Utm JSML Print 5.0

DOCUMENTATION
OF
“TEXTILE INTERNSHIP”
At
Universal Textile Mills

And
Jaipuria Silk Mills Limited
SUBMITTED BY:
Ankit SP (BFT/20/400)
Anshika Satpathy (BFT/20/325)
CH Priyanka Reddy (BFT/20/1393)
UNDER GUIDANCE OF:

Asst. Prof. Nandkishore Baraik (College Mentor)
Mr. Ishwar Thiyaneswaran (Industry Mentor)
Mr. Prahlad Rudagi (Industry Mentor)
SUBMITTED TO:
DEPARTMENT OF BACHELORS OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,
BHUBANESWAR, ODISHA- 751024
Ph- 0674-2492997 Fax- 0674-2490992
Website- www.nift.ac.in
2022
UNIVERSAL TEXTILE MILLS AND
JAIPURIA SILK MILLS LIMITED
SUBMITTED BY:
Ankit SP (BFT/20/400)
Anshika Satpathy (BFT/20/325)
CH Priyanka Reddy (BFT/20/1393)
UNDER GUIDANCE OF:

Mr. Nandkishore Baraik (College Mentor)
Mr. Ishwar Thiyaneswaran (Industry Mentor)
Mr. Prahlad Rudagi (Industry Mentor)
SUBMITTED TO:
DEPARTMENT OF BACHELORS OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BHUBANESWAR
UTM JSML NIFT BHUBANESWAR

UTM JSML 2022
SELF CERTIFICATION
This is to certify that Mr. Ankit SP, Ms. Anshika Satpathy, Ms. CH Priyanka Reddy of
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar, have successfully completed
their Internship in Textile Sector in the partial fulfillment of requirement for the
completion of 4 years Graduation Program “Bachelors of Fashion Technology” as
prescribed by the Department of Fashion Technology (DFT), National Institute of
Fashion Technology. The Textile Internship Report is the record of authentic work
carried out by them during the period of 6th June to 20th June 2022 at Universal
Textile Mills and Jaipuria Silk Mills Pvt. Ltd. under my mentorship.
Signature:
Name: Mr. Nandkishore Baraik

Designation: Assistant Professor
Department of Fashion Technology
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UTM JSML 2022
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
NIFT provided us with a great opportunity of learning about textile industry by
allowing us to pursue our internship in the Universal Textile Mills Limited and Jaipuria
Silk Mills Bangalore. We would also like to extend our heartfelt gratitude to our mentor
Mr. Ishwar Thiyaneswaran sir and Mr. Prahlad Rudagi For guiding us throughout the
internship.
We also take the opportunity to express for gratitude to Mr. Nandkishore Baraik Sir our
faculty guide for giving us good guidelines for assignment through numerous
consultations. We would also like to expand our deepest gratitude to all those who have
directly or indirectly guided us in the writing this report Which include all the
employees workers those who are working in the Jaipuria silk mills and our internship
mates for their support.
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UTM JSML 2022
CONTENT
1 Introduction 1
1.1 Introduction 2
1.2 Objective 3
1.3 Research methodology 4
1.4 Abstract 5
1.5 Internship schedule 6
2 Industry Profile 7
2.1 Industry details 8
2.2 Location 8
2.3 About the industry 9
2.4 The vision 10
2.5 Basic Information 10-13
2.6 Industry branches 13-18
3 Various departmental Process 19

3.1 Production department 20
3.2 Service department 21
3.3 Other departments 22
4 Industry layouts 23
4.1 UTM Industry layout 24-25
4.2 JSML Industry layout 26
4.3 Weaving preparatory process area layouts 27
4.4 Dyeing area layout 27-28
4.5 Weaving area 1 28
4.6 Weaving area 2 29
4.7 Velvet making and embroidery 29
4.8 Embroidery (UTM main building) 30
4.9 Inspection area 30
4.10 Sewage treatment plant 31
5 The design studio 32

5.1 Designing 33-35
6 Merchandising Department 36
6.1 Process flowchart 37
6.2 Merchandising process and activities 38-40
6.3 Role of merchandiser 40-41
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7 Accounts Department 42
7.1 Process Flowchart 43
7.2 Accounts department working and activity 43-44
8 Water and power supply 45

8.1 Water 46
8.2 Power 46
9 Supply chain management 47

9.1 Introduction 48
9.2 Supply chain management 48
9.3 Process model for vendor selection 49
9.4 Process flow 50
9.5 Steps of SCM system 50
10 Raw Material 51
10.1 Raw material store 52
10.2 Inhouse yarn store 53
10.3 Process flowchart 53
10.4 Various raw materials 54-57
11 Yarn Winding 58
11.1 Winding of yarns 59-60
11.2 Key points 61
12 Dyeing 62
12.1 Dyeing 63
12.2 sample dyeing lab 63
12.3 Flowchart od dye recipe sample preparation 64
12.4 Shade matching after dyeing 65
12.5 Color matching cabinet 65
12.6 Dye storage 66
12.7 Hank dyeing 67-69
12.8 Cheese dyeing 70-72
12.9 Dyeing of different fabric in UTM JSML 73-76
12.10 Drying 77-81
13 Effluent treatment plant 82

13.1 ETP 83
13.2 ETP steps 83-86
13.3 ETP flowchart 86
13.4 Recovery plant flowchart 87
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14 Coning and warping 88

14.1 Coning 89
14.2 Warping 90-92
14.3 Components of warping machine 92-94
14.4 Important requirements of warping 95
14.5 Machine used in UTM JSML warping 95
15 Weaving 96
15.1 What is weaving 97
15.2 Preparing loom for weaving 97-99
15.3 types of weaving machine used in JSML 100-108
16 Embroidery 109
16.1 Introduction 110
16.2 Computerised embroidery machine 110
16.3 Workflow of design and manufacture 110
16.4 Flowchart of embroidery workflow 111
16.5 Embroidery room layout 112
16.6 Steps of machine embroidery 113
16.7 Machines used in UTM JSML 114-116
16.8 Rectification process of embroidery defect 117
17 Printing 118
17.1 Textile printing 119
17.2 Digital printing 119
17.3 Pre treatment 119
17.4 Reason for pre treatment 119
17.5 Printing process 120
17.6 Post process 120
17.7 Flowchart of printing process 121
17.8 Machine used 121
17.9 Colors used for printing 122
17.10 Bottlenecks in process of printing 122
18 Inspection 123
18.1 Quality control 124
18.2 Inspection machine in jaipuria 125
19 Package and shipment 126

19.1 Package and shipment 127
19.2 Activities 128
19.3 Shipment 129
19.4 Flowchart 130
19.5 Overseas shipment 131
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20 Warehouse 132
20.1 Introduction 133
20.2 What happens to the rejected pieces 133
20.3 Flowchart 134
21 Miscellaneous 135
21.1 Solar power project 136
21.2 Agro waste reuse 137
21.3 Glossary 138
22 Conclusion 139
23 Bibliography 140
24 Annexures
1. Yarn samples i-vii
2. Yarn list viii-x
3. Transport bill xi
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UTM JSML 2022
LIST OF FIGURES
FIG. DESCRIPTION PAGE

NO. NO.
2.1 Location of UTM JSML 8
2.2 UTM Building Entrance 13
2.3 JSML Building Entrance 14
2.4 VAYA Meeting Room 14
2.5 Glamis Border 15
2.6 Dunbar Border 15
2.7 VAYA Lucca 16
2.8 VAYA Castel del monte 16
2.9 VAYA Arezzo (Amazonia) 16
2.10 VAYA Arezzo (Melinoe) 16
2.11 VAYA Mozart 16
2.12 VAYA Store House 16
2.13 VAYA Meraki 18
2.14 VAYA Venezia 18
2.15 VAYA Fantasia 18
2.16 VAYA Madison 18
4.1 UTM Ground Floor layout 24
4.2 UTM First floor layout 25
4.3 JSML layout 26
4.4 Weaving Preparatory process area layout 27
4.5 Dyeing area (Ground floor) layout 27
4.6 Dyeing area (First floor) layout 28
4.7 Weaving area 01 layout 28
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4.8 Weaving area 02 layout 29

4.9 Velvet making and embroidery area layout 29
4.10 Embroidery (UTM main building) layout 30
4.11 Inspection area 30
4.12 Sewage Treatment Plan area Layout 31
5.1 Design making 34
5.2 MOOD 2022 34
5.3 Wilcom Software 35
5.4 Nedgraphics Texelle software 35
6.1 Billing Information 41
6.2 Fabric costing information 41
7.1 Different fabric costing details 44
8.1 Main Water pipeline 46
8.2 Power Supply unit 46
10.1 Raw material Store house 52
10.2 Yarn Store house 53
10.3 Silk Yarn 54
10.4 Cotton Yarn 54
10.5 Polyester Yarn 55
10.6 ATY Yarn 55
10.7 Linen Yarn 56
10.8 Viscose Yarn 56
10.9 Dori for Embroidery 57
10.10 Bamboo Yarn 57
10.11 SHIKSHA Yarn 57
10.12 Zari 57
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10.13 Lurex 57
10.14 Titan 57
11.1 Winding machine 59
11.2 Silk Winding Machine 59
11.3 Silk winding machine company 59
11.4 SSM Fast flex winding machine 60
12.1 Sample Dye containers 63
12.2 Manual dye sampling 63
12.3 Sample Dye workspace 63
12.4 Polyester automatic dye sampling machine 64
12.5 Colour reference booklet 64
12.6 Shade matching booklet 65
12.7 Shade matching Cabinet 65
12.8 Dye mixing 66
12.9 Dye storage container 66
12.10 Dye store house 66
12.11 Hank Dyeing 67
12.12 Swastik hank dyeing machine
a. 12 hanks
b. 1 hank 68
12.13 Tung Shing hank dyeing machine
a. 1 hank
b. 10 hanks
c. 3 hanks 69
12..14 Cheese dyeing mechanism 70
12.15 Packaging dyeing / Cheese dyeing machine 70
12.16 Dalal cheese dyeing machine 72
a. 4 kgs
b. 25 kgs
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12.17 Sample cheese dyeing machine 72

12.18 Ready to dye cheese 72
12.19 Hank dyed yarns 73
12.20 Dyed and dried yarns 77
12.21 Dalal Hydroextractor 78
12.22 Radio frequency drying machine 79
12.23 Monga Strayfield drying machine
a. Inlet
b. Outlet 80
12.24 Texfab drying machine 81
12.25 Hangers for natural drying 81
13.1 Collection tank 83
13.2 Temperature reduction tank 83
13.3 Equalization tank 84
13.4 Aeration tank 84
13.5 Clarification tank 84
13.6 Colour removal section 85
13.7 Decolourant tank 85
13.8 Carbon filter and sand filter 85
13.9 Evaporation tank 86
13.10 Multi effect evaporator 86
13.11 RO filter
a. Stage 01
b. Stage 02
c. Stage 03 87
14.1 SSM Preciflex Coning machine 89
14.2 Warping workspace 90
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14.3 Creels 92
14.4 Control device 93
14.5 Warping Drum 94
14.6 Beaming process 94
14.7 Servomatic vamatex warping machine 95
15.1 Weaving process 97
15.2 Staubli topmatic knotting machine 98
15.3 Drawing in process 99
15.4 Denting process 99
15.5 Alpha PGA dobby weaving machine 100
15.6 Diagrammatic representation of 4 repeat harness system
of jacquard loom 103
15.7 Staubli jacquard weaving machine 104
15.8 Velvet weaving process 105
15.9 Metex wireflex staubli velvet weaving machine 106
16.1 Stitching section 113
16.2 Embroidery section 113
16.3 Trimming section 113
16.4 Sewing line machine 113
16.5 Fabric inspection
a. Checking loose yarns
b. Spot removal using spotgun 114
16.6 Rolling machine 114
16.7 Embroidery machine workspace 114
16.8 SWF Korea Automatic embroidery machine 116
16.9 TAJIMA automatic automatic machine 117
17.1 MS JP5 EVO printing machine 123
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17.2 Colour cabinet of printer 123

17.3 Colour shade used in printer 123
17.4 Screen Printing Process 124
18.1 MOTEX stenter machine 127
18.2 ALMAC Rolling machine 128
18.3 ALMAC Decatizing machine 129
18.4 Ramisch kleinewefers Calendering machine 130
19.1 ALMAC inspection machine 133
19.2 Tetrachloroethylene 133
19.3 K1 spot remover 133
20.1 Velevt boxes with suspension unit 135
20.2 Borders 136
20.3 Rolls wrapped in packet yet to be kept in cartoon box 136
20.4 Cardboard outside (export outside India) 136
20.5 White packages outside (domestic transportations) 136
22.1 Solar panels for power supply 143
22.2 Agro waste reuse burning furnace
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UTM JSML 2022
LIST OF CHARTS
CHART DESCRIPTION PAGE
NO, NO.
2.1 Hierarchy of directors of UTM JSML 11

2.2 Hierarchical organization chart 11
3.1 Production department flowchart 20
3.2 Service department flowchart 21
3.3 Other departments flowchart 22
5.1 Design process flowchart 33
6.1 Merchandising process flowchart 37
7.1 Accounts department process flowchart 43
9.1 Vendor selection process flowchart 49
9.2 Supply chain management process flowchart 50
10.1 Raw materials movement process flowchart 53
12.1 Sample dye preparation process flowchart 64
12.2 Scouring process flowchart for cotton, viscose & linen 73
12.3 Dyeing process flowchart for cotton, viscose & linen 74
12.4 Degumming of silk process flowchart 74
12.5 Dyeing process flowchart for silk 75
12.6 Scouring process I flowchart for polyester 75
12.7 Scouring process II flowchart for polyester 76
12.8 Dyeing process flowchart for polyester 76
13.1 Effluent treatment plant flowchart 86
13.2 Recovery plant process flowchart 87
14.1 Warping process flowchart 91
16.1 Embroidery process flowchart 111
17.1 Printing process flowchart 121
20.1 Shipping process flowchart 137
21.1 Warehouse process flowchart 141
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UTM JSML 2022
LIST OF TABLES
TABLE DESCRIPTION PAGE

NO, NO.
12.1 Light sources of colour matching cabinet 67
12.2 Total number of hank Dyeing machine 68
12.3 Total number of cheese dyeing machine 71
12.4 Total numbers of Hydroextractors 78
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UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 01:
INTRODUCTION
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UTM JSML 2022
1.1 INTRODUCTION
The Indian textile industry has a great existence in the Indian economy. Textile
industry has a capacity to produce wide variety of products suitable for different
market segments, both within India and across the world. It has a significant
contribution to many national economies, encompassing both small and large-scale
operations worldwide.
Textile internship as a module in the course of Apparel Production emphasizes the

learning of the process in the textile industry which involves the major process of
procuring raw material, spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, printing, finishing,
testing and quality control measures. This internship revolves around observing the
functioning and processing at a textile manufacturing unit.
This document is mainly centralized on how various departments in UTM-JSML

industry are working. As a student from NIFT we require a lot of practical
knowledge. The practical knowledge helps to implement the theoretical aspects into
the practical world. This report contains overall working structure of the company
doing textile production.

UTM JSML 2022
1.2 OBJECTIVE
The main objective of this internship was to understand the concept of weaving,
dyeing, printing and textile testing and their quality aspects. The other reasons are to
get a feel of the work environment and to apply the knowledge taught in the
classrooms in real industrial situations.
The main objectives of this internship at the UTM-JSML industry was:

▪ Knowledge about the company.
▪ Understanding the company’s process flow in production.
▪ To understand various concepts of textile production
▪ To study the working environment of the industry.
▪ To study the departmental processes and their interrelation within the industry.
▪ To understand the complete textile manufacturing process mechanism and to run it
profitably.
▪ To get the practical interface of industry by applying theoretical concepts.
▪ In-depth study and understanding of all processes involved in textile production
and the machinery and equipment used.
▪ Quality checking, Inspection, packaging, shipping, storage, and waste management
well.

UTM JSML 2022
1.3 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

Research basically refers to a search for knowledge. One can also define research as a
scientific and systematic search for pertinent information on a specific topic. In fact,
research is an art of scientific investigation.
The overall functioning of UTM-JSML is studied and analyzed.
Primary Data:
Depending upon the nature of the problem, primary data can be collected through
various methods. In this study, personal interviews with officials of different
departments were conducted. In addition to this, on-site observation was the major
source of information.
Secondary Data:
Data collected from the company website, product profiles, etc.

UTM JSML 2022
1.4 ABSTRACT
This report is on textile internship at Universal Textile Mills and Jaipuria Silk Mills
ltd. The main focus of this internship was to closely understand the process flow of
the textile industry, from raw materials to finishing of the fabric. Therefore, we have
gone through various departments that are raw materials department, yarn winding
department, yarn dyeing department, warping department, beaming department,
knotting department, weaving department, inspection department, printing
department, embroidery department, packaging department, shipment department in
this time period.
In this internship, we practically observed the process and understood the minute
details of the process and how the textile industry works. We have gained knowledge
of this efficient working industry and its manufacturing and planning process. Under
this internship schedule, all the qualified appointed people, the workers and
employees helped and guided us in understanding and learning different aspects of
the industry.
Also, our mentor Ishwar Sir guided us to understand the human behaviour and how
to make them work with full efficiency.

UTM JSML 2022
1.5 INTERNSHIP SCHEDULE
DATE DAY TASK

06.06.2022 1 (MONDAY) OVER ALL FACTORY VISIT
07.06.2022 2(TUESDAY) HANK DYEING AND SAMPLE

DYEING
08.06.2022 3(WEDNESDAY) CHEESE DYEING, DRYING,

EFFLUENT TREATMENT
09.06.2022 4 (THURSDAY) WINDING, CONING, WARPING,

WEAVING PREPARATORY
10.06.2022 5 (FRIDAY) RAW MATERIALS,WEAVING

PROCESS, DOCUMENTATION
AND DOUBT CLEAR
13.06.2022 6 (MONDAY) EMBRIODERY, VELVET,

PRINTING
14.06.2022 7 (TUESDAY) QUALITY CONTROL
15.06.2022 8 (WEDNESDAY) DESIGN STUDIO,

MERCHANDISING
16.06.2022 9 (THURSDAY) PACKAGING, SHIPMENT.

WAREHOUSE
17.06.2022 10 (FRIDAY) BUDGETING AND COSTING
18.06.2022 11 (SATURDAY) DOCUMENTATION AND REPORT
20.06.2022 12 (MONDAY) REPORT SUBMISSION

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 02:
INDUSTRY PROFILE

UTM JSML 2022
2.1 INDUSTRY DETAILS

▪ Name: Universal Textile Mills and Jaipuria Silk Mills Pvt. Ltd.
▪ Status: Non-government, Private Limited Company
▪ Type: Domestic brand, import and export-oriented Industry
▪ Factory Location: 44, Gudahatti Main Road, Neralur Post, Attibele, Hobli,
Bengaluru, Karnataka, 562107
▪ Size of Industry: 20 Acres in total
▪ Directors: Nirmal Kumar Jaipuria (12 May 1995), Aditya Jaipuria (12 May
1995), Vikram Jaipuria (12 May 1995) and Saurabh Vijay KMP (26 August 2019).
▪ Total man power: More than 300 workers
▪ Competing companies: Arvind Ltd., Raymond Ltd., Karnataka Silk Industries
Corporation Ltd., Bombay Dyeing and Manufacturing Company Ltd., Vardhaman
Textiles Ltd., etc
2.2 LOCATION
Fig. .2.1 Location of utm jsml
UNIVERSAL TEXTILE MILLS-JAIPURIA SILKS MILLS LTD

44, Gudahatti Main Road Neralur Post, Attibele, Hobli, Bengaluru,
Karnataka- 562107
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UTM JSML 2022
2.3 ABOUT THE INDUSTRY

“Crafting memories one yard at a time, from homes to hotels to
museums”
Universal Textile Mills was founded in 1969 as a silk trading house by Mr. N.K.
Jaipuria and soon expanded to be one of the India’s leading weaving mills. UTM is a
three-generation-old mill located in Bangalore, India. In 2002, Jaipuria Silk Mills
Private Limited-‘JSML’ was established as a modern weaving mill with-in-house
capacity to produce fine multi-fiber woven draperies, digital prints and velvets for the
high end home décor market for export to top editors of Europe, United Kingdom,
United States, the Gulf, South Africa, Japan, etc.
Situated on a Twenty acres campus, UTM-JSML has in-house weaving machines of

jacquard, dobby and velvets, computer embroidery, digital printing, dyeing and
finishing facilities apart from the design studio, administrative offices and
warehousing.
UTM-JSML offers a wide range of embroidered, digital prints, woven designs and
velvets for Upholstery and Drapery. Depending on the client requirement they either
ship the product in fabric form or in the made-up form. Through their partners, they
have worked on multiple exclusive projects including Museum artwork restorations in
France, the Royal Collection by Designer’s Guild in UK made for Her Majesty The
Queen and special projects for His Highness the Aga Khan in addition to be used in
many of the luxury hotels in the world.
Innovation and design is the core of the Company’s strength. They have a large
design team comprising of artists, weave technicians and experienced textile
designers from prestigious institutions in India and abroad, all dedicated to the art of
creating beautiful textiles. The creative in-house design team also works in
collaboration with clients on bespoke projects to deliver unique products that serve
the specific needs of their clients

UTM JSML 2022
2.4 THE VISION

The vision if UTM-JSML is to achieve global presence in textile business, through
continuous product and technological innovation, customer orientation and a focus on
cost effectiveness, quality and services. The underlying target of the company is to
spread business across the globe and enhance lifestyles of people by providing a
better quality of textiles.
2.5 BASIC INFORMATION
▪ Associations: Indo German Chamber of Commerce

▪ Banks: State Bank of India
▪ Export area: Asia-Pacific, North America, West. Europe, Middle East Australia,
United States, France, Germany, United Kingdom, Portugal, Spain, Italy, Canada,
United Arab Emirates, South Korea
▪ VAYA Stores: Punjab, Haryana, Kerala, Uttarakhand, Delhi, UP, Rajasthan,
Maharashtra, Gujarat, Telangana, Chhattisgarh, Jharkhand, West Bengal,
Karnataka, Tamil Nadu.
2.5.1 REGISTRATION DETAILS
• CIN: U85110KA1995PTC017813
• Incorporation Date / Age: 12 May, 1995 / 26 Yrs.
• Last Reported AGM Date: 30 October, 2020
• Authorized Capital: INR 800.0 Lacs
• Paid-up Capital: INR 750.0 Lacs
• Type: Unlisted Private Company
• Category: Company Limited by Shares
• Subcategory: Non-Govt Company
2.5.2 DIRECTORS
• The company has 3 directors and 1 reported key management personnel.
• The longest serving directors currently on board are Nirmal Kumar Jaipuria,
Aditya Jaipuria and Vikram Jaipuria who were appointed on 12 May, 1995.
They have been on the board for more than 26.232876712328768 years.
• Nirmal Kumar Jaipuria has the largest number of other directorships with a seat
at a total of 2 companies.
• In total, the company is connected to 1 other companies through its directors.

UTM JSML 2022
Chart 2.1 Hierarchy of directors of utm jsml
2.5.3 HIERARCHICAL ORGANIZATIONAL CHART

A hierarchical organization is an organizational structure where every entity in the
organization, except one, is subordinates to a single other entity. This arrangement
is a form of a hierarchy. In an organization, the hierarchy usually consists of a
singular/group of power at the top with subsequent levels of power beneath them.
This organization is well managed when it comes to the posts of the workers. The
directors are the first persons in the hierarchy. Then are the managers of each
department. According to the departments, the posts change from department to
department.
Chart 2.2 Herarchial organisational chart

UTM JSML 2022
2.5.4 VITAL STATITICS
• Manpower: Each day 200 employees work in 2 shifts and general shift including
HR, Sampling, security, workers. The staff strength is 300-400
• Power Consumption: Rs. 5-6 lakhs Per month
• Water Required: 50,000-75,00 litres per day
• Fuel Required: Minimum 1 ton of groundnut waste, coffee husk briquette, wood
per day
• Output: 12-15,000 metres fabric per day
• Units turn over: Rs. 1-2 crores approx. per month
• Area of the plot: 20,000 square feet

UTM JSML 2022
2.5.5 FINANCIAL OVERVIEW
The turnover of Jaipuria Silk Mills was INR 45-50 Crore in the year 2020. After
the Covid-19 pandemic, it decreased to less than 40 crore. The net worth of the
company has increased by 0.84%. EBITDA of the company has increased by
89.56%. Total assets of the company decreased by -1.05%. Liabilities of the
company has decreased by -52.02%.
2.6 INDUSTRY BRANCHES
2.6.1 UNIVERSAL TEXTILE MILLS
Universal Textile Mills & Jaipuria Silk Mills is one of the largest silk exporters of
India and produces highquality jacquard, velvet, embroidered, and printed fabrics
suitable for the global upholstery and drapery market. Universal Textile Mills is a
private company incorporated on Monday, 01 January 1900 owned by Mr. Vikram
Jaipuria.
Fig. .2.2 utm building entrance
2.6.2 JAIPURIA SILK MILLS
Jaipuria Silk Mills is the main leading business of the Jaipurias. It is a Private
industry incorporated on 12 May 1995 in Bangalore. It is involved in Human
health activities Jaipuria Silk Mills Private Limited's Annual General Meeting
(AGM) was last held on 30 September 2019 and as per records from Ministry of
Corporate Affairs (MCA), its balance sheet was last filed on 31 March 2019.

UTM JSML 2022
It is a directorship company owned by Mr. Vikram Jaipuria. Directors of Jaipuria

Silk Mills Private Limited are Vikram Jaipuria, Nirmal Kumar Jaipuria and
Aditya Jaipuria.
Fig. .2.3 jsml building entrance
2.6.3 VAYA Homes

VAYA is a Bangalore based textile studio set up in 2018 by Universal Textile
Mills. It designs, curates, and produces luxury drapery and upholstery fabrics for
homes that are inspired by the sights and experiences that surround us. The
fabrics are a contemporary story of a robust legacy. For the past fifty years,
Universal Textiles have pushed the envelope to create gorgeous, decorative
fabrics that reflect this rich heritage. The delicate hand embroideries,
sophisticated silk jacquards, and bold designs originating from the mill brought
the industry into the limelight, making it one of India’s largest silk fabric
exporters.
Fig. .2.4 VAYA meeting room

UTM JSML 2022
The VAYA platform engages the budding talent that abounds in our country, and
harnesses the skill and techniques that the company has honed over decades to
present their absolute best to the world. With a truly Indian design aesthetic
colorful, sophisticated, and reflective of a long legacy of authentic creative
expressions, VAYA looks forward to delight and surprise with each new textile.
Borders Collection by VAYA HOMES-

1. Glamis Borders- These borders and trims are the thoughtful finishes that
elevate home décor from art to masterpiece, expanding the horizons of creative
expression with another layer of detail and uniqueness. Glamis is a celebration
of these timeless accents and their long enduring love affair with luxury soft
furnishings. A collection of borders resplendent with hand embroidered
beadwork, the tapes and borders of Glamis bring a magnificence that is hard to
match.
2. Dunbar - The best aspects of painstaking hand embroidery and innovative
machine work come together to create Dunbar, a peerless collection of borders
and trims. Clever weaves and tactile effects in exquisite colours, Dunbar’s
borders encompass a wide range of aesthetics, bringing a vitality and verve to
décor in style.
Fig. .2.5 Glmais border Fig. .2.6 Dunbar border

Source- utm jsml website Source- utm jsml website
Below are the new upcoming collections to be launched by vaya homes in

July 2022-
VAYA AREZZO MOZART
LUCCA MELINOE
-
CASTEL
DEL
MONTE
AMAZONIA
-
UTM JSML 2022
Fig. 2.7 VAYA Lucca Fig. .2.8 VAYA Castel del monte
Fig. .2.9 AREZZO Amazonia Fig. .2.10 AREZZO Melinoe Fig. .2.11 VAYA Mozart
Fig. .2.12 VAYA Storehouse

UTM JSML 2022
I. LUCCA
• Highly durable velvet with non marketing finish

• Perfect upholstery fabric because of comforting touch.
• The rich colours available in this quality are vulnerable to fading if
exposed to sunlight for long time.
• Gsm- 460
• Composition- 100 % PES
• Martindale count is very high i.e. 1,00,000
II. MELINOE
• Composition- 100% Polyester

• Used mainly for furnishings.
• GSM- 405
III. CASTEL DEL MONTE
• Composition- 100% PES

• GSM- 340
IV. AMAZONIA
• Composition- 100% Polyester

• GSM- 460
V. MOZZART
• Mechanical loom finished fabric with 100% polyester yarns.

• Shading, Uneven Construction, Neps, Inconsistencies are the character
and the natural beauty of the textiles.
• Only professional dry cleaning recommended.
• Fabrics used for wall coverings and draperies may exhibit more
variation.
• Direct sunlight on certain colour can cause colour variation, hence not
guaranteed against colour fastness and fading.

UTM JSML 2022
Fabric Collection by VAYA HOMES-

Some names of the collections are as follows:
1. Fantasia
2. Basics
3. Etienne
4. Hudson Bay
5. Hemisphere
6. Madison
7. King’s Landing
8. Meraki
9. Venezia
10. Spectra
Fig. .2.13 VAYA Meraki Fig. .2.14 VAYA Venezia

Source- UTM JSML website Source- UTM JSML website
Fig. .2.15 VAYA Fantasia Fig. .2.16 VAYA Madison

Source- UTM JSML website Source- UTM JSML website
NIFT BHUBANESWAR Page-18

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 03:
VARIOUS
DEPARTMENTAL
PROCESS

UTM JSML 2022
3.1 PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
Raw
Materials
storage
Packaging Yarn
and Winding
Shipment and coning
Dyeing and
Finishing
Drying
PRODUCTION
PROCESS
Inspection Warping
Printing Weaving
Embroidery
Chart 3.1 Production department flowchart

UTM JSML 2022
3.2 SERVICE DEPARTMENT
Administration
HR- Human Resource
Accounts
Merchandising
CIVIL Engineering
MECHANICAL
Instrumental
ELECTRICAL
SAFETY Store
ETP
Chart 3.2 Service department flowchart

UTM JSML 2022
3.3 OTHER DEPARTMENTS
OTHER
DEPARTMENTS
QUALITY SUPPLY CHAIN

DESIGNING
CONTROL MANAGEMENT
Chart 3.3 Other departments flowchart

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 04:
INDUSTRY LAYOUTS

UTM JSML 2022
4.1 UNIVERSAL TEXTILE MILLS INDUSTRY LAYOUT

4.1.1 GROUND FLOOR
UP
Toilet Pantry
Meeting
Reception Lunch
Room
Design Gents Room
Ladies Gents
studio Ladies Toilet
Toilet Toilet Toilet
Waiting
Room
Toilet
Meeting
Room
Courier
And Toilet
Dispatch
Showrooms accounts
Samples UP
Showrooms
Courtyard
VAYA
Fabric
Godown
UP
Packing Record
and room
Dispatch
Section
cabin Server
room
Toilet
Dyed Yarn
Storage
Fabric Design
Storage Studio
Cooler with Air Cooler with Air Cooler with Air

UP
Compressor Compressor Compressor
SYMBOLS
FIRE EXTINGUISHER
FIRE HYDRANT
FIRE ALARM
Fig. .4.1 UTM Ground floor layout

UTM JSML 2022
4.1.2 FIRST FLOOR
Embroidery
Area DN
DN
Stores Lunch
Area
Cabin
Embroidery Area
Cabin
Cabin Cabin
SYMBOLS
FIRE EXTINGUISHER
FIRE HYDRANT
FIRE ALARM
Fig.4.2 UTM first floor layout

UTM JSML 2022
4.2 JAIPURIA SILK MILLS LIMITED INDUSTRY LAYOUT

Ramp Up
Finish Fabric
Weaving Preparatory Godown
Section
Yarn
storage Entrance
Lobby
Security
LIFT
Loading/
Spare Parts
unloading Storage
Yarn Storage
Godown
Yarn Storage
Loom Yard Loom Yard Sample

Room
Panel
Printing
Sample
Checking
section
Table
Storage
Ladies Toilet
Gents Toilet
SYMBOLS
FIRE EXTINGUISHER
FIRE HYDRANT
FIRE ALARM
Fig. 4.3 JSML layout

UTM JSML 2022
4.3 WEAVING PREPARATORY PROCESS AREA LAYOUT
Fig. 4.4 Weaving preparatory process area layout
4.4 DYEING AREA LAYOUT

4.4.1 GROUND FLOOR
Fig. 4.5 Dyeing area ground floor

UTM JSML 2022
4.4.2 FIRST FLOOR
Fig. 4.6 Dyeing area first floor
4.5 WEAVING AREA 1
Fig. 4.7 Weaving area 1 layout

UTM JSML 2022
4.6 WEAVING AREA 2
Fig. 4.8 Weaving area 2 layout
4.7 VELVET MAKING AND EMBRIODERY
Fig. 4.9 Velvet making and embroidery area layout

UTM JSML 2022
4.8 EMBRIODERY (UTM MAIN BUILDING)
Fig. 4.10 Embroidery( UTM main building) layout
4.9 INSPECTION AREA
Fig. 4.11 Inspection area layout
Page- 30
UTM JSML 2022
4.10 SEWAGE TREATMENT PLANT
Fig. 4.12 Sewage treatment plant layout

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 05:
THE DESIGN STUDIO

UTM JSML 2022
5.1 DESIGNING
Designing comprises of aesthetics added to enhance the beauty of fabrics. The design
studio is where the concept of a fabric takes birth. This is where the textile designers
develop designs according to the clients or for the brand collection. This department
is vital to push the process of production of fabrics.
Principle of working
▪ Determination in quality, pattern and colour types of the fabrics to be produced
every season.
▪ Domestic reduction is attended one season prior to delivery while that for export
one year before hand.
5.1.1 DESIGN PROCESS FLOWCHART
Chart 5.1 Design process flowchart

UTM JSML 2022
5.1.2 THE PROCESS

• First, A client is picked then a deep study and forecasting is done according to
the client’s needs.
• Then the textile designers propose the design. They deal with colors, patterns,
material aesthetics, etc. Mood boards and color palletes are made.
• A particular design is made in various colors to match the client needs and to
find out which out of the options is best.
• The people involved in the technical sector of this department turn the designs
into a machine fed format.
• Then the designs are sent to the MD for approval. The MD decides which
design would be applied in which technique.
• Then samples are developed. Sampling is a very important part of product
development. It is one of the key elements of the pre-production processes in
textile industries. This process includes details like product type, colors,
design detailing, etc.
• The sampling process takes different times according to client needs and the
design development.
• Then the samples are sent to the customers for approval, if any retouch is
needed, it is done or else it is sent to MD for approval and then the designs are
sent for bulk production.
• The UTM-JSML Design studio is not just limited to creating patterns and
colors for fabrics, the workers also specialize in color, computer designs,
creating template like pictures, slogans, textile art, etc.
• The industry also showcases the deign every year in a show. In 2022, this
show is named as ‘MOOD’
NOTE- Editors are there in the design studio to edit the designs made by
designers and reduce the total colors to be used in the designs. Many colors are
used in the designs out of which very less are selected and reduced by the editor.
Fig. 5.1 Design making Fig. 25.2 MOOD 2022

UTM JSML 2022
▪ Designers use the Wilcom Software for textile designing and design digitization.
▪ For embroidery punching also Wilcom software studio E3 is used by the industry
and for editing, Texcelle software is used.
▪ Net Graphics and Point Carre are the softwares used for implementing the
designs in jacquard techniques.
▪ This industry mainly makes 3 fabric design collections with around 300 samples
per collection, of their own per year excluding the customer orders.
▪ The company participates in Foreign Textile Fairs like Heimtextil Fair in
Januaries (Frankfurt, Germany), Proposte Textile Fair in Mays (Como, Italy) and
Mood Textile Fair in Septembers (Brussels, Belgium). Due to Covid-19
Pandemic, the company didn’t participate in textile fairs and only working for
clients.
▪ For a regular customer, a particular design is copyrighted and sold maximum for
tenure of 5 years. Most large scale companies apply this rule to the designs.
▪ So, every year more than 600 design samples are made out of which only a few
are selected
Fig. 5.3 Wilcom software Fig. 5.4 Ned Graphics Texcelle software

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 06:
MERCHANDISING
DEPARTMENT
Page- 36
UTM JSML 2022
6.1 PROCESS FLOWCHART
Chart 6.1 Merchandising process flowchart

UTM JSML 2022
6.2 MERCHANDISING PROCESS AND ACTIVITIES

Merchandising is the process of planning right merchandise at the right time, in the
right quantity and at the right price to meet the needs of the company’s target
customer.
Merchandising involves a constant watch of the production of the apparel products. It
is an intricate and detail-oriented job. If done properly, it can be very rewarding.On
the contrary, if it is done with a lack of knowledge, insufficient skills and
thoroughness, it can be destructive. As the job of the merchandiser is to have constant
eye on the manufacture and communicate with the manufacturer to get the goods as
per the requirement of the buyer.
The ultimate aim of the apparel merchandising department is to satisfy customer
needs.
These are the activities done in this department:

• Internal & external communication
• Sampling
• Preparing internal order sheets
• Preparing purchase orders
• Getting approvals
• Advising and assisting production and quality department
• Taking responsibility for inspections
• Giving shipping instructions and following shipment.
• Internal and external communication:

A merchandiser must communicate with a variety of people, including suppliers,
nominated factory owners, fabric producers, and so on.
• Sampling:
For all garment merchandisers, sampling is one of the most vital jobs. Samples must
develop in accordance with the buyer's instructions in this case. Prototype samples, fit
samples, fit samples, photoshoot samples, salesman samples, size set samples, and other
sorts of samples should be generated here.
• Approval :
It is the other important task of merchandising. At first, lab dip should be done by
maintaining the buyer’s recommendation and submitted by the merchandiser to the buyer
for its approval. If it’s ok then the buyer approved it for running fabric production.
• Preparing internal order sheet:

Internal order sheets, such as costing sheets, booking sheets, and so on, are necessary for
an merchandiser to prepare.

UTM JSML 2022
• Preparing purchase order:

The merchandiser for the garments should prepare many forms of purchase orders
here, such as fabric, sewing thread etc.
• Assisting production and quality department:

A garment merchandiser must have to make a good relationship with the garment
production and quality department for smooth and fault-free production. This also
creates a great impact on shipping the product timely.
• Inspection:
Inspection should be done before shipping the product to the buyer. Here, the
merchandiser plays a significant role to inspect the product by using a strong quality
department or third-party quality inspector.
• Shipment:
It is the last and final task of an apparel merchandiser. Here, the garment merchandiser
advises various instructions to the commercial department about the shipment of a
garment export order. By maintaining those instructions, the commercial department
will ship the products to the buyer.
NOTE-
• For invoicing, the industry has its own software made in c++ which was developed
20 years back. There is a master folder (sample master) and fabric master for the
purpose.
• Sample master has the important information about the samples developed for the
customer.
• Sample master is used for producing new fabric i.e. for the new customers.
• Details in sample master include
o Finish weight
o color codes (given by the company)
o color description
o width of fabric
o quality of fabric
o color creation name
o process etc.
• The fabric master has information of purchased fabric like color no., weight (before
degumming), fabric/warp and weft composition, costing weight (after degumming)
• All the data entered here in the folders are then sent for weaving.

UTM JSML 2022
Some important functions performed by this department are:

• Providing management information
• Budgeting
• Garment costing
• Administration
• Management Information
6.3 ROLE OF MERCHANDISERS

• Role of Merchandiser with Buyer:
A garment merchandiser receives the tech pack and spec sheet from the buyer. He has
to work with various departments and prepare a validity report and a feasible cost. The
cost will be informed to the buyer, price is negotiated and confirmed. The purchase
order is then sent by the buyer along with the letter of credit. At the various stages of
samples, prints embroideries, and accessories are sent to the buyer for approval. Once
the buyer approves them. Goods are produced and shipped.
• Role of Merchandiser with Sampling department:

In this step, the garment merchandiser organises for the approval of the first sample,
which may be in only one size, the preproduction sample, which may be in jumping
size or the complete size set, embroidery, print approval, and placement approvals.
Any increase in measurement will result in an upcharge, which is examined and
validated on the measurement chart. All of the Buyer's modifications have been made
to the paper design. At this point, the fabric and accessories have been accepted.
• Role of Merchandiser with Purchase Department:
The purchase department is divided into two departments such as fabric and
accessories.
price management- Merchandisers collaborate with designers to manage the price of
a product according to the customers’ budget. For example, if the price of a product is
US$30 but the customer’s budget is US$20, the merchandisers and designers come
together and subtract some elements or change some materials and blend the fabrics
instead of using pure materials. As a result, the product is finalized at the cost of the
buyer’s budget. Because the price of the product usually depends on the materials,
extra work done and efforts. Usually, a 5% adjustment price is taken from the buyer to
compensate the price of samples which are sent to them for approvals.
Usually pricing is two types-
• FOB- pricing by company
• CIF- pricing by supplier
Usually, regular customers order 200-300 meters of one design of cloth in 2-3 colors in
one order with an approximate addition of around 100 meters per color. First time
orders can take up to 10 weeks to be fulfilled, regular customer’s orders can take up to
8-9 weeks to complete and orders with velvet weaving takes up to 12 weeks to
complete.

UTM JSML 2022
NOTE-
NORMAL COSTING- In normal costing the company usually keeps a profit of 25%
and then gives the budget to the buyer accordingly.
EXPRESS COSTING- express costing is meant for the regular and trustable
customers only, here the company shorts down the profit to approximately 17% to
18% and then gives the budget to the buyer. This cut down in profits is generally
done by the managing diector (MD).
Fig. 2.7 VAYA Lucca
Fig. 6.1 Billing information Fig. 6.2 Fabric Costing information
• Some regular customers of this industry are Kravet fabrics (USA), Mulberry,
Osborn and Little (UK), Overfalz Fabrics (Germany), Eva Fabrics, etc.
Merchandisers also look after the insurance of the orders that the company gets.

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 07:
ACCOUNTS
DEPARTMENT

UTM JSML 2022
7.1 PROCESS FLOWCHART
Chart 7.1 Accounts department process flowchart
7.2 ACCOUNTS DEPARTMENT WORKING AND ACTIVITIES

The payment process is the most important part of any industry. After an order is
placed, what amount to be paid when, depends on the customer-company agreement.
Usually, 30% advance of an order is taken. In special cases, the full payment is taken
before the shipment of order. All paper works and documentations starting from
taking orders, customer information, design details, shipment status, etc. are done in
this department. All follow-ups are taken care of by the merchandisers.
Accounts Departments is directly under the supervision of the top management.
However, they closely work with purchase, commercial and personnel department.
Information related to this department is highly sensitive and therefore all the
information regarding this department is not disclosed with others.
• Accounting department prepare payroll for employees, give payments to workers
and write checks for staffs.
• They manage accounts of the company.
• Maintain records of supplier payment and follow up with buyers for pending
payment.
• This department is involved in all kind payment and cash management.

UTM JSML 2022
The finance department is responsible for managing all the financial administrative
affairs of the company and has a very important influence on many of the policy
and commercial decisions taken by management. The financing of a company’s
operations require precise timely planning and control in order to ensure that
adequate funds and credits are available when needed.
This department is directly responsible for providing the management with up-to-
date information on the current and future financial status. Some typical reports
prepared for management are balance sheets, stock levels and values, production
costs, operating statements for different departments, cost rejects, returns etc.
(A) (B) (C)
Fig. 7.1 Fabric costing details
At UTM- JSML, there are five Accountants, two CAs, one junior officer and one
personal accountant for the Managing Directors.
They handle activities such as:
• Purchases, Credit cards
• GST, taxes, Sales finance
• Necessary bills and documentations
• Processing of invoice
• Clearing of bills
• Foreign remittance
The company has 40-50 crores of turnover with profit percentage being 12 percent.
Software being used are Tally, MS- Excel, ERP system, for processing payments,
stock issues and purchase details. The company invests in Stock market, Debt.
Investments and not equity

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 08:
WATER AND POWER
SUPPLY

UTM JSML 2022
8.1 WATER:
• Most of the water for the industrial use is taken from their bore well and rest of the
water is getting supplied from GHR water supply.
• Per day water consumption - 40,000 liters of water.
• From the total consumption of water, the company is able to re-use 60% to 80% of
water by purifying.
Fig. 8.1 Main water pipeline
8.2 POWER:
• Electricity taken from- BESCOM (Banglore electricity supply company).
• The company is also using electricity from solar which is also installed under
BESCOM.
• Unit consumption - 6,500 KWH (kilowatt hour) to 8,000KWH
Fig. 8.2 Power supply unit

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 09:
SUPPLY CHAIN
MANAGEMENT

UTM JSML 2022
9.1 INTRODUCTION
In today’s world of globalization many industries are building strong supply chains to
gain advantage over their competitors by offering the best value to their customers.
The supply-chain management (SCM) has become very critical to manage risk,
dynamism, and complexities of global sourcing. A totally integrated supply chain is
required for the company to get gain the maximum benefits.
9.2 SCM (SUPPLY CHAIN MANAGEMENT)

Supply chain is characterized by the flow of goods, services, money, and information
both within and among business entities including suppliers, manufacturers, and
customers. It also includes all types of organizations engaged in transportation,
warehousing, information processing, and materials handling. Sourcing, procurement,
production scheduling, manufacturing, order processing, inventory management,
warehousing, and, finally, customer service are the functions performed throughout
the supply chain. The ultimate goal of SCM is to meet customers’ demand more
efficiently by providing the right product, in the right quantity, at the right location,
on the right time, and in the right condition.
SCM aims four major goals:

1. Waste reduction:
2. time compression
3. flexible response
4. unit cost reduction.

UTM JSML 2022
9.3 Process Model for Vendor Selection

Suppliers are viewed as critical resources for the textile retailers. They have to be
managed to derive the maximum potential in the supply chain, and the selection of
the supplier is the most critical task in the supply management.
Chart 9.1 Vendor selection process flowchart

UTM JSML 2022
9.4 PROCESS FLOW

It includes various attributes –
▪ Production target
▪ Sales
▪ Marketing
▪ Factory planning
▪ Warehouse
▪ Logistics
Chart 9.2 Supply chain management process flowchart
9.5 STEPS OF SCM SYSTEM

1. Order planning as to how much is the order and availability of the raw materials.
2. Master data management i.e., use of an ERP system called SAP (Solution
Application and Data processing).
3. Making a master card for designing.
4. Designing of the sample or the feeler length (length of the sample as per the
order) or pattern based on the master card.
5. Approval from the QC department or the client.
6. Returning of the sample.
7. Booking

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 10:
RAW MATERIALS

UTM JSML 2022
• Yarns are basic requirement for production of fabric. Instead of spinning their own
yarn, the company gets it from other small factories.
• It come packed in cones or hanks which are then stored in yarn store.
• Most yarns come from Tamil Nadu and China.
• The industry has two separate stores: one for in-house production (mostly samples)
and other for work order.
• The yarns for in-house production, (usually samples) are located on first floor. The
yarns are dyed and stored in cheese forms. They are stored in racks according to their
type. They also have some special yarns, i.e. yarns with patterns which have very
colorful and aesthetic appearance.
10.1 RAW MATERIAL STORE

The raw material store (for work order) is located on ground floor of the weaving
section. The Purpose of the Raw Material store is to receive Raw material from
outside party and from inside departments and deliver as per the requirement with
care. It stores the raw material with proper order, receives waste from various
departments, and dispatches the waste material. The yarns are stored in various racks
as per their sort. The yarns are then issued by the in charge according to work order.
Most of the yarns are stored in cheese and hank form as per requirement. They are
usually stored in paper cones while silk, linen are cotton are stored in hank form for
further preparatory process (for ex : dyeing, degumming etc.).
(A) (B)
Fig. 10.1 Raw material storehouse

UTM JSML 2022
10.2 IN HOUSE YARN STORE

This is located in the first floor of JSML building. Different kinds of yarns are stored in
cones and bobbins different racks according to the compositions. They have the yarns
of cotton and its types, polyester and its types, viscose and its types, silk, linen and its
types, bamboo, blended yarns, embroidery reels and many other yarns like Zari, Lurex,
Titan etc.
COST-
Silk> linen> cotton> polyester> viscose
Fig. 2.7 VAYA Lucca

Fig. 2.7 VAYA Lucca
Fig. 2.7 VAYA Lucca
(A) (B ) (C)
Fig. 10.2 Yarn storage house
10.3 PROCESS FLOW CHART
Chart 10.1 Raw materials movement process flow chart

UTM JSML 2022
10.4 VARIOUS RAW MATERIALS

10.4.1 SILK
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles.
The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by
certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known silk is obtained from
the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in
captivity (sericulture). The shimmering appearance of silk is due to the
triangular prism-like structure of the silk fiber, which allows silk cloth to
refract incoming light at different angles, thus producing different colors.
Silk's absorbency makes it comfortable to wear in warm weather and while
active. Its low conductivity keeps warm air close to the skin during cold
weather. It is often used for clothing such as shirts, ties, blouses, formal
dresses, high fashion clothes etc.
SOURCING- The industry gets these silk yarns from China in hank form. Its
density is 1120 denier (2 ply).
Fig. 10.3 Silk yarn
10.4.2 COTTON
Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case,
around the seeds of the cotton plants of the genus Gossypium in the mallow
family Malvaceae. The fiber is almost pure cellulose, and can contain minor
percentages of waxes, fats, pectins, and water. Under natural conditions, the
cotton bolls will increase the dispersal of the seeds. The fiber is most often
spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable, and durable
textile. It is comfortable to wear and slow to dry. It wrinkles easily and can
withstand heat, detergent, and bleaches.
SOURCING- Jaipuria gets its cotton yarns from Hyderabad and Tamil Nadu.
It is usually packaged in both cone and hank forms.
Fig. 10.4 Cotton yarn

UTM JSML 2022
10.4.3 POLYESTER
Polyester fibers are sometimes spun together with natural fibers to produce a
cloth with blended properties. Cotton-polyester blends can be strong, wrinkle-
and tear-resistant, and reduce shrinking. Synthetic fibers made using polyester
have high water, wind and environmental resistance compared to plant-derived
fibers.
Polyester is used in the manufacturing many products, including clothing,
home furnishings and industrial fabrics. It does not absorb moisture but does
absorb oil; this quality makes polyester the perfect fabric for the application of
water, soil and fire-resistant finishes. Its low absorbency also makes it naturally
resistant to stains. The fabric is easily dye-able, and not damaged by mildew.
SOURCING- In Jaipuria, they source most of polyester yarns from Tamil

Nadu. Other sourcing places include Surat, Diu Daman, Bangalore,
Mumbai.
NOTE- Some customers (mostly from outside India) prefer environment

friendly polyester. SO for them, recycled polyester is made which is spun
from waste plastic bottles, ocean waste etc. This recycled polyester is GRS
(global recycle system) certified. Ex- 2/10 polyester.
• ATY- AIR TEXTURISED YARN – This polyester derived yarn is has a
shiny silk like texture and is used in warping.
• FDY- FULLY DRAWN YARN -Another polyester derived yarn
• ROYAL SHRINK YARN-Polyester derived yarn used for giving
embossing effects, since it doesn’t shrink when heated. Ex- 220 Polyester.
• FLAME RETARDANT YARN- This polyester derived yarn is used in
fireman clothes and equipment since it is resistant to burning and melts
down when burnt.
Fig. 10.5 Polyester yarn Fig. 10.6 A.T.Y yarn

UTM JSML 2022
10.4.4 LINEN
Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant. Garments made of linen
are valued for their exceptional coolness and freshness in hot and humid
weather. Linen is very strong, absorbent, and dries faster than cotton. Because of
these properties, linen is comfortable to wear in hot weather and is valued for
use in garments. It also has other distinctive characteristics, notably its tendency
to wrinkle.
SOURCING- Linen yarns are sourced from China of 44 denier density. It is
also sourced from Tamil Nadu, Nagpur (GOLDEN FIBER COMPANY) and
West Bengal.
They are often sent in hank form. Most of the yarns are stored in cheese and
hank form as per requirement. They are usually stored in paper cones while silk,
linen and cotton are stored in hank form for further preparatory process (for ex:
dyeing, degumming etc)
Fig. 10.7 Linen yarn
10.4.5 VISCOSE
Viscose is a semi-synthetic fiber. Viscose is a low-cost fabric. It can be found in
cotton end uses, as well as luxurious velvets. Viscose is the oldest manufactured
fiber, first being produced in 1883 as a cheap alternative to silk. It is more
sustainable fabric than any other synthetic fiber. It is very breathable fabric and
drapes well. It has excellent color retention and highly absorbent. It is very soft
and comfortable.
SOURCING- Viscose yarns are sourced from Bangalore (Aditya Birla)
mainly filament viscous, Tamil Nadu( mainly spun viscose), West Bengal
(Jayshree textiles).
NOTE- 2/24 viscose is used for piling of velvets.
Fig. 10.8 Viscose Yarn

UTM JSML 2022
10.4.6 REELS FOR EMBRIODERY

For the embroidery process, various materials are bought from outside like
tapes (dori) which is spun viscose, plastic bobbins and thread reels.
NOTE-Some buyers demand ecofriendly Viscose . So, the company uses

viscose made from bamboo instead of viscose made of wood pulp. These
Bamboo yarns are used for embroidery purpose.
Fig. 10.9 Dori for embroidery Fig. 10.10 Bamboo yarn
10.4.7 SHIKSHA
Shiksha is a cotton, polyester, linen, viscose blended yarn. It is used as
embroidery base and for furnishings.
Fig. 10.11 Shiksha yarn
10.4.8 OTHER YARNS

Some other yarns include Zari, Titan , Lurex,
Fig. 10.2 Zari Fig. 10.13 lurex Fig. 10.14 Titan

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 11:
YARN WINDING

UTM JSML 2022
11.1 WINDING OF YARNS

Winding is the process of moving yarn or thread from one type of container to
another for further processing. The yarns for in-house manufacture (often samples)
are kept on the first level. Dyeing and storing the yarns in cheese shapes They’re
arranged in racks according to kind They also offer some unique yarns, such as those
with patterns with a bright and appealing look.
The raw components in the paper cone, such as spun polyester, polyester, and viscous,
are turned into cheese and packaged coloured The coloured yarns are then
transformed once again to bobbin or cone, depending on the situation Natural yarns,
such as cotton and silk, are available in hanks. The form is directly delivered for
dying in the hank. Then, depending on the use, they are turned to cones or bobbins.
Each hank was 840 yards in length, and the other raw materials in the length of the
paper cones was 1200 metres. Cones are commonly used for warping and for weft
cheese/bobbin is used.
• There are a total of 8 winding machines.
• One machine had 8 sections and each section had 6 spindles.
Fig. 11.1 Winding machine
• The other five machines are specifically for silk winding. Where each machine has
100 spindles. In these five machines, each section has four rows (two up and two
down)and each row contains 25 spindles.
Fig. 11.2 Silk Winding machine Fig. 11.3 Silk winding machine company

UTM JSML 2022
• There was a special machine for winding yarns in perforated bobbins (cheese)
named as SCHARER SCWEITER METTLER FASTFLEX- SSM
FASTFLEX. imported from Switzerland. There are 2 SSM FASTFLEX
machines in which each machines has 30 units which adds ups to total of 60
units.
SPECIFICATIONS OF MACHINE
• BRAND- SSM FASTFLEX
• TYPE OF WINDING- DIGICONE or PRECISION
• MECHANICAL SPEED- up to 1200 m/min
• TAKE UP PACKAGE DIAMETER- up to 280 mm
• PACKAGE WEIGHT- up to 5 kg
• SUPPLY PACKAGE DIAMETER- up to 280 mm
• YARNS- Staple and Textured Filament yarns
• COUNT- Ne 3-80
• LAYOUT- Single or double sided
• NO. OF SPINDLES PER SECTION- 6 (single sided) and 12 (double sided)
• TAKE-UP TUBES- Cylindrical or cones upto 5° 57’ maximum length 230
mm, minimum base diameter 38 mm.
• PACKAGE SHAPE- Freely programmable
• PRICE- Rs 48,000
(A) (B)
Fig. 11.4 SSM fastflex winding mahine

UTM JSML 2022
11.2 KEY POINTS

• Yarn count – Higher the yarn count, the higher the winding efficiency.
• Yarn quality – Improved yarn quality means an increased winding efficiency.
• Workload – If the workload per worker increases, the winding efficiency will be
decreased.
• Worker efficiency – If worker efficiency increases, the winding efficiency also
increases.
• Power failure – If power failure increases, the winding efficiency will decrease.
• Capacity utilization – If more capacity utilization is observed, the winding

efficiency decreases.
• Winding machine quality – If the maintenance and overhauling of the winding
machine are not perfect, the efficiency is decreased.
• Humidity – In the case of cotton yarns, increased humidity results in increased
winding efficiency. But, in the case of other yarns, increased humidity means
decreased winding efficiency.
• Doffing time – If the doffing time is more, the winding efficiency is lesser

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 12:
DYEING

UTM JSML 2022
12.1 DYEING
Dyeing is the process of colouring textile materials by immersing them in an aqueous
solution of dye, called dye liquor.
UTM - JSML majorly focuses on yarn dyeing. Yarn dyeing is the dyeing of the yarns
before they have been woven or knitted into fabrics. In yarn dyeing, dyestuff
penetrates the fibres in the core of the yarn. The primary reason for dyeing in the yarn
form is to create interesting checks, stripes, and plaids with different-colored yarns in
the weaving process as the company manufactures home decor.
Skein/Hank dyeing and Package/Cheese dyeing processes are followed in the industry
for the dyeing of Cotton, Linen, Viscose, Polyester, Spun Polyester and Silk.
Fig. 12.1 Sample dye ontainers
12.2 SAMPLE DYEING LAB

Dyeing lab is the place where all dyes are made and experimented on yarns. When the
company gets an order, sampling is done here for shade matching. Before bulk dyeing,
a small sample (in grams) is dyed and with the help of which the % dyes added is
calculated A Pipet is used to carry color from the color box and pour into the load
Fig. 12.2 Manual dye sampling Fig. 12.3 Sample dye workspace

UTM JSML 2022
12.3 FLOWCHART OF DYE RECIPE SAMPLE PREPARATION
Chart 12.1 Sample dye preparation process flow chart
NOTE:
If the heat required for heating is more than 90 degree Celsius then InfraColor
Machine is used.
(A) (B) Fig. 12.5 Color reference booklet

Fig. 12.4 Polyester automatic dye sampling machine

UTM JSML 2022
12.4 SHADE MATCHING AFTER DYEING

A Color Matching is used wherever products must have the same color properties
during production. A Color Matching contributes to quality control. The Color
Matching is a simulation instrument which is capable of displaying certain
situations in order to analyze color characteristics of individual samples by means of
different light types. After dyeing process is complete, the dyed yarns are matched
with the required sample using color matching cabinet.
(A) (B)
Fig. 12.6 VAYA Lucca
12.5 COLOR MATCHING CABINET
Color Matching Cabinet, used for color matching or assessment of all industries and
applications where there is a need to maintain color consistency and quality.
Application Color Light Box / Color Matching Cabinet, used for color matching
where there is a need to maintain color consistency and quality. E.g., Automotive,
Ceramics, Cosmetics, Foodstuffs, Footwear, Furniture, knitwear, Leather,
Ophthalmic, Dyeing, Packaging, Printing, Inks and Textile
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS:
Machine name: PARAMOUNT SPECTRA COLOR Color matching cabinet
Weight: 30 kg
Length of machine: 670mm
Width of machine: 530mm
Height of machine: 630mm
Voltage required: 230v
Fig. 12.7 Color matching cabinet

UTM JSML 2022
FEATURES:
• Sturdy Mild Steel Sheet body.
• Electronic Ballast for instant illumination.
• Electrical or Electronic Circuit on a sliding tray, which makes it very easy for
maintenance.
• Fully covered with doors when not in use.
• 450degree Inclined plate.
• Paint: Inside of Cabinet is Painted with Neutral Grey and outside with metallic
green
12.6 DYE STORAGE

Dye storage is a store where all types of dyes are stored in cans for bulk production
along with their names written on the cans. In UTM and JSML dyes come from
companies such as dyester, Huntsman, Colourton.
For bulk production, colors are also mixed here according to the recipe provided
by the sample dyeing lab.
Fig. 12.8 Dye mixing Fig.12.9 Dye storage containers
Fig. 12.10 Dye store house

UTM JSML 2022
NOTE-
This color matching cabinet has following light sources:
Table 12.1 Light sources of colour matching cabinet
12.7 HANK DYEING

Skein dyeing consists of immersing large, loosely wound hanks (skeins) of yarn hung
into dye vats that are especially designed for this purpose. The skein of yarn is looped
over a hook washed in water, opening the fibers to receive the dye. The color
penetration is the best in case of hank dyeing. Once the desired color is achieved, the
yarn is steamed to fix the dye to the fibers. Because it does not use as many chemicals
as other forms of dyeing, hank dyeing is less damaging to the material. Although
package dyeing route is much simple and easy to follow for dyeing of different kinds
of yarn, but still the hank route is popular for certain qualities, there are two reasons
for this:
• The quality and nature of the product does not allow to follow package route Certain
kinds of yarns which are so delicate that their physical properties such as strength
appearance, texture and construction cannot be retained while following the package
route in which yarn is processed under stretched conditions at elevated temperatures.
• The package route is non practical and non-economical. For small industries, hank
dyeing is preferable when there is a small order quantity instead of package dyeing.
Package dyeing is most suitable for dyeing of bulk order quantities
Fig. 12.11 Hank dyeing

UTM JSML 2022
NUMBERS OF HANK DYEING MACHINES IN UTM-JSML
NO. OF HANKS NO. OF M/C COMPANY OF M/C
12 2 Swastik
10 1 Tung Shing
8 1 Swastik
6 2 Swastik
4 2 Swastik
4 1 Tung Shing
3 2 Tung Shing
3 1 Swastik
2 2 Swastik
2 2 Tung Shing
1 3 Tung Shing
1 6 Swastik
Table 12.2 Total number of Hank dyeing machines
(A) 12 hank dyeing machine (B) 2 hank dyeing machine
Fig. 12.12 Swastik hank Dyeing machines

UTM JSML 2022
TUNG SHING DYEING M/C SPECIFICATIONS

• MACHINE NAME- Tung- Shing Dyeing Machine
• COOLING RATE- 98° C- 48° C APPROX 20 MINS( COOLING WATER AT
3KG/cm2.
• HEATING RATE- 20°C – 98°C approx. 30 mins (saturated steam pressure 7
kg/cm2.
• MAXIMUM WORKING PRESSURE-2kg/cm2.
• MAXIMUM WORKING TEMPERATURE- 100°C
• TYPE OF YARNS- Silk, Polyester, Lightweight cotton, wool etc.
(A) 1 hank dyeing m/c (B) 10 hank dyeing m/c (C) 3 hank dyeing m/c
Fig. 12.3 Tung Shing hank dyeing machine

UTM JSML 2022
12.8 CHEESE DYEING

In Cheese Dyeing the yarn is wound on a small perforated spool or tube called a
cheese. Many spools are fit into the dyeing machine in which the flow of the dye
bath alternates from the center to the outside, and then from the outside to the
center of the cheese. The term cheese dyeing usually denotes for dyeing of yarn that
has been wound on perforated cones. This helps in forcing the dye liquor through the
cheese. With the start of dyeing cycle, the dye liquor goes on circulating throughout
the vessel and tank. This happens till all the dye is used up or fully exhausted.
Package dyed yarns do not retain the softness and loftiness. They are very widely
used for most types of yarns that are found in knitted and woven fabrics. The main
reason for the use of this dyeing is for manufacture of plaids, stripes, checks and
other multi - colored designs.
Fig. 12.14 Cheese dyeing mechanism
Yarn dyeing in package or cheese form is done at high temperature and under high
pressure, with the packages mounted on hollow spindles. These spindles are fixed on
the dyeing carriers , which is inserted into the dyeing vessel after closing the lid of the
machine ,the dyeing liquor is forced through the packages in two way pattern (inside
to out and outside to in) and goes on circulating throughout the vessel and yarn. The
machine has a pump that forces the liquor movement inside the main tank. This pump
is the heart of the machine. This main pump ensures the in-to-out and out-to-in
movements of the liquor that happens during the dyeing cycle
Fig. 12.15 package dyeing/ Cheese dyeing machine

UTM JSML 2022
NUMBERS OF CHEESE DYEING MACHINES IN UTM-JSML
CAPACITY OF M/C NOS. OF M/C COMPANY OF M/C
1 kg 01 Dalal
4 kg 01 Dalal
8 kg 01 Dalal
15 kg 01 Dalal
25 kg 01 Dalal
45 kg 01 Dalal
65 kg 01 Dalal
Table 12.3 Total number of Cheese dyeing machines
DALAL CHEESE DYEING M/C FEATURES

1. Air Pad System: This feature makes it a most cost effective & environmentally
friendly application. Its advantages are:
• Reduced water quantity to bring down steam, electricity and chemical
requirements
• Uniform temperature in kier volume and excellent exhaustion of dyestuff
• In vat dyeing of cotton, the dye liquor is not subject to continuous
oxidation by external air.
• Reduced air pollution as dissolved chemicals do not escape to air.
2. Variable Frequency Drive: Inverter controlled turbo pump motor helps achieve
automatic step less speed control in both directions of flow. VFD reduces power
consumption during start up, flow reversal and partial load dyeing.
3. Adjustable Liquor Ratios: Best liquor ratio can be selected depending on

various process parameters with Analog Level Controller for complete dyeing
process.
• Low liquor ratio during dyeing phase. Minimum MLR can be selected for
Full Load or Partial Load dyeing phase
• Ultra-low liquor ratio can be selected, whenever possible, for dyeing and
subsequent washing cycles
4. Safety and Interlock Systems: The main lid of the machine is in 3-piece OSV
type lid, operating with a pneumatic lifting and lowering cylinder and all required
safety locks such that it cannot be opened unless the machine is fully
depressurized, and temperature is below 80° C.

UTM JSML 2022
• Auto pressure control valve set at 4 kg/cm2 . Releases built-up pressure

• Mechanical pressure safety valve set at 4.5 kg/cm2
• Main pump protection to safeguard against dry run
• Interlocking of “Heating On” and main pump motor
DALAL CHEESE DYEING M/C SPECIFICATIONS

• MACHINE NAME- DALAL Dyeing plant
• MANUFACTURED BY- Dalal Engineering pvt ltd.
• WEIGHT PRESSURE- 4 Kg/cm2. g.
• TEST PRESSURE- 6 Kg/cm2. g.
• MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE- 135° C.
(A) 4 kg Cheese dyeing machine (B) 25 kg cheese dyeing machine
Fig. 12.16 Dalal cheese dyeing machine
Fig. 12.17 Sample cheese dyeing machine Fig. 12.18 Ready to dye cheese

UTM JSML 2022
12.9 DYEING OF DIFFERENT FABRICS IN UTM AND JSML

12.9.1 COTTON , VISCOSE, LINEN
SCOURING-
The outermost cuticle layer of cotton fibre is made up of oils, fats, and waxes.
Because they hinder water, chemicals, and dyes from easily entering the fibre,
they must be removed to make it absorbent. Scouring is used to eliminate all of
these contaminants.
Chart 12.2 Scouring process flow chart for cotton, viscose, linen
DYEING-
In UTM and JSML direct dyes are used. The direct dyes have a higher affinity
to the cellulose fibers, and the dyeing of the cellulose fibers should be carried
out in a neutral or weakly alkaline medium. These dyes are mostly sodium salts
of aromatic compounds. They are soluble in water and their solubility increases
with temperature
Fig. 12.19 Hank dyed yarns

UTM JSML 2022
DYE COLOUR USED:

Yellow ARLE, Red 4G, Blue FGLE, Yellow S3, Red SNR, Ocean SR,
Turquoise GM
Chart 12.3 Dyeing process flowchart for cotton, viscose, linen
12.9.2 SILK
UTM and JSML uses acid dyes to dye silk and wool. Silk is dyed in the form
of hank by the use of acid dyes.
Degumming of silk:
A major undesirable constituent part of silk is ‘silk gum’ or ‘sericin’ about
25% of total mass. Sericin is removed by degumming. Degumming is the
process of removing the sericin, or silk gum, from silk
Chart 12.4 Degumming of silk process flowchart

UTM JSML 2022
DYEING-
DYE COLOUR USED:

Yellow 2SR, Brown 2RL, Olive BGL, Grey SBL, Orange RL, Yellow 4G etc.
Chart 12.5 Dyeing process flowchart for silk
12.9.3 POLYESTER
SCOURING PROCESS 1-
Polyester Scouring Scouring of polyester is necessary to remove any excess
oils, waxes, lubricants, or general soils that may be left in the fiber from
manufacturing processes, handling, storage, etc.it is majorly done due to
remove oil content in polyester
Chart 12.6 Scouring process- I flowchart for polyester

UTM JSML 2022
SCOURING PROCESS 2-
Chart 12.7 Scouring process- II flowchart for polyester
DYEING-
UTM and JSML uses dispersed dyes for dyeing of polyester yarns. Disperse
dye is a category of synthetic dye intended for polyester and related
hydrophobic fibers. The dye has derived its name for its insoluble aqueous
properties and the need to apply it from an aqueous dispersion.
Polyester and spun polyester are dyed in package form (cheese dyeing).
DYE COLOUR USED:

Yellow W6GS, Rubine S2G, Navy S2G, Blue WBLS
Chart 12.8 Dyeing process flowchart for polyester

UTM JSML 2022
12.10 DRYING
It is a process where the yarns are put in a yarn dryer to remove the excess water. It is
essential to remove the excess water. About 40% of the remaining water is removed
by this process. If yarns are in hank form it takes 1.5 hours for drying, if in cheese
form it takes 2 hours for drying.
Drying can be applied to loose fibers, hanks, yarn packages and fabric.
• Loose fiber drying: The water content of the fiber is initially turned down by
either centrifugal extraction or by mangling before evaporative drying.
• Hanks drying: Evaporative dryers contain a number of heated chambers with

fan assisted air circulation, through which the hanks pass suspended on hangers
or poles or supported on a conveyer. The hank sizes employed in carpet yarn
processing require a slow passage through the dryer to ensure even final moisture
content, and a residence time of up to 4 hours is not uncommon. Air temperature
is maintained below 120°C to prevent yellowing.
• Yarn packages drying: The moisture of dyed packages is reduced at first by
centrifugal extraction. Specially designed centrifuges, compatible with the
design of the dyeing vessel and yarn carriers are engaged. Traditionally packages
were oven dried, very long residence times being required to ensure sufficient
drying of the yarn on the inside of the package. Two techniques are currently
used, rapid (forced) air drying and radio frequency drying, the latter sometimes
being combined with initial vacuum extraction.
• Fabric drying: The fabric transported within two blankets through a set of
drying modules. Internally each module the fabric is dried by means of a hot air
flow. This apparatus is normally used for merged finishing operations on woven
fabrics when, along with drying, a shrinking effect is also essential in order to
give the fabric a soft hand and good dimensional firmness
Fig. 12.20 Dyed and dried yarns

UTM JSML 2022
TYPES OF DRYING METHODS
1. HYDROEXTRACTOR
It is a machine that works on centrifugal force which creates a high gravitational force,
enhancing water extraction. The inner drum rotates at high speed, thus throwing out
the water contained in it. The use of hydro-extractor significantly reduces the energy
and time required to dry the yarns
NOS. OF HYDROEXTRACTORS IN UTM AND JSML
CAPACITY OF M/C NOS. OF M/C COMPANY OF M/C
50 KG 02 Dalal
100 KG 01 Dalal
Table 12.4 Total number of hydroextractors
SPECIFICATION OF DALAL HYDROEXTRACTOR

• COMPANY- DALAL
• USAGE- Laundry
• MATERIALS- Stainless Steel
• WEIGHT- 300kg.
• CAPACITY- 100 kg and 50 kg.
(A) (B)
Fig. 12.21 Dalal Hydroextractor machine

UTM JSML 2022
2. RADIO FREQUENCY DRYING MACHINE

In radio frequency drying system alternating electric field between two electrodes is
created by RF generator. The material to be dried is put across between the electrodes,
where the alternating energy causes polar molecules in the water to continuously re-
orient them to face opposite poles - much the same way magnets move in an
alternating magnetic field. This movement causes the friction and due to this water in
the material to rapidly evaporate throughout the material.
What is Radio Frequency?

Using 3 phase industrial electrical supply, our RF generators employ resonating
circuits to produce electric fields oscillating at 27.12 Mhz. This frequency is part of
the ISM band reserved for the use of Industrial, Scientific and Medical devices. This
frequency band falls under the ‘Non- Ionizing’ radiation part of the electromagnetic
spectrum which does not cause any permanent molecular change in the product to
which it is exposed and does not change the DNA of any organic products.
How it Works?
Water molecules when exposed to Radio Frequency energy tend to get polarized.
These polarized molecules align themselves with the RF energy which is oscillating
between positive and negative once every 37 nano seconds. This rapid change in
orientation causes internal friction and heat between the molecules causing their
temperature to rise and eventually leads to vaporization
Fig. 12.22 radio frequency drying machine

UTM JSML 2022
M/C USED IN UTM AND JSML

MONGA STRAYFIELD RADIO FREQUENCY DRYING M/C
SPECIFICATIONS OF MONGA STRAYFIELD
• RF Power (kW)- 40
• Water Evaporation (Litre/Hr) 48
• Electrical Power (kW) 70
• Unit Cooling Forced air
• Electrical Supply (370-600 Volts, 50/60 Hz Customer specified)
• Conveyor Belt Width- 1400mm
• Steam Requirement 30 Kgs/Hr. @ 3.5 Bar
• Machine Dimension (L) 7700 mm
• Machine Dimension (B) 2150 mm
• Machine Dimension (H) 4000 mm
(A) Inlet (B) Outlet
Fig. 12.23 Monga frequency radio frequency drying machine

UTM JSML 2022
3. PRINTED FABRICS DRYING MACHINE

M/C USED IN UTM AND JSML
TEXFAB DRYING MACHINE
Fig. 12.24 Texfab drying machine
SPECIFICATIONS
• BRAND- Texfab
• STANDARD ROLLER WIDTH- 1400-1700-2000-2300-2600-2900-3200-
3500 mm.
• TEMPERATURE- 100- 160° C.
• Power- 5.0 KW
• VOLTAGE- 380 volt
4. HANGERS FOR NATURAL DRYING

These are mostly used for drying of yarns dyed in hank form. It is very time
consuming and slow process of drying
(A) (B)
Fig. 12.25 Hangers for natural drying

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 13:
EFFLUENT
TREAMENT PLANT

UTM JSML 2022
13.1 ETP (EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT)

Effluent Treatment Plant or ETP is one type of wastewater treatment
method which is particularly designed to purify industrial wastewater for
its reuse and the aim is to release safe water to environment from the
harmful effect caused by the effluent
• Influent: Untreated industrial wastewater.
• Effluent: Treated industrial wastewater.
• Sludge: Solid part separated from wastewater by ETP.
13.2 EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT STEPS

1. COLLECTION TANK
First the raw effluent comes from the dyeing department and is collected in a
collection tank.
Fig. 13.1 Collection tank
2. TEMPERATURE REDUCTION
The raw effluent is collected from the dyeing department to the aeration tank or
temperature reduction tank to reduce temp of the effluent.
Fig. 13.2 Temperature reduction tank

UTM JSML 2022
3. EQUALIZATION
From temperature reduction tank effluent is sent to the aeration tank or temperature
reduction tank, the pH is being neutralized.
• To increase the pH caustic is added.
• To decrease the pH hydrochloric acid is added.
Fig. 2.7 Equalization tank
4. AERATION
Here, oxidation is done by blowing air. The Aerobic bacteria is used to stabilize and
remove organic material present in waste.
Reaction in Aeration Tank:
Organic Matter + O2 CO2 + H2O + Heat
Fig. 2.7 Aeration tank
5. CLARIFICATION
Here semi solid sludge is clarified. Then form here the water is sent for color removal
and the semi solid sludge is sent back to aeration tank.
13.5 Clarification tank

UTM JSML 2022
5. COLOR REMOVAL PROCESS

From the clarification tank it goes to the tank where PAC- Poly-ammonium
chloride(powder)with decolorant (liquid) and polyelectrolyte both are added to
the effluent, this is the color removal process.
Fig. 13.6 Color removal section Fig. 13.7 decolorant tank
6. SETTLING OR SLUDGE HOLDING

After color removal, the effluent goes to the sludge holding tank or settling tank.
• here sludge is settled

• clear water is collected
7. RO TREATMENT STAGE
Then the water is treated, it is passed through RO, here in RO two types of filters
are used:
1. Carbon Filter
2. Sand Filter
Fig. 13.8 Carbon filter and sand filter

UTM JSML 2022
7. EVAPORATION
After RO treatment it goes to the evaporation feed, here it goes through three
rejection stages if the first collection is rejected it is passed to the second stage, if the
second stage is rejected it is passed to the third stage.
Then the water is sent for solar evaporation and finally to multi effect evaporator and
then treatment is completed.
Fig. 13.9 Evaporation tank Fig. 13.10 Multi effect evaporator
13.3 EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT FLOWCHART
Chart 13.1 Effluent treatment plant flowchart

UTM JSML 2022
13.4 RECOVERY PLANT FLOWCHART
Chart 13.2 Recovery plant process flowchart
(A) Stage 1 (B) Stage 2
(c) Stage 3
Fig. 13.11 RO filter

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 14:
CONING AND WARPING

UTM JSML 2022
14.1 CONING-
The raw materials like spun polyester, polyester and viscous that come in the paper
cone are converted to cheese form, and package dyed. Then the dyed yarns are again
converted to cone according to the need. The natural yarns like cotton, silk which
come in hank form are directly sent for the dyeing in the hank dyeing machine. Then
they are converted to cone as per need.
Cones are generally used for warping.
(A)
There are 2 SSM PRECIFLEX (of 30 units and 42 units respectively) machines
for coning.
(B)
Fig. 14.1 SSM preiflex coning machine

UTM JSML 2022
SPECIFICATIONS OF SSM PRECIFLEX
• Mechanical speed - Up to 1500mtr/min

• Package shape- Free programmable
• Take up package diameter - Up to 250mm
• Package weight- Up to 5 kgSupply
• package diameter- 2-ply creeling: up to 240 mm / 3-plycreeling: up to 220 mm
• Yarns- Staple yarns
• Count Ne 3...80 (Nm 5...135 / 80...2000 dtex)
• Take-up tubes- Cylindrical and conical up to 4° 20’conicity
• Layout - single or double sided machine
• No. of spindles per section -6 (single sided) and 2 x 6 (double sided)min. / max.
N° of spindles 6 (single sided) and 2 x 6 (double sided) /96 (single sided) and 2 x
48 (doublesided)
• Gauge- 366 mm
• Drive- Individual
• Installed power ~ 200 W per spindle
• Power consumption ~ 100 W per spindle
• Blower ~ 1100 W
14.2 WARPING
Warping is the process of combining yarns from different cones together to form a
sheet. The important point in the warping is to preserve the yarn elongation and
maintain it at uniform level. This is done to achieve a better performance during
weaving in terms of low-end breakage rate.
Fig. 14.2 Warping workspace

UTM JSML 2022
14.2.1 OBJECTIVES OF WARPING
To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns of related length so that they

can be collect on a single warp beam as a continuous sheet of yarns which can
be used for sizing or next process. To remove yarn faults like hairiness, naps
and for foreign matters.
14.2.2 TYPES OF WARPING
1. Direct Warping or Beam warping:

When the yarns are drawn from the single packages on the creel directly onto
the beam then it is called direct warping. It is also called high speed warping
or beam warping. Direct warping is used to make smaller beams which are
combined later in slashing to produce the weaver’s beam. In this method of
warping, single color in warping is used generally. It is mainly used to prepare
the warp of single-ply yarn.
2. Sectional warping :
The type of warping followed in the industry was sectional warping. It is
basically done to produce fancy fabrics with multiple colors. In sectional
warping equal length of yarn is first wound in small sections or sheets on a
drum from the creel yarns. Then from the drum it is transferred to the beam.
By this process we directly get the weavers beam. This is a two stage
method.
14.2.3 FLOWCHART OF WARPING
Chart 14.1 Warping process flowchart

UTM JSML 2022
14.2.4 WORKING PRINCIPLE OF SECTIONAL WARPING

• Sectional warping is used for short runs especially for fancy pattern fabrics.
• In this case sections of the warp which may contain up to 1000 ends are first
wound onto a drum tapered with a given cone angle.
• So cross wound sections are combined on the drum & thus each layer of warp
contains the same number of ends on the drum.
• Then the warp threads altogether are transferred onto a weaver's beam by
unwinding the drum.
• In this method the warp threads are not necessarily processed in sizing.
14.2.5 FEATURES OF SECTIONAL WARPING

• This is suitable for making checked, stripped or other fancy fabric.
• We directly obtain weaver’s beam from this process
• As sizing is not done, so multi-ply yarns or yarns which do not require sizing
are used
• Small amount of yarn is required to produce the weaver’s beam
• Sectional warping is used to produce a warp beam with a greater member if
ends
• The production is less in sectional warping
• he yarn tension is less uniform
14.3 COMPONENTS OF WARPING MACHINE:

• Creel: Creel is a stand for holding the supply packages in the form of wound
packages. It enables to hold the supply packages in proper position for warping. A
total of 840 single ended rectangular creels are used placed on both the sides; 420
each side. These creels are mounted with smaller yarn packages. It has a balloon
that controls the speed of the thread at which they are pulled. The ceramic used
prevents the cutting of thread.
Fig. 14.3 Creels

UTM JSML 2022
• Function of components of creel: Cone or cheese spindle for high-speed

warping. Thread guide: To pass through the yarn in the required way; Tensioner: To
keep the yarn always in a uniform tension; Yarn cleaner: To remove various faults
of yarn like slubs, neps etc.; Breakage indicator: To indicate breakage in package;
Stop device: To stop the m/c when yarn will be broken.
Fig. 14.4 Control device
• Control Device: Similar to winding, warp yarns are threaded through tension
devices, stop motions, leasing rods and the reed. The stop motion electrically links
each warp end to the warper braking system; when a warp end breaks, the warper
stops. A light indicates the location of the broken end. The warping process is
generally irreversible, unwinding, of the beam would cause yarn entanglement.
The stop motion device which can be mechanical or electronic for quick response
is usually located near the creel.
• Leasing Rods: It is a system by which the position of the ends is maintained in

the warp sheet. Generally, it is done by grouping the ends in two groups (odd and
even). If odd ends are passing over the lease rods, then the even ends will pass
below the rod. The relative positions of the ends will reverse in case of second
lease rod.
• Reed: The reed is a comb-like structure consisting of regularly spaced wires.

These reeds are bind of binding wire (Mild Steel and Copper) with extra strength
adhesive. The reeds are used to separate the ends of yarns before it is winded on
the drum. The yarns are passed through the dents, which is space between the
reeds.
• Drum: Sections of the warp from the creel which may contain up to 1,000 ends
are first wound onto a drum tapered with a given cone angle. So cross wound
sections are combined on the drum, and thus each layer of warp contains the same
number of ends on the drum.

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Fig. 14.5 Warping drum
• Passage of Yarn: The yarn from Cone/Cheese placed on the creel passes
through the back reed. Reed maintains uniform spacing of the yarn throughout the
width of the warp. Then yarn passes over & under guide & drop rollers. The drop
rollers impart tension to the yarn passing under them & hold the yarn tight when
the machine is stopped.
• Then yarn goes through the reed. Each end of the warp passes separately inserted
in the warp at the completion of one section of warp & reed is lowered. The
purpose of the reed is to wind as well as unwind the warp without any
entanglements between threads to distribute evenly. The yarn then goes through a
stop motion device which stops the machine in the event of the end breakage in
supply. Yarn then passes through the V-reed which enables the width of the warp
through it to be adjusted according to sections.
• Beaming system: In the beaming process, all the sections are simultaneously
transferred to the warper’s beam. The drum is rotated by the tension of warp sheet
whereas positive drives are given to the warper’s beam. The speed of beaming
process in sectional warping is quite slow (around 300 m/min).
Fig. 14.6 Beaming process

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14.4 IMPORTANT REQUIREMENTS OF WARPING:

• The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during all the
time of withdrawal from the supply package.
• Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of yarn.
• The tension should be moderate to allow the yarn to complete retain its elastic
properties.
• The surface of warping package must be cylindrical.
14.5 MACHINE USED IN UTM AND JSML WARPING:

M/C Name- Vamatex servomatic ( VM-108 Servomatic)
M/C Count - 03
14.5.1 SPECIFICATIONS OF VAMATEX SERVOMATIC

• MODEL- VAMATEX VM 108
• BRAND- SERVOMATIC
• POWER CONSUMPTION- 220 VOLTS.
• DRUM WIDTH- 2500 mm.
• DRUM DIAMETER- 800mm.
• CATEGORY- Preparatory
• SUB CATEGORY- Sectional warping
• DRUM CIRCUMFERENCE- 2500mm.
• WARP WIDTH- 2200 mm.
• BEAM PIPE LENGTH- 2550 mm.
• DRUM WEIGHT- 500kg.
• HYDRAULLIC PRESSURE- 45-50 bar.
• PRICE- Rs. 43.2 lakhs.
Fig. 2.7 VAYA Lucca
Fig. 14.7 Servomatic Vamatex warping machine

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SECTION 15:
WEAVING

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15.1 WHAT IS WEAVING

Weaving refers to the formation of fabric by the interlacing of the weft and warp
yarns. This is usually accomplished with a hand- or power-operated loom. Here
power operated looms are used. Warp ends are placed longitudinally whereas wefts
are horizontally placed.
(A) (B)
Fig. 15.1 Weaving process
15.2 PREPARING LOOM FOR WEAVING

15.2.1 BEAMING
Beaming comprises winding the full width of the warp yarns in a single
winding operation on the weaving beam (i.e., the beam which is to be
placed on the loom). The warp yarns can be wound from a creel or a
warping beam.
15.2.2 KNOTTING
Knotting is tying two threads to each other or to tie thread to any other
object. The joint between one thread to another or object is called Knot.
Different types of knots:
• Dog knot- tying of dog’s knot is simple and quick but it is bulkier than
weavers.
• Fisherman's knot: -it is most popular, but it is not at all convenient to
lie by hand. They have a diameter 3-4 times that of parent’s yarn and
are popular for filament, cotton, woolen, worsted and blends.
▪ There are 3 verities of fisherman's knot i.e.
I. SS
II. SL
III. LL With S&L denoting the direction of 2 ends with
the component over knots
• Reef knot: - The reef knot can be considered an unsafe knot when
human life depends on it. If used to tie two ends of any rope or cord
together this knot will spill easily when any of the ends are tugged.

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• Weaver's knot: -
▪ The weavers knot has a number of variations which for ease of
classification are called weavers’ knot.
▪ The method of tying each knot is similar and they are usually
started with both strands to be joined held in the left hand. The
knot is then worked with the right hand to bring it into shape.
▪ It has very less slippage.
▪ Weaver's knot is specially used in cotton threads.
▪ Weavers’ knots are a vital part of the textile industry. Without
them all traditional woven materials would undone.
Factors affecting quality of a yarn knot-

1. Resistance to slippage: - most of the knot fail in downstream process is
due to slippage. Degree of slippage depends on fiber type blend,
composition, linear density.
2. Size of knot: - A bigger knot causes serious obstruction as it passes
through small path like healed eyes, reed dent and knitting needles etc. it
leads to uneven tension and results in breakage.
3. Knot tail ends: - the tail length should basically be judged from the
linear density and rigidity. For yarn of lower D and rigidity, the tail
length should be short and vice versa for greater LD and rigidity.
Fig. 15.2 Staubli, Topmatic Knotting machine
KNOTTING MACHINE
BRAND- Staubli, Topmatic
PRICE- 3-6 lakhs

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15.2.3 DRAWING IN-

Before the weaver’s beam is mounted on the loom, each end is threaded
through a heald eye and the reed; it also supports a drop wire. To pass the
warp threads through the hole of the drop wire is known as pinning. If a
single warp breaks drop wire will drop. As a result, Machine will stop
instantly to avoid end missing
(A) (B)
Fig. 15.3 Drawing in process
15.2.4 DENTING:
Denting means drawing the warp thread through the dent as required by
reed plan and this determines more accurately the width of the fabric and
the ends per cm.
Fig. 15.4 Denting process
15.2.5 DRAFTING:
Drafting is known as the selection of harnesses for individual warp threads
according to the design.
15.2.6 TYING IN:

Tying-in is used when a fabric is being mass produced. The tail end of the
warp from the exhausted weaver’s beam is tied to the beginning of the new
warp. Therefore, if every end on the new beam is tied to its corresponding
end on the old beam, the drawing-in process can be omitted.

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15.3 TYPE OF WEAVING MACHINES USED IN JAIPURIA SILK

MILL:
15.3.1 DOBBY WEAVING
Dobby cloth is a type of woven fabric known for having small geometric
patterns. It is also known for being very textured. It is made on a special
machine known as a dobby loom. A dobby loom is a type of floor loom that
controls all the warp threads using a device called a dobby. Dobby fabrics
have a great variation and a large number of uses. It can be woven with fine
yarns to make dress shirts. Thicker or fluffier yarns can be also used for home
furnishing material such as curtains and sofas.
Jaipuria had very wide range of beautiful fabrics that were being made from
dobby loom. Fabrics were being made from silk, cotton, polyester and linen.
The weaves being used in designs were twill, plain, and satin (mostly). They
had a different section for dobby which was next to jacquard looms. One
worker was assigned for each of the machines to operate.
DOBBY MACHINE USED IN JAIPURIA-

ALPHA PGA Dobby Weaving Machine
(A) (B)
Fig. 15.5 ALPHA PGA Dobby weaving machine

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS-
• Machine name: Dobby loom ( shuttle less)
• Model name: ALPHA PGA
• Heddle Frames Per Loom: 12
• Weft feeding: 6
• No. of M/c: 16
• Max. Speed: 700 rpm
• Width of the Fabric: 2.5-3 m
• Machine Cost: 30 lakhs
• Wastage (%): 5
• Speed: 260- 300 rpm
• Weaving length/min: 1.5inches average
• Total productivity(per 24hr): 34,560 inches in length

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1. Shaft
2. Heald wire: This part is related to shedding mechanism. The heald shaft
is made of wood or metal such as aluminium. It carries a number of heald
wires through which the ends of the warp sheet pass.
3. Reed: This part is related to shedding mechanism. The he aid shaft is
made of wood or metal such as aluminium. It carries a number of heald
wires through which the ends of the warp sheet pass
4. Warp beam
5. Back rest - to maintain tension
6. Drop pins: Warp stop-motion stops the loom in the event of an end
break. The system is activated by the lightweight metallic drop wires
which have profiled shape.
7. Front rest
8. Accumulator : to pull weft yarn in proper tension
9. Bobbin stand
10. Indicator
11. Temple : During the process of weaving, fabrics can decrease in width
(draw in) due to the interlacement of the weft material. Temples prevent
this decrease by keeping fabrics at a fixed width, thus requiring more
weft to enter the weave with each pass of the shuttle.
Total no. of dobby machines in Jaipuria- 15
15.3.2 JACQUARD WEAVING

This mechanism is probably one of the most important weaving inventions as
Jacquard shedding made possible the automatic production of unlimited
varieties of pattern weaving. The term "Jacquard" is not specific or limited to
any particular loom, but rather refers to the added control mechanism that
automates the patterning.
The types of fabric produced in jacquard machine is :

• Velvet is a fabric produced by weaving weft and warp threads in the form of
loops, which are then cut to create the pile effect on the fabric face.
• Brocade is a heavy, Jacquard-type fabric with a raised pattern or floral
design.
• Damask fabric is a firm and glossy Jacquard-patterned fabric made of silk,
wool, linen, cotton, or synthetic fibers, with a pattern formed by weaving.
• It is characterized by the combination of satin and satin weave.
• Double cloth is a kind of woven fabric woven from two sets of warp threads
and two sets of weft threads

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ELECTRONIC JACQUARD LOOMS

Bonas Machine Company Ltd. launched the first electronic Jacquard at
ITMA, Milan in 1983. Although the machines were initially small, modern
technology has allowed Jacquard machine capacity to increase significantly,
and single end warp control can extend to more than 10,000 warp ends. This
avoids the need for repeats and symmetrical designs and allows almost
infinite versatility. The computer-controlled machines significantly reduce the
down time associated with changing punched paper designs, thus allowing
smaller batch sizes. However, electronic Jacquards are costly and may not be
required in a factory weaving large batch sizes, and smaller designs.
JACQUARD MECHANISM
The mechanism consists of levers that connects the main shaft to the knife. It
is the connection that controls the up and own movement of the knives. The
knives in turn move up and down the hooks to form shed according to
weaving design.
GENERAL STRUCTURE OF JACQUARD MACHINE
Jacquard system are placed on top of the weaving machine, symmetrically at
the middle of the machine on the mounting frame. The Jacquard machine is
provided with energy by the electricity power supply unit.
The Structural elements of jacquard machine are:
1. Jacquard machine
2. Power supply unit
3. Mounting frame
4. Loom
5. Jacquard computer
6. Jacquard supporting structure
The Component elements are:
1. Jacquard harness: The jacquard harness is the system of cords, healds and
lingoes that transmit the movement of the hooks to the individual warp
threads.
2. Harness system: A jacquard harness is the interface between jacquard
machine and warp yarns. It can consist up to 2000 to 38000 cords over a
weaving width of 1-6 mtrs. A single harness cord maybe attached to a
single hook tie for width wise repeated weaves for weaving the same
design over the width of the fabric.
3. Harness cords: Harness cords are attached to the heald, each with an eye
through which a warp yarn is threaded. Healds are selected according to
the warp setting and the yarn count of the warp yarn.
4. Comber Board: It is a board of hardwood or more usually sections of
hardwood assembled in frame. Each section of comber board has drill in
it. the number and order of holes are similar to that of the jacquard head.
5. Knife/ Cutting Blade: Knifes are present at the edge of the machine to cut
out the extra fabric at the selvedge.

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JACQUARD HARNESS SYSTEM:

Jacquard system can be set as such to weave fabric with 2 repeat ore 4 repeats
of the design. The machine which was meant for the weaving of fabric with 2
design repeats throughout the width of the fabric has 6144 hooks. The machine
set up 4-repeat design pattern on the fabric has 2688 hooks.
• 2-design repeats= 6144 hooks
• 4 design repeats= 2688 hooks
Setting of a jacquard loom having 4-design repeat:

• 1-16 hooks= empty for balancing
• 17-2656 hooks= design pattern
• 2657-2688= selvedge/ leno weave
A jacquard system, once set cannot be changed later. The hooks from 1-16 are
empty for balancing of the harness. The design pattern starts from the 17th
hook and continues up to 2656 hooks with repeats splitting up at point O,
which is the point of intersection. It constitutes of 4-design repeats divided
through 2640 hooks. The hooks from 2657- 2688 are for selvedge. Leno weave
is used for the weaving of selvedge.
Leno weave: In leno weaving, the warp yarns are twisted around one another,
locking the filling yarns in place. Leno weave is also called Gauze weave or
Cross weave. The leno weave is used where relatively a low number of yarns
are involved. This is a construction of woven fabrics in which the resulting
fabric is very sheer, yet durable.
Setting of a jacquard loom having 2-design repeat:
• 1-176= Empty hooks
• 177-432= 256 hooks which are controlled by 5 harnesses
• 433-5712= 5280 hooks for the purpose of design repeat
• 5713-5968= last 256 hooks for balancing and for selvedge, also.
• 5969-6144-= empty hooks.
Total no. of hooks required for a 2-design repeat jacquard fabric= 256 + (5280
* 2) + 256 = 11072 hooks.
Jacquard system has chips. Each chip controls 128 hooks which are formatted
with the help of computer software.
Fig. 15.6 Diagrammatic representation of

four repeat harness system of jacquard loom

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JACQUARD WEAVING MACHINE

In Jaipuria industry, machine used for jacquard weave is STAUBALI
Fig. 15.7 Staubali jacquard weaving machine
SPECIFICATION OF JACQUARD WEAVING MACHINE

• Machine name: Jacquard Weaving Machine
• Brand: Somet Alpha
• Number of Machines: 18
• Working width : 2.2 m
• Machine Speed: 450-500 picks per minute
• Maximum number heads: 24 heads
• No. of hooks 2-designs repeats= 6144 hooks
• 4- designs repeats=2688 hooks
• Weft Density: 1 to 20 weft/cm
• Warp Density: Separate electric stop motion
• Selvedge: Leno device binding with 2 ends
• Machine drive: Electro motor and an electromagnetic
• clutch
• Weaving length/min: 1.2-inch average
• Wastage(%): 5
• Total productivity: 31,104 inches in length
• Machine Cost: 60 Lakhs for 2 repeats

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15.3.3 VELVET WEAVING

Velvet has always been a luxury fabric. Difficult to produce, woven of lustrous
silk, and with a rich depth of color and texture from the cut or uncut woven
pile.
Velvet is woven on a special loom that weaves two thicknesses of the material
at the same time. Velvet pile is created by warp or vertical yarns and velveteen
pile is created by weft or fill yarns. Velvet is difficult to clean because of its
pile, but modern dry-cleaning methods make cleaning more feasible.
(A) (B)
Fig. 15.8 Velvet weaving process
The Base Fabric:

Jacquard machine is used for the ground weaves to enlighten the ground
structure of the fabric with Jacquard patterns. The use of a Jacquard allows for
elaborate designs to be woven into the ground fabric, independent of the pile
design. The number of hooks will be defined by the number of warp ends used
and the number of repeats to be woven over the fabric width.
Beam let-off motion:

Depending on the construction of the ground weave, the number of warp ends
used and the warp tension needed, the machine can be equipped with a single
beam let-off motion. The let-off rate is electronically controlled. The tension is
obtained by a lever system with tensioning weights. The number of ends on the
warp beam will be defined by the type of weave construction and the way the
pile needs to be integrated into the fabric. One can e.g., choose to weave with
only two ground warp ends per pile, or with 3,4 or even up to six ground warp
ends per pile. The higher the number of warp ends per pile, the higher the
definition of the pattern in the ground fabric will be. Also, the way of fixation
of the pile will be better.

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MACHINE USED IN VELVET WEAVING

In Jaipuria industry, machines used for velvet weave is Metex Wire-Flex 14.
The machine used for velvet is Wireflex and Metex Jacquard Loom. The
WIREFLEX machine is a special type of weaving machine used for the
production of pile fabrics. The pile is obtained by inserting steel rods or wires
in the top shed. Pile yarns supplied from a creel form loops above the steel
wires. During extraction of the wires the pile can be cut or uncut (loops) or a
combination of both. Material used for ground fabric: cotton, polyester,
acrylics, wool, silk, blends, technical fibers. Material used for pile: cotton,
linen, wool, acrylics, viscose, silk, blends, technical fibers.
(A) (B)
Fig. 15.9 Metex wireflex staubali velvet weaving machine
SPECIFICATIONS OF THE MACHINE

• Brand Name : METEX WIREFLEX 14
• Jacquard Equipped with: Staubli
• Harness : for 4 x 1680 ends for the ground fabric
• Reed space : 1450 mm
• No. of M/c : 3
• Productivity (24 hrs) : 3456”
• Cost of M/c : 52lakhs
• Working width : 2’’ less than loom width
• Cloth Roll Diameter : 320 mm on loom
• Pile Height : 0.9mm to 0.6mm
• Installed Power : 0.5 KW
• Width of the weaving area : 3mtr
• Creel for pile bobbins : .+/-3800-bobbins
• Take up : Independent motor, micro controller
• Picking type : Under pick motion
• Loom width : 2 mtrs
• Space required per machine : 11’2’’*11’

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PROCESS:
Generally, the ratio of base yarn to the pile yarn is 1:3, as the pile yarn is
consumed more in this process.
1. PIRN WINDING: The name of the pirn winding machine is SSM Reeling
machine. The consumption of pile yarns during the weaving is individual for
each pile end in relation to its use in the chosen design, so it is impossible to
put the pile warp on a warp beam. Hence large yarn packages are reeled into
smaller pirns. 1 Cheese= 35 metres = 920 lb, which is reeled into small cones.
2. THE PILE CREEL: Each pile end is fed from an individual yarn package.
The pirn winded yarns are put on a vertical creel. In order to build up a tension
on the pile yarn and also to compensate for the yarn movement during the
shedding special compensator weights are used. The weights are hung over the
pile ends close to the yarn package. These smaller packages are in the set of
16*20 (creels). There are total of 12 creels used for the pile formation. This
makes it a total of 3800 bobbins for pile formation.
3. THE WEFT INSERTION: The weft yarn is inserted from the left-hand side
of the machine where a carrier rapier head takes the weft yarns by the tip
towards the middle of the weaving machine. At that point, the weft end is
transferred to the puller rapier head that pulls the weft through to the right-
hand side where the puller rapier is opened in order to release the weft. The
rapier heads are fixed to a set of flexible rapiers. Weft insertion speed apart
from the wire insertion – can go up to 200 Rpm. The total weaving speed will
be lower as the wire motion reduces the speed considerably. Depending on the
type of yarns used, on the density to be woven and on the types of wires used
the industrial weaving speed will be situated between 110 and 160 Rpm on a
150 cm wide machine and in between 75 and 90 Rpm on a 300 cm machine.
4. THE PILE WIRE Pile wires are specially made very fine steel rods rolled in
several passages into the final dimension as requested for the specific pile
height. When such a wire is extracted from the fabric it leaves loops in the
fabric. The wire has a circular section in diameters from 0.7 to 2.6 mm. The
surface of the steel wires is hardened and polished in order to reduce the
friction between the wire and the pile yarns. It is even possible to weave with
mixed sets of wires. With this combination one can obtain both loop pile and
cut pile in the same fabric.
• Cut pile – In cut pile a blade attached to the wire is passed to cut the
desired loops.
• Loop pile – Some piles are left in place for design purpose. The loops
can help durability or absorbency.

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4. WIRE INSERTION MOTION :The wires are inserted in sequence, this

means that for each wire that has been inserted, another wire is extracted. In
order to provide a perfect guiding of each wire during the insertion, each
wire is pulled out of the fabric into a specially shaped steel guide. During the
extraction sequence this guide is located in the front position. For the
insertion sequence the guide is moved to the back position by means of a
servo motor. The acceleration and deceleration of the movement is perfectly
under control. Also, insertion motion of the Wireflex machine is completely
driven by means of servo motors.
5. BASE FABRIC: Jacquard machine is used for the ground weaves to

enlighten the ground structure of the fabric with Jacquard patterns. The use
of a Jacquard allows for elaborate designs to be woven into the ground
fabric, independent of the pile design. The number of hooks will be defined
by the number of warp ends used and the number of repeats to be woven
over the fabric width.
6. BEAM LET OFF MOTION: Depending on the construction of the ground

weave, the number of warp ends used and the warp tension needed, the
machine can be equipped with a single beam let off motion. The let-off rate
is electronically controlled. The tension is obtained by a lever system with
102 tensioning weights. The number of ends on the warp beam will be
defined by the type of weave construction and the way the pile needs to be
integrated into the fabric. One can e.g. choose to weave with only two
ground warp ends per pile, or with 3,4 or even up to six ground warp ends
per pile. The higher the number of warp ends per pile, the higher the
definition of the pattern in the ground fabric will be. Also, the way of
fixation of the pile will be better.

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SECTION 16:
EMBROIDERY
Page- 109
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16.1 INTRODUCTION
Embroidery is the craft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply
thread or yarn. Embroidery is done using both hand and machine. Machine
embroidery is preferred during bulk production. Contemporary embroidery is stitched
with computerized embroidery machine using patterns digitized with embroidery
software. It is most typically done with rayon thread
16.2 COMPUTERIZED EMBROIDERY MACHINE

Embroidery is a craft by using a needle, thread or yarn is sewn on to a base material
or fabric to create a pattern. This is done by computer operated machine; it involves
the use of special threads available in many colors that help to produce various
beautiful patterns.
There are two types of Computer embroidery machine as

• Single head needle machine
• Multi Head needle Machine
With the development of the industrial revolution, Machine embroidery and its mass
production are developing gradually. The earliest machine embroidery used a
combination of machine looms and teams of women embroidering the textiles by
hand. There are various types of machine embroidery. Free-motion sewing machine
embroidery uses a basic zigzag sewing machine. Designs are completed by hand.
16.3 WORKFLOW OF THE DESIGN AND MANUFACTURE

First, design and edit a digitized embroidery pattern file that works with the brand of
machine. Then load the right format file into the embroidery machine and it will file
in the appropriate hoop.
The mechanical aspects of computer embroidery machine can be divided into frame,
embroidery, color changing, frame moving, the hook, the cutting, and the knot and so
on. Among them, the embroidery and the frame moving are the most essential, which
independently and harmoniously completed the embroidery. In order to accomplish a
beauteous embroidery work, needle bar drives the needle and thread to move, the
frame is reciprocating in the plane X and Y Direction

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16.4 FLOW CHART OF EMBROIDERY WORKFLOW
Chart 16.1 Embroidery process flowchart

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16.5 EMBROIDERY ROOM LAYOUT

1. Fabric Store: All the dyed base fabric is stored here in plastic packaging.
2. Stitching section: Bobbin winding and yarn winding processes are done in the
stitching room. There are 5 automatic bobbin winding machines and one yarn
winding machine available.
Fig. 16.1 Stitching Section

3. Embroidery Section : There are 21 machines in total.
Fig. 16.2 Embroidery section

4. Trimming section: After embroidery, trimming of loose yarns is done.
Fig. 16.3 Trimming section

5. Sewing Line : There are 8 sewing machines available for fixing the yarns and any
defect correction.
Fig. 16.4 Sewing line machine

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6. Checking area : After trimming, the final fabric is inspected for any defects
(loose yarns, stain etc.) and then if any defects that can be rectified are found, it is
send to the sewing line and if not, it is sent down for final inspection.
(A) checking loose yarns (B) Spot removal using spot gun
Fig. 16.5 Fabric inspection
6. Rolling machine: A rolling machine is used To roll the fabric
Fig. 16.6 rolling machine
16.6 STEPS OF MACHINE EMBROIDERY

1. Digitizing.
2. These digitized designs can be understood by the machine software to
generate the desired embroidery pattern.
3. Check for digitization accuracy or whether it needs any improvements.
4. After converting the design in digitized format, the format is loaded into the
machine to generate the pattern.
5. The appropriate fabric is then stabilized on the frame.
6. Start the machine and monitor.
Fig. 16.7 Embroidery machines workspace

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16.7 MACHINES USED IN UTM AND JSML

SWF-KOREAB MACHINE SWF MULTI HEADS AUTOMATICE
MBROIDERY MACHINES, SINGLE PHASE 220 VOLTS
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
• Brand: SWF-Korea
• Model Name/Number: SWF SV series multi heads machine
• Automation Grade: Automatic
• Voltage single phase: 220volts
• Types Of Embroidery Machine: Sequin Machine
• Worktable Size embroidery area: 750 x 400
• Automatic Grade: Automatic• Multi Heads Automatic Embroidery Machines
• SV series high speed 1200
MAIN FEATURES-
• More convenient working condition (Increased distance between working plate and
presser foot)
• Stable controller
• High productivity on the basis of high speed improved lubrication system
SPECIFICATIONS
• Max. Speed : Max. 1200 rpm
• Stitch Length : 0.1 ~ 12.7 mm
• Main Motor : Servo Motor x 1
• X-Y Motor : Servo Motor x 1
• Electricity : 1-Phase/3-Phase Voltage [200 ~ 240V] [50/60Hz]
• Power Consumption : 2.7 Kw
• Operation Box : Color LCD Screen
• Bobbin Winder : Standard
• Hook : Option : Large Hook
• Upper Thread Holding Unit : Standard
• Lubrication System : Auto Lubrication System
• Memory Capacity : Standard 4,000,000 Stitches
• Memory Medium : USB
• Safety Device : Emergency Switch, Error Code Message
• Optional Device : SQ30/SQ31D, SQ41i, ZD20, Cording, Boring
SPECIALITY: In this machine cording and embroidery is done together though in

cording the thread is installed manually.

UTM JSML 2022
(A)
(B) (C)
Fig. 16.8 SWF KOREA Automatic embroidery machine
PAX TAJIMA COMPUTER EMBROIDERY MACHINE

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
• Brand: Tajima
• Automation Grade: Automatic
• Model Name/Number: PAX
• Voltage: 440 V
• No. Of Heads: Single Head
• Max Speed For Flat Stitch: 1000 spm
• Material: Iron
• Power Consumption: 4.5kW
• Stitch Length: 12.7 mm
• Country of Origin: Made in India
• Phase: Three Phase
• Frequency: 50 Hz
Perforate, sew and embroider - all within this one machine. Perforation, Multi-Color
Sewing, and Multi-Color Embroidery can all be accomplished on this single machine
without replacing or re-aligning the material so there is no worry about design
displacement. Design possibilities that could not even be dreamt of in the past, have
been brought to life by the PAX machine.

UTM JSML 2022
FEATURES
• Precision and usability, fully incorporating Tajima's embroidery technologies
• High-precision and Stable Finish
• Image High-precision and Stable Finish Due to the structure supporting the frame
inthe back(A) on the right side(B), frame movement is stable and provides high-
precision hole making, sewing and embroidery. The machine incorporates many of
our main functions achieved through our many years of experience for color
change, sewing finish and thread trimming
• Wide work area
• For the electric pattern sewing machine head, the "Bridge Type" is adopted instead
of the space-constraining "Arm Type," so that a wider work area(C) can be
achieved as compared to a common sewing machine.
• It allows a wider application of embroidery to such larger items like car seats and
furniture
• Your creativity instantly reproduced in design data
• Tajima's exclusive digitizing software "DG-S" helps to create designs without
restricting the designers' creativity. The created designs can be easily edited,
reducing mistakes caused by trial and error. Illustrator and/or CAD data can be
converted to perforating data and/or sewing data.*DG16 is required for creation of
embroidery data
• When real leather and urethane are sewn together during machine quilting, the
presser foot may be set at a low level so that the elastic urethane can be held down
securely while still maintaining its volume. This prevents the thread from
loosening and creates a voluminous finish.
• Number of machines according to the length of fabric that can be Embroidered at
one go:
1. 60cm - 18 machines
2. 40cm – 5 machines
(A) (B)
Fig. 16.9 Tajima Automatic Embroidery machine

UTM JSML 2022
16.8 RECTIFICATION PROCESS OF EMBROIDERY DEFECTS

After quality checking of embroidery process, which was done visually on a slanted
table, and stickers were pasted on the defective area; the faulty pieces were then sent
for rectification of those defects. A total of 9 machines were set up in line to rectify
those embroidery defects manually with the help of sewing machine. Inspection is
essentially done 2-3 times as machines are handled by workers and there is a chance
of human error. It is generally a person’s mistake rather than on the failure of a
machine
Following are the main issues which should be sorted and rectified during the
finishing process:
• Thread tails Trim off the thread remains as near to the article as possible and take
care not to cut any locked knots (if made).
• Missing stitches When some stitches are skipped and are found missing, they
should be modified. The simplest way for this is to thread a hand-sewing needle
with a double strand of embroidery thread matching the base fabric and do a hand
satin stitch to fill in the areas, in which the stitches are missing.
• Stray threads They are the threads that often get trapped during the processing of
the stitches on the product or garments. Do not cut the locked knots; these threads
should betrimmed as closely to the stitches as possible.
• Thread loops If one observes thread loops in the same direction as of the stitches,
they should note trimmed. Instead, the embroiderer can use fingernails to pull the
loops to the wrong side or backside of the garment. However, if thread loops are in
an opposite direction of the stitches, it is safe to trim them. They should be
trimmed as closely To the stitches as possible.
• Stains on embroidered product While doing embroidery, the fabric might acquire
some stains like oil, dust, etc. There are many ways of removing stains depending
on the type of fabric and type of stains. Most of the stains can be removed with a
drop of dish soap and water. If this does not work, once the product is dry, you can
spray the area with acetone or bleaching agent in case of white fabrics depending
upon the type of stains.
• Damaged embroidered product The damage caused to the product while doing
embroidery or hooping should be removed properly. One must not finalize and
deliver the product to the client

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 17:
PRINTING

UTM JSML 2022
17.1 TEXTILE PRINTING

Textile printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite patterns or
designs. Improperly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fibre, so as to resist
washing and friction. Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing
proper the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour, in printing one or more
colours are applied to it in certain parts only, andin sharply defined patterns. In
printing, wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers, or silkscreens can be used
to place colours on the fabric. Colourants used in printing contain dyes thickened to
prevent the colour from spreading by capillary attraction beyond the limits of the
pattern or design.
17.2 DIGITAL PRINTING

In UTM & JSML, Digital textile printing is followed. Digital textile printing: It is the
process of adding colorful designs to many kinds of fabric by using digital inkjet
printing technology. In digital textile printing, once the design is created, it can be
directly printed on the fabric from the computer. This process does not require
another step. To print the designs on the fabric digitally, a dye-sublimation printer is
used, which carries out the printing process by using heat to transfer design onto the
fabric.
17.3 PRE-TREATMENT
In digital printing, it is necessary to pre-treat the fabric. This will ensure that the
fabric holds the ink well, and a variety of colors can be attained through the pre-
treatment process. Cotton, viscose rayon and lyocell fabrics are normally jet printed
with reactive dyes by the two-phase method, i.e., the fabric is pre-treated with
thickener and alkali, while the ink contains the dye. The pre-treatment liquor is
normally applied with the aid of a pad mangle, though it could be screen printed. In
either case the fabric must be dried to about 5±7%moisture content before printing.
17.4 REASONS FOR PRE-TREATMENT

• The main reasons for separating the dye ink from thickeners and other chemicals
and applying them separately to the fabric are as follows.
• All-in' inks are less stable and have lower storage stability, e.g., reactive dyes are
more likely to hydrolyse when alkali is present in the ink.
• Chemicals in the ink cause corrosion of jet nozzles; the deleterious effect of
sodium chloride on steel surfaces is well known, for instance; inks for use in
`charged drop 'continuous printers should have low electrical conductivity.

UTM JSML 2022
• Thickeners in the ink often do not have the desired rheological properties.
• Some chemicals can be utilized in pre-treated fabric but would cause stability
problems in the ink; e.g., sodium carbonate as alkali for reactive dye fixation
inacceptable on the fabric but not in the ink.
• The presence of large amounts of salts in aqueous inks reduces the solubility of the
dyes; concentrated inks are required in jet printing due to the small droplet size.
• The advantage of applying thickeners and chemicals separately from the dyes is that
it allows the wettability and penetration properties of the fabric to be adjust
17.5 PRINTING PROCESS

• Padding – Pre-treatment or padding is done by applying a chemical coating to the
fabric. It helps coating chemical to hold and penetrate the reactive dyes more
efficiently.
• The design is uploaded into the software and settings are changed according to the
fabric.
• Printing- the fabric is placed flat on a belt with a sticky coating, which helps to
maintain the fabric and keep it in place. Then the fabric is fed to the printer and it
gets printed.
• Fabric gets dried by the heater.
• Each fabric requires a different length and quantity of steam depending upon the
type and length. So, post treatment is done when the fabric goes through steaming,
washing, drying and ironing.
17.6 POST PROCESSESS

Post-processes include steaming, washing, and drying. Steaming is used for fixing the
dye on the printed fabric. The temperature, pressure, and time should be determined
for optimum results. When the pre-treated fabric has been dried and then jet printed
there is usually little need to provide a drying station to dry the print, as the printing
process is so slow. By the time the fabric is batched on a roll it has dried by exposure
to the warm atmosphere in the room. However, in most instances, fixation and
washing will be necessary. This not only ensures that the full fastness properties of
the dyes are realized but also brightens and alters the colors significantly In UTM
&JSML, the printing is done only on natural fabrics I.e., organza, cotton ,nylon ,silk
,satin ,Viscose). Here printing is not done on synthetic or polyesters.

UTM JSML 2022
17.7 FLOW CHART OF PRINTING PROCESS
Chart 17.1 Printing process flowchart
17.8 MACHINE USED:

MS PRINTING MACHINE – Model MS JP5 EVO (Italy)
• Cost- Rupees 19.5 Lac/machine (approx.)
• Inks are exported from Switzerland
• Cost of per 10 litres ink is Rupees 40,000
• Software used to upload design- neo Stamp 8 (.tiff extension)
Production speed – Up t0 8 colours 55 lin. met. /h
• Production speed CMYK – 100 lin. met. /h
• Printing heads – Up to 4Resolution – 600 x 600 dpi
• Gray level – 16Printing width from – 4 to 72pl

UTM JSML 2022
(A) (B)
Fig. 17.1 MS JP5 EVO printing machine
Fig. 17.2 Color Cabinet of printer
17.9 COLOURS USED FOR PRINTING ARE:

• NOVA CRON BLUE XUS -601
• NOVA CRON MAGENTA XUS-501
• NOVA CRON ORANGE XUS-301
• NOVA CRON DEEPBLACK XUS-2001
• NOVA CRON RED XUS-403
• NOVA CRON YELLOW XUS-102
Fig. 17.3 Color shades used in printer
17.10 BOTTLENECKS IN THE PROCESS OF PRINTING

• Overheating of the machine is common in the printing department. So, air
conditioners have to be switched on at all times the machine is working to reduce
the risk of machine damage.
• Image distortion may occur due to contact of print head with fabric.
• Misprints.
• Dye stains on fabric.
• Colour repetition The chance of defects is low because the machine stops and
shows a caution symbol whenever a defect is about to occur, or the ink is about to
finish

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 18:
INSPECTION

UTM JSML 2022
18.1 QUALITY CONTROL
Responsibilities of the quality control department may vary organization to

organization, but main activities almost remain the same.
Activities of the Quality control department are as follows:
• Setting up Quality Standards
• Establishing Quality SOP
• Quality Assurance
• Quality Control activities at the Pre-production stage
• Auditing inward fabric and trims and ensuring only quality goods are accepted.
• Involvement in product development and sampling stage and take care of quality
aspects of samples.
• Ensure that no faulty fabric is sent for cutting. If a minor fault is present in the
fabric, defects should be marked on the fabric and the same thing must be
communicated to the cutting department.
• Preparing the audit report of the fabric and trims quality.
• Conducting pre-production meeting before production start.
The central laboratory is the part of quality control/quality assurance functions in a

textile unit. The testing laboratory evaluates all in coming and end products of each
section in grey combing, dyeing, recombing, spinning, weaving and finishing.
• The department is used for testing fibres, yarns and fabrics. After the material is
received, the sample from the order is sent for quality assurance or testing.
• All these activities are very essential to get best level of quality appropriate
production efficiencies and minimum possible costs, in the final cloth ready for
packing.
Jaipuria mainly produce home furnishing fabrics. So, the quality inspection is
usually done after weaving process, dyeing(shade variation), printing and
embroidery. Customer usually demands report about abrasion/pilling. In this case
the industry send the products to testing lab they have alliance with(done outside).
And then they send the report of the same to buyers.
The buyers usually don’t need any quality system /report for drapery fabrics, when
they go for heavy upholstery fabrics they will certainly care about abrasion ,the
standard should be acceptable above 30000 rubs. Except that weaving defects is
taken care of manually by the workers. Same followed for embroidery mentioned
in embroidery section

UTM JSML 2022
18.2 INSPECTION MACHINE IN JAIPURIA

In Jaipuria industry (UTM-JSML), machine used for inspection purpose is
ALMAC (Vadodara,India).
(A) (B)
Fig. 18.1 ALMAC Inspection machine
MACHINE SPECIFICATION
1. Variable speed from 0-50 mts/mins
2. 1500mm and 6000mm sizes engineered by us.
3. Inspection platform height I.Om
4. Underneath lighted area is 450mm i height.
5. Power requirements as per country of use.
18.3 CHEMICALS USED

Chemicals used are tetrachloro-ethylene and white petrol for removing black stain.
Other chemicals used are +KKER Swiss
Fig. 18.2 tetrachloro-ethylene Fig. 18.3 K1 Spot remover

spot removing chemical

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 19:
PACKAGING AND
SHIPMENT

UTM JSML 2022
19.1 PACKAGING AND SHIPMENT

Fabric packaging is the process of wrapping, compressing, filling or creating of
goods for the purpose of protection and their appropriate handling. This is the final
process in the production of fabric, which prepares the finished merchandise for
delivery to the customer. It is an important part of the fabric manufacturing process.
Fabric packaging is also use to get lot of attention from the customer.
The production in UTM-JSML operates mainly for two segments of collection: (1)
To export to USA and European markets
(2) For the inhouse design collection and sampling
The orders that come for export to foreign markets have to be approved by the
Central Silk Board of Karnataka or the FKCCI(Federation of Karnataka Chambers
of Commerce and Industry).
19.1.1 OBJECTIVES OF PACKAGING

Two basic objectives of packaging are-
• preventing any damage to the product during transportation
• enhancing the features of the product to the consumer for a sale
19.1.2 WAYS OF PACKING: -

• Sack bags: When the product has to be delivered to the local buyer, it is
wrapped in sack bags.
• Transportation plastic covers: Fabrics are rolled in tubes, wrapped in
plastic covers and taped. The rolls are then transferred into cartons and
sent for transportation.
• Cardboard boxes: A carton package made of quite strong corrugated
material is normally preferred while transporting the boxes or hanging
garments in bulk form.
19.1.3 COST OF BOXES:

• Carton for velvet: it is made of a thicker and persistent cardboard, which
costs around Rs. 200-250.
• Carton for other fabric: Made of regular cartons which cost around Rs.
150
Fig. 19.1 Velvet boxes with suspension in it

UTM JSML 2022
19.2 ACTIVITIES
• Receive the fabrics from finishing as per the following criteria:
▪ Market wise - Exclusive, Export, Institutional, RAL, RMG, Civil and
Stock lot.
▪ Quality wise
▪ Shade wise
• Ensure that fabric must have card with relevant piece details (quality, piece
number, shade number, delivery period, number of pieces).
• Stamping along with piece ticket is done and then sent for finish checking.
• On the finish checkpoint, shade, finish, design of fabric is critically checked under
standard finishing norms.
• Finishing and shades are checked with reference to standard hangers and then the
fabric is released on roll fold machine for unit cutting.
• During this operation, the first piece of each and every new exclusive quality/shade
is taken on first piece inspection table for testing of fabric norms.
• On roll fold machines, units are wrapped by cutter as well as tags and stickers are
put on grey board.
• Units are binded with viscose tape and sealed in low density polythene.
• While processing binding and sealing operation, fabric verification and bar code
sticking is finally completed.
• All the sealed material segregated according to quality and market is delivered.
Fig. 19.2 Borders Fig. 19.3 Rolls wrapped in packets yet to be

packed in cartoon boxes
Fig. 19.5 White packages outside

Fig. 19.4 Cardboard outside (export outside india) ( Domestic transportation)

UTM JSML 2022
19.3 SHIPMENT
Product Before shipping products, a shipper must choose which products they
require and place the order with a manufacturer. It is important to have well-
defined contracts and incoterms with the manufacturer. When placing an order,
make a note of the shipment’s details such as size, weight, number of pallets, etc.,
as well whether or not the goods require a certificate of origin. This information
will be necessary later. The manufacturer will provide a ship date stating when
the products will be ready for pick up by a forwarder, and the shipper should ask
the manufacturer to create a Packing List and a Commercial Invoice for the
order.
1. Request quotes- Clarify details of shipment, including the ship date, detailed
origin and destination addresses, and the dimensions of your freight.
Shipping quote: It represents the cost of shipping that product. This varies based
on (obviously) the weight plus the user's choice of shipping options such as
Standard Post, or FedEx or Overnight Delivery etc. With all the quotes that
you've gathered, you can pick the one that best fit your target rate or preferred
transit time.
2. Prepare necessary documents for the shipping process: generate invoice.

Invoice can either be FOB or CIF. FOB:
The term FOB stands "Free-on-Board Shipping Point." The term means that the
buyer takes delivery of goods being shipped to it by a supplier once the goods
leave the supplier's shipping dock. Since the buyer takes ownership at the point
of departure from the supplier's shipping dock, the supplier should record a sale
at that point.
Cost, Insurance, and Freight (CIF) is an expense paid by a seller to cover the
costs, insurance, and freight against the possibility of loss or damage to a buyer's
order while it is in transit to an export port named in the sales contract. Until the
loading of the goods onto a transport ship is complete, the seller bears the costs
of any loss or damage to the product. Once the freight loads, the buyer becomes
responsible for all other costs.
3. Confirm the shipment details on Fleet
4. Book your freight on Fleet
5. Track and manage your shipment online, 24/7;

Once you receive a booking confirmation email from Fleet, you can start
tracking your shipment online and real time. Other shipment management
features are also available on the platform: invoice, document and contact
organization. 6. Shipment passes through customs inspection at port of entry

UTM JSML 2022
6. Shipment passes through customs inspection at port of entry
7. Receive and pay the bill for customs duties and taxes: The bill will include
duties and taxes directly from the forwarder. Bill must be paid directly to
forwarder. Most forwarders accept payment via check or bank transfer.
8. Receive the shipment: it can be couriered through DHL or UPS.
19.4 FLOWCHART OF SHIPMENT
Chart 19.1 Shipping process flowchart

UTM JSML 2022
20.5 OVERSEAS SHIPMENT

Step 1: Request quotes
Clarify details of shipment, including the ship date, detailed origin and destination
addresses, and the dimensions of your freight. Once this is done, you should start
getting quotes from forwarders. You can either do this by calling, emailing
forwarders; waiting for few days for quotes to get back to compare.
Step 2: Choose the quote that you prefer

With all the quotes that you've gathered, you can pick the one that best fit your
target rate or preferred transit time.
Step 3: Prepare necessary documents for the shipping process
Step 4: Confirm the shipment details on Fleet
Step 5: Book your freight on Fleet
Step 6: Track and manage your shipment online,

24/7 Once you receive a booking confirmation email from Fleet, you can start
tracking your shipment online and real-time. Other shipment management features
are also available on the platform: invoice, document and contact organization.
Step 7: Shipment passes through customs inspection at port of entry
Step 8: Receive and pay the bill for customs duties and taxes
The bill will include duties and taxes directly from the forwarder. Bill must be paid
directly to forwarder. Most forwarders accept payment via check or bank transfer.
Step 9: Receive the shipment

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 20 :
WAREHOUSE

NIFT BHUBANESWAR
UTM JSML 2022
20.1 INTRODUCTION
Finished goods warehouse of a garments industry is the goods storage area where
keep finished garments in carton as per buyer required packing list.
The warehouse used at UTM JSML is a well-maintained unit with storing capacity
oflakh meters of fabric including loose and packed stock. After folding and
temporary packaging is done, the stock is transferred to the warehouse. They have a
special software designed for Tracing the Movement of goods and supplies.
The tags are used to trace the stocks available in the warehouse. Here they are using
three different tags though they have the same unique number and ID.The three tags
they use at different steps are:
• For internal use (from supplier)
• For company use
• For export
The tag contains following information:

• Piece Sl no.
• No. of pieces
• Batch no
• Bale/box no.
• Order no.
• Article/color no.
• Care instructions
• Total meters
Once an order is placed sales order and outbound delivery order are generated. The
tags of the required products are scanned. The package planning is done as required
by the customer. For e.g., the customer may ask for a certain quantity in one
package due to labour laws followed in the country of delivery. The products are
packed accordingly and then dispatched for delivery, once billing is done.
Here in UTM & JSML there are 2 go downs one is for Vaya products that are
produced in bulk. Another one is for the export products.
20.2 WHAT HAPPENS TO THE REJECTED PIECES?

The rejected pieces/surplus goods are sold to companies may be from America at
low prices I.e., at production cost as no other customer will accept the defected
pieces. That fabrics costing 8-10 dollars are sold at 4-5 dollars.

UTM JSML 2022
20.3 FLOWCHART
Chart 20.1 warehouse process flowchart

UTM JSML 2022
SECTION 21:
MISCELLANEOUS

UTM JSML 2022
21.1 SOLAR POWER PROJECT

• Owner: Jaipura Silk and Universal Textile Mills
• Project: 288KWp Rooftop Project
• Location: Bengaluru, Karnataka
• Module type: MONO PERC – 380 WP
• Connection type: Grid connected
• Installed: In the year 2019
The project includes to introducing solar panels in order to a cleaner source of energy
for the running of the mills, machines and more. The vision is to make every individual
and organisation, energy independent by providing highly qualitative, innovative, cost-
effective premium solar products and solutions that provide clean, reliable and
sustainable energy around the world.
21.1.1 PROJECT BRIEF
• This project was the first roof top project using state of art very high
efficiency modules with an output of 380Wp.
• The solar cell is of high efficiency MONO PERC configuration which can
give higher generation and also utilize lesser roof top space for the same
capacity.
• The plant is equipped with state of art safety systems to ensure utmost safety
during operation and maintenance of the system.
• The project was commissioned timely despite interruptions due to pandemic.
21.1.2 FLOW PROCESS OF POWER STORAGE AND
CONSUMPTION
• The first solar panels were installed in JSML section for 233 kW.
• For the dyeing section, 62 kW level solar panels were installed in the month
of July 2021.
• For UTM commercial office building 55 kW of solar panels are installed.
• It allows reduction in power consumption and the surplus power produced is
introduced to the main grid.
• The area measurement of one solar panel is 2 meter (1 meter of 48 Volt).
• All the panels are connected in series connection and connected to inverters.
• Inverters of brand Solis and Delta are installed to store the power in the
grids.
(A) (B)
Fig. 21.1 Solar panels for power supply

UTM JSML 2022
21.2 AGRO WASTE REUSE

The company re-used government approved agro waste from ground nut husk
and coffee husk in order to apply the waste and reuse it in the heating system for
the dyeing and drying department at JSML.
The agro wastes collected from local and nearby farmers are turned into wood
Briquette. Wood briquettes are made of dry, untreated wood chips (e.g., wood
shavings). They are pressed with high pressure without any binder. By compact
the wood with this high pressure, it turns into a briquettes. Wood Briquettes are
quality constituted wood briquettes that provides for excellent burning efficiency
and do not pollute the atmosphere as it does not produce.
Fig. 21.2 Agro waste reuse burning furnace

UTM JSML 2022
21.3 GLOSSARY
1. Why does the waste water from R.0. plant 1 goes to R.0. feed tank and not
directly R.0. plant 2 for filtration?
- Because there is a limit of water R.O. can filter in a day.
2. What is the use of Evaporator?

- Evaporator evaporates the collected rejected water after R.O Processing to the
atmosphere
3. Where does government take the slurry? And how often do they collect the
waste?
- Company does not know where the government takes the slurry. The government
collects the waste every six months.
4. Where is the printing after process done?

- The company has tied up with several industries for finishing processes one of
which is Pathi Prints.
5. Why some hanks was covered in plastic for dyeing?

- The hanks were tied in plastic for multi colour yarn dyeing process.
6. How does multi- colour yarns produced in cheese dyeing?

- Multi colour yarn can not be produced in cheese.
7. How do they dry cheese in Monga Strayfield machine?

- They simply adjust the height of the machine.
8. What CSR duties does your industry follows?

- The company doesn't have a CSR team as such but they give local artisans hand
embroidery work.
9. Wouldn't it be more cheaper to open a finishing unit in a longer run?

- Yes, they had printing unit previously but due to not getting desired result and due
to the lack of employees the company hasn’t.
10. How do you manage to deliver the orders on time?

- The company takes multiple orders at a time and hence asks for extra time for
delivery each time.

UTM JSML 2022
CONCLUSION & LEARNING OUTCOME

In a nutshell, interning at Universal textile mills - Jaipuria Silks, gave us the
knowledge of how a textile industry works. In this two weeks, we have been able to
make practical sense of our theoretical knowledge. UTM-JSML gave us the
opportunity to observe and experience the process flow of how a yarn is converted to
a fabric. We also got a chance to understand the management process from production
planning to merchandising. Interacting with different managers and supervisors gave
us an insight of how tedious managing each process can get.
We have learnt how proper planning can lead to better productivity and efficiency.
Even after not having their own finishing unit, UTM-JSML still manage to get the
task done on time, which shows how good bonding between industries is an important
factor.
The company allowed us to explore and ideate new ideas. They were open to
suggestions for continuous improvement and initiate the implementation.
To conclude, this internship has helped us in many ways and taught us how to be
more professional.

UTM JSML 2022
BIBLIOGRAPHY
▪ The company details, financial status and the hierarchy from
• JAIPURIA SILK MILLS PRIVATE LIMITED - Company, directors

and contact details | Zauba Corp. (2022, April 30).
• JAIPURIA SILK MILLS PRIVATE LIMITED - Company Profile,
Directors, Revenue & More - Tofler (2022, August 2022)
• About Us - VAYA Homes | Decorative Fabrics - VAYAHOME, (2021,
May 6)
▪ EMIS Insights Industry. INDIA TEXTILE SECTOR REPORT 2021/2025.

(2021, February).
▪ All the process details and machine specification information’s are directly
collected from the industry.
▪ All the pictures regarding the industry used in the report belong to us.
▪ Rest of the graphic images are collected from google

UTM JSML 2022
ANNEXURES
1. YARN SAMPLES
NIFT BHUBANESWAR Page- i

UTM JSML 2022
NIFT BHUBANESWAR Page- ii

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NIFT BHUBANESWAR Page- iii

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NIFT BHUBANESWAR Page- iv

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NIFT BHUBANESWAR Page- v

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NIFT BHUBANESWAR Page- vi

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Page- vii
UTM JSML 2022
2. YARN LIST
NIFT BHUBANESWAR Page- viii

UTM JSML 2022
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UTM JSML 2022
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UTM JSML 2022
3. TRANSPORT BILL
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UTM JSML 2022
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DOCUMENTATION

Universal Textile Mills

UNDER GUIDANCE OF:

UNDER GUIDANCE OF:

UTM JSML NIFT BHUBANESWAR

Name: Mr. Nandkishore Baraik

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3 Various departmental Process 19

5 The design studio 32

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8 Water and power supply 45

9 Supply chain management 47

13 Effluent treatment plant 82

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14 Coning and warping 88

19 Package and shipment 126

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FIG. DESCRIPTION PAGE

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4.8 Weaving area 02 layout 29

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12.17 Sample cheese dyeing machine 72

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17.2 Colour cabinet of printer 123

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2.1 Hierarchy of directors of UTM JSML 11

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TABLE DESCRIPTION PAGE

12.1 Light sources of colour matching cabinet 67

12.2 Total number of hank Dyeing machine 68

12.3 Total number of cheese dyeing machine 71

12.4 Total numbers of Hydroextractors 78

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Textile internship as a module in the course of Apparel Production emphasizes the

This document is mainly centralized on how various departments in UTM-JSML

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The main objectives of this internship at the UTM-JSML industry was:

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1.3 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

The overall functioning of UTM-JSML is studied and analyzed.

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1.5 INTERNSHIP SCHEDULE

DATE DAY TASK

07.06.2022 2(TUESDAY) HANK DYEING AND SAMPLE

08.06.2022 3(WEDNESDAY) CHEESE DYEING, DRYING,

09.06.2022 4 (THURSDAY) WINDING, CONING, WARPING,

10.06.2022 5 (FRIDAY) RAW MATERIALS,WEAVING

13.06.2022 6 (MONDAY) EMBRIODERY, VELVET,

14.06.2022 7 (TUESDAY) QUALITY CONTROL

15.06.2022 8 (WEDNESDAY) DESIGN STUDIO,

16.06.2022 9 (THURSDAY) PACKAGING, SHIPMENT.

17.06.2022 10 (FRIDAY) BUDGETING AND COSTING

18.06.2022 11 (SATURDAY) DOCUMENTATION AND REPORT