Sunset - November 2016

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© AS America, inc. 2016.

Looks beautiful.
Works beautifully.
Whether you’re getting ready for work or getting ready
Townsend Faucet
for fun, your bathroom faucet needs to perform. Which is why
every faucet designed by American Standard has the quality
you’ve come to expect and the style you’re proud to show off.
Discover more at americanstandard.com
November
EXPERIENCE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
the WEST

52
CALL OF THE WILD
Once a hippie hobby,
foraging is now main-
stream. Our guide to
getting dirty includes
adventures in nettle
harvesting, Doug fir
perfume, and sea gin.
By Irene Edwards, Jess
Chamberlain & Josh Sens

64
THE PLANT PIONEER
A new book by Sunset
garden editor Johanna
Silver celebrates Ruth
Bancroft, the West’s
dry-gardening hero.

70
TOAST OF THE TOWN
Food-world stars
Ayesha Curry and
Amanda Haas share
tips and recipes for
throwing a memorable,
stress-free holiday
party. By Margo True

The Ruth Bancroft Garden


is the perfect antidote to
overly irrigated landscapes. In Bancroft’s arid 3-acre
THE PLANT PIONEER, p. 64 garden, contrasting
textural pairings—like
a strappy Dasylirion
wheeleri and fuzzy
Oreocereus celsianus—
create natural interest.

Photograph by MARION BRENNER


EXPERIENCE the WEST
November
8 CONVERSATIONS
THIS MONTH’S
RECIPES

BEST OF THE WEST DRINKS


Brown Liquor Cocktails.........94
Cranberry Tequila Punch .....78
Holiday Smoothies ...............78
APPETIZERS
Brown-Sugar Bacon Bites.....76
Roasted Crudités LC/LS/VG 74
Sweet & Savory
Shrimp & Grits LC/LS .........76
Sweet-Potato Chips with
Crème Fraîche & Caviar ....76
MAINS
Grilled Butterflied
Turkey GF .......................... 83
11 Washington
THIS MONTH’S PICKS
cranberries,
winter pastels, Russian-style
» Celery-Herb Turkey ..........83
» Fennel-Garlic Turkey ........85
tea service, a neighborhood SIDES
gourmet grocer, and more Creamy Chunky Mashed
Potatoes GF/LC/V ............ 86

TRAVEL 81 » Herbed Greek


Yogurt GF/LC/V ............. 89
» Roasted Cauliflower.........89
Crisp-Top Sourdough
HOME & GARDEN
48 What GARDEN CHECKLIST
to do in your garden
in November
Stuffing LC ...........................86
» With Sausage & Greens .86
» Scandinavian Stuffing......86
31 History
IDEA HOUSE 2016
meets cutting-edge
design at Sunset’s newest
Fall Greens & Apple
Salad GF/LC/LS/V ............89
» Fall Greens & Orange .....91
FOOD & DRINK
Idea House in the Clare - » Fall Greens & Pear ...........91
mont Hills, where Berkeley Pure & Simple Cranberry
meets Oakland.
81 agiving
HOLIDAY FOOD Whip up
foolproof feast of Thanks-
classics—with a few
Sauce GF/V ...................... 86
» Cranberry & Blenheim
Apricot GF/V .................. 86
Western twists. » Cranberry Apple GF/V .. 86
Roasted Broccolini ................89
19 stamped
DISCOVER Long Beach is
transforming from graffiti-
commuter town to 94 end Make over your week-
SIP
cocktails with the
» Roasted Broccoli ..............89
» With Almond Parsley
Pesto ..................................89
SoCal’s creative hub. West’s newest and tastiest
craft whiskeys. DESSERTS
Candied-Orange Walnut
25 Luxe
WANDERLUST
tours, astronomy apps,
and devoted sky-watchers 96 Sage IN THE SUNSET KITCHEN
with fruit, a primo
Ice Cream Pie .....................91
Chocolate Cherry Coconut
make it easy to experience apple cider vinegar, stylish Brownies GF/V ...................78
Pumpkin Ice Cream
the northern lights. kitchen aprons, and the Gingersnap Pie LS/V .........91
cookbook of the month Toasted Almond & Chocolate
29 Los
SMACKDOWN
Cabos luxury or the
Toffee Ice Cream Pie ..........91
PANTRY
bohemian vibe of Mexico’s
Riviera Nayarit? You be
the judge.
104 ATGStores.com!
Win an oak
UP NEXT
dining-set giveaway from Hazelnut Mint Romesco .......74
Lime & Basil Chimichurri.......75
Make-Ahead White Wine
Gravy LC/LS ..................... 85
Smoky Cauliflower
Hummus VG ........................74
On our cover
Holiday party tips page 70 Foolproof Thanksgiving page 81 Idea House 2016 RECIPE GUIDE
page 31 SoCal’s coolest beach town page 19 Oregon forest feast page 52 GF: Gluten-free; LC: Low calorie;
LS: Low sodium; V: Vegetarian;
VG: Vegan
Amanda Haas and Ayesha Curry at the Sunset Idea House 2016 in California’s Claremont Hills. Our full guide to nutrition and
Photograph by Thomas J. Story, prop styling by Bianca Sotelo, food styling by Karen Shinto, ward- good cooking: sunset.com/
robe by Laura Hollabaugh for Aubri Balk, hair by Jessica Mayeux, and makeup by Ashley Bias. cookingguide.
Curry’s top by Tiny, skirt by Maje, shoes by Thalia Sodi, and earrings by J. Crew; Haas’s top by
Maje, skirt by Maeve, shoes by Zara, and necklace by J. Crew.
ALL
E X C LU S I V E

M E A N S F I N D I N G B E A U T Y A L O N G E V E R Y W A T E R W AY.
Ship is artist rendering, subject to change. ©2016 Crystal Cruises, LLC. Ships’ registry: Malta. Amsterdam

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to surprise, enrich and fascinate. And complimentary butler
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TIME INC.
PRESIDENT & CEO Rich Battista CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER Alan Murray CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Jennifer L. Wong

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nathan Lump EDITORIAL OPERATIONS/FINANCE DIRECTOR Clare McHugh

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Irene Edwards

Pick the CREATIVE DIRECTOR


MANAGING EDITOR
Maili Holiman
Erika Ehmsen

Treat that Starts


DEPUTY EDITOR Miranda Crowell PHOTO DIRECTOR Yvonne Stender
SUNSET.COM MANAGING EDITOR Gina Marie Goff
ART DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR Roger Gurbani
Megan McCrea
TRAVEL ASSISTANT EDITOR DESIGNER Jordan Coupe

with Meat,
GARDEN GARDEN EDITOR Johanna Silver PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTO EDITORS Susan B. Smith (Garden, Home, Food),
HOME SENIOR EDITOR Chantal Lamers Jeffery Cross (Travel)
FOOD FOOD EDITOR Margo True STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Thomas J. Story

Not Wheat
SENIOR EDITOR Elaine Johnson PHOTO PRODUCTION EDITOR E. Spencer Toy
EDITORIAL SERVICES MANAGER Angela Brassinga PRODUCTION BOOK PRODUCTION MANAGER
WINE WINE EDITOR Sara Schneider Linda M. Bouchard
COPY COPY CHIEF Trina Enriquez DIGITAL SENIOR EDITORJessica Mordo

When your dog comes


RESEARCH CHIEF Michelle Lau ASSOCIATE EDITORCarol Shih
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Nena Farrell, Marie Salcido FELLOW Nikolas Wright
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jess Chamberlain, SUNSET PUBLISHING CORPORATION

beggin’, reach for Catherine Dash (Market), Jennifer Marnach (Los Angeles), BUSINESS OFFICE Jessica Yan (Finance Director), Hollie Hawkins
Nino Padova, Jenna Scatena
BLUE Sizzlers. They’re
the only bacon-style dog TIME INC.
EVP S Jeff Bairstow, Leslie Dukker Doty,
ADVERTISING SALES
BRAND SALES DIRECTOR Amy Olmsted
REVENUE & INNOVATION
VP, CREATIVE DIRECTOR

treats that start with real Mark Ford, Greg Giangrande, Lauren Ezrol Klein, ATLANTA (404) 888-1940 Cara Deoul Perl
Steve Marcopoto, Erik Moreno BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR VP, MARKETING AD SOLUTIONS
VP, HUMAN RESOURCES Stacie Sullivan Beth Cairns Steve Cambron

pork, not ground wheat ASSOCIATE GENERAL COUNSEL


Maya Menendez
INTEGRATED ACCOUNT MANAGERS
Holly Belk, Jamie Hawk
VP, FINANCE Lori Dente
VP, RESEARCH & INSIGHTS Caryn Klein

like that other treat. TIME INC. SALES & MARKETING


PRESIDENT & CEO Mark Ellis
REGIONAL BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR
Bill Syrett
VP, DIGITAL AD OPERATIONS Nancy Mynio
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, RESEARCH & INSIGHTS
AD DIRECTOR, STATE MAGAZINES Hoke Carter Lee Anne Baer
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& MULTICULTURAL Ron King Brett Richards
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MAKE-UP, POSITIONING
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ASSISTANT GM Nina Iorg
MARKETING MANAGER, HOMES Bharath Medehal
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BRAND MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS Robert Duffy, Amanda Hanes,
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SVP, BRAND MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS VP Ann Marie Doherty
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A Natural Alternative to the Real Thing Elizabeth Marsh
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Compare your treats at SUNSET PUBLISHING CORPORATION • 55 HARRISON ST., STE. 200, OAKLAND, CA 94607 • SUNSET.COM

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You love him like family,
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you want to feed him with the same care as family.


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home4theholidays.org Love them like family. Feed them like family.®
CONVERSATIONS

FOOD + MEMORY
I CAN’T REMEMBER ever having a single bad meal
New
& Now
in Portland. This occurs to me as I’m drinking a
first-rate saison made with rose petals from
Burnside Brewing Co. and grazing on elk sausage
at Feast, the city’s annual food festival. Amid the
four-day barrage of culinary temptations, two
things stood out: the smoky, charcoal-fired paella
of squid and Spanish cuttlefish by Barcelona-born
chef José Chesa that I sampled at his namesake
restaurant; and Vitaly Paley’s lushly evocative Cozi
paean to his Russian heritage in the form of a tea organizer app
service at the new Headwaters (page 14). Help your household get on
the same page with Cozi,
Childhood food memories have a powerful ef- a free mobile and Web app

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM: E. SPENCER TOY, BROOKE BASS, MICHAEL KRAUS, ROMULO YANES (FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN)
fect. It’s almost impossible to separate the ingre- from Time Inc. that includes
dients of a dish from the emotion that it conjures a shared calendar, family
meal planner, grocery-list
up—and that is exactly how it should be. In fact, generator, and more. The
that’s what inspired the Thanksgiving menu of app is preloaded with this is-
classics with a spin in this issue (page 81), creat- sue’s Thanksgiving recipes
(page 81): sunset.com/cozi.
ed by our stellar food team. This being Sunset,
“classic” can mean a grilled turkey—trust me, I
sampled every single version coming out of the
Holiday gift
Test Kitchen and I may never roast again—or an
guides
ice cream pie redolent with fall flavors. Our hope
Whether you plan to shop
is that this menu informs a lifetime of nostalgic for or make your gifts this
food traditions and recipes to resurrect for many year, our editors have ideas
Thanksgivings to come. for the jet-setters, backyard
grill masters, green thumbs,
As I write this on my return from the Portland and homemade-treat lovers
food frenzy, my family and I are still camped out in our kitchen-less construc- on your list: sunset.com/gifts.
tion site (unless you count the toaster oven and mini fridge in one corner as a
kitchen). My dream of hosting Thanksgiving will have to wait another year. But from top: chef
vitaly paley
when our remodel is finally over and done with, I’m going to throw a house- at this year’s
warming party for the ages, complete with Ayesha Curry’s shrimp and grits feast in port-
land; festival
(page 76) and Amanda Haas’s irresistible sour-cherry brownies (page 78). This comestibles
year’s holiday dinner might be a little more off-the-cuff, but I already know
what I’m giving thanks for: my move back West and all the memories, food and
otherwise, I now get to create in this wonderful place I call home.

IRENE EDWARDS, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | @irene_sunset | [email protected]


Kitchen
inspiration
This month, our Food Hacks
video series tackles Thanks-
giving leftovers. Too many
Write to us, tweet us, or tag us on your Instagram; we promise
JOIN THE SUNSET COMMUNITY we read each and every one of your comments.
mashed potatoes mean
cheesy waffles for breakfast;
extra turkey equals empana-
facebook.com/ @sunsetmag @SunsetMag pinterest.com/ das. Get these ideas and
SunsetMagazine on Instagram on Twitter SunsetMag more: sunset.com/TGvideos.

8 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


FA D E PR O O F / E A S Y C A R E / B L E AC H C L E A N A B L E

SU N B R E L L A .CO M L EG E N DA R Y PE R F O R M A N C E FA B R I C S ™
There’s living. And there’s loving life. We’re here to help
with the second one. Our intriguing blends of herbs and
botanicals support energy, stamina, focus, and overall
well-being. Cup after cup, day after day, life is good.
®,©2015-2016 East West Tea Company, LLC

®
BEST OF THE

WEST
W H AT W E’ R E T R AC K I N G T H I S M O N T H

DRINK
BEST There are a few things Jessika Tantisook and Jared Oakes (above), co-owners of the Long Beach,
BATCH Washington, cranberry farm Starvation Alley, tell their customers. First, cranberries don’t grow in
water. (They grow in fields, or bogs, which are recessed in the ground and flooded for pest control
and ease of harvest.) Second, true cranberry juice isn’t sweet. Instead, the 100 percent organic,
cold-pressed juice the couple makes is “fruity and tart,” explains Tantisook. “It’s not single-serve. Add

OF CHOICE
an ounce or two to sparkling water, a smoothie, a salad dressing, or a batch of cocktails.” The in-
demand product—which comes with a hefty price tag, $10 for a 16-oz. bottle—is now a cult ingredient
on menus across Seattle and Portland. Product collaborations with Northwest brands abound, from
Pok Pok’s Som Cranberry Drinking Vinegar to North Jetty Brewing’s Starvation Alley Weissbier. We
know which cranberry sauce ($7) we’re trying this season. starvationalley.com. —Jess Chamberlain

Photograph by R I C H C ROW D E R SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 11


THE CASE FOR COOL-SEASON PASTELS
Come winter, there’s nothing cozier than spending the day curled in bed with a good
BEST book. Los Angeles textile house Matteo makes that prospect infinitely more appealing
PALETTE
with its new line of bedding in beautifully subtle colors such as Honey, Blush, Plum,
and Frost. All products are made in L.A. and garment-dyed to order, giving them an
ultrasoft feel; at $274 for the queen size, the Vintage Linen duvet cover could certainly qualify as
a preholiday present to yourself. matteohome.com.

BEST
DIY

BRING NATURE
INDOORS
A fall wreath of foraged
manzanita leaves. A lava
rock bonsai. A plant
chandelier! San Francisco
photographer and stylist
Caitlin Atkinson shares
her exquisite botanical
creations in Plant Craft: 30
Projects that Add Natural
Style to Your Home (Timber
Press; $25). Fresh and
achievable, the ideas come
at the perfect time in the
change of seasons. What
better way to add life to
interiors throughout
the colder months ahead?

BEST
CARRYALL
THE BACKPACK FOR
OUR FALL ADVENTURES
Alexa Osbourn and Ed and Maria Ruzic—the design trio behind Boulder-based ac-
cessories line Sherpani—all came from outside the West but didn’t take long to grasp
its vibe. “Everyone here is active,” Osbourn observes, “although no one wants to sac-
WREATH: CAITLIN ATKINSON

rifice style.” Their sleek yet sporty bags, crafted from materials such as liquid nylon
and hand-painted canvas, speak to that sensibility. The star of the fall collection: the
stylish, functional Indie ($118), a wool-and-leather backpack with a padded laptop
sleeve, internal pockets, and a wallet that’s just the right size for a transit card … or
a compass. “Take it to work, on a hike, then to a bar for drinks,” says Osbourn. Our
thoughts exactly. sherpani.com. —Megan McCrea

12 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


THERE IS JUST AS MUCH MAGIC
OFF THE MOUNTAIN.

Can one town really have it all? Two world-class resorts — Park City Mountain
and Deer Valley — award-winning dining and a vibrant nightlife, all within
one historic mountain town? Filled with laid-back charm that makes you
feel at home? Yes. All that. Only in Park City, Utah. Discover the wonder
at VisitParkCity.com.
BEST
REMAKE

CAMERA READY
It’s not often you get to rethink an
American archetype. So when
Casey Keasler of Casework was
asked to work on the Pioneer-
town Motel, 12 miles from Joshua
Tree National Park, the designer
immersed herself in the property’s
cinematic character. “Cowboy
boots, denim shirts, and worn
leather” is how the Portland-
based Keasler describes the mo-
tel’s persona—an apt description
for tiny Pioneertown itself, found-
ed in 1946 by Hollywood actors
such as Gene Autry and Roy
Rogers as a location for westerns.
The 20-room lodge is now a sim-
ple yet comfortable retreat with
Southwestern rugs and industrial
light fixtures. “It has everything
you need and none of what you
don’t,” says Keasler. Still standing

COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM: CHARLEZ MALASAÑA; DAVID WALTER BANKS/THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX; JOHN VALLS (3)
down the street: old-fashioned
film façades, including a trading
post and saloon. From $145;
pioneertown-motel.com.

Afternoon treats
with a Russian twist
Portland’s Vitaly Paley is a master of culinary technique. But for his latest ven-
BEST
TEA
ture, the French-trained chef-restaurateur summons up something much closer
SERVICE to his soul: his Russian heritage and the food traditions he learned from his child-
hood in rural Belarus. Set in the storied Heathman Hotel, Paley’s latest venture—
the seafood-centric restaurant Headwaters—features a tea service that celebrates the ceremo-
ny and flavors of his homeland. The idea was spurred in part by the success of his pop-up
dinner series, DaNet, which regularly sells out at the Portland Penny Diner. “When I cook and
taste this food, it has an emotional connection for me. I travel back in time and I’m standing
next to my grandmother in the kitchen again,” says Paley of the menu, which features mush-
room piroshki; open-face sandwiches called butterbrodi; and tea from a samovar served with
homemade jams as sweeteners. The star of the show: his grandmother’s steopka, or sour-
cream cake, a holiday staple for the young Paley and his family. “I remember eating this cake,”
says the chef, “as far back as I remember eating.” Tea service for two $76; headwaterspdx.com.

14 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


See all 14 new super premium flavors at Tillamook.com
husband-and-
wife team doug
washington
and freya prowe

baia pasta,
from $7

nana joes
granola, $9

outside the
market
inna jam,
bee raw $12
honey, $20

little belgians
speculoos
cookies, $10

PORTRAIT: DAVID FENTON; FOOD SHOTS: JEFFERY CROSS


BEST

OUR FAVORITE NEW


WESTERN
PANTRY

NEIGHBORHOOD MARKET other brother


olive oil, $20

Marble-topped bistro tables, Mediterranean plantings, and a brick-walled


courtyard with string lights and sheepskin throws make Oakland’s Grand
Fare Market the kind of place you could linger in—from breakfast to after-
dinner drinks. Co-owners Doug Washington and his wife, Freya Prowe, en-
visioned a neighborhood gourmet grocer where locally made pantry goods,
ready-to-go meals, and a cafe menu would happily coincide. A pint-size blue
flower stall manned by Freya nestles next to a coffee bar bearing snicker- bottle
new
doodle-Nutella sandwich cookies. And while savory items—including a orleans
classic meat loaf and potatoes roasted in rotisserie pan drippings—lean to- iced
coffee,
ward comfort food, the cafe also keeps Marin Kombucha on tap. Here, Doug $5
and Freya share their selections for a Western pantry. grandfaremarket.com.

16 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


BECAUSE SOMEDAY

I’ll play in the mud


all day.

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The trademarks and/or service marks appearing above are the property of FMR LLC and may be registered.
Fidelity Brokerage Services LLC, Member NYSE, SIPC. © 2016 FMR LLC. All rights reserved. 748124.2.1
Travel

D I S C OV E R

THE NEXT WAVE


A voyage through Long Beach’s graffiti-
stamped neighborhoods reveals a shift in
the water: Locals are transforming
it from a commuter town into
SoCal’s hottest creative hub.
By Amy Preiser

Clockwise from
top left: Beach-
wood Blendery;
6th and Detroit;
Long Beach’s
Bluff Park; 6th
and Detroit own-
er Michelle Qazi.

Photographs by L I S A CORSON SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 19


Travel

T he RMS Queen Mary, a grand ocean liner


that catered to the upper crust in the
1930s, has been a mainstay of Long
Beach—and one of its most popular at-
tractions—since it moored here nearly 50 years ago. So
when the estimable Queen invites the alt-comedy troupe
Upright Citizens Brigade aboard for a salon series, it’s
brews at beachwood blendery

evident that something is stirring in the Pacific. Other


signs: new firepits that warm arriving passengers at
Long Beach International Airport and an uncontained
enthusiasm from surfers who say that this Los Angeles
County town may reclaim its moniker as the “Waikiki of
the West Coast” if the breakwater comes down. More
staggering are a spate of new shops and restaurants;
over the past two years, 900 have opened, according to
the city. They’re setting up in pastel bungalows, beneath
palm trees, and in shipping containers, a plentiful sta-
ple in this port city. In a town of less than a half-million,
this qualifies as a sea change. In other words, if you
haven’t visited Long Beach in five years, you may not
recognize it.
Thank L.A.’s notorious traffic. Those long commutes
on the 405 can wear on a soul. So rather than continue to
export their creative juices to L.A., residents built new
jobs close to home. Why leave the (relatively) affordable
sunny coast wedged between Orange County and Los impromptu seasonal pies at pie bar
Angeles when it has good schools, Cliff May houses, a
thriving arts district, and a music scene whose most
prominent mouthpieces are Snoop Dogg and Sublime?
The indie-spirited have always lived in Long Beach,
says furniture designer Eric Trine. They just worked
elsewhere. Trine’s sought-after geometric pieces are
created in his studio here, then sold in stores like West
Elm. One of the many entrepreneurs benefiting from
the hospitable small-business environment put in place
by the current administration, Trine, too, will be open-
ing a store (scheduled for late 2016).
The vibe is a little like Portland pre-Portlandia, with
just as much bike cred (the city is ranked by the Alliance
for Biking & Walking as the third-friendliest to cyclists
in the nation) but with more sunshine, a beach, and a
few hundred people making waves. Even the Queen
Mary is catching the fever, with a $15 million makeover
scheduled to be complete in 2017.
Here’s where to see the new Long Beach in action. restauration’s curb appeal

20 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


boho-chic wear at prism (below);
recreational coffee’s lab (right)

The neighborhoods
Downtown Hernandez is the as the Multi-Barrel
Home to museums, brain behind Recre- Experiment, infused
a world-class aquar- ational Coffee, an with Rainier cherries
ium, and the Queen avant-garde take on and a rich, oaky
Mary, the area also caffeinated drinks flavor. beachwood
features a popular such as the Iced bbq.com/blendery.
string of restaurants Basilfruit, which is
along Pine Street iced coffee sweet-
that are packed with ened by a grapefruit, East Village
locals. basil, and sugar This arts district
Laurie Gray reduction that brings hosts a monthly
opened her Kick- out the bean’s bright, event where galleries
starter-funded bak- fruity notes. On the open their doors to
ery this year after other hand, its evil the public. A cluster
ditching her execu- cousin, the Hoppy of shops is scattered
tive banking gig. Iced Coffee, com- on First Street.
What was once a bines cascade hops The first time a
Quiznos in formerly with iced coffee to shopper journeyed
corporate downtown create a remarkably from L.A. just to visit
is now The Pie Bar, IPA-like and pleas- Michelle Qazi’s new
where Gray whisks antly bitter punch of curated home-decor
coconut cream from caffeine. recreational shop, Qazi was
scratch, crimps coffee.com. shocked; now, it’s
dough, and bakes Though true lam- commonplace for
all varieties of pies. bic can be made Angelenos to reverse
You can sample only in Belgium, commute to 6th and
four tastes when Gabriel Gordon Detroit. Prices are
you order a “pie has built quite the kept low thanks to
flight”; shot glasses homage to this style Qazi’s obsessive
are filled with popu- of beer at Beach- garage- and estate-
lar specialties, from wood Blendery. sale-hunting skills.
Key lime to bourbon With his partner, But it’s how the
pecan. Most flavors brewmaster Ryan pieces come together
also come in mini Fields, they’ve that makes you want
mason jars for forged a barrel to linger. A neutral
handheld pie on room designed to color palette is
the fly. Gray’s Little mimic Belgium’s livened up by the
Chef oven from temperature and fairy tale–like case
her childhood is on humidity. Their goods, in addition
display—a nod to beers are served to ceramic owls, mac-
how long she’s in small pours and ramé hangers, and
been dreaming of bottled in a rustic rare tropical plants
baking. thepiebar yet colorful space. potted in wicker
longbeach.com. Try the lip-puckering baskets. 6thand
Therapist Bobby sour blondes as well detroit.com.

SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 21


booths are perfect
for cheerfully hung-
over brunchers
pounding Rose Park
coffee, and families
flock in for early-bird
dinners of crunchy
parmesan churros.
festive flair at wild child Aside from the
eclectic wall decor
(vintage tree saws),
furnishings are
industrial chic, with
aluminum chairs and
handmade wooden
tables; hanging lights
cast a flattering glow
for the after-dinner
crowd digging into
the seasonal, inter-
national wine list.
restaurationlb.com.

Belmont Heights
brunchers swarm restauration for dishes A family-oriented
like wood-fired asparagus salad. cranny with yards
of palm trees and
succulents, this
Alamitos Beach Rose Park South neighborhood has
A predominantly gay Craftsman bunga- a few small commer-
neighborhood with lows add Old World cial districts with
rainbow pedestrian charm to this indie shops.
crosswalks, it also enclave. When Dayna
has a collection of Pro skateboarder Mance first opened
vintage stores known turned restaurateur Prism Boutique,
as Retro Row. Salman Agah’s first the former Anthro-
Jolie Dionisio’s Pizzanista outpost pologie manager
Wild Child Party outside of L.A. is lured the area’s
may excel at uncon- housed in a historic beachy crowd to
ventional decor bungalow. The Meat a then-sleepy corner
for children’s fetes, Jesus is the crowning of Belmont Heights.
like cactus birthday glory, with crisped Now a nucleus of
candles and marble- pepperoni, bacon, businesses has
ized paper plates. and anise-seeded opened. Together,
But adults can find sausage topping they collaborate
plenty of inspiration a sourdough crust. on block party–
here too, with a “Long Beach was style events with
balloon bar, piñata befitting for Pizza- taco trucks, tempo-
making, and calli- nista since it has rary tattoo stations,
graphy workshops. a great music, art, and local makers.
Dionisio, who styles and skate scene,” The shop is stocked
celebrity events in says co-owner Price with relaxed
L.A., says Long Beach Latimer. “It’s also Coachella-inspired
was her only consid- an affordable and weekend wear,
eration for setting diverse community such as rock tees
up shop. After all, that feels untouched and cropped jeans.
it’s a place that by time.” pizza Moroccan rugs,
embraces fun and nista.com. geodes-turned-
innovation—even An expansive jewelry displays,
a store devoted to outdoor area is the and custom rope
quirky party pieces true heart of Res- and driftwood art-
would be sure to find tauration: brightly work add a dash
its audience. wild patterned pillows of wanderlust. prism
childparty.com. propped in wooden salman agah gives pizza skate cred at pizzanista. boutique.com.

22 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


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Travel

WA N D E R LUS T

UP ALL NIGHT
Make this the winter you see the northern lights. It’s never been
easier to experience the aurora borealis, thanks to luxe tours, astronomy apps,
and devoted sky-watchers. By Erika Ehmsen
PHUNG CHUNG CHYANG

Aurora Village,
in Yellowknife,
Canada

SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 25


What are the Newman says she got the best aurora
northern view of her life: “Huge, vast walls of col-
lights? ors washed down—not just green, not just
white, but blue and purple and aquama-
Think of the sun as rine too. As if the sky were melting in
a ray gun: It blasts
Earth’s magnetic Technicolor.”
field with gusts of INFO Tours available out of Anchorage and
solar wind. These Fairbanks. From Anchorage: 5-day/4-night
supercharged
particles enter our tour from $1,397/person, including in-state
atmosphere at the transportation, lodging, and most meals;
North and South salmonberrytours.com.
Poles, then bounce
off oxygen and
nitrogen particles, SPOKANE & BEYOND
creating ethereal DIY aurora
flares of light. In Freezing temperatures, group tours, and
the Northern
Hemisphere, we advance planning not your scene? You
Priest Lake, in call this phenome- can make your aurora trip as spontane-
northern Idaho non the aurora ous as the lights themselves. Nearly every
borealis—the
northern lights. month, the aurora dips south to visit the
Lower 48, so keep an eye on the sky—via
YELLOWKNIFE, CANADA aurora-monitoring websites like gi.alaska.
The Imax view edu and swpc.nooa.gov, the fansite softserve
In the 1930s, prospectors flooded Canada’s far-flung Northwest Ter- news.com, and apps such as AuroraTonight. When the stars align (a
ritories in search of gold. These days, travelers trek to this slice of the sighting is predicted, along with cloud- and moon-free night skies),
Great North for the luminescent greens—and yellows and pinks and catch a flight to Spokane, rent a car, and road-trip through Eastern
reds—of the aurora, which dances in these cold, clear skies nearly Washington and northern Idaho and Montana. “Spokane is a won-
every night. For front-row seats, head to Aurora Village, a resort 30 derful gateway to exploring the night sky, with ready access to loca-
minutes north of Yellowknife, where guides say that, in a three-night tions that are free of light pollution,” says aurora-obsessed nature
visit, stargazers stand a 95 percent chance of seeing the “show.” The photographer Craig Goodwin (craiggoodwinphoto.com). “The most
adventure begins at 9:30 p.m., when a shuttle whisks you from your common colors are green and yellow. But when the aurora is strong,
in-town lodging to a clutch of glowing tipis (your mercifully warm red and purple will appear high in the sky—they’re not visible to the
base for the night’s viewing) strung along the shore of ultra-deep human eye, but easily captured by a camera with a long exposure.”
Great Slave Lake. At a guide’s signal, you can step outside, wander INFO Even last-minute flights to Spokane typically cost less than $250
the lakefront, and stare up at the animated heavens. round-trip from many cities in the West. Get Goodwin’s aurora-hunting
INFO Yellowknife is a 2-hour flight from Calgary. Aurora Village: From road-trip route and photo tips: sunset.com/northernlights.
$490 U.S./person/3 nights, including lodging, local transportation, and
winter gear; Nov 20–Apr 14; auroravillage.com.

ANCHORAGE TO FAIRBANKS
Alaska’s greatest hits
Ride a dogsled? Check. Sleep beneath Denali? Check. See the aurora FROM TOP: CRAIG GOODWIN, ANCHORAGE DAILY NEWS

borealis? Check. Think of a trip with Salmon Berry Tours as your


Alaska bucket list on steroids. After a guide picks you up at the
Anchorage airport, you’ll hit the ground running, traveling by dog-
sled for part of the trip north to Talkeetna. In this log-cabin town
near Denali, you’ll scan the sky for the swirling lights with the Star
Lady, a local aurora expert. Then, to improve your odds with the
cosmos, you’ll spend several nights north of Fairbanks; there, ac-
cording to the local visitors bureau, three consecutive late nights
give you an 80 percent chance of seeing the aurora. And staying up Sled dogs near
past bedtime isn’t that bad, when one of those midnights is spent Anchorage

steaming in the Chena Hot Springs, where Alaska native Leigh

26 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

COAST TO COAST
Home Inspiration
THE SUNSET BAY AREA IDEA HOUSE • THE COASTAL LIVING HAMPTONS SHOWHOUSE

The 2016 Sunset Idea House nestled in the hills of the Bay Area showcases our
partners in a modern, tech savvy home. Sister publication, Coastal Living, featured
those same partners in a colorful, coastal home in The Hamptons.

BERKELEY HILLS, CA BRIDGEHAMPTON, NY

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a new standard in aesthetics, giving disposals are for those who enjoy the very best
you a more realistic wood appearance kitchen appliances. With our patented
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products. With its rustic texture, rich coupled with We Come To You® In-Home
colors and superior durability, the Limited Warranty and Quick Lock® Sink Mount
Vintage Collection will bring your dream for easy installation and replacement, the
outdoor living space to life. azek.com Evolution Series is the ultimate in performance
and convenience. insinkerator.com

BELGARD
When you combine your own personal MAUI JIM PHOTO CREDIT: TOM STORY AND LINDSEY STONE

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on an amazing new perspective. From Maui Jim proprietary PolarizedPlus2 lens
outdoor kitchens, patios, living areas, technology featuring a high contrast coating
drive or pool area, Belgard can help make which eliminates glare and provides 100%
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visit MauiJim.com.

See how these products were incorporated into each project by visiting
sunset.com/ideahouse and coastalliving.com/showhouse.
Travel

R E S O R T-H O T E L S M AC K D OW N

PICK YOUR MEXICO PARADISE


Rocky-desert-meets-the-beach on the tip of Baja in Los Cabos? Or the wild-yet-intimate jungle-
scape of the Riviera Nayarit, north of Puerto Vallarta? You can’t lose: Both areas provide
myriad new reasons to go, proving there’s more to paradise than lying on the sand. Below, four
elements of a great vacation destination, from pools to experiences, where these resorts truly
Los Cabos shine. By Christine Ciarmello, Erika Ehmsen, Trina Enriquez, and Jenna Scatena Riviera Nayarit

ULTIMATE DESTINATION POOL


The Esperanza raises the bar Perch yourself on the hammock-
on luxe with an adults-only in- strewn terrace at Sayulita’s
finity pool that tumbles to the Haramara Retreat. The salt-
Sea of Cortez. Rent a private water pool sprouts from the
cabana and sip a basil-cilantro- jungle, shaping a scene so
lime cocktail made to order by enchanting, you might feel
the resort’s margarita butlers. compelled to skip your flight
From $550 U.S. ; esperanza. home. From $164 U.S. ; hara
aubergeresorts.com. mararetreat.com.

CRAFTIEST COCKTAILS
The Cape’s mixologist-in-resi- Tequila purists flock to Cielo
dence helps decipher mezcal’s Rojo, a boutique hotel in San
smoky allure at guided tastings, Francisco, for its small-batch
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DEA/M. SANTINI, COREY KOPISCHKE(2), JOE FLETCHER,

and fashions award-winning blanco, reposado, and añejo,


cocktails with Baja shrubs and aged in oak barrels. Try the
his line of Mexican bitters. Sip house margarita, made with
the refreshing 1940 on the the reposado, hibiscus tea,
seaside terrace. From $549 and Mexican sea salt. From
U.S. ; thompsonhotels.com. $139 U.S. ; hotelcielorojo.com.

BEST VIEW-WITH-FOOD
AMEZCUA THOMPSON, JULIETA AMEZCUA

Ambience could be its own Casa Velas’s Picnic in Para-


course at Nido, a sushi restau- dise package hosts guests in
rant inside the new Mar Aden- discreet scenic locations, like
tro hotel. In lieu of the usual the base of a misty waterfall
ocean view, savor elements in the Yelapa forest, with provi-
like moonlight filtering through sions like litchi tarts. From
the structure’s hundreds of $232 U.S., all-inclusive; picnic
thatched hand-bent twigs. $$ (guests only) from $280 U.S.
U.S.; maradentrocabos.com. for two; hotelcasavelas.com.

NEXT-LEVEL RESORT EXPERIENCE


At Pueblo Bonito Pacifica’s Come November, the palm-
Towers, kick-start your own studded beach by Sayulita’s
ceviche by casting a line from Playa Escondida is where to
the sand. Help the chef prepare view migrating humpbacks.
it, then enjoy it served on the The resort also motors guests
private beach. Towers deluxe to the UNESCO-protected
rooms (set to open Dec 22) Marietas Islands for a closer
from $800 U.S., all-inclusive; look at the giants. From $165
pueblobonito.com. U.S.; playa-escondida.com.

SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 29


 
   
Home & Garden
IDEA HOUSE
2016

NEXT-LEVEL
DESIGN
History plays its part inside
Sunset’s latest Idea House,
but the future is calling. Study in
By Chantal
contrasts
Use siding to create
Lamers a two-toned exterior.
jameshardie.com.
PROP STYLING: MICHAEL WALTERS

Photographs by T H O M A S J. S T O RY SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 31


Home & Garden

A
As Sunset’s headquarters were relo-
cating to Oakland late last year, a
group of designers were a few miles
away planning the magazine’s 2016
Idea House. Perched in the Clare-
mont Hills bordering Oakland and
IDEA
HOUSE
2 0 16

Berkeley, the home was conceived


as a tribute to the Bay Area—its ar-
chitecture, its quirky character, its
spirit of innovation. Facilitated by
DFI Properties and Keith Kolker of
Landmark Development, architect
Robert Nebolon created a five-level,
3,600-square-foot cantilevered home
clad in James Hardie siding. To
warm up the modern shell, interior
designer Lauren Geremia and her
team, Emily Ord and Erin O’Brien,
mixed ATGStores.com furnishings
and paint with vintage items and
statement-making pieces by Western
artists. The result is a home that feels
like a retreat—and offers design ideas
around every corner.
FIRST FLOOR SECOND FLOOR THIRD FLOOR FOURTH FLOOR DECK

DRIVEWAY BATH BATH WINE


ENTRY
ART ROOM CELLAR
CRAWL
FLOOR PLAN: MARGARET SLOAN

LAUNDRY PORCH
SPACE
CLOSET BATH
GARAGE KID’S
BEDROOM
DINING MASTER CLOSET
BATH MEDIA GUEST
ROOM LIVING ROOM
ROOM BEDROOM ENTERTAINMENT
ENTRY MASTER DECK
OFFICE BEDROOM DECK
TERRACE DECK DECK
DECK

KITCHEN DECK

32 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


a pencil cactus
adds height
and an organic
element

2 MAKE EVERY
CORNER COUNT
The design team turned an
easy-to-overlook part of
the living room into a read-
ing nook, below. To do the
same at home, pair a small
table with a piece of furni-
ture that can hold its own.
This vintage chair has a
strong shape, but is com-
fortable enough for long
reads. Midcentury Danish
wingback chair,
deangelis.1stdibs.com.

D E S I G N E R S ’ P I C KS

Vintage furniture,
one click away
³ Pamono, pamono.com.

³ Amsterdam Modern,
amsterdammodern.com.

³ Antiques & Modern,


antiquesandmodern.com.

³ Viyet, viyet.com.

³ Lawson-Fenning,
lawsonfenning.com.

mixing raw and dark


woods keeps the room from
feeling formulaic

1 TAKE IN THE VIEWS


Lauren Geremia designed the living room around the vistas, from the furniture arrangement
to the soft golden palette. Crowd Pleaser sofa, $2,100 ; benchmademodern.com. Matunuck
lounge chairs, $4,600; oandgstudio.com. Safavieh Hampton Pillow Top bench, $371; Arteri-
ors Home Jacob cocktail table, $1,650 ; MOTI Michigan glass cabinet, $1,348 ; Interlude
Brighton console, $855 ; Safavieh natural area fiber rug (bottom), from $47; atgstores.com.
Accessories, thefutureperfect.com. Sivas rug, tonykitzgallery.com. Bentley Brown Leaf Ham-
mered Pot table lamps, $80 each; lampsplus.com. Balancing Act C-Print by Tammy Rae Car-
land; jessicasilvermangallery.com. Designers Guild Glenmore linen, osborneandlittle.com.

SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 33


Home & Garden

3 REIMAGINE
THE BACKSPLASH
“We wanted to take risks with the wall treat-
ments in this house,” says Geremia. In the
kitchen, for instance, she applied an Arts and
Crafts wallpaper in place of tile to the wall,
adding an unexpected burst of pattern. The
wallpaper was treated with a Scotchguard-
like coating and is covered with tempered
glass to protect against water damage. The
marble countertop extends to form a back-
splash. Bird & Pomegranate wallpaper by Wil-
liam Morris, $199/roll ; shearsandwindow.com.
Ventura dining table, $1,180; pair of ladder-
back dining chairs, $119; atgstores.com.

WALLPAPER: JEFFERY CROSS (3), HARDWARE: JEFFERY CROSS (5)

34 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


D E S I G N E R S ’ P I C KS

Old-world wallpapers
³ Florence court by Cole & Son,
$196/roll ; mahoneswallpaper
shop.com.

³ Hornbeam, $230/roll;
us.farrow-ball.com.

³ Leaves by Area Environments ,


$15/sq. ft.; coupdetatsf.com.

4 ADD CLASSIC DETAILS


The inset oak cabinetry is a nod to the area’s
early 20th-century Craftsman homes; the or-
ganically shaped brass hardware supplies the
break up
cabinetry oomph. Potato cabinet knobs, from $36 ; rocky
with shelving mountainhardware.com. Wine, J. Lohr; jlohr.
to open com. Torani, torani.com.
up the space.
D E S I G N E R S ’ P I C KS

High-style
hardware
³ Large oval knob, from
$11; rejuvenation.com.

³ Midvale pull, from


$36 ; schoolhouse
electric.com.

³ Fairview crystal knob,


from $18 ; schoolhouse
electric.com.

³ Lew’s Hardware bar


pull collection, from
$7.90; myknobs.com.

SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 35


Home & Garden the dropped ceiling
covered in an
ombre wallpaper
creates a
canopy-like feel

gray french-oak
floors don’t
compete with
wood tones

5 BUILD IN 6 CARVE OUT


D E S I G N E R S ’ P I C KS

Top tiles

THE BEAUTY SOME SPACE ³ Clay tile in Sea


Glass, $28/sq. ft. ;
fireclaytile.com.
In the master bedroom, custom A long narrow bathroom is outfit-
³ Cement tile in Sol-
millwork provides ample storage ted with back-to-back vanities that
and masks exposed columns give its users distinct spaces. The id Barn, $14/sq. ft.;
alongside the bed. Murray plat- trick to getting this right, says cletile.com.
form bed, $240; Wayborn Furni- Nebolon, is offsetting the sinks.
³ Pratt and Larson
ture Benfu armoire, $720; Coyu- Classic Field tile in Natural White,
chi bedding, from $38 ; atgstores. 1x3 and 3x9 from $22 ; heath straight stack R1,
com. Vintage Jens Risom chairs , ceramics.com. Mila wall sconces , from $38/sq. ft.;
deangelis.1stdibs.com. Hawley $205; lampsplus.com. Limestone prattandlarson.com.
side table, $2,475; eggcollec countertops, marblecompany.
tive.com. Vintage rug; tonykitz com. Pop Grande square under-
gallery.com. Brasscloth wallpaper counter bathroom sink , $325 ;
in Pyrite, $32/sq. ft.; calicowall dxv.com. Potato cabinet pulls ,
paper.com. Dhow Sheer drapery, from $36 each ; rockymountain
osborneandlittle.com. hardware.com.

36 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


large-scale
artwork adds
a focal point
in lieu of
a headboard

7 LET ART TAKE THE LEAD D E S I G N E R S ’ P I C KS

Art for everyone


Art played a vital role in every room, adding warmth ³ Saatchi Art, saatchiart.com.
and offbeat character. The designers chose a mix of nature-
³ Crown Point Press , crown
based photography, warm pencil sketches, and oversize
pieces, such as this whitewashed-oak star, from Western point.com.
artists including Meagan Donegan, Jessica Niello-White,
Tammy Rae Carland, Lena Wolff, John Chiara and ³ Paulson Bott Press, paulson
Berkeley-based Vintage European Posters (vepca.com) . bottpress.com.
Converging Star by Lena Wolff ; lenawolff.com.
³ Artsy, artsy.net.

“Art is often our starting point. It brings soul


to a space and can even inspire a color palette.”
— LAU R EN G ER EMIA , G ER EMIA DE S IGN

SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 37


Home & Garden

8 ENCOURAGE SLEEPING IN
A guest room should feel like a getaway for visitors. Geremia gave this one a vacation vibe by layering an
island-style bed frame with a mostly quiet mixture of patterns and textures. Tommy Bahama Island Estate West
Indies bed in Bamboo, $3,949; Coyuchi linens from $38; Interlude Norha side table, $882; Surya jute
natural living area rug, $575; Antique White Linen occasional chair, $1,074; atgstores.com. Santorini Tinos
linen drapery; osborneandlittle.com. Workstead’s Orbit Table Lamp One, $1,350; thefutureperfect.com.
Oushak overlay rug, tonykitzgallery.com. Downbridge lamp, $129; lampsplus.com. Western Window Sys-
tems, westernwindowsystems.com.

9 FOOL THE EYE


By simply applying the tiles
vertically in this small bathroom,
the designers created the illu-
sion of height. Classic Field
tile in Paprika in 1x3 and
3x9, from $30/sq. ft.; heath
ceramics.com.

“Floor-to-ceiling glass doors and windows


allow the views to become part of the decor.”
—ROBERT NEB OL ON, ARC HITE C T

38 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


TimberTech . ®

Beauty That Stands


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durability and performance. Our proprietary capping protects
all four sides of the deck board against rot, weathering, mildew,
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See the complete line of tough TimberTech® decking, railing,
and lighting products at TimberTech.com.
Home & Garden

I N T H E M A S T E R BAT H

This slate repeats from


another bathroom, ty-
ing spaces together.
Custom lighting fixture,
omegalighting.com.

I N T H E K I D S ’ RO O M

Three of these star


pendants hung at dif-
ferent heights create
a constellation effect.
Cuthbert white glass
star pendants, $180
each; lampsplus.com.

IN THE DINING ROOM

Six pendants in a
row equal an instant
chandelier. Cove
Point open frame
mini pendants, $99
each; lampsplus.com.

I N T H E G U E S T RO O M

A sculptural brass
and marble lamp

10 CHOOSE LIGHTS Lamps can sometimes fade into the background, but in this house, Geremia chose
a mix of contemporary and salvaged pieces that command attention. The hanging fix-
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Home & Garden

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—ER IN O’BR IEN , G ER EMIA DE S IG N

11 SOFTEN THE LANDING 12 KID-PROOF SURFACES


Layering rugs sets a casual, slightly bohemian The designers made this media room kid- and
tone and provides extra padding underfoot. red wine–friendly by embracing indoor-
To master the look, O’Brien recommends over- outdoor fabric—using it on the cushions, sofa,
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13 INTEGRATE NATURE
Nebolon wrapped the six decks in glass,
allowing light to “pass into the interiors as
much as possible,” he says. The AZEK deck,
which looks similar to hardwood, reinforces
the indoor-outdoor connection, while large-
scale potted plants bring additional greenery
into view. AZEK Vintage Collection deck
in Dark Hickory, azek.com. Plants, sunset
westerngardencollection.com for retailers.

14 TIER IT UP
Drawing inspiration from an M.C. Escher
sketch, landscape designers Michelle Derviss
and David Feix planted a geometric garden
into the hillside, filling steel planters with suc-
culents, low-water perennials, and palms.
BOTTOM RIGHT: SAXON HOLT

“Foliage in a variety of colors and textures


can bring just as much beauty as flowers.”
— MIC HELLE DERVIS S , DERVIS S DE S IG N

44 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


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Home & Garden

NORTHERN
C A LIF O R NIA
CHECKLIST

“The bit of turf softens


the patio but doesn’t
need a lot of water.”
JOHANNA SILVER,
GARDEN EDITOR

PLANT
For winter cheer, pot up
amaryllis and paperwhite bulbs
to display indoors. Leave the
top third of the bulbs exposed,
set them in a bright location,
and water sparingly until you
see the first green growth. Soil
isn’t necessary—they’ll happily
bloom with their roots in stones—
but good drainage is essential
to prevent rot. GARDEN WE LOVE

Grow your own mesclun by


sowing seeds from a lettuce mix
All-seasons retreat
At this oceanfront house in Long Beach, California, homeowners Megan and Jeff Tagliaferri want-
in moist, rich soil. Harvest when
leaves reach 6 inches. In cold- ed a backyard they could lounge in even when the seaside wind picked up. Working with designer
winter areas, set out lettuce Sarah Robinson (theplantnerd.com), they created an entertaining-ready tiled patio lined with a row
seedlings early in the month for of Podocarpus trees. With warmth coming from the extra-tall stucco fireplace and the heated cast-
one last harvest. stone seating (galanterandjones.com), the space is cozy enough to use year-round, says Megan: “It’s
our little haven.”
In mild-winter areas, plant
asparagus from crowns, the
dried roots of year-old plants. the more familiar C. japonica, Be sure to fertilize indoor or brownish calyx on top. Allow
Unlike many other vegetables, and some have fragrance. orchids, many of which initiate them to ripen indoors. ‘Hachiya’
asparagus will live for more ‘Setsugekka’ is pure white blooms in late fall and winter, fruit, with a pointed bottom,
than 10 years, so consider bed with a yellow center, ‘Apple every two weeks. To encourage should be allowed to ripen until
placement carefully. Don’t Blossom’ has blush pink flowers, flowering, set thermostats so very soft ; ‘Fuyu’, with flat bot-
harvest shoots this spring; give and ‘Yuletide’ is a deep pink. that there is at least a 10° drop toms, can be eaten while firm.
the plants a year to establish. between daytime and nighttime
MAINTAIN temperatures. Warm-season herbs such as
Fill a late-fall garden’s bare spot Reduce the watering fre- basil, mint, shiso, and tarragon
with a blooming Camellia sasan- quency on irrigation systems. If HARVEST won’t last through the winter,
qua. These early-flowering rain is plentiful, no supplemental Pick persimmons when so pick their remaining leaves
shrubs can take more sun than irrigation is needed. fully orange, keeping the green now.

Learn what to plant when with our year-round checklists : sunset.com/checklists.


LAURE JOLIE

48 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET Reported by E L I Z A B E T H JA R D I NA


A D V E RT I S E M E N T

Generation
ENCORE
At 67, competitive cyclist and breast cancer survivor CHERYL CHERRY
is in the best shape of her life. This grandmother recently lost 50 lbs., and is inspiring
others with her strength, determination, and lifelong positivity.

HEALTHY HABITS
WORTH KEEPING

1
THINK POSITIVE AND GIVE
YOUR BODY A BOOST
Optimism can have a valuable impact on
your body. A positive outlook has been
associated with decreases in depression
and stress, and improvements in
cardiovascular and immune health.

2
TRY OTHER WAYS OF EATING TO
SEE WHAT WORKS FOR YOU
How did you decide to get in shape? How do you approach challenges No matter what popular plans may tell
I stayed in shape up through my early 40s, in your life? you, there’s no one-size-fits-all diet that
I look at personal trials as adventures and I works for everyone. It may be helpful to
but at my heaviest, I was 172 lbs. I could
try different approaches to eating like
barely pick up my baby grandson, and I face them head-on. When I was diagnosed veganism, low-carb, or the Mediterranean
knew it was time to get healthy. My son and with triple negative breast cancer, I knew I diet to see what suits your body best.
my husband were so helpful in keeping me needed to be strong, and the best way was to
on track. I told them, “Don’t you dare take stay positive. Now, I’m celebrating my 23rd
no from me! If I say I don’t feel like working year of being cancer-free, and life continues
out, you say, ‘oh yes, you do!’” to get better and better every day.

How have you and your husband What are the biggest successes you’ve
changed your lifestyle?
I started doing nutrition research and
had on your bike?
I’ve won 45 gold and five silver medals in
3
realized we needed to incorporate more the past three years including two medals ENJOY THE GREAT OUTDOORS
fresh vegetables and fewer processed at the 2015 National Senior Games! My AND EXERCISE OUTSIDE
foods. When we eventually decided to go husband and I also use the Charity Miles You may notice some big benefits when
app, and we just became ambassadors. you get fresh air. Exercising outdoors can
vegan, we did it in steps, and slowly
give you more energy and help you get
phased out meat. It’s been an incredible, We’ve each logged 14,000 miles on it, and
your daily dose of vitamin D3. Plus, the
sustainable change for us, and our doctor’s it’s so rewarding to watch the donation park is budget-friendly, so you can save
visits prove it! amounts go up and up. money and get in shape at the same time.
STRETCHING
A PLAN
POSITIVE THINKING
TAKING THE STAIRS
A CHECKUP
WHOLE WHEAT PASTA
MORE CARDIO
FLOSSING
STEP CLASS
MEDITATION
MORE LEAFY GREENS
GETTING MORE H2O
START WITH A SPIN CLASS
A WORKOUT BUDDY
FALLING IN LOVE
DANCING
BREATHING EXERCISES
A NEW LANGUAGE
WEIGHTLIFTING
A GOOD BREAKFAST
A FLU SHOT
Spinning clay exercises your creativity,
as well as your arms. Taking care of your
health doesn’t have to be complicated.
Partner with Humana and we’ll help
create a plan for your health that works
for your life today and for many, many,
many years to come.
CALL 11

OF THE
16

WILD

52 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


Once a hobby for the farmers’-market faithful, foraging has found its
way to the mainstream. It informs what we eat, how we travel, and which products
we rub on our face. Our guide to getting dirty.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: THOMAS J. STORY, MATT MORRIS, THOMAS J. STORY
Gather

01

ANTICA
TERR A
—Oregon—

In the Willamette Valley, one winery sets out to create a foraging trip like no other.
By Irene Edwards

54 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


1.
The Creek
“Would you like a breakfast pastry?” asks Andrew, passing me a
brown paper bag of canelés and a mug of hot black coffee. We’re sit-
ting on a rock in a creek in the middle of a forest early one spring
morning in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. The canelés, still warm,
possess that perfect texture—caramelized and crusty, with a cus-
tardy interior—and the speckled mug in my hand was made by a
master craftsman. It’s only the beginning of my weekend foraging
adventure and already the mood feels slightly enchanted.
Andrew Riechers is assistant winemaker at Antica Terra, a Wil-
lamette Valley cult producer known for its small-lot releases:
sought-after Pinots with names such as Obelin and Botanica, a lush
and silky rosé called Angelicall. Head winemaker Maggie Harrison
dreamed up the two-day journey my husband and I have just
embarked on—a fishing-meets-foraging celebration of Oregon’s
bounty—but she’s out of town for the weekend, so Andrew is our
guide. Over the next 36 hours, I will harvest nettles, haul in sea
bass, and tailgate in the woods while being driven around by An-
drew (plaid shirt, square jaw, film-star scruff) in a black Escalade.
In the past five years, the age-old practice of foraging has morphed
into a white-hot travel trend. You can forage for prickly pear in Ari-
zona, seaweed in coastal California, and salmonberries in Vancou-
ver, B.C.’s Stanley Park. You can sign up for tours via online meetup
or through cooking classes and resorts. What was once viewed by
the masses as a hippie-ish fringe phenomenon is now indisputably
mainstream (you can download urban foraging apps in the App
Store) or even straight-up luxurious (canelés and Escalades, not to
mention the $800/pound harvest unearthed at the Oregon Truffle
Festival each January). Our collective passion for gathering wild
From top: Antica Terra’s
food can be traced in recent times to René Redzepi, chef of the assistant winemaker
groundbreaking Copenhagen restaurant Noma, who is currently in Andrew Riechers gath-
the process of opening—wait for it—a foraging school. ers river stones; lobster
mushrooms; forager’s
Maggie’s concept, however, was born not out of market research fuel: canelés and coffee.
or a calculated strategy to draw more visitors to her winery, but
from a passionate desire to share her sense of place. “I wanted a way
to convey the richness of this setting—what it brings to our culture,
how it’s reflected in our wines,” she tells me. My immersion into the
world of Antica Terra unfolds with special guest appearances and a
storyteller’s pace. Lee Creek, the Narnia-like stream at the northwest
corner of the valley that serves as the backdrop for our breakfast, is
where Maggie and her team harvest river rocks a few times a year to
top off a single barrel of prized cuvée from her Pinot Noir vineyard.
Afterward, we spool our way along wine-country roads to the tiny
town of Dayton, where we collect Chris Czarnecki from his restau-
rant, the Joel Palmer House. A fourth-generation chef, Chris is our
foraging expert for the day; he learned truffle hunting as a boy from
his father, Jack, who still makes a mean truffle oil.

Photograhs by M AT T M O R R I S
We forage. Andrew steers into an overgrown thicket 15 minutes rogue nettle. Andrew opens a door and ushers us into a small of-
outside of Dayton where morels were spotted the day before. My fice, past a brightly lit storage area, through a second door, and
husband and I leap out, goofy with anticipation, ring knives at the into another world.
ready. We bushwhack in separate directions, eyes trained on the The room is dark and high-ceilinged, with barrels stacked against
forest floor for the faintest hint of the elusive mushroom. the walls. An avant-garde chandelier—really a ladder strung with
Spoiler alert: We never find any. But stinging nettles? The woods lights—illuminates the surroundings. A live-edge table stands at
are lousy with them. We don three layers of plastic gloves and put the center, flanked by benches and dotted with sprigs of moss and
our ring knives to work, circling a sun-dappled grove in contented fossilized stones from the vineyard. At the head of the table, a whole
silence. There’s a meditative quality to the exercise. Has it been 30 leg of jamón ibérico de bellota holds court.
minutes? Two hours? The sack of stinging nettles at my feet qua- We’re late to the party, and the four other guests at the tasting—a
druples in size. mother and daughter from Seattle, a couple visiting from Southern
“Tailgating” in Antica Terra terms, even as a midmorning snack California—are already chatting away. Andrew transitions effort-
in the forest, means tumblers of rosé and sherry along with pâté, lessly from backcountry guide to master of ceremonies, carving
cheese, and a loaf of bread from one of Portland’s best bakeries. I slices of jamón for the group as he tells us about the wines on the
could easily keep eating—something about drinking out of the back table: three from Antica Terra and two from Maggie’s boutique
of a car you’re not driving stimulates the appetite—but we’re due at label, Lillian, but also a velvety young Beaujolais and a full-bodied
the Antica Terra winery in Dundee for the 1:30 tasting, and that’s an Provençal rosé.
appointment not to miss. Flutes of Champagne and slivers of foie gras torchon greet us at
Our mud-splattered vehicle pulls up in front of a nondescript the table. Two hours later, we’re still at the table and carousing like
building on an unremarkable road. We stumble out, our hiking old friends. The sting on my cheek has progressed to a warm glow;
boots flecked with dirt, my cheek tingling from the sting of a but whether from the nettle or the wine, I can no longer tell. We

56 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


Oregon bounty, from
wild chanterelles to
fresh-caught crab to
the forager’s reward:
expensive Champagne
and cheap beer.

leave with small packages of hazelnut-studded chocolates made says Andrew. “And that’s what we did—we went out on the boat and
especially for Antica Terra, their tops brushed with sea salt. cooked up our crabs on the Astoria dock. Then we opened these
$400 bottles of Champagne and realized we’d forgotten to bring
2. glasses, so we wound up just passing the bottles back and forth.”
The Coast Today, we’ll be washing it all down with cans of Coors Light, which
Four a.m. is an ungodly hour for a wake-up call on vacation, espe- Andrew swears has a similarly effervescent quality.
cially when you’re sacked out in a bed at the Allison Inn & Spa. At the marina, we layer up—the weather on the coast is as blus-
Which is why I’m not exactly devastated when Andrew tells us that, tery as everyone says—and Kurt teaches me a card game as I sneak
due to seasonal fishing conditions, our break-of-dawn salmon char- swigs from his flask of whiskey. When Captain Jeff arrives, trailed
ter on the Columbia River has become a quest for bottomfish with a by an excitable Jack Russell, I’m gripped by momentary trepidation.
more reasonable 6 a.m. departure. Granted, I’m not a salmon fisher- Is ocean fishing really my thing? Amid four rangy men in nautical
man; in fact, I’ve never fished at all. But after I take a precautionary rain gear, I’m highly out of my element. But we set forth, bound for
dose of Dramamine (highly recommended), our half-day jaunt to an outcropping called the South Jetty, and the wind and sea spray
the coast becomes my favorite part of the weekend. feel exhilarating on my face. The 30-foot boat slices cleanly through
Riding shotgun in the Escalade: Kurt Heilemann, the genial co- the waves. The Dramamine, to my relief, is working.
owner of Portland’s Davenport restaurant. We’re en route to Ham- Soon after Captain Jeff turns off his motor and shows me the ba-
mond, Oregon, two hours north, to meet up with Captain Jeff sics of jigging for sea bass, I begin hooking them ... and hooking
Keightley of Astoria Fishing Charters for the second half of our trip. them. My boat mates and I haul those suckers in until we hit our
The idea was sparked by a previous Antica Terra staff outing. “It limit of seven per person, which happens before 10 a.m. We also net
was the end of harvest season, and Maggie said, ‘Let’s go catch crab five crabs total in nine pots, subpar by any standard, but the sea
with our interns and sit on the dock and drink white Burgundies,’” bass more than makes up for it.

SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 57


By the time we dock in Astoria, my back is sore and I’m ravenous. other,” Maggie says. “I’m not an ER doctor. I’m not producing air
Andrew and Captain Jeff organize the cleaning of our catch as Kurt bags. When your life’s work is trying to create things of beauty, you
assembles our lunch on a picnic table. From a sack he produces should find opportunities for that in everything you do.”
radishes and lettuce, hunks of baguette, a terrine of albacore, and And it is at that dinner in the barrel room, feasting on Kurt’s
honey from a neighbor. We garnish everything with glugs of olive nettle-and-ricotta crostini and the sea bass we’d caught earlier,
oil and sea salt and fall upon it with wolfish pleasure. Then out roasted with new potatoes, that I truly grasp the nobility of forag-
come the cans of Coors Light. It’s been awhile since I felt this kind of ing. It’s a solitary activity turned act of open-handed generosity. It’s
satisfaction before noon: a day well spent, a job taken care of. about putting food on a communal table: reaping the bounty of the
natural world in order to share it.
3. The next morning, when we drive back to Portland, my husband
The Barrel Room and I will be low on conversation. We’ll gaze in silence out the wind-
After a much-needed nap back at the Allison, we return to the winery shield as vineyards and farms lose ground to shopping centers and
for a family-style dinner party. Cello music (Erik Friedlander) plays office parks. We’ll second-guess our short-term memory. Did I
on Maggie’s turntable. Rows of glasses gleam amid striped French really catch all that fish yesterday? Was I imagining that breakfast
linens and exquisitely illustrated Antica Terra wine bottles. The air by a creek? Only the dirt under my nails—and the three bottles of
thrums with the anticipation of a good meal, made even more special wine in the trunk—attest to the veracity of my adventure. Other-
by the knowledge that you helped bring the ingredients to the table. wise, I could almost swear the whole thing was just a dream. Forag-
“The highest ideal for a winemaker is that your wine will be en- ing and fishing excursions with Antica Terra, from $500/person for a
joyed with spectacular food, in a setting where people love each custom half-day experience; anticaterra.com.

58 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


Left: Forager dinner
in Antica Terra’s bar-
rel room. Below, cen-
ter: Head winemaker
and trip engineer
Maggie Harrison.

Wild Weekends
Gathering cool stuff from the wild (and eating it or wearing it)
isn’t just a hobby—it’s a reason to travel. Here
are our favorite foraging experiences around the West.

Mushrooms them, in this two-hour class,


Forage more than a dozen which starts with the mechan-
varieties of edible fungus on a ics of cocktail infusion and
two-hour Sonoma County hike ends with an absinthe bitters-
with Relish Culinary Adven- making session, with breaks
tures. You’ll learn to identify for earthy tipples in between.
the day’s haul, nibble on por- $75; foragesf.com.
cini flatbread and sip local
Pinot, and prepare your own Acorns
gourmet mushroom feast com- What do pancakes, brownies,
plete with a dessert starring ... and burgers have in common?
more mushrooms. The local They can all be made from
candy cap variety has a maple acorns. People are surprised,
flavor that’s the perfect addi- says Tucson-based herbalist
tion to bread pudding with tart John Slattery, because “even
cherries. From $129; Nov– those interested in wild foods
Mar; relishculinary.com. consider them inedible.” Slat-
tery crushes that myth in All
Natural Dyes About Acorns, a daylong
You’d be surprised at how course that traces the acorn’s
many bright colors you can journey from park to plate.
get by simply cooking up a Students get hands-on with the
few roadside weeds. Wild- southern live oak, harvesting
Craft Studio School will teach the nuts, shelling them, and
you which plants create natu- making them into flour. “You
ral dyes for making textiles. can take a gallon of acorns
Regular classes are offered at and turn it into ready-to-use
their White Salmon and Port- flour in two hours,” says Slat-
land, OR, studios; or come tery. The day ends with an
back in spring for the Coastal acorn-based feast. $98; Nov
Dye Plants course in Netarts 19; johnjslattery.com.
Bay, a weekend’s worth of
beach camping, bonfire-based Seaweed
cooking, and hiking through In her three-hour class on the
wildflowers. 1-day classes NorCal coast, seaweed forag-
from $160, weekend trips er Heidi Herrmann immerses
from $330; wildcraftstudio you in the mysterious world
school.com. of sea vegetables. You’ll har-
vest a half-dozen varieties,
Cocktails from nubbly bladderwrack to
Cedar needles. Fennel fronds. cellophane-thin nori to glisten-
Mugwort. By the time you exit ing ribbons of kombu (which
the Oakland’s Five Flavors makes for a terrific soup thick-
Herbs, where botanical mixol- ener). By the time you finish,
ogist Brian Wallace’s Foraged you’ll have a huge haul of sea-
Cocktails Workshop is held, weed to take home, along with
you’ll know how to use local, tips on how to dry and use it.
booze-friendly plants to infuse The most amazing thing? The
your own spirits, vermouths, slippery carpet you’ve been
and bitters. Wallace encourag- walking on all day won’t look
es you to “make friends with like washed-up ocean debris.
the plants.” You’ll also smell It’ll look like dinner. $90;
them and crush them and drink foragesf.com.

Illustrations by SCOTT CHAMBERS


Beauty

02

JUNI PER
RIDGE
— M t. Ta m —

A new generation of beauty companies is giving consumers a whiff of the outdoors.


By Jess Chamberlain

60 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


The team at Juniper Ridge turns mountain
hikes into earthy fragrances.

with the demand for its organic balms and


serums. “There were 500 people at the
launch party,” owner Sarah Buscho tells me.
“It was like a rock concert.”
Both companies are run by clinical herbal-
ists who promote the healing qualities of
plants. “A lot of products boast that they’re
‘toxin-free,’ ” says Buscho. “But they should Natural
WE’RE AN HOUR into our hike on Mt. Tamal-
pais when Juniper Ridge founder, Hall New-
also be packed with the good stuff.”
At the same time personal-care companies
Selections
Look good, smell great, and
begin, instructs me to rub tree sap on my double down on their back-to-the-earth ethos, sleep better with these Earth-
neck. “Now this is real perfume,” he says, Americans are becoming increasingly more first beauty products from
around the West.
working the sticky substance into his skin enamored of foraging. Wild edibles are a
as we stumble past a pile of Douglas fir mainstay at markets and on restaurant menus
branches. “It’ll last eight hours. Chanel across the West, and it’s not uncommon to see Naked Lip Whip
Kari Gran
doesn’t do this!” groups of people in, say, Berkeley or Seattle The Seattle cosmetics company
Unlike the French beauty conglomerate, collecting sow thistle and sour grass. kicks chemicals to the curb with
Juniper Ridge is something of a novelty act: “Like pickling and fermenting, foraging this soothing lip balm infused
with oil from wild pimenta ber-
an Oakland-based fragrance company run has come back into vogue,” says wild-foods ries. $16; karigran.com.
by self-described “wilderness freaks.” New- author Langdon Cook, whose book The Mush-
begin and his team make perfume from ingre- room Hunters profiles what he calls entrepre- Pure Marula Oil
African Botanics
dients foraged on hikes like this one. The neurs of the wild. “I think this re-interest in The husband-wife team behind
bundle of Doug fir branches we just passed the natural world is a response to this high- the Santa Monica skin-care
will eventually get trimmed, chopped, and tech arc we’re on.” company harvests oil from
South African marula trees to
distilled, along with other hand-collected Another hour passes and we’ve barely produce this lightly scented
goodies, into a unisex cologne. Bottles sell at budged the mountain. At one point, New- anti-aging treatment. $120;
Whole Foods, Barneys, and boutiques across begin comes across a fallen redwood tree and africanbotanics.com.
the country for 70 bucks a pop. hugs it before unloading one of his Jeopardy- Seaweed Body Butter
“We’re making perfume the way it was like facts: “These huge arbors rest for almost Samudra Skin & Sea
made 100 years ago,” says Newbegin. “If I as long as they stand—about 2,000 years.” There’s a reason the best spas
offer seaweed treatments: It’s
need an ingredient, I put on my hiking boots I tell Newbegin he reminds me of a modern- amazing for your skin. This San
and go out and get it.” day John Muir, but he says he’s more of a Francisco beauty start-up uses
Those boots have been busy: The company, matchmaker, like Chuck Woolery on the Love the good stuff from the Men-
docino Coast in a healing mois-
which Newbegin started out of his basement Connection. “I’m just giving people what they’re turizer with a healthy boost.
17 years ago, has tripled its sales in the past already in love with but don’t know it. I just From $20; samudraskin
few years, thanks in part to a robust digital make the introductions.” For information on sea.com.
presence. Juniper Ridge’s website features hikes and products, visit juniperridge.com. Eau de Parfum
product videos, while upwards Sigil Scent
of 59,000 people follow along No harsh chemicals or synthet-
ics seep into the bottles at
on Instagram as its team hits the this Ventura fragrance
mountain, the desert, the coast. company. All perfumes are
Wild-ingredient companies plant-based and use essential
oils like oakmoss and juniper.
across the West are experiencing $90; sigilscent.com.
a similar boom. Portland Apoth-
ecary has watched the demand Sea Scrub
Fig+Yarrow
for its aromatherapy oils sky- Nutrient-rich sea clay elevates
rocket since its 2012 launch, this wholesome exfoliating
while skin-care line Earth Tu scrub, made from an artisanal
apothecary in Denver. $48;
Face opened a brick-and-mortar figandyarrow.com.
in Oakland last year to keep up

Photographs by T H O M A S J . S T O RY
Drink

03

OAKL AND
SPIRITS
CO.
—Oakland—

One Oakland distillery finds inspiration in unusual places.


By Josh Sens

62 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


Distillery owner Adam Nelson uses foraged
nori to make the world’s only sea-flavored gin.

Lynn, he began experimenting with grape-


based spirits inspired by his forays into the
wild. Not everything has panned out. Last
year, the two cooked up a batch of brandy
distilled with turmeric and rosemary that,
Nelson says, “was too awful for words.”
Under California law, winemakers can sell
spirits directly to retailers, which means Nel-
son doesn’t have to work through corporate
Native
IN AN OLD BRIC K warehouse in Oakland, distributors. It also gives him the chance to Spirits
Adam Nelson leads me into a snug back hand-deliver his product to bartenders, chefs, A new crop of distillers is using
room that calls to mind the workplace of a and bottle-shop owners around the Bay Area. wild and local ingredients to
turn out a better booze. Here
Hogwarts wizard. Shelves of mason jars “Those relationships are key,” he tells me. “I are five bottles to try.
brim with a rainbow of herbs and spices: know from talking to bartenders, for exam-
Sichuan peppercorns, Turkish rhubarb, ple, that our sea gin doesn’t work with tonic
Terroir Gin
Omani lime. Bags of crinkly seaweed sit in but that it’s great in a martini.” St. George Spirits
the corner. Even as he works to expand his own prod- Bold and piney, this gin from
Nelson, in his early 40s, gives me a run- ucts, Nelson operates OsCo as a local incuba- master distiller Lance Winter is
flavored with herbs inspired by
down of their provenance. Some he’s foraged tor, availing his resources to select home dis- his hikes on Marin’s Mt. Tamal-
in the foothills of southern Nevada. Others tillers. And the company plans to kick-start a pais. $30; stgeorgespirits.com.
have been plucked from East Bay gardens or tasting series with neighboring food-maker
Spy Hop Select #5
sniffed out at a local spice shop. collective Forage Kitchen. “I’d like to get to a San Juan Island Distillery
They’re all fodder for the experimentation point where we’re helping chefs develop their Most gins are made from a
he oversees at Oakland Spirits Company, the own spirits,” says Nelson. In the meantime, grain alcohol, but Spy Hop uses
an apple-spirit base before
distillery he cofounded last year. “So much of when he isn’t foraging for ingredients, Nelson adding foraged botanicals like
drinking culture seems to be about nostal- can often be found trolling his favorite aqua- lavender, madrone bark, and
gia,” says Nelson. “But I don’t want to dust off ponics garden in West Oakland or roaming wild rose hips. $70; sanjuan
islanddistillery.com.
the past. I’m interested in a drink that speaks the aisles of Oaktown Spice Shop.
to the here and now.” Back in his own spice room, Nelson reach- The Emerald 1865
To demonstrate what the here and now es for some Timut peppercorns from Nepal, Ransom
Based on a 150-year-old Irish
might taste like, Nelson pours me a snifter’s which give off a sharp whiff of grapefruit. He recipe, this smooth-sipping
worth of lemongrass brandy. It’s bright and digs into the bag, pulls out a palm full of fra- straight whiskey is distilled from
refreshing, with a gentle citrus bite. Next up, grant black beads, and inhales. “I’m thinking organic grains grown, milled,
mashed, and fermented on
shiso brandy: herbaceous with hints of anise. amaro. Or spiced rum. Yes, almost definitely Ransom’s Sheridan, Oregon,
Then he pours his signature spirit, a sea gin spiced rum.” $7 tasting; oakland.ventures. farm. $75; ransomspirits.com.
made with coastal bay, sage, and nori foraged
Fog Point
on the Mendocino Coast. With its briny, brac- Hangar One
ing flavor, it’s a striking departure from a Best way to beat the Bay Area
marketplace filled with gins that Nelson finds fog? Drink it. Distiller Caley
Shoemaker converts local fog
“too pretty and perfumey.” into fresh water, which she mix-
Convention isn’t something Nelson readily es with a wine-based vodka to
embraces. A Texas native, he spent a decade turn out a spirit that’s crisp,
clean, and layered. $125;
working in San Francisco’s high-tech indus- hangarone.com.
try, before leaving dot-coms for a different
kind of start-up. Two Mile Wines, the winery Douglas Fir Liqueur
Brovo Spirits
he cofounded in 2006, sits two doors from The distillers pluck new-growth
the distillery in Uptown Oakland. Doug fir from Mt. Baker and
“I started looking at all the grapes we were infuse it with agave nectar to
produce a light and earthy
buying and thought, What else can we do mixer. $12; brovospirits.com.
with these?” says Nelson. With distiller Matt

Photographs by T H O M A S J . S T O RY
64 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET
A new book by Sunset’s garden editor
celebrates the West’s dry-gardening hero.
P H O T O G R A P H S BY M A R I O N B R E N N E R
GROWING
A LEGACY

Ruth Bancroft stands


with one of her gar-
den’s agaves in 2004.
A former teacher and
a mother of three,
Bancroft originally
hired a designer to
help with the garden
but then quickly took
over. She once said
she loved gardening
because it was a
chance for her to do
exactly as she liked; it
also satisfied her love
of collecting.

RUTH
Bancroft was in her 60s
when she planted her gar-
den in Walnut Creek, Cali-
fornia, with desert fan
palms. Friends asked why she bothered. After all, she might not live
long enough to see the palms reach very high. “Who cares if I’m
around?” was her response. “Someone will be. And if I don’t plant
them, then nobody will get to see them.”
Five decades later, Bancroft, who just celebrated her 108th birth-
day, has not only lived long enough to be dwarfed by those palms,
but has also proven to be ahead of her time. When a horticulturalist
discovered her 3-acre home garden in the late 1980s, he was so awe-
struck that he created The Garden Conservancy, a nonprofit dedi-
cated to preserving significant gardens, starting with Bancroft’s.
Today, as the West wakes up with what feels like a collective hang-
over from the era of overly irrigated landscapes, the Ruth Bancroft
Garden is the perfect antidote—dry yet lush, bold yet welcoming,
and full of natural curiosities. —Johanna Silver

THE RUTH BANCROFT GARDEN is open to the public (10–4 Tue–Sun). Get
more details at ruthbancroftgarden.org.
ADAP TED FROM The Bold Dry Garden (Timber Press, 2016; $35) by
Johanna Silver.

66 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


RUTH BANCROFT GARDEN, PUBLISHED BY TIMBER PRESS, PORTLAND, OR. USED BY PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
IMAGES TAKEN FROM THE BOLD DRY GARDEN: LESSONS FROM THE RUTH BANCROFT GARDEN © 2016 BY JOHANNA SILVER AND THE

VARIATION
ON A THEME

Page 65: Bancroft


approached each bed
in her garden as an
opportunity to show off
the diversity in a single
plant type, as with this
wall of palms.

A SHOCK
OF COLOR

This page: After plant-


ing a silk floss tree
(Ceiba speciosa) from
a gallon container in
the mid-1970s, Ban-
croft babied it, wrap-
ping it in plastic each
winter until it outgrew
her reach. Forty years
later, it stands 35 feet
tall and welcomes fall
with bright pink flowers.
BETTER
TOGETHER

As the garden matured,


Bancroft saw chances
to create microclimates.
As this Chilopsis grew,
for instance, she made
it a nurse tree for fuzzy
columnar Oreocereus
pseudofossulatus,
which thrives in dap-
pled shade. A sphere
of strappy leaves from
a Dasylirion erupts
from the middle of the
trunk, and mounds of
Deuterocohnia (a razor-
sharp terrestrial bromeli-
ad) grow below.
ALOES IN
WONDERLAND

Bancroft’s garden is per-


haps most famous for its va-
rieties of aloe, including this
golden-blooming ‘Creamsi-
cle’ plant. While Bancroft
was captivated by aloe’s
fleshy-leafed, structural ro-
settes, the plants are also
noteworthy for their yearly
bright red, orange, and yel-
low blooms. Most aloes hail
from summer-rainfall climates,
but they are forgiving and
will make the most of what-
ever water they get.

SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 69


Food styling by KAREN SHINTO
Prop styling by BIANCA SOTELO
LAURA HOLLABAUGH FOR AUBRI BALK

Wardrobe by LAURA HOLLABAUGH


Hair by JESSICA MAYEUX
Makeup by ASHLEY BIAS

70 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


Sweet-Potato
Chips with
Crème Fraîche
and Caviar

Toast of the
TOWN
Food-world stars Ayesha Curry and Amanda
Haas share their true-life-tested recipes
and tips for throwing a memorable (and
stress-free!) holiday party.

BY MARGO TRUE AND ANGELA BRASSINGA


PHOTOGRAPHS BY THOMAS J. STORY

Sweet and
Savory
Shrimp and
Grits
Ayesha Curry &
Amanda Haas
are feeding each other sweet-potato chips with caviar and laughing. They’re
Brown-
Sugar
Bacon
Bites
tasting one of the party recipes they’ve put together and know they have a hit.
When Ayesha and Amanda get together in the kitchen, it’s like a slumber party,
albeit one where the conversation revolves around family and food (and, okay,
shopping and tequila). The two met when a mutual friend invited Amanda, culi-
nary director for Williams-Sonoma, to Ayesha’s place three years ago. They in-
stantly connected over their shared love of cooking—and basketball: Ayesha is
married to NBA megastar Stephen Curry, while Amanda’s dad played for Univer-
sity of Kansas. But their essentially joyful attitude is what they most have in com-
mon. “Amanda knows how to laugh her way through anything, and who doesn’t
want to be around that?” says Ayesha. “Plus, she makes amazing brownies.”
Over the past couple of years, both women have risen in the food world, cheer-
ing each other on along the way. Ayesha hosts Ayesha’s Homemade on the Food Cranberry
Network and just released The Seasoned Life (Little, Brown and Co.; $27). Aman- Tequila
Punch
da, author of The Anti-Inflammation Cookbook (Chronicle Books; $28), is fast es-
tablishing herself as a healthy-eating expert. They’ve also teamed up for cooking
demos that are as fun as they are inspiring, with inventive yet doable recipes.
Today, they’re giving the Sunset staff a taste of how they cook and celebrate,
serving holiday appetizers and drinks at the magazine’s latest Idea House (for
more on the house, see page 31). While putting the last touches on their spread—
taking breaks to sip cocktails and strike Charlie’s Angels poses for the camera—
they talk about their most memorable parties. Ayesha’s first attempt at hosting
was her 13th birthday, when she invited a bunch of friends over to cook: “We
just made stuff up and the grown-ups had to eat it all.” Amanda started making
dinners for her roommates in college, parties that grew until she says she was
“entertaining the whole neighborhood.”
Now both women entertain at least once a month, taking slightly different ap-
proaches. “I like to have fun at my own parties, so I try to do everything ahead,”
says Amanda. “Then when the party starts, I relax.” Ayesha, on the other
hand … “You can tagline me as the one who’s still learning,” she says. “I am that
crazy person who’s in the kitchen the whole time.”
Even when they’re in the throes of preparing for a party, though, both make
room for their kids in the kitchen. Viewers of Ayesha’s previous show, CSN Bay
Area’s Cookin’ with the Currys—not to mention her nearly 4 million Instagram
fans—have seen how Riley, 4, pretty much can’t be kept out of the kitchen. “I
have to get her involved, or I don’t get anything done,” says Ayesha, whose other
daughter, Ryan, is 1. Amanda, mother of Charlie, 10, and Connor, 13, says in-
volving the kids is worth it even if it adds to the chaos. “Of course it’s a mess, but
you’re paying it forward to get them interested in cooking,” she says. “And if I
can just get the food done in time, I’m psyched.”
For this menu, the food has come together without a hitch, thanks to a strong
game plan the two of them hatched weeks ago. Delving into their cookbooks for
inspiration, they put together an almost entirely make-ahead spread that’s all
about bold flavors: warm shrimp on cheesy grits, roasted-vegetable crudités,
snack-size brown-sugar bacon, and of course, a big-batch tequila cocktail.

72 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


Lime & Basil
Chimichurri

Smoky
Cauliflower
Hummus

Hazelnut
Mint
Romesco

Roasted
Crudités
ROASTED CRUDITÉS Sprinkle carrots with thyme, and cover, and let sit until cool enough to
sprinkle fennel with parsley. Serve at handle. Remove and discard stems,
SERVES 10 TO 12 / 1 HOUR room temperature. skins, seeds, and juices. Chop peppers
Amanda’s rustic take on the raw vegetable MAKE AHEAD Through Step 2, up to roughly and set aside.
platter is great for fall parties, especially 1 day, chilled and covered (add a couple of 4. Heat 1 tbsp. oil in a medium frying pan
when served with her homemade dips (see minutes to roasting time). Through Step 4, over medium heat. Add garlic, shallot,
below). Although she’s gluten-intolerant, up to 2 hours. and chile flakes and cook, stirring, until
she doesn’t see it as a limitation when she garlic is just beginning to brown and shal-
PER SERVING 120 Cal., 24% (29 Cal.) from fat; lot has softened, about 2 minutes.
entertains. “There’s so much you can do
2.6 g protein; 3.3 g fat (0.5 g sat.); 22 g carbo (4.4 g
besides set out a baguette and cheese. It fiber); 112 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. LC/LS/VG
5. In a food processor, pulse toasted whole
makes me be a more creative cook.” hazelnuts until chopped. Add roasted
peppers and garlic-shallot mixture to pro-
11⁄4 lbs. slender rainbow carrots or regular HAZELNUT cessor and pulse a few more times, scrap-
carrots (4 to 5 in. long), with tops on MINT ROMESCO ing processor with a spatula if necessary.
11⁄4 lbs. long fingerling potatoes Add remaining 1 tbsp. oil, the sherry vin-
(at least 3 in.) egar, 1/2 tsp. salt, and the pepper. Process
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS / 1 HOUR
1 large butternut squash with a long neck to a coarse but uniform purée.
Romesco, the Spanish red-pepper dip,
3 small fennel bulbs 6. Stir in mint and lemon juice, then season
is terrific on grilled steak or fish too.
8 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided with more salt and pepper if you like.
Kosher salt Spoon into a serving bowl and sprinkle
1⁄ 3 cup hazelnuts, divided
Dips: Smoky Cauliflower Hummus, with some reserved chopped hazelnuts.
3 red bell peppers
Hazelnut Mint Romesco, and/or Lime MAKE AHEAD Up to 1 week, chilled
21⁄ 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
and Basil Chimichurri airtight.
About 1⁄ 2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. each minced fresh thyme leaves
1 garlic clove, peeled and coarsely PER 2-TBSP. SERVING 59 Cal., 78% (46 Cal.) from fat;
and flat-leaf parsley leaves 0.9 g protein; 5.3 g fat (0.6 g sat.); 2.8 g carbo (1 g fiber);
chopped (optional)
65 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. GF/LC/LS/VG
1 small shallot, sliced
1. Preheat oven to 475°. Line two or three 1⁄4 tsp. red chile flakes
large rimmed baking sheets with parch-
ment paper. Trim carrot tops to 1 in. Peel
11⁄ 2 tsp. sherry vinegar SMOKY
Pinch of pepper
carrots and halve any that are wider than CAULIFLOWER
11⁄ 2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh mint
1/2 in. Peel potatoes and cut into 1/2-in.-
1 tbsp. lemon juice
HUMMUS
wide pieces. Slice bulbous base from but-
ternut squash, then halve neck length- MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS / 35 MINUTES
wise. Peel one of the halves, then cut into 1. Preheat oven to 400° with a rack in the
“Three times a week at home, I roast cauli-
1/2-in.-wide pieces. Save remaining top third. Put hazelnuts on a rimmed
flower florets until they’re caramelized,”
squash for another use (such as soup). baking sheet. Line another rimmed bak-
says Amanda. “We eat them by the bucket.”
Trim fibrous green stalks from fennel ing sheet with parchment paper.
This recipe is a natural extension.
bulbs and cut bulb lengthwise into 2. Roast hazelnuts until slightly darker and
1/2-in.-thick slices (see photo, page 73). skins begin to blister, about 7 minutes.
1⁄ 2 head cauliflower (1 to 11⁄ 2 lbs.),
2. Arrange each vegetable on a kitchen Wrap in a kitchen towel and let sit 2 to 3
minutes. Rub nuts against one another trimmed and cut into 2-in. florets (about
towel, top with another kitchen towel,
in towel until most of the skins are off 4 cups florets)
and roll up to dry. Working with one
vegetable at a time, unwrap onto a bak- (it’s okay to have some left). Set nuts aside 41⁄ 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
ing sheet in a pile. Toss with 2 tsp. oil and let cool completely. Once cool, coarse- About 1 tsp. smoked paprika
and a pinch or two of salt, then arrange ly chop 3 or 4 nuts for topping. 2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1⁄ 2 tsp. ground cumin
in a single layer on sheet. Repeat with 3. Meanwhile, put bell peppers in a large
1⁄4 tsp. red chile flakes
the remaining vegetables. bowl. Drizzle with 1/2 tbsp. oil, sprinkle
3. Roast vegetables, shaking once halfway with a generous pinch of salt, and toss to 2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
through to help cook evenly, until just coat well. Transfer to lined baking sheet About 2 tbsp. lemon juice
tender-crisp and lightly browned, 6 to and roast 15 minutes. Turn peppers over 31⁄ 2 tbsp. well-stirred tahini
10 minutes. and roast until charred, soft, and skins
4. Arrange vegetables and dips on a very are beginning to puff and/or peel away, 1. Preheat oven to 450°. Put cauliflower
large platter or several small platters. 20 minutes more. Transfer to a bowl, florets in a large bowl and add 11/2 tbsp.

74 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


oil, 1 tsp. paprika, 1/2 tsp. salt, the
cumin, chile flakes, and garlic. Toss to
coat thoroughly.
2. Spread florets evenly on a large rimmed
baking sheet and roast, stirring once, un-
til florets are cooked through and a little
crispy, 18 to 20 minutes. Let cool.
3. Put 1/2 cup water in a blender with roast-
ed cauliflower and garlic, lemon juice,
remaining 3 tbsp. oil, the tahini, and re-
maining 11/2 tsp. salt. Blend, adding more
water if needed (up to 1/4 cup) and scrap-
ing sides often, until you have a creamy
purée, about 4 minutes. Taste and add
more salt or lemon juice if you like.
4. Spoon into a serving bowl and sprinkle
with a pinch of smoked paprika.
MAKE AHEAD Up to 3 days, chilled
airtight.

PER 2-TBSP SERVING 61 Cal., 82% (50 Cal.) from fat;


1.1 g protein; 5.8 g fat (0.8 g sat.); 2.4 g carbo (0.7 g
fiber); 199 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. VG

LIME and BASIL


CHIMICHURRI
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP / 15 MINUTES
This Argentine-style herb sauce, says
Amanda, “is like an obsession for me. I love
the vibrant color and how versatile it is—
you can take whatever herbs you have in
the fridge and throw them in.”

2 tbsp. lime juice (from 1 or 2 large limes)


3 garlic cloves, minced
About 1⁄ 2 tsp. kosher salt
1 oz. flat-leaf parsley leaves (about
11⁄ 2 cups packed)
1⁄ 2 oz. each packed basil leaves and cilantro

leaves and tender stems (3⁄4 cup each)


About 1⁄ 2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

In a food processor, pulse lime juice, garlic,


1/2 tsp. salt, parsley, basil, and cilantro until

coarsely chopped. Drizzle in oil, pulsing,


until a thick sauce forms (you may not need
all the oil). Taste and season with salt.

MAKE AHEAD Up to 1 week, chilled airtight.

PER TBSP. 125 Cal., 97% (121 Cal.) from fat; 0.3 g protein;
14 g fat (2 g sat.); 1 g carbo (0.2 g fiber); 98 mg sodium;
0 mg chol. GF/VG
BROWN-SUGAR 3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tbsp. dark brown sugar
BACON BITES 1⁄ 2 cup dry white wine

1 lb. shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.), peeled,


SERVES 10 TO 12 / 40 MINUTES, PLUS ABOUT deveined
40 MINUTES TO COOL
2 tbsp. lemon juice
Ayesha’s whole family is smitten with the
2 tbsp. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
sweet, crisp bacon at BrickTop’s restaurant
3 green onions, green parts only, sliced
in North Carolina. For her riff on it, she
cuts the bacon snack-size and piles it up in
small bowls like cocktail nuts. 1. Cook grits according to package instruc-
tions. Stir in cheeses and butter, plus salt
and pepper to taste. Keep warm.
20 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into
2. Heat oil in a large frying pan over medi-
2-in. pieces
1⁄4 cup dark brown sugar
um heat. Sauté onion until it begins to
soften but not brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add
2 tsp. pepper
1⁄ 2 tsp. ground fennel seed
peppers and a pinch each salt and pepper,
then cook until tender-crisp, 3 minutes.
Add garlic and cook until fragrant, 1
1. Preheat oven to 400°. Line two rimmed minute. Stir in brown sugar and wine. In-
baking sheets with foil and set a wire crease heat and simmer until liquid is re-
rack in each. Arrange bacon on racks in duced by half. Add shrimp; cook until just
a single layer (some overlapping is okay). curled and pink, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in
2. Mix brown sugar, pepper, and fennel lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.
and sprinkle over bacon. Bake until ba- 3. Stir enough hot water into grits to make
con is crisp, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating them soft and spoonable. Spoon 2 tbsp.
pans halfway through. warm grits onto each of 10 to 12 small
3. Let bacon cool to warm room tempera- plates. Top each with 2 shrimp, 1 tbsp.
ture so sugar will harden. Arrange the pepper-wine sauce, a sprinkle of parsley,
pieces in an airy heap in small bowls. and a few green onion slices.
PER SERVING 126 Cal., 63% (80 Cal.) from fat; PER SERVING 128 Cal., 43% (55 Cal.) from fat; 8.2 g
7.9 g protein; 8.9 g fat (2.9 g sat.); 3.2 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); protein; 6.2 g fat (2.6 g sat.); 9.9 g carbo (0.9 g fiber);
491 mg sodium; 23 mg chol. GF/LC 108 mg sodium; 66 mg chol. LC/LS

SWEET and SAVORY SWEET-POTATO


SHRIMP and GRITS CHIPS with CRÈME
FRAÎCHE and CAVIAR
SERVES 10 TO 12 / 35 MINUTES
A couple of years ago, Ayesha came up
SERVES 10 TO 12 / 15 MINUTES
with this spin on a Southern classic. Usually
Amanda especially likes California-raised
she adds bacon, but given that the party
Tsar Nicoulai Caviar. It’s a splurge, but she
menu already included Brown-Sugar Bacon
makes room in her party budget for it by
(above), it’s omitted here.
preparing some inexpensive dishes (like
vegetable crudités, page 74).
1⁄ 2 cup quick-cooking grits
1⁄4 cup each shredded mild cheddar cheese
Arrange sweet-potato chips (such as Terra)
and shredded fontina cheese
or Red Bliss potato chips on a platter. Spoon
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
1 tsp. or so crème fraîche on each, top with
Kosher salt 1/2 tsp. or so black malossol caviar, and
Pepper
sprinkle with chopped fresh chives.
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1⁄ 2 cup minced yellow onion PER CHIP 34 Cal., 74% (25 Cal.) from fat; 1 g protein;
1 each yellow bell pepper and red bell 3 g fat (1.4 g sat.); 1.3 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 41 mg sodium;
20 mg chol. LC/LS
pepper, seeded and diced

76 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


PA RT Y T I P S
F RO M
A M A N DA &
AY E S H A
1. Set a schedule
“Draw up a list of tasks and
add how much time each
will take, so you leave
enough time to do every-
thing,” urges Amanda.
“On party day, add time
to nap.”

2. Make a mocktail
Ayesha always makes a
festive, nonalcoholic sip. “I
have kids! And a lot of
pregnant friends,” she says.
“Substituting the alcohol
with a refreshing fruit pu-
rée and a touch of fizz
makes all the difference.”

3. Loosen up
“Include a personal touch
so people know you’re not
taking entertaining too
seriously,” says Amanda.
Her suggestion: kid-drawn
recipe labels or nametags.

4. Deputize a DJ
For music, “delegate to
a friend who’s a music
fanatic and ask for fun,
festive, and upbeat,”
says Amanda. “When
in doubt … Adele!”
adds Ayesha.

5. Make cooking
part of the fun
Get your guests involved
in the cooking, like mak-
ing biscuits, suggests
Ayesha. “I like getting peo-
ple’s hands dirty.”

PAGE 70 : John Julian fruit stand, Skultuna


brass boule vase, Michael Verheyden
T-Light in white alabaster, Verheyden tray
in marble, marchsf.com; glassware,
crateandbarrel.com. PAGE 76 : Beckett
bar cart in Antique Brass, williams-sonoma.
com; Skultuna brass candlesticks, marchsf.
com. Ayesha’s top by Tiny, skirt by Maje,
shoes by Thalia Sodi, and earrings by
J. Crew; Amanda’s top by Maje,
skirt by Maeve, shoes by Zara, and
necklace by J. Crew.
2 bottles sparkling wine, such as prosecco
CHOCOLATE CHERRY *Virgin coconut oil is cold-pressed, isn’t hy-
10 to 12 fresh rosemary sprigs (4 in.)
drogenated, and has a clean, sweet taste.
COCONUT BROWNIES Find it, along with coconut flakes, at well-
stocked grocery stores. 1. Make ice ring: Pour 1 cup each apple and
MAKES ABOUT 36 / 1 HOUR cranberry juice into an 8- to 9-in. bundt
MAKE AHEAD 3 days, chilled airtight.
Although you can use all-purpose wheat or ring mold. Add half of orange slices in
flour, gluten-free flour (in combination with PER BROWNIE 129 Cal., 51% (66 Cal.) from fat; a single layer and about 1/3 of cranberries.
1.3 g protein; 7.5 g fat (5.3 g sat.); 14 g carbo (1.3 g fiber);
coconut oil) makes these brownies more Freeze until firm, at least 3 hours.
31 mg sodium; 24 mg chol. GF/V
tender and luscious. Let chill overnight for 2. Set aside 24 to 36 cranberries for gar-
a firmer, easier-to-cut brownie. nish. Pour remaining berries into mold,
HOLIDAY then add remaining orange slices. Fill
3⁄4 cup each dried sour cherries and orange SMOOTHIES with another 1 cup each apple and cran-
liqueur, such as Grand Marnier berry juices. Freeze until frozen solid, at
1⁄4 cup large unsweetened coconut flakes* least 3 hours more.
SERVES 10 / 15 MINUTES, PLUS 1 HOUR
11⁄ 2 cups semisweet chocolate chips, divided TO FREEZE 3. Just before serving, mix remaining 4
¾ cup unrefined (virgin) coconut oil* “I created this on the fly when I wanted cups of each juice with tequila, orange
1⁄ 2 cup gluten-free flour, such as Cup4Cup liqueur, and sparkling wine in a large
something sweet and nondairy,” says
or Bob’s Red Mill Ayesha. It’s an excellent sub for eggnog. bowl or pitcher. Remove mold from
1⁄4 cup Dutch-process unsweetened freezer and invert onto a plate. Run bot-
cocoa powder 4 bananas, peeled, sliced, and frozen tom of mold under warm water until it
1⁄ 2 tsp. fine sea salt releases, a few seconds. Slide ice ring
8 Medjool dates, pitted, coarsely chopped,
1 cup turbinado sugar (raw cane sugar) and frozen into a punch bowl fruit side up. Fill bowl
4 eggs 3 cups canned coconut milk, chilled with punch.
1 tsp. vanilla About 1⁄ 2 tsp. freshly ground nutmeg 4. To serve, skewer each reserved cranber-
ry with a toothpick to make a hole. Strip
2/3 of leaves from bottom of rosemary
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Oil a 9- by 9-in. In a blender, whirl bananas, dates, coconut
baking pan and line bottom with a milk, and 1/2 tsp. nutmeg until bananas are sprigs, then slide 2 or 3 cranberries onto
sheet of parchment paper large enough smooth and dates are finely chopped. Pour each sprig. Fill glasses with punch and
to come up 2 opposite ends of pan and into 10 chilled 4-oz. glasses and top each with set a sprig in or across each glass.
hang over sides. Put cherries in a small a pinch of nutmeg. MAKE AHEAD Ice ring, up to 1 week.
bowl and pour in liqueur. Let soak 30
PER SERVING 229 Cal., 58% (132 Cal.) from fat; PER ½-CUP SERVING 180 Cal., 0.3% (0.6 Cal.) from fat;
minutes. Meanwhile, toast coconut on 2.2 g protein; 15 g fat (13 g sat.); 27 g carbo (2.5 g fiber); 0 g protein; 0.1 g fat (0.01 g sat.); 19 g carbo (0 g fiber);
a rimmed baking sheet until golden, 9.5 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. 4 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.
3 to 5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a microwave-safe bowl,
melt 3/4 cup chocolate chips with the coco- CRANBERRY
nut oil, heating in 20-second bursts and TEQUILA PUNCH
then stirring, until chocolate is 3/4 melted.
Stir until melted, then cool slightly. MAKES 12 CUPS (24 SERVINGS) / 20 MINUTES, WINE PICKS
3. Whisk flour, cocoa powder, and salt to- PLUS 6 HOURS TO FREEZE ICE RING
“Tequila is just as versatile as popular France’s Rhône Valley grapes
gether in a medium bowl. Add sugar,
embrace this menu’s big flavors,
eggs, and vanilla to melted chocolate and spirits like gin and vodka,” says Amanda, says Sunset wine editor Sara
whisk to mix. Whisk in flour mixture. who created this pretty punch. Schneider. Her top whites for
the party: Kitá 2014 Camp
Drain cherries (save liqueur for cocktails). 4 Vineyard “T’aya” (Santa Ynez
Stir cherries and remaining 3/4 cup choc- 6 cups each chilled bottled apple juice and Valley; $22) and Tablas Creek
olate chips into batter. cranberry cocktail, divided 2015 “Patelin de Tablas Blanc”
(Paso Robles; $25). For reds, she
4. Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake un- 1 large orange, halved lengthwise, then suggests Halter Ranch 2014
til a toothpick inserted in center comes thinly sliced crosswise “CDP” (Adelaida District,
out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let brownies 11⁄ 3 cups fresh cranberries, divided Paso Robles; $32) and Lasseter
Family 2013 “Chemin De Fer”
cool (or chill), then lift out using parch- 2 cups gold (100% agave) or reposado (Sonoma Valley; $56).
ment paper and cut into 11/2-in. squares. (aged) tequila
5. Arrange brownies on a serving tray and 1 cup orange-flavored liqueur, such as
top with coconut flakes. Grand Marnier or Cointreau

78 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


Chocolate
Cherry
Coconut
Brownies
Food & Drink
HOLIDAY FOOD

A FOOLPROOF
FEAST
Our Test Kitchen’s guide to mastering
the Thanksgiving classics—with a few
Western twists along the way.
By Angela Brassinga,
Elaine Johnson, and
Margo True
FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

Photographs by R O M U L O YA N E S
grilled
butterflied
turkey
«
make -ahead
white
wine gravy
»
GRILLED rack to drain 30 minutes more. temperature at the bone, where it’s
4. Remove turkey from rack and drain coolest, gives the most consistent
liquid from baking sheet. Pat turkey reading). Position the readout near

BUTTERFLIED dry and smear all over with oil.


Season with ground pepper. With
the grill.
7. Grill turkey, covered, until thermome-

TURKEY
SERVES 10 TO 12 / 3 1⁄4 HOURS, PLUS 12
breast up, tuck wings under body
to help keep the turkey flat as it
ter registers 160°, 11/2 to 2 hours. With
two wide spatulas, transfer turkey to
grills. Wrap ends of drumsticks a cutting board. Tent loosely with foil
HOURS TO BRINE
with a quadruple thickness of foil so and let rest in a warm place 15 min-
After years of experimenting with differ-
they won’t char. utes (temperature will rise as it rests).
ent techniques in the Test Kitchen, we’ve
5. Meanwhile, prepare a gas grill for 8. In the kitchen, carve the turkey, slic-
landed on butterflying and grilling as
indirect medium-high heat (400° to ing breasts off the bone whole and
the path to a better bird. Flattened out,
450°). You’ll cook the turkey over a thickly slicing crosswise. Arrange
the turkey cooks more evenly and quick-
cooler area, and over a pan of water, so pieces on a platter, tuck herb sprigs
ly, keeping the meat moist, while grilling
it cooks slowly and evenly, and so its around meat, and bring to the table.
produces ultra-crisp skin. Plus, your
dripping juices won’t cause flare-ups. *Flaky Jacobsen and Diamond Crystal
oven is freed up for cooking sides. This
Remove cooking grates, turn all burn- salts are fluffier than Morton’s, so the rec-
recipe is for a gas grill; for charcoal di-
ers to high, close lid, and heat 10 min- ommended measurement is different.
rections, see sunset.com/grilledturkey.
utes. Turn off center burner(s) and re-
duce heat for others to medium-high. PER SERVING 592 Cal., 43% (255 Cal.) from fat;
79 g protein; 28 g fat (8 g sat.); 0 g carbo (0 g fiber);
EQUIPMENT NOTES For brining, Set a 12- by 18-in. foil roasting pan on 570 mg sodium; 229 mg chol. GF
you’ll need a 12-qt. or larger stockpot (or turned-off burner and add 1 qt. hot tap
a smaller pot to make the brine, plus a water. Oil cooking grates and set in
brining bag to hold the cooled brine and place (push down on grates to flatten VARIATIONS
turkey). You’ll also need a 12- by 18-in. pan a bit if you need to). Celery-Herb Grilled Turkey
foil roasting pan. An inexpensive cable- 6. Set turkey, breast side up with legs In a bowl, combine 6 tbsp. chopped cel-
style thermometer (such as Polder) will turned inward, on cooking grate ery leaves; 3 tbsp. each chopped fresh
let you track the bird’s temperature with- over drip pan. Insert a digital cable- rosemary and sage leaves; and 11/2 tbsp.
out uncovering the grill and losing heat. style thermometer through thickest chopped fresh thyme leaves. Add to
part of breast to the bone (testing pepper in step 4 and rub over turkey.
3⁄4cup kosher salt (if using Morton) or
1 cup (if using Jacobsen or Diamond
Crystal)*
1 tsp. peppercorns
HOW TO BUTTERFLY A TURKEY
You can always ask a butcher to do it, but flattening out the bird yourself is simpler than you
1 turkey (12 to 14 lbs.), butterflied might think. For grilling, choose a 12- to 14-lb. bird, which is small enough to fit within the
3 to 4 tbsp. olive oil indirect-heat area and will serve 10 to 12 people.
1 tsp. ground pepper
Herb sprigs, such as sage, rosemary,
thyme, and/or parsley

1. Make a brine (it penetrates more even-


ly than a dry salt rub): Heat salt and
peppercorns with 11/2 qts. water in a
12-qt. stockpot over high heat, stirring,
until salt dissolves. Remove from heat,
stir in 3 qts. ice water, and let cool. 1. Set turkey, breast down, 2. Turn turkey breast side 3. Set turkey, breast side
2. Trim fat lumps from turkey. Rinse in a clean sink. If there’s up. With your full weight, up with legs turned inward,
ILLUSTRATIONS: JOE MCKENDRY

bird and set, breast down, in brine. If a turkey truss, remove it. hands on top of each oth- on grate over drip pan, be-
With poultry shears, such er, press down to crack tween banks of coals (on
needed, add more cold water to cover as Wüsthof ($80; williams- breastbones and flatten charcoal) or over turned-off
by 1 in. Chill, covered, 12 to 16 hours. sonoma.com), cut along breast. Tuck wingtips un- burner (on gas). Insert a
3. One hour before cooking, set a cooling both sides of backbone and der body (this helps keep digital cable-style thermom-
remove it; save for gravy. the bird flat); wrap ends eter through thickest part of
rack in a large rimmed baking sheet. Cut off tail and loose skin of drumsticks with a qua- breast to the bone; position
Drain and rinse turkey, then set on and save for gravy. druple thickness of foil. the readout near the grill.

SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 83


crisp-top
sourdough
stuffing
«

cranberry and
blenheim
apricot sauce
»
Fennel-Garlic Grilled Turkey
In a bowl, mix 3 tbsp. each fennel seeds
and chopped fresh rosemary leaves;
2 tbsp. each chopped fresh thyme
leaves and ground fennel seeds; 1 tbsp.
chopped fresh sage leaves; and 4 tsp.
garlic powder. Add to pepper in step 4
and rub over oiled turkey.

MAKE-AHEAD
WHITE WINE GRAVY
MAKES 7 1⁄ 2 CUPS / 2 1⁄ 2 HOURS
This recipe takes the last-minute hassle
out of gravy making by not relying on
pan drippings. Before browning the
flour, have the broth measured so you
fall greens can whisk it in at just the right moment.
and
apple salad Turkey backbone (optional; broken in
« half), neck, tail, loose skin, and giblets
(except liver)
21⁄ 2 qts. reduced-sodium chicken broth
11⁄ 2 cups dry white wine, divided
2 large carrots, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
3 large celery stalks, chopped (save
leaves for Celery-Herb Grilled Turkey,
if doing, page 83)
1 handful thyme sprigs, plus 11⁄ 2 tsp.
chopped fresh thyme leaves
About 1 tsp. each kosher salt and pepper
11⁄4 cups flour

1. Make turkey broth: In a 6- to 8-qt. pot,


bring turkey pieces, chicken broth, 11/4
cups wine, the carrots, onion, celery,
thyme sprigs, and 1 tsp. each salt and
pepper to a boil over high heat. Cover,
reduce heat, and simmer until meat is
tender when pierced, 11/2 hours. Strain
broth into a bowl, pressing solids to
extract juices, and discard solids. Mea-
sure 2 qts. broth and set aside. (Save
extra for other uses.) Wipe pot clean
with paper towels.
2. Set pot over medium heat, add flour,
and cook, whisking constantly, until
flour begins to smoke, smells slightly
burnt, and has turned a rich medium
brown, 10 to 15 minutes. (You’ll use

SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 85


quite a bit of flour, since well-browned Pour out 2 tbsp. butter and set aside. Put all ingredients with 1/4 cup water in a
flour thickens less than raw flour.) 3. Add onion, celery, herbs, and 1/2 tsp. medium saucepan. Simmer over low heat,
Carefully whisk in 2 cups reserved each salt and pepper to hot pan. Cook stirring often, until most of the cranber-
broth and whisk into a smooth paste. until onions are translucent and celery ries have popped, 10 to 15 minutes. Add
Whisk in 11/2 qts. more broth, the re- is tender-crisp, about 15 minutes. sugar and salt to taste if you like.
maining 1/4 cup wine, and chopped Transfer to a large bowl. MAKE AHEAD Up to 1 week, chilled.
thyme. (Adding wine and herbs shortly 4. Add torn bread and broth to vegeta-
PER 2-TBSP. SERVING 67 Cal., 0.7% (0.5 Cal.) from
before serving gives the gravy a big fla- bles and mix in until bread is soaked. fat; 0.2 g protein; 0.1 g fat (0 g sat.); 17 g carbo
vor boost.) Add salt and pepper to taste. (1.8 g fiber); 64 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. GF/V
3. Bring to a boil over high heat, then 5. Generously coat a 9- by 13-in. glass
simmer 5 to 10 minutes to blend fla- baking pan with 1 tsp. reserved melted
vors, whisking often. Season to taste butter. Pour stuffing into pan and VARIATIONS
with salt and pepper. drizzle with remaining melted butter. Cranberry and Blenheim Apricot Sauce
6. Cover with foil; bake 25 minutes. Re- To the saucepan of combined ingredients
MAKE AHEAD Up to 2 days, chilled.
move foil and bake until starting to above, add 4 oz. coarsely chopped dried
Reheat over medium heat, stirring.
brown on top, about 30 minutes more. Blenheim apricots (available at well-
PER 1⁄4-CUP SERVING 25 Cal., 2% (0.5 Cal.) from fat; stocked grocery stores and brfarms.com),
1 g protein; 0.1 g fat (0 g sat.); 4.5 g carbo (0.2 g MAKE AHEAD Up to 2 days, chilled.
6 each juniper berries and crushed all-
fiber); 63 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. LC/LS Reheat at 350°, covered, until hot (about
spice berries, 1/4 tsp. ground cloves,
30 minutes). Remove foil and cook 10
1 whole bay leaf, juice and zest of 1 large
more minutes for a crunchy top layer.
orange, and an additional 1/4 cup water.

CRISP-TOP PER SERVING 164 Cal., 23% (38 Cal.) from fat;
5.6 g protein; 4.3 g fat (2.6 g sat.); 25 g carbo
Simmer and season as directed above.

SOURDOUGH (1.41 g fiber); 363 mg sodium; 16 mg chol. LC


Cranberry Apple Sauce
To the saucepan of combined ingredients

STUFFING
SERVES 10 TO 12 / 1 1⁄ 2 HOURS
VARIATIONS
Crisp-Top Sourdough Stuffing with
Sausage and Greens
above, add 3 oz. coarsely chopped
dried apples, 3 crushed allspice berries,
1/4 tsp. ground cloves, 1/8 tsp. ground

Although it’s nearly as quick to make as Add 8 oz. sautéed crumbled Italian cardamom, 1 whole cinnamon stick, the
boxed stuffing, this homemade version— sausage and 1 lb. briefly sautéed fresh juice and zest of 1 medium lemon, and
soft in the middle and a little crunchy on spinach leaves to stuffing before baking. an additional 1/2 cup water. Simmer and
the top—is prettier and certainly tastier. season as directed above.
Scandinavian Stuffing
1 lb. loaf sourdough, at least 1 day old Replace sourdough with a 1-lb. loaf of
1⁄4 cup salted butter
2 cups chopped onion (1 large)
crusty rye bread, then add 1 cup chopped
fresh dill and 8 oz. diced smoked pork CREAMY CHUNKY
1 cup chopped celery (2 or 3 stalks)
1⁄4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
chops to stuffing before baking. Top with
2 tbsp. fresh dill sprigs before serving. MASHED POTATOES
1 tbsp. finely chopped fresh sage SERVES 10 TO 12 / 40 MINUTES
About 1⁄ 2 tsp. each kosher salt and pepper The secret to perfect mashed potatoes?
About 3 cups turkey broth, reduced-
sodium chicken broth, or mushroom
PURE and SIMPLE Knowing when to stop. Mash potatoes
with softened butter and warm milk
or other vegetable broth
CRANBERRY SAUCE until they’re creamy but still have some
chunks remaining. Thin-skinned pota-
1. Slice bread into 11/2-in.-thick slices MAKES 2 1⁄ 2 CUPS / 30 MINUTES toes, cut into pieces, cook quickly and
and tear into irregular 1- to 2-in. Nothing on your Thanksgiving menu is are easiest to mash.
pieces. Spread on a rimmed baking easier than cranberry sauce, whether
sheet and leave to dry at room temper- you keep it classic or spice it up. 4 lbs. thin-skinned yellow potatoes,
ature until needed (up to 2 days). For such as Yukon Gold, peeled, cut into
the best stuffing, the bread should 1 lb. fresh or frozen cranberries 1-in. chunks
be very dry. About 3⁄4 cup sugar 21⁄ 2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
2. Preheat oven to 350°. Melt butter in About 1⁄ 2 tsp. kosher salt 1 cup milk, warmed until steaming
a large frying pan over medium heat. 1 tbsp. orange zest 3 tbsp. salted butter, softened, divided

86 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


  

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Since 1935 we’ve been searching the world to
bring you buttery, piquant, luscious experiences from
around the globe. Our peppers, olives
and sauces give your creations the unique
flavors the world offers — so you can go Discover how to create this
appetizer board and more at
someplace new every night. mezzetta.com/sunset
creamy chunky
mashed
potatoes
«

roasted broccolini
with
almond parsley pesto
»
88 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET
1. Put potatoes in a large pot and add
enough cold water to barely cover. Stir ROASTED Add almonds and whirl until coarsely
chopped. Add 2 cups coarsely chopped
in 1 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil over high
BROCCOLINI flat-leaf parsley (leaves and tender
heat, covered. Reduce heat to medium stems), 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, and 1/2
and boil gently until potatoes are ten- SERVES 10 TO 12 / 35 MINUTES tsp. each kosher salt and red chile flakes;
der when pierced, about 15 minutes. Roasting, as opposed to steaming, deep- whirl until parsley is finely chopped. Add
Drain; return to pot, off the heat. 1/3 cup finely shredded parmesan cheese
ens the flavor of broccolini and makes it
2. Mash hot potatoes with a potato mash- delectably crisp—almost as though it’s and pulse to combine. • To serve, spread a
er until all large chunks are broken and been fried. layer of pesto on a platter. In a bowl, gen-
potatoes are fluffy. Add milk, 2 tbsp. tly toss roasted broccolini or broccoli
butter, and 11/2 tsp. salt; mash to blend. with more pesto and arrange on platter.
2 lbs. broccolini, stalks split lengthwise
Top with remaining 1 tbsp. butter. MAKE AHEAD Pesto, up to 1 day, chilled
if needed to make them all a similar
MAKE AHEAD Up to 1 day, chilled. width at base (tops can be wider) (color will darken if held longer).
Reheat in a microwave until hot (if 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
they’ve stiffened up, add enough milk
to make them creamy).
1⁄ 2 tsp. each kosher salt and pepper

FALL GREENS and


PER SERVING 138 Cal., 23% (31 Cal.) from fat; 3.4 g
protein; 3.5 g fat (2.2 g sat.); 25 g carbo (0 g fiber);
283 mg sodium; 9.7 mg chol. GF/LC/V
1. Preheat oven to 425°. Trim leaves from
broccolini if you like (for a tidier look).
Arrange broccolini in a single layer on
APPLE SALAD
SERVES 10 TO 12 / 1 HOUR
2 large rimmed baking sheets. A big, colorful salad is a welcome sight
VARIATIONS 2. Drizzle oil over broccolini, sprinkle at Thanksgiving. The rich cheese and
Herbed Greek Yogurt Mashed with salt and pepper, and turn until ginger–apple cider dressing unites the
Potatoes well coated. fruit with the greens. (For more on apple
Combine 1 cup whole-milk Greek yogurt 3. Roast broccolini, switching pan posi- cider vinegar, see page 96.)
with 1 cup of your favorite chopped tions and turning with tongs halfway
herbs (we like parsley, dill, and chives). through cooking, until florets are 1⁄4 cup apple cider vinegar
Mix into finished Creamy Chunky browned and crisp at the edges, 20 to 1 tbsp. finely shredded fresh ginger
Mashed Potatoes. Scatter an additional 25 minutes. 2 tsp. each honey and Dijon mustard
2 tbsp. herbs on top. PER SERVING 61 Cal., 49% (30 Cal.) from fat; 1 tsp. kosher salt
2.7 g protein; 3.4 g fat (0.5 g sat.); 5.4 g carbo 1⁄ 2 tsp. pepper

Roasted Cauliflower Mashed Potatoes (0.9 g fiber); 86 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. GF/LC/LS/VG 1⁄ 2 cup canola oil

Put oven rack in top third of oven and 10 oz. kale, torn into bite-size pieces
preheat to 450°. Place 12 cups cauli- (about 2 qts.)
flower florets, cut no larger than 1 in.,
VARIATIONS 1 qt. each butter lettuce and hearts of
Roasted Broccoli
on a rimmed baking sheet. Toss with romaine, torn into bite-size pieces,
Preheat oven to 425°. Cut 2 lbs. broccoli
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil and 1/2 tsp. loosely packed (1 head of each)
florets in half through the stem so
each kosher salt and pepper to coat 1 large Fuji apple, cut into thin wedges
they’ll lie flat. Divide broccoli between
evenly. Spread in a single layer and roast 2 oz. sharp white cheddar, shaved into 2-
2 large rimmed baking sheets. Drizzle
until cauliflower is very tender and to 3-in. pieces (use a vegetable peeler)
with 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil and
brown on the edges, turning occasional- 1/2 tsp. each kosher salt and pepper and
ly, about 25 minutes. Set aside about 1. Make dressing: Combine apple cider
1/3 cup of the best-looking florets, then
turn until well coated. Arrange florets in
a single layer, flat side down, and roast vinegar, ginger, honey, mustard, salt,
coarsely mash remaining florets on and pepper in a jar with a tight-fitting
until tender-crisp and beginning to
baking sheet with a potato masher. lid. Shake until honey dissolves and
brown on the bottom, 10 to 15 minutes.
In step 2, mix mashed florets and 1/2 cup ingredients are well combined. Add
warmed milk (not 1 cup as in the basic Roasted Broccolini or Broccoli with oil and shake vigorously to mix well.
recipe) into mashed potatoes. Add Almond Parsley Pesto 2. In a bowl, toss kale with 3 tbsp. vinai-
2 tbsp. unsalted butter, 11/2 tsp. salt, and Preheat oven to 350°. Spread 1/2 cup grette until leaves are coated evenly.
pepper to taste. Top with reserved cauli- whole raw almonds in a rimmed baking Cover and leave at room temperature,
flower and 1 tbsp. butter. pan; roast until fragrant and golden be- at least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours.
MAKE AHEAD Cauliflower, up to 3 days, neath the skin, about 10 minutes. In a 3. Just before serving, add butter lettuce,
chilled; reheat before using. food processor, finely chop 2 garlic cloves. romaine, and apple slices and toss

SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 89


pumpkin ice cream
gingersnap
pie
«
gently. Scatter with shaved cheese. 1⁄ 2cup whipping cream VARIATIONS
MAKE AHEAD Dressing, up to 2 weeks 1 tbsp. sugar Candied-Orange Walnut
1⁄4 cup finely chopped crystallized ginger
ahead, chilled; other ingredients can be Ice Cream Pie
prepped several hours ahead and chilled Use chocolate wafer cookies (such as
separately (toss apples or pears with a lit- 1. Preheat oven to 325.° Make crust: Nabisco Famous brand) instead of gin-
tle lemon juice to prevent browning). Butter and lightly flour a 9-in. sturdy gersnaps in step 1. In step 4, replace the
metal pie pan. In a food processor, pie mix with 1 cup diced candied orange
PER SERVING 139 Cal., 71% (99 Cal.) from fat; 2.8 g
protein; 11 g fat (1.8 g sat.); 8.8 g carbo (2 g fiber); whirl cookies with sugar into fine peel (see sunset.com for a recipe, or use
192 mg sodium; 5 mg chol. GF/LC/LS/V crumbs. Drizzle in butter and whirl, store-bought). Top pie with 1 cup Shiny
scraping bottom of bowl occasionally, Candied Walnuts: Whisk 1/2 cup con-
until crumbs come together. fectioners’ sugar, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp.
VARIATIONS 2. Press crumb mixture evenly and firm- vanilla extract with 1 tbsp. water. Turn
Fall Greens and Pear Salad ly over bottom, up sides, and slightly 1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts in sugar
Replace the apples with 2 large or 3 higher than rim of pie pan (don’t press mixture to coat thoroughly. Spread on
small sliced and cored pears, the kale over rim, or it will crumble when cut). a parchment-lined baking sheet and
with radicchio, and the cheddar cheese Press rim firmly together. Run a spoon bake at 300° for 12 minutes. Let cool.
with 6 oz. crumbled fresh goat cheese. around bottom inner edge of pie, Right before serving, sprinkle on pie.
scooping away extra crumbs; other-
Fall Greens and Orange Salad wise the crust tends to get too thick. Toasted Almond and Chocolate Toffee
Replace apples with segments from 3 3. Bake crust until firm and lightly toast- Ice Cream Pie
large oranges and sub in arugula for the ed, 12 to 14 minutes. Let cool. Use amaretti (Italian almond cookies)
kale. Replace cheddar with 1 cup shaved 4. Make filling: In a large bowl, mash ice instead of gingersnaps in step 1. In step
pecorino or parmesan cheese. cream to an even consistency with a 4, replace pie mix with 1 cup crushed
metal pastry blender or large fork. Stir chocolate almond toffee. When pie is
in pie mix, then freeze 15 minutes. frozen solid, spread with a thin layer

PUMPKIN 5. Carefully dollop ice cream into center


of cooled crust and spread outward,
of Easy Chocolate Ganache: In 20-
second bursts, microwave 11/2 cups semi-

ICE CREAM not quite but almost to edge (the ice


cream will naturally settle outward to
sweet chocolate chips with 1 tbsp. room-
temperature salted butter, stirring after

GINGERSNAP PIE
MAKES ONE 9-IN. PIE (SERVING 9 TO 12)
fill the crust). With a small metal spat-
ula, swirl the top into waves if you like.
Slide into freezer, making sure pie is
each burst, until mostly melted, about
1 minute. Let sit until melted, then
whisk in 2 tbsp. whipping cream. Let
1 3 ⁄4 HOURS, PLUS TIME TO FREEZE level; otherwise it will freeze lopsided. cool. Top ganache-covered pie with
An ice cream pie for Thanksgiving may Freeze at least 4 hours and up to 1 week toasted sliced almonds.
sound almost revolutionary, but it delivers (cover if more than 4 hours).
classic flavors and convenience. Made 6. Up to 2 hours before serving, whip
ahead and frozen, it doesn’t require valu- Wine picks
cream with sugar into soft peaks. Chill
able oven or counter space. Plus, you can With the earthy, spicy, herbal challenge
until ready to use.
vary the formula pretty much however that is the typical Thanksgiving dinner,
7. A few minutes before serving, take pie
you like, with different cookies, ice cream our go-to red is a West Coast Pinot Noir;
out of freezer to soften. Cut into slices
flavors, and toppings. try Willamette Valley Vineyards 2012
and top each with whipped cream and
“Elton” Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills,
a big pinch of crystallized ginger.
OR; $55). While Chardonnay isn’t our
COOKIE CRUST MAKE AHEAD Pie, up to 1 week, cov- usual choice for the holiday, this menu
Butter and flour for pan ered with plastic wrap and frozen. pairs well with a balanced Chard such
7 oz. gingersnaps Whipped cream, up to 2 hours. as Domaine Drouhin 2014 “Arthur”
1 tbsp. sugar
*Or use 1 cup canned puréed pumpkin Chardonnay (Dundee Hills, OR; $23).
4 tbsp. salted butter, melted
mixed with 1/2 tsp. each ground cinna-
mon, allspice, and ginger, plus
PIE FILLING & TOPPING
1⁄4 tsp. each cloves and nutmeg. Cook with Cozi
4 cups packed vanilla-bean ice cream (bear Get these recipes—and
in mind that airy ice cream will collapse PER SERVING 384 Cal., 50% (193 Cal.) from fat; one-tap shopping lists—
4.8 g protein; 22 g fat (13 g sat.); 43 g carbo (2.2 g in the palm of your
more, so buy a little extra) hand with Cozi, a free family-organizer app
fiber); 240 mg sodium; 95 mg chol. LS/V
1 cup canned pumpkin-pie mix* for iPhone, iPad & Android: sunset.com/cozi.

SUNSET ❖ NOVEMBER 2016 91


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Food

THE
BOULEVARDIER
NEGRONI

MR. BURNS
BROWN LIQUOR
FRIDAYS
Make over your weekend cocktails
with the West’s newest and tastiest
craft whiskeys. By Sara Schneider
FOOD STYLIST: JEFFREY LARSEN; PROP STYLIST: EMMA STAR JENSEN. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT:
POLARA STUDIO, STAR CHEFS/WOODINVILLE WHISKEY CO., KATHIE STATLER, LAUREL DAILEY

MALT WHISKEY
FIZZ

MAPLE
OLD-FASHIONED

Photograph by J E F F E RY C R O S S
A DRINKING TRADITION was born

DISTILLERS & THEIR SHOWCASE OUR BOTTLE


at Sunset at the end of a long
week several years ago. Saturat-
ed by wine, some of my tasting
colleagues decided to shift gears COCKTAILS PICKS
to slide into the weekend. Brown Greenbar Slow
liquor was called for—neat, Hand Six Woods
malt cask whiskey
over ice, and in ever more cre- ($38). Spicy and
ative (okay, wild) cocktails. We buttery; complex
were a bit ahead of the curve in wood flavors and
Scotch-like smoke.
calling for local ingredients; at Lance Winters Mark Nesheim greenbar.biz.
the time, the West’s small craft ST. GEORGE SPIRITS , J.P. TRODDEN DISTILLING,
distillers were focusing on vod- ALAMEDA, CA WOODINVILLE, WA House Spirits
Westward Oregon
ka and gin. Those that had whis- MR. BURNS MAPLE OLD-FASHIONED straight malt whis-
key to offer were mostly starting In a mixing glass, combine Fill a lowball glass with ice. key ($50 ). Smooth
with bulk product from the 2 oz. St. George Baller single Add 2 oz. J.P. Trodden small- and perfumed with
malt whiskey, 1/2 oz. dry ver- batch bourbon, 1/2 oz. maple lavender, citrus,
South, then finishing it to their mouth, such as Dolin Blanc, syrup, such as J.P. Trodden and spice. west
liking in barrels. 1/4 oz. Bénédictine, and barrel-aged maple syrup, 1 oz. wardwhiskey.com.
Times have changed! Whiskey 2 drops Angostura bitters. S. Pellegrino sparkling water,
Add ice and stir until cold. and 3 drops orange bitters; J.P. Trodden small-
is the newest infatuation of the Strain into a coupe. Garnish stir to blend. Garnish with an batch bourbon
West’s master distillers—made with an orange twist. orange twist*. ($62). Caramel,
from local grain (corn, wheat, *Peel orange twist over the glass subtle oak,
“Distillation is the to capture the natural oils. and spice, with
barley, rye) and fine-tuned in an floral hints.
closest thing I’ve
array of styles. The term “whis- jptrodden.com.
found to immortality.
key” is the umbrella moniker for
My whiskey is a time St. George Baller
this whole family of spirits. The
capsule I can leave for single malt whis-
best-known American version is key ($65). Citrus,
others to experience smoke, caramel,
bourbon, most closely associated
after I’m gone. There’s and vanilla in rich
with Kentucky. But no rule says layers. stgeorge
an irresistible draw Orlin Sorensen and
that bourbon must come from spirits.com.
to that.” Brett Carlile
the South. In broad strokes,
WOODINVILLE WHISKEY Spirit Works
bourbon only has to be made in CO., WOODINVILLE, WA straight wheat
the United States, from at least whiskey ($65) .
51 percent corn, and aged in THE BOULEVARDIER NEGRONI Fennel, anise, cit-
In a mixing glass, combine rus, tobacco, and
charred new oak barrels. Be- 11/2 oz. Woodinville Whiskey smooth butter-
yond bourbon, some distillers . Co. straight bourbon whiskey, scotch. spiritworks
are taking a page from Scotland, 1 oz. sweet red vermouth, distillery.com.
Christian Krogstad 1/2 oz. Campari, and ice; stir
with single malts from barley; a HOUSE SPIRITS until cold. Strain over ice in Woodinville Whis-
few are even introducing peat DISTILLERY, PORTLAND a lowball glass. Garnish with key Co. straight
into the picture. an orange twist and a mara- bourbon whiskey
MALT WHISKEY FIZZ schino cherry. ($55). Caramel
A series of tastings here in the In a shaker, combine 2 oz. and spice, with
office excited our brown liquor House Spirits Westward Ore- “Whiskey has chocolate and love-
gon straight malt whiskey, ly florals. woodin
faction. Their conclusion: The 1 oz. Cointreau, 1 oz. lemon substance. It has
villewhiskeyco.com.
West’s master distillers are juice, 1/2 oz. simple syrup, and roots. And a properly
1/2 oz. egg whites*, then shake
showing talent next to none distilled and aged Wyoming small-
vigorously. Add ice and shake
(move over, Kentucky!). We again. Pour into a highball bourbon is full of batch bourbon
whiskey ($40).
tapped some of our favorites for glass and top with a splash character and depth. Gentle caramel,
their thoughts—and cocktails of club soda. Garnish with As the saying goes, with spice and
4 drops Angostura bitters. peppery notes.
that showcase their whiskeys,
*To make egg whites easier to
‘All bourbon is
wyomingwhiskey.
for a month of West Coast brown measure, whip with a fork or whiskey, but not all com.
liquor Fridays. purchase them in a carton. whiskey is bourbon.’ ”

94 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET


#THEREISAPLACE
With BOULDERS BIGGER
THAN bUILDINGS

UTAH’S ST. GEORGE 


ZION NATIONAL PARK
Now is the season to get
out and play. The weather
is perfect with brisk
mornings and warm, sunny
afternoons. Kids are back
in school - leaving the
playground for the adults.
Plenty of activities for the
adrenaline junkie to the
faint of heart. Hike, bike,
golf, ATV, jeep. Or just
simply relax at a fabulous
spa!

And getting here is easy.


St. George has daily flights
with “no wait security”!
Driving? Just two hours
north of Las Vegas on I-15.

However you arrive, this


adventure hotspot won’t
disappoint.

VisitStGeorge.com
Food & Drink

In the SUNSET KITCHEN TIPS FROM


OUR TEAM

E D I TOR S ’ P IC KS

You deserve a new apron


Hosting friends and family for the holidays is the perfect excuse to
trade in your well-worn apron for something that’s more ready for
prime time. These denim ones, all made in the West, are sturdy
enough for, say, grilling a turkey (see page 83), yet stylish enough to
segue from kitchen to dining room.

IN SEASON
C OOKBOOK OF
Sage advice THE MONTH

Although sage is a natural


THE SLICE
IS RIGHT
in savory stuffing, the aro-
matic herb is unexpectedly
great with fruit too. Try a
If there’s such a thing
teaspoon of it chopped and as a pie guru, it’s
sprinkled over an apple tart Kate McDermott,
or folded into sautéed pears who has taught thou-
sands of students at
as a crostini topping. her legendary Pie
Camps in Port Ange-
les, Washington.
Here are some of the
best tips from her
new book, Art of the
Pie (The Countryman
Press ; $35), for mas-
tering—and reinvent-
ing—holiday classics.

Apple Precook the


filling to prevent a
big slump from occur-
ring between the fruit
and the crust as the
pie bakes.

Pecan For a flavor


twist, fold chocolate

FOOD STYLING: JEFFREY LARSEN; PROP STYLING: EMMA STAR JENSEN


KEY INGREDIENT chips into the filling

PRIMO VINEGAR
and serve with
whipped cream fla-
vored with rum or
As we fine-tuned the recipe bourbon.
for our Thanksgiving salad Clockwise from top left: The streamlined Porto Alegre apron from
(page 90), we discovered GDS Cloth Goods in Oakland features large in-seam pockets ($104; Pumpkin Baking
that upgrading to Katz Gra- gdsclothgoods.com). Raw Materials Designs near Seattle makes its a pumpkin pie to per-
venstein apple cider vinegar Demi-Chef apron—shown in Railroad Stripe—with extra-long waist fection is all about
takes a dressing from perfect- straps and generous three-section pockets ($59; rawmaterialsdesign. timing. You’ll know
ly fine to phenomenal. Made com) . The Hatfield vintage blue denim apron from BlueCut in L.A. it’s done when you
entirely with Sonoma apples, sports a towel ring, a deep kangaroo pocket for recipes or a phone, shake it and there’s
it has a floral complexity that and a narrow pocket for thermometers ($87; bluecutaprons.com). L.A.- a slight jiggle in the
goes on and on. $12/375-ml. area Hedley & Bennett makes its Striped Bass apron with silky smooth middle about the size
bottle; katzfarm.com. Italian Berto denim ($95; hedleyandbennett.com). of a silver dollar.

96 NOVEMBER 2016 ❖ SUNSET Photographs by J E F F E RY C R O S S


Legal Notice

You may be entitled


to replacement solar panels
and/or a new inverter from a
BP Solar Settlement
3DUDXQDQRWL¿FDFLyQHQ(VSDxROOODPDU
RYLVLWDUQXHVWURZHEVLWHZZZ%36RODU6HWWOHPHQWFRP
A Settlement has been reached in a class action lawsuit
against BP Solar and Home Depot involving solar panels
manufactured between 1999 and 2007 with an S-type junction
box (“Class Panels”). You may be entitled to benefits from
a $45.33 million common fund or a separate, $20 million
claims-made settlement.
The lawsuit claims these panels are defective and prone to junction
box failures, which could cause burn marks at the junction box,
shattered glass, and be a potential fire hazard. BP and Home
Depot deny these claims.

Who’s Included? The Settlement includes anyone in the United


States who: (1) purchased certain BP solar panels for installation
on a property, or (2) currently owns a property on which these
panels are installed and, in either case, who still owns some or all
of the BP solar panels.
The panels were sold through various distributors and retailers,
including but not limited to Solar Depot and Home Depot.
What does the Settlement provide? Subject to Court approval,
a $45.33 million fund will be created to pay for the removal and
replacement of a subset of Class Panels (Category 1), and to pay
administration, attorneys’ fees and costs, and Class Representative
awards. A separate $20 million fund will be established for the
remaining Class Panels (Category 2), which have a lower failure
rate. Category 2 claimants will be entitled to a free visual inspection
to identify any failed panels, replacement of failed panels,
replacement of all panels if over 20% of panels have failed and, if not
all panels are replaced, a free inverter with arc fault detection. Non-
residential class members with 400 or more Class Panels will be
invited to commercial negotiations. Complete details are found on
the website.
How can I receive benefits? You must file a claim to receive
benefits. You can file a claim online at www.BPSolarSettlement.com
or call 1-844-360-2767. Category 1 claims will be paid until the
Fund is spent. Category 2 claims will last for three years after it
starts or until the $20 million fund is spent.
What are my rights? If you want to keep your right to sue
the Defendants yourself, you must exclude yourself from the
Settlement Class by November 28, 2016. If you exclude yourself
you will not receive benefits from the Settlement. If you stay in the
Settlement Class, you may object to the Settlement by November
28, 2016. If you do nothing, you will not receive any benefits but
you will still be bound by the Court’s decisions.
The Court will hold a hearing on December 22, 2016 at
3:00 p.m. PST to consider whether to approve the Settlement
and a request for attorneys’ fees of up to $11 million, plus
reimbursement of attorneys’ costs and expenses up to $600,000.
The motion for attorneys’ fees and costs and class representative
service awards will be posted on the website after they are filed.
You or your own lawyer may appear at the hearing at your own
expense. This is only a summary, so please visit the website for
complete information.

1-844-360-2767
www.BPSolarSettlement.com
A SUNSET ADVERTISING PROMOTION

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UP NEXT

Win this set!


Next month’s gift guide is packed with stocking-
stuffers and splurges for gardeners, cooks, explorers,
and more—but here’s a present just for you.
We’ve partnered with ATGStores.com to give away
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SUNSET (ISSN 0039-5404) is published monthly in regional and special editions by Sunset Publishing Corporation, 55 Harrison St., Ste. 200, Oakland, CA 94607. Periodicals postage paid at Oakland, CA, and at addi-
tional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2.) Nonpostal and military facilities: Send address corrections to Sunset Magazine, P.O. Box 62120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120. Vol. 237,
No. 5. Printed in U.S.A. Copyright © 2016 Sunset Publishing Corporation. All rights reserved. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations. Sunset, The Magazine of Western Living, The Pacific Monthly, Sunset’s Kitchen Cabinet,
The Changing Western Home, and Chefs of the West are registered trademarks of Sunset Publishing Corporation. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited submissions. Manuscripts, photographs, and other material
submitted to 55 Harrison St., Ste. 200, Oakland, CA 94607 can be acknowledged or returned only if accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. Customer service and subscriptions: Write to Sunset Magazine
at P.O. Box 62120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120 or call (800) 777-0117. U.S. subscriptions: $24 for one year.
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