Comfort and Mechanical Properties of

Polyester/Bamboo and Polyester/Cotton Blended

Knitted Fabric
Uzair Hussain, Farhad Bin Younis, Faisal Usman, Tanveer Hussain, Faheem Ahmed

National Textile University, Yarn Manufacturing, Faisalabad, Punjab PAKISTAN

Correspondence to:
Uzair Hussain email: [email protected]

ABSTRACT
The mechanical and comfort properties of Knitting is a process of making a fabric by forming
polyester/bamboo and polyester/cotton knitted fabrics loops. A knitted fabric is characterized by courses
were studied. Four different ratios, P/B 65/35, P/B and whales that run vertically and horizontally
50/50, P/B 35/65, P/B 20/80, P/C 65/35, P/C 50/50, respectively. Knitting has many advantages because
P/C 35/65, P/C 20/80 of both blends were produced of its economical and relatively fast process together
by mixing at the blow room stage. Then yarns of with comfort aspects of the end product. Knitted
equal count Ne 20 were made on a ring spinning apparel is stretchable, permeable, and moisture
machine, and a knitted fabric was produced on a absorbent which renders some feasible performance
single jersey weft knitting machine. properties. Tight T-shirts, summer vests, and hosiery
garments like socks and gloves all are the products of
It was observed that by increasing bamboo and cotton knitting due their comfort and performance attributes.
fiber content in the blends, yarn breaking force and
tenacity were decreased. Bursting strength, bending Bamboo fiber is a regenerated cellulosic fiber
rigidity, and thermal resistance of the blended fabrics produced from bamboo. Starchy pulp is produced
decreased by increasing bamboo and cotton fiber from bamboo stems and leaves through a process of
content in the blends, while air permeability and alkaline hydrolysis and multi-phase bleaching.
moisture management capability was found to Further chemical processes produce bamboo fiber.
increase with the increase in bamboo and cotton fiber Repeated technological analysis has proved that this
content. No antimicrobial activity was shown by any kind of fiber has a thinness degree and whiteness
of the P/B blended fabric, but to some extent, 100% degree close to normal finely bleached viscose and
bamboo fiber showed antibacterial activity against has strong durability, stability, and tenacity [1]. Most
gram negative bacteria while against gram positive of the bamboo used to make bamboo fiber and
bacteria, no activity was observed. bamboo clothing is grown in China by Hebei Jigao
Chemical Fiber Company; they hold the patent on the
Keywords: bamboo, thermal resistance, moisture process for turning bamboo into fiber. This facility
management, bursting strength produces all of the bamboo viscose on the market.
The bamboo is certified organic by OCIA (The
INTRODUCTION Organic Crop Improvement Association) [2]
Due to changes in technological trends and rapid Following are its prominent features:
pace in the area of textiles, there is significant change
in taste regarding satisfaction. Consumers today, not • Softer than cotton, with a texture similar to a
only desire aesthetic appeal of apparel, but also its blend of cashmere and silk.
comfort and performance attributes. In fact these two • Because the cross-section of the fiber is filled
attributes together with protection ability of the end with various micro-gaps and micro-holes, it has
product play a prominent role when selecting the much better moisture absorption and ventilation.
desired product. Comfort aspect has become the need Moisture absorbency is twice than that of cotton
of almost every individual. with extraordinary soil release.
• Natural antibacterial elements (bio-agent
“bamboo kun”) in bamboo fiber keep bacteria
away from bamboo fabrics.

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Volume 10, Issue 2 – 2015
• Garments of bamboo fiber can absorb and was Pakistani cotton. Eight plain knitted (single-
evaporate human sweat in a split second just like jersey) fabrics of 47 courses/inch and 35 wales/inch
breathing. Such a garment makes people feel with a stitch length of 4.92 mm were produced using
extremely cool and comfortable and never sticks ring spun blended yarns of P/B 65/35, P/B 50/50, P/B
to skin even in hot summer. 35/65, P/B 20/80, P/C 65/35, P/C 50/50, P/C 35/65,
• 100% bamboo yarns show great elasticity, nearly P/C 20/80, polyester/bamboo and polyester/cotton
20%. Even in 100% bamboo woven fabrics, a respectively. The GSM of the fabrics was found to be
remarkable elasticity can be obtained wherein the 235 (gm. /m2). Polyester and bamboo fibers of 1
use of elastomeric fibers like elastomers may be denier and 1.2 denier and 38 mm staple length were
eliminated. used for the study, while cotton used had Micronaire
• Bamboo fabrics need less dyestuff than cotton, value of 4.9 and staple length of 27 mm. Yarns of
modal, or viscose. It seems that the absorption of equal linear density 29.525 tex (Ne 20) nominal
dyestuffs is remarkably better. Bamboo absorbs count were produced on a conventional ring spinning
the dyestuffs faster and shows the colors better. frame, RY-5 from Toyoda with a spindle speed of
• Anti-ultraviolet nature of bamboo fiber makes it 16,400 rpm and a twist multiplier of 3.5. Blended
it suitable for summer clothing, especially for the yarns were then knitted on a single jersey weft
protection of pregnant ladies and children from knitting (Fukuhara Japan) machine with a 20 mm
the effect of ultraviolet radiation. gauge, 2.5” diameter and 90 feeders.
• Products of bamboo fiber are eco-friendly and
bio-degradable [1]. Knitted fabrics were then bleached, in a single bath
with 5 g/l NaOH, 8 g/l H2O2, 1 g/l wetting agent and
Although there are some drawbacks of bamboo, even o
2 g/l stabilizer at 90 C for one hour.
then it has many applications like:
• Intimate apparel, including sweaters, bath-suits, After processing, the samples were tested for
underwear, tight t-shirt, and socks. bursting strength according to standard test method
• Due to its anti-bacterial nature, nonwoven fabric for bursting strength ASTM D 3787-07
has wide prospects in the field of hygiene
materials such as sanitary napkins, masks,
The liquid moisture management properties of a
mattress, and food packing bags.
textile material were evaluated by AATCC TM 195-
• Sanitary materials include bandages, masks, 2009 using moisture management tester M-290 SDL
surgical clothes, and nurse wear. It has Atlas, UK.
incomparably wide foreground on application in
sanitary material such as sanitary towels, gauze
masks, absorbent pads, and food packing. Air permeability of the fabric was measured by using
standard test method for air permeability of Textile
• Decorating items such as curtains, television
fabrics ASTM D737 – 04 (2008)
covers, wallpaper, and sofa slipcovers.
• Bathroom products such as towels and bath robes
[1]. The stiffness of the fabric was measured using
standard test method for stiffness of fabrics B.S.
3356-1961
Although natural fibers entail comfort properties to
the users of textile apparel, the demands have been
changed with rising technological trends and Antibacterial characteristic of the samples was
standards of living. Users of textile materials not only evaluated using standard test method for testing of
desire comfort, but aesthetic and functional properties antibacterial activity and efficacy on textile products
as well. Also the product should be cost effective in JIS L 1902-2008.Thermal resistance of the samples
order to meet the requirements of customers. The was found using the sweating guarded hotplate
objective of this study was to manufacture a product standard test method for testing ISO 11092- 1993,
that will not only be superior in comfort and ASTM F1868, and GB 11048.
performance, but also cost effective.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
MATERIALS AND METHODS Fiber and Yarn Results
For this study bamboo fiber was imported from Properties of cotton, polyester, and bamboo fiber
Hebei Jigao Chemical Fiber Company Limited, used are shown in the Table I and Table II
China and polyester fibers from Ibrahim Fibers respectively.
Faisalabad, Pakistan. Also cotton used for the study

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Volume 10, Issue 2 – 2015
 TABLE I. Properties of cotton fiber used. TABLE III. Yarn Results.

Fiber Parameters Units Cotton

Tenacity
Blend Ratio U% IPI B-Force (cN)
Micronaire μg/inch 4.9 (cN/Tex)

Strength g/tex 28.8 P/C 65/35 10.03 135.5 756.9 25.63

Length mm 27 P/C 50/50 11.12 282.5 578.9 19.6

Uniformity % 82 P/C 35/65 11.57 341 509.84 17.27

P/C 20/80 11.56 330 488.3 16.54
Short Fiber Index(SFI) % 8.2
P/B 65/35 8.51 9.5 733.74 24.85
Elongation % 5.1
P/B 50/50 8.82 12 673 22.79
Rd value - 71.7
P/B 35/65 9.37 12.5 634.4 21.48
+b value - 9.7 P/B 20/80 10.02 16 565.2 19.14

TABLE II. Properties of polyester and bamboo fibers used.

Breaking Force and Tenacity
Fiber Table III shows the results of breaking force and
Unit Polyester Bamboo tenacity of different ratios. Both breaking force and
Parameters
Linear density Denier (d) 1 1.2 tenacity decrease with increase in proportion of
Cut length mm 38 38
cotton and bamboo in P/C and P/B blends
respectively. This may be due to the low tenacity
Tenacity g/d 7 2.27 (Table I and Table II) and weak cohesion of cotton
Elongation % 22 20.5 and bamboo fibers in the resultant yarn because fiber
No. of crimps - 12 - strength plays a vital role in the strength of yarn.
Moisture regain % 0.4 11.25
Results of breaking force and tenacity are shown in
Figure 1 and Figure 2 respectively.
Color - Semi dull Semi dull

U% and IPI
The results regarding U% and imperfections were
found as expected. U% and imperfection values of
polyester, cotton blended yarns were found to
increase with increase in proportion of cotton in the
blend. The presence of short fiber content in the
cotton leads to floating fibers in the drafting zone
which causes thick, thin places in the drafted strand
as the shorter fibers are not bound in the final strand
and come out of the yarn salvage creating more
imperfections and more unevenness in the yarn. As
far as polyester, bamboo blended yarns are FIGURE 1. Breaking force different blended yarns.
concerned, there is less unevenness and imperfections
as compared to P/C blended yarns. But there is
increase in unevenness and imperfections with
increase in bamboo percentage in the blend.

Results of yarns blended are shown in Table III.

FIGURE 2. Tenacity of different blended yarns.

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Volume 10, Issue 2 – 2015
Figure 3 shows the comparison of average tenacity Also the tenacity of bamboo fiber is less than
between P/B and P/C blended yarns. It is clear from polyester fiber which further ads to the diminishing
the figure that average tenacity of P/B blend is higher bursting strength.
than that of P/C blend. Because P/C lends have more
imperfections that leads to less overall tenacity. The lower bursting strength of cotton rich P/C fabric
can be attributed to low elongation of cotton fiber
than polyester as shown in (Table I) that result in low
elongation in yarn. Low tenacity of cotton fiber also
contributes to the results achieved. Comparison of
bursting strengths is also shown in Figure 4.

Bursting Strength (kPa)

800

600
FIGURE 3. Average Tenacity of different blended yarns.

400
Fabric Results and Analysis
Bursting Strength
Bursting strength is an important property regarding 200
functional behavior of knitted apparel. Knitted gloves
and socks should have considerable bursting strength
in order to provide sufficient resistance to bursting.
Results of bursting strength tests are shown in Table FIGURE 4. Bursting Strength of P/B and P/C blended fabrics.
IV.
TABLE IV. Bursting strength of P/B and P/C knitted fabrics.

Bursting Strength (kPa)

Blend Ratio Mean Values
P/C 65/35 610
P/C 50/50 553.5
P/C 35/65 497
P/C 20/80 454
P/B 65/35 590
P/B 50/50 552 FIGURE 5. Average Bursting Strength of P/B and P/C blended
fabrics.
P/B 35/65 496.5
P/B 20/80 451.5 Figure 5 shows that overall bursting strength of
P/C blend is higher than P/B blend due to higher
Bursting strength of the blended fabrics was tenacity of cotton fiber as compared to bamboo
decreased by increasing bamboo fiber content in P/B fiber.
blended fabric and cotton in P/C blended fabric.
Air Permeability
These results can be attributed to low elongation at The air permeability of a fabric is a measure of how
break of bamboo fiber as compared to polyester fiber well it allows the air passage through the fabric. Air
[3]. As shown in (Table II) elongation% of polyester permeability is defined as the volume of air in
fiber is 22% which is more than bamboo fiber, millilitres which is passed in one second through 100
resulting in less elongation of yarn and hence 2
mm of the fabric at a different pressure.
bursting strength of bamboo rich fabric deceased.

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Volume 10, Issue 2 – 2015
It is an important property of knitted materials that
allows transport of moisture from the fabric and flow
of fresh air to the human skin. Air permeability
values of P/B and P/C knitted fabrics are listed in
Table V.

TABLE V. Air Permeability Results.

Air Permeability (mm/s)

FIGURE 7. Average Air Permeability of P/B and P/C blended
Blend Ratio Mean Value fabrics.
P/C 65/35 400.5601
Figure 7 shows, that average air permeability of
P/C 50/50 413.2601 P/C blend is more than P/B blend because of micro
P/C 35/65 420.2601 gaps in the structure of cotton fiber it offers less air
P/C 20/80 433.4 resistance.
P/B 65/35 370.5
Thermal Resistance
P/B 50/50 390.4101
Thermal resistance is measure of the amount of
P/B 35/65 410.4101 resistance offered by the knitted material to the flow
P/B 20/80 413.7 of heat from skin to the external environment. The
results of thermal resistance of different blend ratios
It is clear from above values that, by increasing are shown in the Table VI.
bamboo fiber content and cotton fiber content in the
TABLE VI. Thermal Resistance of P/B and P/C fabrics.
blend, air permeability were increased. It has been
found in the literature that with the increase in
Thermal Resistance
bamboo fiber content in the blend, thickness and Sr. No.
Blend Ratio Rct Value
weight of the fabric tends to decrease [4]. Due to
which air permeability of the bamboo rich fabric will 1 P/C 65/35 0.023
increase. As bamboo rich fabric becomes thinner and 2 P/C 50/50 0.0208
light weight, so air permeability is increased due to 3 P/C 35/65 0.0198
less resistance to air flow. The air permeability 4 P/C 20/80 0.018
results are shown in the Figure 6. 5 P/B 65/35 0.023
6 P/B 50/50 0.021
Air Permeability (mm/s)
7 P/B 35/65 0.019

450 8 P/B 20/80 0.016

400
350 From the values of thermal resistance it is clear that
300 by increasing bamboo fiber content in the fabric,
thermal resistance is decreased. Thermal resistance is
a function of thickness and thermal conductivity of
the fabric [4]. As observed earlier with an increase in
bamboo fiber proportion, the thickness of fabric is
decreased which results in decreased thermal
FIGURE 6. Air Permeability of P/B and P/C blended fabrics. resistance of bamboo rich fabrics. This can also be
attributed to the low diameter of bamboo fiber as
Air permeability was also increased by increasing compared to polyester fiber, which causes
cotton fiber content in the P/C blended fabric. compression of layers reducing fabric thickness.

This is due to the reason that with an increase in Thermal resistance of P/C blended fabrics was also
polyester fiber content in the fabric, yarn diameter is reduced by an increase in the content of cotton in the
increased [5] and as a result, inter yarn spacing is fabric blend. This can be explained in the way that,
reduced creating hindrance for the air flow through an increase in polyester content in the blend increases
the fabric. fabric thickness causing an increase in thermal

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Volume 10, Issue 2 – 2015
resistance. Also convolutions in cotton increase TABLE VII. OMMC values of P/B and P/C blend ratios.
trapped air. The decrease in thermal resistance or
insulation due to increase in cotton content is due to Sr. No. Blend Ratio OMMC
the result of more moisture content of cotton fiber 1 P/B 65/35 0.3293
[5]. Thermal resistance of different blends is shown
2 P/B 50/50 0.3972
in Figure 8.
3 P/B 35/65 0.3978
4 P/B 20/80 0.4061
5 P/C 65/35 0.4329
6 P/C 50/50 0.449
7 P/C 35/65 0.4592
8 P/C 20/80 0.4625

Table VII shows that moisture absorption increases

with an increase in bamboo and cotton fiber content
in the blends.

FIGURE 8. Thermal resistance of P/B and P/C blended fabrics. It was observed before that vapor permeability and
absorbency of textile material increases with an
increase in the hydrophilic proportion in the
resultant material, because increasing hygroscopic
proportion enhances drying of sweat close to the
skin. The same is the case with P/B and P/C blends:
increasing hygroscopic content in the blend
increases moisture absorption and results faster
drying of sweat from the skin [6].

Too much moisture absorption can also lead to

problems, because a material that absorbs more
FIGURE 9. Average Thermal Resistance of P/B and P/C blended moisture can cause stickiness and dampness, due to
fabrics.
less moisture spreading over the fabric surface. This
may be reason that OMMC of P/C blended fabric is
Figure 9 clearly demonstrates that overall thermal relatively higher than P/B blended fabrics. Results
resistance of P/C blend is higher than P/B blended of OMMC are shown in the Figure 10.
fabric as P/C blend offers more air permeability, so
resistance to heat is increased because of more
trapped air.

Moisture Management Capability

Moisture management is an essential feature of a
textile material regarding its comfort appeal.
Blending also has a vital role in moisture related
capability of a textile material.

Moisture management values of different blend

ratios are shown in the Table VII.
FIGURE 10. Comparisons of OMMC of blended fabrics.

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Volume 10, Issue 2 – 2015
FIGURE 11. Comparisons of average OMMC of blended fabrics.
FIGURE 12. Bending length of fabric samples.

Figure 11 shows that average OMMC of P/C Blends

is higher than P/B blend as described before.

Bending Length
It is a property of a textile material determined by its
resistance to bending in further processing and use. It
is an important property regarding aesthetic and
drape ability of textile materials. Bending Length
results are shown in the Table VIII.

TABLE VIII. Bending Length of fabrics.

FIGURE 13. Average Bending length of fabric samples.

Sr. No. Blend Ratio Bending Rigidity Figure 13 depicts that overall bending length of P/C
1 P/C 65/35 1.55 blend is more than that of P/B blend as described
2 P/C 50/50 1.51
before that due to compression of layers by
3 P/C 35/65 1.45
4 P/C 20/80 1.42
increasing bamboo proportion, fabric becomes
5 P/B 65/35 1.13 thinner so bending rigidity decreases.
6 P/B 50/50 1.06
7 P/B 35/65 1.05 Antimicrobial Activity
8 P/B 20/80 1.03 One of the most important characteristic of bamboo
fiber is its inherent antimicrobial efficacy. The most
Table VIII shows that there is a decrease in the significant components in the bamboo’s chemical
bending length of fabric with an increase in bamboo constitution are those providing its extraordinary
and cotton fiber content in the P/B and P/C blended fungal and bacterial resistance. The one responsible
fabrics. for antibacterial properties is 2.6-bimethoxy-p-
benzoquinone, called ‘Bambookun’. The highly
As observed before there is a decrease in the distinctive fungal resistance occurs due to a protein –
thickness of bamboo rich fabric due to which it offers dendrocin.
less resistance to bending. This may also be attributed
to the larger diameter of polyester fiber which Antimicrobial activity of P/B blended fabric samples
increases diameter of the yarn and increases the and 100% bamboo fiber was investigated using
bending length of polyester rich fabric. qualitative analysis.

The same is the case with P/C blended fabric. An Antibacterial characteristic of the samples was
increase in cotton proportion reduces bending length. evaluated using the standard test method for testing
Here also by increasing cotton content, the diameter of antibacterial activity and efficacy on textile
of yarn decreases and hence fabric stiffness in the end products: JIS L 1902-2008 against Staphylococcus
decreases. Also weak cohesion of fibers in cotton rich aureus and Escherichia coli, gram positive and gram
fabric causes the fabric to bend more easily. negative bacteria, respectively.
Comparison of bending length of different blends is
shown in the Figure 12.

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Volume 10, Issue 2 – 2015
The 100% bamboo fiber test was performed using • Air permeability of P/B and P/C blended fabric
absorbency method. increases by increasing bamboo and cotton fiber
content in the blend, while thermal resistance of
Findings of the test are as follows: the fabric decreases with an increase in bamboo
and cotton fiber content in the blends.
• As far as P/B blended samples are concerned, no • Moisture management capability of the P/B and
antibacterial activity was shown by any of the P/C blended fabrics was found to increase with
samples, even most bamboo rich fabric sample an increase in the proportion of bamboo and
(P/B 20/80) did not show any antibacterial cotton fiber content respectively.
efficacy. • Enhanced air permeability and moisture
• Results of 100% bamboo fiber are shown in the management property of P/B and P/C blended
Table IX. fabrics entail excellent comfort properties and
fabric can be used as comfort apparel for summer.
TABLE IX. Results of antimicrobial activity. • Bending length of the blended fabrics was found
to decrease with an increase in bamboo and
Absorbency cotton fiber content providing another aspect to
Control Activity
variable (%) the aesthetic and drape ability of the fabric.
Culture Sample
• There was no antibacterial activity shown by any
E. coli 0.738 0.585 20.73 of the P/B blend against any of the bacteria. But
there was some sort of activity shown by 100%
S. aureus 0.969 0.953 1.6
bamboo fiber against gram negative bacteria
(Escherichia coli). These results show that the
Table XI shows that little (negligible) activity is bamboo fiber used here do not possess effective
shown by 100% bamboo fiber towards antimicrobial efficacy.
Staphylococcus (gram positive bacteria) while the
efficacy of 100% bamboo fiber towards Escherichia REFERENCES
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AUTHORS’ ADDRESSES
Uzair Hussain
Farhad Bin Younis
Faisal Usman
Tanveer Hussain
Faheem Ahmed
National Textile University
Yarn Manufacturing
Shiekhupura Road
Faisalabad, Punjab 35200
PAKISTAN

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Volume 10, Issue 2 – 2015