Stabilized oil-soluble

vitamin C derivative

VC-IP
Anti- Age Spots
Pigmentation

Anti- DNA
oxidation Protection

Oil-Soluble High Safety

Colorless
High Skin Penetration Heat-Stable Odorless
MULTI-FUNCTIONAL VITAMIN C DERIVATIVE

2014-02
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

1 About VC-IP

2 Efficacy
z Anti-pigmentation (UV-induced)
z Anti-pigmentation (Age spots)
z Skin Penetration
z Anti-Acne
z Anti-aging
z DNA protection

3 Safety tests

4 Stability

5 Formulation guidelines

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RO
OR

1 About VC-IP
CH CH O R
2

O O
Multi-functional Vitamin C Derivative H
OR

INCI Name : Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Vitamin C has many functions as a cosmetic ingredient, including skin lightening,

promoting collagen synthesis and inhibiting lipid peroxidation. VC-IP (ascorbyl
tetraisopalmitate) is stable at high temperatures and has good solubility in oils. VC-IP
exhibits excellent percutaneous absorption and effectively converts into free vitamin C
in the skin to perform various physiological functions. VC-IP is approved as a quasi-drug
active in Japan (at 3%). It is also registered in Korea as a functional ingredient for skin
lightening at 2% concentration.

Effect Characteristics

・Superior percutaneous absorption

・Inhibits activity of intracellular tyrosinase and melanogenesis (whitening)
Oil
・Reduces UV-induced cell / DNA damage (UV protection / anti-stress) soluble
・Prevents lipid peroxidation and skin aging (anti-oxidant)
・Good solubility in common cosmetic oils Stability
・SOD-like activity (anti-oxidant)
・Collagen synthesis and collagen protection (anti-age)
Colorless
・Heat- and oxidation-stable

Odorless

Vitamin C Anti- Collagen Anti-oxidant DNA UV Stable

pigmentation Synthesis Protection Protection

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Depigmentation Action of VC-IP

Pigment cell
active factor

Rective Inhibition
oxygen Inhibition

1
Inhibition
Peroxidation Tyrosinase activity
Dendricity
2 Suppression
DNA lesion

Melanocyte Epidermal cell

1. Classic Anti-pigmentation Process

The production of melanin is dependent on the amount of the
enzyme tyrosinase, which triggers melanogenesis. VC-IP (once
converted into pure Vitamin C within the cells) regulates the
activity of tyrosinase and subsequently the downstream process
of melanin production.

2. New Anti-pigmentation Process

In response to “stress” such as UVB radiation, matured
melanocytes have the ability to develop dendrite projections
which form highways transporting melanin to epidermal cells
(keratinocytes) and into the upper layers of the skin. VC-IP
effectively suppresses this dendritic formations thereby limiting
the opportunities of pigment transfer.

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2 Efficacy
Anti-Pigmentation ( Tyrosinase Inhibition )

Inhibition of Intracellular Tyrosinase Activity

VC-IP was added into mouse melanoma cells (B16-4A5) at various concentrations.
After a 72-hour cultivation, the cells were dissolved and extracted. L-Dopa was then
added to the extract. After 60 minutes at 37 degrees Celsius, the amount of
dopachrome formed by the activity of tyrosinase was evaluated by measuring its
absorbance at 540 nm. Figure below shows that at a concentration of 0.02% and
above VC-IP inhibited the activity of intracellular tyrosinase.

100
Tyrosinase Activity (%)

90

80

70

60

50
0 0.02 0.05 0.1
VC-IP (%)

Inhibitory Effect of VC-IP on Intracellular Tyrosinase Activity

Melanogenesis Inhibition of VC-IP (in Human Cells)

Various concentrations of VC-IP were added to cultured human melanoma cells

(HM-3-KO). After 4 days of cultivation, the amount of melanin produced was
measured by observation of the color tone of each cell pellet. As shown below,
VC-IP effectively inhibited melanogenesis in human melanoma cells. Results were
dose-dependent.
Melanin Amount (%)

100
80
60
40
20
0
0 0.005 0.01 0.1 0.2
VC-IP (%) VC-IP(％)

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2 Efficacy
Anti-Pigmentation ( Dendricity Suppression )

Effect of UVB on Melanocyte Dendricity

Oxidative stress such as UV rays

promote dendricity activity of
melanocytes VC-IP has a suppressing
effect of this melanocyte activity.

Melanocyte Dendricity Suppression

The 3D skin model containing melanocytes (MEL) was cultured EPI-100LLMM.

Test samples were applied from top of the skin model and melanocyte morphology was
evaluated after 1 week. Melanocytes were stained with 0.1 % L-3,4-Dihydrophenylalanin
(L-DOPA) and their shape was observed via microscope.
Shape of melanocyte in 3D skin model

Placebo:
Ethylhexyl
Palmitate
(100%).
Control (0% VCIP)
Test
samples:
VC-IP 2%
In Ethylhexyl
Palmitate.
2 % VC-IP

Cell Survival Rate

Cell survival was evaluated in the skin model after the test. The models treated with
VC-IP showed slight increase in cell survival against control due to cell activation
effect of VC-IP.
Index (%) 1)
(%) Mean S.D. p 2)
Control (Ethylhexyl Palmitate)
100.0 ± 9.4 1.000
100%
VC-IP 1% 100.1 ± 6.0 0.992
VC-IP 2% 101.3 ± 1.1 0.830
VC-IP 3% 111.9 ± 7.4 0.160
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Anti-Pigmentation ( UV-induced )
Clinical In-Vivo Study on VC-IP: Reduction of
UV-induced pigmentation (3%)

Number of volunteers: 30
Testing site: Inner side of volunteer’s upper arm
Testing period: 3 weeks
Procedure: For the first step of the test, minimal erythema dose (MED) of each volunteer is
measured using solar simulator. Briefly, 6 dosed of UV ray are irradiated to the inner side of
right upper arm. After 24 hours from irradiation, MED is judged. For the second step, 1.5 MED
of UV ray is irradiated on the inner side of left upper arm of each volunteer in order to make
pigmentation. Sample application is started just after irradiation. Sample is applied twice a
day during test period. Sample application sites are randomly changed in every volunteer in
order to do justice.

Results Test period= 21 days

Placebo 3% VC-IP

Clinical In-Vivo Study on VC-IP: Reduction of UV-induced pigmentation (2%)

Test period: 56 days.

Concentration: 2%.
12
Before

12

After 56 days

Control VC-IP (2%)

18
Before

18
After 56 days

Control VC-IP (2%)

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Age spot reduction

Test results on VC-IP 10%
Clinical study
Aqueous gel which with 10% VC-IP was Was their improvement of spots, acne and skin
redness? (evaluated by a dermatologist)
applied to 10 patients with age spots and
acne (16-45 years old) for 2-10 months.
Efficacy was evaluated according to the No
following scale : Change
Excellent
> 75 % improvement : Excellent
> 50 % improvement : Good
< 50 % improvement : No change Good

Visual improvement of age spot (evaluated by a dermatologist)

Before After 16 weeks

Age Spot Reduction on Hands

1.5% of VC-IP Lotion, After 1 month

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2 Efficacy
Superior Skin Penetration

NIKKOL VC-IP is converted into Vitamin C (VC) in the 3D skin model

The upper part (Stratum Corneum) of the 3D skin model was treated with a formulation
containing 10% VC-IP for a 48 hour period, and HPLC analysis was performed.
It was confirmed that as an active pro-vitamin and ester of vitamin C, NIKKOL VC-IP
permeates the skin and is converted in the skin into vitamin C by esterase and other enzymes.

Efficient Absorption into Human Keratinocytes and Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Cells were treated with the medium containing various concentrations of VC-IP or
ascorbic acid (AsA). After 2 h incubation, cells were homogenated and the content of
free ascorbic acid were determined using HPLC.

VCIP showed higher uptake in human cell culture compared to pure ascorbic acid
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Superior Skin Penetration

Evaluation of human skin penetration of VC-IP and Ascorbyl Glucoside

Subjects: 8.
Test site: forearm.

Cream with 10% VC-IP Tape stripping area

Cream with 10% Ascorbyl Glucoside (3.8cm2 )
Test sample
application
area

Application time: 1 hour 3cm

3cm
6cm

Tape stripping from test sites is performed 20 times

Amount of VC-IP and Ascorbyl Glucoside collected by tape stripping is evaluated by HPLC

450 700

400 Ascorbyl Glucoside **

650
350
VC-IP
Collected amount

300 600
Collected amount

250
(mg)

550
(mg)

200 ** **

150 500

100
450
50

0 400
2-5 6-10 11-15 16-20 Total score

Number of tape strippings

** : p < 0.05

VC-IP showed higher skin penetration than Ascorbyl Glucoside.

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2 Efficacy
Anti-aging Properties

Pigment cell
active factor

Rective Inhibition
oxygen Inhibition

Inhibition
Tyrosinase activity
Peroxidation

DNA
Damage
Pigment cell Epidermal cell

Cell Revitalizing Activity / Cell Proliferation

VC-IP was added at various concentrations to human fibroblasts (NB1RGB). After 3 days
of cultivation, the cell growth rate was measured by MTT reduction assay. As shown below,
VC-IP proliferated human fibroblasts. And the result was dose-dependent.
Cell Proliferation Rate (%)

160
140
120
100
80
60
40
20
0
0 0.00625 0.025 0.1
VC-IP (%)

Cell Revitalizing Activity of VC-IP

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Anti-aging Properties
Promotion of Collagen Synthesis

Proline involved in collagen synthesis was labeled by 3H and added to human dermal
fibroblasts (NHDF) with various concentrations of VC-IP/L-ascorbic acid and cultivated for 24
hours. Then collagen fractions were obtained. The amount of 3H taken into the collagen
fraction was measured by using a liquid scintillation counter and slot blotter. As shown
below, VC-IP significantly promoted collagen synthesis.

4
L-ascorbic acid
Amount of collagen

3 VC-IP
Control
2

0
0 10 20 50
Concentration (μ mol/L)

Promotion of Collagen Synthesis

Inhibition of Activity of Collagen Degrading Enzyme

VC-IP was added at concentrations of 10-50μmol/L to human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF).

After a 48-hour cultivation, secreted material was obtained. The activity of two types of
collagen degrading enzymes, MMP-2 (72kDa) and MMP-9 (92kDa), in the secreted material
were evaluated by gelatin zymography. VC-IP drastically inhibited the activity of both MMP-2
and MMP-9. The inhibitory effect was considerably higher than that of L-ascorbic acid.

100

80 MMP-2
MMP-9
60
Activity of Enzyme (%)

40

20

0 10 20 50 20 50 (μmol/L)

VC-IP L-ascorbic acid

Inhibition of Collagen Degrading Enzyme Activity

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Anti-acne
Clinical In-Vivo Study on VC-IP: Reduction of Acne (10%)

Before After 16 weeks

Before After 12weeks

Before After 9weeks

Inhibition of Sebum Oxidation

VC-IP (10% in mineral oil) was applied to the inner forearms of 6 volunteers. UVB (2.05
J/cm2) was used to irradiate the test site 4 hours after application. Then the
production rate of squalene peroxide was measured as an indicator of sebum
oxidation. As shown below, VC-IP inhibited the production of squalene peroxide at
the same level as the control without UVB irradiation.
7
Squalene Peroxide

6
Production (%)

5
4
3
2
1
0
No UVB UVB Irradiation UVB Irradiation +
VC-IP
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DNA protection
(VC-IP protects skin from UVB)

Protection of DNA from UVB irradiation 100

p53 Expression (%)

80
When cells are exposed to UVB rays, a
cancer suppressor, p53 protein, is 60
activated in response to DNA damage. 40
The amount of expressed p53 was 20
measured as an indicator of the amount
of damage to DNA. Human fibroblasts 0
(NB1RGB); UVB (0.1J/cm2). 0 0.005 0.01
VC-IP significantly inhibited the expression
VC-IP (%)
of p53.

p53 Expression (Western Blot)

VC-IP (%)

Reduction of cell damage caused by

100
Cell Survival Rate (%)

UV Irradiation
80
VC-IP and L-ascorbic acid were added
60
at the concentration of 10μmol/L to
epidermal cells. The cells were then 40
irradiated with UVB. After a 24-hour 20
cultivation, cell survival rate was
measured by WST-1 assay. Protective 0
effect of VC-IP was higher than that of No UVB 20 40
L-ascorbic acid due to the fact that the UVB (mJ/cm2)
conversion rate of VC-IP into the cells is L-ascorbic acid VC-IP
higher than that of pure ascorbic acid.

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VC-IP protects skin from UVB

Comet Assay Test

The comet assay, also called the 'Single Cell Gel Assay', is the technique to detect DNA
damage and repair at the level of single cells. The comet assay or single cell gel
electrophoresis assay is based on the alkaline lysis of labile DNA at sites of damage.
'Comet Assay' is one of the most popular tests of DNA damage detection (e.g., single-
and double-strand breaks, oxidative-induced base damage, and DNA-DNA/DNA-protein
cross linking ) by electrophoresis, developed in recent years.
Comet Assay has very high sensitivity to detect DNA damage.

Idea

A A C A T C T 2-chain DNA damaged

by UV irradiation
T T G T A G A

Strong alkali

T C

A T
A C A
DNA loses one chain and
T T G T A G A disintegrates

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VC-IP protects skin from UVB

Suppression of DNA damage induced by UVB (Comet Assay test)

100
*
*
DNA migration (μm)

80
*
*
*

60

40
No UVB Control VC-IP Vitamin C VC-PMG Ascorbyl
Glucoside

UVB10mJ/cm2

DNA damage was evaluated by the comet assay. HaCaT keratinocytes which were
treated with VC derivatives for 24 h, were exposed to UVB at 100 mJ/cm2.

DNA damage was evaluated

by the comet assay. HaCaT
keratinocytes which were
Control (No UVB) treated with VC-IP for 24 h,
were exposed to UVB at 10
mJ/cm2. Cells are stained with
etidium bromide.

UVB 10mJ/cm2

UVB 10mJ/cm2 +
VC-IP (100 mM)

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VC-IP protects skin from UVA

Inhibition of keratinocytes’ DNA

damage induced by UVA

The light parts on the pictures (taken 1

hour after of UVA irradiation) indicate 8-
hydroxyguanosine, an index of DNA
damage. The application of VC-IP
inhibits the release of 8-
hydroxyguanosine, thereby protecting No treatment VC-IP (80 μM)
the cell against UVA damage.

Protection of cell damage induced by UVA

Microscopic pictures of keratinocytes 24

hours after irradiation.
VC-IP treatment reduces cell death by
31.5%.

No UVA UVA UVA + VC-IP

Inhibition of DNA Fragmentation induced by UVA

Control Treated with VC-IP

0 hr 2 hr 0 hr 2 hr

0.5 hr 4 hr 0.5 hr 4 hr

1 hr 8 hr 1 hr 8 hr

HaCaT cells were treated with 80 μM VC-IP. After UVA irradiation, DNA fragmentation was
detected by nick end labeling method (TUNEL). VC-IP significantly suppressed DNA
fragmentation (shown with fluorescent staining).
*UVA dosage of the test on this page is 100 mJ/cm2.
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Solubility of VC-IP
The solubility of VC-IP in various cosmetic raw materials was measured at 25, 50 and 75
Celsius. VC-IP is soluble in most oils, whether polar oil or non-polar, except polyhydric
alcohols. (S: Soluble; I: Insoluble).

Concentration of VC-IP (wt%) 5 10 50

Temperature (Celsius) 25 50 70 25 50 70 25 50 70
Glycerin Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ
Propylene Glycol Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ
1,3-Butylene Glycol Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ Ｉ
Ethanol Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｉ Ｓ Ｓ
Propyleneglycol Monocaprylate Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ
Castor Oil Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ
Triethylhexanoin Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ
Olive Oil Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ
Cetyl Ethylhexanoin Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ
Mineral Oil Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ Ｓ

Guidelines for a Highly-stable Formulation Ｓ: Soluble Ｉ: Insoluble

VC-IP has superior stability compared with other vitamin C derivatives. However, it may
discolor under some specific conditions. Design preparations in the pH range not higher
than 6.0.
The use of chelating agents and anti-oxidants (tocopherol) in the formulation is
recommended because they are effective to prevent discoloration.
Since contact with water may induce oxidation of VC-IP, add surfactants with long
chain polyoxyethylenes to stabilize the system, strengthening the interfacial membrane.
Avoid heating for long periods of time and keep VCIP away from materials that have
catalytic activity (metal ions from inorganic sunscreens or organic clay materials). UV
absorbers can be used safely with VCIP.

Stability of VC-IP in QD cream* 100.0

90.0
80.0
Assay of VC-IP (%)

Stability of VC-IP assay and pH 70.0

of cream (10% aq. solution) at 60.0
45 degrees Celsius x 3 months. 50.0
40.0
Emulsifier: glyceryl stearate. 30.0
VC-IP: 3.3%. Oil phase: 10%. 20.0
PH adjustment: citric acid / 10.0
sodium citrate. 0.0
4.21 4.28 4.57 4.86 4.97 5.53 5.72
pH
*Formulations are shown in the last
part of this booklet.
2014-02
 QD Emollient Cream (VC-IP 3%)
This emollient cream formulation was similar to the formula used
to evaluate anti-pigmentation efficacy at 3% concentration.
Skin brightening effect was determined after 21 days

Trade Name (INCI Name) wt.%

A NIKKOL BC‐20TX (Ceteth‐20) 1.0
NIKKOL GO‐440 (PEG‐40 Sorbitan Tetraoleate) 0.5
NIKKOL MGS‐BV (Glyceryl Stearate) 1.0
NIKKOL VC‐IP (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) 3.0
Cetanol 5.0
Nikkol Sugar Squalane 10.0
NIKKOL ICM‐R (Isocetyl Myristate) 6.0
NIKKOL Trifat S‐308 (Triethylhexanoin) 3.0
NIKKOL Jojoba Oil 1.0
Methylpolysiloxane (350 mm2 / s) 0.2
Vitamin E 0.1
Propyl Paraben q.s.
B Methyl Paraben q.s.
1,3‐Butylene Glycol 5.0
Xanthan Gum 0.1
Citric Acid 0.1
Sodium Citrate 0.4
Distilled Water to make 100

Procedure
1. Heat and dissolve A and B respectively.
2. While keeping 80oC, add B to A little by little with stirring and emulsify.
3. Cool with stirring and add C at 50oC. Cool to 35oC.

2014-02
 Elegant “Wavy” Whitening Cream
Lot 08-WC-SBP-09
This cream was designed for high moisture and high aesthetics- it
creates a wavy swirl & high gloss that is beautiful when you open a jar.
A “Kansei” whitening formulation!

Trade Name (INCI Name) wt.%

NIKKOL Sugar Squalane 7.00
Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride 2.60
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate 0.10
Nikkol VC‐IP (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) 3.00
Tocopheryl Acetate 0.20
Nikkol Batyl Alcohol EX (Batyl Alcohol) 0.20
Petrolatum 2.10
A
Cetyl Palmitate 2.00
Stearyl Alcohol 2.40
Nikkol MGS‐BV2 (Glyceryl Stearate) 0.60
Nikkol MGS‐150V (Glyceryl Stearate, PEG‐60 Glyceryl Stearate) 1.60
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 0.20
KF‐96A‐ 350CS (Dimethicone) 0.50
Tocopherol 0.10
B Hydroxyethylcellulose, Water 10.00
Preservative q.s.
Butylene Glycol 5.0
Glycerin 10.0
Phenoxyethanol 0.40
Water 40.47
C Citric Acid 0.045
Sodium Citrate 0.005
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.050
Potassium Hydroxide 0.03
Benzophone‐4 0.10
Sodium Hyaluronate (1% a.q.) 1.0
Water 10.0
Total 100.00

1. Heat A, B to 80 degrees and dissolve till uniform

2. While stirring, add B into A until uniform.
3. Add C at 40 degrees
4. Mix until cooled down at 30 degrees.
2014-02
 30% VC-IP Gel Cream
Lot 21 DVC-75

This gel-cream was inspired by a popular doctor’s brand sold

in Japan. This fresh non-sticky gel formulation contains 30%
VC-IP for proven age-spot diminishing effect. Also contains
Thiotaine (Ergothioneine) which allows the “recycling” of
Vitamin C prolonging its bio-availability.

Ingredient wt.%
A BUTYLENE GLYCOL 6.00
GLYCERIN 4.00
PHENOXYETHANOL 0.40
XANTHAN GUM 0.08
CARBOMER 0.66
ACRYLATES/C10‐30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.24
THIOTAINE (ERGOTHIONEINE) 0.15
PENTASODIUM PENTETATE 0.20
SODIUM HYALURONATE (and) PHENOXYETHANOL (and)
2.00
WATER
WATER 49.27
B ARGININE 0.10
WATER 0.90
C TOCOPHEROL 0.10
NIKKOL VC‐IP (ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE) 30.00
CYCLOPENTASILOXANE 5.00
NIKKOGUARD 88 (ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN (and)
0.40
GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE)
Hexaglyn PR‐15 (POLYGLYCERYL‐6 POLYRICINOLEATE) 0.50
Total 100.00
Procedure
1 Mix A until uniform at room temperature.
2 Add B into A and mix until uniform.
3 While stirring with paddle mixer at 200 rpm, add C into A+B
gradually then emulsify for 10min. (200 g scale)
2014-02
 Brightening Sleep Mask (2% VC-IP)
This soft cream can be layered on to your skin as your last step.
This formula seals in moisture and corrects uneven skin tone while
you sleep. Nikkol SMT is added to make the formula rinsable the
next day.
Ingredient wt.%
A Mineral Oil 10.00
NIKKOL Triester F‐810 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 5.00
NIKKOL VC‐IP (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) 2.00
Vaseline 3.00
Stearyl Alcohol 3.00
NIKKOL MGS‐BV2 (Glyceryl Stearate) 2.20
NIKKOL MYS‐55V (PEG‐55 Stearate) 0.80
Dimethicone 0.50
NIKKOL N‐SPV (Cetyl Palmitate) 2.00
Tocopherol 0.10
Propylparaben 0.10
B Hydroxyethylcellulose, water 10.00
Methylparaben 0.20
Butylene glycol 5.00
Glycerin 7.00
Phenoxyethanol 0.30
Water to 100.00
C Titanium Dioxide 2.00
NIKKOL SMT (Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate) 0.05
Citric Acid, Water 1.00
EDTA‐2Na 0.05
Water 10.00
Total 100.00
Procedure (for 300 g scale)
1 Heat A and B to 80 degrees Celsius and mix well. Stir C at room
temperature with dispersing mixer for 3 minutes and 2500 rp
2 Keeping 80 degrees Celsius, while stirring slowly, add B into A very slowly
with small portions. Then stir with homogenizer at 5000 rpm for 7 minutes.
3 Add C and homogenize for 2 minutes at 5000 rpm.
4 After cooling to 30 degrees Celsius, adjust water content and finish the
procedure.
2014-02
 VC-IP 20% Boosting Essence
Lot. 8-AML- 08

This simple-looking watery essence stabilizes 20% VC-IP with

minimal use of surfactant. Blend a drop or two into your
favorite cream or serum to boost the brightening/ anti-
oxidant protection effect.

Ingredient wt.%
A NIKKOL VC‐IP (ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE) 20.000
TOCOPHEROL 0.100
(PRESERVATIVE) q.s.
B NIKKOL TGI‐20 (PEG‐20 GLYCERYL TRIISOSTEARATE) 0.100
ACRYLATES/C10‐30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.200
SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.015
WATER to 100.000
C WATER 15.000
DISODIUM EDTA 0.050
BUTYLENE GLYCOL 2.000
(PRESERVATIVE) q.s.
Total 100.000

Procedure
1 Heat A and B to dissolve.
2 Add A to B while homogenizing B (4,000rpm).
3 Emulsify (5,000rpm, 3min./200g).
4 Cool down to room temperature, then add C to B.
5 Remove air by defoaming machine.

2014-02
 Brightening Toner (1% VC-IP)
Lot. 10-SEK-05
Watery translucent toners can be made with Soluble VCIP.
Brightening effect is enhanced with 1% Botanical Extract Complex,
a blend of botanicals with 5 different anti-pigmentation actions.

Ingredient wt.%
A WATER to 100.000
GLYCERIN 1.000
BUTYLENE GLYCOL 2.000
PEG‐6,PEG‐32 0.500
DISODIUM EDTA 0.020
BETAINE 0.500
CITRIC ACID 0.003
(PRESERVATIVE) q.s.
B NIKKOL Soluble VCIP (ASCORBYL
TETRAISOPALMITATE,PPG‐8‐ CETETH‐20,BUTYLENE 5.000
GLYCOL, PPG‐4‐CETETH‐20,GLYCERIN, WATER)
SODIUM HYALURONATE,WATER (1% a.q.) 0.500
BOTANICAL EXTRACT COMPLEX(B)‐BG (GLYCYRRHIZA
GLABRA (LICORICE) ROOT EXTRACT,ARTEMISIA
CAPILLARIS FLOWER EXTRACT,MORUS ALBA ROOT 1.000
EXTRACT,ZIZYPHUS JUJUBA FRUIT EXTRACT,SCUTELLARIA
BAICALENSIS ROOT EXTRACT,BUTYLENE GLYCOL, WATER)
WATER 5.000
C DIPOTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZATE 0.200
WATER 2.000
D ALCOHOL 5.000
NIKKOL TL‐10 (PEG‐20 SORBITAN COCOATE) 0.500
FRAGRANCE 0.030
Total 100.000

Procedure
1 Dissolve A, B, C and D separately.
2 Add B, C to A while mixing A with paddle mixer, and dissolve completely.
3 Add D to A gradually and mix well to dissolve.
2014-02
 Lip Brightening Stick (VC-IP 3%)
Estimated SPF 10-15/ Lot 21 DCL-10

This lip primer is enriched with plant-derived oils such as quick-

absorbing Sugar Squalane. 3% VCIP provides superior anti-
oxidation & collagen protection properties. Shiso Extract NA
improves microcirculation for healthier-looking lips.
Free of Synthetic Waxes & Parabens.

Trade Name (INCI Name) wt.%

A NIKKOL DGMIS (POLYGLYCERYL‐2 ISOSTEARATE) 1.00
Shiso Extract NA (WATER,ALCOHOL,PERILLA OCYMOIDES LEAF
0.50
EXTRACT)
B NIKKOL Triester F‐810 (CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE) 10.00
C NIKKOL Sugar Squalane (SQUALANE) 10.00
NIKKOL Triester F‐810 (CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE) 45.00
COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX 2.25
EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX 10.50
ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX 2.25
D TITANIUM DIOXIDE,POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID,ISOSTEARIC
15.00
ACID,ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE
E NIKKOL VC‐IP (ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE) 3.00
F CITRUS JUNOS PEEL OIL 0.50
Total 100.00

Procedure
1 Mix A at room temperature.
2 While stirring, add B into A until uniform.
3 Heat C to 85‐90oC to dissolve.
4 Heat A+B, D and E to 80oC, then add each of them into C, then finally
add F.
5 Pour into a mold then cool down in refrigerator.
 Spot Correcting Stick (50% VC-IP)
This stick formulation highlights the oil-soluble property of VC-IP:
how easy it can be incorporated in waxy formulations without any
discoloration from high temperature heating.

Ingredients Melting Point wt%

VC‐IP (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) 50.00
Triester F‐810 (Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride) 24.00
A
Petroleum Wax (Ceresin 710) 10.00
Candelilla Wax 68 ‐ 72 10.00

Plastic Powder D‐400 6.00

Total 100.00

Procedure
1 Heat A and mix till uniform. Then pour in mold and leave for 5 min at RT.
2 Remove excess from top of the mold and refrigirate for 10 min.
3 Remove the product from mold.

Brightening Beauty Oil (20% VC-IP)

The core of this dry feel, quick absorbing beauty oil is
20% VC-IP to provide multiple beauty effects on skin.
Syncelane 4SP adds slip and light feel to the formulation.

Ingredients wt%
VC‐IP (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) 20.00
Macadamia Nuts Oil 0.50
Syncelane 4SP (Hydrogenated Poly‐C6‐12 Olefin) 8.80
A
Nikkol Trifat S308 (Triethylhexanoin) 35.00

Nikkol IOP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) 35.00

Tocopherol 0.50

Total 100.00

Procedure
1 Mix all ingredients with a paddle.

2014-02
 Smoothening Correcting Line Filler (1% VC-IP)
02-VCIP-WC-0702

This silky-feel matte silicone gel-emulsion fills and smoothen lines &
blurs out uneven spots. VCIP adds a treatment function to the
formula.

Ingredient wt.%

A NIKKOL CIO (Cetyl Ethylhexanoate) 1.00

Butyl Paraben 0.05
Methyl Paraben 0.05
KSG‐16 (Dimethicone Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer,
45.00
B Dimethicone)
Cyclopentasiloxane 14.90
KSG‐15 (Dimethicone Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer,
13.00
Cyclopentasiloxane)
C NIKKOL VC‐IP (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) 1.00
Plastic Powder D‐400 (HDI/ Trimethylol Hexylactone
15.00
Crosspolymer, Silica)
D Silica 5.00
Tospearl 145A (Polymethylsesquioxane) 3.00
KSP‐102 (Vinyl Dimethicone/ Methicone Silsesquioxane
2.00
Crosspolymer)
TOTAL 100.00

<Procedure>
1. Heat A to dissolve.
2. Stir well B at RT until even.
3. Add A into B and mix until even using a paddle mixer.
4. Add C and mix till a homogenous silicone gel is made.
5. Add D until an even paste is made.

2014-02
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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD.

1‐4‐8 NIHONBASHI‐BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103‐0002, JAPAN
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