Handbook of Value Addition

Processes for Fabrics

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Preface xxiii
1 Value addition processes and pretreatment 1
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6 Fabric dyeing in open width 81
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11 Radio frequency dryers 163

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13 Scouring and milling of woolfabrics 185

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15 Weight reduction process of polyester fabrics 203
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16 Peaching (sueding) of fabrics 217
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17 Raising operation on fabrics 229

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21 Suprema—KD Biella Shrunk Process 281

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22 Mechanical shrink-proo¿ng for fabrics 293
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23 Calendering of fabrics 315

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25 Digital printing of textile fabrics 353

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1.3 Machinery for textile value addition processes

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 2
Singeing and desizing of fabrics

2.1 Introduction
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12 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

Singeing machine without Singeing cum desizing machine

desizing (Osthoff) (Osthoff)
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Singeing and desizing of fabrics 13

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14 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

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2.2 Purpose of singeing the fabrics

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2.3 Purpose of desizing

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Singeing and desizing of fabrics 15

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2.4 What singeing should and should not do?

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16 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

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2.6 General activities in singeing and desizing of fabrics

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Singeing and desizing of fabrics 17

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18 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

2.7 Operating instructions for operating a

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500 Litres of water

Fill the water to complete 5000 Litres

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Singeing and desizing of fabrics 19

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20 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

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2.8 Precautions to be taken for singeing and desizing

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2.9 Control points and checkpoints

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2.9.1 Control points

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22 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

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2.10 Normal problems in singeing and desizing of

fabrics
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Singeing and desizing of fabrics 23

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2.11 Dos and don’ts for singeing and desizing of fabrics

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24 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

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Singeing and desizing of fabrics 25

2.12 Responsibilities and authorities of supervisor in

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Scouring and washing

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28 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

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Scouring and washing 29

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3.2.1 What kier boiling should and should not do?

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30 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

3.2.2 General activities in kier boiling

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Scouring and washing 31

3.2.3 Knowledge required for kier boiling

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3.2.5 Precautions to be taken for kier boiling

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3.2.6 Control points and checkpoints for kier boiling

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Mercerizing of fabrics 49

4.2.1 What chain mercerization should and should not do?

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4.2.2 Quality of mercerizing

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4.2.4 Typical operating procedure of a chain mercerizing

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58 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

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4.2.5 Precautions to be taken for mercerizing using caustic

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using caustic soda
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4.2.7 Dos and don’ts for chain mercerizing using caustic

soda
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4.3 Liquid ammonia (LA) mercerizing of cellulose fibres

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4.3.1 Benefits of LA mercerizing

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64 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

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4.3.2 Standard operating procedure for LA mercerizing

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4.3.3 Dos and Don’ts for LA mercerizing

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68 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

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4.3.4 Normal problems in fabric mercerizing

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4.4 Responsibilities and authorities of supervisor in

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4.5 Mercerizing of knitted fabrics in tubes

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7.4.1 Overflow dyeing machine

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14.5 Dos and Don’ts

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 15
Weight reduction process of polyester fabrics

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15.5 Typical process sheet for weight reduction

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18.1 What is shearing?

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18.2 Different applications of shearing

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18.3 How does a shearing machine work?

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18.4 Modern shearing machines

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18.5 Typical operating procedure

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18.6 Control points and checkpoints

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18.7 Dos and Don’ts

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Decatizing

19.1 What is decatizing?

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20.5 Dos and Don’ts

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21.1 Purpose and concepts

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21.5 Dos and Don’ts

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22.3 Comfit
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22.4.5 Dos and Don’ts for relax shrinking

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23.4.5 Swizzing effect

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23.4.6 Multifunctional up and down double-sided press

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23.4.7 Friction calender

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23.5 Typical working procedure for a friction calender

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23.5.1 Terminating the production of calender machine

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Calendering of fabrics 327

23.6 Control points and checkpoints

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23.6.1 Control points

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23.6.2 Checkpoints
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Calendering of fabrics 329

23.7 Dos and Don’ts

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23.7.1 Dos
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23.7.2 Don’ts
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Figure 23.11 6\QWKHWLFUROOHU

330 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

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 24
Printing of textile materials

24.1 Introduction
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24.2 Steps in printing

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332 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

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24.2.1 Printing flowchart of 100% synthetic fabrics

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QRWUHTXLUHGIRUV\QWKHWLFIDEULFDVLWGRHVQRWFRQWDLQLPSXULWLHV7KHSULQWLQJ
ÀRZFKDUWGHSHQGVRQWKH¿EUH)ROORZLQJLVWKHEDVLFFKDUW )LJ 

Fabric to be printed Stitching Washing

Printing Stentering Jet dyeing

Polymerizing Washing Stentering

Packing Rolling or folding Calendering

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XQGHUVWDQGLQJRIWKHFRPSOHWHVHTXHQFHDQGFKHPLFDOV

24.2.2 Printing flowchart of 100% cotton fabrics

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FRQWDLQVDQXPEHURILPSXULWLHV+HQFHFRWWRQIDEULFVQHHGWREHSUHWUHDWHG
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Fabric to be printed - Inspection Stitching Shearing or cropping

Scouring Washing Desizing Singeing

Bleaching Washing Stentering Printing

Calendering Washing Steaming

Inspection Folding or rolling Packing

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Printing of textile materials 333

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24.2.3 Printing process flow of plastic solution

(high-density printing process)
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Fabric to be Table Fabric plaited

Pre-treatment
printed preparation on the table

Curing at 160°C – Belt speed 3 Mtr High density paste applied by using
per minute screen

Delivery

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24.2.4 Sequence of discharge printing process on cotton:

discharge printing style
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Fabric preparation Table preparation Fabric plaited on the table

Curing at 190°C – Belt speed 3 Mtr Apply printing paste with the help
per min of the screen

Delivery

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334 Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics

24.2.5 Process flow of emboss printing: pub printing

process
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Fabric preparation Table preparation Fabric plaited on the table

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Figure 24.5 3URFHVVÀRZIRUHPERVVSULQWLQJ

24.2.6 Sequence of glitter printing process on textile

materials
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Fabric preparation
Table preparation Fabric plaited on the table
– pre-treatment

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24.2.7 Process flow of Inkjet printing

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Printing of textile materials 335

Input Apply 2.5% to Evaporate Ink Evaporate

PFP 10% of Aqua water using jet water using
Textile Hue 2630 heating print heating
element element

Input
Pre treated
Textile
Output Cure using Apply 2.5% to
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textile element Hue 2624

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24.3 Traditional styles of printing

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LWLVNQRZQDVRYHUSULQWLQJ7KHGHVLUHGSDWWHUQLVSURGXFHGE\SUHVVLQJ
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24.5 Preparation of cloth for printing

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26.5 Advantages of garment washing

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26.6 Different washing methods

26.6.1 Normal wash

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26.6.1.1 Typical procedure for normal washing

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26.6.2 Pigment wash

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26.6.3 Bleach wash

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Garment washing techniques 383

26.6.4 Stone-wash
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26.6.4.1 A typical procedure for stone washing

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Garment washing techniques 385

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26.6.6 Stone-wash with chlorine

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26.6.7 Acid wash
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26.6.9 Ice wash

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26.6.10 Cellulase wash (Bio-stone-washing)

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26.6.11 Mineral wash

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Garment washing techniques 393

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26.6.13 Garment wash and overdye

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26.6.14 Whitening
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Problems in value addition processes

28.1 General
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28.2 Problems originating from the fibre and yarn

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28.3 Problems originating from fabric formation

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28.4 Problems due to water quality

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28.6 Problems in desizing

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28.10 Problems in dyeing

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28.10.2 Problems in dyeing with direct dyes

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28.10.3 Problems in sulphur dyeing

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28.10.4 Problems in dyeing with vat dyes

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