FOOTWEAR ▪ The outer coverings for the human feet, such as

shoes, boots, and sandals.

▪ A garment worn on foot
▪ Made of Leather & Non Leather materials.

▪ Without footwear a human being cannot live.

▪ Even the primitive human being might have
covered his feet for warmth and protection.
 THE FUNCTIONS OF
FOOTWEAR
The primary functions of a footwear are two, namely:
—To protect the sole of the foot, and
—To protect the upper part of the foot.
The secondary or derived functions can be listed as the following:
—To support the foot to perform unusual tasks
—To overcome some abnormalities in the foot itself
—To complete a costume
And under certain circumstances:
—To indicate rank or office.
As a designer we are often called upon to solve the problem of:
— Combining several of these in a single article.
▪ Footwear manufacturing industries are
operating in a very competitive and dramatical
changing environment.
▪ (Iovan-dragomir and Alexandra, 2018)
▪ These industries use different quality
techniques
❑ Improving quality,
❑ Reducing cost and
❑ Shortening delivery time
❑ In order to survive in such an environment,
the industries have to develop a better quality
product
FOOTWEAR
Depending upon the style, type and
STYLES purpose the footwear can be broadly
three types
❑ Chappal or open type
❑ Sandal or strap type
❑ Boot and shoe or closed type

SEVEN BASIC STYLES

DERBY ➢ Most commonly used formal and casual shoes.
➢ Very wide range of styles can be derived from
a derby design
➢ Unisex
➢ Can be identified from the following points

❑ Lock stitch (or) style stitch

❑ The quarter can be opened
❑ The vamp and the tongue Will be on the same line
❑ In most of the cases Quarter will be on the vamp.
V
OXFORD
➢ Most widely used as formal shoes
➢ Unisex
➢ Quarter is locked at the vamp point and
hence opening of the quarter is limited.

➢ Has an independent tongue which

is stitched at the final stage of the upper
➢ In most of the cases vamp will be on the
quarter.
COURT
❑Shoes for ladies formal and casual wear.
❑ It has unbroken top line.

❑ The top line will be below the vamp point.

❑ Can be made in different heel heights.
SANDALS
A popular Unisex foot were which
is very comfortable

➢ The foot is free at the toe and heel.

➢ The Length of sandals can be adjusted
with the help of buckle.
BOOTS ➢ Casual shoes popular among kids and teenagers
➢ Different types of boots are
•Ankle boot.
•High boot.
•Knee boot.
•Thigh boot.
SLIPON ➢ Slip on is also called as Pantafola & Loafer .
➢ As the name indicates these shoes can be
slipped in and slipped out very easily.

❑ Does not have lace.

❑ Can be with or without elastic.
❑ Saddle is present in most of these designs.
MOCCASIN ➢The most comfortable shoe to wear.
➢Expensive as more leather is consumed .
➢Formal & casual shoe.

➢Bottom will be covered with the upper

leather at the fore part.
➢Hand stitched gives a good appearance.
 SPORT SHOE
▪ A shoe designed to be worn for sports, exercising,
or recreational activity, as racquet ball, jogging, or
aerobic dancing.

▪ Primarily designed for sport or other forms of physical

exercise, but which are now also widely used for
everyday casual wear.

▪ Casual sport footwear market creates shoes that

are competitive, profitable, and stylish.

In addition to influencing high street fashion, their styles

are also visible in the most avant-garde fashion creations.
Designing A designer is not only to sketch some line on the last but to have
the ability and skill to transfer a two dimensional drawing on a
three dimensional last

Function of a shoe Designer :

1. The basic concept or idea of the shoe to be created and the
imaginary shoe sketch to be drawn on a paper and is two
dimensional work
2. To transfer original sketch on the last and preparing for the
basic model. It is the three dimensional
3. Development of the “base model” or “standard” cutting of
individuals paper pattern for the concerned shoe and it is two
dimensional
4. Finally the preparation of a complete shoe. It is moulding of
the shoe closed upper the last and consecutive operation up
to finishing and it is three dimensional.
 CHANGES IN FOOTWEAR FASHION
• Shoe designs are subject to seasonal fashion changes which
may take place every year or even twice a year.
• We make shoes for customers all over the world.
• Their requirements are varied but all must accommodate.
• We have to develop, therefore, such shoe lines that will give
optimum satisfaction to all of them.

• It is indeed a big challenge to the designer.

• Then again every decade or so sees a pronounced change in
the emphasis on style:
—Curves may be the vogue at one time,
—Slimness may be the essence of style in another period,
—Dresses may sweep the ground or climb to the knee or still
above.
 THE FUNDAMENTALS OF SHOE DESIGN

▪ A properly designed shoe has been aptly compared

with a three-legged stool.
▪ The seat of the stool forms the design which we want
to place firmly, without wobbling, on the three legs of:
—The purpose
—The material and method
—The fashion
 The Purpose:
▪ What the shoe is made for?
▪ What purpose will it serve?
▪ This must be kept in sharpest focus.
All other considerations must be made subordinate to
this factor.
 The Material:
▪ The material is primarily decided by the
purpose for which the design is intended,
and secondarily the preference of the
customer. Having been chosen the material
then controls very largely:
 The Method:
▪ This is how the shoe is made.
▪ The method influences the design and in turn, is
influenced by it. How?
▪ A good knowledge of the actual manufacturing
process through which the design must pass:
from the paper pattern to the finished product: is
therefore an important consideration for any
successful work of designing.
 The Fashion:
The fashion element is the fourth interchangeable leg of our stool
which we are called upon to insert in order to develop:
▪ A shoe line which will be attractive and acceptable to the
customer.
▪ As a designer we must note that there exists a
difference between fashion and style although the
words are often used interchangeably:
▪ The style is basic and
▪ The fashion is meeting the challenge to change to the new.
 THE INGREDIENTS OF FASHION

❑ The element of fashion is the difference present in the article.

Fashion initially follows function but frequently survives:

❑ Long after the function has disappeared.

❑ More ornamentation isn’t creating fashion in fact over-done

ornamentation is liable to degenerate into vulgarity.

❑ However, those who create or influence the trend in footwear

fashion: Share in the priceless gift of imagination which
transforms the commonplace into the beautiful.

❑ Let’s consider the following elements:

 Upper Material:
❑ Today the designer has an enormous range of
materials from which he can choose his uppers.
❑ In recent years, more than ever before, there has
been a growing recognition of:
❑ A close relationship between shoes and costumes.
 Decoration on the Upper:
❑ There are many forms and many methods of decorating
the upper.
❑ But one of the oldest is the cut-outs or holes made in
the upper which may be: Circles, triangles, rectangles,
squares or intricate patterns.
 Additive Decorations:
Additive decoration consists of ornamental but non-
functional rows of:
▪ Stitching
▪ Overlays or appliqués
▪ Piping and interlacing
▪ Metallic threads, beads etc.
▪ Embossing on uppers by heated tools
 Color Scheme:

▪ Black and tan have always been the predominant

colors.
▪ Today, however, any color and shade is acceptable as
long as it is fashionable, which implies: A link-up with
the current trends in general costume designs.
 Toe Shape:
▪ In a shoe the characteristic that dates it most is its toe shape:
▪ Toes have lengthened, shortened, broadened again and again;
▪ They have become pointed, rounded and sometimes square.
▪ The fascination of the pointed toe is really hard to explain.
▪ Turned up pointed toes have been features of the oriental
sandals.
 Sole Height or Thickness:
❑ The actual separation or rather the lifting up of the foot
from the ground by means of the thickness of the sole:
❑ Has utilitarian origin.
❑ The inevitable fashion elements creep in making the
thickness of the sole Increase to extravagant
dimensions.
 Heel Height: Utility Considerations:
❑ Is the back or the heel end of the sole that wear away the quickest.
❑ Therefore, it would be economical to cover this portion with
another piece of material:
❑ And the heel is born.
❑ The idea of a replaceable part of the sole at this place which
receives the most wear is a sensible one.
❑ With utility comes in fashion and hence the variation in the
type and height of heels for women’s footwear, as also for
men’s.
 Fastenings:
❑ A knotted thong or string is the simplest and the oldest
method of fastening.
❑ The knotting of a thong or a lace into a bow made the
bow itself a feature of fashion.
❑ The bow as a decoration survives in every possible size,
shape and color:
❑ Not only at the place where it was originally
required but at any point where fashion decrees it
should be.
 Hardware:
▪ Buckles of every conceivable color, shape and size are
frequently used:
▪ Some as purely decorations and others functional.
▪ Their position on the shoe is as variable as that of the bow.
▪ Gold and silver tinsels of many varieties are also used as
fashion features.
▪ There are several other items that are capable of utility as
well as decoration:
▪ Hooks and eyes, press buttons, interlaced loops and zip
fasteners.
 Gussets:
❑ Gussets are not fastenings in the true sense.
However, elastic gussets or inserts are used at
some places of the upper:
❑ To permit the entry and withdrawal of the foot.
❑ When gussets are introduced into an upper design,
they are often covered with a bow, tongue or
overlay of other materials.
 How to develop a collection

❑ Mood board
❑ Selection of Basic shapes for the collection
❑ Sketches
❑ Pattern Development
❑ Sample Assembly
Selection of Basic Shapes for the Collection
SKETCHES
PATTERN DEVELOPMENT
SAMPLE ASSEMBLY
 Research In Design Processes

• Research feeds the imagination and keeps designer

inspired.
• It consists of investigating and collecting any objects that
stimulate the mind and spark ideas.
• Those items could be pictures, drawings, materials, objects
and actual samples of fabric and leather hardware and
finished products
• There is a pressure to be innovative and at the same time to
keep the integrity of a brand you represent and create for.
 Sources of research and inspiration

Where to begin the research depends on the stage you are at.
If you are looking for a concept, the research can be very broad, and the
whole wide world is your source.
At this stage it is important to be aware of the following influences:
▪ Current trends in fashion and design
▪ History
▪ Cultures
▪ Technology advancements
▪ Socioeconomic events or political environment
▪ Sampling and manufacturing capabilities
▪ Budget
 Building a mood board

• mood or a concept board is the refined

presentation of the finished research.

• A good mood board contains

Images, fabrics, leather swatches, and
trims as well as hardware and logos to be
used in the final collection.

• It can contain rough sketches of

shapes to be used as design details as
well as some potential body shapes that
correspond well to the concept.
▪ A great mood board presentation
shows the concept in Its completion, and
after looking at It, there should be no
questions as to what the collection is about.

▪ The season, the customer and her

lifestyle, the colors, materials, hardware
finishes, and design details for this concept
should all be clear.

▪ Be creative and employ all

inspirational resources when making the
boards. You could cut out the color chips
from the actual fabrics or leather you will
be using, or you could use Pantone colors
 Questions to consider

➢ Is the idea or concept clear and

focused, or has it become too broad?
➢ Are there enough shapes from
which to draw Inspiration?
➢ Are there enough details that can be
used in the design process?
➢ Are there sufficient patterns?
➢ Are the colors well represented?
➢ Are there too many or too few
pictures?
 ▪ Is the type of research that businesses do in order
Customer to learn more about their customers.

Research ▪ Customer research is conducted so as to identify

customer segments, needs, and behaviours.

▪ Is the practice of identifying the preferences,

attitudes, motivations, and buying behaviour of the
targeted customer.

▪ Customer research is a useful tool for businesses to

learn more about the customers that purchase
products or services.
CUSTOMER ❖ The need can be anything that drives them to reach a solution.

NEEDS ❖ Are the psychological and physical motivations that make customer want
to purchase a product or service.
❖ Are the named and unnamed needs that customers have and wants
solution from you or competitor.

The four key customer needs

❑ A fair price.
❑ A good service.
❑ A good product.
❑ To feel valued.
Types of
Customer
1. Product needs: Customers choose products that provide a
Need healthy balance between meeting customer wants and needs.
Mostly
customer Some common needs that people consider when buying products.
needs can ▪ Price: is the most important need to take into consideration.
be classed
under two ▪ Features: Effective user-centric design
verticals.
▪ Functionality: product or service should be able to solve a
customer’s problem
▪ Reliability: product has to be able to perform its function.
Types of
Customer 2. Service Needs: Service needs refer to the emotional needs of the
Need customers. The key attributes of good service can be

Mostly ❑ Empathy: Customers love brands and customers who care

customer
needs can about them.
be classed
under two ❑ Transparency: accountable for the services
verticals. ❑ Information: Customers need information from the point of
interaction until the end.
❑ Fairness: Fairness requires that businesses treat all customers
the same.
 Ways of 1.Gathering Raw Data; through interview, focus group and
identifying observation.
customer
2. Organizing Needs: Group similar needs together, prioritize them.
needs

3. Interpreting Data: translate the vague statements of the

customers into a useful list of needs.

4. Reflect on the Process: trying to evaluate how the process was

executed and Look for ways to improve or refine.
 Factors Social Factors
Affecting
Customer
Behavior

▪ Reference Groups: Small group of people (work colleagues,

friends etc.) influence values and choices of other members,
▪ Family: Family members influence buying decision (Parents for children
but not nowadays).
▪ Roles and Status: A person performs certain roles in a particular group in
the organization.
▪ (E.g. Person of senior executive in a firm might enjoys higher status (Ex.
branded clothes, cars, shoes etc.)
 Factors Cultural Factors
Affecting
Customer
Behavior

▪ Religion: E.g. alcohol, tobacco or meat products etc.

▪ Sub-culture: E.g nationalities, racial groups, language etc.

▪ Social Class: Human societies exhibit social stratification, sometimes

take the form of a caste system where members share similar
values, interest and behavior.
 Psychological Factors
Factors
Affecting
Customer
Behavior

▪ Motivation: the inner drive that motivates a person to act or behave in a certain
manner.
▪ Perception: It is the impression, which one forms about a certain situation
or object. ( E.g. student may perceive Sports Day as an important event to
purchase of new shoes, jersey etc. other may be interest in casual

▪ Learning: takes place through information and experience. E.g. when customer
buys a new brand of suits and is satisfied with it, he is likely to be brand loyal.
▪ Attitude: Tendency to respond to particular situation, object or idea (Consumers
may have positive, negative or neutral attitude towards certain products)
 Factors
Affecting Personal Factors
Customer
Behavior

▪ Age : Teenagers - trendy but office executives may prefer formal ones
▪ Gender: Girls - feminine colors (pink), boys - blue, brown colors
▪ Education: Highly educated persons - spend on books and personal care
products than the people with low education.
▪ Income Level: Higher income people – spending on higher level and
vice-versa.
▪ Status in Society: Persons enjoying higher status in society spend good
amount on luxury items such as luxury cars, watches, premium brands
clothing etc.
 ▪ Customer targeting is the act of reaching out to a

Target portion of your customer list to re-engage them

Customer and drive sales.

▪ Your target customer is the person you have
identified as most likely to purchase your
products, according to Entrepreneur.com.

▪ Segmentation is dividing the similar customer into

homogenous groups for the sake of classification and
study.
▪ Customers are segmented in similar groups based on
their likes or dislikes of a particular product.
 Target • The most general distinction of target customers exists between
Customer business and individual customers, commonly referred to as
1. business-to-business (B2B) and
2. business-to-consumer (B2C).

1. In business-to-business marketing, a company might segment

customers according to a wide range of factors, including:
• Industry
• Number of employees
• Products previously purchased from the company
• Location
2. In business-to-consumer marketing,
companies often segment customers
according to demographics that include:
• Age
• Gender • Customer segmentation is
• Marital status popular because it helps you
• Location market and sell more
• Life stage effectively.
• This is because you can develop
Why segment customers? a better understanding of your
customers’ needs and desires
 Types of Customer segmentation can be broken down into different type types:
Customer 1. Segmenting customers based on who they are (demographics)
Demographic segmentation is considered to be more effective when
Segmentation multiple segments are targeted at once.

2. Segmenting customers based on what they do (behavioral)

You can also segment customers based on how much they spend (share of
wallet), how often, and what products (this allows you to see how much you
can increase spend).
Include but is not limited to lifestyle, purchases consumption and other
various factors, behavioral customer segmentation is carried out.

3. Geographic Customer Segment

• When the customers are segregated based on their location, it is termed
as geographic customer segmentation.