswold Spring Brewery, Festival Brewery, Nailsworth Brewery, North Cotswold Brewery, Severn Vale Brewing Company, Stanway Brewery and/or Stroud Brewery to sample the good stu. Bo oms up!

ATLANTA, GA 770.512.8888

III Forks
iiiforks.com

PROPRIETORS: Claudia & Doug McKendrick,

Rick Crowe

DALLAS, TX 972.267.1776 HOUSTON, TX 713.658.9457

Malones

malonesrestaurant.com

PROPRIETOR: Chris Vogeli

LEXINGTON, KY 859.335.6500

PROPRIETORS: Brian McCarty & Bruce Drake

PROPRIETOR: Oz Rogers

Mannys

Metropolitan Grill
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mannyssteakhouse.com

MINNEAPOLIS, MN 612.339.9900

SEATTLE, WA 206.624.3287

PROPRIETOR: Ron Cohn

PROPRIETORS: Phil Roberts, Peter Mihajlov

& Kevin Kuester

RingSide Steakhouse
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a mysterious culture growing on a wheel of Caer li a recipe passed down from his great-grandmother. Seductively pungent the cheese ranges from soft in the summer months to rmer and more robust in the winter. While these stinky newcomers are gaining ground cheddar remains king and visitors would be remiss not to try any of the local varieties such as the Extra Mature Cheddar from JA & E Montgomery. Wherever you go make sure to bring sealable bags if you plan on taking some home or the Bishop won t be the only thing stinking.

Grill 225
grill225.com

CHARLESTON, SC 843.266.4222

PORTLAND, OR 503.223.1513

PROPRIETORS: Jan, Scott & Craig Peterson

PROPRIETOR: Nick Palassis EXECUTIVE CHEF: Demetre Castanas

Gene & Georgetti


geneandgeorgetti.com

Benjamin Steak House


benjaminsteakhouse.com

CHICAGO, IL 312.527.3718

PROPRIETORS: Tony & Marion Durpetti

NEW YORK, NY 212.297.9177

PROPRIETOR: Benjamin Prelvukaj CHEF: Arturo McLeod

INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

www.GreatSteakofNA.com

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