Contents

Title Page
Foreword
Introduction
A Culinary Melting Pot
The Pillars of Mexican Cooking

BASICS
MARINADES, RUBS AND SALSAS
EARLY MORNING
BREAKFAST
LUNCH
SNACKS
SUNDOWN DRINKS
DINNER
Glossary
Index
About the Author
Acknowledgements
Copyright Page
 Foreword

Growing up in rural France, in my small town of Tarbes, we ate the

rustic dishes of Gascony. That was all we knew. So I can’t claim a
lifelong love of Mexican food. I was barely aware of the regional
diversity of cooking even in France. It was only when I trained to be
a chef, working in kitchens around the country, that I came fully to
appreciate that the tastiest food often reflects the produce and
traditions of a region.
A grandmother with no formal training can often produce dishes
with more flavour than those of a classically trained chef, for all his
or her finesse.
It was almost twenty years ago that I finally made it to Mexico,
and it’s fair to say my expectations were not high. I’d only tried
Mexican food in London and it was not good. It feels like the
English want chilli with everything. (It’s the same with Indian
food.)
I only spent a few days in Mexico City, but I’ll never forget
visiting a huge food market. I was surprised by the variety of
vegetables and fruit. And there were sheets of crackling hanging
from the ceiling. They would cut you a piece, weigh it, and you
could walk along eating beautiful tasting food. Everything looked so
good, and you could see that this was a country with a strong food
culture, even if it wasn’t quite so well-known overseas in those
days.
We ate in taquerias and roadside stalls, and in more formal
restaurants, too. It was then that I started to appreciate that Mexican
cooking is more complex than people sometimes imagine. There’s
subtlety, and dishes are built with layers of flavour. Yes, some of
those flavours are robust but, as with all good cooking, there is
depth and there is balance. And there are colours, too. It’s a cuisine
where you can feast with your eyes.
My other fond memory is of my first visit to Santo Remedio. I
love family-run restaurants, and the hospitality shown by Edson and
his wife Natalie was second-to-none. There was warmth and there
was joy so you felt happy even before the food arrived. When it did,
it took me straight back to Mexico City.
I hope you enjoy this book as much as I do. For me, it brings
back happy memories and also brings Mexico to life. While the
focus is on Mexico City, it also points to the diversity of regional
cuisines, so I guess I am going to have to return and do some
exploring. For now, I find myself looking at recipes such as Smoky
Cauliflower with PipiánBlanco ; Pibil-style Pork Ribs; and Lamb
Shanks, Barbacoa-style and I just want to get cooking. The recipes
are accessible, even for a Frenchman.

Pierre Koffmann
 Introduction

I have been a serious eater, or, as you would say in Mexico, a

tragón, since the age of five. One of my earliest childhood
memories was on holiday in Acapulco. The once-glamorous seaside
spot was made famous in the 1950s when it was frequented by
Hollywood film stars like Elizabeth Taylor and Ronald Reagan. It is
where Mexico City’s inhabitants would go at the weekends to
escape the hustle and bustle of the city when I was a child in the
early eighties.
I was at the palapa (stall) ready to enjoy breakfast, my favourite
meal of the day. I was queueing where one of the cooks was
preparing Mexican antojitos (corn-based snacks) on a comal (a
Mexican flat-topped griddle). I stood there patiently, waiting my
turn to order the black bean sopes I had decided on for breakfast.
But adult after adult received their food while I was left waiting.
What I hadn’t realised what that the cook couldn’t see me, as I was
still so small. Though I didn’t mind the being ignored. I was
captivated.
I watched the cook roll round balls of masa (corn dough), placed
them between two neatly cut plastic sheets and then press them in
the tortilla press, forming perfectly round discs. She placed them
carefully on the comal for just the right amount of time for them to
cook, before pinching the edges to make them in to sopes. After
which, they were smothered in black beans and topped with fresh
cheese and cream.
Luckily, one of the other guests soon noticed me and ensured I
received my sopes, and for the next few days the cook never failed
to spot me again. I continued to enjoy the daily ritual, my perfect
start to the day: the joy of watching and smelling fresh corn masa
being cooked and popped on to my plate, and then the delight of
devouring it at my table. You could say this marked the beginning
of my culinary journey.
I was born and raised in Mexico City. It is chaotic, busy and
always moving. It’s a melting pot of flavours and food from across
Mexico, one of the most biodiverse countries on this planet.
For me, as for all Mexicans, food is an integral part of life. There
is no social gathering, festivity or event where food is not essential.
Growing up in Mexico City, I was accustomed to regularly visiting
its markets, street food stalls, fondas, cafes and, later, with my father
José María, its cantinas.
What makes a cuisine so special and unique are not only the
recipes, ingredients and cooking techniques, but also the stories and
traditions that surround the food. And, for me, so many of my
memories are steeped in the food I grew up eating.
 One of my favourite memories as a child was going shopping
with my mother Lucero and sister Meri to Coyoacán Market. A task
that was always rewarded by early morning quesadillas from a
specific puesto (stand) that my mother used to like. Communal
benches in the middle of the market were surrounded by puestos,
offering a wide range of options, from tacos and tostadas to seafood
and freshly squeezed juices. What we know today as artisanal food
markets have been the norm in Mexico for centuries. That journey
to Coyoacán to buy fresh produce for family meals was always
accompanied by juices, freshly baked pastries and hot chocolate
from different traders. It was a great way to start any morning and
an impossible trip to resist.
Outings to Mexico’s historic centre with my grandmother always
included a visit to Churrería el Moro, which my mother and even
my grandmother would visit as a child. Opened in 1935 by
Spaniards fleeing the Civil War, it was a special treat for me to visit
the famous churrería, watch the churrero pipe the dough into the
boiling hot oil, and then emerge, crisp and light, moments later; to
be dusted in sugar. Served piping hot on melamine plates and
accompanied by a hot chocolate for dipping, they were the ultimate
treat. Visits here were strewn with stories of my mother’s childhood
visiting her father’s shops in the historic centre, which he had run
for decades. Ultramarinos Canada was a shop which Abuelo Rafa
ran for over thirty years. Probably it was one of the first shops in
Mexico to sell the very best of Spanish produce, from olive oil to
tinned sardines and turrones. After this, in 1968 he opened a sweet
shop called El Rey de las Cajetas, selling hundreds of types of
traditional Mexican sweets in De la Palma Street, Mexico’s City
Historic Centre.
Like this, there are an infinite number of culinary journeys that
we had as a family, which I will never forget. Some kept evolving as
we tried new and different foods, and some of them remained
unchanged weekly rituals; we become loyal to those places, whether
the local taqueria, torteria or traditional restaurants like El Arroyo
on the outskirts of the city for a traditional barbacoa. It was here we
would often go for impromptu celebrations with my family and my
godparents Lili and Daniel, and their sons Daniel and Lalo, who
were like brothers to me.
Even a simple roadside stand can evoke in me the most
wonderful of memories. Like the Milanesa torta (a crispy schnitzel
Mexican sandwich) stand outside high school in the south of
Mexico City. They were delicious, filling and cheap, and you would
eat them at the side of the stall for lunch. They were the ideal fuel
for a student on a budget. I’m not sure if that stand exists anymore,
but those wonderful tortas will forever punctuate those teenage
years. Years spent rowing for the national rowing team, watching
arthouse films at the Cineteca Nacional and eating my way around
the city before leaving at the age of eighteen.
I was very lucky to grow up in a family and culture where good
food was appreciated and available all year round. As I grew older, I
learned to appreciate iconic restaurants in Mexico City – places like
El Cardenal, Hacienda de Los Morales and El Bajio – which
influenced my love and appreciation not only for great traditional
food but also for impeccable hospitality.
I started cooking for groups of friends when my wife Natalie and
I lived in a loft in Brooklyn, New York, back in 2010. I was inspired
by the produce that was available in the bodegas in our
neighbourhood, Bushwick, run by Mexican immigrants.
I began cooking at home, mixing flavours from my memories of
family dishes and inspired by the regional street food of Mexico. I
don’t consider myself as someone who has a great visual memory,
which is why I am always taking pictures of sights I want to
remember. However, I do have a great taste memory. This has
helped me a lot when recalling iconic dishes made by both my
grandmothers, as well as the puestos, fondas, markets and, of
course, restaurants of the fabulous and never-ending offering of
Mexico City. These, combined with my travels, influence the food I
create. From Baja California in the north of the country to the
Yucatan in the south and my time spent doing a stage in the kitchen
of one of Mexico’s greatest chefs, Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca
in Oaxaca, which was immensely inspiring.
In 2014 Natalie and I moved to London, where we decided to set
up Santo Remedio. Santo Remedio translates literally as ‘holy
remedy’, an expression my mother often uses and which means a
fortuitous or serendipitous solution to a problem. I wanted to share
with Londoners the food I missed the most from markets, my home
and family celebrations. We started off running pop-ups, supper
clubs and market stalls before establishing our restaurant close to
Tower Bridge. Carefully curated dishes, music, decor and service
that can transport you to Mexico and make you feel happy is what
we constantly strive to create. Whether it’s the pork carnitas with
salsa verde like those you can find in Mexico City, fish tacos
inspired by Baja California or huevos motuleños from the Yucatan,
all our dishes tell part of my story.
Many of the days writing this book were fuelled by foods
delivered by local restaurants in Mexico City. As I write this, I am
waiting for a delivery from La Barraca Valenciana, a Spanish
torteria in Coyoacán in the south of Mexico City, famed for its
market, picturesque square and La Casa Azul, home of Mexico’s
world-famous artists Frida Khalo and Diego Rivera.
It is December 2020 and, after almost twenty years living outside
the city, vendors evoke once again the memories of my childhood. I
had forgotten just how inextricably linked food and sound are in this
city. Like an urban bird call, every vendor has their own unique
siren.
The camotes vendor, who sells sweet potatoes roasted over
charcoals and topped with condensed milk, and whose whistle is
known to all; the person cycling from street to street shouting
‘¡Tamales calientitos!’ (hot tamales), who I used to rush out to see
as a child; there is the esquites cart, selling Mexico’s most iconic
ingredient, grilled or boiled corn kernels served with chilli powder,
queso fresco or aged cheese, lime juice and mayonnaise, one of my
favourite childhood snacks. Not forgetting the tacos de canasta
sellers, whose unmistakeable bike horns can be heard around the
streets at lunchtime.
Whether they be tamaleros, camoteros, fruteros or
chicharroneros, all those who trade from the streets, visiting street
by street, they would all bring a smile to my face as they came to
my doorstep. Just as they still do – for the millions who live and
worked in this sprawling city and for who the food is not only
sustenance for the long hours worked, but also a moment of comfort
and joy.
 A Culinary Melting Pot

Mexico City is one of the world’s biggest metropolises. There is a

constant buzz and people are always on the move. The smell of
street food being cooked up over charcoals, music blaring from
buses and the notoriously bad traffic can all be an assault on the
senses. But it is also beautiful, magical and surreal. With one of the
biggest urban parks in the world, Chapultepec, and over 150 official
museums, as well as beautiful architecture, murals, and colonial
streets, it is a truly magnificent city – and that’s before you even get
to know its culinary wonders.
Known among Mexicans of my generation as DF – which stands
for Distrito Federal –Mexico City is the capital of the country. It is
a melting pot socially, economically, politically, and of the country’s
many culinary cultures.
People from the capital are known as Chilangos, and there is a
magazine of the same name for locals. If you arrive by plane at
night, the lights of the valley and surrounding mountains sprawling
for miles below you are a truly magnificent sight. Like a gigantic
golden jewel, a sea of gold, it goes on forever.
 Mexico City’s metropolitan area and surrounding states – Puebla,
Estado de Mexico, Hidalgo, Tlaxcala and Morelos – create a
gastronomic experience like no other, with an array of tastes and
smells to delight the senses.
This metropolis of over 20 million hungry people is an unlimited
maze of late night tacos stands, breakfast juice puestos and lunch
torta stands. A monster that feeds hungry Chilangos three times a
day, with something to eat on every corner and for every craving
one might yearn for at any time of the day or night.
What you will find virtually everywhere you go are tacos. As I
once said to someone who asked me when we eat tacos: tacos are a
way of life. You simply can’t separate a Mexican from a taco, as my
dear friend Richard Ampudia says. And there is nowhere this is
more true than in Mexico City, where you can enjoy a variety of
tacos for breakfast, lunch or dinner – and at any time between. I
enjoy trying all different kinds of tacos, from the traditional to the
most inventive. Even though I believe there are no fixed rules for
what you put in your tacos, I do think they have to work around
three fundamental principles: tortillas, fillings and salsas.
According to Mexican chef and researcher Ricardo Munoz
Zurita, the perfect taco can be eaten in three bites: just enough to
satisfy your craving and leave you wanting more.
Nowhere is this better exemplified than In Mexico’s historic
centre at Los Cucuyos, which serves tacos de cabeza (beef head
tacos.) It is a hole-in-the-wall that is open twenty-three hours a day,
closing for just one hour in the middle of the night to clean and prep
for the next day.
 The tacos can be made with brains, ears, tongue, cheek or any
other part of the head – not a single part is wasted. The bubbling pot
of lard holds all the elements, which are chopped to order, served on
two tortillas, as is customary in Mexico, and sprinkled with
coriander, onion and salsa verde. They are incredibly tasty, with the
mix of fat, spice and acidity creating a mind-blowing flavour with
every bite.
But a tacos doesn’t have to be simple, it can also be incredibly
complex and refined. Pujol, which in 2019 made it to number
twelve on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list has a tasting menu
dedicated solely to tacos.
Before Pujol – and a few other contemporary restaurants –
opened, many Chilangos regarded European cuisine, such as French
or Italian food, as fine dining, with regional cuisine less highly
regarded.
 For many, this is the restaurant that put Mexico on the map as a
culinary destination, and gave its cuisine the international
recognition it deserved as one of the most complex, rich and
fascinating in the world.
Just as it looks like the city is finally going to sleep, there is one
place that starts coming to life. Trucks arrive from all over the
country to fill almost thirty kilometres (eighteen miles) of aisles
with fresh produce from all over Mexico. This is one of the biggest
markets in the world, Mexico’s Central de Abastos, which some
would say is a city within a city.
It’s an enormous market with its own banks, trading system,
recreational areas, non-written rules and, of course, taquerias and
food stands. It is a hub from which the entire city is fed. Everyone
who runs a food business outlet, from fruit sellers to restaurateurs,
and anyone whose business is selling or researching food, from
photographers to anthropologists, will have visited the Central de
Abastos.
Markets have always been central to our society. Our biodiversity
and varied climate allows the terroir to produce a wide range of
produce, from fruit and vegetables to coffee beans, cacao beans,
vanilla beans – and more. In fact, Mexico introduced vanilla, cacao,
avocados, tomatoes, corn and chillies to cuisines found around the
world.
My recipes are a collection of the dishes I crave the most, made
using the ingredients I treasure the most: cacao, corn, chillies and
tomatoes, which I have combined with ingredients I have learned to
love while living in the US and UK for the past fifteen years. Many
of my recipes, like the Padrón Rajas con Crema or my Spicy
Chocolate de Agua are a product of this integration of ingredients. I
don’t like to feel too restricted, and really enjoy adapting recipes to
suit the local fresh produce.
 Starting the day with Atole de Fresas, and French Toast with
Agave, Cacao Nibs and Bacon might not sound very traditional, but
for me it has elements of Mexican dishes, combined with the best of
English ingredients like its unrivalled sweet strawberries. It’s my
version of the atole drink enjoyed for centuries by Mexicans.
French toast with bacon and agave used to be my father’s treat for a
Saturday morning – so it simply had to be included it in this
cookbook.
This book has been inspired by a leisurely weekend in Mexico
City, with the types of dishes you would eat at different times of day
and which evoke a sense of the city at that time of day – whether
enjoying a good book on an early morning while sipping coffee and
eating a pastry in La Roma; enjoying early evening drinks in the
picturesque historic neighbourhood of La Condesa; or a late night in
one of the iconic cantinas of the historic centre listening to
mariachis after visiting the impressive Art Deco concert hall at
Palacio de Bellas Artes. As the stories in the subsequent chapters
show, there is always a time of day or night when the food and
drinks of Mexico City have something to offer.
 The Pillars of Mexican Cooking

Before it was known as Mexico City, Tenochtitlan was the ancient

capital of the Aztec empire founded in around 1325 on Lake
Texcoco. It is believed that the city was founded by a group of
Nahua tribes who, according to legend, decided to settle where they
saw an eagle perched on a cactus on a lake. As the legend goes, this
was the lake on which Mexico City is now built.
Mexico City is located in a valley surrounded by mountains and
volcanoes – the most iconic ones are Popocatépetl and Iztaccihuatl.
Centuries ago, it was made up of many adjoining canals that
connected the markets and different areas of this bustling city, with
boats transporting both people and goods from across the territory.
At the time of the Spanish invasion it was bigger and cleaner than
any city in Europe. These markets, known as tianguis, were the
centres of both society and commerce. To this day, the city’s
markets are an integral part of its social and economic fabric.
One of the most important areas of the city for me is Xochimilco,
which pre-dates the Spanish conquest and has, remarkably, survived
to this day. It has an elaborate system of chinampas, linked by
waterways. The word chinampa comes from the Náhuatl word
chinámitl. Chinampas were built in prehispanic times to grow crops
by piling up mud from the bottom of the lakes in the Valley of
Mexico to create small rectangular areas of fertile land divided by
canals. The mud is extremely rich in organic matter and is kept in
place by creating a fence with pieces of wood. The soil absorbs
water and nutrients by filtration so is not dependent on rain or the
seasons. This technique converts land some would consider
unusable into an extremely productive food system.
Between 1400 and 1600 CE, the chinampas were at their peak in
Tenochtitlan, and over eighty different types of plants were grown.
However, some researchers say that this ‘technology’ has been use
for centuries – if not millennia.
These incredibly fertile plots of land are used to this day to grow
corn, tomatoes, beans, chillies and other products that are then sold
in the city’s markets. What makes these man-made areas of land so
extraordinary is that they are so rich in nutrients that they can be
harvested three times a year. The traditional method of crop rotation
for the chinampas is still used to this day. Sadly, the expansion of
the city and a lack of appreciation for this traditional method of
growing means Xochimilco is in danger of dying out. Considering
the chinampas survived an invasion and subsequent conquest, this
would, represent an immensely tragic end to the type of technology
this planet needs now, more than ever.
The cuisine of Mexico City is made up of a mixture of indigenous
ingredients and dishes and produce bought to Mexico by the
Spanish conquest in 1521. This is when pork, chicken, beef and
lamb, as well as dairy products, were introduced to Mexico, then
known as the New Spain. Many ingredients also came from Asia via
the Phillipines and from Africa and the Middle East because of the
Moorish conquest of Spain. Mexico, in turn, exported chillies,
chocolate, vanilla, corn, tomatoes and avocados, among other
ingredients.
 In the late 1930s, because of the Spanish Civil War, many
Spanish artists, professionals and others looking to flee, found in
Mexico a welcoming new home. In turn they brought with them
their culture, vitality and culinary traditions, introducing them to
Mexican society through restaurants and grocery shops. This
included restaurants, grocery shops and traditional dishes. There are
still many Spanish-style cantinas, like Covadonga and El Sella,
whose menus offer classic Spanish dishes including chamorros,
morcilla or pescado a la sal. They have been served in the city for
so long, they are an integral part of Mexico’s cuisine.
Bacalao a la vizcaina is one such dish. It represents the fusion of
Spanish heritage and Mexican cooking, adapted and adopted by
Mexico City’s inhabitants in around the 1950s. This dry and salted
fish, cooked with tomatoes, onions, parsley and chillies, is now the
classic Christmas dish enjoyed by virtually every family in Mexico
City at Christmas.
Lebanese immigrants, who arrived in the 1920s and 1930s,
bought their shawarmastyle kebabs, which were again adapted using
Mexican chillies, pork instead of lamb, and tortillas instead of pitta
bread – and so tacos al pastor were born. They are now served in the
hundreds of taquerias that are dedicated to this one dish.
Traditional Mexican food was declared an Intangible Cultural
Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010 due to the diversity and
complexity of the cuisine, as well as the history of many of the
dishes. For those of us who have dedicated our lives to sharing these
dishes, the ten-year anniversary of this declaration marked a
growing worldwide appreciation of what the late Anthony Bourdain
once described as “one of the most underrated, misunderstood and
underrepresented of all cuisines.” But thanks to the work of
researchers like Diana Kennedy, who has dedicated decades
researching Mexican ingredients, recipes and cooking techniques
well in to her 90s, more people are understanding the complexities
of this cuisine outside of Mexico.
The pillars or roots of Mexican cooking are traditionally based on
corn or maize, beans and, of course chillies, including all their
possible variations. There are over one hundred varieties of corn –
heirloom corn – that varies in form, colour and flavour. Blue corn,
for example, is often used while preparing antojitos Mexicanos
(corn snacks) and, when available, I would choose it over the
traditional yellow corn for a more earthy flavour. There is also red,
purple and even black corn, all with different flavour profiles and
textures. Popping corn is native to Mexico, too, so every time you
have popcorn, you are basically enjoying Mexican food. As is the
case with amaranth and chia: these so-called ‘superfoods’ are
ancient grains consumed for centuries by Mexican families.
For me, cooking is not only a survival activity of transforming
food like our ancestors, it’s a pleasure, turned into a passion, turned
into a profession.
 When we cook, we build flavour profiles as we incorporate
ingredients. I would probably say that one misconception many
have about Mexican food is that the savoury dishes have to be spicy.
We certainly use chillies in the majority of our dishes, most
importantly adobos, moles, recaudos or marinades. However, in
cooking, as in life, balance is key. When mixing different flavours,
including chillies, we consider and balance tastes like saltiness,
sweetness, sourness, bitterness and umami – the mission of chillies
is to enhance flavour. They are also good for our immune system.
Aztecs and Mayans used to combine cacao and chilli with water
to make a delicious ceremonial drink that provided nutrients but
also kicked endorphins into the body. Ultimately, chillies were
considered to have medicinal purposes, being good for the
metabolism and general health.
When cooking at home, I really hope you can incorporate some
personal touches into the majority of the basic recipes in this
cookbook, especially those from the Basics chapter and the
Marinades, Rubs & Salsas chapter. As you get used to the recipes,
you can tweak according to your family’s preferences.
Key for the success of any recipe are good-quality, in-season
ingredients, as well as love when preparing the food. The majority
of the dishes in this cookbook are broken down into sub-recipes,
meaning some components can be prepped in advance to save time,
and adapted as needed. They are structured just like at our
restaurant, Santo Remedio, making it easier for you to prep in
advance for yourself, family or friends. For example, Caldillo de
Jitomate is so versatile, it can be used as a base for Sopa de Tortilla,
Huevos Motuleños or Hibiscus Flower Enchiladas, and can be
prepped in advance. It can also build something more complex if
combined with other components like Chipotles en Adobo, Salsa de
Árbol and Guajillo Adobo. These, in addition to pickles, salsas,
marinades, ketchup and chamoy can become part of your new
seasonal family cooking essentials.
 The aim of this cookbook is to inspire you rather than to impose
on you the tyranny of following recipes to the letter. Ultimately, it is
the pleasure of cooking and feeding others that inspires us to cook
for our family and friends. So I encourage you to be creative. There
is no need to feel limited if you cannot find a particular ingredient:
you can use the fish of your preference; opt for meco chipotle
chillies instead of morita; or use Thai green chillies if it’s not
possible to source green jalapeños. It is just a question of keeping
the balance by understanding each ingredient – and that is only
achieved by cooking and tasting, more cooking and more tasting.
Let me warn you that preparing good masa dough requires time
and patience. I hope you will enjoy making tamales like we do at
home, and that you can have fun making the ones from my recipes.
You can also create new variations of tamales by incorporating
leftover Sunday roast meats or stews, which can easily be wrapped
in corn masa dough and steamed. This cookbook is not focused on
traditional recipes. Instead, the purpose of it is to encourage you to
discover new flavours at home while learning about new ingredients
and techniques from Mexican cuisine.
hese are some of the essentials of Mexican cooking. They permeate
many of its dishes and are the starting point of several recipes in

T this book. From the pickles to the fresh cheese, these elements
are used in tacos, tostadas, stews and soups, or as
accompaniments to almost any dishes. These are the foundations
from which we create proper Mexican food, and they are central to
so many dishes. I developed some of these recipes from memories
of my grandmother’s dishes. The smell of corn dough or the aroma
of poblano peppers grilling on the stove can take me back to my
childhood, when these smells would waft through her house. As a
child, the slow cooking methods integral to Mexican cuisine made
it feel like an eternity before these dishes materialised into the main
meal of the day. Mexican food truly is slow food, but it’s this time
and dedication that turns simple ingredients into something so
sublime. Pambazos, tamales and Chiles Rellenos were my birthday
treats from Abuela Carmela and I’m eternally grateful for that.
Classic Guacamole
‘How do you prepare the perfect guacamole?’ is a question I have
often been asked since I started living outside Mexico. My answer
is always the same: it all depends on using fully ripe Mexican
avocados. Their creaminess is just pure joy, and they only need to
be gently mixed with a few ingredients for a delicious guacamole.
In Mexico, we use the word desflemar to describe the action of
adding citrus juices, vinegar or simply water to vegetables or
chillies in order to reduce their acidity or spice level while retaining
their flavour. In this case, by adding lime or lemon juice to the
chopped onion, we are toning down the strong essence onions have
when they are freshly cut. Guacamole is usually made with white
onions, but here I prefer to use red, because I find them slightly
sweeter in the UK, similar to our cebollas blancas (Mexican white
onions) which are not as strong as brown onions. Adding acidity to
the guacamole with lime or lemon juice also prevents the
oxidisation of the avocado pulp, which stops it from turning brown
or black. Mexican grandmas traditionally leave the avocado stones
(pits) in the guacamole to prevent oxidation. You can do both.
SERVES 4

¼ red onion, finely chopped

juice of 1 lime
2 ripe tomatoes, halved, deseeded and finely chopped
2 ripe avocados, peeled and stoned
15 g (½ oz) coriander (cilantro), finely chopped
1 green serrano or jalapeño chilli, deseeded and finely chopped (to
taste)
fine sea salt
1. Place the onion in a bowl and pour over half the lime juice. Set aside.
2. Place the chopped tomatoes in a bowl and sprinkle with a generous pinch
of salt. Mix well, then pour the tomatoes into a sieve placed over another
bowl. The salt will enhance their flavour and also cause them to release a
watery juice. We don’t want that in our guacamole, but you can save it
for marinades or Salsa Roja Cruda or Cadillo de Jitomate.
3. Place the avocado flesh in a mixing bowl and add the rest of the lime
juice. Use a fork to crush the avocado until it is mashed, but still firm and
chunky – you don’t want it to become puréed or watery. Drain the onions
and add them to the bowl, along with the drained chopped tomatoes and
coriander. Use a spatula to fold the mixture gently together without
mashing the avocado further.
4. Add the chopped chilli to taste and adjust the seasoning. That’s it.
There’s nothing else to add – except maybe the avocado stone!
Chiles en Escabeche
You will see big jars of these pickles in torterias and fondas. You
can really taste all the flavours from the spices, but they are not too
spicy. When preparing my pickles, I like combining layers of
flavours by using aromatics like coriander seeds, honey and smoky
dried chillies. Enjoy them in your favourite torta or sandwich, or
enjoy them with Tacos de Canasta and a beer.
MAKES 2X 1-LITRE (34-FL OZ) JARS

180 g (6½ oz) baby potatoes, halved

1 litre (34 fl oz/4 cups) water
250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) cider vinegar
3 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1½ teaspoons salt
2 pasilla mixe chillies (dried morita or meco chipotle chillies can also
work)
4 bay leaves
90 g (3¼ oz) baby carrots, halved
100 g (3½ oz) baby corn, halved
250 g (9 oz) green or red jalapeño chillies

1. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan of boiling salted water. Place over
a high heat and boil for 10 minutes or until tender, then drain.
2. Place the water, vinegar, honey, coriander seeds, salt, pasilla mixe chillies
and bay leaves in a large non-reactive saucepan over a medium heat.
Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Add the potatoes
to the pan along with the carrots, corn and jalapeños and remove from the
heat. Let it cool down for 10 minutes.
3. Divide the vegetables between the two jars, then top up with pickling
liquid. The pickles will be ready to eat the next day and will keep in the
refrigerator for up to 1 month.

An easy way to sterilise the jars is to put them in a preheated

TIP:
oven at 170°C/150°C fan/340°F/gas mark 3½ for 20 minutes.
Remove from the oven and leave to cool.
Mojo de Ajo
Mojo de ajo is the secret to easy Mexican cooking. Once cooked
and stored in the refrigerator, it becomes the ready-made base
ingredient for guisados and adobos, and perfect for vegetarian
refritos like the Avocado Black Bean Refritos. The garlic cloves are
slowly confited in oil, acquiring a unique caramelised flavour
which is a seasoning in itself.
MAKES 300 G (10½ OZ)

300 g (10½ oz) garlic cloves, peeled (see Tip)

about 200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) grapeseed oil
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

1. Place the garlic cloves and oil in a small saucepan, making sure the garlic
are completely covered, almost submerged. Add a bit more oil if needed.
Place the saucepan over a medium heat and bring to a simmer, then
reduce the heat to low and cook slowly for 30 minutes until the garlic
cloves turn golden-brown. They should be soft and break easily.
2. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Add the salt and check the
seasoning.
3. Once cool, use a hand-held blender to blend the garlic to a smooth paste,
making sure any excess oil is properly emulsified into the mixture. You
will find that smaller batches tend to separate slightly, which is
absolutely fine.
4. The mojo de ajo will keep in a glass container in the refrigerator for a
couple of weeks.

NOTE:For a bigger batch of mojo de ajo, place the garlic and oil in
an ovenproof container and roast at 160°C/140°C fan/325°F/gas
mark 3 for 45 minutes–1 hour, until the garlic cloves are soft and
golden-brown. Remove from oven, season with salt and allow to
cool before blending.

TIP:To peel the garlic cloves, halve them first. The peel will then
detach easily. Using the tip of the knife, remove the bitter germ
from the centre.
Onion Sofrito
As with the Mojo de Ajo, I like to make a large batch of this and
keep it in the refrigerator. Once you have it, making other recipes
becomes a lot quicker and easier. Adding the garlic paste intensifies
the flavour of the onion and the emulsion of onion, garlic and oil
acts as a natural thickener.
MAKES 350 G (12 OZ)

150 g (5 oz) MojodeAjo

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) onions, finely sliced
½ teaspoon fine sea salt

1. Heat the Mojo de Ajo in a medium-sized sauté pan over a low heat. When
it’s hot and sizzling, add the onions. Stir for a few minutes making sure
all the onion slices are well coated with Mojo de Ajo, then reduce the heat
to low and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Keep an eye on the onions,
stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan regularly, and checking to
make sure they cook evenly and nothing catches or burns.
2. When the onions are soft and slightly golden, add the salt and stir well,
then take off the heat and leave to cool.
3. It will keep in a glass container in the refrigerator for 4–5 days.
Caldillo de Jitomate
One of the first memories I have of my Abuela Carmela is her
cooking this. It is the base for so many guisados, like Chiles
Rellenos. I believe each family has its own recipe, with plenty of
variations. You can use this caldillo de jitomate for motuleños and
enchiladas. It is ideal for introducing Mexican cooking to your
kids: I make it this way at home because my kids can’t handle spice
yet, and it’s the perfect base for a non-spicy Sopa de Tortilla.
I do, however, like to add chillies for a deeper flavour. Dried or
smoked chillies – ancho, mulato, chipotle, meco – will add some
richness. Toast them in a comal or heavy, non-stick frying pan,
pressing them down with a spatula, until they are soft and pliable.
Be careful not to burn them. Simply add these to the caldillo when
reducing.
MAKES 1.3 LITRES (44 FL OZ/5¼ CUPS)

1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) ripe plum tomatoes, quartered

2 red onions, quartered
60 g (2 oz) garlic cloves, peeled
200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) water
50 g (2 oz) MojodeAjo
4 bay leaves
6 dried avocado leaves
1½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
brown sugar or agave syrup, to taste (optional)

1. Place the tomatoes and onions in a blender or food processor. Add the
garlic cloves and about 50 ml (1¾ fl oz/3 tablespoons) of the water.
Blend well in order to obtain a smooth purée.
2. Place a large, heavy-based saucepan or pot over a medium heat. Add the
Mojo de Ajo, bay leaves and avocado leaves, and fry for a few minutes to
release some flavour. Pour in the blended tomato mixture and stir until
mixed properly. Add the rest of the water and mix well again. Bring to a
simmer, then cook over a low heat for 20–25 minutes, until its colour
changes to a deep red. Stir occasionally during this time, making sure
nothing catches on the bottom of the pan.
3. Season with salt and pepper, and a bit of brown sugar or agave syrup if
you need to balance the acidity. Use the sauce straight away, or leave to
cool. It will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4
days.
Cebolla Morada
These sharp, citrusy pickled onions carry a hint of sweetness that
cuts well through rich, fatty meats. They are ideal for cochinita
pibil, one of my favourite Yucatecan dishes, but also work well in
salads, as garnishes and more.
MAKES A 1-LITRE (34-FL OZ/1 CUP) JAR

200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) lime juice

100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) orange juice
150 ml (5 fl oz/scant ⅔ cup) cider vinegar
20 g (¾ oz/5 teaspoons) caster (superfine) sugar
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon Mexican oregano
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) red onions, halved and finely sliced
You will need a 1-litre (34-fl oz) glass jar

1. In a jug (pitcher), combine the lime juice, orange juice, cider vinegar,
sugar and salt. Stir well until the sugar and salt are dissolved. Add the
oregano and stir once again.
2. Place some of the onion slices into the jar and pour over some of the
citrus brine. Press down on the onions with a wooden spoon to compress
them. Add more onion slices and citrus brine, and press down again.
Continue in this way until the onions are well compacted and the jar is
full.
3. Make sure the onions remain submerged and leave to pickle for 48 hours
in the refrigerator, shaking the jar every so often. After this time, they’ll
be ready to use, but they will keep in the refrigerator for up to a month.
Hibiscus Cordial
Hibiscus flowers are high in antioxidants and vitamin C. I use the
reserved cooked flowers left in this recipe to make a plant-based
filling for quesadillas, enchiladas or empanadas, pan-frying them
with Mojo de Ajo, Caldillo de Jitomate and a touch of Chipotles en
Adobo. Not all hibiscus flowers are edible, though, so for more
details.
MAKES 1.5 LITRES (53 FL OZ/6 CUPS) CORDIAL AND 250 G (9 OZ) COOKED
FLOWERS FOR USE IN OTHER RECIPES

100 g (3½ oz) hibiscus flowers

1.5 litres (53 fl oz/6 cups) water
350 g (12 oz/1¾ cups) caster (superfine) sugar

1. Carefully wash the flowers under running water to remove any sand,
stones or dirt stuck between the petals.
2. Place the water in a large saucepan over a medium heat and bring to the
boil. Add the flowers and cook for 10–15 minutes, stirring constantly,
until the flowers are soft but still firm and have released all of their
flavour and colour into the water.
3. Remove the flowers with a skimmer or slotted spoon and set aside for use
in another recipe. When all the flowers have been removed, add the sugar
to the saucepan and stir until dissolved. Leave to simmer for 10–15
minutes, until slightly syrupy.
4. Leave to cool, then bottle up and keep in the refrigerator for up to 2
weeks.
Hibiscus Compote
This compote retains all the antioxidants and vitamin C of the
hibiscus, and is delicious spooned over pancakes or Amaranth and
Coconut Porridge.
MAKES 400 G (14 OZ)/SERVES 6

50 g (2 oz) dried hibiscus flowers

500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) water
1 cinnamon stick
5 g (⅛ oz) fresh ginger root, peeled and thinly sliced
200 g (7 oz/1 cup) jam sugar
50 ml (1¾ fl oz/3 tablespoons) orange juice

1. Place the water, cinnamon and ginger in a medium-sized saucepan over a

high heat and bring to the boil.
2. Meanwhile, carefully wash the hibiscus flowers under running water to
remove any sand, stones or dirt stuck between the petals. Drain well.
3. Add the washed dried flowers to the pan, along with the sugar. Stir well
for 5 minutes to help dissolve the sugar and release maximum flavour
and colour into the water.
4. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for about 30 minutes, until the
flowers become glassy and the sauce is syrupy. Add the orange juice at
the end.
5. Transfer to a bowl and serve warm or at room temperature. This compote
will keep in the refrigerator for a few weeks.
Corn Masa for Tortillas
Nixtamalisation is an ancient cooking technique developed by
Mesoamerican cultures over 3,000 years ago. This process involves
the dry corn being soaked and cooked in an alkaline solution,
making it more digestible and nutritious while removing impurities.
It is then ground, traditionally in molinos (mills) all over Mexico.
This technique produces the perfect dough consistency, malleable
enough to be pressed and turned into a tortilla, one of the most
common uses of this dough (although it is also the base for all
antojitos Mexicanos, including sopes, huaraches, gorditas, etc.).
This fresh dough is what you will see in Mexican markets next to
the tortilla presses or traditional tortillerias.
Corn masa harina is made from dried corn that has been
nixtamalised and then dehydrated. By simply adding water, we can
make the masa dough and turn it into tortillas.
Mexico’s diversity has been key in developing over 100 varieties
of heirloom and indigenous corn that are delicious, nutritious and
endemic to specific regions. White and yellow corn are the most
commonly found across the country, but my favourite is blue corn.
I remember having the option to choose between yellow and blue
corn when I was a child in Mexico City while ordering antojitos
from my local street stand: I always chose blue corn quesadilla,
fresh from the comal.
To make tortillas, you need a tortilla press, a tool that is easily
available online. Making and cooking tortillas requires practice.
You need to understand the consistency of the dough. If it’s too dry,
it will produce a dry tortilla; if it’s too wet, it will fall apart.
Smaller tortillas are used for tacos, large ones for enchiladas and
quesadillas. Extra-large ones, measuring 60 cm (24 in) are used for
a relatively new antojito made in Mexico City called machetes,
which are essentially very long quesadillas filled with the stew –
guisado – of your choice.
The second important tool you will need is what we call the
comal. The best ones are made of clay, but a cast-iron pan or a
heavy non-stick frying pan (skillet) will do the trick. The perfect
tortilla is cooked on a high enough heat to allow it to puff up
slightly with just a few little brown spots.

250 g (9 oz/2¼ cups) corn masaharina (white or blue)

about 300 ml (10 fl oz/1¼ cups) lukewarm water
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1. Place the masa harina in a large bowl.

2. In a jug (pitcher), combine the lukewarm water and salt and stir until the
salt is completely dissolved. Add the vegetable oil and mix.
3. Make a well in the centre of the harina and start adding the water in
stages. Add some of the water, then start mixing with your hand.
Continue mixing as you add more water, until all the harina has been
incorporated and a dough forms. Take your time to mix, slowly adding
the water and familiarising yourself with the dough’s consistency. It
should have a smooth consistency with no lumps, and it should not stick
to your hand. It should feel like playdough. If the dough becomes too
wet, add more dry masa harina. If the dough is too dry and crumbly, add
a little more water. Taste to check the seasoning and adjust accordingly if
a bit more salt is needed.
4. Wrap the dough in cling film (plastic wrap) or a damp tea towel and
allow to rest for 10 minutes before using.

MAKES ABOUT 15 TORTILLAS FOR TACOS

1 quantity of masa for tortillas

To make tortillas

1. Heat a comal or non-stick frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat.

2. Take 30 g (1 oz) dough from the masa. Roll it into a ball in your hand
until smooth, then place inside the tortilla press between the two sheets of
plastic. Close the press and apply pressure. You should get a 10-cm (4-in)
disc. We call that a tortilla taquera, which is the norm for Mexico City
street food.
3. Place the disc of dough on the comal or frying pan and cook for about 1
minute or until the edges start to dry. Flip it and leave for a couple of
minutes, until tiny specks appear on the surface and puff up slightly. The
first tortilla will help you test the heat of your pan. Adjust accordingly.
Once cooked, place your tortillas inside a folded tea towel to keep warm
and continue with the remaining dough.
4. You can make bigger tortillas, of course, by using more dough, with 15-
cm (6-in) corn tortillas being what we normally find sold by the kilo in
tortillerias. This is the most traditional tortilla size, and they are served
for lunch or dinner with our traditional guisados.

MAKES ABOUT 30 SOPES

1 quantity of masa for tortillas

To make sopes

Use 20 g (¾ oz) balls of masa and roll them in your hand until
smooth. Using a tortilla press, flatten each one into an 8 cm (3¼ in)
disc about 0.5 cm (¼ in) thick. Cook on the heated comal or frying
pan (skillet) for about a minute on each side. They should be
slightly undercooked. Remove from the pan and, while they are
still warm, pinch the sides between your thumb and index finger to
form little pies with raised edges.
TIP:To reheat shop-bought tortillas, apply a light coating of oil onto
each side of a tortilla and pan-fry 30 seconds on each side. Fat
always helps and improves everything, and tortillas are no
exception. It also enhances the corn flavour by caramelising the
surface. Taqueros dip their tortillas in oil, melted fat or chorizo oil
from the plancha before reheating. Wrap in a folded kitchen towel
and serve straight away.
Corn Masa for Savoury Tamales
My earliest memory of tamales is when I was in kindergarten and
my mum would get tamales for lunch from the lady around the
corner on the way to school. I used to get really disappointed when
the lady wasn’t there as that meant my school lunch would be
incomplete. For us Mexicans, tamales are not just street food: they
are part of our heritage and strongly connected to family
celebrations like birthdays, in addition to national celebrations like
Día de la Candelaria.
I remember the preparations for these celebrations: my
grandmother, abuela Carmela, standing next to the table in the
kitchen all day long, filling and folding tamales traditionally in
corn husks, with the irresistible smells of corn masa and mole in
the air. My grandma’s best tamales were filled with chicken and
mole, but wrapped in chard leaves instead of corn husks. The chard
leaves and the filling cooked at the same time, so the tamales was
ready to eat as soon as it comes out of the steamer, and you didn’t
need to let it sit as you would for a corn husk tamales.
Tamales are usually filled with pork and chicken, but vegetable
fillings like poblano rajas, squash or black beans are also used. A
special mention must go to the sweet tamales found in Mexico
City, with the strawberry and pineapple ones being the most
popular. I hope you enjoy my recipe for Hibiscus Tamales and
perfect the technique as you enjoy sweet and savoury fillings.
As with tacos, an essential part of savoury tamales is the salsa or
adobo: traditionally, salsa verde for pork, and mole for chicken. I
believe these are Chilangos’ favourite tamales.
MAKES 12
325 g (11½ oz/3 cups) corn masaharina
1 teaspoon baking powder
about 450 ml (15 fl oz/1¾ cups) lukewarm water
8 g (⅓ oz) salt
190 g (6¾ oz) goose fat or lard, melted and lukewarm

1. Place the masa harina in a large bowl. Add the baking powder and whisk
until well blended.
2. Combine the lukewarm water and salt in a jug (pitcher) and stir until the
salt is completely dissolved.
3. Make a well in the centre of the harina. Start by adding the fat, then
begin mixing with your hand, slowly adding the water as you do so.
Continue to mix until a dough forms with a smooth consistency and no
lumps. It should be soft and slightly sticky. Work this dough well, for at
least 7 minutes, until it becomes light and very malleable. You can use a
stand mixer for this or ideally a thermal mixer. Taste to check seasoning
and adjust accordingly.
4. Wrap in cling film (plastic wrap) or a damp kitchen towel and allow to
rest for 10 minutes before using.

MAKES 12

12 large dried corn husks (see Tip)

820 g (1 lb 12 oz) masa for tamales
360 g (12¾ oz) cooked chicken, pork or stewed meat
360 ml (12 fl oz/scant 1½ cups) Salsa Verde, Salsa Roja or mole of your
choice

To make tamales

1. Place the corn husks in a large saucepan of simmering water and leave to
soften for 30 minutes.
2. Fill the bottom of a steamer with water to a depth of 5 cm (2 in) and
bring to the boil.
3. To make a tamale, place 65 g (2¼ oz) masa in the centre of one of the
softened corn husks. Spread out the masa and place 30 g (1 oz) meat in
the centre, then spoon 2 tablespoons of your chosen sauce over the meat.
Fold the edges of the masa over the filling to form a tube. Tuck both ends
of the tube in towards the centre and secure with a strand of husk or a
piece of string. If the corn husk is not long enough for this, tie each end
like a Christmas cracker. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make
12 tamales.
4. Cook the tamales in the steamer for 25 minutes, then turn off the heat and
leave in the steamer for another 25 minutes. Unfold and serve the tamales
in their husks, but do not eat the husks – just use them as plates, then
discard.

If your corn husks aren’t big enough, you can use two
TIP:
overlapping husks for each tamale.
Wheat Tortillas
Wheat is not indigenous to Mexico. It was introduced through
colonisation, but is now widely grown and used for tortillas,
empanadas, teleras, bolillos, buñuelos and pastries. Corn tortillas
need to be pressed, because of their lack of gluten, but wheat
tortillas are rolled. They are usually made with lard, but I find that
goose fat, which melts at a higher temperature than lard, gives the
tortillas a smoother texture and a better flavour. There is a knack to
rolling a tortilla. It is important to flip it over after each roll so that
it is stretched on both sides. Cook them as soon as they are rolled,
as they will dry out quickly and start to crack.
I have fond memories of visiting my Abuela Josefina when I was
a child in Mexico City. She would cook freshly made wholewheat
tortillas for breakfast with huevos a la Mexicana early on Saturday
mornings for my father, my cousin Armando and me. Exciting for a
tragón (eater).
MAKES 6 TORTILLAS

420 g (14¾ oz/scant 3¾ cups) plain (all purpose) flour, plus extra for
rolling
⅛ teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
70 g (2½ oz) goose fat, melted
about 200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) warm water

1. Place the flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl. Whisk until well
blended.
2. Make a well in the centre of the flour. Add the fat and begin mixing with
your hand, slowly adding the water a little at a time. Continue to mix
 until a soft dough forms. Set aside for 5 minutes to allow the flour to
absorb the liquids.
3. After resting the dough, knead it for 10 minutes until stretchy and
smooth. This step is important as it will enable you to roll the dough
thinly. Wrap in cling film (plastic wrap) and set aside for 1 hour.
4. Separate the dough into 6 pieces. Roll each one into a ball and set aside,
covered. Lightly dust the kitchen counter with flour. Flatten each ball into
a disc, then roll it out until very thin. Start rolling from the centre, away
from you first, then towards you. Lift and flip over, giving the dough a
quarter turn, then roll again. Dust with more flour if needed. Continue
rolling and flipping until you have a thin disc about 30 cm (12 in) in
diameter.
5. Heat a large frying pan (skillet) over a medium–high heat. Add the first
tortilla to the pan and cook for about 1½ minutes. You will see little
bubbles appear around the edges, then in the centre. Turn and cook on the
other side for about another minute. The tortilla should be pliable and
soft. If it feels stiff, it is overcooked. Wrap in a kitchen towel to keep
warm, and repeat with the remaining tortillas.
Telera Bread
These are the traditional buns for tortas, the famous Mexican hot or
cold sandwiches. Often baked in panaderías early in the morning,
their soft texture makes it easy to bite through the generous filling
of a torta or a pambazo. When rolling the telera, make sure you are
stretching the dough well. The stretch and the grooves of the
parallel lines will ensure a flat bun rather than a puffed-up roll.
There is one torteria in Mexico City that has been my family’s
favourite for years: El Rey del Pavo in the historic centre of the
city. These guys have been selling tortas for over 110 years, so they
must know something about this iconic Mexican bread.
MAKES ABOUT 10 ROLLS

500 g (1 lb 2 oz/3½ cups) bread flour

30 g (1 oz/2½ tablespoons) sugar
2 teaspoons active yeast
40 ml (1¼ fl oz/3 tablespoons) milk, at room temperature
250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) warm water
25 ml (1 oz/2½ tablespoons) olive oil
1 teaspoon salt

1. In a large bowl, mix together the bread flour, sugar and yeast until well
blended.
2. In a jug (pitcher), combine the milk, water and olive oil. Stir the liquid
into the flour mixture, mixing with your hand until the dough forms a
ball. Leave to sit for 5 minutes, covered, to let the flour absorb all the
liquid. Add the salt, then knead for 10 minutes, until the dough is soft and
elastic. If you are using a mixer with a dough attachment, mix on low
speed for 6 minutes.
3. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with cling film (plastic
wrap) and leave to rest until doubled in size. This should take 1–2 hours,
depending on the temperature of the room.
4. Divide the dough into 10 equal pieces (about 75 g/2½ oz each). Press
each piece of dough with the palm of your hand and gather the edges
towards the centre to form a small ball. Turn the ball around and move it
inside your hand in a circular motion while applying a bit of pressure.
Place the rolled-up balls, round side-up, on a baking tray (pan) lined with
baking parchment. Cover and leave for 15 minutes.
5. To form the telera breads, flatten each ball with the palm of your hand,
then use a rolling pin, applying light pressure, to roll into a 12-cm (4¾-
in) long oval shape. Rotate the dough so that it is landscape to you. Press
the thicker end of a chopstick, or a thin spatula handle, lengthways along
the dough, about a third of the way down. Press it hard enough to mark a
line. Mark a second line, parallel to the first one, about two-thirds of the
way down. You will have 2 lines running down the length of the oval
shape.
6. Return the rolls to the lined tray, cover and leave to proof for about 40
minutes, until they double in size.
7. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/375°F/gas mark 5.
Bake the telera buns for 15–20 minutes, until golden and puffed.
Arroz a la Mexicana
In Mexican cooking, the term a la Mexicana refers to a dish with
the colours of Mexican flag: the primary colours being green and
red. Arroz a la Mexicana is an iconic dish that is on the table at
every meal: colourful, fragrant red rice, with chopped carrots and
peas traditionally mixed in or just decorated on top. I like this rice
with sweetcorn kernels in addition to peas and carrots, and
sometimes even potatoes are added.
SERVES 4

250 g (9 oz/1¼ cups) basmati rice

4 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
250 g (9 oz) CaldillodeJitomate
½ teaspoon salt
about 250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) Vegetable Stock
60 g (2 oz) carrot, diced and blanched
60 g (2 oz) peas, blanched
60 g (2 oz) sweetcorn kernels, blanched

1. Rinse the rice several times until the water runs clear. Drain well and set
aside.
2. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a low heat, then add the garlic and
fry for 1 minute, or until lightly coloured, being careful that it does not
burn or turn too dark. Add the rice and fry for a couple of minutes until
slightly translucent, stirring all the time. You want all the grains to be
coated with oil.
3. Add the Caldillo de Jitomate and bring the mixture to the boil. Add the
salt and 200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) of the vegetable stock. Simmer for
about 20 minutes, covered, checking occasionally. If it looks like it needs
 more stock, add a little more. Five minutes before the end of the cooking
time, add the vegetables.
4. When all the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is cooked, turn off the
heat and leave, covered, for 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork and serve.
Totopos
Totopos are usually made from fried tortillas, but I prefer to bake
them for a healthier alternative. You can use the recipe for tortillas
or use good-quality store-bought tortillas. Serve the totopos with
your favourite salsa or dipped in Queso Fundido, or as chilaquiles,
tossed in your choice of salsa verde, salsa roja or even mole.
MAKES ABOUT 300 G (10 OZ)

16 tortillas (12 cm/4½ in or 15 cm /6 in in diameter)

2–3 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil
fine sea salt

1. Preheat the oven to 170°C/150°C fan/340°F/gas mark 3½ and line a

baking tray (pan) with baking parchment.
2. Lightly brush the tortillas with the oil and sprinkle them with sea salt.
Cut each one into quarters using a sharp knife and spread out the pieces
on the prepared baking tray.
3. Bake for 20–25 minutes, turning half way through. Turn off the oven,
leaving the door slightly ajar to let the steam escape. Leave the totopos to
cool and crisp up in the oven for 30 minutes.
Crema
As a child, one of my fondest memories of visiting tianguis (what
we would now call a farmers’ market) with my mum or grandma is
getting a tostada as a reward once all the shopping was done, with a
smear of cream and a sprinkle of queso fresco. Mexican crema is
very lightly sour. This recipe is easy to make and is the closest
thing to the authentic taste. It’s perfect for adding to tacos or
tostadas, or you can simply cook with it.
MAKES 600 G (1 LB 5 OZ)

500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) double (heavy) cream

125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) buttermilk

1. Place the cream and buttermilk in a non-reactive bowl and mix until well
blended. Place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and stir
until the mixture reaches about 37°C (98°F), the same temperature as
your body.
2. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and leave at room temperature
overnight. The mixture will have thickened and acquired a very light sour
taste. It will keep well in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Queso Fresco
Queso fresco is a crumbly white cheese with a mild flavour. It
softens the heat of chillies or salsas and adds melt-in-the-mouth
creaminess. We use it sprinkled on many dishes, and it is a key
ingredient for many antojitos Mexicanos, like sopes, huaraches,
flautas, tostadas, etc. When making queso fresco, all your utensils
and bowls need to be scrupulously cleaned and rinsed with boiling
water. You don’t want the wrong bacteria to spoil your cheese.
Wrapping the queso fresco in dried avocado leaves gives it a
wonderfully subtle aniseed aroma and flavour.
This recipe was originally shared with me by Kristen Schnepp,
who ran a very successful dairy business under the arches in
Peckham, London, for several years, selling a selection of
Chihuahua, Oaxaca and, of course, fresco cheeses.
MAKES ABOUT 350 G (12 OZ)

2 litres (70 fl oz/8 cups) unhomogenised full-fat milk

4 tablespoons lime juice
¼ teaspoon vegetarian rennet
½ teaspoon non-iodised salt flakes
8 dried avocado leaves, softened in warm water for 10 minutes

1. Pour half the milk into a large bowl. Add the lime juice and stir, then
leave to curdle for 15 minutes.
2. Fill a medium-sized saucepan with water and bring to the boil, then lower
the heat to a gentle simmer. Remove ½ teaspoon of the boiled water and
set it aside in a small cup to cool.
3. In a large heatproof bowl, combine the curdled milk with the rest of the
milk. Set the bowl on top of the pan of simmering water to create a bain-
marie. The bottom of the bowl should not touch the water.
4. Gently heat the milk mixture until it reaches 40°C (104°F) on a digital
thermometer (this should take 20–25 minutes), then remove the bowl
from the heat.
5. Stir the rennet into the teaspoon of cooled boiled water, then pour this
mixture into the warm milk. Gently stir for 20 seconds to incorporate the
rennet. The mixture will curdle. Cover the bowl with cling film (plastic
wrap) and leave for 1 hour to set.
6. After an hour, bring the pan of water back to a simmer. Remove the cling
film from the bowl and place it back on top of the simmering water.
Check the temperature every 3 minutes. When it reaches 40°C (104°F),
which should only take about 10 minutes, keep it at that temperature for
15 minutes, removing the pan from the heat if it gets too hot. The heat
will firm up the curds.
7. Ladle the curds into a muslin cloth set over a sieve (fine mesh strainer).
Twist and gently squeeze, then gather together the ends of the muslin, tie
in a knot and hang from the tap to drain. Leave hanging for 45 minutes.
8. When ready, place the muslin bundle in a bowl. Open the muslin and mix
the salt into the curds. The salt will draw more moisture out of the
cheese. Re-tie the bundle and hang the cheese for another 30 minutes.
9. Your queso fresco is now ready. Sandwich it between two layers of
avocado leaves and wrap in cling film. It will keep refrigerated for 1
week. After this time, it will still be good, but will taste stronger.
Black Beans with Avocado Leaves
Beans and Arroz a la Mexicana are the classic accompaniments to
the majority of guisados served in Mexican households. The secret
to cooking beans is to cook them at a rolling boil for the first 10
minutes to remove any impurities that rise to the surface, then a
bare simmer for at least 2 hours. I use dried avocado leaves: like
kombu, they help make the beans easier to digest. The leaves can
be toasted for a few seconds on each side to enhance their aniseed
flavour. A blended version of these black beans can be turned into
Avocado Black Bean Refritos.
MAKES 1.8 KG (3 LB 15 OZ)

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) dried black beans

2.2 litres (74 fl oz/8¾ cups) water
6–8 dried avocado leaves, depending on the size
1 onion, quartered
4 garlic cloves, peeled
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
10 g (½ oz/2 teaspoons) fine sea salt

1. Soak the black beans in water overnight. The next morning, wash and
drain them twice.
2. To cook the beans, place them in a large cooking pot or saucepan. Cover
with the 2.5 litres (85 fl oz/10 cups) cold water and bring to the boil. Boil
for 10 minutes, removing the white foam that forms on the surface.
3. Meanwhile, dry-toast the avocado leaves in a frying pan (skillet) over a
medium heat for 10 seconds on each side.
4. In a food processor, blend together the onion quarters, garlic cloves and
oil. Add this mixture to the beans, along with the avocado leaves. Reduce
the heat to a bare simmer and cook for at least 2 hours – but ideally
 longer – until the beans are soft and the liquid becomes thick. Stir the
beans often so they don’t catch at the bottom of the pot. If the beans
become dry, add extra water during the cooking process and adjust the
seasoning accordingly. Add the fine sea salt at the end and taste to check
seasoning and balance.
5. Remove the avocado leaves and leave to cool.
Pinto Beans
About 70 different types of bean are grown in Mexico. Depending
on the region, the altitude or the minerals in the soil, the beans
acquire different speckles and deeper, richer colours. Black beans
and pinto beans remain the most commonly exported. Pinto beans,
or frijol pinto, meaning ‘speckled beans’ are used for refried beans
because of their creamy texture. Mexicans cook their beans in a
pressure cooker, which reduces the cooking time from about 2–3
hours to just 30 minutes.
MAKES 1.8 KG (3 LB 15 OZ)

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) pinto beans

2.5 litres (85 fl oz/10 cups) water
1 onion, quartered
4 garlic cloves, peeled
2 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil
6 large bay leaves
10 g (¼ oz/2 teaspoons) fine sea salt

1. Soak the beans in a large bowl of water overnight. The next morning,
wash and drain them twice.
2. Place the drained beans in a large cooking pot. Cover with the 2.5 litres
(85 fl oz/10 cups) cold water, then place over a high heat and bring to the
boil. Boil for 10 minutes, skimming off any white foam that forms on the
surface.
3. Meanwhile, place the onion quarters, garlic cloves and oil in a food
processor and blend until smooth. Add the mixture to the beans, along
with the bay leaves. Reduce the heat to a bare simmer and cook for at
least 2 hours – but ideally longer – until the beans are soft and the liquid
becomes thick. Pinto beans absorb more water than black beans, so add a
 bit more water during cooking if needed. Stir often, making sure nothing
catches at the bottom of the pan. Add the salt at the end and taste to
check the seasoning. Leave to cool, and remove the bay leaves.
4. The beans will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 week and in the freezer
for 6 months.

NOTE: The recipe as it is works well for soupy Pinto Beans freshly
cooked but they can also be reduced and refried with Mojo de Ajo
for an alternative and vegetarian take on refried beans, and topped
with fresh Pico de Gallo and Queso Fresco as a serving suggestion.
Refried Beans
One of my earliest memories of eating delicious refried beans was
in the state of Puebla, near Atlixco. I learned that the secret to
proper refrying was good-quality fat (normally lard) with an
optional touch of chilli – not for spiciness, but to add a delicate
flavour and enhance the taste. Remember, I was a serious eater
from the age of five!
Refried beans taste much better if they are freshly made, so keep
a regular supply of cooked pinto beans and refry them as you need
them.
MAKES 800 G (1 LB 12 OZ)/SERVES 4

½ quantity Pinto Beans

25 g (1 oz) goose fat
1 teaspoon Guajillo Adobo
¼ teaspoon sea salt

1. Place half of the beans and some of their juices in a food processor.
Blend until smooth, adding more cooking juices if needed, until the
mixture has the consistency of a loose paste.
2. Place a frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat and add the goose fat.
Once it’s hot, add the guajillo adobo and mix well for a few seconds. Stir
in the bean paste, along with the rest of the pinto beans, and fry for about
10 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. I like my refried
beans with some texture, which is why I leave some of the beans whole.
The constant stirring mashes them as they reduce, and they absorb the
flavour from the guajillo and goose fat.
3. Add the salt and enjoy straight away, topped with some crumbled Queso
Fresco and served with Totopos. Simplicity at its best.
Avocado Black Bean Refritos
I love to lightly fry black beans in a little Mojo de Ajo, adding
Chipotle en Adobo purée. This enhances the flavour and adds an
extra layer of smokiness and spice. You can use these black beans
as a dip, a topping for tostadas or in the Molletes with Pico de
Gallo.
MAKES 900 G (2 LB)

½ quantity Black Beans with Avocado Leaves

30 g (1 oz) MojodeAjo
20 g (¾ oz) Chipotle enAdobo Purée
¼ teaspoon sea salt

1. Place the beans and some of their juices in a food processor. Blend until
smooth, adding some more cooking juices if needed. You want the
consistency to be that of a loose paste.
2. Heat the Mojo de Ajo in a frying pan (skillet) until hot. Add the bean
paste and fry for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the chipotle paste
and mix well, then season.
3. Use straight away or leave to cool. It will keep in the refrigerator for up
to 5 days.
Chicken Stock
MAKES 1.7 LITRES (60 FL OZ/6¾ CUPS)

1 chicken
2.5 litres (85 fl oz/10 cups) cold water
2 onions, halved
1 head of garlic, skin on, halved
3-cm (1¼-in) piece of fresh ginger root, peeled and sliced
200 g (7 oz) carrots, scrubbed and roughly chopped
3 bay leaves
3 sprigs of thyme
15 g (½ oz) coriander (cilantro)
¾ teaspoon salt

1. Place the chicken in a pot big enough to fit it snugly and cover with the
water. Place over a low to medium heat and slowly bring to a simmer,
removing any white foam as it rises to the surface.
2. Add the rest of the ingredients and simmer gently for 1 hour, turning the
chicken over half way through. Remove the chicken from the stock and
set aside, covered, to cool (see Tip).
3. Increase the heat to high for 20–30 minutes to reduce the stock and
concentrate the flavours. Strain and set aside until ready to use. The stock
will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 days, or in the freezer for up to 6
months.

TIP:Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, shred the meat off
the bone. You can use it in a recipe straight away, or it will keep in
the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Vegetable Stock
MAKES 800 ML (28 FL OZ/3¼ CUPS)

2 onions, halved
1 head of garlic, skin on, halved
3-cm (1¼-in) piece of fresh ginger root, peeled and sliced
200 g (7 oz) carrots, scrubbed and roughly chopped
3 bay leaves
3 sprigs of thyme
15 g (½ oz) coriander (cilantro)
½ teaspoon salt
1.5 litres (53 fl oz/6 cups) water

1. Place all the ingredients in a 2-litre (70-fl oz) pot and place over a
medium to high heat. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to medium to
low and simmer for 45 minutes.
2. Strain the stock and set aside until ready to use. It will keep in the
refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 6 months.
Smoked Ham Hock
I prefer the taste of smoked ham in my recipes, but if you don’t,
you can just use an unsmoked ham hock. If that’s the case, you
should also use regular garlic cloves rather than smoked.
MAKES 400 G (14 OZ)

1 x 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) smoked ham hock

½ onion
3 smoked garlic cloves
5 morita chillies
3 bay leaves

1. Place the ham hock in a large bowl or pot of water and leave to soak for
at least 3 hours. You should change the water twice during this soaking
time.
2. Remove the ham from its soaking water, then rinse under the tap and
place in a large pot. Cover with cold water, making sure the hock is
completely submerged. Place the pot over a high heat and bring to the
boil, removing any froth that forms on the surface.
3. Reduce the heat to medium low, add the rest of the ingredients and
simmer very gently for about 2 hours, until the meat is tender and
detaches easily from the bones.
4. Take off the heat and leave the ham to cool in its cooking liquid. Once it
is cool enough to handle, but still warm, remove it from the pot. Remove
the skin and fat and shred the meat off the bone. If you like, you can use
it straight away, but if you want to store it, place it in an airtight container
with a bit of the stock to keep it moist. Store in the refrigerator for up to 1
week, or freeze for up to 6 months.
hillies are one of the fundamental pillars of Mexican food. They are
there to accentuate the flavours of a dish. They should not

C overpower the other individual elements, whether those are

herbs, spices vegetables or a wonderful piece of meat or
seafood. These salsas, rubs and marinades use some of my
favourite chillies. I have used them in a variety of ways and have
combined them with a whole host of ingredients I love that are
native to England. These include jalapeño mayonnaise for crab
tostadas made with freshly caught crab in Cornwall and the
Barbacoa Adobo for cooking venison I source from the wonderful
family-run West Country farm, whose produce is among my
favourite in the UK. These salsas are used in the recipes throughout
this book, but I encourage you to use them with a whole array of
meats, fish and vegetables. Whether you drizzle Salsa Macha over
your eggs on toast or add Beetroot and Pasilla Mixe Ketchup to a
homemade burger, these flavours will bring a taste of Mexico to
any dish.
Salsa Roja Cruda, Salsa Roja Cocida
This is a great example of the infinite variety of salsas in Mexican
cooking. Different flavours and textures can be achieved from one
basic salsa recipe. Crudo or cruda means something that has not
been cooked, and it is also slang for being hungover: ‘Estoy bien
crudo’ means ‘I’m extremely hungover’.
Salsa roja cruda pairs raw tomatoes with other raw ingredients
like garlic, onion, chilli and fresh herbs. Only slightly spicy, salsa
cruda is essentially a liquid salad. It is usually served with fried
antojitos Mexicanos, such as tacos dorados, flautas or pescadillas.
Salsa roja cocida (meaning cooked) is traditionally prepared by
charring all the ingredients. The smokiness of red onion, garlic and
chilli roasted in a comal pairs perfectly with the charred tomato. I
have also included a quicker version of the salsa that is not charred.
Salsa de habanero de molcajete is a hotter version of salsa roja,
made with habanero chillies. You can use a food processor for the
recipes below for convenience, which I think works well for the
salsa cruda, but when the ingredients are roasted, I prefer crushing
them in a molcajete, the Mexican mortar. The molcajete and its
pestle, called the tejolote or, more commonly, mano, are carved
from the volcanic formation of basalt. The grain of this rock
produces a unique texture.
However you choose to prepare them, these salsas are delicious
with totopos or as an accompaniment for antojitos.
MAKES ABOUT 480 G (1 LB 1 OZ)

1 red onion, quartered

4 garlic cloves
1 serrano or jalapeño chilli
5 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
½ teaspoon salt
juice of ¼ lime
5 g (¼ oz) coriander (cilantro) leaves, chopped

For salsa roja cruda

Place all the ingredients except the lime and coriander in a blender
or food processor and blend until the mixture has the smooth
texture of a runny salsa. Add a little water if needed. For a chunkier
salsa, pulse three to four times instead of blending. Transfer to a
bowl and stir in the lime and coriander. Taste and adjust seasoning
if needed.

For salsa roja cocida

I like it best when all the ingredients are charred or roasted. Place
the tomatoes, onion, garlic and chilli in a in a comal or a non-stick
heavy frying pan over a medium heat and roast for 20 minutes until
charred and soft. Make sure they are fully cooked, but keep an eye
on them, as they might char at different speeds depending on their
size. Alternatively, you can roast the vegetables in an oven
preheated to 200°C/180°C fan/400°F/gas mark 6 for 30–40
minutes. They will not char as much, but they should still be
roasted and soft. Remove from the comal or oven and allow to
cool. Transfer all the ingredients to a molcajete (or food processor)
and crush (or process) until you achieve the desired runny texture
(adding water if needed). Transfer to a bowl and stir in the lime and
coriander. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

To turn salsa roja cruda into a quick salsa roja cocida

If your plan is to turn this salsa cruda into salsa roja cocina, I
would recommend adding the coriander at the very end when the
salsa is cooling – this will prevent it from cooking and turning
black. Heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a frying pan (skillet).
Pour in the salsa roja cruda and cook for a few minutes until the
colour changes to a deeper red. Don’t let it reduce too much. This
makes a great quick salsa for chilaquiles.

NOTE: If you purchase a brand new molcajete, it will need to be

cured to avoid any basalt grit in your salsas. The process is easy:
just grind a small handful of rice until it turns into a powder,
making sure you crush it all over the inside of the molcajete.
Repeat the process a few times until the mortar is smooth and any
cracks are filled. Over time, the garlic, chillies and spices you use it
to crush will also season the molcajete and therefore the food you
prepare in it.
Habanero and Pumpkin Seed Salsa Macha
Salsa macha is traditionally a sauce made with oil, dried chillies
and nuts (usually peanuts). Cooks in Mexico are inventive, so there
are plenty of variations, but all versions give importance to the
chilli and the varying textures and flavours of roasted nuts, seeds
and spices. Salsa macha can be used as a salad dressing, and is also
delicious drizzled on raw or grilled fish, meat or vegetables. I like
the flavour and the heat of dried habanero chillies in this spicy
version, which is also a base for my Sikil Pak Dip.
MAKES ABOUT 160 G (6 OZ)

40 g (1½ oz/¼ cup) pumpkin seeds

10 g (½ oz/1 tablespoon) sesame seeds
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon Mojo de Ajo
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon lime juice
2 tablespoons orange juice
6 dried habanero chillies, ground to a powder
60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) extra virgin olive oil

1. Dry toast the pumpkin seeds in a small frying pan (skillet) over a low-
medium heat for a couple of minutes until they start to pop and are
slightly toasted. Set aside to cool. Using the same pan, toast the sesame
seeds for a few minutes until golden, then set aside to cool.
2. In a bowl, mix together the balsamic vinegar, Mojo de Ajo, salt and lime
and orange juice until well blended. Gradually whisk in the oil, then
incorporate the pumpkin seeds, habanero chilli powder and sesame seeds.
3. The salsa will keep in a glass container in the refrigerator for a couple of
weeks. Eat at room temperature.
Salsa Roja de Molcajete
Dried or smoked chillies, like ancho or chipotle (and its variations,
like meco or morita), also work well in this sauce, as do guajillo
chillies. I encourage you to try all different kinds until you find
your favourite combination. If you are using dried chillies, toast
them in a comal or a non-stick heavy frying pan (skillet) until they
are soft and pliable. Press on the chillies with a spatula as they
cook and turn them often to distribute the heat. Be careful not to
burn them – this would give a bitter flavour to the salsa or adobo.
Place the toasted chillies in a bowl, cover with water, and leave to
soak for at least 1 hour to rehydrate properly and softened before
combining with the rest of the ingredients and turning into salsa.
MAKES ABOUT 350 G (12 OZ)

4 ripe plum tomatoes

1 red onion, quartered
4 garlic cloves
2–3 jalapeño chillies
½ teaspoon salt
5 g (¼ oz) coriander (cilantro) leaves, chopped
juice of ½ lime

1. Place the tomatoes, onion, garlic and chillies in a comal or a heavy non-
stick frying pan (skillet) over a medium to high heat and roast for 25–30
minutes until charred and soft. Alternatively, you can roast the vegetables
in an oven preheated to 200°C/180°C fan/400°F/gas mark 6 for 40
minutes. They will not char as much, but they should still be roasted and
soft.
2. Remove from the comal (or oven) and allow to cool. Once cooled, put all
these ingredients into your molcajete (or, alternatively, a food processor)
 and crush (or process), until you achieve a runny and smooth but still
chunky texture – you can add a bit of water if needed. Season with the
salt, add the coriander and lime juice and mix well with a spatula or
spoon.
3. Serve with Totopos or as an accompaniment for tacos.

Salsa de habanero de molcajete

To make salsa de habanero de molcajete, a hotter version of salsa
roja, substitute the jalapeño chillies for 1–2 fresh habanero chillies.
Homemade Chipotles en Adobo
Chipotle chillies are made from ripe red jalapeño chillies. They are
dried in the sun and lightly smoked. You can find different varieties
– here, I’m using morita chipotle chillies, a mildly smoked
chipotle, but I must admit that meco chillies are my favourite
because of the intensity of their smokiness. However, either one
will work well here. Piloncillo is essentially Mexican raw cane
sugar, but if you cannot find it, you can use brown sugar or
muscovado.
MAKES 865 G (1 LB 14½ OZ)

700 ml (24 fl oz/scant 3 cups) water

100 g (3½ oz) dried morita chipotle chillies
3 bay leaves
150 g (5 oz) Onion Sofrito
150 ml (5 fl oz/scant ⅔ cup) raw cider vinegar
4 smoked garlic cloves, peeled
4 black garlic cloves, peeled
70 g (2½ oz/⅓ cup) piloncillo or brown/muscovado sugar
15 g (½ oz/4 teaspoons) sea salt
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, plus 1 tablespoon extra if you are
making the purée

1. Bring the water to the boil in a medium-sized saucepan over a high heat.
Drop in the morita chillies and bay leaves, then reduce the heat to very
low and simmer for about 10 minutes until the chillies are soft and the
liquid has reduced by a third.
2. Add the Onion Sofrito, cider vinegar, smoked and black garlic, brown
sugar or piloncillo and sea salt, and continue to simmer for about 20
minutes until thickened and reduced. Stir the mixture often so that
nothing sticks to the bottom of the pan. The chillies, garlic and onions
 should be falling apart, melting into a fragrant and unctuous sauce.
Reduce the heat to low if needed. Taste, and adjust the seasoning by
adding a little more salt or sugar to balance the flavours.
3. Remove from the heat. Once the mixture has cooled, remove the bay
leaves and stir in the balsamic vinegar.

To make chipotle en adobo purée

Use a hand-held blender to blend half of the above mixture with an
additional 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar until smooth. This purée
is a must-have ingredient to add to everything from guisados
(stews) to quick salsas, or to smear on tortas. It will keep in the
refrigerator for up to 1 month.
Ancho Dry Rub
This is a grown-up version of a slightly sweet chilli powder called
miguelito. It is eaten as a candy, but also sprinkled over mango,
jicama, cucumber or popcorn by street vendors. A special treat,
especially after school! To make a powder for rubs or marinades,
dried chillies are toasted, then ground. You can use your molcajete
– or a coffee grinder, for a less authentic (although much quicker)
alternative!
I like using ancho chilli in this recipe, which is the dried version
of much loved poblano peppers (pictured). It adds the fruitiness and
the sweetness of a sundried tomato or raisin to this rub with a mild
spice note.
MAKES ABOUT 80 G (3 OZ)

30 g (1 oz) dried ancho chillies, trimmed

2 teaspoons fennel seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1½ teaspoons salt
1½ teaspoons soft brown sugar
juice of 1 orange (optional)

1. Toast the chillies in a comal or non-stick frying pan (skillet) over a

medium to high heat for a couple of minutes until soft and pliable. Be
careful not to burn them or they will become bitter. Set aside to cool.
Toast the fennel and coriander seeds in a small frying pan over a medium
heat for a couple of minutes, until fragrant, then leave to cool.
2. Place the toasted chillies, fennel and coriander seeds, cinnamon, salt and
sugar in a molcajete (or coffee grinder) and crush until finely ground.
Transfer the mixture to a small bowl. Taste and adjust seasoning.
3. To use this as a seasoning, simply sprinkle it on fruit or vegetables, such
as fresh pineapple, apples, cucumber or jicama. It’s also great on
popcorn.
4. To use it as a marinade or rub, add the orange juice and mix to create a
thick paste. Rub it on chicken, pork, portobello mushrooms or even
squash before roasting.
Barbacoa Adobo
Mexicans have made marinades into an art form. This barbacoa
adobo perfectly balances the smokiness of chipotle chillies with the
sweetness of ancho and the chocolate notes of pasilla mixe. It also
incorporates dried avocado leaves, which bring a wonderful
aniseed flavour. This marinade is used for the Lamb Shanks,
Barbacoa-style, but it can also be used for barbecued chicken or
vegetarian dishes, like the Smoky Cauliflower with Mole Blanco.
Please note that the dried chillies require a 12-hour soak before use.
MAKES 700 G (1 LB 9 OZ)

50 g (2 oz) morita chipotle chillies

2 ancho chillies
2 pasilla mixe chillies
500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) hot water
100 g (3½ oz) garlic cloves, peeled
2 teaspoons sea salt
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
20 g (¾ oz/1 tablespoon) dark agave syrup
10 dried avocado leaves
250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) grapeseed oil

1. Place all the dried chillies in a bowl and pour the hot water over the top.
Leave to soak for at least 12 hours. Soaking doesn’t just soften the
chillies; it also helps temper their heat. Once they are soft, drain the
chillies, reserving the soaking water. Remove and discard all stems.
2. Place the chillies in a blender or food processor, along with most of the
soaking water and the garlic. Blend until smooth, then add the salt,
balsamic vinegar, agave syrup and avocado leaves and blend again until
the leaves have disintegrated into the mixture. The marinade should be
 pourable but not runny. Add some more of the soaking water to adjust the
thickness if needed.
3. Running the blender or food processor at a low speed, slowly add the oil
and blend until emulsified.
4. Taste the marinade, being careful as it is very hot. This marinade should
be on the salty side, so adjust the seasoning accordingly. Once you are
satisfied, transfer the marinade to an airtight container. It is ready to use
straight away, and will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Salsa Verde Cruda and Avocado Salsa
One of my favourite salsas is salsa cruda. It is literally a liquid
salad made of raw ingredients – crudo being Spanish for ‘raw’. By
adding beautifully ripe avocadoes to this simple base, you get a
perfect smooth avocado salsa. You can serve it with totopos, of
course, but in my opinion this is a must for tacos dorados. When
turning the salsa cruda into an avocado salsa, I prefer to make it a
little spicier, as its creamy texture beautifully balances the spicy
notes of the fresh chillies and the herbal notes of the coriander. If
you want to add more chillies or herbs, please feel free to do so.
MAKES ABOUT 600 G (1 LB 5 OZ)

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) fresh tomatillos, husked and roughly chopped

80–110 g (3–3¾ oz) green serrano or jalapeño chillies, roughly chopped
8 spring onions (scallions), chopped
10 g (½ oz) peeled garlic
35 g (1¼ oz) coriander (cilantro)
50 ml (1¾ fl oz/3 tablespoons) lime juice
2½ teaspoons salt
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) water

TO MAKE IT INTO AVOCADO SALSA

2–3 avocados, peeled, stoned and chopped

an additional 10 g (½ oz) coriander (cilantro)

1. To make the salsa cruda, place the tomatillos, chillies, spring onions,
garlic, coriander, lime juice, salt and water in a blender and blend until
completely smooth. You now have salsa cruda.
2. To turn the salsa cruda into avocado salsa, add the flesh of 2 avocados to
the previous mixture, along with the extra coriander. Blend until smooth.
If you prefer a creamier texture, more like a thick dip, add the third
 avocado and blend until you obtain the desired texture. Taste for
seasoning and adjust if needed.

NOTE: This works well with the Lamb Shank Barbacoa or Ox

Tongue Tacos. They will keep in a glass container in the
refrigerator for 4–5 days.
Salsa Verde Cocida
This salsa uses the same ingredients as the Salsa Verde Cruda.
They are dry-roasted in a heavy cast-iron flat pan or a comal. You
can use a heavy-based frying pan (skillet). Once the ingredients are
all blackened and soft, they can be blended. You can use tinned
tomatillos for this salsa, but don’t roast them or they will turn into a
mush. To eliminate that slight metallic taste from the tinned
tomatillos, my secret is to add a little grated ginger and to intensely
roast the onion, garlic and chillies.
MAKES ABOUT 600 G (1 LB 5 OZ)

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) fresh tomatillos, husked, or use drained tinned

tomatillos if you can’t get fresh
80–110 g (3–3¾ oz) green serrano or jalapeño chillies, left whole
8 spring onions (scallions), left whole
10 g (½ oz) peeled garlic
35 g (1¼ oz) coriander (cilantro)
20 ml (1½ tablespoons) lime juice
2½ teaspoons salt

1. Place a large, heavy-based frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat and
add the fresh tomatillos (if using), along with the chillies, spring onions
and garlic. Dry-roast for 20–30 minutes until blackened and soft. Once
roasted, set aside for 10 minutes to cool.
2. Once cooled, place all the roasted vegetables in the blender, along with
the coriander, lime and salt. If you’re used tinned tomatillos instead of
fresh, add them to the blender now. Blend the salsa to your preferred
consistency – you can make it very smooth, or just pulse to keep some
texture.
3. It will keep in a glass container in the refrigerator for 4–5 days.
Guajillo Adobo
MAKES ABOUT 360 G (12¾ OZ)

120 g (4 oz) guajillo chillies, deseeded and stem removed

100 g (3½ oz) Cebolla Morada, plus 60 ml (2 fl oz/4 tablespoons) pickled
liquid
2 teaspoons salt
juice of 1 lime

The guajillo chilli is a long and thin medium-hot chilli, mainly used
dried. Once cooked in this vibrantly red adobo, it can be used cold
to add zing to salsas or warm to perk up the colour and flavour of
pan-fried prawns or a Pambazo.

1. Toast the chillies in a comal or a heavy non-stick frying pan (skillet) over
a medium heat until they are soft and pliable. Press down on the chillies
with a spatula as they cook, and turn them often to distribute the heat. Be
careful not to burn them – this would give a bitter flavour to the adobo.
Place the cooked chillies in a bowl and cover with 400 ml (13 fl oz/1½
cups) water. Leave to soak for at least 1 hour.
2. Place the soaked chillies in a blender with 100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup)
of their soaking liquid and the rest of the ingredients. Blend until very
smooth: the consistency should be slightly thick, but pourable. Pass
through a fine sieve (fine mesh strainer), then blend again until very
smooth. Taste to check the seasoning and adjust accordingly. This adobo
will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
Adobo Verde
This is a fresh and non-traditional herby dressing, which has tones
of lime and chillies, and can be used as a marinade or an adobo. It
goes very well with seabass: simply spread a few tablespoons of
the sauce between two fillets of seabass before baking.
Alternatively, try it drizzled over grilled prawns (shrimp) or grilled
vegetables, like courgettes (zucchini) or mushrooms.
MAKES ABOUT 600 G (1 LB 5 OZ)

3 green jalapeño chillies, trimmed, deseeded and very finely chopped

5 g (¼ oz) tarragon leaves, very finely chopped
30 g (1 oz) flat-leaf parsley, very finely chopped
5 spring onions (scallions), very finely chopped
30 g (1 oz) green olives, pitted and very finely chopped
2 teaspoons Mexican oregano
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) hemp oil
300 ml (10 fl oz/1¼ cups) sesame oil
2 tablespoons lime juice

1. Place the chillies, tarragon, parsley, spring onions and olives in a bowl.
Add the oregano, salt and pepper and stir to combine.

1. Gradually incorporate the two oils, whisking between each addition.

Finish the sauce by adding the lime juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Salsa de Árbol
The árbol chilli is a short, thin chilli cultivated in the central
provinces of Mexico. Its twig-like appearance is the origin of its
name, which means ‘tree like’. It is one of the hotter varieties of
chillies, and comes from the same family as cayenne pepper. You
will feel the strength of its heat when you toast it; make sure your
kitchen is well ventilated. When working with these strong and
spicy chillies, it’s always advisable to wear kitchen gloves to avoid
any issues after touching them. Just washing your hands won’t be
enough – I learned this the hard way.
This is a spicy sauce. Add just a touch to soft or crispy tacos,
like tacos dorados.
MAKES ABOUT 400 G (14 OZ)

15 g (½ oz) árbol chillies, stems removed

20 g (¾ oz) garlic, peeled
1 onion, roughly chopped
1 teaspoon salt
500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) water
60 g (2 oz) Mojo de Ajo
100 g (3½ oz) Guajillo Adobo

1. Toast the chillies in a comal or heavy non-stick frying pan (skillet) over a
medium heat for about 30 seconds until slightly darkened. Press down on
the chillies with a spatula as they cook, and turn them often, taking care
not to burn them.
2. Place the toasted chillies in a saucepan over a low heat with the garlic,
chopped onion and salt. Cover with the water and simmer for 10 minutes.
Leave to cool slightly, then transfer the contents of the saucepan to a
blender and blend until smooth.
3. Return the empty saucepan to the heat, and add the Mojo de Ajo. Cook
until it starts to sizzle, then add the blended mixture and cook for 5
minutes. Add the Guajillo Adobo and simmer for another 5 minutes. The
sauce is now ready. It will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Pineapple and Apricot Chamoy
This is an iconic chilli sauce, traditionally made with dried chillies,
salt, sugar and fresh apricots, which apparently has its roots in
Japan. It is a perfect balance of sweet, spicy and sour. If you’ve
been to Mexico, you will have noticed plastic bottles of chamoy on
every chicharrones cart or fruit stand. Sadly, commercially
produced chamoy is full of artificial colouring and flavours, so I
want to share a healthy alternative that can be enjoyed by everyone.
It is delicious drizzled on apples, pears, mangos or pineapple, or
served with carrot and cucumber sticks.
MAKES ABOUT 500 ML (17 FL OZ/2 CUPS)

about 150 ml (5 fl oz/scant ⅔ cup) Hibiscus Cordial

100 g (3½ oz) fresh pineapple, peeled and cut into chunks
1 teaspoon salt
1 piquín, dry habanero or árbol chilli, trimmed
40 g (1½ oz) dried apricots
30 g (1 oz) pitted dried prunes
juice of ½ orange
fresh fruit or crudités, to serve

1. Place the ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Pass through a
fine sieve (mesh strainer) and blend again, adding a bit of extra cordial if
needed. The chamoy should have the consistency of a runny ketchup.
2. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Transfer to a jar or bottle. It will
keep in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.

TIP: You can replace the prunes with raisins and additional apricots.
Salsa Pasilla Mixe
Pasilla mixe chillies, thin, long and reddish black, are the dried
version of the green chilaca chillies grown at high altitude in the
Sierra Mixe, north-east of the state of Oaxaca. The composition of
the soil and the location greatly influence the taste of these chillies.
The technique used to achieve their intense smokiness is a well-
guarded secret among the local communities. Pasilla mixe and
chipotle meco (from Puebla) are my two favourite chillies in
Mexican cooking. Use this salsa as a dip with totopos, in tamales
and in breakfast burritos. I genuinely love the smokiness and I hope
you do as well.
MAKES 660 G (1 LB 7 OZ)

60 g (2 oz) pasilla mixe chillies, trimmed and deseeded

1 cinnamon stick
500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) water
1 onion, quartered
10 garlic cloves, peeled
1½ teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons dark agave syrup
10 g (¼ oz) coriander (cilantro), finely chopped

1. Toast the chillies in a comal or a heavy non-stick frying pan (skillet) over
a medium heat until they are soft and pliable. Press down on the chillies
with a spatula as they cook, and turn them often to distribute the heat. Be
careful not to burn them – this would give a bitter flavour to the salsa.
Add the cinnamon stick to the pan and lightly toast to enhance the
flavour and aroma. Place the toasted chillies and cinnamon stick in a
bowl and cover with the water. Leave to soak for at least 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, place the onion and garlic cloves in a comal or a nonstick
heavy frying pan over a medium to high heat and roast for 10–15 minutes
 until charred and soft.
3. Drain the soaked chillies, reserving 150 ml (5 fl oz/scant ⅔ cup) of the
soaking liquid. Place the chillies in a blender, along with the roasted
onion and garlic. Add the salt, agave and reserved soaking liquid, plus
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) fresh water. Blend until smooth – the
consistency should be slightly thick and pourable. Pass through a fine
sieve (mesh strainer), then blend again until very smooth.
4. Add the coriander, then check the seasoning and adjust if needed. This
salsa will keep refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
Beetroot and Pasilla Mixe Ketchup
Mexico City offers fantastic hamburguesas al carbón. Our
proximity with the US might be part of what makes this fast food
so popular in practically every neighbourhood. Burger stands or
carts cooking al carbón (on charcoal) rather than on a plancha
(griddle) are my favourites. This ketchup is extremely easy to
prepare. If you can’t find pasilla mixe chillies, you can try it with
chipotle meco, chipotle morita or even ancho or mulato chillies.
I also like to serve it as an alternative to tomatillo ketchup with
my Duck Carnitas, as the smokiness of the beetroot and pasilla
mixe chillies makes a change from the sharpness and freshness of
tomatillo, jalapeno and mint.
MAKES ABOUT 700 G (1 LB 9 OZ)

1 pasilla mixe chilli

150 ml (5 fl oz/scant ⅔ cup) cider vinegar
200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) water
½ cinnamon stick
300 g (10 oz) raw beetroot (beets), peeled and cubed
2 apples, peeled, cored and quartered
60 g (2 oz/¼ cup) honey
40 g (1½ oz/3 tablespoons) caster (superfine) sugar
100 g (3½ oz) raisins
¾ teaspoon salt

1. Place the chilli, cider vinegar, water and cinnamon in a medium-sized

saucepan over a high heat. Bring to a boil, then add the beetroot cubes,
cover and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 35–45 minutes, or until the
beetroot is cooked and most of the liquid has been absorbed. Take off the
heat and allow to cool.
2. Transfer the cooked beetroot and cinnamon into a blender. Add the rest
of the ingredients and blend until smooth, then pass through a sieve (fine
mesh strainer).
3. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and simmer for 20 minutes until
slightly thickened. Once cool, It will keep in a glass container in the
refrigerator for a week.

NOTE: I make my favourite hamburguesa by mixing good-quality

beef mince (ground beef) with 1 tablespoon of this ketchup, along
with some chopped garlic, finely chopped parsley, grated
Parmesan, finely chopped Chiles en Escabeche, tomato purée
(paste), freshly crushed black pepper and a pinch of salt. Barbecue
these juicy patties and top with Chihuahua or mild Cheddar cheese
and more ketchup for the full experience. Serve with extra Chiles
en Escabeche, slices of tomato and onion, and a scoop of smashed
avocado. Mexican burger-umami at its best.
Xni’ Pek (Mayan-style Habanero Salsa)
This salsa’s name translates literally from the Mayan as ‘dog’s
runny nose’, based on the fact that this chunky Yucatecan salsa has
a real kick. I like to use four chillies and their seeds, but feel free to
use fewer chillies and deseed them. This makes the perfect
accompaniment for Pibil-style Pork Ribs or the classic recipe
Cochinita Pubil, a truly Yucatecan experience.
MAKES 400 G (14 OZ)

1 large red onion, finely chopped

2–4 habanero or Scotch bonnet chillies, finely chopped
50 g (2 oz) Cebolla Morada, plus 30 ml (2 tablespoons) of the pickling
juice
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) orange juice
¾ teaspoons sea salt
40 ml (1¼ fl oz/3 tablespoons) extra virgin olive oil
20 g (¾ oz) coriander (cilantro), chopped

1. Place the finely chopped red onion, chillies and Cebolla Morada in a
bowl and add the pickling juice, orange juice and salt. Mix well until the
salt has dissolved.
2. Whisk in the olive oil and leave the salsa to infuse for 10 minutes. Taste
to check seasoning and balance and adjust accordingly with more juice or
chillies if needed. This salsa should be spicy – very spicy! – but with a
fragrant and citrusy flavour. Add the coriander just before serving.
Sikil Pak (Habanero and Pumpkin Seed Chunky
Dip)
Sikil pak is a famous Yucatecan dip of Mayan origin. Traditionally
it contains charred tomato that is mashed and mixed with the other
ingredients. My version is made by blending one of my favourite
salsas, the Habanero and Pumpkin Seed Salsa Macha, with fresh
orange juice and roasted pumpkin seeds, but you can of course add
charred tomato, if you wish. I like to mix in extra freshly toasted
pumpkin seeds at the end for texture.
MAKES ABOUT 200 G (7 OZ)

50 g (2 oz) pumpkin seeds

120 g (4 oz) Habanero and Pumpkin Seed Salsa Macha
juice of 1 orange

1. Dry roast the pumpkin seeds in a non-stick frying pan (skillet) over a low
to medium heat for a couple of minutes, shaking the pan all the time.
When they are slightly toasted and a few start to pop, transfer them into a
bowl and set aside to cool.
2. Place half the pumpkin seeds in a molcajete or a small food processor.
Add the Habanero and Pumpkin Seed Salsa Macha. If you are using a
molcajete, start crushing and mixing, gradually adding the orange juice.
If you are using a small food processor, pulse a few times, adding the
orange juice between pulses, and stop when you obtain a chunky dip,
before it turns into a purée.
3. Just before serving, incorporate the rest of the pumpkin seeds into the
dip. The seeds will absorb all the liquids, and if it sits for too long, the
dip will lose its crunchiness, so do this right at the end.
4. Serve at once with some crudités or Totopos.
What do you have early in the morning in Mexico? Well that
depends on where you are going or where you are coming
from. When I was on the youth national rowing team I trained at the
Olympic rowing course, Cuemanco, built for the 1968 Olympics in
the city. My early mornings would always consist of a jugo verde
from Beto’s juice stand made with fresh cactus, pineapple, orange
juice and spirulina. The elixir would restore me after the intense and
arduous training session which began at 6am every morning. But
after a night out, you would find me with friends at a taco stand
enjoying barbacoa tacos and consommé – the broth the meat was
cooked in – with chilli, lime, coriander and onion. We were
convinced, as I still am to this day, that those tacos before heading
home would negate any possible hangover. Or at least make it less
intense!
Early morning in Mexico is the time of day when the city comes
to life: the street traders meticulously set up their stalls for the day
ahead, and the hum of traffic starts to fill the streets in a city
notorious for its gridlocked roads. People are busy heading across
the vast city in their cars or on buses that include old VW camper
vans called ‘combis’, while street vendors on bicycles blast out a
whole array of music to keep the Chilangos going. Like a giant
beast waking from its slumber, the city springs to life, and those
starting the day need sufficient sustenance: the working day can
often stretch late into the night, and the traffic means that commutes
can easily take several hours hours each morning. Vendors can be
see going from car to car in gridlocked traffic, offering snacks and
drinks to commuters, as well as hopping on and off buses selling
early morning drinks, fruit cocktails or jelly. Among the first stands
to set up in the morning are the fruit and juice stands. Mexico’s
year-round warm climate means it is blessed with some of the most
wonderful tropical fruits that are incredibly sweet and full of
flavour, including pineapples, papaya and mangos, as well as lesser-
known fruits like mamey, dragon fruit and prickly pears. These are
sold as fruit platters, in freshly pressed juices or smoothies and are a
must as part of any early morning in Mexico. This is just a stop-gap
before breakfast, which in Mexico is a big affair!
Hibiscus Infusion
Hibiscus juice is high in vitamins, making it a perfect way to start
the day and fight winter colds. The dried flowers will keep well in
the cupboard, and will therefore always be available. The hibiscus
syrup used for the Hibiscus Tamales is high in sugar. This is a
similar recipe, but instead of sugar, you can use agave syrup to
sweeten the drink to your liking.
MAKES 1 LITRE (34 FL OZ/4 CUPS)

70 g (2½ oz) hibiscus flowers

1 litre (34 fl oz/4 cups) water
dark agave syrup, to taste

1. Carefully wash the flowers under running water to remove any sand,
stones or dirt stuck between the petals.
2. In a medium-sized saucepan, bring the water to the boil. Add the flowers,
then stir constantly for about 10–15 minutes, until the flowers are soft but
still firm and have released all of their flavour and colour in the water.
3. Remove the flowers with a skimmer or slotted spoon and set aside to use
in a hibiscus compote or a savoury filling. When all the flowers have been
removed, add the dark agave to taste and stir until dissolved.
4. Leave to cool, then bottle up and keep in the refrigerator for up to 2
weeks.
Jugo Verde de Nopal
Nopales are the young pads of the nopal or prickly pear cactus. It is
very difficult to find them fresh outside of Mexico, but when I do, I
cook them in a copper pot – this is key to reducing the sliminess of
boiled cactus. You can enjoy them in salads however I enjoy the
most drinking it raw. They are widely used in Mexican cooking.
With its high content of fibre, protein, antioxidants, vitamins, and
minerals nopal is highly praised for its health benefits.
To peel the pads, hold them at the base and, using the back of a
knife, scrape off the spines and bristle on both sides. A fish scaler
also works well. Trim around the edges with a knife, and cut into
strips or squares.
SERVES 1

100 g (3½ oz) sliced fresh cactus paddle

120 g (4 oz) fresh pineapple, roughly chopped
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) orange juice
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) water
1 teaspoon honey
5 g (½ oz) flat-leaf parsley

1. Place all the ingredients in a blender and blend at high speed for a few
minutes to eliminate the sliminess of the cactus. This really is key,
otherwise the juice could turn very slimy. Taste and adjust the sweetness.
Serve at once – this juice is best if prepared at the last minute.
Rice Horchata
Queen of Mexican agua frescas, horchata is the ideal thirst
quencher on a hot summer day. It is simply made with rice that has
been soaked overnight and blended with water, cinnamon and
vanilla. I like it cold, of course, but I also enjoy it in my morning
coffee for a really comforting feel as a substitute for cow’s milk.
MAKES 1 LITRE (34 FL OZ/4 CUPS)

300 g (10 fl oz/1¼ cups) rice

4 tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1. Rinse the rice under running water until it runs clear. Place the rinsed rice
in a bowl and cover with hot water. Leave overnight.
2. The next day, drain the rice, then place half of it in a powerful blender,
along with half of the sugar, cinnamon and vanilla. Add 500 ml (17 fl oz/2
cups) water and blend until all the rice is processed and the liquid is
smooth. Transfer to a jug (pitcher) and repeat with the remaining rice,
sugar, cinnamon and vanilla and another 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) water.
Combine both batches and serve.
Avocado Shake
Puffed amaranth is quick and easy to make – it’s almost instant. I
always have a batch of puffed amaranth ready to use in my
cupboard. You will see that I often sprinkle it on salads and add it to
breakfast dishes. Make this avocado shake at the last minute or the
avocado will oxidise. It is nutritious and perfect to sustain you
throughout the morning.
SERVES 2

1 ripe avocado, peeled, stoned and roughly chopped

200 ml (7 fl oz/¾ cup) orange juice
200 ml (7 fl oz/¾ cup) apple juice
20 g (¾ oz) puffed amaranth
2 teaspoons dark agave syrup

1. Place all the ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Divide
between two glasses and serve straight away.
Spicy Chocolate de Agua
From pre-Hispanic times, chocolate drink was considered ‘God’s
drink’, and something that only be enjoyed by the elite few in
Mayan and Aztec cultures. Coming from the Nahuatl word xocolātl,
it literally means ‘bitter water’, as it was prepared with roasted
cacao and a few spices. Cacao is a super food – and a super plant –
that provides a lot of nutrients and has medicinal properties.
I use a high-quality cocoa powder in this recipe, as it is easier to
source, but traditionally we would use Mexican chocolate tablets,
which have a high cocoa content and are spiced with cinnamon and
sugar. What makes this hot chocolate special is its foamy top. In
Mexico we use a molinillo, a specially turned and carved tool
dedicated to creating that foam. You can also use a whisk – less
traditional, but effective.
In my opinion, the best hot chocolate comes from Cardenal
Restaurant in Mexico City, where it is prepared and foamed in front
of you. Accompanied by a concha, it is the beginning or end of a
lazy but successful breakfast for us Mexicans.
SERVES 2

500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) water

1 cinnamon stick
1 morita chipotle or ½ ancho or árbol chilli
40 g (1½ oz/scant ½ cup) organic high-quality cocoa powder (or chopped
Mexican chocolate tablets, if you can get them)
55 g (2 oz/¼ cup) brown sugar (not needed if you are using Mexican
chocolate tablets)

1. Place the water in a saucepan and add the cinnamon stick and chilli. Bring
to the boil and leave to simmer for 5 minutes until the water gets a slight
tint from the cinnamon stick. Reduce the heat to a bare simmer and add
 the cocoa powder and brown sugar or the chopped chocolate. Stir
regularly until the chocolate has melted.
2. Hold the molinillo between the palms of your hand and roll in a back and
forth motion between the palms of your hands to beat the hot chocolate
and create a foamy top. Alternatively, use a whisk.
3. Serve immediately.
Tepache
Tepache is like a Mexican pineapple kombucha. It is made from the
peel and flesh of a very ripe pineapple, fermented with brown sugar
and flavoured with spices. Like all fermented drinks, it is a natural
probiotic, and this is why I have included it as a healthy drink in the
breakfast section. Its flavour – a sort of yeasty cider – makes it a
tasty accompaniment to a meal and an interesting mixer for
cocktails. You will find a recipe using it in the Sundown Drinks
section.
MAKES ABOUT 1 LITRE (34 FL OZ/4 CUPS)

500 g (1 lb 2 oz/2½ cups) Demerara (dark brown) sugar

250 g (9 oz/1¼ cups) dark muscovado sugar or piloncillo
500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) boiling water
2 cinnamon sticks
1 teaspoon allspice berries
1 teaspoon cloves
1 small ancho chilli, stem removed, torn into pieces
½ teaspoon salt flakes
¼ teaspoon black peppercorns
1 star anise
5-cm (2-in) piece of fresh ginger root
1 very ripe medium-sized pineapple (ideally organic)
500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) cold water

1. In a large jug (pitcher), combine the sugars and boiling water and stir until
the sugars are dissolved. Add the cinnamon sticks, allspice berries, cloves,
chilli, salt, peppercorns, star anise and ginger and pour the mixture into a
2-litre (68-fl oz) glass jar.
2. Square off the base of the pineapple, then, holding it by the leaves, cut
straight down along the fibrous core. Discard the core, which would give
 the tepache a bitter taste. Cut the pineapple into chunks, peel and all, and
add to the glass jar. Top up with the cold water and swirl the contents to
mix together.
3. Cover the mouth of the jar with a couple of layers of muslin (cheesecloth).
The mixture will start to ferment after 48 hours. Skim the foam that has
formed on the top and leave to sit for another day. You can start using
your tepache after that time. Ideally, the jar should be kept at 25°C (77°F).
Café de Olla Syrup
This is the most iconic coffee alternative found in taquerias, fondas,
traditional cenadurías and markets in the capital. It takes its name
from the olla de barro (clay pot) in which it is made. It is typically
prepared by boiling water with coffee grains, orange peel, cinnamon
and piloncillo (raw sugar cane). I like preparing the syrup in
advance so it is ready when I want to add it to my morning coffee!
MAKES ABOUT 500 ML (17 FL OZ/2 CUPS)

1 litre (34 fl oz/4 cups) water

3 cinnamon sticks
1 star anise
peel of 1 orange
400 g (14 oz/2 cups) brown sugar

1. In a large saucepan over a high heat, bring the water to the boil. Add
cinnamon, anise and orange peel and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for
10–15 minutes until the water has been properly infused and the volume
has reduced by half.
2. Add the brown sugar and stir until dissolved. Leave to simmer for a
further 5 minutes until the mixture has the consistency of a light syrup.
3. Allow to cool, then pour into a bottle to store.
Theforbest breakfasts are served in Mexico. Long before going out
brunch became popular, Mexicans would go for the
equivalent breakfasts for business meetings, to meet with friends or
to see family at the weekends. Going out for breakfast is definitely a
part of the social calendar for many in Mexico City, and it can be
one of the hardest times of day to get a table in some of the best
restaurants.
Mexican breakfasts are a culinary representation of our country,
its diversity, microclimate and traditions. One of our weekly rituals
when I was a child was going for breakfast to a English inspired
restaurant called La Cochera del Bentley (‘The Bentley Garage’).
My parents and their friends would enjoy their famous eggs
Benedict while Mexican hot chocolate and pancakes where a hit
with the younger audience. A 1970s Bentley bonnet took centre
stage at the entrance and the restaurant prided itself on being
quintessentially British. Little did I know I would end up setting up
the inverse, a Mexican restaurant in London.
On my visits back to the city, I often like to start the day at a
street food stall for an atole, a thick, filling drink made with corn
and often flavoured with fruits or chocolate. I accompany it with a
tamale, a corn-dough parcel filled with chicken, pork or vegetables,
served with a salsa, which will fill you up for several hours.
My absolute favourite everyday breakfast is chilaquiles – crispy
corn tortilla chips, drenched in salsa and topped with cream, cheese
and red onion. You can enjoy these everywhere from street stands or
in the city’s most iconic restaurants. In Mexico’s picturesque
Condesa neighbourhood, there is even a street corner known as La
Esquina del Chilaquil. It’s run by Perla Guzman, whose
grandmother started selling food from that same corner over 70
years ago. Every day of the year Perla and her family get up at 4am
to start to prepare the food and from 8am to 1pm serve a queue that
can span the entire block. The options are simple, red or green
chilaquiles, served with black beans, cream, cheese and chicken in
breadcrumbs. The combination is sublime.
 For a breakfast steeped in tradition El Cardenal, in the historic
centre, has been serving Mexican cuisine with impeccable service
since the 1960s. Back then it was the favoured breakfast spot of the
country’s top politicians. The white tablecloths, grandiose wooden
staircase and smartly dressed servers will leave you feeling that you
have gone back in time to an era of decadence and luxury. And the
freshly baked pastries and Mexican hot chocolate provide a
wonderful start to the day which are hard to beat.
French Toast with Agave, Cacao Nibs and Bacon
Cinnamon plays a big part in Mexican cooking. While these delicate
quills are not indigenous to Mexico and were originally imported
from Sri Lanka, states like Veracruz and Tabasco now produce
cinnamon. What makes this French toast unique is its coating of
cinnamon sugar. Use thick brioche slices to get the full contrast
between the moist centre and crispy topping.
SERVES 4

300 ml (10 fl oz/1¼ cups) milk

2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
8 rashers (slices) of smoked back or streaky bacon
4 tablespoons dark agave syrup
20 g (¾ oz/1½ tablespoons) butter
200 g (7 oz) stale brioche loaf, cut into thick slices

FOR THE COATING

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
4 tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar

FOR THE TOPPING

60 g (2 oz) Granola with Amaranth
15 g (½ oz) cacao nibs
1 tablespoon agave syrup, to drizzle

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/400°F/gas mark 6 and line a baking

tray (pan) with baking parchment.
2. Combine the milk, eggs, vanilla and cinnamon in a medium-sized bowl
and whisk until well blended. Set aside.
3. Brush the bacon rashers on both sides with the agave syrup and place on
the prepared baking tray. Bake for about 6 minutes on each side, or until
well caramelised. Set aside and keep warm.
4. Melt the butter in a large frying pan (skillet) over a very low heat. Dip
each brioche slice into the egg mixture, then place into the frying pan.
Cook for 2 minutes on each side, or until golden.
5. Meanwhile, prepare the cinnamon sugar coating by mixing together the
cinnamon and sugar in a small bowl and setting aside.
6. Transfer the brioche slices on to serving plates and lightly dust on both
sides with the cinnamon sugar. Top with the bacon rashers, then sprinkle
with the granola and cocoa nibs. Finish with a drizzle of agave syrup and
serve.
Atole de Fresas
Corn is both eaten and drunk in Mexico! Traditionally, the fresh
corn masa is diluted into water to thicken it, but here, I use dry
masa harina and flavour it with fresh fruit purée, cinnamon and
sugar. My kids love it with strawberries, which is what I’ve used
here. Atole will give you all the strength you need to start your cold
winter day. You can swap the strawberries for blackberries, or even
Mexican chocolate tablets to turn this into a chocolate atole.
SERVES 4

800 ml (28 fl oz/3¼ cups) water

80 g (3 oz/¾ cup) dry masa harina
90 g (3¼ oz/½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) strawberries, hulled

1. In a medium-sized saucepan, bring 400 ml (13 fl oz) of the water to a

simmer over a medium heat.
2. In a jug (pitcher), dilute the masa harina in 300 ml (10 fl oz/1¼ cups)
cold water, then whisk this mixture into the simmering water. Add the
sugar and cinnamon and simmer for 10–15 minutes, stirring occasionally,
until the mixture thickens.
3. Place the strawberries in a blender with the remaining 100 ml (3½ fl
oz/scant ½ cup) water and blend until smooth. If your blender is not
powerful enough to crush the strawberry seeds, pass the mixture through a
sieve (fine mesh strainer). Stir the strawberry purée into the mixture in the
saucepan and simmer for another 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the sugar,
then serve hot.
Chilaquiles Verde with Fried Eggs
This is one of the dishes that I enjoy the most. It combines the
flavours and textures I love best in Mexican cooking, and can be
found on breakfast, lunch and even dinner menus! I genuinely
believe that there are no rules for chilaquiles, as long as totopos are
kept crunchy and fully covered in salsa. My wife Natalie agrees,
and her favourites are chilaquiles verdes. I also like chilaquiles with
mole: just substitute the salsa verde for the mole recipe.
You can make the totopos in advance and keep them in an airtight
container until needed. They should absorb the sauce, but still
remain a bit crispy. The key is to serve the chilaquiles as soon as
they are done so they keep their texture and crispiness. Adjust the
spiciness if you are hungover by adding a few more chillies to the
salsa – chilaquiles are the best hangover cure.
SERVES 4

½ red onion, thinly sliced

1 quantity Salsa Verde or 2 quantities Salsa Roja
3 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil
20 g (¾ oz/1½ tablespoons) butter
8 eggs
1 quantity Totopos
120 g (4 oz) Crema
10 g (¼ oz) grated Cotija or Pecorino cheese
freshly chopped coriander (cilantro) leaves, for garnish

1. First, place the thinly sliced red onion in a small bowl of cold water and
set aside while you prepare the chilaquiles. The water will soften the raw
onion taste. In Mexico, we call this process desflemar.
2. You will need two large frying pans (skillets). In the first, fry the salsa in
the oil over a medium heat for 2–3 minutes. Meanwhile, in the second
 frying pan, melt the butter over a medium heat until foamy. Add the eggs
and cook for about 3 minutes, or until the whites are set but the yolks are
still runny.
3. When the eggs and salsa are ready, add the totopos to pan with the salsa
and toss until well coated.
4. Quickly divide the totopos between the plates, then top each plate with
two eggs. Garnish with dollops of crema, slices of red onion, and a
scattering or your chosen cheese and coriander.

TIP: The recipe can easily be halved to serve two.

Hibiscus Tamales
Most traditional sweet tamales in Mexico City are strawberry and
pineapple. I came up with these hibiscus tamales for my children
Sebastian and Cecilia. They are are not too sweet, they contain fresh
fruit, and they can be prepared in batches and frozen so they are
always available for breakfast. My kids love them!
My earliest memories of sweet tamales are the classic strawberry
tamales from the puesto (market stall) that we would buy them on
the way to my primary school in Coyoacán, Mexico City.
MAKES 6

6 large dried corn husks (see Tip)

200 g (7 oz/1¾ cups) corn masa harina
¼ teaspoon baking powder
100 g (3½ oz) butter, melted and lukewarm
190 ml (6½ fl oz/scant ¾ cup) Hibiscus Cordial, at room temperature
200 ml (7 fl oz/¾ cup) milk, at room temperature
100 g (3½ oz) fresh blueberries

1. Place the corn husks in a large saucepan of simmering water and leave to
soften for 30 minutes.
2. Fill the bottom of a steamer with 5 cm (2 in) water and bring to the boil.
3. Meanwhile, place the masa harina in a large bowl. Add the baking
powder and whisk until well blended.
4. Make a well in the centre of the masa harina. Add the melted butter and
start mixing it in with your hand, gradually adding the cordial first, then
the milk. Continue to mix until a dough forms with a smooth consistency
and no lumps. It should be soft and slightly sticky. Work this dough well,
for at least 7 minutes, until it becomes light and very malleable. You can
use a stand mixer for this, or ideally a thermal mixer. Wrap in cling film
 (plastic wrap) or a damp tea towel and allow to rest for 10 minutes before
using.
5. To make a tamale, place 60 g (2 oz) masa in the centre of one of the
softened corn husks. Make a dip in the centre of the masa and spoon some
of the blueberries into it. Fold the edges of the masa over the filling to
form a tube. Tuck both ends of the tube in towards the centre and secure
with a strand of husk or a piece of string. If the corn husk is not long
enough for this, tie each end like a Christmas cracker. Repeat with the
remaining ingredients to make 6 tamales.
6. Cook the tamales in the steamer for 25 minutes, then turn off the heat and
leave in the steamer for another 25 minutes. Unfold and serve the tamales
in their husks, but do not eat the husks – just use them as plates, then
discard.

If your corn husks aren’t big enough, you can use two
TIP:
overlapping husks for each tamale.
Huevos Divorciados
‘Divorciado’ is a term we use colloquially when referring to a dish
served with the salsa on the side, or a drink with the mixer served
separately. It literally translates as ‘divorced’. With huevos
divorciados, the two salsas are not even supposed to touch and are
kept separated by beans. You can have one separately from the other
if you cannot decide which to go for, or you can combine them
according to your preference. It tastes as vibrant and satisfying as it
looks.
SERVES 4

1 quantity Salsa Roja Cruda

½ quantity Salsa Verde Cruda
800 g (1 lb 12 oz) Avocado Black Bean Refritos
8 tortillas (12 cm/4½ in in diameter)
1 tablespoon grapeseed or vegetable oil
40 g (1½ oz) butter
8 eggs
20 g (¾ oz) Cotija or Pecorino cheese, grated
½ small red onion, finely sliced
a few sprigs of coriander (cilantro)

1. Preheat the oven to 100°C/80°C fan/210°F/gas mark ¼.

2. In three separate pans, gently warm through the salsas and refried beans.
Keep warm until needed.
3. Heat a large non-stick frying pan (skillet) over a low–medium heat.
Lightly brush the tortillas with the oil and pan-fry each one for a minute
on each side, until soft and pliable. If you like, you can fry them for a little
bit longer until the edges turn crispier and firm. This gives a completely
different texture – both are delicious and will work equally well for this
 breakfast. Wrap the warmed tortillas in a clean kitchen towel or some
baking parchment and place in the oven to keep warm until needed.
4. In the same frying pan over a medium heat, melt the butter. Crack four of
the eggs into the pan and cook for about 3 minutes. Transfer the eggs to an
ovenproof dish and set aside in the warm oven while you fry the rest of
the eggs.
5. To serve, place two tortillas on each plate, and one fried egg on each
tortilla. Spoon a line of refried beans down the centre of the plate. Cover
the white of one egg with warm salsa roja and the white of the other with
warm salsa verde, leaving the yolks free of sauce. Garnish with grated
Cotija or pecorino cheese, sliced red onion and coriander. Serve at once.
Machaca Scrambled Egg Burrita
When I first arrived in London back in 2007, burritos were a big
trend. I remember having drinks at the pub with Natalie’s friends
from university. One of them, Hayley, told us about how she was
looking forward to trying a burrito while visiting Chiapas for the
first time during her gap year. She was really looking forward to the
‘real deal’ while in Mexico – but she couldn’t find any. Back then, a
lot of people were familiar with the kind of burritos we find on the
UK high street, but these are Tex-Mex or Californian.
What you find in Mexico are burritas, which come from the north
of Mexico. They are traditionally filled with a smear of beans, meat
and salsa only, so they are smaller and simpler than the Tex-Mex
variety, which are filled with a lot more ingredients, including rice,
pico de gallo, soured cream, etc.
Machaca could be described as the Mexican version of beef
jerky. It is traditionally found in the northern regions of Mexico:
Monterrey, Sonora and Chihuahua. The beef is marinated with salt
and spices and left to dry in the sun before being finely shredded. I
remember my father returning from working trips to Monterrey with
packs of machaca and wheat flour tortillas, which are more popular
in the north. My mother would lightly fry the machaca, then add it
to scrambled eggs. These were then wrapped in a wheat tortilla with
a smear of refried beans – no salsa. Perfect for children, and a
delicious light meal. These days, I can definitely tolerate more
spiciness, so I have added a unique smoky salsa made with my
favourite pasilla mixe chillies. I hope the combination makes sense
to your taste buds, as this is my favourite way.
MAKES 6
250 g (9 oz) Refried Beans
50 ml (1¾ fl oz/3 tablespoons) water
120 g (4 oz) machaca or beef jerky strips
2 tablespoons oil
200 g (7 oz) Onion Sofrito
3 ripe tomatoes, chopped
6 large eggs, whisked
60g (2 oz) cold butter
300 g (10 oz) Salsa Pasilla Mixe
6 wheat tortillas, homemade or shop-bought

1. Place the refried beans and water in a saucepan over a medium heat and
cook until heated through, stirring often and being careful not to let them
burn at the bottom.
2. If you are using beef jerky strips, place them in a food processor and
process until finely shredded. This might take a few minutes.
3. Heat the oil in a large frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat and fry the
shredded beef pieces for a couple of minutes until slightly toasted. Add
the Onion Sofrito and cook for 6–8 minutes until slightly caramelised.
Add the chopped tomatoes and cook for 3–4 minutes until they start to
disintegrate. Set aside and keep warm while you cook the eggs.
4. Pour the whisked eggs into a medium-sized saucepan and add the cold
butter. Cook over a medium heat for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly
with a spatula, until the eggs are scrambled and fluffy. Move the pan on
and off the heat if they are cooking too fast. Add the eggs to the machaca
mixture and remove the frying pan from the heat.
5. Preheat the oven to 100°C/80°C fan/210°F/gas mark ¼.
6. Heat a large, non-stick frying pan (skillet) over a low to medium heat and
warm one tortilla for about 20–30 seconds on each side. Transfer the
warm tortilla to a chopping board. Spoon a sixth of the refried beans in a
horizontal line across the tortilla, slightly lower than the centre of the
tortilla. Top the refried beans with a sixth of the machaca and scrambled
 egg mixture. Finally, drizzle a sixth of the salsa over the top (if you’re
making this for kids, you might prefer to leave the salsa on the side).
7. Fold both sides of the tortilla towards the centre, leaving a gap of
uncovered filling in the middle. Now use your thumbs to bring up the
bottom part of the tortilla to cover the filling. You will have a shape that
looks like an opened envelope. Clamping your hand over the folded
tortilla, pull it slightly towards you to give it a round shape. Roll it as
tightly as you can into a cylinder.
8. Keep the burrita warm in the oven while you make the others. You can
also slightly toast them once wrapped in a non-stick frying pan.

TIP:This recipe can easily be scaled down if you only want to make
a couple of burritas.
Molletes with Pico de Gallo
Red Leicester cheese is coloured with annatto, the seeds of our
Mexican achiote tree. When annatto seeds were imported from
Central America in the 18th century, their intense colouring effect
and flavour made them the ingredient of choice over the carrot or
saffron that had previously been used. I like to use Red Leicester
because of that historical connection.
Molletes are a very common Mexican family breakfast that kids
love. They are so satisfying that I would easily have them any time
of the day.
SERVES 4

1 baguette
40 g (1½ oz) butter, softened
400 g (14 oz) Avocado Black Bean Refritos
400 g (14 oz) Red Leicester or Cheddar cheese, or a mixture of both,
grated

FOR THE PICO DE GALLO

300 g (10 oz) cherry tomatoes, quartered
½ teaspoon salt
juice of 1 lime
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
2 jalapeño chillies, thinly sliced
15 g (½ oz) coriander (cilantro), chopped

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/350°F/gas mark 4 and line a baking

tray (pan) with baking parchment.
2. To begin making the chunky pico de gallo, place the quartered cherry
tomatoes in a bowl and sprinkle with salt. Set aside. In a separate small
bowl, pour the lime juice over the onion slices and leave to desflemar.
3. To prepare the molletes, halve the baguette lengthwise. Remove the bread
inside each half to create space for the filling. Spread the hollow baguette
halves with the soft butter and place on the prepared baking tray. Bake for
5 minutes until crispy.
4. Switch your oven to the grill (broil) setting on medium heat, or if you
have a separate grill (broiler), preheat it to medium. Spread the black bean
refritos inside the baguettes, then top with cheese. Grill (broil) for 5–7
minutes until the cheese is melted and slightly golden.
5. Meanwhile, finish the pico de gallo. Add the onion and lime juice to the
bowl with the tomatoes and mix together, then stir in the jalapeños and
coriander. Adjust seasoning to taste.
6. Remove the baguettes from the oven or grill. Scatter the pico de gallo
over the top, then cut the baguettes into chunks and serve at once.
Huevos Motuleños
Originally from Yucatan, this dish shines on the menus of all good
breakfast restaurants in Mexico City. Don’t be scared by the amount
of preparation required: remember, Mexican cooking is ‘slow food’
by its very nature. If you have the basic components in your
refrigerator, it takes very little time to assemble. I like to serve it
with smoked ham hock, but it is equally delicious with smoked
bacon or cubed ham, which is how these are traditionally served in
the little village of Motul in the Yucatan Peninsula.
SERVES 4

300 g (10 oz) Avocado Black Bean Refritos

600 g (1 lb 5 oz) Caldillo de Jitomate
25 g (1 oz) Chipotle en Adobo Purée
150 g (5 oz) fresh or frozen peas
200 g (7 oz) pulled Smoked Ham Hock or 4 smoked bacon rashers
(slices)
4 corn tortillas
1 teaspoon oil, plus extra for frying the eggs
20 g (¾ oz) butter
1 fully ripe plantain, peeled and sliced
4 eggs
150 g (5 oz) Queso Fresco or feta cheese
finely chopped coriander (cilantro), to garnish

1. Heat the oven to 140°C/120°C fan/275°F/gas mark 1.

2. Reheat the black bean refritos and the Caldillo de Jitomate by warming
through in separate pans. If you want a spicier caldillo, add the chipotle
purée, to taste.
3. Cook the peas in a saucepan of boiling water for a few minutes, then drain
and keep warm. Reheat the pulled ham hock in a little of its stock and
 keep warm, or fry the bacon and keep warm.
4. To make the tostadas, lightly coat the tortillas on each side with oil. Place
a metal rack over a baking tray (pan) and arrange the tortillas on top. Bake
for 15–20 minutes, or until crispy, turning them halfway through.
5. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a frying pan (skillet) over a low heat and fry
the plantain slices for about 6 minutes or until golden outside and tender
inside. Set aside and keep warm.
6. Wipe the pan, add a bit of oil and fry the eggs for a couple of minutes.
7. To serve, place a tostada on each serving plate, then spread some black
bean refritos on top. Spoon some caldillo over the beans, making sure you
are covering the edges of the tostadas, then top with an egg, some pulled
ham or bacon, and peas. Crumble some fresh cheese on top and garnish
with coriander. Serve straight away, before the tostadas lose their
crispiness.
Granola with Amaranth
I love to play with texture, and this granola ticks all the boxes. I
bake it at two different temperatures to get the crispiest oats, seeds
and almonds, then combine them with the fluffy amaranth and moist
cranberries.
MAKES 680 G (1 LB 8 OZ)

50 g (2 oz/4 tablespoons) amaranth seeds

200 g (7 oz/1½ cups) oats
100 g (3½ oz/¾ cup) pumpkin seeds
70 g (2½ oz) whole almonds
50 g (2 oz) coconut oil, melted
30 g (1 oz) dark agave syrup
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) apple juice
180 g (6½ oz) cranberries

1. Preheat the oven to 140°C/120°C fan/275°F/gas mark 1. Line a baking

tray (pan) with baking parchment.

1. First, make the puffed amaranth. Place a small saucepan over a medium to
high heat. Once it’s hot, spread half of the amaranth seeds across the base
of the pan and wait for them to pop – it should happen quickly. If they
don’t pop, your pan is not hot enough, so wipe it and start again. Once
they start popping, shake the pan to make sure all the seeds pop and
nothing burns. Remove the puffed seeds from the pan and repeat with the
remaining seeds. Set aside.
2. Combine the oats, pumpkin seeds, almonds, coconut oil, agave and apple
juice together and mix well.
3. Transfer the mixture on to the prepared baking tray and bake for 30
minutes, stirring every 10 minutes. Then reduce the oven temperature to
100°C/80°C fan/215°F/gas mark ¼ and bake for another 40 minutes.
 Leave the tray in the oven, with the door slightly ajar, until the mix is
completely cool, around 15 minutes.
4. Remove from the oven and stir in the amaranth and cranberries, then leave
to cool. It will keep well in an airtight container for 2 weeks.
Amaranth and Coconut Porridge
Amaranth is gluten-free and high in protein, manganese and
magnesium. What could be better for breakfast? It is an indigenous
crop to Mexico, praised by the Aztecs and used as an offering to the
gods. Amaranth is now back in trend and classified as a superfood.
Serve it like porridge, with the toppings of your choice – try the
Hibiscus Compote and a sprinkle of the Granola with Amaranth for
crunchiness.
SERVES 2

200 g (7 oz/1 cup) amaranth seeds

800 ml (28 fl oz/3¼ cups) coconut water
2 cm (½ in) piece of fresh ginger root, peeled and grated
2 star anise
½ cinnamon stick
pinch of salt

TO SERVE
Hibiscus Compote
Granola
your choice of dried fruits, nuts and seeds

1. Place all the porridge ingredients in a medium-sized saucepan over a high

heat. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 35–40
minutes, stirring occasionally, making sure nothing sticks to the bottom.
The amaranth should be tender and the mixture should have the
consistency of porridge. Add a little more coconut water if you want it
thinner.
2. Remove the star anise and cinnamon and serve with your choice of
topping.
unch in Mexico City is the main meal of the day and takes place
around 3pm. The entire city grinds to a halt for a couple of
L hours, and virtually everyone leaves their places of work for a
leisurely, drawn-out meal. Fondas across the city serve home
style cooking as part of their comida corrida, or meal of the day.
Lunch consists of a starter of soup or pasta, followed by a
traditional lunchtime dish such as meatballs in chipotle sauce, and a
dessert like rice pudding or flan. This is always accompanied by
aguas frescas of tamarind, horchata or hibiscus or any other fruit
that is in season. The prices are exceptionally reasonable, for many
it’s food they would eat at home and the daily changing menu
ensures your main meal of the day is filling, varied and substantial.
I can’t go to Mexico City without having lunch at least once at
Contramar. The restaurant serves the freshest seafood from
Mexico’s coastal regions. These including the signature tuna
tostadas, pescado a la talla and many other delights. The buzz of
the vibrant dining room, the consistency of the food and the
impeccable service make it a joy to visit every time. And it never
disappoints.
For me one of the best places to have lunch is in one of Mexico
City’s markets. Filled with rows and rows of fruit and vegetables, as
well as an exceptional array of pinatas for children’s festivities,
lunch at the market is a cultural immersion in itself. On our last visit
to Coyoacán market we ended up with a life size pinata of a cartoon
character that my son Sebastian insisted on taking back to the UK
with us, and we only stopped off for some tostadas! My absolute
favourite are pig’s trotter tostadas, pickled and served with shredded
lettuce, cream and cheese. And no visit to a Mexican market is
complete without enjoying a Mexican prawn (shrimp) cocktail.
Expertly prepared in front of you and eaten at the counter, this is a
dish that is as emblematic of Mexico City as of anywhere on
Mexico’s coast.
Sopa de Tortilla
One of the beauties of sopa de tortilla is its versatility. Also called
sopa Azteca, this is a soup that can easily be turned into a family
meal. The idea is to put all the toppings on the table and let
everyone make their own version. As a guideline, I have listed some
of the traditional toppings below, but more fried tortillas and chillies
can be added, or even some chicharrón –crispy deep-fried pork
rind.
SERVES 4

300 ml (10 fl oz/1¼ cups) vegetable oil, for frying

200 g (7 oz) tortillas, shop-bought or homemade
750 g (1 lb 10 oz) Caldillo de Jitomate
375 ml (12½ fl oz/1½ cups) Chicken Stock
375 g (13¼ oz) shredded cooked chicken
35 g (1¼ oz) Chipotle en Adobo Purée

TO GARNISH
1 avocado, peeled, stoned and finely diced
100 g (3½ oz) soured cream
100 g (3½ oz) Queso Fresco or feta
½ dried ancho chilli, very finely sliced
handful of coriander (cilantro) leaves

1. Heat the oil in a sauté pan over a medium to high heat until it reaches
170°C (340°F).
2. Cut the tortillas into strips measuring 1 cm (½ in) wide and 6 cm (2½ in)
long. Fry these in the hot oil in batches, then leave to drain on paper
towels. Set aside.
3. In a large saucepan over a medium heat, simmer the caldillo, chicken
stock and shredded chicken for 10–15 minutes. Gradually add the chipotle
 en adobo purée, testing after each addition, until you are happy with the
spiciness.
4. Place some fried tortilla ribbons at the bottom of a soup bowl and ladle
some of the caldillo mixture over the top. Garnish with diced avocado, a
spoonful of soured cream, some crumbled queso fresco or feta, a little
ancho chilli, some torn coriander leaves and a few extra fried tortilla
ribbons. Repeat for the other bowls and serve at once.
Watercress and Radish Salad with Puffed
Amaranth
Radishes were not my favourite as a kid. I have learnt to appreciate
them over the years, though, and their peppery taste mixes perfectly
with a citrusy dressing. This is a particularly simple and refreshing
summer salad, sprinkled with crispy puffed amaranth for even more
crunchiness.
SERVES 4

1 watermelon radish, thinly sliced with a mandoline or sharp knife

10 breakfast radishes, halved or quartered
100 g (3½ oz) watercress
100 g (3½ oz) rocket (arugula)
1 avocado, peeled, stoned and sliced
150 g (5 oz) cherry tomatoes

FOR THE PUFFED AMARANTH

20 g (¾ oz/1¾ tablespoons) amaranth seeds

FOR THE DRESSING

100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) grapefruit juice
50 ml (1¾ fl oz/3 tablespoons) lemon juice
1½ tablespoons cider vinegar
½ teaspoon honey
¼ teaspoon salt
150 ml (5 fl oz/scant ⅔ cup) extra virgin olive oil
10 g (½ oz) mint leaves, finely chopped

1. Begin by making the puffed amaranth. Preheat a small saucepan over a

medium–high heat. Once it’s hot, spread half of the amaranth seeds across
the base of the pan and wait for them to pop – it should happen quickly. If
they don’t pop, your pan is not hot enough, so wipe it and start again.
 Once they start popping, shake the pan to make sure all the seeds pop and
nothing burns. Remove the puffed seeds from the pan and repeat with the
remaining seeds. Set aside.
2. To make the dressing, combine the citrus juices, vinegar, honey and salt in
a bowl or jug and whisk until well blended. Slowly add the olive oil,
whisking until the mixture is emulsified. Set aside.
3. Arrange the radishes, watercress, rocket, avocado and tomatoes on 4
plates. Drizzle each with some dressing and garnish with the puffed
amaranth. Serve with any remaining dressing on the side.
Heirloom Tomato Salad with Cacao and Agave
Dressing
I originally created this salad dressing for fresh tomatillos, but it is
also delicious with tomatoes, especially in the summer when ripe
multi-coloured heirloom tomatoes appear in the markets. The
dressing is a simple mixture of balsamic vinegar, agave syrup and
cacao nibs. If you leave it to infuse for a few days, the cacao nibs
release their complex flavour, like a vintage liqueur.
SERVES 4

½ small fennel bulb

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) heirloom tomatoes – choose assorted shapes and colours
1 teaspoon ancho chilli flakes
extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
salt
coriander (cilantro) leaves, to garnish

FOR THE DRESSING

100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) balsamic vinegar
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) dark agave syrup
6 tablespoons cacao nibs

1. Prepare the dressing at least a day in advance. Mix together the balsamic
vinegar, agave syrup and cacao nibs in a jar and leave at room temperature
to infuse.
2. To make the salad, remove the fennel’s coarse outer leaves, then halve the
bulb and remove the core. Thinly slice the fennel bulb, then leave to soak
in cold water for 30 minutes. The cold water will make the fennel even
more crunchy.
3. Cut the tomatoes into wedges and quarter the smaller ones. Sprinkle with
salt and leave aside. The salt will draw the juices from the tomatoes,
 releasing their sweet flavour, while the slight acidity from the juices will
complement the dressing.
4. To assemble the salad, place the tomatoes and their juices in a serving
bowl. Add the sliced fennel and about 3 tablespoons of the dressing.
Gently toss, then drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with the ancho chilli
flakes and coriander leaves. Serve at once.
Seafood Cocktail
This seafood cocktail is a classic in well-established marisquerias in
Mexico City, probably because it reminds us of holidays by the
coast, so enjoying it in the city is a culinary dream. Keep the sauce
in the refrigerator or on ice and mix the ingredients just before
serving.
SERVES 4

2 tablespoons salt
3 bay leaves
8 large king prawns (shrimp), left whole
8 sushi-grade scallops
2 avocados, peeled and stoned, 1 sliced and 1 diced
Tostadas or crackers, to serve

FOR THE COCKTAIL SAUCE

200 g (7 oz/¾ cup) tomato ketchup
½ red onion, finely chopped
½ jalapeño chilli, finely chopped
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon Tabasco sauce
3½ tablespoons tomato juice
1¾ tablespoons lime juice
3½ tablespoons orange juice
3–4 sprigs of coriander (cilantro), finely chopped, plus whole leaves to
garnish
pinch of salt
pinch of freshly ground black pepper

1. Begin by making the cocktail sauce. Mix together all the ingredients in a
bowl and set aside in the refrigerator until you are ready to serve.
2. Bring 2 litres (70 fl oz/8 cups) of water to the boil in a large saucepan and
add the salt and bay leaves. Add the prawns and simmer for 3–4 minutes,
depending on their size.
3. Meanwhile, fill a large bowl with water and ice cubes. When the prawns
are cooked, drain and immediately plunge them into the iced water to stop
the cooking process. Drain again.
4. Peel the prawns, then slice each in half lengthways and remove any black
veins. Reserve 4 halves for garnish, and roughly chop the rest. Halve the
scallops horizontally, then quarter.
5. Place the chopped prawns, chopped scallops and cocktail sauce in a bowl
and mix until well blended. Add the diced avocado and mix gently, being
careful not to break up the avocado. Taste and adjust seasoning.
6. Divide the mixture between 4 serving glasses and garnish each one with
avocado slices, coriander leaves and a prawn half. Serve with tostadas or
crackers.
Lentil Soup with Plantain and Pancetta
This is a simple, healthy soup that your kids will love. It reminds
me of home and brings back early memories of comfort food. The
sweetness of the buttered fried plantain and the smokiness of the
pancetta enhance the earthy flavour of the lentils. My Abuela
Carmela’s finishing touch was freshly chopped parsley and finely
chopped pico de gallo.
SERVES 4

200 g (7 oz/1 cup) brown lentils

2 bay leaves
2 garlic cloves, peeled
1 onion, quartered
800 ml (28 fl oz/3¼ cups) water
2 tablespoons olive oil
35 g (1¼ oz) Mojo de Ajo
500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) Caldillo de Jitomate
small bunch of fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
¾ teaspoon salt
20 g (¾ oz) butter
1 plantain, peeled and chopped
150 g (5 oz) pancetta or smoked bacon, cubed
Pico de Gallo, optional

1. Place the lentils, bay leaves, garlic cloves and a quarter of the onion in a
saucepan. Add 600 ml (20 fl oz/2½ cups) of water and 1 tablespoon of the
olive oil. Bring to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes until the lentils are
tender and the water has been absorbed.
2. Meanwhile, thinly slice the rest of the onion. Heat the remaining olive oil
in a second saucepan over a low heat. Add the Mojo de Ajo and sliced
 onion and cook for 10 minutes, then add the Caldillo de Jitomate and
bring to a simmer.
3. Remove the onion quarter and garlic cloves from the lentils. Stir in the
caldillo mixture, along with half of the parsley and 200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1
cup) of water. Simmer for 10 minutes, then add the salt. Taste and adjust
seasoning if needed.
4. Just before serving, prepare the garnish. Melt the butter in a medium-sized
frying pan (skillet) over a low heat, then add the plantain and fry for about
6 minutes until soft and slightly caramelised. Remove from the pan and
keep warm. Keeping the pan on the heat, add the pancetta or bacon and
fry for 3–4 minutes until crispy.
5. Serve the soup garnished with the plantain, pancetta and remaining
parsley, and, if you like, some pico de gallo, just like my grandma.
Hibiscus Flower Enchiladas
Once you are used to preparing this enchilada salsa, I encourage you
to try it with different kinds of chillies. I personally love the flavour
of meco chipotle chillies from the state of Puebla. They have a
unique smokiness and texture. My local bodega in New York – Mi
Barrio in Bushwick – where we used to get our groceries, genuinely
satisfied the demand for Puebla produce in the city. No wonder
Mexicans and New Yorkers call the city Puebla York: the Puebla
population there is huge, as is their culinary influence.
SERVES 2

¼ red onion, thinly sliced

6 tortillas, shop-bought or homemade
oil, for brushing
1 quantity hibiscus flower filling
180 g (6½ oz) Queso Fresco
coriander (cilantro) leaves, to garnish

FOR THE ENCHILADA SALSA

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) tomatoes
1 large onion, quartered
3 red or green jalapeño chillies
8 garlic cloves, peeled
150 ml (5 fl oz/scant ⅔ cup) water
1 tablespoon oil
100 g (3½ oz) Crema
¾ teaspoon salt

1. Place the thinly sliced red onion in a small bowl of cold water and set
aside.
2. To make the salsa, place a comal or large, heavy-based frying pan (skillet)
over a medium to high heat and add the tomatoes, onion, jalapeños and
garlic. Roast for 20–30 minutes until charred and soft. Alternatively, you
can roast the vegetables in an oven preheated to 200°C/180°C
fan/400°F/gas mark 6 for 30–40 minutes. Leave to cool, then place the
roasted vegetables in a blender. Add the water and blend until smooth.
3. Preheat the oven to 100°C/80°C fan/210°F/gas mark ¼.
4. Heat the oil in a medium-sized saucepan. Add the blended vegetables and
simmer for 10–15 minutes until slightly reduced. Stir in the crema and salt
and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Taste and adjust the
seasoning. Keep warm while you prepare the quesadillas.
5. Place a large frying pan over a low–medium heat. Lightly brush the
tortillas with oil. Take the first tortilla and fry for about 30 seconds on
each side until soft and pliable. Cover half of the tortilla with about 30 g
(1 oz) of hibiscus flower filling, then top with about 15 g (½ oz) of queso
fresco. Fold the tortilla and fry for 2–3 minutes on each side until the
cheese has softened and the tortilla are crispy. Transfer to an ovenproof
dish in the oven to keep warm while you prepare the other tortillas.
6. Place three crispy quesadillas on each plate and top with a generous ladle
of creamy salsa. Drain the sliced onion and scatter it over the quesadillas,
along with some coriander leaves.
7. Serve at once.
Baja-style Fish Tacos
A classic from Baja California but now widely available anywhere
in Mexican territory, from Ensenada to Tulum, with restaurants
around the world replicating this Baja-style fish more and more in
their menus. Because corn tortillas are naturally gluten free, I
wanted to create a completely gluten-free fish taco. I find that
gluten-free flour and gluten-free beer, in addition to tequila or
vodka, made the fried fish fillet particularly crispy and airy.
For the salad, I use chayote, known as chow chow in Asian
cooking. Fresh and crunchy, it’s not a recipe that you will get tired
of. However, if you want to try something slightly different at any
time, try substituting the chipotle mayonnaise for the Jalapeño and
Lime Mayonnaise or, even better – and my favourite – tamarind
sauce.
MAKES 12

1 litre (34 fl oz/4 cups) oil, for frying

600 g (1 lb 5 oz) skinned haddock fillets
12 tortillas

FOR THE BATTER

150 g (5 oz/1 cup plus 2 tablespoons) gluten-free flour, plus 50 g (2
oz/scant ½ cup) extra for coating
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon tequila (or vodka)
about 150 ml (5 fl oz/scant ⅔ cup) gluten-free beer

FOR THE PICO DE GALLO

120 g (4 oz) tomatoes, deseeded and finely chopped
30 g (1 oz) red onion, finely chopped
20 g (¾ oz) green jalapeño chilli, finely chopped
10 g (½ oz) coriander (cilantro), finely chopped
7 g (¼ oz) mint, finely chopped

FOR THE CABBAGE SALAD

120 g (4 oz) red cabbage, thinly sliced
120 g (4 oz) chayote or cucumber, cut into thin strips
juice of 1 large lemon
salt, to taste

FOR THE CHIPOTLE MAYO

200 g (7 oz/1 cup) mayonnaise
50 g (2 oz) Chipotle en Adobo Purée
juice of ½ lime

1. Begin by preparing the batter. Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and
whisk until well blended. It should have the consistency of single (light)
cream: add a bit more beer if needed. Set aside.
2. Prepare all the ingredients for the pico de gallo and combine in a serving
bowl. Set aside.
3. Prepare the vegetables for the cabbage salad, but keep them in separate
bowls for now – they will be mixed at the last minute. Combine the
ingredients for the chipotle mayonnaise and set aside.
4. To cook the fish, heat the oil in a large saucepan until it reaches 180°C
(350°F). Preheat the oven to 120°C/100°C fan/250°F/ gas mark ½.
5. Slice the haddock diagonally into long, thin fillets of about 50 g (2 oz)
each. Place the extra flour on a plate and lightly dust each fillet with flour,
then dip into the beer batter before frying in the hot oil for 2–3 minutes.
You can fry about 4 fillets at a time. Remove from the oil and drain on
paper towels. Keep warm in the oven while you fry the remaining fillets.
6. When ready to serve, reheat the tortillas in a frying pan (skillet), lightly
coating them with oil. Mix the ingredients for the cabbage salad and
 season with the salt and lemon to taste.
7. Place the fried fish fillets, tortillas, red cabbage salad, pico de gallo and
chipotle mayonnaise on the table and let your guests assemble their own
tacos. Put some cabbage salad on a tortilla, top with a fried fish fillet and a
spoonful of mayonnaise, and garnish with pico de gallo. Enjoy!
Tacos Dorados with Mole ‘en Chinga’
‘En chinga’ is Mexican slang for ‘fast’ or, more accurately, ‘in a
f***ing hurry’. Not appropriate words for some, but being in a
hurry is basically a way of life in Mexico City. The expression has a
complicated background that I prefer to leave for a different book,
as even in Mexico it is controversial. It could be a verb, noun,
adverb or adjective; it could be encouraging or completely tragic. In
El Laberinto de la Soledad, Octavio Paz described it as having a
‘magic ambiguity’. When I use the phrase here, I just want to
express that this is probably the quickest way in which you can
replicate the traditional mole flavours at home and almost from
scratch. En chinga. And a note about plantains – you need to ensure
these are really ripe, and not green.
To prepare traditional mole, with all its versions, influences and
origins, is a long labour of love: days and days of roasting, charring,
frying, milling, grinding and cooking – a true example of slow food
and family traditions. Mole means it is a special occasion. This
recipe is for a quick version of mole that you can prepare at home
over the course of a relaxed afternoon, using widely available nut
butters and tahini to speed up the process, producing a wonderfully
smooth mole with just the right balance of flavours. It is important
to use a high-quality dark chocolate, an ingredient as complex as
any spice. This mole can be prepared in advance, and makes twice
the amount of sauce needed for the tacos dorados. You can use the
other half in chilaquiles, tamales, or as a sauce for poached chicken.
It will keep well for up to 1 week, and you can even freeze it.
SERVES 4

FOR THE MOLE

30 g (1 oz) pasilla mixe chillies, trimmed and deseeded
10 g (¼ oz) ancho chillies, trimmed and deseeded
½ cinnamon stick, broken into shards
2 cloves
2 star anise
2 large tomatoes
½ white onion
4 garlic cloves, peeled
2 tablespoons butter
1 very ripe plantain, peeled and chopped
90 g (3¼ oz) raisins
2 tablespoons black or white tahini
2 tablespoons peanut butter
2 tablespoons almond butter
45 g (1½ oz) 100 per cent unsweetened dark (bittersweet) chocolate,
finely chopped
2 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil
brown sugar, to taste
sea salt

FOR THE TACOS DORADOS

100 g (3½ oz) Onion Sofrito
400 g (14 oz) cooked chicken
20 tortillas (12 cm/4½ in diameter), shop-bought or homemade
6 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil, plus extra for brushing the
tortillas

TO GARNISH
4 generous tablespoons Crema
2 teaspoons sesame seeds, toasted
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
You will need 20 cocktail sticks (toothpicks)

1. Begin by making the mole. Place a comal or a heavy non-stick frying pan
(skillet) over a medium to high heat and toast the chillies for about 30
seconds on each side until pliable. Place them in a bowl and cover with
500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) of boiling water. Leave to soak for 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, in the same pan, toast the cinnamon shards, cloves and star
anise for 30 seconds, then set aside.
3. Keeping the pan on the heat, add the tomatoes, onion and garlic and roast
for 30–35 minutes until charred and soft. Alternatively, you can roast
them in an oven preheated to 200°C/180°C fan/400°F/gas mark 6 for 30–
40 minutes. Remove from the comal or oven and allow to cool. I like to
deglaze the comal with 50 ml (1¾ fl oz/3 tablespoons) of water to get a
more intense, smoky flavour.
4. Melt the butter in a small frying pan over a medium heat. Add the plantain
and fry for 6–7 minutes until caramelised. Transfer to a plate and set
aside. Add the raisins to the pan and cook for a couple of minutes until
puffed. Set aside.
5. Place the tomatoes and garlic in a blender, along with the smoky juices
from the pan. Add the chillies and their soaking water, plus the cinnamon
shards, cloves and star anise. Blend until smooth. Add the plantain,
raisins, tahini, peanut butter, almond butter and chocolate and blend again
until smooth. If your blender is not big enough, do this in batches.
6. Heat the oil in a saucepan and fry the mole over a low–medium heat for
15–20 minutes until it thickens but remains pourable. Check the seasoning
and adjust accordingly, adding the sugar or salt if needed, balancing its
sweetness, smokiness and spiciness.
7. Preheat the oven to 100°C/80°C fan/210°F/gas mark ¼. Place the thinly
sliced red onion in a small bowl of cold water and set aside.
8. Heat a large frying pan over a low heat and cook the onion sofrito until it
sizzles. Add the chicken and cook for 5–7 minutes, stirring, until well
blended and warm. Set aside.
9. Clean the frying pan and return it to the heat. Lightly brush the tortillas
with oil and pan-fry in batches until soft and pliable. Working quickly, fill
each tortilla with about 25 g (1 oz) of chicken mixture, then roll into a
taco and secure with a cocktail stick along the length of the taco – this
makes it easier to fry without them falling apart.
10. When all the tortillas are filled, heat 3 tablespoons oil in a large frying
pan and fry half of the soft tacos for a couple of minutes on each side until
golden and crispy. Transfer them to an ovenproof dish and keep warm in
the oven while you fry the other half of the tacos with the remaining 3
tablespoons oil. You now have chicken tacos dorados.
11. To serve, drain the red onion, then place 5 tacos dorados on each plate,
pour some mole over the top, and garnish with a spoonful of crema, some
toasted sesame seeds and some finely sliced red onion. Make sure you
have plenty of napkins nearby, as these deliciously addictive tacos are
messy.
Ox Tongue Tacos
This is one of my favourite tacos. It’s probably the taco I crave the
most while I’m not in Mexico City, and the one that I make the most
at home, because Natalie also loves them. These tacos are still one
of the best sellers at Santo Remedio from the specials board.
My mum prepares ox tongue sliced and grilled and then serves it
with Pipián Verde, probably my dad’s favourite dish – so it’s
genuinely long running family favourite.
Cooking ox tongue requires patience, love and practise; make
sure you ask your butcher in advance, and get the best quality that
you can.
FOR 20 TACOS

20 corn tortillas, shop-bought or homemade

1 tablespoon grapeseed or vegetable oil
4 limes, cut into wedges
coriander (cilantro) leaves, chopped, to garnish
red onion, finely chopped, to garnish
Salsa Verde Cruda and/or Salsa de Árbol, to serve

FOR THE OX TONGUE

1 whole ox tongue (around 1 kg/2 lbs 3 oz), washed and trimmed

300 g (10 ½ oz) rock salt
6 bay leaves
2 red onions, halved
1 tablespoon grapeseed or vegetable oil
juice of ½ lime
1 teaspoon of sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1. Cover the ox tongue with about 3 litres (101 fl oz/12 cups) of cold water.
Weigh it down with a plate, making sure the tongue is submerged. Leave
to soak for 24 hours in the refrigerator, changing the water about four
times over the course of this period, replacing the plate each time.
2. Combine the rock salt with a further 3 litres (101 fl oz/12 cups) in a large
pan. Bring to simmer, stirring all the time until the salt is dissolved.
Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
3. Drain and rinse the ox tongue. Cover with the prepared brine, making sure
it is submerged and leave in the refrigerator overnight.
4. The next day, rinse the tongue and place it in a large saucepan. Cover with
cold water and bring to a boil. As soon as it has reached its boiling point,
reduce to a simmer, add the bay leaves and red onions and cook slowly for
3–4 hours. The tongue is cooked when a knife can easily be inserted into
the flesh. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
5. When it is cool enough to handle, peel off and remove all of the skin.
Make sure you do this when the tongue is still warm and do it gently to
avoid damage when pulling to quick when peeling. It is almost impossible
to do it when the tongue is cold.
6. Slice the tongue and then chop into 1 cm (½ in) cubes.
7. In a saucepan over a medium high heat and fry the cubed ox tongue until
beginning to crisp, around 5 minutes. Season with the lime, salt and
pepper, moving constantly. Check seasoning and cook until fully crisp.
8. When ready to serve, reheat the tortillas in a frying pan, lightly coating
them with oil.
9. Served the ox tongue over the warm tortillas with the limes, coriander and
red onion to garnish, along with the salsa of your choice. I love to
combine Salsa Verde Cruda and a few drops of Salsa de Árbol, but Natalie
prefers just Salsa Verde Cruda on its own.
Tacos de Canasta
In Mexico City, a basket lined with a bright blue bag means tacos de
canasta (‘basket tacos’), also called tacos sudados (‘sweaty tacos’!).
These tacos are traditionally kept in a blue plastic bag in which they
steam in their own heat. Adding an oily adobo and quickly
wrapping them makes them soft, ‘sweaty’ and slightly oily, but
delicious. One of the many stories about the origin of these
traditional tacos is that they were invented in the middle of the last
century in San Vicente in the state Tlaxcala: the tacos de canasta
capital. They are cheap and extremely popular, with students, office
workers and burocratas grabbing them at lunchtime for a quick bite
on the go. One of the iconic sights of Mexico City are the taqueros,
vendors on bicycles carrying a huge basket lined with a blue bag
full of tacos, with condiments attached to the basket handle –
usually an old family-size mayonnaise jar full of spicy salsa verde
and another jar with escabeche or pickled onions.
Most chilangos would say that, without the basket and the plastic
bag, it’s not the real thing. I tend to agree, even though you can
replicate the effect at home by steaming your tacos in plastic bags
(of any colour!) to keep them warm. My little Sebastian objects to
plastic bags, so at home I use large sheets of beeswax wrap, which
comfortably keep half a dozen tacos sweaty.
These tacos are definitely my children’s favourites, and a very
easy and quick option for lunch or dinner, as you don’t necessarily
need to prepare all three fillings in one go. My daughter Cecilia’s
favourite filling is frijoles, while mine has always been chicharrón
prensado. As I’m almost 5,000 miles away from Mexico City, I
think this recipe is a quick and practical alternative to the traditional
one.
FOR 12 TACOS

12 tortillas, shop-bought or homemade

1 tablespoon grapeseed or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon Guajillo Adobo

FOR THE PAPAS CON CHORIZO

2 tablespoons oil
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) potatoes, peeled and diced
150 g (5 oz) cooking chorizo, skin removed, chopped

FOR THE FRIJOLES

350 g (12 oz) Avocado Black Bean Refritos
50 g (2 oz) feta cheese

FOR THE CHICHARRÓN PRENSADO

160 g (5¾ oz) good-quality pork crackling
8 tablespoons Guajillo Adobo
juice of 1 lime
20 mint leaves, chopped

TO GARNISH
1 small onion, thinly sliced
1 x quantity Orange Coleslaw Dressing
1 jalapeño chilli, tailed, trimmed, deseeded and cut into strips
Chiles en Escabeche

1. Place the onion slices in the orange dressing and leave to marinate while
you prepare the fillings.
2. For the papas con chorizo, heat the oil in a frying pan (skillet) over a
medium to high heat and add the potatoes. Fry for 15 minutes until tender
and golden brown, then add the chorizo and cook for a further 5 minutes.
Slightly crush the mixture, letting the oil released by the chorizo seep into
the potatoes. Season to taste and set aside to keep warm in the pan.
3. For the frijoles, simply place the beans in a saucepan over a low heat and
gently warm through, adding a bit of water if they become too dry. Set
aside in the pan to keep warm.
4. Meanwhile, finely crush half the crackling and roughly chop the other
half. Place the crushed and chopped crackling in a medium-sized frying
pan over a medium heat. Add the adobo and cook for 5 minutes until
fragrant. Add half the lime juice and the mint. Taste for seasoning, and
add more lime if needed. Set aside in the pan to keep warm.
5. When all the fillings are ready, mix the Guajillo Adobo with the vegetable
oil and lightly brush the mixture over the tortillas. Heat the tortillas in a
large non-stick frying pan over a medium heat, warming each one for 30
seconds on each side until soft and pliable.
6. Divide the fillings between the tortillas – there will be enough for 4
tortillas of each kind. Scatter the feta over the frijoles tortillas, then roll
into tacos. As soon as the tortillas are filled and rolled, wrap them in a
plastic or paper bag to keep warm and ‘sweaty’. Serve with the marinated
onions, fresh chilli strips and Chiles en Escabeche – just like in Mexico
City.
Pambazo
Pambazo is one of the most delicious sandwiches. It is the ultimate
street food; an explosion of taste in the mouth – and in the hands!
Many serviettes are required. What makes the pambazo unique is
the red telera bread, which is pan-fried in Guajillo Adobo. I love to
serve this sandwich with leftover roasted potatoes, grilled chorizo
sausages and a generous dollop of chipotle crema. It is a bit of a
production, but you won’t regret it.
MAKES 8

8 tablespoons Crema
2 tablespoons Chipotle en Adobo Purée
2 tablespoons butter
400 g (14 oz) leftover roasted potatoes, crushed
8 chorizo sausages, split open lengthways
200 g (7 oz) Cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese, grated
8 Telera breads
100 g (3½ oz) Guajillo Adobo
3 tablespoons oil
100 g (3½ oz) lettuce, chopped
120 g (4 oz) Cebolla Morada

1. In a bowl, mix together the Crema and Chipotle en Adobo Purée until well
blended. Set aside.
2. Melt the butter in a frying pan (skillet) over a low heat, then add the
crushed roasted potatoes and warm through. Set aside and keep warm.
Keeping the frying pan on the heat, add the chorizo sausages, split side-
down, and cook for 5 minutes, then turn over and cook for 5 minutes on
the other side.
3. Meanwhile, brush the Telera buns with the Guajillo Adobo. Heat the oil in
a separate frying pan over a medium heat and fry the buns for 1 minute on
 each side until slightly charred and soft. Do this in batches, frying 4 at a
time. Set aside, and once they’ve cooled just enough to handle, split them
open with a bread knife.
4. Preheat the grill (broiler) to medium and line a baking tray (pan) with tin
foil (aluminum foil).
5. Place 50 g (2 oz) of crushed potatoes on the bottom half of each bun, top
with a chorizo sausage and sprinkle with 25 g (1 oz) cheese. Arrange all
the buns on the prepared baking tray and place under the grill for 2–3
minutes until the cheese is melted.
6. Place the buns on a warmed serving platter and arrange the lettuce and
Cebolla Morada on the top of the cheese. Spread the top half of each bun
with chipotle crema and press lightly on top of each pambazo. Serve
straight away while still hot.
nacks in Mexico City are sold by street vendors, and are enjoyed by
those with a lack of time between meals because of commuting, but

S also in social settings, such as outside churches or main parks.

When I was a child, weekly church attendance with my family
was an hour spent daydreaming about which snacks I would get to
enjoy from the vendors waiting outside. Would it be a quesadilla
with chicharron, an empanada chicken tinga, or some sopes with
black beans and cheese topped with chorizo? With such dilemmas
as these as a child there was no time for me to spend the hour
contemplating anything more existential or esoteric.
My favourite place to spend an afternoon enjoying typical
Mexican snacks is in squares like San Angel. Here you can enjoy a
leisurely stroll on a Saturday afternoon with your snack of choice
while listening to street musicians or looking at artwork on sale in
the plaza, before passing some time at the Bazar del Sabado which
sells Mexican crafts, silver jewellery from the mining town of
Taxco and beautiful hand woven rugs. My snack of choice are
esquites, corn kernels charcoal-grilled or boiled with epazote and
árbol chilllies, and topped with mayo, lime, chilli and cheese.
There is simply no snack that is more Mexican than this.
With thousands of street vendors, there is an opportunity to stop
for a snack on almost every corner of Mexico City. Before the
Covid-19 pandemic there were 10,000 places in Mexico selling
tacos or tortas alone. The smell of quesadillas, tacos and other
Mexican antojitos wafts through the streets and is impossible to
resist – as are the vendors, with their stalls expertly set up to entice
passers-by in a city where the competition is rife.
Bright lights, colourful hand-painted signs and the smoke and
smell of sizzling meat all combine to make stopping irresistible,
even if you are not hungry! The streets of this city truly are a
culinary smorgasbord.
 Mexican antojitos are eaten by hand – no cutlery is involved,
just like in pre-Hispanic times. I genuinely feel that there is more of
a connection with the earth when we eat food by hand. Just heaven.
Hibiscus Flower Quesadillas
Not all hibiscus bushes are edible. Hibiscus sabdariffa, also called
Roselle, is the variety traditionally used in cooking. It is actually
the calyxes and not the flowers which are dried and used to make
hibiscus juice, cordial or tea. In my cooking, nothing is wasted, so
once they have been used for infusion, I like to use the sour berry-
like calyxes as a filling for quesadillas or enchiladas. This is not a
traditional Mexican filling, but I think it makes a delicious, crunchy
and interesting option for a simple vegetarian, zero-waste
quesadilla.
You might think that all quesadillas must be filled with cheese
(queso) – however, this is not the case in Mexico’s capital. It is still
a cultural and urban debate among tragónes and street food purists,
so it’s ok to be confused. When visiting a quesadilla stand in
Mexico City, be prepared to be asked ‘Con queso o sin queso,
joven?’ (‘With cheese or without cheese, young man?’) after
ordering from a huge variety of guisados (fillings) on offer, such as
chicharrón prensado, huitlacoche, mushrooms, flor de calabaza
and many more. So you can technically order one chicharrón
prensado with cheese and another without cheese, and both are
considered quesadillas. ‘Joven’ is generic: everyone is a young
man in Mexico City, regardless of their age, so take advantage
while visiting the capital.
SERVES 4

12 corn or wheat tortillas (12 cm/4½ in in diameter), store-bought or

homemade
180 g (6½ oz) Oaxaca, Monterey Jack or mozzarella cheese, grated
(optional)
FOR THE HIBISCUS FLOWER FILLING
30 g (1 oz) Mojo de Ajo
2 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil
100 g (3½ oz) Onion Sofrito
240 g (8½ oz) cooked hibiscus flowers
40 g (1½ oz) Chipotle en Adobo purée
60 g (2 oz) Caldillo de Jitomate
1 teaspoon salt
pinch of ground white pepper

1. To make the filling, heat the mojo de ajo and oil in a frying pan (skillet)
over a medium heat for a couple of minutes until hot. Add the onion
sofrito and flowers and fry for 5 minutes, then add the chipotle en adobo
purée and fry for a further 2 minutes. Finally, add the caldillo and fry
until the caldillo has been absorbed and reduced. Stir in the salt and
white pepper and keep warm.

If you’re using fresh tortillas

Prepare the fresh tortillas and cook in a comal or a heavy non-stick
frying pan. When the tortilla is partially cooked, add the hibiscus
flower filling (or the filling of your choice), then add the grated
cheese (if using) and fold the tortilla. Leave it a bit longer to allow
the cheese to melt, turning occasionally, until the tortilla dough is
fully cooked and the edges start to crisp.

If you’re using shop-bought tortillas

Heat a large non-stick frying pan over a low–medium heat. Reheat
the tortillas on both sides until they are soft and malleable enough
that when you fold them, they won’t break. Add the filling and
cheese, then fold and cook, turning occasionally, until the cheese is
melted. Quesadillas can be either really soft or slightly crispy. Like
chilaquiles, I prefer them crispy.
Esquites
This is one my favourite snacks when I’m in Mexico City and I
need a quick, healthy fix. Traditionally, elotes and esquites are sold
outside churches or parks where large groups congregate. My
favourites, as always, are the ones that are grilled on charcoal:
imagine a little robata grill (broiler) attached to a street cart. This
recipe uses the grill in your kitchen for easy home cooking, but if
you can get the barbecue going, this corn will acquire a wonderful
charred flavour. Pull the husks back, remove the silky threads, then
replace the husks and barbecue for 30–40 minutes, turning
regularly.
SERVES 4

4 corn cobs, husks and silky threads removed

1 litre (34 fl oz/4 cups) water
1 onion, halved
1 árbol chilli
30 g (1 oz) fresh coriander (cilantro)
4 bay leaves
20 g (¾ oz) Mojo de Ajo
1 tablespoon grapeseed or vegetable oil
¼ teaspoon Mexican oregano
¼ teaspoon salt

TO GARNISH
120 g (4 oz/generous ½ cup) mayonnaise or Chipotle Mayo
20 g (¾ oz) grated Pecorino cheese (or Cotija, if available)
piquin powder or ground chilli powder

1. Preheat the grill (broiler) to maximum and line an roasting tray (pan)
with tin (aluminum) foil.
2. Trim the base of each corn cob and place on the prepared tray. Grill for
20–30 minutes, turning often, until well charred on all sides. Set aside
until cool enough to handle.
3. To detach the corn kernels, stand each corn cob on its trimmed base and
run a knife down the cob, as close to the core as possible. Set aside.
4. Place the corn cob cores in a medium-sized saucepan, cover with the
water and bring to a boil over a high heat. Add the onion, chilli, coriander
and bay leaves. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for about
45 minutes, or until reduced by two thirds.
5. When the stock is ready, heat the Mojo de Ajo and oil in a medium-sized
frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat until sizzling. Add the corn
kernels and stir-fry for 5 minutes. Add 150 ml (5 fl oz/scant ⅔ cup) of the
stock, along with the oregano and salt. Stir-fry for another 5 minutes, or
until most of the stock has been absorbed and the corn is glossy.
6. Divide the mixture between four bowls, then top each bowl with
mayonnaise, cheese and a pinch of piquin or chilli powder.
Queso Fundido with Rajas and Chorizo
It took me a long time to come up with the perfect combination of
cheeses for this queso fundido. I wanted to use some of the
wonderful cheese produced in the British Isles while still keeping
the stringy, creamy texture of the classic Mexican queso fundido. I
am happy with the result, and the introduction of Coolea cheese, an
Irish Gouda-style cheese produced in the county of Cork, with a
sweet, almost caramel-like flavour. Make sure you have plenty of
totopos and enjoy the queso fundido at its best: hot and bubbly, just
out of the oven.
SERVES 4–6

190 g (6¾ oz) Cheddar cheese, grated

190 g (6¾ oz) Coolea cheese, grated
250 g (9 oz) Monterey Jack cheese, grated
1 tablespoon oil
1 poblano chilli or 60 g (2 oz) padrón peppers, trimmed, deseeded and
cut into thin strips
1 chorizo, casing removed, crumbled
Totopos, to serve

1. Preheat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/375°F/gas mark 5.

2. Place all the cheeses in a bowl and mix together gently without
compressing until combined. Place in a shallow ovenproof dish and bake
for about 20 minutes until all the cheeses have melted and the top is
turning golden.
3. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a small frying pan (skillet) over a medium to
high heat. Add the strips of poblano chilli or Padrón pepper and fry for
about 5 minutes until soft. Set aside and cover to keep warm. In the same
 frying pan, fry the chorizo crumbs for 5 minutes until crispy. Set aside
and keep warm.
4. When the cheese is ready, remove it from the oven and arrange the
chorizo crumbs and poblano strips on top. Serve straight away, with
plenty of totopos.
Padrón Rajas con Crema
This is one of the most iconic vegetable guisados in Mexican
cooking, and a must in any legitimate taquiza. It’s traditionally
prepared with poblano chillies, but these can be really hard to get
hold of in the UK, so I looked for an alternative and found that
Padrón peppers worked best. It is a creamy unctuous filling for
tacos and pasties.
SERVES 4

1 large sweetcorn cob, or 2 small ones

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
30 g (1 oz) Mojo de Ajo
100 g (3½ oz) Onion Sofrito
⅛ teaspoon Mexican oregano
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
260 g (9¼ oz) Padrón peppers, halved and stalks removed (see Tip)
200 g (7 oz) Crema
tortillas, to serve

1. To easily remove the husk from the corn cob(s), slice off the stem end,
then pull off the husks. To detach the kernels, stand the corn cob on its
cut side and run a knife down along the cob, as close as possible to the
core. You will need 220 g (7¾ oz) kernels.
2. Heat the oil in a sauté pan over a medium heat. Add the mojo de ajo and
fry until hot, making sure it does not burn. Add the sofrito and cook for a
further couple of minutes. Now add the corn kernels, oregano, salt and
black pepper and cook for about 5 minutes until the corn kernels are
tender. Add the Padrón peppers and cook for a further 5 minutes until
they are soft, but not so long that they completely collapse.
3. In a separate non-stick frying pan (skillet), reheat the tortillas.
4. Add the crema to the corn and pepper mixture and cook for 1 minute, just
enough to warm it up, stirring to coat the vegetables. Taste and adjust the
seasoning, then serve with the warm tortillas.

Padrón peppers are quite mild – except for the odd one – so
TIP:
keep the seeds.
Shiitake Mushroom Sopes
Sopes are one of the most classic dishes of the antojitos Mexicanos
repertoire. They are made out of corn masa and pinched at the
edges to create a raised border to contain the filling. My favourite
place for sopes in Mexico City is Sopes de la Nueve, with a
countless number of options to top your sopes – octopus, short rib,
spicy cecina, the list goes on. They are filling, tasty and cheap. It
started as a small shop front and became so successful that they
went from serving to just a handful of customers at a time to many
hundreds.
MAKES 12

½ quantity corn masa

15 g (½ oz) grated Cotija or Pecorino cheese, to garnish

FOR THE TOPPINGS

250 g (9 oz) Avocado Black Bean Refritos
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tablespoon grapeseed or vegetable oil
100 g (3½ oz) Onion Sofrito
300 g (10 oz) shiitake mushrooms
6 tablespoons Guajillo Adobo
¾ teaspoon salt
10 g (¼ oz) fresh flat-leaf parsley

1. Prepare the corn masa recipe and leave to rest for 30 minutes. Form the
mixture into 20-g (¾-oz) balls and roll them in your hand until smooth.
Using a tortilla press, flatten each one into an 8-cm (3¼-in) disc about
0.5 cm (¼ in) thick. Heat a comal or heavy non-stick frying pan (skillet)
over a medium heat, and cook the sopes for about a minute on each side.
They should be slightly undercooked. Remove from the pan and, while
 they are still warm but cool enough to handle, pinch the sides between
your thumb and index finger to form little pies with raised edges.
2. When the sopes are ready, prepare the topping.
3. Place the black bean refritos in a small saucepan over a low heat and
reheat for 10 minutes. Add a little water if the mixture becomes too dry.
4. Meanwhile, in a medium-sized frying pan over a medium heat, fry the
garlic in the oil for 1 minute, making sure it doesn’t burn. Add the onion
sofrito and cook for a further 5 minutes until slightly coloured. Add the
shiitake mushrooms and cook for 3 minutes until softened. Now add the
adobo and cook for a couple more minutes, stirring constantly and
making sure the mushrooms are well coated. Finish with the salt and
parsley and keep warm.
5. Reheat the sopes in the comal or frying pan over a medium heat for 30
seconds on each side. Place on a serving platter, then divide the beans
between the sopes. Top with the mushroom mix and garnish with Cotija
or Pecorino. Serve warm.
Crab Tostadas
In Coyoacán in Mexico City, my local market has become famous
for (among other things) a tostadas stand which has expanded and
become hugely popular. The stand offers a wide variety of tostadas:
chicken tinga, prawn (shrimp) cocktail, or pata (cow’s hooves),
which is one of my favourites.
In the UK, Cornwall is well known for the exceptional quality of
its seafood, especially crab. The region is one of our favourite
summer holiday destinations thanks to its beautiful landscape and
beaches, as well as its culinary specialities. To pay tribute to this
beautiful seafood, I like to pair it with the simple, raw freshness of
a jalapeño and lime mayonnaise and serve with crispy tostadas and
avocados. You don’t need anything else: just delicious produce on a
tostada. From Coyoacán to Cornwall.
SERVES 4

8 corn tortillas (12 cm/4½ in in diameter), shop-bought or homemade

2 teaspoons grapeseed or vegetable oil
250 g (9 oz) crab meat, mixed white and brown
1 large avocado, peeled, stoned and thinly sliced
salt flakes
coriander (cilantro) leaves and lime wedges, to garnish

FOR THE JALAPEÑO AND LIME MAYONNAISE

2 jalapeños, trimmed and finely chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
10 g (¼ oz) fresh coriander (cilantro)
14 mint leaves
100 g (3½ oz/scant ½ cup) mayonnaise
2 teaspoons lime juice
1. Preheat the oven to 170°C/150°C fan/340°F/gas mark 3½ and set a wire
rack over a baking tray (pan) lined with baking parchment.
2. To make the mayonnaise, place the chopped chillies, garlic, coriander
and mint in a molcajete or small blender. Add a pinch of salt and crush or
blend until reduced to a purée. Incorporate the chilli and herb purée into
the mayonnaise, then stir in in the lime juice and taste for seasoning. Set
aside.
3. To make the tostadas, lightly coat both sides of the tortillas with the oil.
Arrange the tortillas on the prepared wire rack and bake for 20–30
minutes, or until crispy, turning halfway through. Sprinkle with salt
flakes.
4. Place the tostadas, crab, avocado, jalapeño mayonnaise, coriander leaves
and lime wedges on a serving platter and let your guests build their own
tostadas: first a spread of mayonnaise, then a few avocado slices,
followed by some crab meat, coriander leaves and a squeeze of lime.
Scallops Aguachile Verde Tostadas
In the West Pacific state of Sinaloa, scallops and prawns (shrimp)
are so fresh and so sweet that they are often enjoyed raw, drizzled
with a sharp chilli-infused citrus marinade called aguachile. You
can lay the drizzled scallops on a platter, surrounded by garnishes
and tostadas and let your guests build their own.
MAKES 6

6 corn tortillas
1–2 teaspoons oil
6–8 sushi-grade king scallops
6 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 avocado, peeled, stoned and finely sliced
Cebolla Morada
coriander (cilantro) leaves, to garnish

FOR THE AGUACHILE MARINADE

80 g (3 oz) serrano or jalapeño chillies
20 g (¾ oz) cucumber, roughly chopped
10 g (½ oz) ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 garlic clove, peeled
50 ml (2 fl oz/3½ tablespoons) orange juice
50 ml (2 fl oz/3½ tablespoons) lemon juice
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon fish sauce

1. Begin by making the marinade. Place all the marinade ingredients in a

blender and mix at high speed until completely smooth. Strain through a
sieve (fine mesh strainer). Taste to check the seasoning and adjust
accordingly. Set aside.
2. Preheat the oven to 170°C/150°C fan/340°F/gas mark 3½.
3. To make the tostadas, lightly coat both side of the tortillas with oil. Place
on a metal rack over a baking tray (pan) and arrange the tortillas on top.
Bake for 20–30 minutes, or until crispy, turning them halfway through.
4. Meanwhile, slice the scallops into very thin coins.
5. When everything is ready, place the tostadas on serving plates and thinly
spread 1 tablespoon of mayonnaise over each one. Dip the scallop coins
in the marinade and arrange on top of the mayonnaise, fanning them out.
Garnish with the pickled onions and coriander leaves. Drizzle some of
the remaining marinade over the top and serve immediately.
Tamarind Chicken Wings
Everyone loves chicken wings, and they make the perfect snack. In
this recipe, the baking powder absorbs the chicken fat as they cook,
making the wings extra crispy without the need for deep-frying.
The tamarind marinade gives the wings a real sweet-and-sour tang
with a hint of citrus, perfect to accompany the IPA of your choice
for a pleasant contrast of flavours.
SERVES 4–6

2 tablespoons baking powder

1½ teaspoons salt flakes
¾ teaspoon Mexican oregano
1½ teaspoons crushed fennel seeds
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) chicken wings

FOR THE TAMARIND ADOBO

200 g (7 oz) tamarind pulp, with seeds
200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) orange juice
50 ml (2 fl oz/3½ tablespoons) lime juice
50 g (2 oz/3 tablespoons) honey
2 tablespoons soft light brown sugar

TO SERVE (OPTIONAL)
popcorn
tajin powder
Ancho Dry Rub

1. Preheat the oven to 150°C/130°C fan/300°F/gas mark 2. Line a roasting

tray (pan) with baking parchment.
2. To prepare the tamarind adobo, place the tamarind pulp and orange juice
in a bowl and mix together: it is easiest to do this with your fingers. To
remove the seeds, press the mixture through a sieve (fine mesh strainer).
 Add the lime juice directly to the sieve and continue to press and scrape.
Discard the seeds and mix the honey and brown sugar into the tamarind
adobo. Set aside.
3. In a large bowl, mix together the baking powder, salt, oregano and fennel
seeds. Add the chicken wings and toss until they are well coated.
4. Spread out the wings on the prepared roasting tray and place in the oven
for 30 minutes, then increase the oven temperature to 210°C/190°C
fan/410°F/gas mark 6½ and bake for another 30 minutes, turning the
wings half way through.
5. Reduce the oven temperature to 190°C/170°C fan/375°F/gas mark 5.
Remove the tray from the oven and generously brush the wings on all
sides with the tamarind adobo. Return to the oven for 5 minutes, then
serve the wings hot. I like to serve them over a bowl of popcorn. Add an
extra layer of flavour with a sprinkle of tajin powder or ancho rub, if you
like. Great for a lazy Sunday afternoon snack.
Chicken Tinga Pasties
Tinga is a famous preparation of pulled or shredded meat in a
lightly smoked tomato sauce. While usually associated with
chicken, the tinga sauce can also be mixed with beef, or with
vegetables for a vegetarian alternative (try shiitake mushrooms or
even grated carrot). You can enjoy this tinga as a topping for tacos,
sopes or tostadas, but I particularly like it as a filling for pasties.
Pasties are both British and Mexican. We pronounce them pastes
– and obviously adapted the fillings. Cornish miners went to
Mexico in the early 19th century to work in the mines: specifically
to Real del Monte, a beautiful small town in the state of Hidalgo,
which surrounds Mexico City. It was thanks to these Cornish
miners that football was introduced to Mexico, and the country’s
first football club – Pachuca Athletic Club – was founded. In 2007,
the Mexican Embassy in the UK named the silver mining
settlements of Pachuca and Real del Monte ‘Little Cornwall’, and
the Cornish towns of Camborne and Redruth were officially
twinned with Pachuca and Real del Monte respectively.
MAKES 9

FOR THE PASTRY

375 g (13¼ oz/scant 3 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour
¾ teaspoon salt
120 g (4 oz) butter, at room temperature
1 small egg, plus 1 egg for brushing
150 ml (5 fl oz/scant ⅔ cup) IPA beer, at room temperature

FOR THE STOCK

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) chicken thighs
1.2 litres (40 fl oz/4¾ cups) water
½ small onion
1 carrot
2 cm (¾ in) piece of fresh ginger root
1 garlic clove
a few sprigs of coriander (cilantro)
1 bay leaf

FOR THE TINGA SAUCE

400 g (14 oz) tomatoes

2 garlic cloves, peeled
1 onion, peeled
1 tablespoon grapeseed or vegetable oil
25 g (1 oz) Chipotle en Adobo Purée
1 large bay leaf
1 star anise
½ teaspoon Mexican oregano
½ teaspoon avocado leaf powder
¾ teaspoon salt

1. Begin by making the pastry. Place the flour and ½ teaspoon of salt in a
large bowl and whisk briefly to combine. Add the butter and rub it into
the flour with your fingers. Add the egg and the IPA, a little at a time,
working the mixture between each addition until the pastry comes
together. The dough should be flexible and malleable. Wrap it in cling
film (plastic wrap) and place in the refrigerator for 1 hour. If you wish,
you can prepare it in advance and leave it in the refrigerator overnight, or
even freeze it until needed.
2. Place all the stock ingredients in a large saucepan over a low heat. Bring
to a simmer and cook for 40 minutes, then remove the chicken thighs
from the stock and leave to cool, covered.
3. To make the tinga sauce, place the tomatoes and garlic in a comal or a
heavy non-stick frying pan (skillet) over a medium to high heat and roast
for 25–30 minutes until charred and soft. Alternatively, you can roast the
vegetables in an oven preheated to 200°C/180°C fan/400°F/gas mark 6
 for 30–40 minutes. They will not char as much, but they should still be
roasted and soft. Remove from the comal or oven and allow to cool.
4. Place the roasted tomatoes, roasted garlic and raw onion in a blender with
300 ml (10 fl oz/1¼ cups) of the chicken stock. Blend until smooth.
5. Heat the oil in a medium-sized saucepan over a medium heat. Add the
blended sauce and cook for 7–8 minutes to concentrate the flavours. Add
the chipotle en adobo purée, bay leaf, star anise, oregano and avocado
leaf powder. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15–20 minutes until
reduced and thickened. You should have about 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups)
of sauce. Add the salt, taste and adjust seasoning. Pass the sauce through
a sieve (fine mesh strainer) and leave to cool.
6. Meanwhile, remove the skin from the chicken thighs and discard, then
pull the meat off the bones. Place the pulled chicken meat in a bowl and
stir in half the tinga sauce (see Tip). Taste and adjust the seasoning, then
set aside.
7. Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/350°F/gas mark 4 and line two
baking trays (pans) with parchment paper. Lightly whisk the remaining
egg with ¼ teaspoon salt.
8. Divide the dough into 9 portions of 50 g (2 oz) each. Roll each portion
into a slightly elongated disc measuring 12 x 15 cm (4½ x 6 in) and about
0.5cm (¼ in) thick. Place about 50 g (2 oz) of chicken tinga filling in the
centre. Brush a bit of egg around the edge and fold the pastry over.
Lightly press with your fingers to seal the edges and crimp with a fork to
finish. Repeat for the other pasties.
9. Arrange the pasties on the prepared baking trays and brush the top of
each pasty with the egg wash mixture. Bake for 20–25 minutes until
golden brown, switching the trays around halfway through baking. Serve
warm.

TIP:You will only need half of the sauce, but you can freeze the
other half for a second batch.
arly evening in Mexico City is a magical time of the day. The
sunset permeates most of the city, turning the sky a brilliant red,

E which is then reflected on the surrounding mountains, making

for a truly breath-taking sight.
This is the time groups of friends head out for beers, cocktails or
start the evening with a glass of wine. With regions like Baja
California having similar terroir and climate to California, they
produce some exceptional wines. Many are still only found in
Mexico and are not available for export so when in Mexico I love
to try wines we still can’t source in London.
While their numbers have dwindled, cantinas are still very much
part of the city’s social fabric. When I was young I used to hear
from my father how he would meet friends in a cantina for drinks,
where snacks like a small caldo de camarón or chistorra sausage
were bought to you with each drink you ordered. This was a space
where men went to talk and drink, not the realm of children, and
until 1982 even women were prohibited from entering.
I often imagined what they were like and couldn’t wait for the
chance to go. As is often the case once you grow up the allure was
not so great once going was an option, and instead friends and I
would go for drinks at local bars. But going to a cantina in Mexico
for many is akin to going to a pub for the English or a café for the
French.
On a recent trip to Mexico City we visited La Opera, where the
legendary Mexican revolutionary Pancho Villa was said to have
fired his gun in to the ceiling in 1910. My wife Natalie and I sat at
the bar drinking tequila and mezcal respectively, while our baby
daughter Cecilia slept. A fellow guest asked to take a photo,
commenting on how society had evolved when as recently as the
1980s that wouldn’t have been possible.
Drinks at cantinas are simple, but the accompanying food and
the fact that they are part of the fabric of the city means I visit one
every time I am in Mexico. In the early 20th century there were
over a thousand in the capital and while their numbers have
diminished significantly for many they are still a place to while
away the hours.
For me early evening is when I like to make cocktails, to
welcome friends who come to visit, before having dinner. Hand
someone a hibiscus margarita or a mezcal sour and chances are if
they came through the door after a tough day, within a few sips
they will be feeling a lot better.
Seafood Michelada
SERVES 2

1 teaspoon oil
1 teaspoon Guajillo Adobo
6 cooked king prawns (shrimp)
ice
200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) Sangrita, chilled
200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) Mexican amber beer, chilled
celery leaves, to garnish

1. Heat the oil in a small frying pan (skillet) over a low heat. Add the
adobo, followed by the prawns. Cook for 30 seconds on each side – the
prawns should be well coated with adobo. Remove from the heat and
thread the prawns on to 2 cocktail sticks (toothpicks), 3 prawns per stick.
2. Half-fill 2 glasses with ice. Divide the sangrita between them, then top up
each glass with 100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) beer. Serve, garnished with
celery leaves and a skewer of guajillo-spiced prawns.
Hibiscus Margarita
SERVES 1

ice
40 ml (1¼ fl oz) Ocho blanco tequila
30 ml (1 fl oz) Cointreau
25 ml (¾ fl oz) Hibiscus Cordial
25 ml (¾ fl oz) freshly squeezed lime juice
slice of lime, to garnish

FOR THE SUGARED RIM

1 tablespoon Hibiscus Cordial
2 teaspoons caster (superfine) sugar

1. To create a sugared rim for the cocktail glass, pour the hibiscus syrup on
to a small plate and the caster sugar on to a second small plate. Dip the
rim of a margarita glass into the syrup and then into the sugar, rolling the
glass around to evenly coat the rim. Set aside.
2. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice and add the tequila, Cointreau, hibiscus
syrup and lime juice. Shake well and strain into the prepared glass. Serve
garnished with a slice of lime.
Sangrita
MAKES 1.2 LITRES (40 FL OZ/4¾ CUPS)
1 litre (34 fl oz/4 cups) tomato juice
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
125 ml (4¼ fl oz/½ cup) orange juice
50 ml (1¾ fl oz/3 tablespoons) Valentina Mexican chilli sauce
25 ml (¾ fl oz/5 teaspoons) Tabasco

1. Place all the ingredients in a blender and blend to combine. Transfer to a

jug (pitcher) and keep in the refrigerator until ready to use. It will keep
for 5 days.
Cubana
SERVES 1

ice
50 ml (1¾ fl oz/3 tablespoons) Sangrita
25 ml (¾ fl oz) lime juice
125 ml (4¼ fl oz/½ cup) Mexican amber beer, chilled

1. Half-fill a glass with ice. Add the sangrita and lime juice, then top up
with beer and serve.
Mezcal Sour
SERVES 1

ice
35 ml (1¼ fl oz) Vetusto Mezcal Espadin
15 ml (1 tablespoon) amaretto
10 ml (2 teaspoons) sugar syrup
10 ml (2 teaspoons) lemon or lime juice
20 ml (1½ tablespoons) aquafaba (the liquid from a tin of
chickpeas/garbanzos)
jalapeño chilli slices, to garnish

1. Fill your cocktail shaker with ice. Add the mezcal, amaretto, sugar syrup,
lime juice and aquafaba and shake well. Strain into a lowball glass filled
with ice and serve, garnished with 2 jalapeño slices.
Paloma
SERVES 1

ice
30 ml (1 fl oz) Don Julio Blanco tequila
25 ml (¾ fl oz) Campari
20 ml (1½ tablespoons) lime juice
125 ml (4¼ fl oz/½ cup) grapefruit tonic water
grapefruit wedge, to garnish

1. Fill a highball glass with ice, then add the tequila, Campari and lime
juice. Top up with grapefruit tonic water and serve, garnished with a
grapefruit wedge.
Bee’s Knees
SERVES 1

ice
35 ml (1¼ fl oz) Cazcabel honey tequila
50 ml (1¾ fl oz/3 tablespoons) Tepache
15 ml (1 tablespoon) freshly squeezed lime juice
orange slice, to garnish

1. Fill a lowball glass with ice, then add the tequila, Tepache and lime juice.
Stir and serve, garnished with an orange slice.
Withfewlunch the main meal of the day, dinner for many can be a
tacos late at night after a long working day or a time to
gather at home with family for dinner parties for special
celebrations. Whether the speciality is carnitas, al carbón or
alpastor, every family in Mexico City has their favourite taqueria
for dinner, and they will often become life-long patron of it for
generations.
I remember countless visits for tacos al pastor to El Tizoncito in
Condesa neighbourhood. It was a treat, but also a show that I found
myself mesmerised by. I would watch the taquero carving off thin
slices of meat from the trompo, topped off by a piece of grilled
pineapple, which he would expertly slice, and it which would fly
from the top of the trompo and land gracefully on the taco, ready to
be topped with chopped coriander and onion. The grand finale was
the scoop of amazing salsa, to create the perfect taco. The beautiful
dance of the taco making process was repeated time and time again,
with graceful movements that spoke of repetition and respect for the
trade. To ensure your tacos did not get cold you would order tacos
as you went, each coming with a little square of paper, which you
would pile up on your plate as you ate. At the end of the meal you
would walk to the cashier and hand them your plate and were
charged based on how many squares of paper you had racked up.
The simplicity and trust of the system never failed.
It was probably here where I started to understand the importance
of hospitality – the ambiance, the food, the ritual – and I loved it.
The taquero welcoming you, the taquero serving you and the
taquero inviting you to come back soon when leaving. All of this
added to the joy of the experience. Equally I remember many a time
as a child falling asleep to the sound of dinner parties at my
grandparents home, complete with live music and countless
relatives. Dancing, singing and a lot of food was always present and
festivities went late in to the night. The supply of food was never
ending and there was always plenty left over for the next days tacos
when the left overs tasted even better than the night before.
 When out for dinner in Mexico City I absolutely love going to the
beautiful restaurant of Elena Reygadas, Rosetta. The restaurant is
situated in an old house in the historic Roma neighbourhood, where
the leafy streets could be mistaken for Barcelona. Elena serves her
expertly prepared dishes, mixing Italian techniques with the best of
Mexican ingredients. Evenings out in Mexico City don’t get much
better than sitting on the restaurant’s patio, enjoying Mexican wine
and wonderful food.
Prawns al Guajillo
The sauce is a very simple mix of Guajillo Adobo and butter with a
touch of garlic. For this dish, make sure you source the best and
juiciest prawns. The sauce will enhance their natural sweetness.
Grilling the lime halves will add another layer of flavour, but it isn’t
essential.
SERVES 4

4 tablespoons oil
160 g (5¾ oz) butter
8 garlic cloves, chopped
200 g (7 oz) Guajillo Adobo
12 best-quality large king prawns (shrimp), whole

TO SERVE
lemon halves, grilled (broiled) if possible
freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley

1. Heat 2 large frying pans (skillets) over a low to medium heat. Add 2
tablespoons oil and a quarter of the butter to each pan. When the butter is
melted and foamy, divide the garlic between the 2 pans and cook for 30
seconds until just golden, being careful not to let it burn.
2. Add half the Guajillo Adobo to each pan and cook for a couple of minutes
until hot. Then add 6 prawns to each pan and cook for 5–8 minutes
depending on the size, turning them halfway through. Add the final two
quarters of the butter to each pan and let it melt, stirring the sauce and
prawns constantly.
3. Alternatively, if you can only use one frying pan, cook in batches, keeping
the first batch warm while you cook the second.
4. Arrange the prawns on a platter and serve, garnished with grilled lemon
halves and parsley.
Salmon en Mole de Frutas
This is my interpretation of a fruity mole that I tried once in a fonda.
I have never had it since, I never asked for the recipe, and I didn’t
manage to speak to the mayora, but I have never forgotten it and
decided to recreate it from memory here. This mole is rich in nuts
and buttered caramelised fruits. Although I ate it served with pork
ribs, I have found it is the ideal accompaniment for fish, as it gently
enhances it without overpowering. It is equally delicious with pork
or prawns (shrimp). I like to blend half the fruits into the mole and
use the other half as a garnish to bring texture and tang. You will
only need half of the mole for this dish (see Tip), but the other half
can be frozen. Curing the salmon 30 minutes before grilling
(broiling) will greatly improve its flavour and texture.
SERVES 4

4 salmon fillets, about 200 g (7 oz) each

2 tablespoons salt flakes
1 teaspoon sugar
1 large garlic clove, grated
about 3 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil
cooked quinoa, to serve

FOR THE FRUIT MOLE

1½ guajillo chillies, trimmed and deseeded
1½ ancho chillies, trimmed and deseeded
75 g (2½ oz) almonds
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
25 g (1 oz) peanuts
3 tomatoes
1 onion, quartered
4 garlic cloves, peeled
2 tablespoons butter
½ fully ripe plantain, sliced
1 small apple, peeled and diced
1 large pear, peeled and diced
¼ pineapple, peeled and diced
150 g (5 oz) raisins
3 bay leaves
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1. To make the mole, toast the chillies in a comal or a heavy non-stick frying
pan (skillet) over a medium to high heat until they are soft and pliable.
Place the cooked chillies in a bowl and cover with 250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup)
of boiling water. Leave to soak for 1 hour.
2. Toast the almonds in the comal or frying pan until golden brown. Set aside
to cool, then toast the sesame seeds, followed by the peanuts. Roughly
chop the almonds and peanuts.
3. Place the tomatoes, onion and garlic in the comal over a medium to high
heat and roast for 25–30 minutes until charred and soft. Alternatively, you
can roast the vegetables in an oven preheated to 200°C/180°C
fan/400°F/gas mark 6 for 30–40 minutes. Remove from the comal or oven
and allow to cool. I like to deglaze the comal with 50 ml (1¾ fl oz/3
tablespoons) of water for maximum smoky flavour.
4. Melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat, then fry the plantain
for 6–7 minutes until caramelised. Remove from the heat and set aside. In
the same frying pan, fry the apple, pear and pineapple for 5–6 minutes
until caramelised and soft. Set aside. Finally, pan-fry the raisins for a
couple of minutes, until puffed. Set aside.
5. At this stage, you can remove the salmon fillets from the refrigerator. Mix
together the salt flakes, sugar and garlic and massage this mixture all over
the fillets, including the skin. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and set
aside at room temperature while you finish preparing the mole.
6. Place the roasted tomatoes, onion and garlic in a blender, along with the
smoky comal juices. Add the chillies and their soaking water, and blend
 until smooth. Add half the nuts, plantain, apple, pear, pineapple and
raisins, plus 150 ml (5 fl oz/scant ⅔ cup) of water and blend again. If your
blender is not big enough, do it in batches.
7. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large saucepan over a low heat and fry
the bay leaves and cinnamon for 1 minute. Add the mole and cook over a
low–medium heat for 10–15 minutes until it thickens but remains
pourable. Keep warm.
8. Preheat the grill (broiler) to medium high. Line a roasting tray (pan) with
tin (aluminum) foil and lightly brush with the remaining oil. Arrange the
salmon pieces on the tray, skin-side up, and grill for 10–15 minutes,
depending on the thickness. They should be just cooked, with a slight
translucence in the centre.
9. Arrange the salmon fillets on serving plates with the quinoa and spoon a
generous ladle of mole over each one. Garnish with the remaining nuts
and fruits. Serve with some quinoa on the side.

You will have enough mole for a second batch, but you will
TIP:
need to toast and fry more nuts and fruits for the garnish.
Mackerel a la Talla
Pescado a la talla is a speciality from the Pacific coast. It is a
butterflied fish, spread with a chilli marinade, then grilled. Although
red snapper is usually the fish of choice, any fish that is suitable for
grilling can be used. The iconic restaurant Contramar in Mexico
City has made pescado a la talla their signature dish, using two
different adobos: a red chilli base and a green herby one. This is my
take on the recipe, using mackerel from the British coast.
SERVES 4

4 large mackerel, gutted and butterflied (ask your fishmonger to

prepare them)
1 tablespoon grapeseed or vegetable oil

FOR THE GREEN MARINADE

75 g (2½ oz) flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
25 g (1 oz) Thai basil, roughly chopped
45 g (1½ oz) garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
4 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons hemp oil
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon Mexican oregano
⅛ teaspoon ground white pepper

FOR THE RED MARINADE

120 g (4 oz) Guajillo Adobo

TO SERVE
2 limes
Cebolla Morada
Arroz a la Mexicana
Refried Beans
tortillas, shop-bought or homemade
salt flakes

1. Preheat the grill (broiler) to maximum and line a roasting tray (pan) with
tin (aluminum) foil.
2. Place all the ingredients for the green marinade in a food processor and
process until well blended but still retaining some texture. Taste and adjust
seasoning.
3. Lightly brush the prepared roasting tray with oil. Place the butterflied
mackerel fillets on the tray. On each butterflied mackerel, spread one fillet
with a quarter of the green marinade, and the other fillet with a quarter of
the guajillo adobo, so that each mackerel has one green and one red fillet.
4. Place under the grill for 8–10 minutes, or until the mackerel is cooked.
You might need to work in batches.
5. Arrange the cooked mackerel on a serving platter with lime wedges.
Sprinkle with salt flakes and serve with the Cebolla Morada, rice, beans
and warm tortillas on the side.
Squid in Creamy Chipotle Sauce
My mum usually prepares calamares (squid) in mojo de ajo with
finely sliced guajillo chilli and fresh parsley. They are delicious and
simple to prepare. I wanted to make this dish at home once, but I
only had chipotle adobo rather than guajillo. I decided to add some
creaminess by using leftover Pecorino cheese and cream. The
result? A creamy, smoky, umami dish, and Natalie’s favourite non-
traditional recipe – one that I came up with completely by accident.
SERVES 4

850 g (1 lb 14 oz) squid (about 500 g/1 lb 2 oz once cleaned and

prepared)
40 g (1½ oz) butter
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4–5 tablespoons Chipotle en Adobo Purée
250 g (9 oz) Crema
100 g (3½ oz) Pecorino cheese, grated

TO SERVE
cooked quinoa
Pico de Gallo

1. To prepare the squid, detach the tentacles from the body by gently pulling
them away, removing the entrails that are attached to the tentacles. Cut off
the tentacles right below the eyes and remove the beak from the centre.
Discard the entrails and beak. Pull on the skin that covers the body to
remove it, and cut off the two fins. Cut the body into rings. Wash the
rings, fins and tentacles. Dry them well – this will help them fry better.
2. Melt the butter in a large frying pan (skillet) over a low heat and slowly
cook the garlic for 2–3 minutes. Increase the heat to medium, then add the
squid and stir-fry for 3–4 minutes. Add the Chipotle en Adobo Purée and
cook for another minute. Reduce the heat to low once more and add the
 cream and cheese. Let it simmer for a couple of minutes, stirring
constantly, until the cheese has melted.
3. Serve at once with quinoa and Pico de Gallo on the side. I also like to
serve a fresh baguette or sourdough loaf for dipping in the creamy sauce.
Enjoy!

TIP: I like to make this recipe with the small squid called chipirones,
as I find them more tender. The sauce is also delicious with prawns
if you want to substitute.
Duck Carnitas with Tomatillo Ketchup
Carnitas are a classic from the state of Michoacán, whose cooks are
famous for their big copper pots full of lard and pork simmering to
make a confit. This recipe is a fusion of French and Mexican
cooking. I really like duck confit because the meat is incredibly
tasty and melts in the mouth. To cut the fattiness of the confit, I
serve it here with a sweet and grassy tomatillo ketchup –
surprisingly, this recipe works better with tinned tomatillos rather
than fresh. To make the preparation of this dish easier, all the
elements can be cooked in advance.
SERVES 4

FOR THE CONFIT DUCK LEGS

8 tablespoons salt flakes
4 duck legs
1 orange
35 g (1¼ oz) garlic cloves, peeled
6 sprigs of thyme
4 bay leaves
750 g (1 lb 10 oz) goose or duck fat, melted
1½ tablespoons soft light brown sugar
½ teaspoon salt

FOR THE TOMATILLO KETCHUP

2 tablespoons oil
3 apples, peeled, cored and sliced
790 g (1 lb 12 oz) tinned tomatillos, drained
1 cinnamon stick
60 g (2 oz/¼ cup) sugar
10 mint leaves
½ jalapeño chilli, chopped
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
FOR THE GARNISH
1 red onion
30 g (1 oz) coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
15 g (½ oz) mint, roughly chopped
salt

1. Begin by preparing the duck legs. Sprinkle 4 tablespoons of the salt flakes
over the bottom of a non-reactive container large enough to hold the legs
in a single layer. Place the legs on top of the salt, skin side-up, pressing
them down into the salt. Sprinkle the remaining salt flakes over the legs,
pressing the salt into the skin. Cover and refrigerate for 3 hours.
2. After 3 hours, remove the legs from the salt, rinse and dry well. Place
them in a sauté pan: they should fit it tightly in a single layer.
3. With a vegetable peeler, remove 8 long strips of zest from the orange and
add them to the pan. Squeeze the orange and add the juice, then add the
garlic, thyme sprigs and bay leaves. Cover with the melted goose fat. The
legs should be completely immersed. Slowly bring to a bare simmer.
Slow-cook for 2½ hours, until the meat falls easily from the bone.
4. Remove the orange zest strips from the fat and place in a small bowl. Add
the soft brown sugar, salt and 4 teaspoons of the fat from the pan. Use a
fork to crush into a paste and set aside. Let the legs cool in the fat. The
confit will keep in its fat in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
5. To make the tomatillo ketchup, heat the oil in a frying pan (skillet) over a
medium heat. Add the apple slices and fry for 5 minutes until soft and
caramelised. Meanwhile, place the drained tomatillos in a saucepan and
cover with boiling water. Add the cinnamon stick and simmer for 15
minutes.
6. Drain the tomatillos and place in a blender, along with the apples. Add the
sugar and blend until smooth, then pour into a saucepan and reduce the
mixture over a low heat for 10 minutes until slightly thickened. Transfer
back to the blender. Add the mint leaves, jalapeño and rice vinegar. Blend
until smooth and let cool.
7. Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/400°F/gas mark 6. Remove the
confit duck legs from the fat and place on a roasting tray (pan) lined with
tin (aluminum) foil.
8. Spread the orange zest paste over the duck legs and bake for 15–20
minutes until golden and crisp.
9. Meanwhile, thinly slice the red onion and place in a bowl of salted water.
When you are ready to serve, drain the onion and mix it in a bowl with the
coriander and mint. Serve the duck legs with a few tablespoons of ketchup
and a small handful of the garnish.
Chiles Rellenos
Ancho chillies are dried poblano chillies, and this dish is all about
enjoying both the fresh chilli and its dried version. You can serve
these stuffed chillies on a bed of Caldillo de Jitomate, or simply
wrapped in a tortilla as a taco, commonly known as tacos placeros.
The state of Puebla offers the best variety, in my opinion, especially
at Hidalgo market. This is one of the most traditional dishes in
Mexican cooking, with a simple Chihuahua or Ranchero cheese
filling being one of the most popular. I grew up seeing my Abuela
Carmela preparing these again and again. I hope you enjoy the
smells of roasting poblano pepper at home as much as I do.
SERVES 4

3 tablespoons brown sugar

1 cinnamon stick
4 large or 8 medium-sized dried ancho chillies
4 large or 8 medium-sized poblano chillies
2–3 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil
½ quantity Caldillo de Jitomate
warm tortillas, shop-bought or homemade, to serve

FOR THE FILLING

1 small onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil
1 potato, peeled and diced
350 g (12 oz) minced (ground) beef
2 dried avocado leaves
pinch of ground cinnamon
3 ripe tomatoes, blended
1 tablespoon butter
½ plantain, peeled and diced
65 g (2¼ oz) raisins
20 g (¾ oz) almonds, toasted and chopped
20 g (¾ oz) pine nuts, toasted
¾ teaspoon salt
4 grinds of black pepper

1. Preheat the grill (broiler) to high.

2. Place the sugar and cinnamon stick in a large bowl and pour over 700 ml
(24 fl oz/scant 3 cups) of boiling water. Stir until the sugar has dissolved,
then add the dried chillies. They should be completely submerged, so
place a weight on top, such as a plate or a bowl, if needed. Leave to soak
for 15–30 minutes until the chillies are soft, then remove them from the
liquid and cut a slit down one side of each chilli. Carefully remove the
seeds, leaving the stem intact. Set aside.
3. Place the poblano chillies under the grill and grill for 20–40 minutes,
depending on their size, turning them halfway through. They should be
well charred. Place in a bowl, cover and set aside for about 30 minutes.
The steam from the chillies will be trapped in the bowl, and this will help
to loosen their skin. Once cool enough to handle, remove the skin and, just
as you did with the dried chillies, cut a slit down the side of each one and
remove the seeds, leaving the stem.
4. To prepare the filling, place a large sauté pan over a medium heat and fry
the onion and garlic in the oil for 10–12 minutes until soft. Add the potato
and fry for a further 5 minutes, until coloured. Increase the heat to
medium–high and add the beef, in batches if necessary, cooking for 6–7
minutes until browned. Stir in the avocado leaves and cinnamon and cook
for 1 minute. Add the blended tomatoes and stir well. Bring to a boil, then
reduce the heat to low and simmer gently for 20 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small frying pan (skillet) over a low heat.
Add the plantain and fry for 4–5 minutes. Add the raisins and cook for a
couple of minutes until they are soft and puffed up. Add the plantain and
raisins to the meat mixture, along with the nuts. Add the salt and pepper,
then taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Take off the heat and leave
to cool.
6. Open up the chillies like little pouches and divide the filling between
them. Close them up and flatten them in your hands. Heat the oil in a large
frying pan over a low heat and gently cook the stuffed chillies for 7–8
minutes on each side. Meanwhile, reheat the Caldillo de Jitomate.
7. Serve the chillies on a bed of caldillo, with warm tortillas.
Ancho Rub Pot Chicken
Every cuisine has an iconic roast chicken dish. In our family, this
ancho rub pot chicken is our stress-free Sunday lunch. It comes with
a healthy coleslaw and a big bag of (less healthy) good-quality
crisps. Roasted chickens – pollos rostizados – are normally sold in
Mexico City right next to panaderías, which also sell pickled
chillies, salsa and handmade crisps: comfort food to take away. To
make your own, marinate the chicken overnight in the refrigerator
and prepare the orange dressing in advance – that way, all you have
to do on the day is shred vegetables and open a bag of crisps!
SERVES 4

1 orange
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) whole chicken
20 g (¾ oz) fresh ginger root, peeled
4 garlic cloves, peeled
40 g (1½ oz) Ancho Dry Rub
1 tablespoon olive oil

TO SERVE
a large packet of crisps – or 2!

FOR THE ORANGE COLESLAW DRESSING

6 tablespoons orange juice
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon dark agave syrup
¼ teaspoon Mexican oregano
25 g (1 oz) red onion, thinly sliced

FOR THE COLESLAW

¼ red cabbage
¼ white cabbage
2 carrots, peeled
½ chayote
10 g (¼ oz) coriander (cilantro) leaves

1. To prepare the chicken, juice the orange and transfer the juice to a bowl.
Place the squeezed orange halves inside the chicken cavity. Grate half the
ginger and 2 of the garlic cloves into the orange juice, then place the
remaining ginger and garlic in the chicken cavity (no need to grate them).
2. Stir the ancho rub and olive oil into the mixture in the bowl to create a
thick marinade, a bit thinner than a paste. Spread the marinade over the
chicken and massage it both over and under the skin. Leave to marinate
for at least one hour, or overnight.
3. Preheat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/375°F/gas mark 5.
4. Place the chicken in a heavy casserole dish (Dutch oven) fitted with a lid.
Cover and bake for 1 hour, then reduce the oven temperature to
170°C/150°C fan/340°F/gas mark 3½ and bake for another 20–25
minutes, or until cooked through. To check that the chicken in cooked,
insert a digital thermometer in the thickest part of the leg. It should
register 75°C (167°F). If you don’t have a thermometer, pierce the chicken
where one of the legs joins the body. If the juices run clear, the chicken is
done. If not, cook for an extra 10 minutes and test again. Once cooked,
remove the chicken from the casserole dish and leave to rest for 15
minutes.
5. While the chicken is cooking, prepare the coleslaw. Begin by mixing
together all the dressing ingredients in a bowl. Leave to infuse while you
prepare the vegetables.
6. Thinly slice both cabbages and place in a large bowl. Using a vegetable
peeler, shred the carrot and chayote into thin ribbons and add these to the
bowl too. Pour the dressing over the top and mix gently. Leave to infuse
while the chicken is resting. Taste and adjust seasoning before serving.
7. Carve the chicken and serve with the coleslaw and crisps.
TIP:I like using the leftovers – if any! – the following day to prepare
a chicken torta. Cut a Telera bun and toast it with a little bit of
butter. Spread over some Avocado Black Bean Refritos, Chipotle
Mayonnaise and a bit of coleslaw. Add some shredded chicken and
a few avocado slices. When I was a child, I used to top the chicken
with a few crisps to add some crunchiness, a school trick that was
also allowed at my dinner table (I still occasionally do this!).
Ox Cheek Suadero
Tacos de suadero are an institution in Mexico City. The name
suadero comes from a particularly tasty cut of beef located along
the ribs that becomes meltingly soft when slowly cooked – but it is
by no means the only meat that makes a taco de suadero so
irresistible. Beef tripe, ox tongue, longaniza (the Mexican chorizo)
or pigs’ ears all join the suadero to be cooked into a confit in fat and
cooking juices for hours in a special cooking pot called a choricera.
This ingenious pan has a domed centre which rises above the fat,
allowing you to reheat the tortillas and crispen the meats before
serving.
I tried to keep this recipe simple, using only ox cheeks and
chorizo, but you would make me very happy if you dropped in some
tripe, ox tongue or a few pigs’ ears. Keep the precious cooking fat
to enhance fried eggs, onions, potatoes or vegetables.
SERVES 4–6

850 g (1 lb 14 oz) goose fat

2 ox cheeks (about 1 kg/2 lb 4 oz)
20 g (¾ oz) garlic cloves, peeled
6 sprigs of thyme
4 bay leaves
4 cooking chorizos
6 small cactus leaves in brine, rinsed and soaked in water overnight
8 calçot onions or spring onions (scallions), halved
about 20 tortillas, shop-bought or homemade
salt flakes

TO SERVE
Salsa Verde Cruda
fresh coriander (cilantro)
1 red onion, chopped

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the goose fat in a large frying pan (skillet) over a
medium heat and sear the ox cheeks on all sides for 2–3 minutes. Transfer
to a heavy casserole dish (Dutch oven) over a low heat and cover with the
rest of the goose fat and the garlic, thyme and bay leaves. Bring to a
simmer and cook very gently for 3 hours. Add the chorizo and simmer for
another hour. By now, the cheeks should be falling apart and easy to pull.
2. When the meat is almost ready, preheat the oven to 100°C/80°C
fan/210°F/gas mark ¼. Drain the cactus leaves and pat dry with paper
towels. Cut comb-like strips down the cactus paddles, but don’t cut all the
way. This will help the heat to penetrate the cactus.
3. Place a large non-stick frying pan over a low to medium heat. Add 1
tablespoon of the fat from the casserole dish and cook the calçot onions
and cactus for 5–10 minutes, until well charred and tender. Transfer to an
ovenproof dish and place in the oven to keep warm.
4. While the onions and cactus are cooking, remove the ox cheeks and
chorizo from the fat and place in a bowl. Remove the skin from the
chorizo and shred it with two forks. Shred the ox cheeks in the same
manner.
5. In the same frying pan used for the onions and cactus, fry the chorizo over
a medium heat for a couple of minutes, until a slight crust forms. Transfer
to an ovenproof serving plate and keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the
shredded ox cheeks: fry until crusty, season with salt flakes if needed, then
transfer to the plate to keep warm in the oven.
6. Lightly brush the tortillas with some of the cooking fat from the casserole
dish and, using the same frying pan as before, fry them in batches until
soft and pliable. Wrap them in a clean kitchen towel or baking parchment
to keep warm.
7. When you are ready to serve, arrange the meats, onions and cactus on a
serving plate, and lay out the tortillas, along with the coriander leaves,
chopped onion and salsa verde cruda. Let your guests assemble their own
tacos, layering meat, charred vegetables and a drizzle of salsa over the
top.
Oxtail Mole de Olla
You will see big pots of mole de olla simmering slowly in Mexican
markets. Somewhere between a soup and a stew, it is nourishing and
usually made with cheap cuts of beef and a mixture of vegetables
that almost always includes potatoes and corn. I really like the
flavour oxtail gives to this stew. You can slow-cook the meat ahead
of time and leave it in the refrigerator overnight, then skim the fat
off the top and finish cooking the stew with the vegetables on the
day.
SERVES 4

3 guajillo chillies, trimmed and deseeded

3 pasilla mixe chillies, trimmed and deseeded
250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) boiling water
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
1 onion, chopped
8 garlic cloves, peeled
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) oxtail, chopped
3 tablespoons oil
750 ml (25 fl oz/3 cups) water
2 sweetcorn cobs, each cut into 6 pieces
300 g (10 oz) red potatoes, skin left on, cubed
1 chayote, cubed
120 g (4 oz) green beans, trimmed

1. Place all the chillies in a comal or non-stick frying pan (skillet) over a
medium heat and toast them for a few minutes until soft and pliable. Be
careful not to burn them. Transfer them to a bowl and cover with the
boiling water. Leave to soften for 1 hour.
2. Place the tomatoes, onion and garlic in a blender and add chillies, along
with their soaking water. Blend until very smooth, then set aside.
3. Heat the oil in a large casserole dish (Dutch oven) over a low to medium
heat. Add the oxtail and fry for 5 minutes, turning often, until well
browned on all sides. Pour the blended chilli mixture over the top. Add
750 ml (25 fl oz/3 cups) of water and simmer, covered, for 2 hours.
Remove the lid and simmer for another hour, or until the stock is slightly
thickened and the meat easily falls off the bone.
4. Skim off some of the coloured oil suspended on the surface. Add the
sweetcorn pieces and potatoes and simmer for 15 minutes, then add the
chayote and beans and simmer for a further 20 minutes, or until all the
vegetables are tender.
5. Serve hot in a bowl. Add some lime juice into the mole de olla and
accompained with fresh tortillas.
Pork Chops al Pastor
As you will know if you are a taqueria addict, the pork al pastor is
grilled (broiled) on a rotating trompo, or spit. Thin slices are shaved
off the grilled sides to fill the tortillas. You can reproduce the pastor
experience at home by piling up pork chops, securing them with a
kebab skewer and slicing off the sides. Two key ingredients form
the pillars of tacos al pastor: the achiote paste in the marinade and
the grilled pineapple added on top. Achiote paste is a mixture of
crushed annatto seeds and spices. As well as giving the marinade an
intense red tone, it brings a unique nutty, almost citrusy flavour. For
the taco topping, I like to grill slices of pineapple and marinate them
in brown sugar and lime.
In Mexico City, there is a lot of debate around who created the
pastor taco recipe. I remember going to El Tizoncito in Condesa
borough with my parents and sister for a real treat when we were in
the area. It was always exciting as a child to see the taqueros slicing
the meat thinly from top to bottom of the rotating trompo and then,
very quickly, cutting a slice of pineapple at the very top of the meat,
which would inevitably fly all the way to the plate held by another
taquero about 1 metre (3 feet) away, with such precision that you
could be forgiven for thinking this was the main reason for our
excitement – until the pineapple and pork would melt in your
mouth. Their knife skills are absolutely unique.
SERVES 4

4 pork chops
30 g (1 oz/2½ tablespoons) light brown sugar
1 pineapple
juice of 1 lime
1 grilled jalapeño chilli
1 grilled Scotch bonnet chilli

FOR THE PASTOR MARINADE

15 g (½ oz) guajillo chillies, trimmed and deseeded
3 árbol chillies, trimmed and deseeded
10 g (½ oz) ancho chillies, trimmed and deseeded
75 ml (2¼ fl oz/⅓ cup) water
35 g (1¼ oz) achiote paste
1 tablespoon salt
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
5 teaspoons rice vinegar
¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon coriander seeds
125 ml (4¼ fl oz/½ cup) pineapple juice
125 ml (4¼ fl oz/½ cup) apple juice
20 g (¾ oz) garlic cloves, peeled
2 tablespoons agave syrup

TO SERVE
1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced, to garnish
warm tortillas, to serve

1. Begin by preparing the marinade. Toast the chillies in a comal or non-

stick frying pan (skillet) over a medium to high heat for a few minutes
until fragrant, being careful not to burn them. Transfer the toasted chillies
to a bowl, cover with water and leave for at least 1 hour to soften.
2. Drain the chillies, reserving 75 ml (2½ fl oz/½ cup) of their soaking water.
Place the drained chillies and reserved soaking water in a blender, then
add the rest of the marinade ingredients and blend until very smooth.
3. Place the pork chops in a non-reactive bowl and cover with the marinade,
making sure the chops are well coated. Leave in the refrigerator overnight.
4. Remove the marinated pork chops out from the refrigerator at least 1 hour
before cooking them to bring them up to room temperature.
5. Preheat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/375°F/gas mark 5 and line a baking
tray (pan) with baking parchment. Scatter the sugar on a plate.
6. Holding the pineapple by its leaves, remove the peel and eyes with a
knife, then square it off by cutting off 4 big chunks along its fibrous core.
Cut each chunk into slices 1 cm (½ in) thick.
7. Heat a non-stick griddle pan over a low to medium heat and griddle the
pineapple slices for 10–15 minutes on each side until well-grilled and
tender. You’ll need to work in batches. Dip each grilled slice in the brown
sugar to coat, then place in a bowl. Season with lime juice and set aside.
8. Keeping the griddle pan on the heat, add the pork chops and cook for 3
minutes on each side, then place them on the prepared baking tray. Place
in the oven and bake for 6–8 minutes, depending on the thickness of the
chops.
9. When you are ready to serve, pile the chops on top of each other, then
stack the pineapple slices on top of the chops. Finish with the two grilled
chillies and thread a kebab skewer through the middle of the whole pile to
secure. Cut thin slices of pork and pineapple directly from the pile and
serve in warm tortillas, garnished with slices of red onion.
Pibil-style Pork Ribs
Cochinita pibil is the emblematic dish of Yucatan. Cochinita, the
whole suckling pig, is doused in achiote marinade, wrapped in
banana leaves and slow-roasted in a pit. I have already mentioned
that annatto seeds are used as a natural colouring in the food
industry. Achiote paste, a mix of crushed annatto seeds and spices,
has a deep, vibrant red colour and a unique peppery, musky flavour
which pairs beautifully with pork. In Yucatan, sour oranges are used
for the marinade. Try this with the bitter juices of Seville oranges,
or mix together orange and lime juice. This marinade works
particularly well with spare ribs. If you can get hold of banana
leaves, they will add extra flavour, but the ribs can still be slow-
cooked to succulence simply wrapped in baking parchment and foil.
A word of warning: the habanero chillies used in the marinade
and the Xni’ Pek salsa give these spare ribs a good kick.
SERVES 4–6

2 x 1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) racks of pork ribs

oil, for brushing

FOR THE PIBIL MARINADE

150 g (5 oz) achiote paste, crumbled
230 ml (7¾ fl oz/scant 1 cup) freshly squeezed orange juice
3 tablespoons lime juice
45 g (1½ oz) garlic cloves
1 habanero chilli, trimmed
1½ teaspoons Mexican oregano
¾ teaspoon salt

TO SERVE
½ quantity Black Beans with Avocado Leaves
Xni’ Pek salsa

1. Place all the ingredients for the marinade in a blender and blend until
smooth. Place the ribs in a large non-reactive container – a glass or
porcelain dish is best. Cover with the marinade and leave in the
refrigerator overnight.
2. Remove the ribs from the refrigerator about 1 hour before cooking them.
Preheat the oven to 160°C/140°C fan/325°F/gas mark 3 and line a
roasting tray (pan) with a large piece of tin (aluminum) foil, big enough to
enclose the ribs. Place a large sheet of baking parchment on top of the foil,
then place the ribs on the baking parchment. Scrape out any marinade left
in the dish and pour it over the top of the ribs, along with 200 ml (7 fl
oz/scant 1 cup) of water. Cover with a second piece of baking parchment
and wrap the ribs in the paper and foil. Crumple the edges of the foil to
seal.
3. Place in the oven and bake for 2 hours, then open the foil and paper and
check that the meat is well cooked and is falling off the bone. Increase the
oven temperature to 180°C/160°C fan/350°F/ gas mark 5. Lightly brush
the ribs with oil and bake for a further 20 minutes, in the open parcel, until
the top of the meat has a slight crust.
4. Serve straight from the oven, with black beans and Xni’ Pek salsa on the
side.
Lamb Shanks, Barbacoa-style
A traditional barbacoa requires a pit in the ground, lined with rocks,
with a roaring fire to heat the rocks until red hot. The meat –
traditionally lamb or goat – is lowered into the pit and protected by
layers of maguey leaves, which give their flavour to the meat. The
pit is covered tightly with earth, and the meat is left to slow-cook
overnight before being dug out in the morning and served with
tortillas and salsas (pictured). But not to worry: I have a much
simpler and more accessible recipe.
Like many dishes in Mexico, each family, and each region or
state, has its own interpretation and preferences. The Barbacoa from
Zaachila Market in Oaxaca state is just as good as the one from
Hidalgo, but is prepared, cooked and seasoned differently. There,
they roll thin layers of beef – not lamb – mixed with herbs in
avocado leaves, and steam them.
For this recipe I use lamb shanks, marinate them overnight, and
slow-bake them wrapped in banana leaves. I usually place thick
slices of tomatoes and red onions underneath the lamb shanks.
These can be chopped, mixed with some of the cooking juices and
served as an extra salsa. Mexican umami at its best!
SERVES 4

4 lamb shanks
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Barbacoa Marinade
1 pack of banana leaves
2 red onions, sliced (optional)
4 tomatoes, thickly sliced (optional)
7 garlic cloves, peeled
250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) vegetable stock

TO SERVE
tortillas, shop-bought or homemade
Avocado Salsa
Cebolla Morada

1. Use paper towels to pat the lamb shanks dry, then lightly score the meat
with a sharp knife. Place the lamb shanks in a large bowl and spread the
marinade evenly over them, the thicker the better. Leave to marinate in the
refrigerator for 12 hours. Remove from the refrigerator at least 1 hour
before cooking to bring the shanks back up to room temperature.
2. Preheat the oven to 160°C/140°C fan/325°F/gas mark 3. Preheat the grill
(broiler) to maximum and grill (broil) the shanks for 5 minutes to sear the
outside and caramelise the marinade.
3. Wipe the banana leaves well then cut into 6 large strips, each measuring
25 x 40 cm (10 x 16 in). Place the leaves in a large frying pan (skillet) and
dry toast over a medium to high heat for 1 minute, or until they become
pliable and shiny and change colour.
4. Use 4 of the banana leaf strips to line the bottom of a 25 x 30 cm (10 x 12
in) roasting tray (pan), shiny side-down, making sure they overhang on all
sides. Spread out the onion and tomato slices over the top, if using, then
arrange the lamb shanks on top of them. Add the garlic cloves and pour
over the vegetable stock. Cover with the last two banana leaves, shiny
side-up, then wrap up the overhanging leaves like a parcel. Cover with
two layers of very carefully sealed tin (aluminum) foil. There should be
no holes, gaps or tears in the foil through which steam could escape.
5. Place in the oven and bake the lamb shanks for at least 3 hours.
6. When ready, remove the foil and the top banana leaves. If you have used
the onions and tomatoes, remove them from the pan and finely chop.
Place in a bowl and add a few tablespoons of the cooking juices to make a
salsa. Taste and adjust seasoning.
7. Serve the shanks on their bed of banana leaves, with plenty of tortillas,
salsas and pickled onions.
Smoky Cauliflower with Pipián Blanco
The smoky Barbacoa adobo is perfect for vegetables like
cauliflower or even butternut squash. I like to serve it with pipián
blanco, a traditional Mexican roasted nut sauce, to temper the heat
of the chilli marinade. You can also roast cauliflower florets and
serve them with the sauce on the side as a healthy dip. The florets
will be cooked in about 25 minutes.
SERVES 4

1 cauliflower, kept whole, with leaves intact

100 g (3½ oz) Barbacoa Marinade
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
sea salt flakes
chopped toasted almonds, to serve

FOR THE PIPIÁN BLANCO

75 g almonds
2¾ tablespoons sesame seeds
3 tablespoons pine nuts
250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) water
1 tablespoon butter
½ onion, finely chopped
10 g (½ oz) garlic, finely chopped
sea salt and ground white pepper

1. Begin by preparing the pipián blanco. Dry-fry the almonds in a small

frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat, stirring all the time until they are
golden. It should take about 4 minutes. Repeat for the sesame seeds and
then the pine nuts, which should each take about 2 minutes. Transfer all
the toasted nuts and seeds to a bowl and pour over the water. Leave to
soak for at least 12 hours.
2. When you are ready to cook, melt the butter in a frying pan (skillet) over a
low heat and fry the onion and garlic for 10–12 minutes until caramelised.
Transfer to a blender and add the nuts, along with their soaking water.
Process until smooth. Season well and set aside.
3. Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/350°F/gas mark 5 and line a baking
tray (pan) with baking parchment.
4. Keep any leaves attached to the cauliflower: they are delicious roasted.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and add the cauliflower, head
down. Blanch for 5 minutes, then drain and leave to cool for 15 minutes.
5. Place the barbacoa marinade in a bowl and gradually whisk in the oil
until well incorporated. Massage the marinade into the cauliflower head,
making sure it gets into all the crevasses, then place the cauliflower on the
prepared baking tray. Bake for 45 minutes, or until tender and well
roasted.
6. Serve the cauliflower cut into wedges, sprinkled with sea salt and toasted
almonds, with the pipián blanco on the side.
Celeriac and Mushroom Tacos with Pipián Verde
Although commonly served with chicken, I have always thought
that pipián verde is perfect for a vegan dish. This beautiful pipián is
a blend of fresh herbs, fresh jalapeño, tomatillos and pumpkin
seeds. Its complex flavour is extremely addictive. Like any pipián,
mole or adobo, the recipe varies between different households,
families and regions. After trying this recipe, you might want to
experiment with changing one ingredient or another: for example by
trying different seeds, adding more coriander (cilantro) or even
adding some local green herbs. I like it with Thai basil or tarragon,
neither of which are normally found in Mexican cooking.
Fresh tomatillos are not that easy to find in Europe. Small farms
sometimes produce them during summer, but production is limited.
I adapted this recipe to work with tinned tomatillos with the help of
my head chef Alexandra, so you can replicate this recipe if you can
not get fresh tomatillos locally.
SERVES 4

350 g (12 oz) celeriac (celery root), peeled and cut into thick wedges
½ quantity Ancho Dry Rub
200 g (7 oz) mushrooms, quartered
1 tablespoon grapeseed or vegetable oil, plus extra for brushing
20 g (¾ oz) Onion Sofrito
1 garlic clove, crushed
200 g (7 oz) baby spinach
12 tortillas, shop-bought or homemade
2 tablespoons toasted pumpkin seeds, to garnish

FOR THE PIPIÁN VERDE

100 g (3½ oz) pumpkin seeds, toasted
100 g (3½ oz) tinned tomatillos
100 g (3½ oz) tinned tomatillo brine
20 g (¾ oz) onion
8 g (¼ oz) tarragon leaves
12 mint leaves
5 large Thai basil leaves
1 tablespoon grapeseed or vegetable oil
40 g (1½ oz) spinach
450 ml (15 fl oz/1¾ cups) boiling water
1 jalapeño chilli, trimmed and chopped
¾ teaspoon salt
10 g (¼ oz) coriander (cilantro) leaves

1. First prepare the pipián verde. Place the pumpkin seeds, tinned tomatillos,
tomatillo brine, onion, tarragon, mint and Thai basil in a blender and
blend until smooth. Heat the oil in a saucepan over a low heat and add the
blended mixture. Cook for 10–12 minutes, stirring often, until the mixture
has thickened. Pour on to a plate and spread out to cool down.
2. Place the spinach in a large bowl and pour over the boiling water to
blanch. Remove the spinach with a slotted spoon and plunge into a bowl
of iced water, then squeeze dry in your hands.
3. Pour the mixture on the plate into a blender, and add the squeezed
spinach, blanching water, jalapeño, salt and coriander. Blend until smooth.
You can do this in batches if your blender is not big enough. Set aside.
4. Preheat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/375°F/gas mark 5 and line a baking
tray (pan) with baking parchment.
5. Rub all the celeriac pieces with a bit more than half the ancho rub until
well coated. Rub the remaining ancho run over the mushrooms.
6. Arrange the celeriac wedges on the prepared tray and brush with the oil.
Bake for 20 minutes, then add the mushrooms to the tray and bake for
another 10–15 minutes, until the celeriac is tender but still a bit crunchy.
Remove from the oven. Once cool enough to handle, dice the celeriac and
mushrooms.
7. Place the pipián verde in a saucepan over a low heat and gently warm
through.
8. Meanwhile, place a frying pan (skillet) over a medium–high heat and fry
the sofrito and oil for a couple of minutes. Add the diced celeriac and
mushroom and stir-fry for another minute. Add the spinach and cook until
just wilted.
9. Lightly brush the tortillas with oil and, in a separate frying pan, fry for 1
minute on each side, until soft and pliable.
10. You can serve this dish in two different ways. You can dip the tortillas in
the sauce and place on a plate, then cover half of each tortilla with about
40 g (1½ oz) of the celeriac and mushroom mixture, before folding and
repeating with the other tortillas; or you can simply fill and fold the
tortillas, and spoon the sauce over the top. Serve, garnished with pumpkin
seeds.
 Glossary
ACHIOTE Yucatecan paste made from ground annatto seeds and spices
with a very vibrant, red colour. Traditionally used to marinade pork for
cochinta pibil by diluting this paste with orange juice from a local orange
variety called naranja agria.
ADOBO A smoky, chilli-based paste made with onions, garlic and other
spices.
AGAVE A native Mexican plant with broad, flat leaves that come to a point
on the end and grow a single tall flower at maturity. The heart of the blue
agave plant (piña) is used to make high quality tequila.
AL PASTOR Meat (any type but usually pork) cooked over a spit, Middle
Eastern-style.
ANCHO Sundried poblano pepper.
ARBOL A small, fiery red chilli.
ASADO/ASADA Grilled (broiled) meat, e.g. carne asada is meat broiled
over hot coals.
AVOCADO LEAVES The leaves of an avocado plant, they have a slight
anise flavour, and are often used in guisados (stews) and adobos
(marinades).
BARBACOA Usually meat, traditionally lamb, cooked in an underground
pit, often wrapped in agave or banana leaves.
BURRITO A flour toritilla softened with heat and wrapped around a
number of ingredients (usually meat and beans) to form a tight, cylindrical
parcel. Often associated with ‘Tex-Mex’, it can contain a variety of
ingredients and range in sizes.
CALCOTS A type of spring onion (scallion) often found in Spain that is
size-wise somewhere between a spring onion and a small leek.
CARNITAS A Mexican food speciality of the Michoacán region. Carnitas
is essentially confit pork – pork cuts, cooked in lard – and recipes often
include Mexican Coca-Cola and orange juice.
CEVICHE Raw fish cured in citrus juices and mixed traditionally with
tomatoes, onions, chillies and herbs.
CHAYOTE A type of squash.
CHICHARRONES Deep fried pork rinds.
CHILAQUILES Totopos (AKA tortilla chips) traditionally topped with
salsa verde or roja as well as crema and cheese.
CHIPOTLE Dried, smoked jalapeño chilli.
CHORIZO Fresh, highly seasoned sausage flavoured with chillies and
spices.
COCA-COLA (MEXICAN) Also known as ‘Mexi-coke’, unlike the US
version of Coca-Cola, the Mexican format is sweetened with cane sugar
rather than high fructose corn syrup, garnering its flavour more ‘natural’
tasting with a complexity and richness of herbs and spices. Mexican Coke is
often included in cooking recipes across Mexico, particularly when using
fatty meats.
COTIJA This firm cow’s milk cheese presents a pale and crumbly texture,
with a savoury richness similar to Parmesan or pecorino cheese. It is cage
ripened and an officially recognised regional speciality from the Michoacan
region in Mexico.
ELOTE Fresh corn on the cob.
ENCHILADAS Lightly fried corn tortilla dipped in sauce or mole and
traditionally stuffed with shredded chicken or beef, but can also be with
cheese and vegetables.
EPAZOTE A wild herb that grows all over North America. Used to flavour
Mexican dishes, soups and stews.
ESCABECHE Mixture of oil, vinegar, herbs and seasonings used to pickle
jalapeños and other vegetables.
FLAUTA A large corn tortilla usually filled with beef, chicken or slightly
smashed potato then rolled and deep fried until crisp. It takes this name
because of its flute-like shape.
GUAJILLO The dried version of a mirasol chilli, guajillos are sweet and
fruity with a mild heat.
GUISADOS A meat or vegetable stew, slow cooked until ingredients
soften and break down.
HABANERO Very spicy, fruity and aromatic chilli pepper very popular in
Yucatecan cooking.
HORCHATA Soft drink made by blending ground rice with water and
spices including cinnamon or cardamom.
HUITLACOCHE In Mexico, huitlacoche is a Mexican food delicacy to
be savoured. Also called corn smut, maize mushroom or Mexican truffle.
JALAPEÑO A medium-hot fresh chilli pepper very popular in Mexican
food. Jalapeños are also known as chipotles in their dehydrated form.
MASA Dough of nixtamalised and ground corn kernels mixed with water
used to make corn tortillas and many different antojitos. It also refers to the
dough made with nixtamalised corn masa harina, water and salt to prepare
tortillas.
MEXICAN OREGANO A commonly used herb that has citrusy, grassy
notes.
MEZCAL Distilled liquor made from the juice of several types of agaves –
wild and harvested – after being pit roasted and cooked.
MOJO DE AJO Confit garlic sauce.
MOLCAJETE Stone mortar used mostly to grind chillies for salsas.
MOLE A very complex sauce in Mexican cooking traditionally made with
chillies, spices and herbs. Mole poblano is probably one of the most well
known moles and it mixes and balances chillies, spices, fruits, vegetables,
chocolate and seasonings.
MORITA CHIPOTLE A slightly smoked but mainly dried jalapeño chilli.
Commonly known as chipotle morita.
MECO CHIPOTLE A smoked and dried jalapeño chilli with a deep
smokey and tobacco flavour. Commonly known as chipotle meco.
NIXTAMALIZATION The process of soaking and cooking dried corn
kernels with an alkaline solution commonly known as limewater. Nixtamal
is the product obtained after this process and when grounded it is turned
into corn masa. This is an ancient process utilised in Mexico and Central
America to produce corn tortillas and other maize-based products.
PAMBAZO A Mexican dish made from special bread dipped in a red
guajillo pepper sauce and filled with potato, chorizo, lettuce and cream.
PASILLA MIXE Long, thin, almost black chilli with a very deep smokey
flavour only produced in the Mixe region of Oaxaca.
PIQUIN POWDER A hot chilli powder made from piquin peppers.
POBLANO Dark green, rounded fresh chilli used for chile rellenos.
POZOLE Robust, medium spicy soup with pork or chicken, hominy,
onions and spices. Also called posole.
SERRANO One of northern Mexico’s most commonly used chillies. Small,
green and very hot.
TACO Usually a corn tortilla, folded in half and filled with meat,
vegetables and salsa. Can be fried and served crispy or grilled (broiled) and
served soft and topped with a variety of ingredients.
TAMALES Corn dough filled with meat, vegetables or fruit, wrapped up
traditionally in a corn husk or banana leaves and steamed.
TOMATILLO A relative of the gooseberry family. Resembles a small
green tomato, it is very flavoursome and used in many salsas, well known
as the main ingredient is salsa verde.
TORTA Mexican style hot or cold sandwich on a bread roll traditionally
called telera.
TORTILLA Flat, thin and circular disc made of nixtamalised dough and
then cooked in the comal or plancha. Probably the most important food in
Mexican cooking.
TOSTADA Crisp fried, flat corn tortilla, often topped with guisados
(stews).
TOTOPOS Traditional name for fried tortilla chips.
 Index
A
achiote paste: pibil-style pork ribs 1
adobo
adobo verde 1
guajillo adobo 1
tamarind chicken wings 1
agave
cacao and agave dressing 1
French toast with agave, cacao nibs and bacon 1
aguachile: scallops aguachile verde tostadas 1
almonds: granola with amaranth 1
amaranth seeds
amaranth and coconut porridge 1
granola with amaranth 1
watercress and radish salad with puffed amaranth 1
amaretto: Mezcal Sour 1
ancho chillies
ancho dry rub 1
ancho rub pot chicken 1
barbacoa marinade 1
tacos dorados with mole ‘en chinga’ 1–2
apple juice: avocado shake 1
apples
salmon en mole de frutas 1–2
tomatillo ketchup 1
apricots: pineapple and apricot chamoy 1
arroz a la Mexicana 1
atole de fresas 1
avocado black bean refritos 1
frijoles 1–2
huevos motuleños 1
molletes with pico de gallo 1
shiitake mushroom sopes 1
avocado leaves
avocado black bean refritos 1
barbacoa marinade 1
black beans with avocado leaves 1
avocados
avocado salsa 1
avocado shake 1
classic guacamole 1
crab tostadas 1
scallops aguachile verde tostadas 1
seafood cocktail 1
watercress and radish salad with puffed amaranth 1

B
baby corn: chiles en escabeche 1
bacon, French toast with agave, cacao nibs and 1
Baja-style fish tacos 1
barbacoa marinade 1
lamb shanks, barbacoa-style 1
smoky cauliflower with mole blanco 1
beans
machaca scrambled egg burrito 1–2
refried beans 1
see also black beans; pinto beans
beef: chiles rellenos 1
beer
Cubana 1
seafood michelada 1
Bee’s Knees 1
beetroot and pasilla mixe ketchup 1
black beans
avocado black bean refritos 1
black beans with avocado leaves 1
frijoles 1–2
molletes with pico de gallo 1
shiitake mushroom sopes 1
blueberries: hibiscus tamales 1
bread
molletes with pico de gallo 1
pambazo 1
telera bread 1
breakfast 1–2
brioche: French toast with agave, cacao nibs and bacon 1
burrita, machaca scrambled egg 1–2

C
cabbage
cabbage salad 1
coleslaw 1
cacao nibs
cacao and agave dressing 1
French toast with agave, cacao nibs and bacon 1
cactus paddles
jugo verde de nopal 1
ox cheek and chorizo suadero 1
café de olla syrup 1
caldillo de jitomate 1
arroz a la Mexicana 1
chiles rellenos 1
huos motuleños 1
lentil soup with plantain and pancetta 1
sopa de tortilla 1
Campari: Paloma 1
carnitas: duck carnitas with tomatillo ketchup 1
carrots
arroz a la Mexicana 1
coleslaw 1
cauliflower: smoky cauliflower with mole blanco 1
cebolla morada 1
guajillo adobo 1
celeriac and mushroom tacos with pipián verde 1
chamoy, pineapple and apricot 1
chayote: cabbage salad 1
cheese
hibiscus flower quesadillas 1
huevos motuleños 1
molletes with pico de gallo 1
pambazo 1
queso fresco 1
queso fundido with rajas and chorizo 1
squid in creamy chipotle sauce 1
chicharron prensado 1–2
chicken
ancho rub pot chicken 1
chicken stock 1
chicken tinga pasties 1–2
corn masa harina for savoury tamales 1–2
sopa de tortilla 1
tacos dorados 1–2
tamarind chicken wings 1
chilaquiles with fried eggs 1
chiles en escabeche 1
chiles rellenos 1
chilli sauce: Sangrita 1
chillies
ancho dry rub 1
barbacoa marinade 1
beetroot and pasilla mixe ketchup 1
chiles en escabeche 1
chiles rellenos 1
chipotle mayo 1
classic guacamole 1
enchilada salsa 1
guajillo adobo 1
habanero and pumpkin seed salsa macha 1
homemade chipotles en adobo 1
oxtail mole de olla 1
pineapple and apricot chamoy 1
pork chops al pastor 1–2
salmon en mole de frutas 1–2
salsa de árbol 1
salsa pasilla mixe 1
salsa roja de molcajete 1
salsa verde cocida 1
salsa verde cruda 1
sikil pak 1
smoked ham hocks 1
tacos dorados with mole ‘en chinga’ 1–2
xni’ pek 1
chipotle en adobo
avocado black bean refritos 1
squid in creamy chipotle sauce 1
chocolate
spicy chocolate de agua 1
tacos dorados with mole ‘en chinga’ 1–2
chorizo
ox cheek and chorizo suadero 1
pambazo 1
papas con chorizo 1–2
queso fundido with rajas and chorizo 1
cinnamon
café de olla syrup 1
horchata 1
coconut water: amaranth and coconut porridge 1
Cointreau: hibiscus margarita 1
coleslaw 1
compote, hibiscus 1
cordial, hibiscus 1
corn husks
corn masa harina for savoury tamales 1–2
hibiscus tamales 1
corn masa harina
 hibiscus tamales 1
for savoury tamales 1–2
for tortillas 1–2
crab tostadas 1
cranberries: granola with amaranth 1
crema 1
chilaquiles with fried eggs 1
padrón rajas con crema 1
squid in creamy chipotle sauce 1
Cubana 1

D
dinner 1–2
dips
classic guacamole 1
sikil pak 1
dressings
cacao and agave dressing 1
orange coleslaw dressing 1
drinks
avocado shake 1
Bee’s Knees 1
café de olla syrup 1
Cubana 1
hibiscus cordial 1
hibiscus infusion 1
hibiscus margarita 1
horchata 1
jugo verde de nopal 1
Mezcal Sour 1
Paloma 1
Sangrita 1
seafood michelada 1
spicy chocolate de agua 1
sundown drinks 1–2
tepache 1
dry rub, ancho 1
duck carnitas with tomatillo ketchup 1

E
eggs
chilaquiles with fried eggs 1
huevos divorciados 1
huevos motuleños 1
machaca scrambled egg burrita 1–2
enchiladas, hibiscus flower 1
esquites 1

F
fish
Baja-style fish tacos 1
mackerel a la talla 1
salmon en mole de frutas 1–2
French toast with agave, cacao nibs and bacon 1
frijoles 1–2

G
garlic
barbacoa marinade 1
caldillo de jitomate 1
enchilada salsa 1
homemade chipotles en adobo 1
lamb shanks, barbacoa style 1
mojo de ajo 1
ox cheek and chorizo suadero 1
oxtail mole de olla 1
salsa pasilla mixe 1
granola with amaranth 1
grapefruit tonic water: Paloma 1
green beans: oxtail mole de olla 1
guacamole, classic 1
guajillo adobo 1
chicharron prensado 1–2
mackerel a la talla 1
pambazo 1
prawns al guajillo 1
salsa de árbol 1

H
habanero chillies
habanero and pumpkin seed salsa macha 1
salsa de habanero de molcajete 1
sikil pak 1
haddock: Baja-style fish tacos 1
ham
huevos motuleños 1
smoked ham hocks 1
herbs: adobo verde 1
hibiscus
hibiscus compote 1
hibiscus cordial 1
hibiscus flower enchiladas 1
 hibiscus flower quesadillas 1
hibiscus infusion 1
hibiscus margarita 1
hibiscus tamales 1
horchata 1
huevos divorciados 1
huevos motuleños 1

I
infusion, hibiscus 1

J
jalapeño and lime mayonnaise 1
jugo verde de nopal 1

K
ketchup
beetroot and pasilla mixe ketchup 1
tomatillo ketchup 1

L
lamb shanks, barbacoa style 1
lentil soup with plantain and pancetta 1
lime juice
cebolla morada 1
jalapeño and lime mayonnaise 1
lunch 1–2

M
machaca scrambled egg burrito 1–2
mackerel a la talla 1
margarita, hibiscus 1
masa harina
atole de fresas 1
corn masa harina for savoury tamales 1–2
corn masa harina for sopes 1–2
corn masa harina for tortillas 1–2
hibiscus tamales 1
Mayan-style habanero salsa 1
mayonnaise
chipotle mayo 1
jalapeño and lime mayonnaise 1
Mexican cooking, roots of 1–2
Mezcal Sour 1
michelada, seafood 1
milk
hibiscus tamales 1
queso fresco 1
mojo de ajo 1
avocado black bean refritos 1
caldillo de jitomate 1
onion sofrito 1
mole
salmon en mole de frutas 1–2
tacos dorados with mole ‘en chinga’ 1–2
mole blanco, smoky cauliflower with 1
mole de olla, oxtail 1
molletes with pico de gallo 1
mushrooms
celeriac and mushroom tacos with pipián verde 1
shiitake mushroom sopes 1

O
oats: granola with amaranth 1
onion sofrito 1
hibiscus flower quesadillas 1
homemade chipotles en adobo 1
machaca scrambled egg burrita 1–2
padrón rajas con crema 1
shiitake mushroom sopes 1
tacos dorados 1–2
onions: cebolla morada 1
onion sofrito 1
orange juice
avocado shake 1
cebolla morada 1
orange coleslaw dressing 1
pibil-style pork ribs 1
Sangrita 1
ox cheek and chorizo suadero 1
ox tongue tacos 1
oxtail mole de olla 1

P
padrón rajas con crema 1
Paloma 1
pambazo 1
pancetta, lentil soup with plantain and 1
papas con chorizo 1–2
parsley: mackerel a la talla 1
pasilla mixe chillies
beetroot and pasilla mixe ketchup 1
salsa pasilla mixe 1
tacos dorados with mole ‘en chinga’ 1–2
pasties, chicken tinga 1–2
pears: salmon en mole de frutas 1–2
peas
arroz a la Mexicana 1
huevos motuleños 1
peppers: padrón rajas con crema 1
pibil-style pork ribs 1
pickles
cebolla morada 1
chiles en escabeche 1
pico de gallo 1
molletes with pico de gallo 1
pineapple
jugo verde de nopal 1
pineapple and apricot chamoy 1
pork chops al pastor 1–2
salmon en mole de frutas 1–2
tepache 1
pinto beans 1
refried beans 1
pipián blanco 1
pipián verde, celeriac and mushroom tacos with 1
plantain: lentil soup with plantain and pancetta 1
pork
corn masa harina for savoury tamales 1–2
pibil-style pork ribs 1
pork chops al pastor 1–2
pork crackling: chicharron prensado 1–2
potatoes
chiles en escabeche 1
oxtail mole de olla 1
pambazo 1
papas con chorizo 1–2
prawns
prawns al guajillo 1
seafood cocktail 1
seafood michelada 1
pumpkin seeds
granola with amaranth 1
habanero and pumpkin seed salsa macha 1
sikil pak 1

Q
quesadillas, hibiscus flower 1
queso fresco 1
hibiscus flower enchiladas 1
huevos motuleños 1
queso fundido with rajas and chorizo 1

R
radishes: watercress and radish salad with puffed amaranth 1
raisins: salmon en mole de frutas 1–2
rajas: queso fundido with rajas and chorizo 1
refried beans 1
machaca scrambled egg burrita 1–2
refritos
avocado black bean refritos 1
frijoles 1–2
molletes with pico de gallo 1
shiitake mushroom sopes 1
rice: arroz a la Mexicana 1
rocket: watercress and radish salad with puffed amaranth 1

S
salad: heirloom tomato salad with cacao and agave dressing 1
salmon en mole de frutas 1
salsa
avocado salsa 1
enchilada salsa 1
habanero and pumpkin seed salsa macha 1
salsa de árbol 1
salsa de habanero de molcajete 1
salsa pasilla mixe 1
salsa roja cocida 1–2
salsa roja cruda 1–2
salsa roja de molcajete 1
xni’ pek 1
salsa pasilla mixe 1
machaca scrambled egg burrita 1–2
salsa roja cruda 1–2
huevos divorciados 1
salsa verde
chilaquiles with fried eggs 1
corn masa harina for savoury tamales 1–2
huevos divorciados 1
salsa verde cocida 1
salsa verde cruda and avocado salsa 1
sandwiches: pambazo 1
Sangrita 1
 Cubana 1
seafood michelada 1
sauces
caldillo de jitomate 1
habanero and pumpkin seed salsa macha 1
mojo de ajo 1
pineapple and apricot chamoy 1
scallops
scallops aguachile verde tostadas 1
seafood cocktail 1
seafood
seafood cocktail 1
seafood michelada 1
shake, avocado 1
shiitake mushroom sopes 1
sikil pak 1
smoked ham hocks 1
smoky cauliflower with mole blanco 1
snacks 1–2
sopa de tortilla 1
sopes
corn masa harina for 1–2
shiitake mushroom sopes 1
soup: lentil soup with plantain and pancetta 1
spicy chocolate de agua 1
spinach: celeriac and mushroom tacos with pipián verde 1
squid in creamy chipotle sauce 1
stock
chicken stock 1
vegetable stock 1
strawberries: atole de fresas 1
suadero, ox cheek and chorizo 1
sweetcorn
arroz a la Mexicana 1
esquites 1
oxtail mole de olla 1
padrón rajas con crema 1

T
tacos
Baja-style fish tacos 1
celeriac and mushroom tacos with pipián verde 1
ox tongue tacos 1
tacos de canasta 1–2
tacos dorados with mole ‘en chinga’ 1–2
tamales
corn masa harina for 1–2
 hibiscus tamales 1
tamarind chicken wings 1
telera bread 1
tepache 1
Bee’s Knees 1
tequila
Bee’s Knees 1
hibiscus margarita 1
Paloma 1
tinga: chicken tinga pasties 1–2
tomatillos
salsa verde cocida 1
salsa verde cruda 1
tomatillo ketchup 1
tomato juice: Sangrita 1
tomato ketchup: seafood cocktail 1
tomatoes
caldillo de jitomate 1
chicken tinga pasties 1–2
classic guacamole 1
enchilada salsa 1
heirloom tomato salad with cacao and agave dressing 1
oxtail mole de olla 1
pico de gallo 1, 2
salsa roja cruda 1–2
salsa roja de molcajete 1
watercress and radish salad with puffed amaranth 1
tortillas
Baja-style fish tacos 1
celeriac and mushroom tacos with pipián verde 1
corn masa harina for 1–2
crab tostadas 1
hibiscus flower enchiladas 1
hibiscus flower quesadillas 1
huevos divorciados 1
huevos motuleños 1
machaca scrambled egg burrita 1–2
ox cheek and chorizo suadero 1
ox tongue tacos 1
scallops aguachile verde tostadas 1
sopa de tortilla 1
tacos de canasta 1–2
tacos dorados 1–2
totopos 1
wheat tortillas 1
tostadas
crab tostadas 1
scallops aguachile verde tostadas 1
totopos 1

V
vanilla: horchata 1
vegetables
vegetable stock 1
see also individual types of vegetable

W
watercress and radish salad with puffed amaranth 1
wheat tortillas 1

X
xni’ pek 1

Image descriptions
Lady rushing but smiling on her way to deliver comida corrida near
Mercado de San Juan, México City. No Deliveroo needed.
– Edson Diaz-Fuentes
Picture of Ciudad de México traditional sign made by Melquiades García
Alcántara of AKA Rotulacion Artesanal. This type of lettering and design
gained a lot of popularity in Mexico City in the 70s and 80s among
taquerias, torterias, ice cream parlours and paleterías primarily. Mr
Alcántara calculates he had made over 7,500 metres (24,600 feet) of signs
in the last 50 years decorating key establishments in the city.
– Montserrat Castro
Dulcería de Celaya in 5 de Mayo St, Historic Center, Mexico City. One of
the few remain shops for traditional and authentic Mexican sweets in
México City.
– Edson Diaz-Fuentes
Our first picture taken outside Santo Remedio Restaurant in London Bridge
back in 2017.
– Ronaldo Tavares
Fish monger from the Triakidae family showing cazón in Mercado de San
Juan. Cazón is widely used fish in Mexico known in English as snapper or
soupfin shark from the Triakidae family.
– Edson Diaz-Fuentes
Los Cocuyos Taqueria at 2am. Bolivar 57 Historic Center, Mexico City.
– Edson Diaz-Fuentes
Dried chillies shop in Puebla.
– Edson Diaz-Fuentes
Clay Pot full of mole poblano ingredients ready to turn into a paste. As part
of mole workshop by Liz Galicia at Mural de los Poblanos back in 2014.
– Edson Diaz-Fuentes
Image1, image2, image3 & image4. Gerardo Soriano and his family
preparing barbacoa in San José de los Laureles, Morelos. From choosing
and killing the sheep, cleaning it and preparing the hoyo for the
underground oven for hours the family prepare all stages of this process.
They then cook the meat covered in maguey and avocado leaves overnight
for about 12 hours.
– Adam Wiseman
Pasilla mixe chilli seller in Central de Abastos in Oaxaca. Probably the only
chilli that is not widely use in Mexico City dishes and cooking, but an
essential in my cupboard since I discovered it almost two decades ago.
– Edson Diaz-Fuentes
Restaurante El Cardenal, Calle de la Palma 23, Historic Center Mexico
City.
– Edson Diaz-Fuentes
Carniceria.
– Edson Diaz-Fuentes
Polleria.
– Edson Diaz-Fuentes
 About the Author

Edson Diaz-Fuentes was born and raised in Mexico City. He

realised he was not quite like the others among his friends when he
would spend time from a young age observing meticulously how
food was made, served and presented. Whether at his
grandmother’s house, at a taqueria or at restaurants for family
celebrations he found himself mesmerised by the process of
bringing food to fruition. Edson has spent time living in New York,
London and Oaxaca City. It was in Oaxaca where he spent time in
the kitchen of Alejandro Ruiz, at Casa Oaxaca, learning about the
diversity of some of Mexico’s most treasured ingredients and its
slow food cooking techniques. Edson set up Santo Remedio in
London in 2015 with his wife Natalie to recreate the flavours he
grew up with in Mexico. What started off as an idea in New York
and later a food stall in Shoreditch, East London, evolved into a
critically acclaimed restaurant, now situated in London Bridge.
Edson enjoys travelling in Mexico discovering new food, flavours
and ingredients as well as the stories and traditions behind the
dishes he tries. He particularly enjoys getting lost in markets
anywhere he visits. Edson lives in London with his wife Natalie,
son Sebastian and daughter Cecilia, and also spends his time
between Cornwall and Oaxaca.

www.edsondiazfuentes.com
 Acknowledgements

I embarked on writing this cookbook just as the Covid-19

pandemic and first lockdown started in London in March 2020. I
had just begun to develop recipes when I lost my sense of taste and
smell, which was a challenge to say the least! Thankfully it was
short lived. All the family was at home due to lockdown, the
restaurant was closed and the uncertainty for the hospitality
industry was unprecedented. It was definitely not how I envisaged
my time cooking and writing. But amidst the political chaos, u-
turns and confusion both in the UK and Mexico I finally got to
work creating the recipes and stories for this book. Good food and
social interaction is now more important than ever. And as I write
this from Mexico, I am in awe of all the resilience of country’s
food producers and suppliers. They keep going in the face of all the
challenges due to the pandemic, a year on from when it started.
Special thanks to all those men and women who have been behind
the comales, pots and trompos that are part of Mexico’s street food
scene. They have inspired me without knowing it, bite after bite. I
am extremely grateful to all those involved in making this book
happen. Thanks for your honest feedback and input. You know who
you are. To my Chilango and New Yorker friend Richard Ampudia
for the countless chats about Mexican food and how to make it
possible outside Mexico one taco at a time. To Adam Wiseman for
capturing the essence of DF with his wonderful photography. To
my parents and grandparents who introduced me to the wonders of
Mexico food. To our restaurant managers Celine, Alexandra and
Daniel for their contribution to Santo Remedio in our mission to
bring the very best Mexican food and hospitality to the UK. To the
team at Hardie Grant - Eve, Valerie, Rachel, Rob, Daniel and all
those who have helped bring this book to life. Particular thanks
goes to my wife and talented journalist Natalie, for hoovering up
all the antojitos at home but most importantly for helping me when
I had writer’s block. And thank you to my harshest critics, my son
Sebastian and daughter Cecilia, for taste testing the non-spicy
recipes in the book. The tamales and juices are all the better, thanks
to the faces you made upon trying them!
 Published in 2021 by Hardie Grant Books, an imprint of Hardie Grant Publishing

Hardie Grant Books (London)

5th & 6th Floors
52–54 Southwark Street
London SE1 1UN

Hardie Grant Books (Melbourne)

Building 1, 658 Church Street
Richmond, Victoria 3121

hardiegrantbooks.com

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or
transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise,
without the prior written permission of the publishers and copyright holders.

The moral rights of the author have been asserted.

Copyright text © Edson Diaz-Fuentes

Copyright Photography © Robert Billington, Edson Diaz-Fuentes, Adam Wiseman

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data. A catalogue record for this book is available from
the British Library.

Ciudad de Mexico
eISBN: 978-1-78488-413-0

Publisher: Kajal Mistry

Commissioning Editor: Eve Marleau
Design and Illustration: Daniel New
Photographer: Robert Billington and Adam Wiseman
Food Stylist:Valerie Berry
Prop Stylist: Rachel Vere
Copy-editor: Tara O’Sullivan
Proofreader: Gillian Haslam
Indexer: Vanessa Bird
Production Controller: Nikolaus Ginelli