Eagle Lift MTP11A
Eagle Lift MTP11A
Eagle Lift MTP11A
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MTP-11A
(11000LBS. ASSYMETRIC OVERHEAD CLEAR FLOOR)
INSTALLATION
AND
OPERATION
MANUAL
MTP-11A LIFT
MTP-11A LIFT
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Parts Checklist
Installation Instructions
Step 1 Measure lift area and check for defects
Step 3 Position columns and uprights, level columns and install top
beam
Operation
Learn proper operation and recheck lift components
Maintenance Schedule
Please read and follow the maintenance guide
Troubleshooting Guide
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LIFT SPECIFICATIONS
Important notes
Do not install this unit on any surface other than concrete conforming to
minimum specifications.
Do not install this lift over expansion joints or cracks. Check with building
architect.
Do not install this lift on a second floor with a basement beneath without
written authorization from building architect.
This lift is only as good as the floor you put it on. A good, level floor is
recommended for proper lift operation and installation. Cement should be
a minimum of 6” thick and 3,000 psi. tensile strength with steel or fiber
mesh reinforcement.
The lift is intended to raise the entire body of the vehicle only. Do not
attempt to lift only part of the vehicle. Improper use of this equipment
could result in damage to the lift, yourself or other property.
The lift is intended to lift vehicles only. It is not designed to lift any person
or equipment containing persons.
The first step to any successful installation is to measure the bay for correct
positioning of the lift. Measure the width of your doorway and divide it by two.
This will give you the center of your doorway. Make a mark on the floor at the
center of the doorway and measure from the side-wall to center mark. Note the
distance and measure the same distance from the side wall at the front of the
shop. Now snap a chalk line between the two marks -- this is the center line for
your lift.
Measure 68-3/4” from the center line to each side of the center line at front and
rear of shop. Snap two more lines. These are your lift’s outer dimensions (see
Figure 1).
NOTE: If you have less than 4” between the wall and your outer dimension,
you should move the lift over to allow for at least 4” of space. Manufacturer
recommends 12” between the wall and the outer dimension, but where that is not
possible, 4” is acceptable.
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Step 1: (continued)
Measure 12’ from each side of the shop door, snap horizontal chalk line as
shown. Use square and measure 12” from each side of previous chalk line on
each side and snap horizontal chalk line as shown
NOTE:
BEFORE ERECTING COULMNS,
CHECK FOR "SLOP" IN CARRIAGE ASSEMBLIES
AND SHIM IF NECESSARY.
(See Carriage Shimming Procedure at the back of this manual for details.)
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With the column laying down, slide Extension onto column and line up holes.
Use 3/8 x ¾” long bolts, washer and lock washers. Tighten. (see Figure 3.)
Examine the area where your lift is going. Check for large cracks in the floor,
expansion joints and for overhead obstructions. If either column is going to sit
across or on top of an expansion joint, you may need to move the lift to a
different location.
NOTE: Bolt holes in the base plate should be at least 4” from any
expansion joint or large crack. You will need at least 12’ of unobstructed ceiling
height.
Position the columns as shown in Figure 6. Using a four foot level and shims
provided, shim the columns level, front-to-back and side-to-side.
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You will need a rotary hammer with a ¾” carbide masonry bit (most rental outlets
carry them). Do not use a regular drill and bit!
Your floor must be a minimum of 5” thick and 3,000 psi concrete or better.
Using your rotary hammer, drill twelve ¾” holes. Drill through the floor and
hammer the anchor bolts in half-way (install the nut and flat washer on the bolt
before placing them into the hole).
NOTE: Be careful not to move the columns when drilling. One way to
avoid this is to drill the holes and place the bolts one-at-a-time and save the
inside hole for last.
Recheck the plum & level of each column and place shims around or beside
each bolt and wherever there is space. Hammer the anchor bolts all the way
down. Using a torque wrench, tighten the anchor bolts to 110 foot-pounds of
torque NOTE: Reset to 120 foot-pounds in 2-days. Recheck the level of the
columns. If the columns are off, loosen the anchors and use a pry bar to tilt the
columns and shim as needed. Retighten and check again. Now tighten the bolts
on the uprights. With all bolts tights and the columns as close to level as you can
get, you will have a good solid installation and years of trouble-free service.
Using two people, a fork-lift or shop crane, lift each carriage to the first or second
safety lock position. Allow each carriage to rest on the locks and measure each
side to be sure they are at the same height. Unwrap the two large cables and
separate them. Remove the four ¾” lock nuts and four ¾” thin flat washers.
Place nuts and two flat washers on each carriage so they are easy to get at.
Four full height settings, cable will attach to the flange located about 6" above
the carriage top.
For low height settings, cable will pass through the flange and attach to the hole
in the carriage top.
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With both cables in place, you are ready to adjust. Start on the left side. With a
pair of vice grips, grab the bottom of the rod whose threads are pointing up.
Place a deep socket on the nut and tighten it until the opposite side raises ¼”.
Tighten the other side the same way until it comes back down ¼” and then give it
one full turn. Both cables should now have the same tension.
NOTE: Do not over-tighten cables. This will cause lift to lose carrying
capacity and could damage the components
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Install Single point lock cable as shown. Route from Offside lock pulley up to
pulley on Extension across to other pulley down to Mainside lock pulley. See
Figure 8.
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Remove the power unit from the box. Inspect the power unit for damage before
continuing.
Locate the four 5/16” x 1” bolts, four nuts and four lock nuts in the parts box.
Place the four bolts in the four holes on the mounting plate on the column, then
place the four nuts hand-tight onto the four bolts. Hang the power unit on the
four bolts and put the four lock nuts in place to hold them. Tighten the four nuts
first, then the lock nuts.
Remove the plastic cap from the 3/8” port on the side of the pump and install the
o-ring fitting found in the parts box. Screw in the “T” fitting until the O-ring
touches the pump and the ends are facing the top of the motor and the bottom of
the tank. Then use a 11/16” wrench to tighten the locking nut and assure a good
seal. Next unscrew plastic cap from the tank. Place a funnel in the hole and fill
the tank with AW32 (10W) hydraulic oil. (Figure 10.)
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Locate the four 5/16” x 1” bolts, four nuts and four lock nuts in the parts box.
Place the four bolts in the four holes on the mounting plate on the column, then
place the four nuts hand-tight onto the four bolts. Hang the power unit on the
four bolts and put the four lock nuts in place to hold them. Tighten the four nuts
first, then the lock nuts.
Unpack the long hose and connect one end to the fitting at the back of the offside
tower base. Run the hose up and over the top thru hole in extensions. Connect
the short hose to fitting at back of mainside tower base. Connect both hoses to
T-fitting at power unit. See figures 10 & 11.
Place the two long arms on the end of the square tube closest to the door, and
the two short arms on the front. Note that the two front arms are different.
Secure with steel pins.
Install the four drop-in pads into sockets at end of each arm.
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1] The power unit requires a 208-220v, 20amp circuit breaker; and typically comes with a “pig-tail”
already attached and wired to the motor. It is recommended that a twist-lock connection be
installed at this pig-tail as an emergency disconnect (Fig. 15).
(Fig. 15)
2] Power Unit comes pre-wired with a pig-tail attached. Wiring may vary, depending on the Power
Unit. Wire the power unit as shown below, depending on configuration for your Power Unit (Fig.
16a or 16b).
SWITCH BOX
Some Power Units come with a standard pull-style cut-off switch not used in this application (fig.
D). Remove this from the Power Unit switch-box.
(fig. D) (fig. E)
Hardwire the wire from the Overhead Switch into the Power Unit switch-box, to where the original
switch had been connected.
With the power properly hooked up and turned on, push the button to raise the
lift. (The cylinders will take a little while to catch up to the chain; then the lift will
begin to rise). Raise the lift as high as it will go. Push and hold the safety
release lever near the power unit to release the safety locks. Locate the lowering
handle on the power unit. Depress and hold handle until the lift goes all the way
down to the floor. Continue holding handle for at least 30 seconds to allow any
air to escape from the hydraulic system. Once the lift is fully down, it’s a good
idea to have someone push down on the cylinders while you hold out the
lowering handle. This will force out any additional air pockets. You only need to
do this once.
Run the lift all the way up and down two more times. While running the lift, listen
to the safeties clicking. Both sides should click in sync with each other. If they
are not clicking together, you can adjust the cables to compensate either by
tightening the side that is clicking first or loosening the side that is clicking last.
Do not over-tighten cables—there should be ¾ - 1” of deflection ("play").
Swing all arms to the rear, then pull a car into the bay. The general rule is to pull
the vehicle in until the steering wheel is in-line with the posts.
Swing the four arms under the vehicle and position the pads under the
appropriate lifting spots. (If you are not sure of the proper lifting points, you
should check the vehicle’s service manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer.)
Use the drop-in height adapters if needed, so they all hit their lift points at the
same time. This will allow the car to be level when rising.
With the pads in their proper locations and no obstructions around the lift or
vehicle, you may now press the button on the power unit to raise the vehicle.
Raise the vehicle so that the tires are only 6” off the ground. Walk to the back of
the vehicle and push up and down on the bumper. The vehicle will rock, but
should not at any time lose contact with the pads. If the vehicle is bounding off
the pads or feels at all unstable, you should lower it back to the ground and
reposition the pads to balance the load. Repeat this process until the vehicle is
completely stable. Verify the swing-arm locks are correctly and solidly
engaged.
When the vehicle is stable, you may raise the lift all the way to the top.
The proper operation of the lift requires that any time you raise a vehicle to
work on it, you must lower the lift onto the safety locks. This is done by
raising the vehicle to the desired height and lowering the lift until it stops on the
next available lock. To lower vehicle, you must first raise the lift 1" or 2”, release
the safeties by pushing and holding the safety release handle, and depressing
and holding the hydraulic lowering handle on the power unit.
Never work under or near the lift without the locks engaged and resting on
the safety stops—the pump is not intended to be a load-holding device.
Not using the locks will result in premature failure of the cylinders, pump
and cables—and can cause serious property damage or personally injury.
Failure to heed this warning will result in immediate termination of your
warranty.
If you are unable to get the locks to perform correctly, call our technical
support line
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Maintenance
Maintenance is the key to smooth, safe operation and longer life of your lift.
Follow these guidelines on a regular basis to keep your lift running efficiently.
2. Grease all the corners of the columns where the carriages run up
and down. The grease will do more good if you periodically clean off
the old grease to get rid of any grit. A thin film of grease works better
than thick blobs.
3. You should oil the chains on your lift at least twice a year to keep
them from rusting and freezing up. Thirty-weight motor oil or
motorcycle chain lube will be sufficient.
4. All of the pulleys on your lift should be sprayed with a light oil
such as WD-40 or similar lubricant, two to three times a year.
5. You should check for cracked or warped parts regularly and re-
tighten any loose bolts.
6. Cables are an important part of your lift. They keep both sides
running equal to the other, allowing the safeties to catch together. If
one side of your lift is running ahead of the other, most likely it is time
to adjust your cables. Follow this simple procedure:
a. Raise the lift so the top of the carriage clears the chain and
pulley.
b. Notice the threaded rod and nut that stick out through the top of
each carriage. These are your adjusting nuts.
c. You will tighten the nut on the side that is lifting ahead of the
other by holding the bottom of the threaded rod with a pair of
vice-grips and turning the nut with a suitable wrench or socket.
d. Run the lift up and down and determine if you need further
adjustment. If so, repeat steps a through c.
If at any time you’re not sure of the safe operation of the lift, discontinue
using it and call our technical support line for assistance.
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Troubleshooting Guide
into cylinder
Oil squirts out of cylinder 1. Bad seal 1. Replace seal or
well cylinder
2. 2.
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Eagle Equipment warrants to the original retail purchaser of an Eagle Automotive Lift that it will
replace without charge any part found under normal use, in the United states or Canada, to be
defective in materials or workmanship, for a period of one (1) year from date of purchase.
Warranty covers parts only; purchaser is responsible for any and all labor requirements.
Exclusions
This warranty will not apply to any machine:
Other limitations
This warranty does not cover:
Eagle Equipment reserves the right to make improvements and/or design changes to its
equipment without any obligation to previously sold, assembled or fabricated equipment.
There is no other express warranty on the Eagle Automotive Lift equipment and this warranty is
exclusive of and in lieu of all other warranties, expressed or implied, including all warranties of
merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose.
To the fullest extent allowed by law, Eagle Equipment shall not be liable for loss of use,
inconvenience, lost time, commercial loss or other incidental or consequential damages
Some States do not allow exclusion or limitation of consequential damages or how long an
implied warranty lasts, so that the above limitations and exclusions may not apply. This warranty
gives you specific legal rights and you may have other rights, which may vary from State to State.