Standard Deep Well Owners Manual Rev E1
Standard Deep Well Owners Manual Rev E1
Standard Deep Well Owners Manual Rev E1
com
Table of Contents
Product Specifications ................................................................ 4
Collage of Contents .................................................................... 6
Installation Options .................................................................... 7
Standard Pump Installation Instructions .................................... 8
Addendum A: Heavy Duty Pump Head and Handle Option ...... 16
Addendum B: Pressurizing Kit Installation Instructions ............ 17
Addendum C: Tamperproof Installation Instructions ............... 19
Addendum D: Conduit El Installation Instructions .................... 20
Addendum E: Reducer Bushing Kit Option ............................... 21
Additional Installation Tips ....................................................... 22
Appendix
Detail A: Standard Pump System Parts Breakdown .................. 24
Detail B: Standard Installation with a Pressure Tank ................ 25
Detail C: Weep Hole Location Diagram..................................... 26
Detail D: Pump Assembly Exploded View ................................. 27
Detail E: Pump Assembly Part Listing ....................................... 28
Standard Cylinder
• Overall Length: 22.5” (24.25” with plastic screen installed)
• Diameter: 1.5”, 2”, 2.5” and 3” available
• Output & Weight: See table below
Cylinder Diameter 1.5" 2" 2.5" 3"
Output per stroke 4 oz. 8 oz. 12 oz. 20 oz.
Cylinder Weight 3 lbs. 3.5 lbs. 4.5 lbs. 6 lbs.
Contents
• (1) – 304 Stainless Steel Pump Head
• (1) – 304 Stainless Steel Bottom Plate Kit
• (1) – Deep Well 304 Stainless Steel Standard Cylinder with safety rope
• (1) – Schedule 120 PVC Drop Pipe and 3/8” Stainless Steel Rod (in 8’ lengths sufficient to
reach approximately 20’ below your static water level)
• (1) – Brass Hose Bibb Cap
• (1) – Installation Paddle
• (1) – Rod Retrieval Tool
• (4) – Socket Set-Cup Point and Cup Point Cover
• (1) – Installation Manual
Installation Options
Warning – You must comply with your local plumbing code.
Contact a certified plumber if you have questions about proper
plumbing codes in your area.
Before you begin the installation of your new pump, open the box and inspect the contents.
Verify that you have received everything that you ordered. If there is anything that is missing or
doesn’t match, please call Bison Pumps immediately to correct the situation (1-800-339-2601).
Record your Deep Well Pump Serial Number on the front page of this manual.
Location – Before deciding on the location of your pump, you should consider whether you
intend to use it to pressurize your home water system. If you do, then you should consider the
location of your pressure tank drain valve or other access location (i.e., yard hydrant or outside
faucet) in relation to the pump’s location. Our Optional Pressurizing Kit (55-001-0-03-01) or
Check Valve with pressure gauge (55-001-0-01-01) would have to be installed onto the spout of
the pump and a hose ran from the pressurizing kit to the access location for your pump to
pressurize the water system. Be certain that you have an accessible path from the pump spout
to the water system access point and clearance for handle functionality. See Addendum B and
Detail B for more information.
Step #1: Verify there is proper space for the hand pump and standard cylinder
Drop Pipe and Rod:
For the optimum ergonomic position, it is best to have approximately 12”-18” of casing above
ground (See Detail A). During the installation, you will need a clean space to layout the drop
pipe & rod and standard cylinder. When performing maintenance of the standard cylinder all
the drop pipe & rod will have to be removed. Ensure there is sufficient room to accommodate
this.
Standard Cylinder:
The Bison Pump standard cylinder that you purchased requires a certain amount of space inside
the casing. Review your packing slip to verify the size of standard cylinder that you ordered. If
your well casing already includes a submersible or jet pump, TURN OFF THE ELECTRICITY to
the pump. Remove the existing well cover or seal and set it aside. Measure the space available
in the casing for the standard cylinder to pass by. If it exceeds the diameter of your standard
cylinder, then you are ready to proceed. However, if the available space is smaller than your
standard cylinder then you either: A) Lift your submersible pump or deep well jet assembly and
foot valve out of the well casing to allow the Bison Pump Standard Cylinder to pass by the
Pitless Adapter or other obstructions in your well casing. Or B) Select a smaller Bison Pump
standard cylinder that will pass through your available space.
Supplies required: Measuring tape, gloves, potentially Teflon tape, a felt pen, Installation
Paddle & Rod Retrieval Tool (both included with pump system), wire splicing kit
Note: If more than 14 lengths of drop pipe & rod will be installed, a mechanical means of
lowering them into the well is recommended.
If you are installing the pump in a well casing specifically dedicated to a hand pump (well does
not contain a submersible or jet pump) go to STEP #4. Otherwise proceed with Step #3.
Verify the electricity is off to the submersible or jet pump before beginning the
installation of the Bison Hand Pump
Step #3: Wiring for the submersible or jet pump
Be sure to shut off power to the electric submersible pump. Locate and close the electric
submersible supply line valve.
Bison Pumps offers two Conduit Pulling Elbows (Conduit El), one for top mount with wires
coming out the top of the well pump adapter: Top-Mount Electrical Conduit El (Bison Part #
55-200-1-09-01) and one for side mount with wires coming out of the side of the casing: Side-
Mount Electrical Conduit El (Bison Part # 55-200-0-09-01). If you purchased either of these
from Bison Pumps, follow the instructions in Addendum D for installation.
In both cases the wire is enclosed in conduit once outside the well casing. Disconnect the PVC
conduit coming from the ground up to the existing well adapter. Loosen bolts on the existing
well adapter and remove it. Now there should be access to the electric submersible pump wires
inside the well casing. Secure the wires below the wire nuts and disconnect or cut wires.
Now is a good time to locate and mark the hole location if using the side mount conduit el. A
normal ideal location is in the pump handle direction, slightly offset to the left or right. Ensure
that the side mount conduit el and wires will not interfere with the pipes inside the well casing.
The Side Mount Conduit El can be installed at this time (See Addendum D). After installation,
pass the electrical wires through the drilled hole in the side of the well casing and splice
together inside the well casing. Reconnect the PVC conduit coming from the ground up to the
well adapter. Continue with the installation of the Bison pump system.
See Step 12 for when to install and pass electrical wires through the Top Mount Conduit El.
Step #4: Unpack Standard Cylinder and Drop Pipe & Rod
Unpack the Bison pump system Standard Cylinder, Drop Pipe & Rod, Rod Retrieval Tool, and the
Installation Paddle. Verify that all items ordered were received by comparing the contents
with the supplied packing slip.
Standard Cylinder: The standard cylinder will be shipped inside the box with the pump head.
Remove the standard cylinder from the box. TAKE EXTRA CARE WHEN HANDLING THE
STANDARD CYLINDER TO NOT DAMAGE THE BODY. The standard cylinder will have a rope tied
around it for safety. This rope will be used to secure the standard cylinder as it is lowered into
the well. Remove the plastic plug from the end of the standard cylinder. Using the Rod Retrieval
Tool (thread it onto the cylinder piston rod) pump the piston 3-4 times, listening for a ‘burp’
sound. If you do not hear a ‘burp’ sound, stop and call Bison Pumps before proceeding. After
checking for the ‘burp’, pull the rod out of the piston until approximately 8” of the rod are
exposed. Remove the Rod Retrieval Tool and set the standard cylinder aside once completed.
DO NOT REMOVE THE ROPE. See Details F & G for exploded views and part listings of the
standard cylinder assembly.
Drop Pipe & Rod: Depending upon your order there could be multiple boxes of Drop Pipe &
Rod. Open the box and remove a section of Drop Pipe & Rod. In the inner and outside end of
each section there will be plastic plugs. When the time comes to use the Drop Pipe & Rod all
plastic plugs must be removed first.
Each section is eight (8) feet long and has a bell on one end. The “bell end” goes “up” and will
be used to hold the pipe system with the Installation Paddle. See Details H & I for exploded
views and part listings of the drop pipe & rod assembly.
Weep hole: If you live in an area that experiences freezing temperatures you will need to add a
weep hole to the PVC Drop Pipe below your frost line. First you will need to determine the
depth of the frost line in your area. Add that figure, in inches, to the height of the casing above
the ground. You now have the total depth needed to be at the frost line in your area. Add
another 9” to this figure to ensure you are below the frost line.
Remove a drop pipe & rod section from the boxes. Remove the rod from the drop pipe. Starting
at the bell end, measure the distance calculated from the bell end and mark with a felt pen.
Using a cordless or electric drill with a 1/8” drill bit, drill a hole in the side of the PVC drop pipe
(note to only drill the hole in ONE side). Shake the PVC drop pipe to clear out any debris from
drilling the hole.
Note: This section of drop pipe with the weep hole is normally attached to the
pump head. See Detail C for the Weep Hole Location Diagram.
STEP #6: Connect the Standard Cylinder to the first piece of Drop Pipe & Rod
Note: when you receive your rod the coupling nut will already be tightened
securely.
One person should hold the standard cylinder (with the lift
rod protruding about 8” outside the top cap) straight up and
down. The second person will hold the Drop Pipe & Rod
straight above the standard cylinder with the “bell end”
pointed up (It is important to maintain a straight line between
the cylinder lift rod and the pipe rod so that they can be
screwed together). The person holding the standard cylinder
will grasp the rod end with the Coupling Nut and screw it onto
the Cylinder Lift Rod. The cylinder lift rod should butt against
the pipe rod inside the coupling nut. Using ½” and 9/16” open
end wrenches, tighten the locking nut on the Cylinder Lift Rod
against the coupling nut. Be sure to tighten the 3/8" stainless
steel jam nuts on both sides of the rod coupling (using a 9/16”
open end wrench).
Verify that the paddle is sitting in the middle of the casing with the rope in the slot. Be careful
that the rope and any wires remain in the slot through-out the installation process to prevent
cutting of the rope or wires by the paddle.
Be certain that the section of drop pipe and rod attached to the pump head has the weep hole
installed.
Remove the Bison pump head from the shipping box. It will have a plastic plug on the bottom
water inlet; remove and discard this plug. Also remove the Brass Hose Bibb Cap (Detail D – Item
13) and set aside until needed later.
STEP #12: Attach the Bison Pump Head to the Drop Pipe & Rod
Note: Be sure that the last rod is sticking up out of the drop pipe and is held in
place by the vice grips.
One person should hold the pump head over the well casing straight above the last drop pipe &
rod. The other person will screw the 3/8" rod that is protruding from the last drop pipe into the
bottom of the ½” lift rod protruding from the bottom of the pump head. This is best
accomplished by spinning the lift rod into the 3/8” rod threads. Tighten these rods together
using a 7/16” open end wrench on the flat cut into the lift rod and the vice grips holding the
3/8” rod. Thread the lock nut up against the lift rod and tighten using a ½” and 9/16” open
ended wrench.
The person holding the pump head should raise the pump head until the eyelet on the end of
the lift rod is against the gland nut on the top of the pump head. They should brace themselves
for the weight of the drop pipe & rod.
The other person should quickly remove the vice grips once the other person is ready. Then
slowly lower the pump head inlet pipe into the bell of the PVC drop pipe. The person holding
the pump head should turn the pump head clockwise to screw the inlet pipe into the PVC drop
pipe while the other person holds the PVC drop pipe. Hand tighten the inlet/PVC connection.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
Note: Orient the spout to the desired location before moving onto the next step.
If using the Top Mount Conduit El, now is the time to install it onto the well pump adapter (See
Addendum D). Then, pass the electrical wires through the ¾” NPT hole in the top of the well
pump adapter and splice together inside the well casing. See Step 15 for connecting the PVC
conduit coming from the ground to the top mount conduit el.
The safety rope needs to be tied to the pump head. First untie the rope from its secure location
being sure to have a good hold on the rope so as not to drop it. Tie the end of the safety rope
to the 1/4" eye bolt on the underside of the well pump adapter (See Detail A). Put all remaining
rope inside the well casing.
Lift pump system, remove installation paddle, and slowly set the well pump adapter onto the
casing, squarely and straightly; then evenly tighten the four (4) stainless steel nuts on top of the
well pump adapter. These should be tightened in an alternating diagonal sequence where #1 is
tightened first, then #3, then #2, then #4 and repeated until all four are tight. Screw the four (4)
Socket Set-Cup Point all thread screws into the side of the well pump adapter to secure it to the
casing. Check to make sure the pump head is square and straight on the well casing; making
sure all the screws are tight. Place the four (4) plastic cup point covers over the Socket Set-Cup
Point all thread screws of the well pump adapter.
STEP #16: Using your Bison deep well pump for the first time
First remove the cap on the spout. Then, while depressing the handle with one hand, remove
the chain hook with the other hand. Slowly begin to pump the handle. It could take several
strokes depending on the depth of your well to initially prime the pump. Once primed, 2-3
strokes should produce water out of the spout.
If water comes out of the top of the pump, the gland nut (Detail D – Item 17) is likely too loose.
Tighten the gland nut by hand in ¼ turn increments and try pumping again. Repeat this process
until water ceases to flow out of the gland nut. Do not overtighten as this may cause difficulty
in pumping your hand pump or damage to your lift rod.
Pump the handle on your Bison Deep Well Hand Pump and enjoy a cold glass of water directly
from your well!
If you are currently treating the water in your home, remember that the water
you pump directly from your well is untreated water. Bison Pumps recommends
that you have your water tested to be sure that it is good quality potable
drinking water.
*Bison Pumps offers a Heavy Duty Pump Head and Handle Option designed for wells with a
static water level greater than 250 feet or in high usage applications. It can be added to any of
the deep well pump systems but must be ordered when the pump system is ordered.
The Heavy Duty Pump Head and Handle Option includes:
2. Close off the water source to the pressure tank from an electric pump. When
pressurizing begins, the pump will draw from the water source. Water system access by
electric pumps must be closed so that water is only accessible by the hand pump.
3. Connect the hand pump to the pressure tank. To pressurize your water system, connect
the Check Valve (to prevent water backflow), Pressure Gauge (to know when the
pressure tank is full), Bleed-off Valve (to safely relieve pressure) and a Potable High
Pressure Water Hose (to transfer the water) to the spout of the hand pump. Connect
the hose to the hydrant or another line feeding the pressure tank. (See Detail B)
Bison Pumps recommends using our Pressurizing Kit which contains all the required
components. After the Pressurizing Kit is installed, open the drain valve on the pressure
tank. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE HOSE FROM THE CHECK VALVE OR THE CHECK VALVE
FROM THE SPOUT WHILE THE PRESSURE TANK DRAIN VALVE IS OPEN. Doing so will
cause all water to flow out of the pressure tank.
4. Determine the amount of pressure that your pressure tank requires to be full. For most
pressure tanks this is 40 to 60 PSI. The pressure inside your pump will be higher than
under normal operating conditions. The pump’s Gland Nut (Detail D – Item 17) must be
adjusted to prevent leakage at the point where the Lift Rod exits the Gland Nut.
To adjust the Gland Nut for pressurization, begin pumping water into the pressure tank.
If water leaks during pressurization, tighten the gland nut in ¼ turn increments until
leaking stops. Continue pumping while watching the Pressure Gauge until the desired
pressure is reached. Do not over tighten the gland nut as it could cause the pumping
action to be more difficult or cause damage. Close the pressure tank drain valve to close
off water access from the hand pump.
The hose is under pressure from the pressure tank drain valve to the Check Valve at the
pump spout. Before removing the hose, slowly open the bleed valve on the pressurizing
system. Be aware that there will be water spillage at this point. Prepare the area for
excess water by having a bucket available to catch the water from the bleed-off valve
and hose. Once the immediate pressure is released, then the hose can be detached
from the pump and/or pressure tank.
5. Use your water system. With the pressure tank full, you can use any water fixture in
your home. Be aware that you only have the amount of water that can be held in the
tank available. Therefore, you should conserve the amount of water used to minimize
the need to refill the tank by pressurization. When the tank pressure is too low for
normal usage, you will need to repeat the pressurizing process.
6. To return to use of electric pump reset the water flow valves to accept water only from
the electric pump. Turn the power on to the electric pump to allow it to begin normal
operations.
7. To return the hand pump to normal operating condition: Loosen the gland nut until
water leaks during normal pumping action. Next hand-tighten the gland nut in ¼ turn
increments until leaking stops. This will be the ideal setting for the gland nut and ease of
pumping operation. It is not necessary to use a wrench to tighten the gland nut. Do not
over tighten as it could cause the pumping action to be more difficult or cause damage.
1. Place the well pump adapter together with the pump head on the well casing in the
desired orientation and make sure it is level.
2. Screw in the truss head screws (Item 2) into the well pump adapter countersunk holes
(Item 4) until they bottom out against the sides of the casing, which should score the
casing and leave a mark showing the hole drilling locations. Loosen and remove the
truss head screws (Item 2). Raise the pump head and support it on the installation
paddle.
3. Center punch the two marks left on the well casing with a 7/32” drill bit. Then use a 5/8”
drill bit to drill the two holes through each side completely. It is important that these
holes are drilled straight, not on an angle. Apply a small amount of silicone to the rim
of the white plastic boots (Item 1), and then insert into the 5/8” holes. Push in tightly to
seat.
4. Reinstall the pump head and pump adapter back on the well casing, being careful not to
pull the white boots out of the casing. Align the two drilled holes in the well casing with
the countersunk holes (Item 4) on the pump head and pump adapter.
5. Install the truss head screws (Item 2) into the well pump adapter countersunk holes
(Item 4) and tighten using the truss bit tool driver (Item 3) that is provided. Do not force
or overtighten the screws or the driver tool. If excess force is necessary, recheck the
drilled holes and ream if necessary. Then try to install the screws again. They should
screw in easily.
6. Tighten the remaining nuts and lock bolts of the well pump adapter as per the
installation instructions.
a) With the power OFF, disconnect the wires coming out of the top of the well from the
power source. Leave enough wire to pass through about 2 feet of conduit. Be sure to
secure the wire to prevent it from falling into the well casing.
b) The Top-Mount Conduit El will ship fully assembled. Disconnect the male threaded
adapter on the end of the assembly and thread it into the ¾” NPT hole on the top of the
well pump adapter until hand tight. This will take the place of the plastic electrical plug
(Detail D – Item 9) in the well pump adapter.
c) Insert the rest of the conduit assembly into the open end of the adapter as it was
shipped.
d) Pass the wire from outside the casing through the Conduit El to the inside of the casing
where you can re-connect the wires to the electric submersible pump.
Note: It may be easier to pass wires through the Conduit El by removing the cover on
the Conduit El. Be sure to reattach the cover after the wires have been passed through.
Side-Mount Conduit El
a) With the power OFF, disconnect the wires inside of the well from the power source. Be
sure to secure the wire to prevent it from falling into the well casing.
b) Using a bi-metal hole saw, drill a 1 1/8” hole through the side of the well casing at least
6” below the top of the casing (note that the sides of the well pump adapter will cover
the first 2” of casing).
c) Remove the Side-Mount Electrical Conduit El from the box. Remove the plastic nut,
plastic Inner Block, and gasket leaving the plastic Outer Block intact. From outside the
casing, insert the plastic threaded nipple through the 1 1/8” hole in the side of the
casing. On the inside of the casing, slide the gasket over the plastic threaded nipple first,
then the plastic Inner Block (be sure that it is oriented with the curved side facing the
inside of the casing). Then secure it with the plastic nut. Do not overtighten the plastic
nut.
d) Pass the wire from outside the casing through the Conduit El to the inside of the casing
where you can re-connect the wires to the electric submersible pump.
Note: It may be easier to pass wires through the Conduit El by removing the cover on
the Conduit El. Be sure to reattach the cover after the wires have been passed through.
2. If you live in an area that experiences freezing temperatures, be sure to drill a 1/8" hole
below your frost line in the PVC drop pipe. See Step #4 – Weep Hole & Detail C for more
information.
3. On the top of the pump body is a gland nut which the lift rod slides through when
pumping your hand pump. This nut should be hand tight. If there is leaking through this
nut when pressurizing a vessel, then tighten this gland nut in quarter turn increments
until leaking stops. Do not overtighten as this may cause difficulty in pumping your hand
pump or damage to your lift rod.
If the gland nut squeaks apply a small amount of Extra Virgin Olive Oil. This is used for
lubricating the pump internally. Do not use petroleum products to lubricate the pump.
4. You will notice a handle locking loop is attached to your pump handle along with a
stainless-steel chain and hook. If you choose, you can use either a paddle lock or a cable
lock to secure the handle to the pump when not in use. Locking the handle is optional.
5. You will also notice that a brass hose bibb cap is shipped with the pump head. This cap
can be tightened to the hose bibb to keep insects out when the pump is not in use.
Caution: In the winter months, be sure to let the pump drain back completely before
securing the brass cap. You may not want to use the cap during the winter.
6. If you experience any deficiencies or malfunction of your Deep Well Hand Pump, please
contact Bison Pumps for assistance and answers to your specific questions or concerns.
Appendix
Note: Depending on Well Casing height, and the frost line depth, it is possible for the weep hole
location to be on the 2nd section of drop pipe instead of the 1st (the drop pipe connected to the
pump head). Be sure to add the well casing height to the frost line depth to ensure the weep
hole location is below the frost line.
2.5” Cylinder:
Item No. Part Number Description Quantity
1 04-000-1-45-22 Philips Sheet Metal Screws 12
2 04-000-5-75-02 Check Valve 2
3 04-002-3-71-04 Piston Cup Seal 2
4 04-022-1-68-05 Internal Snap Ring 2
5 04-139-3-70-01 O-ring 4
6 51-200-1-01-02 Cylinder Body 1
7 51-200-1-01-03 Top End Cap 1
8 51-200-1-01-04 Bottom End Cap 1
9 51-200-0-01-05 Filter 1
10 51-200-1-02-01 Piston Assembly 1
2” Cylinder:
Item No. Part Number Description Quantity
1 04-000-1-45-22 Philips Sheet Metal Screws 12
2 04-000-5-75-01 Check Valve 2
3 04-002-3-71-03 Piston Cup Seal 2
4 04-022-1-68-01 Internal Snap Ring 2
5 04-103-3-70-02 O-ring 4
6 51-200-2-01-02 Cylinder Body 1
7 51-200-2-01-03 Top End Cap 1
8 51-200-2-01-04 Bottom End Cap 1
9 51-200-0-01-05 Filter 1
10 51-200-2-02-01 Piston Assembly 1
1.5” Cylinder:
Item No. Part Number Description Quantity
1 04-000-1-45-32 Philips Sheet Metal Screws 12
2 04-000-5-75-04 Check Valve 2
3 04-002-3-71-02 Piston Cup Seal 2
4 04-022-1-68-03 Internal Snap Ring 2
5 04-103-3-70-01 O-ring 4
6 51-200-3-01-02 Cylinder Body 1
7 51-200-3-01-04 Top End Cap 1
8 51-200-3-01-04 Bottom End Cap 1
9 51-200-2-01-05 Filter 1
10 51-200-3-02-01 Piston Assembly 1