AIR Modeller - Issue 71 (2017 04-05)

AIR 71 cover.
qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2017 10:32 Page 1
71
APRIL/MAY 2017 • £6.50 UK $15.99
www.mengafvmodeller.com
April / May 2017
MENG AIR MODELLER
PHANTOM MENACE
ALBERT TUREKZEK’S OLD SCHOOL 1:72 F4
AIR 71 Apr/May 2017.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/03/2017 12:04 Page 222
CONTENTS
2 Fw190 D13
Emmanuel Pernes models the long-nose yellow ten.
12 Short Sterling Part 7

Megas Tsonos continues to scratchbuild the heavy bomber in 1:48.
20 Zero Hero
Tamiya’s 1:48 kit detailed by Renzo Bortolotto.
28 Phantom Menace
Albert Turekzek’s vintage 1:72 F4.
36 P-39 Aircobra
Kevin Futter tackles the 1:32 Kitty Hawk kit.
44 Air Borne
New releases.
56 Digital Snake Skin

Mac Patterson’s 1:35 Supercobra
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1
The Focke Wulf 190 D is one of my favourite aircraft of

all time with it's pure and aggressive lines. Amongst all
the types and versions, the D 13 must surely represent
the ultimate ‘Butcher Bird’. More so, for a modeller like
me who loves to paint with the airbrush, the most
emblematic D 13, Yellow 10, is the ultimate painting
challenge.
The only long-nosed Fw 190 D-13 to have survived the

war is now part of the Flying Heritage Collection in the
U.S. It entered service in March of 1945 and served
with the JG 26 with Major Franz Götz. In May, 1945,
after the end of the war, Major Götz flew this D-13 to
the RAF base in Flensburg, Germany, and surrendered.
The ‘Dora’ has been restored close to flyable condition
but remains on the ground due to it’s rarity.
To replicate this aircraft I've chosen the Hobbyboss kit.

Far from a ‘snap-fit-kit’, it's a well designed and
complete model. It sits in between the Eduard and
Tamiya kits for ease of build and level of detail.
However, be careful if you want to do a D 11, the
dedicated box from Hobbyboss doesn't allow you to
build a D 11, but to keep me happy is a perfect match
for a D 13.
2
3
A few years ago I scratchbuilt an engine bay for the Tamiya

‘190D, having taken moulds from the parts I cast them in
resin for this project although little is seen on the finished
model. The Hobbyboss cockpit is very close to the Tamiya
version, seatbelts from HGW were added. I’d heard good
reports about Akan paints and chose their RLM 66 for the
cockpit which I found required lightening to suit my taste.
Some wiring detail was added

and an old Verlinden MG151
was mounted in the ‘V’ of the
Jumo 213E engine, again
barely visible on the finished
model but I know it’s there!
Brake lines are always a

worthwhile yet simple
addition.
The Hobbyboss kit builds

precisely and easily with
minimum fuss or filler, good
news as I knew the paint
scheme would take most of
the time on this project.
My reference showed unpainted wheel

wells towards the end of the war.
Exhaust outlets were

detailed by drilling and
carving with a sharp
blade, liquid cement
provided a final
smoothing
4
RLM 75 is applied on the

uppersides. The colour goes
over the edges of the wings.
First, I painted the fuselage and part of the undersides in RLM 76. The
wooden panel in the middle of the fuselage is painted in RLM 65. Wings are
finished in a bare metal with some panels darkened with graphite powder
while others are lightened with a metallic watercolour crayon.
Then, the RLM 82 light green is applied.

It’s a long process with a highly diluted
mix and many breaks are necessary to
rest the hand and to clean the airbrush,
all necessary when replicating such a
tight and fine pattern.
The finished camo pattern has a very random

appearance but tests your airbrushing skills to the max!
5
Masks are done with

‘Oromask’ to airbrush the
white crosses on the wings.
They will be masked again
when dry before we
continue to apply the
pattern around them.
The RLM 81 Braunviolett is a mix of Gunze H 421 and Gunze H 84, because
the Gunze braunviolett is too green for me. You need to strongly dilute the
paint, chose a low pressure setting on the compressor and work close to the
surface. Don’t worry if you overspray a little bit the mottling, you’ll be able to
go back to your work later with the lighter shades.
To remove the overspray, I worked back into the patterns with very highly
diluted mixes ot the lighter shades. I began with the green along the brown
spots of the pattern. As it’s highly diluted and lighter than the brown any
slight overspray here won’t show. Grey tones finishing with the lightest were
applied last.
working back-in with previous

colours to eliminate any overspray is
time-consuming but the final result
gives well defined edges.
The squadron white and black stripes were painted, then the
top oversprayed with light green. I left a transparent
appearance in places as the actual aircraft.
6
My references showed the aircraft had heavy weathering to the

underside. Note the fluid stains and streaks. Flaps were often made
from wood at the end of the war to save on strategic materials.
The exhaust stains are airbrushed with a diluted mix of Gunze brown and black. Many passes
are necessary to keep the transparency of the stains as they get further from the exhaust
outlets.
The centre of the exhaust stain is airbrushed with a light cream. You need to stay close to the
surface and near the centre of the last exhaust pipe.
The last step is delicate. With a stiff brush soaked in alcohol, streak the exhaust stains from top
to bottom. Working closely with reference images helps with the realism on features like this, we
rarely see bright orange rust and pure black exhaust stains. The gloss varnish applied before
the decals will help protect this subtle work.
Oil streaks are made on the After an all-over matt varnish

propeller and spinner with a dirt and footsteps on the wing
thin felt pen. root were created with
pigments removed with small
The model is gloss varnished pieces of masking tape.
before applying the decals. They
come from various manufacturers
(Aeromaster, Kommandeur,
Eduard…).
7
8
9
SHORT STIRLING
In part eight the final details of the construction process are
covered before we move on to the start of the painting process as
well as the all important weathering of the Stirling.
The fuselage end frame was added and I made the first dry fit of the Modelling the turret rotated like this allowed the access doors to be open to show
rear turret to check that all was well. Indeed the fuselage was the interior details.
12 complete and ready for painting. The turret was removed again and
was glued in place shortly before the model entered the showcase.
part eight
MEGAS TSONOS SCRATCHBUILDS THE HEAVY BOMBER IN 1:48
As for the turret itself, this is the Tamiya Avro Lancaster Nash and Thompson The principal difference between the two rear turret types was that the Type
Type FN20 rear turret cupola, married to a fully revised interior, which FN4 used ammunition boxes located in the turret itself, while the Type FN20
converted the turret to the previous Type FN4 with which the Stirling Mk.I used an ingenious system of feeding its guns from boxes located in the
series I was equipped. centre of the fuselage via the bottom of the turret through its rotating ring. I
modelled the ammo boxes and installed them on the floor immediately
behind the transparency.
I also deployed the flap which opened to counter the

aerodynamic effect felt on the aircraft by the turret rotation
in the opposite direction. To complete the picture, I added
a diagonal stiffening frame, made from a length of photo-
etched rivet strips from Eduard (prod. code # 00 099). The
frame mentioned was peculiar to the Type FN4 turrets only.
A bath was prepared that consisted of a part of

brass surface corrosive liquid (which is used to
patinate jewellery) to five parts of water. Extreme
I used the Master brass gun barrels for the .303 care was taken as the chemical used is strong,
guns, which are of exceptional quality. and the area was well ventilated during this
process.
The gun barrels were suspended on a piece of

styrene and immersed in the solution. By brushing The immersion lasted for exactly two minutes. ... and wiped dry. I buffed them slightly and a 13
them gently, I made sure that the solution Then the gun metal looking barrels were cleaned metallic shine emerged.
penetrated all parts of the barrel’s surface to in water...
obtain a uniform finished appearance.
The barrels were ready for installing on both turrets. I used tweezers with caution in
order to not scratch the patinated surface of the barrels. Whilst on the rear fuselage
area, we should look at the emergency exit hatch. Contemporary photos show that
on the inner side of the hatch, the rear gunner’s parachute was stowed as well as a
cylindrical container for the stowage of an oxygen bottle or a fire extinguisher. The
hatch was suspended by a cord when opened for maintenance.The hatch and its
interior details were made of styrene as seen on the real hatch
I suspended the hatch (after painting) in much the same way as the real The entrance door to the rear fuselage was opening inwards and to the rear.
thing, using white coloured copper wire to simulate the cord used. As it would not be entirely visible, I only used a plain piece of black plasticard
cut to shape; after the decal ‘S’ was applied I glued the door in place.
The entry ladder was made of Evergreen rods and cemented in place after Out of a piece of modelling board, I crafted the Type 3 DF loop aerodynamic
the door. fairing and using a brass pin I installed it on the fuselage.
Seen in position, the DF loop was

painted in two tones of scale
black. In front of the DF loop, the
astrodome was made of a piece
of clear acetate heated and
simply pressed over a mould. In
the same photo, one can see the
antenna mast complete with its
anti-vibration and support cables
which formed an inverted Vee
and which sported the early
Stirling installation of the pitot
tube on top. The antenna mast
was made of wood and the pitot
tube from a piece of stainless
steel tubing (Scale Caliber Hard
Tube 04).
14
As one of the first ten Short Stirlings to be produced at Shorts Belfast factory, the model at an earlier stage in the flying career of N6004. As the leading
N6004 was equipped with de-icer boots. Clearly noted by Mr. M.J.F. Bowyer edges were scribed and riveted, I used Tri-Foil Malleable Lead sheet, which
in his book ‘The Stirling Bomber’ (Faber & Faber Ltd, 1980, p.43), it signified is thin enough to simulate the de-icers and cover the previously detailed
N6004 was a rare bird; but the de-icers were (and still are) a piece of areas at the same time.Then I masked and airbrushed a mix of Humbrol Matt
equipment, an aeroplane can fly without. The long service history of N6004 Black 33 and White Ensign Models ACRN22 R.A.F. /F.A.A. Red (Matt). This
ensured the de-icers were not on-wing for long. I decided in favour of mixture created a dark chocolate colour, peculiar to the rubber de-icers.
installing them rather belatedly, as the painting was already done, to show
The Lorenz Beam Approach antenna was made of a brass

tube as its position on the fuselage makes in prone to
damage by mishandling. I used a small piece of wood for
the front end and a small quantity of styrene molten in
When thoroughly dry, the de-icers were lightly buffed to become more satin as their rubber polystyrene cement, to create the antenna attaching fairings
surfaces go matt only after prolonged on-wing service. Moreover, I stained them with artists’ on the fuselage. The finished antenna was painted in the
oils (mostly black) in the vicinity of the engines. fuselage colour.
I considered it is appropriate for the Stirling to be

put in my showcase alongside some ground
equipment so the size of the aircraft could be
better appreciated. For this purpose I modelled
the access panel for the electrical socket in the
opened position, along with the ground power
electrical cable plug. I hope some time in the
foreseeable future to connect the trolley
accumulator and the electrical cable to complete
the picture. One of the small details and therefore easily missed are the IFF lights, and the F24 camera. The lights
are clear 1,5mm ‘little-lenses’ (modellingtools.co.uk), cemented with CA glue in recesses and covered
by clear acetate discs (cut with a punch-and-die tool), and painted in the appropriate clear colours of
green, red and amber. The F24 camera came from a Tamiya Mosquito, and its lenses came also from
the ‘little-lenses’ range.
Finally, a closer look at the twin landing lights. I made a cut into the modelling board comprising the
leading edge, and modelled the visible part of the wing structure into the recess. When the structure was
The navigation (front) and formation (rear) lights is
finished, I sanded down the surrounding area as indicated by the yellow line, deep enough to glue the
clear styrene block. It is drilled and painted to
acetate clear part flush and as far as possible from the area that was to remain transparent; this area 15
simulate the light bulb. Then it was cemented in
was masked and the surrounding acetate was finished as the rest of the wing. The finished landing lights
place and sanded to the wingtip shape.
are shown in the right photo.
PAINTING THE STIRLING ‘B’ patterns (reminiscent of the pre-war directives issued) were
found to exist. I went as far as to check for possible reverse
The painting added two long months to the build. I say long printed photographs in the books as this is a hidden danger that
because it is NOT what one might think as a ‘boring can lead to erroneous conclusions as regards ‘A’ and ‘B’ patterns.
green/earth/black’ or, the even more naive –“oh, one more typically The fuselage sides (down to the wings leading and trailing edges)
British R.A.F. scheme” – way of approaching the subject. of a number of early Stirlings were painted in the upper
The early Stirlings were painted in a more or less standard camouflage colours, which led the Squadrons to repaint them with
disruptive temperate land scheme of Dark Earth and Dark Green Special Night; this, in turn, led to some interesting paintwork,
(of the ‘type S’ formula which was then coming into use). Following slowly giving way to the standard camouflage application as more
the January 1940 adoption of the RDM2 Black or Special Night for and more bombers were entering service. N6004 was an example
the painting of all night bombers, the first Stirlings were painted in of Squadron repainting, its new black, hastily applied Special Night
a very matt, sooty black underside colour which was unstable and clearly standing out in relation to the already worn factory-applied
peeled badly after only a few months of service. paint.
A detailed factory drawing containing all dimensions with regard to As can be seen in the contemporary colour photos the Stirling the
colour demarcation lines was prepared by Short Bros. and is upper camouflage colours on the rear fuselage top were suffering
reproduced in J.M.F. Bowyer’s book ’The Stirling Bomber’. from intense discolouration, a fact I had to attend to very carefully.
Photographic evidence proved that the scheme described in the With the objectives being set, I went on with the task of masking
drawing was worn by even and odd-serialled aircraft alike; no ‘A’ or the model.
The engine blocks, the undercarriage and the canopy were masked as single The first step was to airbrush the entire upper surfaces with Xtracolor X2
units with plastic wrapping. For the transparencies I used Mr. Hobby Mr. R.A.F. Dark Earth. An Olympos HP101 was used which combined the wide,
Masking Sol R. high quality spray pattern I needed, with a constant colour thickness.
I left the model for two days to allow for the paint to dry thoroughly. It usually takes much
less time but it is advisable to be on the safe side, as the model was to be entirely
masked with Frisket film prior to the next colour application. The Frisket film was cut to
the camouflage pattern as per the Short Bros. drawing, and sprayed with the second
colour, Xtracolor X1 Dark Green. I removed the masking film immediately after painting
while the dark green was still wet. Then the strict line between the two colours was made
‘sprayed’; I used an Iwata Custom Micron B airbrush, its hairline spraying abilities being
second to none when it comes to airbrushing demarcation lines.
Right The glossy undersides are looking much darker than they really are, but the shade
was restored when the model was varnished in Xtracolor XDFF Matt Varnish.
Before commencing with the weathering of the model, the Type B roundels were painted
so as to be weathered along the rest of the wings.
16
The second step was to paint the model’s black undersides. It must be and airbrushed the darker one on the undersides of the fuselage and the
remembered that the Stirling I was modelling was repainted at Squadron wings. Then I painted the lighter shade on the fuselage sides. I finished the
level with a new coat of Special Night on the fuselage sides. So I had to: (a) painting of the ‘blacks’ with the application of the ‘new’ black; though it was
keep the undersides lighter but NOT deviate from the dark appearance a done after the weathering of the model. In this way I gained the much-
bomber presented, (b) indicate the contrast of the two shades of black on the needed contrast between the old and new colours. I made three different
fuselage sides, (c) observe the scale effect on all shades. Considering the mixes of Humbrol 21 Gloss Black, each time with a different percentage of
fact that sunlight makes a given colour appear lighter on the sides of an Xtracolor X219 RLM61. As I am not the drops-counting type, I only kept an
object in relation to its undersides, I made two different shades of worn black, even contrast between the three mixes. The weathering would do the rest.
In this stage, I gave the entire upper surfaces a wash of A. Mig No.1614 The upper fuselage discolouration was done with the gentle airbrushing of
Neutral Brown. The airbrushed wash was quickly wiped with a soft napkin, lighter shades of the dark earth and dark green between the frame and
leaving just enough to bring out the scribed details. Note that the final coat of stringer scribed lines.
‘new’ black is not applied yet.
The wash technique to the undersurfaces was done with caution, as it has no
Darker colours were also airbrushed on the panel lines and rivet lines to good impact on black-coloured surfaces. It was done on the model only because
effect. I also used the Tamiya Weathering Master sets of pastel colours, after from the start it was planned to be painted in greyish shades so the contrast
the upper fuselage was matt-varnished. between the basic colours and the wash was to be almost nonexistent.
I used a rich amount of Mr Hobby

Mr.Color No.30 Flat Base mixed
with No.46 Clear and thinned with
Mr. Levelling Thinner; I airbrushed
it randomly, and the solution -
being rich in flat base- dried white.
In this way, I brought out some
rivet detail in the form of paint
flaking, instead of using the more
intense-looking aluminium paint.
As the photo reveals, the work

described previously was kept to a
minimum.
17
Before the model was matt-varnished, I gave it a heavy wash on the wing upper
surfaces, behind the engines using a 50/50 mixture of black and raw umber artist’s oils
diluted in white spirit and airbrushed. Then I wiped some of it, leaving the rest to appear
as oily dirt. The procedure darkened the camouflage colours in the area considerably.
Then I applied a first layer of oil leaks, this time by brushing on black oil streaks; I
masked the area in front of the main spar so when the masking tape was removed, the
leaking oil could be seen emerging at the joint of the main spar with the wing rear
section. This was exactly the case on the real Stirlings as well. I left the oils to dry and I
airbrushed the model with Xtracolor XDFF Matt Varnish.
The area in front of the main spar was also affected by the
engines; so following the varnishing of the model, I went on to
simulate the exhaust stains. I took care not to make the stains
too close to the engine exhausts, as the wings dihedral in
relation to the position of the exhaust outlets made four
different exhaust marks on their surface; not to mention the
starboard ones being closer to the leading edge than the port
ones!
18
The oil staining procedure was also applied to the lower portion of the flap
upper sides which are exposed when the flaps are retracted.
On the wing undersurfaces of the Stirling Mk.Is the oil leaking from the oil coolers
(located inside the wings between the engines) was making enormous staining. The
situation was made better after the introduction of the Mk.III into service when the oil
coolers were relocated under the engines. On the model, I used enamel gloss varnish
to simulate the leaking oil. I directed the ‘leaking oil’ towards the fuselage as was
imposed by the wing dihedral.
19
THE PROJECT CONTINUES IN THE NEXT ISSUE
20
JNAF Ace Takeo Tanimizu’s A6M5a
Renzo Bortolotto
21
A LITTLE ABOUT TAKEO THE TAMIYA KIT

Takeo Tanimizu (谷水竹雄 his name in Tamiya’s brand is a guarantee of quality, no The main wing and tail sections were
Japanese) is the pilot of the aircraft I doubt about it. This kit appears reduced attached to the fuselage, I then placed the
wanted to replicate, stationed in Japan in from the 1:32 version, already rich with moving parts which had any hollow areas
1945. In the last months of WWII Tanimizu details I still wanted to add some missing blanked with styrene strip. A few drops of
flew the latest version of the Zero, the parts, such as various pipes and wiring liquid filler (Gunze Mr Surfacer 500) diluted
A6M5c, this is the earlier ‘a’ version. inside the cockpit, making small changes with 'Tamiya Lacquer Thinner' were
When discussing the ‘Rising Sun’ pilots, it and adding some components to the brushed along the joints of the wings, tail
is almost important to mention Saburo interior taken from an Eduard detail set. surfaces and between fuselage and wings.
Sakai, even though other pilots like him The joint of the fuselage halves can Once dried, I removed the excess of filler
have distinguished themselves by sometimes be the making of it kit, this by using a solvent designed to remove nail
performing heroic acts, as did Tanimizu. proved excellent with 'green cap' Tamiya varnish for people with sensitive skin.
For example, on October 31st, 1944 cement being the only thing required. After Liquid grey surface primer from Tamiya
chasing a formation of B-24s, Tanimizu drying I sanded the fuselage joint without was sprayed only on areas which I worked-
shot down one of the bombers and the need of fillers. So even though we have on the most; it usually helps me locate
seriously damaged another. Finding himself Tamiya’s legendary quality and fit, there’s imperfections and, sometimes, it helps
in difficulty the damaged bomber still a few things that need addressing and sealing the parts once sanded.
attempted a forced landing on the return date the kit somewhat. For example, I had To conclude construction, I sanded the
flight but crashed in the mountains not far to correct an inaccurate fitting of the upper whole model with fine abrasive and painted
away from its base. Takeo Tanimizu only wing roots with the fuselage (a common kit it allover with Gunze H-11 Matt White. I
received notice of this in the 1950s. problem). Strips of Evergreen and always paint my models starting from a
At the end of the conflict in WWII the continued dry fitting overcame the gap so white base finding it helps the colours
valiant sergeant of the JNAF was credited it needed little more than a wipe over with become more vivid and easily controlled.
with 32 victories. Mr Surfacer. For added interest to the After the white acrylic was dry, I sanded it
finished display I cut all the movable all again with 2600 grade paper, making
control surfaces so to place them in surfaces super-smooth to prepare for the
different positions. next step.
Some wiring
and home-
made details
enhance the
cockpit a little.
Tamiya XF-71 looked a

little bright but a dark
brown wash toned it down
to my liking.
Eduard’s pre-coloured
instruments add a great
element of sharp detail
22
In order to place the 20 mm cannons (Master

Model product AM-48-020), I created a support to
hold the barrels allowing me to paint them
separately and place them in the final fitting stage.
An annoying groove was evedent at the

wing root. A strip of Evergreen was
added to the wing and shaped until a
perfect join was achieved.
CA gel allows more time to

position the flaps exactly.
To add a more dramatic look to the

zero control surfaces were separated
to be replaced at angles. Any visible
gaps were filled with styrene strip.
Both wings required the Thinned Mr Surfacer will

root joint correcting. deal with most fine gaps.
I remove excess Mr Surfacer Tamiya surface primer is thinned

with a nail polish remover and airbrushed on the areas I’ve
designed for sensitive skin; modified or filled to check for
regular remover would cause inperfections.
the styrene to melt.
23
Gunze white H-11 was applied

overall and buffed with 2600 grade
abrasive paper. I find white is a
better base colour for Alclad than
I found AKI’s Heavy The green tones must be
black which is often recommended. Chipping fluid best worked with acrylics to allow
Alclad’s own ‘Honey’ clear primer is applied in several the chipping fluid to reveal the
applied prior to the metallic. light, dusted coats. metallic underneath.
PAINTING aluminium dried completely, I gave a few necessary to act decisively at this point;
Inspiration for this project was to recreate a coats of 'Heavy Chipping' from AK wet the surface and after a few seconds
weathered Japanese aircraft as it was Interactive with an airbrush. It should be the colour looks like it almost begins to run.
usually seen towards the end of the war. To sprayed from a distance, giving several If you wish to obtain more sharp-edged
reproduce bare metal surfaces I only use coats and making sure that before every paint chips, simply wet just the brush. By
Alclad II colours, which, I consider to be the passage the product has dried out (using a doing so you will have to scrub a little more
best on the market. In order to obtain a hairdryer will speed the process). When dry heavily with the brush in a stabbing motion.
good result, it is very important to use its I was ready for the green top-coat. It’s useful to have some spare parts or
own base coat, as I did by spraying “Honey With the use of an airbrush, I made a mix plastic card to practice on if you’ve never
Primer” clear base, to avoid any potential of different shades of green by using tried a chipping effect before.
problems. Through this process the surface Gunze H-59 and H-60 and Tamiya XF-43 Every time a section is finished, gently dry
becomes glossy and, once the product and XF-61, making sure to complete the it with a paper towel to avoid ‘halos’ and to
dries, it will be ready to receive any Alclad job in one session because once you finish stop reactions on the surface paint.
II shades of metal. I chose ALC-101 the chipped effect, it is impossible to go For the lower parts I choose Gunze H-61
aluminim. I airbrushed it on the areas, back at previous step! IJN Grey. To reproduce the anti corrosion
which later will be ‘chipped’, after the Then, working by sections, I wetted the colour, I painted all the areas such as the
surface and I start to 'scrub' the area where internal flaps, housing flaps,wheels bay
I want to remove the surface colour with a and wheels covers with green / blue
flat brush, preferably a bit worn). It is Gunze H-63.
Scrubbing the surface with

various brushes and warm
water creates a realistic effect
with good control. AKI also
produce ‘Chipping’ fluid which
results in finer effects lifting less
of the surface colour.
24
A base coat of
black is followed by
lining the detail in
with a 0/4brush.
Copper wire is used

for the ignition
cable, inserted into
drilled holes.
More chipping on the classic

red-brown spinner, note also
the ‘directional’ weathering
on the blades.
The effect of a dark Gloss varnish base

brown wash can be and sealer coat always
seen on the finished help the decals hug
engine. the surface.
In order to prepare the surface to apply Another layer of clear diluted gloss is then rivets with a fine brush. The excess was
decals, I find it necessary to give two coats needed to protect the decals. gently removed with wet ultrafine 2600
of clear gloss (Gunze H-30) after the Working on the underside of the aircraft I abrasive. A final layer of clear gloss was
painting phase. The decals I have chosen used ‘Panel liners’ products from AK, a set airbrushed to seal all the work so far.
are by ROP, code 48022 , which I find very with various tones suitable to accentuate Once the model was dry, I sanded the
good because they are thin and totally aircraft panels and rivets -among which I entire surface with the same 2600 fine
opaque. Although they have a small flaw; chose dark gray AK 2075. paper to harmonise the surface, eliminate
fragility. I would recommend using a lot of On some top surfaces of the Zero I could imperfections and signs of decal edges. I
water to position them. Once attached, I not use any kind of panel liner because then washed it with water and, once dried,
softened and fixed them with Microscale’s they where not dark enough to be seen on I airbrushed the AK Ultra Matt Varnish
system, MicroSet, MicroSol and gave green finish, I decided to use black Vallejo product diluted with it’s specific thinner.
plenty of drying time. 'Model Color' to shade each panel and the
Shading some areas of rivets

and panel lines required some
fine work with Vallejo acrylic
black. Excess was removed
with ultra-fine abrasive paper.
AKI ‘Panel liner’ washes

work well on the pale
colours of the undersides.
25
THE LAST STEP

Finally, all the parts previously prepared, such as landing
gears, cowling, propeller, flaps, drop-tank and all the small
components (machine guns and pitot tube) – are assembled
together for the final fitting. Canopy painting was made easy
by using Eduard’s excellent masks.
FINAL CONCLUSION
The realization of this model was not straightforward. It proved
harder than I thought it would be. Despite the fact that our
terrific fighter of the Rising Sun certainly needed a few
adjustments before being ready to paint but Tamiya still
remain (along with Hasegawa) as one of the premier kit
manufacturers of their homeland’s aircraft.
26
I painted the landing

gears bay, flaps and their
housing on wings with
green/blue anti corrosive,
Gunze H-63.
All armament and the pitot tube (set from Master Model
MA-48-020), were first painted with a
coat of 'Tamiya Liquid Primer' then brushed with Humbrol
Metal cote (HU 27003), which I always use to paint
weapons. Fantastic colour! I let it dry for about 20/30
minutes then polish it with a cotton swab or bud to the
lustre you’re happy with.
27
extensive use in the Vietnam War where The kit Is the ancient 1:72 one from ESCI
T
he Story of the Phantom is well
known and documented already. It the US Navy and the US Air Force mostly and is not available anymore. The market
was, and still is, a true landmark in used it as an air superiority fighter, capable has since been flooded with great
aviation history. In its twenty years of of speed in excess of mach 2 and for the Phantom kits of all scales and
production, well over 5000 units have been time considered very manoeuvrable, the manufacturers, but I had a special
produced serving in eleven international air US Marines used the F4 mostly in the connection to this specific kit! It has been
arms. Some Phantoms are still in active ground support role. The Phantom could in my stash for at least twenty years, when
service although their days are surely carry a weapons load of 18 000 pounds, I built a similar one all those years ago I
numbered. No other jet has the distinct that meant everything from air to air thought at the time that it was the best kit
shape of the Phantom, you can’t really call rockets to iron bombs. It was a true multi ever to depict the F4 and I bought another
it a graceful aircraft, but it represents sheer role fighter as well as the last plane in US one for a future build...
power and strength. inventory to reach the “ace” status (five
Originally designated for the Navy, it saw aerial victories)
28
Today I could easily have picked one of the discovered that my quality standards from twenty years ago and I reckon that it is
great new kits and spared myself a lot of twenty years ago wouldn’t meet my new long out of production as well. I have
trouble, but I have a really hard time of requirements and I had to face the fact always had a clear conception of what my
getting rid of old kits just because they are that the kit was far from being as good as I next Esci Phantom should look like. Let’s
outdated; I decided to build it anyway, but remembered and had a lot of flaws. I had get started…
up to current standards, which meant an my work cut out! I planned on using the
investment in aftermarket products. fabulous Aires Cockpit, the CMK resin
wheel set, Eduard’s AIM-7M Sparrow
I found the old model in the attic and had missiles, the Aires nozzle set and the old
to remove a lot of dust from it, but found it Microscale Decal sheet for a US Marine
was still in a decent state and I could use it Corps bird from the Vietnam War. I had
as a blueprint for the new build. Quickly, I bought this sheet together with the kit
29
Aires cockpit, designed to

fit the Revell Phantom!
Thinning-out the air intakes,

worthwhile labour.
Some serious bracing was required

to rectify some warpage.
With the fuselage pulled into

shape the wings could be fitted.
I disregarded the cockpit from the kit and recommended kit is: REVELL! Next, there were the air intakes, which
started with the fuselage. The bottom part But what the heck, It was one great looking were not deep enough for my taste, and
with the nose wheel-well was thinned out cockpit and I had a phantom kit to use it there is also a guide pin location on the
and had to be glued in place after the on! bottom of the air intake on both sides,
cockpit is installed. My kit had a funny creating an unnatural bump, which can
warp and due to this was narrowed at the clearly be seen when looking at the model.
waist, so the fit to the wings was not great, I opened the air duct for depth and got rid
to say the least. Some structural changes of the guide pins and bumps. Afterwards, I
had to be executed. I used two plastic filled the hole with resin. After the sanding,
pins, cut to length, to expand the waist and I had smooth air intakes on my model with
to improve the fit with the wings. The Aires a much greater depth in the air ducts. The
cockpit is not a good fit at all and I had a nose, which did not fit either, had some
lot of trouble getting everything into place resin added to align the joints and to get a
and aligning the sides afterwards. Maybe I smooth surface.
should mention that it states on the
manual for the cockpit that the
30
Scribing and cutting

some additional
definition to the
control sufaces.
A final polish with
micro-cloth
before paint.
Next in line were the wings. The wheel my research images. I decided to use lead could be extended. I made this from metal
wells here are way too shallow and I foil to cover all these areas and then add tubing from Albion Alloys, as well as the
thinned them to the max by removing lots the effects with buffable metal powder pressure pipes in the tail plane. The anti-
of plastic. In total, it’s only thinner by 1 - from Uschi van der Rosten. The exhausts collision light is located in between these
1.5mm but it’s noticeable in 1:72. The from Aires were great and I painted them two. I cut the part out and replaced it with
inside of the wheel well had to be restored with polished steel. They can be polished red-coloured Lego glass, which I also used
after that. to the exact degree needed. The landing for the position lights on each wing.
The wing joints to the frame needed some gear was reworked by adding brake lines Furthermore, I cut off the radar warning
attention as well, but this is not an unusual and new oleo struts. I did not like the CMK receiver on top of the tail plane and
process with any kit. The tail section after wheels. They were too thin and too square replaced it with one I made from a metal
the exhaust pipes is metal on the real F-4. shaped. I went for the kit wheels instead. I rod. The small air intakes on each side of
No paint would withstand the burner of the just had to fill a few sink marks and then the nose are supplied with the kit. I just
two mighty jet engines anyway. It’s a hard- they came much closer to the dimensions hollowed them with an ultra-fine round
to-define burnt metal appearance with a of the real ones. The early models of the F- burr.
lot of variation in tone, as I could see on 4 had an internal access ladder, which
My F-4 was going to be rigged for a close

air support mission, so I left out the drop
tanks and added unguided missiles and
bombs. The weapons came from the
Hasegawa ‘Aircraft and weapons set I’. I
used these as the basis, cutting off the tail
fins and fuses and replacing them with
scratch built parts. I placed six Mk 81
bombs on the centre pylon under the belly
and three Mk 82s under each wing, on a
bomb rack.
On the inner pylon I placed two LAU 3

rocket launchers on each side. The
multiple ejector racks came from the
spares box. Most Marines Phantoms
did not carry rockets as their task did
not include aerial combat, although
they easily had the capability for that,
they usually carried one or two
Missiles for self-defence. I added one
AIM-7 Sparrow to mine. The missile
came from the Eduard range and is a
real beauty.
31
The US Marine Corps used light grey as the base

colour on the upper surfaces and white on the
bellies of their aircraft, with squadron markings
added in bright colours. That is a real joy for the
modeler with striking colours and fabulous
markings of all kinds. The choice can be hard! I
chose an aircraft from VMFA 323 Death Rattlers,
stationed in Chu Lai in February of 1968. For my
base colours I chose Humbrol 28 Light grey and
H 130 Satin White.
Self adhesive Bare Metal

Foil replicates the un-
painted surfaces.
On these I used Pastel chalks to represent the

fading and the darker areas. This is always a
very time-consuming work process, but
essential to get the right scale effect.
The decals went on smoothly but they are very
thin and quite tricky to work with. After
decorating the plane, it was time for some final
weathering and the first coat of varnish. After a
long drying period, I added a wash with raw
umber. I covered the leading edges of the wings
and tail with bare metal foil.
Utra-fine 1200 micro-cloth

gives a smooth final finish.
with such small contact

area the canopies were
chocked and allowed to
completely set.
32
The effect of the oil paint washes and subtle

tones achieved with the ground pastel chalk
can easily be identified here.
The Ushi metalic powders offer excellent

effects on the bare metal surfaces which are
discoloured by the exhaust heat.
Only a couple of centimetres separate these two ESCI

Phantoms, but twenty years have passed between them!
(and of course a liberal coating of dust from the attic) 33
Time literally does fly for aircraft modellers.
34
This was a real fun build, sneaking down memory lane and having
to discover that memory doesn’t always serve you well! It’s just
like an old movie you loved, and now many years later you sit and
watch it together with your kids only to be met with the question,
“When exactly does the thrilling part start Dad?”
Well, it ended up looking like an F-4 and I am pleased with the

result. It is a special experience to see your work with 20 years in
between, side by side. You realise (hopefully!) what a long way you
have come since, but the pure joy and pleasure of modelling is,
and has always been, the same.
35
Kevin Futter tackles the Kitty

Hawk mid-engined tricycle
36
1 32
The Aircraft The Kit The Build

The Bell P-39 Airacobra is famous for its Kitty Hawk’s 1/32 scale P-39 was released One of the decisions you need to make at
unusual engine configuration, having its in mid-2015, and represents the later N the outset when tackling this kit, is how
Allison V-1710 buried mid-fuselage, and and Q versions. I chose to build P-39Q much internal detail you plan to have
powering the propeller through a long shaft “Snooks 2nd” using the kit-supplied decals, exposed on the finished model. If you
that ran between the pilot’s legs! It was and had originally planned to build the decide to build it mostly closed-up, then
also one of the few fighters to enter USAAF model completely out-of-the-box. As the much of the internal detail can be left out,
service during the war (along with the P-38) build progressed, however, it became clear which greatly simplifies construction.
with a tricycle undercarriage. that this would not be possible if I wanted
an accurate result, so some alterations and I was caught in a bit of a quandary, as I
Operationally, however, the P-39 was improvements were made along the way. didn’t want all that internal detail to go to
something of a disappointment, being waste, but I also didn’t want those
hampered by a lack of high-altitude The kit itself is highly detailed, with a great attractive personal markings wasted on
performance. The Russians famously many parts dedicated to internal details, panels that wouldn’t be fitted to the model.
managed to make effective use of their and these can be made externally visible It turns out that the kit’s markings guide for
Airacobras in low-level combat and ground via separate panels that can either be “Snooks 2nd” is incorrect in showing the
attack roles, and were apparently quite posed open, or left off the model entirely. personal markings on both sides of the
fond of the aircraft. This complicates construction rather aircraft, when in fact they only existed on
dramatically, and was the source of much the starboard side. I decided then to open
frustration during the build, as we will see! up all the panels on the port side to expose
the internal detail, while keeping the
starboard side buttoned-up to show off the
markings. This, of course, didn’t go exactly
to plan.
37
Alarmingly large ejector pin “ejectites” on The exhaust stacks comprise 24

Engine Troubles
the insides of the main engine parts.
Following the instructions, I began by separate pieces and they’re a bit of a
assembling the engine, which is made nightmare to assemble and clean up.
up of more than 25 parts. This kit has Eduard has since released a set of
an abundance of ejector pin marks, resin replacements, so I’d recommend
including some alarmingly large raised you purchase those instead!
ones that I’ve dubbed “ejectites”, which Nevertheless, I’m happy enough with
are found on the insides of the main the way the kit parts turned out.
engine parts. These were trimmed The engine was to bite me one more
away so they would not interfere with time before we were done. As
fitting the parts together. assembled, the pipe that runs down
The kit’s ignition wires are poorly- the rear left of the engine interferes
moulded, overscale, and quite with its ability to seat into the internal
unrealistic. Fixing this became my first mounting frame. I used a razor saw to
deviation from a strict out-of-the-box cut away a segment of the pipe at the
approach, using some Evergreen rod, bottom of the engine, so that the
The main engine mounting frame could push it out of the
0.3mm lead wire, and a small section
components assembled
of kitchen foil to build a replacement for way when the engine was fitted into
and painted.
the exposed port side. place.
The pipe running down the back left of

the engine interferes with its fit into Three mounting lugs per rudder pedal,
the internal mounting frame. but only two mounting holes! The completed
instrument panel,
with distorted right
Internal Strife removing the outer upright piece, and
rudder pedal.
The fuselage internals are all built around replacing it with a straight piece of
a single-piece mounting frame that styrene strip. I spruced up the dials by
The kit-supplied
forms the backbone of the fuselage representing the glass with Gaianotes photo-etched
structure, with the cockpit, engine, nose transparent UV gel. seat belts were
I strayed again from the strict out-of-the- replaced with
wheel bay, and forward nose details all
set 132571
attaching to it. I settled on Bronze Green box path by adding some wiring detail to
from HGW.
as the appropriate base colour for the the rear of the instrument panel, as I was
internals, choosing Vallejo’s Model Color certain it would be visible on the finished
70897 for the job. model. And it is, but only just!
The instrument panel assembly came I replaced the kit-supplied photo-etched
next, and once again, I struck some seat belts with set 132571 from HGW.
problems. Firstly, the separate rudder These provide a far superior result,
pedals have three mounting lugs though they are quite fiddly to put
moulded on to them, whereas there are together. The instructions recommend
only two holes provided on the back of crumpling the belts themselves before
the instrument panel for them to attach threading them into their respective
to. I removed the middle lug on each buckles, but I’ve never had the courage
rudder pedal, which seemed easier than to do that. Maybe next time!
trying to make additional holes! The final element to complete before the
Kitty Hawk provides a set of nicely main internal assembly was finished was
printed instrument decals for the panel, the radio equipment tray that fits behind
so I decided to try them out. the fuselage. Kitty Hawk’s rendition
Unfortunately, in using a hair dryer to doesn’t appear to be all that accurate or
coax the one-piece decal into the well-detailed, but I elected only to add
moulded dial detail, I managed to distort some wiring with 0.3mm lead wire and
38 one of the rudder pedals. I fixed it by leave it at that.
With all the main internal elements now surprise, the fuselage wrapped around
in place, it was time to turn my attention the entire internal assembly with little
to the nose wheel bay, which attaches to fuss, though I had to adjust for the slight
the front of the main internal assembly warp at the rear of the mounting frame.
prior to closing the fuselage around it. Ah, but I’d forgotten about nose weights!
It was at this point I discovered that this This was a tail-sitter, after all. I mashed
kit requires you to fit the nose wheel some fishing sinkers flat with a pair of
assembly at this stage of the build. In pliers, and then fixed them into place in
fairness, it probably could be fitted later, the vacant area under the nose structure
but I elected to follow the instructions using JB Weld. This proved adequate,
against my better judgment. Thankfully, but only just, as the finished model can
Nose weights were despite bumping it loose on several be encouraged onto its tail with little
added using various
occasions, it never actually broke, and effort. If you’re not going to expose
fishing sinkers, fixed into
place using JB Weld. survived to be fit for purpose at the end. any of the internal detail, swap it
To my great delight and for additional weights!
The initial test-fit into the fuselage was promising, but did reveal that
the rear of the internal mounting frame was badly twisted.
Nose Dive and longitudinal directions, which I didn’t mix of CA and talcum powder. I shimmed
Now it was time to turn my attention to the notice until it was too late. This created a the step at the front of the nose with
nose, which is comprised of six separate massive gap down the centre of the nose, styrene sheet to level it out, so that the
panels, and the alignment of each must be and a misalignment of the two upper spinner back plate would sit level against
correct in relation to the others to produce panels. it. After some adjustments to the shape of
the desired result. I won’t say this is It’s possible that the nose weights I added the nose immediately behind the spinner,
impossible, but I haven’t seen a build of fouled the side panels and caused them to the result is acceptable. I dealt with the
this kit yet where this part went to plan, bulge. Whatever the cause, I started the fix misaligned surface detail on the upper
including mine. While the joins were drying by closing up the forward section as much panels by eliminating it completely! But
under clamps and rubber bands, the two as possible. The main gap was then filled please don’t tell anyone.
side pieces on mine shifted in both lateral with a combination of styrene strip and a
39
Fuselage Fun kit part in half, adding a faux hinge from I had to revise my plans to open up any
With the nose sorted, I noticed a problem styrene rod. Simple, but effective, and it wing panels, as it turns out that the P-39Q
with Kitty Hawk’s depiction of the hatch on really looks the part painted and did not generally feature any internal wing
the fuselage spine. Photos of the real thing weathered. guns, relying instead on the under-wing
showed that the cover hinged to port along From here on, construction continued with gun pods. The Kitty Hawk instructions and
the fuselage centreline, whereas the kit very few hitches. I had a bit of a gap at painting guide both incorrectly show all
has it as a single removable panel that each wing root, but they were easily dealt guns in place on all aircraft, but the internal
straddles the top of the fuselage. I decided with using styrene strip and Perfect Plastic detailing is redundant for “Snooks 2nd”, so
to replicate the real thing, and sawed the Putty. Unfortunately the wings don’t join the I fixed the wing panels in the closed
fuselage along a position
natural panel line, but The final modification I made was to
rather, the join bisects replace the unconvincing blast tubes for
the wing root fairing, so the underwing pods with some brass
this join needs to tubing.
disappear completely.
The Paint Job

Recently I’ve been experimenting with what has become
I modified the centreline hatch cover to match the real thing by sawing it in known as the “black basing” approach to painting a model,
half and adding a hinge from styrene rod.
and decided to use it here, too. The basic idea is to prime or
undercoat the model in black, and then tightly mottle the
camouflage colours over it. When done carefully, this results in
a subtle variegated finish that already looks mildly weathered.
It’s a lot of work, but to my eye, produces a much more
organic result than simple preshading.
The next task was to apply the white to the tail and wing
leading edges. I try to avoid pure blacks and pure whites on
Primed with Mr. Finishing scale models, as they look too stark.
Surfacer 1500 Black, as
part of the “black basing”
approach.
Gunze Off White applied to the

tail and wing leading edges,
with Olive Drab patches on the
tail for the serial number
decals. Note that the wing
walkways are also masked off
at this stage.
For this job I chose Gunze’s H-21 Off White, as it provides a

much better scale appearance than pure white. Prior to
painting the tail, however, I laid down and then masked off a
patch of Olive Drab on each side, sized to match the tail
number decals.
Kitty Hawk calls out RLM 76 Light Blue for the undersides,
but this of course is incorrect, and it should be Neutral Gray,
Underside mottling completed
for which I used Gunze H-53. The upper surfaces require
using Gunze H-53 Neutral Gray.
Olive Drab, and for this I used Model Master’s FS 34087
enamel, mostly because I already had it in my paint stash.
After a couple of light coats of Tamiya X-22 Clear Gloss,

thinned 50:50 with Mr. Color Thinner, it was time for some
decals. For this build, I experimented with soaking the decals
in a 50:50 mix of water and Future, as I’ve always had trouble
with silvering on stencils. This technique really did help,
40 though one stencil still suffered some silvering.
The effect of the black base coat can be seen here, the mottled green A sharp silver pencil offers great control for tiny scratches. Again,
giving a more realistic finish. A dark wash enhances the surface detail. washes enhance the detail and give a weathered look.
Kitty Hawk decals have a tendency to stick where they land, and
unfortunately I couldn’t coax a couple of them into perfect
alignment, which I’m still a bit grumpy about. That’s about their
only vice, though, as they’re thin, well-printed, and have good
colour density and registration.
I sealed the decals with another light coat of X-22, and then
applied some panel line washes using AK Interactive’s Paneliner
series – AK2072 for the underside, and AK2071 for the Olive Drab.
Once I was happy with the look, I sealed everything with clear flat.
Final weathering was applied with a Prismacolor Silver Pencil,

focusing on the boundaries of removable panels and crew access
areas. I probably went a little overboard, but I’m really happy with
the effect provided by the combination of black basing and silver
pencil paint wear. It really captures the organic look I was striving
for. I ended up having to pose both cockpit doors open, as I
couldn’t get either to fit properly in the closed position, further
diluting my original concept for the build.
P-39 doors actually appear void of any visible rivets so the kit
detail was removed carefully.
Wing roots needed some attention;

a strip of styrene and the same
methods used to fill the gap on the
nose were employed.
The finished re-shaped nose, not perfect but acceptable.

Black Mr Surfacer showed any imperfections. The spinner
required some shimming to sit correctly.
41
42
Nevertheless, despite the difficulties with this build, I like

the way it turned out. I recommend ditching all the
internal detail, though, and just building it closed up.
While taking the final photos of the model, the port
undercarriage assembly came loose, and can be seen
slightly canted in some of them. So, the kit had the last
laugh, after all!
43
new releases
Hobby Boss 1:48 Russian Su-34 Fullback Fighter Bomber

The huge box gives a hint of the impressive size of this kit in this with good internal and external detail which teams well with the
scale and lifting the lid the upper and lower fuselage shells are exquisitely moulded intake parts. The undercarriage struts have
presented on a special protective tray to prevent any accidental been designed with die-cast metal reinforcement shafts to be
damage. The wingtips of these main mouldings also have clever sandwiched into the plastic outer parts to avoid any load-bearing
moulded bumper rails to further reduce the risk of accidental concerns. Two part wheel hubs are provided with flexible but
damage. Surface detail moulding on the main fuselage parts is remarkably firm tires. The kit provides a very small photoetched
superb with finely rendered panel lines and rivet details. There is a fret and two large decal sheets, the larger of which mostly
separate box which contains the canopy parts, soft plastic tires, provides the vast assortment of stencils for the weapons. There is
metal undercarriage parts and the multiple weapons sprues. a choice of two paint schemes, the three colour camouflage
There are an awful lot of weapons parts in the kit with a total of 24 featured on the box art and a very striking dark grey over bright
sprues for the weapons alone! This allows a dizzying choice of blue undersides. There have been mutterings about the shape of
weapons configurations for maximum modeller choice. The the aircraft nose not having the correct profile and it is hard to be
cockpit with its side by side seat configuration offers a good level sure at this stage but I cannot image it would be a problem to
44 of detail but moulded seat harnesses may not be to everyone’s correct as the nose cone is devoid of an surface detail. This
liking and there is a well printed decal to assist in replicating the potential issue aside it is an impressive kit by any standards let
instrument panel. The exhaust nozzles have been well moulded alone the sheer size!
Kitty Hawk 1:48 Sukhoi Su-17 M3/M4 Fitter-K

This is a big old box for a 1:48 kit and once it is opened the the nose to mid section has a lip for this the mid to rear is just a
contents very much fill it with what look like some beautifully butt join, no doubt relying on the alignment of the engine to assist
moulded parts along with two decal sheets, clear moulded sprue in lining up the fuselage. There appears to be no splitter below the
and a photoetched fret. The kit offers a large choice of weapons nose intake cone even though it is depicted on the box art. The
with four of the large sprues devoted to these with twenty two fuselage spine is also moulded in a number of parts with an
different weapons or drop tanks provided. As you can see the optional section for the M3 and M4 variants. All the control
quality of the mouldings and surface detail is everything you would surfaces are moulded separately along with separate slats on the
hope for from a modern kit. The cockpit matches this with very leading edge. There is a small forrest of underwing pylons to carry
little requirement for any aftermarket parts and the well detail seat all the different weapons both of which match the high standards
offers a choice of seat cushion and photoetched seat belts. of the rest of the kit. The provides a full colour guide for each of
Consoles are well defined as is the instrument panel and the seven attractive paint schemes and the decal sheet looks
complete decal panels are offered for both. I would have liked the adequate rather than exceptional in terms of crispness. Clearly
option of individual instrument dials here but at least there is although the parts look fantastic, with a complex breakdown as
something to work from. The kit also includes a well-detailed we have here, how well everything fits together will be key with to
engine for the rear of the fuselage, the fuselage itself is unusually the success, something that we hope to investigate further. First
split into three sections. Quite why this is done is not entirely clear impressions are certainly good! Our thanks to Kitty Hawk for the
but will allow the tail to be detached to expose the engine if sample www.kittyhawkmodel.com 45
desired. Obviously the quality of the joins will be crucial and whilst
Revell 1:48 FW 190D-9 x

With so much choice on the market for the ‘Dora’ in 1:48 it seems bay gives the option of display with open cover and the cockpit
an unusual release from Revell, but in fact this is the well has some nice features. Being an Eduard kit originally there’s
respected Eduard kit re-boxed by Revell with their nicely done plenty of upgrades available including their excellent pre-coloured
new instructions and new decals. Proving an easier construction photoetch. Reveal always treat us with excellent marking options,
than Eduard’s earlier ‘190 kits this one features a pretty standard these two options include generic stencils and markings and are
design and parts break-down with some very impressive moulding both from 1945 as you’d expect; Werknr. 500666, II./JG 301,
and superb surface details. A multi-part assembly of the weapons Erfurt-Nord, May and black eleven from I./JG 2, Aachen, January.
Revell 1:72 Dornier Do17 Z-10 “Kauz”

The slender lines of the Do17 are probably at their prettiest with engines are also highly detailed affairs as are the landing gears
the Z-10 version sporting the solid nose mounting the cannons which should all look very nice straight from the box. Transparent
and IR searchlight. This is a re-box of the recent ICM kit and parts are nicely done and you’ll have some worthwhile spares for
appears completely unchanged with the exception of the decals. the glass-nosed Do17s including a full canopy. Revell usually
After a long wait for a seventy-second modern tooling of the D17 come up trumps with their decals, we’ve two options offered with
Z both Airfix and ICM released various versions which have been an all black version of I./NJG2 (think back to our feature in issue
much discussed on various forums, without drawing in-depth 68) and a more generic two tone splinter patterned aircraft from
direct comparisons we’d say the finesse of surface detail gives 1940. Not a beginners kit but very nicely detailed with quality
46 the ICM (Revell!) kit the edge. For a small-scale kit the interior is decals. For details visit www.revell.de/en, @RevellGermany or
very comprehensive with a busy cockpit and multi-part bomb bay facebook.com/Revell
with detailed bulkheads and the extra fuel cells. The radial
Revell 1:72 Eurofighter Typhoon single seater
A little confused here at first with this new release flagged as a except for the moulded seatbelt and a little diversion from the
‘new tool’ kit as the Revell Typhoons aren’t actually that old, beginners-style design with a series of holes required drilling in
perhaps the tooling had deteriorated as this kit does in fact the lower wing / fuselage part to mount the pylons. Landing gear
appear new, and is marked as such along with the 03952 product is nicely detailed with some very fine parts and exhaust petals
code. So moulding of the pale grey sprues is clean and sharp as have the option of open or closed parts. Markings are restricted
we’d expect, the canopy parts are particularly clear (one of the to one version with a beautifully printed decal sheet representing
first things to fade with deteriorated tooling) and a lower parts the ‘Richthofen’ commemorative scheme. Revell model kits are
count which Revell claim makes for a simple build, which available from all good toy and model retailers. For details visit
certainly does look the case. Cockpit looks very decent, maybe www.revell.de/en, @RevellGermany or facebook.com/Revell
Mission Models paint

More new paint? Well, if it’s something that’s better (or easier to use
for that matter) we’re always keen to give it a try. from the U.S.,Mission
Models are a blast from the past and we certainly remember the high
quality of their modelling tools (many of which we’re still using) and it
appears the same standards of quality research and manufacture
have been applied to a new range of acrylic paints. Having used the
primer and Olive Drab recently I can vouch for the claims made about
this paint being a pleasure to work with; it really does spray beautifully.
The colours are triple-pigmented for maximum opacity (something we
noticed) and are lightfast, no additional additives are used to produce
‘airbrush ready’ paint which avoids any premature breakdown or
shortened shelf life MM claim. The paint can be sprayed through even
the smallest airbrush tip but it’s recommended to thin slightly with
their own thinners which we’ve done, also including a few drops of
their polyurethane mix additive which improves flow and leaves a silky
smooth finish. Water can be used for clean-up and we’ve found the
consistency well suited to brush painting. A range of primer colours
and clear coats are part of the range and colours cover generic tones
and specific military subjects with FS and RAL codes also. Colours
come in chunky 30ml bottles with a snap-cap and off-set dropper
hole. It’s nice to see these guys back on the scene, find out more at
47
www.missionmodelsus.com and on their Facebook page.
new releases
Eduard 1:48 F6F-5N Nightfighter

Another run out for Eduard’s superb Hellcat with one of their bonus in the form of some resin detail is included for the exhaust
popular ‘Weekend Edition’ kits to model the night fighter with two stacks, cannons and radome. Markings are for a VF(N)-90 aircraft
marking options on overall dark navy blue. The moulding still looks on board USS Enterprise, 1945 and also from ’45 an aircraft
as fresh as when this kit was first released with beautiful surface based at Okinawa of VMF(N)-533. Decals are high quality and
detail and the general curves and look of the Hellcat well include a full quota of stencils with excellent full-colour
captured, even down to the chin air intake which has always been instructions. Great kit and even better value, the default 1:48
an issue with older kits from Monogram and Hasegawa. A nice Hellcat.
AK Interactive Diorama Series

We’ve had some sample of a brand new
range of diorama materials from the guys at
AK. With everything from desert sand to
snow the packs are pretty sizeable 100ml
and 250 ml, with some excellent natural
textures and man-made effects such as
concrete and asphalt suitable for hard
stands and runways.
Some of the products are designed to work
in combination should you require it such as
dry and wet mud and snow terrain and
snow sprinkles. Various water effects also
feature in the range with liquid (pouring)
acrylic and gels. This range will certainly
take the guess work and experiments out of
diorama and groundwork production and
AK produce some excellent tutorials which
can be found on their website
www.ak-interactive.com
48
48063
48062
48055 48050 72095
72096
72109
72097 72098
Arma Hobby
More Polish precision from Arma starting with three new multi- Hornet F/A-18 kits are sets 72097 providing GE F 404 engine
media kits of the Polish PZL series. All three kits are from Arma’s nozzles and 72098 is a set of highly detailed wheels. Finally in
‘Pro Set’ range which produce highly detailed aircraft for the more 1:72 is a set of under-wing pylons for any Hornet kit with some
experienced builder with some very nicely designed and cast excellent delicate surface detail. For your 1:48 F/A-18 are the
resin; just admire the single piece rear fuselage and delicate same offerings as the 1:72 sets, all designed for the Kinetic kit;
ribbing on the wings, real state-of-the-art stuff. Also included are 48061is a set of nozzles, 48062 a wheel set and 48063 pylons (for
photoetched parts, decals, clear acetates for the instrument dials any Hornet A/B/C/D kit). For the 1:48 F-16C/D from Tamiya is a
and clear vacuum formed parts. 73003 is the PZL P.6, 73004 is superb Conformal fuel tank and for 1:48 MiG-29As 48050 is a set
the PZL P.7/I-1 and 73005 the PZL P.11/I. Still with 1:72 are more in to create an accurate Polish version. Finally is 48055 for the
the ‘Attack Squadron’ range of resin and photoetched detailing Mirage Hobby PZL. P.11C providing detail upgrades for the
and conversion sets. 72095 is a lovely little Wright R-1820-60 for engine, exhausts and fuel tank. Top quality productions,
Hasgawa’s Dauntless and similar times by four is set 72096 for www.armahobby.com has more details and shopping.
49
the B-17 E/F/G from Hasegawa and Academy. For Academy’s
new releases
Aces High Hind Special

Published by AK Interactive
Softback format, 140 pages
ISBN 0436564921673
www.ak-interactive.com
A Special from ‘Aces High’ featuring the Soviet Mi-24 Hind series of step by step study of building Trumpeter’s mighty 1:35 Hind kit
helicopters. The first eighty-odd pages are concerned with a brief complete with extensive diorama encompassing modelling
overview of the beast’s development and operational history and a methods from the aircraft, vehicle, figures and groundwork in a
superb collection of quality images beautifully presented in a walk- detailed visual guide. If that wasn’t impressive enough how about
around fashion of various versions of aircraft. Concentrating on the Csorike #1 Mi-24D with it’s fully illustrated ‘Eagle’ livery?
some key areas where modellers will want to add detail (interiors, Certainly one of the most impressive free-hand painted schemes
cockpits, engines etc.) this really is an excellent and you’re likely to see. A real quality production offering excellent
comprehensive visual reference. On the modelling side aircraft value.
modelling maestro and AIR contributor, Daniel Zamarbide takes a
Robert Mrozowski Model & Design

1:32 Norden Bomb Sight
Knowing we’re fans of the HK Models 1:32 B-17G we’ve been sent
one of these beautifully detailed Norden bombsights designed to save
you the labour and research of upgrading the kit parts. Six parts cast
in grey resin and a clear lens are included with nicely done pictoral
50 instructions. Contact Robert direct at [email protected]
Revell 1:72 MiG-29S Fulcrum

With Zvezda already producing a very well respected and this scale. Cockpit (with optional pilot) is good, as are the landing
reasonably priced MiG-29 in seventy-second why would Revell go gear and wheel wells and great effort has gone into producing full
to the trouble of tooling their own? Well they haven't, this is indeed engine trunking with compressor face and internals. A huge
a re-box of the Zvezda kit with Revell rating it 4 out of 5 on their selection of nicely detailed stores are included but the kit only
skill level it's not one for the beginner. The bonus though is this is a provides one marking option of the 'Russian Falcons' team so
very nicely detailed kit which represents the aircraft very well weapons and extra tanks will be headed for your spares box. The
showing Zvezda can mix it with the best regarding kit design and scheme is very striking as shown on the box art and the decals top
finesse of moulding. Panel lines are beautifully fine and thankfully quality. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model
no attempt has been made to show any fastener or rivet detail in retailers. For further information visit www.revell.de/en
Arma Hobby 1:72 TS-11 'Iskra' BIS DF

Poland's Arma Hobby have released an 'Expert Set' version of their some may find the 'Airfix' style panel lines a touch heavy for 1:72
small-scale TS-11 which combines some of their goodies to and the canopy has a little distortion which will easily polish (not
upgrade the detail to the highest level. Extras included are a pre- Polish!) out. Decals are excellent, complete with stencils, to give
cut mask set for the canopy and a nice photoetch fret. Much of options of four bare-metal finished Polish aircraft. Check our other
the 'etch concentrates on the cockpit which will look excellent (if Arma reviews for further upgrades for this kit or go to
not a little fiddly!) with 'sandwich-style' facia including printed www.armahobby.pl 51
acetate instruments. Moulding of the two sprues is very good but
Playa Girón- the Cuban Exiles Invasion After over fifty years this new book looks to give an objective view of the
at the Bay of Pigs 1961 CIA backed attempt to overthrow Fidel Castro with much of the focus
being on the air warfare and aircraft involved. The text is easily understood
Santiago Rivas in chronological order broken into suitable chapters and very much
historical, political and tactical. For modelling reference there’s a selection
Published by Helion of colour profiles of aircraft and armour which has to be said are rather
Soft back format, 88 pages bland but an interesting assortment if you fancy something different for
ISBN 9781911096023 Meng’s new Mustang and GW’s new T-33. As you’d expect due to the
www.casematepublishers.co.uk secrecy typical of the cold war period, the images are varied in quality and
mostly black and white although several colour museum images are
included and maps to accompany the text.
72138
72135 72136 72137
48320 48322
48321
32113
48323
48324
Scale Aircraft Conversions

SAC’s catalogue of white metal landing gear continues to the new Zoukei-Mura F-4, 48323 is for the Kitty Hawk Super
expand, starting in 1:72 is 72135 for Hasegawa’s Eurofighter, Etendard we looked at a couple of issues back and 48324 is a set
72136 for the Airfix T.3, 72137 for the Special Hobby Fairey for the Ju88 from ICM / Special Hobby. One release in 1:32
Barracuda and some sturdy pins for the B-17 from Airfix with includes also engine supports for the Roden L-19/0-1 Bird Dog,
52 72138. In 1:48 is 48320 for the Airfix P-40B, 148321 for 32113. Check out www.scaleaircraftconversions.com.
Hasegawa’s AH-64D Apache, 48322 is hot from the moulds for
Hobbyboss 1:48 Su-27 Flanker B

A welcome release as a state-of-the-art modern tooling is the separately. Open or closed exhaust petals are an option and on
‘Flanker B’ now available from Hobbyboss. The box is a big one the intake side a fan part is provided but will be obscured by the
with a very impressive single part upper fuselage and wings nicely detailed FOD screen. Cockpit and landing gear look as if
presented in it’s own packaging. The lower section is moulded in they’ll keep most modellers happy as multi-part assemblies,
the same way giving an excellent first impression of the kit and decals for the instrument panels won’t be welcome by all but are
what a presence the completed model will have. Moving inside well produced. Weapons are multi-part constructions with
the packaging are fifteen more grey sprues which vary in size, the excellent detail including decals for all markings (including the
usual clear parts, a tiny photoetched fret and debatable soft vinyl black bands), four of each R-73Es, R-27ER and R-73. An
tyres. The general quality throughout is excellent with very fine extensive decal sheet covers two markings of Russian schemes,
surface detail which has lovely scale finesse. The kit design will one in three-tone blue / grey and one in two-tone with a striking
give a feeling of quick progress with separate slats, flaps and Russian flag on the stabalisers. This looks like it will make a
elevators pretty much completing the airframe with the forward superb out-of-the-box project. Our thanks to Hobbyboss for the 53
sections of the engine housing and intakes also supplied sample kits.
Mac Patterson
practices some
masking masochism
and goes digital
T
he AH-1 could be considered to be the Grandaddy of attack I managed to acquire the 1/35 Italeri Super Cobra kit, finding a
helicopters, pioneering the tandem pilot/co-pilot slightly battered boxing at a local market- I negotiating a very
configuration seen later in the shape of the Apache and reasonable price as the kit had been part started by the previous
Hind. Debuting as a single engine variant during the Vietnam owner. The kit cockpit tub and instrument panels had been
conflict, the type has constantly evolved, today the Super Cobra painted, fortunately this was academic as I intended to replace
AH-1W forms the backbone of the US Marine attack helicopter this highly visible area with a quality resin item. I think I'm correct
fleet, gradually being replaced by the further enhanced AH-1Z in saying that the Italeri boxing is linked to the original MRC
Viper. moulds, surface detail is recessed with embossed rivets, generally
Inspiration...it strikes you at the strangest times don't you think? I detail isn't too bad even if some parts appear over simplified, but
was fortunate to be at the right place at the right time in this case- more of that later.
56
Engines on...
As usual, I began by gathering reference. I already had in mind a To create this enhance version of the ‘Whiskey’, the first task was
project involving a digital camouflage scheme, and I found some to source a set of turned exhausts. Fortunately, Werner’s Wings
great reference of Marine ‘Whiskeys’ wearing a complex 3-tone produce an excellent resin set specifically for this kit. Fitting the
grey/black digital effect and also incorporating the turned exhausts resin requires some major surgery involving the removal of a
now being retrofitted to the Marine fleet. Classified as a significant section of plastic right up to the engine bay area. Test
‘survivability upgrade’, the new exhaust system reduces the fitting of the part immediately highlighted the task at hand – to
Cobra’s heat signature, increases fuel efficiency and significantly integrate the new exhausts would require considerable filling,
alters the look of the airframe. sanding and rescribing. Also, the weight of the resin was pulling
the tail down, and to counter this, weight would need to be added
to the nose of the aircraft.
57
Snake ‘pit...
As mentioned, I wanted to replace the kit cockpit parts. Cobra
Company provides a resin set which includes cockpit
modifications specific to the AH-1W. The detail is very good and
the fit requires only a marginal amount of adjustment to settle the
new parts in snugly. I used a base coat of
Tamiya NATO Black to achieve the interior
cockpit colour. This in reality is a grey/charcoal.
Not being a pure black it means a variety of
deeper shadow washes help enhance the
detail within the mono-colour cockpit. A set
of modern instrument decals was used to
enhance the dials on the pilot/co-pilot
panels.
58
Fuselage with fangs...

Closing the fuselage up demonstrated that the joint would require Returning to exterior detailing, I added tie down eyelets to the
filling and sanding. After a light coat of primer to highlight any landing skids. Here I found the extra weight of the resin exhaust
further issues, I was happy with the way the resin exhausts were and cockpit was putting considerable strain on the fragile plastic
integrated with the main kit. Italeri do provide parts for a simplified parts. To give extra strength to the skids I drilled holes in the
engine, but this does lack a significant amount of detail, so I took fuselage and inserted thin metal rods. I then drilled locating holes
the time to add wiring looms, pipe work and hydraulic lines; the in the skids, which now slipped on to the rod ends and were
engine bay was also suitably enhanced. mated to the fuselage.
One of the most identifiable aspects of the ‘Whiskey’ Cobra is the

20mm M197 Gatling gun. The kit parts are under-detailed and
flimsy. These were replaced with the fantastic turned brass barrels
from RB Models. I also got my hands on the Verlinden detail set
which includes the gun mounting mechanism itself.
Having found some reference shots of Cobras without
the mechanism shroud, I elected to display the gun
this way as the extra detail enhanced the model.
The clear canopy parts had a few scratches and

marks but a dip in Future helped improve
clarity significantly. However, fitting the part
proved extremely tricky – having openings
on the left- and right-hand sides makes
alignment a real challenge. Once secured
and masked, the entire kit was given a
coat of grey primer.
59
Snake skin...
I now used reference images as a basis then cut down to smaller squares and coat of Tamiya XF-19 lightened with about
regarding how I was going to achieve the rectangles appropriate to the scale; 30% XF-2 White. Removing the masking
complex digital effect. Firstly, a medium following reference photographs of the real tape squares revealed a pleasing,
grey base coat was applied using slightly thing, these were applied to create the complex, digital effect. Using the same
darkened Tamiya XF-20. The process I digital effect pattern. With the entire process, a further mask was applied and a
came upon was almost ‘negative’ masking, airframe masked, I final application of Nato Black, for the
by starting with the darker base and then applied a darker digital pattern, completed the
applying the lighter coat. I trimmed out disruptive camouflage.The large main and
several thin strips of masking tail rotors were enhanced with Eduard
tape which were etched brass detail, primed, and given a
coat of matt black to replicate the
composite nature of the material. Bolt
heads were picked out in gold as seen on
the real helicopters.
This was then secured in place along with

the Verlinden ammo locker. The various
sensors, jammers and lights were
also added at this point. To further
detail the numerous radar
warning receivers on the
fuselage I used small glass
lenses to replicate the
sensors themselves.
60
Snake scene...
With the model almost complete now, I created a hard-
standing base for the ‘Whiskey’. To supplement the
diorama and amplify visual interest I also included some
ground service equipment, electing to use the nicely
detailed Verlinden airbase compressor set. Looking
round for a pair of appropriate Marine pilot figures,
I decided to use the CMK offering. I feel the
detail is a little soft in places but the poses are
naturalistic and the colours of the flight suits
contrast nicely with the disruptive grey
digital camouflage of the Cobra.
With the application of digital camouflage schemes becoming

more prevalent for many armed forces, it presents the modeller of
contemporary subjects with a wonderful opportunity to move away
from standard grey schemes. Digital camouflage may be
challenging and time consuming to replicate, but the effects can
be satisfyingly different and rewarding.
61
62
63

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AIR 71 cover.

qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2017 10:32 Page 1

12 Short Sterling Part 7

56 Digital Snake Skin

Meng AIR Modeller is published Bimonthly by

The Focke Wulf 190 D is one of my favourite aircraft of

The only long-nosed Fw 190 D-13 to have survived the

To replicate this aircraft I've chosen the Hobbyboss kit.

A few years ago I scratchbuilt an engine bay for the Tamiya

Some wiring detail was added

Brake lines are always a

The Hobbyboss kit builds

My reference showed unpainted wheel

Exhaust outlets were

RLM 75 is applied on the

Then, the RLM 82 light green is applied.

The finished camo pattern has a very random

Masks are done with

working back-in with previous

My references showed the aircraft had heavy weathering to the

Oil streaks are made on the After an all-over matt varnish

I also deployed the flap which opened to counter the

A bath was prepared that consisted of a part of

The gun barrels were suspended on a piece of

Seen in position, the DF loop was

The Lorenz Beam Approach antenna was made of a brass

I considered it is appropriate for the Stirling to be

I used a rich amount of Mr Hobby

As the photo reveals, the work

JNAF Ace Takeo Tanimizu’s A6M5a

A LITTLE ABOUT TAKEO THE TAMIYA KIT

Tamiya XF-71 looked a

In order to place the 20 mm cannons (Master

An annoying groove was evedent at the

CA gel allows more time to

To add a more dramatic look to the

Both wings required the Thinned Mr Surfacer will

I remove excess Mr Surfacer Tamiya surface primer is thinned

Gunze white H-11 was applied

Scrubbing the surface with

Copper wire is used

More chipping on the classic

The effect of a dark Gloss varnish base

Shading some areas of rivets

AKI ‘Panel liner’ washes

THE LAST STEP

I painted the landing

Aires cockpit, designed to

Thinning-out the air intakes,

Some serious bracing was required

With the fuselage pulled into

Scribing and cutting

My F-4 was going to be rigged for a close

On the inner pylon I placed two LAU 3

The US Marine Corps used light grey as the base

Self adhesive Bare Metal

On these I used Pastel chalks to represent the

Utra-fine 1200 micro-cloth

with such small contact