Unit 3: Elements of Fashion

 Fashion:
o Fashion is an ever changing, vital and influential force that impacts our everyday lives.
o Our lifestyle i.e. - the way we live, what we eat, what we wear, and the activities we
indulge in and how we spend our leisure time are all manifestations of this dynamic force.
o Fashion hence reflects a society's prevailing customs; it's political, economic and cultural
state at any given point of time.
 Webster definition of Fashion:
o Webster defines fashion as 'prevailing custom, usage or style'.
 Fashion is much more than just the clothes and accessories:
o Fashion is also the spirit which goes into their creation
o The money that is involved in promoting them
o The people who wear the clothes.
 Why is Paris called the fashion capital of the world?
o It is the aura and allure of Paris that continues to draw international designers to the French
capital to show their collection and to make a name.
 What is a Fashion Capital?
o Fashion capital is a city which has the potential to be a major centre for fashion industry in
which activities of production, retailing of fashion goods, hosting of fashion events and
fashion related trade fairs generating significant economic output, can be held.
o A fashion capital in all its feasibility will have a strong subculture, capable of inspiring not
only fashion professionals but also the citizens of the city.
 List the “big four” fashion capitals of the world.
o London
o Milan
o New York
o Paris
 What has lead to the development of other fashion centers besides “big four”? Name any 3.
o Wider connectivity of the world at the click of a button and the easy sharing of information
has lead to emerging of other major fashion centres around the globe.
o Some of these centres are:
 Tokyo
 Shanghai
 Mumbai
 Toronto
 Dubai
 Düsseldorf
 Briefly explain the 3 basic categories of Fashion Producers.
o Haute Couture:
 The haute couture producers are the highly creative design houses that produce very
expensive garments made to order for individual customers.
o Ready to Wear:
 The ready-to-wear designer labels are known for products designed by their talented
designers. Their fine quality, innovative styling is made in standardized sizes and
usually manufactured in factories.
o Mass Produced:
 The mass-produced, ready-to-wear garments are manufactured off-shore, coming
out of low wage countries at much lower costs. The primary objective is per piece
production at a competitive price.
 What was the name & purpose of the French designer‟s trade association founded in 1868?
 o Fine dressmaking started with a small group of French fashion producers known as the
'haute couture'.
o Subsequently, when the numbers of haute couture designers grew, a trade association was
formed to determine the qualifications of a couture house and to deal with their common
interests.
o Consequently, La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne was found in 1868. The
Chambre also controls the schedules of fashion shows, issues of originality, shipping dates
and so on.
o Members show their exclusive collections twice a year:
 January for the Spring/Summer
 July for the Autumn/Winter
 Briefly reflect on the Italian fashion industry.
o The Italian couture was organized after World War II along the same lines as Paris but on a
much smaller scale.
o The Italian counterpart of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne is the Camera
Nazionale dell' Alta Moda Italiana.
o The Italian houses are not congregated in a single city but are located in three cities-Rome,
Florence and Milan.
 List the sources of substantial income for the couture house besides their haute couture range?
o Ready-to-wear sections
o Franchised boutiques
o The licensing fees from perfumes, accessories and other goods to which the designer name
adds prestige.
 Why are the daily use items more popular than the designer items?
o The designer items are special and very expensive. The daily-use items, on the other hand,
are:
 More accessible
 Brand products at an affordable price.
 List some of the most prominent haute couture designers.
o Donna Karan and Calvin Klein from the US
o Alexander McQueen and Vivien Westwood from the UK
o Giorgio Armani and Missoni from Italy
o Issey Miyake and Kenzo from Japan
 What do you understand by the term Ready to Wear?
o Ready to Wear is derived from French word 'Prêt a Porter', which means 'off-the-rack' or
'off-the- peg'.
 Reflect on the evolution of ready to wear industry.
o Stitched garments in varied sizes, ready to be purchased of the rack were originally a
minor sideline of a few couture houses.
o However, this side of the industry has steadily grown into a full- fledged industry, not only
in France but globally for all designers across the world.
o Contributing to its development were ready-to-wear producing companies and designers,
like Sonia Rykiel, who began to attract the attention of foreign buyers by developing styles
and a look of their own that was different and fashionable.
o The garments were substantially lower in price than the couture garments, hence serving a
broader clientele.
o Many other designers launched their ready-to-wear lines thus joining the band wagon.
o A few of these are:
 Gucci
 Calvin Klein
 Paul Smith
 Kenzo.
 What are “createurs”?
 o Many of the Ready-to-Wear designers have been designated as 'createurs' by the
Chambre Syndicale and have been admitted as members.
 What is a Fabricator?
o A Fabricator is a “freelance” small scale manufacturing unit that can take up “job works”
from any company or designer; and is not committed to any 1 organization.
 What are the 2 prime seasons of fashion trade shows & trade fairs?
o Promotional activities, such as trade shows and trade fairs, are organized twice a year for:
 Spring/Summer in August- September
 Autumn/Winter in February-March.
 Write a short note on London fashion.
o British fashion is famous for its:
 Eccentricity reputation
 Plethora of quirky ideas
 Creativity
 'street fashion'.
British fashion has also long been known for its traditional style, especially its tweeds and
men's custom tailoring.
 Name a few influencing fashion icons in Britain.
o 60's super model Twiggy
o Princess Diana
o Alexander Mc Queen
 What is Carna by Street?
o Carnaby Street is a pedestrianised shopping street in Soho in the City of Westminster,
Central London.
o Close to Oxford Street and Regent Street, it is home to fashion and lifestyle retailers,
including a large number of independent fashion boutiques.
 Reflect on the evolution of British fashion over 60‟s and 70‟s.
o The British ready-to-wear industry flourished during the 1960s.
o The avant garde, colourful and uninhibited clothes for young men and women of that
decade that continued into the 1970s became synonymous with Carna by Street.
o The trendy styles created by young fashion designers filled boutiques throughout London.
o And boutiques for young people, who for the first time had money to spend, literally
mushroomed in the British capital and other major cities of the UK.
o The fresh and free-spirited attitude of the time was reflected in the short mini-skirted
dresses, flower and paisley designs on cotton muslins, silk satins, chiffons, velvets and
wool fabrics.
o British fashion for the first time had the younger generation setting the trends instead of
following the fashion path of the older generation.
 What is the importance of Marry Quant in British fashion?
o Mary Quant, a young English designer, who particularly understood the wave that was
changing the perceptions and social attitudes in her country and beyond.
o She made a significant contribution to the new look of fashion by introducing miniskirts to
every fashion follower's wardrobe.
o It was from here onwards that, the English fashion industry succeeded in capturing the
imagination of the young, trendy customers as well as their fashion-conscious elders.
 What are the sources of Italy's strength and competitive advantages?
o Italy's strength and competitive advantages derive from its:
 Excellent standard of their design aesthetics
 High quality textiles & fabric
 Fine workmanship
 The innovative elegant styling of its knitwear, sportswear and accessories,
particularly leather shoes and bags.
 Write a note on American fashion.
 o American fashion is:
 Straightforward
 Sensible
 Businesslike
aimed at the average consumer.
o The American approach has always been to solve the problems of the customer, and in
doing so the U.S. has earned the reputation of being the first country to design active and
casual sportswear.
o Designers who contributed path-breaking concepts to the ready-to-wear fashion industry
are:
 Claire McCardell
 Donna Karan
 Anne Klein
o The American designers are not just fashion designers but also excellent marketers who
leave little to chance in following and trying to meet their customer's desires and lifestyle
choices.
 List a few apparel elements that were developed in America and are now synonymous with casual
wear world-wide.
o Jeans
o Swimsuits
o Wrap skirts
o Jogging pants
o Sweatshirts
o Body suits
o Track suits
 Reflect on the importance of New York as a fashion centre.
o New York City is the Wholesale Fashion Centre of the U.S.
o Almost all the world's leading fashion designers have their offices in New York.
o It is indeed the Business Capital of Fashion.
o Twice a year members of the international fashion world come together in midtown
Manhattan to conduct business worth billions of dollars.
o They shop around for new ideas, new designs and, above all, are alert to a unique
commodity-the reality factor.
 Give examples of a few innovative fibers and fabrics developed in America that have
revolutionized the fashion scene.
o Nylon
o Polyester
o Lycra
 Who was Rose Bertin?
o Rose Bertin was an 18th century couturier who was named the Minister for Fashion.
 Who is regarded as the Father of Modern Fashion & why?
o Charles Worth, an Englishman working in Paris is regarded as the father of modern fashion
design.
o He began to put his name on his clothing labels, thus, inventing the first design label.
o He went a step further, creating designs based on his own ideas and displaying them on live
models so that clients could approve or disapprove.
 Name a few most influential designers from Paris.
o Chanel
o Dior
o Yves Saint Laurent
 Reflect on the transformation of the Japanese fashion industry over the recent years.
 o Japan has made popular a unique style which has developed with the Japanese fashion
makers, blending the knowledge of world fashion with traditional Japanese aesthetics and
concepts of beauty.
o Today, the fashion industry in Japan is at the top of the list of growth industries, and it is
doing extremely well in the area of fashion.
o Japan lays equal emphasis on its textile and apparel industry.
o The Japanese designers participate in international trade shows and have offices in
European cities and in New York.
o Many designer names in Japan have become famous for their ingenious concepts.
 Name some of the most prominent Japanese fashion designers.
o Issey Miyake
o Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons
o Yoji Yamamoto
 What are the influencing factors in India‟s huge economic growth over the past decade? How has
this growth affected the consumers?
o Colossal IT industry
o Back office operations for international market
o Opening of economy
This growth has leaded to:
o increase in the annual income of the average house hold
o sudden explosion in the purchasing power of its population
 What are the demands of an Indian fashion consumer today?
o The Indian consumer today lives in a global village where she interacts on a daily basis
with a heterogeneous mix of cultures, with in which she needs to establish her own unique
identity.
o There has been a notable need for comfortable and fashionable office wear, casual wear,
club wear, and formal ethnic wear.
o Influenced by globalization and immediate access to information there is a desire to create
an impression.
 List a few iconic Indian fashion designers with global presence.
o Ritu Kumar
o Manish Arora
o Sabyasachi Mukharjee
o Raghvendra Rathore
 What are the 2 prime fashion & design events in India?
o Wills Lifestyle fashion week
o Lakme India fashion week
 What are the prime reasons for outsourcing mass manufactured garments?
o Labour and infrastructure is very expensive in Europe, Japan and the US.
o Hence these apparel industries out-source its manufacturing from countries where wages
are low yet the labour force is highly skilled.
 List the centers of manufacturing in Asia and Europe.
o Asia:
 China
 India
 Sri Lanka
 Pakistan
 Bangladesh
 Thailand
 Mauritius
 Malaysia
o Europe:
 Poland
  Portugal
 Turkey
 Name the leading centre of manufacturing in South America.
o Mexico
 List some of the features of mass produced garments.
o The mass-manufactured garments are usually simplified knock offs of the up-market labels
and brands.
o Every effort is made by the producers to cut down on the cost of manufacture.
o Large quantities are produced in order to bring down the per-unit-cost, making the apparel
affordable for the masses.

Menswear:
 What was an average man's wardrobe consisted of until the mid - twentieth century?
o One or more of dark suits
o Matching vests
o white shirts
o Selection of dull coloured ties
 What factors lead to the evolution of men‟s wear from 1950‟s onwards?
o From 1950s onwards, the younger generation of men wanted to indulge themselves and
live life to its fullest, preferring less working hours and more family-oriented leisure
activities.
o This inevitably, led to the need for sport's and leisure wear.
o By 1960s, the popularity of music groups such as the Beatles and their influence on the
young generation sparked the demand for greater variety, faster change and new
opportunities for the expression of individuality.
o Menswear continued to experience dramatic changes throughout the 1970s and the 80s.S
 List a few professions “perceived‟ as less creative than advertising, theatre, architecture and
fashion; but highly placed and valued in society.
o Banking
o Law
o Medicine
o Corporate business.
 What makes up a “Corporate Look”?
o Wearing suits
o Shirts
o Trousers
o Accessorized with ties
 Who introduced the “Friday Dressing” and why?
o In the late 1980s, the concept of Friday dressing was introduced by the Corporate
Industry in the US.
o The dress code was relaxed on the last working day of the week (i.e. Friday) to bring in the
feeling of weekend just around the corner.
 What is the relevance of Denim Jeans in menswear fashion?
o Denim jeans (originally worn by the gold miners of California in 1850's, made from strong
and durable fabric) in the mainstream menswear apparel.
o The introduction of jeans in mainline clothing broke the social and economic barriers
prevalent at that time.
 List a few driving forces for Junior Men‟s Fashion.
o Sports
o Music channels
o Fashion icons
 List and briefly reflect on the 5 main categories of Men‟s Wear.
 o Casual Wear:
 Casual wear clothing can be worn during leisure activities or informal occasions.
Examples of such clothes are T- shirts, Jeans, Cargo pants, shorts etc.
o Sportswear:
 Sportswear clothing is worn either while playing a sport or are simply inspired from
any sports activity.
 These are informal interchangeable separates.
 These clothes may not necessarily be worn only while playing a sport but may be
flaunted even while watching it.
 Basketball T- shirts, tennis skirts, jogging pants etc are examples of sportswear
garments.
o Active Sportswear:
 Active sportswear clothing are meant to be worn while specifically participating in
a sports activity like swimming, scuba diving, hiking, skiing etc.
 The examples of such garments are swimming costumes, hiking pants, ski jackets
etc.
o Formal Wear:
 Formal wear clothing is worn during formal occasions related to office or for a
specific formal occasion. They can be divided into ethnic or western.
 Ethnic category may include sherwanis, churidars, kurtas, dhotis and pyjamas.
 Western category may include trousers, shirts, jackets and suits. However, with the
effect of globalization the distinction between ethnic and western is being burled by
creation of fusion garments like Jodhpuri pants and Nehru jackets.
o Outer Wear:
 Outer wear is clothing which is designed to be worn outside, over other garments.
Cloaks, jackets, overcoats, raincoats, robes etc. are some of the examples of
outerwear garments.
 Write a short note on colors in Men‟s wear.
o Colours used in menswear are more conservative, emphasizing masculinity and objectivity.
o The most common colours used in menswear are the cool range of blues, earthy browns,
smoky greys, shades of greens and neutrals.
 Floral prints are generally perceived as more feminine. What are its masculine counterparts?
o Stripes
o Checks
o Plaids.
 What type of fabrics would you choose for Men‟s wear?
o Fabrics for menswear are usually firm, masculine and formal
o The fabrics for Shirts are:
 Lightweight. They are usually in cottons, linens and in blends of synthetic and
natural fibers.
o Suiting and Trouser fabrics are:
 Heavier, usually blended for desired quality and comfort.
o Casual wear garments are:
 Frequently made from fabrics like canvas, gabardine and denim.
 How has technology improved the fabrics for Men‟s wear? List a few popular finishes.
o Technological development has lead to availability of improved fabric quality. Fabrics
have become lighter and supple, and several types of desirable finishes.
o Few of the popular finishes are:
 Wrinkle free
 Stain resistant
 Waterproof
 Antistatic finishes.
 What factor has brought fabrics like linen and fine cottons in trend and usage recently?
 o Increase in the official working hours of today's generation has blurred the distinction
between official hour and personal hour of men; leading to increase in popularity of fabrics
like linen & cotton.
o These fabrics provide comfort, flexibility and air absorption for use over long working
hours.
 Classic Shirt:
o Shirts cover the upper half of the body, called the Torso.
o A shirt can be cut in fitted, loose or straight cut.
o Can be styled to emphasize the neck, shoulders, chest, biceps or the waist
o Few types of Collars are:
 Band collar
 Shirt collar
 Wing collar
 Buttoned-down collar
o Shirt sleeves can be short or long, tight or loose
o The shirt hem can be straight or curved.
o The front placket of the shirt can be narrow or broad, single or double stitched.
 What can you do to a Shirt to make a man‟s shoulder look broader?
o We can add Epaulets or a Shoulder Yoke to give an impression of a broad shoulder.
 Oxford Button-Down Shirt:
o Suitable for a crisp formal look
o Usually made in solid colors, typically pastel or mid – tones
o Also in interesting stripes and small checks
 Dress Shirt:
o Usually of a light colour, and is designed specifically to be worn with ties and suits
 Hawaiian Shirt:
o Loose and airy and half sleeved, made of large foliage prints in bright, cheerful colour
fabrics in cotton.
 T-Shirt:
o Casual, non collared or collared shirt made up of knitted fabric
 What are bifurcated garments? Give 2 examples.
o Garments that are divided into 2 parts to be worn over legs are called bifurcated garments.
o For example:
 Pants/Trouser/Jeans
 Churidar/Shalwar
 Pants:
o Can be cut to be straight legged, flared or pegged
o Bottoms that may be narrow or wide, flared, or cuffed
o Can be cut with a high waist or a low waist
o With buttons or a zip fly
o Can be flat front or pleated
 Why are Pant‟s fabric infused with stretchable properties? How is this achieved?
o Pant‟s fabrics are infused with stretchable properties in order to achieve a good fit and
comfort.
o This is achieved by:
 Using various elastomeric yarns along with the main yarn during weaving.
 Casual pants:
o Made in Chinos and Khakis
 Dressy pants or Trousers:
 Refined wools and blends
 Both pleat and cuff details are optional
 Pocket treatment is minimal
  Usually consisting of slits and welts
 Baggy trousers:
 Loose around the hips but narrow down at the bottoms
 They usually have deep pleats at the waist to provide the necessary volume
 Cargo pants:
o Inspired by military uniforms
o Characterized by camouflage - inspired prints and large utility pockets
 Jeans:
o The most popular types of pants for men
o These are casual pants made up of Denim fabrics.
 Shorts:
o Shorts are informal bottoms that reveal the calf and thigh.
o Bermudas shorts:
 Reach until the knee caps in a stove pipe fashion.
 They generally have very little extraneous detail.
o Khaki and safari shorts:
 Rugged
 Detailed with buckled, straps, zippers and pockets & military detailing etc.
 Suits:
o Can be styled to:
 Formal
 Evening/Casual
 Sporty look
 What is the difference between 2-piece & 3-piece suits?
o 2-piece suits include the following in same fabric:
 Jacket
 Trouser
o 3-piece suits include the following in same fabric:
 Jacket
 Trouser
 Waistcoat
 Formal Suit:
o Elegantly cut in dark smooth fabric
o Double breasted, it can look very powerful for business attire.
o A dress shirt
o With an elegant tie/bow tie with Cuff links
 Sporty Suit:
o Coordinated with a polo neck or a T- shirt
o Made in lighter shades
o Light-weight fabrics
 What makes a suit single-breasted or double-breasted?
o Single or double breasted look of a jacket/coat depends on the overlapping of the front
bodices
 List the factors responsible for a broad and promising men‟s wear market in India today.
o There‟s a vast demand for a stylish and a professional look in the menswear category due
to extensive options in the professional careers.
o There‟s increased brand awareness among the consumers for good quality and service
standards.
o Increase in the disposable income and the willingness to spend more among the consumers.
 List the key player in Indian Men‟s wear market in India today.
o Madura Garments
o Provogue India Ltd.
 o Indian Terrain
o Raymond Apparel Ltd.
o Levis Strauss & Co.

Womenswear:
 „Clothing in past were custom made”. Explain
o Custom Made means the clothes were stitched for an individual using her body
measurements by a tailor or a dressmaker.
 Reflect on the history and evolution of home sewing.
o During earlier centuries the majority of women, however, wore clothes made at home by
the women of the house
o The introduction of the domestic sewing machine revolutionized the home manufacturing
of clothes by substantially reducing the long hours of hand sewing.
o To help in the home sewing operation, several womenswear magazines started giving
instructions on how to sew the garments.
o Later, paper patterns for fashionable styles in graded sizes became available.
o Thus, home dressmaking continued to prevail for a long time.
 Trace the origin of the need of “ready to wear‟ clothing for women‟s wear.
o At the turn of the 21st century, a new breed of very active women began to emerge.
o Women were no longer spending their lives at home.
o They were now studying, teaching, indulging in sports activities, politics and working in
offices.
o Their growing interests and activities took them out of their homes and made ready- to-
wear clothing a convenient answer to suit their new lifestyle.
o With changing times, the role of the women have become multi dimensional; from
handling office to home & to kids
o Working for home or for office ,with a hectic schedule has led to the requirement of an
easy to wear, maintain and comfortable dressing, which has become a necessity for today's
lifestyle
 What factors lead to the toning down of elaborate women‟s wear clothing to simplistic? What
other factor supported the transition?
o At the turn of the 21st century; women‟s increasing participation in sports activities,
politics and working in offices; naturally led to a gradual shift towards simple silhouettes,
away from the elaborate clothing that had prevailed in the past.
o This transition was greatly supported by the coinciding development of manufacturing
facilities for large-scale production of ready-to- wear garments.
 List a key market segments for Indian women‟s wear with the leading brands.
o Some key market segments for Indian women‟s wear are:
 Sizes
 Ethnicity
 Occasions
 Plus size
 Maternity
o Few leading brands catering to these segments are:
 Levis Curves
 Allen Solly
 Marks and Spencer
 Trace the developments from predictions to mass dispersion of fashion trends.
o Trend predictions are released at least 18 months before the actual season.
o The prevalent trends are perceived and analyzed by each company to create a mood board
suitable for their clients for a particular season.
o Couture and Prêt a Porter shows are held in Paris, London, Milan and New York.
 o All the partners in the fashion value chain attend these shows
o Fashion editors select styles they feel are prophetic, and splash trend features and stories
with glossy pictures of the styles in fashion magazines and newspapers
o Consumers become aware of the latest trends through these magazines and media
broadcasting
 How early are the fashion trends released before the actual season? Why is that?
o Trend predictions are released at least 18 months before the actual season.
o This is to allow the designer, fabric manufacturer, garment manufacturer and retailer to
plan the design and production of garments.
 What types of predictions are included in fashion forecasting?
o Color palette
o Fabric trends
o Surface
o Treatments
o Silhouettes
o Design details.
 Briefly reflect on the history of Sari in India.
o Traditionally Indian women wore draped styles
o It is only since a little more than two hundred years ago that the sari is being worn in the
present avatar
o Which is 5-1/2 yards to 8 yards with a stitched Choli or a Blouse
 Reflect on the influence of the Moghul rule on Indian clothing.
o It was during the Moghul rule that Indian women were introduced to stitched garments
such as:
 Salwar kameez
 Kalidar kurta
 Pyjama
 Sharara
 Gharara
o Karigars were specially brought in from the Moghul countries to make garments for the
Moghul royalty; who settled down in India for several generations and never went back.
 What are “karigars”?
o Karigar is an Urdu word referred to all kind of weavers, tailors and embroiderers working
in the clothing industry.
 Why do the finest tailors and embroiderers in India today belong to the Muslim community?
o During Moghul Era; Karigars were specially brought in from the Moghul countries to make
garments for the Moghul royalty; who settled down in India for several generations and
never went back. This explains the reason for the finest tailors and embroiderers belonging
to the Muslim community today.
 Moghul Style:
o Feminine, elegant and dignified
o Includes beautiful embroideries such as Chikankari, Ari work etc
 British Rule:
o Introduced:
 Tailored jackets
 Blouses
 Pants
 Dresses
 Gowns
o Indian tailors were trained by the British rulers to stitch western garments for their women
who followed their husbands to live in India.
 Elements of Design in Womenswear:
 o Color:
 Every season the palette has four groups:
 Pastel
 Neutral
 Bright
 Deep colours
 Followed by :
 Tones
 Texture
 Accents
 Look can be:
 Vintage
 Washed-out
 Fresh and soft colours
o Fabrics:
 Texture
 Handle
 Surface qualities
 Common Natural fibres:
 Cotton
 Linen
 Silk
 Wool
 Blend fabrics: Give the desired qualities with a natural feel and comfort
 Soft
 Stretchable
 User-friendly
 Easy to-care
 Details:
 Printed and woven designs:
o Small delicate florals (as in Laura Ashley prints)
o Large florals in bold colours
o Soft water colours
o Geometric designs
o Stripes (both broad and thin)
o Checks - Gingham, madras and small plaids
 Surface embellishments:
o Appliqués
o Hand and machine embroideries
 Trim:
o Buttons
o Zips
o Piping
o Interlinings
 Shape/Silhouettes:
 A silhouette is the shape or the outline of the clothing when worn.
 Garment Collection:
o Designed as a group of coordinated pieces that can be made from:
 Fabrics
 Colour palette
 Details….following the same story
o With 10-15 garment pieces
 o Separate collections are designed for:
 Evening wear
 Sport wear
 Casual wear
 Street wear
 Formal wear
 Night wear
 Maternity wear
o Customer Categories:
 Womens
 Missy
 Petite
 Junior.
 Key styles in Women‟s wear:
o Dresses:
 Long continuous garments worn over the body
 Variations in dresses can be achieved through manipulating its:
 Length
 Waist line
 Flare
 Seams.
 Variations:
 Empire line
 Princess
 Shift
o Blouses:
 Blouses cover the upper half of the body of a female
 Styles can be achieved with variations:
 Bodice
 Collar
 Sleeves
 Placket
o Skirts:
 Skirts cover the lower half of the body
 They can be:
 Straight
 Flared
 Gathered
 Pleated
 Tiered
 Paneled
 Skirts can vary in length from Mid thigh to ankle.
 Pants:
o Pants are bifurcated garments for lower half of the body
o Some of the styles of pants are:
 Straight
 Bell bottom
 Capri
 Harem
 Jodhpurs
 Kurta & Salwar:
o Kurta & Salwar are paired ensembles from the continent of Asia.
 o Kurta covers the upper half of the body and salwar, the bifurcated garment covers the lower
half.
o Some of the variations in kurta styling are:
 Kalidar
 Kurta with yoke
 A- line
 Straight kurta.
o Variations of Slawar are:
 Churidar
 Patiala salwars
 Sari Blouse:
o Sari blouses are stitched tops worn with draped saris.
o Few variations are:
 Plain
 Choli

Childrenswear:
 Reflect on the factors leading to the growth of children‟s wear.
o Children today have gained enormous exposure and knowledge.
o Increased disposable income of both working parents
o Nuclear families with only one or two children
o Children are being increasingly pampered by parents with toys, clothes, access to
computers, films, etc.
 List some of the major influences on children‟s wear.
o Major influences on children's wear can be attributed to:
o Cartoon characters
o Films
o Bestseller novels for children
o Latest technology
o Toys
o TV channels
o Individual sports
 What are the major sources of exposure and awareness of fashion trends & styles amongst today‟s
children?
o Media
o Social networking sites like facebook and twitter,
o Play stations
o Online shopping
o Peer groups
 What measures do the manufacturers take to attract the little customers of Children‟s wear
category?
o Manufacturers are forging tie-ups with:
 TV channels
 Promoters of cartoon characters
 Other popular characters….to create a host of special lines of clothing and
accessories.
o Innovative ideas are being employed to launch products for children in the market.
 Reflect on the influence of sports on children‟s wear.
o The popularity of sportswear has led to the development of many new fabrics which are:
 Breathable
 Highly absorbent
 Stretchable.
 o It has also changed the technology of manufacturing and finishing.
o The influence of games such as football, basketball, baseball, cricket and hockey can be
seen in the styling of:
 Track suits
 Sweat shirts
 Cycling and boxer shorts
 How is children‟s wear category more challenging than Menswear or Womenswear?
o Childrenswear apparel category is different & more challenging from menswear and
womenswear because:
 Children continue to grow.
 The changing body shape of the child as he/she grow and the basic requirements at
different stages of this growth must be well understood before designing or creating
a suitable garment for the child.
 Why are no 3D trims used in Newborn clothing?
o Newborns are children aged from birth to few months.
o They spend most of the time sleeping or lying on their backs, therefore the garments are
designed while keeping in mind their comfort, safety and styling factors.
o Hence; minimum or no 3D trims are used in these clothes in order to avoid abrasion and
discomfort to the child.
 What are the popular options used in newborn clothing instead of buttons?
o Snap Buttons and Velcro Strips are preferred in garments for newborns.
 Name a few fabrics popular in newborn clothing.
o Fabrics:
 Flannels
 Knits….in soft cottons and light in weight are used in newborn's clothing.
 What is the age range for Infant Clothing? What factors are to be considered while designing for
this category?
o Infants are children from the age category of 3 months to 1 year.
o An infant's:
 Weight
 Head size
 Age…..are the major criteria's to be considered while selecting a garment.
 What is the difference in proportion between head size & body between a small child & an adults?
o The head size of a small child is one fifth of his height, while for an adult it is one eighth of
the body height.
 What fabrics are best suited for infant wears & why?
o Fabrics like:
 Flannel
 Jersey knits
 Polar fleece in cottons and other natural fibers are selected for infants.
o These are soft in handfeel and provide comfort to the tiny wearer who has supple and
sensitive skin.
 What print details are popular in infant clothing?
o Subtle, pastel colours with polka dots, nursery prints, checks and cartoon characters are
preferred for prints. Solid colour fabrics are also in huge demand for garments.
 What trims are preferred for infant wears?
o Trims used in infant's garments are less complicated and easy to handle like:
 Velcro
 Snap buttons
 Soft laces etc.
 Toddler Clothing:
o Toddlers are children belonging to the age group of 1 year to 4 years.
  Why are easy to care & maintain category preferred for toddlers? Give examples.
o In this age group, the child develops basic motor skills and becomes physically more
active. On account of their energetic behaviour and rapidly growing body, the fabrics
preferred for their garments are from the easy to care and maintain category.
o Fabrics like:
 Cambric
 Poplins
 Corduroys
 Light weight denims,
 Jersey knits
 Polar fleece
 What kind of colors and prints are preferred for toddler wears?
o Fabrics with bright colour palettes are usually selected for this age group.
o Printed and woven fabrics of:
 Gingham checks
 Stripes
 Polka dots
 Popular themes like cartoon characters….are popular highlights for toddler's
clothing.
 What colors are popularly associated with young boys & girls?
o The colours of girl's garments are preferred to be pink and those for boys to be blue.
 Pre-Teens & Teens Clothing:
o Preteen:
 Age group of children from 5 years to 12 years
o Teens:
 Age group from 13 years to 18 years
o Adolescence:
 Counted from the age of 15 years to 18 years, which becomes a part of teen age
group.
 What are the prime characteristics of pre-teens & teens clothing?
o This age group is characterized with the inset of puberty in boys and girls at various age
growths.
o The average onset of puberty is at 10 or 11 for girls
o The average onset of puberty is at age 11 or 12 for boys.
 Some of the most significant aspects of pubertal development involves distinctive
physiological changes in individual's:
 Height,
 Weight
 Body composition.
 What factors make pre-teens & teens clothing market highly lucrative for business?
o The manufacturers and retailers are capturing a huge market of licensed product for
apparel, specially undergarments and nightwear of preteens and teens.
o Character licensed clothing is a very important aspect of business for this segment, since it
is closely associated to adventure, sports and fashion.
o Since, the turnover of garments is very fast in this segment it is hence very lucrative for
business.

Trims:
 What are Trims?
o Trims are functional and decorative details applied to a garment.
o Trims are viewed as a value addition to a basic garment that would increase its pricing.
 Differentiate between Functional & Decorative Trims with examples?
 o Functional Trims:
 Functional Trims are the ones that add utility to a garment.
o Buttons
o Zippers
o Velcro
 Decorative Trims are the ones that increase the aesthetic appeal of the
garment.
o Appliqués
o Ribbons
o Laces
 Why should trims be selected & used carefully on garments?
o Trims are viewed as a value addition to a basic garment that would increase its pricing.
o But random trim application may not only increase the cost of the garment it may also may
adversely affect the aesthetic appeal of the garment.
 What points should be kept in mind for the application of trims on a garment?
o Trims should complement the design of the garment.
o The trim cost should be within the framework of the garment price.
o The material of the trim should be compatible with that of the garment fabric.
 Which 2 categories use trims most frequently & how?
o Two design areas that use trims frequently are:
 Childrenswear:
 Appliqué work and laces are often used on children's clothing as a
decorative detail, adding value to the overall look of the garment
 Womenswear lingerie:
 Lingerie uses laces, appliqués and special machine edgings to give a delicate
feminine look
 What is “lingerie”?
o Lingerie is a French word for women's inner wear.
 Why was the use of buttons a taboo for a long time before becoming essential?
o Buttons were invented about 800 years ago.
o But for centuries people who wore buttons were considered morally loose because they
could undress much faster than those who wore clothing with lacings and strapping.
o Later, buttons became the fashion rage, and they were used both ornamentally and
functionally.
 Write a note on Buttons & Buttonholes.
o Buttons:
 Buttons are available in a variety of:
o Sizes
o Shapes
o Material
o Colours
o Designs.
 The size of the button is governed by its 'line'.
 Line gives the diameter of the button. Thus higher the number of line bigger
the button.
o Buttonholes:
 Buttonholes are slits made in one of the two parts of a placket through
which the buttons slip to close the placket.
 Button holes can be:
o Machine-made
o Hand-made
o Bound.
  Accurate positioning of button and buttonholes is important for functional
buttons
 What are Hardwares in apparel? What categories of apparel they are generally used in?
o Hardware refers to the metal fastenings used in luggage and for closures, such as the:
 Dog leash clip
 Hardware snap
 Buckles
 Locks.
o Apparel that often use hardware fastenings as functional and decorative details are:
 Casual wear trousers
 Jackets
 Outer wear
 Write a short note on Zipper?
o The zip is a sliding closure applied on straight plackets.
o It can be used as a functional or decorative element.
o The zip is available in almost every length and colour, and it can be dyed in almost any
shade.
o Heavy duty industrial zips with contrasting tape and a novelty puller are a popular design
detail for children's wear.
o Delicate, concealed zips with transparent tape are ideal for formal clothes such as evening
gowns and dresses.
 What are Lacings & how are they used in clothing?
o Lacings, like cords or spaghetti straps, can be threaded through metal eyelets set into each
side of a placket.
o Lacings can be used as a design detail to create a cowboy or a peasant look depending on
the look desired.
o Fabric loops are an alternative to eyelets.
o Ties are like braids used to secure the opening in a garment.
o They are adaptable to both casual and formal styles. Ties made from garment fabric are
popular on ethnic garments.
 What are Linear Trims? List examples with details.
o Linear trims are decorative stitches applied to seam lines and garment edges.
o These stitches can be created on domestic sewing machines and are usually the least
expensive of trims.
o The following are examples of linear trims with the relevant look and styling effect on the
fabric or garment:
 The corded edge:
 Outlines and defines the edge it is stitched on.
 The corded seam:
 Gives a raised effect.
 Faggoting:
 Openwork is most effective for straight lines.
 Multi-needle top stitching:
 Can be used with novelty
 What are Shaped Edges and how can they pose a problem in garments?
o Shaped edges are essentially decorative
o They are used sparingly because they pose technical problems.
o For example, decorative effects on the hemlines of skirts and pants prevent length
alterations. If the hem is raised or lowered, the design impact is lost.
 List & explain some examples of Shaped Edges.
o Scalloped edge:
 Curved stitches on the edges of a garment hem, sleeve or a collar.
 o Lettuce edge:
 Straight stitches on pleated frills and ruffles, resembles the edges of lettuce leaves.
o Crochet edging:
 Hand crafted lace applied on the edges of a garment hem, sleeve or collar.
o Picot edge:
 Rolled stitches on the edges of light fabrics.
 What are Frills or Ruffles? List its types.
o Frills or ruffles are straight or circular shaped fabric gathered along the edge at the hem, on
the edge of the garment, or as an area trim.
o There are several varieties of ruffles:
 Straight ruffle
 Lace ruffle
 Simple straight ruffle
 Bias ruffle
 Pleated ruffle
 Area ruffle
 Explain Circular Ruffles. Give its variations.
o The circular ruffle usually has a smooth, ungathered edge attached to the seam, and the
ruffle makes a graceful, curved edge.
o There are several variations of the circular:
 Ruffle:
 Cascade
 Large ruffle at hem
 Circular ruffle with wired edge
 Differntiate between Ribbons, Braids & Rick rack.
o Ribbons and braids are available in a wide variety of colours, widths, weaves and styles.
o They range from very wide metallic fancies to the classic narrow military braids.
o Braid or ribbon should be stitched on a garment in a straight line.
o Rickrack is a curvy zigzag braid usually used in children's garments.
 What is the technique of Applique work? Which category of clothing are they most suitable for?
o Appliqués are shaped pieces of fabric sewn to a garment with decorative stitches.
o Usually, appliqués are simple or decorative graphic shapes applied flat on the surface of the
base fabric or are stuffed to give a three dimensional effect.
o This type of trim is particularly suitable for children's wear.
 Trace the evolution of Studs over the time.
o Studs were first used by denim brand: Levi-Strauss as a means of reinforcing the seams on
work pants designed for miners in the Californian gold fields.
o The rivet fastened pockets and seams are very durable, but today studs can be classified as
decorative as well as functional trims.
o Types of studs include:
 Rivet-like nail heads
 Rhinestones.
 What are Heat Transfer Print?
 These trims decorations / prints are heat set on the garments by a machine.
 The machine applies heat to the printed paper and hence transfers the printed design
on the fabric of the garment.