Mattone Barile Grande - Oven - BrickWood Ovens

Installation Instructions &
Materials List for the –

Mattone Barile Grande with
Ceramic Fiber Blanket Insulation
When you combine a 4000 year-old design
with today’s ceramic fiber blanket technology,
you get an extremely efficient wood-fired
oven with classic old world charm.
These step-by-step instructions show you
how to build a low-cost, easy to assemble
wood-fired oven with countless finish options!
(1050SqIn Cooking Surface) Shown with ½” thick red Thin Brick Veneer finish
Materials Shopping List Tools Needed

(Quantities are pre-adjusted for 8% overage recommendations)
1 Mattone Barile Grande Foam Form Miter Saw Masonry Blade

75 Standard Size Brick (Frame) 8 x 21/4 x 35/8 Wheelbarrow Masonry Trowel
140 Tan Firebrick (Oven) Caulking Gun Construction Sponge
50 Tan Firebrick (Cooking Surface) 4’ Level Tape Measure
3 80lb Bag of Stucco or Mortar Mix Rubber Mallet Rubber Gloves
2 100lb Bag Silica Sand 5 Gallon Bucket(s) Glasses & Respirator
2 50lb Bag Portland Cement Wire Cutter Utility Blade
2 50lb Bag Fire Clay
2 50lb Bag Hydrated Lime (Powder)
2 60lb Bag All Purpose Sand
1 50sf Box of Ceramic Fiber Blanket
1 Roll of 2’ x 25’ Chicken Wire
1 Roll of Rebar Wire
1 5lb Bag All Purpose Flour
1 (OPTIONAL) DuraTech 6” Exhaust Kit
1 (OPTIONAL) Barile Series Oven Door
High-Temperature Mortar Mix

When building the oven, you MUST use a High-Temperature
mortar mix. This mix is fabricated to withstand the extreme
temperatures the oven will reach. Mix all 4 ingredients with water
in a wheelbarrow until it reaches the consistency of oatmeal.
3 Parts - Silica Sand
1 Part - Fireclay Please remember to BUY AMERICAN and
1 Part - Lime purchase your materials from locally owned
1 Part - Portland Cement Landscape and/or Masonry Supplies.
© 2013 BrickWood Ovens / US & International Patents Pending Mattone Barile Grande (Insulated) | 1
What you need to know BEFORE you build your Mattone Barile Series Oven
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE YOU BUILD – We worked very hard to bring you the most through, yet simplistic set of
DIY wood-fired oven and base instructions on Planet Earth! We HIGHLY encourage you to read both sets of directions before
you tear open your first bag of cement.. or at least look at the pictures (guys)..
PLACEMENT OF OVEN – First and foremost, ALL BrickWood Ovens are for OUTDOOR & NON-COMMERCIAL USE ONLY!
Secondly, the placement of your oven really depends on your local building codes. Many codes & HOA’s state that all
“solid-fuel burning devices” be placed within “X” number of feet from any structure. Before you build your oven, check
with your local municipalities and/or HOA’s to verify you build to the standards of your code.
In addition, you must remember that no wood burning oven manufacturer can guarantee 100% smoke capture. For this
reason, we do not recommend placing your BrickWood Oven within 5 feet of any ceiling or covered structure. We also
recommend leaving a distance of 3 feet between the oven and any structure like walls, fences, trees, etc..
Also, make sure that the front / opening of your oven faces the direction of the oncoming wind. If the wind hits the rear of
the oven, it can create a small vacuum which will pull the smoke out the front of the oven.
TYPES OF FIREBRICK - There are several types of firebrick on the market (Low duty, Medium Duty, High Duty, Red Clay
Brick, & Insulating Firebrick). It is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED to use a Low or Medium duty firebrick which is comprised of
35% - 40% Alumina with 45% - 55% Silica and typically weigh 7lb – 8lb each. Low and Medium duty firebrick are the best
type of firebrick to use on any brick oven.
FIREBRICK COLORS – Red or Tan.. That is the question! Most firebrick dealers stock one color of firebrick and it is usually
tan. Sometimes a dealer will stock both red and tan which look great together! The color of the firebrick has absolutely zero
effect on the performance of the oven.
FIREBRICK SIZES – The Mattone Barile series ovens were designed to accommodate the two most common sizes of firebrick
on the market – 9” x 4.5” x 2.5” and 9” x 4.5” x 2.25”. While it is preferred that you use the firebrick that is 2.5” thick, you can
use the 2.25” thick brick – your mortar joints will be a little bit wider.
In addition to those two common sizes, you can also use the following firebrick sizes –
8.5” x 4.5” x 2.5” 9” x 4” x 2.5” 9” x 3.5” x 2.5” 9” x 3” x 2.5” 12” x 4.5” x 3” 13.5” x 4.5” x 3”
8.5” x 4.5” x 2.25” 8.75” x 4.5” x 2.25” 9” x 3.5” x 2.25” 9” x 3” x 2.25” 12” x 4.5” x 2.5” 13.5” x 4.5” x 2.5”
If your firebrick is shorter than 9” you will need to mark the foam form to indicate where the “new” edge of the oven will be. For
example, if your firebrick is 8.75” in length (as shown below), you will need to lineup the firebrick along the top row and make a
line to indicate where the new edge of the foam form will be located. Be sure to leave 1/16” to 1/8” gap between each brick for
your mortar. Measure the front-to-back distance and mark that distance on all rows with a marker.
If you want to use a firebrick that isn’t shown on the above chart, you can probably still use it. Just make sure that the width of
the brick is between 2.25” and 2.75”. If your brick is wider than 2.5”, you may need to trim the brick guides (the ridges on the
foam form) with a razor, or simply press the foam ridges down so they are flush with the main foam body.
SAFTEY FIRST!! WEAR GLASSES, RESPIRATOR & GLOVES AT ALL TIMES!! Sunscreen is optional..
HIGH-TEMP MORTAR – We provide you with a simple, inexpensive, yet highly functional heat tolerant mortar mix recipe.
Most of the materials are readily available in your local Masonry Supply or Landscape Supply. While there are several great
brands of pre-mix high-temp mortars on the market, they can add several dollars to the cost of your brick oven. If your budget
allows, you can substitute our recommended high-temp mortar blend for pre-mix high-temp mortar, just verify it is weather
resistant (rain, snow, etc.). You will need about 400lbs of High-Temp Pre-Mix (DRY) or 550lbs High-Temp Pre-Mix (Wet).
RETAINING HEAT – There are three simple ways to retain more heat in your oven and they are fairly inexpensive.
1. Wrap the oven with 2 or 3 inches of Ceramic Fiber Blanket prior to applying the exterior finish. We HIGHLY
recommend building your oven with Ceramic Fiber Blanket for improved oven performance. Visit us at
BrickWoodOvens.com for step-by-step instructions & information on building this type of oven (and yes, we also
sell top quality Ceramic Fiber Blanket in our online store).
2. Close off 40% of the front of the oven with firebrick or clay brick (do not exceed 40%).
3. Close off your oven with one of our doors which are available at BrickWoodOvens.com
STUCCO / MORTAR SHELL – The biggest misconception with the insulated oven occurs with the versatile stucco or mortar
shell. This “shell” performs MANY duties and is required when insulating your oven with Ceramic Fiber Blanket.
1. The shell is 2 rock-hard ½” thick layers of STUCCO or MORTAR MIX. While stucco is preferred, it can be regional
and hard to find in some areas. If a dry stucco mix is not available, standard Mortar Mix can be used.
2. Stucco is different from mortar mix as it contains synthetic fibers that increase its strength and durability.
3. The stucco is used in conjunction with the metal lathe (chicken wire) to create a reinforced shell around the oven
(think of the metal lathe in stucco like rebar in cement). This shell keeps the ceramic fiber blanket locked in place
around the oven and also allows the end user to mortar ANY TYPE of veneer to the oven.
4. The stucco or mortar shell can be painted, but it is preferred that you mortar a finish veneer to the shell.
5. Once you paint the stucco, you cannot apply a veneer using mortar (unless you strip the paint).
6. Only use dry stucco mix. Pre-mixed stucco is cost-prohibitive (you will need about 280lbs of wet / mixed stucco).
HAIRLINE CRACKING – When your oven is heating up, the heat causes the oven to expand or “stretch”. This expansion
stresses the weakest point of the oven which is usually where the mortar and firebrick meet. Please remember, HAIRLINE
CRACKING IS NORMAL and will happen. To keep the hairline cracking to a minimum:
1. Heat your oven SLOWLY! The slower you heat your oven, the less chance of hairline cracking.
2. Make sure your firebricks are thoroughly saturated with water before applying mortar. Dry firebrick will
absorb the moisture from the mortar and prevent a tight bond between the firebrick and mortar.
HERRINGBONE PATTERN COOKING SURFACE – Aside from looking pretty cool, the Herringbone pattern actually serves a
purpose. If you lay your cooking surface firebrick in a horizontal / vertical layout and just one firebrick rises 1/16 of an inch, it
could stop your pizza peel instantly (and send a nice shock down your arm). By angling the brick at a 45˚ degree angle, your
peel will simply glide over the elevated brick.
RIDGES ON THE INSIDE OF THE OVEN – Once the foam form is removed, you will notice very small ridges on the inside of
the oven. This is due to the ridges on the foam form (used as a firebrick guide). DO NOT FILL THESE RIDGES WITH HIGH-
TEMP MORTAR! Since the High-Temp mortar has already hardened, new mortar will not adhere and will eventually fall out.
Usually on the slice of pizza your Mother-In-Law is eating. CRUNCH! Also, your new oven will be black on the inside in about
1 week so you will never see the ridges.
LOCATING CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS – Depending on where you live, some materials might be difficult to locate. While
firebrick, lime and Portland cement are readily available, SILICA SAND, FIRECLAY and VERMICULITE / PERLITE can be
elusive. If your local building materials supply store does not carry the materials you need, try these alternatives..
SILICA SAND – Pool Supply stores carry silica sand for pool filters – make sure the bag says “Silica”.
FIRECLAY – Pottery / Ceramic supply stores carry fireclay for making firing kilns.
VERMICULITE / PERLITE – Plant Nurseries carry Vermiculite & Perlite for potting soil additives.
CONSTRUCTION OVER MULTIPLE DAYS – If your project extends beyond 24 hours, you will need to remoisten the oven,
firebrick, slab, etc.. Dry concrete and firebrick will suck moisture out of new / moist mortar and firebrick (like a sponge). This
will leave your new mortar dried out and flaky (i.e. mortar failure). When in doubt, spray it down with water to be on the safe
side!
SOOT ON OVEN – Sometimes a bit of soot will land on the front of your oven, but don’t fret! Simply get a little dab of dish
washing detergent, a small brush and a bucket of water – follow that up with a little elbow grease and that soot comes right off!
Good as new with a fresh, clean, lemony scent!
METRIC VS. STANDARD – The measurements in our directions are shown using the Standard measurement system. If you
are outside of the US, you will need to convert the measurements to Metric. This can easily be done by visiting our conversion
page at: www.BrickWoodOvens.com/Conversion
CURING THE OVEN AND FIRING THE OVEN - It is VERY important that you cure your oven correctly. It is equally important
that you fire up the oven correctly to get the most out of your oven. PLEASE BE SURE TO READ AND FOLLOW BOTH SETS
OF DIRECTIONS THAT ARE ON THE LAST 2 PAGES OF THESE INSTRUCTIONS:
HOW TO CURE YOUR OVEN & HOW TO FIRE YOUR OVEN FOR DAILY USE
PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT PIZZA – We know how excited you are to put your first pizza in your oven! We’ve been there!
And we also burned the tar out of our first pizza (that took 30 minutes to build from scratch)! We HIGHLY recommend that you
purchase 6 or 7 frozen pizzas from your grocers’ freezer (Red Baron / Tombstone) and let them thaw out to room temperature.
Practice cooking in your oven with these disposable pizzas and once you have become an Oven Master, go for the good stuff!
STRANGERS IN YOUR BACKYARD – Wood-fired ovens tend to attract lots of people. Some you may know and some you
may not. These strangers mean no harm! They were just guided to your oven by the wonderful smell of burning wood and the
aroma of fresh baked bread in the air. They usually appear during holidays, birthdays, graduations and most Sundays
(especially during football season). Usually, you can give them a couple of slices of freshly baked pizza and they will scamper
away, but remember, once you feed them food from a wood-fired oven, they come back over and over searching for more!
You’ve been warned!
HAVE FUN! THAT’S AN ORDER! Anyone can buy a pre-built oven.. and anyone can BUILD an oven! We have taken all of
the guess-work out of building your wood-fired oven and base. All you have to do is follow our step-by-step instructions and
you will be hosting your first pizza party in no time! Don’t worry about mistakes – masonry is very forgiving. If you do make a
mistake, simply wipe off any wet mortar and try again. If it takes 3 times to get it right, it takes 3 times.. no worries!! You just
learned how to do it right for the next time!
One last note before you get started.. If you have kids, be sure to let them help in the construction of the oven. Your new oven
will last for many, many years and as the time passes quickly (as we all know it does), you and your kids will always remember
the fun you had building the oven together as a family. There are no mistakes when building your oven and if an “uh-oh” does
occur, just remember that it can easily be fixed with mortar!
- OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES –
(available online at www.BrickWoodOvens.com)
Barile Series Door DuraTech 6” American Metalcraft

w/ Red Oak Handles Exhaust Kit & Brush Head / Handle,
(27.5”W x 19.25”H) High-Temp Adhesive Alum Peel & Peel Rack
- INSULATED OVEN MEASUREMENTS –
- 47” x 60” INSULATED HEARTH SLAB & BASE MEASUREMENTS -
- Finishing the Barile Series Oven –
Once you have fully assembled your Cortile Barile oven, you MUST apply some sort of finish to protect the
firebrick & unfinished stucco / mortar from the elements. The finish can be as simple as a couple of layers
of paint on the stucco / mortar shell or an elaborate housing that would make any true Italian proud!
Before you even begin your project, visit your local Masonry and/or Building Supply and look through their
various types of masonry veneers. Keep in mind, this oven will last for generations – Make It Awesome!
Painted Stucco Shell Thin Brick Veneer on Stucco Shell
Thin Brick Veneer Finish w/ Closed Front Complete Brick Oven Housing
- Basic Types of Masonry Finishes & Veneers –
STUCCO BRICK VENEER STONE VENEER NATURAL STONE

Make 2 piles of Standard Brick and spray with
water until they are saturated. HINT: Place the
better looking bricks in one pile and the not-so-hot
bricks in the 2nd pile. Mortar the better looking
STEP 1
brick on the front half of your base..

Haga 2 pilas de ladrillos estándar y spray con
agua hasta que se saturan. SUGERENCIA:
Coloque los mejores ladrillos que buscan en
una pila y los ladrillos no tan caliente en la
segunda pila. Mortero del ladrillo mejor aspecto
en la mitad delantera de su base ..
Steps 2 - 29 require a 3:1:1:1 mortar mixture.

HIGH-TEMP MORTAR MIX
3 Gallons - Silica Sand

1 Gallon - Portland Cement
1 Gallon - Fireclay
1 Gallon - Lime
Dry mix the High-Temperature mortar blend in
a wheelbarrow, then add enough water to mix
the mortar to the consistency of thick oatmeal.
Los pasos 2 - 29 requiere una mezcla de
mortero 3:1:1:1.
3 Galones - Arena Silica
1 Galón - Cemento Portland
1 Galón - Chamota
1 Galón - Lime
Seque mezclar la mezcla de mortero de alta
temperatura en una carretilla, a continuación,
agregue suficiente agua para mezclar el mortero
hasta obtener la consistencia de avena.
STARTING ON THE BACK OF THE SLAB –

Mark the location of the CENTER of the slab and
work from the inside to the outside. Mortar the
longest side and bottom of the longest side of
each brick with HIGH-TEMP MORTAR and place
each brick 3/8” apart (3/8” JOINTS). MORTAR
STEP 2
ALL BRICKS VERTICALLY ON THEIR SIDES!!
ARRANQUE EN LA PARTE POSTERIOR DE LA

LOSA - Marque la ubicación del centro de la losa
y trabajar desde el interior hacia el exterior.
Mortero el lado más largo y la parte inferior del
lado más largo de cada ladrillo con mortero de
alta temperatura y colocar cada ladrillo de 3/8" de
separación (3/8" JUNTAS). MORTERO TODOS
LOS LADRILLOS EN VERTICAL EN SU LADO!
Mark the CENTER of the FRONT SLAB and
mortar the bricks from the inside to the outside
using the high-temp mortar. KEEP LEVEL.
Remember to keep 3/8” joints between each brick
(about the width of a pencil).
STEP 3
Marque el centro de la losa FRONT y mortero

de los ladrillos desde el interior hacia el exterior
con el mortero de alta temperatura. MANTENGA
NIVEL. Recuerde que debe mantener de 3/8
"juntas entre cada ladrillo (aproximadamente el
ancho de un lápiz).
Mortar the bricks on the hearth slab from

the OUTSIDE to the INSIDE. After completing
this step, let the bricks dry for 24 hours.
STEP 4
Mortero de los ladrillos en la losa de

solera del exterior hacia el interior. Una
vez completado este paso, dejar que los
ladrillos seca durante 24 horas.
Cover the Insulated hearth slab with about

1” – 2” of ALL PURPOSE SAND. This sand is
used to level the cooking surface firebrick with the
firebrick frame. DO NOT USE SILICA SAND!!
STEP 5
Cubrir la base con capa de aislamiento de 1” - 2”

de toda la ARENA PROPÓSITO. Esta arena
se utiliza para nivelar la superficie de cocción
de ladrillo refractario con el marco de ladrillo
refractario. NO USE ARENA SILICA!
- CRUCIAL MEASUREMENT -
ATTENTION!!
In the next two steps, make sure that the cooking
surface firebrick (tan shown) is PERFECTLY
LEVEL with the hearth frame brick (red shown).
- MUCHO CRUCIAL –
En los dos pasos siguientes, asegúrese de que
la superficie de cocción de ladrillo refractario
(tan ilustrado) está perfectamente nivelada con
el marco de ladrillo refractario (rojo muestra).
Place the FIREBRICK in a HERRINGBONE

PATTERN*. Each firebrick should be level with
the frame brick in height. Add or subtract sand
if needed. DO NOT MORTAR FIREBRICK!!
*Herringbone pattern is REQUIRED for surface! Pizza peels will
STEP 6
slide smoothly across uneven firebrick when laid at this angle.
Coloque el ladrillo refractario en un archive

diseño en espiga*. Cada ladrillo refractario
debe estar a nivel con el ladrillo marco de altura.
Sumar o restar arena si es necesario.
NO MORTERO LADRILLO REFRACTARIO!
*Patrón en espiga es OBLIGATORIO para la superficie!
Fill in the remaining voids with firebrick.

Cut to size with the miter saw or angle grinder
using masonry blades. DO NOT FILL THE
LOOSE JOINTS BETWEEN THE FIREBRICKS!
You will do this on Step 48.
STEP 7
Rellene los huecos restantes con ladrillo

refractario. Corte a la medida con la sierra
ingletadora o amoladora angular con palas de
albañilería. NO LLENE LAS JUNTAS SUELTOS
ENTRE LOS LADRILLOS REFRACTARIOS!
Lo hará en el paso 48.
Remove the Mattone Barile Grande form from the
box and place it on top of the firebrick cooktop.
STEP 8
Remover el Mattone Barile Grande form de su

caja y ponerla encima de la base de ladrillo.
Carefully slide the legs out of the form body and

insert them into the bottom of the form. Center
the form LEFT to RIGHT on the cooking surface.
STEP 9
Deslice con cuidado las piernas fuera del cuerpo

forma espuma y los inserta en la parte inferior del
formulario. Centre el horno de izquierda a derecha
en la superficie de cocción.
Position the BACK of the oven 10.5”

STEP 10
from the edge of the rear firebrick.
Acomodar la parte DE ATRAS del horno

10.5” de la orilla del ladrillo de atras.
IMPORTANT
IMPORTANT
YOU MUST SOAK ALL FIREBRICK FOR

20 – 30 MINUTES BEFORE CUTTING
AND/OR MORTARING INTO PLACE! KEEP
FIREBRICK WET / MOIST AT ALL TIMES!!
IMPORTANTE
USTED DEBE DEJAR EN REMOJO PARA TODOS
LADRILLO REFRACTARIO 20 – 30 MINUTOS
ANTES DE CORTAR Y / O MORTEROS EN SU
LUGAR! MANTENGA LADRILLO REFRACTARIO
WET / HUMEDO EN TODO MOMENTO!
Once the brick has soaked for 20 – 30 minutes,
you can place them under the cooking slab to
shield the bricks from the sun. Occasionally
spray the bricks with water to keep moist.
STEP 11
Una vez que el ladrillo ha empapado durante

20 - 30 minutos, se puede colocar debajo de
la losa de cocina para proteger el ladrillo del
sol. De vez en cuando rociar los ladrillos con
agua para mantener la humedad.
STEP 12
Cut 10 Firebrick in half.
Cortar 10 ladrillos a la mitad.
Attach one chimney unit to the other by removing

the paper cover from the double-sided tape then
STEP 13
press one unit to the other. Remove the paper

cover from both tape squares on bottom.
Adjuntar una unidad chimenea a la otra mediante

la eliminación de la cubierta de papel de la cinta
de doble cara y presione una unidad a la otra.
Quite la cubierta del papel de ambos cuadrados
de cinta en la parte inferior.
CENTER and ATTACH the foam chimney 4.5”

STEP 14
(½ firebrick) from the front of the oven.
CENTRAR y ACOMODAR la chimenea de

hielo seco 4.5” (1/2 ladrillo) de la parte
de entrente del horno.
Starting from the REAR, apply about 3/8” of the
HIGH-TEMPERATURE MORTAR to the bottom of
STEP 15
a ½ firebrick. Place the brick FIRMLY against the
foam. DO NOT MORTAR TO THE FOAM!!
Empezando por la parte DE ATRAS y usando

3/8” del CEMENTO DE ALTA TEMPERATURA,
acomodar el primer ladrillo FIRMEMENTE contra
el molde de hielo seco.
NO PEGAR EL LADRLLO AL MOLDE!!
Complete bottom layer, ending

STEP 16
with the 9” firebrick.
Terminar la capa de abajo con un ladrillo de 9”.
Stagger and mortar the next layer of firebrick.

STEP 17
See Diagram.
Acomodar y pegar cada hilera.

Ver el dibujo.
Continue the stager and mortar process for 5

STEP 18
rows.
DO NOT EXCEED 5 ROWS.
Continuar acomodando y pegando por 5 hileras.

NO EXCEDER 5 HILERAS.
Switch to the other side.

STEP 19
Cambiarse al otro lado.
Repeat the STAGGER and MORTAR
Process for 8 rows. When you reach
STEP 20
the chimney, continue to the next step.
Repetir el proceso de ACOMODAR y PEGAR

por 8 hileras. Cuando llegue a la chimenea,
continuar al siguiente paso.
Cut 2 firebricks as shown in the diagram.

STEP 21
Cortar 2 ladrillos como se ve en el dibujo.
Mortar the 2 “L” shaped firebricks in FRONT of

STEP 22
the foam chimney mold. (Do not apply mortar in

the gap between the foam chimney and firebrick).
Mortero las 2 "L" en forma de ladrillos refractarios

en frente de la chimenea del molde de espuma.
(No aplicar el mortero en el hueco entre la
chimenea de espuma y ladrillos refractarios).
Move to the BACK of the oven.

STEP 23
Ir a la parte DE ATRAS del horno.
On the next two steps, you will be mortaring

STEP 24
the firebrick on the back wall, KEEP YOUR

MORTAR JOINTS AS THIN AS POSSIBLE!
En los dos pasos siguientes, se le morteros
el ladrillo refractario en la pared trasera,
MANTENGA SUS JUNTAS DE MORTERO
LO MÁS FINA POSIBLE!
Starting from the center and working outwards,
MORTAR THE BOTTOM AND SIDES of each
firebrick. Trim the firebrick on each side to size.
STEP 25
See Diagram.
Comenzando por el centro y trabajando hacia el
exterior, MORTEROS EL FONDO Y LADOS de
cada ladrillo refractario. Recorte el ladrillo
refractario en cada lado al tamaño.
Vea el diagrama.
STAGGER and MORTAR to the top of the oven.

IMPORTANT! Make sure you mortar the firebrick
from the CENTER to the SIDES. This will keep
STEP 26
the outer bricks uniform when you make your cuts.
ACOMODAR y PEGAR hacia la parte de arriba

del horno.
IMPORTANTE! Asegurarse de pegar los ladrillos
del CENTRO HACIA LOS LADOS. Esto mantendra
los ladrillos uniformes al hacer los cortes.
Move to the FRONT LEFT or RIGHT of the oven.

STEP 27
Moverse a la DERECHA O IZQUIERDA de la

parte de enfrente del horno.
Surround the foam chimney guide with

STEP 28
4 firebricks that are cut to shape (as shown).
Rodean la guía chimenea espuma con

4 ladrillos refractarios que se cortan
para dar forma (como se muestra).
If you are attaching the 6” DuraTech Exhaust Kit to your oven, you will need to trim the top layer of
firebrick to the dimensions shown below so the 6” DuraTech Anchor Plate can fit snugly into place.
DURATECH
Trim 4 firebricks to the dimensions

STEP A
shown in the diagram.
Recorte 4 ladrillos refractarios a las

dimensiones indicadas en el diagrama.
Mortar the 4 firebricks into place with

DURATECH
the trimmed section INSIDE and FACING

STEP B
THE CENTER. See Diagram.
Mortero de los 4 ladrillos de fuego en el

lugar con la sección recortada INSIDE y
mirando hacia el centro. Vea el diagrama.
Build the chimney 3 layers high.

STEP 29
ALLOW THE OVEN 24 HOURS TO DRY!
Construir la chimenea 3 capas altas.
DEJE QUE EL HORNO 24 HORAS PARA SECA!
Starting 1” behind the front of the unit, wrap

the entire oven (including the back) with the
ceramic fiber blanket. MAKE SURE YOUR
STEP 30
GLOVES, RESPIRATOR AND EYE

PROTECTION ARE ON!
A partir del 1 "detrás de la parte delantera de
la unidad, envolver todo el horno (incluyendo
la parte de atrás) con la manta de fibra cerámica.
ASEGÚRESE DE QUE SU GUANTES,
RESPIRADOR Y PROTECCIÓN DE LOS
OJOS ESTÁN EN!
CLOSE-UP
Start / End the first layer 1” BEHIND the firebrick.
Inicio / Fin de la primera capa de 1" tras

el ladrillo refractario.
Wrap the blanket all the way around the base

of the oven. Cut the blanket 1” behind the front
STEP 31
of the oven with scissors or a utility knife.
Envuelva la manta todo el camino alrededor

de la base del horno. Corte la manta 1"
detrás de la parte frontal del horno
con unas tijeras o un cuchillo.
Cut the two back corners of the blanket about

2/3 down from the top. Fold the blanket on
either side of the oven onto the oven.
STEP 32
Corte las dos esquinas traseras de la manta

de aproximadamente 2/3 hacia abajo desde
la parte superior. Doble la manta en cualquiera
de los lados del horno en el horno.
Trim the corners so the blanket is uniform in size

and shape. DO NOT DISCARD THE CORNERS.
STEP 33
Recortar las esquinas por lo que la

manta es uniforme en tamaño y forma.
NO TIRE LAS ESQUINAS.
Lay a single piece of blanket on the
top of the oven. Trim to fit snugly.
STEP 34
Coloque un pedazo de manta en la

Parte superior del horno. Recorte para
que encaje perfectamente.
Begin your second layer of blanket at the back of

the oven and roll it over the first layer of blanket.
STEP 35
Cut even with the base then repeat at the front of

the oven. The back only needs 1 layer of blanket.
Comience su segunda capa de manta en la parte
posterior del horno y páselo por la primera capa
de la manta. Cortar incluso con la base y luego
repetir en la parte delantera del horno. La parte
trasera sólo tiene 1 capa de manta.
You can apply a 3rd & 4th layer of ceramic

fiber blanket if you choose to do so but you
STEP 36
will need an additional box of insulation.
Se puede aplicar una tercera y cuarta

capa de manta de fibra cerámica si
decide hacerlo, pero usted necesitará
una caja del aislamiento.
Starting from the front, roll the metal lathe

(chicken wire) around the entire oven. Keep the
lathe FIRM (not too tight.. not too loose). Overlap
STEP 37
the lathe and tie both together with rebar wire.

Trim the lathe about 2” from the overlap.
A partir de la parte delantera, rueda del torno de
metal (tela metálica) alrededor de todo el horno.
Mantenga el FIRM torno (no demasiado apretado
.. no demasiado suelto). Superposición del torno y
atar los dos juntos con alambre corrugado.
Recorte el torno cerca de 2 "de la superposición.
Simply FOLD THE LATHE CORNERS over by
pressing the lathe against the blanket (you may
STEP 38
need to tie down). Then attach the top layer of

lathe and tie into place with rebar wire.
Simplemente DOBLA LAS ESQUINAS TORNO

pulsando sobre el torno en contra de la manta
(puede que tenga que atar). A continuación,
coloque la capa superior de torno y corbata en su
lugar con alambre corrugado.
Starting from the bottom, apply a single ½” thick

layer of stucco (or mortar mix). The goal here is
to bury the lathe with the mix, but don’t make this
layer too thick! Some lathe WILL stick out and
STEP 39
show. We’ll fix that in Step 41.

ALLOW THE STUCCO 24 HOURS TO DRY!
A partir de la parte inferior, se aplica una sola capa
de estuco (o mezcla de mortero) alrededor de 1/2
"de espesor. El objetivo aquí es enterrar el torno con
la mezcla, pero no hacen esta capa demasiado
gruesa! Algunos Torno se proyectará hacia fuera y /
o mostrar. Vamos a arreglar esto en el Paso 41.
PERMITEN LAS ESTUCO 24 HORAS PARA SECAR!
Once the stucco is rock hard, trim the excess

wire mesh as close to the stucco as possible.
STEP 40
Be careful not to break or fracture the stucco.

It looks dry, but it is still curing.
Una vez que el estuco es el rock duro,
recorte el exceso de malla de alambre tan
cerca del estuco como sea posible. Tenga
cuidado de no romper o fracturar el estuco.
Se ve seca, pero todavía es curado.
Press any lathe that is showing firmly against the

stucco shell and apply a second ½” coat of mix.
Use a damp construction sponge to smooth the
outer shell to a factory smooth finish. Allow this
STEP 41
second layer 3-4 days to dry / cure before

removing the foam.
Pulse cualquier torno que está mostrando firmeza
contra la carcasa estuco y aplicar una segunda ½
"escudo de mezcla. Use una esponja húmeda
para la construcción suavizar la cáscara externa
de un acabado liso fábrica. Permitir que esta
segunda capa de 3-4 días para secar / curar
antes de retirar la espuma.
- REMOVE FOAM FORM-
DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT BURNING
WARNING!
THE FOAM FORM OR USING HAZARDOUS

CHEMICALS TO REMOVE THE FOAM!
DOING SO WILL DESTORY YOUR OVEN!
- RETIRE LA ESPUMA FORM -

INCLUSO NO PIENSE EN QUEMA DEL
FORMULARIO DE ESPUMA O USO DE
PRODUCTOS QUÍMICOS PELIGROSOS
PARA RETIRAR LA ESPUMA! HACERLO!
HEADS UP!
Resist the temptation to fill the inside ridges with

high-temp mortar. IT WILL NOT ADHERE AND
WILL EVENTUALLY FALL OUT!
Resista la tentación de llenar los bordes en el interior

con mortero de alta temperatura. NO SE RESPETAN
Y TARDE O TEMPRANO CAERÁ FUERA!
YOUR CITY &/OR STATE MAY REQUIRE A

DURATECH
SPARK ARRESTOR ON THE OVEN. CHECK

YOUR LOCAL LAWS TO SEE IF REQUIRED.
DuraTech Kits are available on our website.
LA CIUDAD Y / O ESTADO PUEDE REQUERIR
A CHISPAS EN EL HORNO. REVISE SUS
LEYES LOCALES PARA VER SI ES
NECESARIO.
Kits disponibles en nuestro sitio web Duratech.
Apply heat resistant adhesive on the bottom of the

anchor plate. Apply liberally to ensure minimal
STEP 42
heat loss. Our DuraTech kits come with a 10oz

tube of heat resistant silicone adhesive.
Aplicar el adhesivo resistente al calor sobre la parte

inferior de la placa de anclaje. Aplicar generosamente
para asegurar la pérdida de calor mínima. Nuestros
kits DuraTech vienen con un tubo de 10 oz de
adhesivo de silicona resistente al calor.
Center the anchor plate vertically / horizontally
STEP 43
and press firmly against the firebrick.
Centre la placa de anclaje vertical / horizontal y

presione firmemente contra el ladrillo refractario.
Place the chimney cap on the anchor

plate and finish.
ALLOW 5 DAYS TO AIR DRY!!

STEP 44
Coloque el casquillo de la chimenea en el anclaje

plato y acabado.
PERMITEN 5 DÍAS SECAR AL AIRE!!
- FINISHING THE OVEN & CLOSING OFF THE FRONT -
Now that your Stucco (or Mortar) shell is dry and rock solid, you can apply almost ANY type of veneer to
the outside of your oven. Most masonry supplies carry a plethora of veneer finishes – from Thin Brick
(1/2” thick face brick) to multi-color cultured stone to standard river rock, so be sure to stop by and look at
their selection as you design the oven finish. This is where the true artist in you gets to come out, so
make sure you choose a veneer that matches your unique style and personality!
While we don’t know the exact type of veneer you are going to use, we do know how much you need to
purchase. Listed below is the Materials List to finish the oven - WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU TAKE
THESE PRINTED DIRECTIONS TO YOUR LOCAL MASONRY SUPPLY and they can show you their
veneer selection and give you first-hand advice and knowledge on the veneer you choose.
Once you have chosen your finish, simply attach the finish to the oven shell with regular, everyday mortar!
You don’t need to use high-temp mortar since the Ceramic Fiber Blanket prevents the outside of the oven
from getting hot. In the following steps, we show you how to apply Thin Brick to the outside of the oven.
We also show you how to close off 40% off the front of the oven to retain even more heat. This step is
optional as many people prefer to keep their ovens open. PLEASE NOTE: If you do chose to close off
the front of your oven, be sure to remove the BrickWood Ovens foam form first!
Materials Need for Exterior Veneer Finish (these numbers include the 8% overage recommendation)
40sf of Veneer 2 - 60lb Bags of Mortar Mix
Sketch out how you want your finished oven to

look. For this example, we are sketching out an
oven that is finished with Thin Brick and has the
STEP A
front of the oven closed off 40%.
Esbozar cómo quiere que su horno de

acabado para mirar. Para este ejemplo,
estamos esbozar un horno que está
terminado con ladrillo delgado y tiene la
parte delantera del horno cerrado 40%.
Make guide lines with your level and a Sharpie

(or pencil). This will keep your veneer lines
straight and parallel with the oven.
STEP B
Asegúrese que las líneas de guía con su nivel y

un Sharpie (o un lápiz). Esto mantendrá sus
líneas de chapa recta y paralela con el horno.
Mortar the veneer to the back of the oven.
Trim the veneer on either side so the edges
are level with the body of the oven.
STEP C
Mortero de la chapa a la parte posterior del horno.

Recortar la chapa a ambos lados para que los
Bordes son de nivel con el cuerpo del horno.
Starting from the bottom, attach the veneer to

the sides of the oven – keep your eyes on the
guide lines and keep the veneer level!
STEP D
A partir de la parte inferior, coloque la chapa de

las paredes del horno - a mantener sus ojos en
las líneas de guía y mantener el nivel de chapa!
Optional Enclosure – NOT ON MATERIALS LIST.

You can close off 40% of the face of the oven with
brick to retain heat. Mortar the brick VERTICALLY
STEP E
as to allow room for the optional door (6” Depth).
Opcional Enclosure - NO EN LA LISTA DE

MATERIALES. Usted puede cerrar 40% de la
cara del horno con ladrillo para retener el calor.
Mortero el ladrillo verticalmente como para dejar
espacio para la puerta opcional (6" Profundidad).
You can close-off the oven to a MAXIMUM of

OPEN ZONE
WIDTH x HEIGHT OPEN ZONE WINDOW

240in2 (Open Zone: 240in2 – 400in2). If your ANCHO x ALTO VENTANA DE ZONA SEGURA
desired WIDTH x HEIGHT is in that Open Zone
window, then you are Golden! 240in – 400in
2 2
Puede cerrar el horno a un MÁXIMO de 240in2

(Zona Segura: 240in2 - 400in2). Si la ALTURA 0in – 239in
2 2
DESEADA x ANCHO se encuentra en la ventana

Zona segura, entonces usted es de oro! (EXAMPLE: 15” X 17” = 255in ) 2
Center a piece of 2” x 2” x 24” Angle Iron
over the opening and finish the front of
STEP F
the oven enclosure.
Centro de una pieza de 2" x 2" x 24" Iron

ángulo sobre la abertura y terminar la parte
delantera del el recinto de horno.
Apply the veneer onto the chimney.

If possible apply veneer OVER the
STEP G
bottom of the anchor plate.
Aplicar el barniz sobre la chimenea.

Si es posible aplicar chapa sobre la
parte inferior de la placa de anclaje.
Let the exterior of the oven dry for 3-4 days.

Use this time to apply a finish to your base
(unless gray block is your thing).
STEP H
Deje que el exterior del horno seco durante 3-4

días. Aproveche este tiempo para aplicar un
acabado a la base (a menos feo bloque gris es lo suyo)
That’s it! You’re Done!

Call your neighbors and tell them how awesome
TA-DA!!!
you are! Also, don’t forget to go to our website

and order your cooking tools (peels, doors, etc..)
Eso es todo! ¡Ya está!

Llame a sus vecinos y decirles lo maravilloso que
eres! Además, no te olvides de ir a nuestro sitio
web y pedir sus herramientas de cocina
(cáscaras, las puertas, etc.)
Once the BrickWood Ovens foam mold has been removed and the oven has had time to dry for
3-4 days, you can begin the firing process. This is the most important of all directions!
The purpose of a slow cure is to ensure that all moisture in the firebrick and the mortar exits the
oven slowly and evenly. Drying the oven too quickly can result in moisture turning into steam
and steam can possibly crack your awesome new oven!!
DAY 1 DAY 2 DAY 3

Place 1 standard size firelog on Place 2 standard size firelogs on top Place 3 standard size firelogs on top
top of dry kindling. Use paper to of dry kindling. Use paper to ignite - of dry kindling. Use paper to ignite -
ignite - not chemical igniters. not chemical igniters. not chemical igniters.
DAY 4 DAY 5 DAY 6
Place 3 standard size firelogs on top of Place 3 standard size firelogs on top of Place 3 standard size firelogs on top of
dry kindling. dry kindling. dry kindling.
Burn down to embers. Spread embers. Burn down to embers. Spread embers. Burn down to embers. Spread embers.
Place 1 firelog on the embers to ignite. Place 2 firelogs on the embers to ignite. Place 3 firelogs on the embers to ignite.
© 2013embers
Spread BrickWood Ovens
around / US &surface
cooking International Patents
SpreadPending
embers around cooking surface. Mattone Barile
Spread Grande
embers (Insulated)
around 24
cooking|surface.
Properly heating the cooking surface is very important when using a brick oven. Simply building a fire
in the center of the oven and pushing the embers to the rear of the oven will result in uneven cooking.
When heating the oven, start in the front / center and spread the fire around the cooking surface for
60+ minutes. This will heat the entire cooking surface and will bring the oven to the perfect cooking
temperature. Word to the wise - hold off on that pizza party until you have mastered your oven!
15 – 20 Minutes 20 - 45 Minutes 45 - 60 Minutes 60+ Minutes
Only use dry, hard wood Split into small pieces Good size - 18” x 5” x 5” Spilt again for kindling
Stack kindling front / middle Ignite Spread embers around Add 3 - 4 pieces of firewood
Good burn - Feel the heat! Spread embers around Add more firewood Blazing Inferno!!
Spread
© 2013embers - Set
BrickWood 15 min
Ovens Push embers
/ US & International Patents to back
Pending Brush cooking surface TIME TO
Mattone Barile Grande COOK!!!|
(Insulated) 25

Mattone Barile Grande - Oven - BrickWood Ovens

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Installation Instructions &

Materials List for the –

Materials Shopping List Tools Needed

1 Mattone Barile Grande Foam Form Miter Saw Masonry Blade

1 (OPTIONAL) Barile Series Oven Door

High-Temperature Mortar Mix

Barile Series Door DuraTech 6” American Metalcraft

- 47” x 60” INSULATED HEARTH SLAB & BASE MEASUREMENTS -

Painted Stucco Shell Thin Brick Veneer on Stucco Shell

- Basic Types of Masonry Finishes & Veneers –

STUCCO BRICK VENEER STONE VENEER NATURAL STONE

brick on the front half of your base..

Steps 2 - 29 require a 3:1:1:1 mortar mixture.

3 Gallons - Silica Sand

STARTING ON THE BACK OF THE SLAB –

ALL BRICKS VERTICALLY ON THEIR SIDES!!

ARRANQUE EN LA PARTE POSTERIOR DE LA

Marque el centro de la losa FRONT y mortero

Mortar the bricks on the hearth slab from

Mortero de los ladrillos en la losa de

Cover the Insulated hearth slab with about

Cubrir la base con capa de aislamiento de 1” - 2”

Place the FIREBRICK in a HERRINGBONE

slide smoothly across uneven firebrick when laid at this angle.

Coloque el ladrillo refractario en un archive

Fill in the remaining voids with firebrick.

Rellene los huecos restantes con ladrillo

Remover el Mattone Barile Grande form de su

Carefully slide the legs out of the form body and

Deslice con cuidado las piernas fuera del cuerpo

Position the BACK of the oven 10.5”

from the edge of the rear firebrick.

Acomodar la parte DE ATRAS del horno

YOU MUST SOAK ALL FIREBRICK FOR

Una vez que el ladrillo ha empapado durante

Cut 10 Firebrick in half.

Cortar 10 ladrillos a la mitad.

Attach one chimney unit to the other by removing

press one unit to the other. Remove the paper

Adjuntar una unidad chimenea a la otra mediante

CENTER and ATTACH the foam chimney 4.5”

(½ firebrick) from the front of the oven.

CENTRAR y ACOMODAR la chimenea de

Empezando por la parte DE ATRAS y usando

Complete bottom layer, ending

with the 9” firebrick.

Terminar la capa de abajo con un ladrillo de 9”.

Stagger and mortar the next layer of firebrick.

Acomodar y pegar cada hilera.

Continue the stager and mortar process for 5

Continuar acomodando y pegando por 5 hileras.

Switch to the other side.

Cambiarse al otro lado.

the chimney, continue to the next step.

Repetir el proceso de ACOMODAR y PEGAR

Cut 2 firebricks as shown in the diagram.

Cortar 2 ladrillos como se ve en el dibujo.

Mortar the 2 “L” shaped firebricks in FRONT of

the foam chimney mold. (Do not apply mortar in

Mortero las 2 "L" en forma de ladrillos refractarios