BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY

ETHIOPIAN INSTITUTE OF TEXTILE AND FASHION

TECHNOLOGY
DEPARTMENT OFLEATHER ENGINNERING

RAMSAY SHOE COMPANY

TITLE: DEVELOPING OF THE SHOE FROM LEATHER CUTTING WASTAGE FOR

PRODUCTION IN RAMSAY SHOE COMPANY.

PREPARED BY:MENKIRU KASSA

ID: 0601180 COMPANY ADIVISOR: Mr. Edomias Alemu

Mss. Rahel Demise

ACADAMIC ADIVISOR: Mr.G/Hiwot Asfaha

Submission date June 9/2009

I
 Declaration
I, Menkirukassa a fourth year Leather engineering student, have undertaken my
internship experience in Ramsay foot wear Company from a period of February 18 to 9
June 2017 Gc under the guidance of A Gebrehiwot (Academic Advisor) and Edomias and
Rahel (Company advisors). I declare that my work is original and compiled according to
the internship report writing guideline given by the Institute-Industry Linkage office of
the Institute.

As the student’s academic advisor, I certify the internship report written by the student is
his original work and complied according to the guideline provided by institute's office as
far as my knowledge is concerned.

Mr. G/Hiwot A

______________________ ________________ ______________

Name of the Academic Advisor Date signature

Menkirukassa

______________________ _________________ ______________

Name of the student Date signature

I
 Acknowledgement
First and for most I would like to give great praise to my Lord, Jesus Christ, for his
kindness, forgiveness and guidance in my life. Second I would like to thank my great
attitude for our university to get this internship and to develop my practical skills. Thirdly
I would like to thanks to Ramsay shoe Company which gives the opportunity to do work
with workers in the company. And also I would like to thank all of Ramsay shoe factory
workers to help me mass work without any problem. And also I would like to thank my
supervisor MR.Gebrehiwot. For gives me different comments. At last I would like to
thank Ramsey company production manager MR Habtamu for giving much activity
chance for me and finally I would like company adviser Edomias and Rahel for helping
of my project work.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
 Executive summery
This report covers my internship practice which I have been working in Ramsay foot
Wear Company from February 18 up to 9 June, 2017GC for the past three months and
half. This report has different section and discusses main departments and section in the
shoe company including its history, overall industry condition, our overall internship
experience, tasks and the procedures we followed, the practical and theoretical
knowledge we gained including the challenges we faced while performing those tasks.
The report covers three chapters, one discuss about the Ramsay shoe company historical
background, products, mission, vision, organizational structure. Chapter two talks about
main my work, objective, methodology, data collection, data analysis and project
application. Chapter three talks about over all benefit it’s that gained from the internship.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Table of Contents
DECLARATION................................................................................................................ I

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT ............................................................................................... II

EXECUTIVE SUMMERY ............................................................................................. III

LIST OF FIGURE ........................................................................................................ VII

LIST OF TABLE ............................................................................................................ VI

LIST OF ACRONYMS ............................................................................................... VIII

CHARTER ONE ............................................................................................................... 1

1. BACKGROUND OF THE COMPANY ..................................................................... 1

1.1 HISTORY OF THE COMPANY ........................................................................................ 1

1.2 VISION OF THE COMPANY ........................................................................................... 2
1.3 MISSION OF THE COMPANY ......................................................................................... 2
1.4 OBJECTIVES OF COMPANY .......................................................................................... 2
1.4.1 Strategy ............................................................................................................... 2
1.5 ORGANIZATION STRUCTURE OF THE COMPANY ........................................................... 3
1.5.1, Responsibility areas of systems General Manager............................................ 3
1.6 RAW MATERIALS AND ACCESSORY OF COMPANY ...................................................... 5
1.6.1 Raw materials and supplier ................................................................................ 5
1.7 THE MAIN PRODUCTS OF COMPANY TO PRODUCE ........................................................ 6
1.8 MAIN CUSTOMER OF RAMSEY SHOE FACTORY............................................................. 7
1.9 OVER ALL WORK FLOW OF THE COMPANY .................................................................. 8

CHAPTER TWO ............................................................................................................ 16

2. DEVELOPING OF THE SHOE FROM LEATHER CUTTING WASTAGE FOR

PRODUCTION IN RAMSAY SHOE COMPANY. .................................................... 16

2.1 INTRODUCTION ......................................................................................................... 16

2.2 STATEMENTS OF THE PROBLEM ................................................................................ 17

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
 2.3 OBJECTIVE OF THE PROJECT...................................................................................... 17
2.3.1 General objective .............................................................................................. 17
2.3.2 Specific objective .............................................................................................. 17
2.4 SIGNIFICANCE OF STUDY .......................................................................................... 17
2.5 SCOPE OF THE PROJECT ............................................................................................. 17
2.6 LIMITATION .............................................................................................................. 17
2.7 LITERATURE REVIEW ................................................................................................ 18
2.8 METHODOLOGIES ..................................................................................................... 21
2.8.1 Data collection ................................................................................................. 21
2.8.2 Data presentation ............................................................................................. 22
2.8.3 Materials and equipment .................................................................................. 24
2.8.4 Methods ............................................................................................................ 25
2.8.5 Data analysis and discussion ........................................................................... 33
2.9 CONCLUSION OF THE PROJECT .................................................................................. 40
2.10 RECOMMENDATION OF THE PROJECT ...................................................................... 40

CHAPTER THREE ........................................................................................................ 41

3. THE OVERALL BENEFITS GAINED FROM THE INTERNSHIP ................... 41

3.1 BENEFITS GAINED IN TERMS OF IMPROVING PRACTICAL SKILL.................................. 41

3.2 BENEFITS IN TERMS OF UP GRADING THEORETICAL KNOWLEDGE .......................... 41
3.3 BENEFITS IN TERMS OF IMPROVING INTERPERSONAL COMMUNICATION SKILLS. ..... 42
3.4 BENEFITS GAINED IN TERMS OF IMPROVING TEAM PLAYING SKILL. .......................... 42
3.5 BENEFITS IN TERMS OF IMPROVING LEADERSHIP SKILLS. ....................................... 42
3.6 BENEFITS IN TERMS OF UNDERSTANDING ABOUT WORK ETHICS. .............................. 42
3.7 BENEFITS IN TERMS OF DEVELOPING ENTREPRENEURSHIP SKILLS .......................... 43

REFERENCE .................................................................................................................. 45

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
 List of figure
Figure 1 organization structure of the company ................................................................. 3
Figure 2 main products of the company. ............................................................................ 7
Figure 3 work flow of the company.................................................................................... 8
Figure 4 company sole attaching method ......................................................................... 14
Figure 5 observation problem of the company ................................................................. 22
Figure 6types of wastage and their size. ........................................................................... 23
Figure 7 diagrams of the project methods......................................................................... 25
Figure 8 shoe skatched photo ............................................................................................ 26
Figure 9 desighning measurement of the shoe .................................................................. 27
Figure 10 shoe component size on the last ....................................................................... 28
Figure 11diagrammatic methods of first sample .............................................................. 30
Figure 12 second sample method ...................................................................................... 31
Figure 13 sample three methods ....................................................................................... 32
Figure 14 shoe of the sample four and five....................................................................... 32

List of table
Table 1 raw materials and their main supplier .................................................................... 6
Table 2 accessory and their main supplier .......................................................................... 6
Table 3 footwear materials and their percentage .............................................................. 19
Table 4 Financial influence of leather grading ................................................................. 20
Table 5 monthly presented data by kilogram .................................................................... 24
Table 6 the amount of waste use for sample making ........................................................ 33
Table 7 shoe types and their size number ......................................................................... 34
Table 8 operation breakdown of first sample ................................................................... 35
Table 9 operation breakdown of second sample ............................................................... 36
Table 10 operation breakdown of sample three and four ................................................. 36
Table 11 operation breakdown of sample five .................................................................. 37
Table 13 cost consumption of the sample one and two .................................................... 38
Table 14 cost consumption of the sample five.................................................................. 38

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
List of acronyms
PU-Polyurethane

TR-Thermoplastic Rubber

EVA-Ethylene Vinyl Acetate

PVC-Poly Vinyl Chloride

KGW-Kilogram of Waste

S.SH-Sample Shoe

P.SH-Pair Shoe

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
 CHARTER ONE

1. Background of the company

1.1 History of the company
Ramsay shoe factory was established in 1993.it is manly mainly engaged in the
production of man’s shoe. it has about 500 employers .Ramsay has modern
organizational structure and every role under taken by qualified professionals in their
respective area .it is established to have an average annual turnover and asset value of
two million.

This factory produces both men’s and women’s shoe, width man’s shoes accounting for
more than 85% of output and the firm has production capacity of 2000 pairs per day.
Ramsay has its own outlets in various locations and the majority of its sales are made on
cash bases.

It is equipped with modern European machinery witch of course helped in production of

excellent quality human touched shoe. The company, apart from the management and
office staff is divided in to four section which are cutting, closing and lasting, and insole
and sole manufacturing.

The firms participate in international trade fairs and uses various government support and
promotion program to access international markets. Most customers, however, contact
the firm directly, both for small and bulk supply.

Ramsay has been exporting its products since 2005/06 and presently 90% of the total
revenue comes from export sales. It plans to focus even more on the export market, and
has under taken on expansion project with this in mind.

The firm vision to become one of the leading shoe manufactures, and its mission is
providing quality product to the international markets by using latest technology and its

1
objective is increasing market share, crating job opportunity by utilizing latest
technologies and improving productivity.

1.2 Vision of the company

The company vision is it becoming one of the leading shoes manufactures in Africa by
utilizing Ethiopians huge capacities and resources in the sector.

1.3 Mission of the company

Ramsay shoe factory providing quality leather products to the international market by
utilizing latest leather technologies, production and management systems.

1.4 Objectives of company

To Increasing its market share in the global leather and leather products industry
focusing on both quality and quantity.

Creating of job opportunities in the country

Introducing of modern machines and equipment’s

Improving productivity and management systems in the company

1.4.1 Strategy
To develop shoe market one step.

To continuously engage in employee and product development.

To invest advanced technology practical, economical and calculate cost consciousness

without compromising product excellence.

To give priority understands customers’ needs and meet their specific requirements.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
 1.5 Organization structure of the company

MANAGING DIRECTOR

PRODUCTIVITY
GENERAL MANAGER
IMPROVEMENT AND
SYSTEM DEVELOPMENT
SERVICE HEAD

HUMAN RESOURCE PRODUCTION MARKETING LOGISTI

FINANCE AND AND TECHNIQUE MANAGER CS
MANAGER ADMINISTRATION MANAGER MANAG
MANAGER ER

COST AND PRODUCTION PROD MARKET

PLANNING UCT RESEARC
BUDGET
AND CONTROL DESIG H
N&
&PROMOT
DEVEL
QUALITY ION
OPME
CONTROL
GENERAL NT
SALES
ACCOUNT

STITCHING CUTTING TECHNICAL LASTIING

Figure 1 organization structure of the company

1.5.1, Responsibility areas of systems

General Manager
To prepare budgets in collaboration with his/her management team and acquire resources
competitively and wisely.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Finance division

The main job of the finance department is control manage and corporate all the
company financial work, budget, financial analysis and cost determination.

Plan the expenditure and income of the company; when it’s approved the department
will go with an action.

Control all payment costs and incoming sales of the company. Control the cost
determinations will do as planed with expected value and Preparing annual, half year and
quarter year finical report.

Design & quality control service

To assure the quality of raw material and check the production process according to
specification. Assure the design and patterns are prepared according to the trend the
demand need.

Control the design of the products competitiveness to other company product design.

Production & technique division

To developed the work plan which can be done by the main division

Allow the machinery and tools to be maintained.

Do research on productivity and minimization of raw material and present to unit

manager.

Follow the modern technology and motivate workers creativity and working skills.

Quality control section

Production and technique Supplying good quality ranked production and alternative
design types which satisfy the customers need.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Marketing

Direct and control the activities of purchasing, sales and stores divisions with particular
emphasis on the import of raw material and responsible to control the out sailing and
marketing of the company.

Sales & purchase division

Organize and control sales and purchasing.

Assure the purchasing based on type and volume.

Assure the sales according to the rule.

Cleaning and settling purchasing documents.

To find comparatives of purchases

To introduced from deferent areas

To manages overall purchase

1.6 Raw materials and accessory of company

1.6.1 Raw materials and supplier

Raw materials Main supplier

Leather and Lining Colba tannery, Battu and tannery Ethiopia L.T
Out sole Turkey , Italy and local its out sole
In sole China and Italy
Shank steel Local
Last Turkey , Italy and local
Threads and adhesives Italy and turkey
Packaging material Local
Foam and Reinforcement plaster Turkey and local
Eve shit and thermoplastic counter China and turkey

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Shutter and thermoplastic hot melt Local , china and Italy
Elastic materials and stocks Turkey ,Italy and china

Table 1 raw materials and their main supplier

Quality parameter that should be checked is:-

• Raw material origin

• Flexibility and thickness
• Strength and weight

Accessory or shoe ornaments

Accessory or ornaments Main supplier

Eyelets Turkey and local
Zipper China and Italy
Button Italy and turkey
Insert steel Local , china and turkey
Buckle Turkey
Velvet Turkey
Other logo China and Turkey

Table 2 accessory and their main supplier

1.7 The main products of company to produce

Ramsay shoe factory produce deferent types of shoe. These all shoe have their models
and to produce throughout its life served the local and foreign customer by providing
different kind of shoe made by pure leather.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Figure 2 main products of the company.

1.8 main customer of Ramsey shoe factory

This company produce shoe for three main reasons.

1. To competitive with other company and produce shoe fore:-

➢ For police commission
➢ For bank worker
➢ For abay dame worker
➢ For other company workers
2. The company has its own shop.
✓ Shop one at Addis Abeba
✓ Shop two at Addis Abeba
✓ Shop three at Addis Abeba

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
 3. For exports other countries
➢ Turkey
➢ China
➢ Italy
➢ Kenya
➢ And other countries

Shoe made for export porpoises is

✓ Flexible
✓ Quality shoe
✓ Attractive
✓ Expensive

1.9 Over all work flow of the company

Designing

Upper Cutting Lining

Quality inspection

Preparation

Stitching

Lasting

De lasting

Finishing

Packaging

Figure 3 work flow of the company

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Shoe designing

Shoe designing is depending on the last and to understanding the sole is important for
preparation of a good shoe. Design shoe should be in aiding the muscle moments are not
the find the moment’s. For force attenuation and sock absorption is very important
parameters.

Comport parameter is functional comport fit, Freedom of moments ,extensibility of upper

thread surface of the foot in shoe and tensional effect on shoe flexibility ,energy
expenditure and Psychological appropriation of the Emotional aesthetic and solid
comfort.

Pressure distribution of shoe designing is design of the shoe theses quality and structure
dimension is very important parameter for footwear designing.Midsole should be
designed in proper manner, when the pressure is applied on the midsole it gets deformed
and regains, after load the midsole gets original shape. Our total body weight is evenly
distributed by design shoe and it case pressure distribution is not proper our body and
human foot meet lot of friction and injuries.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Figure 4 shoe last designing details

Cutting of shoe components

Designed, of course, directly on the standard, as shown in many of our descriptions, or

they may be cut separately, in which case they should be afterwards marked on the
standard for useful reference. This will avoid any deviation from the salient features of
the original when making further designs from the same standard. It also enables many of
the sections to be standardized, and where press clicking knives are installed, keeps their
where press clicking knives are installed, keeps their number down to the minimum and
to cut upper and lining components accurately and precisely

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Various parts from the upper sections are.

Winged toe cap

Vamp
Inside eyelet facing and outside eyelets
Inside quarter and outside quarter
Tongue and Blackstrap or back part

Cutting of lining components

The lining improves the shape retention of the shoe and guarantees comfortable
conditions in wear.

▪ Inside quarter lining and vamp lining

▪ Outside quarter lining,
▪ Tongue lining and Counter lining
▪ Vamp lining and sock lining
✓ Outer upper
Whole cut upper
Back part
✓ Inter lining
Vamp
Inside quarter
outside quarter

Cutting of shoe interlining component

The interlining serves as an additional lining and gives stability. Soft upper leathers are
reinforced by laminating (sticking on) an interlining to their reverse side.

▪ Vamp
▪ Inside quarter
▪ Outside quarter

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Quality inspection

Ready-made uppers used for any type of assembly must be tight to the toe and stretchy to
the sides. To achieve the desired result, we must ensure that the uppers are cut accurately
and in correct position unless components are back tracking.

Preparation

Preparation is the process of various cut components before ultimate stitching the
components received from the clicking department must be checked before it is passed to
the closing operation

Skiving: is an avoidable operation in shoe making, it is reduction in thickness of certain

edges of upper components to facilitate various treatments of edgesIt provides substantial
comfort in wear and helps in basic construction of upper.

Raw edge: these achieve a neater and slimmer edge, Reduce bulk and substance of closed
seam.

Stitching

Right kind of needle should insert and fix the needle bar, thickness of needle system.
Type, color and thickness of thread-needle and material requirement, thickness of upper
and bottom thread are not same, upper-40% needle thickness, where 10 number less than
upper.

Operator must thread the needle correctly.

The right stitch length must be checked and adjusted correctly.

The function of sewing machine is joining various parts of shoe and is achieved by seams
with the help of needle and thread. Feeding and guiding material to the machine done by
human, in sewing process the thread form loop and component are stitched.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Lasting of the shoe

Lasting has done in the following way

1. using adhesive throughout chloroprene or hot melt cement.

2. Using tack and staple heavy boots.

3. Using both adhesive and tacks adhesive in forepart, side lasting, tack-seat.

4.Insertion of stiffener: stiffener are used in the specific position of shoes to keep the
shape intact, toe and counter(seat position) are reinforced with synthetic material which
are fiber board or fiber coated material or impregnated thermo-plastic resin.

5. Back part molding: to molds all back parts

Sole attachment

In this company used cementing method these method is one of the most common
methods of attaching a sole to a shoe, a process in which the upper is shaped and
completed around the last and then the sole is attached without using a welt or any
stitching process. As with the previous two methods the upper is made and closed and
soaked. The insole, like the welted shoe, is made, trimmed and attached to the last.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Figure 4 company sole attaching method

De lasting of shoe

De lasting is process of removing last from the upper. This process is depending on types
of the last. Same times to break the last to remove shoe from the last and other ways
Easley remove by hand.

Finishing of shoe

Finishing of shoe is the process of giving ecstatic value to the shoe and complete cover of
outside shoe defect. After finishing, shoe will became more attractive and comfortable to
wear.

Quality checking

Finished shoe is must quality cheeked in order to giving a good market proposes as well
as customer services.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Packaging of shoe

In Ramsey shoe factory first shoe packed by their one pairs of shoe and then after it will
pack depend on their number and it will directly to go market, shopping or export
purposes.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
 CHAPTER TWO

2. Developing of the shoe from leather cutting wastage for Production in

Ramsay Shoe Company.
2.1 Introduction
Footwear is the sector which consumes the major part of leather and all footwear industry
is producing the largest quantity of leather wastes. The process and even the machines
involve similar production steps and technologies except for footwear for which the
assembling techniques can be sophisticated and it needs technical skill to produce shoe.

The largest quantity of waste in the footwear company is generated at the cutting step
due to following factories. The high price of leather, the reasons of this relatively high
cutting rate of a leather skin is never homogeneous and rectangular, The quality of the
leather at the side of the skin is generally poor, the shape of the pieces to be cut are
scarcely the same and the production delay does not allow the optimization of their
arrangement and the cutting rate values are generally lower because the material which
used for cutting is not good most of footwear factory used day cutter

Wastes generated by footwear company is depend on the type of materials being

processed (the types of shoe) In this process same shoe need a wide range of large
components of upper and it also depend on designing style of shoe these means same
designing is difficult to cut upper components and it need allot of leather.

Waste rate from cutting of upper leather is 25-35% and above which depend on grading
types of leather, grad one and grad two are no more waste but grad four and five is
difficult to cut upper components because of defect covered leather.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
 2.2 Statements of the problem
In the footwear company leather needs cutting to break the bulk of the leather in order to
cut required upper and lining shoe components .but leather cutting is difficult in nature of
irregularity, its defect, types of shoe components and most of footwear company is used
die cutter for cutting leather upper and lining shoe components precisely and to having
exact shape of the shoe pattern but these all factors increase leather cutting wastage in
Ramsay shoe factory.

2.3 Objective of the project

2.3.1 General objective

The main objective of this project is Introducing of leather cutting waste in to production
cycles in order to reduction of the loss of the company.

2.3.2 Specific objective

To minimize leather cutting wastage

To increase profit of the company

2.4 Significance of study

This project is directly related to the profit of the company, by activities range of shoe
type change, upper component size change and changes of materials which contains shoe.

The benefits of these projects are the company minimizes rejection of the cutting leather
and to make shoe, these increase production of the company products and to have both
work advantages for worker and for reduce company cost.

2.5 Scope of the project

The scope of this project is to treat leather cutting wastage more than half percent by
production of deferent types of shoe

2.6 Limitation
• Lack of same shoe materials.
• Shortage of same related documented data.
• Un willingness of the company to give my products.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
 2.7 Literature review
Introduction

Leather cutting waste in shoe factory is the remaining leather after cutting away the
desired contour. These are either too small or large parts of leather. The largest quantity
of waste in the footwear company is generated at the cutting steps because of the quality
of leather with poor quality leather; the cutting rate can be 5 points higher than normal.
Waste rate from cutting of upper leather is 25-35% and above which depend on grading
types of leather, grad one and grad two are no more waste but grad four and five is
difficult to cut upper components because of defect covered leather is not good for shoe
making but most of Ethiopia shoe company is not used grad one and grad two leather in
order to reduce production cost and to reduce leather cost but these increase leather
cutting waste therefore the company used technique to minimize these waste. Producer-
responsibility and other forthcoming environmental legislations, as well as increasingly
environmental consumer demands, are expected to challenge the way the footwear
industry deals with its waste. (Rags, 1996 Available online at: http://ideas.repec)

Footwear Types and Materials

The footwear industry is a diverse manufacturing sector which employs a wide variety of
materials to make products ranging from different types and styles of footwear to more
specialized shoes. Although there are many different styles and categories of shoes, most
of them can be described as having a subset of parts and components that are generally
common to all type of shoes. In this context, the basic parts of a shoe can be grouped
broadly into three categories

The Upper: which includes all parts of the shoe above the sole, such as vamp and
quarters, that are stitched or joined together to become a unit and then attached to the
insole and outsole of the shoe,

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Footwear Materials Percentage (%wt)

Footwear materials Percentage(%wt)

Leather 52
Polyurethane(PU) 9
Thermoplastic rubber(TR) 8
Ethylene vinyl acetate(EVA) 6
Poly vinyl chloride(PVC) 13
Textile fabric 7
Other adhesive 5

Table 3 footwear materials and their percentage

Material Improvements

The environmental properties of a product can be improved by simply choosing different

materials. Material improvements, under certain circumstances, can achieve significant
reduction of waste.

Upper parts: the upper is the top part of the shoe and largely determines its appearance.
It can be comprised of outer material, lining material, an interlining and reinforcements.
Knowledge
of the individual components is important in order, for example to be able to describe a
fault in detail to the shoe repairer or manufacturer. The outer upper is the visible part of
the upper. The various parts from the upper section are winged toe cap, Vamp, inside
eyelet facing, outside eyelet facing, inside quarter, outside quarter, Tongue and
Blackstrap or back parts.

Lining parts: The lining improves the shape retention of the shoe and guarantees
comfortable conditions in a wear are Vamp lining, inside quarter lining, outside quarter
lining, Tongue lining and Counter lining.

Shoes inter lining: The interlining serves as an additional lining and gives stability. Soft
upper leathers are reinforced by laminating (sticking on) an interlining to their reverse
side is Vamp, Inside quarter and Outside quarter.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Leather grading and waste percentage of Footwear Company

Leather grading: is the process of sorting out of finished leather into different groups
e.g. A, B, C or I, II, III etc., as per the quality and cutting value. Cutting value is defined
as the % usable area i.e. the % area of leather which is free of any defect. Cutting value
(C.V.) = 100 – % defective area% defective area = (Total defective area / area of leather)
 10 (World Footwear, Polyurethane: 2007, January/February, pp.27-31)

Table 4 Financial influence of leather grading

Shoe company cutting waste management

Effective management of waste is a rather complex issue made up of many components.

Although there is no blueprint that can be applied in every industrial sector but the scope
of these management is to applied specific products technology within the factory and
calculated for a specific products in a specific group of products or specific production
technology which shall be defend or the whole production of the company.

Proactive Approaches of waste management: In general, it makes far more sense to

reduce or even minimize waste than to develop extensive treatment schemes and
techniques to ensure that the waste poses no threat to the environment. Waste
minimization activities range from product and material changes, to process changes, to
changes in methods of operations. Although there is a wide range of proactive waste
management activities, there are two major improvement methods that could be applied
in the footwear industry in order to reduce or even minimize waste at the source, design
and material improvements.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Reduction of waste, also referred to as waste minimization, is a proactive approach
because simply, waste which is avoided needs no management and has no environmental
impact.

Reactive Approaches of waste management: Total waste elimination is not possible.

There will always be some waste that cannot be prevented at the source. Where waste
material is produced, an optimal end-of-life treatment option must be selected with the
lowest possible risks to human health and the environment. This management option
brings different impacts to different parts of the environment like reuse or recycling.

Design Improvements: Waste minimization strategies should start at the beginning of a

product’s life cycle, here in the product design phase using design improvements by
depending on components of upper or to identifying cutting wastage. Design
improvements in the footwear sector could have significant impact on environmental
quality and could reduce the amount of materials needed, thus reducing the amount of
waste that need to be handled at the end of the lifecycle. Also a footwear product which is
designed for ease of disassembly will make reuse and recycling of its components and
parts easier, thus reducing the amount of materials disposed into easily and wisely().

2.8 Methodologies

2.8.1 Data collection

Primary data collection methods

Observation: I have observed that the company generated leather cutting waste, quality
of leather or leather grading, upper cutting components, materials used for cutting of the
shoe components and types of shoe which prepared in company.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Figure 5 observation problem of the company

Interviewing

Personal interviewing: I have asking and discussed about the problem with operators,
company managers, and company advisor in the factory.

I have used different question by listing and direct communication with workers and
understanding of all question and their response.

2.8.2 Data presentation

Types of leather waste which generated in cutting room is deferent from their size, these
all waste is default to make shoe unless it treat for other purposes.

Leather size Function area

Small size leather waste ------------------------------- not usable

Medium size leather waste---------------------------- usable

Large size leather waste-------------------------------- usable

Extra large leather waste------------------------------ usable

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Figure 6types of wastage and their size.

To used weekly generated leather cutting waste, these waste is not constantly generated
in daily because of it depend on the quality of leather and the types of shoe, its amount is
also depend on the production rate, there are low production time, medium production
time and high production time . These data is presented at the medium production time.

Week in the Day in week Waste in kg Mean value in Total value

one month Monday 115 kg within day in kg within
Tuesday 103 one week
Wednesday 98 111.33
1st week Thursday 127
Friday 123 667.99
Saturday 102
Monday 112
2nd week Tuesday 127 111.66
Wednesday 89 670
Thursday 117
Friday 123
Saturday 102
Monday 87
3rd week Tuesday 137 100
Wednesday 105 600
Thursday 92
Friday 106
Saturday 75

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
 Monday 114
th
4 week Tuesday 94
Wednesday 84 90.33 542
Thursday 65
Friday 109
Saturday 76

Table 5 monthly presented data by kilogram

The total kilogram of leather usable waste which generate in cutting room in one month
is:-

(667.99+670+600+542) kg =2480kg of usable waste at the low production time.

2.8.3 Materials and equipment

Materials used to shoe designing are:

➢ Last
➢ Scotch
➢ Tap
➢ Steel rule
➢ Pencil
➢ Divider
➢ A1 and A4 paper
➢ Steel cutter

Materials used to shoe making are:

✓ Leather upper and leather lining

✓ Textile foam fabric and reinforcement materials
✓ Eva, sole, insole, shank steel and eyelet.
✓ Threads
✓ Adhesive
✓ Alcohol, color and shoeless

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Ornaments and shoe accessory

Shutter
Eyelets
Velvets
Other ornaments

2.8.4 Methods

minimize component Sketching shoe Add same upper

value

Designing measurement

technical designing

Shoe making

Figure 7 diagrams of the project methods

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Step 1 sketching of shoe

Sketching of the shoe on the A4 paper by using of pencil, steel rule, from these steps shoe
picture must upping around toe spring area because of comfortable for moving.

Figure 8 shoe skatched photo

✓ Within these steps to minimize components or make multiple components

✓ Add same upper values like straps, zipper and shutter in order to reduce upper
components, for functional and decorative porpoises.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Step 2designing measurement of shoe

1 To attached scotch on the last.

2 To find center of the shoe these means half part of shoe.

3 To find ball girth point by holding of last on the designing table.

4 To find center of the vamp point using of ball girth, from the outside move 15mm to toe
spring and from inside move 15mm to heel lift.

5 To find back height by use of size+18 mm and across the line at the half of the ball
girth.

Figure 9 desighning measurement of the shoe

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Step3technical designing

This step needs technical skills because of the designing of shoe on the last and all
components must minimize and upper value introduced in these steps.

Shoe must be giving form on the last and to give letter of the components

Figure 10 shoe component size on the last

1 directly take designed last copy and attached on the pattern paper these means standard
pattern and giving size number, last model, date and name of designer and slot it.

2 make standard patterns to assigning all measurement including last allowance and
slotting all shoe components.

3 cut all shoe upper and lining pattern by using of standard slotted pattern.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Step 4 shoe making

❖ Cutting
❖ Quality checking
❖ Preparation
❖ Stitching
❖ Lasting
❖ De lasting
❖ Finishing

I have used to make five shoe samples from 1kg of small leather size cutting waste.

Shoe size and upper value

➢ Sample one size 42 adult shoe------------- using straps.

➢ Sample two size 42 adult shoes------------using zipper.
➢ Sample three size 27 kids shoe -----------using shutter.
➢ Sample four size 31 kids shoe------------using back straps and shutter.
➢ Sample five size 36 female court shoes---- using deferent color leather.

I have used one kg of the leather cutting waste to produce five samples of the shoe.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Sample one

Standard pattern shoe pattern upper components

Stitching straps Attaching straps Zigzag stitching

Stitching all components shoe

Figure 11diagrammatic methods of first sample

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Sample two

Designed shoe pattern of the shoe

Shoe Upper components

Using zipper to minimize of the components and as decorative accessory

Figure 12 second sample method

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Sample three

Shoe designing standard patterns stitching of shoe

Shoe out sole attaching reinforce inserting

Figure 13 sample three methods

Samples four and five

These samples are the same methods to like above shoe making procedure.

Figure 14 shoe of the sample four and five

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
 2.8.5 Data analysis and discussion
Prepared shoe from one kilogram of small leather size cutting waste is deferent from their
size of pieces, consumption of upper components and sizes of shoe

✓ Two single of adult shoe

✓ Two single of kids’ shoe
✓ one single of females’ shoe
Consumption of the wastage used for shoe production

Prepared shoe Shoe size number Upper consumption by kg

Adult shoe sample one 42 0.18

Adult shoe sample two 42 0.15

Kids shoe sample three 31 0.12

Kids shoe sample four 27 0.14

Female shoe sample five 36 0.123

Table 6 the amount of waste use for sample making

The amount of waste used from one kg to prepared six samples of shoe is

0.18+0.15+0.12+0.14+0.123=0.713kg. w

The amount of UN usable waste from one kg is

1kg .w-0.713kg.w

=0.287kg. w

From this value to calculate five pair of shoe is

0.713kg. w =5 S.SH

1.426kg.w=5p.sh

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
From above data annually generated leather cutting waste is 2480kg.

The total numbers of shoe will be prepare from these waste is

When from 2kg.w 5 pairs of shoe prepared and 0.574kg of UN usable waste generated.

From this value to calculate annually generated waste

2kg= 5p.SH

2480kg.w= 6200 p.SH

The amount of waste generate from 2480kg.w is

2kg.w= 0.574kg

2480kg.w=711.76kg of UN usable waste.

The amount of waste treated for shoe production is

2480kg.w – 711.76kg.w=1768.24kg.w

Shoe types and its grading for production

Types of shoe Size No No of shoe Total consumption Total consumption of

of waste
Adult shoe 37-43 1240
Leather used by kg Generated by kg

Adult shoe 37-42 1240

Kids shoe 25-28 1240

Kids shoe 28-32 1240 1768.24 711.76

Female court 34-37 1240

Table 7 shoe types and their size number

From above table 71.37% of leather cutting waste treated and 28.7% of waste generated

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Operation breakdown

The shoe operation breakdown started from the cutting section.

✓ Cutting
✓ Quality checking of upper
✓ Preparation
✓ Stitching
✓ Lasting
✓ De lasting
✓ Finishing

Sample one adult Operation sequence Machine used Time needed

shoe in minute
Cutting Cutting of upper , By hand use of 5m
lining and knife
reinforcement .
Quality inspection To inspect all area of Checking of 1m
the upper. defect by eye
Preparation Skiving, row edging Using of skiving 2.5m
and zero skiving. machine
Stitching Stitching of zigzag, By post bad lock 7m
straps, lining and stitch machine
tongue.
Lasting Inserting reinforcement By using 1.5m
and to last the upper. Hydraulic pulling
machine

De lasting Holding of shoe and use of 0.5m

remove the last from Hydraulic last
the shoe. slipping mc
Finishing Polishing Use of brush 0.5m

Table 8operation breakdown of first sample

Sample two Operation sequence Machine used Time needed in

adult shoe minute
Cutting Cutting of upper , By hand use of 5m
lining and knife
reinforcement .
Quality To inspect all area of Checking of defect 1m
inspection the upper. by eye

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Preparation Skiving, row edging Using of skiving 2m
and zero skiving. machine
Stitching To stitching multiple By post bad lock 6m
components. stitch machine
Lasting Inserting reinforcement By using 3m
and to last the upper. Hydraulic pulling
machine

De lasting Holding of shoe and use of 0.5

remove the last from Hydraulic last
the shoe. slipping mc
Finishing Polishing Use of brush 1m

Table 9 operation breakdown of second sample

Sample three Operation sequence Machine used Time needed in

and four kids minute
shoe
Cutting Cutting of upper , By hand use of 4m
lining and knife
reinforcement .
Quality To inspect all area of Checking of defect 1m
inspection the upper. by eye
Preparation Skiving, row edging Using of skiving 1.5m
and zero skiving. machine
Stitching To stitching toe puffing By post bad lock 4m
binder &multcoponents stitch machine
Lasting Inserting reinforcement Hydraulic pulling 3m
and to last the upper. machine

De lasting Holding of shoe and use of o.5m

remove the last from Hydraulic last
the shoe. slipping mc
Finishing Polishing Use of brush 1m

Table 10 operation breakdown of sample three and four

Sample five Operation sequence Machine used Time needed in

female court minute
shoe
Cutting Cutting of upper , lining By hand use of 5m
and reinforcement . knife
Quality To inspect all area of the Checking of defect 1m
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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
inspection upper. by eye
Preparation Skiving, row edging and Using of skiving 1.5m
zero skiving. machine
Stitching Stitching of multiple By post bad lock 4m
components stitch machine
Lasting Inserting reinforcement Hydraulic pulling 2.5m
and to last the upper. machine

De lasting Holding of shoe and use of 0.5m

remove the last from the Hydraulic last
shoe. slipping mc
Finishing Polishing Use of brush 1m

Table 11 operation breakdown of sample five

Cost sheet

Total cost = Material cost + Labour cost + Over head cost

Over head cost = Indirect cost

Labour cost = Pattern maker + Marker maker + Operator…

Material cost = leather cost + Tread cost + Accessory cost

Consumption of upper used by kg and consumption of lining used by square fit.

Material for sample one and two Cons/per Total cost

Lining 1.5sqft 24
Socks 0.70sqft 11
Stiffener include sock pad 0.12sheet 2.50
Thread 43m 1.50
Eyelet 12 1.50
Adhesive & alcohol 6ml 2.50
Eva 1 pair 2.00
Shank steel 1pair 1.00
Shank board 1 pair 2.00
Shoe lass 1pair 3.20

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Sole 1pair 65
Mid sole 1pair 2.50
Foam For collar 0.50
Total 119.2

Table 12 cost consumption of the sample one and two

Material for sample three and four Cons/per Total cost

Lining 0.75sqft 10
Socks 0.4sqft 5.5
Stiffener including sock pad 0.72 sheet 1.50
Thread 25m 1.50
Eyelet 8 1.00
Shank steel 1pair 1.00
Adhesive &alcohol 4ml 1.50
Eva Pair 1.00
Shank board Pair 2:00
Eyelet thread Pair 3:20
Sole Pair 45:00
Mid sole Pair 2:00
Foam Pair 0.5
Total 76.70
Table 13 cost consumption of the sample three and four

Material for sample five Cons/per Total cost

Lining 0.75sqft 10
Socks 0.4sqft 5.5
Stiffener including sock pad 0.72 sheet 1.50
Thread 25m 1.50
Adhesive &alcohol 4ml 1.50
Sole Pair 45:00
Mid sole Pair 2:00
Total 65.20

Table 14 cost consumption of the sample five

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Labour cost

Designing cost _____________

Marker making cost ____________

Operating cost for adult shoe 20 birr and for kids and female court shoe is 15 birr.

To calculate all cost

Total material cost need to prepare five pair shoe is

76.70+76.70+119.2+119.2+65.20=457, birr

Total operation cost need to prepare five pair shoes is

15+15+20+20+12.5=82.5, birr

Over head (indirect cost) needs for five pair of shoe is 15, birr

Total cost needs for production of five pair of shoe is554.5

Total cost need to prepare 6200pais of shoe is

For 5p.sh=554.5, birr

6,200 =687,580, birr

To calculate annually profit

Sample one and sample two price is 250, birr, sample three and sample four price is 200,
birr and sample five price is 160, birr

Total price of five shoes is 1060, birr

Total price value of 6200 shoe is1,314,400, birr

Profit =price-total cost =1,314,400-687,580 =626,820, birr.

From these project company gain annually minimum626,820, birr.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
 2.9 Conclusion of the project
From this project I can conclude that the bulk of the leather cutting waste in the
production room is not treated in the long period of time and it transported other place for
storage, but we can use technical designing, minimizing of shoe upper components and re
introduced for shoe production cycles in order to gets benefits for company. By this
method more than half percent of waste is treated and company gain benefits.

2.10 Recommendation of the project

During the production time the upper components must cheeked quality inspection
because of there are many defect on the waste.

The shoe produced from waste is it must attractive, to combine different leather and add
same decorative accessory in order change to the many.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
 CHAPTER THREE

3. The overall benefits gained from the internship

3.1 Benefits gained in terms of improving practical skill
The major skill I got from this internship program is the practical skill. I got this skill
when I work in different sections of the company designing, cutting stitching, lasting and
finishing section.

Improving skills in work shop activities such as machine operation and I had the chance
to work practically this include shoe designing during my practice and I had gat the skill
of shoe design and pattern making which I had not got before what make different is
there is a practical evaluation or checkup of the fitting and what it will look after the
pattern were cut, stitched and I had the chance to touch and identify different types of
leather with their identical property used for shoe making.

Practically I get the chance to skill up the skill of operating machines I never seen before
and I never operated before like splitting machine, lasting machine, toe lasting and most
of machines. Each activity increases self-confidence because I had got a practical skill in
many activities and this decrease confusion during employment.

3.2 Benefits In Terms of Up Grading Theoretical Knowledge

During the formal learning process when I was in university I gained a vast theories and
other scientific ideas but offer I began the internship in footwear company I work closely
with my partners and I revised about the previous theoretical knowledge’s by
practically working.

The Basic Benefits I up Grades my Theoretical Knowledge is

• I gained basic knowledge about shoe making process.

• I learn how to machine and materials of the company.
• I learn how identify upper leather and checked of its quality.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
 3.3 Benefits In Terms Of Improving Interpersonal Communication skills.
I met different persons that have worked on their work in company and these include
administration, plant manager, company owners, chiefs of each department and operators.

I communicate with worker the way of asking questions which aren’t precisely
understood during observation, understanding their diplomatic/technical words relative to
scientific words.

Communicating and discussing with workers/employers/ and any other person are very
important in order to conduct this research peacefully effectively in the company.

3.4 Benefits gained in terms of improving team playing skill.

This skill helps to solve problems occurred in the factory easily and in a group member
accepting group members’ idea and way important role.

I gain team Work ethics include not only how one feels about their job, career or
vocation, but also how one does his/her job or responsibilities. This involves attitude,
behavior, respect, communication, and interaction; how one gets along with others.

3.5 Benefits In Terms Of Improving Leadership Skills.

In this company I seen leaderships are they come able to speak up themselves and
express to feeling , freely ,directly ,appropriately, improve recognize, overcoming self-
imposed obstacles and they can able to manage to motivate through different ways of
communication. So I said thank you strong leadership to helps me understand what
makes leader act the way they do support, motivate, and share experience way of self-
study and how becomes effective leader.

❖ Organizing of group worker.

❖ Way of assembling worker.
❖ Handling the worker and solving the problem.

3.6 Benefits in terms of understanding about work ethics.

In the company understanding of work ethics is being on time and giving of values on
hard work and diligence it also believes in normal benefit of work and its ability to
enhance. However, in this company some people loss their ethics. It may be due to

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
personal case or the company leadership system. Generally, work ethical employee is a
key to productivity. This is to near for a factory to be productive; all of the employees
have to be disciplined and ethical in their working environment. Common ethics I
improved in this internship are follows Punctuality in time in work.Notto be absence in
work without permeation, be responsible of the work and be accountable of the work.

3.7 Benefits In Terms Of Developing Entrepreneurship Skills

It enables I Know varies environmental conditions of the factory and types of
technologies used, Identify products required in the market, and ways of shoe making in
vireos type in to varies items.

o Problem solving and job creativity.

o Establishment of business center of our way.
o Financial and accounting.
o Self confidence and willingness of work.

This skill is the skill that every person must have especially a student like me .I gets this
skill from the owner of the company like job creation in team, machine maintain and
product development systems.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
4 RECOMMENDATIONS FOR THE COMPANY
I recommended for the company most of un improved thing which is unplanned
problems in the company.
✓ Technological based machines not available in the company.
✓ There is no more machine maintenance there for company must take care
for the machine.
✓ No utilization like air conditioning in the company it will be installed.
✓ Company appreciate worker motivation is essential to achieve the goals of
the products.
✓ Company improve product development methods based on customers
demand is important.
✓ Company produce fashionable shoe and searching of markets is important.
✓ Organization structure is not improve therefore company organized this.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING
Reference
1. Rags, 1996 Available online at: http://ideas.repec.org/p/hhs/gunwpe/0017.html
(accessed 06 March 2007).
2. World Footwear, Polyurethane: Today and Tomorrow, World Footwear, 2007,
January/February, pp.27-31.
3. Worn-Again, Available online at:www.antiapathy.org/wornagain/home.html,
(accessed 06 March 2007).
4. www.worldfootwear.com

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY 4th YEAR LEATHER ENGINEERING