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* Please Remember *

Safety First! Everything you do that is related to your DIY project is at your own
risk. Please use safety precautions at all times. If you do not understand something or
do not feel comfortable doing something - consult a professional.

Thank you for trusting our product. Because you trust us, I’d like to return
the favor by presenting you a fresh new project. I hope this project will
mean a lot in terms of mobility, reliability and independence, regarding
your energy independence.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Chapter 1. Introduction …………………………………….……….….. page 4

a. Basic principal regarding solar energy …….………… page 4
b. General technical regards ……………………….………… page 10
Chapter 2. Tools and components ……………………….………… page 14
a. Tools ………………………………………………………….……… page 14
b. Components (electronic parts needed) ….…………. page 18
Chapter 3. Building Smart Solar Box ………………….…………… page 25
a. Assembling solar panels …………………….……………… page 25
b. Prepparing the BOX ………………………….………………. page 28
c. Wiring process ………………………………….………………. page 29
d. Recap – short review of the process …….…………… page 33
Chapter 4. Testing device ……………………………….……………… page 34
Chapter 5. List of places where you can by components .. page 37
Terms and legal disclaimer …………………………………………….. page40

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Chapter 1. Introduction
a. Basical principal regarding solar energy
There are three main types of solar electric systems: off‐grid, grid‐tied
or grid‐tied with battery back-up. Off grid systems typically use batteries
as their form of energy storage and have been around for many decades.
Grid‐tied systems have only gained popularity in recent years, as utility,
state and federal incentives have made the solar system much more cost
competitive with its dirty rivals: the fossil fuels.

These grid‐tied systems use the utility grid (the network of wires and
cables that span every city and town in the US) to store their energy,
sending excess energy into the grid during the day and pulling from it at
night.

Every solar system, no matter which type, will always start at the
solar panel. This is where the energy starts, and from there it must enter
some conductor to reach its destination. This conductor is typically an
insulated copper wire. The amount of energy and the distance of the wire
will determine what size wire to use. In an off‐grid application, the energy
from the sun typically flows through these components:

(general scheme)
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From the solar panel the current flows into a charge controller. This
unit is in essence a regulator of energy. It is a customizable unit that
regulates the flow of energy to the battery and determines how much
energy is being pulled from the batteries at nighttime or in cloudy
weather. Depending on the size of the solar array you may spend
anywhere from under $100 to a couple hundred dollars for your charge
controller(s).

Controllers are available in a variety of sizes and appearances.

The batteries are a crucial component of your off‐grid system. This is

what will be powering your appliances when the sun goes down or behind
clouds. Most batteries now are lead‐acid batteries, although as more
funding is being put into the R &D of batteries the chemistry is constantly
evolving and becoming more efficient.

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Batteries are also available in unsealed and sealed types. The

unsealed types are much more common due to their lower cost. However,
they do require weekly maintenance to keep their electrolyte levels above
the plates inside the battery. The sealed batteries come at a premium, but
do not require the maintenance, since the electrolyte is usually in a gel
substance.

For either battery you will want to keep them away from any
potential heat or fire sources. A shed or a well vented room in your home
will work best. Try to avoid temperature extremes for your battery bank,
as this will affect the performance negatively.

The charge controller can be programmed to stop flow from the

batteries when they reach a certain depth of discharge (DOD). The DOD is
typically no less than 50% of the battery’s capacity. The further you
discharge a battery on a regular basis the shorter the life span of a battery
will be. For solar applications you will want to use deep cycle batteries.
Wired together, they form a battery bank.

These may look very similar to car batteries but are only similar in
appearance and greatly differ in their requirements. Car batteries are
meant to be fully discharged and then rapidly recharged. Solar deep cycle
batteries are slowly charged throughout the day and then discharged
slowly at night. Their energy input will vary throughout the day and the
discharge will be sporadic at night, too.

A car battery used for a solar application would not be expected to

last even one year, while a well maintained deep‐cycle battery can be
expected to last 6 years or more, depending on the depth of discharge
level you have set and how often you keep the electrolyte levels
maintained.
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If you are using just direct current (DC) loads you will not need an
inverter and can just charge the loads from the battery, assuming the
voltages match up. However, the cost and availability of DC appliances
remains an impediment to the solely DC home.

Alternating current (AC) appliances dominate the home appliance

landscape and require an inverter to change the DC current from the solar
array to AC current for your refrigerator, TV, lights, etc. You should expect
to spend around $0.50/watt or more depending on the size of the inverter
needed.
Typically, all but the largest residential solar systems will work fine on one
inverter.

Inverters, like the charge controllers, will vary in shape and size
depending upon the inverter’s output rating and manufacturer.
You may be able to save some money on larger systems by purchasing an
inverter that has a charge controller inside its circuitry.

Check the spec sheets to determine this. Many of the larger

manufacturers of inverters have solar string sizing programs available for
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free on their website, so you may want to reference this to determine

what size inverter to use. The inverter’s input voltage window is the main
determination to determine how many panels you can wire together in a
series string, which is why they are often called string inverters.

You can get by with an inverter that is rated below the name plate
rating of the array. For example, a solar array with a name plate rating of
3,300 watts (3.3 kilowatts) will work just fine with a 3,000 Watt inverter,
since you will typically lose up to 20% of the output from the panels from
many factors. Among them, voltage losses in the wires, panel mismatch,
dirt or pollen on the panels and the DC to AC inversion.

Disconnect switches are often times built into the inverters, but
many municipalities require a separate disconnect switch for either the DC
side or the AC side, or both. If you are planning on getting your system
inspected by a licensed inspector or are going to connect your system to
the grid check with your local laws to determine which disconnects you
will need to install. The National Electrical Code (NEC) book, too, has set
laws on mounting the equipment, such as how high off the ground,
distance from batteries and other components, etc.

Disconnect switches, depending on how many strings of panels you

are creating may need to have an integrated fuse. These disconnects can
be purchased at a local electrical supply or hardware store.

If you are constructing a small array, you may get away with just one
battery, a small charge controller and a low wattage inverter, like the kind
you can plug into your car adaptor. You can plug many AC electronics or
even appliances directly into the inverter, so long as the inverter is rated
to handle the load requirements.

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For larger systems, you should opt to run the inverter AC wires
directly into your homes breaker panel with breaker slots allotted for the
inverter. A master electrician’s services should be sought for this step.

To make sure your breaker panel can handle the backfed current
take the busbar rating found on the inside cover, multiply it by 1.2 and
then subtract your main breaker size. The max continuous output current
of the inverter multiplied by 1.25 (depending on which NEC Code year you
reference) must be below this number.

For example, a 200 A breaker panel (standard in most new

construction) with a 200 A main breaker will allow for 40 A to be backfed
(200 x 1.2 – 200 = 40 A). You can typically fit up to about 7000 watts on a
200 A breaker panel since the max continuous output of a 7,000 Watt
inverter is usually close to 32 A. The max continuous output of the inverter
is found in the spec sheet or by contacting the manufacturer.

Grid‐tied systems substitute the utility grid for the batteries. Most
homes that are connected to the grid opt for this service. If going this
route, you will want your utility provider to install a net meter for you.
This meter records the flow of electricity in both directions, essentially
crediting your account for sending excess electricity into the grid.

When the sun is out and your panels are producing more electricity
than your home needs, your meter will spin backwards. When the sun
goes down and the lights come on you begin to pull electricity from the
grid and your meter spins forwards again. Most states have now adopted
net metering for renewable energy systems. If you don’t get a net meter
your old meter may actually charge you for energy consumed and energy
produced!

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It is important to note that when you lose power from the grid, you
won’t be able to use the power from your solar array. This is a safety
feature built into the inverters so that if you have a utility lineman working
on the power lines in your front yard they can be confident there is no
current in the lines. If your array were in the backyard feeding the grid and
he was working in the front he would run the chance of having a bad
electric shock.

A small percentage of homeowners opt for a grid‐tied solar system with

battery backup. This is more common in places with an unreliable utility
connection like very remote areas or places with inclimate weather. Aside
from the extra maintenance and introducing more toxic chemicals into
your home and the environment, you could pay up to 50% more on the
total cost of an installed system by adding battery backup. There are
inverters out there that have grid‐tied/battery backup capabilities, but you
may need two inverters for this option.

Having a crucial load subpanel is a good option for when the power
goes down and you are drawing from the batteries. This isolates some of
your electric loads on a separate breaker panel so that you won’t pull
down the battery’s storage too fast by running unnecessary loads.

b. General technical regards

The sun’s rays are comprised of many tiny photons of light. These
photons, while technically without matter, do possess energy. These little
balls of energy multiplied many times over strike the surface of the solar
panel and cause the necessary commotion to knock the electron free in
the solar cell.
Solar cells are typically made up of high grade silicon as the
semiconductor, but this alone is not sufficient to create an efficient
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enough solar cell. However, if a doping agent is introduced, commonly

boron and phosphorus, it causes an unbalanced chemical structure, with a
surplus of electrons in the silicon‐phosphorus layer on the front surface of
the cells.
This creates a negative charge and is referred to as the N‐layer.
Boron is often added to the back layer of the cells, creating a silicon‐boron
mixture that has a positive charge and can easily accept extra electrons,
often referred to as the P‐layer.
In between the two is a positive/negative junction, or P/N junction.
This middle junction between the other two layers has a neutral charge
and will only allow the flow of electrons in one direction; from the P‐layer
to the N‐layer.
Inherently, electrons like to move from negative to positive charges,
and the only pathway for the electrons to return to the P‐layer from the
N‐layer is through the conductor, which offers them very little resistance
and allows them to flow out of the surface of the solar cell.
It then returns to the solar cell through the completed circuit into
the Player.
By taking this flow of electrons, or electricity, and attaching a load to
its circuit you make the electrons do work and have usable, renewable
energy.
When each photon hits the cell it carries enough energy from the
sun with it to excite one electron in the cell into the movement that
creates the electricity. That is where the importance of the sun comes in.
Without an outside energy source, the circuit would not flow.

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However, when there is enough sunlight, the electrons from the P‐layer
leave their unbalanced atom and leave holes behind, which are easily
filled by new electrons returning from their work in the circuit. This
process happens until the sun sets for the day and they lay in wait for a
new day.
A blocking diode on the positive lead prevents any current from the
cells at night and draining the batteries. You can wire the solar cells
together to form a solar panel. When solar panels are wired together they
form a solar array.
Of the three, monocrystalline cells are the most efficient, while
polycrystalline cells are a close second.
Amorphous cells, while considerably less efficient tend to cost only a
fraction of what the crystalline cells do. The crystalline cells comprise the
panels that are typically used in residential installation. Because they are
so much more efficient that the amorphous cells you do not need as much
roof or ground space to provide enough energy to offset a typical home’s
usage.
However, due to amorphous panels’ low costs they tend to be
preferred for many commercial applications, since space is not an issue in
many cases.
When you know both the voltage and amperage of a solar cell you
can multiply them together to find its rating in watts. Completed solar
panels are rated in watts, so it’s important to understand this formula.
Knowing just two parts of the formula, you can also derive the third
component. For example, understanding the basic formula V (volts) x A
(amps) = W (watts) allows us to derive the amps from a 100 Watt 18 Volt
panel.
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V x A = W or W/V=A
100w / 18v = 5.55 amps that the panel will deliver

Once you know the voltage and amperage of your solar cells you can
begin to wire them together to form the solar panel.
The solar cells are wired together with conductors, commonly tab
ribbon. This allows us to take the single solar cell and pair it with similar
cells to create a solar panel with customizable power outputs.
So, let’s start to see how you can make this at home with a very
decent budget and effort. This device is a solar charger but it can be also a
small solar generator; in order to make it a power solar plant you can scale
it up to your requirements
First, let’s see what we need in order to complete this project.

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Chapter 2. Tools and components

a. Tools

Pliers

Cable Cutter (Pliers);

Flat and Cross Screwdriver;

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Cable Crimper Pliers;

Decorticator pliers;

Box Cutter Knife;

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Sliding Measuring Callipers;

Fixed Wrenches;

Plastic Cable Ties;

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Hand Drill

Drill Bits;

Multimeter (Amp\Voltage Measuring Device).

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b. Components (electronic parts needed)

Solar Panel Cable Coupling;

Power Inverter 12V – 110V (220V) at 800W;

Solar charger controler;

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Electrical cables for wiring (red and black) ᶲ1.5-2mm– 3.5 ft (10 m);

Metallic Coupling for Solar Panel Fixing – you can choose from a
large variety

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Screws, Washers and Nuts ᶲ6, 2.4 inches, 1.6 inches and 1 inch long;

Connectors;

On/Off Switch;

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or
Socket for 110V or 220V;

Car Lighter Socket 12V;

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USB Socket;

2 x Threaded Metal Rods;

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Tripod for Solar Panel Support;

2 x 40 / 50W Solar Panels;

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2 Smaller sized car batteries or a Big One;

1 Toolbox inside which we'll assemble the Power Bank for better
maneuverability and ergonomics;
For testing the Device we'll use: 2 Halogen x 10W bulbs, 2 x 10W
bulbs, 8 x 100W bulbs connected in parallel. Also, we'll use a cell phone
and other household devices.
Next you'll see the step-by-step assembly process, and we'll do a
final recap at the end of the video.
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Chapter 3. Building Smart Solar Box

a. Assembling solar panels
We'll use a normal but robust tripod (normally used for spotlights
and other devices). According to the desired size of the device, you can
choose bigger and more durable tripods in order to sustain the solar
panels for the exposure period.
You'll need a permanent marker and a measuring tape with which
we'll find and note the middle of the aluminum frame that holds the 2
solar panels. Please pay attention when drilling the hole in the middle of
the frame, so the threaded rod won't touch the surface of the solar panel.
The drilling must be done carefully to avoid damaging the solar panel; in
the video we used an aluminum frame which is easy to drill into, but be
careful not to puncture the solar panel. After drilling you can smooth out
the edges of the hole to remove all the debris.
We'll repeat the procedure for the second solar panel, making sure
we follow the same drilling pattern (the cables must be on the same side).
We'll mount a washer and a nut at one end of the threaded rod, and
then we'll tight it in place with another nut, so the other end of the rod
will sustain the solar panel. We'll add on the middle of the pipe another
nut that will stiffen the tripod connection of the metallic frame you can
see in the video. Depending on the size, you can center or skew to one
side the metallic coupling, so at the end the tripod will be balanced, and
the solar panels firmly in place. Make sure you don't over-tense the solar
panel frame and avoid any contact between metal objects and the solar
panel. If contact is made, the solar panel might crack.
At the end of this step the panel should look like this:

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Repeat the procedure for the second solar panel.

All the settings, tuning and coupling will be performed after placing
the panels on the tripod, for better balancing. Also, make sure the
connections on the solar panels are not obstructed, tangled or
deteriorated in any way during the assembling procedure.
The excess tops of the threaded rods can be cut off for better
ergonomics.
The tripod we're using is normally used for spot lights. We'll attach
some metallic connectors / couplers using which we'll attach the solar
panels in the final stage. The mobility options it’s yours... and any coupling
device of the two panels is ok, as long as it can hold the weight during
charge times.

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We'll use an 1 inch screw for fixing just like you see in the video. A helping
hand when doing this is always welcome. It will be easier when setting up
the solar panel on the final position. We'll tighten the screws, making sure
we don't touch the solar panel.
At the end, the two solar panels will look just like you see in the
video, with the cables left hanging for the following connection.
Next, you'll see how to connect the 2 solar panels and how to use
the couplings mentioned in the first chapter.
The solar panels we used (for which you have the technical specs)
are already semi-wired; if you buy them without connectors, the
manufacturer's diy kit should include all the wires and connectors needed.
As you can see, the red wire is on positive and the black one is on
negative. I recommend using red-black color coded wires, at a length
suitable for your needs.
Very Important! Wiring connection on the solar panel will be done in
parallel! Even if you have more than 2 panels, the principle is the same.
Note that the connections are simple (mom-dad), avoiding undesired
errors. For the positive line (connector + / red wire), we'll use at one end a
mom connector in which we'll connect the red cable on the interior pin.
Decorticate the end of the wire and then tighten it to ensure the correct
connection to the metallic pin. Insert the tightening sleeve and then the
coupling and tighten the lot. You'll see that it is light weight and strong.
Repeat the same procedure for the negative side of the circuit
(connector - / black wire).

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The coupling connection it's done as you see it in the picture above:
the positive terminals in the positive coupling, and the negative in the
negative coupling. In case you opt for a 4 panel system (or more), you'll
have a splitter with 4 red wire entries on a positive connector and 4 black
wire entries on a negative connector. The working principle is that you'll
have X positive entries connected to a single positive base, and X negative
entries, connected to a single negative base.
The other ends of the wires will be connected to a solar charge
controller as you'll later see in the video.

b. Preparing the BOX

We'll use a plastic tough toolbox, on which we'll mount a normal
socket (110V), a car lighter socket (12V), an on/off switch and an USB
socket. Inside the box we'll have the charge controller, the power inverter,
the battery and the excess cable.
So let's get to preparing the box for all the sockets, and afterwards
we'll connect all the components for the final demonstration.

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We'll first mount the socket for the 110V devices. I'll mention here,
that the combined power consumption of the devices you plan on using
cannot exceed the nominal output power of the inverter.
We'll use a drill or a box cutter knife to make a hole in the lid of the
box. After drilling, clean the edges of the hole for debris, and position the
socket. We'll hold it in place using two small screws, but only after
connecting the wiring.
We'll repeat the procedure for all the other elements we'll place on
the lid: On/Off switch, 12V car lighter socket, USB socket. That will be
done after drilling each hole using the plastic/metallic O-rings.
Once the box is ready, we'll go on to the next step, in which you'll
see how to make all the connections inside the box (it should look like
this):

c. Wiring process
First thing … we put the battery in the box, setting it on the final
position. After that we'll put the Power Inverter inside, and finally the
charge controller.
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The first step is connecting the battery. Use the connectors for the
bases just like you see in the video. The red Connectors will go on the
positive (+) base, and the blue connectors (in our case) will go on the
negative (-) base and to the black connectors on the solar panels.
To determine the necessary length of the cables for connecting each
socket, measure enough so you won't have a tensed wire circuit if the lid
is open. Measure the distances for all the connections on the lid. Cut at
the desired length 4 (in our case) pairs of wires. One for each connection...
coupled with the same type of connector (red for the positive base and
blue for the negative wires). The coupling is done by tightening the
connectors on the cables.

After finishing the necessary wiring for the sockets, we'll measure
the cable we need for the connection between the battery and the
inverter and between the charge controller and the battery, following the
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same working principle: the cables must not be tensed so none of the
connections will break.
For a better stiffening of the inverter we'll use a piece of Styrofoam,
to make sure that it will stand still in the box without any space to move
around. We'll also choose the final position of the charge controller,
making sure that the connection side is up for easy access.
Now we'll connect the inverter (red to red and black to black) to the
battery. Do the direct connection just like you see in the video. Next we'll
connect the inverter to the socket. For that we'll take a cable from a plug.
One end will be for the socket bases. We'll also need the on/off switch for
controlling the socket power on the socket. The other 12V sockets will be
permanently powered. If needed, you can mount another switch for those
too. But because of the low voltage, we don't think that's necessary.
In the video you'll see that there are three wires coming out the
plug: yellow (grounding), brown (faze), blue (null). In our case we'll cancel
the grounding part.
Next in line is the on/off switch. This will close/open the inverter,
powering up the socket. So, the positive base of the inverter will go on the
positive base of the switch, and the other base of the switch will go to the
battery. As you can see, we're using both cable of the same color (red).
Next is the charge controller and its connection (at one end to the
solar panels, and at the other end to the battery).
THE IMPORTANT RULE HERE IS TO CONNECT THE CONTROLLER TO THE
BATTERY FIRST AND THEN THE PANELS TO THE CONTROLLER. In our case
we have icons on the controller that help in the process in an intuitive
way: near the panel icon we have the positive and the negative coupling in
which we'll connect the solar panels (red wire to positive + and black wire
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to negative -); the next two couplings are for the battery connection. For
that we'll measure 2 wires (one red and one black). After inserting the
decorticated ends in the controller, tighten the screws making sure it's a
strong connection.
We'll connect on each battery base the cables with the specified
colors. On the positive base we'll connect all the cables (from the
controller, switch - inverter and 12V sockets). In the same way we'll
connect the negative bases and cables (controller, inverter and the two
12V sockets). You probably noticed that the battery charge is already
crating sparks. Make sure all the socket bases are connected before you
connect them to the battery base. And as you can see, the controller is
already powering up.

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d. Recap – short review of the process

Let's recap. From the solar panels we have to outputs (negative to
negative and positive to positive). These will connect to the controller,
which will be connected to the battery bases. The green LEDs show that
the panels are already charging. The inverter is also connected to the
battery through an on/off switch on the positive side, and the negative
coupling is connected directly to the battery. The 110V (220V) socket is
connected through a plug to the inverter, and the 12V sockets go directly
to the battery, following the polarities (red to red and black to black).
Next step is beautifying the system (tracing and setting in place the wiring
and the components so it will prevent damaging the connections). We'll
use plastic cable ties, Styrofoam as a space filler and we'll make sure that
everything is firmly set in place before testing the device.
WARNING! This is a powered up device. To avoid electrocution close the
circuit from the switch or do this operation before connecting the battery
bases!
This is how the device looks in the final stage after all the cables and
components have been set in place:

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Chapter 4. Testing the device

This is how the system looks: box, panels, tripod and wiring.

Inside the box we have:

- A battery for storing energy from the solar panels
- An inverter for transforming 12V into 110V (220V)
- A charge controller which controls the flow of electricity from the
solar panels to the battery.
The working principle is the following (see page 4 – general scheme):
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From the solar panels, the electricity is transferred through the

charge controller to the battery. From there it leaves to the consumer
interface (in our case towards the inverter which lifts from 12V to 110V
or 220V socket, and to the 12V sockets - car lighter and USB).
We chose to use a toolbox for the power bank for mobility. You can
roll the cable from the panels, disconnect the panels, fold the tripod
and you're ready to go. Any isolated destination is now connected to
your own personal power grid.
We chose to hook our panels to the tripod at this angle, so it will
allow maximum solar energy absorption.
For testing we used a phone for the USB charge, a light bulb array
connected in parallel, 100W each for the 110/220V socket and two
halogen 10W light bulbs for the car lighter socket.
We'll connect first the box to the panels, and then plug in the
different consumers.
The first ones are the 110V light bulbs. We'll add the 10W halogen
light bulbs and finally the phone for the USB test.
Because the battery is already almost fully charged, you can see we
already have autonomy for all the tested devices
Depending on the type of solar panel and battery you choose to go
with, charge time is between 4-6 hours, and it lasts depending on what
you choose to plug in... How many and how much power they need to
function in parameters? For the 100W light bulbs you can exceed 12
hours using 4 simultaneously.
You can plug in more powerful appliances (in our case no more
powerful than 800W).
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Here is how the system looks at the end of our step-by-step vide guide:

All the modules have been disconnected from one another and can
easily fit any trunk. And you only need a couple of minutes to put them
back together.
We hope you'll enjoy this device for a long time, and you're welcome
to take part in our next project as well.

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 37

Chapter 5. List of places where you can by components

Here is the list where you can find the most important components for
this project:
For Solar Panel Battery Charging Controller Regulator
a. Ebay.com >> Click Here << (identical with the one used in our videos)
b. Ani.SolarShop >> Click Here <<
c. Mlsolar.com >> Click Here <<
d. Ebay.com >> Click Here << (if you want to upgrade your system)
For Battery (AGM 80A – the one we used). Here are similar items with
similar characteristics:
a. Solarpanelstore.com >>Click Here <<
b. Wholesalesolar.com >> Click Here <<
c. Amazon.com >> Click Here <<
d. Acosolar.com >> Click Here <<
For Solar Panels:
a. Mlsolar.com >> Click Here <<
b. Ebay.com >> Click Here << (a good option wich doesn’t require any
tripod or sustaining system)
c. Solarpanelstore.com >> Click Here <<
d. Solarxxl.com >> Click Here << (for Europe clients) or >This Version <
e. Enjoy-solar.de >> Click Here << (a good kit)
f. Acosolar.com >> Click Here <<
For Invertor 110/220-12v:
a. Amazon.com >> Click Here << (a double sized version from one used
in the videos).
b. Eco-worthy.com >> Click Here <<
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c. Ebay.com >> Click Here << (for upgrades)

d. Solarxxl.com >> Click Here << (identical with the one we used)
For 110/220v Panel Mounting Socket:
a. Alliedelec.com >> Click Here <<
b. Aliexpress.com >> Click Here <<
For 12V Auto Socket
a. Amazon.com >> Click Here << or >> This Version <<
For USB Socket:
a. Amazon.com >> Click Here <<
For ON/OFF switch:
a. Amazon.com >>Click Here <<
For Terminal Connectors (on the cables):
a. Eco-worthy.com >> Click Here <<
For Panel connectivity:
a. Solarpanelstore.com >> Click Here << (female) or >> Click Here <<
(male)
b. Ani.solar Shop >> Click Here <<
For tripod sustaining panels:
a. Dynamitetoolco.com >>Click Here <<
b. 12voltsplus.com >> Click Here << (identical with the one in the
videos)
For our Australian custormes we can recomand you this site:
https://www.solaronline.com.au/
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For all the other components, we recomand you General / Local Shops.
In order to cut your acquisition bill we recomand you to follow this
steps:
- Decide the scale of your system according to your needs;
- See if you can find items like batteries, invertors cables on General
Shops or even second hand shops. If you buy anything from a second
hand shop, make sure that you receive what you asked for and also a
test for the device would spare you for further problems.
- Follow our video guides as much as you need in order to complete
your device.

Thank you for your time and trust. If you have questions, we'll be more
than happy to answer them on the support address, and will reply as
fast as possible.

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 40

TERMS & LEGAL DISCLAIMER

The authors and publishers both disclaim liability regarding any loss or risk
incurred as a direct, or indirect, consequence of the application and usage of any
of the contents within the Smart Solar Box Program (smartpower4all.com).
By using, viewing, and/or interacting with the Smart Solar Box guide, program,
videos, and/or the smartpower4all.com website, you agree to all terms of
engagement, thus assuming complete responsibility for your own actions. The
authors and publishers will not be held liable or claim accountability for any loss
or injuries. Use, view, and interact with these resources at your own risk.
All products from smartpower4all.com and its related companies are strictly
for information and entertainment purposes only. While all attempts have been
made to verify the accuracy of information provided on our website and within
our publications, neither the authors nor the publishers are responsible for
assuming liability for possible inaccuracies.
The authors and publishers disclaim any responsibility for the inaccuracy of the
content, including but not limited to errors or omissions. Loss or damage of
property, injury to self or others, and even death can occur as a direct or indirect
consequence of the use and application of any content found herein.
Using and working with solar panels, alternative energy & related
equipment/sources, and electricity are dangerous. You are working with many
dangerous factors (including but not limited to electricity, hot soldering
equipment, power tools, the roof of your house if you decide to mount your solar
panel, and many other unknown conditions that will arise during your project) so
seek expert opinions and help when necessary.
The authors and publishers assume that you are aware of all the risks and
possible damage associated with a DIY project and while using electricity and
renewable energy resources.

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 41

Check with your local officials, state, county, and country for applicable laws
about home improvements, alterations, and using alternative energy (especially if
connecting to the grid). It is often necessary to obtain local government permits
and licenses to prevent legal implications.
We also highly recommend you consult with your local electrician, and other
applicable home improvement professionals, to assist in your alternative energy
project. Failure to do so could result in injury, loss/damage of property, or death -
you are acting at your own risk.
By choosing to use the information made available on smartpower4all.com or
within any of our publications, videos, or related works, you agree to indemnify,
defend, and hold harmless the authors, publishers, and any other related
company from all claims (whether valid or invalid), judgments, suits, proceedings,
losses, damages, and costs or expenses of any nature that result from the use or
misuse of any information in our Smart Solar Box Program.
The information provided in our DIY program may need to be downloaded
using third party software, such as Acrobat or Flash Player. Moreover, any
downloads, whether purchased or given for free from our website, any
related/affiliated websites, or our web hosting, are done at your own risk. We
give no warranty that these websites are free of corrupting computer codes,
viruses, or worms.
If you are a minor, you can only use the Smart Solar Box Program and related
contents with permission and guidance from your parents or guardians. Children
are not eligible to use our services unsupervised. Further, smartpower4all.com
specifically denies access to any individual covered by the Child Online Privacy Act
(COPA) of 1998.

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