Vol. 32 No.

4 January 2019

Kikkoman ’s quarterly intercultural forum for the exchange of ideas on food

THE JAPANESE TABLE 4

CLOSE-UP JAPAN:

Japanese Noodles
Japanese Mushrooms
—

5
Ramen JAPANESE STYLE:
Wafu Dressing

by Ayao Okumura TASTY TRAVEL:

Shizuoka Oden
Our 2018 series on Japanese noodles has taken a wide-ranging look —
at the distinctive histories and traditions of somen, udon and soba. 6
With this issue, we conclude with ramen, one of the country’s most MORE ABOUT JAPANESE COOKING:
popular noodles, which has fast become a global favorite. Ramen-Style Cellophane Noodle Soup with
Simmered Pork
Ramen Salad
—

8
KIKKOMAN TODAY:
KIKKOMAN LIVE KITCHEN TOKYO
Kikkoman Opens Fusion Concept Restaurant
 Japanese Noodles
Ramen

Ramen noodles are made by adding about twenty Chinese restaurants in in the Great Kanto Earthquake of
alkaline water to flour that has a Yokohama which invariably served 1923, portable stalls serving Shina
protein content of 9 percent to noodle dishes, including chashao soba proliferated, and the popularity
11.5 percent. Typically, ramen tangmian soup noodles with sliced of the dish was assured.
noodles are boiled, drained, added pork, and rousi tangmian soup Far to the north in Hokkaido,
to a seasoned soup made from noodles with thin pork strips. Not the Chinese restaurant Takeya
meat stock, and served with only Chinese, but Japanese locals opened in the city of Sapporo in
various toppings. patronized these shops, where the 1921, across the street from a
Japanese referred to noodle dishes as university. A Chinese chef at the
China Origins Nankin soba. restaurant concocted a delicious
The roots of ramen can be traced In 1910, a retired Japanese version of rousi tangmian that was
back to China, whose noodle-eating customs official who had been authentically Chinese and much
food culture was introduced in working in Yokohama opened his sought-after by Chinese exchange
Japan during the 1860s, when Japan own Chinese restaurant in the students studying at the university.
ended its national isolation and Asakusa area of Tokyo. He hired Whenever a dish was ready, the
reopened its ports to the outside Chinese cooks from Nankin-machi, cook would announce Hao le!
world. The Chinese method of changed the name of the noodle (“a delicious dish is complete!”).
making and cooking noodles dishes from Nankin soba to Shina That le sounded rather like ra to
eventually evolved into a unique soba. He added toppings of chashao, the Japanese ear, and it was from
Japanese style that became known or, as it eventually came to be this phrase that ra was paired with
as “ramen.” called in Japanese, “chashu,” a the Japanese word men, meaning
In the late nineteenth century, type of cooked pork, and memma noodles. Takeya’s “ra-men” noodles
many Chinese settled in the port of simmered strips of sweet bamboo became tremendously popular,
Yokohama—some as shopkeepers, shoots. Some years later, when the setting in motion a fad that swept
others as laborers and still others city of Tokyo was reduced to rubble through the entire city of Sapporo.
as housekeepers and chefs for
Western traders who were active in
the city. Eventually, those Chinese
immigrants established their own
Nankin-machi—Nankin being the
Japanese pronunciation of Nanjing.
Nankin-machi later evolved
into Yokohama’s own unique
Chinatown. In Nankin-machi,
restaurants and food stalls popped
up to cater to the needs of workers
and shopkeepers; by 1887 there were Pre-cooked and dried ramen noodles Eating at a typical ramen shop counter

2
 From left: Miso ramen; shoyu ramen; tonkotsu ramen; world’s first
instant noodles (1958) and world’s first instant noodles in a cup (1971).

Instant Fame soup flavor, noodle texture and tonkotsu ramen, the rich pork-bone
It was Momofuku Ando’s (1910- various toppings. The noodles at salt-based soup popular in Kyushu.
2007) invention in 1958 of the such ramen shops usually consist And throughout Japan, every locale
world’s first instant noodles— of different types of high quality offers up distinct ramen flavors:
pre-cooked and dried ramen flour that has been skillfully chashu cooked pork is a common
noodles sold in a packet—that blended. Ramen noodles vary topping, but regional versions of
spawned what would eventually in appearance: they can be thin, ramen often highlight a special local
become a global industry. At a medium-thin or thick; some are product, such as chicken, crab or
time when television was just straight, others curly. To make the shellfish. With Japan’s seemingly
beginning to catch on in Japan, he noodles appear more appetizing, endless variety of unique ramen
aired instant noodle commercials their yellow color is enhanced styles, one can experience and enjoy
constantly, familiarizing Japanese by adding kuchinashi gardenia a truly “gourmet ramen” journey,
throughout the country with the colorant; but above all, it is the all the way from northern Hokkaido
product. In 1966, Ando traveled soup that is the most fascinating down to southernmost Okinawa.
to the U.S. to pitch his instant ingredient of ramen. Made with
noodles in supermarkets. Local stock of primarily chicken or
supermarket staff removed the pork, Japanese cooks add kombu,
ramen noodles from the package, katsuobushi dried bonito flakes,
broke them in half and placed dried sardines or other dried fish,
them in a paper cup, poured in hot and dried shrimp or dried scallops,
water, and ate them with a fork. all of which release umami and
At that time, very few Americans greatly enhance the flavor. Some
owned noodle bowls or used soups are made by simmering
chopsticks, and it was this episode pork bones for days to produce a
that inspired Ando to develop new rich broth full of collagen and
cup-type instant noodles. Today, ash content. These robust soups cover
A traditional-style ramen street stall
some one hundred billion servings are also popular with visitors from
of instant noodles are consumed abroad, and some of Japan’s major Author’s profile
Ayao Okumura, Ph.D. was born in 1937 in
annually around the world. ramen chain restaurants have Wakayama Prefecture. A former professor at Kobe
branches in cities around Yamate University, Dr. Okumura is a specialist in
Ultimate Ramen the world. traditional Japanese cuisine. He is currently
part-time professor at Osaka City University
Bowls of fresh ramen are enjoyed There are three main ramen Graduate School, lecturing on the establishment
in countless restaurants and varieties, according to soup base: and structure of Japanese food culture; as owner
shops throughout Japan that vie miso ramen, the miso-based soup of cooking studio Douraku-tei, he is known for his
authentic reproductions of historic Japanese dishes
to create the “ultimate” gourmet of Hokkaido; shoyu ramen, the
and menus. His various publications include Nippon
ramen recipe. They constantly soy sauce-based Kanto-style found men shokubunka no 1300 nen (“1,300 years of
experiment with combinations of mainly around the Tokyo area; and Japanese noodle food culture,” 2009; revised 2014).

FOOD FORUM January 2019 3

 CLOSE-UP JAPAN
Traditions and trends
in Japanese food culture

Clockwise from top: Matsutake

Bunashimeji, maitake, eryngii, shiitake and enoki

Japanese Mushrooms

A wide selection of mushrooms are edible types, it is unwise to pick

available in Japan, and they appear in and eat wild mushrooms unless
any number of dishes including hot Japanese have long experienced or following the advice
pots, sautés, rice dishes and soups. of a specialist. About two-thirds of
Mushrooms can be categorized into
included mushrooms the country consists of forested land,
artificially cultivated varieties and in their diet and the Japanese have welcomed
wild mushrooms; in Japan there are wild mushrooms into their diet for
estimated to be some 4,000 to 5,000 centuries, including shiitake, which
different types of wild mushrooms, and grow on stumps or fallen broad-leaf
of these, only about 100 kinds are edible. was adopted in Japan as early as the trees; the delicious maitake; and
Mushrooms are largely divided 1600s to grow shiitake mushrooms. matsutake, which grow on the roots of
into saprophytic mushrooms, which Currently, some mushrooms including Japanese red pines. With a very limited
find nutrition in decayed vegetation; shiitake, enoki, bunashimeji and yield, matsutake are expensive,
and mycorrhiza mushrooms, which maitake are cultivated primarily in and are referred to as the “King
grow in symbiosis with live tree roots. mushroom beds throughout the year; of Mushrooms.” More affordable
Artificially cultivated mushrooms are recently, eryngii and other mushrooms matsutake available in Japan are
saprophytic. Mushroom cultivation of foreign origin have been raised using imports. All mushrooms contain
this method. At present, some 20 a considerable amount of umami.
types of mushrooms are cultivated and For example, sun-drying shiitake
available here year-round. mushrooms produces guanylic acid,
Natural wild mushrooms, on a constituent of umami, making it
the other hand, come into season in possible to experience a flavor that raw
Autumn, and this is the time when shiitake do not have. When cooking
people enjoy mushroom-picking in with dried shiitake, they are soaked
Japan’s woods. Wild mushrooms in water and rehydrated for use in
also include poisonous varieties, simmered dishes, while shiitake
Rice cooked with mushrooms and because some of these resemble soaking water is used as dashi.

4
 JAPANESE STYLE
Perspectives on
Japanese cuisine

Wafu Dressing
Pork shabu-shabu salad
with sesame dressing

A wide range of salad dressings are marketed in Japan, but wafu dressings are also excellent as seasonings, enhancing the
it was only in the late 1950s that Western-style dressings flavor of most ingredients and adding richness to a recipe. For
debuted here. In the late 1970s, wafu “Japanese-style” dressing instance, shiso dressing adds a unique flavor to udon or soba
was introduced, consisting of mainly soy sauce, vinegar salad sauce. A flavorful wafu dressing can be used to marinate
and vegetable oil. This launched a variety of wafu dressings cucumber, cabbage and carrot to make lightly pickled
flavored with traditional ingredients targeting Japanese tastes. vegetables (asazuke), while grated daikon radish dressing
Today’s wafu dressing varieties include shiso (perilla leaf), might accompany shabu-shabu hot pot. Wafu dressings are
sesame, yuzu citrus, grated ginger, or grated daikon Japanese versatile in meat-based recipes as well. Marinate any meat in
radish—most of which are added to a fundamental base of a wafu dressing, and its oil helps the flavor to gently penetrate
soy sauce, vinegar and vegetable oil. Good not only on salads, the meat, while the vinegar tenderizes the meat.

Wafu dressings are versatile enough to use as seasonings and in marinades. Some examples include, from left:
Grated onion; Japanese long onion and salt; yuzu citrus and miso; onion; shiso and grated daikon; grated ginger; sesame; wasabi

TASTY TRAVEL

Shizuoka Oden
Shizuoka oden is a specialty hot pot from Shizuoka
City in Shizuoka Prefecture. Typical oden broth is
made with kombu or katsuobushi dried bonito flakes,
Shizuoka, Shizuoka Prefecture
but Shizuoka oden’s much darker broth involves
simmered beef tendon and soy sauce. Its warming
ingredients, served on skewers, include beef tendon,
konjac, daikon, boiled egg, kombu and chikuwa tube-
shaped fishcake. But this oden is most famous for
its kuro hampen, or “black hampen,” a dark-colored
paste of minced sardines molded into oval shapes. The
dish is garnished with green laver and finely ground
dried fish, along with a dollop of Japanese mustard.
Shizuoka oden was traditionally eaten at casual street
stalls, but nowadays, enthusiastic oden-lovers can
enjoy Shizuoka oden in various restaurants and shops
Shizuoka Oden throughout the city.

FOOD FORUM January 2019 5

 Soup seasoning used by ramen shops consists mainly of reduced
RAMEN-STYLE CELLOPHANE simmering liquid from cooking pork. This is ladled into individual
NOODLE SOUP WITH ramen bowls, followed by clear soup. The character of ramen soup
lies in its simple aroma and flavor, created not with spices, but by
SIMMERED PORK adding only green or long onions and ginger to the simmering liquid.

1 Cut pork into two or three pieces along the grain of the muscle fibers. Pierce the meat
lightly with a fork.

Cellophane noodles
2 Warm a small amount of oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Sear the meat until
golden brown.

Serves 4-5
314 kcal Protein 6.3 g Fat 7.4 g
(per serving)
3 Place the seared meat in a stock pot*and pour in the simmering liquid ingredients to just
cover the pork; add extra water if needed. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to
low or lower-medium heat, maintaining a steady simmer. After 3-4 minutes, turn the pork
• Pork butt, 700-800 g / approx. 1.5 lb. over. Cover with a drop-lid or parchment paper and continue cooking for 20 more minutes,
• Pure olive oil or vegetable oil
turning once or twice. If the meat can be pierced easily with a skewer or bamboo stick, it is
Simmering liquid for cooking pork done. Turn off heat. Remove meat from pot, strain liquid** then boil it down to about half.
• 6 T Kikkoman Soy Sauce
• 500 ml / 2 C water, plus more if needed
Return pork to the reduction, set aside to steep for 2-3 hours; remove and cut the meat into
• 1 T light brown sugar about 0.5 cm- / 0.2 in.-thick slices; set aside.***
• 1 knob ginger with skin (20 g / 0.7 oz.),

4
cut in thin slices
• 2-3 green onions Prepare cellophane noodles as per package instructions.

• 50-100 g / 1.5-3.5 oz. potato or mung

5
bean cellophane noodles; reduce
or increase amount depending on To make the ramen-style soup, boil water and add chicken stock granules. Add 4 T of the
preference reduced pork simmering liquid or more if desired.
Ramen-style soup
• 1000 ml / 4 C water
• 1 ½ T Japanese Tori-Gara chicken
soup stock granules or powder
• 4 T or more reduced simmering liquid
6 In individual serving bowls, place desired amount of noodles and sliced pork, then ladle
soup over both. For a stronger ramen flavor, add more of the reduction. Garnish with
green onion to serve.
from cooked pork
• Green onions, cut slantwise, 5 cm / 2 in. * Pot should be just the right size to fit the meat.
for garnish ** To remove fat from simmering liquid, cool it in refrigerator, then remove the congealed fat.
*** Consider using any remaining simmered pork in fried rice or other recipes.
Recipe by Michiko Yamamoto

1 C (U.S. cup) = approx. 240 ml; 1 T = 15 ml; 1 t = 5 ml

6
 RAMEN SALAD

1 Prepare noodles as per package instructions. Drain and rinse the noodles with running
water, and then drain again. Cut the noodles into 7-8 cm / 2.5-3 in. lengths. Set aside.

Ramen noodles 2 Tear the lettuce into bite-sized pieces. Cut the cherry tomatoes in half. Pick off the
tender portions of the watercress and coriander. Tear the imitation crab sticks into
bite-sized pieces.
Serves 4

3
181 kcal Protein 4.9 g Fat 8.0 g
(per serving) Mix the dressing ingredients together.
• 120 g / 4 oz. fresh ramen noodles*
• 4 lettuce leaves

4 Place the cooked noodles in a serving bowl. Add the lettuce, tomatoes, watercress,
• 4 cherry tomatoes
• 1/2 bunch watercress
• 4 coriander sprigs coriander and imitation crabmeat.
• 4 sticks imitation crabmeat

Dressing
• 2 T mayonnaise
• 1 ½ T surigoma ground white sesame
5 Just before serving, pour desired amount of the dressing over the salad.

• 1/2 T granulated sugar * If unavailable, thin udon noodles or pasta may be substituted.
• 2 t sesame oil
• 2 T Kikkoman Soy Sauce
• 1 T vinegar Recipe by Kikkoman Corporation
• 4 T water

FOOD FORUM January 2019 7

 KIKKOMAN LIVE KITCHEN TOKYO
Kikkoman Opens Fusion Concept Restaurant

From left:
KIKKOMAN LIVE
KITCHEN TOKYO;
Gift Shop; Cafe & Bar

One of Kikkoman Corporation’s At LIVE KITCHEN, diners discuss recipes and demonstrate
business principles is “To promote experience the essence of this cooking techniques on the
the international exchange of international exchange of food kitchen stage. The restaurant uses
food culture,” and we have been culture with all five senses. exceptional and distinctive food
actively engaging in this practice “Cooking Live” events are held on a ingredients, thanks to partnerships
for more than half a century. As special kitchen stage, providing the with regional municipalities
part of this ongoing initiative, the opportunity to observe at first hand throughout Japan and Tokyo-based
company unveiled its KIKKOMAN the expertise and manual dexterity foreign embassies. There is also
LIVE KITCHEN TOKYO concept of professional chefs. As these chefs an adjoining Gift Shop and the
restaurant in Tokyo’s Yurakucho comment on their real-time food Cafe & Bar where, if they prefer
district on November 1, 2018. preparations, diners can enjoy dishes not to visit the restaurant, visitors
“Fusion” is the key concept at LIVE while listening and learning how to may savor wines provided by the
KITCHEN. In the process of expanding enhance the unique qualities of the Kikkoman Group company, Manns
the global soy sauce market, Kikkoman food itself. Wines, as well as limited edition
Soy Sauce has been introduced into Each month, two or three Japanese sake.
many diverse food cultures, generating famous guest chefs from different Kikkoman hopes that as many
countless new and delicious flavors; in genres collaborate to create new visitors as possible will experience
fact, Kikkoman has always intended for dishes that will be available this memorable “international
people to use its soy sauce in their daily only at LIVE KITCHEN. The exchange of food culture” and enjoy
lives and fuse it with ingredients and menu changes monthly, and the a new world of delicious flavors that
dishes specific to their own countries restaurant occasionally holds can be found only at KIKKOMAN
and regions. Special Days where the guest chefs LIVE KITCHEN TOKYO.

KIKKOMAN LIVE KITCHEN TOKYO For Reservations

www.kikkoman-livekitchen-tokyo.com/en/index.html

FOOD FORUM is a quarterly newsletter published by Kikkoman Corporation, International Operations Division, 2-1-1 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku,
Tokyo 105-8428, Japan / Production: Cosmo Public Relations Corporation / Editor: Marybeth Stock / Proofreader: Joanna Ohmori / Special Advisors:
Isao Kumakura, Michiko Yamamoto / Contributor: Ayao Okumura / Art Director: Eiko Nishida / Photo Credits: PIXTA (p. 1, p. 2 except bottom left, p.
3 top left, p. 4, p. 5 top, p. 5 bottom) / Yoshitaka Matsumoto (p. 2 bottom left, p. 5 center, pp. 6-7) / NISSIN FOODS HOLDINGS CO., LTD. (p. 3 top right) / Special thanks to NISSIN FOODS
HOLDINGS CO., LTD. / Printing: Otowa Printing ©2018 by Kikkoman Corporation. All rights reserved. Requests to reprint articles or excerpts should be sent to the publisher. www.kikkoman.com