How to Make a

By Terrarium Designs
 Copyright 2023, Jordan Pola (Terrarium Designs)

All rights reserved.

No portion of this book may be reproduced in any form without written
permission from the author.

Terrarium Designs Copyright

 Contents
01 Introduction

02 Chapter 1 - The Vessel

02 Material & clarity
03 Does size matter?
05 Shape
05 You need a lid!
06 DIY lid

07 Chapter 2 - Drainage
07 What can you use?
08 Do you always need a drainage layer?
08 How much water does a terrarium with no drainage need?
09 Drainage layer depth

10 Chapter 3 - Substrate Barrier

10 How to install a substrate barrier

11 Chapter 4 - Substrate
11 Substrate characteristics
12 The best substrate mix
13 Alternatives & Substitutes
13 How to apply substrate
14 How to make a terrarium tool

15 Chapter 5 - Hardscape
15 What is hardscape?
17 How to design an effective hardscape
18 Hardscape to avoid
18 Do you need hardscape?

19 Chapter 6 - Moss
19 Cushion moss
20 Fern moss
21 Mood moss
21 Aquatic moss
22 The best moss to use in terrariums
24 Moss from outside
25 How to plant moss
26 Mossariums

Terrarium Designs Contents

27 Chapter 7 - Plants
27 The best plants to use in a terrarium
31 The best plants for small terrariums
31 Do plants need roots? How to propagate!

32 Chapter 8 - Microfauna
32 Is microfauna good?
33 Isopods
34 Mites
35 Springtails
36 How to remove microfauna
38 How microfauna survives in a terrarium

39 Chapter 9 - Watering
39 The types of water to use
39 How much water does a terrarium need?
42 How to tell if a terrarium has been overwatered
42 Overwatered terrarium procedure
43 Watering a mature terrarium
43 Airtight terrariums
44 Non-airtight terrariums

45 Chapter 10 - Lighting
45 Direct sunlight
45 Natural light
46 Artificial light

47 Chapter 11 - Care
47 Mould phase
48 Terrarium maintenance
48 Keep the glass clean!
49 Good care practices

50 Conclusion

Terrarium Designs Contents

 Introduction
In this book, you'll learn everything you need to know to make your very
own terrarium and how to care for it. Terrariums are a beautiful way of
displaying plants and moss in your home; the closed ecosystem makes
them very easy to look after, as they pretty much care for themselves!

What is a terrarium?
A terrarium is a miniature slice of nature in a closed container,
commonly containing various moss and plant species.

Are terrariums hard to make?

Not at all! If you're new to terrariums, it may seem daunting with all the
different elements that go into making one, but I'm here to tell you it's
not. After reading this book, you'll be geared up with everything you
need to know to start (or improve) your terrarium journey.

How long can they live?

With proper care, a terrarium can live for many years, with the oldest
know terrarium almost 60 years old! Terrariums are extremely easy to
care for and require minimal effort to thrive. I'll cover all the correct
practices to care for a terrarium in chapter 11-Care.

What can I use to make a terrarium in?

I will answer that very question on the next page; time to get started!

Terrarium Designs Page 01 Introduction

 The Vessel
Material & Clarity
You may be wondering why I'm not using the common term 'glassware'
when it comes to describing the container of a terrarium, this is because
terrariums don't need to be made from glass!

In the terrarium hobby, there's a common

misconception that a terrarium made in
anything other than glass is destined to fail,
but that is not the case! So long as the
vessel is inert (chemically inactive - will not
affect the parameters of the terrarium by
leaching chemicals) and relatively clear,
you can use almost anything to house your
terrarium. Some of my favourite unusual 2
terrarium vessels I've seen are; an apple
earphones box, plastic bottles, a Ferrero
rocher container & my personal creation, a
Tic Tac box! This opens the door to a whole
new world of terrarium ideas whilst serving
as a great way to up-cycle otherwise
useless household items.

A leading factor to be aware of when choosing a

3
vessel, no matter the material it's made from, is
clarity. I won't go into too much detail as it's
relatively self-explanatory, plants require light to
grow, and poor clarity/transparency through the
vessel equals less light for the plants. This means
you should steer away from things like beer
bottles & heavily tinted glass/plastics, it's not
impossible to make a terrarium inside a vessel like
this, but it will most certainly provide sub-optimal
conditions for the moss/plants living inside. Plus
you won't be able to see the beautiful terrarium
you have made!

Terrarium Designs Page 02 Chapter 1 - The Vessel

 Does size matter?
Yes is the simple answer, but not for the reason you might think.

4
It goes without saying that a smaller
terrarium is much cheaper to make as it
requires fewer resources, but they do
come with drawbacks. Due to their small
size, a small terrarium will require more
care and attention in the form of terrarium
maintenance. Using image 4 as an
example, the plants in this terrarium have
quickly outgrow the small jar; if left
unchecked, the terrarium will chock itself
to death due to excess plant growth. You
can minimise this problem by choosing
appropriate, slower-growing plants that
will ultimately require less upkeep. I'll dive
into this in chapter 7 (plants).

Although a smaller terrarium may require more maintenance, they are still
enjoyable to make and can no doubt live for many years if cared for properly;
also, not everyone has the space for a massive terrarium in their home.

Though they cost more, terrariums made in 5

a larger vessel come with many benefits.
They require less maintenance as the moss
& plants have much more room to grow,
larger plant species can be used, such as
ferns, but my favourite aspect of making a
terrarium in a larger vessel is the detailed
hardscapes that can be achieved, whilst a
versatile multi-species ecosystem is living
amongst it. This is not unachievable in a
terrarium on the smaller side, but it is
undoubtedly much harder to make and
even more time-consuming to maintain.

Terrarium Designs Page 03 Chapter 1 - The Vessel

 Ultimately it's your preference when it comes to size; by all means,
why not create big & small terrariums!? If you are just starting your
terrarium journey, a great beginner size I recommend is a 1-litre
masonry jar (image 6). It's not too small that it requires too much
maintenance, but is big enough to make a beautiful mini ecosystem
inside without breaking the bank.

10

11

Terrarium Designs Page 04 Chapter 1 - The Vessel

 Shape
In most cases, the shape of a terrarium can very much determine
how difficult it will be to make.

If you are new to terrarium making, I suggest

you avoid the vessels with a narrow
12
neck/tight opening (image 12 example). These
terrariums can be extremely difficult to make
as it's tough to fit materials such as; drainage,
hardscape, plants etc... through the narrow
opening. It is a good idea to choose
something that has a more accessible
entrance. However, this does not mean they
cannot be made; things such as long
terrarium tweezers & other unique tools can
help out, and if you're up for the challenge, I
suggest you give it a go. Still, I speak from
experience when I say they take much longer
to make and can certainly test your patience.
You need a lid!
13
Terrariums are a haven for tropical plants and
moss because of the high humidity they
provide. What has this got to do with a lid, you
ask? The lid of a terrarium keeps the humid air
from escaping; without it, the plants and moss
will be prone to drying up, which is undeniably
not ideal. If you opt to use something like a
clip-lid masonry jar as the vessel, it comes
with a convenient lid! (image 13)

14

But what if you want to make a terrarium

in something without a lid, such as a vase
or a bowl? In this situation, you have a
few options; buy an appropriate fitting
cork lid, this is a popular solution to
covering an open vessel, and it also gives
the terrarium a rustic look!

Terrarium Designs Page 05 Chapter 1 - The Vessel

 15
This next option is a little less popular but
is my favourite. Clear acrylic discs make
perfect lids for terrariums. They give the
terrarium a clean look and the extra
benefit that no light is blocked (unlike a
cork), which the plants will undoubtedly be
grateful for! You can get them relatively
cheap online from shops like Amazon and
eBay.
Step one
16

Cling film(saran wrap). This last option is

Step two great if you're on a budget, as almost
everyone has a roll of cling film lying around
17
in the kitchen. Simply tear off a section,
place it over the top of the terrarium and
use a rubber band or string to secure it.
Now your terrarium has a lid!

One important thing to note when

Step three improvising a lid for a terrarium is that tops
18 such as corks and acrylic discs don't
provide an airtight seal. This means
humidity will slowly be lost over time, and
the terrarium will have to be watered
slightly more frequently as a counter. I'll go
into this further in chapter 9 (watering).

19

Terrarium Designs Page 06 Chapter 1 - The Vessel

 Chapter 2 - Drainage
What is drainage in a terrarium? Also known as a false bottom, the drainage
layer is simply a layer of rocks or stones that sit at the bottom of a
terrarium. The drainage layer provides a place for excess water to build up
instead of sitting in the substrate. If the water were to sit in the substrate, it
would quickly stagnate, bringing a quick end to the terrarium's life.

What you can use:

When it comes to the types of stones/rocks that
you can use for drainage, you have a wide
selection. Pea gravel is a great choice; it is cheap
and widely accessible. However, in larger
terrariums where a significantly sizeable drainage
layer is required, the weight starts to add up; it
can get incredibly heavy by the time the
terrarium is fully complete, making it challenging
to move! Rocks from
Pea gravel LECA outside
21 22 23

20 ge
Drai na

24

I recommend LECA (lightweight expanded clay

aggregate) for a false bottom. Unlike gravel, it's
incredibly light, with the additional benefit of
holding and retaining water due to its pours
texture, meaning the total drainage volume will
be greater. You can find it at most garden
25 centres/plant shops. If you're on a budget,
rocks/ stones found outside can serve as the
drainage layer, so long as they are relatively
clean and a suitable size (one large rock will not
be an appropriate drainage layer).

Terrarium Designs Page 07 Chapter 2 - Drainage

 Do you always need a
26
drainage layer?
Like many things in this hobby, there is no
one way of doing something, and I speak
from experience when I say there are
circumstances where a drainage layer is not
100% necessary. In smaller terrariums such
as this one (image 26), it's very easy to
regulate the amount of water inside. What
does this mean? If you can precisely control
the amount of water a terrarium contains,
there will be no excess water build-up,
meaning a drainage layer is unnecessary. I'd
only recommend not using a false bottom in
D rainage terrariums around 500ml or smaller; as the
No
terrarium size gets bigger, it gets harder to
control the amount of moisture in the
terrarium precisely. Therefore, a drainage
layer is required.
27 28

How much water does a terrarium

with no drainage need?
I'll dive into this in chapter 9 (watering), but a basic rundown is; the
substrate should be damp, not wet or soggy, and a good quality substrate
mix should be used. If the terrarium has been overwatered, follow the
'overwatered terrarium procedure' in chapter 9 (watering). By all means, use
a drainage layer in a smaller terrarium if you want an extra layer of security.
If you're unsure, add a false bottom!

Terrarium Designs Page 08 Chapter 2 - Drainage

 Drainage layer depth
Drainage depth varies from terrarium to terrarium, with the primary factor
being size. The bigger the terrarium, the deeper the drainage layer should
be. Below is a table to work out the size drainage layer you should use in
different size vessels;

Terrarium Size Drainage Depth

(litres) (cm)

0.25 0 - 0.75

0.5 0 - 0.75

1 1-2

2 1-2

4 2-4

8 3-4

16 4-5

32 4-5

This table will give you a rough idea of the drainage depth to use in a
terrarium. If a terrarium falls in between the sizes shown, 3 litres for
example, choose the higher depth from the size below. So in this example, a
3-litre terrarium would require a 2 cm drainage layer. These numbers are
not set in stone, so feel free to experiment with different depths for
different size terrariums, but I have tried & tested these drainage depths to
find the optimal thickness for the respective size vessel.

Terrarium Designs Page 09 Chapter 2 - Drainage

 Chapter 3 - Substrate
Barrier
A substrate barrier is exactly as it sounds, a barrier that sits on top of the
drainage layer to prevent the substrate from getting through, it’s as simple
as that.
29 A good substrate barrier must have
these flowing characteristics; easy to
cut to size, relatively flexible/malleable,
resistant to corrosion/decomposition,
and allows water to easily penetrate
whilst retaining the substrate from
getting through.

30
My go-to material is window screen
mesh, it has all of the above
characteristics and you can buy a
reasonable size sheet for a good price
online from retailers like Amazon & eBay.
A popular alternative is weed blocker
fabric, although it may be slightly
cheaper I’ve found that water can
sometimes struggle to get through due 31
to how tightly woven it is.
How to install a substrate
barrier
To cut and install a substrate barrier all
you need to do is place your vessel on
top of the barrier, trace & cut out a
section and then place it on top of your 32
drainage layer. When cutting the
material it's a good idea to make it
slightly too big so that when it goes in
the terrarium it partially goes up the side
vessel, this will leave no gaps that the
substrate can get through.

Terrarium Designs Page 10 Chapter 3 - Substrate Barrier

 Chapter 4 - Substrate
Also known as the soil mix, the substrate is the lifeline of a terrarium's
health; get it right, and a terrarium will be set up to thrive for years to come,
get it wrong, and it can come to a speedy demise.

Substrate characteristics 33

Before I give you the mix I have used to

make 2000+ successful terrariums, I will
go over the four main characteristics of a
quality terrarium substrate. The soil mix
must; hold moisture, be well-draining,
resistant to compression, and provide
nutrients for the plants.

Let's start with holding moisture. This is

A Good Substrate an essential characteristic as the
must: moss/plants in a terrarium require a high
humidity level to thrive; if the substrate
can hold moisture well, this will keep
Hold moisture humidity high.

+ The soil mix must be able to drain water

adequately. If the substrate were to be

Be well draining poor at draining, this would cause

puddling and quickly cause the soil to

+
Be resistant to
stagnate, and as I explained in a previous
chapter, stagnated substrate equals a
dead terrarium. The water should freely

compression travel through the substrate down to the

drainage layer.

+ The soil mix should also be resistant to

compression. If the substrate is prone to
Provide Nutrients compacting, over time you’ll be left facing
the same problems as poor draining soil;
the compressed substrate will make it
very hard for water to pass through,
ultimately leading to puddling and a dead
terrarium
Terrarium Designs Page 11 Chapter 4 - Substrate
 For reasons I'm unsure of, the following characteristic is often overlooked
when composing a quality substrate mix. It's essential there is some level of
nutrients available in the substrate for the plants to use. Without them,
plants may appear healthy at first but will soon start showing signs of
deficiency and stunted growth, which is far from ideal.
34
Even some moss species will suck up nutrients
through the rhizoids to aid growth. Although
the moss would demand significantly fewer
nutrients than plants, it's still good practice to
have nutrients available if they choose to use
them. At the end of the day, the goal is to
make a mini ecosystem that can last for many
years to come, so longevity is key.

The best substrate mix

Here is the mix I use for my terrariums; 1 part coco fibre, 2 parts sphagnum
moss, 1/4 part orchid bark, 1/4 part lump wood charcoal, and 1/4 part worm
castings. These components combine to make a perfect substrate mix that
fulfils all the previously stated characteristics.

35 36 37

+ + +
40
38 39

+ =

Terrarium Designs Page 12 Chapter 4 - Substrate

 Alternatives & Substitutes
I understand that some materials can be difficult to get hold of depending
on where you live and accessibility, so I have composed a list of substitute
materials that can be used instead.

Material Substitute 1 Substitute 2

Coco fibre Tree fern fiber Potting soil

Sphagnum moss Perlite -

Orchid bark Pine bark Fir tree bark

Charcoal Activated carbon -

Worm castings Aqua soil Kelp meal

Alternatively, suppose you cannot make this mix yourself. In that case, most
ready-made terrarium substrates on the market seem to work well, but be
sure to determine if the pre-made soil meets all the characteristics I have
described.

How to apply substrate

You may think this is relatively self-
explanatory, and you are correct for the
most part, but there are a few things to
keep in mind when adding the substrate
to a terrarium. Let's start with how much
you need; a good rule of thumb for
substrate depth is to use no less than the
thickness of the drainage layer. For
example, if the false bottom were 2cm,
you would want a minimum substrate
depth of 2cm. This does have exceptions
when it comes to a moss-only terrarium,
as it can be planted on a much shallower
41 substrate and still thrive.

Terrarium Designs Page 13 Chapter 4 - Substrate

 42

The next thing to be aware of when

adding the substrate to a terrarium is
ensuring the substrate slopes towards
the back (see image 42). The slope will
help create a strong sense of depth,
which will lend itself nicely when it
comes to making the hardscape.

Once the substrate is in the terrarium, gently compact it using the back of
your hand or something like a terrarium tool (a sick with a cork on the end).
Do not over-compact the substrate by applying too much pressure.

OR

43 44

Stick Cork Terrarium tool

45 46 47

+ =
Terrarium Designs Page 14 Chapter 4 - Substrate
 Chapter 5 - Hardscape
What is hardscape?
The term hardscape is used to describe objects such as rocks, stones, wood,
and sticks/twigs inside a terrarium. It often helps form a skeleton that can
be brought to life with moss & plants.
What I love about the hardscape of a terrarium is that it can be as simple or
as complex as you want. Image 48 features a terrarium with an elaborate
hardscape made to resemble tree roots crawling down over rocks. Where as
image 49 is a much more straightforward hardscape with a greater focus on
the feature plant. Image 50 is somewhere in between. All three are beautiful
in their own respect.
Complex Simple

48 49

Intermediate
50

Terrarium Designs Page 15 Chapter 5 - Hardscape

 There is such a versatile array of different materials to choose from when
designing the hardscape for a terrarium. Some examples are; black lava
rock, red lava rock, dragon stone, slate stone, seriyu stone, driftwood and
spider wood. For the most naturalistic-looking terrarium, I recommend
sticking one type of rock and using wood as an accent or vice versa.

Black lava rock Red lava rock Dragon stone

51 52 53

Slate stone Seiryu stone Driftwood

54 55 56

Spiderwood Black lava rock + Spiderwood

57 58

Terrarium Designs Page 16 Chapter 5 - Hardscape

 How to design an effective hardscape
When making the hardscape for your terrarium, my best advice would be to
make a layout that YOU are happy with. After all, it's your terrarium, and you
should make a layout that you think looks good without worrying about
others' opinions.

But if you are looking to make a more widely

aesthetically pleasing layout, then here are
some good practices to follow; ensure the
substrate is sloped towards the back, this
will help improve the sense of depth. 59

Start with the larger hardscape pieces and

work your way down to the smallest. Take
your time and experiment with numerous
different layouts before settling on one. It's
worth it to spend that extra bit of time
perfecting your hardscape, as once the
moss and plants are in, it's very
60
problematic to change.

Hardscape one Hardscape two Hardscape three

61 62 63

Terrarium Designs Page 17 Chapter 5 - Hardscape

 64

Hardscape to avoid
Steer away from using anything that is
showing signs of excess decomposition.
The fragile balance of a terrarium's
ecosystem may struggle to stay stable if
large decomposing materials are used.
Wood and bark that is soft and flakey are
likely to be decomposing and should not
be used in a terrarium. Look for pieces that
are firm to the touch and show no signs of
rotting.

Do you need hardscape?

No, you certainly do not. Beautiful
terrarium designs can be made from
plants alone by taking advantage of
the textures and details different
plants provide. You can also go to the
other end of the spectrum with a
minimalist single plant set-up; these
terrariums are simple and easy to
make whilst still being left with a
beautiful result.

65

Terrarium Designs Page 18 Chapter 5 - Hardscape

 Chapter 6 - Moss
Terrariums and moss go hand in hand as if they were made for each-other.
The high humidity environment is perfect for most moss species to thrive
in, but what moss should you use? Keep on reading!
66
Cushion moss
Leucobryum Glaucum, more commonly known
as cushion moss, is one of the most popular
mosses in the terrarium hobby, and I'm not
surprised. It's super easy to grow, forgiving in
dry conditions and has a beautiful vibrant
green pillow-like appearance. Leucobryum
Glaucum's growth rate is relatively slow
compared to some of the others; this isn't
necessarily a negative as it makes it ideal for
terrariums on the smaller side. A slower
growth speed equals less terrarium
maintenance.

Cushion moss terrariums

67 68

Terrarium Designs Page 19 Chapter 6 - Moss

 Fern moss
Thuidium Delicatulum, better known as
69
fern moss. This is a beautiful moss that, as
you could have probably guessed,
resembles miniature fern leaves. This
makes it great for forest/jungle-themed
terrariums due to its wild, natural look.
Similar to cushion moss, it is very forgiving
in dry conditions. When humidity
drastically drops, the moss will enter a
'dormant phase'; it is still very much alive
but will have a shrivelled-up appearance
and will not grow. As soon as water is
reintroduced, the moss springs back to
life, with its once shrivelled-looking leaves
opening back into its fern-like
resemblance.

It's a very fast growing moss; however, its growth can begin to appear leggy
in lower light conditions. This is where it's stretching for the light. Leggy
growth doesn't necessarily mean the moss is not healthy, as fern moss can
still thrive in low light, but if you're looking for more low/compact growth,
it's worth getting a relatively bright LED for the terrarium to sit under.

Fern moss terrariums

70 71 72

Terrarium Designs Page 20 Chapter 6 - Moss

 Mood moss
Mood moss (Dicranum Scoparium) is 73
also a prevalent moss in the hobby. It
looks similar to cushion moss but grows
much faster; its leaves grow upwards to
form a wavy appearance which many
people find appealing, and I agree. Due
to it’s fast growth rate, mood moss will
need to be trimmed frequently,
especially in smaller terrariums. You
can always use the extra trimmings to
make another terrarium!

Mood moss terrariums

74 75

Aquatic moss
Aquatic moss grows underwater and is
very popular in the aquarium hobby.
But, unknown to some, many aquatic
moss species grow exceptionally well in
a terrarium. Unfortunately, one thing
they all have in common is that they are
prone to drying out. If you plan on using
aquatic moss in a terrarium, its essential
humidity is kept high; after all, aquatic
mosses ordinarily grow underwater. I
have included the best aquatic moss
species in the moss table on the next 76
page.

Terrarium Designs Page 21 Chapter 6 - Moss

 The best moss to use in terrariums
In this table, I have listed the best mosses to use in terrariums with an
individual difficulty level, and other helpful information about using them in
a terrarium.

Scientific Growth Recommended

Common name Difficulty Origin
name speed placement

Leucobryum
Cushion moss Slow Foreground Easy North America
Glaucum

Thuidium Midground /
Fern moss Fast Easy Worldwide
Delicatulum Background

Dicranum
Mood moss Medium Foreground Easy Europe
Scoparium

Bryum
Thread moss Slow Foreground Easy Worldwide
Argenteum

Foreground /
Star moss Tortula Ruralis Medium Medium Worldwide
midground

Live sphagnum Sphagnum Northern

Medium Background Easy
moss moss Hemisphere

Northern
Hypnum moss Hypnum moss Medium Foreground Medium
Hemisphere

Java moss Taxiphyllum

Fast Foreground Easy Asia
(aquatic) Barbieri

Weeping moss Vesicularia

Fast Foreground Medium Asia
(aquatic) Ferriei

Christmas moss Vesicularia

Medium Foreground Medium Asia
(aquatic) Montagnei

Riccardia
Coral moss Foreground /
Chamedryfolia Slow Medium Asia
(aquatic) Midground

21
Terrarium Designs Page 22 Chapter 6 - Moss
Cushion moss Thread moss Star moss

77 78 79

Sphagnum moss Hypnum moss Java moss

80 81 82

Weeping moss Christmas moss Coral moss

83 84 85

Terrarium Designs Page 23 Chapter 7 - Plants

Moss from outside
A common question regarding moss for
terrariums is, 'can I use moss I find outside
for my terrariums?' The answer is yes, but
remember that some moss species just
don't do well in a terrarium. I like to say
terrarium making is all about trial & error,
so it's definitely worth trying out some of
the mosses that grow locally to you. For
example, the moss in image 86 grows in the
gaps of the slabs in my garden, and I know
for a fact it will grow well in a terrarium as I
have tried & tested it many times.
Unfortunately, I can't say the same about
every species of moss I have tested. 86

If you're on a budget and need moss

for your terrarium, why not try finding
it yourself? This could be in your
garden, growing on bricks or even
gaps in the pavement. But keep in
mind there is a chance it may not
enjoy life in a terrarium.

87

88 89

Terrarium Designs Page 24 Chapter 6 - Moss

 Take small chunks
That being said, there are one or two
good practices to follow when collecting
moss from nature. Instead of taking all
the moss from one location, take small
chunks from several different places. This
will help minimise the impact on the
ecosystem the moss was taken from, as
most patches of moss serve as a home
for small bugs and insects. It also allows 90
the moss that you leave behind to regrow Only take what you need!
much faster. This practice goes hand in
hand with the next; only take what you
need! If you take more moss than you can
use, some will likely go to waste. Instead,
only take what you need as and when you
need it. After all, we are trying to re-
create nature, NOT destroy it!

91
How to plant moss
It couldn't be more straightforward when
it comes to planting moss, simply lay it on
top of the substrate and gently pat it
down with your finger or a terrarium tool.
Try to ensure the base of the moss is in
contact with the substrate, this will allow
the moss to suck up moisture like a wick
to keep it from drying out.
92

Mosses like cushion moss & mood moss

often come with a rather unnecessarily
large stem. In this situation, you can take
some scissors and cut the stem down to
the desired height (see image 93). Don't
worry, this will not hurt the moss.

93

Terrarium Designs Page 25 Chapter 6 - Moss

 Mossariums
I couldn't discuss moss without talking about mossariums. A mossarium is a
terrarium only planted with moss; they are extremely simple to make, which
might be why they are so popular! To achieve the most natural look, use
multiple moss species to create different textures and details in the
terrarium. Alternatively, you can use one species to make a more
straightforward, minimalist terrarium. If you don't have a mossarium in your
collection already, you need one!

94 95

96 97

Terrarium Designs Page 26 Chapter 6 - Moss

 Chapter 7 - Plants
Plants bring terrariums to life! For the most natural-looking terrarium, use a
wide range of; species, leaf shapes, textures and sizes.

Before plants After plants

98 99

The best plants to use in

a terrarium
Due to the high humidity terrariums
provide, choosing appropriate plants
that can live in these conditions is
essential. Most tropical plants tend to
do very well in terrariums as they are
from parts of the world where humidity
is high, but it's important to understand
that not every plant will enjoy life in a
terrarium. Plants that originate from
colder climates will generally struggle
adjusting to the humid conditions,
unfortunately resulting in them dying.
Similar to mosses, there is an element
of trial & error when it comes to plants
that do well in a terrarium, but luckily
100 for you, I have done the bulk of that
testing in the form of thousands of
terrariums.

Terrarium Designs Page 27 Chapter 7 - Plants

 In this table, I have listed some of the best plants to use in a terrarium and
some helpful information about them.

Common Scientific Growth

Difficulty Description Size Origin
name name rate

Comes in many
different colours and
Fittonia South
Fittonia Easy leaf shapes. The most Medium Medium
Albivenis America
popular plant in the
terrarium hobby

A must have
terrarium plant, in Central /
Gray Artillery
Pilea Glauca Easy certain lighting it’s Small Fast South
plant
leaves can have a America
iridescent shimmer

Callisia A small leaf plant that South

Turtle vine Easy Small Very fast
Repens grows extremely fast America

An aquatic plant that

New
Hydrocotyle Hydrocotyle grows great in
Easy Small Very fast Zealand /
Tripartita Tripartita terrariums. Strong
Australia
climbing tendencies

A fast growing
Creeping fig Ficus Pumila Easy climbing plant with Medium Fast East Asia
lush green leaves

A ‘rare’ plant in the

Oak leaf Ficus Pumila
Medium hobby, perfect for Small Slow East Asia
creeping fig Quercifolia
small terrariums

has beautiful deep

Peperomia Peperomia South
Easy red new growth with Medium Medium
Caperata Caperata America
deep ridged leaves

Forms low bushy

Peperomia Peperomia South
Easy growth that ads great Medium Medium
Milano Milano America
texture to a terrarium

Peperomia Peperomia A tall growing plant

South
Verticillata Verticillata Easy that has beautiful Medium Medium
America
detailed leaves

Terrarium Designs Page 28 Chapter 7 - Plants

 Scientific Growth
Common name Difficulty Description Size Origin
name rate

Peperomia Has thick dark-green

Peperomia South
Piccolo Easy leaves with stunning Medium Medium
Piccolo Blanda America
Blanda silver tones

A trailing plant that

has stunning turtle
String of Peperomia South
Medium backed leaves, Small Slow
turtles Prostrata America
doesn’t like sitting
on wet substrate.

A slow growing fern Africa, Asia

Actiniopteris with small delicate Australia,
Eyelash fern Easy Medium Slow
australis leaves that resemble Middle
eyelashes East

A bushy fern that is

great for medium-
Nephrolepis America /
Boston fern Easy large terrariums. Medium Medium
Exaltata Africa
Vibrant green in
colour.

Tall delicate leaves

Asparagus fern Asparagus South
Easy with a detailed Large Medium
Setaceus Africa
‘fluffy‘ appearance

Fittonia Gray Artillery plant Turtle Vine

101 102 103

Terrarium Designs Page 29 Chapter 7 - Plants

Hydrocotyle Oak leaf
Tripartita Creeping fig creeping fig
104 105 106

Peperomia Peperomia
Caperata Verticillata String of turtles
107 108 109

Eyelash Fern Boston Fern Asparagus Fern

110 111 112

Terrarium Designs Page 30 Chapter 7 - Plants

 Best plants for small
terrariums
Plants that stay small and are relatively slow growing are best for small
terrariums. Refer to the plant table on the previous page and look for; size:
small, growth speed: slow.
113
Small, fast-growing plants can still
be used but be aware that more
maintenance will be required. This
is not necessarily bad, as terrarium
maintenance gives you a chance to
overview the terrarium's health
more than you otherwise would.

Do plants need roots? How to propagate!

Contrary to popular belief, many plant species can be planted into a
terrarium without a single root in sight. This is because the high humidity
inside a terrarium creates the perfect conditions for plants to root and grow
from cuttings. Let me explain; let's say I take a Pilea Glauca cutting from the
mother plant, I will then plant the bare stem of that cutting into the
substrate/moss. The Pilea Glauca cutting will then begin to grow roots (in as
little as a week for this species) and essentially become a completely
separate & independent plant. This is known as plant propagation. It's a
great way of multiplying your plants to grow your collection! All the plants I
have listed in the previous table can be used in a terrarium without roots
except; Boston fern, Eyelash fern and Asparagus fern. I've found these
plants struggle to establish themselves without roots.
Take cutting Plant stem We have roots!

114 115 116

Terrarium Designs Page 31 Chapter 7 - Plants

 Chapter 8 - Microfauna
The term 'microfauna' describes tiny (often microscopic) creatures that live
in the soil.

Is microfauna good? 117

Often times when people see tiny bugs and
critters living inside a terrarium, they
instantly panic and start searching for a
'cure'. Now for the truth! Microfauna in a
terrarium is indispensable. The small bugs will
go around the terrarium and eat things that
could be harmful to the delicate balance of
the ecosystem, this comes in the form of;
dead leaves, dead/dying plants, decaying
wood/twigs, mould and much more. If not
consumed by the microfauna, this
decomposing matter will prove fatal to the
terrarium if not manually removed. Instead of
tediously pulling out every piece of mould
and dead leaf you find, it's easier and much
more effective to have microfauna do the job
for you!
118
Despite everything I've just
mentioned, arguably, their
most valuable quality is still
to come! The decaying matter
and mould the microfauna
consume is processed and
then deposited back into the
terrarium, but this time in the
form of valuable nutrients
that the plants will use to
grow.

Terrarium Designs Page 32 Chapter 8 - Microfauna

 Microfauna comes in all shapes and sizes, with the most popular (& most
effective) being springtails. I have dedicated a separate segment for
springtails on page 35.

119 Isopods
One of the largest types of microfauna are
isopods, more commonly known as
woodlice, roly-pollys, slaters, cochinilla
and a dictionary of other common names
that vary depending on where you live. As
I previously stated, isopods are one of the
biggest types of microfauna used in a
terrarium; this means they should be
housed in an appropriate-sized terrarium.
I would not recommend introducing
isopods into a terrarium any smaller the 2
litres (0.45 gallons).

120

One big selling point for isopods is

that they come in various colours,
shapes & sizes, making them great
miniature terrarium pets!

121

Terrarium Designs Page 33 Chapter 8 - Microfauna

Mites
122
Mites. They are often seen as pests and
unwelcome in a terrarium, but like
everything in an ecosystem, they also play
a role in the upkeep of a healthy
terrarium. Don't get me wrong, certain
species of mites can reap havoc in a
terrarium by slowly consuming plants and
eating roots. Luckily these don't come
around often in terrariums. The mites I'm
talking about are soil mites. They are
much more common, but more
importantly, they are beneficial to the
health of a terrarium.

These miniature arthropods aid in a very similar way to isopods and

springtails, breaking down and consuming decaying organic matter.

123

Unfortunately, soil mites are 124

not entirely innocent;
although they pose no threat
to isopods, adult soil mites
are known to eat young
springtails.

Terrarium Designs Page 34 Chapter 8 - Microfauna

 Springtails
If you're only going to have one species of microfauna in a terrarium,
choose these! Obviously, I'm talking about springtails. These tiny Hexapods
are like mini housekeepers that will literally clean your terrarium 24/7!
Springtails are often kept in separate 'cultures', which I will explain how to
make on the next page. When seeding a terrarium with springtails, only 10-
20 need to be introduced. They will get straight to work cleaning the
terrarium by consuming decaying matter and mould.

125 126

One huge benefit of springtails is that 127

their population will fluctuate depending
on available food in the terrarium. If there
is an abundance of food (decaying
matter/mould), the population of
springtails will grow to consume the food
quickly. If there is a scarce food supply in
the terrarium, springtails will remain, but
in lower numbers. Springtail's ability to
efficiently self-regulate their population
makes them the superior species of
microfauna!

Terrarium Designs Page 35 Chapter 8 - Microfauna

 How to make a springtail culture
Having a springtail culture is very convenient as you can quickly seed a new
terrarium with springtails instead of buying more every time you make a
terrarium. To make the culture, you will need; a tub with a tight-fitting lid (1
litre +), lump wood charcoal, a small springtail starter culture, and some fish
food flakes or rice to feed them.

128 129 130 131

132
Start by washing out the tub with
clean water. Next, fill it roughly
3/4 of the way full with lump
wood charcoal; if the chunks are
too big, you can break them down
with a hammer. Now pour in
water until there is roughly a 2cm 133
(0.8 ") puddle at the bottom of
the tub. Time to introduce the
springtails! If your starter cutler is
composed of charcoal or clay
pebbles, you can simply pour it in, Wate
r level
but if the starter culture is
composed of soil, follow the 134
process I explain on the following
page.

Terrarium Designs Page 36 Chapter 8 - Microfauna

 135 If your starter culture is composed from
soil, do this; place a piece of charcoal on
top of the soil inside the starter culture,
next place some fish food flakes or a
couple of grains of rice on the charcoal.
Leave the culture until the next day. After
24 hours, you'll see that the springtails will
136 have found their way onto the charcoal to
eat the food, at this point, you can grab the
piece of charcoal with some tweezers and
place it into your newly made culture.
Repeat this for 2-3 days, and the majority
of the starter culture will be empty.
138
137

139 It's very straightforward to

care for a springtail
culture. Open the culture
every two days to let fresh
air in, feed the springtails
1-4 grains of rice at a time
(a small pinch of fish
flakes), and only feed again
when almost all the
previous food has been
eaten. That's all there is to
it!

springtails are often sold in amphibian & reptile shops, but

you can also find them online.

Terrarium Designs Page 37 Chapter 8 - Microfauna

 How to remove microfauna
If you have used moss from outside, there is likely a number of microfauna
already present inside the moss, this is convenient as you don't have to
introduce them to the terrarium yourself. But if you don't want any
microfauna to be introduced from the moss, follow this process; submerge
the moss in water and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Most of the microfauna will
float to the surface, repeat 2-3 times with clean water each time. This will
never remove everything living in the moss, but it will undoubtedly
eliminate most, especially if repeated multiple times.

140 141 142

Terrarium Designs Page 38 Chapter 8 - Microfauna

How microfauna survives in a
terrarium 143
So how do microfauna survive in a closed
ecosystem with no access to air?! Surely
they would suffocate, right? That's where
you are wrong! These creatures are so
small they create minimal bio load, and
the plants/moss will produce sufficient
oxygen for them to thrive. In turn, the
microfauna keeps the terrarium clean by
eating decaying organic matter and mould.
As I mentioned a few pages back, the
microfauna will also turn their food
(decaying matter/mould) into fertiliser for
the plants and moss. Together, the plants
and microfauna form a symbiotic
relationship, where both are better off
because of it.

144

Terrarium Designs Page 39 Chapter 8 - Microfauna

 Chapter 9 - Watering
145
The types of water to use
Before going over how much water you
should be putting in a terrarium, we
need to talk about the types of water
that are suitable to use. Try to avoid
regular tap water as it contains
chemicals that could harm the delicate
balance of a terrarium's ecosystem.
Instead, use one of the following; rain
water, bottled water, RO water, filtered
water, distilled water or dechlorinated
water. These are much better choices as
they contain no (or very little)
chemicals.
146 147

How much water does a terrarium need

The answer to this question will vary for every terrarium and depends on
factors such as; size, amount of substrate used and how damp the substrate
was before being introduced to the terrarium. For these reasons, I cannot
give you an exact answer to how much water you should put in your
terrarium, but I'll tell you the process I follow on the next page.

Terrarium Designs Page 40 Chapter 9 - Watering

 147
Use something like a fine mist spray bottle
or a pipette; tools like these allow you to
precisely control the amount of water you
are putting in the terrarium. The substrate
should be damp, NOT wet or soggy. Image
148 is an example of a terrarium with a
damp substrate, and image 149 is a wet
substrate. As you can see, there is a clear
difference.

148 149

150 Spread the watering process out over 2-3

days. After making a terrarium, give it a
little water, but less than you think it
might need. Monitor for 24 hours, if the
substrate still looks dry, water again, but
just a little. Continue this process until
the substrate is damp. This is the best
way to ensure the terrarium is not being
overwatered.

Terrarium Designs Page 41 Chapter 9 - Watering

 How to tell if a terrarium has
been overwatered
The quickest and easiest way to tell if a terrarium has become a victim of
overwatering is by looking at the substrate. If it appears wet and saturated,
there is certainly too much water inside. If not fixed, the terrarium's days
are numbered. To fix an overwatered terrarium, follow the procedure below.

Overwaterd terrarium 151

procedure
1. Start by opening up the terrarium and
removing the condensation from the
glass; for this, use a tissue or cloth.
Removing the condensation off the
inside of the vessel will reduce the
amount of water in the terrarium.

152

2. Leave the terrarium open for 1-2 hours.

By doing this, water will be able to
evaporate from the terrarium. In extreme
cases, a pipette can be gently pushed
into the drainage layer, where water can
be manually removed.

153

3. Close the terrarium and closely

monitor it for 6-12 hours. If the substrate
is still too saturated, repeat the above
steps.

Terrarium Designs Page 42 Chapter 9 - Watering

 Watering a mature terrarium
All terrariums will need to be watered (after the initial watering) at some
point or another. How long between watering will depend on factors such
as; the type of vessel, terrarium size, and the lid used.

Airtight terrariums 154

These are terrariums that are 100% sealed,
including jars with gaskets and DIY cling film
(saran wrap) lids. These terrariums will require
much less water as none can escape through
evaporation. But this does not mean they will
never need to be watered again. After some
time (roughly a year for most sealed
terrariums), the moss and plants inside would
have used up most of the available water to
grow, after all, plants can be up to 95% water!

155 Before you water the terrarium, take a look at

the substrate, moss, and plants inside; if the
substrate is still damp and the moss & plants
show no signs of drying up, the terrarium does
not need to be watered. But, if the terrarium is
looking a little dry, follow the same procedure
as watering a new terrarium and water until the
substrate is damp. Keep in mind that a mature
terrarium will most often require significantly
less water than a newly made terrarium.

Doesn’t
need
water!

Terrarium Designs Page 43 Chapter 9 - Watering

 Non-airtight terrariums
All other mature terrariums - this includes terrariums with cork lids, acrylic
lids and any other lid that does not provide an airtight seal.

156
These terrariums allow more moisture to
leave through evaporation due to the lids.
Bare in mind watering frequency will still
vary from terrarium to terrarium. For
example, the terrarium in image 156
requires a couple of sprays of water every
2-3 months because of the fast plant
growth, its small size, and the cork lid.

Unfortunately, I can't give you an exact amount of time you should be

watering a terrarium as each one is unique. Instead, take note of the
terrarium's moisture level every two weeks or so. Look at the substrate and
moss; if they appear damp, watering is not necessary. But if they seem dry,
it's time to water the terrarium. Follow the same practice as watering a new
terrarium, don't forget a mature terrarium will likely require less water than
a newly made one.

157 In conclusion, it's all about

learning the watering routine for
your terrarium, as each and every
one is unique. If you're ever in
doubt, remember, it's much better
to underwater than overwater!
158

Needs
water!

Terrarium Designs Page 44 Chapter 9 - Watering

 Chapter 10 - Lighting
159
Direct sunlight
Before I talk about the proper ways to
light a terrarium, I should mention
that a terrarium should NOT be kept
in direct sunlight, the intensified light
and heat will cook the moss and
plants inside. Instead, choose one of
the following options.

Natural light
The most popular way to grow a terrarium is in natural sunlight, indirect
sunlight, I should say. This is an acceptable way of growing a cost-effective
terrarium, plus you haven’t got to turn on a switch everyday where you
would with artificial light. However, the main problem with growing a
terrarium in indirect sunlight is that you need to find the sweet spot,
somewhere that doesn’t receive any direct sunlight but is still bright enough
for the moss and plants to grow.

You may already have a place in 160

mind, but if not, take a walk around
your home when the sun is out; this
will clearly outline the areas that are
out of bounds due to direct sunlight,
and make it easier for you to find the
perfect place! Once you find the
sweet spot, your terrarium is bound
to thrive! Additionally, this is a
budget-friendly option as you don’t
have to purchase any extra lighting.

Terrarium Designs Page 45 Chapter 10 - Lighting

Artificial light
This is my preferred method of lighting a 161
terrarium and is the way I often recommend.
Using artificial light such as LEDs gives you the
freedom to place a terrarium wherever you
want as you are not limited to natural light
‘sweet spots’, and it can unquestionably help
make the terrarium a centrepiece of your living
space. Also, artificial light provides year-round
consistency where natural light doesn’t; a
cloudy day will result in less light for the
terrarium. More importantly, winter daylight
hours can drop to as little as 7 hours 49
minutes (London, 2023). It goes without saying
that less light equals less plant growth, having
an led light eliminates these drawbacks.

162 I recommend a 5w-10w led light in terms

of power consumption and white when it
comes to temperature (5500k-7500k);
this best replicates natural sunlight. A
good lighting cycle is 12 hours on and 12
hours off, this provides the optimum
time period for plant growth. Want to
take it to the next level? You can get a
digital plug timer that you can
programme to turn the terrarium light on
and off automatically! This is extremely
useful if you’re often away from home or
just forgetful...

Terrarium Designs Page 46 Chapter 10 - Lighting

 Chapter 11 - Care
163

With proper care, a terrarium can live

for many years! But how do you actually
care for a terrarium?

As I mentioned in the previous chapter,

terrariums should NOT be kept in direct
sunlight, keep in a bright spot in indirect
sunlight, or under LED lights.

Keep away from heaters! Do not place the terrarium beside or above a
heater. The heat will slowly cook everything inside. Most terrariums don't
require a heater and will do perfectly well at room temperature.

Mould phase 164

Within the first few weeks of a terrarium's life, it
may go through a 'mould phase'. Mould will
predominately grow on materials such as wood.
Don't worry, as this is just a phase and nine
times out of ten, it will clear up on its own with
help from microfauna such as springtails, but if
there is excess mould that is not budging on its
own, it's time to remove it manually. To do this,
you can use; long tweezers, your hands, or an
old toothbrush to gently pull the mould out.

165

Terrarium Designs Page 47 Chapter 11 - Care

 Terrarium maintenance
Some like to keep on top of terrarium maintenance to keep the terrarium
looking new, and others like to let nature take over. The choice is yours. But
love it or hate it, terrarium maintenance will need to take place at one point
or another. If left unchecked, fast-growing plants will smother other slow-
growing plants and will essentially end in all of them dying. Trimming plants
is as easy as grabbing a pair of scissors and cutting away, and why not use
the extra cutting to make another terrarium?

166 167

168
Keep the glass clean!
Although I said you can let a terrarium go
wild, keeping the glass clean should still
be a priority. As a terrarium ages, things
like algae and dead plant matter will start
to build up on the inside of the terrarium.
This is far from ideal, as valuable light will
be blocked from reaching the plants, and
as we all know, plants need light to grow.
When you see a build-up on the inside of
the vessel, be sure to clean it off with
some paper towel or a cloth, your plants
will certainly be grateful!

Terrarium Designs Page 48 Chapter 11 - Care

Good care practices
169
Open the terrarium every month or so for 5
minutes to let some fresh air inside. This isn't
mandatory, but it can help keep the
ecosystem inside of the terrarium thriving. A
terrarium in perfect balance will not need to
be opened, but it's easier said than done to
make a perfectly balanced ecosystem. After
all, letting fresh air in every now and then will
only do the terrarium good; just be sure not
to leave the terrarium open for too long, as
the moss and plants may begin to dry up due
to the humidity dropping.

If you want to take terrarium care to the

170
next level, you should check up on the
terrarium every 1-2 weeks and note down
how it is doing. This includes; plant
growth, moss growth, colour change in
moss and plants, any noticeable mould
and how damp the substrate is. Doing this
will allow you to see every little change
that is happening in the mini-ecosystem
of the terrarium. By closely monitoring
the terrarium you can ensure it stays
healthy, more accurately predict when it
needs watering and create an overall
closer connection to your terrarium and
its ecosystem. In addition, it's also useful
to take pictures or a short video of the
terrarium, this way you can look back and
see the transformation of your terrarium!

Terrarium Designs Page 49 Chapter 11 - Care

 Conclusion

In conclusion, terrarium making is a great low-maintenance DIY project that

will undoubtedly have you hooked for the long term. Be sure to experiment
with different styles of terrariums ranging from small to large and
everything in-between!

Making your own terrarium is such a rewarding and satisfying experience,

there is just something about creating a mini slice of nature that is so
fulfilling. Now you know everything you need to make a terrarium, go and
unleash your creativity by making your own small ecosystems!

If you have any further questions about any of the topics I have covered,
don’t hesitate to get in touch by emailing: [email protected]

Terrarium Designs Page 50 Conclusion