All Thirteen
All Thirteen
All Thirteen
20 21 22 23 24 25 LGO 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Candlewick Press
99 Dover Street
Somerville, Massachusetts 02144
www.candlewick.com
In memory of Saman Gunan, who gave his life to help others
And for my father, Amnaj Soontornvat
Contents
1. A Typical Saturday 1
The Boys of the Wild Boars 3
This Is Mae Sai 4
2. A Sky Full of Water 9
3. The Cave of the Sleeping Lady 13
Tham Luang Cave System with Cross Sections 16
4. First on the Scene 21
5. Trapped 27
A Cave Is Born 30
A Karst Cave System 31
6. The Cave Man 35
7. The Dangers of Cave Diving 43
Rules to Dive By 48
8. Empty Bellies, Clear Minds 51
Meditation 54
9. At War with the Water 57
10. The Problem Solvers 61
The Spirits Around Us 66
11. The Sump Divers 71
12. Coach Ek 79
Thailand’s Stateless People 82
Buddhism in Thailand 86
13. The Water Expert 89
14. The Rescue Stalls 97
Stay Cool 100
15. The Beautiful Game 103
Stages of Hypothermia 105
16. Going Back In 109
17. Creating a Diversion 115
18. One Last Try 123
Rebreathe, Reuse, Recycle 124
19. “Brilliant” 129
20. Now What? 135
21. The Get-It-Done Crew 143
22. Panic 149
23. A Tragic Loss 157
24. Risking It All 161
25. A Very Important Meeting 169
Tham Luang Dive-Rescue Plan 172
26. Stage One: Rehearsals 175
Practice Makes Perfect 180
27. Stage Two: “Today Is D-Day” 183
Fall Asleep, Wake Up in Bed 186
28. Alone in the Dark 189
29. Mission Possible 197
How the Rescuers Got the Boys Out 198
30. The Sleeping Lady Has the Final Say 203
31. It Should Not Have Worked 213
In Thailand, as in most of the world, soccer is not just a sport; it’s a total
obsession. The scuffle and shouts of pickup matches can be heard at all
hours of the day, whether in an urban metropolis like Bangkok or here,
in the small town of Mae Sai.
Practice finishes, and the boys huddle together, drinking water and
wiping the sweat off their faces. It’s a hot day, but at least there are clouds
to shield them from the brutal sun. Talk shifts from World Cup rivalries to
what they’re going to do next. Everyone’s eyes turn to twenty-five-year-
old assistant coach Ekkapol Chantawong, whom everyone calls Coach
Ek. He’s been promising to take the team on an excursion to a local cave,
and all the boys want to know if their outing is still on.
Being a Wild Boar means more than just getting together to play
soccer a couple of times a week. The team is tight-knit, even though they
go to different schools. The kids on the team have a reputation for being
adventurous and outdoorsy, never sitting still for long, always ready to
hop on their bikes to go exploring together. Coach Ek encourages the
boys to be athletes beyond the soccer field, and he organizes regular hik-
ing and bicycling expeditions for them. They often go swimming after
practice, either at the neighborhood activity center or at local swimming
holes. On the team’s last outing — a strenuous bike ride to the top of a
nearby mountain, Doi Tung — they discussed what their next trip would
be. This area of Thailand is well known for its caves, the most famous of
which is Tham Luang Nang Non — the Cave of the Sleeping Lady — and
they had agreed to go there together.
Some teammates have to back out of the fun. They have too much
homework, or their parents have made them promise to come home for
this reason or that. But twelve of the boys are still up for the adventure.
Night reminds the team that it’s his birthday. His parents are having
a party that evening, complete with food, a big cake, and lots of friends
and family. The team is invited, too, but they can’t show up late, and they
definitely can’t show up covered in cave mud.
Coach Ek tells them, “We have to be out by five o’clock.”
Everyone agrees. They’ll go for only an hour or so, and then they’ll
head back.
The boys buy snacks to top up their energy before the bike ride to
the cave. They go for the good stuff: junk food, like chips, soda, and
2 ALL THIRTEEN
their favorite candy bar, called Beng-Beng. And they scarf it down before
setting out.
They laugh and call out to each other as they cycle along. The oldest
boys — Thi, Night, and Night’s cousin Nick — are good friends with the
coach. Fourteen-year-old Adul is quite close to Coach Ek, too. Adul is
the only non-Buddhist in the group, and he is devoted to the Christian
church he attends in Mae Sai, where he sings and plays guitar. The other
parishioners raised money to send him to a good local school, where he
is at the top of all his classes.
4 ALL THIRTEEN
Wat Doi
Wao
MAE SAI
Mae Sai Prasitsart School
t a i n s
M YA N M A R
THAILAND
Pha Mee M o u n
Village
C H INA
Area of main map
Cave Entrance
Tham MYANMAR
Luang Tham Luang Nang Non Chiang Rai L AOS
Forest Park CHIANG RAI
PROVINCE
n
Sai Tong
N o
TH AIL AND
0 1 mi Bangkok
N C AMB O D IA
0 1 km
Andaman
n g
Pedaling with him are fellow eighth-graders Note and Tern. Bew
weaves among his friends, driving his moped. Next come the inseparable
thirteen-year-olds, who go to school together: Dom, who is the team cap-
tain; Mix; and Pong, a jokester who isn’t as serious about class as the
other boys. The “little” boys work to keep up: thirteen-year-old Mark,
who is the smallest member on the team, and eleven-year-old, chubby-
cheeked Titan, the youngest player, who begged his parents to let him
join the Wild Boars. Despite the differences in their ages, these twelve
boys are very good friends. They hardly ever get into arguments, though
A TYPICAL SATURDAY 5
The entrance to Tham Luang–Khun Nam Nang Non Forest Park
they do love to tease little Titan, who usually takes it all in stride with
his big smile.
As the boys cycle on, paved roads give way to dirt, and neighbor-
hood dogs trot out to greet them. The Nang Non mountain range rises
up behind them, a blurry dark green, as they ride past homes and apart-
ments, repair shops, and open-front stores selling furniture, restaurant
equipment, and plastic toys.
6 ALL THIRTEEN
After a few minutes on their bikes, the boys are on the one-lane roads
that wind through farms and into the mountains. The Wild Boars love
these trips, when they can leave behind their stacks of homework and get
up into the fresh green hills that hover over their neighborhoods.
The boys’ parents are happy that their children are adventurous. It’s
much better for them to be out in nature, exercising their bodies and
minds, than stuck at home watching a screen or wandering under the
artificial lights of a shopping mall. Besides, they’re with Coach Ek, who
is much more than just a coach.
Ek believes that his duties don’t end on the field. He feels that in
order to be a good leader, he needs to understand the boys as individuals.
In turn, they sometimes listen to their coach more than they do their own
parents. But rather than being annoyed, the parents are grateful that their
sons have such a good influence. They trust Ek deeply, and he even baby-
sits for them sometimes. He is young enough to feel like another son or
nephew to the boys’ families, but he carries the wisdom and maturity of
someone who has been through too many of life’s hardships. They hope
their sons can learn to be like him. Luckily, the boys want the same thing.
Tham Luang is only a few miles from the soccer field, and the team
turns off the main road after about half an hour. As they pump up the
gravelly track to the entrance, birds swoop through groves of banana and
lychee trees. Yellow-and-brown-spotted butterflies flit past as pineapple
fields give way to thick jungle that shades the road. The last bit of the
bike ride is all uphill: muggy and sweaty. Soon the team is gratefully
walking their bikes toward the cool, dark mouth of the cave. They set
their bikes on the ground outside and swap their cleats for flip-flops.
Coach Ek leads the boys up to the entrance, bringing along the supplies
he’s packed: a coil of thin rope and flashlights. They walk past a faded
sign warning visitors not to enter during the rainy season, as the cave
floods at that time.
But they don’t pay the sign much attention. It’s only June 23, and the
heavy rains are still weeks away.
A TYPICAL SATURDAY 7
Clouds hover over the Nang Non mountain range.
2.
A Sky Full of Water
THE PARK RANGERS who work at Tham Luang Nang Non Forest Park
have a light day on June 23. During busy times, they lead tours into the
cave, guiding people into the impressive entrance chambers and giving
talks about how the structures have formed. But now that the high season
for tourists has passed, Tham Luang will see only a handful of visitors,
taking selfies or paying their respects to the shrine at the cave entrance.
Pretty soon, visitors to Tham Luang will stop completely. Monsoon
season officially started in May, but the steady, heavy rains come in July.
Thailand has three seasons: hot, cool, and rainy (also called monsoon
season). Here in Southeast Asia, the monsoon rains can be torrential.
In the summer, as the sun heats the land, moist air blows in from the
ocean and settles over the continent. In northern Thailand, the clouds
will gather, full and low around the mountains, where they will hover
for the whole season. Most days, in the afternoon or evening, the clouds
will crack open and the rain will fall. In just a few months, the skies
will dump 90 percent of the year’s rainfall. Walking outside in this type
of rain can feel like walking through a waterfall. The
water barrels down in thick sheets, making umbrellas
and raincoats almost useless. And it falls and falls for
months. In town, streets and alleys become little canals
as all that rain drains downhill.
The monsoon brings the waters of life. The moun-
tains glow green through the gray deluge. The rains run
down through the lush forests, carrying nutrients into
the surrounding farmland, making the soil rich and ripe
for growing crops. As soon as the rains stop, the fields
will burst with bounty: coffee, fruit, vegetables, and
acres of rice. This area, once its own kingdom, is called
Lanna, the Land of a Million Rice Fields.
The rainy season is usually predictable. People who
live in low areas build their houses up on stilts, and
anyone living close to a river or stream builds their
home far away from the banks, knowing how they
can flood. But even with preparation, floods can over-
whelm whole towns, trapping people in their homes,
washing away roads, and causing deadly landslides in
the mountains.
A changing climate has been making the seasons
less predictable. The warming planet has warmed the
air, too. Warmer air can hold more moisture, making
wet areas wetter and dry areas drier. All over southern
Asia, rainfalls have become more extreme.
In the days leading up to June 23, the area around
Tham Luang cave has had some unusually high rain.
And it looks as though it’s in for more. The clouds that
have hung over the mountain all day drop lower and
lower.
The rain begins beating down.
10 ALL THIRTEEN
Crop fields at the foot of the Nang Non mountains
14 ALL THIRTEEN
meditating in the darkness within. A mountain holds power, and a cave
provides a way to tap into that power. But as the story of the Sleeping
Lady shows, that power can be both enticing and dangerous.
As the boys step inside Tham Luang’s impressive entrance chamber,
they breathe in the damp air and the smell of wet, mossy limestone. The
ceiling soars to about 100 feet, more than 30 meters, and the whole cham-
ber is big enough to hold a 747 jet. Thick stalactite spires hang down like
dragon teeth. Over thousands of years, water that dripped down from the
ceiling left behind tiny deposits of calcium minerals that hardened into
the sparkling formations. When the dripping water lands on the cave
floor, it can also build a stack of minerals that grows from the ground up,
called a stalagmite. When a stalactite and a stalagmite meet, they can
form a column or even a flowing curtain of shiny stone.
The Wild Boars gaze up at the slick cave walls. Twenty feet (six
meters) up, a dark line of mud marks the highest level of the last flood.
The floor of the cavern is dry and packed down by heavy foot traffic.
The first 2,000 feet (600 meters) of the Tham Luang cave system are
made up of big, airy rooms like the entrance chamber. Beyond this point,
the cave narrows. Some sections force visitors into a crouch and then a
crawl, where the ceiling drops to just a few feet high. Here, cavers are
well beyond the “twilight zone,” the part of the cave where light from the
outside world still reaches. Without a flashlight the darkness is complete.
If you are claustrophobic, this is where you turn around.
But the boys aren’t deterred by the tight spaces, and there are no bar-
riers, gates, or ropes to stop them from continuing on. The cave winds
along, down steep and slippery sections. About one mile in, the route
makes a sharp hairpin turn and dumps into a three-way junction called
Sam Yaek.
From where the boys stand, the right-hand path leads to a lesser-
explored stretch known as the Monk’s Series. On the left, an opening low
in the wall leads to the main cave. In caving lingo, the phrase “it goes”
means that a passage continues on, without a dead end. To the left, Tham
Past the junction, Tham Luang pitches its visitors into more tight squeezes.
Even without claustrophobia, you might get uneasy when the walls close
in tight enough to force you to slither forward on your belly. You might
feel out of your element here, thinking of all the miles of rock both above
and beneath. Maybe you imagine getting trapped, being buried under
millions of tons of stone. It’s not a pleasant feeling when you still have
miles of passage between you and the exit.
Or maybe you are someone who views being inside a cave quite
differently. A cave is one of the most serene places you can go. It’s no
wonder that Buddhist monks have been known to seek out caves for long
meditations. It is cool and fairly quiet. Without all the distractions that
surround you aboveground, you can focus on the small things that you
usually never notice, like the soft echo of your breath against the rocks.
And yet a cave is not sterile. A cave has a life of its own. In Tham
Luang, if you hold quite still, you can feel it “breathing,” a light whisper
of air flowing through the system. Maybe being this deep in the earth
gives you the same perspective as astronauts floating high above it: a
sense that you are a very tiny part of a very large universe.
The boys wriggle through tight spaces that cavers call squeezes and
boulder chokes, where stones that fell from the ceiling long ago have
clogged up the passages. They tromp up and down sandy, gravelly slopes.
Their bare toes, toughened by years of shoeless soccer matches, grip
18 ALL THIRTEEN
of it barefoot. In a moment like this, you have to stop and soak it all in.
Coach Ek says that the cave keeps going beyond the pool. But if they
want to see it, they’ll have to get wet again, and this time they’ll have
to dunk their heads under. Do the boys want to go? Or should they head
back?
Thi, the only one on the team wearing a watch, tells the others what
time it is. They have spent almost three hours inside already. If they want
to be out of the cave in time for Night to make his party, they are going to
have to absolutely fly back home. They decide to turn around.
Everyone scrambles and squirms back toward the entrance. They
swim back across the water they crossed on their way in. They hustle
forward in single file, trying to go as quickly as possible without twisting
an ankle on the slippery rocks.
And then Coach Ek hears Bew, who is up at the front of the group,
call back to him.
“Coach, come see! There’s water here!”
Coach squeezes past the others to the front of the line.
“Hey, are we lost?” one of the boys behind him asks. “Did we take a
wrong turn?”
“No,” Coach Ek assures them. “We can’t be lost. There’s only one
way out, for sure.”
The boys point to the source of their confusion. They should be
approaching Sam Yaek, the three-way junction, but now there is a pool of
swirling water that wasn’t there before.
The water completely blocks the way forward. The passage they came
through is somewhere under the turbulent water, but they can’t see it.
Tham Luang is flooding.
22 ALL THIRTEEN
Sangwut leads his team into Tham Luang. Despite the heavy rains
pummeling the mountain outside, the first chambers of the cave are com-
pletely dry. An hour and a half later, Sangwut’s team arrives at Sam Yaek,
the bowl-shaped chamber where the three main branches of the cave
meet. To their left and lower down, a passage leads southwest.
At least, it usually does.
Sam Yaek is full of water. The left-hand passage sits low in the cham-
ber, and water that has pooled in the bottom of the junction has covered
up the opening completely.
Even more discouraging, Sangwut finds footprints and sees a pile of
backpacks and sandals near the junction. He cups his hands around his
mouth and shouts for the children. He calls up into Monk’s Series as loud
as he can, but he hears nothing back. With a sinking feeling in his stom-
ach, Sangwut understands that the team must have gone left and are now
trapped by the water pooled over the opening to the passageway.
The Sirikorn rescue specialists arrive at Tham Luang and enter the
cave at 1:00 a.m. Twenty-two rescue workers, park staff, and even some
Royal Thai Army soldiers who were in the area carry ropes and air can-
isters into the cave, back to Sam Yaek. At the junction, Sirikorn’s divers
strap on their equipment. With no wet suits, the cold water is a shock
as they sink in and begin to look for the left-hand opening. They surface
and dive again and again in the swirling water and finally manage to
locate the hole through the muddy murk. But the opening is too small.
The divers’ bulky air tanks, mounted on their backs, ram against the top
of the passage.
The Sirikorn divers use scuba gear for recovering bodies from the
bottom of lakes or rivers, not for diving through flooded caves. The
divers aren’t equipped to make it through the narrow passage. They
decide to halt the diving and hike back out to the cave entrance to talk
through a plan.
When they emerge into the open air at 4:00 a.m., Sangwut is sur-
prised to see that the number of family members waiting outside has
multiplied. When the families see the rescue workers come out — with no
children in tow — they are furious.
“What are you doing?” they shout. “How can you stop searching
now?”
Some of the boys’ cousins who have been inside the cave many times
try to barge past the rescue workers. “We know the way!” they say. They
are ready to pull the boys out themselves, if that’s what it takes.
The boys’ mothers and fathers call into the cave. Their voices crack
with anguish. “My son, I’m here! Come home! I’m waiting for you!”
Sangwut’s heart breaks to hear them, and he understands their frus-
tration. He calms the families, but he doesn’t tell them about the water
at Sam Yaek junction. He doesn’t want them to panic. Instead, he tells
them that the team has come out of the cave because it’s so late, and they
will resume the search first thing in the morning. The families grudgingly
accept this explanation, but they do not leave the scene.
24 ALL THIRTEEN
The governor of Chiang Rai province, Narongsak Osatanakorn, has
arrived on-site. He calls a meeting for all the rescue workers in one of the
park headquarters buildings. They agree to pause the rescue because it’s
too dangerous to dive without proper equipment. They also agree that
they must shut down the cave. No one can go in or out without passing a
checkpoint. The last step they agree to will fall on the governor’s shoul-
ders to carry out: they must tell the parents that their children have been
trapped by floodwaters inside. Even though the families are sure to panic,
they need to know the truth.
Sangwut leaves the meeting, the heavy clouds over his heart match-
ing those in the sky. He knows this cave very well. And he knows that
when water reaches Sam Yaek at this time of the year, it doesn’t go down
until after the rainy season is over.
That night Sangwut knows they are in for a long, long rescue.
THE WILD BOARS are only about a mile from the cave entrance, about
an hour-and-a-half hike from their bikes. They look down at the water
pooling at their feet where there had previously been dry ground. It is as
cloudy as a cup of milky coffee. They can’t see the forward passage at all,
but they know it’s there.
Coach Ek wonders how bad the flooding is. If the flooded section isn’t
too long, maybe they could manage to swim out. He will give it a try first.
Coach Ek unspools the coil of rope he brought with them. He ties one
end around his waist and hands the other end to Thi, Night, and Adul.
As he wades into the water, he gives them instructions. “Once I swim
in, if I can’t find any way forward, I’ll tug the rope twice and you’ll pull
me back. But if I don’t tug on the rope at all, you’ll know we can make it
through, and you can swim in after me.”
The boys nod and grip tight to the rope. Their heartbeats race as they
watch their coach take a deep breath and plunge into the water.
The cold current swirls around Coach Ek. It’s strong, and it pushes
him back toward the boys waiting behind him. They shine their flash-
lights into the water to give him some light. But even with his eyes wide
open, he can’t see through the dirty swill. He swims forward for a few
strokes, stretching his feet down to check if he can reach the bottom. His
toes kick sand. He reaches overhead. The water goes all the way to the
rock above. There is no air space at all.
What if this flooded section is just a short duck under? Maybe the
surface is only a few feet away. Maybe he can reach it. But his air is run-
ning out. If he goes any farther, he might not have enough air in his lungs
to make it back. Even if he does make it to the other side, it’s doubtful
that the boys can get through. And what if he is unable to swim back to
help them?
Quickly, he yanks the rope twice. He feels the tug of the boys on the
other end. He kicks his legs as they reel him in.
Coach Ek gets out of the water, dripping and chilled. He knows
that if he uses the word “trapped,” the boys could panic. He stays calm
and explains that they won’t be able to get out this way with the water
so high. But if they wait, it will go down, and then they’ll be able to
swim out.
The boys look at one another. They don’t understand. They just came
this way. How could the water have risen so quickly?
28 ALL THIRTEEN
Karst formations in Halong Bay, Vietnam
from Southeast Asia to the United States. Wherever you find karst, you
almost always find caves.
When rain falls on the Nang Non mountains, it doesn’t just run over
the surface. Much of that rain sinks straight down into the mountain’s
millions of holes, soaking into the ground like a sponge. When the Wild
Boars walked into Tham Luang, it was dry. But what the boys didn’t
realize was that the heavy rains that hit the area a few days before had
completely saturated the ground beneath their feet. The boys didn’t know
that the dry ground they walked on masked a mountain already filled to
the brim with water.
Any extra water — like the rain that started to fall after the boys went
inside — has nowhere else to go, so it flows through the cave itself. And
it flows fast. Karst caves are known to flash flood in an instant. The net-
work of tunnels in a karst mountain is like an underground river system.
Tiny passages near the surface carry rainwater deeper into the mountain,
where the passages widen and join bigger streams, which connect to
even bigger streams. In some cave systems, entire raging rivers of water
gush through the rock, putting white-water rapids to shame.
TRAPPED 29
A KARST CAVE SYSTEM
Cracks form
Aven stream in limest
limestone.
Cave
khole
Limestone
At 5:00 p.m. on Saturday, the boys are more afraid of their parents than
of the cave. None of the boys told their families where they were going.
Mark realizes how late it will be by the time he gets home and worries
about the scolding he’ll get once he does show up. Thi knows his mom is
going to be furious. Some of the boys start thinking about all the home-
work they have to do for school.
Coach Ek wonders if they can dig a canal for the water to flow into.
Maybe if they dig it deep enough, that will allow the water to subside and
make enough space for them to swim through. The boys grab rocks and
start digging in the gravelly dirt. They dig and dig, but it quickly becomes
clear that they’re not making any change in the water levels.
Suddenly everyone is exhausted. It isn’t late, but the rush of adrena-
line from realizing they are trapped has now worn off, and fatigue hits
them like a truck.
Thi checks his watch again. It’s 6:00 p.m. now. “Coach, do you think
we should find someplace to sleep?”
The boys all agree that they should rest and wait for the water to go
down. Coach Ek leads the way deeper into the cave to a section where
the ground is sandy and water drips from the rocks along the cave walls.
Night thinks about his party and all the friends and family invited.
He thinks about the food he knows his mother has been cooking all after-
noon, and the cake.
His teammates are thinking of food, too. It’s useless, though, unless
they want to eat flashlights for dinner. They have no food with them. The
only snacks they had were eaten before they entered the cave. Luckily,
they do have the most important thing their bodies need — water.
Coach tells them that drinking the murky water from the pools on the
32 ALL THIRTEEN
cave floor isn’t safe. It could have run straight over the ground and into
the cave, carrying all sorts of harmful bacteria. But the water dripping
from the walls has probably filtered down more slowly through the rocks
overhead, cleaning it somewhat.
The boys drink the water as best they can, cupping their hands to
catch the drops as they fall. It tastes good and clean, like spring water.
They find the driest spots they can and lie down together. Coach
knows that he needs to keep calm and positive so that no one gets upset.
Luckily everyone seems all right. Other than worrying about being in
trouble with their parents, none of the boys are panicking. Before they
go to sleep, he tells them all to pray together, just as they would before
going to bed at home.
When the prayers are finished, Coach Ek tells them not to worry; the
water will go down, and the parks department staff will be looking for
them. One by one, the boys drift off to sleep, thinking about tomorrow,
when they’ll be able to get out.
TRAPPED 33
Caver Vern Unsworth maneuvers through a squeeze in Tham Luang.