357 XPG

357XP/359
Workshop manual
101 91 17-26
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Workshop manual
Husqvarna 357XP/G and 359/G
Contents
Introduction ........................................................... 2
Safety regulations ................................................. 3
General instructions ........................................... 3
Special instructions ............................................ 3
Special tools .......................................................... 4
Technical data ....................................................... 6
Construction and function ................................... 8
Carburettor ......................................................... 8
Troubleshooting .................................................. 10
Repair instructions ............................................. 12
Chain brake ...................................................... 12
Silencer ............................................................ 14
Chain catcher ................................................... 14
Stop switch ....................................................... 15
Stop switch – resistance measurement ........... 15
Choke control ................................................... 16
Throttle trigger .................................................. 17
Hand grip heater .............................................. 18
Starter assembly .............................................. 20
Starter cord ...................................................... 21
Recoil spring .................................................... 21
Ignition module – testing .................................. 22
Ignition module and flywheel ............................ 22
Generator ......................................................... 23
Centrifugal clutch ............................................. 25
Oil pump ........................................................... 27
Carburettor ....................................................... 29
Carburettor – pressure testing ......................... 32
Carburettor – adjustment ................................. 36
Fuel tank .......................................................... 37
Fuel filter .......................................................... 38
Fuel hose ......................................................... 38
Piston and cylinder ........................................... 40
Decompression valve – pressure testing ......... 41
Cylinder – pressure testing .............................. 43
Crankcase and crankshaft ............................... 43
Crankshaft bearings ......................................... 44
Repairing damaged threads ............................. 46
Guide bar bolts ................................................. 46
Appendix A, Carburettor – EPA models ........... 47
English – 1

Introduction
Arrangement of the manual Troubleshooting
This workshop manual can be used in two different These pages describe the most common faults that
ways. affect a chainsaw. They are divided into four
different groups with the most likely faults de-
• To repair a specific sub-assembly on a chainsaw. scribed first.
• To dismantle and reassemble a complete
chainsaw.
Repair instructions
Repairing a specific sub-assembly The section that describes how to repair the
If a specific sub-assembly on the chainsaw needs chainsaw consists of detailed, step-by-step instruc-
to be repaired: tions. It explains in detail the special tools, lubri-
cants and bolt torques that are needed when
1. Look up the page referring to the relevant sub- working on each component.
assembly.
2. Follow the instructions under the headings:
Removal/Dismantling
Cleaning and inspection
Refitting/Reassembly
This workshop manual covers the following
Dismantling and reassembling the entire chainsaw models:
chainsaw 357XP/G
359/G
If the entire chainsaw is to be dismantled, follow
the instructions under the heading “Removal/
Dismantling”.
Work through the manual and follow the instruc-

tions given in each section under the heading
“Removal/Dismantling”.
Then follow all the “Cleaning and inspection”

instructions in each section.
Working from the back of the manual, follow all the

instructions under the headings “Refitting/
Reassembly” in reverse order.
Each of the sections covering removal/dismantling

and refitting/reassembly include the relevant
lubrication instructions and bolt torques for each
stage of repair.
Construction and function

This chapter gives a simple description of the
chainsaw carburettor and its various parts.
2 – English

Safety regulations
General instructions Special instructions
This workshop manual gives detailed instructions The fuel that is used in a chainsaw poses the
on how to troubleshoot, repair and test a chainsaw. following hazards:
This section also describes the various safety
precautions that should be taken when carrying out • The fuel and its fumes are toxic.
repairs.
• May cause irritation to skin or eyes.
The workshop manual has been written for person- • May cause breathing difficulties.
nel who are assumed to have general experience • Highly flammable.
of repairing and servicing chainsaws.
Workshops where chainsaws are repaired must be When using compressed air the air jet should
equipped with safety equipment that meets local never be pointed at the body. Air can be forced into
regulations. the bloodstream and cause fatal injury.
No-one should carry out repairs on a chainsaw Wear ear protection when testing saws.
until they have read and understood the contents
of this workshop manual. After testing a saw do not touch the silencer until it
has cooled down. The silencer gets very hot and
Chainsaws are type-approved to meet the relevant you may burn yourself. Wear protective gloves
safety legislation, but this only applies when the when working on the silencer.
saw is fitted with the cutting equipment specified in
the user’s manual. The fitting of any other equip- The guide bar, chain and clutch cover (chain brake)
ment, or of accessories or parts that are not must be fitted before the saw is started. If not, the
approved by Jonsered, could mean that the saw no clutch may come loose and cause injury.
longer meets these safety requirements and the
person who carried out the work may be held Poor chain lubrication can result in failure of the
responsible for its non-conformance. chain, which could cause serious or fatal injury.
In this workshop manual the following boxes Take care to ensure that the spring inside the
indicate where caution should be taken. starter assembly does not fly out and cause injury.
Wear eye protection. If the spring is under com-
pression when the pulley is removed it could fly out
WARNING! and cause injury.
The warning text warns of the risk
of personal injury if the instruc- Before removing the tensioning spring from the
tions are not followed. chain brake, ensure that the brake is in the on
position, otherwise the spring may fly out and
cause injury.
After repair, the chain brake must be checked as

NOTE!
described in the section “Chain brake – operating
The warning text warns of the risk of test”.
material damage if the instructions are
not followed. Always consider the fire risk. A chainsaw can
produce sparks that could start a fire.
Inspect the chain catcher and replace it if it is

damaged.
English – 3

Special tools
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
4 – English

Special tools
13 14 15
16 17 18
Item Description Used for Order no.

1 Assembly pliers Fitting spark plug guard 502 50 06-01
2 Allen key For M5 bolts 502 50 18-01
3 Crankshaft tool Fitting crankshaft seal 502 50 30-16
4 Vacuum gauge Vacuum test 502 50 37-01
5 Pressure gauge Pressurisation during testing 502 50 38-01
6 Fork Fitting clutch spring 502 50 67-01
7 Piston fitting kit Fitting piston 502 50 70-01
8 Fuel filter hook Withdrawing the fuel 502 50 83-01
9 Clamp stand Clamping the saw 502 51 02-01
10 Feeler gauge Adjusting ignition module 502 51 34-02
11 Clutch tool Centrifugal clutch 502 52 22-02
12 Cover plate Sealing during pressure testing 502 54 11-02
13 Piston stop Locking crankshaft 502 54 15-01
14 Stop plate Locating intake gaiter 502 54 17-01
15 Test plug Checking ignition module 502 71 13-01
16 Rev counter Adjusting carburettor 502 71 14-01
17 Pressure tester Connection to cylinder 503 84 40-02
18 Puller Frame bearing 504 90 90-02
English – 5

Technical data
Displacement Cylinder bore Stroke Max power/speed

cm3/cubic inches Ø mm/Ø inches mm/inches kW/hp/rpm
357XP: 57 / 3,5 46,0 / 1,81 34,0 / 1,34 3,2 / 9 600

359: 59 / 3,6 47,0 / 1,85 34,0 / 1,34 2,9 / 9 000
Spark plug gap Ignition system Air gap Carburettor type

mm/inches mm/inches
357XP: 0,5 / 0,02 FHP ET 0,3 / 0,012 Walbro HDA 174

(EPA) Walbro HDA 175
359: 0,5 / 0,02 FHP ET 0,3 / 0,012 Walbro HDA 174
(EPA) Walbro HDA 175
Effective cutting length Chain speed at Chain pitch Drive link

cm/inches max power – revs mm/inches mm/inches
m/s – rpm
357XP: 33-61 / 13-24 21,4 / 9 600 8,25 / 0,325/ 9,52/3/8 1,5 / 0,058
359: 31-58 / 13-24 20,1 / 9 000 8,25 / 0,325/ 9,52/3/8 1,5 / 0,058
6 – English

Technical data
rpm
Idling speed Engagement speed Max. speed Spark plug

rpm rpm rpm
357XP: 2 700 3 800 14 000 Bosch RCJ 7Y, NGK BPMR 7A

359: 2 700 3 800 13 500 Bosch RCJ 7Y, NGK BPMR 7A
GAS OIL
Fuel tank capacity Oil pump capacity at Oil tank capacity Automatic oil pump
Litres/US pints 8,500 rpm, Litres/US pints
ml/min
357XP: 0,68 / 1,44 5 - 15 0,38 / 0,80 Yes

359: 0,68 / 1,44 5 - 15 0,38 / 0,80 Yes
Weight without bar and chain Weight with bar and chain Heated hand grips
kg / lbs kg / lbs
357XP: 5,5 / 12,1 6,3 / 13,9 -

357XPG: 5,6 / 12,4 6,4 / 14,1 Yes
359: 5,5 / 12,1 6,3 / 13,9 -
359G: 5,6 / 12,4 6,4 / 14,1 Yes
English – 7

Carburettor The carburettor works in different ways depending
on the setting:
The carburettor consists of three sub-systems:
• Cold start mode
• Idling mode
• Part throttle mode
• Full throttle mode
• The metering unit (A) which contains the jets

and the fuel control mechanism. This measures
out the right amount of fuel to suit the speed of
the saw and the power demand.
In the cold start mode the choke valve (D) is
completely closed. This increases the vacuum in
• The mixing unit (B) consists of the choke, the carburettor so that fuel is sucked through the
diffuser jets and throttle valve. This is where the diffuser jets faster (E).
air and fuel are mixed to create a flammable
mixture.
• The pump unit (C) pumps fuel from the tank to

the metering system inside the carburettor. One
side of the pump diaphragm is connected to the
crankcase and pulses as a result of pressure
changes in the crankcase. The other side of the
diaphragm sucks in the fuel.
In idling mode the throttle valve (F) is closed. Air is

sucked through an aperture in the throttle valve
and a small amount of fuel is supplied through the
diffuser jet (E).
8 – English

In part throttle mode the throttle valve (F) is par-

tially open. Fuel is supplied through the diffuser jets
(E).
In full throttle mode both valves are open and fuel

is supplied through all the diffuser jets (E).
English – 9

Troubleshooting
The various faults that can affect a chainsaw are divided into four groups. In each group the likely symp-
toms are given on the left and possible causes are listed on the right. The most likely faults are given first,
and so on.
Starting Idling (low rpm) (cont.)
Difficulty starting Adjust L screw Idles when L Worn needle valve

Air filter blocked screw closed Leaking control diaphragm/
Choke not working cover plate
Worn choke pivot Needle valve assembly sticking
Worn choke valve Worn needle valve lever
Fuel filter blocked Faulty diffuser jet
Fuel line blocked
Piston ring seized Idling uneven Fuel filter blocked
Blocked impulse channel Fuel line blocked
Leaking air intake hose (rubber)
Carburettor Loose or faulty fuel pipe Loose carburettor mounting
leaking fuel Hole in diaphragm bolts
Worn needle valve Worn throttle valve pivot
Needle valve assembly sticking Loose throttle valve screw
Needle valve set too high Worn throttle valve
Leak in metering system (air Needle valve assembly
or fuel) sticking
Loose cover on carburettor Leak in metering system (air
pump side or fuel)
Metering system centre knob
Flooding when Worn needle valve is worn
engine not Needle valve set too high Hole in diaphragm
running Needle valve assembly sticking Leaking control diaphragm/
cover plate
Crankcase leaking
Idling (low rpm)
L screw requires Fuel line blocked
Will not idle Adjust L screw constant Needle valve set too high
Leaking air intake hose (rubber) adjustment Needle valve assembly sticking
Loose carburettor mounting bolts Leak in metering system (air
Loose or faulty fuel hose or fuel)
Fuel filter blocked Leaking control diaphragm/
Fuel line blocked cover plate
Fuel tank vent blocked Faulty diffuser jets
Throttle valve pivot stiff Crankcase leaking
Throttle pushrod sticking
Defective throttle return spring Too much fuel at Needle valve set too high
Bent throttle stop idling Needle valve assembly sticking
Faulty diffuser jet Metering system damaged
Worn needle valve
Idling too rich Adjust L screw Leaking control diaphragm/
Worn needle valve cover plate
Needle valve set too high Metering system incorrectly
Worn needle valve lever assembled
Leaking control diaphragm/cover
plate
Needle valve assembly sticking
10 – English

Troubleshooting
High rpm Acceleration and retardation

Will not run Adjust H screw Does not Adjust L screw
at full throttle Blocked air filter accelerate Adjust H screw
Blocked fuel tank vent Blocked air filter
Blocked fuel filter Blocked fuel tank vent
Fuel line blocked Blocked fuel filter
Loose or damaged fuel hose Fuel line blocked
Impulse channel leaking Loose or damaged fuel hose
Impulse channel blocked Impulse channel blocked
Loose cover on carburettor pump Loose cover on carburettor
side pump side
Faulty pump diaphragm Faulty pump diaphragm
Leaking air intake hose (rubber) Leaking air intake hose (rubber)
Loose carburettor mounting bolts Loose carburettor mounting
Needle valve set too low bolts
Metering system damaged Needle valve set too low
Metering system incorrectly Metering system incorrectly
assembled assembled
Leaking control diaphragm/cover Needle valve assembly sticking
plate Faulty diffuser jets
Needle valve assembly sticking Blocked silencer
Blocked silencer
Engine stalls Adjust L screw
Low power Adjust H screw when throttle Adjust H screw
Blocked fuel tank vent released Faulty pump diaphragm
Blocked fuel filter Needle valve set too high
Impulse channel leaking Needle valve assembly sticking
Impulse channel blocked Faulty diffuser jets
Loose cover on carburettor pump
side Over rich Adjust L screw
Faulty pump diaphragm acceleration Adjust H screw
Blocked air filter Blocked air filter
Needle valve assembly sticking Faulty pump diaphragm
Leak in metering system (air or fuel) Faulty diffuser jets
Metering system incorrectly
assembled
Loose diaphragm rivet
Hole in diaphragm Troubleshooting methods
plate In addition to the faults described in the above
table, trouble shooting can be carried out on
Will not Blocked fuel tank vent specific components or sub-systems of the
“four-stroke” Blocked fuel filter chainsaw. The various procedures are
Fuel line blocked described in the relevant sections, as follows:
Loose or damaged fuel hose
Impulse channel leaking • Checking the operation of
Impulse channel blocked the chain brake Page 13
Loose cover on carburettor pump
side • Measuring the resistance of
Faulty pump diaphragm the stop plate Page 15
Leaking air intake hose (rubber)
Loose carburettor mounting bolts • Pressure testing the carburettor Page 32
Needle valve set too low
Leak in metering system (air or fuel) • Pressure testing the decompression
Metering unit incorrectly valve Page 41
assembled
Loose diaphragm rivet • Pressure testing the cylinder Page 43
Hole in diaphragm
plate
English – 11

Repair instructions
Chain brake – dismantling 3
1 WARNING!
Make sure the spring does not fly
out and cause injury. Wear eye
protection.
Disengage the brake by pushing the kickback Remove the screws and carefully remove the cover
guard backwards. Unscrew the guide bar bolts and from the chain brake spring.
remove the clutch cover, chain and guide bar.
4
2
Place one hand over the brake spring and insert a

small screwdriver between the rear end of the
spring and the clutch cover. Carefully prise the
spring upwards to release it and slide it onto the
Grip the clutch cover carefully in a vice. Release screwdriver shaft. Release the locking washer from
the brake spring by using the kickback guard from the elbow joint and lift it off.
the saw as a tool. Engage it with the brake mecha-
nism and turn anticlockwise to activate the brake. Cleaning and inspection
• Clean and inspect all parts carefully. If there are
any cracks or other defects replace the damaged
parts with new ones. Always use original parts.
• Measure the thickness of the chain brake band.
It must be no less than 0.6 mm at any point.
• Lubricate the elbow joint with grease.
min 0,6 mm
12 – English

Repair instructions
Chain brake – reassembly 4

1
Bolt the elbow joint to the brake band and tighten

to a torque of 1–1.5 Nm.
Tension the brake spring by using the kickback
Locate the elbow joint and connected brake band
guard from the saw as a tool. Engage it with the
in their recesses in the clutch cover. Lubricate the
brake mechanism and turn clockwise to release
recess for the spring with grease.
the brake.
2
5
WARNING! Turn the chain tensioner anticlockwise as far as it
Make sure the spring does not fly will go.
out and cause injury. Wear eye
protection. Refit:
• guide bar
• chain
• clutch cover
NOTE!
After completing the repair the chain
brake must be tested as described below.
Operating test:
The engine must not be running during the test.
Grip the clutch cover in a vice. Compress the Guide bar length Height
spring with special tool 502 50 67-01 and push it
down with your thumb. 38cm/15" 50 cm/20"
3 • Hold the chainsaw over a firm surface. The

height of the guide bar above the surface is
given in the table above.
• Let go of the front handle and let the chainsaw
fall towards the surface.
• When the guide bar hits the surface the chain
brake must engage.
Fit the cover over the chain brake spring, tightening

the screws to a torque of 1–1.5 Nm.
English – 13

Repair instructions
Silencer – removal Silencer – refitting

1
WARNING! If the saw is equipped with a spark arrestor mesh
Do not touch the silencer until it this should be fitted first.
has cooled down, otherwise you
may burn yourself. 2
Refit
1 • cooling plate
• gasket
• silencer, tighten bolts to a torque of 12–14 Nm
• silencer support, tighten bolts to a torque of 8–
10 Nm
• bark rest, tighten bolts to a torque of 8–10 Nm
• cylinder cover
3
Run the saw for at least 1 minute, then retighten
the silencer bolts to 8–10 Nm.
Chain catcher – replacement

Remove the cylinder cover, silencer support, If the chain catcher is worn it must be replaced with
silencer, gasket and cooling plate. a new one.
In order to remove the silencer support you must
first remove the top screw from the bark rest and 1
partially undo the bottom screw. Release the brake by pushing the kickback guard
backwards. Undo the guide bar bolts and remove
2 the clutch cover, chain and guide bar.
If the saw is fitted with a spark arrestor mesh this
must also be removed. 2

Clean and inspect all parts carefully. If there are
parts with new ones.
The spark arrestor mesh is best cleaned with a
wire brush. If the mesh is damaged it must be
replaced.
If the mesh is blocked the saw will overheat and
this will cause damage to cylinder and piston.
Never use the saw with a silencer that is in poor
condition. Always use original parts. Remove the chain catcher and replace it with a
new one, tightening the bolts to 4–5 Nm. Check
that the vibration damping spring locates correctly
against the crankcase when you bolt the new chain
catcher in position.
3
Turn the chain tensioner anticlockwise as far as it
will go.
Refit:
• guide bar
• chain
• clutch cover
14 – English

Repair instructions
Stop switch – removal 5

1
Remove the cylinder cover.
Carefully prise the stop switch’s upper mounting off

the air filter holder while lifting the switch to release
it from the lower mounting.
Release the clip and remove the air filter. Discon-
nect both leads from the stop plate and stop
switch.
3
Stop switch – resistance measurement

Remove the cylinder cover and starter assembly.
Clean the mating surfaces and check the resist-
ance as follows:
Remove the stop plate by carefully sliding it over

the lug on the front mounting.
Measure the resistance by connecting a multimeter

to the ignition coil. NOTE! The switch must be in
the “on” position to give the correct reading.
The resistance must not be higher than 0.2 ohm

Carefully prise the carburettor assembly off the left-
when the switch is in the on position.
hand rubber mounting using a small screwdriver.
English – 15

Repair instructions
Stop switch – refitting Choke control – removal

1 1
Remove the cylinder cover, air filter and stop
switch. Disconnect the fuel hose from the carburet-
tor.
NOTE!
Do not use knurled pliers to disconnect or
reconnect the fuel hose. This could dam-
age the hose and lead to leakage or frac-
ture.
2
A
Carefully press the new stop switch into place. C

Check that the switch’s upper mounting clips over B
the air filter holder.
Disconnect the pushrod from the carburettor by first

carefully prising up the spring over the end of the
rod, where it connects to the throttle lever (A). Then
press the throttle lever forwards (B) while pressing
the throttle pushrod backwards (C) and lifting it off
the lever. Withdraw the throttle pushrod from the
tank and lift it upwards without pulling it through the
rubber inlet manifold. Carefully release the carbu-
rettor assembly from the right-hand rubber mount-
ing and lift it upwards.
3
Push the carburettor gently back into the left-hand
rubber mounting.
Compress the clip that holds the choke control to

the carburettor while pulling it out at the same time.
Disconnect the choke control from the air filter
Reconnect the lead to the stop plate and stop holder.
switch.
Refit the air filter and secure it with the clip.
4
Refit the cylinder cover.
16 – English

Repair instructions
Choke control – refitting 3

First reattach the choke control to the air filter, then
press it onto the carburettor so that the clips engage.
Then refit:
• stop switch
• carburettor into its rubber mountings
• throttle pushrod into the fuel tank and connect to
throttle lever. 1
• lift the spring arm over the throttle pushrod
• fuel hose to the carburettor 2
• air filter and cylinder cover
Remove the throttle trigger by first pressing it
towards the clutch side of the saw until it clicks,
Throttle lock, throttle trigger and return then towards the flywheel side until it clicks again.
spring – removal Remove it from the tank and lift out the return
spring.
1
2 Cleaning and inspection
4 1 parts with new ones. Always use original parts.
• Lubricate the throttle lock with oil.
3 • Check that the spring is not broken and has not
lost its tension.
Throttle lock, throttle trigger and return

Remove the throttle lock by pressing it to the right
and pulling upwards at the same time until you spring – refitting
hear a click. Then repeat by pressing it to the left 1
(3) and pulling upwards (4). When both of the lugs
on the lock have cleared the tank pull the lock
backwards.
2
A
Drive out the steel pin using a 2.5 mm/0.1" diam-
eter drift. Push it out from the flywheel side of the
saw.
Refit the return spring to the throttle trigger as

shown. Make sure the spring is correctly positioned
by engaging one end in the slot in the throttle
trigger (A).
Press the coil of the return spring into the handle
and press the short end of the spring (A) into the
recess in the throttle trigger.
English – 17

Repair instructions
2 Hand grip heater on model 357XP/G

and 359/G – removal
No heating or heating only in front hand grip
• Front hand grip – troubleshooting
First insert the rear edge of the throttle trigger into

the tank. Then push/clip the front edge into the two
clips on the tank with the aid of a combination tool,
for example. Drive in the steel pin from the clutch
side. Use a 2.5 mm/0.1" diameter drift.
3
Then press down the return spring while pressing
the throttle lock forwards/upwards into the retaining
clip in the fuel tank until you hear a click. Release
the return spring in the throttle lock, then press the
lock down onto the tank.
4
Remove the three bolts that secure the cover over the
Check the operation of the throttle lock by trying to
front hand grip. Disconnect the leads from the switch
press the throttle trigger without pressing down the
and generator and measure the resistance of the
throttle lock. Also check that the throttle lock and
hand grip heater, which should be 3–4 ohm. Replace
throttle trigger return freely to their original posi-
the front hand grip if the resistance is higher.
tions when released.
2
Reconnect the leads and secure the cover back in
place over the front hand grip.
18 – English

Repair instructions
• Generator – troubleshooting Heater element and rear hand grip –

removal
1
Remove the cylinder cover and cover from the 1
front hand grip. Disconnect the black lead from the Remove the cylinder cover, hand grip cover, hand
generator and connect a multimeter between it and grip and right-hand stop.
a clean area on the cylinder. The multimeter should
show a resistance of 0.9–1.3 ohm. If higher or Then remove:
lower, replace the generator, see ”Replacing the • throttle lock, throttle trigger and return spring,
generator”. see ”Throttle lock, throttle trigger and return
spring - removal”
2
Reconnect the lead and refit the hand grip cover • fuel hose and throttle pushrod from the carburettor
and cylinder cover. Unbolt the rear tank mounting from the crankcase,
i.e. the rear vibration damping spring, and both
• Switch – troubleshooting stops. Lower the tank as far as it will go to allow
access to the heater lead where it is secured to the
1 tank.
Carefully free the switch and frame from the front
hand grip using a screwdriver. Refit:
• fuel tank with both stops (3-4Nm) and the rear
2 vibration damping spring (4-5Nm)
Disconnect the leads from the switch and connect
a multimeter to it. The meter should read over • throttle lock, throttle trigger and return spring,
1000 ohm when the switch is in the “0” position. see ”Throttle lock, throttle trigger and return
The meter should read no higher than 0.1 ohm with spring - removal”.
the switch in the “1” position. Replace the meter if • fuel hose and throttle pushrod to the carburettor
the readings are outside these limits. (check that the hose is not trapped between the
tank and crankcase, measurement 43 mm (1.69
Rear hand grip heater not working inches))
• Rear hand grip heater – troubleshooting • hand grip cover, air filter and cylinder cover
1 Heater element and rear hand grip –

Remove the cylinder cover, air filter and cover from removal
the rear hand grip.
1
2 Screw the heater element into place using the two
Remove the throttle pushrod, see “Carburettor – screws and feed the leads through the rear hand
removal”. grip. Secure the red lead in the clip on the tank and
connect it. Feed the black lead through crankcase
3 and secure/earth it to the base of the carburettor
Remove the bolt from the plate at the base of the using the bolt at the front on the clutch side of the
carburettor to release the lead for the heater saw. Tighten to a torque of 3–4 Nm.
element.
2
4 Refit:
Disconnect the red lead from the heater element • fuel tank with both stops (3-4Nm) and the rear
and connect a multimeter between it and the black vibration damping spring (4-5Nm)
earth lead that is bolted to the bottom of the
carburettor on the clutch side of the saw. The meter • throttle lock, throttle trigger and return spring,
should read 0.7–1.2 ohm. If the reading is higher see ”Throttle lock, throttle trigger and return
replace the heater element. spring - removal”.
• fuel hose and throttle pushrod to the carburettor
(check that the hose is not trapped between the
tank and crankcase, measurement 43 mm (1.69
inches))
• hand grip cover, air filter and cylinder cover
English – 19

Repair instructions
Hand grip heater on model 357XP/G Starter assembly – removal

and 359/G – refitting 1
1
Feed the leads into the rear hand grip and insert
the heater element in the hand grip. Screw in the
two bolts through the right side of the hand grip to
secure the heater.
Press the black lead into the base of the carburet-

tor and connect it with the bolt.
Tighten to a torque of 3–4 Nm. Undo the four bolts that fasten the starter assembly
to the crankcase and lift off the starter assembly.
3
Run the red lead to the front hand grip and connect 2
it.
4
Refit the throttle trigger and throttle lock and check
that they work correctly, see ”Throttle lock, throttle
trigger and return spring - removal”.
Pull out about 30 cm of the cord and fasten it in the

notch in the pulley rim. Release the tension in the
return spring by letting the pulley wind backwards
slowly.
3
Bolt the vibration damping springs that hold the
WARNING!
tank unit back in place and refit the cover over the
If the recoil spring is still under
front hand grip.
tension when the pulley is re-
Tighten to a torque of 4–5 Nm.
moved it can fly out and cause in-
jury. Wear eye protection.
Remove the bolt from the centre of the pulley and

lift off the pulley.
20 – English

Repair instructions
Cleaning and inspection Cleaning and inspection:

Clean the parts and check the following: • Clean and inspect all parts carefully. If there are
any cracks or other defects replace the dam-
• The starter cord.
aged parts with new ones. Lubricate the return
• The teeth on the pulley, lubricate with oil. spring with light oil.
• That the pawls on the flywheel are undamaged,
i.e. that they spring back towards the centre and
move freely.
• Lubricate the return spring with light oil. Tensioning the recoil spring
Replacing a broken or worn starter cord 1
Fasten the starter cord in the notch in the pulley

Before replacing a worn starter cord the tension in the rim and wind the pulley about 2 turns clockwise.
recoil spring must be released. Pull the starter cord out Check that the pulley is free to rotate at least
through the notch in the pulley rim and wind the pulley
another half turn when the starter cord is fully
anti-clockwise to release the tension in the spring.
extended.
2
lift off the pulley.
Replacing a worn recoil spring
3
WARNING!
Make sure the recoil spring does
not fly out and cause injury. Wear
eye protection.
1
lift off the pulley and spring.
2
Remove the broken recoil spring.
Fit a new cord through the hole in the pulley and tie
a knot to secure it. Feed the other end of the cord
through the hole in the starter housing and through
the starter handle, then tie a double knot in the
end. Wind about 3 turns of the starter cord onto the
pulley. Fit the bolt through the centre of the pulley
and tighten to a torque of 2–3 Nm.
English – 21

Repair instructions
3 Ignition module – testing

If there is a fault in the ignition system the ignition
module must be tested before the ignition system
is removed.
Fit a new recoil spring. Lubricate the recoil spring

with light oil.
4
Fit the bolt through the centre of the pulley and
tighten to a torque of 2–3 Nm. Test the ignition module as follows:
Tension the recoil spring, see ”Tensioning the recoil
spring”. • Connect a test spark plug 502 71 13-01 to the
ignition lead and clip the test spark plug onto the
cylinder.
• Turn the engine over using the starter cord.
Starter assembly – refitting • If the test spark plug produces a spark the
ignition module is OK.
1
Ignition module/flywheel – removal

1
Remove the cylinder cover. Disconnect the HT

lead, remove the spark plug and fit piston stop
Position the starter assembly on the crankcase and
502 54 15-01 in its place. Take off the starter
tighten the bolts to a torque of 2.5–3.5 Nm.
assembly, release the leads from the cable guide
and remove it.
22 – English

Repair instructions

• Clean all parts, especially the tapers on the
flywheel and shaft.
• Check that the flywheel is not cracked or dam-
aged in any other way.
Replacing the generator, model 357XP/G

and 359/G
1
Remove the cylinder cover. Disconnect the HT lead,
If replacing the ignition module, disconnect its leads remove the spark plug and fit piston stop 502 54 15-
and unscrew it. The ignition module can be left in 01 in its place. Take off the starter assembly, release
place if you are simply removing the flywheel. the leads from the cable guide and remove it.
Remove the cover from the hand grip.
3
2
Loosen the flywheel nut using a suitable socket and

unscrew it until it is flush with the end of the shaft.
Loosen the flywheel nut using a suitable socket
4
and unscrew it until it is flush with the end of the
shaft.
Position puller 504 90 90-02 over the magnets and
counterweight on the flywheel. Tighten 2–3 turns
and tap the head of the puller with a metal mallet to
release the flywheel. Remove the puller, nut and
washer. Lift off the flywheel.
Position puller 504 90 90-02 over the magnets and

counterweight on the flywheel. Tighten 2–3 turns
and tap the head of the puller with a metal mallet to
release the flywheel. Remove the puller, nut and
washer. Lift off the flywheel.
English – 23

Repair instructions
3 Ignition module and flywheel – refitting

1
Unscrew the two bolts from the generator but leave

the generator in place.
4
Remove the fuel hose and throttle pushrod from
the carburettor.
Unbolt the rear tank mounting from the crankcase,
i.e. the rear vibration damping spring, and both
stops. Lower the tank as far as it will go to allow Place the flywheel on the crankshaft. Turn the
access to the heater lead where it is connected to flywheel so that the key lines up with the keyway in
the tank. the shaft.
Fit the washer and nut on the shaft and tighten to a
5 torque of 25-30 Nm.
Disconnect the generator lead from the hand grip
and unclip it from the tank. Remove the generator 2
and lead.
Generator – refitting
1
Feed the generator lead through the holes in the
crankcase and hand grip. Bolt the generator in
position, tightening the bolts to a torque of 5 Nm.
Clip the lead to the tank.
NOTE! The lead connector must be positioned to
the right of the clip. Connect the lead to the con-
nector on the hand grip and refit the cover.
2
Refit:
• fuel tank with both stops and rear vibration To refit the ignition module proceed as follows:
damping spring
• fuel hose to carburettor, hose length between Turn the flywheel so that the magnets are in line
tank and crankcase: 43 mm (1.69 inches) and with the ignition module. Fit the ignition module with
between crankcase and carburettor: 53 mm the plastic feeler gauge (502 51 34-01) held in
(2.09 inches) position at the same time, without tightening the
bolts. Connect the black earth lead to the front
• throttle pushrod to carburettor screw on the ignition module. Adjust the gap
• flywheel with nut and washer between the ignition module and magnet to 0.3 +/-
0.1 mm. The gap must be measured at either of the
• cable guide, leads and starter assembly two lowest pegs on the ignition module. Tighten the
bolts to 8-10 Nm. Connect the blue lead to the
Remove the piston stop and reconnect the HT lead ignition module.
and cylinder cover.
24 – English

Repair instructions
3 Centrifugal clutch – removal

1
Then refit:
• cable guide and press the leads into position
• HT lead Remove the cylinder cover. Disengage the chain
brake by pushing the kickback guard backwards.
• starter assembly, tighten to a torque of 2.5–3.5 Undo the guide bar bolts and remove the clutch
Nm cover, chain and guide bar.
• cylinder cover
2
Disconnect the HT lead. Remove the spark plug

and fit piston stop 502 54 15-01 in its place.
English – 25

Repair instructions
3 Centrifugal clutch – refitting

1
Unbolt the clutch by turning the nut clockwise using

tool 502 52 22-02.
NOTE!
4
Handle the clutch springs carefully. If they
are opened up too much they could
damage the saw.
Insert the clutch springs in the shoes using circlip

pliers and a screwdriver.
Carefully prise out the clutch springs with a screw-

driver.
Inspection and cleaning

aged parts with new ones. Always use original
parts.
Fit the clutch and tighten anticlockwise as far as it

will go. Then tighten to a torque of at least 20 Nm
using tool 502 52 22-02.
3
Remove the piston stop. Fit the spark plug, tightening
it to a torque of 15 Nm, then connect the HT lead.
Then refit:
• cylinder cover
• Check the thickness of the clutch shoes by using
vernier callipers to measure the diameter of the • guide bar
clutch. If the diameter is less than 65 mm the • chain
clutch assembly must be replaced.
• clutch cover
26 – English

Repair instructions
Oil pump – removal 4

1
Empty and clean the oil tank.
Remove the chain guide plate.
Remove the cylinder cover. Disengage the chain

brake by pushing the kickback guard backwards.
Undo the guide bar bolts and remove the clutch
cover, chain and guide bar. Disconnect the HT
lead. Remove the spark plug and fit piston stop
502 54 15-01 in its place. Unbolt the clutch using
tool 502 52 22-02 and a suitable socket or combi-
nation spanner. Turn the nut clockwise to remove it.
3
D
C
B
A
Unbolt the oil pump from the crankcase.
6
C
Unbolt and remove the clutch drum (A), chain

sprocket (B), needle bearing (C) and pump drive A
wheel (D).
Remove the oil hose and filter (A).
English – 27

Repair instructions
7 4
Remove the pin (B) from the adjuster screw, using
a small drift to press it out.
8
Press in the pump piston (C) so that the adjuster
screw (D) can be removed. Remove the pump
piston.

aged parts with new ones. Always use original
parts.
• Lubricate all moving parts with grease Refit the oil pump, tightening the bolts to a torque
of 3–4 Nm.
5
Oil pump –refitting
1
C
Lubricate the pump piston (C) with grease and fit

the pump piston and washers. Fit the chain guard plate, tightening the bolts to a
torque of 2–3 Nm.
2
Press down the pump piston (C). Fit the adjuster 6
screw and spring so that the pin (B) can be D
pressed into position. C
B
A
3
Reconnect the oil hose and filter (A).
WARNING!
Poor chain lubrication can result
in failure of the chain, which could
cause serious or fatal injury.
Lubricate the needle bearing with grease. Fit the

pump drive wheel (D), needle bearing (C), chain
sprocket (B), if fitted, and clutch drum (A).
28 – English

Repair instructions
7 Carburettor – removal
Fit the clutch and tighten anticlockwise as far as it
will go. Then tighten to a torque of at least 20 Nm 1
using tool 502 52 22-02.
8
Remove the piston stop. Fit the spark plug, tighten-
ing it to a torque of 15 Nm, then connect the HT
lead. Then refit the cylinder cover, guide bar, chain
and clutch cover.
9
Refill the tank with oil. For more information see
the user instructions for this model for the recom-
mended grade of oil.
Adjustable oil pump – adjustment

Remove the cylinder cover and air filter. Disconnect
Use a screwdriver or adjustable spanner to turn the the leads from the stop switch.
adjuster screw on the pump. Turning the screw
clockwise decreases the oil flow and turning it anti- 2
clockwise increases the oil flow.
+ –
1
2
3
Disconnect the throttle pushrod from the carburet-
tor by first carefully prising up the spring over the
end of the rod where it connects to the throttle
Recommended setting: lever. Then press the throttle lever forwards while
13–15" bar Min. setting pressing the throttle pushrod backwards and lifting
15–18" bar Midway setting it off the lever. Withdraw the throttle pushrod from
18–20" bar Max. setting the tank and lift it upwards without pulling it through
the rubber inlet manifold. Carefully release the
carburettor assembly from its rubber mountings.
English – 29

Repair instructions
3 Carburettor – dismantling
NOTE!
Do not use knurled pliers to disconnect or 4
reconnect the fuel hose. This could dam- 5
age the hose and lead to leakage or
fracture.
3
Disconnect the fuel hose from the carburettor.
Remove the rubber inlet manifold, using pliers to
lift it upwards.
4 The item numbers in the diagram refer to the steps

below (1–7).
1
Remove the cover from the metering unit and
carefully remove the metering diaphragm and
gasket.
2
Undo the screw and take out the needle valve,
together with the lever arm, spindle and spring.
3
Remove the cover from the pump unit and carefully
remove the gasket and pump diaphragm.
4
Remove the fuel filter.
Undo and remove the carburettor bolts. Lift off the
carburettor.
5
Remove the high, low and idling jet screws. (HDA
159A high and low jet screws are protected by
plastic caps which can be prised off with a screw-
driver. Only on EPA, see appendix A.)
6
Remove the plug by first drilling a hole in it and
then prising it out with a screwdriver or the like.
7
If necessary remove the throttle and choke valves,
and remove the spindles together with the lever
arms and springs.
30 – English

Repair instructions
Cleaning and inspection 1

If the throttle and choke butterflies and their
Clean all the carburettor components in petrol. Use spindles were removed, these must be refitted.
an airline to dry off the petrol from all components. Lubricate the spindle bearings with light oil.
Blow through all the channels in the carburettor
body and check that they are not blocked. 2
Insert the plug in the hole with the convex side
Check that: upwards and expand it by pressing downwards
• The gasket, pump diaphragm and metering with a drift.
diaphragm are undamaged.
3
• There is no play in the throttle and choke valves. Refit the high and low speed jet screws and
springs, plus the idling screw. Fit the plastic caps
over the high and low speed screws.
4
Fit the fuel filter, using the handle of a small screw-
• The needle valve and its lever arm are not worn. driver.
• The fuel filter is undamaged.
5
• The tips of the high and low speed jet screws
Fit the pump diaphragm, gasket and cover to the
are not damaged.
pump unit.
• The air intake duct is not cracked.
6
Carburettor – reassembly
NOTE!
Cleanliness is very important when reas-
sembling the carburettor. Tiny particles of
dirt can cause operating problems.
Fit the needle valve with lever arm, spindle and

1 spring and tighten the screw.
Use a rule to check that the lever arm is level with
the cover face. If necessary, the lever arm can be
2 bent slightly.
6 7
Fit the metering diaphragm with its gasket and refit
the cover to the metering unit.
8
Carry out pressure testing.
4
5
The item numbers in the diagram refer to the steps

below (1–8).
English – 31

Repair instructions
Carburettor – pressure testing Carburettor – refitting

Pressure testing should be carried out with the
carburettor fully assembled. Testing should always NOTE!
be carried out after the carburettor has been
Cleanliness is very important when reas-
repaired, but can also be performed for trouble-
sembling the carburettor. Tiny particles of
shooting before dismantling.
dirt can cause operating problems.
Carry out the test as follows:
1
• Screw in the high and low speed jet screws and
back them off one turn.
• Connect pressure tester 502 50 38-01 to the
carburettor fuel inlet.
Align the inlet manifold with the cut-out in the

carburettor flange and make sure the inlet manifold
is correctly seated. It is especially important to
ensure that the impulse tube is correctly seated in
the impulse channel on the cylinder. In order to
check this the cylinder must be removed, see
“Piston and cylinder – removal and fitting”.
• Lower the carburettor into a beaker of water.
Fit the support ring in the inlet manifold.
• Pump up the pressure to 50 kPa (0.5 bar) and
clamp the pump tube. 2
• There should be no leakage. If leakage occurs,
refer to the table below.
Leakage Fault lies in
Diffuser jets Needle valve

In impulse tube Pump diaphragm
Ventilation hole above
metering unit Control diaphragm
Fit stop plate 502 54 17-01 between the carburet-

tor flange and the insulating plate.
32 – English

Repair instructions
3 6
Fit the carburettor. Screw in the carburettor bolts Connect the leads to the stop switch.
directly from behind, without lifting the carburettor
assembly. Tighten to a torque of 1–1.5 Nm. It is 7
important to hold the carburettor flange while
tightening the bolts to prevent the inlet manifold
from moving.
Then refit:
Push the rear carburettor mounting into its rubber • cooling plate
bushing using a small screwdriver. Remove stop
• gasket
plate 502 54 17-01.
• silencer, tighten bolts to a torque of 12–14 Nm
5
• silencer support, tighten bolts to a torque of 8–
10 Nm
• HT lead
• air filter
• cylinder cover
8
After pressure testing, re-tighten the silencer bolts
to a torque of 8–10 Nm.
Connect the fuel hose to the carburettor. Refit the

throttle pushrod at the same time as the rubber
inlet manifold, press in the throttle pushrod so that
it engages in the carburettor and fit the spring.
English – 33

Repair instructions
Air intake system – removal 4

The air intake system comprises:
• inlet manifold
• insulating plate with clip
• carburettor flange
• impulse hose
• support ring
1
Remove:
Unscrew the four cylinder bolts. Lift up the cylinder
• cylinder cover
so that the intake system insulating plate is free of
• air filter the crankcase.
• carburettor
5
• HT lead
Free the insulating plate from the cylinder by

releasing the clamp using pliers. Remove the
complete air intake system.
Unbolt the vibration damping spring between the 6

cylinder and hand grip. Remove:
3 • support ring
• carburettor flange from the inlet manifold
• insulating plate

NOTE! When replacing the impulse hose it must
not be lubricated with oil or grease.
NOTE!
When you replace the impulse hose do
Unscrew and remove the bolts from the silencer not lubricate it with grease or oil.
support.
34 – English

Repair instructions
Air intake system – refitting 3

1
Refit the carburettor. Screw in the carburettor bolts

directly from behind without lifting the carburettor
assembly, tightening to a torque of 1–1.5 Nm. It is
important to hold the carburettor flange securely
when tightening the bolts to prevent the inlet
manifold from moving.
First fit the inlet manifold onto the cylinder. Then fit
the insulating plate and secure it to the cylinder 4
with the clamp. Check carefully that the impulse
tube is correctly seated in the impulse channel. Fit
the carburettor flange to the inlet manifold.
Push down the rear carburettor mounting into the

rubber bushings using a small screwdriver. Re-
move tool 502 54 17-01.
5
Refit:
• cylinder, see ”Piston and cylinder - refitting”
Position tool 502 54 17-01 between the carburettor • silencer support, tighten bolts to a torque of 8–
flange and the insulating plate. 10 Nm
• air filter
• HT lead
• cylinder cover
6
After the test run retighten the silencer bolts to a
torque of 8–10 Nm
English – 35

Repair instructions
Carburettor – adjustment Basic settings and running in

For instructions on adjusting the EPA carburettor During testing at the factory the carburettor is
see appendix A. adjusted to the basic factory settings.
The factory settings are H = 1 turn and L = 1 turn.
Adjusting the carburettor involves adjusting the
engine to the local conditions e.g. climate, altitude, To ensure that engine components receive
fuel and type of two-stroke oil. adequate lubrication (running in) the carburet-
tor should be set to a somewhat richer fuel
The carburettor is equipped with three adjustment mixture for the chainsaw’s first 3-4 running
options. hours. This is done by adjusting the maximum
speed to 6-700 rpm less than the recommended
L = Low speed jet maximum speed.
H = High speed jet
T = Idling adjustment screw If it is not possible to check the maximum speed
with a tachometer then the H jet should not be set
to a weaker mixture than the basic factory setting.
The recommended maximum speed must not

be exceeded.
NOTE!
If the chain turns at idling speed, the T
screw should be turned anti-clockwise
until the chain stops.
Fine adjustment
Once the chainsaw is “run in” the carburettor
should be readjusted. First adjust the L jet screw,
then the idling screw T and finally the H jet screw.
The L and H jets adjust the fuel flow to match the
airflow that the throttle valve opening allows.
The recommended engine speeds are as follows:
Turning them clockwise makes the fuel/air mixture
weaker (less fuel in relation to the amount of air)
Model Max revs Idle revs
and turning them anti-clockwise makes the fuel/air
mixture richer. A weak mixture increases the 357XP/G 14 000 rpm 2 700 rpm
engine speed and a rich mixture decreases the 359/G 13 500 rpm 2 700 rpm
engine speed. Basic requirements
The T screw controls the throttle position when • Before making any adjustments the air filter
idling. Turning the T screw clockwise gives faster should be clean and the cylinder cover should
idling; turning it anti-clockwise lowers idling speed. be in place. If the carburettor is adjusted with a
dirty air filter, the mixture will be too weak next
time the air filter is cleaned. This can cause
WARNING! serious engine damage.
The guide bar, chain and clutch
• Carefully screw in the L and H jets fully, then
cover must be fitted before the
back them off 1 turn. The carburettor now has
saw is started, otherwise the
the settings H = 1 and L = 1.
clutch may fly off and cause injury.
• Start the chainsaw and allow it to warm up for 10
minutes.
• Place the saw on a flat surface so that the guide
bar is pointing away from you and the guide bar
and chain are not touching the surface.
Low speed jet L

• Find the highest idling speed by slowly screwing
the L screw in and then out again.
• When the highest speed has been found, screw
out the L screw 1/8 - 1/4 turn.
36 – English

Repair instructions
Fine adjustment of idling speed T Fuel tank – removal

• The idling speed is adjusted using the screw
marked T. WARNING!
The fuel used in chainsaws is
• If adjustment is necessary, screw in the idling harmful if inhaled, may cause
screw T until the chain starts to turn. Then screw skin irritation and is highly flam-
it out until the chain stops moving. mable.
• The idling speed is correctly set when the
engine runs smoothly in all positions and there 1
is a clear margin to the speed at which the chain Empty the fuel tank.
starts to move.
2
Remove the following:
High speed jet H
• cylinder cover
• The high speed jet H influences the saw power
output and engine speed. If the H jet is set too • air filter
weak the saw will over-rev, which could cause
• clutch cover
engine damage.
• chain and guide bar
• Run the saw at full throttle for about 10 seconds.
H=1. • starter assembly
• Then screw out the H screw 1/4 turn. H=1 1/4. • cable guide
• Run the saw again at full throttle for about 10
seconds and listen to the difference in the engine 3
note. Repeat this procedure again with the H Disconnect the fuel hose from the carburettor.
screw screwed out another 1/4 turn. H=1 1/2.
• You have now run the saw at settings H ± 0, H = 4
+1/4 and H = +1/2 from the factory setting. At full
throttle the engine will sound different at each
A
setting.
• The H screw is correctly adjusted when the saw
“burbles” a little at full throttle without any load.
C
• If there is a lot of smoke from the silencer and
B
the saw does not run smoothly then the setting
is too rich.
• Screw in the H screw to the setting that sounds
right.
NOTE!
For optimum adjustment, a tachometer
should be used. The recommended
maximum speed should not be exceeded. Disconnect the pushrod from the carburettor by
first carefully prising up the spring over the end of
Carburettor – correct adjustment the rod, where it connects to the throttle lever (A).
Then press the throttle lever forwards (B) while
• When the carburettor is correctly adjusted the
pressing the throttle pushrod backwards (C) and
saw should accelerate without hesitation and the
lifting it off the lever. Withdraw the throttle pushrod
engine will burble a little at full throttle without
from the tank and lift it upwards without pulling it
any load.
through the rubber inlet manifold.
• The chain must not turn when idling.
• If the L screw is set too weak this can make the
saw difficult to start and cause poor acceleration.
• If the H screw is set too weak the saw will
produce less power, poor acceleration and there
is a risk of engine damage.
• If either the L or H screws are set too rich it will
cause acceleration problems or too low working
speed.
English – 37

Repair instructions

Carefully check that:
• there are no leaks from the fuel tank
• there are no leaks from the tank filler cap
• the fuel hose is undamaged and free from wear
• the fuel filter is not clogged
• the tank vent is not blocked or leaking
• the vibration damping springs and stops are not
damaged
Replacing the fuel filter

NOTE!
reconnect the fuel hose. This could
damage the hose and lead to leakage or
fracture.
1
First remove the old fuel filter from the tank unit
using special tool 502 50 83-01.
2
Pull the fuel hose out of the tank and pull off the
filter.
Unscrew the two stops and three vibration damp-
ing springs from the sides of the saw. 3
Fit the new fuel filter and feed the fuel hose back
6
into position.
Replacing the fuel hose
NOTE!
reconnect the fuel hose. This could
damage the hose.
1
Before replacing the fuel hose, measure the length
of hose between the crankcase and carburettor
and between the tank and crankcase. The correct
Disconnect and remove the fuel hose from the hose length between the tank and crankcase is 43
crankcase. mm (1.69 inches). The correct hose length be-
tween the crankcase and carburettor is 53 mm
(2.09 inches).
2
Remove the fuel hose from the fuel tank using tool
502 50 83-01. Trim off 5 mm (0.20 inches) from the
mitred end of the hose. Fit the fuel filter and
reinsert the hose in the tank.
38 – English

Repair instructions
Tank vent – testing 3

1
Fit the throttle pushrod in the tank and connect it to

Connect pressure gauge 502 50 38-01 to the fuel
the carburettor. Refit the spring.
hose. Pump the pressure up to 50 kPa (0.5 bar).
The pressure should drop to 20 kPa (0.2 bar)
4
within 60 seconds.
Use gauge 502 50 37-01 to measure vacuum.

Readings should be as follows: the vacuum
should increase from 30 to 15 within 30 seconds. Connect the fuel hose to the carburettor. Check that
If readings are outside this range the vyon plugs the hose is not twisted and is not too long so that it
must be replaced. gets trapped between the crankcase and tank. The
correct hose length between the tank and crankcase
Fuel tank – refitting is 43 mm (1.69 inches). The correct hose length
between the crankcase and carburettor is 53 mm
1 (2.09 inches) excluding the mitred section.
Insert the fuel hose into the carburettor chamber.
Refit the fuel tank. 5
Connect the fuel hose to the carburettor.
2
6
Then refit:
• cable guide
• starter assembly (2.5–3 Nm)
• chain and guide bar
• clutch cover
• air filter
• cylinder cover
Bolt the front vibration damping spring into posi-
tion, followed by both stops and the remaining two
vibration damping springs. Tighten to a torque of
2–3 Nm. Check that both vibration damping
springs and the stops are correctly seated on the
crankcase. Incorrect fitting may result in higher
vibration levels.
English – 39

Repair instructions
Piston and cylinder – removal 5

1
Remove:
• cylinder cover
• carburettor, see ”Carburettor - removal”
• silencer
• spark plug.
Remove the circlips from the ends of the gudgeon

pin and press it out. Then lift off the piston.
Unbolt the vibration damping spring from the hand

grip.
Remove the bearing from the little end of the

connecting rod.
Undo the four cylinder bolts and lift the cylinder off
carefully.
If replacing the cylinder:
4
Unscrew the decompression valve. Remove the air
Cover the opening in the crankcase.
intake system, see ”Air intake system - removal”.
40 – English

Repair instructions
Cleaning and inspection 2

Pump up the pressure to 80 kPa (0.8 bar).
Clean all the components, scraping off all traces of
old gasket and carbon from the following places: 3
• Piston crown Wait 30 seconds.
• Top of the cylinder bore
4
• Cylinder exhaust port The pressure should not be less than 60 kPa
(0.6 bar).
• Decompression valve channel
• Cylinder base and/or crankcase
Piston and cylinder – refitting
Check the following:
1
• The surface coating of the cylinder is not worn
through, especially in the upper part of the
cylinder.
• The cylinder is free from score marks and areas
of wear.
• The piston is free from score marks. Small
scratches can be polished out with fine emery
paper.
• The piston ring is not burnt into its groove.
Lubricate the little end bearing with two-stroke oil

and insert it in the connecting rod.
• Measure piston ring wear. This should not

exceed 1 mm. Use the piston to push down the
piston ring.
• The needle roller bearing is undamaged.
• The inlet manifold is undamaged.
• Pressure test the decompression valve.
• Also refer to Jonsered’s Analysis guide for piston
failures, art. no. 108 07 01-01.
Decompression valve – pressure

testing
1
Fit the piston with the arrow pointing towards the
exhaust port. Push in the gudgeon pin and fit the
circlips. If replacing the cylinder, fit the decompres-
sion valve, tightening to a torque of 12–14 Nm.
Connect tool 502 50 38-01 to the decompression

valve.
English – 41

Repair instructions
3 6
Fit the inlet manifold 503 86 63-01 to the cylinder.

Check that the impulse tube is correctly seated in
the impulse channel.
NOTE!
It is very important that there are no leaks
in the inlet system, otherwise the engine
Fit a new cylinder base gasket. Compress the
may seize.
piston ring with tool 502 50 70-01 and lower the
cylinder over it carefully.
4
7
3
2
Press the insulating plate 503 86 62-01 onto the
cylinder. Check that the impulse tube connected to
the insulating plate is seated correctly in the inlet Fit the cylinder bolts, tightening them in diagonal
manifold and lock the clamp over the manifold. pairs to a torque of 8–10 Nm.
5 8
Lubricate the piston ring and piston with two-stroke Pressure test the cylinder.
oil.
9
Refit:
• spark plug, tighten to a torque of 15 Nm
• carburettor, see ”Carburettor - refitting”.
• silencer, tighten to a torque of 8–10 Nm
• cylinder cover
NOTE!
If a new piston or cylinder has been fitted
the saw must be run for the first 3–4
hours with carburettor adjusted to the
factory settings.
42 – English

Repair instructions
Cylinder – pressure testing Crankcase and crankshaft –

dismantling
1
Remove the following:
• guide bar and chain
• clutch cover
• cylinder cover
• starter assembly, see ”Starter assembly -
removal”
• ignition system, see ”Ignition module/flywheel -
removal”
• generator, see ”Replacing the generator”
• centrifugal clutch, see ”Centrifugal clutch -
removal”
• oil pump, see ”Oil pump - removal”
• Loosen the carburettor bolts so that the carbu- • bark rest
rettor can be moved back about 4 mm. Insert • chain tensioner
cover plate 502 54 11-02 between the carburet-
tor and the carburettor flange. Tighten the • throttle pushrod
carburettor bolts to a torque of 1–1.5 Nm. • carburettor, see ”Carburettor - removal”
• Loosen the silencer bolts so that the silencer • carburettor base
can be moved back about 4 mm. Insert cover
plate 502 54 11-02 between the silencer and the • silencer, see ”Silencer - removal”
exhaust flange on the cylinder flange. Tighten • piston and cylinder, see ”Piston and cylinder -
the silencer bolts to a torque of 8–10 Nm. removal”
• Unscrew and remove the spark plug. Screw in • fuel tank, see ”Fuel tank - removal”
pressure test nipple 503 84 40-02. Connect tool
502 50 38-01 to the nipple. The decompression NOTE!
valve must be closed. For instructions on testing
the decompression valve see ”Decompression Take care to prevent dirt or foreign parti-
valve - pressure testing”. cles getting into the bearings.
• Pump up the pressure to 80 kPa (0.8 bar). 2
• Wait 30 seconds.
• The pressure should not be less than 60 kPa
(0.6 bar).
• Remove the cover plates from the silencer and
carburettor, tighten the bolts to the specified
torque. Remove the pressure test nipple 503 84
40-02 and refit the spark plug.
WARNING!
After pressure testing the cylin-
der, check that the inlet manifold
is seated correctly, otherwise the
saw may be damaged.
Unscrew the 6 bolts that hold the crankcase
together.
English – 43

Repair instructions
3 Crankshaft bearings – replacement

WARNING! If the crankshaft bearings are to be replaced they
Take care not to burn yourself must be pulled off the crankshaft using puller 504
when the crankcase is hot. Wear 90 90-02. The new bearings must be shrunk-fit into
protective gloves. the crankcase using a hot air gun. Heat the crank-
case half to around 130°C and fit the new bearing.
The new bearings must be shrunk-fit into the

crankcase using a hot air gun.
Split the crankcase by heating the flywheel side of Cleaning and inspection
the crankcase with a hot air gun and tapping gently
on the crankshaft. Avoid heating the frame bearing Clean and inspect all parts carefully.
and crankshaft.
Sealing ring – replacement
4 Remove the sealing ring from the crankcase using
a small screwdriver.
NOTE!
Take care to avoid damaging the crank-
case.
Free the crankshaft by heating the clutch side of

the crankcase.
To fit the sealing ring use the sleeve that is sup-

plied with 502 50 30-16.
The end with the half moon is used for the sealing
ring on the clutch side, which must be fitted flush
with the surface of the crankcase.
The other end of the sleeve is used to fit the
sealing ring on the flywheel side and ensures that
the sleeve is fitted at the correct depth, 1.8 mm.
Lubricate the sealing rings with oil.
44 – English

Repair instructions
Crankcase and crankshaft – 4

reassembly
1
357 only:
Fit the cups on the crankshaft.
NOTE!
It is important that the cups are fitted over Place the flywheel side of the crankcase over the
the counterweights. crankshaft and pull the two crankcase halves
together using assembly tools 502 70 84-01 and
2 502 50 30-16.
Fit and tighten the six crankcase bolts to a torque

of 8–10 Nm. Check that the crankshaft rotates
freely.
Hold the clutch side of the crankcase in a vice. Pull
the crankshaft into its bearing using assembly tools
502 50 30-16.
Check that the guide pins are in place. Fit a new

gasket to the mating surface of the clutch side of
the crankcase.
English – 45

Repair instructions
Refit the following parts: Repairing damaged threads

• bark rest, 8-10 Nm A repair kit, 503 27 33-01, is available for repairing
• oil pump, 3-4 Nm, see ”Oil pump - refitting” damaged threads.
• chain tensioner First drill out the hole using:

• centrifugal clutch, min 20 Nm, see ”Centrifugal 6.1 mm drill bit for magnesium crankcase
clutch - refitting”
Then screw in the thread insert using a suitable
• fuel tank, see ”Fuel tank - refitting” bolt and spanner.
• piston and cylinder, see ”Piston and cylinder -
refitting”
• generator, see ”Replacing the generator”
• carburettor base, 3-4 Nm
• carburettor, 1-1,5 Nm, see ”Carburettor - refit-
ting”
• throttle pushrod
• silencer, 12-14 Nm, see ”Silencer - refitting”
Guide bar bolts – replacement
• ignition system, 8-10 Nm, see ”Ignition module
and flywheel - refitting 1
Drain the oil tank.
• starter assembly, 2,5-3,5 Nm, see ”Starter
assembly - refitting
2
• cylinder cover Knock through the old guide bar bolt so that it falls
into the oil tank.
• clutch cover
• guide bar and chain 3
Remove the bolt from the oil tank.
NOTE!
If a new crankshaft has been fitted the 4
saw must be run in for 3-4 hours with the
carburettor adjusted to the factory
settings.
Fasten a steel wire to the thread of the new bolt,

feed the steel wire into the oil tank and out through
the bolt hole in the crankcase.
5
Pull the steel wire until the bolt comes out through
its hole.
6
Pull through the bolt with its nut. Place a spacer
between the nut and crankcase.
7
Check that the square shoulder of the bolt is
correctly seated in the recess in the crankcase.
8
Refill with chain oil.
46 – English

Appendix A
Carburettor – EPA models 6. Adjust the H-needle to a top speed of "B" rpm.
Model 357XP B= 14 500
Basic adjustment for EPA carburettors
After replacing the carburettor or high speed and/or Model 359 B= 13 000
low speed needle on an EPA (The US Environmen-
tal Protection Agency) certified product a basic 7. Check that the H-cap is still adjusted to its
adjustment must be carried out as described below richest setting. (Turned counterclockwise to
in order to meet the EPA-requirements. This to stop). NOTE! The H-needle must not rotate!
achieve as low emissions as possible. This instruc-
tion is made for USA only. 8. Gently knock the H-cap into position. Use a 5
On EPA carburettors both the H and L-needles are mm/0.2 inch mandrel (for ex. the locking pin for
fitted with caps to prevent the chain saw operator the bevel gear ref.no. 502 02 61-03).
from changing the adjustment above EPA stand- This is a basic carburettor adjustment. Further fine
ard. The caps can be removed to achieve richer or adjustments, within the limits the caps allow, may
leaner adjustments. To set the needles correctly an be necessary to achieve optimum performance.
adjustment sleeve is fitted over the caps to lock See the Operator´s manual.
them in maximum allowed setting. When correctly
set the caps must be fixed on the needles. The Replacement of the L-needle
adjustment sleeve then can be removed.
1. Take off the cap from the L-needle e.g. a pair of
NOTE! Before making any adjustments the cutting pliers and unscrew the needle.
following must be done. 2. Screw the new L-needle to the bottom and then
turn it counterclockwise 1 1/2 turns.
• Mount, for this model, approved bar & chain
combination for a 16" bar (see Technical data in 3. Press a new L-cap on the L-needle to the first
the Operator's manual). stop, which means that the cap is not fixed to
the needle, it should rotate independently.
• The chain should not be tensioned more than
that it remains ~0.2 inches to the bar. 4. Adjust the L-cap to the richest position (turned
counterclockwise to stop) without turning the
• Mount a new air filter. needle.
5. Let the engine run at ~"C" rpm app. 1 minute
Replacement of the H-needle or complete carbu- until warm and then let it run on idle.
rettor
Model 357XP C= 13 500
1. Screw the new H-needle to the bottom and turn Model 359 C= 12 500
it counterclockwise "3/4" turns. 6. Adjust the idle speed to 2 700 rpm.
2. Check that: 7. Adjust the L-needle until the highest possible
• The H-cap is adjusted to its richest setting. idling speed is achieved and then run the L-
(Turned counterclockwise to stop.) needle 1/2 turn counterclockwise. Use a narrow
blade screw-driver w. ref.no. 531 00 48-63 and
• The cap is not fixed to the needle, it should insert through the hole in the cap (max. blade
rotate independently. Adjust the L-cap to a width 2 mm/0.08 inch).
center position ( 1/4 turn counterclockwise =
minimum, 1/4 turn clockwise = maximum). NOTE! If the chain rotates, turn the idling
speed screw (T) counterclockwise until the
3. Start the engine. If necessary, adjust the idling chain stops.
speed with the T-screw until the chain stops.
8. Check that the L-cap is still adjusted to its
4. Adjust the H-needle to give a top speed of "A" richest position. (Turned counterclockwise to
rpm. stop). NOTE! The L-needle must not rotate!
Model 357XP A= 13 500
9. Gently knock the L-cap into position. Use a 5
Model 359 A= 12 500 mm/0.2 inch mandrel (for ex. the locking pin for
Use a narrow blade screwdriver (Ref.no. 531 00 the bevel gear ref.no. 502 02 61-03).
48-63) and insert it through the hole in the cap. This is a basic carburettor adjustment. Further fine
(max. blade width 2 mm/0.08 inch). adjustments, within the limits the caps allow, may
5. Let the engine run at 13 000 rpm ~1 minute, be necessary to achieve optimum performance.
until warm. See the Operator´s manual.
English – 47

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357XP/359

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Work through the manual and follow the instruc-

Then follow all the “Cleaning and inspection”

Working from the back of the manual, follow all the

Each of the sections covering removal/dismantling

Construction and function

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After repair, the chain brake must be checked as

Inspect the chain catcher and replace it if it is

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Item Description Used for Order no.

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Displacement Cylinder bore Stroke Max power/speed

357XP: 57 / 3,5 46,0 / 1,81 34,0 / 1,34 3,2 / 9 600

Spark plug gap Ignition system Air gap Carburettor type

357XP: 0,5 / 0,02 FHP ET 0,3 / 0,012 Walbro HDA 174

Effective cutting length Chain speed at Chain pitch Drive link

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Idling speed Engagement speed Max. speed Spark plug

357XP: 2 700 3 800 14 000 Bosch RCJ 7Y, NGK BPMR 7A

357XP: 0,68 / 1,44 5 - 15 0,38 / 0,80 Yes

357XP: 5,5 / 12,1 6,3 / 13,9 -

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• The metering unit (A) which contains the jets

• The pump unit (C) pumps fuel from the tank to

In idling mode the throttle valve (F) is closed. Air is

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In part throttle mode the throttle valve (F) is par-

In full throttle mode both valves are open and fuel

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Starting Idling (low rpm) (cont.)

Difficulty starting Adjust L screw Idles when L Worn needle valve

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High rpm Acceleration and retardation

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Place one hand over the brake spring and insert a

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Chain brake – reassembly 4

Bolt the elbow joint to the brake band and tighten

3 • Hold the chainsaw over a firm surface. The

Fit the cover over the chain brake spring, tightening

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Silencer – removal Silencer – refitting

Chain catcher – replacement

Cleaning and inspection

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Stop switch – removal 5

Carefully prise the stop switch’s upper mounting off

Stop switch – resistance measurement

Remove the stop plate by carefully sliding it over

Measure the resistance by connecting a multimeter

The resistance must not be higher than 0.2 ohm

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Stop switch – refitting Choke control – removal

Carefully press the new stop switch into place. C