Italia! Magazine - October-November 2023 UK

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W E L C O M E T O I TA L I A !
Benvenuti... Welcome to the latest issue of

Italia! magazine, which comes to
you with a promise of autumn, and
a welcome drop in temperature
(at least where we are!). I’d like
to say thank you for the many
photos you’ve been emailing us
of your summer travels around
Italy. We’ve certainly enjoyed sharing your enthusiasm
for this beautiful country, and you can see some of
your images on page 14 in this issue.
With autumn nearly upon us, we’ve brought
together another inspiring collection of features to
help you plan your next adventure in Italy. If you’re off
to Rome, our new writer Elisa Colarossi invites you on
a guided tour of the city suburbs, to experience a real
slice of Roman life. From there to Tuscany, where a
band of producers are going back to the traditions
of the countryside, and on to Piedmont with a look
at the top 10 highlights of beautiful Le Langhe.
Bringing the flavours of Italy to your kitchen,
find out how to make malfatti (spinach and ricotta
dumplings) with our special masterclass, try polenta
four ways, and sample crisp white Lugana wines from
Lake Garda. There’s also a buyer’s guide to Italian herb
and vegetable seeds, news, reviews and much more.
ON THE
COVER
Traffic at the
Colosseum,
Rome
This image Public Domain, via Google Cultural Institute
Amanda Robinson Editor
PS. Our new 116-page Lakes & Islands Guide is now on

sale at www.italytravelandlife.com/specials (£11.99 incl.
p&p). Packed with inspiration, plan your next trip to these
Inset cover image © Getty Images
much-loved Italian destinations with our experts!

Cover image © Getty Images
NEW AUTUMN SALE OFFER!

Detail of Romulus and Whether you like to read a print copy of Italia! or prefer the on-the-go
Remus by Peter Paul convenience of a digital edition, we have the best deal for you this issue!
Rubens. More on p46 Turn to page 28 for details, and for the US, please turn to page 58.
THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS

Join us on FLEUR KINSON JENNY OLDAKER JOE GARTMAN
FACEBOOK, Our property expert Our regular news Our teller of travellers’
search for Italia! has Le Marche in correspondent takes a tales has uncovered
magazine her sights this look at the symbolism another gem for
issue. Greatly loved of the wolf and the us this issue. Read
Follow us by visitors and importance that it about Francesco
on TWITTER property-hunters holds in the Italian Morosini, one-time
at @ItaliaMag for its transport psyche. From Romulus Doge of Venice,
infrastructure, cleanliness and quality of and Remus to the present day, find out who is remembered, not for noble deeds
Find us on life, this prosperous, rural region remains more about this majestic creature as well and eminent leadership, but for a few
INSTAGRAM an excellent place to invest in an Italian as several other animals with historical odd personal quirks, and one tragic and
at @italia_magazine home. Turn to page 78 for more. significance. Find out more on page 22. infamous event. Find out more on page 37.
October/November 2023 ITALIA! 3

37
46
78
IN THIS ISSUE
October/November 2023
60 TRAVEL
22 48 HOURS IN SUBURBAN ROME
FOOD & DRINK
60 POMEGRANATES & ARTICHOKES
Revealing another side to the Eternal City, Iranian writer Saghar Setereh celebrates
Elisa Colarossi takes us on a guided tour the food of her adopted homeland.
around the treasures of Rome’s suburbs.
64 FOUR TAKES ON POLENTA
40 HEADING TO LE LANGHE Mario Matassa demonstrates how versatile
Kate Wickers heads for adventure in this ancient ingredient can be.
Le Langhe and picks out her highlights of
68 BUY ITALIA!
what to see and do here.
Italian herb and vegetable seeds.
CULTURE
30 BACK TO THE LAND
Amy McPherson meets a group of Tuscans
70 MALFATTI MASTERCLASS
Make these spinach and ricotta dumplings
with pasta master Mateo Zielonka.
8
who are creating a lifestyle and production
choice of returning to the basics.
37 FAST CULTURE
72 ANY TIME TREAT
Fennel-infused biscotti by Sabrina Gidda.
73 DRINK ITALIA!
73
The Captain-General’s Cat: Joe Gartman Lugana white wines for you to try.
on the mighty accomplishments, and
otherwise, of Doge Francesco Morosini.
LIVING
46 LEADERS OF THE PACK 78 LIVING IN LE MARCHE
The wolf is an iconic symbol of Italy. This prosperous, rural region remains
Jenny Oldaker goes on the trail of this an excellent place to buy a home in Italy,
elusive predator. says Fleur Kinson.
52 54 INTERVIEW: ALLISON ZURFLUH

We meet the artist and author and talk
to her about her work and life.
88 PROPERTY SHOWCASE
The latest house-buying opportunities.
4 ITALIA! October/November 2023

IN THIS ISSUE
p40 LE LANGHE
FORLÌ p90
TUSCANY p30 p78 LE MARCHE
ROME p22
GIBELLINA p20
MORE ITALIA! ON THE COVER

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14 READERS’ PHOTO COMPETITION customers, please see p58.)
Send us your travel photos and 52 SPEAK ITALIA!
win a bottle of premium In our regular bi-lingual
Villa Sandi prosecco! feature, Tom Alberto Bull p22
16 IN PRINT looks at how Italians are saving
The latest books for your money in the kitchen. p46 p59
literary delectation. 56 PAST ITALIA!
17 TOP 5 EVENTS In Italy, the olive harvest p30
Find out what’s going on in begins in October and
continues until January. p40
Italy this October and November.
20 VIEWPOINT 90 ITALIA! WOMEN
High in the Province of Trapani stands a Caterina Sforza, the ‘Tiger of Forlì’,
concrete labyrinth. was a Countess and a Lady, and a truly
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Our Autumn Sale brings you an exciting 91 NEXT TIME p78 p90
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This MONTH
News, events, the latest book releases, your travel photos –
we bring you the best of Italy in our latest issue round-up
News & Views

What’s been happening in Italy
p8
Readers’ Photos
Our pick of your Italian snaps
p14
In Print
The latest good reads
p16
What’s on in
October and November
The best events and festivals
p17
Top Picks
Shop Italian products
p19
Find out more

about Bologna
9 pages
of news,
and its porticoes
on page 8
views and
your
photos!

O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R I TA L I A !
THIS MONTH
News &Views
These images © Zermatt Bergbahnen
Living the high life

Visitors to the Alps can now travel between Switzerland
and Italy via cable car, thanks to a new crossing that travels
between the Matterhorn village of Zermatt in Switzerland
and Breuil-Cervinia in Italy. The new Matterhorn Alpine
Crossing, operated by Matterhorn Zermatt Bergbahnen,
is the highest-altitude border crossing in the Alps. The
route takes around 90 minutes to complete from one end
to the other, encompassing nine mountain stations along
the way, and you are surrounded by some of Europe’s most
spectacular mountain scenery throughout the trip. The
highest point comes at Switzerland’s Matterhorn Glacier
Paradise stop, which is the highest mountain station in
Europe, sitting at 3,821m above sea level. Travelling from
Switzerland to Italy, the next stop from these dizzy heights
is Testa Grigia, which is the Italian border crossing, at which
point it is possible for travellers to stop off and stand with
one foot in each country. For tickets, route details and
more, visit www.matterhornalpinecrossing.com
5 reasons to 2
Bologna has plenty to offer in the way
of pasta specialities. Tortellini stuffed
visit Bologna with ground meat and tortelloni stuffed

with ricotta and spinach both originated in
this city. If you prefer a plainer pasta, opt for
1
News & Views images © Getty unless otherwise stated
When you think of Bologna, the city’s delicious ‘tirata a mano’ – that’s
Bolognese sauce may spring to mind pasta stretched and rolled by hand.
– but you won’t ever find it teamed
with spaghetti in this city. This is a common
misconception that spread across Europe
and the United States when the ragù left
its Bolognese home. The true version is
tagliatelle al ragù, which is a combination
of pork, veal and tomato sauce tossed
through lengths of fresh egg noodles.

Timeless Time Neighbourhood Italia!
A collection of iconic photographs In our new section we take a look at places
has gone on display in Bologna around the world that offer an authentic
as Vincent Peters’ celebrated taste of Italy: from delis and wine bars to
Timeless Time exhibition arrives restaurants, shops and galleries, we’re
at the Palazzo Albergati, fresh scouring the globe to find the best slice of
from its success at the Palazzo la dolce vita outside of Italy!
Reale in Milan. The exhibition,
produced and organised by
Arthemisia in collaboration with
Nobile Agency, aims to take the
viewer on a journey through some
of the artist’s iconic shots taken
between 2001 and 2021, featuring
a selection of striking black and
white works in which light is the
protagonist that tells the stories
of the portraits’ subjects, which
include the likes of Christian Bale, MURRAYS
Monica Bellucci, Penelope Cruz, 91-93 Hill Road, Clevedon BS21 7PN
Images © Murrays of Clevedon

Cameron Diaz, Angelina Jolie and www.murraysofclevedon.co.uk
Scarlett Johansson. The exhibition Located in the quiet seaside town of Clevedon
is open daily from 10am to 6pm (not far from junction 20 of the M5 motorway),
until 1 October, tickets from €8. Murrays is a restaurant, enoteca, deli and
www.palazzoalbergati.com bakery, bringing a taste of Italy to the North
Image © Vincent Peters, Monica Bellucci, Rome, 2018, Somerset coast. The restaurant offers relaxed
70x90 cm
dining, with a delicious selection of pasta
dishes, cicchetti, pizzas and more, while the
owners have spent years building relationships
Subscribe to Italia! magazine today with vineyards in Italy to curate a spectacular
with our special Autumn Sale offer! array of wines. The attached deli stocks both
This issue’s exciting offer is an opportunity to save Italian and British artisanal produce, from
money on your favourite magazine! Our Autumn balsamic vinegar and olive oil to cured meats,
Sale brings you an exciting deal – a two-year mouthwatering sweet treats, cheese and more.
subscription to Italia! magazine (print or digital), It’s a veritable treasure trove of deliciousness –
delivered to your door or device – for the price of and there’s more on offer in the on-site bakery!
one! If you’re UK-based, you’ll find all the details If you’d like to suggest a favourite place in your
on p28. For our United States customers, please neighbourhood, email [email protected] and
turn to p58 for your special subcription offer. we may feature your choice in a future issue!
3 5
Bologna is renowned for its shops, A trip to Bologna is completed by
with over 40km of arcades and porticoes sampling the area’s cured meats.
around the city, all hosting unmissable It is well-known for its hams, and
food shops. You’ll find a wide selection of another regional speciality is mortadella –
regional delights in any of the shops, but made from pork (containing at least 15 per
Tamburini (www.tamburini.com) is one of cent small cubes of pork fat), black pepper,
the most popular places to visit. myrtle berries and nutmeg.
4
But who could visit any Italian city
without sampling a glass of the best
regional wine with dinner? The hills of
the nearby Colli Bolognesi DOC area produce
a large selection of highly prized wines, with
reds including Sangiovese and Barbera, and
whites ranging from Albana to Trebbiano.

THIS MONTH Going up,

News &Views Move to Mantua
going down...
GOING UP
• An enormous
black truffle
The latest Italian town making a bid
weighing 1.79 kg
to attract new residents in Mantua
has been found
in Lombardy. The city’s officials are
in woods near
taking a proactive approach to tackling
Città di Castello in
depopulation problems, such as a
Umbria, causing
plummeting birth rate and an ageing
great excitement
population, by offering a contribution
in the local
of €150 per month towards the rent of
community. It
newly settled residents, with the aim of
was sniffed out by
encouraging new people to move in from
truffle hound Pepe,
outside the area. The historic city, with
and is by far the
a UNESCO-listed old town, currently has
largest that his 79-year-old owner
around 50,000 residents. “We need to
Romolo Lazzari has discovered in
increase the resident population for the
more than 50 years of hunting.
next few years, increasing the number of
people who work and produce income,” • Archaeologists in Pompeii have
explained the city’s mayor Mattia Palazzi. uncovered a painting that is thought
As a result, €400,000 has been earmarked to depict a precursor to the modern
for 100 new residents to make Mantua their Italian pizza. The 2,000-year-old
new home – though eligibility for the rent fresco shows a flatbread that “may
support is dependent on signing at least a be a distant ancestor of the modern
Mantua is looking to
entice new residents year’s rental contract. dish”, according to Italy’s culture
ministry – though as it is topped
with fruit and spices rather than the
Online this month classic pizza ingredients, it cannot

technically be considered a true
version of the iconic dish.
One of the most useful travel sites we’ve come across
and, as its name suggests, it spans the entire globe. GOING DOWN
Not only does it give precise detail on trains, buses
• A British tourist who carved
and other forms of public transport such as ferries,
his girlfriend’s name into the
it’ll also help you get from A to B on foot or in a
Colosseum could be landed with a
cab. An essential tool for prices, timings and local
prison sentence and a hefty fine,
information for your next trip. www.rome2rio.com
according to Italian officials. The
man caused outrage across Italy
after footage of him defacing
the ancient monument appeared
Unexpected train arrival
online, and the Bristol resident
Passengers and staff on a high-speed train between Rome and
has been told that he could face
Turin got more than they bargained for when a woman went
a fine of up to €15,000 and
into labour en route. The service had to make an emergency
imprisonment of two to five years.
stop just after passing through Genoa, when staff were alerted
that a woman was giving birth on the train, and a search
began for a doctor or nurse on board. Health worker Isabella
Carnero came forward and called a midwife colleague for
advice – a video call between the two enabled a small team
of train staff to help deliver the baby girl, who was born
after around 40 minutes, to delighted applause from other
passengers. The mother and her baby were taken to a nearby
hospital soon afterwards and both are doing well.

I TA L I A ! P R O M O T I O N
Is it easy to get the ability of an individual to claim

citizenship of a country by virtue of being
born to a parent who is a citizen of that
Italian citizenship?
country, regardless of their place of birth.
The Italian law (91/1992) explicitly
outlines the conditions for granting
Italian citizenship by descent. According
to this law, Italian citizenship is conferred
Discovering that you can claim Italian citizenship by descent through if an individual’s father or mother is or
your parents, grandparents, great-grandparents, and in some cases even was an Italian citizen at the time of the
great-great-grandparents can be very exciting. But what is the process of child’s birth. This means that even if a
child is born outside of Italy, they are
acquiring Italian citizenship like? Is it easy to get Italian citizenship? still considered an Italian citizen and can
C
pass on their citizenship to subsequent
ompared to other ITALIAN MUNICIPALITIES: generations, provided that none of
countries, Italian A WEALTH OF RECORDS the individuals in the Italian lineage
citizenship by descent Italian municipalities play a crucial role renounced their Italian citizenship.
is one of the simplest to in facilitating the application process
acquire for a variety of for Italian citizenship by preserving IN CONCLUSION
reasons. These include the absence of comprehensive and well-maintained Contrary to popular belief, applying for
generational barriers, the effectiveness records. This means that if you possess Italian citizenship by descent can be a
of the Italian record-keeping system your ancestor’s name and approximate relatively straightforward and accessible
beginning in the late 1800s, and the fact date of birth, the municipality in Italy process, thanks to the help of ancestry
that you do not need to speak Italian in is likely to have their record on file. The websites, Italian municipalities, and
order to apply. Let’s take a closer look at cooperation of these municipalities favorable Italian citizenship-by-descent
these factors that can offer individuals greatly expedites the process, ensuring laws. It is nonetheless important for
of Italian heritage a simple path to that applicants have access to the applicants to approach the process with
reclaim their ancestral ties and embrace necessary evidence to support their diligence, thoroughness, and a clear
the benefits of Italian citizenship. citizenship claims. understanding of the challenges that
can arise on a case by case basis. Still, by
DETERMINING ELIGIBILITY THE APPLICATION PROCESS leveraging the resources available and
Before embarking on the application Once eligibility has been determined adhering to the guidelines provided
process, it is essential to determine through comprehensive research, by the Italian consulate, individuals
one’s eligibility for Italian citizenship applicants can proceed with the can navigate the application process
by descent. First, your Italian ancestor application process for Italian citizenship confidently, ultimately realizing their
who was born in Italy must have been by descent. While specific requirements dream of obtaining Italian citizenship
alive at the time Italy was unified as may vary based on individual and embracing the cultural heritage and
a nation on March 17, 1861, or they circumstances and the Italian consulate opportunities it brings.
must have been born after that date. in the applicant’s jurisdiction, the
Additionally, your Italian ancestor must process generally involves completing
have never naturalized or must have application forms, submitting the
naturalized after the birth of their child. required documentation (this includes
Fortunately, the absence of generational the vital records of the applicant as well
limits allows individuals to trace their as each family member in the Italian
lineage back several generations and ancestral line) and paying the applicable
explore their eligibility. fees. Applicants must carefully follow the
instructions provided by the consulate
ANCESTRY WEBSITES: and ensure that all the documents are
UNCOVERING FAMILY HISTORY accurately translated and authenticated
Ancestry websites have revolutionized by Apostilles, if required. FIND OUT MORE
genealogical research, allowing
If you would like to
individuals to delve into their family FAVORABLE ITALIAN LAWS: learn more about
history and trace their roots with greater EMBRACING THE PRINCIPLE applying for Italian
ease. Ancestry websites provide access OF JUS SANGUINIS citizenship by descent, please feel free
to vast databases of historical records, Italian laws are designed to support and to contact Italian Citizenship Assistance:
including birth, marriage, and death recognize the right to Italian citizenship USA +1 323 892 0861
certificates, immigration records, and by descent. This recognition is based Italy +39 349 565 5433
[email protected]
census data, all of which are invaluable in on the principle of jus sanguinis, which www.italiancitizenshipassistance.com
order to determine one’s eligibility. translates to ‘right of blood’. It signifies

THIS MONTH Italia! recommends
News &Views EMAIL

US WITH YOUR
QUESTIONS:
[email protected],
or write to us at our
usual address on
If you’re planning to explore
the mighty Dolomite mountains
this autumn and winter, here’s
our pick of where to stay…
page 6.
SHORT-TERM TENANCIES
Q What is the situation regarding students who spend a year or so in Italy for studies or
individuals on a temporary work placement in Italy or working on short-term work projects?
Is there a way they can avoid the tourists’ more expensive rental accommodation options?
A A common type of short-term tenancy agreement in Italy is the locazione transitoria. This
tenancy agreement has a minimum duration of one month and a maximum of eighteen.
The reason for the short-term rental agreement must be specified in the contract and they
HOTEL SASSONGHER
www.hotelsassongher.it
are strictly regulated by the law and the territorial agreements signed by the associations The Dolomites offer the perfect
representing tenants and landlords. Among the reasons that can justify the short-term terrain for hiking and more recently,
rental arrangement are temporary work placements of the tenant, studying, a need to reside skyrunning. Hotel Sassongher, a
temporarily out of one’s own home due to restoration or building works, the need to provide traditional South Tyrolean family-
care to a relative, etc. Owners who wish to temporarily rent out their own property for specific owned hotel has an expert mountain
reasons can rent it out by using this form of contract. This can happen, for example, if they guide to take guests on this exciting
decide to put the property on sale at the expiry of the tenancy agreement. activity. Rooms from €270 per night.
The tenancy agreement automatically terminates at the expiry of the contract. The main
advantage of this type of contract is to enable both tenants and landlords to benefit from the
short-term rental arrangement and thus avoid the application of the general rules applying in
Italy for residential properties, which typically have a minimum fixed term of four years. It is
important to note that the locazione transitoria cannot be used for tourist purposes as tourist
rentals are subject to different regulations. It is always advisable to seek independent legal
advice when signing short-term tenancy agreements as a significant part of the contract can be
discretionarily adapted to the individual, specific requirements of the parties.
GRAND HOTEL SAVOIA
Laura Protti is the founder of LEP Law. She is dual-qualified as an
Italian avvocato and English solicitor, and specialises in assisting
www.grandhotelsavoiacortina.it
British and Italian clients with matters relating to Italian law. For something decidedly less energetic,
Visit her website at www.leplaw.co.uk head to beautiful Cortina d’Ampezzo
and the glamorous charm of Grand
Hotel Savoia. Enjoy the hotel’s elegant
accommodation, take in views of
Ancient footsteps the town, and its proximity to the
History lovers can now get up close and personal with the spot where Julius Caesar is thought mountains. Rooms from £350 per night.
to have been assassinated, as a new walkway has been opened to the public in Rome’s Largo di
Torre Argentina. Until recently, the site, which sits below the city’s modern street level, could
only be viewed from above, with barriers preventing closer access. Now, however, thanks to
works funded by Italian jewellery house Bulgari, visitors can get down to Roman street level,
where raised paths enable them to see this historic site and its ruins more closely,
including four ancient temples and the spot where Caesar was stabbed to
death by a group of senators in 44BC. Largo di Torre Argentina is open
Tuesday to Sunday and costs €5 to visit
(€4 for residents of Rome). LA MAJUN
www.lamajun.it
Located in the heart of the Italian
Dolomites, Alta Badia offers visitors
a chance to live like a local and
experience the area’s culture, traditions
and customs. You’ll enjoy Hotel La
Majun’s warm hospitality after a day’s
exploring. Rooms €240 per night.

We are here to
help you find
your dream
property in the
wine regions
of Piemonte
www.caseinpiemonte.com [email protected]
THIS MONTH
Readers’ Photos Send us your favourite Italian travel
photos, and each month the best photo
wins a bottle of Villa Sandi Il Fresco
Prosecco and exclusive bottle stopper!*
SEE MORE OF
YOUR PHOTOS
ON OUR WEBSITE THIS MONTH’S WINNER
italytravelandlife.com Stuart Fuller, London
“The stunning city of Matera,
taken in October last year.”
Tom Jacobson, New Port Richey, Florida Gail Todd, Charente, France
“Venice at sunset.” “A beach on Capri just down
the way from Gracie Fields’
former home, La Canzone
del Mare.”

PR VIL W
IN
OS LA
ECC SA
O & ND
HIGHLY COMMENDED
BO I IL
TTL FR
E S ESC
!
Steve Burkett, Centennial, Colorado TO O
“In Piazza Colonna, Rome, is the PP
ER
almost 100-foot high Marcus Aurelius
Column. Carved military scenes line
*
this 2nd-century AD marble column,
honouring his victories.”
Ron Lodi,
Simon Taylor “Rome, May 2023.”
Yonkers, New York
“Enjoying an Aperol on one of
the beautiful piazzas in Rome.”
*Prosecco and bottle stopper delivered to mainland UK addresses only. To find out more about Villa Sandi, see May 2017 issue.
Mary Riley, Windsor, Colorado
“My husband and I went to Italy for our 30th anniversary.
A stop along the way to Firenze was beautiful little Orvieto!”
Richard Patterson, Ridgmont HOW TO PREPARE AND SEND YOUR PHOTOS

“The fortified centre of
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San Marino.” HEIC files. Please do not crop them to the size you see in the magazine.
➤ Email your photos to [email protected] or send prints to ‘Reader Photo
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THIS MONTH Pomegranates
In Print
& Artichokes:
Recipes &
memories of a
journey from
Iran to Italy
Saghar Setareh,
Rome’s vibrant culinary diversity across the Murdoch Books, £26
millennia, recipes include a hot fish pickle (hardback)
from Roman times (enjoyed with seeded wine Tehran-born,
crackers – an adaptation of another ancient Rome-based writer and photographer Saghar
Roman classic lagana, a forerunner of modern Setareh takes us on a culinary journey from
lasagne) and a modern spicy red pepper her homeland to her adopted country in three
sorbet to accompany deep-fried goat’s cheese. stages: Iran, In Between and Italy. On the
No account of Roman food is complete without way, she shows us the threads that link Middle
artichokes (that’s why there’s one on the Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines, and how
cover!), and here we have two classic dishes: ingredients are transported and transformed
carciofi alla Romana (steamed with olive oil, across borders. For example, she draws a
garlic, parsley and a local mint, mentuccia) culinary line from aubergine parmigiana to
and carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried in the style the Turkish dish imam bayildi, and from the
beloved of Rome’s Jewish community). Middle East’s charred aubergine dish baba
Beautiful photography throughout ganoush to Iran’s mirza ghasemi – charred
brings the city and its dazzling cuisine to life. auberine with tomato and egg. Saghar’s
A fascinating introduction sets the scene in stunning photography and engaging stories
ten points which have made Rome’s culinary bring her irresistible recipes to life.
landscape what it is today. The book is
organised into recipe sections which flow The Lost Daughter
elegantly from antipasti to dolci, (and not of Venice
forgetting the cocktails). Finally, we meet Charlotte Betts,
Recipes from Rome some Roman food notables and learn what Piatkus,
Katie and Giancarlo Caldesi, they love about their city’s food. £14.99 (paperback)
Hardie Grant, £18.99 (hardback) This evocative tale of
Romans value the cooking of their city as romance, intrigue and
‘vera’, meaning ‘true’ or ‘honest’. Recipes drama takes heroine
from Rome illustrates what this means, Phoebe Wyndham
capturing the scents, savours and sights of unwillingly back to her
this magical city’s distinctive cuisine. Authors old home, the grand Venetian Palazzo degli
Katie and Giancarlo Caldesi welcome us to Angeli, whose neglect is a haunting reminder
their ‘compilation album’ of recipes, with a of all she has lost. Arriving back in Italy
rich exploration of the authentic and some after a plea from her estranged relative, the
of their own interpretations. Celebrating Contessa di Sebastiano, the recently widowed
My favourite place in Italy Don’t miss the

annual film festival
Montone, Umbria
RICHARD TESTER, ITALIA! READER
Assisi may get the limelight in Umbria
but it’s the medieval hilltop village of
Montone north of Perugia that’s the real gem.
Images by Richard Tester
With its winding alleyways, picturesque piazza

and gorgeous views from its walls, it
captures the essence of rustic Italy.

Phoebe finds her aunt is dead and the palazzo
THIS MONTH
Top 5 Events
now belongs to her. Wishing only to sell the
property and return home, Phoebe uncovers a
dark family secret, and, stunned by a shocking If you’re
deception, she vows not to leave the City of planning to attend
any of these events,
Water without first unravelling the truth from do make sure they
the lies. When her camera catches something are taking place
before you
more sinister than the faded grandeur of travel!
Venice, Phoebe begins to question who she
1
can really trust – and whether her aunt’s death Italy is awash with food festivals
was truly an accident after all… in autumn – first up, how about a
weekend in Spilamberto in Emilia
The Olive Oil Romagna to fill your senses with balsamic
Enthusiast vinegar at MAST CÒT (mosto cotto in local
Skyler Mapes & dialect)? This event enables visitors to
Giuseppe Morisani, watch the must being boiled over slow heat
Ten Speed Press/ in traditional pots. Visitors can also buy
Penguin Random tickets to taste different foods garnished
House, £16.99 with balsamic vinegar at local bars,
(hardback) restaurants and shops.
The olive tree, its 30 September – 1 October, www.mastcot.it
fruit and its oil are
2
the gifts of the Mediterranean to the world. Visit the village of Villa di Tirano in Lombardy’s Valtellina valley
This beautiful book – subtitled ‘A Guide from to pay homage to the local produce at the SAGRA DELLA MELA E
Tree to Table, with Recipes’ – is a fascinating DELL’UVA. Apples and grapes are at the heart of the festivities,
and approachable guide to everything about which include a competition for the best apple of the year as well as music
olive oil, taking you from the olive groves and cultural attractions, and the streets lined with stalls of food and drink
during growing season, through the harvest from the area.
and to the final production processes. 5-8 October (TBC), www.sagradellamela.it
Interesting fact: it takes 100 kg of olives to
3
produce just four litres of extra-virgin olive The chestnut is a hero ingredient in Italy and is celebrated across
oil. The authors – producers of an acclaimed the country in October. Cuneo’s FIERA NAZIONALE DEL MARRONE
oil from their own groves in Calabria – show is well worth a look. The Piedmontese town spends three days
you how to shop for, taste and store your oil, celebrating the chestnut and other delicious local produce, making this a
with twenty recipes to showcase what you can great time of year to immerse yourself in this lovely destination.
do with it. Olive oil is not just for the kitchen, 13-15 October, www.marrone.net
either, as you can use it as part of your
4
skincare regime. Enjoy a Mediterranean diet In early November the village of San Lorenzo Dorsino in Trentino
and use olive oil as a moisturiser, and you will be taken over by the SAGRA DELLA CIUÌGA. The event blends
Image © Valerio Rigotti

too could look like Sophia Loren! What more gastronomy and folklore, celebrating the local ‘ciuìga’ sausage and
could one ask of a superfood? includes a market of local handicrafts, food and wine tastings, guided
tours and a section of the festival that’s dedicated to children, with
various kid-friendly entertainment and activities.
3-5 Nov, www.sanlorenzodorsino.it
5
Each weekend in November
a different town in the
province of Parma will
host a selection of events that
honour the area’s famous local
meat, from markets and special
themed restaurant menus to live
performances and DJ sets. Find out
where this year’s festival will be held
via the NOVEMBER PORC website.
3-26 November,
The narrow streets
of Montone
www.novemberporc.it

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THIS MONTH
Top Picks
Time to relax and browse through this issue’s
round-up of Italian-inspired products
FALL IN LOVE
Lazzaroni apple or pumpkin
panettone, £25,
www.sacla.co.uk
YOU SAY TOMATO

Retro storage set, £9.95,
www.thenorthern
line.co.uk
PASTA MASTER
Dine in style with these Abstract
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habitat.co.uk
INTO THE BLUE
Cool self-cleaning water bottle,
£44.99, www.zerowater.co.uk
JAVA FLOW
Bosch Tassimo style
CAFFÈ LUXE coffee machine, £97.49,
Malachite espresso cup www.quietmark.com
& saucer by L’Objet, £90,
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ON THE MOVE
Travel light with the Layla
leather rucksack, £129,
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PERFECT TASTE STAY SHARP
Inspire your palate with
Vibrant knife set, £29.95,
The Flavour Thesaurus Vol.2,
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£20, www.bloomsbury.com
Prices correct at time of printing

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
High in the Province of Trapani, in western Sicily, stands a concrete labyrinth

marking out the streetscape of a town that was lost to an earthquake

The Cretto (Crack) di Burri, also known as the Cretto di Gibellina,
or simply Il Grande Cretto, is a concrete sculpture by the artist
Alberto Burri, who began the work in 1984 and left it, due to lack
of funds, in 1989. Measuring 350m by 280m and standing 1.5m
high, it covers the old town of Gibellina, which was destroyed by
an earthquake in 1968 and stood as a ruin until Burri began his
project. Burri died in 1995, shortly before his 80th birthday, but
his landscape artwork was finally completed in 2015, to mark
his centenary. (Present-day Gibellina – the name derives from
the Arabic for ‘Mountain’ plus the Italian diminutive, so ‘Little
Mountain’ – was rebuilt 20km from here.)

Clockwise from
top left:
Cat-themed
artwork in
Centocelle
The ‘Cannon’ in
Tor Pignattara
commemorates
victims of the
first world war
Street art is a
major feature of
Pigneto
Sergio Leone
mural in
Centocelle
More street art
in Quadraro
Authentic
Roman market
atmosphere
at Mercato
Tuscolano III
Shrine in
Pigneto
A beautiful cat
of the suburb
View of the
Aqueduct in Tor
Pignattara

48 HOURS IN…
Suburban
Rome Revealing another side to the Eternal City,
Elisa Colarossi takes us on a guided tour around the
treasures of Rome’s suburbs
A
s any born-and-bred Roman, I acknowledged early in my
life that with its enticing history, movie-like atmosphere
and picture-perfect features, Rome is undoubtedly the
city of dreams. But behind that magical façade, another
kind of beauty is hiding. Curious travellers will be excited
to discover this brilliant and little-known area called periferia (suburb),
where I was proudly born. It brings a brand-new fresh perspective on the
familiar face of Rome that everyone should experience, at least once!
Historically, local neighbourhoods have successfully revived themselves
with their bustling food, drink, and local lifestyle scene, and yes, the
Images by Elisa Colarossi
suburb is the place to be! And even more so in Rome. With the sound
of Roman dialect everywhere and residents busy running their errands
bond seamlessly with street art, surprising architecture, authentic living,
and mouthwatering bites for a superb and truly unusual two days in the
Eternal City, far away from the crowds.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

PARCO DI TOR FISCALE 1
Via dell’Acquedotto Felice, 120
www.torredelfiscale.it
See Roman aqueducts, sepulchres,
remains of Roman villas from the Mausoleo di Sant’Elena
Imperial era and the imposing 30-metre
high eponymous tower. To cover more
ground in less time, consider renting
a bike. Grab a coffee or an aperitivo at
Ristoro del Casale.
MERCATO TUSCOLANO III 2
Viale Spartaco, 45
www.mercatidiroma.com
One of my favourite markets in Rome!
Big, loud and offering everything from
produce to homeware. A market where
you’ll be able to experience a true
Roma, buying regional delicacies such as
freshly grated pecorino cheese and warm
porchetta di Ariccia sliced on the spot. ‘Coffè Break’
mural by Etan Cru Pigneto street scene
MANDRIONE 3
Via del Mandrione
DON’T MISS DAY 1: TOR PIGNATTARA Pignattara is an alluring, intricate
Right behind Pigneto sits Casilina
Vecchia. Its peaceful atmosphere, ROMAN CATS AND PIGNETO open-air museum to get lost in.
eye-catching features and the aqueduct As you walk That typical suburban ‘rough Walking the streets of Tor
overlooking like a gentle giant makes these suburban around the edge-ness’ is what I love Pignattara is like diving into
these streets perfect for a stroll. The streets, you’ll
get to meet very
about the periferia romana. What a bubbling pot, your eyes are
name of the area (and the street of makes it so special for me is not constantly distracted and this
the same name) comes from ‘mandria’ unusual but
adorable Roman only that I call it home, but because vibrant atmosphere is exactly what
(herd), which refers to when, back in the
citizens: the exploring it should be high up in the suburbs are all about. After
day, shepherds used to bring herds to
graze on these very streets (once fields).
cats. In these any must-see Roman trip. basking in the wondrous artworks
residential areas That uniqueness that suburbs and authentic local lifestyle,
CATACOMBE DEI SANTI MARCELLINO away from the
hold easily captivates any visitor venture onto the Via Casilina.
E PIETRO 4 centre you’ll
have the chance
Via Casilina, 641
www.santimarcellinoepietro.it
Situated on the busy Via Casilina, these
to encounter
plenty! But In Rome you will always find some
catacombs represent a true treasure
of Roman Christianity with wonderful
frescoes. Excavated between the 3rd and
rest assured,
in Rome, cats
are well taken
care of, thanks
bits of history, guaranteed
5th century AD, the Catacombs of are an to volunteers
iconic must-see, as is the Mausoleo di (called ‘gattari’) who explores for the first time As you walk you’ll get to witness
Sant’Elena, where Emperor Constantine’s who take care of – and Tor Pignattara, the first the Roman traffic glide by on one
mother was buried. (Closed on Thursdays their food and neighbourhood stop in our of the busiest streets of the capital.
and during the whole month of August.) health needs. bedazzling 48 hours, doesn’t A fascinating deep-dive into
Some of the cats disappoint, thanks to its strong history awaits, starting from
VILLA GORDIANI 5 have owners
Via Prenestina, 325 street art, eye-catching architecture the ‘Cannon’, a monument that
and just love to
www.sovraintendenzaroma.it browse around; and fascinating history – a buzzing commemorates every victim of
Rome is home to wonderful historical others are part and lively international hub where war, but specifically the victims
parks and Villa Gordiani is no exception. of colonies. cultures, food, and traditions from Tor Pignattara during the
Built during the 3rd century AD and Either way they combine to give life to, as we first world war, followed by the
owned by the Imperial Gordian family, won’t say no to a Romans call it, ‘Tor Pigna’. Parrocchia Dei Santi Marcellino
cuddle or two.
the complex is divided by one of the One of the striking points of e Pietro ad Duas Lauros, its
busiest streets of Rome (Via Prenestina) interest of these colourful streets Catacombs and the wondrous
and is a concoction of interesting ruins, is the ‘Coffè Break’ mural by Etam Mausoleo di S. Elena. It doesn’t
but what strikes you most about it is the Cru – at 32 metres high it is the matter if you’re out of the centre
size of the Mausoleum and the remains of
tallest street artwork of Rome. or on the very edge of the GRA
its vaulted dome that puts you in mind of
Marvel at more than thirty works (Grande Raccordo Anulare, the
the Pantheon.
of street art, proving that Tor ring road of the city), in Rome

WHERE TO STAY
ABBRACCIA MORFEO B&B 6
Via Capua, 24
www.abbracciamorfeo.it
Parrocchia dei Santi Local accommodation at its best. Located
Marcellino e Pietro on the first floor of a Roman-style villino
of the early 1900s, on a tranquil street in
between Tor Pignattara and Pigneto, this
is genuinely your home away from home.
The Metro C Malatesta around the corner
and the lovely terrace make Abbraccia
Morfeo a true jewel.
SWEET HOME PIGNETO GUEST HOUSE 7
Via L’Aquila, 29
www.sweethomepigneto.it
Contemporary staying with a touch of
that good old Roman fashion. Located
right in the heart of Pigneto, this stylish
yet authentic guest house will make you
feel right at home. It stands conveniently
close to shops, restaurants and all the
Pigneto street art hip places of the neighbourhood – plus
Metro C Pigneto is just a five-minute
you’ll always find some bits of Walk along the Isola Pedonale DON’T MISS walk away if you ever decide you wish to
venture further afield.
history, guaranteed. Monuments, to take in the energy of the area, LARGO
street art and lots of steps work then cross the bridge that divides PRENESTE’ L’OASI AL PIGNETO 8
up an appetite – and where better the district, glimpsing the train VOTIVE WALL Via del Pigneto, 227
to satisfy it than Osteria Bonelli, tracks below, to stroll through the In the very www.loasialpigneto.it
a local favourite offering true little streets of Pigneto, rich in midst of one Enjoy Pigneto and its wondrous gardens,
Roman food in a no-frills setting? murals and poster art. of the beating staying at one of the cutest places in
hearts of Roman town. Surrounded by lemon trees and a
Order the special of the day or stick Pigneto accompanied me during
traffic, at the one of a kind chill atmosphere (only 300
with a tasty Roman primo. my high school years and I have metres from the metro), this charming
corner of Via
tremendous memories, which is Prenestina and peaceful location will let you
BOHEMIAN VIBES why this area holds a significant and Via di breathe a new side of Rome, while being
After a fulfilling Roman feast, place in my heart. Grab a coffee Portonaccio, sits incredibly close to the lively part of it.
gently slide into a nearby local at Necci, one of the cornerstones the Votive Wall
favourite neighbourhood, of the neighbourhood. If you still (Ex-Voto) of
APPIA ANTICA RESORT 9
Via Appia Pignatelli, 368
where street art, nightlife and have some appetite, try one of Largo Preneste,
www.appiaanticaresort.com
bohemian vibes collide – there’s my favourite pizza rossa slices of a particular
Add some ‘Roman posh vibes’ to your
just one place that can fit it eastern Rome at Forno Ferrari. curiosity.
Faithfuls stay by spending your fabulous days in
all: Pigneto. Colourful, lively, This area is also rich in little the heart of the Appia Antica, famous
commemorating
fresh and typically Roman, this villini (tiny villas), meaning that for being the oldest road in the world.
their answered
neighbourhood offers some of the Pigneto is not just a nightlife prayers (since You are still incredibly close to the city,
best in terms of aperitivo and that destination, but an attractive 1910) with yet perfectly balancing that countryside
beloved Roman-style passeggiata. residential area, where walks can marble plaques feeling, thanks to unbelievable gardens
be quite relaxing. Make sure to which life and scenery.
have your phone or camera ready to a unique
B&B GLICINI 10
to capture the most colourful and memorial,
Via dei Glicini, 125
edgy aesthetic as Pigneto offers located right
bb-glicini.business.site
seriously dazzling scenes. where you would
Simple, tranquil and efficient, this bed
least expect
As the sun sets, the cool side of and breakfast only five minutes from
it, granting
Pigneto starts to come to surface: the Metro C Mirti station has everything
everyone
groups of ragazzi having their passing by
you could ever need for an easy and
aperitivo and a loud cacophony of something
hassle-free stay. The area it’s in is one
background chatter taking over. of the most peaceful of Centocelle.
truly unique to
Grab a beer at Birra+, for a great Via Dei Castani, the main street of the
gaze at. Via di
neighbourhood with all the shops and
selection of local pints, or have Portonaccio,
bars plus restaurants and pizzerias,
Entrance to the Mausoleum and Catacombs a bottle of Peroni at Bar Rosi, to 568
are just at a hand’s reach.
properly ‘do as the Romans do’.

5
WHERE TO EAT DAY 2: QUADRARO
7 11 12
AND CENTOCELLE
OSTERIA DEGLI UBERTINI 11 Our second suburban day starts 8 14
Via Guglielmo degli Ubertini, 77
in Quadraro, one of my favourite 13
www.instagram.com/osteria_ 10
degliubertini
neighbourhoods in Rome for
street art and a true Roman vibe: 6
Surrounded by residential buildings and
calm, gentle but with a strong 4 15
locals running their errands, Osteria
degli Ubertini is an extraordinary character and a ‘messy’ personality. 3
traditional osteria where you’ll get to I truly consider Quadraro the
enjoy the true Roman meal experience. Roman oasis par excellence with
Busy and lively, it can’t get any more its little villas, tranquil condos
Roman than this. and incredible nature tucked just
€ €
minutes away (see Appia Antica,
L’OMBRALONGA 12 Tor Fiscale).
Via Federico Delpino, 110 Dive into the history of
www.instagram.com/lombralonga Quadraro with a glimpse of the 1 2
Grab a Spritz and a scrumptious tagliere Nido di Vespe (Wasps’ Nest),
to nibble on and go with the flow. an artwork by Lu Camaleonte
Venetian-themed with their Roman- on Via del Monte del Grano,
inspired cicchetti and many refreshing which translates in images the
kinds of Spritz, L’Ombralonga is one of name that the Occupation used to
Map data © Google 2023

the most famous places for aperitivo in refer to the area given its very high
the whole of Rome.
€ €
concentration of the Resistance
fighters during the second world 9
OSTERIA QUI SE MAGNA 13 war. It’s a story that ended in
Via del Pigneto, 307A tragedy 70 years ago and is now
osteriaquisemagna.business.site remembered thanks to the abiding
Unpretentious, easy-going and fun, power of art.
exactly like eating with your family. As The streets of Quadraro have a
their names states “qui se magna” (here certain appeal; and they masterfully
one eats). Far from the crowded part
transform a simple walk into an
of Pigneto, this osteria is the perfect
location for a special Roman dinner, amid
unforgettable experience. The
lively locals. passion of this area always leads
€ € me to cool street art and sceneries,
but most of all to one of the finest
HOSTARIA 100CELLE 14 Roman maritozzi (sweet cream
Via delle Acacie, 122 buns) at L’Angelo Azzurro, a busy
hostaria100celle.business.site
pastry bar where locals gather from
Tucked away in the quieter part of
Centocelle, this osteria is my go-to.
early in the morning until right
‘Nido di Vespa’,
Everything is freshly made and the host before dinner. Wander through the Wasps’ Nest
is a delight. Their menu offers some of the wonderful streets of the oldest
the most traditional Roman specialties, part of Quadraro, called Quadraro
including tongue, tripe and beans with Vecchio, rich in beautifully Quadraro street art
pork rinds. Their home-made tiramisù, colourful townhouses and brilliant
though, takes the crown. murals. And to satisfy your needs
€ € for Roman cuisine, try the best
BUONE MANIERE 15 local food with an authentic feast at
Via Tor de’ Schiavi, 77 Osteria der Tempo Perso.
www.buonemaniere.net
A local favourite where ingredients AFTER LUNCH
and good manners (as their name Jump on the Metro A at Porta
states) stand out brilliantly. Order the Furba station, change directions
‘fritto Italia’ for the best fried sage at San Giovanni, grabbing the
and seasonal vegetables you’ll ever Metro C, and get out at Mirti ➤ KEY TO
try. Then the main protagonist: pizza. station, where Centocelle, the RESTAURANT PRICES
Their selection is huge, but go for the (full meal per person,
place I was born, is begging to be not including wine)
‘Campione’, which won first place in the
discovered. Centocelle is a bustling € Up to €25
Campionato di Pizza Italiana.
€ €
neighbourhood that has been Panino from Antichi Sapori € € €26-€50
evolving year after year – the place € € € More than €50

Pastel-pink
The aqueduct in Centocelle Bar Orazio in Centocelle
More colourful
buildings in
Centocelle
Chiesa di San Felice da Cantalice
DON’T MISS to be for amazing food experiences

‘ANTICHI and relaxed drinking sessions.
SAPORI’ IN Not only is the gastronomic
CENTOCELLE scene truly glorious, but with its
One of the best easy lifestyle and pastel-coloured
delis in Rome buildings, this area of eastern Rome
can be found can give off amazing ‘little town
in the heart
vibes’. Don’t expect awe-inspiring
of Centocelle
centro storico sceneries; instead Residential buildings in Quadraro
and for a mid-
morning Roman
you’ll find a fabulously casual and
panino there’s welcoming atmosphere. Have a
nothing better. coffee break at Bar Orazio, the majestic self as one of the most coffee and chats about calcio, kids
With fresh oldest bar in the neighbourhood, precious landmarks of Centocelle. playing football on the sidewalk
bread, regional a favourite location for Italian These streets, filled with and countless unknown details
cheeses, cold movies and TV series – stepping authentic local life, are also some of encapsulate the essence of the
cuts, olives Roman suburbs.
and a lovely
atmosphere,
Antichi Sapori is
Centocelle is the place to be for A whole new kind of Roman
history can be experienced, as
the alimentario
of everyone’s
dreams. The
amazing food experiences well simply witnessing how these
neighbourhoods flow, thanks to,
as I always say, a kind of simplicity
owners are that makes things extraordinary.
incredibly kind inside is like going back to the the best for the most famous Italian That’s why stepping off the beaten
and fun plus 1950s. Have a walk in the main ritual in Rome: the aperitivo. A path and out of our comfort zone
the iconic boar Via dei Castani, then head to the favourite place of mine to drink can lead to a wonderful feeling of
statue placed Chiesa di San Felice da Cantalice, before dinner is Festina Lente – ‘that was so worth it’. Rome knows
outside facing the main church of Centocelle, easy-going, lively and probably how to wow in effortless style.
their entrance
built between 1934 and 1935 – the place that epitomises the chill
is an amusing romangalgoesaround
it’s the place where all the kids and enthusiastic attitude of the
feature that has
been there since
living in the area get baptised and neighbourhood. The Roman
I was a kid. Via receive their First Communion suburb is all about that: true GETTING THERE
delle Acacie, 41A (as did yours truly). Just a little to hidden gems, conviviality and a
the left of the church, the majestic no-frills lifestyle. Nonne strolling ➤ Fly to Rome Fiumicino (more
central) or Ciampino (favoured by the
Acquedotto Alessandrino, built their carts from a fruit vendor budget airlines), or travel by train from
in 226 AD by Emperor Alexander to another, Roman dialect, old London St Pancras.
Severus, will gradually reveal its men hanging out at the bars for

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In the Siena region and neighbouring Chianti Classico

territory, Amy McPherson meets a group of passionate
Tuscans whose love for their land is creating a lifestyle and
production choice of returning to the basics
Images by Amy McPherson unless otherwise stated

G
iovanni Stella never thought he’d
become a winemaker. “I wanted to go
fishing!” he admits, arms waving like
a conductor of an orchestra. Giovanni
started working in the wine trade at the
age of 15, at an age when Italian children must choose
the school of their future profession.
“At the time, I had no idea what I wanted to do,” he
explained, “so I chose the school that had the longest
study, which was winemaking, only to give me time to
think about what I want to do with my life!”
Coincidently, Giovanni’s father knew someone
who owned a winery, and Giovanni went along to
work for him for the reason that there was a pond in
the middle of the vineyards where he could go fishing.
But noticing how passionate the winemaker was in the
production process, and the care he took to ensure the
quality of his wine, Giovanni took the chance to make
his work experience a career. Today, at the age of 33, he
is a consultant winemaker who works across wineries
on returning to basics, producing organic and low-
sulphite wines of the Chianti Classico region.
Consultant
winemaker
Giovanni
Stella
Image © Tuscany Now & More
Giovanni Stella, wine consultant
“I had no idea what I wanted to

do so I chose the school that
A hot air balloon had the longest study, which
view over the
landscape was winemaking.”
A TASTE OF CHIANTI CLASSICO voluminous in body, complex in flavour and smooth Below left: Paolo
At the Caparsa Winery in Radda in Chianti, I in texture. In total, we tried twelve different styles and and his son at the
learned that Chianti and Chianti Classico are two vintage that Paolo and family produces. By the end Caparsa winery
different wine regions. Paolo Cianferoni traced the I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve thought, Below right: Paolo
jagged border of Chianti Classico, which is within “Oh, this is my favourite.” and his range of
the Chianti region, and explained that this was the In Chianti Classico, wines must be made with Chianti Classico
‘original Chianti’, before wine production became minimum of 80 per cent Sangiovese, a grape wines
commercial internationally. The main difference considered to be the Tuscan staple. Even so, the grape
between Chianti Classico and Chianti is that the is in fact the child of the ancient Ciliegiolo of Tuscany Right: Salvatore
Barrese, local
wines are made with quality in mind, not quantity. and Calabrese Montenuovo of Sicily. producer of ancient
“The Chianti Classico area is actually many, many Agricultural processing over time has mixed and grains
different wine regions,” Paolo explained, making a blended the DNAs of everything we produce so that,
finger point with his free hand as he poured me a small today, much of what we consume is ‘modern’ crops
tasting glass of his Chianti Classico Riserva with the that are often fragile to the environments they grow in
other. “There are so many different altitudes, soils and and not necessarily healthy in the long term for nature
climates just in Chianti Classico territory. Even if my and the creatures that live in it.
neighbour uses the same grapes and the same method Caparsa Winery makes 100 per cent Sangiovese
to make wine, I can guarantee you, our wines will be wines. Cultivating only Sangiovese on organic land to
very different.” I tried the wine, a 2017 vintage that is make wine is Paolo’s way of controlling the extent of
that change, to try to keep using what grows naturally
as much as possible.
Paolo Cianferoni, wine producer The more time I spend in Tuscany, the more
I notice the people’s common sentiment of wanting
“ There are many different to return to our food’s natural origins.
altitudes, soils and climates in

Chianti Classico territory.”

BACK TO BASICS
“I think in Tuscany, especially in the Siena region,
since we have some of the oldest agricultural heritage
in Italy, the people feel a lot more bonded with our
land,” says Salvatore Barrese, landowner, farmer and
producer of ancient grains. “By going back to what
grows naturally, it is good for the land, which means
the product is also good for the people.”
Salvatore started this journey of farming ancient
grains back in 2001 for himself. But it took several
years of organic land conversion before he could
produce crops that could be certified as organic.
When I asked him what the first thing he made was
when he harvested and milled his first crop,
he laughed. “Well, pasta, of course!”
That night, we were served pasta made from
Salvatore’s ancient grain flour. Pasta made from the
ancient grain is darker in colour, more digestible and
easier on the stomach. You can also taste the flavour
of the grain a lot more. Throughout the centuries,
grain crops have evolved and been modified for
human consumption. The wheat and rice we eat today
have been transformed by humans to be suitable for
production, not necessarily considering the impact
on the grain’s growth and the environment around
it. Now a new generation of producers is going back
to basics, return to organic farming methods and
cultivating ancient grains, to work with nature and
grow what is natural to the environment.
“I strongly believe,” said Salvatore, making his
final remarks before leaving us to savour dinner, “that
if nature is happy, if we grow crops that are natural
to the environment and to us, humans will also be
healthier, and happier in many ways.”
Salvatore Barrese, landowner and farmer
“By going back to what grows naturally,

it is good for the land, which means the
product is also good for the people.”
LEARNING TO LOVE THE LAND
Ennio Polito grew up in the villa that is now Palazzo
Cheto, a beautiful private villa restored from a 13th-
century monastery that offers guests an exclusive
retreat among the Tuscan hills around Siena.
“You know, these trees were already here when I was
little.” Ennio took me mushrooming one morning and
told me this as we zigzagged between the small beech
and fir forest on his estate. “But growing up, I was
never interested. I just wanted to play PlayStation!”
Bending down to inspect a potential porcino, he
gently stabbed the mushy underparts of the pores and
shook his head. “Nope, this one might look like a

D I SS C
COOVVEERR I TA
I TA
L ILAI A
! !

Image © Palazzo Cheto
Hilltop villa
Palazzo Cheto
Palazzo Cheto is a luxury nine-bedroom private villa that
sleeps up to 18 people. The hill top location has stunning
views of Siena and the surrounding countryside, and the
villa has a private pool, a gym, a tennis court and plenty
of outdoor space. Chef and on site staff are included in the
rental and activities such as cooking classes, horse riding,
yoga, meditation and hot air balloon experiences can be
additionally arranged with the concierge during your stay.

To book, visit Tuscany Now & More (www.tuscanynow
andmore.com). For further information about Tuscany,
visit Visit Tuscany (www.visittuscany.com)
Near Siena
Private pool

Clockwise from
above:
Ennio Polito
with his sister
and father
Foraging for
mushrooms
with Ennio
If you have a
head for heights,
the best way to
appreciate the local
landscape is by
porcino but it is poisonous. See how the colour changes
balloon when I bruise it? No good.”
As he got older, he developed an appreciation of
Woodland the land, of nature, and learned foraging from his Ennio Polito, estate owner and forager
mushrooms friends. “The more I learned, the more I respected
freshly picked nature,” he says. “In fact, there is a lot nature can teach
us. We just have to learn to listen.” “ There is a lot nature can teach
After two hours of wading among branches and
gossamer spider’s webs, we returned to the villa, where
our private chef, Christina, clapped her hands in joy
us. We just have to learn to listen.”
as she inspected our bounty of four porcini and one
Caesar’s mushroom. To reduce the carbon footprint “And I love what I do here at the villa because I can
of the food consumed by guests, meal time at Palazzo share my piece of Tuscany with my guests.”
Cheto is a celebration of locally grown (and foraged)
seasonal produce and home-cooked delights. The villa A LOOK FROM ABOVE
even produces its own olive oil from the trees that Our last view of Tuscany was from the height of a hot
surround the poolside, and picking time is always a air balloon, floating quietly in the sky above Siena. The
party at the property. sun was just rising, revealing the land that varied from
“I feel so proud to be Tuscan, especially from this wooded patches to grassy hills to the clustered urban
region of Tuscany,” Ennio sighs post-lunch as we gaze centres pin dropped by the towers so well-known in
amymcp_writer towards the Siena skyline visible from the villa’s garden. the celebrated Tuscan landscape.
From here, I could see the ‘micro-climates’ created
by the light and shadows playing among the curves of
the land. I could see how human influence has created
concrete oases disrupting nature’s Eden. I could see

why a new generation of passionate Tuscan growers
and producers wants to return to ancient origins and
work with what nature is naturally good for.
From winemakers to grain growers to villa owners,
their enthusiasm is contagious – enough for me to
want to be part of it, part of this territory.
But for now, as the morning mist begins to lift,
revealing Siena below, the sunlight washing the
surroundings in a radiant glow, I lean back on the
basket of the balloon, let my mind go and breathe in
the passion of this land worthy of a Puccini aria.

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FA S T C U LT U R E
You would think that

Francesco’s mighty
accomplishments
Doge Francesco
Morosini, in red would ensure him
costume and armour
Detail of a painting by
Domenico Uberti, 1692 lasting fame
The
Captain-General’s Cat
FA S T C U LT U R E
Odeon of Herodes Atticus

below the Acropolis, with
Mouseion Hill in background
Piraeus Lion,
circa 360 BC, from
the harbour of
Athens – looted
by Morosini, now
in front of the
Arsenal in Venice
Mummified
cat, Nini, and
a mummified
mouse or
rat. Nini was
Morosini’s
beloved pet
Parthenon of Athens,
with scaffolding

I
n his day, Francesco Morosini leave Venice behind, and go to the scene the building, having survived so long, was
Images by Patricia Gartman unless otherwise stated
was, perhaps, the greatest of of the crime: the city of Athens. indestructible; in any case, they stored
Venice’s heroes. A descendent If you’ve visited Athens, you know most of their gunpowder and munitions
of the ancient and powerful that the Acropolis, a great grey limestone in the Parthenon’s cella.
Morosini family, he led Venetian monolith, rises above and dominates the Next time you’re in Athens, when you
forces to many glorious victories in the city. No doubt you climbed the slippery climb the Acropolis, go to the southern
Great Turkish War against the Ottoman marble steps up to the Propylaea, and edge of the hill, just past the Temple
Empire. In fact, in 1687 he managed to emerged from that great gateway onto of Nike. Below, you’ll see an ancient
conquer the entire Peloponnese – on a the hilltop, where you were surrounded amphitheatre, the Odeon of Herodes
map, that great southern peninsula of by the finest remains of Periclean Athens. Atticus. Look past the theatre, and its
Greece, with its finger-like projections You admired the small temple to Athena arched skene, or backdrop; there is a
pointing south into the Mediterranean, called the Erechtheum, whose porch is wooded hill beyond and just to the right,
that seems to be thumbing its nose at supported by six of antiquity’s loveliest with a ruined tower on its crest. This is
Crete… As well it might, because, years caryatids, and next to the Propylaea’s the Mouseion hill. The ruined tower is
before, Morosini had been forced to south wall, another small temple that a monument to an ancient prince. It was
surrender Crete to the Turks. celebrates Nike, goddess of victory. from the top of this hill that a mortar
But we needn’t dwell on that. Better But it was the Parthenon that shell was fired by one of Morosini’s
to remember him as Peloponnesiacus, commanded your attention – and awe. gunners. If you’d been there at the time,
liberator of the Peloponnese. And, lest we The great building’s outer colonnade the 26th of September, 1687, you might
forget, he went on to take Athens back consists – or rather, consisted – of 46 have seen a puff of smoke on the hill,
from the Turks, too (if only temporarily). fluted Doric columns, each 34 feet high. and heard the whistle of the shell’s flight
So, it is not surprising that he was elected Within the structure, more columns before it landed in the Parthenon’s cella,
Doge as soon as that office became surrounded the cella, an inner sanctuary. and the entire hilltop erupted in flames.
vacant, which it did in 1688.
Francesco was not the first of his
family to wear the ducal corno. Three of
his ancestors preceded him as Doges of
To fully examine the event for which the
Venice; and another, a certain Domenico
Morosini, commanded the galley that world remembers him, we must leave
transported the four Horses of St. Mark
to Venice, after they were stolen from
Constantinople in 1204.
Venice behind and go to Athens
MIGHTY ACCOMPLISHMENTS Phidias, the greatest sculptor of his age, Of course, the Ottoman resistance
You would think that Francesco’s mighty created a frieze around the top of the crumbled like the Parthenon’s columns.
accomplishments would ensure him cella, depicting Athenians and gods in Morosini called the shot “fortunate,”
lasting fame, and a place among Europe’s procession. Above the outer colonnade, which seems to have enraged generations
pantheon of greats; and in Venice, at least, and in the triangular pediments at each of historians. He also tried to bring a
he is fondly remembered. (Two years ago, end of the building, there were dramatic section of the west pediment reliefs
I was able to attend an excellent exhibit high-relief carvings: Athena and Poseidon home as a souvenir, but it fell and was
of Morosini memorabilia at the Correr contending for patronage of Athens in destroyed; he had to settle for a marble
Museum.) Nevertheless, the sad truth is the western pediment, and the birth of lion from Piraeus, which you can now see
that elsewhere, if he is remembered at all, Athena in the eastern one. beside the gates of the Arsenal in Venice.
it is for a few odd personal quirks, and Morosini is almost universally
one tragic and infamous event. GREECE’S GOLDEN AGE blamed for the terrible damage to the
The historian and travel writer Jan The Parthenon was the supreme Acropolis; but honestly – if your city was
Morris, in her book The Venetian Empire, architectural masterpiece of Greece’s under siege, and the enemy had mortars
popularised two of these quirks: “He Golden Age. Now, of course, many of the and cannon, would you pack all your
dressed always in red from top to toe columns are missing or broken, the roof explosives into the most prominent target
and never went into action without his has collapsed, the cella is in fragments, in town? It’s enough to make a cat laugh –
cat beside him.” In the Correr show, the friezes are shattered, and only a and perhaps it did.
there were several portraits of Morosini few carved fragments remain on the
in red; and there was a mummified cat broken pediments. But when Morosini ABOUT THE WRITER
with a mummified mouse on exhibit as and his allied forces crossed from the JOE GARTMAN’s new book, Rome
well – the remains of his beloved pet Peloponnese into Attica, and began Through the Mist: Walks Among
Nini and one of her victims. besieging Ottoman-controlled Athens, the Fountains of the Eternal City,
Let us admit the quirks. However, the Parthenon, though 21 centuries is available from Toplight Books.
See more on Joe’s website at
to fully examine the event for which old, was still mostly intact. Perhaps the
www.joegartman.com
the world remembers him, we must Ottoman occupiers of Athens thought

HEADING TO
LE LANGHE
What to see to do in this beautiful part of Italy
Kate Wickers heads for adventure in Le Langhe and

picks out her top 10 highlights
Le Langhe is, of
course, most famous
for its wines
Images by Kate Wickers unless otherwise stated

I
n Italy there’s a saying, andare per Langa
(heading for Le Langhe), which is used
for when you’re off on an adventure. It
evokes the long winding roads of the
Langhe region of Piedmont, which is
UNESCO-listed for its natural beauty.
Compared with other Italian comely, green,
rural, hilltop-town-speckled landscapes
(Tuscany inevitably springs to mind), Le
Langhe remains pretty much off the tourist
map, still more popular with the Milanese than
with foreign visitors – and most who do come
are here for the wine and food.
Undoubtedly, Barolo wine and the coveted
black and white truffles will play a big part in
your stay, but burning off these indulgences can
be equally pleasurable amid this idyllic, rolling,
vine-strung countryside. Strike out for a walk
from a medieval town; wind up cobbled lanes
to visit a castle in the sky; or spend a morning
truffle hunting with a Lagotto Romagnolo pup.
Just like the wine and cuisine of this fairytale
region, every moment of exploration should be
oh-so slowly savoured.
Discover our Le Langhe Top 10…
1 2
3 4 5
6 7
8 9 10

1 Ride on a Vespa…
“WHEN YOU RIDE A VESPA, you
feel alive. You can smell the earth and
feel the sun and it is molto divertente
(great fun). But remember to take it
gently. This isn’t Napoli!”, enthuses and
warns Roberta Ferrero, who has a fleet of
these iconic scooters (and Fiat 500s) for
tourists to hire. If ever there was a life-
affirming experience, to make you feel
like a teenager again, hopping on a Vespa
to explore Le Langhe’s country roads is
one. Etched by vineyards, these winding
paths are blissfully tranquil, with just
the occasional farm vehicle to navigate
past. Kalitumba Travel will deliver a
bike and helmet right to the door of
your hotel, provide a navigation system
set with six routes to choose from, and
provide a booklet that lists restaurants, There’s nothing
like a Vespa to
places of cultural interest and winery
make you feel
recommendations for you to stop off at. young again
www.kalitumbatravel.com
Castello di
Serralunga
2 Stroll to a castle in the sky… d’Alba
THE HILLTOP TOWNS of Le Langhe are never

over-run with tourists, so you’ll often have the twisting,
cobbled streets to yourself. At Serralunga d’Alba these lead
to a soaring castle from the Middle Ages with views over
terracotta-tiled rooftops, and mile upon mile of vine-
strung countryside, where, through the famous Langhe
mists, I count three more towns, each topped with The village
of Guarene
grand baronial pads – the bricks and mortar evidence
of the once fierce competition between these fiefdoms.
Don’t miss 18th-century Guarene Castle (now a Relais Castello
& Châteaux hotel) with its fancy false windows (with Comunale
nothing but fresh air behind), which give an illusion Falletti di
of grandeur and height; or the Barolo
castles of Verduno and
Falletto, and other
grand houses, such
as Novello’s neo-
Gothic manor. Castello di Guarene,
now a hotel
Castello di
Gr inzane Ca
vour

Out on the hunt
for white gold
3 Spend time with a truffle hunter… Nebbiolo bianco?

STRIKING OUT with a trifalau (truffle hunter) is a The region of Piedmont is world-
wonderful way to learn about the Langhe countryside and its renowned for its red wines, Barolo
time-honoured traditions. Marta Menegaldo and her Lagotto and Barbaresco. But when it comes to
Romagnolo dog, Luna, of Bianco Tartufi, lead tours in woods the region’s white wines, though you
of wild hazelnut, hornbeam, and chestnut – and Luna is quick might be able to name one, could you
on the hunt, soon sniffing out the fruit (or spore) of this name two?
much-prized subterranean fungus. Although the ideal time for The first that comes to mind is Gavi
truffle hunting is from October through to December, different – a common sight on the wine shelves
varieties are found throughout the year. www.biancotartufi.it of high street and supermarket stores.
But how many will arrive at Arneis?
The Arneis grape variety has been
4 Hike from Monforte d’Alba… grown in Piedmont for many hundreds
of years, mainly in the Roero hills
Explore the region on foot northwest of Alba, but also on the
from Monforte to Dogliani hillsides surrounding the villages of
the Langhe.
It’s a tricky variety to grow: it
can lack acidity, it’s very fussy when
it comes to soil types, it becomes
over-ripe easily, and it’s prone to a
crop-depleting mildew. No surprise
then that Arneis translates from
Piedmontese dialect as ‘little rascal’.
A good Arneis will have a bountiful
MANY WALKING trails spread out from the attractive town of Monforte d’Alba, where the aroma of peaches, pears, almonds and
views are to snow-capped Monviso, the highest mountain of the Cottian Alps. Pick up a ‘Hills apricots, so do look out for it.
to Experience’ booklet at any tourist information bureau and choose your path, many of which
pass through vineyards, hazelnut groves, and small settlements such as Sinio and Roddino,
where green hills run down to Dogliani, which is divided in two, with Borgo flanking the Rea
stream on the valley floor, and medieval Castello, the old town, located 300 metres above.
Visit on a Tuesday and the town comes alive with farmers selling local produce, including
Image © Getty
Murazzano, a rich-tasting cheese made from sheep’s milk, and this area’s Dolcetto wine.
Arneis grapes
Although its name translates as ‘little sweet one’, don’t be fooled because the chocolate-like on the vine
sweetness masks a tingling tart undertone with lots of dark fruit flavour. www.langabarolo.it
5 Discover the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco…

THE LANGHE LANDSCAPE is awash with the rippling There’s plenty of
choice when you’re
vineyards of the Barolo and Barbaresco winemakers, who are
shopping for wine
celebrated around the world for their Nebbiolo grapes, which
have notes of violet, cherries and prune. In the town of Barolo,
the WiMu (wine museum) is housed in the 10th-century
Castello Falletti, the former home of the Falletti family, who
took up residency here in the 19th century and were the first
And plenty of opportunity
producers of Barolo, considered by many to be the ‘king of to learn about the wine
wines’. Here, you can have a wine-making history lesson, relax in
the cinema room that shows clips of wine-related films, gaze at
art installations inspired by wine, and enjoy a tasting at a wine
tourist’s temple. At the town of Grinzane Cavour, follow the
passeggiata ‘le vigne di Cavour’, which cuts through vineyards
at the base of the 16th-century Castello, with information
boards en route that tell of the region’s grape varieties. Of the
many wineries, the wine cellar at Fontanafredda, founded by
united Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuele II, is one of the most
interesting, dating back to 1858. For a guided tour and tasting,
book in advance. www.fontanafredda.it

Alba’s Cattedrale
di San Lorenzo
6 Explore Alba, the truffle capital of the world…

THE MAIN THOROUGHFARE, Vittorio Emanuele, is full of shops selling all things truffle
from the actual gnarly spores (in season), to truffle-infused oil, cheese and pasta. Alba lays claim
to the rare tuber magnatum pico (the Piedmontese white truffle), and during the peak of truffle
season, from October to December, the Fiera del Tartufo attracts thousands of visitors, who flock
here for the cooking shows, classes and tastings. A little more sedate is the lovely Earth Market
that runs alongside it, selling artisanal products from small producers and farmers – acacia honey,
roasted hazelnuts, polenta corn cakes and rosehip jam… For a moment of reflection pop into
Alba’s pink-brick cathedral with its candy-cane striped, terracotta and white pillars and blue star-
speckled vaulted ceilings, dedicated to (no surprises here) San Lorenzo, the patron saint of chefs.
www.fieradeltartufo.it The m
attra ain
The town of Alba ction
is an adventure
in itself
Market produce
to marvel at
7 Embrace slow food… 8 Eat Michelin-starred…

PIEDMONT HAS THE SECOND highest concentration
of Michelin-stars in Italy (Lombardy just pips it at the
post), with the town of Alba boasting the most. Book well
in advance to sit in Enrico Crippa’s pink frescoed dining
room at Piazza del Duomo, famous for its ‘21’, ‘31’ and
‘51’ ingredient salads that showcase seasonal snapshots of
Piedmont. Downstairs, sister restaurant La Piola is more
Bra is the home of Slow relaxed and budget-friendly, while the focus remains on
Food
Most of the food you
sourcing season-appropriate ingredients for homemade pastas
will eat here is local
and creamy risottos (try the pumpkin with chestnuts). Or
IT WAS IN THE TOWN OF sit amid rolling vineyards to dine at La Ciau del Tornavento,
BRA (famous for its herby veal in the hilltop town Treiso, situated in the heart of Le Lange,
sausage) that the Slow Food with its well-priced tasting menu, which can be paired with
Movement began as a reaction local wines. www.guide.michelin.com
to the opening of Italy’s first
McDonald’s in 1986. Slow food
(look for the snail icon on menus)
is all about promoting traditional,
seasonal, sustainable and local
food, which is why chestnuts and
hazelnuts feature so prominently in recipes (90 per cent of the
world’s hazelnuts are grown in this region, which is also home to
Image © Getty
Ferrero Rocher). Try silky strands of tajarin ‘40 egg yolk’ pasta
with sage and Bra sausage at Osteria del Boccondivino, and round This is very
off lunch off with torta di nocciole, a buttery sweet hazelnut cake, much risotto
served with zabaglione cream. www.osteriadellarco.it country

9 Visit the Cappella del Barolo… WHERE TO STAY
CASA DI LANGA
ONE OF THE MOST Località Talloria, 1 – Cerreto Langhe
UNEXPECTED sights www.casadilanga.com
amid the vineyards of A five-star hotel of grand design
this amazing region, is that mirrors Piedmont’s traditional
the Cappella del Barolo, architecture. It has a gourmet restaurant,
a never consecrated an infinity pool, a spa, and it nestles in
100-year-old chapel built Hello, it ’s that 42 hectares of forest.
on land owned by the Vespa again!
CÀ SAN PONZIO
winemaking Ceretti family. Via Rittane, 7 – Frazione Vergne
In the late 1990s, Bruno www.casanponzio.com
Ceretti invited the American A charming farmhouse with rooms out
artist Sol LeWitt to jazz up in the countryside close to Barolo. It
the exterior, which he did in has a pool, lovely gardens, and the
eye-popping primary colours breakfasts are lavish.
shaped into wavy patterns to La Cappella de
l Barolo VINCAFE
mimic the surrounding hills. Via Vittorio Emanuele, 12 – Alba
The equally uplifting interior www.vincafe.com
was designed by the British Nice rooms and suites above a lively café
artist David Tremlett, who and lounge bar in the heart of Alba.
used earthy tones, bone-
white and green-grey marble, GETTING THERE
and glass from Murano. The ➤ Turin Airport is a 90-minute drive
artists’ services were paid for away and direct flights are aplenty
with a good supply of wine from many UK Airports, including
(specifically, a case of the British Airways (Gatwick), EasyJet
best Barolo every year for (from Bristol, Gatwick, Luton, and
the rest of their lives). Avoid Manchester), and Jet2 (Edinburgh and
Birmingham). Alternatively, fly direct to
weekends as the rural road to Genoa or Milan Malpensa airports, both
La Cappella as
get here can be very busy. seen in its setting a two-hour drive away.
10 Try a time-honoured trattoria…

DO GO OUT in the evening and eat with locals and other tourists at a
family-run restaurant like Trattoria della Posta, which is close to town of
Monforte d’Alba. This particular restaurant was established as a rest house
and stables for passing travellers in 1875 by Sabino Massolino (who was the
current owner’s great-grandfather), and although it may have come a long
way in terms of fancy silverware and expert sommeliers, in the kitchen chef
Gianfranco and his team remain true to cooking the classic Langhe recipes
his great grandpa served up. Try the buttery gnocchi with sage, followed by
calf cheek braised in – what else? – Barolo.
www.trattoriadellaposta.it Eat out at
Trattoria della Posta
wickers.kate
The best restaurants are

not always in the most
obvious places

LEADERS
OF THE PACK
From its mythical role in the formation of Rome to its presence in the wild today, the wolf
is an iconic symbol of Italy. Jenny Oldaker goes on the trail of this elusive predator.
Image © Alessandro Barbieri

N
o animal in Italy is quite so culturally significant – or
so divisive – as the wolf, and myths surrounding the
creature date back to the Ancient Romans and beyond.
Evidence of wolf cults among ancient tribes, Etruscan
wolf-like gods such as Calu, and the pagan Lupercalia
festival – whose name derives from the Latin word ‘lupus’ (wolf ) – all
bear testament to the animal’s enduring symbolic influence.
It’s in the tale of the founding of Rome, however, that

the wolf really takes centre stage in the Italian story.
The legend goes that the founders of the city, Romulus
and Remus, were rescued and suckled by a she-wolf
after being thrown into the Tiber River by King
Clockwise
Amulius. The myth has long been a powerful symbol
from left:
for the city – the twins’ father was Mars, so the image
of the babies being nurtured by a wolf represents the The wolf is central
sons of the God of War absorbing animal strength to the mythology
from a powerful predator. of Rome, and by
Or, as Terry Jones puts it in his 2007 book extension Italy
Barbarians: An Alternative Roman History, ‘The
The Capitoline Wolf
Romans did not see [the tale of Romulus, Remus sucking Romulus
and the she-wolf ] as a charming story; they meant and Remus, the
to show that they had imbibed wolfish appetites mythical founders
and ferocity with their mother’s milk.’ The story has of Rome
inspired countless artworks; the Capitoline She-Wolf
in Bronze in the Musei Capitolini is the most famous, The she-wolf
suckling Romulus
but artists from Rubens to Carracci have committed and Remus as
the story to canvas too, and it continues to capture the depicted by Peter
artistic imagination; modern interpretations include a Paul Rubens
fabulous 1928 wire sculpture by Alexander Calder at Peter Paul Rubens Romulus
and Remus, 1615–1616, oil
the Guggenheim, New York. on canvas, 210 × 212 cm.
Public Domain, image via
Google Cultural Institute
OUR REACTION
This rich historical symbolism, coupled with its role
in European folklore and fairytales as the archetypal
villain, has contributed to the wolf ’s reputation today,
and has affected our reaction to the animal. ‘The wolf
carries a strong cultural imagery,’ agrees Francesco
Romito of conservation NGO Io non ho paura del
lupo (I’m not afraid of the wolf ). ‘It is not only one
of the most important predators of European forests,
but is also an animal that over the centuries, in culture
The image represents the sons

of the God of War absorbing
animal strength
and religion, has taken various forms: there are those
who have hated it, there are those who have made it
special. The issue of culture remains central to wolf
conservation, and today it is an animal we need to
work with, and to address its imagery in our heads.’
Thankfully for wolves in Italy, organisations
like Francesco’s are taking on this work and helping
counter the animal’s public reputation. Having been
driven to the brink of extinction during the course
of the 20th century, conservationists intervened

There are still major challenges faced by Italian

wolf populations, and their growing numbers
have brought problems
Image courtesy of Umberto Esposito, Wildlife Adventures

and wolves were first given legal protection in Italy
in the 1970s. Their numbers started to recover soon
after and have been steadily rising, and their ranges
increasing. ‘Today you’ll find wolf populations all over
Italy, except on the islands,’ explains Angela Tavone
of Rewilding Apennines, an organisation dedicated
to the rewilding movement in this part of Italy. ‘They
are doing well according to the latest census (in 2021),
which estimated more than 3,300 animals in our
country. If you consider that 50 years ago there were
only around 100 left in the Central Apennines,
their recovery is definitely a success!’
THE PRICE OF SUCCESS

Such success doesn’t come without a price, however.
There are still major challenges faced by Italian wolf
populations, and their growing numbers have brought
problems: the presence of wolf populations in an area
can ignite ancient prejudices, and unlawful persecution
such as poaching and poisoning is still rife. The most
Image © Francesco Romito

critical issue, however, is the relationship between
livestock owners and wolves – even with protection
wolves can prove a risk to grazing animals and, as a
result, to farmers’ livelihoods. Indeed, incidences of
wolf predation on sheep and other animals is often
cited as the main obstacle standing between successful
wolf-human coexistence.
Clockwise
As such, there is a pressing need to work with from left:
livestock owners, and conservation organisations such

as Io non ho paura del lupo have placed this issue at the A wolf in the snow
forefront of their work, stating that ‘the future of the of Abruzzo. In some
wolf in Italy and Europe is today inextricably linked rural communities
to the relationship it has with the world of shepherds the wolf is still
seen as an enemy
and breeders.’ The organisation places communication and unlawful
and collaboration at the heart of its work, and aims persecution such
to support breeders – and other groups likely to have as poaching and
direct contact with wolves – through meaningful poisoning is rife
action and direct initiatives.
Examples include the ‘wool for the wolf ’ plan, Monitoring wolves.
‘The wolf is a
which recovers wool from small breeders, saving them indigenous species,
the cost of disposal, then creating pieces from the but its reputation
material and using proceeds from their sale towards is sinister,
the purchase of protection for the breeders. State so objective
compensation is also available for farmers who have information
been affected by wolf attacks, though it can be a slow is essential,’
says Umberto
process to claim funds and doesn’t cover the wider
Esposito of travel
damage caused by these incidents. While the problem company Wildlife
is far from being solved, it is very much at the forefront Adventures
of the work of wolf conservationists and new strides
are being made all the time in helping farmers and Tracking wolves
wolves coexist more successfully in Italy. in Abruzzo with
Wildlife Adventures
THE CULTURE OF POISONING
Angela is positive about the wolf ’s current status and
the projects in place, but knows there is a long way to
go: ‘Some people are still pushing to “manage” the wolf
population; the culture of poisoning is still widespread
and some citizens still see the wolves as antagonists
of their economic activities and want to get rid

Beyond the scare stories, the existence of wolves

in Italy is something to celebrate in terms of the
wider environment
Image © Stefano Manfredini

ANIMAL SYMBOLISM
of them (especially in the north of Italy, where the
wolves returned more recently). So, it is not possible to
Find out more
The wolf has been adopted as relax yet, and communication and education is always Io non ho paura del lupo
an unofficial national symbol, needed.’ Francesco agrees that education is important Organisation dedicated to ensuring the
but it is not the only animal among communities who have little knowledge of the conservation of the wolf in Italy and
with historical significance… wolf and are largely informed by media hysteria and Europe, and its successful coexistence with
➤ THE LION – often erroneous – fears about the species. ‘Growing human activities.
The winged lion of Venice misinformation jeopardises the wolf ’s acceptance by www.iononhopauradellupo.it
represents the city’s patron the population, and our aim is to mitigate the negative
saint, Mark, and is a symbol reputation of this creature at all costs.’ Rewilding Apennines
of the city’s power and Umberto Esposito of travel company Wildlife Rewilding Apennines works with the
identity that goes back Adventures believes that the Italian members of the European Rewilding
hundreds of years. The lion trips run by his company Network to boost the country’s rewilding
is also associated with and other responsible travel movement.
Florence – the Marzocco organisations can be vital in www.rewilding-apennines.com
is the heraldic lion, educating people about the
symbolising the power of life and role of the wolf in Italy Wildlife Adventures
the Florentine Republic. The Lion of Venice
today: ‘The wolf is a indigenous Nature-based tourism company, offering
The first Marzocco species,’ says Umberto, ‘but experiences that promote green tourism,
sculpture is thought to date its reputation is sinister, so objective information is supporting wildlife conservation and
back to the 14th century. essential, and with our experiences we aim to share developing environmental education. Its
awareness both in and out of the national parks.’ trips include the chance to track wolves and
➤ THE EAGLE
Beyond the scare stories and reputational negativity learn more about the animals in Abruzzo.
The eagle represented
the existence of wolves in Italy www.wildlifeadventures.it
strength and immortality
is something to celebrate in
in Ancient Rome, with the
terms of the wider environment, European Alliance for Wolf Conservation
Aquila emblem associated
as their very presence is an (EAWC)
with the empire, including
indicator of the good health of A coalition of NGOs advocating for the
as the standard for the
the ecosystem. use of preventive non-lethal means to
Roman legion.
The Roman Eagle
‘Wolves are at the top achieve co-existence with wolves, in
➤ THE SPARROW of the food chain and as accordance with the protection granted
Perhaps surprisingly, such can regulate the number and distribution of by the EU Habitats Directive and the Bern
Italy’s national bird is not a their prey, such as wild boar, roe deer and red deer Convention.
powerhouse bird of prey like and, consequently, these herbivores’ pressure on www.wolf-alliance.org
the eagle, but the Italian the landscape,’ says Angela Tavone of Rewilding
sparrow (Passer italiae). Apennines. ‘So, according to the Life Wolf Alps EU
This little bird is common concept of trophic cascades, the Project that aims to improve wolf-human
across the country, though wolves can ultimately shape the coexistence through a participatory
it is hard to classify – landscape for the better.’ approach, with the goal of guaranteeing
thoughts are divided as to At the end of the day the long-term conservation of transboundary
whether it’s a subspecies wolf isn’t a villain. As Umberto wolf populations in Alpine countries.
of the house sparrow, or points out, ‘To conserve it, we www.lifewolfalps.eu
The Italian sparrow
the Spanish sparrow, or a really need to see it for what it
hybridisation of the two. is: neither a good nor a bad animal, but one that has jen_writes_things
➤ THE SNAKE an important role in our ecosystem and
The biscione (big grass which is fundamental to maintaining an
snake) is a heraldic symbol of ecological balance.’
Milan, showing a serpent

devouring a person. The The Snake of Milan
snake was an icon of the
Visconti family who rose
to power in the city in the
Middle Ages. Today it can be
seen in local organisations
from Inter Milan football Right: On the look
out – and the listen
club to Alfa Romeo cars,
out – for wolves
whose manufacturer is on an excursion
based in the city. with Wildlife
Adventures

S P E A K I TA L I A !
GAZZETTA ITALIA!
In this edition of our bilingual
feature, Tom Alberto Bull ITALIANO
APPREZZATE
looks at how Italians are GLI AVANZI!
saving money by turning to
Davanti all’aumento dei costi dell’energia e del cibo, tutti noi abbiamo dovuto
old techniques in the kitchen
pensare a modi per ridurre le nostre spese dove possibile. In Italia la gente ha
cominciato a ripensare a ciò che mangia, il che ha causato una rinascita dei metodi
tradizionali di cottura e di piatti che erano stati inventati in tempi più poveri.
KEY WORDS
Useful Italian words and phrases I contenitori per la cucina a basso consumo energetico sono un esempio di come
to add to your vocabulary ridurre il consumo del gas. Queste scatole sono imbottite di paglia o di lana e hanno
Il aumento dei costi una forma perfetta per coprire una pentola di metallo. Si usa sempre il fornello
Rising costs per iniziare la cottura, ma quando il cibo ha raggiunto una temperatura molto alta
Dove possibile lo si può trasferire nel contenitore dove lo si lascia per qualche ora – pensate ad
Where possible una moderna pentola a cottura lenta senza la spina elettrica – e in questo modo si
I metodi tradizionali possono preparare vari piatti come gli spezzatini.
Traditional methods
In modo simile, il fisico e vincitore del premio Nobel Professor Giorgio Parisi ha
Il consumo del gas
Gas consumption suscitato polemiche dopo aver consigliato un sistema alternativo per cucinare la
pasta. Che cosa ha suggerito? Mettere la pasta in acqua bollente e scaldarla per
In modo simile
In similar fashion due minuti. “Poi si può spegnere il gas, chiudere la pentola con un coperchio e
calcolare un minuto in più rispetto al tempo di cottura indicato.” Ma, come sempre, i
Spegnere il gas
tradizionalisti sono rimasti indifferenti, affermando che con questo metodo la pasta
Turn off the gas
rimane gommosa e che non potrebbe mai essere servita nei ristoranti di alta qualità.
La generazione post-bellica
The post-war generation
Gli italiani si sono ispirati anche alla creatività della generazione post-bellica per
La cucina del riciclo quanto riguarda la cosidetta ‘cucina del riciclo’: riutilizzare ogni avanzo di cibo, che
Recycling cuisine
sia pasta, riso, polenta, carne o pesce per creare piatti completamente nuovi. Oltre
Il avanzo di cibo ad andare sicuramente bene per l’ambiente, la cucina del riciclo può anche essere
Leftover food
vantaggiosa per la tasca, tanto è vero che molti oramai cucinano appositamente
Vantaggiosa per la tasca quantità eccessive di cibo così da farlo durare per due pasti anziché uno solo.
Good for the pocket
Con l’aggiunta di Pertanto la pasta avanzata può diventare una frittata con l’aggiunta di uova
With the addition of e parmigiano; con il risotto avanzato si fanno dei timballi con ripieno di ragù,
Le patate bollite mozzarella o pesto creando gli arancini; la carne può essere tritata per fare delle
Boiled potatoes polpette con pane e uova; le patate bollite si schiacciano e si mischiano con avanzi
Per saziare l’appetito di formaggio, prosciutto e verdure per essere poi cotte di nuovo a gratin, alla
To sate the appetitie napoletana. Per saziare l’appetito sempre più forte del pubblico per questo tipo di
Programmi televisivi cucina, sono apparsi vari blog, canali You-tube e programmi televisivi, mentre molti
Television programmes ristoranti hanno cominciato a offrire corsi di cucina per gruppi di cuochi entusiasti.
Godetevi i vostri avanzi!
Enjoy your leftovers! Questo approccio diventa sempre più diffuso anche nel Regno Unito. E allora, come
fanno molti altri, godetevi i vostri avanzi! Buon appetito!

Arancini ar
e great
meal recycl
ers
ENGLISH
LOVE YOUR Cooking in batches
tim e, mo ne y an d en
saves
ergy
LEFTOVERS! Would you cook

pasta with a lid on?
Faced with rising energy costs and food inflation, we have all had to think of ways
to save money where possible. In Italy, people have begun to think about is what
they eat. This has led to a resurgence of traditional cooking methods and dishes
that were devised in poorer times.
Energy-saving cooking containers are one example of how to reduce the use of gas.
These boxes are insulated with straw or wool and are shaped to perfectly cover a
metal pot. The stove is still used to start the cooking, but once the food is piping
hot it can be placed in the container and sealed for a number of hours – think of a
modern slow-cooker minus the plug socket – and can be used to produce a variety
of dishes such as stews.
In similar fashion, the physicist and Nobel Prize winner Professor Giorgio Parisi
caused controversy after putting forward an alternative way to cook pasta. His
suggestion? To add pasta to boiling water and heat for just two minutes. “Then
you can turn off the gas, put the lid on and calculate one minute longer than the
indicated cooking time.” But, as always, the traditionalists weren’t impressed,
Yesterday’s spaghetti
saying that it made the pasta rubbery and that it could never be served in high- in an omelette
quality restaurants.
Italians have also taken inspiration from the post-war generation’s

inventiveness in what has been dubbed the ‘recycling cuisine’: re-utilising
any leftover food, be it pasta, rice, polenta, meat or fish, to create entirely new
dishes. While cooking with leftovers is obviously good for the environment, it
can also be good for the pocket, so much so that many people now deliberately
cook food in excess of what they need and make it last for two meals rather
than one.
Thus leftover pasta can be made into a pasta omelette with the addition of eggs
and parmesan; excess risotto is shaped into balls, filled with ragù, mozzarella or
pesto and turned into arancini; meat is minced and made into rissoles with bread
and eggs; boiled potatoes are mashed then mixed with scraps of cheese, ham and
vegetables and re-cooked au gratin, Neapolitan style. To sate the public’s growing
appetite for this type of cooking, food blogs, Youtube channels and television
shows have sprung up, while many restaurants have begun offering cooking
lessons to groups of enthusiastic cooks.
And the re
st can
always go
This practice is now becoming popular in the UK too. So like many others, enjoy in a soup
your leftovers! Buon appetito!

The rich colours

The bilancia
of the night
fishing nets Allison Zurfluh Midnight,
of the lagoon oil on burlap
Photo by Alessandro Tagliapietra

Allison Zurfluh paints at Isola Santa Cristina
connecting with the natural landscape in solitude
View over Santa Isola Exploration of the
Christina at sunset lagoon landscape
Allison Zurfluh Baptism,
oil on linen, 30 x 50 cm

Light & life
in the lagoon
We meet artist Allison Zurfluh, who is raising awareness
of the fragile Venice lagoon, one brush stroke at a time
Ancient and mysterious, the Venice lagoon has a compelling beauty all
its own. But this wetland beauty is fragile and under increasing threat,
as anyone who has visited Venice will be aware. We spent a delightful
half an hour in the company of artist Allison Zurfluh (you’ll find her on
Instagram @allisonzurfluh_artist) and she explained just how delicate
the balance of its eco-system is, why we should all care about its
preservation and how it informs her art.
Eloquently and passionately dedicated to the conservation and
sustainability of this precious eco-system and the preservation of local
lagoon life and ancestral traditions, Allison finds her greatest creative
Photo by Alessandro Tagliapietra

inspiration in the natural world. Based in Burano, she can often be found
navigating her own boat around the northern Venetian Lagoon, and setting
up her easel in remote spots such as Isola Santa Cristina. She creates her
evocative oil paintings on linen and burlap, as she prefers the textures and
hues a rough thread canvas can give.
Two recent exhibitions – ‘Let Wild Run Free’ at the Venissa wine estate
on the island of Mazzorbo in 2022, and ‘Laguna Veneta, a paradise in peril’
and ‘Burlap of Gold’ scheduled for April 2024, also in Zurich – all express
Allison Zurfluh
aspects of her heartfelt connection to the lagoon, its landscape and
at Isola Santa
people. Through the layers of rugged colour on her canvasses, particularly Cristina, Venice
in her ‘Laguna Knitted’ series, the truth becomes plain to see as Allison
challenges us to consider the consequences of climate change, mass Capturing light
tourism and other commercial imperatives on this beautiful environment. and movement
Allison’s connection to the lagoon runs deep – in practical, as well as Allison Zurfluh Barena del
Vigno, oil on linen,
artistic expression. She spent the day before our conversation with one 30 x 50 cm
of the local Buranelli fishermen, Massimo, hunting down and catching
the latest threat to the lagoon – a natural one, but a dangerous invasion
nonetheless. Blue king crabs first appeared in 2016 – brought to the
lagoon by ships and on the tides – and they are now threatening the very
existence of native species, such as vongole and the renowned moeche or
Mediterranean soft-shell green crab. It’s a real problem for the fishermen,
as Allison explains: “If the fishermen don’t fish them aggressively now, in
two years everything will be gone. They have no predators and multiply
three to four times faster than the native species here.”
Over the winter, she spent a lot of time fishing with Massimo, learning
the traditional techniques and understanding more about the lagoon itself
from the perspective of those who have earned their livelihood from it for
generations. “I can say I became an apprentice,” she says, learning about
the eco-system first-hand as they took his boat out on the waters. Living
Images by Allison Zurfluh unless otherwise stated
on Burano and being part of the island community means that Allison
speaks from experience about daily challenges to the local environment.
“Being out [in the lagoon]
is so grounding,” she says, Allison Zurfluh and
the Venice Lagoon costs €35,
“and you realise what’s
plus shipping. To order a copy
important. I want to write and and to see more of Allison’s
communicate about the lagoon oil and watercolour art, visit
in a way that I hope comes www.allisonzurfluhartist.ch
across as humble, because allisonzurfluh_artist
I feel that way about it.”

P A S T I TA L I A !

ITALIAN
OLIVES
In Italy, the olive harvest begins in October
and continues until January, depending on
the variety and the region it is grown in
A
s far as we know, the olive has been
domesticated for something in the range of
6,000 to 8,000 years, which would make it
one of the earliest foodstuffs to be deliberately farmed.
(The olive may well have been foraged for much
longer than this.) This domestication first happened
in the eastern Mediterranean, probably in the Levant,
and spread from there to Greece, and thence to Italy
and beyond. So it’s an imported foodstuff, as far as
Italy is concerned. But what the Italians can, perhaps,
be credited with is the use of olive oil as a foodstuff.
Prior to olive cultivation on the Italian peninsula, the
oil was mostly used for lamps and various anointing
ceremonies, not for consumption.

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16 pages
Taste
Try authentic and modern recipes, a malfatti masterclass,
of delicious crisp white wines from Lake Garda and more!
Italian food
and drink
Cook
Pomegranates &
Artichokes
Dishes from Iran to Italy
p 60
Marroni (sweet
chestnuts) are
always a sign
Four takes on Polenta
of autumn Our new recipe series
p 64
Malfatti Masterclass
Mateo Zielonka’s step-by-step guide
p70
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Fragrant fennel biscotti
p72
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Italian veg and herb seeds
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C O O K I TA L I A !
Iranian writer Saghar Setereh celebrates the food of her

adopted homeland with four delicious Italian dishes
Rustic savoury pie 2 Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. Peel the
Torta rustica / salata

potatoes, then mash them in a bowl. Mix in the pecorino, parsley,
salt, and a few generous sprinkles of freshly ground black pepper.
3 Use half the butter to properly grease the bottom and sides of a
➤ SERVES 4-6 ➤ PREPARATION 15 minutes ➤ COOKING 1 hour 20-22cm pie dish. Dust the dish with half the breadcrumbs, swirling
them all around and tapping underneath to make sure it’s all well
Like most of my other Italian home-cooking experiences, I first discovered coated, so the pie doesn’t stick.
the world of savoury pies when I was sharing an apartment with other 4 Spread half the potato mash in the bottom of the dish, evening it
students, most of whom were from southern Italy. out. With the back of a spoon, push down eight regularly spaced
indents in the mash, around the dish, to make a space for the eggs.
• 1kg potatoes • 4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled Sprinkle the eggs with salt and place a half, cut side down, in each
• 100g pecorino or parmesan, grated and cut in half lengthways indent. It should look like a simple daisy flower now. Evenly scatter
• 2 tbsp finely chopped parsley • 100-150g dry spicy the diced salami and cheese around, pushing them down lightly.
• ½ tsp salt, plus extra for sprinkling salami, diced 5 Cover with the remaining mash, using your hands to make an
Photography by Saghar Setareh
• 40g butter, softened • 100g provolone, fontina even surface and filling out the edges. Dust the surface with the
• 2 tbsp dry breadcrumbs or cheddar, diced remaining breadcrumbs, then dot the remaining butter around.
Bake for 20 minutes, then cook for another 10 minutes under
1 Wash the potatoes well, leaving the skin on. Add the whole potatoes to a the oven grill for a golden topping.
saucepan with enough water to cover them. Bring to the boil, then cook 6 Remove from the oven and let the pie cool in the pie dish for at least
until a toothpick can spear them easily. Drain, then leave until just cool 30 minutes, before carefully transferring it to a chopping board and
enough to handle. slicing to serve.

Pork roast with
pears and chestnuts
Arrosto di maiale con
pere e castagne
➤ SERVES 4-6
➤ PREPARATION 30 minutes
➤ COOKING 90 minutes
The match of savoury pork meat with sweet

fruit is one made in heaven, as is lamb and
fruit, which is quite common in the Middle
East, Iran and even the Balkans. Apicius,
the legendary ancient Roman gourmand
who lived in the 1st century AD, has a
recipe for Parthian (Persian) lamb in his
celebrated cookbook De Re Coquinaria.
There’s debate on whether it was actually
a Persian recipe, or he was referring to a
particular spice from Persia, but what
interests me most is the use of prunes in
that lamb recipe. The book also has recipes
of wild boar with fruit, and mentions
prunes as a main condiment for poultry —
which to this day is very common in Iran.
Our pork roast, or arista, which is
exceptionally popular in Tuscany, goes well
with many fruits, from apples and pears in
autumn, to prunes and apricots in summer,
and even pomegranates and blueberries.
It’s a much simpler recipe than it appears,
making it a suitable choice for gatherings
and holiday meals.
• 300g fresh chestnuts (see tip)

• 50-100g pancetta or bacon, thinly
•
sliced
1kg pork loin, with some fat on Our pork roast goes well with
• 3 large beurre bosc or kaiser pears (or
any type suitable for baking)
apples and pears, prunes and
• 2 French shallots, peeled and cut into
wedges
apricots, and even pomegranates
• 2 fresh rosemary sprigs and blueberries
• 60ml white wine
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 1 tsp salt
1 Using a sharp knife, carve an incision in the skin may also ask your butcher to prepare the loin for then turn the oven down to
of the chestnuts. Cook them in boiling water for you in this way.) 180°C/Gas Mark 4. Baste the pork with the pan
20-30 minutes. Drain them in a colander, then 3 Core the pears (I like to leave the skin on) and juices, toss in the chestnuts and roast for
run them under cold water until cool enough to cut each into four wedges. Peel the shallots, another 35-45 minutes. Remember that the
handle. Peel the chestnuts, discarding the skin, leaving the roots intact, and cut each into four roasting time here is for a 1kg pork loin, so
and set aside. wedges as well. In a roasting tin, toss the pear adjust the cooking time based on the weight of
2 Preheat the oven to 220°C/Gas Mark 7. Neatly and shallot wedges with the rosemary sprigs, your pork.
arrange the pancetta slices crossways over the wine, olive oil, salt, and freshly ground black 5 Remove the roast from the oven. Cover with foil
lean side of the pork loin, so they overlap a bit. pepper to taste. Gently roll the pork loin over all and leave to rest for 30 minutes before very
Press the pancetta onto the meat; this is where the seasonings in the pan, rubbing them into thinly slicing and serving with the chestnuts,
the pork will get its seasoning from. Now the pork to take up the flavours. Make space for pear and shallot. Crusty bread to mop up the
carefully tie the meat with butcher’s twine, the pork in the middle of the pan, then nestle it juices is a must — and so is red wine.
several times crossways and twice lengthways, inside the wedges, pancetta side up. Rub some
to secure the pancetta slices, and to keep the of the seasoned oil from the pan all over it. TIP If fresh chestnuts aren’t available, use
roast nice and snug so it will cook evenly. (You 4 Transfer to the oven and roast for 30 minutes, 200g frozen or parboiled chestnuts.

Midnight
spaghetti with
garlic, chilli and
olive oil
Ajo, ojo e
peperoncino
➤ SERVES 4-6
This is a favourite all over Italy for its

convenience and speed. Curiously, when I
was in Milan, a Neapolitan guy whipped up
another spaghettata with anchovies,
garlic and walnuts, and said this was what
students there made at midnight.
• salt, for seasoning the pasta water

• 500g spaghetti
• 125ml good-quality olive oil
• 3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
• ¼-½ tsp chilli flakes, or 1 red chilli,
finely chopped, seeds included
• 50g dry breadcrumbs
1 Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil

and season generously with salt. Add the
spaghetti. We’re going to cook it very al
dente, only for half the time recommended
on the packet.
2 So, you have about 5 minutes to add the oil
to a large (but not necessarily very deep)
pan with the garlic and chilli (but don’t turn
the heat on yet; just let the oil and spices
get to know each other). Meanwhile, toast
the breadcrumbs in a small frying pan for a
minute or two, until fragrant and lightly
browned, then tip into a little bowl.
3 Set the heat under the pan with the oil, chilli
and garlic to medium-low. Be very careful not
to burn the garlic, as it’ll get a nasty
aftertaste that will ruin the dish.
4 When your spaghetti is two-thirds cooked,
save about 750ml-1 litre) of the cooking
water. Drain the spaghetti and immediately
add it to the pan of oil on blazing high heat
and give it a stir with a wooden spoon (or even
better, a pair of kitchen tongs).
5 Add 250ml of the cooking water and stir
vigorously for a minute. Keep stirring for
about 4-5 minutes, then add the remaining
cooking water little by little, until you get a
silky, creamy sauce that is still too wet to
serve; keep in mind that it’ll keep drying up
after you take the pan off the heat.
6 Mix in half the toasted breadcrumbs. Dish up
the spaghetti quickly, sprinkle each bowl with
more breadcrumbs, drizzle over a bit more oil
and serve immediately. No cheese needed.

Strawberry tiramisù 1 Hull the strawberries, then cut into quarters and the egg whites until white and stiff; adding a
with Marsala place in a bowl. Dress with the lemon juice,

Marsala and sugar. Cover and leave to macerate
tablespoon of something acidic like lemon juice
helps. In a circular movement, very delicately
Tiramisù alle fragole

for at least 2 hours – or better still, overnight in fold the egg whites into the mascarpone cream.
the fridge – until the strawberries are sitting in a 4 Set out six to eight nice-looking cups, or fancy
pool of sweet, slightly tangy crimson liquid. little glasses. Add a dollop of the mascarpone
➤ SERVES 6-8 Strain the strawberry liquid into a deep dish cream into the bottom of each cup, then spoon
➤ PREPARATION 15 minutes, 2 hours in advance large enough to roll the biscuits in, and set the in some strawberries. Roll a biscuit a few times
➤ CHILLING 4 hours strawberries aside. in the strawberry juice and let it absorb the
2 Whisk the egg yolks with the sugar and lemon liquid at its leisure. Break the biscuit into pieces
• 4 free-range eggs, separated zest using an electric mixer until pale and fluffy. so that it fits in the cup, pushing down a bit to
• 4 tbsp sugar (see note) No sugar grains should be felt if you rub the fill any gaps. Add more strawberries, then a
• zest of 1 unwaxed lemon creamy mixture between your fingers. Gently mix good dollop of mascarpone cream, and repeat.
• 400g mascarpone in the mascarpone until smooth. Before finishing with one last layer of
• 16 savoiardi (lady finger 3 Using a clean whisk and a very clean bowl, whip mascarpone cream, gently tap each cup on your
biscuits), approximately work surface to settle the ingredients, so that
FOR THE STRAWBERRIES empty spaces are not left in the middle.
• 500g strawberries 5 Cover each cup loosely with foil and
• juice of 1 lemon chill in the fridge for about 4 hours
• 3 tbsp sweet Marsala before serving, so that the
• 3 tbsp sugar mascarpone cream sets. They are
then best served straight away.
TIP The simple ratio for this

recipe is 4 eggs, 4 tbsp sugar and
400g mascarpone.
Chill in the fridge

for four hours, so
the mascarpone
cream sets
These recipes are taken

from Pomegranates +
Artichokes: Recipes and
memories of a journey
from Iran to Italy by
Saghar Setareh (Murdoch
Books, £26). Photography
by Saghar Setareh

Polenta
pizza
POLENTA
margherita
A staple with ancient origins, polenta has now

found favour around the world. Mario Matassa
demonstrates how wonderfully versatile it can be
I
fondly remember sitting
Text, images and recipes by Mario Matassa

at the table in a provincial
kitchen talking to a
local farmer about his
Grilled childhood memories
polenta while his wife added the finishing
with cime touches to lunch. Polenta was on
di rapa the agenda – and the menu.
As a child, he had eaten
it daily. It was the staple of
necessity of the rural community
in Italy not so long back. He
remembered how he would sit
by the fire, hungry and waiting, as his mother stirred the copper
pot continuously. When the food was ready, everyone would
run to the table as she hefted the contents of the paiolo onto a
wooden board. She served it soft, dressed simply with cheese
Polenta with and butter – in better times with a meat ragù. But when times
black bean and were especially rough it would be just the polenta, with a little
spicy sausage childish imagination for flavour.
stew Polenta is perhaps one of the oldest dishes known to Italy.
Made originally from any pulse – often a mix of spelt and rye –
it was boiled to a thick gruel, with cheese or herbs added when
they were available. The polenta we know today is made from
maize flour or corn (gran turco) and was imported to Europe
from America in the 16th century. Readily available, it became
the staple food of the poor, a symbol of cucina povera.
Today, polenta has achieved a popularity that extends way
beyond Italian national borders. Just like pasta and rice, it is a
staple that is versatile, inexpensive and offers endless culinary
opportunity for practically any occasion. That said, unless you
live high in the mountains, Italians tend not to eat polenta in the
summer months. It’s considered a comfort food of the highest
order – and they love it – but it is best cooked on cooler days.
Almond
Chips and pizza
Selecting four recipes for polenta was not an easy task. As I said,
crumble its versatility is such that it is used in Italy for any course, ranging
cake from a simple antipasto, a hearty piato unico – a dish that serves
both as a first and a second course – to a light lunch, a snack, an
extra on the barbecue, and a wide range of desserts. It’s even used
pastastories to make chips and pizza!

The recipes I have selected here Modern polenta is made
illustrate this point. A classic pizza with maize flour or corn
margherita for the kids, a light lunch of
crispy polenta cakes with cime di rapa
and an indulgent creamy gorgonzola
sauce, a main course of soft polenta and
black bean and spicy Italian sausage stew.
Finally, to finish, a sbrisolona cake – a type
of crumble cake – which is traditionally
made using half polenta and half plain
flour. The origins of this simple cake date
back centuries and it’s always a pleasure
enjoying it with a glass of sweet white
wine after dinner and watching a group
of Italians arguing about whether it
originated in the provinces of Mantova or
Cremona in Lombardy or just across the
border in my home province of Piacenza
in Emilia-Romagna.
Whichever side you choose, everyone
agrees this is not a cake to cut with a
knife. Traditionally it’s broken into pieces
and shared by hand.
Cooking polenta
There’s good news and there’s bad news.
I always like to start with the latter, as it
pays to finish on a high note. So, for the
bad, although polenta is very simple to
cook, it takes time. Anywhere between 30 I’ve noticed that
and 45 minutes. But you can always find
something to do in the interim.
children are especially
Traditionally, the proportions are fond of re-cooked
4 parts water to 1 part cornmeal flour.
For a main dish for four people, I find polenta
that 400g polenta to 2 litres water and
1 heaped tablespoon sea salt works well.
This will result in a silky soft polenta.
The process is simple. Bring the water
to the boil, add the salt and then slowly add the polenta flour, or at its most simple, melted butter and fresh sage (polenta
stirring vigorously as you do so. This is important to avoid lumps concia), perhaps with a little mountain cheese such as Toma.
forming. Once all the flour has been added, lower the heat to Now, if you go to the trouble to cook a good quality polenta
minimum and allow to ‘bubble’ (it’s not a boil). At this point – and believe me when I say that it is worth the effort – it always
you can relax and stir occasionally around the base and sides of pays to make extra. Savvy Italian cooks always cook a kilo of
the pan. Once it has finished cooking, you should have a creamy polenta when 500 grammes for lunch would suffice. That’s
thick consistency that comes away easily from the sides of the because, if you pour leftover polenta into a mould or a tray, it
pan, almost like a thick porridge. sets once cool and can be used as the basis for another great
Now, the good news is that an instant polenta is available, meal. Once it is cool, you can cut slabs and throw them on a
which takes anywhere between 5 and 8 minutes. Polenta purists griddle pan, into a frying pan with a little oil, or even onto a hot
will tell you that it’s not as good, and frankly I have to agree. barbecue. Cooked for a few minutes either side, the polenta will
However, for re-cooked polenta dishes, such as the polenta pizza form a crisp exterior and the inside will remain creamy and soft.
and grilled polenta below, I find it’s perfectly acceptable. On I’ve noticed that children are especially fond of re-cooked
a Sunday, however, when I have a hankering for a soft polenta polenta. You can add anything you like. Cut thick chips and
dressed with a slow-cooked ragù of wild boar, or simply with fry until crisp and golden, then add salt and dried herbs.
butter and lots of grated parmesan cheese, I’ll make the effort! Alternatively, cool the polenta in a round and, once it has set,
When polenta is first cooked, the result will be a thick gruel. throw a pizza party. Other toppings that work well are fresh
It’s often likened to a porridge. At this point, it is simply ladled porcini mushrooms, pan-fried with garlic and parsley, or strong
into a bowl and topped with anything from a rich stew of wild cheeses – gorgonzola is popular. The strong taste of the cheese
boar, a meat ragù, tomatoes and fontina (polenta alla pizzaiola), blends perfectly with the mild flavour of the polenta.

Polenta pizza margherita Grilled polenta with cime di

Pizza di polenta margherita rapa and gorgonzola sauce
➤ SERVES 4 ➤ PREPARATION 10 minutes ➤ BAKING 25 minutes Polenta grigliata con cime di
• 500g instant polenta rapa e gorgonzola
• 4 San Marzano tomatoes
• 400g mozzarella ➤ SERVES 4 ➤ PREPARATION 10 minutes ➤ COOKING 25 minutes
• a good handful of fresh spinach leaves
• vegetable oil • 350g instant polenta • extra-virgin olive oil
• extra-virgin olive oil • 1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped • sea salt
• oregano and salt • 500g cime di rapa (broccoli heads • 125ml double cream
or any greens you prefer) • 300g gorgonzola cheese
1 Cook the instant polenta according to the packet instructions. This
should take about 5 minutes. Pour the cooked polenta evenly into 4 1 Cook the instant polenta according to the packet instructions and
lightly oiled pizza tins and allow to cool completely until set. pour it out onto a large lightly oiled baking sheet, about 2-3cm
2 Once you are ready to cook, wash the spinach leaves and blanch for thick. Allow it to cool and set completely. Once it is cool, cut the
a minute or so in a pan. Slice the tomatoes and the mozzarella. polenta in the same way you would cut a chocolate brownie, a
Preheat the oven to 180ºC/Gas Mark 4. horizontal and vertical grid.
3 The pizzas are first cooked in a frying pan with a couple of teaspoons 2 To prepare the cime di rapa, add the garlic and a couple of
of vegetable oil, until the polenta is golden and crisp and then tablespoons of olive oil to a heavy-based fry pan. Heat gently. Wash
finished in the oven with the topping. Use a spatula to remove the the cime di rapa, chop roughly and add to the pan. Cover with a lid
pizza from the tin and fry for about 4-5 minutes in the pan on either and cook for about 8 minutes, until tender but still retaining a
side. If you have a couple of frying pans, you can cook two at a time. crunch. Season gently with salt.
Once cooked, keep them warm in the oven while you cook the 3 To make the gorgonzola sauce, simply pour the cream into a
remaining pizzas. You’ll need the oven hot for the pizza, but don’t saucepan, add the cheese and warm gently until the cheese has
worry, the polenta won’t burn. completely melted. Set aside until ready to serve.
4 To finish the pizzas, add a few spinach leaves to each, along with 4 To finish, heat a griddle pan on the stove until it begins to smoke.
slices of tomato and mozzarella (or any other pizza topping you This works equally well on the barbecue. Lightly brush each slab of
prefer). Add a sprinkling of salt, oregano and a drizzle of olive oil polenta with olive oil and place on the hot griddle. Cook for about 5
and return to the oven for about 5 minutes until the cheese has minutes on each side until crisp and firm. To serve, place two pieces
melted. Serve immediately. of polenta on each plate, add a heaping of greens, and finally pour
the cheese sauce over the top. Serve immediately.

Polenta with black bean and Almond crumble cake
spicy sausage stew Sbrisolona
Polenta con fagioli e salsiccia ➤ SERVES 4 ➤ PREPARATION 10 minutes ➤ BAKING 30 minutes
➤ SERVES 4 ➤ PREPARATION 10 minutes ➤ COOKING 20 minutes • 120g almonds with skins • rind of 1 organic unwaxed lemon
• 100g plain flour • a pinch of salt
• 1 medium onion, peeled • salt and dried oregano • 100g polenta flour • 1 large free range egg yolk
and chopped • 350g black beans, tinned • 100g granulated sugar • 100g unsalted butter
• 1 large clove of garlic, peeled (you can use dried but you • 1 tsp of vanilla paste
and chopped will need to soak them
• 1 medium red pepper, seeded overnight and cook in 1 Toast the almonds lightly in a heavy-based pan. Leaving a dozen or
and chopped advance) so aside, grind the rest in a food processor to a fine crumb. Combine
• 250g spicy Italian sausage (if • 400g polenta flour the almond crumb, the two flours, the sugar, the vanilla, the lemon
unavailable, use chorizo) • a handful of fresh parsley, rind and a pinch of salt, and mix well.
• 1 hot chili pepper (optional) chopped 2 Add the egg yolks and mix again. Finally, chop the butter into small
• 400ml tomato passata • extra-virgin olive oil cubes and add to the mix. Amalgamate the butter with the dry mix
as you would when making crumble, with the tips of your fingers,
1 To make the sauce, add the onions and garlic to a heavy-based until you have a crumbly mix.
frying pan and heat gently. Once the onion begins to soften add the 3 Preheat the oven to 180ºC/Gas Mark 4. Pour the mixture into a
red pepper and continue cooking. 20-22cm low-based round tin. Press down and level the mixture
2 Chop the spicy sausage into small pieces and add to the pan along uniformly. Sprinkle with a little sugar and add the remaining
with the chili pepper, if using. Cook for a couple of minutes until the almonds, pressing down gently. Bake in the preheated oven for
sausage begins to render. Add the tomato passata, a little salt and about 15 minutes then lower the oven to 160ºC and bake for a
about a teaspoon of dried oregano. Top with a little water and cook further 15 minutes, or until golden. Allow to cool completely before
gently for about 20 minutes. Add the beans and continue cooking removing from the tin and serving.
for about 10 minutes until the polenta is cooked.
3 Cook the polenta as explained above. You are looking for a soft TIP The name Sbrisolona translates as ‘crumbly’, so don’t be
creamy polenta, therefore if it begins to thicken too much, add an alarmed when yours is just that. The precise measurements will vary
extra splash of water. Once the polenta is cooked, add a couple of according to the providence of your almonds, the vagaries of your
ladles to each bowl and top with the beans and sausage. To finish oven, and – most importantly – your own personal preferences, so
the dish, add a good sprinkling of parsley and a drizzle of do experiment with quantities and temperatures.
extra-virgin olive oil. Serve immediately.

B U Y I TA L I A !
ITALIAN
HERB &
VEG SEEDS
Feeling green-fingered? If you fancy growing your
own veg, take a look at our Italian seed round-up
A
utumn is the time keen gardeners start to think
about their garden plans for the following year,
which is why we thought it would be useful to
take a look at the wonderful variety of Italian
vegetable and herb seeds on offer. Whether you
have an allotment, back garden, patio or window box, there is always
something you can grow in a pot or in the soil. There’s nothing quite HERITAGE VARIETIES
like the flavour of freshly harvested vegetables and herbs you’ve grown From Thomas Etty www.thomasetty.co.uk Price £2.00 per packet
from seed. If you’ve never tried growing anything before, give it a go. As a ‘Supplier of Heritage Seeds & Bulbs for the Period Garden’,
Trust us, it’ll become a passion! Thomas Etty Esq. offers an eclectic range of Italian heritage, rare
and unusual vegetable varieties, including Agretti and Cime di Rapa.
FRANCHI SEEDS SARAH RAVEN

From Seeds of Italy From Sarah Raven
www.seedsofitaly.com www.sarahraven.com
Price prices vary Price £27.50 for 13 varieties
As importers for the Franchi The Foodies Salad Seed
seed brand, the oldest Collection is packed with
family-run seed company flavoursome kitchen garden
in the world, Seeds of Italy varieties such as Tomato
has a huge variety of Italian ‘Costoluto Fiorentino’ and
varieties from courgettes Florence Fennel ‘Romanesco’.
and fennel to Tropea onions, Perfect for pots or patios too.
black radish and native salad You can buy these and many
leaves such as radicchio. more seed packets separately.

SUTTONS SEEDS
From Suttons
Borlotti beans
www.suttons.co.uk
Price prices vary
One of the UK’s main
seed suppliers, you’ll
find plenty of Italian
seed at your local
Suttons stockist. Look
out for the classic ‘San
Marzano’ tomatoes as
well as other varieties
for your vegetable plot.
Courgette ‘Costata Romanesco’
Tomato ‘Costoluto’
Agretti ‘Roscano’
CHILTERN SEEDS
From Chiltern Seeds
www.chilternseeds.co.uk
Price prices vary
Children Seeds has been
a family-run business for
nearly 50 years, supply top-
quality seeds to enthusiastic
gardeners. Italian varieties
abound, including the
Tortarello ‘Abruzzese Chiaro’ Tortarello ‘Abruzzese Chiaro’
– botanically a melon, but
tastes like a cucumber!
BURPEE SEEDS
Available from Marshalls
Basil ‘Batik’
(and other seed companies)
Approx price £3.99 per pack
The ‘Big Mama’ hybrid is one
of those meaty tomatoes,
perfect for sauces and
passata, as is Burpee’s Super
Sauce. Burpee Europe don’t
sell direct but via UK seed
companies such as Marshalls
and Suttons, and you’ll find
many of their varieties there.
PICCOLO SEEDS
From Sous Chef
www.souschef.co.uk
Price £3.29 per 120 seeds
Sous Chef offer a range of
Piccolo Seeds. Genovese
Basil is perhaps the most
famous basil variety and
the main ingredient in
pesto genovese. With more
varieties to choose from,
Piccolo seeds are 100 per Tomato ‘Big Mama’
cent GMO-free.

Learn how to make these simple

spinach and ricotta dumplings with
pasta master Mateo Zielonka
Malfatti with
slow-cooked
tomato sauce
Malfatti al sugo
di pomodoro
➤ SERVES 4 (makes around 24)
➤ COOKING 1 hour
These soft dumplings are delicious served

in a simple slow-cooked tomato sauce, as
I’ve done here, or tossed in sage butter.
I find them quite filling, so you could
serve four each to six people as a starter.
FOR THE SAUCE

• 60ml olive oil
• 3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely
chopped
• 2 x 400g cans of whole plum or chopped
tomatoes
• Plus 1 batch of malfatti (see opposite)
TO SERVE
• a few basil leaves
• parmesan
1 In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil,

add the garlic and fry for a minute until
fragrant, then add the tinned tomatoes.
Cook on a medium-low heat for 35-40
minutes, stirring occasionally. Season to
taste with sea salt and freshly ground
black pepper. Leave on a low heat while
you boil the malfatti.
2 Set a large pan of water on the hob and,
when the water is boiling, season it
generously with table salt. Carefully drop
the malfatti into the water and cook for 2
minutes, or until they bob to the surface.
3 Ladle the tomato sauce into four warmed
This masterclass is bowls, then, using a slotted spoon, fish
extracted from: out the malfatti and place them into the
Pasta Masterclass
sauce. Alternatively, you can scoop them
by Mateo Zielonka
directly into the pan of sauce and gently
(Quadrille, £26)
mix them together before plating.
Photography by
Dave Brown
4 Finish with a basil leaf or two and a
generous grating of parmesan.

How to make
malfatti
➤ SERVES 4
➤ PREPARATION 30 minutes, plus chilling
These rustic ricotta and spinach dumplings,

also known as gnudi, are similar to the more
familiar gnocchi, but they are much richer,
speckled green with spinach and scented with
nutmeg. The word malfatti translates as ‘badly
formed’, but don’t hold that against them –
it’s nice not having to worry about making
them uniform in size and shape.
To make malfatti, you will need a muslin cloth

(cheesecloth) or linen tea towel (dish towel).
• 300g ricotta
• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, peeled and finely diced
• 1 garlic clove, peeled and diced
• 225g spinach leaves, washed
• 70g parmesan, finely grated
• ½ nutmeg, grated
• 1 medium free range egg
• 50g fine semolina
1 Prepare a tray dusted with fine semolina, ready

for your finished malfatti. First, strain the ricotta
by placing it in a muslin cloth and squeezing it
to remove the excess liquid. The ricotta will lose
around 10-15 per cent of its overall weight and
have a much firmer consistency. Scoop it into a
medium bowl and set aside.
2 Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and cook
the onion and garlic until soft and golden,
around 7 minutes on a medium heat. Add the
spinach, cover with a lid and cook for 2-3
minutes until the spinach has wilted.
3 Transfer the spinach mixture to a colander and
squeeze any excess liquid out by pressing it hard
with a wooden spoon. Alternatively, allow it to
cool and just squeeze with your hands until the
spinach has lost all its moisture.
4 Finely chop the spinach and add it to the bowl
of ricotta along with the parmesan, nutmeg,
egg and semolina. Beat together with a wooden
spoon and season to taste. Leave in the fridge
to rest and firm for 30 minutes.
5 When you are ready to shape the malfatti,
I suggest wetting your hands just a little, as
this stops the soft mixture from sticking to
them. Shape into walnut-sized balls.
6 Place them on the prepared tray, then slide
the tray into the fridge for an hour to firm up.
Photography by Dave Brown
You can leave them overnight if you’d like to

prepare them ahead.
TIP These will freeze quite happily, if you make

too many. Just make sure they are not too
compressed or weighed down by anything else.

Treat
COO K I TA L I A !
ANYTIME
Photograph by Maria Bell

Classic
If you love Italian biscotti, you’ll love this fragrant
fennel-infused version by Sabrina Gidda
Fennel and cashew biscotti 1 Preheat the oven to 185°C/Gas Mark 4½. Line one or two baking trays
Biscotti ai semi di finocchio e anacardi

with baking paper.
2 Pop all the dry ingredients (apart from the semolina) into a large
mixing bowl and then add the whisked eggs. Use a fork to bring the dough
➤ MAKES 20 ➤ PREPARATION 15 minutes ➤ BAKING 35 minutes together.
3 Dust your work surface with the fine semolina, This recipe is taken
My time at Bernardi’s restaurant was full of the finest Italian produce – then turn out the dough. Divide into 4 balls and from Modern South
and we loved creating playful takes on classic recipes. Biscotti are roll these into sausage shapes. Asian Kitchen by
twice-baked biscuits perfect for dunking in chai, or serving with desserts 4 Carefully place on the lined baking trays, allowing Sabrina Gidda
and coffee. This recipe combines delicious cashews with fennel – and it plenty of space for expansion on the tray, so don’t (Quadrille, £27).
really is a delight. If you don’t like cashews you can use almonds or put the rolls too close together. Bake for about 25 Photography:
hazelnuts instead. Once the biscotti are made they last for a good few minutes, or until the dough has started to colour Maria Bell
weeks in an airtight jar – or at least I would assume they do; mine tend and is holding firm.
to get eaten fairly quickly. 5 I would give these rolls about 5 minutes to rest so
you can then handle them. If they are too hot they
• 350g plain flour • 1 tsp ground ginger are difficult to slice and, if they are too cold, your
• 2 tsp baking powder • zest of 1 unwaxed lemon slices may just crumble.
• 220g golden caster sugar • 3 medium free-range eggs, 6 Transfer the rolls to a board. You will need to cut
• 2 tsp fennel seeds whisked them into 1cm slices, then put these slices back on
• 120g cashew nuts, roughly • 2 tbsp fine semolina, the baking trays. Bake for 10 minutes on each side
broken in half for dusting until they are crunchy and golden.

D R I N K I TA L I A !
Lugana vineyards
near Lake Garda
LUGANA
WINES
Long overdue, we take our first ever look at Lugana white
wines from a productive area around the southern shores of
Lake Garda that spans Lombardy and Veneto…
C
onsorzio Lugana DOC wines come from the southern shores
of Lake Garda, the largest lake in Italy. Lugana DOC is one
of the few wine appellations that cross over two provinces,
Brescia and Verona, as well as two regions, Lombardy and
Veneto. Lugana is little-known outside Italy, but it boasts a long history
The Turbiana grape gives structure

to different styles of Lugana
of winemaking which dates back to Roman times. It owes its success to
Turbiana, a local native grape variety that gives great structure and
longevity to different styles of Lugana (from sparkling to late harvest).
The Turbiana grapes have compact bunches with thick-skinned berries,
and were once thought to be part of the extended Trebbiano family, but
DNA research proves that Turbiana has its own distinct characteristics
– and is more of a close relative to Verdicchio, but with its own unique
aromatic qualities. One of Turbiana’s most important features is its ability
to maintain high levels of tartaric acid that lends freshness to young wines,
while also giving Riserva wines ageing potential of up to a decade or more.
Definitely worth seeking out and sampling, we have six fine examples of
Lugana wine for you to try overleaf. Let us know what you think!

D R I N K I TA L I A !
SARTORI LUGANA LA RIFRA RISERVA
Prices correct at time of printing

DISCOVERY OF LA MUSINA 2021 IL BEPI 2020
THE MONTH From The Great Wine Co.
www.greatwine.co.uk
From Whitmore & White
www.whitmoreandwhite
LE MORETTE 2020 Price £16.65 .co.uk
From Independent Wine Family-run Casa Sartori Price £28.95
www.independent.wine has been winemaking since La Rifra is a family-run
Price £26.95 1898 and the excellent La winery of 40 years’ standing
Located south of Lake Garda within walking distance of Musina comes from the in the Desenzano Del Garda
the lake’s shores, Fabio Zenato, the winemaker at the centre of the Lugana area, district near Lake Garda.
Le Morette winery, produces top-quality Lugana DOC southwest of Lake Garda. Made from 100 per cent
white wines. This Riserva is only produced in years of the Aged mostly in stainless Turbiana grape harvested
best harvests. Elegant, fresh and complex, it has a rich, steel and traditional tanks, by hand, this wine is pale
mineral depth to it with aromas of thyme and tropical with a small percentage in golden in the glass with
fruits, with more exotic fruit on the palate, alongside oak casks, it has a straw- a bouquet of stone fruits
bitter almonds and a touch of sweet honey. yellow colour and a honeyed and a touch of vanilla. The
nose. The oak is subtle and palate is rich with peach,
adds to the wine’s body but and a creamy, honeyed
doesn’t overpower the fresh texture balanced with a
flavours of melon and lime stony minerality. A very
and the long mineral finish. fresh finish.
ISCOVE
NTH D
OCT/NOV
RY
2023
TH
OF
E MO
GREAT WITH… GREAT WITH… GREAT WITH…

Grilled garlic prawns and other premium seafood Pork loin with sage, grilled Lake and sea fish, risottos
such as lobster and pan-fried scallops. meats and whole baked poultry, mushrooms and
fish like seabass. soft young cheeses.

CITARI, LUGANA LUGANA CANTINA LUGANA LE CREETE NEXT MONTH IN
VIGNETO LA MENEGOTTI 2021 OTTELLA 2021
CONCHIGLIA DOC
From Champagnes
& Châteaux
www.champagnesand
From Corney & Barrow
www.corneyandbarrow.com
Price £16.50
Grandfather Antonio
From The Great Wine Co.
www.greatwine.co.uk
Price £32.00
The Montresor family have
Taste
chateaux.co.uk
Menegotti was making wine been running the Ottella
Cook
Price £16.95
in the 1950s and this winery winery for four generations.
Run by Giovanna Gettuli,
continues to be family-run Lugana Le Creete is one
daughter of the founder,
today. With floral notes and Ottella’s signature wines
the Citari vineyards cover
white peach on the nose, and is aged in steel vats,
25 hectares of gentle,
south-facing glacial slopes
this pale golden wine is 100 barrels and barriques, A Bowl of Soul
per cent Turbiana, and is a which gives it considerable Hearty Italian soups
near Lake Garda. The palest
refreshing, lively wine to body. Golden in the glass
straw-yellow in the glass,
drink. The flavours open out with notes of pineapple
this light-to-medium
Lugana has fresh aromas
into more peach with a hint
of grapefruit, medium-
and grapefruit, the tropical
fruits on the palate are
Go Nuts!
of crisp orchard fruit with
bodied and fruit-laden but balanced by a delicate
Four seasonal recipes
more juicy fruit on the
tamed by a crisp yet low-key minerality and long, dry
palate and zesty lemon.
The finish is long, with
acidity and hint of bitter
almonds on the palate.
finish. Definitely a wine with
great ageing potential.
Festive Bakes
a distinct minerality. From Giuseppe Dell’Anno
Buy
This image by Alex Luck © Ryland Peters & Small, from A Bowl of Soup by Hannah Miles, published by Ryland Peters & Small (£20.00). Contents may be subject to change
Indulgent holiday treats
Drink
Wines for celebrations
GREAT WITH… GREAT WITH… GREAT WITH…

Pasta dishes and herb Crisp green salads, chicken Grilled lake fish and
risotto, a crayfish salad or dishes, shellfish and strong cheeses like aged
grilled lake fish. seafood. parmesan.

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Living Look no further for expert Italian
property advice and properties for sale
Homes
Living in Le Marche
Find your dream home in this
tranquil central region
p78
Property Showcase
Our round-up of top properties
for sale around Italy this month
p 88
10 pages
of expert
advice and
properties
The ancient city

of Ascoli Piceno is
steeped in history

L I V I N G I TA L I A !
Undulating hills roll

between the sea and
the mountains

Living in
Regularly showered with accolades for its cleanliness and
Il Ponte della Concordia, quality of life, this prosperous, rural region is greatly loved by
Fossombrone visitors and property-hunters. It remains an excellent place
to buy yourself a home in Italy says Fleur Kinson.
F
orming the Italian leg’s together. Lovers of big cities might
calf muscle on a map, be disappointed in Le Marche,
Le Marche sits halfway as there are no big conurbations
down the nation’s here. There is also hardly any heavy
peninsula with the blue industry anywhere in the region.
Adriatic Sea lapping its eastern But the region is certainly
edge and the pretty Apennine no remote backwater. The
mountains rising along its western transport infrastructure is solid
side. It’s an extremely attractive and and reliable, with good roads and
well-proportioned region, with smooth-running rail, sea and air
a rich array of diverse landscapes connections to other countries.
lying within relatively easy reach
of each other.
There are more than a hundred AT A GLANCE…
miles of clean, golden beaches here. ➤ THE REGION
There are countless miles of green Le Marche is located on Italy’s
The walled
city of Urbino and gold hills, often crowned with central eastern coast. The main
handsome old towns and villages. neighbours are Emilia-Romagna,
And there are rounded, wooded Umbria and Abruzzo; the border
mountains snaked through with also briefly kisses Tuscany and
hiking trails, offering gorgeous Lazio. Landscapes unfurl between
vistas across the region and into the sparkling blue Adriatic and the
Spiaggia Mezzavalle, neighbouring Umbria, Emilia- majestic Apennine mountains. The
near Portonovo Romagna and Abruzzo. coast is a long line of clean, golden
Being attractive and well- beaches meeting warm, shallow
proportioned is true of more water. Inland, the terrain rises to
than just Le Marche’s landscapes. form an undulating world of green
The region’s pace of life is easy- and sun-blonded hills.
going and sustainable, its general ➤ THE CLIMATE
atmosphere serene and friendly. Temperate, with warm-hot summers
The population density is low, the but no real dry season. Winters in
unemployment rate very low, and the uplands can be cold, especially
the crime rate rock-bottom. at night.
Le Marche is rural but ➤ THE CULTURE
prosperous, orderly but relaxed. Ducal palaces and museums abound.
Local communities are warm and Grand master Raphael and architect
welcoming, and many small towns Bramante were born in Urbino.
enjoy a lively calendar of events Pesaro is the birthplace of Rossini.
and festivals that bring everyone

CASA RINASCERE
Type of property Fully restored farmhouse DREAM HOME
Fully restored
Number of bedrooms 3 Marche Piazza IV Novembre, Ancona,
Price €419,000 farmhouse
and its Monument to the Fallen
Location Penna San Giovanni, Macerata
Contact Kevin Gibney, Property For Sale Marche
+39 347 538 6668
TODAY’S MARKET
[email protected]
www.propertyforsalemarche.com
Le Marche’s property market
continues to be strong. “People
Stylishly restored stone farmhouse. Restored in 2021.
are still seeking the peace and
High-end design. Great mix of rustic and contemporary
styles, right-sized. High-end finish materials. 2-3
quiet of a house here, regardless
bedrooms depending on your needs, 2 bathrooms, pool of general economic and political
The famous lion
with big surround and exquisite stonework integrated uncertainty,” says Kevin L. Gibney fountains of Jesi
with pergola for outdoor dining. Beautiful views. of PropertyForSaleMarche.com.
Unrestored annex can be restored. Private plot with olive Jane Smith of Magic Marche
grove. 5 minutes to closest hill town, under 50 minutes agrees. She says, “The market has has adjusted in all these groups is
to the coast, 25 minutes to the mountains. bounced back well since the Covid that there are fewer British buyers
pandemic. Three types of buyer now because of Brexit.”
have emerged. There are those Another notable trend in Le
seeking to move to Italy and enjoy Marche is a shift towards buying
la dolce vita to the full – the ‘life finished houses rather than seeking
is too short’ people. out restoration projects. “Nearly
There are others who are buying everybody is orientated towards
a second home here now that buying a finished house now,” says
remote working has become an Mauro Rieti of Unique Marche.
option since the pandemic, and Other estate agents say the
they’re working from their second same thing. Kevin L. Gibney of
home for long periods. And there PropertyForSaleMarche.com says,
are those who have always been “In the past, there was a mix of
buying here – Europeans who want interest in finished houses, standing
VILLA GIUSTA an escape they can drive or fly to houses to restore, and ruins to
Type of property Fully restored farmhouse for holidays. The only thing that demolish and rebuild. Over the
Number of bedrooms 4
Price €539,000
Location San Ginesio, Macerata Evening market at Fermo
+39 347 538 6668
[email protected]
A completely restored 225 sqm stone farmhouse, Villa
Giusta has what everyone is looking for. Spectacular
view. 4 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms. Private, landscaped
plot with pool and loggia. Central Marche location. Lots
of windows, lots of light. Simple, discreet finish levels
inside with lots of rustic and original touches. Walk to
town. Under 45 minutes to the coast, 25 minutes to the
mountains. Excellent for year-round living, holiday and
rental use. The villa that’s “just right”.

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LE MARCHE REGIONAL GUIDE

INTRODUCTION
Le Marche lies on the eastern side of
Italy, between majestic mountains
and inviting sea. The region is split
into five provinces: Pesaro-Urbino,
Ancona, Macerata, Ascoli Piceno
and Fermo. Its proximity to both
mountains and sea makes it very
appealing to homebuyers.
Its Adriatic coastline stretches
some 180km and includes some of
the best Blue Flag beaches in Italy,
while the steep eastern slopes of
the Apennines include the stunning
1 Monti Sibillini in the south. Much of
the region is hilly or mountainous.
The main autostrada, the A14,
2 and the state highway SS16 run
swiftly along the coast, but further
3 inland they are slower as they weave
up and down the region’s hills.
The intercity train connections at
Ancona link the region with Bologna
and Rome. Ancona is also the site of
Le Marche’s international airport,
which is served by Ryanair from
London Stansted.
Le Marche boasts 13 protected
areas, forests and nature reserves,
including the Monti Sibillini and the
National Park at Monte Conero on
the coast near Ancona. The region
has a remarkable historical heritage
too, with its medieval hilltop towns
and villages and more than 30
significant archaeological sites and
200 Romanesque churches, as well
as the Renaissance city of Urbino,
famed for its university and 15th-
century Palazzo Ducale.
Adriatic coast seen from the Grottammare, Ascoli Piceno

village of Torre di Palme

The provincial capital Wild beauty and beaches on
of Ascoli Piceno the Riviera del Conero
THE COAST THE HINTERLAND La Gola del Furlo, a gorge

on the Via Flaminia
1 The coast of Le Marche stretches 2 Move inland from the coast and
from Pesaro to San Benedetto del you will find the rolling hills and
Tronto, past sandy beaches and open fields of farming country, a
numerous small seaside towns peaceful landscape punctuated
and villages. The region can boast by pretty hilltop towns and gentle
one of the highest number of Blue valleys. The quieter environment
Flag beaches of any region in Italy. and slower pace of life make this is a
Ancona sits almost half way down popular area for British buyers. One
the coast and is the administrative of the region’s most eminent cities
capital, and a busy port. With its is Urbino. The city rivals Florence
Greek heritage there are many for cultural significance and the
interesting styles of architecture. more compact, bustling city has
A lot of the coastal resorts are been designated a UNESCO World
relatively small and retain a certain Heritage Site. Further south, the
old-fashioned charm. The largest hill town of Macerata boasts one of
seaside resort is Pesaro, in the Europe’s most outstanding outdoor THE MOUNTAINS
north, which is bursting with good theatres, the Arena Sferisterio, built
shops and restaurants. Famous for in the 19th century to resemble an 3 The Monti Sibillini National Park
being the birthplace of Gioachino ancient Roman arena. The Stagione was created in 1993 when 700sqm
Rossini, the town has an annual Lirica musical festival is held here of mountainous wilderness was
Opera Festival. every summer. set aside as a site of outstanding
Senigallia, a little further south, Close to the border with Abruzzo, natural beauty. Rising to more
is known as the ‘Velvet Beach’ with the ancient town of Ascoli Piceno than 2,000m, this is a popular
its 13km of soft, golden sand. The takes its name from the Picene destination for naturalists, skiers in
Conero Riviera offers the jewel of tribe, who were conquered by the winter and walkers in the summer.
Portonovo with its Napoleonic fort, Romans in 89BC. The city was once The mountains form you need to
idyllic Sirolo and its spectacular a stop on the Via Salaria (the salt plan your routes can be you need to
golf course, and the Liberty-style route) from Rome, but now enjoys plan your routes can be the border
architecture of Porto San Giorgio. a quieter existence. With one of the with Umbria to the west and the
Continue down the coast for Pedaso, most beautiful marble-paved piazze highest peak is Vettore, at 2,476m.
which hosts a famous mussel in Italy, and a wealth of medieval The area is dotted with medieval
festival, Cupra Marittima and its architecture, there’s plenty to enjoy. towns and criss-crossed with
imposing castle, and Grottammare Many other villages dot the walking trails. There is shelter at
with its medieval old town. Finally landscape, including Arcevia (to the network of rifugi (mountain
you come to San Benedetto del the west of Ancona) perched on the huts) across the range and all the
Tronto, the second largest resort foothills and surrounded by historic maps and guides you need to plan
after Pesaro. The fishing port is very castles; Offida in the south with your routes can be found at the Casa
busy in the summer with its pretty its unusual triangular piazza and del Parco visitor centres. Popular
promenades and vibrant nightlife. memorable vin santo; and medieval nearby towns include Amandola
The coast itself might be expensive Jesi, near Ancona, with its castle, with stunning views of the
for property, but it’s easy to get cobbled streets and world-famous mountains, and Force, famed for its
there from the nearby inland towns. Verdicchio wines. artisans and wrought iron work.

CASA VERANDA
Type of property Fully restored farmhouse
Number of bedrooms 2-3 Bougainvillea at
Sirolo’s Spiaggia Urbani with its
Price €349,000 Ascoli Piceno
limestone cliffs and pine trees
Location Mogliano, Macerata
+39 347 538 6668
past three years that mix has shifted
[email protected]
dramatically to finished houses.
This is basically due to two
Completely restored in 2019, right-sized 2-3 bedroom
things. First, Covid has created a
177 sqm old brick farmhouse. Loads of features for
a house in this price range – seismic restoration,
‘mindset of now’ – buyers don’t
underfloor heating, air conditioning, dual wood/ want to delay being able to stay
gas heating system, damp resistance, double-glazed in their house. Second, the costs
windows, big veranda section, vaulted ceilings in the of restorations and new-builds
living room and beams. Great views, close to excellent have risen sharply in recent times
hill town, 30 minutes to coast, 40 minutes to mountains. because of supply-chain problems, That said, with a drop in
Even has a small plunge pool! All this for €349,000! the drain on materials caused their popularity, the prices of
by the Superbonus programme, old tumbledown homes needing
inflation and other factors.” restoration has plummeted, so
Jane Smith of Magic Marche buyers longing to fix up an old
adds, “Raw material prices have ruin need not necessarily abandon
increased in the last 18 months due that dream altogether.
to the Ukraine war, more expensive “The wrecks are getting cheaper
manufacture and transport, etc. and cheaper,” says Mauro Rieti of
The best value is now in ready- Unique Marche, “so there could
restored property.” be an investment opportunity
CASA PERFETTA, PENNA SAN GIOVANNI

Type of property Restoration project
Number of bedrooms 4+
Price €119,000
Location Penna San Giovanni, Macerata
Contact Unique Marche +44 (0)7957 659 142
[email protected] www.uniquemarche.com
An extraordinary gem of rural Marche architecture
perched atop a serene hill, offering panoramic vistas of
the majestic Sibillini Mountains and the tranquil Adriatic
Sea. This captivating property boasts a main residence
and charming outbuildings, eagerly awaiting your
creative touch and restoration vision. Set on a sprawling
5,000 sqm lot, the expansive 500 sqm interior space
provides a canvas for your personalized dreams. With
the dedicated support of the Unique Marche team, this
enchanting haven is poised to evolve into the retreat of
your wildest aspirations.

Image courtesy of Natalie and John Gardner
Natalie and John first met
in Italy “many years ago”
OUR LIFE IN LE MARCHE

The Cascata and Ponte
Romano at Fermignano
Birmingham-based Natalie and John Gardner own a two-
bedroom house on the outskirts of a village eighteen miles
from the sea in southern Le Marche. They spend at least
in them.” Mauro also highlights That doesn’t mean the south is less four weeks there every summer and make several shorter
the growing number of energy- charming in any way; much of this visits at other times of the year. When they’re not at the
cost-saving homes available in Le difference in price is due to the fact house themselves, they make it available to friends and
Marche. “Recently,” he says, “thanks that many northern continental family, and also offer holiday rentals.
to a national law that incentivised European buyers want the option What drew them to Italy, and to Le Marche in particular?
them, homes with high energy- of being able to drive to their “Italy has always been special to us both because it’s where we
efficiency have appeared on the holiday home, and northern Le first met,” Natalie explains. “Many years ago, we both had jobs
market. These have technologies Marche is slightly closer to them. with a walking holiday company and we often had to liaise with
installed to make them practically Mauro Rieti of Unique Marche each other in Tuscany. Love bloomed over glasses of Chianti,
energy self-sufficient – solar says that tumbledown houses and now here we are three decades later with a house of our
panels for hot water, heat pumps, needing to be rebuilt start at about own in Italy. When we started looking for somewhere to buy,
underfloor heating, electric vehicle €80,000 in the northern half and our initial plan was Tuscany, for obvious romantic reasons, but
charging stations and more.” €50,000 in the southern half. the property prices were so much higher there than in many
Houses needing restoration go for other beautiful bits of Italy. A friend told us about southern Le
PRICES AND PLACES €150,000-€250,000 in the north, Marche, and when we came out to view properties here we fell
Like some other parts of the world, he says, and €100,000-€200,000 in love with the area. The countryside is so pretty, there are
Le Marche has a north-south divide in the south. Meanwhile, houses lots of interesting little towns scattered about, and the sea is
when it comes to property prices. needing minor work or completion an easy drive away.
The region’s southern half tends to ask €200,000-€350,000 in the “Our house needed only minor work when we bought it in
be a little cheaper than the north. north and €150,000-€300,000 2018. We got some excellent workers in from the village and
in the south, and ready-restored another village further out, and our house looked stunning
homes ask €350,000-€900,000 in just a few weeks later. We sorted out the garden and the small
The region is populated
the north and €250,000-€800,000 olive grove ourselves, which was exciting. Neither of us knew
and cultivated, but never
excessively so
in the south. much about garden-design or horticulture and we had quite a
The north-south divide is only few laughs watching each other figure out how it was all done.
one geographical factor in Le Now when we sit on our patio and survey our handiwork, we
Marche’s property prices. An even both agree that we didn’t make a bad job of things. Or maybe
more significant divide is east-west: that’s just the effect of the wine and the sunshine!
prices on the coast drop as you “We were fortunate that we didn’t need to depend on
head into the inland interior, and holiday rental income to cover our costs with the house. For
drop even further as you reach the us, the rentals thing is just a little sideline. We know other
mountainous far west. It can be people with houses in similar locations to ours who get lots of
useful to think of Le Marche as visitor enquiries, and it works well for them. Le Marche is very
comprising three vertical ‘stripes’, popular with travellers who have good taste and want to enjoy
each with its own market. The the genuine Italy.
coastal zone is priciest, then a short “The most important thing I’d say is that it’s a great
distance inland there’s an appealing adventure buying a house in Italy and learning to live like
‘Goldilocks’ zone (neither too the local people. I’d recommend Le Marche to anyone. It’s an
expensive nor too remote), and incredibly safe and friendly place, and of course it’s beautiful
further west there’s the very low- off the scale. Being at our house feels like being in our own
priced mountainous zone. little heaven on earth.”

CASA GIUDITTA, PENNA SAN GIOVANNI

Type of property Ready to use villa
Number of bedrooms 5+
Gradara, with its
Price €899,000
well-preserved castle
Location Monte San Martino, Macerata
Contact Unique Marche +44 (0)7957 659 142
Jane Smith of Magic Marche as soon as you begin to head
An exuberant villa, over 600 sqm, on a 7,000 sqm plot, says that, “the most expensive part inland in Le Marche. If you buy a
all oriented to a jaw-dropping panorama stretching from of Le Marche is anywhere along home somewhere between about
Piceno’s valleys to the Adriatic’s embrace. 5 lavishly
the 180-kilometre coastline, as this fifteen and thirty miles from the
appointed bedrooms, each with its own bath, embody
the artful marriage of local sandstone and reclaimed
market is dominated by Italian sea, you’re going to benefit from
bricks, a testament to Marche’s finest architectural purchasers with deep pockets.”That significantly lower prices, find
heritage. Luxuriate in comforts like underfloor heating said, there are plenty of nice, yourself amidst some extremely
and a heated pool, creating an oasis of indulgence. A modern-built apartments in and pretty countryside and still have
captivating spectacle ready to be relished, this residence around the beach towns going for easy access to nearby beaches.
encapsulates the essence of grandeur, inviting you to between €100,000 and €250,000. The gently undulating hills
savour every moment in this picturesque marvel. Jane Smith says there’s a ten per here hold plenty of charming
cent drop in house prices once you small towns and villages, many
are more than twenty kilometres with a lively calendar of local
inland. She adds that the least festivals and events. Being at a
expensive part of Le Marche is close higher elevation than the coast,
to the Sibillini Mountains in the this inland area can offer lovely
southwestern corner of the region. views down to the bright blue
Adriatic in one direction and up
BEACHES, HILLS, to the mountains in the other.
MOUNTAINS As you head into Le Marche’s
All this discussion of places and western extremes, the gentle hills
DREAM HOME prices might have left you wanting buckle up to form the majestic
Renovated a greater understanding of the Apennine Mountains and, in
Marche
farmhouse topography and character of the south, to form the strikingly
CASA ZOE, PENNA SAN GIOVANNI Le Marche’s various areas. So beautiful and otherworldly Sibillini
Type of property Ready to use let’s take a closer look at the lie Mountains. Both mountain ranges
Number of bedrooms 4+ of the land across the region. are only moderately high, making
Price €790,000 As you’ve probably gathered them impressive but not forbidding
Location Penna San Giovanni, Macerata already, Le Marche’s coastline is – in short, a hiking paradise.
Contact Unique Marche +44 (0)7957 659 142 pretty gorgeous. It offers lots of These higher-altitude parts
long stretches of very clean golden of Le Marche are generally the
A once humble farmhouse metamorphosed into a truly sand backed by family-friendly region’s very cheapest areas for
exceptional residence, at the heart of Marche, through resort-towns. The beaches slope property, but they are undeniably
the harmonious collaboration of skilled artisans,
very slowly and gently into the attractive places nonetheless and
expertly breathing life into the architect’s vision,
elevating every facet of local architecture. Nestled
blue Adriatic, meaning there are very worthy of your attention.
amid the rolling Marche hills, the farmhouse offers an lots of long, safe shallows made
intimate panorama that celebrates nature and ensures warm by the sun. The atmosphere USEFUL CONTACTS
privacy. A singular haven, a testament to extraordinary along the coast is very relaxed
www.magicmarche.com
craftsmanship, where history meets modernity in an and welcoming.
architectural symphony, creating an unparalleled and We’ve already mentioned www.uniquemarche.com
distinctive retreat. that property prices start to sink

FINDING AND NEGOTIATING
FOR PROPERTY IN LE MARCHE?
Reach out to D&G Property Advice for

buying advice in Le Marche
We exclusively represent
only the buyer’s interests
DOWNLOAD
when managing the OUR FREE GUIDE:
buying process ‘The 5 most common
A unique collection of homes
FIND OUT MORE: buying mistakes in Italy, and restoration projects in
www.dandgpropertyadvice.com and how to avoid them’ Le Marche, Italy.
[email protected] —
www.dandgpropertyadvice.
+44 (0)203 2390479 Find out more
com/freeGuide visit www.uniquemarche.com
+39 3455678414
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P R O P E RT Y S H OWC A S E
Property Showcase
€100,000-€250,000 €500,000-€750,000
SANTO STEFANO BELBO, CUNEO FARMHOUSE, NIZZA MONFERRATO
Only 2 km from the centre of Santo Stefano Belbo, in a quiet and sunny This L-shaped Piedmontese farmhouse is immersed in greenery and
position surrounded by vineyards. The property consists of a Langa stone conveys tranquility and peace. On the ground floor, an entrance hall,
ruin and the main house, which needs some restoration and aesthetic living room, kitchen, bathroom and storerooms on one side, and on the
work. The house has 2 levels: the first floor consists of a large, bright other a laundry and storage area of ample size. Outside is a porch of
entrance hall, 4 bedrooms, bathroom, kitchen and living room with brick and exposed beams – an excellent solution for the hot Piedmont
access to the balcony. On the ground floor there are two large storage summers, all surrounded by a large garden and over 4 hectares of land.
rooms, which can be converted into living areas, and access to the On the first floor are 3 bedrooms, a bathroom and a large room/living
front garden. On a clear day you can see the entire Alpine arc and there room converted from the old hayloft, maintaining the typical style of
is enough space for a swimming pool! The property enjoys complete the area with beautiful exposed beams, terracotta floors and a brick
privacy, so if you’re looking for peace it might be perfect. Ref CP-1480 fireplace. A further room is located on the second floor. Ref CP-1490
Price €220,000 Contact Case in Piemonte +39 340 143 0787 Price €650,000 Contact Case in Piemonte +39 340 143 0787
[email protected] www.caseinpiemonte.com [email protected] www.caseinpiemonte.com
€100,000-€250,000 €250,000-€500,000
HISTORICAL CENTRE, CANELLI, ASTI TWO STONE COTTAGES, PONZONE
In the heart of Canelli, the cradle of the Italian sparkling wines, is this Approximately 15 km south of Acqui Terme, in an enchanting position,
recently renovated house, at the moment comprising two lodgings. lies this property consisting of two perfectly restored stone cottages
Everything has been designed to make these two tastefully furnished surrounded by luxuriant nature. A well-maintained private road leads
lodgings comfortable and practical. Each has a balcony overlooking the to the buildings, both developed on two levels. The first house consists
village and the local church square – the perfect property for tourist of a living room, kitchen and bathroom on the ground floor and two
rental or for a family. However, the property can easily be turned back bedrooms and a large bathroom on the upper floor. The second, a few
into a spacious family home with all the commodities of being in the metres away, consists of a kitchen, living room and bathroom on the
ancient part of the village centre but still in a private and tranquil spot. ground floor and a large bedroom with a large window and bathroom on
On the ground floor there is a garage, unique for the location, and, as the the upper floor. The house also has a large storage room and a porch for
cherry on the cake, the cantina with vaulted ceiling. Ref CP-1419 use as a garage or tool shed, and almost 5 hectares of land. Ref CI-1485
Price €175,000 Contact Case in Piemonte +39 340 143 0787 Price €475,000 Contact Case in Piemonte +39 340 143 0787
[email protected] www.caseinpiemonte.com [email protected] www.caseinpiemonte.com

€500,000-€750,000 €250,000-€500,000
PIEMONTE – AGLIANO TERME PIEMONTE – NIZZA MONFERRATO
Enchanting 4.7 ha property in the heart of Monferrato Barbera Nizza A 3-storey property with lounge, dining room and kitchen, living room
zone near Agliano Terme. This stunning property with 360-degree views and office. There is also a beautiful room with a working wood oven,
of rolling hills and the Alps is a typical Piedmontese farmhouse with which leads to the garden through French doors, and a bathroom,
spacious outbuildings and includes basic farm equipment for vineyard laundry room and carport. Two staircases lead to the upper floor. The
tending. The habitable part of the property consists of a 3 bedroom, 2 first leads to 2 bedrooms, one with walk-in closet, and a bathroom
bathroom accommodation with bright and airy interiors. On the ground with sauna. On this floor is a balcony. The second staircase leads to 2
floor, a kitchen, dining room, sitting room, spacious storage room and more bedrooms and a bathroom. On the second floor there are 3 more
boiler room. The property includes two car/tractor boxes, more rooms for bedrooms and a bathroom. In the left wing is a guest house with separate
farm machinery and a spacious L-shaped hayloft that could be converted. access. This consists of a kitchen, bathroom, bedroom and a small
In the basement is a vaulted cellar used for wine storage. Ref 443 veranda. There is also a vaulted cellar in the basement. Ref 436
Price €600,000 Contact Verde Abitare +39 328 379 2917 Price €490,000 Contact Verde Abitare +39 328 379 2917
[email protected] www.verdeabitare.it [email protected] www.verdeabitare.it
€250,000-€500,000 €250,000-€500,000
PIEMONTE – ASTI PIEMONTE – MOMBERCELLI
A luxury semi-detached house with fenced garden and courtyard, with A luxury 2 bedroom townhouse with manicured garden and terrace.
a total outdoor area of about 1,000 sqm and sufficient space to build a The property boasts a high standard renovation, and is fully furnished
swimming pool. The house extends over three floors. In the basement and ready to move into. On the ground floor is the entrance and a stone
there is a beautiful cellar with original vaults, which would be ideal to be staircase, also a kitchen with fireplace, a lounge, a bathroom and a
transformed into a party room. On the first floor there is a spacious living lift. In the basement there is a lovely vaulted cellar and a boiler room.
room, a kitchen with double doors and a bathroom. Upstairs there are Upstairs there are 2 bedrooms, a walk-in wardrobe, a spacious bathroom,
3 bedrooms, a corridor, a spacious bathroom and a walk-in closet. The a terrace and a balcony. Ref 462
house has modern systems, double-glazed windows and good insulation Price €280,000 Contact Verde Abitare +39 328 379 2917
under the roof. Ref 458 [email protected] www.verdeabitare.it
Price €280,000 Contact Verde Abitare +39 328 379 2917
[email protected] www.verdeabitare.it

T HE FINAL WORD
#6
CATERINA
SFORZA
(1463-1509)
Caterina Sforza, the “Tiger of Forlì”, was a Countess
and a Lady, and a truly uncompromising individual
C
aterina Sforza was,
depending on who you
ask, either a brave and
courageous woman who
stood her ground in a
This portrait man’s world, or a cruel and vengeful tyrant
of Caterina who showed no mercy to her enemies.
Sforza can be The truth is probably a combination
seen at the of the two. Given her circumstances,
Pinoteca in
it would have had to have been.
Forlì
Her grandfather, Francesco Sforza,
was a condottiere of obscure birth; and
Caterina was born the illegitimate daughter
of Galeazzo Maria Sforza and Lucrezia
Landriani, the wife of one of Galeazzo’s
best friends. Galeazzo would become Duke
of Milan when Caterina was still a toddler,
but the family was not yet fully established.
Caterina would have to marry well.
When she was 10, she was betrothed to
Girolamo Riario, Count of Forlì and Lord
of Imola, by which she became a Countess
and a Lady. Furthermore, Girolamo’s uncle
(or perhaps actually his father) was Pope
Sixtus IV, and Caterina joined her husband
in Rome when she was 14. And it was there
that she first made a name for herself.
When the Pope died, and various
factions were battling to get their own man
elected to replace him, Caterina, 21 years
old and seven months pregnant, rallied
her husband’s troops and seized the papal
fortress of Castel Sant’Angelo. It took quite
a lot of persuading to get her out again.
When she was 25, and standing on the
ramparts of La Rocca di Ravaldino, facing
the troops of the Borgia, who had taken her
(by now several) children and threatened to
kill them if she did not surrender, she lifted
Ritratto di Caterina Sforza by Lorenzo di Credi
her skirts and shouted down at them: “Do

it if you want! Hang them in front of me!
Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons
Here I have enough to make more!”

When the rebels were finally defeated,
she had their heads set on pikes.
Uncompromising is the word. In her
later years, when she lived in Florence,
she confided to a monk, “If I could write
everything that happened I would shock
the world.” Like she hadn’t already.

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High in the Province of Trapani, in western Sicily, stands a concrete labyrinth

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