2023-11-25 01-24-28 Revista de Moda y Belleza Vogue December 2023

DEC
NICKI LAUREN
MINAJ’S SÁNCHEZ
ON HER
NEW WORLD HIGH-FLYING
“I LOOK IN ROMANCE
MY SON’S FACE,
AND MY WHOLE
SOUL LIGHTS UP”
WHEN ART
MET FASHION
THE SEASON
IN 10 WORKS
AN EDWARD
HOPPER FANTASY
A CABINET
OF CURIOSITIES
IN ROME
D I O R B O U T I Q U E S 8 0 0 .9 2 9. D I O R ( 3 4 67 ) D I O R . C O M
December 2023
CLEARED FOR TAKEOFF

LAUREN SÁNCHEZ IN A STAUD + WRANGLER JUMPSUIT.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANNIE LEIBOVITZ.
FAS H ION ED ITOR : TA BIT H A SIM M ON S. H AIR , CH R IS M C M IL LA N;
S ET D ES IGN: M ARY H OWAR D. DETA ILS, SE E IN T HIS ISSU E.
54 80 110 your “season” 126 releasing a

Editor’s Letter The Play’s the Fashionable Home Is Where
MA KEUP, BUST E R K NIG H T. P RODUC ED BY AL ST U DIO.
determines your long-awaited

Thing Figures most flattering the Art Is album, Nicki
60 For Sarah Paulson, Marley Marius shades. Lynn Online design Minaj is in a
Contributors Branden investigates the Yaeger spins the retailer Abask contemplative
Jacobs-Jenkins’s rich history of color wheel expands mood, thinking
70 Appropriate proved artists working about marriage,
Up Front an irresistible lure with clothes—in 124 128 motherhood,
It’s the end of an back to Broadway. their lives and, Put a Bow Picture Perfect alter egos,
era in Mayfair. By Alessandra more urgently, in on It Books by (and creativity, and
As our UK sibling Codinha their work Preppy, princess, about) creatives confidence.
relocates its or punk—the light a festive spark By Rob Haskell
headquarters, 84 118 humble hair
three former Sneak Peak True Tone ribbon is once 134
staffers recall Under-the-radar A new generation more flying Raising Her
life at Vogue wellness in is experimenting high. Alice Robb Game
House Transylvania with the idea that is tied up On the eve of CONTINUED>42
34 DECEMBER 2023 VOGUE.COM

ROMA
FENDI BOUTIQUES 888 291 0163 FEN D I .CO M
ROMA
DAV I DY U R M A N .C O M
SCULP TED CABLE

December 2023
S IT T ING S EDITOR: GIANLUCA LONGO. H AIR , CA R ME N DI M ARCO AND M IMM O L ASER RA ;

LA DOLCE VITA
ALESSANDRO MICHELE IN THE DINING ROOM OF HIS APARTMENT IN ROME.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY FRANÇOIS HALARD.
MA KEUP, TANJA F R ISC IC. P RODUC ED BY KIT T EN P RODUCT ION.
144 from different trip to outer 184 Cover Look All Hail the Queen
People in the Sun parts of the world space. There’s the The Get Nicki Minaj wears a Valentino Haute
The work of if they would fate of the planet Whether you’re Couture dress. Irene Neuwirth
legendary American respond to recent to consider too. in the mood for earrings. To get this look, try: Studio
painter Edward collections—and By Chloe Malle giving or getting, Radiance Serum-Powered
Hopper—so redolent paired each one big colors—and a Foundation, Mineralize Skinfinish in
of moody solitude with a particular 174 little shimmer— Cheeky Bronze, Connect in Colour
and Cape Cod designer. By Past Lives go the distance Eye Shadow Palette in Encrypted
sunlight—sets the Dodie Kazanjian A love of all things Kryptonite, Pro Longwear Fluid
scene for fashion romantically 194 Eyeliner and Brow Gel in Black Track,
with a charmingly 164 faded and Last Look Extended Play Gigablack Lash
mid-century sense Out of This careworn inspired Mascara, Lip Pencil in Chicory, and
of modernity World Alessandro Lipglass Clear. All by MAC Cosmetics.
The future is on Michele to turn a Hair, Lacy Redway and Dionte Gray;
156 Lauren Sánchez’s grand Roman makeup, Raoúl Alejandre. Details, see
When Art Met mind—from apartment into In This Issue.
Fashion wedding planning his home. By Photographer: Norman Jean Roy.
We asked 10 artists to an all-female Chiara Barzini Fashion Editor: Max Ortega.

A VA I L A B L E AT D I O R . C O M
MACY'S
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OF THE SEASON
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Letter From the Editor
who is utterly fearless and who
makes photographs that become
modern history.
And so when we had the thought
to devote much of this issue to the
connection between art and fashion,
it was only natural to look to her.
An idea had already come up; it
started with Vogue contributing
editor Grace Coddington, who had
been captivated by the recent
Edward Hopper retrospective at the
Whitney Museum of American
Art. Annie is an enormous Hopper
fan as well, and they’d been talking
about his stirringly modern
juxtapositions of urban life and
offhand human drama. Hopper’s
partnership with his wife, Josephine,
also a painter, provided a kind of
View Finder
hidden history to explore, and the collections we’d
recently seen on the runways in Europe were full of
updated gestures to mid-century elegance and tailoring.
Vogue contributing editor Alex Harrington would
collaborate on the shoot too. So it would be Hopper plus
TOP : HE NRY DILT Z /CORBIS P REM IU M H ISTOR ICAL /GET T Y IM AGES. BOT TOM: DIG ITAL IM AGE © WHITNEY M US EU M OF AM E R ICAN ART/L IC ENS ED
YOU CAN SCARCELY BELIEVE IT’S HER. A young fashion. I knew Annie was dedicated and would do what
woman sits in a coffee shop in 1973, hiding behind her she always does—form the images carefully and
Nikon. The snapshot at the top of this page is of Annie meticulously in her mind.
Leibovitz. She’d begun working for Rolling Stone at that I knew this because she shows me. GET THE PICTURE?
time and she’d already had a couple of assignments from How I love the text messages, emails, LEFT: ANNIE
BY SCALA /ART RESOURC E, NY. © 2023 H EIRS OF J OSEP HINE N. HOPP E R/LIC ENSE D BY A RTISTS RIGHTS SOC IETY ( ARS) , NY.
LEIBOVITZ IN 1973.
Vogue. So much was still to come: A remarkable half and phone calls. They’re a measure BELOW: EDWARD
HOPPER’S JO
century of image-making. of Annie’s excitement, and a IN WYOMING, 1946.
When I think of all the fashion images, portraiture, and reminder—so moving to me—that
photojournalism Annie has created for Vogue, a body these images matter passionately to her. Look at this
of work of incredible breadth—pictures of actors, models, drawing, or this storyboard, she’ll say. Think about
designers, heads of state, and everything in between—I this location. What if we shot this person this way?
confess I’m a little astonished. Line these images up and See what I’m seeing. I always do.
they are the collection of one of our greatest living artists. I can’t overstate how much delight the Hopper images
How lucky Vogue is to have published so many. How lucky gave me as they came in (perilously close to our print
I’ve been to have Annie as a friend, one who comes by dates—Annie works harder than anyone I know, but
the office to tell me her latest ideas and let me share in her every image must be perfect). They do nothing less than
excitement. I think of her as our artist-in-residence, embody what I believe Vogue to be, which is a way
of seeing culture through the lens of fashion, imbuing
clothes with history and storytelling. She’s done this kind
of thing before, of course. Who can forget her Alice in
Wonderland, her Edith Wharton? Like those other
amazing pictorial narratives, this one is populated by
incredible people, artists like Lorna Simpson and
Harold Ancart, the exciting young actor Maya Hawke,
and the settings are thoughtful and exact. Annie’s
re-creations of Hopper’s paintings are uncanny, but they’re
more than reimaginings. They’re creative acts all their own.

BANANAREPUBLIC.COM
Contributors
Na Kim
Artist Na Kim’s usual subject is a
female nude, head and shoulders
only, so it was a bit of a departure for
her to be asked to respond directly Elizabeth Colomba
to a fashion house, in this case For Elizabeth Colomba, the French painter of Martinican heritage,
Bode, for “When Art Met Fashion” “a serendipitous pairing with Christopher John Rogers felt destined.”
(page 156). But, as she points out, Last February at Bergdorf Goodman, she encountered a “breathtaking
“fashion has been used throughout gown” made of madras, a fabric she often incorporates into her paintings
art history as a tool to convey mood, because of its rich Caribbean heritage. It was five minutes before closing
time, and place, especially within time, and the staff couldn’t tell her who made the dress. Months later,
portraits to tell the story about who when Vogue suggested she create a work inspired by Christopher John
the subject is.” Kim, who is also the Rogers, she realized that he was the one who had designed the madras
art director for The Paris Review piece in question. Colomba is known for inserting Black figures into
and Farrar, Straus and Giroux books, historical white spaces, playing with what we think of as the canon of
is currently having her debut solo art history. In the portfolio, an 18th-century-style woman is presented
show at White Columns gallery in in an atypical way: “Historical records from that era would never capture
Manhattan.—  such an unrestrained moment,” Colomba points out.—..
TOP L EF T: COURT ESY OF NA KIM . TOP RIGH T: P H OTO GRAP HED BY ADRIANNA GLAV IANO.
Paul Chan
Paul Chan, a Hong Kong–born artist who quit
BOT TOM : J OHN D. AND CAT H ER INE T. M ACA RT HU R FOUNDAT ION.
making art for six years and started up again in 2015,

loved the idea of responding to Rick Owens. “When
I began making work again,” he says, “designers
were real inspirations for me, because my new work
involved designing garments, though not for human
bodies.” Chan, whose retrospective is currently on
view at the Institute for Contemporary Art at Virginia
Commonwealth University, is referring to his Breathers,
cloth sculptures animated by wind from electric fans.
“I sometimes think of the Breathers as ‘clothing for
spirits.’ So I want them to fit in ways that the best of
fashion offers for people. It just so happens that what
I’m trying to fit is air.” But can fashion be art? “When
it strikes like an axe hitting the frozen sea within us,”
he says, “then yes.”—.. >64

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MIDD L E R IGH T: T H E DAYTON A RT INST IT UT E, DAYTON, OHIO. G IF T OF M R. AND M RS. ANTHONY H ASWELL , 197 1.7. BOTTOM R IG HT: DIGITAL IMAGE © WHIT NEY M US EU M OF AM ER ICA N
TOP L EF T: P H OTOGRAP H ED BY KAT HRYN M AC L EOD. TOP RIGHT: YAL E UNIVERSITY ART GAL LERY, NEW HAVEN, CONNECTICU T. BEQU EST OF STEPH EN CAR LTON CLA R K , B. A. 19 03.
ART/LIC ENS E D BY SCAL A/A RT RESOURC E, NY. AL L T H R EE PAINT INGS © 2023 HEIRS OF J OSEPHINE N. HOP P ER/ LIC ENS ED BY ART ISTS R IGHTS SOC IET Y ( ARS) , NY.
Seaside Rendezvous
It all began simply enough: Not long after “Edward Hopper’s
New York”—a blockbuster survey of the master American
realist’s life and work in the city—opened at the Whitney
Museum of American Art last year, contributing editor
Grace Coddington suggested to Alex Harrington, a fellow
Vogue contributor, that the show could form the basis for a
fashion story. In time, that story became “People in the Sun”
(page 144), which saw Coddington and Harrington join up
with photographer Annie Leibovitz, artist Harold Ancart,
and 25-year-old actor and musician Maya Hawke (pictured
above in Louis Vuitton) for a glorious tribute not only to
Hopper, but also to his wife, model, and would-be agent,
Josephine, a painter herself. Together, the troupe traveled
all over Massachusetts, from Northampton to Wellfleet,
Provincetown, and Truro (where the Hoppers had a home),
re-creating some of Hopper’s most famous paintings. For
Hawke, who has made a habit of visiting the Metropolitan
Museum of Art most weekends, the project was a dream.
“I’m such a huge fan of Edward Hopper and his paintings,
and so it was really cool to learn from Annie some more
about the history of his marriage,” she says. “And it’s an
honor that someone my age does not expect to get in their PAINTED LADIES
lifetime, to be photographed by Annie. I never thought THE VISUAL REFERENCES FOR “PEOPLE IN THE SUN” INCLUDE, FROM
TOP, EDWARD HOPPER’S WESTERN MOTEL, 1957; HIGH NOON, 1949;
that that would happen.”—  AND JO SKETCHING AT GOOD HARBOR BEACH, 1923–1924.
VOGUE IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT © 2023 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 213, NO. 10. VOGUE (ISSN
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Museum Classic
HIGH NOON, HIGH DESIGN

SWISS MADE SINCE 1881
A R T D I R : PA U L M A R C I A N O P H : V I C O O L YA & S A I D A © GUESS?, INC. 2023
M AT T E O B O C E L L I
Up Front
HOUSE RULES
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: PUTTING THE FINISHING TOUCHES
ON VOGUE HOUSE’S FAÇADE, CIRCA 1958; PHOTOGRAPHER
DAVID BAILEY, SHOT BY TERRY O’NEILL IN 1965; MODELS SACHA
QUENBY (IN SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE), GISELLE NORMAN
(IN DIOR HAUTE COUTURE), KAI NEWMAN (IN SCHIAPARELLI
HAUTE COUTURE), NYAGUA RUEA (IN DIOR HAUTE COUTURE),
AND AJOK DAING (IN FENDI COUTURE) WITH BRITISH VOGUE’S
EDWARD ENNINFUL—AND HIS BOSTON TERRIER, RU.
Goodbye,
Vogue
House!
It’s the end of an era in Mayfair.
As our UK sibling relocates
its headquarters, three
former staffers recall office
life, British Vogue–style.
GRACE CODDINGTON
first visited Vogue House in 1959, when I was a photographers Terence Donovan and Brian Duffy—
I
finalist for that year’s model contest. My prize “The Terrible Three,” as they were known—who watched
T ERRY O’NEIL L/ICONIC IM AGES. BOT TO M :
was to be photographed by some of British the wannabe models carrying large portfolios and
TOP L EF T: T HE COND É NAST ARC H IVE .
Vogue’s top photographers—Norman Parkinson, dragging heavy bags in and out of the building. I’d walk
P H OTOG RAP H E D BY SEA N T HOM AS.
Don Honeyman, and Eugène Vernier. I met past them intentionally, as did so many of those girls.
TOP R IGH T: P H OTOGRAP H ED BY
them all at a rather daunting tea party hosted I modeled for 10 years, and came to know Vogue’s editors
by Audrey Withers, the then editor in chief, at the quite well. Beatrix Miller, who became editor in chief
photography studios on the sixth floor (the Vogue offices in 1964, was in her 40s but embraced all the young people
were one floor below). In the same studios, by the early of that era, from the Beatles and the Stones to Bailey,
’60s you might see David Bailey, Saul Leiter, Frank whom she adored, even though he was often quite risqué
Horvat, and Helmut Newton, while in the café opposite with her. Bea was remarkable—she’d come to work saying,
Vogue House, Bailey was often joined by his mates, the “I had this idea in the bath this morning…”—and >7 2

Up Front Magazine Making
then before we knew it, our next issue would be about I had started at Vogue the year before Liz, in 1968.
“the Englishwoman and her garden,” or “breaking all the Another editor, Clare Rendlesham, was brilliant
dusty rules of etiquette.” The extremely talented art but quite harsh. She became a very good friend of mine,
director Barney Wan was her brilliant foil, even if he rarely even though she once said to me, “Grace—you’re just
spoke above a whisper. (Still, he managed to convince too old to model.” I was 28! It was Marit, though, who
Georgia O’Keeffe to be shot by Bruce Weber by simply suggested I meet Bea with a view to joining Vogue as a
knocking on her door in Santa Fe and offering to cook junior fashion editor. Bea and I had lunch at her favorite
her dinner.) Bea took great care of people: In my time Italian restaurant in Soho. The interview was rather
at Vogue House, I went through two marriages and uncomfortable—she asked me about my favorite writers
two divorces, and she was always there to support me. and which university I had gone to. (I don’t read and
Among the editors working for I hadn’t gone to any university.)
Bea were the inspirational Marit “It wasn’t exactly a Still, at the end of the lunch she
Allen, who supervised the Young
Ideas pages, and Sheila Wetton, professional environment, toldThe me I could start in January.
work culture was pretty lax.
who had been a model for designer but somehow we Our days would start around
Edward Molyneux but was now 11 a.m., and if you had one shoot
convinced she looked like Helmut gained a reputation a month, well—that was a lot.
Newton. (Totally untrue: She for being rather We’d go off to China, Russia,
was very chic, with her hair in an Africa, or the Caribbean for two,
immaculate chignon, dressed in
good, even though we three weeks at a time to produce
her uniform of a cardigan, straight had tiny budgets” a 10-page story. Every day, we’d go
out for a three-course lunch and
a glass of wine. It wasn’t exactly a
professional environment, but somehow we
gained a reputation for being rather good, even
though we had tiny budgets.
The fashion culture of the day centered around
Queen Bea. She knew so many people—Princess
Margaret and Lord Snowdon, Elizabeth Taylor
and Richard Burton—who would just drop by her
office. Sometimes they ended up at my desk.
Vivienne Westwood suddenly appeared one day,
unannounced (there was no security), standing
there with her legs strapped together and rings
through her nose and telling me aggressively:
“I should be on the cover of Vogue.” Vivienne
proceeded to pull these S&M-y things out of her
small suitcase, one by one. I was scared to death.
We worked from a chaotic fashion room, with
rows of hulking wood-and-leather desks, like
how I imagined a Fleet Street newsroom to look.
Nothing matched, and the carpet was worn
through. By that time I was dating the restaurateur
Michael Chow, and he came in one day and took
one look at it all and said: “This is terrible.”
Somehow, he talked Vogue into letting him redesign
WORKING LUNCH the space, and in short order the floors were
A STAFF LUNCH IN 1980 FOR SHEILA WETTON,
AT LEFT IN GLASSES, IN THE FASHION EDITORS’ WORK ROOM. stripped to a pale blond wood, and we had new furniture—
GRACE CODDINGTON IS SEATED TO HER RIGHT. these fabulous Zeev Aram glass-and-steel tables, which
everyone hated because you could see all the rubbish that
COURT ESY KAT E COR BET T WIND E R.
skirt, and shoes with tiny heels.) She had the most foul accumulated underneath, and Cesca chairs, which
mouth, but she was divine. And of course there was my everyone also hated because, due to their ’60s miniskirts,
very dearest friend Liz Tilberis, who began working at the rattan scratched their thighs or ruined their tights.
Vogue in 1969 after being a runner-up in the magazine’s Michael also declared: “You’re only allowed to put up one
annual talent contest. We had so many of the same picture of your boyfriend.” Everybody was shattered.
dreams for the magazine—which she would go on to Looking back, my time at Vogue House is like a vision
edit in 1988—and while we were extremely competitive, of my childhood. Then I came to work in America, and
it never got in the way of our friendship. I very quickly grew up. >74

Up Front Magazine Making
PACK AND PLAY

ABOVE: MODEL ALVA CLAIRE (IN EMILIA
WICKSTEAD), ACTOR RIZ AHMED (IN PAUL
SMITH), MODEL LULU WOOD (IN ERDEM), MODEL
UGBAD ABDI (IN RICHARD QUINN), AND THE
WORLD OF INTERIORS EDITOR IN CHIEF HAMISH
BOWLES AT THE VOGUE HOUSE LOADING BAY.
PLUM SYKES
In the early 1990s I was in my early 20s, had recently left
Oxford, and had started at British Vogue as the lowliest
of the low—tidying the fashion closet, photocopying,
filing, and making endless cups of tea for editors.
The so-called “work experience” person was usually only
allowed to stay for three weeks, but I was desperate to
remain. I had met the otherworldly stylist Isabella Blow
in the corridor a few times, and one day summoned up
my courage and, without asking anyone’s permission, asked
her if I could become her assistant. We were standing in
the middle of the open-plan fashion-and-features office,
so everyone could hear everything, including what she
replied: “Why would someone as conservative as you want
to work for someone as extreme as me?”
I somehow persuaded the managing editor’s office that
Issie needed my help with shoots, and spent a blissful
six months working for her. I would arrive at 10, dressed
in my uniform of black jeans and a black polo neck
P H OTOG RAP H S BY SEAN T H OM AS.
(all I could afford then), and sit in the dark corner Issie had
been allocated in the spacious C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 1 8 6
GANG’S ALL HERE

TOP LEFT: BRITISH VOGUE CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ROBIN MUIR,
STELLA MCCARTNEY, AND MODEL VICTORIA FAWOLE
(IN STELLA MCCARTNEY) GATHER IN THE LIBRARY. LEFT:
FAWOLE (IN JW ANDERSON) AND MODEL DANA SMITH
(IN LOEWE) WITH JONATHAN ANDERSON IN THE POST ROOM.

SHE CHANGED THE WAY FASHION LOOKS.
A FILM BY
BETHANN
STREAM HARDISON
NOW AND
FRÉDÉRIC
TCHENG
STREAM NOW
IN A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H
P RODUC ED BY PAU L P RE ISS AT P R EISS C R EAT IV E. S E T DES IGN: J ERE MY RE IM NITZ . D ETAILS, SEE IN T HIS ISSUE.
LADY IN RED
Paulson wears
a Proenza
Schouler dress.
Tiffany & Co. cuff.
FAS H ION ED ITOR : E DWAR D BOWL EG III. HA IR, J OHN D ; MA KEUP, A DAM BREUC HAUD.
Photographed
by Max Farago.
O
n a cool, early fall day in Los Angeles, the actor
The Play’s Sarah Paulson, a person of palpable charm and

sincerity, pauses over lunch to consider how she
came to embody a series of unlikable, and occa-
the Thing sionally truly awful, women. (Her CV includes roles like
12 Years a Slave’s harrowing Mistress Epps, Linda Tripp,
For Sarah Paulson, and One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest’s Nurse Ratched.)
“I try not to judge them,” she says finally. “I try not to think
Branden Jacobs-Jenkins’s about how they’re going to be perceived, because I don’t
Appropriate proved an think many people are thinking about how they’re coming
across in any given moment. People are, myself included,
irresistible lure back to Broadway. reactive and reacting to the environment around them.”
By Alessandra Codinha. If this sounds pretty elementary, you are probably not a
Hollywood star, with all of the correlating concerns about
likability and marketability that particular occupation > 8 2

entails. “There are a lot of incredible actresses out there who The Morning Show), will go back and forth between New
are stars because they play themselves,” the Obie Award– York and Los Angeles. The pair are famously low-key, pre-
winning playwright Branden Jacobs-Jenkins tells me on a ferring long walks through the hills and small dinners with
phone call a few days later. “Sarah’s not like that. She’s a friends to the scene-ier aspects of LA. (They’re also good
legit actress.” He calls himself a Paulson “early adopter,” at living apart: Paulson has partly credited the health of
admiring her in New York stage productions like The Gin- their eight-year relationship to keeping separate houses.)
gerbread House and Crimes of the Heart in the aughts. “And It may be that this production requires a glass of wine and
then of course she became the queen of Ryan Murphy a bath to decompress after the curtain falls or a Taylor Swift
land.” (In the Murphy-verse, Paulson is a central figure soundtrack for the way home. “I didn’t take my Eras Tour
and fan favorite, having starred in nine out of 11 seasons bracelet off for, like, a month and a half,” Paulson says. “I’ve
of American Horror Story in roles as varied as Hypodermic never been 48. I’ve never been in New York doing a play
Sally, Tuberculosis Karen, a villainous Mamie
Eisenhower, and a pair of conjoined twins.)
Now Paulson is appearing in her first stage
production in a decade, Jacobs-Jenkins’s
2013 play Appropriate, which begins pre-
views November 29 and opens December
18. The play, which is directed by Lila Neu-
gebauer, follows the dysfunctional Lafay-
ette family’s return to their ancestral seat in
Arkansas to settle the estate of their recently
departed paterfamilias. There are grudges,
and wounds, and a terrible racist secret in
the attic, as there is in much of American
life. The choice to acknowledge that rot—or
not—forces the remaining family members
to decide what kind of family, and what
kind of people, they are. There are moments
of levity, but the play is not a light lift—
Paulson’s role, the eldest sister, Toni, furious
and bitter in measures, perhaps especially.
(Corey Stoll plays her brother Bo, and Elle
Fanning is River, the fiancée of the youngest
of the Lafayette siblings, Franz.) For Neuge-
bauer, it made Paulson a dream casting. “She
has an electrifying kind of command—a
combination of technical virtuosity and an
appetite for excavating the furthest reaches
of the human capacity,” the director writes in an email. LEAN ON ME
“She is one of the few actors that can push their limits and Elle Fanning plays a supporting role in Appropriate.
completely surprise us,” says Fanning. “I look up to how Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, Vogue, June 2017.
daring and adventurous she is in her choices. They are for
herself and no one else.” with three dogs. You know how they say your cells all turn
For Paulson, who is clad in a dove gray overcoat by over every 10 years? I’m a whole new person since I last did
The Row, a pale blue button-down shirt, wide-legged a play. I’m interested to meet who I’ll be.”
B Sides jeans, and loops of Irene Neuwirth and Jessica When it came to who Toni Lafayette will be, the actor
McCormack jewelry when we meet, relocating to New worked with Julia Crockett, the movement coach who
York will be something of a homecoming. She grew up helped her transform into Linda Tripp for Impeachment:
there, attending Berkeley Carroll School in Brooklyn’s American Crime Story. With a character based in history,
Park Slope before LaGuardia High School, and made her there is footage to scour, diaries to read, material to build
Broadway debut right after graduation in the 1994 play off of. For a fictional creation like Toni, Paulson’s been
The Sisters Rosensweig. She has returned to the city about zeroing in on the character’s calcified, volatile nature and
once every decade, she says, but still, everything about this how that might register in her carriage and cadence. “I’ve
time feels new. Her last stage run was Lanford Wilson’s been watching Chimp Empire and Real Housewives of Salt
Pulitzer Prize–winning comedy Talley’s Folly, a two-hander Lake City, and to me, somewhere in there lies a path to a
opposite Danny Burstein at the Roundabout theater in creative process,” she says. “I know that sounds insane.”
2013, and during that time she says she lived “monasti- (It actually doesn’t: Both programs follow highly reactive,
cally,” on continuous vocal rest and with little social life insular communities deeply concerned with social hierar-
to speak of. This time, her three rescue dogs will be with chy and prone to sudden interclan bouts of violence. And
her; her partner, the actor Holland Taylor (herself making RHOSLC has become must-see TV, we agree. She says
waves as a difficult woman on the ropes in this season of she’s even got her good friend The Last of Us star > 8 4

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Pedro Pascal tuning in: “He’s like, ‘I understand everything Paulson is not a religious person, she says, but “I think
about you’ now that he’s seen it,” she says, “and I was like, ‘I the truth is, at that moment that the curtain goes up or
don’t know how to take that. I really don’t.’”) the lights dim, where those hundreds in the audience
For Paulson, the return to Broadway means more than are together for that one night, it’s the closest thing to
a change of scenery. It’s a head-spinning change of pace, church to me.” People sometimes think that repetition
living a heart-wrenching series of events on loop eight must deaden something about a performance, she says.
times a week, and without the screen actor’s option to stop It doesn’t. Every production is different: a very beautiful,
and try it again. She came up in the theater working with communal experience that only happens one time. And
small casts and is looking forward to a larger corps to share in an age when nearly everything is being disseminated
notes with when the curtain comes on social media, theater requires the
down. The collegial spirit extends to
her castmates: “I have never done a “That moment that the viewer to truly be present.
“It’s one of the few places I can
play before, so knowing I would have curtain goes up or think of in the world where you have
Branden, Lila, and Sarah to lean on
during my first production was a huge the lights dim…it’s the adocumented, performing element and it’s not
and people aren’t just
gift,” says Fanning. closest thing sitting there half-watching, half-
“The beauty of doing a play is that scrolling. It’s a commitment you’re
you kind of strap in. You have a start- to church to me” making. I think it’s really beautiful in
ing point and an arc, and every night a world where so much is happening
you land at the end of the piece, and then you get to try it behind screens,” she says, citing recent studies showing
again the next day,” Paulson says. “I love the idea of buck- loneliness’s abbreviating effect on life span. “So here’s an
ling my seat belt and letting the play take me somewhere.” opportunity for people to all gather into a room and put
For Jacobs-Jenkins, Paulson is less the passenger than the their collective attention on something. How beautiful,”
vehicle itself. “Having her in the cast is like being able to she says, smiling, “and how rare.” She knows a thing or
drive some very expensive foreign car.” two about that. @
Sneak Peak
An under-the-radar new
wellness destination.
f you were forced to dream up a
I list of the world’s most legend-

ary spa destinations, it’s unlikely
that Transylvania would be on it.
But for those able to look beyond the
regional stereotypes of vampires and
werewolves, this blissfully bucolic
corner of central Romania has served
as a low profile destination for intrep-
id wellness pilgrims. And as of this
November, those trekking through its
THE HILLS ARE ALIVE
picturesque mountains or soaking in
ABOVE: The Bucegi and Piatra Craiului
its mineral-rich springs might spot a mountains near Matca. LEFT:
new—and thoughtfully designed— A room at Matca, set in a traditional
haven nestled in the peaks of the Car- Transylvanian farmhouse.
pathian Mountains: Matca, an inde-
pendent spa hotel with a twist. The local ranger for a bear safari. Along
tasteful taupes and creams of its art- with the usual array of saunas and
fully rustic suites and villas are where plunge pools in the spa complex, there
the similarities to other wellness sanc- is also “hay bathing”—essentially,
tuaries end. Here, you can immerse immersing yourself in bundles of
yourself in the local landscapes with warmed grasses to soothe your aches
COURT ESY OF M ATCA.
more than just a brisk hike, whether and strains—or simply lay yourself
by joining local Romanian Ortho- out on the massage tables draped
dox monks for a traditional musical in locally embroidered linens. And
ceremony or—for the more thrill- before you ask: No, they don’t offer
seeking visitor—venturing out with a vampire facials.— 

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Fashionable
Figures
Marley Marius investigates the
rich history of artists working
with clothes—in their lives and,
more urgently, in their work.
DRESS CODES
ABOVE: Rute Merk’s Balenciaga,
SS20, Look 89, 2019. LEFT: Jiab Prachakul’s
Girlfriends, 2022.
what can clothes do to art? While

her fondness for dresses (and for skirt
suits and jeans and chambray shirts)
didn’t quite show up on O’Keeffe’s
TOP : OIL ON CAN VAS, 8 6 1/ 2 X 8 6 1/2 " . COU RT ESY OF TH E A RT IST AND TARA DOWNS, NEW YOR K. P HOTO: J EFFR EY STU RGY.
canvases, a taste for dreamy, creamy
pastels certainly did.
Where other painters may lack
O’Keeffe’s abundant wardrobe, they
can afford to have more fun with
fashion in their work. (See “When
Art Met Fashion,” on page 156, for
BOT TOM : AC RYL IC ON L INE N CANVAS, 63 X 78 3 /4 X 1 5 / 8 ". COURT ESY OF T IM OTHY TAYLOR .
some notable recent examples.) This
is especially true of portraitists. As
the overlapping tides of Abstract
Expressionism, minimalism, and
conceptual art receded with the turn
of the 21st century, a new generation
of figurative artists emerged, keen to
reimagine the form. About 100 years
after John Singer Sargent became the
G
eorgia O’Keeffe, who positing art as the sinew of…ideas? As most important portrait painter of
loved clothes—she an undergirding for the stuff of life? his generation, capturing captains of
owned some 100 dresses, Or did she have a different kind industry (and their wives and daugh-
by her caretaker’s esti- of thread work in mind? O’Keeffe ters) across the northeast and Europe,
mate, “all alike, except that some are owned several pairs of low suede heels Kerry James Marshall, Peter Doig,
black instead of white”—once lik- from Saks Fifth Avenue, rigorously and others leveled their gazes on the
ened painting to “a thread that runs simple but for the raised seams run- triumphs and trials of more ordinary
through all the reasons for all the oth- ning down their centers and branch- people—and in doing so, gave cloth-
er things that make one’s life.” It’s an ing off the sides like the boughs of a ing, once the marker of a sitter’s social
elegant quote, though nearly as tricky tree. If art can do that to the fabric of status, more to say.
to interpret as O’Keeffe’s heady florals existence—transform the banal (and Born in 1900, Alice Neel, who—
and sweeping desertscapes. Was she bourgeois) into the beguiling—then along with the likes of Francis >1 1 6

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For an authorized retailer visit TAC O R I . COM
TACO RI Sti lla D ia m on d N e c kla ce
Bacon, Lucian Freud, and Barkley L. teemed with the tactile textures of obsessed with color, too. My pictures
Hendricks—leaned headlong into baggy shirting, high-waisted denim, used to be very dark, but now I’m
portrait painting decades before it technical outerwear, slick swimwear, putting in vivid reds and greens.” In
became au courant again, set a compel- and glossy leather boots. (All of that other words, the looks are chiefly
ling standard, approaching her figures’ said: In her own life, Prachakul tends a formal exercise—though that
dress as both a trait (signaling “some- to stick with spare, white separates.) hasn’t stopped Solange Knowles,
thing of a person’s unique character,” As a counterpoint, the celebrated or Yiadom-Boakye’s f riend Duro
as the curator Eleanor Nairne has British Ghanaian painter Lynette Olowu, from mining their shapes and
put it) and a useful sign of the times. Yiadom-Boakye, whose portraits are tones for creative inspiration.
“One of the reasons I painted was to based on found photographs, litera- And then there’s an artist like Rute
catch life as it goes by, right hot off ture, memory, and the history of art Merk, 32, who is very specific about
the griddle,” Neel remarked in 1978. itself, does things quite differently. her fashion touch points. While the
In her pictures of family, friends, and The flouncy skirts, patterned dresses, settings (such as they are) for her fig-
her neighbors in Spanish Harlem, the lordly coats, and Jacobean collars urative works often share the abstract
clothes, when present (Neel was indeterminacy of Yiadom-
partial to an unsparing nude), Boakye’s, her canvases have
are keenly observed, from the made explicit reference to
micro-miniskirts and square- Balenciaga—in 2019, Demna
toe shoes on Kiki Djos and tapped her to create a series of
Nancy Selvage in the winkingly paintings based on the house’s
titled Wellesley Girls (1967) to spring 2020 collection, rooted
the slouchy top and bell-bottom in wild fantasies of “power
jeans in Robbie Tillotson (1973) dressing”—and the outer-
or the louche unbuttoned flan- wear brand Arc’teryx. Of the
nel and dorky green crewneck Balenciaga commission, Merk
in Geoffrey Hendricks and Brian recalls, “They saw a connec-
(1978). Neel once followed a tion between what they were
perfect stranger down Madi- trying to achieve with their
son Avenue and into a bank, so clothes, their silhouettes, and
dazzled was she by the woman’s my practice, which was—I
brilliant orange hat. (After the remember this phrasing: ‘Try-
portrait, they went for sundaes ing to look for a relationship
at Schrafft’s.) between humanity and tech-
Many since have taken a nology.’” (Indeed, you’d be
similar tack. While the Thai- forgiven for mistaking Merk’s
born, Brittany-based artist Jiab bleary-faced figures for video
Prachakul, 44, points to Mar- game avatars, when in fact she
shall, Toyin Ojih Odutola, and David works strictly in oils.) Besides, she
Hockney as her primary influences Clothing, once the and Demna both came from Eastern
© T H E ESTAT E OF AL ICE NEE L. COURTESY OF T H E ESTAT E OF AL IC E NEEL AND DAV ID ZW IRNER.

(it was a Hockney show in 2006 that Europe—he from Georgia, she from
first inspired her to paint), gestures to marker of a sitter’s social Lithuania—and she recognized some
personal style are as readily apparent status, has had more of his signature jeans and shoes from
in her work as in Neel’s. Instead of her post-Soviet childhood.
telling people what to wear when they and more to say lately Like Prachakul, Merk, who is based
sit for her, Prachakul explains, “I ask in Berlin, wants to make art that
them, ‘What have you liked to wear that have featured in her work are reflects how we see and experience the
lately? What do you feel like yourself functionally “quite ambiguous,” she’s world right now. Figurative painting
in?’” She finds it important that the said, beholden to neither a particular has been around forever; what makes
clothes feel “authentic”—to the era as period nor specific tastes. (This tracks a 21st-century portrait identifiably
well as the person. “I’m from Gener- with Yiadom-Boakye’s characteriza- of its moment? That’s where nods to
ation X,” she says, “so I’m trying to tion of the people in those clothes: fashion and modern beauty standards
[establish] in the paintings that this is “They don’t share our concerns or can come in—hyperreal depictions of
our aesthetic.” (Prachakul’s sensibility anxieties,” she once said. “They are extravagantly long hair extensions also
is informed, in part, by what she did somewhere else altogether.”) Far more feature in Merk’s paintings—but really,
before committing to art full-time: important are her figures’ “expres- the key to her uncanny visual style is
For years she worked as a casting sions,” the artist told The Guardian. working from digital photographs.
director and coordinator for an adver- “In the last few years, I’ve become “Spending a lot of time in virtual
tising company and then, in Berlin, space, and experiencing many things
as a clothing designer.) “Rendez- OLD SCHOOL digitally—I want to bring it back to
vous in Time,” a recent exhibition of Alice Neel’s miniskirt-clad Wellesley painting,” she says. “I want my aes-
hers at Timothy Taylor in New York, Girls, from 1967. thetic to have the fabric of our time.” @

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True Tone
A new generation is experimenting with the idea
that your “season” determines your most
flattering shades. Lynn Yaeger, a devotee of the
muted palette, spins the color wheel.
want to be a Moonlit Winter! It yellow to my repertoire. This comes as enthusiastic TikTokers—people far
I makes me think of crunchy snow-

drifts and hot toddies and bur-
nished rosy cheeks and cherry red
lips. Alas, this is not to be. Jeannie
Stith, the founder and CEO of Col-
quite a shock to me, since a lifetime
of shopping has perhaps once or twice
found me attempting to don char-
treuse or shamrock and then running
screaming back to 50 shades of gray.
too young to remember the previous
incarnation of this craze. The appeal
remains the same—carefully analyze
your skin tone, hair, and eye color,
figure out what your “season” is, and
or Guru, tells me that I am only half I am having my “colors” done by pretty soon you will be able to rush
right—due to unsuspected greenish Stith because, as it turns out, color out and buy the perfect makeup, and
tints in my eyes and a yellow undertone theory is suddenly back, mesmer- also build a capsule wardrobe com-
lurking in my otherwise ghostly face, izing a whole generation of rabidly posed entirely of things that will actu-
I am actually a Vivid Winter. Which ally look good on you, as opposed to
means that, in addition to my usual the heap of rejects that are currently
DIBS AND DABS
funereal-gray-and-black palette, I can overflowing your closet.
Kendall Jenner in a Fendi coat.
allegedly add chartreuse, shamrock Photographed by Larissa Hofmann, If you are of a certain age and have
green, and one specific shade of lemon Vogue, March 2022. a long memory, you may recall >1 2 0

that back in the 1980s, a book called nightmares—and a few days later they are mall kiosks where you can input
Color Me Beautiful was a hit with will send you your 15-page custom information about your skin, hair,
women all over America, eager to “Color Radiance Report.” and eyes, and get an instant readout
find out their respective seasons. A The site counsels upward of 800 on whether you are a Warm Summer
perusal of the book now provides a devotees a month, and for VIP cli- or a Cool Winter.
harrowing time capsule with unin- ents, Stith herself—a Calm Summer, When I phone up Lily and Lizzie
tentionally hilarious anecdotes of if you are wondering—will do an Heo, Korean sisters who own Seklab,
autumn moms forcing summer analysis over Zoom, which is how I a color analysis studio in Manhat-
daughters into fall colors; allegedly find myself hunched over my laptop tan, they confirm that indeed, they
real-life tales of women like Kathy, as she explains to me that “there used are swamped with clients, everyone
who lost 30 pounds in 12 weeks— to be only four categories, one for from young professionals who want
yikes!—had her colors done, and each season, but as soon as you start a consult before they buy expensive
became a therapist. And there are looking at people and their coloring outfits to prospective brides who, as
even celebrity shout-outs to people you see this wide variety.” if they don’t have enough to worry
like Farrah Fawcett, a summer; Zsa We scroll through pics of my hid- about, need a fast answer to the burn-
Zsa and Eva Gabor, both springs; and eously unmade-up face surrounded ing question: Am I a pure white or
Diana Ross, a winter. by color wheels: “Your skin tone a creamy white? “The Japanese first
If the advice here regarding how to leans cool, so cool colors will look took color analysis seriously, and
build your wardrobe has thankfully better on you. This gold is mak- Koreans made it popular. Koreans
been consigned to the dustbin of ing your skin orangey, the silver is are very mindful of how they look,
history—pantyhose!—the essential brightening you!” And as for muted and not just the women, and not
questions the book seeks to answer— shades, “It looks like there’s dust just young women,” Lizzie Heo tells
the simple and heartfelt, “Why do I on your face!” I am contemplating me. “A lot of the makeup in Korea
feel like crying when I am con- is divided into seasonal colors.
f ronted with 30,000 shades of Stores have separate departments
lipstick and eye shadow?” and Clients at Seklab range for warm and cool tones.”
“What colors actually look good from young professionals to Seklab offers an in-person ser-
on me?”—ring as true today as vice and relies on those infernal
they did four decades ago. prospective brides drapes to unlock the secrets of
Only now, we have the abil- who need an answer to the your season. “Once we put the
ity to share our faces and our drapes on people, they might see
potential ensembles with untold
burning question: Am they are a spring as opposed to
thousands of people over sites I a pure or creamy white? their usual colors. A lot of them
like Instagram. Just search Tik- are really surprised.” I feel like she
Tok for “color theory” and you will my dusty visage as Stith promises is talking directly to me when she says,
find multitudes eagerly sharing their to send me my personalized digital “People get very excited, especially if
adventures, a phenomenon our pre- color card and a laminated version to they only wear black and white. They
decessors over at Color Me Beautiful arrive shortly in the mail. “We’ve sent say they would never have picked out
could never have imagined. Contem- color cards to 28 countries—we have a bright color, but they might try it as
porary DIY instructions on how to a huge following in Canada, the UK, a vacation piece.”
discern your colors are everywhere Australia, and Scandinavia.” I am not going on vacation any
on the internet, but they are not for This color theory renaissance is time soon, and even if I were, would
the faint of heart. One particularly indeed an international phenom- I pack a canary frock or a lime cardi-
terrifying site gives stern edicts on enon, sweeping the Far East in gan? Okay, maybe not. But perhaps
lighting and camera exposures, offers particular. Elise Hu, the author of I could gear up the courage to try,
dictates on how to discover your skin Flawless: Lessons in Looks and Cul- say, the teal eye shadow that unex-
undertones, and teaches you how to ture from the K-Beauty Capital, tells pectedly showed up on my custom
drape what seems like thousands of me she believes that “color theory in palette? And one thing is certain—it
different colored remnants on your Korea benefits from the conflation is a lot more fun to visit a boutique
shoulders while you take an endless of old and new, ancient and cur- brandishing your laminated card
stream of selfies. rent, that works so well in selling than it is to stand half naked in a
Daunted and f rankly exhausted K-beauty trends generally…. It ’s fitting room, a pile of colors you
by the mere prospect of this proj- based on the five main colors you see really shouldn’t ever wear puddled
ect, I am beyond grateful when I in traditional Korean costuming—on at your feet. Instead of bemoaning
find Color Guru, which offers to do one hand you have these symbolic your droopy physique, you could
the hard work for me. The site only colors passed down from many gen- be singing and dancing your way
requires that you send over at least erations, on the other you have high- through the racks, searching only for
seven photos—including one sans tech diagnostic devices that analyze candy apple red and deep sea blue,
makeup, which I assented to in the your colors…projecting an aura of secure in the knowledge that there
name of scientific research for this what’s new and next.” Among these isn’t another Vivid Winter out there
article and which is still giving me diagnostic devices, she informs me, exactly like you. @

Put a Bow on It
Preppy, princess, or punk—the
humble hair ribbon is once
more flying high. By Alice Robb.
he last time I wore ribbons in my hair, I was also
T wearing a leotard and tights: As a kid at the School

of American Ballet, I would often decorate my
slicked-back bun with elaborate satin bows. They
matched the ribbons I crisscrossed along my ankles, bind-
ing my pointe shoes to my feet, and the stretchy belts my
classmates and I wrapped around our waists. My tendus
may have been insufficiently turned out—but when I
pinned on my favorite pale blue ribbons, at least I could be
confident that the back of my head looked pretty.
Now in my 30s, I’ve largely relegated ribbons to the
realm of little-girlhood. But clearly, it’s time to reevaluate: between them, as though she were lacing up a corset, fin-
They dominated the runways this year, from Sandy Liang’s ishing it off with a lightweight hairspray like Session Spray
tidy pastels and floor-skimming streamers to the cheery, Flex from the brand Kevin Murphy to keep the whole
print-on-print chaos at Collina Strada, where raw-edged thing in place. From the front, it appeared as though I were
ribbons swung haphazardly from models’ heads. On Tik- wearing a headband; from behind, the look was less Alice
Tok, Gen Z’ers are swapping out shoelaces for decorative in Wonderland, more dominatrix. A barista’s approval
strips of all shades and taping long bows to the sides of boosted my confidence as I made my way to the London
their eyes, as if crying preppy tears. The trend has spilled Library, where my friend Jessie greeted me by promptly
over into interior design, jewelry, tattoos, and even baked saying I looked like I “belonged in the hills, yodeling.”
goods. (Artist Lina Sun Park weaves ribbons into the lam- Oh, well. My boyfriend told me, diplomatically, that I
inations of croissants.) No surprise, ex-bunheads are at the looked like a Tudor queen. Anne Boleyn—he qualified—
forefront of the trend: Hailey Bieber, who studied ballet objectively the sexiest of Henry VIII’s ill-fated six.
into her teens, has worn them everywhere from the couch Whether the vibe was more farm girl or monarch, osten-
to the Met Gala; and Margaret Qualley went to Cannes tatious ribbons clearly aren’t the look to go for if you’re
with a head-size organza bow affixed to her ponytail. feeling shy. For street-style standout Kristen Bateman,
But my ballet dreams have long since been laid to rest; who recently wore an enormous, sparkly red bow across
could I pull off a style that reminded me more of being her stomach at Paris Fashion Week, that’s the point. “If
11 than 31? On a drizzly day in London, I met with Leo- you’re wearing a big bow as you’re walking past someone,
nie Tobierre at her tranquil salon Onyx to survey some it might hit them in the face,” she explains. Bateman says
of the styles she’s lately been recruited to create—mini bows are about “reclaiming being super-girly in a >1 2 6
bows clipped along the diagonal, ribbons knotted through
loose waves. We decided on a pulled-back style with nar- ALL TIED UP
row black satin, then she parted my hair down the middle, No flyaways here. Photographed by Sean Thomas
twisted it into two French braids, and wove the ribbon in for Vogue, March 2023.

Purina trademarks are owned by Société des Produits Nestlé S.A.
Cat adored.
Chef inspired.
LOVE IS IN THE DETAILS
®
FancyFeast.com
way that’s really empowering.” Not for nothing do many
of Sandy Liang’s fiercely devoted employees get tiny bow
tattoos proclaiming their dedication.
Bows, in fact, have been used for centuries as a kind
of nonverbal language. French revolutionaries pinned
cockades to their clothes; suffragettes slung purple-and-
green sashlike ribbons across their chests. Renaissance
men would drape a lock of hair over their heart and tie a
ribbon around the end to signify they had been claimed,
explains fashion historian Serena Dyer. In 1944, Life mag-
azine published a girl’s guide to communicating through
ribbons: A bow on top of the head meant that the wearer
was “out to get herself a man,” whereas yellow was the
province of man-haters.
Home Is Where
It’s only relatively recently that ribbons and bows became the Art Is
a symbol of girlhood. They have been around since the
Middle Ages, says Dyer, but “prior to the 18th century, Online design retailer
ribbons were primarily a part of menswear”—used to tie
doublets to men’s hose and fasten sleeves to their shirts.
Abask expands.
With the invention of the power loom in the 1700s, rib-
bons became “far more easy to produce, far more widely om Chapman, the cheerful cofounder of
used,” she says. Meanwhile, men’s clothing was increas-
ingly associated with tailoring and muted colors and wom-
en’s with ornamentation. Upper-class women might buy
expensive, sculptural bows, but “even a working girl could
get a new ribbon and change it on her hair or on her dress,”
T MatchesFashion, has a friend who throws
what he deems the best pizza parties in
America. So when that friend’s birthday came
around, Chapman bought him a hand-forged Ben
Bodman pizza wheel made with Damascus steel and
says textile historian Natalie Nudell. “You didn’t need to a beautiful burled handle. This is Chapman’s philos-
be elite to participate.” ophy on gifting—you have to think hard about what
That’s true today, too, of course, explaining part of the will make the person supremely happy. But finding
revived appeal: You can buy a $128 Jennifer Behr velvet bow the thing shouldn’t be so hard. Sources for those
barrette—or you can recycle a ribbon from a floral arrange- items that are essential to turn a house into a home
ment. Even celebrity stylists sometimes source their bows for can be maddeningly decentralized.
free. On one recent photo shoot, hairstylist Evanie Frausto In the short year since it launched in November
wanted to create “something big, sexy, and ’60s” for pop star 2022, Abask (the name comes from the idea of luxu-
Kim Petras. He wasn’t sure what to do—but then he spotted riating in the sun) has become one of the most delight-
a Celine shopping bag on the floor. He cut off the handle ful and efficient—delivery takes
and tied a bow in Petras’s hair. “It was perfect,” he says. @ two days—places to find home-
wares. “It’s creating the fashion
BOT TOM L EF T: SANDY LIA NG/ P H OENIX J OH NSON. TOP AND BOT TOM R IGHT: COURTESY OF ABASK.
experience that everyone is used
RECITAL READY
to, and doing it with design,”
Models backstage at Sandy Liang evoke their inner ballerina.
says Chapman. This Novem-
ber, Chapman and his Abask
cofounder, Nicolas Pickaerts, ven-
in my blood.”— 
STRONG STEMS
ABOVE: Silvia Furmanovich’s inlay jewelry
box. RIGHT: A glass from Theresienthal.

PRODUCED BY VOGUE WITH GOLDMAN SACHS
Clockwise
from top: Rosie
Assoulin, Naomi Elizée,
Design Access Jacques Agbobly,

Carly Cushnie.
Inside a chic celebration of American

designers and their beginnings.
In the golden glow of the elegant And Assoulin transformed roles she
restaurant Verōnika, Vogue and had at iconic design houses into her
Goldman Sachs Private Wealth now decade-old womenswear brand.
Management gathered three Vogue Market Editor Naomi Elizée led
pioneering designers for an engaging all three designers in the insightful
conversation that recognized the exchange. Throughout their influential
importance of community and careers, each benefitted from industry
mentorship early in one’s career. The counsel and the support of peers—and
stories of Rosie Assoulin, Carly all of them underscored the value of
Cushnie, and Jacques Agbobly each open dialogue across the entire fashion
reflect the strength and tenacity that
can be found within the American
design community. “Speak to as many “I started to see myself
people as you can,” Assoulin said to the
fashion design community. Agbobly fashion audience. “Filter their guidance reflected in the industry;
grew his eponymous label from an through your vision, but don’t be tight
independent knitwear project forged in with anything. Share it.” It was
then I started to make
the pandemic. Buyers immediately
took note of Cushnie’s namesake label
powerful advice from an impactful a space for myself.”
evening. —Jacques Agbobly
thanks to its refined debut collection.
Goldman Sachs & Co. LLC is registered with the Securities and Exchange Commission (“SEC”) as both a broker-dealer and an investment adviser
and is a member of the Financial Industry Regulatory Authority (“FINRA”) and the Securities Investor Protection Corporation (“SIPC”). © 2023
Goldman Sachs. All rights reserved.
Picture Perfect
Books by (and about) creatives
light a festive spark.
S
panning fashion, music, painting, sculpture, dance,
and photography, this season’s most elegant nonfic-
tion is perfectly primed for holiday gifting. While
Phillip Ziegler’s Queen Elizabeth II: A Photo-
TOP R IGH T: P H OTOGRAP H ED BY MA RK S EL IGER . BOT TOM : P H OTOGRAPHED BY J UL IAN CALDE R/CAM ERA PR ESS.
graphic Portrait (Thames & Hudson) gathers more than
200 sumptuous studies of the late British monarch, super-
model Linda Evangelista’s endlessly inventive collabora- Beat: The Little Magazine that Could …and Did (Rizzoli)
tions with Steven Meisel make up the aptly titled Linda shares the unlikely story behind Beat, the beloved Lon-
Evangelista Photographed by Steven Meisel (Phaidon), don music magazine; and Marina Harss’s The Boy from
and Vanity Fair: Oscar Night Sessions (Abrams), by Mark Kyiv: Alexei Ratmansky’s Life in Ballet (Farrar, Straus and
Seliger, extends a privileged glimpse inside the world’s most Giroux) offers a riveting portrait of one of the premier
glamorous after-party. Twenty-four years after her death, figures in contemporary dance. In fact, its arrival coincides
CBK: Carolyn Bessette Kennedy (Abrams), by Sunita with the 75th anniversary of the New York City Ballet,
Kumar Nair, examines Bessette Kennedy’s legacy as a fash- where Ratmansky now serves as artist in residence, a mile-
TOP L EF T: P H OTOGRAP H ED BY ST EVEN M EIS EL , VO GU E, OCTOB ER 1992.
ion icon; the darkly compelling vision of a singular fashion stone celebrated in Marc Happel’s New York City Ballet:
photographer animates Deborah Turbeville: Photocollage Choreography & Couture (Rizzoli).
(Thames & Hudson) by Nathalie Herschdorfer; Simone More books promise new ways to engage with some of
Leigh (DelMonico Books/Institute of Contemporary Art, fashion’s greatest tastemakers: Ralph Lauren: A Way of Liv-
Boston), edited by Eva Respini, is the first major mono- ing (Rizzoli) throws open the doors to Lauren’s five gorgeous
graph on that celebrated American artist; and the inimitable homes across New York, Colorado, and Jamaica; and Grace
Barbra Streisand has written a memoir, My Name Is Barbra Wales Bonner: Dream in the Rhythm (The Museum of
(Viking), tracing the arc of her 60-year career. Modern Art, New York) catalogs some 80 rangy works from
On the topic of personal histories: Peru (Rizzoli) is pho- MoMA’s collection—by David Hammons, Lorna Simpson,
tographer Mariano Vivanco’s vivid tour through his home- and others—selected by the London-born Wales Bonner
land and its folklore; Hanna Hanra’s Punk Perfect Awful: for a show there this fall. Other superb art books include
a monograph on the brilliant Rashid Johnson (Phaidon),
and Barkley L. Hendricks: Portraits at The Frick (Rizzoli
TAKE IT OUTSIDE
Electa), which accompanies the historic (and wonderful)
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: From Linda Evangelista
Photographed by Steven Meisel; Serena Williams in Vanity Fair: exhibition of the same name. You may well want to keep
Oscar Night Sessions; from Queen Elizabeth II. one—or more!—of these for yourself.— 

SUITS HER
Nicki Minaj wears
a Marc Jacobs
blazer and pants.
Tory Burch
earrings.
Fashion Editor:
Max Ortega.
RAISING
HER GAME
On the eve of releasing
a new album, Nicki Minaj
is in a contemplative
mood, thinking about
marriage, motherhood,
alter egos, creativity, and
confidence. By Rob
Haskell. Photographed
by Norman Jean Roy.
n an evening in late cast a lurid shadow over her musical
O
August, just as Don- bona fides? Is this the Nicki Minaj
ald Trump is getting who stormed into the mainstream
booked on 13 fel- more than a decade ago with a verse
ony charges at the promising to eat your brains? Swag-
Fulton County Jail ger is an essential surface effect in
in Atlanta, a sherbet sunset in the hip-hop, and Minaj, the best-selling
western sky casts Santa Monica Bou- female rapper of all time, has worn
levard in a Nicki Minaj–pink blush. her crown with especial pomp. (Con-
But Minaj has no time on this day sider the title of her last album, 2018’s
for politics, nor for the soft summer Queen.) As a rapper, she has never
tints gathering outside the window- allowed for the possibility of a boys’
less sound booth of a Los Angeles club, her sexual candor emboldening
recording studio. She is under pres- a generation of women rappers to talk
sure to hand over a mastered version about their body parts with the same
of “Last Time I Saw You,” a teaser vulgar glee as their male peers.
release from her upcoming fifth stu- Nicki Minaj—as the Barbz, her
dio album, and she is nitpicking. fierce fan army, know well—contains
The verses sounded a bit muffled multitudes, and it would be facile to
to her ear, so the team sent the track suggest that the 40-year-old rapper,
to a mixer, who brightened up the who gave birth to a son amid the iso-
whole thing. But now it’s ping-y and HEAD OF THE CLASS lative unease of the pandemic, has
“radio-ish,” she feels, and she swears A yearbook picture of then Onika retired that old pugilist. She had to
she hears an ever-so-slight buzz Tanya Maraj, age 17, at LaGuardia High fight for everything growing up: for
School in New York.
underneath the beat, though no one her father’s attention, for her moth-
else is picking up on it. A scholar of er’s approval, for material comforts,
her genre and a rigorous wordsmith, for the feeling of safety inside the
she is also a painstaking listener of her four walls of her home but also in her
own music; she combs through her Here is a song steeped in two new, adopted home country. Pink Friday 2,
recordings, rewrites verses, changes rather adult flavors: regret and uncer- her new album out this month, was
up her tone, adds drums, subtracts tainty. “It’s a song about guilt,” she written from the vantage point of a
them. (There were 27 versions of explains. “And I don’t think people woman who has gotten so many of
“Anaconda,” her 2014 hit, before she make a lot of music about the expe- the things she dreamed about. And
blessed the single.) She presses her rience of guilt. But if you talk to any yet the past still tugs. The new album
engineers to punch up certain words human being on earth about it, they asserts in its very title the wish to
and ensure that every syllable of her would know exactly what you mean. return to the days when she wrote
raps is clear and comprehensible. That ‘I wish I had’ feeling. Once I every track top to bottom and laid
Nicki Minaj wants to be understood. wrote the hook, I started to think of her verses over rhythms she plucked
“I’m a bit…particular,” she concedes. people that I love and see every day off the beat CDs that you could buy
“Sometimes things that the best and still take for granted. You know on Sutphin Boulevard in Queens. In
engineer in the world wouldn’t hear, what I’m saying? So I hope the song hip-hop, when you’re as famous as
I hear. And you know what? I am does a good thing. It’s like, remember Minaj became after Pink Friday, the
always right.” how you wish you could have? Well, other rappers and producers assemble
“Last Time I Saw You” is a strik- you can’t. You can’t go back in time. like magi, bearing beats and choruses.
ingly melancholic track for an artist So try to make sure you have differ- Just add a verse and call it your own.
for whom bombast and humor have ent experiences with people that you (And make no mistake, Minaj has
been the most conspicuous modes. love. All the grudges, even just being never recorded a rap that she did not
It’s a song about losing someone—a busy and caught up, like when you’re author.) “When I look back at a lot
rare layover in the irony-free zone chasing and working and being an of my music, I’m like, Oh, my God,
that her fans will remember f rom adult.” She pauses, and her eyes spin where was the me in it?” she says. “So
“Moment 4 Life,” the breakout love slightly upward, as they often do for this album, I went back to the old
song from 2010’s Pink Friday, her when she is considering the best way game plan.”
debut studio album. “So the hook to explain herself. “I’m not saying I Aubry “Big Juice” Delaine, Minaj’s
is”—she starts singing, softly, her want this to be a sad song. Actually longtime mix engineer, sees an artist
eyes closed—“I wish I’da hugged you I want people to feel happy when they more in control of all aspects of the
tighter the last time I saw you / I wish hear it. Happy-sad. Then again, look creative process. The lyrics and mel-
I didn’t waste precious time the night at Adele. That woman has made me odies feel different, somehow, even
when I called you / I wish I remem- cry a million times, yet I want more.” while they build on the DNA of the
bered to say I’d do anything for you / Is this the same Nicki Minaj who records that came before. “Imagine a
Maybe I pushed you away because I has so often come in guns blazing, Nicki Minaj greatest hits album, but
thought that I’d bore you.” whose catalog of beefs has sometimes all the songs are new,” he says.
136
THEN AND NOW
“I had adult burdens
way too early,” Minaj
says. Ferragamo
sweater, briefs, and
earrings.
“I think of ‘Nicki
Minaj’ more
like the Superman
suit—who you
change into when
you go into the
telephone booth”
More than in the method of music

making, Minaj has been interested in
tapping into what she recognizes as
a hopefulness that lit up the original
Pink Friday, a sensibility that some-
how got muddled by the pressures
of stardom and the presence of so
many cooks with their hands in the
sonic stew. She was pleased, recently,
to see a retweet of something that
Kim Kardashian posted years ago,
when that first album was released.
It was a line from “I’m the Best,” the
intro track to Pink Friday, that went,
“I’m fighting for the girls who never
thought they could win.” “The idea
that saying something like that could
give hope to people—that optimistic
outlook is something I think I got
away from,” Minaj explains.
Fame, success, money, motherhood,
the crossroads of middle age—these
things may make life complicated, but
Minaj would like to be clear that they
cannot compare to the challenges she
faced before Pink Friday. The three
years leading up to her breakout
album were, she believes, the most
stressful in her life. “Not knowing if
you’re going to be broke, not know-
ing if you’re going to be a failure,” she
says, “there’s nothing more compli-
cated than that.”
The sound booth is dark, candlelit,
bathed in pinkish light. It’s the vibe
Minaj favors for long sessions in the
studio. She wears a sheer pink shirt
crawling with sequined Chanel logos,
blue jeans, and pink Chanel tweed
sandals. A Chanel purse with pink
PVC windows, a souvenir from the
video for “Barbie World,” sits beside
her. Her pink nails, with little rhine-
stone icebergs congregating at the
cuticles, are so long that she uses
the knuckle of her right thumb to
138
HOT IN THE
SHADE
Bottega Veneta
trench coat and
shirt. Albertus
Swanepoel hat.
BEAUTY NOTE
Build the mystery.
Tom Ford Gloss
Luxe in Disclosure
blends chamomilla
flower oils for
a hydrating wash
of color.
PINK DREAM
Minaj wears a
Vetements jacket,
hoodie, and pants.
Her son, whom
she publicly calls
Papa Bear, in Gucci.
OPPOSITE: Dolce &
Gabbana Alta Moda
dress. Tiffany &
Co. pendant.
compose text messages. Minaj has a hard, dazzling shell of her fame, and he whatsoever save for an occasional
reputation for being protective, even offered a tether to the old days. brief visit from a grandparent. She
prickly, around journalists, but in fact “Because I’ve known my husband never felt so exhausted in her life,
she is warm, relaxed, open, reflective. for so long, there’s an ease we have even on her three world tours. She
“I think a lot of creators will under- with each other,” she explains. “We remembers the atmosphere of com-
stand this,” she ventures. “There’s a make each other laugh. We’re silly. miseration that pervaded her mar-
freeness that you have around you And we’re always reminiscing about riage at the time. “I’m not going to
when you’re at your best, when you’re some old story. If it was a guy that I lie, things got testy between us,” she
doing your thing at your peak. There’s met as Nicki Minaj, I think I’d feel recalls. “Because of our history, I
like this lightness in the air. You’re like they liked me because I’m Nicki think we knew we’d get past it. But
happy even if you’re writing a sad Minaj, and what if I don’t look like there’s no such thing as confidence
song. But once you start knowing Nicki Minaj every day? And that, in parenthood. I kind of wish that
that you’re being judged, there’s no combined with pregnancy, would someone had told me—although
longer that free spirit. People who probably have made me crazy.” I’m sure I wouldn’t have been able
excel at something make it look easy, Marriage and motherhood prom- to understand it—that there’s a level
but they also deal with a lot of fear ised to be escapes, after all, f rom of anxiety, and you think it’s going
of letting people down and of letting Nicki Minaj the brand. “I think that to go away, but in fact it gets scarier.
themselves down. Once So often you think: I don’t
you make it, it’s like any- know how to do this!”
thing you say can be used At times, the public-
against you. It’s like when facing Minaj has seemed
you get arrested—that ’s like a land mine of emo-
literally what being famous tions ready to detonate
feels like. You go from hav- all over the Twitter-verse.
ing this fun, curious nature, Motherhood has tested
laughing and joking, to her patience, and she finds
realizing not everyone gets that she is passing. She tells
your sense of humor, not me a story about meeting
everyone likes you. And a woman who thought of
they will figure out how to herself as the world’s best
put a negative spin on any- homemaker. Her house
thing you do. It hurts.” was immaculate, the food
In September 2019, Minaj was perfect, the children
posted a tweet that seemed had no hair out of place.
to convey the toll of her But little by little the wom-
success, suggesting that she an noticed that her self-
had had it with the indus- esteem derived solely from
try and with her detractors: her children’s accomplish-
“I’ve decided to retire & have ments, or from a sense of
my family. I know you guys superiority to other moth-
are happy now.” The Barbz, ers. She started to feel
momentarily betrayed, went guilty about not working,
into a frenzy, and the tweet and, defying a chorus of
disappeared. But it was ob- skeptics, she put herself
vious that she had soured, through nursing school.
for a time, on the business of music. deep down inside, I believed that And then, as a nurse, she started to feel
That same year, surprising fans who once I had a family, I would just lose guilty for working, for missing precious
may have expected one of her rumored the desire to make music,” she says. moments in her children’s lives. “I was
liaisons with famous rappers (Drake? “I would always tell people, ‘Watch, like, OMFG,” Minaj recalls. “She felt
Eminem?) to prove true, she married when I have a child I’m going to cook guilt when she was doing the perfect
Kenneth Petty, a high school flame every meal for him and bake cookies homemaker thing, and guilt as a work-
with a checkered past who had grown every day.’ Maybe subconsciously I ing mom when she missed a moment
up a few blocks from her in Queens hoped my focus would just be on in their lives. Maybe God let that lady
and was part of a big group of teen- being a mother, and I looked forward say that to me because it made me
agers who gathered at the same pizza to that idea. It felt like a relief. But think, Well, if I’m going to have mom
place after school. He has always and what happens is that you find out you guilt regardless, I might as well con-
only called her Onika (Nicki was born have to work.” tinue doing the only thing I know how
Onika Tanya Maraj, in Trinidad, and Minaj has not publicly revealed to freaking do, which is make music.”
Minaj was a stage name that she was the name of her son, whom she pre- It is well known that Minaj had
pushed by a manager to adopt). He fers to call Papa Bear. She and Petty a difficult childhood. When she
was, importantly, unimpressed by the navigated his infancy with no help was three years old, her parents left
141
Trinidad for New York, leaving her those performances to Myspace,
under the care of her grandmother, which got her some attention from
in a house crowded with aunts, uncles, industry executives. This led to a col-
and cousins. Two years later, settled in laboration with the rapper Lil Wayne,
South Jamaica, Queens, her parents “I’ve had a lot of who worked with her on several mix-
collected her and her older brother. tapes, essentially homemade albums
The family was poor, and she felt it time to figure that she used to sell out of a little
keenly. “You figure out the value of myself out. The idea white BMW she had saved up for.
money when you come from a dif- She became a sensation in the under-
ferent country, and then you don’t of accepting what ground hip-hop world, and in 2009
have what the other kids have,” she you can’t change— Wayne signed her to his label, Young
recalls. “Children know a lot more Money. With the original Pink Friday
than you think regarding poverty.” it just never clicked a year later, she became a star.
She remembers a time in fourth with me before. Minaj never went in for partying,
grade when every girl suddenly had and because of her father’s difficul-
a certain pair of $50 Fila boots. “A
Now I understand” ties, as a very young woman she was
girl I considered a friend of mine— apt to wag a finger at her girlfriends
in front of all these people—looks at for smoking marijuana. They used
me and says, ‘You think your mother to tease her in turn at nightclubs for
could afford that?’ When you hear nursing a single cocktail and swear-
things like that, you put them some- a conscious effort to be addicted to ing she was drunk. But she takes care
where in your subconscious, and you a drug that would have him steal his to say that she does not place herself
make yourself a promise.” children’s video games and sell them above her old friends. “I feel like I will
Minaj, who grew up attending a for money. Think about that—who always consider myself to be just like
Pentecostal church with her mother, would make a conscious effort to my father,” she says. Years ago, while
remembers a prayer that she delivered do that? Now I realize, those people briefly living in Atlanta to advance
as a young child, one of her earliest weren’t making those choices because her music career, she was prescribed
memories. She believes she was just they wanted to hurt their family. Percocet for painful menstrual cramp-
five years old, months after she had Addiction took over their bodies and ing. It was enormously helpful, until
moved to the US. Her mother had their lives. They were victims too.” she found that she was taking the
embraced the prevailing soap operas By the time she was 11, possessed medication even when she wasn’t in
of the day, and Days of Our Lives of that special confidence that some- pain. “No one told me that this was a
was flickering through the static times bubbles up from chaos, Minaj narcotic and this was addictive. Luck-
of her parents’ bedroom television, felt that she could run the house bet- ily I was able to ground myself. But—
though no parents were around. She ter than the grown-ups. “I had adult once an addict, always an addict. I
remembers understanding that the burdens way too early,” she recalls, feel like if you’ve ever experienced
show was being acted, that people “but I had tunnel fucking vision.” She addiction to anything, which I have,
like her, who enjoyed pretending and knew she wanted to be an actress and you always have to think twice and
being silly, were playing the parts, and attended the LaGuardia performing three times about the choices that
that maybe she could play a part and arts high school. She remembers feel- you make.” She believes that the risk
change her life. She got down on her ing so impatient to get out there and of substance abuse is especially high
knees and said, “God, please make me audition, certain that she would be a among those who live under a micro-
rich so I can buy my mother another success. “I literally told everybody that scope. “Look at some of our biggest
house and take care of my family.” by the time I turned 19, I would be celebrities. They eventually either get
In the 1980s, crack cocaine ravaged just as famous as Halle Berry and Jada laughed out of wanting to go outside
families, especially Black families, Pinkett, and no one could tell me any anymore, like Michael Jackson, or
P RODUC ED BY BOOM P RODUCT IONS. SET DESIG N: VIKI RUTSC H .
across America’s big cities. Minaj’s different. So when I went to auditions criticized, like Whitney Houston, or
late father moved from weed to add- and didn’t get parts, I was shocked. they fight silent battles, like Prince.
ing crack to his weed, and then to I would sit by the phone thinking, I These are some of the greatest of all
crack on its own. He drank a lot and know they’re gonna call; everybody’s time. And one day they decided, ‘You
was sometimes violent, once setting gonna love me and see how great I know what? I’d rather self-medicate
his own house ablaze with his wife am. I didn’t get one callback. But at and be in my own world.’ ” Minaj
inside. Minaj feels that her mother the same time I was like, Eff this shit, seems to be accounting for the scar
P H OTOG RAP H E D AT UNT ITL ED NYC.
never understood his addiction at a I need money.” tissue amassed around her relation-
time when drug users were experi- She waited tables, famously get- ship with the press. “Should you keep
encing peak Reagan-era stigma. “I ting fired from three separate Red on doing interviews and pouring out
think about watching my father go Lobsters for discourteous treatment your heart so people can laugh? No.”
back and forth, and I just wish that at of customers. She worked as an office Minaj was taken with The Last
the time I understood that he wasn’t manager. And she began writing raps Dance, the 2020 Michael Jordan doc-
doing it because he wanted to,” she and performing with local musicians. umentary, in which the basketball
says. “I thought that he was making In her early 20s she was uploading great spoke C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 1 8 6
142
BUCKLE UP
Alexander McQueen
gown, earring, and
cuff. In this story:
hair, Lacy Redway
and Dionte Gray;
makeup, Raoúl
Alejandre. Details,
see In This Issue.
HOUSE STYLE
In a nod to Hopper’s
starkly beautiful
High Noon, 1949,
actor and musician
Maya Hawke steps
out in a Miu Miu
dress; miumiu.com.
Fashion Editors:
Grace Coddington
and Alex Harrington.
People in the Sun
The work of legendary
American painter Edward
Hopper—so redolent of
moody solitude and Cape Cod
sunlight—sets the scene
for fashion with a charmingly
mid-century sense of
modernity. Photographed by
Annie Leibovitz.
WHAT A CIRCUS
A group of artists
including (FROM LEFT)
Rashid Johnson (in a
suit from J. Mueser;
jmueser.com), Chase
Hall, Phoebe Derlee
(in a shimmering
Erdem dress; erdem
.com), Cindy Sherman,
Lorna Simpson (in
Dior; Dior boutiques),
and Hadi Falapishi riff
on Hopper’s ragtag
cast of characters in
Soir Bleu, 1914.
146
SEEMS LIKE
OLD TIMES
Channeling the
colorful quiet of
Western Motel, 1957,
Hawke leans into
the elegant restraint
of a mid-length,
blush-colored Prada
dress; prada.com.
At rear, artist Harold
Ancart wears a
J. Mueser vest and
pants; jmueser.com.
The Row shirt;
therow.com.
148
WATER COLORS
Hopper—played in
this portfolio by the
Belgian-born, New
York–based Ancart—
once dashed off a
sketch of his wife,
Josephine, during a
visit to Gloucester,
Massachusetts, early
in their relationship.
Hawke is similarly
inspiring in a
Louis Vuitton gown;
select Louis
Vuitton boutiques.
GOING NOWHERE FAST
Just as Jo seized her chance to capture the mountains in Wyoming during a 1946 trip there, Hawke surrenders to the
siren call of Cape Cod Bay—and the playful island print of a breezy Miu Miu shirt; miumiu.com. Prada ring.
dward and Josephine Hopper made a funny After they married, Jo became Ed’s primary model—
E
pair. He was from a small village on the endlessly gazing through windows, or seated on beds, or
Hudson River, while she was born and raised standing in the sun—as well as his bookkeeper and liaison
in New York City. Where he tended toward with dealers. But while she delighted in her husband’s
brooding introversion, she signed her letters, success—his mounting recognition as a crack observer of
regardless of their content, “Cheerily, Jo.” urban and small-town life was, after all, keeping the lights
They fought bitterly, yet they stayed together for more than on, with the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Whitney
40 years—from 1924 until his death in 1967 (she died in Museum of American Art, the Museum of Modern Art,
1968)—dividing much of that time between a walk-up in and other major institutions buying and showing Ed’s
downtown Manhattan and a house on Cape Cod. They work by the early 1930s—Jo was pained at how her own
were also both artists: Jo, like Ed, studied at the New York creative practice, mostly characterized by jaunty floral still
School of Art, and in 1923, when they were both in their lifes, suffered as a result. “I do need some kind of expres-
early 40s, she helped him sell a painting, The Mansard Roof, sion—need it badly—& not a larger dishpan at that,” she
to the Brooklyn Museum, where she was showing a suite grumbled in her diary in 1935. And then, two years later:
of watercolors. (At the time, he was chiefly making his “What has become of my world—it’s evaporated—I just
living as an illustrator.) And so began the rest of their lives. trudge around in Eddie’s.”
152
INSIDE INFORMATION
Hopper’s powers of observation weren’t limited to figurative work; interior studies like Rooms by the Sea, 1951, and
Sun in an Empty Room, 1963, feel just as dynamic. Here, Hawke slips into the light in a Marco Zanini dress.
Yet in this portfolio, photographed by Annie Leibovitz, says. “I had a really hard time at school academically, so cre-
the Hoppers’ decades-long creative and personal partner- ativity and art classes and stories and non-narrative thinking
ship comes to vivid, windswept life. Playing the parts are became a real refuge for me to feel capable and expressive.”
two very fine New York–based artists in their own right: A decade or so later, Hawke—better known to some
Harold Ancart, a Belgian-born painter and sculptor, and as Robin Buckley in Stranger Things—is coming off of a
the 25-year-old actor and musician Maya Hawke. banner year, with appearances in Wes Anderson’s Aster-
Hawke has lately been wrapped up in the longings and oid City; opposite her mother, Uma Thurman, in the dark
frustrations of another mid-century creative: the writer comedy-thriller The Kill Room; and as Leonard Bernstein’s
Flannery O’Connor, whom she plays in Wildcat, a film eldest daughter, Jamie, in Bradley Cooper’s Maestro—to
directed by her father, Ethan. (Currently seeking distri- say nothing of the string of singles she’s released. (Hawke’s
bution, Wildcat was one of several productions to secure a second full-length album, Moss, came out last year.)
SAGAFTRA interim agreement.) The idea behind it was Yet the searching, restless tone of O’Connor’s work
Maya’s: As a high schooler, she’d been drawn to A Prayer continues to resonate. “She just insisted on being her-
Journal, written when O’Connor was in her early 20s. “She self,” Hawke says. “She was a prickly person and nobody’s
had so much self-doubt and so much ambition when she was hero—but she’s my anti-hero.” One senses Jo Hopper
young, in this journal, and I really connected to that,” she would have felt just the same.— 
153
154
STAGE CRAFT
The Academy of Music
in Northampton,
Massachusetts, plays the
part of the nondescript
theater in Hopper’s
New York Movie, 1939—
and Hawke, one very
glamorous ticket-holder
in her Altuzarra coat and
shoes; altuzarra.com.
Jason Wu Collection
dress; jasonwustudio.com.
In this story: hair, Julien d’Ys;
makeup, Francelle Daly.
Details, see In This Issue.
PRO DUCE D BY A L STUDIO. SE T DES IG N : M A RY HOWA RD.
WHEN
ART
Fashion loves art, and designers love to
pay tribute to artists—Yves Saint Laurent
put Piet Mondrian on his graphic mini,
Miu Miu collaborated with John Wesley,
Dior’s Kim Jones has worked with
Peter Doig, and Louis Vuitton handbags
brandish Yayoi Kusama’s dots, to name
just a few. But what if an artist was directly
asked to make something that was inspired
by a designer? For this portfolio, that’s
exactly what happened. We asked 10 artists
from different parts of the world if they
would respond to recent collections.
Vogue paired each one with a particular
MET
designer, and the artist had complete
freedom to do whatever they wanted.
By Dodie Kazanjian.
FASHION
ELIZABETH COLOMBA ON
CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS,
NONCHALOIR
“Here, time takes on an almost fictional quality.
Her presence seems to traverse the boundaries
of conventional chronology, existing in a parallel
reality—an era that only exists within the realms
of imagination, a time that never truly was.”
PAUL CHAN ON
RICK OWENS,
© BE AT RIZ M ILH AZ ES ST UDIO. F IF T H S EASON T R EER 3 : COU RT ESY OF TH E ART IST AND G REE NE NAF TAL I GAL L ERY.
VIDEO STILLS FROM
P REV IOUS S P R EA D: P HOTOGRAP H ED BY A DRIANNA G L AV IANO. BAOBÁ: PHOTOGRAP HE D BY P EPE SC HET T INO.
FIFTH SEASON
TREER 3
“Thinking about what
‘fits’ us, not only physically
but metaphysically, is
interesting. Because if our
ideas and beliefs are
treated less like immaterial
BEATRIZ MILHAZES substances that somehow
ON DURO OLOWU, underwrite the unchanging
essence of who we are, and
BAOBÁ more like garments, then
“Fashion design has been we may be more apt to try
one of the references in on new ideas and concepts,
my work since the ’90s. the same way we try on
Some of my motifs a new piece of clothing.”
were inspired by Emilio
Pucci’s designs from
the ’60s. These are the
poetry of a time.”
“Fashion insists on galloping along,

transient and ever mutating, while art,
and I as an artist, pursue longevity.”
—WANGECHI MUTU
158
WANGECHI
MUTU ON DIOR,
MY BELLY FLOWER
SUCKING BIRD
“Fashion or clothing—
embellishments, body art,
anything we place upon
the naked body—is a very
special and personalized
form of expression and
communication, either
subliminal or overt…. I think
that art and fashion are
always dancing around
one another, and often
stepping on each other’s
feet. I create in search
of meaning; with fashion,
we search for ways to
mean something to one
another, in how we appear.”
159
“There’s something really
magical about a person
getting dressed and being
able to convey: This is
the mood I’m in, this is how
I want to be seen. To me,
that’s art.”—NA KIM
NA KIM ON BODE,
HIGH NOON
“The line that delineates art
from non-art is so interesting
to me. So many things make
art art, and I think it often
boils down to having a point of
view, or evoking a specific
feeling or mood, which I think
fashion often does.”
HADI FALAPISHI ON MARNI,

MOUSEHOLE #18
“My response for Marni was the idea of the
dress being upside down, and it developed
into the idea of a figure wearing the dress
and looking at a mousehole (the world) in
a surprising position, and the world (a cat)
looking back at her from the window.”
TSCHABALALA SELF
ON CHANEL,
FROM AFAR IN
CHANEL
“I always enjoy melding
the boundaries between
art and fashion. In reality
I think there is a false
dichotomy between the
two disciplines. Fashion
is functional, and often the
functional creative
disciplines get relegated
to ‘design’—which
I believe is a bit of an
antiquated idea. It is all
art—art is life, and
living well is an art form.”
RAGNAR
KJARTANSSON ON
RALPH LAUREN,
DAWN OR SUNSET,
WHO CARES?
“I just found the idea fun, that
a man with glasses taped
together by a Band-Aid, living
in Reykjavík, should respond
artistically to Ralph Lauren in
Vogue. Irresistible absurdity.”
“What I like about art and fashion

together is that they both aspire to
beauty, and sometimes seek to provoke.
I also believe that both thrive on
the element of surprise.”—HADI FALAPISHI
161
P O RT RA IT: P HOTOGRAP H E D BY ADA M REIC H.
JILL MULLEADY ON PRADA, NICOLAS PARTY ON ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, PORTRAIT

THE LAST DAYS OF THE WINTER “The fabric in my painting is taken from Raphael’s The Alba Madonna, at the
“I wasn’t sure how to collaborate with this collection, National Gallery of Art in Washington. It’s a good example of how fabric and
so I just used the model and the clothes as what fashion were always big subjects for painters. It also points out that the history
they are here, for my watercolor.” of color is often more linked to fashion and dying fabric than to painting.”
163
The future is on
Lauren Sánchez’s
mind—from wedding
planning to an all-female
trip to outer space.
There’s the fate of the
planet to consider too.
By Chloe Malle.
Photographed by
Annie Leibovitz.
Out of
This World
TIME AFTER TIME
Inside the 10,000 Year
Clock, a subterranean
project in West Texas
backed by Lauren
Sánchez’s fiancé, Jeff
Bezos. She wears a
Dolce & Gabbana dress.
Fashion Editor:
Tabitha Simmons.
t’s a little early, ladies,” says Jeff Bezos, and he Sánchez, 53, and Bezos, 59, have their eyes trained on
I
erupts with his signature machine-gun laugh. His their own future. In May, Bezos proposed to Sánchez with
fiancée, the newscaster turned helicopter pilot a pink diamond, possibly viewable from space and defi-
turned philanthropist Lauren Sánchez, has just nitely viewable through a paparazzo’s long lens aimed at
asked Bezos to make us margaritas. It is 2 p.m. the prow of Koru, Bezos’s three-masted sailing yacht, the
“We’ve had a long day!” she says, with a coy smile. largest in the world, which kicked off her maiden voyage
Indeed, Sánchez has already taken me on a helicopter with a newly engaged couple unabashed in their deckside
tour of the vast West Texas ranch where Bezos spends canoodling. Portmanteau pending (BezChez?), the couple
holidays and launches rockets from his Blue Origin space were seemingly everywhere this summer. You couldn’t open
facility. We have also descended 500 feet to the base of the a tabloid without a new snap (courtesy of paparazzi or
so-called 10,000 Year Clock, a subterranean engineering Sánchez’s Instagram) of them blissfully bobbing around
feat envisioned by Bezos with next generations in mind. “It Europe: Bezos emerging from the water like a Mediter-
represents thinking about the future,” Sánchez says. ranean He-Man in palm-print swim trunks, his fiancée
166
trailers where the photographer Annie Leibovitz, fashion
editor Tabitha Simmons, and crew had been put up after
yesterday’s sweeping photo shoot across the vast Texas
property. Security was tight but unobtrusive. The vibe was
Oppenheimer meets Amangiri.
At Astronaut Village, Sánchez hugged everyone in
her path, including me. “Chloe! I feel like I know you!”
she said, continuing to hold my arms. She was cleanly
made-up, practically photo-shoot-ready all over again, in
Staud + Wrangler jeans and Alexander McQueen sneakers,
pristine white despite the dust. “We’re flying, otherwise I’d
be in cowboy boots,” she said, before adding conspiratori-
ally, “though I have flown in heels before.”
With that, she led me toward a Bell 429 helicopter:
“There’s my baby, and it’s not Jeff!” Over a decade ago,
Sánchez earned her fixed-wing pilot’s license and then
trained to become certified as a helicopter pilot. Follow-
ing a successful run as a TV newscaster, she formed an
aerial production company that has consulted on films such
as Dunkirk and now shoots all of Blue Origin’s launches.
She’s also inspired Bezos to get his pilot’s license, and she
talks about helicopters the way teenage equestriennes talk
about their horses: “Isn’t she gorgeous?”
Once settled in the cockpit, she and a copilot, Zeus—
“Yes! That’s his real name!” said Sánchez—gave me an
aerial tour of the property, reported to be over 400,000
acres, a ranch near the New Mexico–Mexico border that
Bezos purchased in 2004, as it reminded him of boyhood
summers spent on his grandfather’s land in Cotulla, Texas.
We hovered 500 feet over the mesquite- and prickly-
pear-dotted desert, and through her headset Sánchez
eagerly recounted the shoot the day before. “Epic is an
understatement!” she said. The group moved from location
to location by helicopter—Sánchez flew for most of the
day—with clothing ferried ahead by pickup. She showed
me the salt flats where winds had whipped up to 70 mph
and blew away her changing tent. (Sánchez, unfazed, had
LONE STAR shrugged and said, “Boys, turn around!”)
Sánchez on Bezos’s Indeed, Sánchez is not shy about her physique. The prow
West Texas ranch. of Koru—Maori for “new beginnings”—is adorned with a
Polo Ralph Lauren
jacket and Ralph voluptuous figurehead, one that has been gleefully suggested
Lauren Collection in the press to be carved in Sánchez’s image. “I’m very flat-
jeans. Skims top. tered, but it’s not,” said Sánchez. In fact, the figurehead is
Thomas Coriz cuffs.
one of Bezos’s favorite mythological figures, Freyja, Norse
goddess of love, fertility, war, and gold. “If it was me…”
Sánchez joked, and made a gesture of having larger breasts.
Much has been made of Bezos’s evolution f rom
round-shouldered online bookseller to Tony Stark titan of
captioning the photo “Is it just me, or is it hot outside?”; industry and the third richest man in the world. Once insu-
the couple flanked by security and a group of Koru guests, lar and press-shy, he formed a tight cocoon around Amazon,
including Usher and Katy Perry, strolling the old city his then wife, MacKenzie, and their four children in Seattle.
streets of Dubrovnik; the at-sea engagement party where Now it’s as if he’s emerged from his chrysalis, a swole mon-
Leonardo DiCaprio, Bill Gates, and Queen Rania of Jor- arch, no longer Amazon CEO (a role he ceded in 2021) but
dan all fêted Bezos and Sánchez, the latter presiding in a an empty nester who is venturing not only into the Adriatic
glittering silver miniskirt and crop top. but into outer space. Sánchez, by all accounts, is the perfect
Today, Sánchez is also wearing a crop top: a ribbed partner for all of it—unbridled in her enthusiasm (seven
white T-shirt with a black Fendi logo obscured by a jum- people I spoke to described her as a “force”) but also socially
ble of jewels—diamonds and good-luck charms—around adept, attentive, a diplomat of a kind. “Lauren has amazing
her neck. Our first meeting was midmorning on this intuition, almost witchy powers in that regard,” says Bezos.
102-degree day, when she popped out of a Blue Origin “She sees things that other people don’t see. She’s really very
Rivian truck at Astronaut Village, the cluster of Airstream sensitive to other people and what they’re thinking.”
167
“She’s a sparkler in Jeff ’s life,” says Barry Diller, who
with his wife, Diane von Furstenberg, are two of Bezos’s
closest friends and will host a second engagement party for
the couple at their home in Beverly Hills. “They’re very in
love with each other—they’re demonstrably in love,” he
adds. “She’s lit him up in the nicest ways. She’s a great
stimulant.”
“Since she’s been with Jeff, she is more peaceful and
more calm. She appears more herself,” says her sister, Elena
Sánchez Blair, sounding a note I heard often: that Sánchez
is delighted by her new life but resolutely the person she’s
always been—trained on her family and those she loves.
“You see her, this beautiful force all done up in ball gowns,
but the truth is most of the time we are on the couch in
sweats and yoga pants, playing Sloppy Dice or Heads Up
on our phones,” Sánchez Blair tells me.
Bezos seems the one who has changed—and that’s by his
own account. “She has really helped me put more energy
into my relationships,” he says. “She’s always encouraging
me: ‘Call your kids. Call your dad. Call your mom.’ And
she’s also just a very good role model. She keeps in touch
with people. I’ve never seen her put makeup on without
calling somebody. Usually her sister.”
Sánchez clearly adores the more extroverted Bezos.
“He’s the life of the party,” she says happily. “He’s just
extremely enthusiastic, and extremely funny. He can be
really goofy. I mean, you’ve heard him laugh, right?”
I hear this laugh often, in fact. Bezos guffaws when I ask
if he will get involved with wedding planning: “Oh, God,
no. Do I look that dumb?”
“We’re still thinking about the wedding,” says Sánchez,
“what it’s going to be. Is it going to be big? Is it going to
be overseas? We don’t know yet. We’ve only been engaged
five months!” He proposed at the start of their summer at
sea, hiding the ring under her pillow after a starlit dinner à
deux. She found it at bedtime, her makeup off. “When he
opened the box, I think I blacked out a bit,” she tells me.
Will she be taking his name? She looks at me like I
am insane. “Uh, yes, one hundred percent. I am looking
forward to being Mrs. Bezos.”
As to the responsibilities that come with being mar-
ried to one of the richest men in the world? She pauses,
careful: “I think there are a lot of opportunities that come
with that, and I take those opportunities very seriously.
We always look at each other and go, ‘We’re the team.’ So
everything’s shared.”
And the dress? “There’s so many incredible designers!”
She names Christian Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, and Val-
entino as favorites. “Once I get a minute, I’ll slow down.”
Up first, though, is Bezos’s 60th birthday party in January.
“It’s a huge birthday,” she says. “There is no slowing him
down. He works all the time.”
Bezos has begun scooping ice for our margaritas—“This
is my backup career,” he says of his dexterity behind the
bar—though he won’t be having one himself. “I have a cou-
ple more meetings.” (The day before, the FTC sued Ama-
zon for allegedly violating antitrust laws.) The cocktail
TRUE ROMANCE
“I am looking forward to being Mrs. Bezos.” Sánchez,
here with Bezos, wears a Levi’s tank top.
168
BLUE MOOD
Inside a test capsule
for New Shepard,
Blue Origin’s reusable
rocket. Sánchez is
planning an all-female
expedition for next
year. Ferragamo dress.
She found the ring
at bedtime, her makeup
off. “When Jeff
opened the box,
I think I blacked out
a bit,” she tells me
shakers are rocket-ship-shaped; Sánchez found them on

eBay. Our glasses are modeled after the Blue Origin rocket
capsule, complete with porthole-shaped etchings. Bezos
is meticulous—slow, frankly—in his bartending, exactly
measuring the amount of Milagro tequila and triple sec
and slicing the limes into perfect crescents. He wears a
black T-shirt, jeans, and cowboy boots, and tiger’s-eye and
silver-chain bracelets. “I don’t think we have salt. I was
going to give you a salted rim,” he says. “It’s a very import-
ant part of the margarita.” Within minutes an eight-ounce
deli container of salt is magically supplied by one of the
Astronaut Village team members. “Wow, there’s like a salt
genie out there!” marvels Bezos.
Sánchez notes that the Kármán Line Bar, this low-slung
ranch building turned space-themed bar named for the
boundary between Earth and space, was all Bezos’s idea.
The walls are decorated with space memorabilia, some
from Bezos’s personal collection, such as a poster of cos-
monaut Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space, and a letter
from Buzz Aldrin. There are front pages of newspapers
marking historic moments in space travel.
In January 2019, Sánchez and Bezos themselves made
front-page news when their love affair was made public in
a National Enquirer imbroglio, prompting Bezos to post a
call to arms decrying the tabloid. Since then, both Bezos
and Sánchez finalized their divorces and have looked only
forward, and upward, to space.
Sánchez tells me she was present for Blue Origin’s first THE ROAD AHEAD
crewed flight to space in 2021, with Bezos aboard. “They Victoria Beckham
were cracking jokes in the capsule,” says Sánchez, with dress. In this story:
mock incredulity. “While I’m literally crying, holding his hair, Chris McMillan;
makeup, Buster
mother.” Bezos notes the power of seeing his entire family Knight. Details, see
come out to wish him, and his brother who joined the In This Issue.
launch, goodbye at 4:30 a.m. “It’s profound,” he says. “You
get to see how loved you are by so many people.”
Sánchez had silver feather necklaces made for the whole
crew, with “Gradatim Ferociter”—step by step, ferociously,
Blue Origin’s Latin motto—engraved on the back. There launches are just adrenaline adventures for the wealthy? “Jeff
were custom baseball caps with a white feather on the front always says, ‘Building the road to space so that our children
and, over the ponytail hole, the phrase “Love you to space can build the future.’ And that’s what it’s about. Launch,
and back,” a favorite saying between Sánchez and Bezos, land, repeat, over and over so that we can figure out how to
embroidered in her lilting cursive. have reusable rockets.” She references the Wright brothers’
Sánchez herself plans to venture into space next year, barnstorming flights that allowed paying patrons joy rides
filling the capsule of the New Shepard (the name of Blue in planes so that they could practice their invention.
Origin’s reusable 60-foot suborbital rocket) with five other On our aerial tour she showed me the Bezos family
women, about whom she will say only that they will be compound—a series of sharp-cornered ranch buildings in
remarkable, and are “paving the way for women.” She Corten steel clustered around a two-story residence with
also has a forthcoming children’s book, The Fly Who Flew wide floor-to-ceiling windows, built next to a swimming
to Space, about Flynn, an insectile astronaut turned envi- pool made to appear like a pond with rocky banks. This
ronmentalist. What does she say to people who think the is where everyone gathers for Thanksgiving—30-plus
172
P RODUC ED BY A L ST UDIO. S ET D ESIG N: M ARY H OWA RD.
family and friends. There’s Bezos’s kids and relatives, and finishing his last semester at Boulder remotely while living
last year Sánchez invited her ex, former NFL tight end with his girlfriend in Manhattan’s Lower East Side and
Tony Gonzalez, father to her eldest, Nikko, 22 (she also working at social club Zero Bond. “Everyone really just
has two children, Evan, 17, and Ella, 15, from her marriage gets along,” he adds. “There’s no real alliances. It’s kind of
to Endeavor executive chairman Patrick Whitesell), and boring in that way.”
Gonzalez’s wife, October (Tobie), and their kids. All are “Our lives are pretty normal,” is how Sánchez puts it.
close; Sánchez describes Gonzalez and Tobie as two of her “Daily life mostly revolves around our kids.” Her arrange-
best friends. “We know how to modern family,” says Sán- ment with Whitesell means she and Bezos spend alter-
chez Blair, her sister, who also came with her three children. nating weeks with Evan and Ella in LA, where both are
Sánchez had chaps and Western jackets made for every- in school, and then at Bezos’s Tudor mansion on Lake
one for a horseback camping trip, and evenings were filled Washington. Bezos’s kids, four in all, are now at college,
with games of Catan and chess. “It’s hard to beat Jeff at so there are university visits layered in too. Wherever they
chess,” says Nikko, when I speak to him by phone. He is are, there’s the same agreement: C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 1 8 8
173
PAST LIVES
A love of all things romantically faded and careworn inspired Alessandro
Michele to turn a grand Roman apartment into his home, one teeming
with centuries of history. By Chiara Barzini. Photographed by François Halard.
FORMAL STUDIES
An elaborate oak-
branch-shaped
chandelier hangs in the
second living room of
Alessandro Michele’s
sprawling Roman
apartment. OPPOSITE
PAGE: A mantelpiece
crowded with pottery
warms up an entryway.
Sittings Editor:
Gianluca Longo.
lessandro Michele of anarchist friends before moving
A
looks for a home in on. Rome has always been the back-
every city he visits, drop for his adventures, for walks to
entertaining roman- the center, to Babylonia and Dakota,
tic visions for himself, two long-lost avant-garde warehouses
and often follow- that blasted deafening techno and
ing up on them. He has a particular sold refurbished or painted Converse
love for faded beauties, run-down All Stars, Palladium sneakers, as
places brimming with history and well as Indian silk scarves, heavy-
lost grandeur—and this is why he has metal jewelry, fishnets, and industrial
embarked on the quixotic endeavor punk clothing. Outsiders from all
of renovating one of the most iconic parts of Rome flocked to these safe
and mysterious buildings in Rome: havens, gathering to shop, listen to
Palazzo Scapucci. music, and share ideas.
As a teenager in the early ’90s, Ales- Alessandro’s uncle had a studio
sandro strolled the Eternal City with restoring antique furniture tucked
a solitary, focused look. Bright green in the gardens of Via Margutta, and
hair held up in a mohawk, he was the there Alessandro would smell the glue
WORK IN PROGRESS only punk kid in his neighborhood. and mastic and dream of the past
Michele in front of a Merely standing at the bus stop was lives of tables and armchairs. He also
cabinet filled with some
of his collected objets,
an adventure. He attended a conserva- spent hours in the Villa Giulia, the
including old pharmacy tive high school in the bourgeois and Renaissance palace that houses the
bottles and antique Italian old-fashioned Quartiere Trieste— National Etruscan Museum, immers-
porcelain. OPPOSITE: A and nevertheless fell in with a group ing himself in its gardens, exploring
late-18th-century portrait
and two late-19th-century
chairs in petit point.
177
MAGNIFICENT
OBSESSIONS
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:
A 16th-century
portrait by the Master
of the Countess of
Warwick; the Delft
tile–clad kitchen;
Michele’s stately,
art-filled dining room.
objects, art, books—and obviously restoration team on an 800-year-old

clothes. So much of the way in which home counts as a break.
he revolutionized Gucci over his Palazzo Scapucci is one of the few
nearly eight-year run as creative direc- buildings in Rome with its very own
tor had to do with a guileless disposi- medieval tower (where, in the 11th
tion toward untold stories, incursions century, Saint Ottone Frangipane
into the past lives of ancient artifacts, was supposedly born). In the 1400s,
monuments, and people. the surrounding structures functioned
“I am a doctor for injured, dilap- as a convent belonging to Pope Six-
idated homes,” he tells me. “I buy tus IV (during the restoration, Ales-
places I think might need me, that sandro found original papal coats of
have either been defaced or aban- arms from the late 1400s engraved in
pre-Roman antiquity and terra-cotta doned.” Alessandro and I are sitting in the high beams). More than a century
funerary monuments. While his peers the renovated piano nobile apartment later the entire property passed on to
were out late at raves, and gathering of the palazzo, he on a petroleum blue the wealthy Scapucci family who are
in the central piazzas for the infa- Tudor-era velvet armchair, lush dark linked to a legend told by Nathaniel
mous aperitivo tradition, Alessandro braids framing his face. Some eight Hawthorne in his Passages from the
was looking up at roofs and domes, months after his exit from Gucci he French and Italian Notebooks, from
waiting for buildings to speak to him. has the calm, collected expression of 1871. As the legend goes, the Sca-
“Rome,” he says, “bewitches you. It someone who had seen it all and done puccis had a beloved pet monkey who
welcomes everyone in a disheveled it all and is happy to take a breather— became unbearably jealous when their
way.” That fascination transferred to though I am not sure working with a first child was born—so much so that
178
“The 800 years of these walls are right now to me,”
says Michele. “For this reason I am not nostalgic.
Everyone leaves strong traces behind”
OBJECTS OF WONDER happened: The monkey returned

ABOVE: A side table with—among other the baby and the light at the top of the
things—Attic, Apulian, Etruscan, and tower has been burning since.
Delft vases, Staffordshire porcelain dogs,
and a terra-cotta ox. LEFT: Michele’s As Alessandro tells me this story, he
handsomely appointed wardrobe. moves his hands in the air, flashing his
array of antique gold rings in space.
she snatched the baby from the crib To him such history is constantly with
and escaped to the top of the tower, us. “I’m not convinced time passes as
refusing to come back down. The the calendar or the clock describes it,”
father panicked and, as we tend to do he says. “The 800 years of these walls
in Italy during any moment of crisis, are right now to me. For this reason
invoked the Virgin Mary, promising I am not nostalgic. I’m never really
that if the baby were saved, he would convinced that people who are no
keep an oil lamp perpetually lit in longer alive are gone. Everyone leaves
the tower in her honor. The miracle strong traces behind.”
179
lessandro’s father was When Alessandro first came to see Alessandro spent hours on the scaffolds.
A
a subversive free spir- the apartment in the Palazzo Sca- “I became friends with every centime-
it who frowned upon pucci, it was a dark, illogical place, ter of that ceiling,” he says, and laughs,
the idea of ownership. with low Styrofoam ceilings and no “though I probably gave the resto-
He was part of the allure. “Every hall was filled with ration team a nervous breakdown too.”
occupation commit- crammed rooms that opened onto Lazy church bells ring in the dis-
tee of Lotta Continua, the 1970s far- more crammed rooms and small tance. We have lost track of time
left political movement that fought to windows, but I kept coming back and talking about ghosts and discoveries,
give housing to working families who observing from the sidewalk. When but now it is time for a tour. “Are you
couldn’t afford rent. “He had strong I fall in love, I don’t court houses, I sure you’re ready?” Alessandro asked
political beliefs, but also loved nature,” stalk them.” He met the owners, three with a grin. His dogs, Bosco and Orso,
Alessandro says. “I’d say he was a pagan perfectly bizarre Roman characters: wag their tails.
spirit, almost an animist. He would an uncle, a nephew, and an accoun-
take us to the mountains and make us tant who used the apartment as an In a second living room hang a pair
sit and listen. ‘You talk too much, be office, and something of a hideaway of oak-branch-shaped chandeliers.
quiet,’ he’d say. ‘Listen to the “I never light my chande-
wind passing over the leaves. liers,” he says. “I use them
That is God.’” When Ales- as furniture pieces. I like
sandro’s family found they to see them in space.” The
could no longer afford their luminous kitchen, the
house, they moved to squat- heart of any Italian home,
ted homes occupied by Lot- is flooded with midday
ta Continua in the northern Roman sunlight, irradi-
end of Rome—a formative ating Alessandro’s beau-
period for Alessandro. tiful collection of Dutch
But the stray life came at Delft tiles and ancient
a high cost, especially for wood-and-glass cabinets.
his mother, who had a less A flight of marble steps
radical vision of the world. brings us to a work studio
“We shared our space with and library, tucked in the
families we didn’t know,” iconic medieval monkey
remembers Alessandro. tower: “the most beautiful
“ That ’s where I got my room in the house,” Ales-
first big life training, where sandro says. Lately he’s
I learned the art of obser- been sneaking in here and
vation and developed a pulling poetry books from
real interest in people.” He the shelves. It’s a kind of
watched strangers coming meditation as he ponders
and going at odd hours of his next steps and his own
the night, and when adults suspended moment. “It’s
spoke, he sat in a corner obvious I need oxygen
and listened. “There were now and it’s ironic that
THROUGH AND THROUGH
prostitutes, drug dealers, in reading all these poet-
Ancient straw baskets and a late-18th-century Tuscan mirror.
poor mothers who had been OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Another view of the kitchen; ry collections, I became
kicked out of their prior the largest living room; a collection of vases, painted copper so interested in the white
homes. Extraordinary hu- plants, and figurines from the same space; a guest bathroom. space on the page and
man beings with extraordi- what it reveals about the
nary faces. So I know how important for friends. “It already had this karma words that inhabit it.” He gives me a
it is when someone takes you in.” It’s of belonging to multiple people,” he mischievous grin. “Look at this,” he
no coincidence he has chosen to live says. “It was a place for communal says and opens a hidden passageway
across the street from the Baroque living.” Alessandro knew buying the in the bookcase, the kind of revolv-
church of Sant’Antonio dei Portoghe- house would be a huge undertaking, ing library door kids dream about.
si, which emerged out of a hospice for but ultimately decided to go for it. The original building came equipped
Portuguese pilgrims, a place for charity One of the many incredible things with many such vaults and portals,
and restoration. He also plans to offer that happened in the work that fol- and Alessandro has taken advantage
residencies for artists in his country lowed was the discovery of the original of them. Another vault, he explains,
home (in the magical Etruscan area of roof beneath the suspended ceiling. It is hidden in his wardrobe (my favor-
northern Lazio) and when he was at was filled with engravings, frescoes, ite room as it features its own bath-
Gucci, his desk was a stopping point those papal insignias, fleurs-de-lis of tub and a balustrade, and is filled with
for many globe-trotting creatives who the kings of France, and a shield with glass doors decorated with prints and
wanted to share ideas. the symbol of the Della Rovere family. textiles Alessandro designed himself ).
180
181
PATTERN RECOGNITION
ABOVE: A sidelong view of the second living room, with its matching chandeliers.
OPPOSITE: The bedroom, where an old Venetian door frame now functions
as a splendid headboard. In this story: hair, Carmen Di Marco and Mimmo Laserra;
makeup, Tanja Friscic. Details, see In This Issue.
We cross through the dining room, than Alessandro can show me. “It’s
where the table is piled with pens never-ending,” he says as we make
and books, including a thick anthol- our way out to the terrace, and the
ogy by the late poet and musicologist Sant’Antonio dei Portoghesi’s organ,
Amelia Rosselli. Then to the bed- the most ancient in Rome, fills the
room, with a beautiful Venetian door air. Through the leaves of the lush
frame he’s reworked and adapted as plants, rose bushes, and banana trees,
a headboard. Next is Alessandro’s we catch glimpses of passersby on
studio, accessible via a series of cor- the streets below.
ridors, which is a work in progress, Alessandro is a nightwalker, a detail
populated by boxes and perfectly that I find incredibly romantic, but he
organized archives of things like old also likes to get lost in the city during
Indian glass paintings and mario- the day. It’s just a little more compli-
nettes. Alessandro lifts a ladle out of cated because he lives in a crowded
nowhere. “It’s crazy, I started open- neighborhood and people recognize
ing boxes the other day and found him constantly. So he puts on a base-
this ladle collection. I can’t believe ball cap and sunglasses as we go for a
how many of them I have.” We climb coffee at the iconic bar Sant’Eustachio,
several stairs and past more rooms serving what C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 1 9 1
182
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185
GOODBYE, VOGUE HOUSE! Robin Muir in the bound volumes; Julie Christie
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 74 It’s 1984, and I’m wheeling a trolley researched costumes; Jasper Conran
fashion editors’ room (her ebullience piled high with magazines and newspa- made a purple moiré maquette of Cecil
distracted the other editors, who pers around the seven floors of Vogue Beaton drawings; more recently, Kate
placed her as far away as possible). I House—from the warren of basement Winslet studied for her new biopic
would start organizing what we were storage to the hidden rooftop garden about Lee Miller, Vogue heroine and war
going to do that day (I loved making where fashionistas would sunbathe in correspondent. We never quite knew
lists, still do) and composing faxes their underwear. what Terence Stamp was doing there,
for Issie to send to designers whom It was—and remains—a monolithic but he was charming.
she wanted to meet or borrow clothes slab of a building, completed in 1958, And here we are. The library has
from. Invariably, the phone would ring its name chiseled in gold above the cele- already moved its valuable hoard to a new
about 11, with Issie on the line saying, brated revolving doors. Back then, those base in South London, and next spring
“Darling—could you come round to who risked the unreliable lifts seldom Vogue House will close its revolving
Elizabeth Street? Had too much gin ventured forth without hat, gloves, and doors for the last time, the lifts will fall
last night.” I’d grab a black cab, head hair that would withstand a nuclear blast. silent, and the caravan will move on to
over to Belgravia, sit by Issie’s narrow By 1988, it was wafer-thin girls dressed another Art Deco building, the Adelphi,
four-poster taking notes, and spend the head-to-toe in black and teetering on on the Thames Embankment. It’s been
rest of the day executing her wishes. vertiginous heels. At its zenith, Vogue quite a run—and one hell of a party. @
All the young talent came to see Issie House held nearly a thousand staffers—
in Vogue House—everyone from Hus- we couldn’t keep up with their names as RAISING HER GAME
sein Chalayan to Bella Freud, Alexander we scribbled them down on copies of CONTINUED FROM PAGE 142
McQueen to Stella Tennant, and Sophie obscure French hairdressing magazines. candidly for the first time about some
Dahl to Tim Walker. One year, when I I was lucky to get in at all: “A very weak of his teammates and rivals—taking
needed something to wear to the Vogue O,” declared the personnel director, Miss full advantage, it seemed to her, of
Christmas party at San Lorenzo, Alex- Timms, holding up my application letter the impunity that attends retirement.
ander McQueen made me a black lace as if it were dusted in nerve agent. She’d “I realized that Jordan made the right
punky dress. He charged me 70 pounds been a cryptographer at Bletchley Park. decision by biting his tongue earlier,
cash (he didn’t have a bank account yet) You never knew who you might when he was in the game,” she says. “If
and brought it to the office. When I glimpse: Linda! Naomi! Kate! (Or, more I could go back and maybe save some of
went to try it on in the bathroom, he recently, Adwoa! Precious! Adut!) George those things I said for later, like Jordan
followed me in with a pair of scissors Michael and Boy George, or Taylor did, yes. Maybe I would have. Maybe I
and shredded the hem. I’ll never forget Swift and Little Simz; Juliette Binoche, should have. I don’t know.” She pauses
Hussein arriving with a dress covered or Zendaya, or any number of royals. By and rolls her head back. “Most people
in soil: He’d buried his first collection some strange divination, the paparazzi don’t want to hear you talking all day
before he showed it. But this was the outside always knew when Diana, Prin- anyway. People want the art you offer.
sort of thing young designers did then, cess of Wales, would arrive. Those eye- Somehow now I look back, and I think
and it was a thrill to see their careers go lashes batted wildly as she swept down about the things that I used to care
stratospheric in a very few years. the fifth-floor corridor, sparkling. about, the things that used to ruin my
I soon became a fashion writer, with Peak flirt was reached with Nicholas day, and I can’t believe I let those mis-
a large desk by a window in the features Coleridge, then the company’s new-ish cellaneous things stop me from focusing.
room. There were just four of us in the managing director: “Nicholas, please be For sure that’s progress, right?”
department and my counterpart, Laura frank, I want to know your real view:
Campbell, sat opposite, and in between Are my breasts too small, do you think?” A month later, Minaj has just returned to
noodling over articles or shoots, we Despite the ever-evolving newness of Los Angeles from New York, where she
spent about three years laughing and it all, reminders of the past were every- hosted the MTV Video Music Awards,
chatting—about dresses, shoes, parties, where. Beatrix Miller, British Vogue’s and is stealing a few hours at home before
and our (endlessly) broken hearts. Our editor f rom the 1960s to the 1980s, heading back to the studio. The newly
desks were piled high with books, notes, had started out as a stenographer at the built house, modern and vast, which she
and samples and only very occasionally Nuremberg trials, while two floors below bought last year, sits in a gated enclave in
were we ordered to tidy up. Otherwise, at House & Garden, editor Robert Har- Hidden Hills. Papa Bear seems thrilled
we drifted about in old silk nighties ling, who worked in naval intelligence to be back; he is bouncing on the white
bought at Portobello market, or dresses with Ian Fleming, was said to have been sofa in the home theater or crawling
from vintage shops worn with Mano- the inspiration for James Bond. through the hallway, and Minaj crawls
los acquired at sample sales, and went Inside, the basement archive was after him, both of them laughing the
round to each other’s houses for sup- Bunny’s fiefdom. She had been a model whole way. She has little time at home
per at night, too poor to afford restau- in the ’50s before becoming Vogue’s these days, but a mini recording studio in
rants. We thought we worked hard, receptionist, and possessed enough the guesthouse helps. Minaj has become
but in reality things were positively residual hauteur to freeze the uninvited a better cook than she ever thought she
laissez-faire: In summer we would take in their tracks. Library was too grand a would be, and she finds a kind of solace
long lunch breaks lying on the grass term for what had been, until recently, in making dinner for her family (Trini-
in the sunshine in Hanover Square; a large cupboard into which random dadian stewed king fish or spicy sausage
then there would be cups of tea at four detritus had been thrown. Happily, pasta for the grown-ups, yellow rice for
o’clock, followed by the realization that this included magazines, photographs, her son, who is, for now, repulsed by his
it was already five o’clock—which, in and fashion illustrations, though noth- mother’s more highly seasoned dishes).
England at the time, meant the day was ing f rom before 1942—all of that “Cooking actually makes me more calm,”
over. And the day really was over: There had been pulped for the war effort. she says. Minaj is happier than she has
were no phones to follow us home, no Still, Stellas McCartney and Tennant, been in the past, and she credits no magic
fashion shows to watch online, no email Bella Freud, Philip Treacy, and Alber pill or self-help book or guru but simply a
to deal with later. Elbaz all popped in to find inspiration shift in perspective.

“When you look around and try to false realities, comparing themselves,” differently. “I think of her more like the
keep yourself in a grateful f rame of she says. “I’ve seen artists gone way too Superman suit, like who you change into
mind,” she explains, “the things that soon, and I wonder if that could have when you go into the telephone booth,”
you can be thankful for seem to start been avoided if they’d just had the she explains. “They’re completely differ-
adding up, and you realize that in the chance to talk about what they were ent entities.” Recently she and her hus-
big scheme of things, most of the stuff going through.” band tried out a nanny for the first time,
you would have complained about is A foray into COVID policy has likely and Minaj remembers telling a couple
so trivial. It’s been a constant race. But been Minaj’s greatest public misstep, of her girlfriends about an incident that
then you stop and realize, there’s noth- though she may not view it that way. In occurred in which Papa Bear, who she
ing to run around for. That’s the thing a 2021 tweet she urged her fans to do says gets his dance moves from his father,
that’s changed in me. It’s not that I’ve research of their own into the vaccine had a fall. Minaj’s initial reaction was
taken these amazing steps. It’s just about after the friend of a cousin of hers in that the nanny ought to have been there
finally being happy with who you are as Trinidad allegedly became impotent fol- to catch him. And she told her friends
opposed to where you are.” lowing vaccination. She was swiftly crit- how the nanny, with the conviction of
Minaj has been thinking about how icized by fans, peers, and members of the a seasoned surrogate parent, corrected
she might make the best use of a mas- media who felt that her circumspection her, explaining that kids fall, and it’s
sive platform that has been a place for was anti-scientific and might sow distrust okay. “They all looked at me thinking
connecting with her fans and at times in health and public policy experts. Not that I was going to be out for blood!” she
for engaging in public tussles. She has chastened, exactly, Minaj maintains a remembers. “I was like, Do you all think
28 million followers on X (formerly leery independence, though she is now that Nicki Minaj is the same person I
Twitter) and nearly 10 times that many less likely to shout it from the rafters. am with my child’s nanny? As a matter
on Instagram, and yet she has always “I’m one of those people who doesn’t go of fact, I didn’t say anything.”
insisted that social media is something with a crowd,” she says. “I like to make Marc Jacobs, a fellow shape-shifter
she would swear off in a heartbeat if it my own assessment of everything with- who has had Minaj in the front row of
weren’t a necessary feature of the busi- out help from everyone.” While she has his shows over the years, appreciates the
ness of being Nicki Minaj. She has con- spoken out against police abuses of power challenge of maintaining a self that is
sistently urged her fans to stay in school and in favor of universal health care, she separate from one’s art. “It’s interesting to
and is a huge believer in higher education. has been reluctant to align herself with a see how creative people and their creative
She has been an exponent of body pos- political party. “Every time I talk about output grow and evolve at different stages
itivity since the beginning of her career, politics, people get mad. I’m sorry, but I of their lives,” he says. “I’ve had the good
vaunting her own curves and urging am not going to be told who I should get fortune of meeting some incredible per-
women of color, especially, to feel proud on social media and campaign for. There’s formers over the years, and a lot of them
of theirs. She does not pretend that this a lot we don’t know that’s going on in the say that what you see onstage or in the
has always been easy for her personally, government, and I don’t think it changes press is not who they are. When some-
by the way. “I just looked at a video that I whether you lean to the left or right.” one like Nicki reveals a different side, it
posted on Instagram when I was 25, and Of all the notions about her that have gives her a lot of depth. But it shouldn’t
I would fucking pay to look like that right permeated the public consciousness be a surprise when people mistake you
now,” she says. “But today I can say that and gone on to form a theory of Nicki for Nicki, if that’s all you’ve shown them.”
I’m at peace with who I am and how I Minaj, the one that rankles her most, Minaj plays me another track from
look. I have to say this as a Black woman, she says, is that idea that she is not nice. the new album called “Big Difference,”
though. I’ve made certain choices for Minaj has often had important messages which she wrote several years ago but
my son, to not give him sweets and to deliver—her indignation over what recently found herself falling back in
candy and juices, because of illnesses she perceived as MTV’s reluctance to love with. On the face of it, the song
like diabetes that run in our community. celebrate videos that feature anything may seem like a familiar flex: The “big
I’m not in favor of body positivity if it but slim women’s bodies, leading to a difference” is the gulf between Minaj
means unhealthy bodies. That’s bull. It’s famous feud with Miley Cyrus, comes to and other rappers, in particular those
not believable, so let’s stop pretending. mind—only to find herself policed for who come casually into the game, get
Recently I had to get a breast reduction, failing to deliver those messages in dul- lucky with a hit on TikTok, and sud-
and actually I love it. I used to want a big- cet tones. “When I hear the word mean, denly imagine that fame and clout are
ger butt, and now I look back and realize I think about the core of who the per- their right rather than the outcome of
how silly that was. So—love your curves, son is,” she explains. “I always tell people years of hard work. Minaj put in the
and love your non-curves. There’s noth- that the difference between being mean work, and if she feels you haven’t, she
ing wrong with any of it.” and being a bitch is that bitch passes. is apt to let you know it. But it’s hard
She felt rushed, after her pregnancy, Bitch comes and goes. Mean is who you to imagine that the rapper, so deliberate
to snap back into shape, and she wishes are. I could be the biggest bitch, at the with her pen, wasn’t hinting at other big
she could take this pressure off future height of my bitch-ness, but if the per- differences as well.
moms. Lately she has been wonder- son I may be cussing out at that time “You know that feeling when you
ing how to use social media to connect needs something from me, I’m going to unlock one of the secrets of life?” she
with more mothers, to exchange lessons give it to them. I have to be able to look asks. “For me the idea of accepting
and stories. “There are questions that in the mirror and be okay with myself.” what you can’t change—it just never
you can’t just google,” Minaj explains. Throughout her music career, Minaj clicked with me before. You want to
“Every day a mom has to wake up and has played with alter egos, marshaling have control over everything, but that’s
be a supermom no matter what they’re those old theater chops in the service the easiest way to be unhappy. So now,
faced with.” She would also like to bring of creating characters—the ingenue if I find myself trying to control it all, I
more attention to mental illness and, Harajuku Barbie; the hot-tempered, try to remember what’s really important.
especially, drug addiction. “It’s gotten so gay, and British Roman Zolanski, to I look in my son’s face, and my whole
easy to be alone physically, where young name just two. It’s tempting to think of soul lights up. He has no clue how
people spend 12, 16 hours a day in their Nicki Minaj herself as the über–alter ego nerve-racking it’s been for me to be a
rooms on their phones, looking at these of Onika Maraj, though she regards it mother and an artist.”
187
At home, there’s so much to fight for
and so little to fight against. In the last
few months, Papa Bear has started to
make a strange new sound. Initially his
mother couldn’t figure out what it was,
until she realized that he was learning to
ape her laugh, with its big staccato yuk-
yuks. Minaj has always had her imita-
tors, but this one is a little different. @
OUT OF THIS WORLD

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 173
“Whoever gets up first, that person
makes the other person coffee,” she
says. Bezos takes his black or with Laird
Hamilton’s superfood nondairy creamer,
in a self-warming Ember mug. Sánchez
uses a mug Bezos got her from Ama-
zon, with the words “Woke up sexy as
hell again” splashed across the side.
“We try not to get on our phones
right away,” Sánchez says. “That’s what
I’m working on.” They’re also trying
to journal in the morning, per von
Furstenberg’s instruction. “We’re not
quite there,” admits Sánchez. “We’ll
do it, like, three days a week.”
Sánchez likes to drive her daughter to
school. The ritual includes Bezos call-
ing out to Ella before they leave, “Don’t
learn anything I wouldn’t learn!”—a
line that has become so dependable that
the teenager now finishes it for him.
“Sometimes we tussle,” Sánchez says of
the school runs. “Other times she really
opens up, and other times she says noth-
ing and I take it in.” In the evening, after
tutoring and piano lessons, the family
eats dinner together. “Every night.”
Sánchez and Bezos also work out
together: “But we cannot do the same
exercises. He’s on a whole different
level than I am. He is a monster in
the gym.” Bedtime is 9:30 p.m. with
a bit of TV (recently Black Bird, about
an incarcerated serial killer, as well as
Citadel, Jack Ryan, and Black Mirror).
Sánchez is also a big audiobook fan—
she’s deep into Chop Wood Carry Water:
How to Fall in Love with the Process of
Becoming Great. And both cook too.
On the weekends Bezos makes churros
in his deep fryer, a recipe passed down
from his Cuban grandfather. “Abuelo
made churros whenever we were with
him,” says Bezos.
“Okay, but who makes the best
breakfast?” asks Sánchez.
“That’s, like, a leading question,”
says Bezos with a laugh before dutifully
answering that Sánchez does: fried
eggs on flour tortillas with New Mexi-
can green chile that Sánchez learned to
make from her own grandmother.
Saturday family movie nights are a
tradition. The week we meet they’d just
enacted their own version of Barben-
heimer with Oppenheimer screened Sat-
urday night and Barbie on Sunday. “Of
course, Jeff ’s favorite movie was Oppen- cute!” says Kardashian. Instead, Kering
heimer, and I love Barbie. And there you offered to make two dresses, and both
have us summed up in two movies.” women paid $200,000 and will travel to
Like Barbie, Sánchez has no chill— Paris together for the fitting. “Lauren
as her teenagers might say. This suits and I are always sending DMs building
her: She giddily points things out, call- each other up,” Kardashian says. “Every
ing everything magical then laughing time there’s a look that we like, she’ll
at herself for doing so. “I say magical a say, ‘WOW,’ or, ‘OMG you look amaz-
lot, don’t I?” she says with a big smile. ing.’ She’s such a girl’s girl.”
“I think one of her greatest qualities is Kardashian was one of the two
that no matter what situation I can look dozen women at Sánchez’s 53rd birth-
over and she’s wide-eyed and like, Can day luncheon hosted by philanthropist
you believe where we are right now?” says Laura Arrillaga-Andreessen in Mal-
Tobie Gonzalez. “She’s like a little girl, ibu (complete with fondant helicop-
constant awe and giddiness.” ter cake). Bezos also threw Sánchez
“I don’t know if you’re supposed a surprise birthday dinner at Horses,
to cheer and applaud during a fash- the West Hollywood hot spot. In
ion show, but my mom was definitely his speech, Bezos said, “One thing I
doing that,” says Nikko, who attended learned about Lauren is if I’m in a bind,
the recent Staud show at the Plaza I can throw the gun to her.”
with her and says it reminded him of “I think I can get him out of most sit-
his high school football games, where uations,” says Sánchez. “I’d fly him out!”
she decked herself out in self-made For his birthday, Sánchez gave Bezos
merch with his number on it and rang a large-format photograph of the sci-
a cowbell. “There was not a single year ence fiction section at the tiny Cotulla,
she wasn’t the team mom,” says Nikko. Texas, library. This is where Bezos
“I’m extremely enthusiastic,” Sán- spent his childhood summers reading
chez admits with a shrug. Staud Asimov and Heinlein—an experience
designer Sarah Staudinger, wife of that inspired his lifelong fascination
Ari Emanuel, Whitesell’s partner at with space. “She’s a good gift giver,” he
Endeavor, is a friend who was one of says. “She puts a lot of thought into it.”
the inner circle at her Koru engagement Her giving has taken on ne w
party. For the Fashion Week event, dimensions since she met Bezos. She’s
Sánchez wore a Staud black minidress particularly focused on the environ-
to her show, embroidered with jet bugle mental work of the Bezos Earth Fund,
beads and a silver constellation pattern a $10 billion commitment to climate
(her fiancé’s love of space shared across solutions; the Bezos Academy, a net-
many mediums). work of tuition-free preschools; and
Does she dress for Jeff? “I always the Courage & Civility Award, which
found it interesting that people say, donates $100 million to an individual
‘Well, Lauren, you definitely dress more to disburse at their discretion. “Lauren
for men.’ I actually dress for myself.” wakes up thinking about how to help
“But it works for Jeff,” Bezos adds people,” says Elsa Collins, cofounder
with a wry smile. of This Is About Humanity, an orga-
She cites Salma Hayek and Amal nization supporting separated and
Clooney as style inspirations. “Why? reunified families at the US-Mexico
Because they dress for who they are, border, which recently received $1 mil-
and that authenticity, I think, comes lion f rom Sánchez. Collins counts
through.” A shimmering Dolce & Sánchez as a close friend (they have a
Gabbana halter column she wore to pickleball crew) and describes how in
a recent Caring for Women event felt “deep COVID” Sánchez called her at
exactly right: “I really think I am com- 6:20 a.m. wanting to help.
ing into who I am and I know what In August, Sánchez drove to Tijuana
feels good,” she says. Call her effect with her three kids to chop zucchini in
exuberant luxury—a reminder that not the relief kitchen and hand out back-
every wealthy woman need swaddle packs filled with toys and necessities
herself in The Row. labeled by age and gender. One five-
At that dinner, put on by the Kering year-old girl took out a toy purse and
Foundation during New York Fashion gave it back to Sánchez to thank her.
Week, Sánchez found herself bid- The story makes Sánchez tear up. “I
ding for Balenciaga couture against think when you give back it encourages
her friend Kim Kardashian. “I’m a big someone else to give back. It’s a really
auction girl,” says Kardashian, “and my incredible loop.” Later Nikko sent her
strategy was to come in last minute.” a text: “Mom I just want you to know
Realizing her rival was Sánchez, Kar- I’m proud of you.”
dashian called across the room—“We’ll Sánchez’s kids are also invested in the
share it!”—meaning they could take Earth Fund. She says she recently got
turns with one dress. “I thought, you them excited by discussing the Earth
wear it once, I’ll wear it once, it’ll be so Fund’s investment in methane-free
VOGUE.COM DECEMBER 2023 189

cows, as well as a $400 million program in Albuquerque (she and Bezos each home for school pickup. In the early
that seeks to add green space to urban giddily tell me they were born at the years she would take Nikko to work
centers that have grown hotter due to same hospital six years apart). Sánchez with her, just as her grandmother did.
lack of shade canopy. recalls her grandmother, who worked “Growing up it did feel like it was me
“It’s inspiring for our staff to see that two jobs, loading her into her Ford and her against the world,” says Nikko.
level of interest,” says Andrew Steer, Marquis at 5 a.m. and driving to clean Kris Jenner remembers Sánchez as
the Earth Fund’s president and CEO. houses while young Sánchez slept in the face of her news when she would
“She’s involved in the nitty-gritty.” Sán- the backseat. Sánchez would then get have her coffee in the morning. She
chez and Bezos recently hosted a retreat dressed for school in the bathroom of then met Sánchez when she and her
for key staff at their Malibu home. “We the restaurant where her grandmother then husband were peddling their
really want to do the most we can with was the manager. Her parents sepa- “Superfit with Kris and Bruce Jenner”
the dollars that we put into things,” says rated when she was young. Her father line of stair-climbers. They were rein-
Sánchez. “It’s not about just giving the is a pilot and mechanic who owned a troduced a few years ago by LA super-
money away. It’s about being involved.” flight school; her mother, who also had connector Michael Kives over dinner at
Of the 2024 recipient of the Courage a pilot’s license, worked for the city of Bezos’s estate in Beverly Hills.
& Civility Award (in the past it’s gone Albuquerque. Sánchez says she “got “We know they will be in our lives
to Dolly Parton, Van Jones, and José lost in the school system” due to undi- forever,” says Jenner, who with part-
Andrés), Sánchez will only say, “It’s agnosed dyslexia, and her grandmother ner Corey Gamble enjoys date nights
really exciting, we’re narrowing it down. saw her struggling and taught her what with the soon-to-be Bezoses, such as
We can’t announce who it is yet, but this she thought she needed to know: how to attending Coachella last April and,
is something very close to our hearts.” cook, how to clean a house, and how to more recently, the Beyoncé Renaissance
Sánchez is undaunted by the question sew. Unable to afford department store World Tour birthday concert with their
of how she reconciles her own carbon dresses, Sánchez made her own clothes, kids, including Kim and Khloé and
footprint with her environmental work. including her red puff-sleeve prom North West, and Sánchez’s teenagers.
“I think Jeff and I really are focusing on dress. “So fashion has always been a fun Jenner says Sánchez knew the words
the long-term commitment to climate, thing for me.” to every song.
and we’re extremely optimistic about it. At 19, Sánchez enrolled in El Camino “She’ll make sure everyone is up to
Ten billion is just the beginning.” She College, where her broadcast journalism speed about what’s happening in the
says they also use green aviation fuel professor, Lori Medigovich, helped her world,” says Jenner, noting Sánchez
when possible and that Koru can sail get a handle on her dyslexia. “I’ve taught recently sent an article about the Maui
using only wind power. “We’ve done it thousands of students, but Lauren was wildfires to their group text ( Jenner
and it is magical.” memorable because she seemed so declined to name its members). Bezos
“This is the most important work driven. Lauren knew exactly what she and Sánchez, who also have a home on
I’ve ever done, ever,” she adds about wanted to do,” says Medigovich, who Maui, pledged $100 million to rebuild-
the philanthropic investments. She also helped Sánchez transfer to USC ing efforts. “She has more energy than I
was honored for them at a This Is on a scholarship. “She literally changed do, which is really annoying,” says Jenner.
About Humanity gala at the end of the trajectory of my life,” says Sánchez, I witnessed this after Sánchez landed
the summer, an event that acted as a tearing up again. “By the way, I never the helicopter on the side of the Sierra
back-to-school mixer for Hollywood’s used to cry. This is him. I blame you.” Diablo mountains and we descended
social worlds and cemented Sánchez, “I made her vulnerable and soft,” says into the mouth of a cliff to explore the
in a clinging red knit dress, as a face Bezos with more than a hint of pride. 10,000 Year Clock. “I think we should
of philanthropy in Los Angeles. “As a Sánchez’s most high profile gig in go to the bottom, right?” she said. “We
little girl I never thought I would be her TV career was with Good Day LA can handle it, but it’s a workout.” It took
up here,” Sánchez said in her speech. on Fox 11, which she co-hosted for six over a year to drill 500 feet into solid
She went on to recount her childhood years, waking up at 4:30 a.m. and being limestone and quartz and two years
In This Issue
929-DIOR for hawesandcurtis.co.uk. schouler.com. Lié
information. On Daing: Boss tie. On Wood: Studio earring;
corset and dress; fendi jacket, cardigan, and lie-studio.com. Cuff;
.com for information. skirt; erdem.com. select Tiffany & Co.
74: Top left photo: On Maria La Rosa socks; boutiques. Manicurist:
Fawole: jacket, skirt, and Bergdorf Goodman. Alex Jachno using
Table of Contents: Goodbye, Vogue boots; stellamccartney Roger Vivier shoes; Dior Vernis. Tailor:
34: Jumpsuit; wrangler House!: 70: Bottom .com. Top right photo: rogervivier.com. Jessica Hasmik Kourinian.
.com. Manicurist: right photo: On Quenby: On Claire: top and skirt; McCormack bracelet
Tom Bachik. Tailor: Kyle jacket, skirt, and apple emiliawickstead.com. and ring; jessica RAISING HER
Kasabuske and Jen accessory; Maison Shirt from With Nothing mccormack.com. On GAME
Hebner at Carol Ai Schiaparelli, 21 Place Underneath; with Abdi: jacket and skirt; 134–135: Blazer and
Studio. Cover Look: 42: Vendôme 75001 Paris. nothingunderneath richardquinn.com. pants; bergdorf
Dress; +33 155-351- On Norman: dress; .com. Vaincourt Erdem sweater; erdem goodman.com.
600 for information. (800) 929-DIOR for Paris belt; Bergdorf .com. Bottom left photo: Earrings; toryburch
Earrings; ireneneuwirth information. On Goodman. Manolo On Fawole: sweater and .com. 137: Sweater,
.com. Manicurist: Newman: jacket and Blahnik shoes; manolo pants; jwanderson.com. briefs, and earrings;
Dawn Sterling. Tailor: miniskirt; Maison blahnik.com. Fernando On Smith: sweater, ferragamo.com.
Cha Cha Zutic. Schiaparelli, 21 Place Jorge ring; fernando skirt, sunglasses, shoes, Vex Latex headband;
Contributors: 64: Top Vendôme 75001 jorge.co.uk. On Ahmed: and ring; loewe.com. vexclothing.com.
left photo: dress; select Paris. On Ruea: dress suit; paulsmith.com. The Play’s the Thing: Calzedonia tights;
Louis Vuitton boutiques. and earring; (800) Hawes & Curtis shirt; 80: Dress; proenza calzedonia.com.

for a diamond-cutting robot to slice PAST LIVES he laughs. And this prompts another
stairs into the stone. Inside, enormous CONTINUED FROM PAGE 182 reverie as we wind our way back to the
titanium and stainless gears looked is widely known as the best espresso Palazzo Scapucci: “Rome has been here
like giant versions of the inside of my in the world, and talk about his love of thousands of years,” he says. “Soon
wristwatch and led down to a 10,000 film and theater. Alessandro watches we won’t be here, but she will. Rome
pound bronze-cased concrete pendu- only a few films a year, “but they are seduces you, and warns you: ‘Being with
lum. “Wouldn’t it be cool to have a Hal- all extremely meaningful to me,” he me is tough. I may look beautiful, but
loween party here?” Sánchez said. says. We stroll—at a slow pace, zoning I’m exhausting. I don’t work and I will
Bezos later explains that there are out in front of bookshops and old the- make your life impossible.’ That gives
five metal anniversary displays that will aters. “Look at this,” he says, pointing me the right perspective.” @
function like traditional cuckoo clocks to the Mannerist façade of the church Statement Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685 showing the Ownership,
chiming at one year, 10 years, 100 years, of Sant’Andrea della Valle. “Rome is Management and Circulation of Vogue, published Monthly, except for
a combined issue in Jan/Feb & June/July (10 issues) for October 1, 2023.
1,000 years, and 10,000 years. “The a city of safe little pockets right in the Publication No. 489-270. Annual subscription price 22.
1. Location of known office of Publication is One World Trade Center,
whole point of the clock,” explains middle of chaos.” As we cross the Corso New York, NY 10007.
2. Location of the Headquarters or General Business Offices of the
Bezos, “is after a few hundred years, like Vittorio, a Roman driver honks violently Publisher is One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
3. The names and addresses of the Publisher, Editor and Managing
all old things, it will take on a certain and yells at us: “Annamo un po!” (“Get Editor are: Publisher, Elizabeth Webbe Lunny, One World Trade
Center, NY, New York 10007. Editor, Anna Wintour, One World
kind of respect.” a move on!”) Alessandro laughs. “My Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Managing Editor, Cristina
Martinez , One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
4. The owner is: Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., published through
“Is that why you respect me so much?” mother would always tell me that I live its Condé Nast division, One World Trade Center, New York, NY
10007. Stockholder: Directly or indirectly through intermediate
jokes Sánchez, and they both erupt in ‘a mezz’aria,’” he says. “Mid-air.” Inside corporations to the ultimate corporate parent, Advance
Publications, Inc., 950 Fingerboard Road, Staten Island, NY 10305.
laughter. the church the light filters through large 5. Known bondholders, mortgagees and other security holders owning
or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or
“She’s dyslexic. She thinks she’s 35,” tinted windows reflecting on a mirror other securities are: None.
6. Extent and nature of circulation
says Bezos. in the center of the room, creating an Average No. Copies
each issue during
Single Issue
nearest to
Does Sánchez have any secrets for all-pervasive golden hue. Alessandro a. Total No. Copies
preceding 12 months
1,185,018
filing date
1,137,518
aging gracefully? “It’s really simple.” She comes here almost daily and still he’s b. Paid Circulation
(1) Mailed Outside-County Paid 905,907 847,443
cites the MEDS acronym—meditation, completely transfixed. “The church in Subscriptions Stated on
PS Form 3541
exercise, diet, and sleep—personally Rome is the greatest stage in the world,” (2) Mailed In-County Paid
Subscriptions Stated on
0 0
adding sunscreen to the end of it. (She he says. “I’m like a serial killer with this PS Form 3541
(3) Paid Distribution Outside the 71,593 93,151
Mails Including Sales Through
wears Summer Fridays.) place. I always come back.” Dealers and Carriers, Street
Vendors, Counter Sales, and
“I don’t ever think, Wow, I’m going to Another beloved place is the bus- Other Paid Distribution
Outside USPS®
be 54 in December and I’m getting mar- tling Campo de’ Fiori, with its market (4) Paid Distribution by Other
Classes of Mail Through
0 0
ried. It is all happening. We’re excited stands and fruit sellers, who all seem to the USPS
c. Total Paid Distribution 977,500 940,594
about the future.” know Alessandro by name. We manage d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution
(1) Free or Nominal Rate 110,567 102,816
“I think there’s an interesting thing to resist the siren call of the square’s Outside-County Copies
included on PS Form 3541
to try and do,” says Bezos thoughtfully, famous pizza bianca oven, cross through (2) Free or Nominal Rate
In-County Copies
0 0
“which is to be excited about the future Piazza Farnese, and end up sitting down included on PS Form 3541
(3) Free or Nominal Rate Copies 0 0
and to live in the present. All the future in a restaurant in the quaint Piazza della Mailed at Other Classes
Through the USPS
(4) Free or Nominal Rate 4,614 5,538
is built right here, in this moment.” Quercia, with its brave, lonely oak tree Distribution Outside the Mail
e. Total Free or Nominal Rate 115,181 108,354
Sánchez lifts off the bar stool. “Okay, at the center. Alessandro dreamily Distribution
f. Total Distribution 1,092,681 1,048,948
shall we?” points to the old Roman mercantile area g. Copies not Distributed
h. Total
92,337
1,185,018
88,570
1,137,518
“Let’s do it,” says Bezos, threading his near the Tiber, and to Palazzo Spada, i. Percent Paid
j. Paid Electronic Copies
89.46%
175,801
89.67%
182,330
hand in Sánchez’s. another place he likes to go to for inspi- k. Total Paid Print Copies(line 15c)
+Paid Electronic Copies
1,153,301 1,122,924
“But you have to fly us home,” she ration. After lunch, still in dreamy mid- l. Total Print Distribution (Line 15f)
+ Paid Electronic Copies
1,268,482 1,231,278
says with a giggle. air mode, he leaves his wallet behind on m.Percent Paid(Both Print &
Electronic Copies)
90.92% 91.20%
Bezos leads her toward the helicopter the table and we are chased down the 7. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and
complete. (Signed) Eunice Chi, Executive Director, Global
outside. “I can do that.” @ street by a kind tourist. “See how I am?” Consumer Revenue
138–139: Trench coat Sterling. Tailor: Cha prada.com. Tailor: THE GET Chanel boutiques.
AUT H ORIZ E D STORE, T H E BUYE R TAKES A RIS K AND S HOU LD USE CAUT ION
A WORD A BOU T D I SCOU NTE RS W H ILE VO GU E T H OROUGH LY R ESE ARC HES
and shirt; bottegaveneta Cha Zutic. Hailey Desjardins. 184–185: 2. Earrings, 205: Slipper; select
T H E COM PANIES M ENT IONED IN ITS PAG ES, W E CANNOT GUARANTEE THE
AUT H ENT IC IT Y OF M ERC HA NDISE SOLD BY DISCOUNT ERS. AS IS ALWAYS
T H E CAS E IN PURC H ASING A N IT EM F ROM ANYW HER E OT HE R T HAN TH E
.com for information. price upon request. Louis Vuitton boutiques.

Hat; (212) 629-1090 for PEOPLE IN OUT OF THIS 4. Suitcase, $3,625 206: Clutch; fendi.com
information. Tory THE SUN WORLD for similar styles. for information.
Burch sunglasses; 145: Prada shoes; 164: Dress; select 5. Watch, $8,900.
toryburch.com. prada.com. 146–147: Dolce & Gabbana 7. Backgammon set,
Ferragamo earrings; On Johnson: Tom Ford boutiques. Paris Texas $7,350. 9. Bag,
ferragamo.com. coat. Ralph Lauren mule; paristexasbrand price upon request.
140: On Minaj: jacket, Purple Label turtleneck .com. 166: Jacket
hoodie, and pants; sweater; ralphlauren and jeans; ralphlauren LAST LOOK CONDÉ NAST IS
COMMITTED TO GLOBAL
available upon request. .com. Stetson hat; stetson .com. Top; skims.com. 194: Watch; select ENVIRONMENTAL
SUSTAINABILITY. SCAN
141: Dress; (877) .com. On Sherman: Cuffs; 4KINSHIP, Cartier boutiques. HERE FOR DETAILS.
70-DGUSA for costume from Angels Santa Fe. 169: Tank top; 196: Pins; vancleef
information. Fleur Du Costumes. Camilla levi.com. 170–171: arpels.com. 198:
Mal bodysuit; fleur Huey collar; camilla Dress; ferragamo.com. Necklaces; bvlgari.com
dumal.com. Pendant; hueystudio.com. On 172–173: Dress; for information. 199:
tiffany.com for Falapishi: Dolce & victoriabeckham.com. Bag; select Dolce &
W HE N D OING SO.
information. 143: Gown, Gabbana jacket; select Manicurist: Tom Bachik. Gabbana boutiques.
earring, and cuff; Dolce & Gabbana Tailor: Kyle Kasabuske 202: Rings; tiffany.com
alexandermcqueen boutiques. Brioni shirt; and Jen Hebner at for information.
.com. Manicurist: Dawn brioni.com. 152: Ring; Carol Ai Studio. 204: Bracelet; select
191
Last Look
Works in
Progress
Our portfolio of Last Looks
sees clay, wire, and stick bricolage
vignettes adorned with the
season’s most dazzling pieces.
Photographed by Théo de Gueltzl.
Cartier watch
A sculpture-in-the-making wears a gem-filled Cartier High Jewelry watch
like a necklace, with cabochon-cut rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and emerald-cut diamonds
arranged like mere patchwork. On your wrist? It’s time to shine.

Last Look
Van Cleef & Arpels clips

The latest to bloom in the glorious Van Cleef & Arpels gem garden? A pair of clips fashioned after a
cluster of primrose buds. In lieu of petals, you’ll find rubies set in 18k gold. Wear them in concert or on their own,
and fasten them to anything your heart desires, from gown to collar to lapel or beyond.

BOW DETAIL
DRESS
$17.99
HOLIDAY
Last Look
Bulgari necklaces
This clay bust doesn’t know how lucky it is—draped around its neck are two beguiling necklaces: On top, a
Cuban-style chain adorned with diamonds and cabochon-cut rubellite and amethyst stones; on the bottom, another
diamond-encrusted chain—but this time, branching off into pear-shaped stones that make quite the impression.

Dolce & Gabbana bag
At first glance, you may not realize that this fiery red satchel is entirely, fully,
completely beaded—embellished from top to bottom with glossy beads that create the most
marvelous tactile sensation. Shimmy it around, and you’ll even get a bit of a tune.

PRINTED
SHIRT
$36.99
HOLIDAY
RUCHED OFF-THE-
SHOULDER DRESS
$26.99
HOLIDAY
Last Look
Tiffany & Co. rings

What a catch! This little red wax figurine is accessorized with a pair of fish-shaped rings
from the Blue Book Collection that dazzle with hulking Sri Lankan padparadscha sapphires. The fish
on top carries a sapphire of five carats; on bottom, the sapphire reaches just past six carats.

Last Look
Chanel High Jewelry bracelet

This fine jewelry piece is dubbed the Blushing Sillage bracelet and consists of a cuff of 18k pink gold
with a collection of diamonds, rubies, spinels, garnets, and yellow sapphires arranged in a radial pattern. Striking in
both detail and color palette, it’s an accessory that doesn’t really need to raise a hand to be noticed.

Louis Vuitton Men’s slipper
The crown jewel of Louis Vuitton’s latest men’s collection may very well be these
not-so-homey house slippers. Festooned with a glittering array of stones, they’re enough
to make the concept of being all dressed up with nowhere to go an actual goal.

Last Look
S IT T ING S EDITOR: W ILLOW L INDL EY. P RODUC ED BY CXA AND BRAC HF EL D. SET DESIGN: MIL A TAYLO R-YOUNG.
Fendi Couture clutch

When designing this sumptuous handbag, Fendi had both practicality and luxury in mind,
encrusting a fully beaded ballet-slipper-pink clutch—for, you know, essentials—with a built-in ring for
the kind of glitz perfect for anywhere from the red carpet to merely painting the town red.

BOW MINI
DRESS
$99
HOLIDAY

2023-11-25 01-24-28 Revista de Moda y Belleza Vogue December 2023

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DEC

CLEARED FOR TAKEOFF

S ET D ES IGN: M ARY H OWAR D. DETA ILS, SE E IN T HIS ISSU E.

54 80 110 your “season” 126 releasing a

determines your long-awaited

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SCULP TED CABLE

S IT T ING S EDITOR: GIANLUCA LONGO. H AIR , CA R ME N DI M ARCO AND M IMM O L ASER RA ;

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making art for six years and started up again in 2015,

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HOSTED BY CHIOMA NNADI

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HIGH NOON, HIGH DESIGN

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PACK AND PLAY

GANG’S ALL HERE

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The Play’s Sarah Paulson, a person of palpable charm and

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I list of the world’s most legend-

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Meet Abrar Mohamed, Vogue Open Casting finalist and model

“I think it’s a misconception in society to think hijabi women

Discover Emma Chamberlain’s favorite gift

what can clothes do to art? While

110 DECEMBER 2023 VOGUE.COM

Great Design Starts Here

Explore the directory at

© T H E ESTAT E OF AL ICE NEE L. COURTESY OF T H E ESTAT E OF AL IC E NEEL AND DAV ID ZW IRNER.

116 DECEMBER 2023 VOGUE.COM

STRONG IMMUNE SYSTEM

From Day ONE

I makes me think of crunchy snow-

118 DECEMBER 2023 VOGUE.COM

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he last time I wore ribbons in my hair, I was also

T wearing a leotard and tights: As a kid at the School

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Design Access Jacques Agbobly,

Inside a chic celebration of American

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More than in the method of music

“Fashion insists on galloping along,

HADI FALAPISHI ON MARNI,

“What I like about art and fashion

JILL MULLEADY ON PRADA, NICOLAS PARTY ON ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, PORTRAIT

shakers are rocket-ship-shaped; Sánchez found them on

objects, art, books—and obviously restoration team on an 800-year-old

OBJECTS OF WONDER happened: The monkey returned

1. DES PHEMMES JACKET, $1,500;

BY APPOINTMENT SPACE, NYC.

BOUTIQUES. 6. MIU MIU SHOE,

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